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Greek Island 8 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Greek Islands Northeastern Evia & the Aegean Islands Ionian Sporades (p372) Islands (p437) (p463) Athens & Around (p60) Cyclades Saronic (p153) Gulf Islands (p126) Dodecanese (p299) Crete (p248) THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Korina Miller, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Stamatios Clark, Victoria Kyriakopoulos, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Richard Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to ATHENS & Syros . 163 the Greek Islands . 4 AROUND . 60 Mykonos . 169 Greek Islands Map . .6 Athens . 62 Paros . .177 Greek Islands’ Top 16 . .8 Athens Ports . 120 Antiparos . 184 Need to Know . .16 Around Athens . 123 Naxos . 186 First Time Greek Islands . .18 Little Cyclades . 196 SARONIC GULF Donousa . 200 If You Like… . 20 ISLANDS . 126 Amorgos . 201 Month by Month . 22 Aegina . 128 Ios . 206 Itineraries . 24 Angistri . 132 Santorini (Thira) . .211 Island Hopping . 30 Poros . 133 Anafi . 223 Hydra . 135 Cruising . 38 Sikinos . 225 Spetses . .141 Eat Like a Local . 42 Folegandros . 226 Delos . 230 Outdoor Activities . 47. CYCLADES . 153 Milos . 232 Travel with Children . 52 Andros . 156 Kimolos . 236 Regions at a Glance . 55 Tinos . 159 Sifnos . 236 MURAT TANER/GETTY MURAT IMAGES © STUART BLACK/GETTY IMAGES © MYKONOS P169 CAMILLA SJODIN/GETTY IMAGES © GREEK CUISINE P533 SAMOS P383 Contents UNDERSTAND Serifos . 240 Inousses . 399 Greek Islands Today . 506 Kythnos . 243 Psara . .400 History . 508 Kea (Tzia) . 245 Lesvos (Mytilini) . 402 The Islanders . 520 Limnos . 413 Architecture . 524 Agios Efstratios . 417 CRETE . 248 The Arts . 528 Samothraki . 417 Iraklio . 252 Thasos . 422 Greek Cuisine . 533 Zaros . 264 Nature & Wildlife . 537 Matala . 264 Rethymno . 266 EVIA & THE SPORADES . 437 Anogia . 269 SURVIVAL Plakias . 270 Evia . 439 GUIDE Hania . 273 The Sporades . .444 Southwest Coast . 280 Directory A–Z . 542 Agios Nikolaos . 287 IONIAN ISLANDS . 463 Transport . 550 Corfu . 465 Language . 557 DODECANESE . 299 Paxi . 477 Antipaxi . 479 Index . 566 Rhodes . 301 Lefkada . .480 Map Legend . 574 Halki . 317 Meganisi . 484 Karpathos . 319 Kefallonia . 485 Kasos . 324 Ithaki . 492 Kastellorizo (Megisti) . 326 Zakynthos . 495 Symi . 328 Kythira . 499 Tilos . 332 Nisyros . 335 Antikythira . 504 Kos . 339 Astypalea . 347 Kalymnos . 351 Leros . 356 Patmos . 361 Lipsi . 366 SPECIAL FEATURES Arki & Marathi . 369 596 597 1 2 3 Agathonisi . 370 3D Acropolis The Feast TASTYART LTD ROB WHITE/GETTY IMAGES © BRUCE MCINTOSH/GETTY IMAGES © LAURI PATTERSON/GETTY IMAGES © You might wonder what conquests and invasions have to do with food; in the case of Greece, everything. The Turkish rule left tantalising spices and syrupy sweets while Italians imparted thick- Illustration . 68 sauced pastas and thin crusted pizzas. The Greeks have taken all of this into their kitchens and added their own flavourful slant. Meanwhile, they keep whipping up traditional dishes with unique, local ingredients – everywhere you go offers 4 5 6 something new to try. MAXIMILIAN STOCK LTD/GETTY IMAGES © ANJELIKA GRETSKAIA/ALAMY © COLINSPICS/ALAMY © 1. Mousakas Greece’s signature dish involves layers of baked eggplant, Natural Havens . 