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Greek Island 8

Greek Island 8

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Greek

Northeastern Evia & the Ionian (p372) Islands (p437) (p463) & Around (p60) Saronic (p153) Gulf Islands (p126) (p299)

Crete (p248)

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Korina Miller, Alexis Averbuck, Stamatios Clark, Victoria Kyriakopoulos, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Richard Waters PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to ATHENS & ...... 163 the Greek Islands. . . . . 4 AROUND ...... 60 ...... 169 Greek Islands Map...... 6 Athens...... 62 ...... 177 Greek Islands’ Top 16. . . . .8 Athens Ports...... 120 ...... 184 Need to Know...... 16 Around Athens. . . . . 123 ...... 186 First Time Greek Islands. . .18 Little Cyclades. . . . . 196 ...... 200 If You Like…...... 20 ISLANDS...... 126 ...... 201 Month by Month. . . . . 22 ...... 128 ...... 206 Itineraries ...... 24 Angistri ...... 132 ()...... 211 Island Hopping...... 30 ...... 133 ...... 223 ...... 135 Cruising...... 38 ...... 225 ...... 141 Eat Like a Local . . . . . 42 ...... 226 ...... 230 Outdoor Activities. . . . 47. CYCLADES...... 153 ...... 232 Travel with Children. . . . 52 ...... 156 ...... 236 Regions at a Glance. . . . 55 ...... 159 ...... 236 MURAT TANER/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES MURAT TANER/GETTY © IMAGES BLACK/GETTY STUART

MYKONOS P169 CAMILLA SJODIN/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES SJODIN/GETTY CAMILLA

GREEK CUISINE P533 P383 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Serifos...... 240 Inousses...... 399 Greek Islands Today. . . 506 ...... 243 ...... 400 History...... 508 (Tzia)...... 245 Lesvos (Mytilini). . . . . 402 The Islanders...... 520 Limnos...... 413 Architecture ...... 524 . . . . . 417 ...... 248 The Arts...... 528 Samothraki...... 417 Iraklio...... 252 ...... 422 ...... 533 Zaros ...... 264 Nature & Wildlife. . . . 537 Matala ...... 264 ...... 266 EVIA & THE SPORADES. . . . . 437 Anogia ...... 269 SURVIVAL Plakias...... 270 Evia...... 439 GUIDE Hania ...... 273 The Sporades ...... 444 Southwest Coast . . . . . 280 Directory A–Z...... 542 . . . . . 287 . . . 463 Transport...... 550 ...... 465 Language...... 557 DODECANESE. . . . 299 ...... 477 Antipaxi...... 479 Index...... 566 ...... 301 ...... 480 Map Legend...... 574 ...... 317 ...... 484 ...... 319 Kefallonia...... 485 ...... 324 Ithaki ...... 492 (Megisti). . . 326 ...... 495 ...... 328 ...... 499 ...... 332 ...... 335 Antikythira ...... 504 ...... 339 Astypalea...... 347 ...... 351 ...... 356 ...... 361 Lipsi...... 366 SPECIAL FEATURES Arki & Marathi ...... 369

596 597 1 2 3 ...... 370 3D The Feast TASTYART LTD ROB WHITE/GETTY IMAGES © BRUCE MCINTOSH/GETTY IMAGES © LAURI PATTERSON/GETTY IMAGES © You might wonder what conquests and invasions have to do with food; in the case of , everything. The Turkish rule left tantalising and syrupy sweets while Italians imparted thick- Illustration...... 68 sauced pastas and thin crusted . The have taken all of this into their kitchens and added their own flavourful slant. Meanwhile, they keep whipping up traditional dishes with unique, local ingredients – everywhere you go offers 4 5 6

something new to try. MAXIMILIAN LTD/GETTY IMAGES © ANJELIKA GRETSKAIA/ALAMY © COLINSPICS/ALAMY ©

