Top 10 Crete

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP10 CRETE

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M OR I EN 10 5 A UT LIKO M A 2 MA LI Best beaches K Agios S O E OUT PLATIA I Titos AGIOS I TOU ARI ADNI AS TITOS S T S 10 R IO IGI O Must-see museums & ancient sites AY F M I R A B E L O U Battle of Crete O B Loggia AN Museum S 10 O Venetian DHR K Spectacular areas of natural beauty HA M D ZID A K I U Walls IL DOU OG ATO O U S D EO HÍ D 10 K Best traditional tavernas D O Archaeological EDHALOU RA I APOUTIE Museum S THOU

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A 10 D Most exciting festivals 10 Liveliest bars & clubs 10 Best hotels for every budget 10 Most charming villages 10 Fascinating monasteries & churches 10 Insider tips for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO 10THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

TOP 10 CRETE

ROBIN GAULDIE

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL 2 Contents Robin Gauldietl.Spine–DKImages: Peter Jousiffe b. Left Front –DKImages: Robin Gauldiebl; Superstock All rights reserved. All rightsreserved. limitingtherightsunder Without copyright above, reserved nopartofthispublication and boundinChinaby Leo Paper Products Ltd hierarchy isimplied. orpopularity All ofquality Reproduced by Colourscan,SingaporePrinted retrieval system, ortransmitted, inany form, orby recording, or otherwise), withoutthepriorwritten orotherwise), recording, may bereproduced,storedinorintroducedintoa any means(electronic,mechanical, photocopying, Copyright 2003, 2011 ©Dorling Kindersley material on third party websites,material onthirdparty andcannotguarantee thatany website addressinthisbookwill permission ofboththecopyright owner andthe Dorling Kindersley, 80Strand,London oremail: [email protected] 0RL, GreatBritain, gallery hangingarrangements andtravelgallery information areliabletochange. The publishers cannot accordance withBritishusage;iethe “first Every effortEvery hasbeenmadetoensurethatthisbookisasup-to-date aspossibleatthetimeof be a suitable source oftravelbe asuitable information. We value theviews andsuggestionsofourreaders Dolphinfresco, Knosos telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, telephonenumbers,openinghours,prices, as however, such going topress.Somedetails, Great Britain byGreat Britain DorlingKindersley Limited Within eachWithin Top 10 listinthisbook,no above publisherofthisbook.Published in floor” isthefloorabove groundlevel. accept responsibility foraccept responsibility any consequencesarisingfromtheuseofthisbook,nor for any DKPublishing,375HudsonStreet, Floors arereferred tothroughout in Produced by BlueIslandPublishing The information inthisDKEyewitness Top 10 Travel Guideischecked regularly. Published by intheUnitedStates 10 are,intheeditor’s opinion,of 11 12 13 14 10 987654321 First American Edition, 2003 Edition, First American New York,New York10014 Reprinted withrevisions ISBN 978-0-75667-035-1 Adm Key to abbreviations 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011 roughly equalmerit. ISSN 1479-344X very highly.very Pleasewriteto:Publisher, DKEyewitness Travel Guides, admission charge payable Limited Right Rethymno harbour

: agefotostock main.Back – sad n otTis 46 Islands andBoat Trips Beach Resorts Monasteries Churches and 38 Castles Venetian and Turkish Folklore Museums Museums Art and Archaeological Ancient Sites oet nHsoy 32 Moments inHistory Gournia and MtIdi The Amari Valley Samaria Gorge Gortys Rethymno Phaestos Chania Museum Irakleio Archaeological Irakleio Ancient Knosos Crete’s Top10 Contents Free noadmission charge DK Images: NigelHicks tc,tr; 44 28 42 40 36 34 30 26 24 22 20 18 14 12 8 Contents 3 116 123 125 120 121 122 Families and Disabled and Disabled Families Visitors and Banking Communications Health and Security Tips 124 Places to Stay 126 Tips Shopping Tips Budget Ideas General Index General Index 132 Streetsmart To and Getting Around Crete General 117 Information Avoid to Things Special Interest 119 Holidays Eating and Drinking 118 74 78 90 64 48 68 70 54 102 Siteia beach Siteia Siteia harbour Siteia Right Tavernas, Chersonisos Tavernas, Following pages Following

Castle, Paleochora Castle, Paleochora Plakias Right

Left

Western Crete Western Eastern Crete Around the Island Around Central Crete Food and Drink Food 66 Streets Markets and Shopping and Shopping Markets Villages Villages Left Beauty Areas of Natural 50 Tavernas Tavernas and Ouzeries Cafés 72 Restaurants Music and Instruments Music and Instruments 60 Myths and Legends Myths and Legends 58 Famous Cretans Famous 56 Wildlife Wildlife Mountain Walks Mountain Walks 52 Nightlife Nightlife Festivals and Events and Events Festivals 62

CRETE’S TOP 10

Highlights of Crete

6–7 CRETE’S TOP 10 Ancient Knosos 8–11 Irakleio 12–13 Irakleio Archaeological Museum 14–15 Chania 18–19 Phaestos 20–21 Rethymno 22–23 Gortys 24–25 Samaria Gorge 26–27 The Amari Valley and Mt Idi 28–29 Gournia 30–31 Top 10 of Everything 32–75 6 Crete’s Top 10 and beacheslappedbyadeepbluesea. backdrop ofmagniﬁcentmountainscenery This richhumanheritageissetagainstthe Venetians andTurksalsolefttheirmark. over 4,000yearsago.Greeks,Romans,Byzantines,Saracens, Europe’s oldestcivilization,theenigmaticMinoanculturewhichﬂourished country, withitsownhistory,folkloreandtraditions.Itwasthebirthplaceof Although itcouldnotbemoreGreek,Creteisreallyacountrywithin ! pp8–11). century the early20th reconstructed in imaginatively palace was Minoan world. The Mediterranean relics oftheancient the mostimpressive exploring Crete’s wild Once theisland’s west open-air restaurants and shops,makes a with goodbeaches little harbourtown, nearby andlots of Knosos isamong Ancient Knosos capital, thisprettycapital, Highlights ofCrete (see pp18–19). great basefor (see Share your travelrecommendations on Chania $ sites £

Museum great archaeological Knosos andother amazing ﬁndsfrom museum houses Crete’s leading +ISSAMOU +ASTELLI Archaeological Irakleio 0ALEOCHORA (see pp14–15). 3AMARIA !LIKIANOS 'ORGE 0LATANIAS JF LN NJMFT /MALOS #(!.)!

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G L B 0 Sea (seepp20–21) the Messaraplainand theLibyan yards onahillsideoverlooking of walls, stair Phaestos isafascinating maze Minoan palacesitesinCrete, % S 3OUDA J modern streets(seepp12–13). tions, bustlingmarkets and of medieval Venetian fortiﬁca- Crete’s isaneclecticmix capital of everyday Greekstreetlife, @ One ofthemostimportant Phaestos traveldk.com A goodplacetoseeaslice Irakleio 'EORGIOUPOLI .FEJUFSSBOFBO 4FBPG$SFUF 0LAKIAS ways ways 4FB 2ETHYMNO .

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Crete’s Top 10 7 . 6AI (see pp30–31). (see pp30–31). (see pp22–3). :AKROS 3ITEIA Gournia best preserved The Rethymno largest third Crete’s ) Minoan town on Crete on Crete Minoan town has a honeycomb-like houses of tiny labyrinth lanes sur- and narrow rounding a small palace the Gulf of overlooking Mirabello ^ city is packed with remind- city is packed ers of a multi-layered castle, A huge history. Venetian mosques, Turkish houses and bustling town are part of the markets beach along with a charm, esplanade 3KOPI Samaria Gorge Samaria “White Mountains” of The * the Sfakia region dominate region dominate the Sfakia rugged This Crete. southwest can only most of which massif, as there are on foot, be explored in pine roads, is cloaked few the lovely by trees and traversed Samaria Gorge (see pp26–7) ,!3)4() -AKRYGIALOS 4FBPG$SFUF )ERAPETRA 'OURNIA !GIOS.IKOLAOS (see pp28–9). (see pp28–9). The Amari The Amari & Valley ( Old-fashioned villages, empty mountain pano- ramas and legend- seem laden caves part of a like world, different and can easily be with a explored rented car or escorted coach tour Mt Idi

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.FEJUFSSBOFBO & +ASTELI +NOSOS )2!+,%)/ Gortys post-Minoan post-Minoan all hint at the all hint at the (see pp24–5). (see pp24–5). )RAKLEIO toppled Roman toppled Roman fortiﬁcations, an an fortiﬁcations, The bases of bases of The chequered past of past of chequered 6ARVARI remains of temples remains of temples agora, acropolis and agora, acropolis and 'ORTYS a Byzantine basilica, a Byzantine basilica, Gortys to Athena and Apollo &ODELE columns, the ruins of of columns, the ruins !GIOI $EKA T

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0 8 Crete’s Top 10 Sir Arthur Evansbeganexcavationsofthesite. Sir Arthur of the20thcentury, whenBritisharchaeologist atthebeginning only begantobeunearthed oftheKnososstory 4,000 yearsago.Thispart that heldswayover theAegean morethan reality, itwasthehubofaBronzeAge empire its victimsinthelabyrinthbuiltbyDaedalus.In whose palacethebull-headedMinotaurhunted In legend,itwastheseatofKingMinos,beneath Knosos issteepedinmysteryandenchantment. Central court (see pp14–15) €10 Archaeological Museum Knosos andIrakleio €3; combinedticket for • some nationalholidays 3pm daily daily; winter:8:30am– • Irakleio •28102 31940 5 km(8miles)southof • Disabled accessdifﬁcult Adm €6;concessions Summer:8am–8pm MapK4 main road to Irakleio. entrance, alongthe steps ofthesite bars withinafew tavernas andsnack There are several have arrived. coach tour groups opens, before most the site assoonit peak season, get to are holidaying in summer. Butifyou pleasant thaninhigh exploring more weather makes autumn, whencooler Knosos inspring or If possible, visit Ancient Knosos • • Route 97, Closed •

0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Sights @ expansive roomonthe upper ﬂoorofthepalace believing thatit might building the “noble hall” have beentheaudience hall oftheancient with copiesofthe walls aredecorated Minoan kings.Its agile, leapingbull fabulous frescoesof dancers –themost famous imagesofKnosos. ! were builtarounda would have beenthehub central courtyard. This of thecomplex andwould probably have beenused and for royal audiences. for ceremonialpurposes The courtyardofKnosos has acommandingview of thevalley. BustofSir Arthur Evans Throne Room North Entrance Passage HallofDouble Axes Great Staircase South Portico Storehouses Dolphin Frescoes Piano Nobile Central Court Evans dubbedthis Piano Nobile All Minoanpalaces Central Court , with frescoesofleaping were lavishly decorated dolphins andwell equipped with abathandeven a ﬂush lavatory. £ “magazines” contain giant“magazines” contain pithoi, which theMinoans earthenware jarscalled used tostoreolive oil, $ The queen’s rooms Dolphin Frescoes The storehousesor Storehouses are stillmadetoday. olives, grainand millennia, and other supplies. Such jars,with the next four a capacity ofa capacity Greeks over up to200 used by later litres, were Crete’s Top 10 9

7 0 ) carved (above 6 See pp14–15 1 Hall of Double Axes Arthur Bust of Sir Evans Great Staircase Great smaller Three 8 much to his imagination. much His broad reconstructions His broad reconstructions of the ancient palace owe this hillside above Irakleio. Irakleio. this hillside above symbols palace of King Minos to characteristic symbol of symbol of characteristic Knosos and its empire. after the double-bladed axe the double-bladed axe after first traced the legendary The double axe was a a was double axe The King’s chamber is named is named chamber King’s honouring the man who into its walls and columns. into its walls & leading to the hallway The ) stands A bust of Evans at the site entrance, ^ palace complex. palace complex. of these wide steps of these wide steps decorates this part of the decorates this part of the the grand staircase. Four the grand staircase. Four which was found here here found was which shallow stone steps of of stone steps shallow the original Shield fresco the original Shield fresco corridors would once once would corridors broad, the five led off have survive, and a copy of survive, of and a copy stairways and a maze of 9 23 5 4 Plan of Knosos Plan of Throne Room Throne Here, a stone throne – made to honour the gods. made to honour the gods. perhaps before sacrifices were sacrifices were perhaps before used for ritual purification, purification, ritual used for basin is believed to have been been to have basin is believed – stands next to a basin. The The – stands to a basin. next supposedly that of King Minos supposedly that of King Minos (

. The roof of this roof of this The . (see pp14–15) Many of the exhibits at Knosos are copies – the originals are of the exhibits at Knosos are copies – the originals are Many Museum Archaeological preserved at the Irakleio

South Portico south gateway imposing toThe the North Entrance Entrance North Passage

Museum may be seen in the Irakleio Archaeological Archaeological Irakleio be seen in the may (like the other dazzling finds from Knosos) (like Procession fresco, the original of which the original of which fresco, Procession and is decorated with copies of the flowing of the flowing and is decorated with copies tapering wooden columns. tapering columns. wooden palace complex has been partially restored, has palace complex

porch was originally supported by four four originally supported by was porch % enduring symbols of enduring symbols of Knosos, adorns the entrance to this bulls outlasted the enigmatic Minoan the Minotaur. bull, one of the bull, one of the and chambers ruined deep stone storage pits. Images of sacred foster the legend of the legend of foster

A fresco of a charging A fresco of a charging passage. Either side of the entrance are * civilization and helped civilization and helped Left Central Court, Knosos Centre Horns of Consecration, Knosos Right View of Gournia Archaeologists in Crete Arthur Evans John Pendlebury ! Arthur Evans was born into a $ Pendlebury, who continued wealthy British family and educa- Evans’s work at Knosos, is one ted at Oxford, where he later of the most colourful figures in became keeper of the prestig- Cretan archaeology. He explored Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top ious Ashmolean Museum. much of the island on foot and Crete’s liberation from Turkish by donkey, pinpointing dozens of rule in 1897, three years after important sites. He also became his first visit to the site, made it a hero to Cretans after dying in possible for him to begin work action against the invading in 1900, and he devoted the Germans in 1941. next three decades to Knosos. Federico Halbherr Harriet Boyd-Hawes % An Italian, Halbherr came @ Harriet Boyd (Boyd-Hawes to Crete in 1884 and befriended following her marriage) arrived the Cretan archaeologist Joseph on Crete in 1901 and, after hunt- Hadzidakis, with whom he ing for promising sites, surprised discovered the Bronze Age relics the archaeological world by at the Diktian Cave (see p80). unearthing at Gournia a complete He later unearthed the palace Minoan town (see pp30–31). sites at Phaestos (see pp20–21) and Agia Triada (see p81). Nikolaos Platon £ The instincts of Greek Richard Seager archaeologist Nikolaos Platon ^ Among the first American led to the rediscovery in 1961–2 scholars to work in Crete, where of the unplundered, overlooked at the beginning of the 20th palace site at Zakros (see p35). century he excavated the Minoan The important clue was the site at Vasiliki, before starting natural harbour – Platon work at Mochlos (see p105), suspected the site had once where American archaeologists been an important trading city. are still at work together with Greek researchers.

Joseph Hadzidakis & Crete’s own Joseph Hadzi- dakis pioneered the search for relics of the island’s distant past, winning permission from the Ottoman sultan to set up the Cretan Archaeological Society in the 1880s. The Society played a Agia Triada key role in locating and preserving

10 For more on the ancient sites in Crete See pp34–5 Crete’s Top 10 11 claimed? ed was a major Arthur Evans was ins- Arthur Evans was Knosos by pired to dig at the great German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, whose prevented death in 1890 him from excavating the site of what he was convinc traveldk.com unction of the rooms at Knosos. Bust of Sir Arthur Evans Arthur Minoan palace. Evans, who excavated Minoan palace. Evans, who excavated Knosos the long-lost Minoan palace at stands 1929, and between 1900 of accused by some archaeologists imagina- having used rather too much site, and tion in his reconstruction of the he especially of the upper floor which That said, dubbed the “Piano Nobile”. to life a Evans was attempting to bring the mists site whose origins were lost in perhaps of time, and his guesswork is excusable. Along with the brilliant artistry of the long dead Minoan fresco-painters whose work decorates the walls, his lively imagination at least makes Knosos one of the most colourful and fascinating ruins in Greece. Minoan civilization was clearly sophis- Minoan civilization was ticated, but did the bath really belong to a queen, as Evans Queen’s Bath Queen’s bath of the clay reconstruction The about is typical of the conjecture the f The Discovery of Discovery The Knosos Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on email newsletter Sign up for DK’s Heinrich Schliemann Heinrich archaeol- and famous A rich Cretan businessman and Minos Kalokairinos The prominent director of prominent director of The Alan Wace

ogist fascinated with the world with the world ogist fascinated epics, he discovered of Homer’s Troy first the site of ancient (in then Mycenae Turkey), (in he mainland Greece). In 1887 to Crete, his attention turned his researches but died before the leaving could bear fruit, Arthur Evans. field open for amateur archaeologist Kalokair- amateur archaeologist inos began the first dig at Knosos finding fragments of in 1878, and large pottery Mycenaean storage jars. His discov- pottery eries brought Knosos to the Schliemann. of Heinrich attention

the British School at Athens, Athens, at the British School clashed with the opinion- Wace when his Arthur Evans ated on at Mycenae discoveries the mainland led him to claim that the Mycenaean (correctly) had not been an offshoot culture of the Minoan but had existed independently and eventually had come to control Knosos. )

( * Crete’s important and in sites, Crete’s Archaeo- up the Irakleio setting . logical Museum (see pp14–15) Phaestos Irakleio A massive medieval fortress still guards the harbour where the galleys of the Serene Republic of Venice once moored. Centuries-old churches and drinking fountains are other reminders of £ Venetian Arsenal Irakleio’s Venetian era. Busy open-air markets and The great wooden the island’s most fascinating museum are also war-galleys that gave attractions. Find a café table on one of the central Venice its maritime supremacy were built squares and watch the busy everyday life of a and repaired in vaulted small Greek town, or browse the markets for arcades (above) on the Cretan antiques and delicacies to take home. harbourfront opposite the fortress. Wooden ﬁshing boats are still hauled up Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top Top 10 Sights here for maintenance. 1 Archaeological Museum 2 Venetian Fortress (Koules) 3 Venetian Arsenal 4 Historical Museum of Crete 5 Morosini Fountain 6 Market Plateia Venizelou 7 Museum of Religious Art To see the market at 8 Natural History Museum its best, arrive early, 9 Museum of the when the stalls are Battle of Crete still piled high. The 0 Venetian Bastions market remains open all day, Monday to Saturday, but most produce traders have packed up by midday.

Plateia Venizelou is lined with pavement cafés and a good Irakleio harbour place for a cold drink and a rest after a $ Historical Museum morning exploring of Crete the market and city. The museum’s proudest ! Archaeological possession is the only Map K3 • Greek Museum painting by El Greco to have National Tourism Irakleio’s Archaeological been retained in the artist’s Organisation, 1 Museum is one of the ﬁn- native Crete. There are also Xanthoudidou est in Greece, with ﬁnds some lovely stone pieces • 28102 46299 from ancient Minoan, (below; see p83). • 8:30am–3pm Mon–Fri Greek and Roman cities (above; see pp14–15). Venetian Fortress @ (Koules) The massive walls of the square fortress – the most imposing historic building in Irakleio – were strengthened by the Venetians as the Turkish threat grew during the 16th century.

12 For a morning’s walk in Irakleio See pp82–3 Crete’s Top 10 13

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Irakleio’s Story Saracens who The occupied Crete in the centuries 9th and 10th built a stronghold on the site of an earlier settle- Roman-Greek ment named Irakleio the Greek hero after Herakles (Hercules). the rule, Venetian Under corrupted name was into Candia. It reverted to its original name after independence from city The was Turkey. damaged by heavily World bombing during II, but rose again to War ofﬁ become Crete’s capital in 1971.

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& ﬁ world’s The collection of Cretan icons in a pretty is displayed church 15th-century (below) ing depictions of saints and martyrs, some of them in elaborate silver frames, adorn the walls. are three works There Damaskinos: Michailis by the Magi and Women to the Holy ,

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^ ^ singly intact, though among a concrete tide The of modern buildings. best place to appreciate cations is from the fortiﬁ outside the Chania Gate, with its elaborate carving. to it is the massive Next Bastion. Pantokratoros walls walls ) ) (right)

Market Market in the hub of in the hub of (above)

Museum of the Battle of Crete Natural History History Natural Museum Carved sym- stone lions, the Morosini Fountain Fountain Morosini The old market has striped has striped old market The

awnings and counters piled high piled high and counters awnings a myriad varieties of olive of olive varieties a myriad

( ( small collection This highlights the German and of 1941 invasion the Cretan resistance to German occupation are There from 1941–45. photographs, documents, and uniforms. weapons

* * an impression of Offers the Cretan landscape in Minoan times, before the importation of palm and trees, eucalyptus There bougainvillea. are animals, also stuffed and crystals.fossils bol of St Mark, decorate a small decorate a small bol of St Mark, fountain Irakleio’s old quarter. It is named It is named old quarter. Irakleio’s Doge a great 17th-century after dry. Sadly, it is often Venice. of % % with everything from live snails to snails to with everything from live 14 Crete’s Top 10 people oftheancientworld. writtenby Phaestos Disc,withitssymbols Minoan doubleaxes,aswelltheenigmatic from Knosos,jewellery, sealsand symbol famous andstrikingexhibitsarethefrescoes more than3,000yearsago.Amongthemost civilization, whichflourishedonthisisland marvels ofthefirstsophisticatedEuropean Museum givesadazzlinginsightintothe archaeological sites,Irakleio’sArchaeological of findsfromCrete’snewlyrediscovered Founded in1937 tohousethegrowingtreasury Archaeological Museum Façade ofthe Sun Mon, 8am–8pm Tue– 79099 Irakleio Xanthoudidou 711, Plateia Eleftherias/1 €4; concessions€2 exhibitions temporary café terraces. and hasarow of is pedestrianized near themuseum, Plateia Eleftherias, Chatzidaki Street. main buildingoff the north sideofthe seen inaroom on (shown here) canbe important exhibits the museum’s most exhibition housing temporary closed. A building remains and mostofthe since November 2006 major renovation been undergoing The museumhas • Adm for Adm • Irakleio Archaeological Museum Irakleio Archaeological • 1:30–8pm 28102 Share your travelrecommendations on The mostexciting and @ stone coffin isadorned This elaboratelypainted ! to offer areallink seem palaces. They Triada andother from Knosos, Agia colourful frescoes are thelively, museum’s displays impressive ofthe with depictionsofanimal and present. between thepast procession sacrifices, afuneral pulled by slaves, and women ridingchariots mythical beasts.Itwas a Minoan ruler.a Minoan perhaps madefor 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Exhibits Town Mosaic Phaestos Disc Gaming Board Miniature Figures Jug ofReeds Bull’s HeadRhyton Faience Figurines Minoan HallofFrescoes Ayia Triada Sarcophagus of theSnake Goddess and Helmets Frescoes Hall of Sarcophagus Ayia Triada Jewellery (main image), traveldk.com (above) Gold necklaces, pendants # hilts andhelmetsareamong the many findsfromKnosos, Phaestos andGortys. $ Found atKnosos,these figures and Helmets Minoan Jewellery the Snake Goddess Faience Figurines of suggesting some ancient Creteand betweencontinuity later Helleniccultures. The figurineswere discovered by , rings,seals,sword Sir Arthur Evans,Sir Arthur who considered matriarchal society. evidence ofa them aspossible in eitherhand,as (left) asnake carry Astarte, do somelater the goddess depictions of Crete’s Top 10 15 the museum look like toys but but toys look like Miniature Figures Miniature figurines Doll-like early in the day. at times. It is best to go be delayed or restricted or restricted be delayed exhibition space, space, exhibition however, can become quite and entry crowded, may of the current temporaryof the current Due to the smallness Due to the smallness Minoan art in the world. Minoan art in the world. the largest museum of (32,300 sq ft), making it (32,300 sq ft), covering 3,000 sq m covering some 10,000 Minoan Minoan some 10,000 in 25 rooms artifacts new museum will house new some time in 2012. The The some time in 2012. due to be completed to various delays and is delays to various museum complex, museum complex, has been subject which on the modernization of the and extension Museum Guide is under way Major work of gestures of worship. of worship. of gestures contemporary fashions, along with an indication important insight into The figures give an an give figures The . (see p80) Cave (Psychro) sanctuaries and caves, and caves, sanctuaries as the Diktian such & votive offerings. Most Most offerings. votive in mountain found were a religious purpose as as a religious purpose are believed to have had had to have are believed (below) (below) of people and animals and animals of people Gaming Board gaming A decorative Town Mosaic Town tiles, each Glazed ancient civilizations. as trade links with other as trade links with other leisured class as well leisured class as well * Crete had a wealthy, Crete had a wealthy, ivory, shows that ancient ivory, that ancient shows leaf, turquoise paste and and paste turquoise leaf, crystal, gold and silver board, elaborately inlaid board, elaborately inlaid and decorated with rock ) the wall of a palace. the wall that may have graced graced have that may of a mural decoration of a mural decoration era, were originally part originally part era, were depicting multi-storey depicting multi-storey buildings of the Minoan

With its dark pattern of reeds painted on a of reeds painted on a With its dark pattern Jug of Reeds Bull’s Head Head Bull’s Rhyton Phaestos Disc Phaestos disc (below) clay This

probably used in ritual. probably used era (1700–1450 BC). era (1700–1450 discovered at Knosos and at Knosos and discovered mother-of-pearl snout. It was snout. It was mother-of-pearl the ﬁnest example of work from the New Palace Palace from the New of work the ﬁnest example rock crystal eyes and a a crystal and eyes rock stone and has gilded horns, gilded horns, stone and has lighter background, this graceful pottery jug is jug is this graceful pottery lighter background, carved from black steatite steatite carved from black this 16th-century BC BC this 16th-century (right) is wine vessel

^ % the in Fashioned head, shape of a bull’s known Minoan script. Minoan script. known 1903, are the earliest are the earliest 1903, found at Phaestos in at Phaestos in found printing. The hieroglyphics was on the disc, which example of a form of of of a form example believed to be the earliest to be the earliest believed

is embossed with symbols (

Chania Chania is Crete’s prettiest (and second largest) town, with colourful old Venetian buildings ringing a sheltered harbour that is guarded by sturdy fortifications. To the south are the treeless peaks of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), sometimes snow-covered to June. Good beaches lie to the west and on the Akrotiri peninsula to the east. As well as Venetian ramparts and churches, a scattering of old Turkish buildings are reminders of the 250 years of Turkish rule. Municipal Market

Top 10 Sights Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top 1 Firkas 2 Chania Archaeological Museum 3 Municipal Market 4 Cretan House Folklore Museum 5 Café on Kondylaki Mosque of the Janissaries 6 Byzantine Collection Chania is the best 7 Etz Hayyim Synagogue shopping spot on 8 Schiavo Bastion and Crete. Designer beachwear and silver Venetian Walls jewellery are in shops 9 Lighthouse on Chalidon and the 0 “Oasis Beach”/Kalamaki harbour. Cretan-style leather boots are found in cobbler’s shops on Skridlof. The Cretan House Folk- lore Museum sells beautiful handicrafts. Atmospheric alleyway in Chania Municipal Market The priciest and noi- £ The market, housed in siest restaurants line a 19th-century building, is Akti Koundouriotou, best visited first thing in the harbour esplan- the morning. Local farm ade. For cheap eats, ! Firkas produce is piled high, try the streets east Built to guard the har- including weird-looking of Plateia Sindrivani. bour, this massive bastion fish on beds of ice. There now houses an eclectic is every imaginable variety Map D2 • Municipality Naval Museum (above), of olive, herb and spice. Information Office, including a display about next to the town hall, the Battle of Crete. 28213 41666, 8:30am– 7:30pm Mon–Fri, Chania Archaeol- @ 8:30am–2:30pm Sat ogical Museum • Firkas 9am–2pm daily The excellent collection (Apr–Oct: to 4pm) includes Minoan pottery • Museums Tue–Sun and clay tablets, Classical • Market 7am–noon and Hellenistic sculpture Mon–Sat and glassware, and some fine mosaics (right).