145 minced meat and potatoes, topped with cheese and béchamel sauce. 2. Yemista NORTHEASTERN Hollowed-out tomatoes and peppers are stuff ed with herbed rice and baked with cheese to create this delicious summer favourite. 3. Souvlaki Although it may arrive at your table in various guises, souvlaki is essentially grilled meat wrapped in a pitta or served on a skewer, kebab-style. 4. Dolmadhes Soft parcels of spiced rice, often meat free, are wrapped in vine 7 8 9 AEGEAN ISLANDS . 372 3D Palace of Knossos leaves. LUZIA ELLERT/GETTY IMAGES © CLIVE STREETER/GETTY IMAGES © STUART FORSTER/ALAMY © 5. Revythokeftedhes These fritters made from chickpeas and fresh herbs are often served with cheese. 6. Seafood Saganaki Mussels or prawns served with a rich tomato sauce and local Illustration . 260 cheese. 7. Stifadho This sweet stew of rabbit or beef is cooked with tomato and Ikaria & the onions. 8. Pastitsio A thick pasta and meat bake that is often eaten during the winter. 9. Psarosoupa This soup is made with local sh, such as red mullet or whitebait, and simmered with vegetables and spices. 10 11 12 KIVOART/GETTY IMAGES © LISA ROMEREIN/GETTY IMAGES © ALAN BENSON/GETTY IMAGES © 10. Horiatiki Fourni Islands . 374 Cultural Legacy . 429 The ubiquitous Greek salad includes a bright mix of tomatoes, cucumber, onions, feta, olives and often local horta (wild greens). 11. Lokoumadhes These ball-shaped doughnuts are served with honey and cinnamon. 12. Ghlika Kutalyu Also known as ‘spoon sweets’, these syrupy desserts are often Samos . 383 served over yoghurt or ice-cream. Chios . 392 Pusti Ðeravica v Mt Lisac Lipsi R R ora R #\ Lisac R M Mt Vitosha Surdup R RMj Škeljzen SERBIA Bay ofwR Mt Lovcen m °E R Kotor Mj e i KOSOVO 18 Jezerces©LonelyMaja Planetr Publications Pty Ltd wLake ALBANIA e Paces D Ev w i ros Shkodra Lake Lake e l 42° Fierza B N Greek42°N 42°N IslandsKoman Mt Vodno FORMER YUGOSLAV Exohi REPUBLIC Promahonas #\ OF MACEDONIA #\ Adriatic TIRANA #_ Sea Drama #\ Doïrani #] °E #\ 41°N Evzoni #] Serres 19 Kilkis #\ Niki #\ MACEDONIA Edessa Giannitsa Florina #\ #\ #\ ALBANIA Kotas #\ Naoussa Thessaloniki #\ #\ #\ #] Kristallopigi #\ Kalamaria Veria #\ Alexandria Corfu Town Kastoria#\ #] French, Italian and Ptolemaida Halkidiki Kozani #\ British influences (p468) Katerini #\ Lake #\ Gulf of Mertziani Aliakmonas Litohoro Kassandra 40°N #\ #\ Konitsa R Kakavia Mt Olympus Kassandra ITALY #\ Metsovo Peninsula #\ Corfu Tirnavos #\ Sagiada Ioannina #\ Corfu Town #\ #\ Kalambaka #\ #\ Trikala Larissa (Kerkyra) #\ #\ EPIROS Igoumenitsa THESSALY Volos Pelion Karditsa #\ #\ Peninsula #\ Parga Alonnisos #\ Arta GREECE Skiathos 39°N Ionian Skopelos Lake Sporades Sea #\ Karpenisi Lamia Agios Preveza #\ Kremasta #\ Konstantinos Lefkada Town #\ STEREA R #\ Mytikas #\ ELLADA Mt Iti Lefkada #] Agrinio Evia Athens #\ RMt Parnassos Ancient and contemporary Messolongi Nafpaktos Thiva Marathon #\ Ithaki #\ #\ Delphi come together (p60) (Thebes)#\ #\ Sami #\ Gulf of Patra #\ Mt Parintha R #\ Corinth #\ Argostoli Kefallonia Diakofto Perahora ATHENS 38°N #\ #_ #\ IONIAN ISLANDS Loutraki #\ #\ Rafina #\ #] Piraeus Agios Nikolaos #\ Kyllini ATTICA #\ Amaliada Corinth Zakynthos Town #\ #\ Lavrio Mycenae #\ Epidavros Aegina #\ #\ #\ Saronic Zakynthos Pyrgos Olympia #\Nafplio Gulf #] Tripoli Poros Megalopoli #\ Hydra One of Europe's most Kyparissia #\ PELOPONNESE Spetses Hydra beautiful island towns (p136) Sparta 37°N Kalamata #\ #\ #\ #\ Geraki Pylos #\ Mystras Gythio #\ #\ Monemvasia Areopoli #\ #\ Neapoli Hania Lakonian Gulf Labyrinth of Venetian Myrtoön MEDITERRANEAN Sea architecture (p273) SEA 36°N Kythira Antikythira Samaria Gorge Europe’s longest #\ gorge (p282) #\ Paleohora 23 35°N E E E E ° ° ° ° E 1 2° 0 19 2 2 2 3 3 1 2 0° ° 9° E °E E E 8 2 42°N 42°N Black Sea 42°N (Karadenız) (Maritsa) 0 100km e# 0 50miles #\ Ormenio #\ #\ Edirne Kastanies #\ Orestiada BULGARIA ELEVATION Didymotiho #\ Skyros 4000m İstanbul 3000m Eclectic history and #] Xanthi THRACE 2000m #\ artistic delight (p457) 29 #\ Komotini 1000m ° E 500m 28 #\ Sea of #\ Kipi 0 Kavala #\ ° E Marmara Alexandroupoli 26°E Thasos Thracian Sea The Dardanelles Samothraki Gallipoli Peninsula Lesvos Imvros Quiet beaches and cool (Gökçeada) pine forests (p402) 40°N 4 Limnos Myrina #\ NORTHE4ASTERN Santorini AEGEAN ISLANDS TURKEY Sophistication and spectacular landscapes (p211) Agios Efstratios Lesvos Mytilini #\ 39°N Town Patmos Skyros Join the Easter festivities (p361) Psara Chios Aegean #\ Chios Town #\ Çeşme İzmir Sea #\ Nea Styra Olymbos #\ Colourful village clinging to 38°N #\Karystos a mountain edge (p323) Kuşadası #\ Gavrio #\ Andros Samos Kea Tinos Ikaria Fourni Islands Rhodes Old Town Mykonos Magical walled Syros Patmos 4 #\ medieval town (p304) Kythnos Delos Milas CYCLADES Leros Hora (Naxos) #\ Serifos #\ °N Bodrum Antiparos Donousa 37 Kalymnos 4 Naxos #\ Marmaris Sifnos Paros Kos Town #\ Datça Peninsula Little Kos #\ Kimolos Cyclades Amorgos Datça Sikinos Symi Ios Astypalea Milos Nisyros #\ Folegandros Rhodes Tilos Town Anafi Kastellorizo Aegean Karpathian Halki Rhodes 4(Megisti) Sea Sea Santorini #\ 36°N (Thira) Lindos #\ Kattavia MEDITERRANEAN Preveli Beach DODECANESE SEA Watched over by a picturesque Saria monastery (p272) Olymbos #\ Sea of Karpathos Crete #\Pigadia #\ Hania Crete Kasos Knossos Rethymno Iraklio #\ #\ Restored Minoan Plakias Ü#Moni ä# Knossos #\ Sitia palaces (p259) #\ #\ 24 Arkadiou #\ Agios Agia #\ °E 26Ierapetra 28 2 Nikolaos 2 Galini 9 #\ 7° ° ° ° E Matala E E E Gavdos ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd On the Road Northeastern Evia & the Aegean Islands Ionian Sporades (p372) Islands (p437) (p463) Athens & Around (p60) Cyclades Saronic (p153) Gulf Islands (p126) Dodecanese (p299) Crete (p248) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24 DENNIS JOHNSON/GETTYK. IMAGES © Plan Your Trip Itineraries ATHENS Rafina É #_ •# É f# AE GEAN É SE A É •# Mykonos •# Delos É CYCLADES f# #– •# Paros •# Naxos MY RT OÖN SE A É f# É •# SE AO FC RETE Santorini (Thira) AE GEAN SE A 10 DAYS Athens & the Cyclades Acropolis, try to catch a play at the ancient If you’re short on time, this itinerary Odeon of Herodes Atticus and wander packs a punch in just ten days. Take through the Acropolis Museum. Take in in the must-see attractions in Athens, Athens’ lively markets, contemporary art visit a few of the popular, bustling scene and brilliant nightlife. From here islands, and chill out in quieter
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