1. Mousakas Greece’s signature dish involves layers of baked , Natural Havens . . . . . 145 minced meat and potatoes, topped with cheese and béchamel sauce. 2. Yemista NORTHEASTERN Hollowed-out tomatoes and peppers are stuff ed with herbed and baked with cheese to create this delicious summer favourite. 3. Although it may arrive at your table in various guises, souvlaki is essentially grilled meat wrapped in a pitta or served on a skewer, kebab-style. 4. Dolmadhes Soft parcels of spiced rice, often meat free, are wrapped in vine 7 8 9 AEGEAN ISLANDS. . . 372 3D Palace of leaves. LUZIA ELLERT/GETTY IMAGES © CLIVE STREETER/GETTY IMAGES © STUART FORSTER/ALAMY © 5. Revythokeftedhes These fritters made from chickpeas and fresh herbs are often served with cheese. 6. Seafood or served with a rich sauce and local Illustration...... 260 cheese. 7. Stifadho This sweet of rabbit or beef is cooked with tomato and & the . 8. A thick pasta and meat bake that is often eaten during the winter. 9. This is made with local  sh, such as red mullet or whitebait, and simmered with and spices. 10 11 12 KIVOART/GETTY IMAGES © LISA ROMEREIN/GETTY IMAGES © ALAN BENSON/GETTY IMAGES © 10. Horiatiki Fourni Islands...... 374 Cultural Legacy. . . . . 429 The ubiquitous includes a bright mix of tomatoes, cucumber, onions, , and often local horta (wild greens). 11. Lokoumadhes These ball-shaped doughnuts are served with honey and cinnamon. 12. Ghlika Kutalyu Also known as ‘’, these syrupy desserts are often Samos ...... 383 served over yoghurt or ice-cream. ...... 392 Pusti Ðeravica v Mt Lisac Lipsi R R ora R #\ Lisac R M Mt Vitosha Surdup R RMj Škeljzen SERBIA

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FORMER YUGOSLAV Exohi Promahonas #\ OF #\ Adriatic TIRANA #_ Sea #\ Doïrani #] °E #\ 41°N Evzoni #] 19 #\ Niki #\ MACEDONIA Edessa #\ #\ #\ ALBANIA Kotas #\ Naoussa #\ #\ #\ #] Kristallopigi #\ #\ Corfu Town #\ #] French, Italian and Halkidiki #\ British influences (p468) #\ Lake #\ Gulf of Mertziani Aliakmonas Litohoro Kassandra 40°N #\ #\ R Mt Olympus Kassandra #\ Peninsula #\ Corfu Tirnavos #\ Sagiada #\ Corfu Town #\ #\ Kalambaka #\ #\ (Kerkyra) #\ #\ EPIROS #\ #\ Peninsula #\ #\ GREECE 39°N Ionian Lake Sporades Sea #\ Agios #\ Kremasta #\ Konstantinos Lefkada Town #\ STEREA R #\ Mytikas #\ ELLADA Mt Iti Lefkada #] Agrinio Evia Athens #\ RMt Parnassos Ancient and contemporary Messolongi Thiva Marathon #\ Ithaki #\ #\ come together (p60) (Thebes)#\ #\ Sami #\ Gulf of Patra #\ Mt Parintha R #\ #\ Argostoli Kefallonia Diakofto Perahora ATHENS 38°N #\ #_ #\ IONIAN ISLANDS Loutraki #\ #\ Rafina #\ #] Agios Nikolaos #\ Kyllini #\ Amaliada Corinth Zakynthos Town #\ #\ Lavrio Mycenae #\ Epidavros Aegina #\ #\ #\ Saronic Zakynthos Pyrgos Olympia #\ Gulf #] Poros Megalopoli #\ Hydra One of 's most Kyparissia #\ Spetses Hydra beautiful island towns (p136) 37°N #\ #\ #\ #\ Geraki #\

Gythio #\ #\ Areopoli #\ #\ Neapoli Hania Lakonian Gulf Labyrinth of Venetian Myrtoön architecture (p273) SEA 36°N Kythira Antikythira

Samaria Gorge Europe’s longest #\ gorge (p282) #\ Paleohora

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26°E Thasos The Samothraki Peninsula Lesvos Imvros Quiet beaches and cool (Gökçeada) pine forests (p402) 40°N 4 Limnos Myrina #\