18 Previous pages Rethymno harbour

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out until May 1945. out until May alongside Greek and British Commonwealth troops. The German in Chania held garrison Cretan civilians fought 1898. In World War II, War World In 1898. in Turkish hands until Turkish in

siege and remained in 1645 after a 55-day a 55-day after in 1645 However, Venetians, who fortiﬁed who fortiﬁed Venetians, and harbour. the town mainly ruled by the by mainly ruled Samos arrived. From From Samos arrived. it was until 1645 1252 520 BC, colonists from Chania’s Story earliest settlers Chania’s in Minoans. Later, were

3/$7,$ ,'+2 $/ + statuary, mosaics and some ﬁne icons. of coins, jewellery and of coins, jewellery and Empire, with displays Byzantine Collection Byzantine Collection 1,000-year the covers history of the Byzantine Next to the Firkas, the the to the Firkas, Next 6,1'5,9$1, ^ was inadvertently sunk sunk inadvertently was a British submarine. by when a deportees’ ship ship when a deportees’ 376 Jews who died who died Jews 376 bears the names of bears the names of the Germans. A plaque A plaque the Germans. ed to death camps by ed to death camps by occupation of 1941–45, occupation of 1941–45, deport- were when they lation until the German lation until the German by Chania’s Jewish popu- Jewish Chania’s by & 15th-century The used synagogue was

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5 0 NP 8 $ '2 = 81 28 $.7, .2 328/ 2.2 (27 7 + 6 ( 2 , 5 3 to set their to set their Mosque of the Schiavo Bastion Schiavo Walls and Venetian ”Oasis Beach”/ Beach”/ ”Oasis Kalamaki building on the island. building on the island. It is the oldest Ottoman It is the oldest Ottoman Janissaries the conquest of 1645. the conquest of 1645. stamp on Crete after stamp on Crete after multi-domed building multi-domed building (above) % this built Turks The loomed. (No public access.) threat of Turkish invasion invasion Turkish threat of mid-15th century as the century as the mid-15th fortiﬁcations, built in the built in the fortiﬁcations, section of the Venetian Venetian section of the preserved of the landward preserved of the landward either side of it are the best either side of it are the best * avo Schi massive The and the high walls Bastion cending and water sports. cending and water cafés and restaurants, paras- cafés curve of sand and shingle, best near Chania, with its long from the city centre, is the Kalamaki, about 3 km (2 miles) Chrissi Akti headland and Akti headland and Chrissi ) between the beach, The (see also p39).

Walk out to the out to the Walk Lighthouse Cretan House Cretan Museum Folklore

waterfront, harbour harbour waterfront, entrance and city. skills harbour wall (above)harbour wall of the a ﬁne view for hangings and embroi- hangings and dery, this museum preserves and reveals traditional Cretan village tip of the Venetian Venetian tip of the tools, looms, spinning spinning tools, looms, wall wheels, rugs, little lighthouse at the lighthouse at the little

( $ With its collection of 20 Crete’s Top 10 by atidalwave,inaround1450BC. BCanddestroyed,around 1600 possibly palace (knownastheSecondPalace), built ruins visibletodayareremnantsofthelater farmlands oftheMessaraPlane.Most thefertile at Phaestos,onahilltopabove thesitesoftwoMinoanpalaces unearthing Italian scholarFederico Halbherrwas Knosos, themoremeticulouslyscientific Evanswasreconstructing While Arthur Grand Stairway (see p81):€6 ticket with Agia Triada • Adm €4;combined 8:30am–3pm daily daily; Nov–May: • Jun–Oct: 8am–8pm village •2892042315 (5 miles)west ofMoires • MapH58km drive from Phaestos. less than30minutes and smallhotels, with sandybeaches resorttle ofMatala, stop, headfor thelit- For anovernight on themainstreet. TavernaIoannis, Agios village, includingthe Ioannis at Agios refreshments stops better (andcheaper) but there are several and indifferent food, serves colddrinks Pavilion atPhaestos The on-site Tourist Phaestos Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter on 1 Top 10 Sights 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Tiers ofstoneseats ! (below) occupy thenorth side ofthe West Court- yard, apaved spacethat was usedfor rituals and bull-vaulting depictedin perhaps,theincluding, theatrical ceremonies, South ofthecourtyard some Minoanfrescoes. are twowell-like stone- lined pitsusedfor storing grain, andinthenortheast corner aretheremainsof a shrinewhich was part of theearlierpalace. Royal Royal Classical Temple Palace Workshops FirstPalace Remains StoreroomsandPithoi Archive Peristyle Hall Central Court Grand Stairway West Courtyardand Theatre Area and Theatre Area and Theatre West Courtyard Apartments formerly ﬂanked ontwosides by covered walkways, may have been aparadeground.Niches, perhaps for sentries,arerecessed £ into walls by themainentrance. traveldk.com This vast courtyard(above) Central Court stairway leadsfromthe stairway West Courtyard uptotheremains of apropylon, orportico, and intoacolonnaded lightwell. This was the @ main entrancetothepalace. This broad,monumental Grand Stairway , Crete’s Top 10 21 re- 8 Plan of Phaestos 5 0 3 4 . Several pithoi . Several Storerooms and Storerooms Pithoi First Palace Remains such theories remain such now. for speculative warlike Mycenaeans of Mycenaeans warlike the mainland. But all Other explanations Other explanations the by include invasion which would have have would which triggered great tidal and suffocating waves ash. clouds of volcanic island of Thira (Santorini), Thira island of of the volcano on the of the volcano civilisation? Many believe believe civilisation? Many the eruption that it was collapse of the Minoan Minoan Demise What caused the sudden about 200 years later. about 200 years c.1900 BC and destroyed BC and destroyed c.1900 The palace was built built palace was The huge ceramic jars called huge ceramic jars called are fenced the First Palace main in the storerooms. main their protection. for off and olives were kept in in kept were and olives of site,the smaller ruins pithoi ^ storerooms (above)The where essentials were grain, oil, wine as such & the southeast of the To 2 6 9 - . 1 7 (above) Royal Apartments Royal these off, fenced Now running water water running ) lustral basin (covered lustral basin (covered a bath pool), and even room and lavatory with room and lavatory with the King’s Chamber, a a Chamber, the King’s of the Queen’s Chamber, Chamber, of the Queen’s in the complex, consisting consisting in the complex, rooms were the grandest the grandest rooms were . (see pp14–15)

Classical Temple remnants of a The Palace Workshops Palace remains of a The Archive have may coffers of mud-brick row This The stumps of columns lining columns lining of stumps The Peristyle Hall Peristyle

Archaeological Museum Archaeological period (3500–1900 BC). period (3500–1900 mysterious collapse of collapse of mysterious the Minoan civilization. what is known as the Prepalatial as the Prepalatial what is known 1000 years after the the after years 1000 for the palace artisans. the palace artisans. for discovered here. It can be seen in the Irakleio here. It can be seen in the Irakleio discovered more archaic building, dating from building, from dating more archaic evidence that Phaestos that Phaestos evidence in some still lived was small chambers which which small chambers been workshops have may with its undeciphered hieroglyphics, was was with its undeciphered hieroglyphics, Beneath it are traces of an even it are traces of an even Beneath the Classical era provide the Classical era provide Off the courtyard are the courtyard are Off been the ﬁling department. The Phaestos Disc, Disc, Phaestos The been the ﬁling department. was once a colonnaded courtyard. a colonnaded courtyard. once was small temple built during small temple built during sophisticated kiln or sophisticated kiln or furnace bronze-smith’s stand in a large courtyard. this square space indicate that it that it space indicate this square

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% $ Rethymno Rethymno, Crete’s third largest town, has been occupied since Minoan times and flourished under Venetian rule. Built on a wide, shallow bay, it has a good beach at the heart of town, @ Historical and Folk and an old quarter crammed with the tall Art Museum windows and wrought-iron balconies of old- Vivid woven rugs and fashioned Venetian and Turkish houses. Several hangings (above), fine lace, traditional pottery and mag- well-preserved mosques are relics of the Turkish nificent silver and amber era, and, along with the palm trees planted jewellery are among the along its seafront esplanade, give the town relics of a vanished way of life preserved in this small a pleasantly exotic atmosphere. museum. Richly decorated Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top textiles from the Franzeskaki Top 10 Sights collection are also displayed. 1 Venetian Fortress 2 Historical and Folk Art Museum 3 Nerandzes Mosque 4 Rethymno Archaeological Museum 5 Rimondi Fountain Venetian Gate 6 Venetian Loggia 7 Municipal Gardens Visit Rethymno in 8 July to enjoy the Inner Harbour annual wine festival 9 Venetian Gate in the public gardens. 0 Beach Rethymno’s bustling ! Venetian Fortress harbour front caters (Fortetza) almost exclusively Built in 1573, this impo- for tourists. Head for sing stronghold – one the quiet alleys of of the largest Venetian the old quarter for castles ever built – broods cheaper, less crowd- on a headland above the Rethymno’s inner harbour ed and often more town. It has four sturdy authentically Cretan bastions and three gates. Within the walls, the most Nerandzes restaurants. £ interesting building is the Mosque (Odeion) Ibrahim Han Mosque Rising above the old town’s Map F3 • Rethymno (below), originally the Ven- rooftops, the pointed minaret Tourist Information etian Cathedral (see p40). of the 17th-century Nerandzes Office, Sofokli Venizelou Mosque is a 28310 29148 • 8am– prominent land- 2:30pm Mon–Fri mark of Rethymno. • Fortress 8:30am–8pm It is now a music daily in summer (last college. Once a entry: 7:15pm); for win- Latin church, it ter hours, call the tourist was converted office • Adm €4; family into a mosque ticket €10; over 65s €3; by the Turks, who children, students and replaced the roof disabled visitors free with cupolas and • Museums Tue–Sun the bell tower with a minaret.

22 For a morning’s itinerary in Rethymno See pp94–5 Crete’s Top 10 23 -

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starts just (above) Beach town Rethymno’s air cafés and restaurants. air cafés ) continuous chain of open- continuous chain 1990s, and an almost and an almost 1990s, esplanade lined with esplanade lined with palm trees planted in the breakwater and stretches and stretches breakwater it is an eastward. Behind beach beach east of the main harbour east of the main harbour Rimondi Fountain an orfrom flows Water numerous public fountains. endowed various cities with cities with various endowed Both Venetians and Turks Turks Venetians and Both earlier, simpler water source. source. simpler water earlier, families on the site of an of an on the site families one of Rethymno’s patrician patrician one of Rethymno’s nate fountain, built in 1626 by by built in 1626 nate fountain, % and Roman sites sites and Roman (left; see p36). (left; - from Neolithic, Minoan from Neolithic,

Venetian Gate Gate Venetian Guora) (Porta Inner Harbour small inner har- The Rethymno Rethymno Museum Archaeological

dismantled to provide dismantled to provide access. vehicle better the city. Other gates were Other gates were the city. a busy quayside. picturesque old quarter old quarter picturesque into the modern part of ramshackle old houses, old houses, ramshackle and small boats at anchor gate, leading from the gate, leading from the turesque in Greece, with in Greece, with turesque tions is an arched stone stone tions is an arched city’s Venetian Venetian fortifica city’s gical museum’s displays include finds include finds displays gical museum’s in a converted bastion (part of the fortifica- bastion (part in a converted is one of the most pic- The only remnant of the only remnant of the The ( *

tions added by the Turks), the archaeolo- Turks), the tions added by $ of the fortress, the main gate Opposite bour, below the fortress, the fortress, below bour, 24 Crete’s Top 10 Phaestos tobecometheleadingCretancity. defeateditsrival In the2ndcenturyBC,Gortys inthe6thcenturyBC. of theDoriancity-states Minoans, butflourishedlaterduringtheperiod as impressive.Itwasprobablyfirstsettledbythe top archaeologicalattractions,thoughitisjust ded bytrees,islesscrowdedthanCrete’sother Crete’s Minoanpalaces.Thelargesite,surroun- Messara plain,datefromamuchlatererathan inthemiddleoffertile The ruinsofGortys, The Nymphaeum concessions €2 • 8:30am–3pm daily daily; winter: • • mile) from Agioi Deka Map J5 Adm €4; Adm Summer:8am–8pm 2892031144 and ahistoric church. pleasant tavernas there are several Agioi Deka, where nearby village of Gortys, headfor the site cafeteria at rather spartan on- Instead ofusingthe a finesandybeach. Gortys, which has (20 miles)eastof to Matala, 30km overnight stop, drive afternoon swimoran to Gortys withan To combineyour visit Gortys • 1km(halfa Share your travelrecommendations on 2 1 Top 10 Sights 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 of thetree-aisledbasilica The impressive remains ! Christianity wasChristianity already (above) well onthe established island by the5th century, when thebasilicawas built. Itisnamedafter tTts(go io) (Agios Titos), St Titus who accompaniedSt Paul the Apostle toCretein AD 59andbecamethe first bishopofCrete. Acropolis (Kastro) Roman Agora Roman Amphitheatre Museum Temple ofIsisandSerapis Roman Baths Temple ofPythian Apollo Praetorium Roman Odeionand Basilica of Agios Titos Code ofLaws Agios Titos Basilica of indicatethat traveldk.com Built intothewalls ofa @ £ Roman odeionarestone slabs inscribedwithacode of laws (above) about 500BC. This isregar- ded asGortys’ mostsignifi- cant archaeological feature. of marblecolumns(above) are allthatremainofthe palace oftheRoman gover- ed into aChristianchurch nor ofCreteandLibya. in the 2nd century in the2ndcentury AD. addedintheHellen- altar tal istic periodandwas convert- BC,Built inthe7thcentury $ the templehadamonumen- Pythian Apollo Temple of A courtyardandstumps Praetorium Code ofLaws Roman Odeionand , datingfrom Crete’s Top 10 25 8 34 6 5 Plan of the site Plan of is surprisingly is surprisingly 2 9 1 Roman Amphitheatre its inhabitants in 824. finally abandoned by finally abandoned by 7th century AD. It was It was AD. 7th century invaders in the late invaders Byzantine empire, it Saracen by sacked was the weakening of the the weakening an important Byzantine hub until, with provincial (modern Libya). It (modern Libya). continued to flourish as of Crete and Cyrene of Crete and Cyrene Gortys became capital province of the Roman Byzantine Gortys the Roman After conquest of 65 BC, 7 or gladiatorial combat. venue for drama, oratory for venue to imagine it in use as a to imagine it in use as a preserved and it is easy stone seats are well stone seats are well Gortys, but its tiers of Gortys, but its tiers of as important as Roman as important as Roman * amphitheatre Roman The (above) a settlement small for 0 . Museum A collec- and a and a (below) . (see pp14–15) & (above) tion of marble marble tion of statuary unearthed at Gortys is on display in in is on display a small pavilion on on a small pavilion Acropolis (Kastro) Acropolis Outside the main and the countryside. ) bird’s-eye view of Gortys of Gortys view bird’s-eye hilltop. Come here for a a hilltop. Come here for the Kastro (“castle”) the Kastro (“castle”) stand guard on a low small tower, known as as known small tower, site, formidable Roman Roman site, formidable ramparts emperors and Roman emperors and Roman notables cludes images of gods, cludes images of gods, Irakleio Archaeological Irakleio Archaeological Museum The on-site collection in- on-site collection The finds are held at the at the finds are held of the more impressive of the more impressive the site, though many many the site, though

An impressive statue statue An impressive Roman Agora Temple of Isis of Isis Temple and Serapis Remnants of the the of Remnants Roman Baths Roman

Greco-Roman city. Greco-Roman heart of any ancient ancient heart of any or marketplace, was the the was or marketplace, to the Egyptian deities. Roman Agora. The The agora, Agora. Roman among olive groves groves among olive south of the Praetorium. of this temple dedicated of this temple dedicated Archaeological Museum), Museum), Archaeological at the discovered was city, can be seen city, can be seen shown by the remains the remains by shown Asklepios (now in Irakleio in Irakleio (now Asklepios hub of the Roman hub of the Roman with ancient Egypt, as with ancient Egypt, as of the god of healing,

baths, which would would which baths, been a social have ( Ancient Crete had links Ancient Crete had links ^ % 26 Crete’s Top 10 the narrow Sideresportes or“IronGates”.the narrowSideresportes little villageofAgia Roumeliafterpassingthrough sealevel,itemergesonthecoastcloseto above wildflower meadows.Beginning1,250m(4,100 ft) sidesofthegorge,flankedbypinewoodsand both inGreece.Peaks soaronareas ofnaturalbeauty Plateau totheLibyanSea,isoneofmoststriking Lefka Ori(WhiteMountains)fromtheOmalos The SamariaGorge,whichcutsitswaythroughthe Wild goat • you leave Agia Roumeli gate as you musthandinatthe ticket,stamped which • 91254 Agia Roumeli 28250 • Xyloskalo 28210 67179 • to check) 7am–4pmdaily permitting –phonefirst May–mid-Oct (weather MapC4 Keep your date- Forest Guardhouse, Forest Guardhouse, your recuperation. are smalltavernas for Agia Roumelithere in theshade, andat where you canpicnic designated rest areas per person. There are – atleastonelitre Take plentyofwater the day insummer. in thehottest part of at leastanhour. Rest including abreak of is bestto allow eight, in aboutfive hours, it 17-km (11-mile) trek can complete the Though fitwalkers • Samaria Gorge Adm €5 Adm • Gorgeopen 2 1 Top 10 Sights 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 ! through thegorgeis called theXyloskalo. The toughest partplummets a breathtaking 1,000ma breathtaking the way. the woods along cypress pine and ing through (1 mile),pass- than 2km little more (3,300 ft) in Agios Pavlos Beach New Agia Roumeli Tarra (Old Agia Roumeli) Sideresportes Osia Maria Samaria Church of Agios Nikolaos Neroutsiko –RizaSikias Gigilosand Volakia Peaks Xyloskalo The zig-zagpathdown Xyloskalo Not far fromthe foot ofthe $ The springsofNeroutsiko £ and RizaSikiasmeetat the foot oftheXyloskalo. In winterthey form afierce torrent thatmakes the gorge impassable,butin summer they dry toatrickle.summer they dry Nikolaos Church of Agios Riza Sikias Neroutsiko and Above theXyloskaloto @ the west, theskyline is dominatedby the covered well intoearly may remainsnow These mountaintops Gingilos and Volakia. massive peaksof level arescorching. temperatures atsea summer whenthe Volakia Peaks Gigilos and in theshadeof Nikolaos stands chapel of Agios tiny, roughlybuilt the springs, Xyloskalo and trees, next toan pine andcypress official restarea. Crete’s Top 10 27 2 7 8 6 90 5 Plan of the Gorge Plan of 4 Sideresportes Near the shrine of Sfakion and Sougia. Sfakion run daily to Chora run stretch of coast, ferries of coast, ferries stretch no roads service this Agia Roumeli, and while Roumeli, Agia are many guesthouses inare many Guardhouse at Xyloskalo There out. setting before mile) from Xyloskalo. Independent walkers must report to the Forest Omalos, 1 km (half a buses from Chania to There are also regularThere which include transport which to and from the gorge. Getting Around tour companies Several walks, daily escorted run 3 700 m (over 2,000 ft). 700 m (over rocky walls that rise that rise walls rocky (9 ft) of space separating of space separating (9 ft) Afendis Christos, the the Christos, Afendis to just 3 m gorge narrows & 1 Agios Pavlos Pavlos Agios Beach dedicated to St Paul. the tiny chapel here here chapel the tiny long, uncrowded long, uncrowded of pebbles. stretch It is named after Roumeli, Agios Agios Roumeli, is a beach Pavlos ) Agia east of Just New Agia New Agia Roumeli Osia Maria steep by Dwarfed guesthouses spread out guesthouses spread out along a single street. string of tavernas and and string of tavernas since grown into a cheerful into a cheerful since grown sea. The new village has village has new The sea. on a new location by the the location by on a new Roumeli abandoned their abandoned their Roumeli intent village in the 1960s, ( Agia inhabitants of The and to the gorge itself. the village of Samaria the village of Samaria ^ 14th-century frescoes frescoes 14th-century and lends its name to of Osia Maria contains of Osia Maria cliffs, the small church the small church cliffs, -

Tarra (Old Agia Agia (Old Tarra Roumeli) Samaria in dwellers last The

city state of Tarra. city state of of the small Hellenistic of the small Hellenistic cottages have become become have cottages more derelict. ever Agia Roumeli. Below Below Roumeli. Agia lies the site these ruins national park. The ghostly ghostly The national park. cottages are all that re cottages main of the old village of main of the old village of area was designated a a designated area was and a few tumbledown tumbledown and a few village in 1962 when the the when village in 1962 a ruined Venetian church church Venetian a ruined the gorge abandoned this this the gorge abandoned A crumbling Turkish fort, fort, Turkish A crumbling * % 28 Crete’s Top 10 retaliation forattacksbyCretanguerrillas. of itsvillagesweredestroyed bytheGermansin Cretan resistancestruggleinWorld many War II, ofthe wealthiest regionsinCrete.Aheartland slopes, andintheByzantineerawasamong thanks totopsoilwashedfromthesurrounding vineyards. Thisuplandregionissurprisinglyfertile, more than700 yearsold–andolivegroves and dotted withtinyvillagechurches–someofthem of MtIdi,isonethemostscenicregionsinCrete, The remoteAmariValley, overlooked bythesummit Panagia at Thronas Map G–H4 • Venizelou, Rethymno Organization, Sofokli National Tourism 28310 29148 per person). at dawn (€50 Psiloritis summit participants to the Another walk takes (28330 22760). village in Thronos Lamvros Papoutsakis organized by Amariare Valley person) around the walks (€30per and herb-gathering Guided fossil-hunting change money. where you can and apostofﬁce ernas, rooms to rent There are several tav- mountains onfoot. ley andsur for exploring theval- Amari isthebestbase The AmariValley andMtIdi Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter on • Greek ounding 1 Top 10 Sights 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 (8,060-ft) peakof MtIdi, remote valley, the2,456-m Towering above the ! and Psiloritis, also calledIda (see p53)leadto walking trails Crete. Marked in mountain is thehighest 23 km(14 miles) the NidaPlateau, the summitfrom Anogeia by roadfrom Fourfouras Agios Ioannis Theologos Moni Asomaton Thronos The MemorialtoPeace Hromonastiri Kamares Cave Amari Village Idaian Cave MtIdi(Psiloritis)Summit Summit Mt Idi(Psiloritis) village. traveldk.com myth, Zeus,chief ofthe Olympian gods,was raised in thisenormouscavern (below), 20minutes’ walk from theNidaPlateau.In @ ancient timesthiswas a According toGreek Idaian Cave near Amari village near Amari at Agia Anna,Fresco place ofpilgrim- in the8thcentu- offerings to Zeus were left as shields, which such asbronze age. Artifacts ry BC,arein the ry open daily. The cavern is logical Museum. Irakleio Archaeo- =RQLDQD Amari Village £ $QRJHLD 7KURQRV A Venetian * E J 0 S clocktower (right) on 0RQL P T $VRPDWRQ the main square is one .U*EJ $PDUL *EBJBO $BWF of the older buildings in )RXUIRXUDV

the valley. Just outside .XUXWH Crete’s Top 10 the village, some of $JLRV ,BNBSFT 1LWDYULV $BWF Crete’s oldest Christian ,RDQQLV 9RUL]LD frescoes, dated 1225, 3ODWDQRV .DPDUHV are in Agia Anna church. $ Kamares Cave % Hromonastiri This cave, where remarkable Minoan The church of Agios Eftihios, outside pottery known as Kamares ware was the village of Hromonastiri, contains faded discovered, is a four-hour trek from frescoes, dating from the 11th century, Kamares village. This sacred site was which may be the oldest dedicated to the goddess Eileithyia. of their kind in Crete.

^ The Memorial to Peace German artist Karen Raeck’s work, to the north of the Nida Plateau, is a winged ﬁgure outlined in huge natural stone boulders (above). & Thronos The 14th-century church of the Panagia at Thronos contains striking frescoes and traces of * Moni ancient mosaics. Nearby Asomaton are the ruins of a Hellen- The monastery of istic city, Sivritis. Asomaton (left), built in the Venetian era, Getting Around is now deserted and spooky. It stands in a the Valley fertile oasis of plane Though the Amari Valley trees, palms and feels remote, there are eucalyptus. three buses daily from Rethymno to the two ( Agios Ioannis ) Fourfouras largest villages, Thronos Theologos A pretty village set in and Amari. With a hired The church of St John stunning mountain scen- car, it is possible to the Divine, built in the ery, Fourfouras is one of drive up one side of the 13th century, stands by the jumping-off spots for Amari Valley and down the road just north of the ascent of Mt Idi and the other. Of the two Kardaki village. The ﬁne some of the less chal- roads, the eastern route frescoes were painted lenging hikes on the is the most spectacular. in 1347. Psiloritis massif.