NORTHE4ASTERN Santorini AEGEAN ISLANDS Sophistication and spectacular landscapes (p211) Agios Efstratios Lesvos Mytilini #\ 39°N Town Patmos Skyros Join the festivities (p361) Psara Chios Aegean #\ Chios Town #\ Çeşme İzmir Sea #\ Nea Styra Olymbos #\ Colourful village clinging to 38°N #\ a mountain edge (p323) Kuşadası #\ Gavrio #\ Andros Samos Kea Tinos Ikaria Fourni Islands Rhodes Old Town Mykonos Magical walled Syros Patmos 4 #\ medieval town (p304) Kythnos Delos Milas CYCLADES Leros Hora (Naxos) #\ #\ °N Antiparos Donousa 37 Kalymnos 4 Naxos #\ Marmaris Sifnos Paros Kos Town #\ Datça Peninsula Little Kos #\ Kimolos Cyclades Amorgos Datça Sikinos Symi Ios Astypalea Milos Nisyros #\ Folegandros Rhodes Tilos Town Anafi Kastellorizo Aegean Karpathian Halki Rhodes 4(Megisti) Sea Sea Santorini #\ 36°N (Thira) #\ MEDITERRANEAN Preveli Beach DODECANESE SEA Watched over by a picturesque Saria monastery (p272) Olymbos #\ Sea of Karpathos Crete #\Pigadia #\ Hania Crete Kasos Knossos Rethymno Iraklio #\ #\ Restored Minoan Plakias Ü#Moni ä# Knossos #\ palaces (p259) #\ #\

24 Arkadiou #\ Agios Agia #\

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On the Road

Northeastern Evia & the Aegean Islands Ionian Sporades (p372) Islands (p437) (p463) Athens & Around (p60) Cyclades Saronic (p153) Gulf Islands (p126) Dodecanese (p299)

Crete (p248) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24 DENNIS K. JOHNSON/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES K. JOHNSON/GETTY DENNIS

Plan Your Trip Itineraries

ATHENS Rafina É #_ •# É f# AE GEAN É SE A

É •# Mykonos •# Delos É CYCLADES f# #– •# Paros •# Naxos MY RT OÖN SE A

É

f# É

•# SE AO FC RETE Santorini (Thira)

AE GEAN SE A

10 DAYS Athens & the Cyclades

Acropolis, try to catch a play at the ancient If you’re short on time, this itinerary Odeon of Herodes Atticus and wander packs a punch in just ten days. Take through the Acropolis . Take in in the must-see attractions in Athens, Athens’ lively markets, contemporary art visit a few of the popular, bustling scene and brilliant nightlife. From here islands, and chill out in quieter havens head to the Cyclades, which pepper the sea where you can soak up that slow- south of the mainland. paced, island-life experience. Transport Catch a from Rafina to spend a day or two on chic , famous for between these islands and the Mykonos its colourful harbour, hopping bars and mainland is plentiful. beaches full of sun worshippers. From here take a day trip to the tiny sacred Begin your tour with a couple of days in island of Delos and explore its ancient , home to some of the world’s most Athens ruins. Hop back on a ferry and head to important ancient sites. Be sure to visit the Naxos, the greenest and most fertile of 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i e ar ner i es

Hora (p171), Mykonos the Cyclades. Visit the island’s hilltop, Your final destination is spectacular Venetian-walled old town and then rent a Santorini (Thira). The dramatic sheer car to explore its quaint smaller villages cliffs of its volcanic were created by and sugar-soft beaches. From here it’s a one of the largest eruptions in history; as quick ferry ride to Paros which has an the sun sinks into the sea, the reflections atmospheric, cobbled main town filled off these cliff faces are stunning. Join the with trendy boutiques and excellent din- throngs and enjoy the view with a cocktail ing. Head to the northern tip of the island in hand. Visit the island’s excellent winer- to visit the cool seaside village of Naousa ies, new brewery and its volcanic beaches, where you’ll find hip cafes and excellent along with the truly impressive Minoan seafood. site of Akrotiri. From here you can hop on a flight back to Athens. 26 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i e ar ner i es

#_ ATHENS AE GEAN SE A GREECE TURKEY Patmos •#

#– É É

É f# f# É

•# Kos

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•# f# É Nisyros •# Rhodes Town

DODECANESE É Rhodes

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SE AO FC RETE É Iraklio MaliÉ a Island •# •# •# Sitia Crete •#Vaï MEDITERRAN EA N Peza•# •# É •# •# •# Kato SE A Knossos •# •# Agios Golden Beach & Plateau Nikolaos Istron Bay 27 TOM PFEIFFER/VOLCANODISCOVERY/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PFEIFFER/VOLCANODISCOVERY/GETTY TOM 2 Crete & the WEEKS Dodecanese

With divine beaches, atmospheric towns TRIP YOUR PLAN and jaw-dropping sights, Crete is a full destination in itself. From the eastern side you can reach the neighbouring Dodecanese by ferry or on a short flight from Iraklio. The Dodecanese offer a wealth of diversity, and a speedy catamaran service that makes

island-hopping a joy. It i e ar ner Begin in Iraklio, visiting the excellent Ar- chaeological Museum and taking a day trip i

to the impressive Minoan ruins of Knossos. es En route see the surrounding Peza region, which is nestled in a landscape of shapely hills, sunbaked slopes and lush valleys. From Irak- lio, head east along the northern coast to the relaxed of Agios Nikolaos, which dishes out charm and a hip ambience in equal portions. Agios Nikolaos is a great base for exploring the surrounding region. Take in Golden Beach (Voulisma Beach) and Istron Bay for long stretches of sand. Take a short ferry ride across the Gulf of Mirabello to see the massive fortress on fascinating Spinalonga Island. Explore nearby Minoan ruins including Malia, a palace still filled with mysteries, and rent a bike to explore the tranquil villages of the fertile

ALBERTO COTO/GETTY IMAGES © COTO/GETTYIMAGES ALBERTO , lying snugly between moun- tain ranges and home to ’ birthplace. From Agios Nikolaos, continue east via Sitia to the white sand of , Europe’s only natural palm-forest beach. You can also travel south from here to Kato Zakros to hike through the dramatic Valley of the Dead. From Sitia, get settled on a 10-hour ferry ride to Rhodes. Spend a couple of days exploring Rhodes Town’s walled medieval Old Town and some of the surrounding beaches, fascinating Byzantine chapels and the white-sugar-cube village of Lindos. Catch one of the daily catama- rans to lush Nisyros to explore deep within its bubbling caldera and then carry on to Patmos to experience its artistic and religious vibe and to visit the cave where St John wrote the Book of Revelations. Backtrack to Kos to spend a final couple of days on gorgeous, sandy Kefa- los Bay and to sip coffee and cocktails in Kos Town’s lively squares. From Kos Town you can Top: Stefanos volcanic crater (p338), Nisyros catch onward flights to Athens. Bottom: Vaï beach (p294), Crete Masters (p306),Masters Rhodes Old Town RhodesTown Old Molyvos(p407),Lesvos Top: Top: Bottom: Palace of the Grandthe Bottom:Palaceof

IZZET KERIBAR/GETTY IMAGES © EFILIPPOU/GETTY IMAGES © , - - - , - - Rhodes Leros , birth , to stretch out out stretch to to enjoy its pictur its enjoy to , where you can hike hike can you where , . Symi Lesvos(Mytilini) Samos Athens to dine on the day’s catch at at catch day’s the on dine to AgiosEfstratios Run The Eastern Island Island Eastern The Limnos , where you can get lost in the labyrinth the in lost get can you where , , a great place for bird lovers and walkers, walkers, and lovers bird for place great a ,

The next stop is is stop next The From Rhodes, set sail for the remote-feeling remote-feeling the for sail set Rhodes, From

3 3 WEEKS overnight boat to to boat overnight on to secluded secluded to on an on jumping before beaches sand volcanic on hop to to hop Carry . seafood waterside Myrina’s hot springs, dense forests and soft beaches, is beaches, soft and forests dense springs, hot here From offerings. cultural its as diverse as Ypsilou with its glittering ancient manuscripts. manuscripts. ancient glittering its with Ypsilou gushing marshes, with landscape, Lesvos’ prisingly, it’s also home to a hopping nightlife. nightlife. hopping a to home also it’s prisingly, artgallery modern fantastic island’s the Visit Moni of monastery Byzantine hilltop the and place of the poet and producer of some some of producer and Sappho poet the of place sur Not . and oil finest Greece’s of ing mountain peaks. mountain ing Mesta and then head into the interior to hike hike to interior the into head then and Mesta tower of shade the under groves citrus through Chios of village southern the in alleyways stone of through lush forests to secluded waterfalls and and waterfalls secluded to forests lush through to head Samos, From beaches. idyllic on laze relaxed vibe and fascinating bunker museum museum bunker fascinating and vibe relaxed WWII. in starring role island’s the reveals that to north Continue only accessible on foot. Head north to to north Head foot. on accessible only ultra- architecture, Italian-inspired its with Tilos coves tiny and pathways cobbled ancient with Mihail Panormiti. Mihail time, take a day trip to to trip day a take time, Taxiarhou Moni ornate the and harbour esque and the crumbling fairytale castles on the north north the fairytale on crumbling castles the and have you If views. phenomenal their coast,with Town and soaking up the contemporary, atmos contemporary, the up soaking and Town Lindos of Acropolis the Visit nightlife. pheric Begin your journey with a few days on on days few a with journey your Begin Old medieval walled the through wandering extend their exploration from three weeks to to weeks three from their exploration extend months. three thankfully you won’t be in any hurry to leave hurry leave to be in any won’t thankfully you happily would hoppers island and many are regular but not always very frequent; frequent; very always but not regular are languid coasts, lush scenery, amazing sights amazing sights lush scenery, languid coasts, Scheduled beaches. and divine For intrepid travellers without a tight time without travellers intrepid For periphery offers eastern Greece’s schedule,