29 30 Crete’s Top 10 The honeycombofruinsstandsonlywaisthigh. destroyed byearthquakeandﬁrearound1450BC. Palace Period.LikeotherMinoansettlements,itwas the survivingbuildingsdatefromlaterSecond oldest sites,inhabitedfromaround3000BC,though of Cretanvillagestothisday.Itisalsoonethe streets andtinyhouses,issurprisinglysimilartothat receives fewvisitors.Itslayout,withnarrowstepped best preservedMinoantowninCrete,thoughit Boyd Hawesbetween1901and1904,Gourniaisthe Unearthed bytheAmericanarchaeologistHarriet Nikolaos (11 miles)eastof Agios coast road,18 km Map N5 Tue–Sun 93028 Remains ofworkshops on itswaterfront. string ofrestaurants (2 miles)east, hasa Pachia Ammos, 3km eat atGournia. There isnowhere to unappealing. coast) are dirty and along thisstretch of Gournia (like most beaches near Unfortunately, the • Gournia 8:30am–3pm • • • Southof 28420 Adm €2.00 Adm @ that risesfromthe courtyard tothecentral court ofthepalaceis palaces. The designof it characteristic ofMinoan monial stairs foundmonial stairs in echoes similarcere- palace siteinCrete. virtually every Minoan have beenthehubof courtyard (below) would settlement andmay have of thesiteanexpansive been thetown’s market. It was probablyalsoused for ceremonialpurposes. ! 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Sights Courtyard Wash Basins Bronzesmith’s Workshop Potter’s Workshop Carpenter’s Workshop Shrine Storerooms Palace CentralPalace Court Stairway The L-shaped stair Stairway At thesouthernend Courtyard (below) ashisaudiencehall. Access tothecentralcourt £ of thepalacefromcourt- nial staircase. nial staircase. The Minoan yard below isby theceremo- ruler ofGourniamay well have usedthisantechamber to thesmallpalacebuilding Court Central Palace Stairway

Crete’s Top 10 31 . 9 (see pp14–15) 1 8 Plan of the site Plan of 2 Carpenter’s Carpenter’s Workshop Shrine A cobbled, mosaic- 7 5 Minoan civilization. after the collapse of after Greek settlers who Greek settlers occupied the island long used by the much later the much used by by which they are known are known they which by stem from words today their cities. The names The their cities. knowing what the knowing Minoans called most of Lost Names Although some Minoan been deci- scripts have phered, archaeologists of no way still have premises with his family. woodworker who may who may woodworker on the lived also have was used by a a used by was building indicate that it building indicate that it thriving, self-contained community, and tools and other materials in this small found & clearly a Gournia was 3 Irakleio Archaeological Irakleio Archaeological ^ now displayed in the in the displayed now The terracotta goddess goddess terracotta The are ﬁgurines and snake to contain cult objects. shrine, which was found found was shrine, which decorated path leads decorated path leads steeply up to a small Museum 6 4 in gournes in Wash Basins Wash stone crude The Storerooms the Adjoining ) lost site when it was lost site when it was known as known their name to the long their name to the long washing basins found basins found washing outside almost every building in Gournia are modern Greek. They gave They modern Greek. rediscovered. earthenware jars. jars. earthenware essentials would essentials would in kept been have palace are store- , or rooms (left) magazines, where grain, oil and other % * (right). The slowly run down. down. run slowly Clay fragments fragments Clay

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and other buildings indi- ly abandoned rather than ly abandoned rather than Potter’s Workshop Potter’s centre of the palace is a sacriﬁcial altar. centre of the important Minoan royal palaces. In the In the palaces. important Minoan royal Knosos, is a miniature version of the more of the more version Knosos, is a miniature

Gournia on behalf of the Minoan ruler of of of the Minoan ruler Gournia on behalf $ dwelling place of a governor who ruled who ruled of a governor place dwelling Archaeological Museum. Archaeological smelting bronze. Tools, Tools, smelting bronze. utensils and weapons, objects from votive Gournia are at Irakleio suggest a smithy used in used in suggest a smithy

and a simple stone anvil and a simple stone anvil ( nails and scraps, Bronze cate Gournia was sudden- cate Gournia was ter’s workshop ter’s Left Turkish and Egyptian forces in 1896 Right Venetian fortress Moments in History

1750 BC: Golden Age the Byzantine Emperor is ! of Minoan Culture deposed by an army of Crete is the centre of the Frankish crusaders in alliance Minoan civilization, which is with Venice. Cretans rebel marked by the building of against the Venetians, but Crete’s Top 10 Knosos and other palaces. without success. Mycenaeans take over Knosos in 1450 BC. The Turks % Chania and Rethymno Roman Conquest quickly fall to an attack by @ The first Roman Turks in 1645. Venetian invasion of Crete in 71 BC is sea-power enables the repulsed by the Dorian Venetian capital of Candia Greeks, but a second attack Cretan statue (modern Irakleio) to resist a in 69 BC succeeds. Some of Hadrian 21-year siege, but Venice Cretan cities side with the finally surrenders in 1669. invaders, and by 67 BC Crete is The Cretans rise too against the firmly in Roman hands. Turks. The first major rebellion begins in 1770 in mountainous Byzantine Reconquest Sfakia and is led by Ioannis £ The Byzantine Empire loses Daskalogiannis. It ends badly, Crete to Arab invaders in AD 824. however, with Sfakia conquered. The Emperor Nikiforas Fokas reconquers the island in 961. War of Independence ^ In 1821 a nationwide rising Venetian Rule in mainland Greece flares into a $ Crete falls into Venetian full-scale and eventually hands after 1204, when the successful War of Independence. Fourth Crusade goes awry and In Crete, Chatzimichalis Dalianis

Painting by Jan Peeters, said to be of the Siege of Candia in the 17th century

32 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Crete’s Top 10 33 Arab Conquest Arab In AD Arab 824–961 Empire Venetian of the Republic In 1204 Empire Ottoman Turks Ottoman The Kingdom of the Hellenes The Dorians Dorian Greeks from nor- City States Dorian Gortys and Kidonia Roman Empire had sided Gortys (which Byzantine Empire AD In the 4th century Minoan Empires civilization Minoan The Mycenaeans from Greeks Myceanean ) united with Greece Crete was 30,000 1923, In in 1913. Muslim Cretans were from Crete. expelled & * ( # $ % ^ Top 10 Empires and Empires Top 10 Governments ! @ forces led by Byzantine Byzantine led by forces general Nicephoros Phokas Crete. (see p56) overturned took control of Crete Venice islands. Aegean and the Crete in strength in invaded and held the island until 1645 century. the end of the 19th thern Greece arrived in the in the thern Greece arrived century BC, driving the 12th descendants of the Minoans into remote areas. among (modern Chania) were the most powerful. became capital with Rome) of of Crete and the province (modern Libya). Cyrene Crete became part of the Byzantine realm. emerged between 3000 and 3000 and emerged between explosion A volcanic BC. 1900 the Min- destroyed have may BC. 1450 oan cities around in Crete the mainland settled BC. 1450 after (enosis) with Greece. Occupation and Liberation Occupation and Liberation War II in World Union with Greece Venizelos Eleftherios In 1905 Great Powers Intervene Powers Great risings in the last Several 1866: Another 1866: Rebellion Turks Against

– a minister in Prince George’s George’s – a minister in Prince of Crete – calls for governorship and in 1908 a nationalist revolution declares Assembly the Cretan union decades of the 19th century century decades of the 19th culminate in the landing of Greek and international troops in 1897 intervention. German forces drive the Allies Allies the drive German forces but 1941, out of Crete in May Cretan continue to guerrillas resist. Most German troops ﬂee Allied as 1944 Greece in autumn at troops land, but the garrison Chania holds out until the end of 1945. May in the war ) (

& these heroic fail- Undaunted by 1866, ures, Crete rises again in with a self-appointed Cretan declaring independ- Assembly ence and union with Greece. in Egyptian bring Turks The but in troops to quell the rebels, Europe there is growing the Cretan for cause. sympathy and fewer than 400 rebels raise raise than 400 rebels and fewer the Greek banner at Frango- are kastello, where they Crete besieged and slaughtered. yoke. Turkish remains under the German troops in 1941 troops German 34 Crete’s Top 10 palace, datesfromtheearly a Roman provincial governor’s with basilicaandremnantsof scientists (seepp20–21). Phaestos Discstillpuzzle BC. Hieroglyphicsontheclay Phaestos, builtaround1600 site oftheSecondPalace at and courtyardsmarksthe Knosos. A maze ofwalls second onlytothoseat south coastofCrete,are tos, onahilltopby the Minoan palaceatPhaes- (seepp8–11)century . covered untilthelate19th around 1450 BCandnotredis- probably by avolcanic eruption, 3,500 years, itwas destroyed, Crete. Datingback morethan ancient Minoanpalaceruins on is by far themoststrikingof ! Left Phaestos £ @ Bullfresco, Knosos The ruined ofGortys, city Gortys The ruins ofthe Phaestos Just outsideIrakleio,Knosos Knosos Ancient Sites

Right Gortys Giant pot, Malia interesting contrastwiththe rooﬂess stonewalls, makes an town ofGournia,amaze of at leisure(seepp24–5). uncrowded, soitcanbeexplored over awidearea,andisusually Christian era. The siteextends $ settlers, whobuilta later occupiedby Mycenaean about 1700 BC. The sitewas this siteofaMinoanvilla,built script, hasbeendiscovered on undeciphered MinoanLinear A inscribed withthestill relics, including tablets relics, includingtablets The well-preservedMinoan Gournia better-known Minoanpalac- palace (seepp30–31). es. This was aworking % surrounding asmall community, andarchaeol-community, alongside tiny houses smiths andcarpenters shops usedby potters, ogists discovered work- Agia Triada A treasury ofMinoan A treasury ^ axe symbol, or The Minoan double- of thesamename. archaeol resort ofMaliaisan summer holiday shops (seep81). row ofporticoed village withaunique (chief’s hall)anda East ofthebusy Malia ogical site megaron

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* & labrys , is carved two pillars into forms of a small shrine, which palace part of the remains of a BC. Excava- dating circa 1600 the tions are still going on near palace site.

36 Crete’s Top 10 • Disabledaccess Adm • 28210 90334•8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun Gardens, Irakleio Archaeological Museum @ expanded (seepp14–15). ized, modernized and currently beingreorgan- Itscollectionisvisiting. Crete, andwell worth The largestmuseumin ! Left symbols oftheMinoanLinear A clay inscribedwiththe tablets uncovered in1961. They include on Crete’s eastcoast,which was from thepalacesiteatZakros, The exhibits mostimportant are £ sites inwestern Crete. jewellery found atarchaeological marble sculpture, pottery and ﬁnds, HellenisticandRoman museum ispacked withMinoan then a Turkish mosque,the which was ﬁrsta Venetian church Housed inahistoricbuilding ChaniaMuseum Museum Siteia Archaeological ogical Museum Chania Archaeol- ogical Museum Irakleio Archaeol- Art andArchaeologicalMuseums Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter on

Centre Siteia Museum d MapD2 Archaeological Museum Statue from Rethymno

Right Agios Nikolaos Museaum • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm • Cheimarras, Fortetza •28310 54668 cemetery sites. cemetery burial goodsfound inMinoan burial caskets, or the highlightsarelateMinoan the Rethymno region. Among sites, caves andcemeteriesin with findsfrom Minoan andHellenisticeras, museum’s proudestexhibit. the GoddessofMirtos, isthis Age siteat Korifi andknown as female figure,found attheBronze A juginthestylizedshapeofa ^ d Crete’s complex history. on anoften ignoredchapter in andshedslight Byzantine history collection spans1,000years of to Chania’s harbourfortress. The to visitthissmallmuseumnext iconsisthebestreasonCretan The finecollectionofbeautiful % • Adm • 28210 96046•8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun MapD2•82 Theotokopoulou script, aswell asbronze tools Archaeological Museum Agios Nikolaos of Chania Byzantine Collection and kitchen utensils. Q4 •Fiskokefalou 3•2843023917 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm $ traveldk.com In aconverted bastion built by collection extends from the Stone Age tothe ogical Museum Rethymno Archaeol- archaeological the Turks, thethe Turks, d larnakes, and MapF3

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This 15th-century Venetian Venetian 15th-century This Greco – where both El church and the great icon painter said Damaskinos are Michailis learned their skills – to have best array contains the world’s collection The of Cretan icons. includes three superb works Damaskinos. by & d clay Minoan Minoan clay decorated cofﬁns with paintings, of good examples and pottery Vasiliki worked some ﬁnely gold jewellery. Else 74 • 28410 24943 • 8:30am– • 28410 74 3pm Tue–Sun • Adm of Agia Ekaterini, Plateia Ag. Ekaterini Ekaterini, Plateia Agia of Tue, • 9am–1:30pm Mon–Sat, 5–7pm Adm • Fri Thu, Left Cretan weaving Centre Cretan House Folklore Museum Right Gavalochori Historical Museum Folklore Museums

Lychnostatis or two. It takes as its ! Open Air Museum theme the history of of Folk Culture Crete and its people, Traditional Cretan ways with exhibits which focus of life that lasted for on how living on Europe’s Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top centuries only began to border with Africa has die out in recent decades. inﬂuenced events in the This open-air museum past. d Centre of village gives some insight into • Map B4 • 28230 42265 • 9am– life on the island before Lychnostatis Open 1pm, 6:30–8:30pm daily • Adm tourism, TVs and mobile Air Museum phones. Exhibits include Museum of Cretan a windmill and an old stone $ Ethnology, Vori cottage. d Chersonisos • Map L4 Excellent collection which gives • 28970 23660 • 9am–2pm Sun–Fri • Adm real insight into the hard life of Cretan villagers in years gone by. Historical and Folk Art For example, there are displays @ Museum, Rethymno on how wild foods – from A small museum housed in a dandelions to snails – featured in Venetian mansion displays relics their diet! d Vori • Map H5 • 28920 of a vanished way of life, inclu- 91110 • Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; ding colourful woven artifacts, lace, Nov–Mar: 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm silver jewellery and ceramics. d Vernardou 30 • Map F3 • 28310 23398 % Museum Papa Michalis • 10am–2:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm Georgoulakis, Asomatos The late priest Papa Michalis Museum of History, began his collection at age 15. £ Paleochora This museum houses an eclectic This small museum in the centre range of items illustrating Cretan of Paleochora provides a fasci- life in the last century. d Asomatos nating way to spend an hour • Map F4 • 28320 31158 • Summer: 10am–3pm daily • Adm

Agios Nikolaos ^ Folklore Museum Overlooking Agios Nikolaos’s lagoon-like inner harbour, the Folklore Museum houses colourful textiles and costumes, plus farming and ﬁshing equipment. d Kondilaki 2 • Map N4 • 28410 25093 • 9:30am–1:30pm, 5–9pm Historical and Folk Art Museum, Rethymno Sun–Fri • Adm 38 Crete’s Top 10 39 lace is lace is kopaneli and (see pp60–61) and Antique Weapons CretanThe pallikar (warrior- Wood Carving Wood cypress and mul- Olive, Leatherwork Everything from shep- Silversmithing jewellery and Silver Lace Silk Older village women still still Older village women Musical Instruments Crete has a strong tradi- Embroidery Church monks Orthodox Crete’s Weaving are hand looms Traditional Embroidery a major was Rethymno Spinning ) ^ & * ( # $ % Traditional Crafts Traditional ! @ hero) loved highly decorated highly decorated hero) loved Authentic antique weapons. are highly valued. weapons herds’ boots and mule har- herds’ handbags nesses to satchels, and sheepskin garments. a bobbin weaving, made by in Gavalochori. skill revived spin wool into yarn using a using a into yarn spin wool – a skill spindle and distaff since changed that hasn’t the time of the Minoans. and nuns embellish sumptu- with vestments ous church and silk stitching. gold, silver still in use, made by skilled skilled by still in use, made from cypress, craftsmen or mulberrywalnut wood. embroidery, centre for a skill introduced to Crete in the Byzantine era. berry yield a hard wood loved berry loved yield a hard wood skilled Cretanby carpenters. as religious objects such icon frames and cruciﬁxes. tion of making musical instruments the places still make many lyra, a three-stringed violin, and the laouta (mandolin). Arolithos d Arolithos Arolithos Museum This museum museum This with a is linked village holiday Popular Art Popular & of Agricultural of Agricultural and History Gavalochori village • Map E3 village Gavalochori d (see p99) Historical and Folklore and Folklore Historical Museum of Gavalochori Folklore and Martial and Martial Folklore Somatas Museum, Cretan House Folklore House Folklore Cretan Chania Museum,

Somatas, Rethymno • Map F3 Somatas, Rethymno 46B Chalidon • Map D2 • 28210 91110 91110 46B Chalidon • Map D2 • 28210 village, 8 km west of Irakleio on old of village, 8 km west 21050 • Map J4 • 28108 highway Adm • • 9am–5pm Sun–Fri which tries to give its guests a guests a its give tries to which taste of traditional Cretan life, who use workers with craft traditional methods, a restaurant and bakery wood-burning with music and and live ovens, dancing in the evening.

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) is small museum excellent This Venetian-Turkish housed in an old mansion and depicts the history of the village. High- and culture as lights include local skills such silk spinning, masonry and car- pentry.

( A quirky, two-room museum tools, with a collection of farm early radios and household items med- in one room, and weapons, and memorabilia als, uniforms II in the other. War World from Opening hours can be erratic.

* looms and spinning Traditional wall coloured rugs, wheels, richly hangings and embroidery can be delightful place. at this found Folklore Museum, Museum, Folklore Anogeia • 28310 41315 • 9am–6pm daily • Free • 9am–6pm daily • Free 41315 • 28310 but donation welcomed • 9am–3pm, 6–9pm Mon–Sat • Adm • 9am–3pm, 6–9pm Mon–Sat • Left Rethymno Centre Spinalonga Right Aptera Venetian and Turkish Castles

Rethymno Spinalonga ! The massive fortress that £ A formidable island fortress dominates Rethymno’s harbour built in 1579 to command the was built by the Venetians with entrance to the Gulf of Mirabello. sloping walls to better deﬂect Venice managed to hang on to Crete’s Top 10 the Ottoman Empire’s it even after the surrender of gigantic cannon. But it Candia (Irakleio) in 1669, proved no match for the and gave it up only by military ingenuity of the treaty in 1715. After Turks, and fell after a short Turkish withdrawal, it was siege. Ironically, it became used for a time as a leper a far more successful colony (see pp104–105). stronghold for the Turkish Ottomans (see also p22). Frangokastello bust Chania $ The Venetians lost Frangokastello Chania to their arch-rivals, the @ The Venetians built this Genoese, in 1263. They regained romantic coastal fortress to defend it 22 years later, and set about the south coast from Saracen making the town impregnable, pirates. In 1821 it was occupied starting with walls around the hill by a small force of Cretan rebels, above the harbour in the district holding out against a vastly greater still known as Kastelli (the Turkish army. The rebels were castle). Further walls followed, defeated of course, but, accord- but though they may have ing to legend, once a year their deterred occasional pirate raids, ghosts appear from the sea to they proved ineffective when the reclaim the ruined castle (see Turks assailed the city in 1645. pp59 & 92). d Map E4 d Map D2

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* the overgrown, much Though standing dilapidated walls among orange and lemon trees are still the castle was The impressive. massacre, scene of a famous when the Cretan rebel leader & On a hilltop above Paleokastro, a a Paleokastro, On a hilltop above shares the peak keep Venetian of the Hellenistic with the ruins thrived which city of Polyrinia, of the until the Saracen invasion Stone from Hellenistic 9th century. old years buildings, already 1,000 arrived, Venetians when the been incorporated seems to have into the castle walls. ^ % Left Panagia Kera Centre Moni Arkadiou Right Moni Agia Triada Churches and Monasteries

Moni Arkadiou and cloisters, and a church that ! Though founded in the 5th houses one of the greatest Cretan century, most of the monastic works of religious art, the icon buildings here date from the Lord, Thou Art Great by Ioannis 16th century. Moni Arkadiou has Kornaros. d Map Q4 • 28430 61226 Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top a special significance for Cretans. • 9am–1pm, 2–6pm daily • Adm During the great revolt of 1866, the monastery – crowded with Moni Agia Triada refugees as well as Cretan $ The Monastery of the Holy freedom fighters – was besieged Trinity stands among its own by the Turks. Rather than olive groves, and although its surrender, the rebel defenders monastic community has dwindled blew up their gunpowder stores, to just a few members, its lovely killing themselves and many of old buildings are gradually being their enemies. d Map G4 • 28310 restored. Visitors are welcome, 83076 • 9am–7pm daily • Adm and the monks will happily sell you some of their home-grown @ Panagia Kera olive oil, which is of high quality. The most important d Map D2 • 28210 63310 • 8am–4pm Byzantine-era church in Crete, Mon–Fri • Adm Panagia Kera, was built in the 13th and 14th centuries. The Moni Gouverneto church is dedicated to the Virgin % Only three elderly monks and to saints Anthony and Anna, remain in this isolated monas- and is adorned with expressive tery, deep in the wilds of the murals depicting the two saints, bleak and barren Akrotiri Penin- as well as 14 scenes portraying sula. The building encloses a the secret life of the Virgin Mary tranquil courtyard, in which after Christ’s Crucifixion and stands a small chapel with some Resurrection. d Map N5 • 28410 of the oldest frescoes in Crete. 51525 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm d Map D2 • 28210 63319 • 9am– noon, 5–7pm Mon, Tue, Thu; 9am– £ Moni Toplou noon, 5–8pm Sat; 5–11am, The Toplou monastery’s 5–8pm Sun • Adm forbidding exterior is deceptive, for like many Moni Preveli Greek monasteries it ^ Built during was fortified against the 17th century bandits during the to replace a more Middle Ages. Inside, remote monastery however, is a different building, Moni world of serene, Preveli’s peaceful flower-filled courtyards Moni Toplou dormitories and 42 Crete’s Top 10 43 9DL 6LNHD Map C2 Map C2 6LWHLD d • 8am–noon, • 8am–noon, 125 125 ,HUDSHWUD $JLRV 1LNRODRV Moni Katholikou 1HDSROLV

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* & cloisters look inward, onto an cloisters look inward, century courtyard with a 18th- and a small church 19th-century lavish- museum. Exhibits include church ly ornamented vestments, and icons. silver Moni Preveli Left Plakias Centre Paleochora Right Agia Galini Beach Resorts

Georgioupoli double strip of hotels, apartment ! At the mouth of a river, 20 km complexes, bars, restaurants, (13 miles) west of Rethymno, dance clubs and shops. Catering lies Georgioupoli. It’s a quiet mainly to package holidaymakers, resort, the hub of the village it has now almost merged with Crete’s Top 10 provided by a taverna- and café- the neighbouring resorts of lined square shaded by plane Stalida and Malia. d Map L3 trees. Georgioupoli’s hotel and self-catering accommodation is Plakias spread out along an expansive $ A huge sweep of clean grey sandy beach. d Map E3 sand draws visitors to this little south-coast resort, but there are even better beaches nearby at Damnoni, which can be reached by boat or on foot. Plakias is one of the island’s quieter beach resorts, and its accommodation mostly takes the form of self- catering apartments. d Map F4

Cave shrine, Malia Matala % Matala’s coves of ﬁne golden Malia sand, surrounded by rocky red @ With its great sandy beach cliffs harbouring Roman cave- and close proximity to Irakleio tombs, made the place a magnet International Airport, Malia was for hippy travellers in the 1960s. destined to become one of the Its tourism is more orthodox now, island’s liveliest package holiday but Matala is still pleasantly low- resorts. In July and August it is key. A good base for exploring thronged, attracting a young Gortys and Phaestos. d Map G6 crowd with its water sports and after-dark scene. But there are peaceful spots, too. d Map M4

Limin £ Chersonisos Biggest and busiest of the island’s resorts, Limin Chersonisos straddles the north coast highway, a long Limin Chersonisos

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3DOHRFKRUD .FEJUFSSBOFBO .DVWHOOL dilapidated Venetian dilapidated Venetian castle, is part ﬁshing village, Paleochora part resort. It has a crescent of of side sand on the west yellow the promontory and a longer, on pebbly beach less crowded the east. longest beach in eastern Crete, a Crete, a in eastern longest beach sand and shingle grey of swathe slopes. beneath pine-covered and its neighbour village The melded into a Analipsi have and of tavernas single chain guesthouses.

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Elafonisi £ With its sandy beach and vivid blue lagoon, the tiny, tropical-looking island Crete’s Top 10 of Elafonisi is barely separable from the Crete shoreline. Daily boat trips from Palai- ochora (May–Sep) take an hour each way (see also p50). d Map A4 The island fortress of Spinalonga Palaiochora-Agia Roumeli Spinalonga $ The boat from Palaiochora ! At the mouth of the Gulf of hugs the rugged south coast, Mirabello, Spinalonga is a maze calling in at the lazy port of of Venetian battlements. Daily Sougia, before chugging along to boat trips venture here in summer Agia Roumeli, a cheerfully from Plaka, Elounda and Agios ramshackle village at the foot of Nikolaos – 5, 20 and 35 minutes the Samaria Gorge. d Map B–C4 respectively (see p104). Agia Roumeli-Chora Gavdos % Sfakion @ Europe’s southernmost point, After marching up and down the where a few simple guesthouses, Samaria Gorge, your journey can tavernas and beaches welcome be extended along the coast by visitors. Boats sail daily in hopping on one of several daily summer from Palaiochora and boats that potter eastwards. All Chora Sfakion; journey time end up at the small port of Chora around 4 hours. d Map D6 Sfakion. d Map C–E4

The short stretch of water separating Elafonisi from the Crete shoreline 46 Crete’s Top 10 47 , a tough inflatable Jet Skiing Jet Despite the introduction Scuba Diving Although archaeological Waterskiing though Waterskiing, Aquapark At Chersonisos, the Sea Biscuit Rides Similarly popular is the Sailing Catamaran Catamarans can be hired Sailing Yacht can be chartered Yachts Windsurfing are readily available Boards Snorkelling crystal waters, Crete’s Banana Rides Inflatable bananas, towed ) & * ( $ % ^ Watersports ! @ # of rules limiting their use, jet limiting their use, jet of rules skis can still be rented at all major resorts. sites and ancient shipwrecks sites and ancient shipwrecks there are good are off-limits, from wrecks to several dives War II. World at most is available expensive, of the bigger resorts. “sea biscuit” a single rider. ring for at most the hour or day by resorts, with instruction sailors. novice for available “bareboat” (without skipper or with fully crewed or crew), National The a skipper only. Organisation has a Tourism companies. list of charter for hire, and the best beaches and the best beaches hire, for Chersonisos, are Georgioupoli, and Plakias. Malia, Ierapetra colourful fish, teaming with snorkelling. are ideal for at high speed and carrying up are big riders, to half a dozen in Malia and Chersonisos. Aqua Plus Water Park is a is a Park Water Plus Aqua of waterslides, playground and waterfalls. waves Map B1 d Map N6 d Map K3 d Map Q6 d Andikithira this If seeking solitude, Imeri Gramvousa Imeri the crag just off island This Dia A group of endangered Chrysi so named Chrysi (“Golden”), Koufonisi sandy beaches and Coves

remote island could be an ideal island could be an ideal remote Crete and between stop-off mainland Greece to the north- sails ferry A weekly west. Andikithira, between Kastelli, its larger neighbour Kithira and Gythio on the mainland. Gramvousa peninsula is crowned peninsula is crowned Gramvousa castle. crumbling a dramatic, by boat trips each several are There Kastelli, and excur- from week sions through tour agencies in Chania and Rethymno. Cretan wild goats have made made Cretan wild goats have be can They their home on Dia. trip from Irakleio visited on a day or Chersonisos. for its sandy beaches, is known is known its sandy beaches, for locally as Gaidouronisi (“Donkey Cretan Island”) because of the habit of retiring elderly donkeys boat to uninhabited islands. Daily trips from Ierapetra take 30–45 minutes in summer. attract boats from Makrygialos, boats attract while the remains of a Roman time to a amphitheatre attest from rich when the island grew a sea mollusc the trade of murex, dye imperial purple from which made. was

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Kritsa springs. Argyroupoli makes a ! Sweeping mountain views good base for relatively easy and a reputation as one of the walking in the surrounding hills. craft centres of eastern Crete d Map E4 ensures that Kritsa sees its fair Crete’s Top 10 share of tourism. Its main street, Axos lined with old stone buildings, is £ About 10 km (6 miles) inland packed with shops selling leather from the main north coast highway satchels and sandals, embroidery on the way to the scenic Amari and brightly patterned rugs. Some Valley, Axos has striking views 30 minutes’ walk from Kritsa is and an attractive Byzantine the minor archaeological site of church dedicated to Agia Anna. Lato, where you can see the The village is a popular stop for remains of a Classical Greek city. excursion groups, and its d Map M5 • Lato 8:30am–2pm Tue–Sun tavernas and souvenir shops get crowded around lunch time. On Argyroupoli the hillside above Axos are a few @ Western Crete’s prettiest scattered remnants of an ancient mountain village is tucked in the settlement. d Map H4 foothills of the Lefka Ori, on the site of the Hellenistic town of Kournas Lappa. The slopes of its valley $ Kournas nestles at the foot setting ﬂourish with lush of Mt Dafnomadara, in a fertile greenery, watered by natural plain close to Crete’s only freshwater lake. Its old stone houses cluster around a steep main street, and the village has two historic Byzantine- Venetian churches, dedicated to Agios Georgios and Agia Irene. d Map E3

Topolia % This village, en route from Kastelli to Paleochora, stands amid farm terraces, ﬁelds and olive groves, in a well watered Kournas

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settlements known as as known settlements the Enea Choria are set which Villages”), (“Nine of forests among the chestnut m At 1,200 the Selloni region. it can sea level, above (3,700 ft) the be pleasantly cooler than summer. in south coast beaches Elos woodland, by Surrounded Byzantine has a 14th-century Turkish and a ruined chapel aqueduct. *