Itiner aries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 28 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i e ar ner i es

Limnos •#

GREECE É Agios f# É Efstratios •# Lesvos THESSALY É (Mytilini) •#

AEGEAN É SPORADES SEA f#

STEREA f# TURKEY Evia

ELLADA Chios •# É

ATHENS É f# #_ É ATTICA Samos•# PELOPONNESE

É f# Leros •#

CYCLADES É

É DODECANESE f# Tilos •#

AE GEAN SE A É •#Rhodes MEDITERRANEAN

SEA É ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Andrea Schulte-Peevers Crete Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to around 70 countries, but she’ll forever cherish the memory of first setting foot on Crete some 17 years ago and being instantly charmed by its people, the rich tapestry of their traditions and their long and proud history. She has written or contributed to some 60 Lonely Planet books, including the Crete regional guide. Her current home is Berlin.

Richard Waters Dodecanese Richard is an award-winning journalist and works for The Independ- ent, Sunday Times, Wanderlust and National Geographic Traveller. He lives with his fiancée and two kids in the Cotswolds. His spiritual home is Greece thanks to more than 20 visits, the first of which was as a kid in the ’70s on the isles of Corfu, Rhodes and Zakynthos. He loves their myths, cuisine and, most of all, the Greeks themselves. Even in the midst of the crisis, he found them to possess their usual humour, warmth and stoicism. Richard also wrote the Greek Islands Today, History and Architecture chapters. AOUR beat-up oldSTORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in , London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Korina Miller Coordinating Author, Cyclades Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seasidekafeneio . Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and a MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 30 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a commissioning editor and a children’s writing coach. Korina also wrote the Plan Your Trip section, Nature & Wildlife chapter and the Survival Guide.

Alexis Averbuck Athens & Around, Saronic Gulf Islands, Cyclades, Ionian Islands Alexis lives in Hydra, Greece, takes regular reverse R&R in Athens, and makes any excuse she can to travel the isolated back roads of her adopted land. She is committed to dispelling the stereotype that Greece is simply a string of sandy beaches. A travel writer for two decades, Alexis has lived in Antarctica for a year, crossed the Pacific by sailboat and written books on her journeys through Asia and the Americas. She’s also a painter – visit www.alexisaverbuck.com. Read more about Alexis at: lonelyplanet.com/members/alexisaverbuck Michael Stamatios Clark Northeastern Aegean Islands, Evia & the Sporades Michael’s Greek roots go back to the village of Karavostamo on the island of Ikaria, home of his maternal grandparents, and one of his destinations for this guide. His first trip to the islands was as a deckhand aboard a Greek freighter, trading Greek lessons for English over backgammon. For this edition, Michael chewed on Chios, listened to rembetika music on Skyros and tested the thermal sea waters of Ikaria, sampling Greek coffee and along the way.

Victoria Kyriakopoulos Victoria is a Melbourne-based writer, journalist and foodie who has lived, worked and travelled extensively in her ancestral home, feeding her passion and sharing her insight on Greece. She’s written for newspapers and magazines around the globe and worked on Lonely Planet guides to Greece since 2001. Victoria wrote the Eat Like a Local, The Arts and Greek Cuisine chapters.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – Mar 2014 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74220 727 8 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 2014 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or . Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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