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White Mountains patchwork of fertile ﬁelds, ! (Lefka Ori) gardens and orchards strikes a The White Mountain region of contrast with the treeless grey Crete is one of Europe’s pocket slopes surrounding it. d Map M4 wildernesses, a region Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top of savage, desert Elafonisi mountains traversed £ This tiny islet, a by deep gorges stone’s throw from through which small the mainland, may in streams ﬂow in Venetian or Byzantine spring. The best times have been a known of these is the preserve for deer, for lovely Samaria Gorge its name means “deer (see pp26–27). In island”. Between winter, the White Elafonisi and the Mountain peaks are Windmill, Lasithi Plateau shore is a lagoon of under heavy snow, but turquoise water. It is in summer temperatures can rise possible to reach the island to 35°C. d Map C–D4 simply by wading (see also p46). d Map A4 Lasithi @ It is still promoted to tourists Vai as the “Plain of Windmills”, $ A group of sturdy date but few of the thousands of palms on a crescent of sandy white-sailed windmills exist in beach at Vai is claimed to be working order. That said, the Europe’s only palm forest. The drive to this bowl of rich farm- palms may originally have been land surrounded by mountains planted by Arab raiders or ancient is stunning in itself. Lasithi’s

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3DOHRFKRUD .FEJUFSSBOFBO .DVWHOOL narrowest point is only 2 m (6 ft) m (6 ft) point is only 2 narrowest wide. It is a three- to four-hour walk. rocky slopes, lies high up on slopes, lies high up on rocky White the northern side of the Mountains. Millennia of winter the topsoil washed rains have slopes the surrounding from down to create this upland oasis. Most people pass through without stopping, but, especially in spring, most this is one of the prettiest, peaceful spots in Crete. between the villages of between the villages of ros. Its Komitades and Imb

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Samaria Gorge almost as spectacular ! Passing through and – especially in the ruggedly beautiful spring and autumn- scenery of the allows you to escape Samaria National Park, from the crowds of Crete’s Top 10 the Samaria Gorge is day visitors. d Map D4 Crete’s most popular walk. The track Sougia-Agia descends steeply at $ Roumeli first from the Omalos The walk begins in the plateau, then passes sleepy beach village of through pine woods, Sougia, on the eastern wild flower meadows Samaria Gorge fringe of the White and ruined, deserted Mountains, and climbs villages to emerge on the Libyan first through fields and Sea at the small village of Agia pastureland, then meadows of Roumeli (see pp26–27). wild flowers and pine woods, onto barren slopes high above Across the Lefka Ori the sea, before descending to @ A two-day traverse of the Agia Roumeli. Astute navigational savage, treeless wilderness of skills and a good map are the high White Mountains is required. d Map C4 spectacular, but only for very fit, experienced mountain walkers. Agia Roumeli-Loutro The White Mountains rise to % This one-day walk follows a summits of almost 2,500 m path along the pebbly beach of (8,000 ft), and the climate is Agios Pavlos, then climbs the bitterly cold in winter and scorchingly hot in summer. d Map C–D4 • Eos Mountain Refuge, Kallergi • 28210 44647 • Open Apr–Oct

Imbros Gorge £ The gorge, which cuts through the western fringes of the White Mountains, is a slightly shorter hike than the better known and much busier Samaria Gorge, but is Loutro

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3DOHRFKRUD .FEJUFSSBOFBO .DVWHOOL climb from the remote village of climb from the remote village of Kapetaniana to the summit of 2,456-m (8,055-ft) Mt Idi (also Mt Idi (also 2,456-m (8,055-ft) highest called Psiloritis), Crete’s mountain, begins on the Nida An arduous climb, it Plateau. only by should be attempted walkers. experienced

the Dead”, the walk through the through the the walk the Dead”, a dry Zakros Gorge follows stream bed through eroded that with caves limestone cliffs the as tombs by used were Minoans. *

& ^ steep “Marble Stair” onto a high, “Marble Stair” onto a high, steep plateau, descends pine-wooded and Aradena Gorge, into the a steep cliff ﬁnally zig-zags down village of to the delightful holiday Loutro. Lasithi Plateau Left Lammergeier vulture Right Scarce swallowtail butterﬂy Wildlife

Wild Goat Macedonia and ! The Cretan wild goat, Albania, migrates or kri-kri, is one of south to the Nile Europe’s rarest mammals. Delta for the winter. A few The shy creature is found birds sometimes make Crete’s Top 10 in small numbers in landfall in Crete after the Samaria Gorge being blown off National Park, in the course by storms or heart of the White Wild goat having become Mountains and on Dia exhausted by the Island, off Crete’s north coast. force of strong headwinds.

Lammergeier Eleonora’s Falcon @ The rare Lammergeier $ The very rare Eleonora’s vulture, Europe’s largest bird of falcon breeds on some of Crete’s prey, may be seen soaring high offshore islands and can above the Omalos Plateau or in sometimes be seen performing the high reaches of the White its remarkable aerobatics above Mountains. Nicknamed the the steep cliffs of Zakros, in “bone-breaker”, the Lammergeier eastern Crete. feeds on the carcasses of goats and sheep, and sometimes Cretan Spiny Mouse smashes bones open by % The Cretan spiny mouse is dropping them from a great unique to the island. Like most height to get at the marrow. small rodents, it is nocturnal and is therefore not the easiest of Pelican the island’s mammals to see. £ The Dalmatian pelican, Look out for its endearingly which breeds in the lakes and large ears and blunt spines wetlands of northern Greece, against rocky slopes at twilight.

Gecko ^ Big-eyed gecko lizards, with sucker- tipped fingers that enable them to cling to walls and ceilings, inhabit many older buildings, coming out after dark to hunt insects. You may see several clinging to the Dalmatian pelicans wall near outdoor 54 Crete’s Top 10 55 Evergreen Plane Evergreen Endemic to Crete, the This poppy lends a splash lends a splash poppy This Giant Reed giant calamus reed The Cyclamen Autumn from flowering In October, Crocus Spring with flower mauve This With its foul-smelling red With red its foul-smelling Bee Orchid Yellow bee orchid, yellow The Catchfly with its catchfly, The Poppy Horned Yellow Wild Olive hangs on olive wild The Ebony Cretan of pink spikes out Putting Arum Dragon ) & * ( £ $ % ^ Trees and Flowers Trees ! @ tough evergreen plane has plane has tough evergreen to cope with the evolved harsh island environment. of colour to rocky stretches of of stretches of colour to rocky the Cretan foreshore. as high as 4 m grows banks of on the ft) (13 Cretan streams. ground, the apparently barren signals the cyclamen autumn end of summer. stamens flowers vivid yellow early in the year. flower and spike, the dragon the dragon spike, and flower several is a motif in arum Minoan frescoes and a reality in shady spots beneath trees. that imitate bearing flowers blooms the insects it attracts, profusely on mountain slopes in spring. ragged bright-pink flowers, traps insects on the sap-coated stems. hairs of its sticky in the sheltered gorges of gorges of in the sheltered slopes where rocky Crete’s thrive. other trees few in spring, the Cretan flowers rocky clings to steep, ebony mountainsides. and cliffs Gecko . fourokattos lamps, waiting to to lamps, waiting Cretan Wild Cretan Cat long Cretan shepherds have Europe’s largest butterfly is is largest butterfly Europe’s Scarce Swallowtail Scarce Cretan Argus Argus Cretan Butterfly Cretan beautiful The argus Scops Owl with its Scops owl, tiny The

claimed that the wilder parts of claimed that the wilder parts of the island are home to a large wild cat called the The first live specimen of this specimen of this first live The caught in the was beast elusive Italian by zoologists. mid-1990s a lbs), with (12 5.5 kg Weighing and a formidable pelt tawny snarl, the Cretan wild cat is unique in Europe. the dramatically patterned scarce scarce the dramatically patterned wings its pale yellow swallowtail, stripes, dark zebra with marked a It’s and red and blue eye-spots. be seen all and may strong flyer Crete in summer. over butterfly is limited to the higher is limited to the higher butterfly slopes of the Dikti and Idi moun- large, dark brown This tains. is increasingly endan- butterfly gered through loss of habitat. grey plumage and bright yellow plumage and bright yellow grey is common in Crete. It nests eyes, walls stone in holes in battered and roosts on roadside telephone are You poles or tree stumps. at to see Scops owls most likely can often dark they dusk, but after other – a be heard calling to each hoot. monotonous, one-note

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* & snap up moths and mosquitoes and mosquitoes snap up moths the light. by attracted Left The defeat of Athens by King Minos Right Nikos Kazantzakis Famous Cretans

Zeus painters. Some of his ! Paramount among most important works the Greek gods, Zeus are exhibited in the was said to have Museum of Religious been born and raised Art in Irakleio Crete’s Top 10 in caves (see p58). (see p13). His mother sheltered him from his child- El Greco devouring father, the % Born in the Titan Kronos, whom Zeus twilight years of eventually slew, giving rise Venetian rule in Crete, to a new dynasty of gods. Domenikos Theotokopoulos Zeus (1541–1614) studied the icon King Minos painters of the Cretan School; @ Minos, King of Crete and their influence can be seen in both patron and tormentor of the the elongated features of his ingenious Daedalos, appears in subjects and his vivid use of the Greek myths as a tyrant. In colour. He trained under Titian in fact, the legendary Minos is Italy, then moved to Toledo, probably a composite of many where he acquired his Spanish Minoan kings, whose power and nickname of El Greco: “the Greek”. wealth were remembered long after their civilization fell. Vinzentzos ^ Kornaros Nicephoros Phokas This 16th-century poet (died £ The Byzantine general 1677) was a contemporary of El Nicephoros Phokas reconquered Greco and Damaskinos and is Crete from the Saracens in 961. remembered for his life’s work, Laying siege to their the Erotokritos, post- capital at Khandak Byzantine Greece’s (Irakleio), he demora- greatest work of epic lized the garrison by literature. firing the heads of their captured Nikos comrades over the & Kazantzakis walls of the city. Born in Irakleio, Kazantzakis Michael (1883–1957) is best $ Damaskinos known for his novel Michailis Damaskinos Alexis Zorbas, (circa 1530–91) is the translated into English best known of the and filmed as Zorba Cretan School icon El Greco the Greek. He was

56 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Crete’s Top 10 57

by (p42). by El Greco by Frescoes of Moni Frescoes Valsamonerou The Cretan Journal of Journal The Cretan Lear Edward & GentlemenOfficers Waugh Evelyn by of the Magi Adoration Damaskinos by Travellers on the Way Way on the Travellers of the Monastery to Thou Lord, Art Great Ioannis Kornaros by Lefteris by Paintings Kanakakis the Sea The Bull from Mary Renault by Zorba the Greek Kazantzakis by Erotokritos Kornaros Vinzentzos ) to attributed Variously Damaskinos and 15th-century painter Konstantinos Rikos. ^ A ﬁctional retelling of the Theseus, ancient legend of Minos and the Minotaur. & diary illustrated of a Lear’s to Crete in 1864. journey * account of the British A pithy II. War World in Crete in ( of the veneration A portrayal (Museum Jesus of the infant Art, Irakleio). of Religious £ only painting to be El Greco’s seen in Crete (in the Historical Museum in Knosos). $ most is one of Crete’s This icons; it dazzling and famous Toplou resides at Moni % Contemporary Rethymno’s Arts Centre houses a variety work. of Kanakakis’s Top 10 Works of Art Works Top 10 and Literature ! of spirit freedom-loving The in this fore Greece is to the early 20th-century tragi-comedy. @ thousand lines of epic Ten in the 15-syllable poetry written heptametric style of Byzantium. St Catherine excommuni- the by cated Orthodox his for Church humanist views, and his self- penned epitaph reads: “I hope nothing. I for nothing. I fear am free.” Chatzimichalis Chatzimichalis Dalianis Ioannis Daskalogiannis (died Ioannis Daskalogiannis (died Ioannis Daskalogiannis Eleftherios Venizelos Eleftherios at Mournies near Born

1770) raised the clans of the the clans of the raised 1770) mountainous and inaccessible in the ﬁrst major region Sfakia in 1770. Turkey rebellion against and when failed, uprising The to Daskalogiannis attempted at negotiate a surrender seized, he was Frangokastello – a not and skinned alive tortured uncommon penalty rebels for against the sultan. Chania, Venizelos (1864–1936) (1864–1936) Chania, Venizelos made his reputation in the 1889 uprisings. He led the and 1896 union with Greece, campaign for on to become the and went the dominating Greek premier, 1930s. politics until the nation’s in a He then became involved republican coup d’etat and failed to ﬂee the country, forced was in Paris. dying in exile

Dalianis garrisoned the fort at at the fort Dalianis garrisoned with only 385 Frangokastello men during the nationwide On the mainland, uprising in 1821. the rebellion succeeded, giving birth to the modern Greek state, Dalianis and but in Crete it failed. his men, overwhelmingly were Turks, the outnumbered by ﬁnal stand. massacred in a valiant )

( * Eleftherios Venizelos Eleftherios Left Hercules and his labours Right Theseus and Ariadne in a boat Myths and Legends

The Birth of Zeus Theseus and ! Zeus was the sixth $ Ariadne child of the Titan Minos demanded Kronos, who had tribute of youths and devoured his other maidens from the Crete’s Top 10 children to prevent Athenians after them from defeating them in overthrowing him as war. The victims were he had overthrown his given to the Minotaur, own father, Uranus, ruler Europa on the Bull but Theseus, prince of of the old gods. Born in Athens, slew the Minotaur the Diktian Cave in Crete, Zeus and escaped the labyrinth with was hidden by his mother Rhea the help of Minos’s daughter and raised in the Idaian Cave on Ariadne, who gave him a ball of Mount Idi. Zeus eventually thread to retrace his steps. poisoned Kronos, making him regurgitate his siblings, who Talos the Bronze Giant overthrew the Titans to become % According to myth, Zeus the new gods and goddesses. created the bronze giant to defend Crete. It patrolled the Zeus and Europa coasts, hurling huge boulders to @ Though married to the sink vessels that came too close. goddess Hera, Zeus took many Talos was finally slain by Jason, mortal lovers, one of whom was with the aid of the sorceress the princess Europa, daughter of Medea, who pointed out the the King of Phoenicia. Taking the giant’s only weak spot, a vein form of a white bull, Zeus carried near its ankle. Europa off to Crete, where he took her as his wife. Daedalus and Ikarus ^ Daedalus and his son, The Minotaur Ikarus, made wings of feathers £ and the Labyrinth held together with In the myth of King beeswax in order to Minos (one of the sons escape imprisonment at of Zeus and Europa), his the hands of King Minos queen Pasiphae bore a – punishment for helping child, half bull and half Theseus slay the man, after coupling with Minotaur. Ikarus flew too the sacred bull of Zeus. high and the sun’s heat Minos imprisoned this melted the wax, causing monster, the Minotaur, in him to plummet into the a tortuous maze, the sea, but Daedalus reached subterranean labyrinth. The death of Talos safety in Sicily. 58 Crete’s Top 10 59 Cave of the Holy Cave Fathers Ilithia stone figures of Archaic Ilias Profitis this the Diktian Cave, Like Melidoni be said to was cave This Idaian Cave on enormous cavern This Kamares on Mount Idi’s cave This Skotino is one of Crete’s This Inatos goddess Ilithia, The Sfendoni most spectacular Crete’s Diktian Cave (Diktaion Antron) ) the in cave gloomy This remote Sellino highlands is shrine. a Greek Orthodox now & * ( £ $ % ^ Top 10 Caves Top 10 ! @ birthplace of Said to be the the above Zeus, this cave Lasithi Plateau contains an artificial lake. pregnant women have been been have pregnant women birthplace in this cave, found of the goddess Ilithia. is also Arkalochori near cave claimed as birthplace of Zeus. the bronze Talos, the lair of Zeus. giant created by the slopes of Mount Idi was the slopes of Mount Idi was hideout. childhood Zeus’s its name lends southern face to the sophisticated Minoan here. discovered pottery first It was largest caves. dedicated to virgin goddess Britomartis and later became Artemis. a sanctuary to daughter of Zeus and Hera, in this grotto, worshipped was into the sea-cliff delves which Tsoutsouros. above cave, crammed with strange crammed with strange cave, deep beneath formations rock the Idi range.

(see p57) The Drossoulites of The Drossoulites Frangokastello The Immortal Plane Tree Tree Plane The Immortal at Gortys Nymphs of Dragolaki as the known cave The Hercules and the Bull and the Hercules of Crete

and his men, massacred by the the and his men, massacred by here in 1821. Turks Dragolaki or “Dragon’s Lair”, just just Lair”, “Dragon’s Dragolaki or mountain outside the Sfakia Ioannis, is said to Agios village of Nereids, water- be haunted by daughters of were who nymphs the god Nereus.

Phantoms are said to emerge on Phantoms are said to emerge on sea from the every year May 17 mists and ride into the deserted at Frangokastello fortress little are the ghosts of They (see p40). Dalianis Chatzimichalis )

( Europa beneath Zeus ravished this huge plane tree near the a As of Gortys. ruins Roman to result, the tree is said never in winter. even shed its leaves, * The demigod Hercules, son of demigod Hercules, son of The Zeus and the mortal woman tasks by set 12 Alkmene, was Argos, one of King Eurystheus of and tame to capture was which the untameable bull of Crete. Daedalus and Ikarus Daedalus & Left Musicians playing the lyra Centre Rural piper Right Dance performance Music and Instruments

Bouzouki £ The eight-stringed bouzouki is an eastern relative of the guitar and its origins are probably in Asia Minor. Bouzouki music Crete’s Top 10 gained popularity in mainland Greece after the exchange of Greek and Turkish populations in the 1920s, but the bouzouki has always been in use in Crete. $ Santouri Lyra and laouta The hammer dulcimer or santouri is another import from Lyra Asia Minor into Greece, where it ! The three-stringed lyra is was not widely played until the typical of Crete, although the 1920s, though Alexis Zorbas, instrument is also found in hero of Zorba the Greek, claimed mainland Greece. It is similar in playing the santouri among his shape to a violin, but has a far many talents. more rounded, pear-shaped body and the neck is stouter. The lyra Gerakokoudouna player props the instrument on % (Hawk Bells) one knee and plays it with a Cretan lyra players sometimes small bow, producing melodies attach tiny copper or silver hawk and harmonies that may be bells to the horsehair bows with merry, martial or melancholy. which the lyra is played. These little bells, as well as having an Laouta ornamental purpose, can be @ The laouta is the Cretan made to provide an occasional version of the mandolin and is lively and rhythmic jingling one of the most important accompaniment. instruments for Cretan musicians and compo- sers. It is usually used to provide a backing rhythm for the lyra, and like the lyra is an essential member of any Cretan ensemble. However, the laouta is sometimes also heard as a solo instrument. Musicians outside a local kafeneia, traditional café

60 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Crete’s Top 10 61 siganos for . is Crete’s is Crete’s rizitiko sprightly sprightly pentozalis’s is a dignified haniotis is a dignified pidiktos, a dance from or “butcher’s “butcher’s or hasapikos is the best known syrtos is the best known Mandinades traditional rhyming The Rizitiko The Syrtos Greece, all over Performed Rembetika of the Greek version The The The Sousta A flirtatious the dance for (“Zorba’s Hasapikos Dance”) Siganos dignified The Haniotis The Pidiktos The Pentozalis & * ( ) $ % The inspiration for provided dance” in the film Dance” “Zorba’s Zorba the Greek ^ Top 10 Traditional Traditional Top 10 and Dances Songs ! @ £ couplets – usually love songs songs couplets – usually love rich – are typical of Crete’s comes to oral tradition, which in local festivals. the fore the of the Greek circle dances. urban blues, brought to Greece Minor Asia refugees from by is popular with in the 1920s, Cretans.young young, and a favourite at at young, and a favourite and festivals. weddings male dance, in which warrior act out scenes of performers combat and heroism. rhythms are reminiscent of of are reminiscent rhythms the jigs and reels of Irish and music. folk Scottish line dance for men and women men and women line dance for Chania. that comes from great involves eastern Crete, athletic leaps and bounds. groups of men and woman is is groups of men and woman festival. any a dance for saz, was bouzouki, , or Greek , or Greek askomandoura , a Cretan voulgari is a small hand diouli is a small hand Baglamas Not unique to Crete, this Kithara (Guitar) Kithara whether acoustic guitar, The The The Askomandoura (Bagpipe) Askomandoura The The Voulgari Diouli The

stringed instrument was the the was stringed instrument makeshift poor man’s home-made with a dried gourd or sometimes a tortoiseshell for and wire strings. a sound box or (more often) electric, has electric, has or (more often) of the older sadly ousted many at village and, even instruments and saints weddings festivals, has become a standard days, member of the Cretan ensemble. bagpipe, was once a popular once a popular bagpipe, was around the southern instrument some other islands. Like Aegean it is seldom heard instruments, as a undergoing a minor revival new wave of younger musicians their musical roots. rediscover version of the long-necked lute lute of the long-necked version as the Turkey in known in a popular solo instrument Cretanmusic but is rarely village heard now. drum of wood and goatskin and goatskin of wood drum in a traditional Greek which the music ensemble represents entire percussion section.

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* & The askomandoura ^ Left Traditional Greek dancing Right Lighting candles for the Virgin Mary Festivals and Events

the defenders of Moni Arkadiou, who blew themselves up rather than surrender to the Turks.

Sultanina, Siteia, Crete’s Top 10 $ first two weeks Aug Siteia’s sultana festival is a relaxed celebration of the grape An Easter meal with bread and dyed eggs harvest, with music, dancing, lashings of local wine and nightly Easter performances in the old Venetian ! This is the most important fortress, now restored as an celebration of the Greek year. It open air theatre. is predominantly a family affair, focusing on the home, where Chestnut Festival, spit-roasted goat is the highlight % mid-Oct of a day of eating and drinking. This festival of the chestnut More formal, religious harvest is most fervently processions are led by celebrated in the village of fabulously attired priests Elos in southwest Crete. or monks and are often Music, dancing, eating followed by ﬁreworks. In and drinking all play many towns and villag- their part. es Easter culminates with the burning of an Festival of St efﬁgy of Judas Iscariot. ^ Nicholas, Agios Moni Arkadiou Nikolaos, 6 Dec Festival of the Many processions and @ Virgin Mary, 15 Aug celebrations abound at Agios The Festival of the Virgin Mary Nikolaos to celebrate the town’s (Apokimisis tis Panayias) is second patron saint, who is also only to Easter and tends to be a venerated all over the island. much more public celebration. Church processions are followed by open-air eating and drinking in the churchyard or village square, in turn followed by music and dancing until the early hours.

Arkadiou, 7–9 Nov £ A patriotic three-day gathering to commemorate the freedom ﬁghters of the 1866 uprising and Roasting goat on the spit at Easter 62 Crete’s Top 10 63 Book of of Book Ag. Ioannis Theologos Theologos Ioannis Ag. the Divine) (St John Ilias Profitis Elijah) (Prophet Prodromos Ioannis Ag. the Baptist) (St John Agios Michalis Michalis Agios (St Michael) Giorgios Agios (St George) Eftihios Agios (St Eustacius) Agios Titos Titos Agios Titus) (St of St Paul follower This Nikolaos Agios (St Nicholas) Paul) (St Pavlos Agios Pavlos Agios of chapel The Agioi Deka (Ten Saints) (Ten Deka Agioi Cretan martyrs killed Ten for their faith by the Romans the Romans by their faith for near Gortys. their church have ) in shown is often St John goat-skin Greek art wearing the pre- like breeches, Christian god Pan. & wrote the St John but he on Patmos, Revelations on Crete. is also venerated * for mountain-topMany chapels originally have this prophet may the sun-god Helios. been for ( $ the commander of The is especially host heavenly Cretans. combative by revered % shepherds patron saint of The is greatly esteemed and, as a saint, is doubly popular. warrior ^ St Eustacius is especially Crete, popular in southwest and chapels where many bear his name. children Top 10 Saints Top 10 ! @ saint of seafarers patron The is honoured all and ﬁshermen around the coast of Crete. £ was given the task of bringing the task of bringing given was Christianity to the Cretans. stands where the saint was Agia ashore between swept and Loutro. Roumeli Epiphany, Epiphany, 6 Jan & In the Greek calendar, ends Epiphany the 12-day reign of mischievous run spirits who loose during loose during Festival of Agios Titos, Titos, Agios of Festival 25 Aug St George’s Day, 23 Apr 23 Day, St George’s Gonia Asi of At the Church Independence Day/Feast Independence Day/Feast 25 Mar Annunciation, of the

Apokoronou near Rethymno, near Rethymno, Apokoronou hundreds of Cretan shepherds bring their sheep to be blessed year, each Day on St George’s ﬂocks hoping to ensure healthy In return, and a prosperous year. the shepherds distribute free milk. sheep’s

Christmas. Ceremonial rites rites Christmas. Ceremonial next banish the spirits until the springs and baptismal fonts, year, local are blessed by and wells places priests or monks. In some young as Chora Sfakion, such tossed a cruciﬁx for men dive a priest. into the harbour by ) celebration to mark biggest The patron saint is Crete’s of the day at Irakleio, where icons and through the relics are carried The streets with great pomp. is also celebrated at day saint’s across the island. churches

(

* commemorating A national festival ﬁnal the beginning of Greece’s independence in for struggle It is combined with the 1821. of the celebration of the Feast Annunciation, and so religious by processions are followed military parades in major towns, along with music and dancing all the way. Diving at Epiphany Left Odos Souliou, Rethymno Centre Odos Daedalou, Irakleio Right Odos Dimitrakaki Markets and Shopping Streets Chania Market, Plateia Odos 1866, Irakleio ! Venizelou, Chania $ Irakleio’s main market The market building is a Chania street and a great place to landmark and bustles with shop for Cretan herbs and vendors and shoppers. A tisanes. It also offers an Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top visual feast and also the insight into the Cretan diet place to buy herbs, olive – along with the olives, oil, dried fruit, honey and Odos Skridlof, you will see buckets of live typical Cretan souvenirs, Chania snails for sale. d Map K3 such as the tiny metal pots used to brew Greek coffee. % Odos Daedalou, Irakleio d Map D2/B6 Named after the legendary inventor of the Labyrinth (see Odos Skridlof, Chania p58), this road is rather more @ Running through the centre up-market than Odos 1866, and of the old quarter, this has been is lined with shops selling jewel- a street of saddlemakers and lery and linen and cotton clothes cobblers for centuries, perhaps to summer visitors. d Map K3 even millennia. These days, satchels, sandals and handbags ^ Museum Shops abound. d Map D2/B6 For quality replicas of ﬁnds from the archaeological sites of Boutari Winery, Archanes Crete, visit the Museum Shops, £ The best wines in Crete in the former Venetian Loggia on (and from other parts of Greece) Odos Paleologou in Rethymno can be tasted and bought in this and in the Byzantine Museum visitor centre at Crete’s top in Chania. d Map Q2/A5 winery on the Fantaxommetocho vineyard (see also p81). d 70100 & Local Products Exhibition, Archanes • 28107 31617 • Map K4 Farmers’ Union of Siteia Promoting the produce of local farmers, this co-operative venture is well worth visiting just to see how the vines and olives of Crete are grown and processed. It is also a good place for quality olive oil, wine and raki, Crete’s favourite spirit. d Myssonos 74 • Map Q4 • Open by appt: Souvenir shop, Irakleio call 28430 22211

64 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Odos Souliou, Rethymno Top 10 Traditional * Rethymno’s up-market shopping street, lined with stores Shops selling copies of Minoan pottery, ! Xilouris Popular Art, Anogeia traditional Cretan pottery and Crete’s Top 10 The ancient art of handloom modern ceramics, as well as weaving. d Milopotamou colourful cotton and linen, lace and embroidery. d Map F3/Q2 @ Cretan Handicraft, Mirthios Odos Ethnikis Andistasi, Vividly coloured weavings, ( shepherds’ sticks, embroi- Rethymno dery, lace, herbs, wines, raki The most photogenic market in and olive oil. d 74060 Mirthios Crete spills out – as indeed it has for centuries – from open- £ To Maxairadiko, fronted shops and stalls along Chania The best of a clutch of Odos Ethnikis Andistasi and traditional knifemakers on the around the Venetian Porta Guora. street. d 18 Sifakas Go early in the morning, when it is in full cry and waiters bustle $ Voskakis Workshop, from stall to stall with coffee Amari Valley d Nikos Voskakis hand-carves and raki. Map F3/Q2 olive wood platters, bowls, dishes, candle sticks and Car Park next to Municipal cutlery. d BIzari ) Gardens, Rethymno An open-air market takes place % Nikos Siragas, Rethymno every Thursday from 7am until Artistic wood-turner acquiring 1pm. Stalls sell local produce, an international reputation for fruit and vegetables, cheese, his beautiful handmade honey, ﬂowers and clothing. bowls, vases and works of d There is also a smaller market on art. Petalioti 2, Rethymno Saturday mornings in the square ^ Landen Apan, Chania next to the bus station. d Map F3 Traditional foodstuffs of Crete. d Daskalogianni 70 & Ypsanta Selinou, Paleochora Tiny shop on a nameless lane, with tapestries, rugs and lace. d Off main street * Top Hanas, Chania Wonderful stock of old Cretan rugs, blankets and kilims. d 3 Angelou ( Roka Carpets, Chania Cretan textile weaving. d Zambeliou 61 ) Komboloi 52, Chania Old-fashioned rosaries made from olive wood, amber, jet, turquoise etc. d Dimotiki Agora 52

Porta Guora, Rethymno 65 Left Dining in a traditional taverna Centre Greek coffee Right Octopuses hanging out to dry Food and Drink

Tsikoudia Olives ! Tsikoudia or raki (like $ Olives and Greece are Italian grappa) is a colourless inseparable. Indeed, without spirit distilled from the skins the olive – which has and stems left after grape provided not only food but Crete’s Top 10 pressing. You may see also oil for lamps, wood for market traders starting the fuel and timber for building day with a shot of tsikoudia ships and homes – Crete and a strong coffee. It is might not have become the also drunk after meals. cradle of Minoan civilization. Tsikoudia, Olives are sold in a Retsina strong spirit bewildering array of sizes @ Retsina is a white wine and flavours, with as many as flavoured with pine resin. The 40 different types available from flavour was originally imparted all over Greece. by the pine storage barrels, but today the resin is added before Cheeses bottling. It is often served % (Staka and Mizithra) chilled, though locally made Far more delicious than the retsina may be available from the ubiquitous feta are Crete’s own barrel (apo to bareli), traditionally cheeses, such as mizithra, made being served in copper jugs. from fresh sheep’s milk, and staka, made from whey. Wines £ Cretan wines are becoming Cretan Sausages more sophisticated as makers ^ (Loukanika) introduce techniques pioneered Loukanika – small spicy pork by New World producers. The sausages – are found all over Boutari company’s Fantaxo- Greece, but those from Crete metocho vineyard at Archanes are reckoned to be among the (see p81), where award-winning best. They may be served fried white wines are made, offers a (tiganita) or smoked (kapnista), guided tour, tasting opportunities and are a regular feature of a and a shop. lavish meze (dish of appetizers).

Left Green and black olives Right Cretan cheeses 66 Crete’s Top 10 67 (rice rizokalo (rice , and is said tisane, and is said Fennel profusely in the Growing Cumin import, Another exotic Rosemary in abundance, Growing Mint ubiquitous wild herb This Saffron Deriving from the crocus Thyme thyme, Sweet-scented Coriander Coriander is used fresh as Cinnamon Cretans acquired a taste Dittany its name from the Taking Sage Cretan Sage from the ) & * ( £ $ % ^ Herbs ! @ countryside, this member of is used to the aniseed family ouzo, the national drink. flavour cumin is essential in the slowly cumin is essential in the slowly casserole stifado. cooked rosemary Cretans is used by fish dishes. mainly to flavour walks scents the air on rural of dishes. dozens and flavours flower, costly saffron is used is used costly saffron flower, sparingly to add colour and soups and stews. to flavour with its deep purple flowers, wild on Crete’s grows roadsides and hillsides. and garnish for a flavouring grills and salads. stews, Turkish spices during the for trading eras. Venetian and cinnamon flavours Today, desserts like pies. pudding) and sweet Dikti mountains, this variety Dikti mountains, this variety unique to Crete of oregano is credited and has long been powers. with restorative mountains is a favourite medicinal sore chills, to cure fever, throats and rheumatism.

skieto. (stifado) ; and for metriou; and for (oktapodi) are is a rich soup soup patsa is a rich Octopus Octopus Soup (Kreatosoupa Soup (Kreatosoupa and Patsa) Once a valuable source of source of Once a valuable Snails (Saligkaria) Greek Coffee (Kafe Elliniko) (Kafe Coffee Greek and Finely ground coffee

caught by spear ﬁshing, caught by pounding on a by tenderized then hung to dry sun in the rock, charcoal grilled over being before in a casserole or cooked protein in hard times, snails are protein in hard times, snails are as a delicacy. regarded now (snail casserole) Saligkaria stifado is a uniquely Cretan dish, and is on the menu be found to unlikely in tourist restaurants. sugar are boiled together in in sugar are boiled together a thick, small metal to make pots is served in a drink, which black cup along with a tall glass of tiny coffee, a sweet order To water. medium- ; for glykou ask for ask for sweet,

coffee without sugar order coffee ) made with tripe. Both are often are often made with tripe. Both when a goat served at festivals, is traditionally slaughtered and meal. spit-roasted as a family Cretan peasant cooking makes Cretan peasant cooking makes animal slaughtered. full use of any Kreatosoupa (meat soup) is made from the bones and left- or scraps of goat, mutton over while beef, ( * Loukanika, the spicy Cretan sausages the spicy Cretan Loukanika, & with onions and cumin. Left Giovanni, Irakleio Centre Karnagio, Chania Right Veneto, Rethymno Restaurants

Tamam, Chania some unusual choices as well ! Popular with Chania’s locals as reliable favourites such as as well as holidaymakers, Tamam pizza and lasagna al forno has a menu that takes in baked in a wood-fired oven. cuisine from right around Elegant decor and attentive Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top the shores of the Eastern service (see p101). Mediterranean. Good choice for vegetarians Karnagio, Chania too (see p101). $ Set on Chania’s Venetian harbour is @ Ela, Chania Karnagio. It offers a One of Chania’s Amphissa olives good range of traditional most popular restaurants, dishes, as well as grilled set within the ruins of a Venetian chicken, pork and lamb, huge mansion. The menu is wide in peasant salads and a slender scope, combining traditional range of fish dishes. All meals Greek dishes with international are substantial (see p101). favourites, as well as a few more authentically Cretan offerings Avli, Rethymno (see p101). % This elegant courtyard restaurant is, arguably, the best Kariatis, Chania in Rethymno. A pretty garden £ An imaginative menu at provides the setting for the this fine Italian restaurant in traditional grilled and roasted the eastern harbour provides meat dishes, served alongside traditional Cretan favourites such as apatzia (smoked sausages) and roast goat (see p101).

Veneto, Rethymno ^ The 13th-century vaults that house the Veneto once contained a refectory for monks living in the cells above. The Veneto’s menu features a number of Cretan specialities, and service is excellent (see p101).

Kyria Maria, Rethymno & A friendly little taverna on a quiet alley in Rethymno’s old town, near the famous Rimondi Courtyard at Avli, Rethymno fountain. Kyria Maria serves

68 Recommend your favourite restaurant on traveldk.com Top 10 Fish Served in Cretan Restaurants ! Fagri Red sea bream, prized for its delicate white flesh, is Crete’s Top 10 grilled and served whole and is one of the most expensive fish dishes on the menu. @ Melanourgia A large, silver-scaled fish with tasty white flesh; it’s usually grilled. £ Barbounia Small red mullet appear on almost every tourist menu, Kyria Maria, Rethymno pan-fried or grilled. Each fish provides only a few delicious village style dishes and is usually mouthfuls – beware of bones! bustling in the evenings but quieter at lunchtime (see p101). $ Marides Tiny whitebait are dipped in flour and shallow-fried, then * Giovanni, Irakleio served with shredded lettuce The most sophisticated and a slice of lemon. restaurant in Crete’s capital city, Giovanni serves Italian dishes, % Lavraki Sea bass is baked in olive plus an array of Cretan treats oil, red wine vinegar and and re-invented traditional Greek rosemary, served whole. dishes (see p89). ^ Sardelles The Old Mill, Elounda Sardines are often wrapped ( in vine leaves to seal in flavour The most luxurious dining and moisture, then grilled. on the Elounda Peninsula is in Salted and pickled sardines the gourmet restaurant of the are often served as meze. Elounda Mare hotel (see p126). The menu is fabulous, combining & Xifias Swordfish keeps its flavour the best of Greek cooking with well when frozen, so is a world-class cuisine, and dining favourite with restaurateurs. is accompanied by piano music. There are only 20 covers, so * Skorpios booking well ahead is essential. The evil-looking scorpion fish is surprisingly tasty and Dress code formal (see p113). essential in fish soup. Porphyra, Makrygialos ( Tonnos ) Serving a selection of Tuna steaks are best uniquely Cretan dishes, Porphyra savoured in spring and autumn, when tuna migrate brings Cretan cooking to through Cretan waters. gourmet heights. The waiters are happy to guide you through ) Gopes the menu and will gladly explain Nondescript-looking, bony some of the less recognizable little fish that’s the cheapest on the menu, but delicious ingredients. Set on a terrace once the bones are removed. overlooking the beach (see p113).

For more restaurants around Crete See pp89, 101 & 113 69 Left Fresh ﬁsh Centre Taverna Auoas, Agios Nikolaos Right Vegetables ripening in the sun Tavernas

Sterna tou Taverna Goules, ! Bloumosifi, £ Goulediana Vamos The charming host at This taverna is a key this traditional village part of a restored taverna offers Cretan Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top 19th-century stone food with a twist. A village. It serves a menu highlight is the wide menu of Cretan roast pork in wine specialities, baked in Taverna habitués and honey sauce. wood-burning ovens, d 10 km (6 miles) south of and is open for breakfast, lunch Rethymno • Map F4 • 28310 41001 • €€ and dinner (see p101). To Farangi, Agia Roumeli Ta Douliana, Douliana $ This family-run taverna is @ Situated in the centre of tiny the best place to eat in Agia Douliana, this typical village Roumeli (see pp26–7) and serves taverna’s rickety wooden tables sfakanies pites (pies topped and chairs are on a pretty terrace with honey, a regional speciality), shaded by vines. The menu stuffed vegetables and vine focuses on traditional, hearty leaves, grilled meat dishes fare such as arni avgolemono and ﬁsh. d Centre of Agia Roumeli (lamb with lemon sauce). There • Map C4 • Closed Oct–May • €€€ is also a good selection of local cheeses and wines. d Centre of % Zorbas, Siteia Douliana, on road between Kalive and The traditional menu at this Vamos • Map E3 • 28250 23380 • €€ large, old-fashioned taverna beside the harbour has not changed in decades. It includes meze as well as heartier meals, including mousakas and a range of grilled ﬁsh dishes (see p113).

Taverna ^ tou Zissi, Rethymno Zissi looks rather unprepossessing at ﬁrst, housed Sterna tou Bloumosiﬁ, Vamos in a drab concrete

70 For price bands See p89 building. But Top 10 Cretan Wines inside, it serves some of the best ! Domaine Fantaxometocho food around. The Excellent red wine made from

charcoal-grilled Mantilaria and Kotsifali grapes. Crete’s Top 10 lamb alone is Good with lamb or chicken. worth a trip from Rethymno @ Chardonnay Boutari Dry, white varietal wine – Zorbas, Siteia (see p101). great with seafood and cheese. Marilena, Elounda £ Sauvignon Blanc & Marilena’s menu concen- Boutari trates on seafood, simply grilled Dry white, ideal with vegetable dishes, cheeses and cold cuts. and very fresh, and prices are not exorbitant by the standards $ Sant’Antonio of Elounda, which is generally Produced from Kotsifali the priciest place on Crete. and Mantilaria grapes in the Other Greek dishes have been Peza region of central Crete by Miliarakis Brothers, this adapted for foreign palates by deep red wine is barrel-aged using a little less oil (see p113). for ﬁve to six years. Taverna Androulidakis, % Kokolakis * Gonya Ioannis Kokolakis bottles wines made from liatiko grapes Come to this family-run taverna grown in the Agrilos vineyards, with a candle-lit courtyard for not far from Siteia, which atmospheric alfresco summer produce a light, dry red wine. dining. The extensive menu of Cretan favourites features ^ Kissamos dishes prepared with home- This potent red wine with d a 13 per cent alcohol content grown produce. Map F3 comes from Romeiko grapes • 28310 31282 • €€ grown in Crete’s north west. Taverna Auoas, & Rodolino ( Agios Nikolaos Made from liatiko red wine grapes blended with white Handily located close to the varieties, this rosé is best Archaeological Museum, this served chilled to the bone. taverna serves a wide variety of well-prepared traditional * Clos de Creta Cretan dishes. d Paleologou 44 Unassuming white wine made from Romeiko grapes • Map N4 • Closed Nov–Apr • €€€ from the Kissamos area. Itanos, Agios Nikolaos ( Domenico ) In a lane just off the main Made from Vilana and square, Itanos claims to be the Rozaki grapes, this is one of the better pine-ﬂavoured retsinas. resort’s only authentic taverna – a claim that looks increasingly ) Malvasia shaky as tourism continues to One of Europe’s oldest grow. Neverthless, the taverna wines, Malvasia was exported serves good, affordable Cretan as far as England by the Venetians. Made from a blend meals and wine, and is always of sugar-rich, aromatic grapes, busy. d Plateia Venizelou • Map N4 it is best drunk with dessert. • 28410 24353 • €€€

For more places to eat and drink in Crete 71 See pp68–9, 72–3, 88–9, 100–101, 112–113 Left Fortetza, Chania Right Pallas Café, Chania Cafés and Ouzeries

open late. It has tables on the quay, up on a roof terrace and inside, within rooms prettily decorated with frescoes. d Akti Tompazi 17, Old Harbour • Map D2 Crete’s Top 10 Crete’s Top

Apicorno Café, Kalives % An attractive modern café with large indoor and outdoor Aroma, Chania seating areas. The outside tables provide a scenic view across the Pagopoieion, Irakleio Bay of Souda. The café is open ! A remarkable café-bar set in all day until late throughout the city’s old icehouse, serving the year and serves a variety of Italian, Greek and iced coffee all coffee, ice cream and alcoholic day long. The decoration includes drinks as well as a choice of mementos of the building’s past, breakfasts and snacks. including the old ice lift. d Platia d Main Street • Map E2 Ayios Titos • Map K3 Barko Café, Agios Nikolaos Aroma, Chania ^ Right on the seafront at @ With tables on the east Kitroplateia, this café and side of the harbour, Aroma is restaurant is a popular choice a popular rendezvous for young for mezes, snacks and drinks. locals. Fine views of the harbour and a pleasant place for breakfast, morning coffee, an apéritif or after-dinner drinks. d Akti Tombazi 4 • Map D2/B5

Fortetza, Chania £ Delightful café-bar midway along the mole that encloses the Venetian harbour. This is the best place in town for a sunset drink, with views across the water to the old town. d Palaio Limani • Map D2/B4

Pallas Café, Chania $ This elegant rendezvous in an old Venetian mansion on the harbour opens early and stays Pagopoieion café-bar, Irakleio

72 Recommend your favourite café on traveldk.com Meze Dishes ! Octopus (Oktapodi) A favourite accompaniment to a glass of ouzo, raki or

retsina is a dish of octopus Crete’s Top 10 chunks, cooked in oil, herbs and vinegar, and served cold. @ Marides Tiny whitebait are coated in flour, flash-fried and served with a slice of lemon as a snack or a first course. £ Loukanika Typical rural Cretan café These smoked and spiced pork sausages are a typically Casual by day, it attracts the Cretan snack, served more smart set in the evening. often in winter. d Kitroplateia Beach • Map N4 $ Baked Potatoes Another typical winter & To Oneiro, Rethymno snack served in mountain This authentic little wine village ouzeries, often cooked bar/café, situated near the in a wood-burning stove in the Venetian Gate, serves drinks middle of the café. and snacks all day and into the % Saganaki evening. d Dimitrakaki • Map F3 A salty and aromatic cheese-based appetizer served Mesostrati, Rethymno fried or grilled as a meze dish. * A range of Cretan speciali- ^ Karpousi ties and drinks is served at this Sweet and refreshing pink traditional Cretan café/meze bar. cubes of chilled watermelon Enjoy a coffee or raki on the are among the most popular shady terrace while watching the summertime meze. hustle and bustle of the town. d & Olives Kounoupa Lelas • Map F3 You will see more than 40 different kinds of olive for sale Kafenio Rakadiko, Siteia in Greek markets. Their strong ( Located right on the flavours complement a glass waterfront, this very traditional of retsina wonderfully. kafeneion allows patrons to * Gigantes enjoy a great view with their A more substantial dish: Greek coffee (see p112). large white beans simmered in oil, herbs and tomatoes. ) Kali Kardia, Siteia Served cold in summer. Frequented more by locals ( Spanakopites than visitors, Kali Kardia (“Good Tiny spinach pies made Heart”) makes few concessions with flaky filo pastry. to tourist tastes. Authentic meze, from local cheeses to ) Melitzanosalata A delicious savoury dip grilled snails, are washed down made by pureeing grilled with strong Cretan retsina aubergines with herbs, usually straight from the barrel. served with crusty bread. d Foundalidou 28 • Map Q4

For more places to eat and drink in Crete 73 See pp68–9, 70–71, 88–9, 100–101, 112–113 74 Crete’s Top 10 Café Zargos, Agios Nikolaos party onsummerweekends.party Chania’s younger residentsgoto evening (seealsop86) happy hourcanlastmostofthe dance clubs. Along thisstretch, videobarsandrestaurants, street islinedwithcocktail bars, for some30years, anditsmain townspot. Ithasbeenaparty Chersonisos asanightlife hot (see alsop86). mainly British)clientele A multinational(but of Crete’s bestbeaches. stretching alongone and guesthouses bars, clubs,restaurants become acontinuousstripof this former ﬁshingvillagehas for you. Notfar fromtheairport, animal, Chersonisosistheplace ! Left £ @ Buzzingbars, Chersonisos Platanias iswheremostofPlatanias Platanias Malia rivals itsneighbour Malia If you’re asummerparty Chersonisos Nightlife d MapL3 .

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AROUND THE ISLAND

Central Crete

78–89 CRETE’S TOP 10 Western Crete 90–101 Eastern Crete 102–113 Left Malia at sunrise Centre Café, Irakleio market Right Agia Galini harbour Central Crete HE LANDSCAPES OF CENTRAL CRETE include some of the island’s best Tbeaches, rolling farmland where vines and olives ﬂourish, and rugged mountains – among them, Crete’s highest summit, Mt Idi, or Psiloritis. This was the heartland of Minoan civilization, and the most important Minoan ruins lie just south of the island’s modern capital, Irakleio. Along the north coast are some busy holiday resorts, while on the south coast there are quieter, smaller places to enjoy a beach holiday in the sun.

Sights in Central Crete

1 Ancient Knosos 7 Mt Idi 2 Phaestos 8 Kaszantzakis Museum 3 Gortys 9 Agia Triada 4 Irakleio 0 Boutari Winery and Audio-Visual Show Around the Island – Central Crete 5 Diktian Cave 6 Lasithi Traditional Cretan gateway, Chersonisos

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78 Previous pages Preveli beach Around the Island – Central Crete 79 hall and a vast a vast hall and courtyard. central still undeci- The phered Phaestos was Disc, which here, is discovered in the on display Irakleio Archaeol- (see ogical Museum . Phaestos was p14) around destroyed the BC by 1450 cataclysm that also (see pp24–25). Gortys columns, a Roman Toppled £ The praetorium, Gortys The praetorium, laid low the rest of Crete’s the rest of Crete’s laid low as Minoan palaces. Not usually as the more famous crowded has Knosos, the site at Phaestos location on a an impressive farmland fertile hillside above (see pp20–21). ruined Byzantine basilica, post- ruined and an Minoan fortiﬁcations, agora, acropolis and remains of Apollo all Athena and temples to hint at the past glories of this arch- large and little-visited aeological site close to Crete’s in south coast. First settled Minoan times, it became one of the most important cities of Doric Crete. It later allied itself to become an with the Romans important capital, provincial and most Crete’s one of was prosperous cities until it was during Arab invaders by sacked of the 8th years the anarchic century AD Phaestos dating of ruins labyrinth This Ancient Knosos

South propylon, Knosos South propylon, Phaestos

@ ! pinpointed as an Knosos was site by important archaeological Schliemann the great Heinrich British arch- and unearthed by less than Arthur Evans aeologist columns, The ago. years 100 frescoes courtyards and coloured of this ancient Minoan palace to amaze. the power still have lost to historyKnosos was after eruption the cataclysmic volcanic the Minoan that destroyed civilization, but the site is now one of the most impressive of world relics of the vanished . the Minoans (see pp8–11) from around 1600 BC includes a BC includes a from around 1600 Minoan courtyard and theatre with tiers of stone seats, a monumental stairway, peristyle Irakleio harbour

Irakleio The Knosos Enigma? $ The modern capital of Crete Most archaeologists accept Sir was badly damaged in World War Arthur Evans’ view that the enig- II, and few of its old Venetian matic maze of ruins at Knosos buildings survived the reconstruc- was a royal palace, the bustling tion of the city. However, its hub of the greatest empire that Venetian fortress, harbour, arsenal the islands of the Aegean had and city walls are still impressive. ever seen. But a few “heretical” For a morning’s itinerary see archaeologists now claim that pages 82–3. The city’s main attrac- Knosos may actually have been a giant necropolis where kings and tion is the Irakleio Archaeological nobles were interred, as in the Museum (see pp12–15). tombs of ancient Egypt. The debate continues. Diktian Cave % According to ancient Greek Around the Island – Central Crete myths, this mossy cavern, filled white-sailed windmills that once with strange limestone forma- dotted the plateau in their hun- tions, was the birthplace of the dreds. However, Lasithi is still greatest Olympian god, Zeus. worth a visit for the spectacular Rhea, Zeus’s mother, supposedly drive through the mountains and hid the young godling from his the glimpses it offers of a father, Kronos, here. Bronze traditional way of life. d Map M4 figurines and Minoan double axes found in the cave are on Mt Idi show in the Irakleio Archaeol- & At 2,456 m (8,055 ft), Mt Idi, ogical Museum. The site is also which is also known as Mt Ida often referred to as the Idaian and Mt Psiloritis, is Crete’s Cave. d Map L5 highest mountain. Only fit, experienced and well-equipped Lasithi mountain walkers ^ The so-called should try the eight- “Plain of Windmills” is hour hike to its a high plain of fertile summit and back. farmland surrounded However, it is possible by bare grey lime- to drive as far as the stone hills. Its nick- Nida Plateau, 1,400 m name is misleading, (4,600 ft) above sea though. Only a few level, from which rusting metal derricks there are spectacular remain of the famed Ruin, Lasithi views. d Map G–H4

80 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Around the Island – Central Crete 81 Map H5 Map d Map K4 d Boutari Winery Winery Boutari and Show Audio-Visual ) Winery, At the Fantaxometochi Archanes south of Knosos near leading village, one of Greece’s has opened a state- winemakers show of-the-art audiovisual celebrating the island – its landscapes, history and traditional also high- show The of life. way and grape lights the vineyards produce some of that varieties award-win- the Boutari family’s can sample and You ning wines. red and white wines Boutari buy at the winery shop. Agia Triada Agia Because Agia Triada draws fewer fewer draws Triada Agia Because you visitors than the larger sites, of its honeycomb can explore stairsstone corridors, and court- pace. own at your yards • 3 km (2 of Phaestos • 28920 miles) west also Adm; daily • • 10am–4:30pm 91564 with Phaestos (pp20–21) combined ticket • 28107 31617 • 9am–5pm Mon–Fri Mon–Fri • 9am–5pm 31617 • 28107 Adm • 8:30am–4:30pm) (Nov–Mar: Map K4 • Mirtia village d , which is set is set Zorbas, which Alexis Agia Triada Agia Italian by Excavated Kazantzakis Museum Kazantzakis Cretan Nikos author

Anthony Quinn in the title role. title role. Quinn in the Anthony humanism outspoken Kazantzakis’ to regard church led the Orthodox author The him as a heretic. born in Mirtia, and a small was museum in the Kazantzakis home is crammed with family film his manuscripts and diaries, mem- posters, photos and other orabilia. archaeologists at the beginning at the beginning archaeologists is Triada Agia of the 20th century, smaller than other Minoan sites as Knosos and Phaestos such an aristocratic probably and was summer palace. villa or a royal Some of the finest Minoan including three carved pottery, discovered was stone vases, in the here and is displayed Museum. Irakleio Archaeological is only 3 km (2 miles) Triada Agia so can easily of Phaestos, west be visited on the same day. Kazantzakis (1883–1957) is best is best (1883–1957) Kazantzakis the for outside Greece known novel the early 20th in Crete during filmed in book was The century. , starring as Zorba the Greek 1964 The lower slopes of Mt Idi The lower

( * square, signposted • Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm square, signposted • Adm Sun • 10am–3pm daily; Nov–Mar: Left The harbour Right The Venetian Arsenal A Morning in Irakleio Porta Kenouria ! The most appropriate place to start exploring Irakleio’s Vene- tian heritage is this ornate arch- way through the city’s mighty walls, built in the mid-16th century by the Italian military engineer Michele Sanmichele. At this point, the walls are some 40 m (130 ft) thick, so it is not sur- Market stalls, Odos 1866 prising that they withstood 16th- century Ottoman artillery and Market everything else thrown at them. £ Leave Plateia Kornarou north of the fountain, along the market Pumphouse and Fountain street Odos 1866, among stalls @ Walk through the portal and selling fresh fruit, olives, dried along Evans, named after the fruit and nuts, and less familiar excavator of ancient Knosos, to produce such as buckets of live Around the Island – Central Crete Plateia Kornarou, named after snails. Midway along 1866, turn the writer of the Cretan epic left and walk along to Plateia poem the Erotokritos. In the Ekaterinis, where the main middle of this square stands a landmark is the pompous 19th- pretty, six-sided stone building, a century cathedral. café set within a pumphouse built by the Turks. Stop here, if Agia Ekaterini you like, for a coffee in the shade $ At the foot of the square, of plane trees. Beside the café is and more interesting than the the Venetian Bembo Fountain – cathedral, is this church which in note the broken, decapitated the 16th century was one of the marble torso of a Roman statue great schools of Cretan icon pain- built into its stonework. ting. Today it houses the world’s best collection of Cretan icons. d 10am– 3pm Mon–Fri • Adm

Plateia Venizelou % Leave Plateia Ekaterinis by its northwest corner, and walk east to Plateia Niko- forou Foka, then left to Plateia Venizelou. Venetian fountain The Morosini fountain

82 For more on Irakleio See pp12–15 & 80 Around the Island – Central Crete

Left Agia Ekaterini Right Venetian Fortress stands in the middle of the Venetian Fortress square, with two stone lions ( Built in 1523–40 to guard the standing sentinel. harbour approaches, the massive Rocca al Mare, as it was known San Marco and the Loggia to the Venetians, served its pur- ^ On the southeast side of pose well. Piles of cannonballs the square, the former Venetian in the inner chambers seem to Cathedral of San Marco, dedicat- await another assault. d 28102 ed to Venice’s patron saint, 88484 • Summer: 7:30am–8pm became a mosque and is now an daily; winter: call ﬁrst • Adm exhibition centre and conference hall. Leave the square by 25 Venetian Arsenal (Arsenali) Augoustou and walk past the ) On the way back from the Loggia. If this Venetian town fortress is a series of high stone hall looks suspiciously modern, vaults built into the wall behind blame restoration after earth- the harbour. These were the quake and bomb damage. Arsenali, or shipyards, where the great galleys that gave Venice its Agios Titos control of the sea were built. & Turn right immediately after the Loggia to ﬁnd Agios Titos (St Titus). Originally Byzantine, the church was rebuilt by the Venetians, turned into a mosque by the Turks and reclaimed by the Orthodox church in 1925. Inside, a reliquary contains the skull of St Titus. d 9am–5pm daily • Free Agios Titos Historical Museum * Returning to 25 Augoustou, turn left onto Theotokopoulou, Flavour of the Walk then left onto Gazi, which leads Crete’s bustling capital has a to the Historical Museum of Crete. wealth of relics of its Venetian The basement contains some past tucked away in nooks and corners among its more modern interesting Venetian stonework, buildings. Start this walk as early Turkish and Byzantine remnants as you can – Irakleio becomes and the only El Greco painting uncomfortably hot by early after- left in Crete. d 9am–5pm Mon–Sat noon. Allow three to four hours. (winter: to 3:30pm) • Adm

Following pages Nida Plateau and Mt Idi 83

Left Chersonisos resort Right Agia Galini beach Beaches Malia Bali ! A long strip of bars, clubs, % A small, purpose-built resort shops, hotels and apartments set around three coves sheltered lines the main coast highway at by cliffs. Avoid the crowds from Malia. The splendid sandy beach June to September. d Map H3 is crowded with sun loungers and umbrellas from early sum- ^ Dytikos (Lendas) mer until September. d Map M4 One of the longest beaches on the south central coast, @ Chersonisos Dytikos is popular with nudist A big, brash resort that may sunbathers. d Map J6 soon grow to merge with neighbouring Stalida and Malia. Kato Gouves (Gouvia) The beach is unarguably superb, & With its long stretch of sand and has an array of multinational and shingle and growing number bars and restaurants. d Map L3 of package holiday hotels, this is one of the better beaches close Matala to Irakleio. d Map L3 Around the Island – Central Crete £ A series of sandy coves separated by rocky headlands, Panormos Matala first attracted sun- * One of the less developed seeking hippy travellers in the beaches on the central north 1960s and graduated to become coast, Panormos has a small a small holiday resort in the sandy beach beside a miniature 1980s. d Map G6 fishing harbour and a few places to eat and drink. d Map G3 Agia Galini $ On a crescent bay where a Kaloi Limenes reed-lined river meets the sea, ( A relatively remote and peace- this is a classic fishing village ful series of small beaches and turned beach resort. d Map G5 coves among dramatic cliffs. But the offshore oil tanker terminal rather mars the view. d Map H6

Irakleio ) If you have time to kill while in the capital, head for the municipal beach at Amnisos, which is open from 9am to 7pm for a Matala small fee. d Map K3

86 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Around the Island – Central Crete 87 Map d Map J6 d Map K4 Adm d

Mt Kofinas Cretan by A mere hillock Irakleio Cretaquarium, just a 10-minute Situated Koudouma Monastery Koudouma monks of Koudouma The Minoan Villa Site, Vathypetrou Church of Agios Mikhail Mikhail Agios of Church Asomatos Arkhangelos, Map K4 • 28103 37788 • 9:30am–5pm Map K4 • 28103 daily (May–Sep: to 9pm) • daily (May–Sep: d ( ) & * presumably the was Vathypetrou home of a Minoan landowner, and ancient wine-making equip- on the site indicates ment found vineyards that the surrounding old. are thousands of years ^ leader Michael, Archangel The host, is known of the heavenly (the Taxiarchis” “O in Greek as in Brigadier) and is depicted in hand, along sword armour, frescoes with other saints in the 14th-century within the pretty Asomatos. at church K4 • 8am–3pm Wed–Mon • Free Wed–Mon K4 • 8am–3pm • Dawn to dusk daily • Donations welcome • Dawn standards, but still a challenging standards, but still a challenging climb (starting from Kapetaniana of Mt Idi village) with great views (see p53) and the south coast. Irakleio airport, this from drive aquarium is home to 2,500 from individual sea-creatures species. 200 Mediterranean live in enviable isolation in a tiny isolation in a tiny in enviable live monastery on a sandy beach fringed with palm trees. Map K4 d Adm

Palace of Malia Palace Map J4 • 23108 Map J4 • 23108 d Right Map K4 • 9:30am–3pm d (see p38). Best of the Rest Best of Archanes Archaeological Archaeological Archanes Museum Minoan Villa Minoan Villa Tylissos Site, inhabited more was Tylissos Looming to the south of to the south of Looming Mt Giouchtas Palace of Malia Palace Only 3 km (2 miles) inland Museum of Cretan Museum of Cretan Vori Ethnology,

Malia beach Malia beach

daily (summer only) • than 4,000 years ago, but the ago, but the than 4,000 years most interesting discoveries are the remains of three large Minoan villas. Archanes, Mt Giouchtas is the is the Mt Giouchtas Archanes, place of the god burial mythical remains of a Minoan The Zeus. the summit, sanctuary are below and the area has been declared a conservation area, with the aim of protecting eagles, vultures and other raptors. from the bustling resort of of from the bustling resort Minoan modern Malia, a ruined from the palace seems to grow . hillside (see pp34–5) rocky 31241 • 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm • 8:30am–3pm daily • 31241

% of town farming small The has a surprisingly good Archanes museum with finds from nearby Minoan sites, including clay of pottery, fragments coffins, and a sacrificial dagger that been used in human have may sacrifice. $

£ @

One of the ﬁrst museums to to One of the ﬁrst museums of ordinary celebrate the lives Cretans ! Left Left Taverna Street, Agia Galini Right New York bar, Chersonisos Bars and Cafés

Ciao, Irakleio Summer Café, Matala ! The big, breezy self-service ^ Situated right on the beach, café beside the Morosini Foun- this café-bar serves drinks, tain offers cold drinks, snacks, including fresh juices, all day pizza, pasta and cooked break- long. d Beach at Matala • Map G6 fasts. d Plateia Venizelou • Map K3 Acropol, Matala The Four Lions, Irakleio & Tucked away in a small @ A rooftop café open from street behind the Matala early morning until late at night. Bay Hotel, this café exudes It offers a panoramic view of the a typically Greek atmosphere. older part of Irakleio as well as Try one of the 12 different break- cold drinks, snacks, wines, spirits fasts or a dish of fresh fruit and and cocktails. d Plateia Venizelou yogurt. d Behind the Matala Bay Hotel

Kirkor Café, Irakleio Kipouli, Malia £ Start the day with a Cretan- * Virtually 24-hour drinking style breakfast of coffee and a is the main selling point of this Around the Island – Central Crete cream-ﬁlled pastry while bar, attracting those who like enjoying the view of the Lion to party all night and sleep on Fountain. d Liontara Square the beach all day. d Centre of Old Malia • 5:50am–2am the next day MoCafe, Irakleio $ Located opposite the Irakleio New York, Chersonisos Archaeological Museum, MoCafe ( On the beach close to the has a cool, arched interior with entrance of the harbour, New marble ﬂoor and an eclectic York starts the day as a beach collection of modern art on the bar serving breakfasts, snacks walls. It serves baguettes, juices, and cold drinks, and after sunset shakes, beers and metamorpho ses into a coffee. d Odos Sapoutiel noisy, lively music bar. d Map L3 Paradiso, % Agia Galini Hard Rock Cafe, Large music bar and ) Chersonisos restaurant close to The international Hard the harbour, which Rock brand offers a only gets going after familiar blend of cold dinner, then rocks beer, burgers and into the small hours, cocktails, attracting with loud music and locals and visitors. a young clientele. d East end of Eleftheros d Taverna Street • Map G5 Paradiso, Agia Galini Venizelou

88 For more restaurants, tavernas, bars, cafés and ouzeries See pp68–73 Around the Island – Central Crete 89 under €12 under € €12–€18 €€ €18–€24 €€€ €24–€32 €€€€ over €32 over €€€€€

Dedalou 10 • €€ Dedalou 10 d Stalida Beach Road Road Stalida Beach d Harbourfront (Main St) d Papandreou 109 • 28102 • 28102 109 Papandreou d Pink Flamingo, Sissi Pink Flamingo, Greek food Traditional Bar and Edem Beach Stalida Restaurant, Thalassina, Irakleio Thalassina, restaurant seafood has This Ammoudara Erotokritos, serves taverna This Minos, Irakleio Minos, is with yoghurt Lamb baked Kalon Limenon 27 • 2810 251378 • €€€ 251378 Kalon Limenon 27 • 2810 Price Categories Price a three-course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra This lively bar and restaurant lively This and into the is open all day are the house Pizzas evening. specialities. ( ) & d * ^ • 28410 71186 • €€ 71186 • 28410 52426 • 11am–midnight all year • €€ all year 52426 • 11am–midnight a wide array of freshly caught freshly caught of a wide array well- fish and shellfish, including prepared squid, cuttlefish, mussels and less challenging sea as lobster, such offerings wine The bass and grilled tuna. Greece. list comes from all over the speciality this unassum- of is restaurant which ing, cheerful as it as popular with Irakleians is with visitors. is served all day on a shady is served on a shady all day a warm receive Tourists terrace. Georgos from owner welcome most who grow and his family, of the ingredients used in the kitchen. traditional Cretan appetizers traditional Cretan appetizers and main courses. Its white wine is particularly from the barrel good. • 28970 34124 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€ • Closed Nov–Mar • 28970 34124 Leoforos Dimokratias Leoforos d Restaurants O Kyriakos, O Kyriakos, Irakleio Ta Grousouzadika, Grousouzadika, Ta Irakleio Hearty Cretan cooking in a I Erganos, Irakleio I Erganos, Cretan and Greek dishes as Cretan dishes as and Greek Giovanni, Irakleio Giovanni, Probably the best restaurant Probably Loukoulos, Irakleio Loukoulos,

Loukoulos restaurant, Irakleio restaurant, Loukoulos

Theodosaki 17, Irakleio • No tel • €€ 17, Theodosaki Georgiadou 5 • 2810 285629 • €€ Georgiadou 5 • 2810 Korai 12 • 2810 346338 • €€€€ • 2810 12 Korai Korai 5 • 2810 224435 • €€€€€ 5 • 2810 Korai family-run place. Specials include place. Specials include family-run soup) and a (meat sygouri selection of grilled meat dishes. well as Italian well and international cuisine in elegant surroundings. lobster with filet mignon à la The speciality. is a house de Paris Café in Irakleio, serving Italian cuisine (white surroundings in up-market linen tablecloths and candles in in a room decorated the evening) paintings. with antique prints and In traditional taverna style, you style, In traditional taverna you into the kitchen will be beckoned restaurant of this old-fashioned with smoke-stained, wood- your to choose panelled walls meal from bubbling pots or glass and cases filled with fish, chops vegetables. d % Old-fashioned grill restaurant Old-fashioned in lamb The area. market Irakleio’s steak, chicken and pork chops, and sausages are excellent. $ d £ d @ d ! Left 53 • 2810 222464 • €€ 53 • 2810 Left Firkas Fort, Chania Centre Market stall, Rethymno Right The beach at Rethymno Western Crete ESTERN CRETE IS IN MANY WAYS the most exciting part of the island. WMuch of the west is dominated by the jagged, treeless peaks of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), which may be capped by snow until June. Traversed by spectacular gorges, the mountains drop sharply to the Libyan Sea on Crete’s south coast. These mountains were for centuries the heartland of Cretan resistance to foreign occupiers of the island. Many of the remoter villages were accessible only on foot until the second half of the 20th century, and a traditional way of life lingered longer here than in other parts of the island. The west also has Crete’s two most attractive towns, Chania and Rethymno, and some of the best beaches, ranging from pebbly coves to long swathes of golden sand.

Sights in Western Crete

1 Rethymno 6 Sougia

Around the Island – Western Crete 2 Chania 7 Loutro 3 Samaria Gorge 8 Georgioupoli 4 Paleochora 9 Plakias 5 Frangokastello 0 Kastelli Kissamou Villager, Sougia

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90 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Around the Island – Western Crete 91 Samaria Gorge Samaria its name from Taking £ Mountains) rising steeply Mountains) steeply rising inland and a short way seeming to dominate the entire southern horizon . (see pp18–19) the tiny Venetian church church Venetian the tiny of Santa (close to Maria abandoned the now Samaria village), this is probably the most dramatic of scenery in Crete. stretch is one of the gorge The deepest and longest in Europe, cutting its way through through its way Europe, cutting Ori from the Omalos the Lefka Sea, and Plateau to the Libyan to a width of only a few narrowing point. arm widths at its narrowest is within the Samaria gorge The many a refuge for National Park, rare birds, plants and mammals (see pp26–7). Samaria Gorge Samaria most spectacular scenery as of the with the slopes backdrop, Ori range (White Lefka Rethymno Nerandzes Mosque, Mosque, Nerandzes . (see pp22–3 & 94–5) Chania second Chania, Crete’s Rethymno third is Crete’s Rethymno

Chania harbour largest city, is built around a ﬁne a attracted harbour which natural the millennia, over host of settlers from early Minoans to Romans, Venetians Byzantines, Saracens, heart of the city The is Turks. and a huddle of narrow the old town, a ring of streets sheltered by Venetians; the built by battlements one Chania was under their rule most important ports. of Crete’s is dominated the old town Today and bars, restaurants,by cafés walls Venetian while outside the part of town. is the newer Chania has some of Crete’s largest town (after Irakleio and Irakleio and (after largest town Chania) and its most with an inner attractive, a by harbour overlooked Venetian huge, brooding (the Fortetsa), fortress streets of old-fashioned a mansions, and Venetian palm-fringed esplanade along a sandy beach. to its nearby Thanks has Rethymno beaches, become a fully ﬂedged with holiday resort town, hotels east of the city centre, and lots of shops, restaurants, bars and cafés. It also has a colourful early morn- and Sat- Thursday on ing market urday

@ ! Paleochora

Paleochora Bandit Country $ Paleochora stands on a The Sfakia region lived by its own peninsula between two beaches: fierce laws for generations, and a long sandy bay to the northwest vendettas between local families and an even longer, but pebblier were not uncommon even a and more exposed beach, to the couple of generations back. southeast. Close to the centre of Prosperity and communications the village are the ruined walls of have tamed the region somewhat, a Venetian fort, Castel Selino, but many Sfakiots still have an illicit firearm or two (often of which was built to guard the World War II vintage) hidden away harbour and coast but left to in the attic – and in the remoter crumble after the Turkish conquest. parts it seems that no road sign “Discovered” by backpackers in has escaped target practice. the 1970s, Paleochora is now one of Crete’s quieter resorts, Around the Island – Western Crete with a low-key nightlife and a ^ Sougia family atmosphere. d Map B4 Sougia is perfect for anyone in search of peace, quiet and Frangokastello isolation. Tourism is very low-key, % A small, deserted “Castle of with just a scattering of small the Franks” – actually built in pensions and guest houses, 1371 by the Venetians to defend tavernas and cafés. The town’s this stretch of the south coast beach is long and pebbly, and against pirate attacks (see p40) – the water is sparklingly clear, gives this small fishing village while an hour’s walk away are and resort its name. The Lion of the ruins of the ancient city-state St Mark, symbol of the Venetian of Lissos, including a temple to Republic, still adorns the town’s Asklepios, the god of healing, southern gateway. Frangokastello which dates from the 3rd has a long sweep of grey sandy century BC. d Map C4 beach, and offers, by way of accommodation, small pensions and apartments. A handful of restaurants and cafés open up in summer, but the choice of places to eat, drink and stay is very limited in the low season. d Map E4 Sougia beach 92 Around the Island – Western Crete 93

Map B2 Map F4 d d out on the tourism out on the tourism boom, although it has a handful of hotels and restaurants. There are rarely visited several ancient and medieval including sites nearby, of Polyrinia the ruins (see p41), and there are reasonable – if by unexceptional Cretan standards – on either side beaches of town. Kastelli Kissamou Kastelli simply as Usually known Plakias Plakias is one of Crete’s ) ( Kastelli, Crete’s westernmost westernmost Kastelli, Crete’s between in a bay is couched town and Gramvoussa the Rodopou peninsulas. It has largely missed newer resorts. Its excellent resorts. Its excellent newer the by overlooked were beaches industryholiday until the 1990s, ﬁshing point, the tiny at which community began to and farming into a strip of purpose- transform built hotels (none of them large), apartments, obtrusively shops and restaurants. Not for authenticity, those looking for has plenty Plakias nevertheless it, including attractive going for countryside,surrounding its own of shingly sand, and long sweep beaches prettier lots more even within and palm-fringed coves distance.walking Plakias Map E3 d Georgioupoli Georgioupoli A modern community by Loutro of a stretch Sheltered by Loutro Right Loutro Map D4 Cretan standards, the town was Cretan standards, was the town a century ago over little founded named in honour when it was George, the of Prince of Crete. then governor a resort, with It is now along hotels stretching It the sandy beach. a less raucous attracts clientele than resorts as Malia and such Chersonisos, however, and the heart of Georgioupoli is a shaded square, town and eucalyptus by plane trees. headland and dwarfed by the the by headland and dwarfed slopes of the Lefka near-vertical Ori (White Mountains) above is one of the most it, Loutro Less spots on Crete. charming had ago Loutro than 30 years elderly inhabitants only a few has Tourism and one taverna. all that, and now changed and dazzling white pensions the tiny apartments sit above Accessi- crescent-shaped beach. a precarious (by ble only on foot boat from Chora or by path) cliff seems unlikely Loutro Sfakion, tourism, and by to be over-run holiday. a laid-back is ideal for d * Left & Left Rimondi Fountain Right Folk Art Museum A Morning in Rethymno Porta Guora ! Make an early start at Plateia Tessaron Martyron, the large square from which the Venetian Porta Guora – the only intact remnant of the Venetian city walls – leads into the old town. The Tessaron Martyron (Four Martyrs) Church at the northeast corner of the square honours four Cretans executed in 1824 by the Turks for remaining secretly Christian despite an Nerantzes Mosque apparent conversion to Islam. A pointed minaret by the church Nerantzes Mosque is all that is left of one of the $ At the north end of Ethnikis city’s Turkish mosques. Antistasis is the Nerantzes Mosque, the town’s best

Around the Island – Western Crete Around the Island – Western The Market preserved Ottoman relic dating @ Passing through the gate, back to the 17th century. It is walk north on Ethnikis Antistasis, now a music school and concert which bustles with produce hall, and its slender, pointed stalls, small open-fronted shops minaret can be seen from some and cafés serving tiny glasses distance. It was previously a of raki and cups of coffee. This is Catholic church dedicated to a great place to buy Cretan herbs, Santa Maria. Although the build- honey or olive oil to take home. ing has been fully restored, the original doorway remains. Agios £ Frangiskos Historical and Follow Ethnikis Anti- % Folk Art Museum stasis north to the Back at street level, Church of Agios turn left onto Vernardou Frangiskos (St Francis), and, midway along which was formerly on your left, step part of a Venetian into the Historical Roman Catholic and Folk Art Museum, monastery. The with its collection of doorway is beautifully tools, textiles and carved and the basilica traditional costume is still used by the (see also p22). d 28 town’s small Roman Vernardou • 10am–2:30pm Catholic community. Market ﬂower stall Mon–Sat • Adm

94 For more on Rethymno, see pp22–23 & 91 Around the Island – Western Crete 95

Nearchou Nearchou d Built by the Venetians, Venetians, the Built by Flavour of the Walk Venetian Harbour Venetian tour down Conclude your a pleasantly old-fashioned air, air, a pleasantly old-fashioned with narrow streets and lanes with narrow domes and spires of the city’s domes and spires of the city’s ers of its multi-cultural history. history. ers of its multi-cultural surviving used mosques – now town houses. Venetian and Turk- and Venetian houses. town lined with tall old stucco-fronted lined with tall old stucco-fronted This walk around the old quarter walk This ish drinking fountains are tucked ish drinking fountains are tucked takes no more than three hours. away down side streets, and the Rethymno’s old quarter preserves Rethymno’s for secular purposes – are remind- for Katechaki • 8:30am–8pm daily • Adm • 8:30am–8pm daily • Katechaki d ) Fortetza was built in response to the built in response to the was but in invasion, Turkish threat of for no match the end it proved Empire. the might of the Ottoman 45 • 28310 26475 • Apr–Oct daily 26475 • 45 • 28310 at the pretty Venetian (or Inner) (or Inner) Venetian at the pretty to a and treat yourself Harbour, Maria, at Mourayio lunch seafood building set in a 16th-century tables. with quayside • 8:30am– e fortress e fortress (see also (see also Palaiológou Palaiológou d (see also p36). 0 54668

(see also p23). The Fortetza the museum, cross From Rethymno Rethymno Museum Archaeological Rimondi Fountain Arabat- right again on Turn Venetian Loggia Venetian elegant 16th-century This

Cheimarras • 2831 Cheimarras Rethymno harbour Rethymno 3pm Tue–Sun 3pm Tue–Sun • Adm & Arkadíou • Mar–Sep daily • Adm daily • Arkadíou • Mar–Sep & Katehaki to the Fortetza, built in built in Katehaki to the Fortetza, Venetians the by 1573 pp22 & 40). This massiv zoglou, which leads down to to leads down zoglou, which a small square crammed Petihaki, a drink Stop for with cafés. an old- at Zanafoti, and snack close to the 17th- café fashioned built century Rimondi Fountain, to supply part of the old in 1627 fresh drinking water. with town

loggia is a poignant reminder of of loggia is a poignant reminder visible walls The reign. Venice’s equal semi-circular arches, have with the middle one serving as ﬂoor. the entrance to the ground a museum and art gal- It is now lery ( d

From the square, bear left past past the square, bear left From the fountain, along Mesolongiou and Himaras, to the Rethymno Museum, which Archaeological and Minoan cofﬁns displays as Neolithic burial goods, as well ﬁnds and Roman *

& ^

Left Falasarna Right Stavros Beaches

Preveli (Finikas) restorative swim in its cool ! The Kourtaliotis river meets waters after the downhill hike. the sea at Preveli, where the d Map D4 green river, blue sea, date palms and “Greek bamboo” (calamus Elafonisi reeds) create a tropical oasis ^ The superb beach opposite feel. d Map F5 the island of Elafonisi on the west coast is one of Crete’s Falasarna best, with a long crescent of @ This long sweep of yellow white sand and shallow turquoise sand is one of the ﬁnest on the water that warms up quickly in west coast, and has yet to be summer. Very busy. d Map A4 exploited by the tourist industry – though there are a few places & Sougia to stay. d Map A2 Shaded in places by a line of Tamarisk trees, Sougia’s position Platanias between Paleochora and Agia £ The best beach within easy Roumeli makes it ideal for a quick

Around the Island – Western Crete reach of Chania, and the village plunge for walkers treading a has plenty of places to eat and coastal route. d Map C4 drink. This is Chania’s after-dark summer playground, with pubs, * Marmara (Marble Beach) clubs and discos. d Map C2 A collection of sheltered coves lined with smooth white Stavros pebbles. Marmara attracts nude $ Quieter than Platanias, and sunbathers and can be reached so an attractive alternative for by boat from Loutro. d Map D4 those seeking a little tranquillity. The lagoon-like bay featured in the ( Glika Nera ﬁlm Zorba the Greek. d Map D2 (Sweetwater Beach) A tiny patch of pebble and sand Agios Pavlos reachable only by scrambling % At the foot of the Samaria along a rocky cliff path, or by Gorge, and so perfect for a boat from Loutro or Chora Sfakion. Often used by nudists. d Map D4

Damnoni ) Its golden sands have been somewhat marred by insensitive hotel building, but east of the main beach are smaller sandy coves, Ammoudi and Skinaria. Platanias d Map F4

98 Previous pages Frangokastello Around the Island – Western Crete 99 Map d Map B1–2 d Map D2 d Moni Gonia • Map B1–2 d War Cemetery War place of more burial The Rodopou Peninsula peninsula that A barren Peninsula Akrotiri to been drawn Monks have Aptera built on the A Byzantine town Peninsula Gramvoussa and barely remote The Monastery of Agia Irini Agia of Monastery restored 14th-century This Map D2 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Free Tue–Sun Map D2 • 8:30am–3pm ) * ( ^ d & % F3 • 9am–1pm, 4pm–sunset daily • 8am–12:30pm, 4–8pm daily • 8am–12:30pm, than 1,500 Allied soldiers who Allied soldiers who than 1,500 of Crete, died during the Battle 1941. in May attracted the Orthodox monks monks the Orthodox attracted who built the monastery of has several Moni Gonia, which ﬁne icons. best Akrotiri’s peninsulas – Crete’s monasteries are the abandoned Venetian and the Moni Katholikou (see p42). Moni Gouverneto site of a Hellenistic city, remains site of a Hellenistic city, remains cisterns, here include Roman Venetian a Byzantine foundations, fort. Turkish monastery and a Peninsula populated Gramvoussa best beaches has one of Crete’s where there are at Falasarna, remains of also the scattered a Hellenistic city. monastery a nunnery is now traditional and also a centre for and needlework. weaving Map H4 d Map D4 d Map G3 • 8.30am– d Best of the Rest Best of Polyrinia surround views Wonderful Archaia Eleftherna Archaia in 700 BC, ancient Founded Chora Sfakion Chora point for A major rendezvous Pleasant cafés and shops and shops Pleasant cafés Anogeia

Archaia Archaia Right Eleftherna Sfakion Chora

the broken walls and foundations and foundations walls the broken upon Acropolis, of this ancient stands an equally ruined which (see p41). fortress Venetian Eleftherna was a powerful Dorian Dorian a powerful was Eleftherna from history, vanished Having city. by rediscovered being it is now archaeologists. excursion groups who arrive by by groups who arrive excursion the Samaria walked boat having their found have Gorge. Once they to its returns the town coaches, pleasant slumber. conceal Anogeia’s embattled past, past, embattled Anogeia’s conceal a hotbed of resistancewhen it was it in who sacked Turks, against the and the Germans, and 1826, 1821 it in 1944. who levelled 7pm daily • Free

$ £

@ ! Moni Gonia, Rodopou Peninsula Moni Gonia, Left Left Synagogi Bar, Chania Centre Kafeneion O Minares, Rethymno Right La Jetee, Paleochora Bars and Cafés Hippopotamos Bar, Chania Kafeneion O Minares, ! This lively bar is a popular ^ Rethymno place for locals to meet friends A rare authentic taverna, serving and share a cocktail or a platter thimbles of Greek coffee and of delicious Mexican food. glasses of tsikondia (a strong d Sarpidona, Old Harbour spirit) to a clientele of venerable locals. d Plateia Petihaki Synagogi Bar, Chania @ This popular bar is set in The Water’s Edge Café, the large courtyard of a Venetian & Paleochora ruin that was once a synagogue. This delightful café on the east Cosy corner sofas and quiet side of Paleochora serves a wide music provide a low-key atmos- range of snacks all day and cock- phere. d 12 Skoufon St, Old Harbour tails in the evening. d Seafront

Point Bar, Chania Kafeneion Yannis, £ A small but lively bar. For a * Paleochora quieter drink take a table on the A simple, old-fashioned ouzeri on

Around the Island – Western Crete Around the Island – Western outdoor balcony and watch the the town’s main street. Don’t world go by in the square below. expect a list of sophisticated d Plateia Syntrivani, Old Harbour cocktails; do expect an authentic Cretan atmosphere. d Odos Venizelos Epohes (Four Seasons $ Bar), Chania La Jetee, Paleochora Dance the night away at this ( Attracting more holiday- fashionable bar on the west har- makers than locals, La Jetee’s bour. Alternatively, you can cool fancy drinks carry equally fancy down with a refreshing drink at prices. Overlooking the sandy one of the outdoor harbour front beach on the west side of Paleo- tables. d Akti Koundourioti, Old Harbour chora, it is at its liveliest in the evening. d Sandy Beach Raki Bar % Pandelis, Sougia Nostos Disco Old-fashioned wooden ) Bar, Paleochora chairs, marble-topped This is the best of tables and a vine- the music bars along covered verandah are Pebble Beach. Rock, part of the appeal. Its pop and the latest interior – a vaulted bar dance music is occa- with a wooden ﬂoor, sionally interspersed set in an old stone with Cretan dancing building – is attractive to traditional lyra too. d Sougia Kafeneion Yannis, Paleochora rhythms. d Pebble Beach

100 For more restaurants, tavernas, bars, cafés and ouzeries See pp68–73 Around the Island – Western Crete 101

under €12 under € €€ €12–€18 €€€ €18–€24 €€€€ €24–€32 East Beach East Beach over €32 €€€€€ over 20 Moschovitou 20 Moschovitou

d d 22 Xanthoudidou d Avli, Rethymno Avli, With its pretty • 28310 26213 • €€€€ 26213 • 28310 garden setting, this this garden setting, is one of the town’s ﬁnest. Mainly grilled and roasted meats, and Cretan favourites as apatzia such sausages and roasted goat. ^ traveldk.com Missiria • 28310 28814 • €€€ 28814 Missiria • 28310 d Oriental Bay, Bay, Oriental Paleochora Bloumosifi, tou Sterna Vamos Kyria Maria, Rethymno Maria, Kyria in the old taverna little This Zissi, tou Taverna Rethymno 28250 22932 • €€€ Price Categories Price a three-course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra • 28230 41322 • Closed mid-Oct–May • € • Closed mid-Oct–May • 28230 41322 Part of a restored 19th-century of a restored 19th-century Part serves stone village, this taverna Cretan in specialities baked . (see p70) ovens wood-burning d * 4 km On the old Irakleio highway, Zissi’s (2 miles) east of Rethymno, lamb and chicken charcoal-grilled the short trip from are worth town. ( restaurant quiet This serves Cretan and other Greek dishes and is very popular with locals. Pleasant courtyard. ) & • 28310 29078 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€€ 29078 • Closed Nov–Mar • 28310 quarter serves plain, village-style bustles in the dishes. It fairly but is quieter at lunch evenings time. Great value. Ela, Chania Ela, Kyria Maria, Rethymno Maria, Kyria

42 d Right 8 Katehaki • 28210 8 Katehaki • 28210 d Recommend your favourite restaurant on your favourite Recommend 12 Katehaki Sq, Old Harbour 12 Restaurants d Set in 13th-century vaults vaults Set in 13th-century Veneto, Rethymno Veneto, Karnagio, Chania Karnagio, Karnagio serves substantial Tamam, Chania Tamam, A wide range of Greek, Kariatis, Chania Kariatis, Italian renowned restau-This Within the Ela, Chania Ela,

Veneto, Rethymno Veneto,

4 Epimenidou • 28310 56634 • €€€€€ 4 Epimenidou • 28310 49 Zambeliou • 28210 96080 • €€€€ 49 Zambeliou • 28210 53366 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€€ 53366 • Closed Nov–Mar beneath the Veneto Hotel, the Hotel, the Veneto beneath the restaurant serves Cretan specialities within a beautiful with stone-ﬂagged ﬂoors, setting, mosaics and antique furniture. taverna meals, the traditional the traditional meals, taverna grilled meats including favourites and huge peasant salads with cheese. feta Levantine and Cretan dishes, and Cretan dishes, Levantine of non-meat choice with a better dishes than most of its rivals. courtyard of an old courtyard of an old mansion, Ela Venetian serves menu, a wide including standard Greek dishes and a authentically few Cretan offerings. rant serves a wide variety of rant serves variety of a wide tasty dishes and is set in beauti- Venetian among ful surroundings ruins. Kondylaki • 28210 74128 74128 • 28210 Kondylaki €€€ • • Closed Nov–Mar d

% $

d £

@ ! Left • 28210 55600 • From 7pm • €€€€€ 55600 • From • 28210 Left Ancient bath, Archaelogical Museum, Agios Nikolaos Centre Siteia Right Market, Siteia Eastern Crete RETE’S FAR EAST is a little less rugged than the wild west, and less Cpopulous than the central region of the island. It also sees rather fewer package holidaymakers, mainly because of its remoteness from the island’s airports. That said, the region’s largest town, Agios Nikolaos, is a thriving holiday resort, while Crete’s most expensive and exclusive hotel and villa complexes can be found around Elounda, on the Gulf of Mirabello. The east also has good beaches, on its north, south and east coasts, notably the famous palm beach at Vai, and there are Minoan ruins to be seen at Gournia, Mochlos, Zakros and elsewhere.

Sights in Eastern Crete 1 Agios Nikolaos 6 Makrygialos 2 Siteia 7 Spinalonga 3 Vai 8 Ierapetra Around the Island – Eastern Crete 4 Zakros Gorge 9 Lato 5 Elounda 0 Mochlos Agios Nikolaos

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Agios Nikolaos harbour

Agios Nikolaos groves and vineyards. It has a ! Agios Nikolaos has the most picturesque harbour overlooked attractive location of any town in by a Venetian fortress and an eastern Crete. By the Gulf of Archaeological Museum (see Mirabello, it is built around an p36) . Siteia is becoming an inner lagoon, Voulismeni, which important area for the production is surrounded by palm trees and of quality Cretan wines. d Map Q4 cafés. Modern hotels and apartments dwarf the surviving older Vai buildings, but it is still a place of £ The main claim to fame of considerable charm. There is a the beach at Vai is in having the small town beach, and boats only wild palm grove in Europe. take holiday-makers to larger The palm forest apparently beaches nearby. The town takes existed at least 2,000 years ago, its name from the tiny 11th- so may have been planted by century church of Agios Nikolaos early navigators from the Middle (which now stands in the grounds East who came to Crete. The of the Minos Palace Hotel. The drawbacks are that the palm trees Archaeological Museum (see are fenced off and protected, pp36–7) displays numerous ﬁ nds and the beach becomes overrun from nearby sites including with visitors in high season. Mochlos and Gournia. d Map N4 Nevertheless, it is beautiful, especially if visited outside the @ Siteia busiest summer months of June, Siteia looks surprisingly July and August. d Map R4 modern but was founded in the 4th century, when a ﬂ ourishing Byzantine city stood here. Its fortunes waned after the 14th century, when it was damaged by earthquakes and sacked by corsairs. It was not until the late 19th century that Siteia became an important farming centre, surrounded by olive Vai 103 Left Zakros Gorge Right Taverna, Kato Zakros

Zakros Gorge $ The Zakros Gorge is known The Caves of Crete locally as the Valley of the Dead About 5,000 caverns and because the numerous caves in potholes riddle the island’s its limestone walls were used as mountain slopes. Grottoes have yielded fascinating relics of the tombs in Roman times. The ancient world, indicating that gorge runs from the peaceful Crete was inhabited for thou- village of Ano (“upper”) Zakros sands of years before the rise of to Kato (“lower”) Zakros on the the Minoan civilization. Only a sea, near an ancient Minoan handful have been fully charted, palace site rediscovered in 1961. and thousands more remain to be It is a beautiful and not too fully explored and mapped. challenging 8-km (5-mile) hike (see also p53). d Map Q5 Around the Island – Central Crete trips to Spinalonga, the Venetian % Elounda fortress-island and former leper Elounda, on the Gulf of Mira- colony not far offshore. d Map N4 bello, is Crete’s most expensive resort area, with several exclu- Makrygialos sive villa and hotel complexes in ^ Makrygialos is the most landscaped grounds. Several of popular holiday resort on the these even have private beaches. southeast coast, with a long, The village itself is less up- straggling array of small pensions, market, with a clutter of shops hotels and tavernas stretching and restaurants surrounding a along a crescent of rather wind- small ﬁshing harbour from which swept, gently shelving sand and boats depart daily in summer on pebble beach, which is the best in this part of the island. d Map P5

Spinalonga & The fortiﬁcations covering this small, rocky island in the Gulf of Mirabello were built by the Venetians in 1579 to control the approaches to this Elounda harbour superb natural

104 For the archaeological site of Gournia see pp30–31 harbour. Superior sea power allowed Venice to hang onto Spinalonga for half a

century after the fall Around the Island – Central Crete of the rest of Crete to the Turks, and it was surrendered only in 1715. Used as a leper colony in the first half of the 20th century, its Ruins on Spinalonga buildings are now very dilapidated, but the grim walls Lato may still give the visitor an eerie ( Modern-day Agios Nikolaos thrill. d Map N4 was once no more than the seaport annex of this Dorian Ierapetra Greek city which flourished * Ierapetra is the largest town between the 7th and 3rd on the southeast coast. Its build- centuries BC. Built around two ings are rather dull, but it has a neighbouring hills, 8 km (5 miles) good, long beach of grey sand west of Agios Nikolaos, Lato is and the distinction of receiving the best preserved Dorian site in more hours of sunshine per year Crete, with walls built of than anywhere else in Europe. massive stone blocks. There are Huge crops of tomatoes are fine views over the Gulf of raised all year round in the sur- Mirabello from its agora (market- rounding farmlands. Ierapetra place) in a saddle between the became an important Dorian twin summits. d Map M4 Greek settlement as early as the • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm 8th century BC, and by the 2nd century BC it was the largest Mochlos city-state on the island after defeat- ) Mochlos, 32 km (20 miles) ing its Eteocretan neighbours, east of Agios Nikolaos on the Praisos and Itanos. Under the coast road, is a tiny fishing ham- Romans it was an important sea- let with a handful of tavernas. port; the Venetians built a fortress Just offshore is the island of to defend the harbour. d Map N6 Mochlos, which in ancient times was connected to the mainland by an isthmus. This has been eroded by earthquakes and waves. On the island are the remains of Minoan houses and a Minoan harbour, much of which is now under water. Seal stones, superb gold jewellery and vases carved from quartz, alabaster and black steatite have been discovered in rock tombs on the island and are displayed in the Agios Nikolaos and Siteia arch- Myrtos beach, near Ierapetra aeological museums. d Map P4 105 Left Ancient steps, Gournia Centre Boat near Vai Right Heron, Zakros A Day’s Drive in Eastern Crete Gournia Moni Toplou ! Early in the morning, on $ A 10-km (6-mile) drive from any day except a Monday, head Siteia takes you along the north east out of Agios Nikolaos on coast to Moni Toplou, a fortified the main coast highway. Gournia monastery founded in the 14th is south of the road, 24 km (15 century, with sturdy stone walls miles) east of Agios Nikolaos. Try around an inner courtyard with to arrive when it opens at 8:30am three tiers of tiny monks’ cells. and allow a couple of hours to Its small church holds some explore this well preserved Mino- remarkable icons, including one an site (see pp30–31). d Map N5 of the finest in Crete, Lord Thou Art Great, by Ioannis Kornaros Mochlos (see also p57). d Map Q4 @ Leaving Gournia, drive on along the coast highway to Vai Mochlos, 11 km (7 miles) east % A further 6 km (4 miles) of Gournia. This tiny fishing brings you to Vai (see p103), the hamlet has a handful of tavernas, easternmost point of this drive, Around the Island – Eastern Crete and a small boat will take you on a peninsula which stretches to the pretty island where the towards Crete’s northeast tip foundations of Minoan houses (inaccessible as it is a military can be seen. d Map P4 area). Vai’s famous palm forest is now a conservation area. The Siteia beach is very crowded in high £ Once a Byzantine city, Siteia was destroyed in the 14th century, then rebuilt by a local pasha (Otto- man governor) in the late 19th century (see p103). It has a picturesque harbour overlooked by a Venetian fortress and an Archa- eological Museum with Minoan treasures. Stop for coffee, a cold drink or a snack at Zorbas, an old-fashioned café and taverna on the harbour (see p113). d Map Q4 Harbour life, Siteia

106 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Around the Island – Eastern Crete 107 Map N6 d (in Greek and English). Flavour of the Tour This round trip from Agios Agios round trip from This the way are well signposted signposted are well the way Ierapetra to It is a 45-minute drive places mentioned. Roads are places mentioned. Roads Nikolaos covers around 200 km around 200 covers Nikolaos to stop off at some of the other to stop off mostly well surfaced, and trafﬁc and trafﬁc surfaced, mostly well give yourself time to explore the time to explore yourself give (125 miles). Allow one full day to one full day Allow miles). (125 is light. All sights and stops along is light. archaeological site at Gournia and site at Gournia and archaeological Map P5 swim at Makrygialos, a popular swim at Makrygialos, a popular resort with the best beach island. in this part of the beach evening your Either stay here for meal or continue to Ierapetra. d ) Ierapetra, the largest town on on Ierapetra, the largest town the southeast coast, passing rank on rank of greenhouses, produce bumper crops which of tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers. Ierapetra – originally Crete’s – was named Ierapytna most important Dorian Greek city in the 2nd century BC Cretan most . Unlike (see p105) is still more Ierapetra towns, than in the interested in farming business and is holiday package a good place to glimpse every- here, it’s on Crete. From life day drive a 32-km (20-mile) evening Nikolaos. Agios to back Map Q5 Map Q5 d Map R4 d d Ierapetra harbour Ierapetra Map Q5 Right d (see p35). (see p35). The south coast of Crete coast of Crete south The Makrygialos Lithines main road and the Rejoin Praisos Kato Zakros, retrace From Zakros south, turn Vai, visiting After

Via Via beach

Left

( *

& ^ season, but for a little more more a little season, but for 20– for can walk seclusion you 30 minutes to the less crowded at Itanos. coves is now only 10 km (6 miles) km (6 miles) 10 only is now a late afternoon Stop for away. drive south for 8 km (5 miles) 8 km (5 miles) for south drive to the village of Lithines, built of the aristocratic tenants by in about the 10th Lithinos family a ghost village, Now AD. century it has two ﬁne 15th-century churches. your tracks as far as Ano Zakros, Ano Zakros, as as far tracks your miles) km (11 18 for then drive through the villages of Ziros and Chandras to the ancient site at Praisos through the small villages of of through the small villages Adra- Azokeramos, Palaiokastro, Ano Zakros, where and vasti 8 km (5 miles) east for turn you road to reach a narrow down Kato Zakros, on the sea. Stop at the Zakros ﬁsh lunch a here for the time and have If you Taverna. the Minoan inclination, explore palace

Left Siteia Centre Xerocampos Right Mirtos Beaches

Vai sand interspersed with pebbles ! Vai’s beach is certainly the shelves gently into deeper water. most scenic in eastern Crete, d Map P5 with yellow sand and a grove of date palms giving it a truly ^ Mirtos tropical appearance. d Map R4 An amiably unpretentious farming and fishing village with a Siteia long, south-facing shingle beach, @ Unlike most larger Cretan which is far less crowded than coastal towns, Siteia has a most in eastern Crete, even in perfectly good beach right on its high summer. d Map M6 doorstep that is great for windsurfing. d Map Q4 Kouremenos & Kouremenos is less than Xerokampos ideal for sunbathing because of £ A tiny village with a series of strong breezes for most of the small, sandy east-facing coves, year. Those same breezes, one of the few coast places not however, make it a favourite Around the Island – Eastern Crete yet discovered by the package windsurfing spot, with best tourism industry. d Map Q5 conditions in summer usually in the afternoon. d Map R4 Kato Zakros $ At the foot of the Zakros Chionia Gorge, Kato Zakros has a cres- * Rates a European Blue Flag cent of sand and pebble beach, for clean sand and water. There with a small fishing harbour and are even better, more secluded a handful of pensions and beaches to the south. d Map R4 tavernas. d Map R5 Milatos Makrygialos ( A pebbly beach and surpri- % The best beach on the singly uncrowded compared with southeast coast. A long strip of the teeming resorts only a few kilometres to the west. d Map M4

Istro ) Looks spectacular from a distance, with a sandy beach hemmed in by cliffs. But it is often heavily littered with ﬂotsam Beachside taverna, Kato Zakros and jetsam. d Map N5 110 Around the Island – Eastern Crete 111

Map Q5 Map R4 d d Map Q5 Map Q5 Voila Deserted medi- d d eval village in rolling village in rolling eval hill country, with a dilapidated Venetian standing guard tower roofless cottages. over of church small The is well Georgios Agios preserved. ) Map Q6 • 8:30am–noon, 4–7pm d Pefki Gorge Pefki from Pefki walk A four-hour Rousa Eklisia visiting village worth Pretty Lithines the its founders, Named for Moni Kapsa A monastery that seems to Map P5 ( d ^ & * golden sand. The scant remains scant remains The golden sand. of an ancient city can be seen on hills beyond. the low to Makrygialos will take you to Makrygialos will take you along a dry bed of white river through a pebbles that runs formations. rock of weird canyon for its superb view of the bay. of the bay. its superb view for the Large plane trees shade village square, and a stream to fountain next a natural feeds an old church. nobles, Litinos clan of Byzantine the village has two 15th-century Athanasios Agios and churches, Tis Panagias. with the merge into the cliffs, mummified body of a monk in its chapel. Moni Kapsa Lithines Right Map M5 d (see p35). Centre , (see p104) Map R5 d (see p42). Other Attractions Other Itanos Itanos has Vai, of north Just Kritsa Mt Kastel- by Overlooked Pelekita Cave, Kato Zakros Kato Cave, Pelekita miles) 2 km (1.5 Just Moni Toplou monastery Fortified founded Based on clay statuettes and and statuettes on clay Based Praisos

Handwoven rugs, Kritsa Kritsa rugs, Handwoven

three small pebble and shingle three small pebble and shingle as that are never beaches of stretch Vai’s as crowded leos, Kritsa stands at the edge of plain and is a wide and fertile most regarded as one of Crete’s centres. important craft northeast of Kato Zakros village village northeast of Kato Zakros hundred metres north and a few of the Zakros Gorge is one of the cavern the Pelekita longest in Crete. in the 14th century. Its massive Its massive century. in the 14th built to protect it were walls from pirates inscriptions found here, archaeol- inscriptions found a post- it was ogists believe Minoan Eteocretan city

Itanos %

$ £

@ ! Left Café du Lac, Agios Nikolaos Bars and Cafés Café du Lac, Alexander’s Roof Garden ! Agios Nikolaos % Bar, Agios Nikolaos Ices, cocktails, soft drinks, freshly Dance all night or relax on the squeezed orange juice and milk balcony with a drink while enjoy- shakes. Also has an Internet café ing the views at this bar situated area where you can pick up your next to the lake. d Lakeside email. d 28 Oktobriou 17 Kafenio Rakadiko, Siteia Café Zygos, ^ This traditional kafeneion is @ Agios Nikolaos situated right on the waterfront, Bar with a lake view and garden overlooking the harbour (see terrace shaded by greenery – a p73). d E Venizelos 159 romantic place to laze away an afternoon or enjoy a pre-dinner Hellas, Elounda cocktail or after-dinner digestif. & One of the livelier spots d Palaeologou in town, with live Cretan music and Greek pop most weekends. The Gecko Bar, d Elounda village; closed Nov–May Around the Island – Eastern Crete £ Makrygialos Open until the early hours of Veterano, Ierapetra the morning, this beachside bar * A fashionable terrace café offers a cocktail hour and free ideal for a leisurely breakfast and use of sunbeds, umbrellas and just as good for a sundowner. Wi-Fi access. d Seafront d Plateia Eleftherias

Odeion, Ierapetra Ouzeri Manos, Ierapetra $ On a summer evening, the ( A good spot for leisurely garden of this graceful Neo- ouzo sipping and meze snacking, Classical building is an especially amid a string of tavernas, bars pleasant place to quaff a drink and cafés that stretch between and absorb the last of the day’s the Venetian Fortress and the sun. d Lasthenou, off Plateia Venizelou ferry pier. d Samouil

Amnesia, Kato ) Zakros The place to go after dark if you are looking for more than a quiet brandy, if only for the fact that this is the resort’s sole gesture towards an upbeat Café Zygos, Agios Nikolaos nightlife. d Seafront

112 For more restaurants, tavernas, bars, cafés and ouzeries See pp68–73 Around the Island – Eastern Crete 113 under €12 under € €€ €12–€18 Harbourfront €€€ €18–€24 €€€€ €24–€32 d over €32 €€€€€ over

Korakaiand Katehaki Korakaiand On the harbour d d Kalamokanias Beach d traveldk.com Marilena, Elounda Marilena, is what Grilled fresh seafood Poulis, Elounda Village Elounda Poulis, visitors, Catering mainly for Restaurant, Stratos Makrygialos Makrygialos Porphyra, of setting In the unlikely Makrygialos • 28430 52189 • Closed Makrygialos • 28430 52189 Price Categories Price a three-course For with half one meal for of wine (or a bottle meal), taxes equivalent charges. and extra • 28410 41322 • Closed Nov–Feb • €€€ • Closed Nov–Feb 41322 • 28410 Oct–May • €€€ Oct–May Marilena, Elounda Marilena, d ) & * served Delicious ﬁsh meals are here along with traditional Cretan favourites. ( • 28430 52357 • €€€ • 28410 41451 • Closed Nov–Apr • €€ • Closed Nov–Apr 41451 • 28410 • 28410 25737 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€ 25737 • Closed Nov–Mar • 28410 Marilena does best, though it Marilena does best, though it also serves other Greek dishes, created with an appealing light- ness of touch. the menu encompasses Greek Greek the menu encompasses a long and international dishes, and a list of grilled seafood reasonable wine list. Makrygialos, and cheerful cheap serves a gourmet Porphyra menu of uniquely Cretan dishes. its seafood. Its courtyard suits suits Its courtyard its seafood. summer dining. Beachfront Beachfront d . (see p126) Fish from Zakros Fish from Seafront • 28430 d Right trees. Elounda Mare Hotel • 28410 Elounda Mare Hotel • 28410 Recommend your favourite restaurant on your favourite Recommend d Places to Eat Places Taverna Pelagos, Pelagos, Taverna Nikolaos Agios Kalliontzis, Koutsouras Kalliontzis, offers taverna friendly This Tavern Kato Zakros Bay, Bay, Zakros Kato Tavern Zakros Kato Zorbas, Siteia Zorbas, A long-established taverna Kalidon, Elounda Kalidon, Dining aboard a floating The most luxurious restaurant The The Old Mill, Elounda The Old Mill,

Zorbas, Siteia Siteia Zorbas,

Elounda Harbour • 28410 41451 41451 Elounda Harbour • 28410 Harbourfront • 28430 22689 • €€ home-cooked meals, set at meals, set at home-cooked by outside tables overhung tamarisk serving freshly grilled ﬁsh and traditional Cretan dishes, lobster, meats and meze. charcoal-grilled pontoon moored in Elounda’s pontoon moored in Elounda’s a mix with small ﬁshing harbour, dishes. of Greek and international in eastern Crete, situated in the in the in eastern Crete, situated Elounda Mare Hotel menu combines the best of The cuisine. Greece with international essential; dress code Booking formal. 41102 • Closed Nov–Mar • €€€€€ • Closed Nov–Mar 41102 51207 • Closed Nov–Apr • €€ • • Closed Nov–Apr 51207

A fine old taverna close to the close to the A fine old taverna noted locally for fishing harbour, ^

% $ the sea, overlooking On a terrace this restaurant serves ﬁsh, game and vegetarian meals.

d £ d

@ ! Left • 28430 26887 • Closed Nov–Apr • €€ • 28430 26887 • Closed Nov–Apr • • € Closed Nov–Mar

STREETSMART

Getting To and Around Crete 116 General Information CRETE’S TOP 10 117 Things to Avoid 118 Special Interest Holidays 119 Eating and Drinking Tips 120 Shopping Tips 121 Budget Ideas 122 Tips for Families and the Disabled 123 Banking and Communications 124 Health and Security Tips 125 Where to Stay 126–131 116 Streetsmart ! Left $ £ @ many otherGreekislands. lines connectCretewith and AegeanOlympic Air- ter toIrakleioinsummer. (Gatwick) andManches- flies directfromLondon and carrental. age withaccommodation flights aresoldasapack- in earlyOctober. Most with thelastreturn flight late April orearlyMay, first departures arein cities insummer. The and largemainlandEU most airportsintheUK Chania andIrakleiofrom holiday companiesflyto owned by largepackage Irakleio orChania. a connectingflightto to fly Athens andtake way ofgetting toCreteis expensive thanbooking on thespotisoften more town inCrete.Renting airport, resortandmajor companies atevery international carrental more oftheCyclades. a few nightsononeor island-hop, stayingfor popular optionisto Rethymno. Another toChaniaand services are also(lessfrequent) Irakleio onCrete. There port of Athens, and between Piraeus,the overnight, everynight, Long-distanceferry Charter airlines Charter Flights The onlyyear-round Scheduled Flights There arelocal and Car Hire Fast ferries sail Ferries Getting To andAroundCrete Previous pages easyjet Centre Localbus Anogeia Agia Roumeli andLoutro. once aday, calling at putter alongatleast In summer, smallboats south coastisby boat. Chora Sfakion on the between Sougiaand The onlyway totravel & ^ % * rates inEurope. of theworst accident times –Greecehasone and cautiouslyatall firm. Drive defensively in advance withamajor tourist offices. available fromlocal areusuallytimetables villages. English-language tures even toremote there areregulardepar- Tickets arecheap and meet localpeople. way toseeCrete and are acheap andcheerful by theKTELconsortium Mercedes saloons. cles areusuallymodern some English,andvehi- off. Mostdrivers speak agree itbefore setting is usuallyafixed price– but for longertripsthere journeys aremetered, towns andvillages.Short long journeys between not onlyintowns buton affordable, andoperate the awesome mountain is agreatway toexplore Local busesoperated Buses Boats Local Taxis aresurprisingly Taxis Mule orpony trekking Riding Right Vehicles for hire (see alsop118). be worn atalltimes andshould compulsory off-track. Helmetsare both onbusyroadsand caution shouldbeused, visitors. However, great is popularwithsummer Two-wheeled transport ) ( few motorroads. where therearestill Ori (WhiteMountains), oftheLefka scenery September–October). and autumn (late in spring(April–May) Cycling isbestenjoyed territory.mountain-biking roads which areideal of farm tracks andjeep are hundredsofmiles busy highway, there north coastandits www.olympicair.com 21035 50500, www.hellas-jet.com ktel.com http://bus-service-crete- Buses www.ferries.gr Ferries • com 61700, www.aegeanair. Aegean21062 Air Airlines • Chania 28210 83800 Airports Directory Olympic Irakleio28103 97800 Scooters Motorbikes and Away fromthe Bicycle • HellasJet Streetsmart 117 See • Locked church Locked Useful Accessories Electricity Greece uses the Clothing A sun-hat and sun- 171 GNTO www.gnto.gr Directory Line Info Tourist also pp12, 18 & 22 18 also pp12, clothing (long trousers trousers clothing (long men, over-the-knee for is women) skirts for required when visiting monasteries and churches. sunbathing is Topless generally tolerated, but nude bathing is restricted to designated beaches. ) is good in A small torch street places with little least a at Take lighting. plan if you litre of water Mos- an easy walk. even quito repellents are sup- plied in most guesthouses. and mask, and A snorkel compact binoculars are to want handy if you observe wildlife. * ( standard European electrical AC 220V/ 50Hz two Plugs have supply. round pins. glasses are essential. glasses are essential. In spring and autumn, or sweater a light wool fleece and a light wind- proof and waterproof are useful. Good jacket boots are a must walking serious hiking.for Right cities, cities, . kafeneion Sign about etiquette Sign about etiquette Etiquette a few Speaking even Opening Hours Opening hours on Tourist Offices Offices Tourist in Crete Centre words of the language of the language words in wonders works often establishing a rapport with Cretans. Modest Crete are erratic. Use the Use the Crete are erratic. in this book times given as a rough guide only. museums Most state-run sites and archaeological are open around 8:30am– 3pm and close on Mon- reopen Some may days. or stay open to 7 or 8pm Monasteries, in summer. and churches convents are generally open during hours but close daylight two to three hours for Some in the afternoon. be may smaller churches is usually the key locked: held in the nearest village shop or Hellenic Tourist Hellenic Tourist Organisa- to by tion and referred EOT, its Greek acronym, in all European has offices capitals, major US and in Australia and and Australia and in South Africa. & ^ EOT has offices in in has offices EOT Irakleio, Chania and There Rethymno. are also local tourist offices All in the major resorts. English-speaking have who can provide staff maps, bus timetables, and lists of places to stay and things to see. Most will also help you to find accommodation. % General Information General

Tourist Offices Offices Tourist Abroad Customs from other Visitors Passports Passports and Visas When To When To Go January December, Local tourist information centre centre information Local tourist

EU countries are not subject to customs formali- export ties. Unauthorized of antiquities and works of art is a serious offence. If bringing prescription also bring with you, drugs of the prescription a copy and, if possible, a letter doctor to say from your need them. you why and February are cold and cold and are and February on the with snow wet, mountains. Spring ﬂowers begin to appear in March, but sunbathing is not a April, and real option until rain is possible until May. start to Temperatures climb seriously in June, peaking at 35°C or higher October can be in July. days beautiful, with sunny and cool nights, and even can be a good November sightseeing, month for beach. the though not for Most accommodation closes between Nov–Mar.

$ Greek National The Organisation, Tourism as the also known £ UK visitors require a UK visitors require a passport; most other EU nationals require only identitya valid card. Citi- Canada, of the USA, zens Zealand and New Australia a do not require visas for stay of up to 90 days. @ ! Left 118 Streetsmart ! Left $ £ @ alcohol you consume. water for each unitof drink anexra halflitreof aggravated by alcohol– a hat.Symptoms canbe ofwaterplenty andwear in July or August, drink ridinghiking ormountain not attempt strenuous risk inhighsummer. Do late afternoon. shade frommidday until cool, andtaketothe make itseemdeceptively when theseabreeze can especially onboattrips, screen orsunblock, Use ahigh-factor sun- punishing asearly April. sun,whichCretan canbe the burningpower ofthe pulled outwithtweezers. off in thewound, can be The spines,which snap you walk in shallow water. bare feet. Watch where wound ifstepped onin and caninflictapainful infest mostrocky beaches in shopsallover Crete. trical deterrent pad,sold oil. Indoors,useanelec- or theorganiccitronella diethyltoluamide (“deet”) deterrents containing they canbekeptby away cisterns. Outofdoors, ponds, streamsand mosquitoes breedin many partsofCrete, Seaurchins Heatstroke isanother Heatstroke Never underestimate Sunburn Spiky blackSpiky seaurchins Sea Urchins A night-timepestin Mosquitoes Things toAvoid Share your travelrecommendations on Centre Motorbikes andscooters do takeatumble. shorts and T-shirt ifyou more protectionthan which give you abit trousers andajacket, long times. Wear wear ahelmet at all you mustrenta bike, stick tofour wheels.If inexperienced should experienced bikers. The evenin Creteisrisky, for crop ofaccidents.Riding and each year bringsits cheerful two-wheeler, scooter rentacheap and riding amotorbike or previous experience of Many visitorswithno & ^ % reduce inflammation. and creamwillalso tablet an antihistamine an effective remedy,and mild ammoniasolutionis Rinsing withvinegarora inflict apainfulsting. harmless butsomecan beaches. Mostare occasionally infest Cretan tsouchtres inGreek, when humansapproach. snakesCretan willflee not, onsight,andall any snake, venomous or Greek villagerswillkill venomous bite).Most hasathe mountains, thing onsunny rocks in adder, rarelyseensunba- lethal bite(thoughthe and noneofwhich have a are completelyharmless snakes, mostofwhich Jellyfish, called Jellyfish Motorbike Renting a Crete hasnumerous Snakes Right Sunwithoutshade traveldk.com ( * barred by aredstripe. symbol ofacamera signposted withthe Prohibited sites are be charged withspying. bours), oryou are likely to vessels (even incivilhar- ornavaland mountains), around Crete’s coasts tions (which aredotted bases orradarinstalla- adjoin civilairports),army airfields(which oftentary take photographsofmili- Force warplanes. Donot photographs ofGreek Air espionage after taking arrested andconvicted of in 2002,whenthey were plane-spotters discovered asagroupofBritishrity, issues ofnationalsecu- extremely sensitive on Greek authoritiesare ) Installations will notattack ifleft alone. drinking fountains,but around poolsofwater or often seenhovering led orprovoked. They are and shouldnotbehand- painfulstinginflict avery black cousinsofthewasp a firm “no” for ananswer. supply it.Mostwilltake more thanhappy to holiday romance,andare on anauthenticGreek female visitorsareintent are convinced that These amateurgigolos summer phenomenon. kamaki (“harpooner”)isa Military Photographing These large,redand Hornets The native male Kamakis Streetsmart 119 www. • www. • 01606 01606 • 28310 28310 • www.olympic www.olympic • Cruising and Cruising Island-Hopping www.headwater.com 28210 41458 (escort- 41458 28210 94598 69749 www.ecogreece.com 72383 • • Holidays Walking Kastellos, Rethymno • OlympicTravel Bike Kampos, Adelianos Rethymno EcoGreece (USA) 838 7748 1-877 • Holidays Headwater House, Old School The Chester Rd, Northwich, Cheshire, UK Specialist Tours Diktynna Travel 6, Chania Archontaki footscapesofcrete.com bike.com diktynna-travel.gr 720033 (guided walks 720033 (guided walks and bird-watching) ed tours of museums, ancient sites and areas beauty) of natural to divers, but there but there to divers, are plenty of wartime to explore. wrecks ) from a vessels Cruise number of major cruise lines call at Cretan ports including Chania and as part of Rethymno also itineraries which include ports of call on the mainland and other islands. Multi-centre island hopping holidays including a stay in Crete some by are also offered specialist companies. Diving Scuba diving is ano- Windsurfing strong summer The Music and Dance Cretans are proud of Painting Spring is the most Cruise ship Cruise breezes which spring up spring up which breezes make most afternoons Cretan coasts ideal for windsurfing. Most major pack- tour operators offer ages with windsurfing at major resorts coaching as Georgioupoli such and Chersonisos. their rich heritage of tra- their rich ditional music and dance, and eager to share it A growing with visitors. usu- number of holidays, ally with accommodation in village homes, enable to learn some of the you complicated dances. popular time for painting painting popular time for Crete, when in holidays the clear light and multi- of wild coloured blaze inspira- provide flowers tional subject matter. Some painting holidays can be combined with tours of archaeological areas. sites and wildlife ther burgeoning pastime ther burgeoning pastime wrecks in Crete. Many not waters lie in shallow and visibility offshore, far Most ancient is excellent. are off-limits shipwrecks your luggage travelling luggage travelling your minibus by ahead of you and back-up day each if the transport available going gets too tough. ( * & ^ Right Windsurfing Special Interest Holidays Special

A number of special- Cycling Some companies, Some companies, Riding Walking and Walking Hiking Wildlife and Wildlife Ornithology Archaeology ancient palace The Cycling Centre Cycling

such as EcoGreece, offer as EcoGreece, offer such or mule-riding horseback- through the expeditions Cretan countryside and Ori. into the Lefka sites and ruined cities of cities of sites and ruined Minoan and Hellenistic Crete can be confusing without a guide. Escorted in-depth tours featuring of Knosos exploration and other sites, with slide and guest experts by are offered shows, companies. several

% $

Crete’s highest mountains Crete’s some of Europe’s offer most inspiring wilderness walking, but can be lethal or lone to inexperienced Small group walkers. experienced treks led by guides can be safer. £

@ seek best times to The people-shy out Crete’s animals are spring and when specialist autumn, eco-tourism operators and walking wildlife offer and in Sfakia holidays the Mt Idi range. ! Left ist companies offer ist companies offer accompanied cycling in Crete, usually holidays in spring and autumn, not too hot for when it’s with most of comfort, 120 Streetsmart ! Left $ £ a dozen tiny dishes. order acompletemealof a accompany your drink.In of snacks (meze) to wine, beerandarange bar,tapas serving equivalent oftheSpanish These aretheGreek @ Fish isofficially classed cies, includingseaurchins. and lessfamiliar delica- octopus, squid,langouste to wholeseabass,shrimp, food, fromtiny whitebait imaginable kindofsea- (fish tavern)every serves frappé (icedcoffee), onlyGreekcoffee,serve politics. talk They usually to play backgammon and where localmengather village andtown life, kafeneion isahubof range ofsoft drinks. bottled beerandalimited and of liqueursandspirits. and sometimesarange coffeeteion alsoserves gateaux. The filled piesandchocolate sugar andcinnamon,cream- nuts andpowdered with stuffed withraisinsand an array ofpastries honey-soaked baclava and sweet.things You willfind of theGreeklove ofall (patisserie) isevidence mezedopoleion you can Traditional café Mezedopoleion Ouzeris and The old-fashioned Traditional Cafés The Fish Restaurants The Pastry Shops raki, Greekbrandy, Eating andDrinkingTips psarotaverna zacharoplasteion zacharoplas- Centre ouzo, ouzo

Raki bottles Rakibottles

& and largervillages. located inmosttowns arestrategicallystands cayenne pepper. Giros yoghurt andadashof with onions,tomatoes, inﬂatpittaserved bread ving grill,shaved off and and cooked onarevol- into avertical cylinder slivers ofveal, pressed and deliciousfast food – Greece’s own greasy (pronounced “hero”)is The ubiquitousgiros ^ % and ispricedby weight. expensive) through “E” category “A” (themost tequila, rum orgin. on locallymadevodka, cocktails, usuallybased and disturbingly powerful iced coffee, soft drinks imported lagers, They expensive serve Chania andRethymno. towns such asIrakleio, and toyounger Greeksin crowds inmainresorts café-bars catertoholiday and sheep’s head. in intestinesandgrilled) and otheroffal wrapped include salad. Less familiar dishes withchipsserved and pork, spit-grilledand ses chicken, lamband The menucompri- typical vegetarian’s nightmare. carnivore’s delightanda isaor grillrestaurant The Grill Restaurants Neon-lit, gleaming Café-Bars Stands Giros (Kebab) Right kokoretsi (liver psitesteatoreon Café-bar, Agios Nikolaos

( * and othersoft drinks. water, cola,lemonade stuffed withmineral resort shophasafridge ral water. Virtually every ofbottledthe taste mine- Greeks themselves prefer but many visitors and perfectly safe todrink, waterGreek tap is ) in someholiday resorts. lagers ondraft are served Guinness andBritishkeg Newcastle Brown Ale, and Beck’s. Bottled including Budweiser importedbrandsserve bottles. Café-bars also 1840s), alsoin500ml Bavarian brewer inthe Greece, introducedby a (the firstbeerbrewed in including MythosandFix bottles. Local brands Greece andsoldin500ml brewed underlicencein Amstel andHeineken are (see alsop71). elsewhere inGreece wines fromCreteand drinkable redandwhite or in500mlbottles) and straight fromthebarrel flavoured include pineresin- should you. Wines one atasitting; nor rarely drinkmorethan with coffee. Cretans first thinginthemorning in tiny glasses,sometimes neattipple, andisserved Crete’s traditional fiery Lager beersincluding Beer Tsikoudia, orrakiis Raki and Wine Soft Drinks Water and retsina (sold Streetsmart 121 Icons, Antiques Icons, and Handicrafts Carved Wood Carved Unique to Crete is Pottery is a Pottery-making ) Original icons of saints, and apostles archangels command high prices and licence require an export – reputable dealers will assist in obtaining the necessary permissions. Good copies can be bought from specialist dealers, and from museum shops in Irakleio and out too for Chania. Look antique daggers, silver pen and tobacco cases, pipes and meerschaum pistols – but flintlock Colour- of fakes. beware and blankets ful woolen are easy to carry rugs home, as are beautifully embroidered textiles. ( * the curly wooden stick stick the curly wooden carved from prinos wood, is the mountain which tool, versatile shepherd’s used to carry burdens, discipline dogs and encourage stubborn hand- make They mules. decorations. some wall also find attrac- may You and platters bowls tive from hard, close- turned wood. grained olive living skill on Crete: look living skill on Crete: look coloured, prettily out for plates modern bowls, and cups, simple old- peasant fashioned or copies earthenware, of elaborately decorated Minoan, Classical or Hellenistic ceramics. Pottery souvenirs Pottery Right Olives and Olives Oil Olive Herbs Crete is famous Wine modern Aided by Olive oils Olive wine-making techniques, wine-making techniques, Greek wines are coming the and into their own, of Crete are no vineyards The exception. Boutari wines are among the buy can best, and you quality wines to take home in most towns and at airports. for the healing and the healing and for cleansing properties of its wild mountain herbs, are gathered, dried which in bulk all and exported home Take Greece. over a big bag of sage, orega- or basil, sold no, thyme in loose or in packages of Chania, the markets and Irakleio. Rethymno hotel owners) prefer prefer hotel owners) cash to credit cards, and usually pass on the percentage to you the credit by charged which card company, as can be as much 5 per cent. & oil and olive Olives been staples of have the Greek diet since ancient times, and the of Crete groves olive produce some of the best. Cold pressed virgin ingre- oil is the key olive dishes, dient of many and quality really oil (you can taste the difference) in Crete cheaper is much than at home. ^ % Centre Shopping Tips Shopping

Cash or Credit? Most traders and Prices and Prices Bargaining Tax and Tax Allowances Shop Opening Times Herbs and spices for sale for Herbs and spices

shop owners (as well (as well shop owners as restaurant and small $

Bargaining over prices is prices is over Bargaining not common practice in Crete, and most ticket fixed. prices are fairly hurts said, it never That the best possi- to ask for ble price, especially in art shops. Prices and craft notably cheaper are often at the very end of the season, when holiday custom is on the wane. £ Non-EU residents can Non-EU residents can Tax Added reclaim Value on most goods by (VAT) presenting the relevant receipt at Customs on Non-EU departure. can also buy travellers wines, spirits, tobacco, perfumes and other goods in duty-free shops at Chania and Irakleio airports. @ ! Cretan are markets busiest and best early in the morning, opening at to about 7:30am Monday and busiest of Saturday, mornings. all on Saturday and all other Markets, shops, close around reopening midday, around 5pm and staying open until at least 8pm. In resort areas, many shops are open until in summer. around 11pm Left 122 Streetsmart ! Left $ £ Athens orCrete. connecting flightto fare toLondon anda Europe, lookfor acheap If comingfromoutside so fares arecompetitive. charter flightsin summer, alone, andtherearealso Athens fromLondon airlines flydailyto least four scheduled flying directtoCrete. At ferry canbecheaper than travelling ontoCreteby Flying to Athens, then @ sun butfew visitors. ofand thereisstillplenty when theseaiswarm get visitisearlyOctober, best timeofallfor abud- spring andautumn. The arelowerer rental in Crete, andcarscoot- modation, airfares to early September. Accom- rockets frommid-June to Chersonisos, Rethymno, hostels inIrakleio, dents andschool pupils. cheap admissionfor stu- archaeological sitesoffer Most museumsand staying for several weeks. get aneven better rateif or more,andyou may discount for threenights usually offer a10 percent be. Pensions andhotels cheaper your roomwill to stayinoneplace,the Ferry Centre and Ferries Cheap Flights The costofliving Off-Season T There areyouth Youth Hostels The longeryou intend Discounts Budget Ideas Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter on Campingsign ravel Right work permits. citizens donotneed school. EU Intheory, in aprivate language may findwork teaching degree inEnglishyou hours. Ifyou have a longfrom tips),withvery paid (mostearningsare poorlyin resortsisvery Bar work andrestaurant supply ofcheap labour. pean countriesprovide a and othereasternEuro- migrants from Albania less easythanitwas, as picking fruit orolives is Finding casualwork ^ % & basic kitchen facilities. of acheap room)and around one-thirdthecost beds(fordormitory Siteia andPlakias,with a tent. camping meanscarrying public transport,and are easytogetusing downside, few campsites and twopeople.Onthe budget roomfor atent around halfthecostofa most campsitescharging you somemoney, with wait for hours inhotsun. traffic, you may have to track, wherethereislittle hitch-hike. Off thebeaten themselves frequently way spots),andCretans (especially toout-of-the- around theisland good way ofgetting Market food Camping cansave Camping Holidays Working Hitching canbea Hitch-hiking traveldk.com * holidaymakers. of high-spending cater toacaptive market Georgioupoli –which Chersonisos, Bali and including Elounda,Malia, north coastresorts– avoid thepurpose-built Budget travellers should ) Chersonisos andMalia. hour inlively resortslike most ofhalf-pricehappy are expensive. Make the resorts isfree,butdrinks most discosandclubsin café-bar.to Admission a fancy cocktail in asmart price ofasmallerbeeror café isusuallyhalfthe an old-fashioned local or ahalf-litreofwinein A half-litrebottle ofbeer ( usually thecheapest. chicken andsquidare on any menu,and the mostexpensive dish own right.Fishisalways oil) isacheap mealinits feta cheese, drowned in toes, olives andaslabof (onions, cucumber, toma- Greeksaladrestaurants, surprisingly little. In villager), you canlive on diet oftheCretan baked bread(thehealthy olives, cheese andfresh- to picnicking onfruit, summer, andifyou stick inexpensive fruit in Markets arepiledwith hotmealsinCrete. tasty p120) offer thecheapest Entertainment Drinking and Giros stands Cheap Eats to Avoid Resorts (see Streetsmart 123 www. • ravel Organizations for for Organizations Disabled Visitors 0134 887 5592 0134 www.disabledholiday 21033 10530 21033 020 7250 3222 www.radar.org.uk 0845 1249 971 0845 1249 • • Fantasy T Fantasy Fillellinon 19, Athens 10557 • All for Tourism Vitalise, Shap Road c/o Industrial Estate, Cumbria, UK Kendal, • RADAR 250 City Forum, 12 City EC1V Rd, London • • Disabled Holiday Directory Crescent, 6 Seaview Pembroke- Goodwick, 0A2 shire SA64 Directory tourismforall.org.uk directory.co.uk ) In the UK, organizations Care as Holiday such Service, Tripscope and advice provide RADAR accommo- and on travel dation in Greece for people with disabilities. organizes Fantasy Travel for holidays tailor-made people with disabilities. users, but some have users, but some ramps from street level to upper storeys. and lifts Most archaeological sites in Crete are located on steep and rugged land, with rough paths if or steps and few, ramps. any, Wheelchair Wheelchair Sights at Access Wheelchair Wheelchair Airports at Access Cars and Buses Rental cars are fitted Child Safety on Child Safety the Beach Baby Necessities Baby brands of Familiar Family on the beach Family with safety belts, but belts, but with safety not be seats may child short For available. use taxis rather journeys and crowded than slow are no There local buses. at bus disabled facilities stations, but collapsible be may wheelchairs in the luggage carried compartment of long- distance buses. baby milk, baby food and and food milk, baby baby are infants nappies for at mini-markets available in the resorts, or the local emporion (general geniko store) or pharmacy. ( visitor attractions Few or museums are fully accessible to wheelchair * there is no Unfortunately, access direct wheelchair between terminals and at Irakleio or aircraft Wheel- Chania airports. find it users may chair Athens and easier to fly to ferry. to Crete by travel & ^ Children should wear and a hat on the sunblock as there is a risk beach sunburn even of severe Warn April. as early as to look out for children sea urchins. black spiny are no lifeguards. There % Right Car hire Car hire ave Centre For detailed information on travelling to Crete visit detailed information on travelling to Crete visit For www.greektravel.com Families and Disabled Visitors and Disabled Families

Feeding Children Feeding ﬁnd Children may Activities for for Activities Children Self-Catering Self-Catering Apartments Hotels All hotels in Crete Aqua Aqua park

some Greek restaurant ﬁsh with the dishes (like intimi- head still attached) dating. Western-style as spaghetti, dishes, such hamburgers and chips are served in all resorts.

welcome children. Most Most children. welcome companies major holiday hotels which feature now are especially family- friendly, with facilities and baby-sitting as such activity clubs. Larger hotels major European used by often companies holiday rooms speciﬁ- some have wheel- cally designed for people and for users chair with other disabilities. $

pools and waterslides, pools and waterslides, close to main resorts. can enjoy Older children pedalos, sea canoes, and windsurfing at resorts. £ holiday Some package a range of hotels offer supervised activities for Crete children. younger also has a couple of aquaparks, with w Small self-catering Small self-catering are a popular complexes with Villas choice. family pools can be ideal for On the down families. side, most villas on Crete are some distance from the beach. @ ! Left and Villas 124 Streetsmart 8am–1:30pm Friday. 2pm Monday to Thursday, are normallyopen8am– changing money. Banks your passportwhen day resorts. Always take and somehotelsinholi- and attravel agencies a yellow “Exchange” sign, at postoffices displaying larger towns andvillages, lers’ cheques atbanksin Change money ortravel- ed theeuroin2002. Greeceadopt- ber states, ! Left £ @ “please” (yiassou orkalimera), if onlythosefor “hello” words ofGreek,even However, bars andrestaurants. industries, andinmost and othertourist-related ing inhotels,guesthouses virtually work- allCretans more orlessfluentlyby and atairports. ATMs inalllargertowns withdraw eurosfrom credit ordebitcardto You canalsouseyour cent for credit card use. additional4–5peran establishments charge and tavernas. Some stores, guesthouses cash ispreferred inmost buttourist restaurants, shops andinsome hotels, moreexpensive widely acceptedinlarger will bemuch appreciated. “thank you” (efkaristo), Post boxes Changing Money English isspoken Language Credit cardsare Credit Cards Like mostEUmem- Banking andCommunications (parakalo) and learning afew Centre Banksign ^ % $ some travel agencies OTE offices and from Faxes can besentfrom & traveller’s cheques. exchange money and Some postoffices also 2pm Monday to Friday. is usuallyopen7:30am– a roundyellow signand dromeion) isindicatedby organization. telecommunications offices ofOTE, theGreek metered phonesinlocal home. You canalsouse cheapest way ofcalling kiosks, andthisisthe general storesandstreet card, available frommost use aprepaidphone all phoneboxes. Most lingual instructions in and therearemulti- are prominentlymarked, calls. Internationalbooths local andinternational separate boothsfor and efficient, with with Greeknetworks. yet befullycompatible phones systems may not US andCanadianmobile Samaria Gorge.Some deep valleys such asthe areasandinmountain may bepatchy insome erage cov However, their phonesinCrete. no problemsinusing users shouldexperience Right Phones areplentiful Public Phones The postoffice Post Offices European cellphone Mobile Phones Restante Fax andPoste Telephonebooth (taxi- your mail. tocollect of identity that you willneedproof post offices. Be aware be heldfor you atmain “Poste Restante” can and hotels.Mailmarked ( * ) come throughclearly. language broadcastsalso English- of America andCNN. Sky Voice receiving satellite TV andabove(3-star) have hotels inCcategory Mhz shortwave. Most on 9.41,15.07 and 12.09 canbereceivedService tours andtransportation. excursions, cars, rental to bookaccommodation, quickest andeasiestway Internet bookingisthe towns andresorts. can befound inallmain cheap broadbandaccess Greek daily,Kathimerini. edition ofthemain and includesanEnglish and USsportsreports, carries worldwide news Tribune, publisheddaily, The day after publication. bought inresortsthe newspapers canbe tional reports. with Greekandinterna- is thedaily Also publishedinEnglish on saleinmany resorts. America, For news fromNorth The BBC World TV andRadio Internet cafés with Internet Most European Newspapers International Herald USA Today is Athens News, Streetsmart 125 thefts from from thefts Crime Crete has a very low Pharmacies Greek pharmacists Coastguard 108 EOT/GNTO Contact nearest tourist office Emergencies all Multilingual for types of emergency 112 Police 100 Police Tourist 171 Ambulance 166 Fire 199 fire Forest 191 Roadside assistance 104 are marked by by are marked farmakia) ) ( crime rate and is one of crime rate and is one of desti- holiday the safest nations in the world. However, Take tourists do occur. sensible precautions, rental including locking cars and hotel rooms, passports, and keeping and spare cash in tickets hotel safes. provide comprehensive comprehensive provide advice on minor ailments and injuries, and can dispense a wide range of remedies including antibiotics, anti-inflam- matories and painkillers. Most speak good English. Pharmacies ( a green cross sign. Pharmacy Pharmacy Right Hospitals A European Health Dentists Dentists are profi- Doctors are private There Breakdowns and Breakdowns Accidents Insurance Card covers Insurance Card covers necessaryany medical EU citizens treatment for in Greek public hospitals to better but it is much insurance sure your make treatment. private covers cient and can be found in in cient and can be found including major towns Irakleio, Chania, Reth- ymno, Agios Nikolaos, You Siteia and Ierapetra. your for must pay treatment in cash. medical clinics in all the medical clinics in all the Many main towns. doctors speak good English. Consultations in cash. must be paid for Their bites and stings are bites and stings are Their painful but not normally lethal to adults, though should medical attention be sought if small children are bitten. * & ^ Set up a warning triangle triangle Set up a warning car hire if possible – your should be equipped with is injured, one. If anyone are required passers-by to stop and help, and you must contact the police. in a collision, If involved liability, admit sign never statementany of responsibility, or lose your Contact your temper. insurance company travel as soon as possible. % Health and Security Tips and Security Health

Insects and Pests Minor Ailments Sunburn and heat Travel Travel Insurance EOT/GNTO organ- EOT/GNTO The Cretan policeman Centre Medical unit Cretan

exhaustion and mosquito and mosquito exhaustion bites are easily prevented A basic medi- . (see p118) cal kit should include painkillers, anti-histamine tablets and cream for bites and stings, a remedy, and diarrhoea tablets motion sickness boat or bus journeys. for ization helps tourists who ization helps tourists who Hornets, scorpions and Hornets, scorpions and (possibly) vipers all exist in Crete but are not dan- gerous unless handled. $ £ You should take out should take out You travel comprehensive you insurance covering medical treat- private for evacuation ment and for if necessary, as as well of loss or theft for belongings and expenses due to delayed incurred or cancelled flights. policy sure your Make medical and for will pay direct and hospital fees for you that it covers as activities such holiday trekking, scuba diving, riding, and motorcycling, personal as for as well of liability in the event damage to rented cars or motorcycles. @ ! Left encounter problems with encounter problems with hotels, campsites, car rental and tour companies while in Crete. 126 Streetsmart • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€€€ • www.stnicolasbay.gr • MapN428410 25041 eloundamare.gr •€€€€€ • 28410 41512 •www. Beach, 72053•MapN4 Limin Chersonisos the peninsula. facilities arecloseby on water sports,andother tennis andafullarray of and activitiesincludes wide varietyofsports within lushgrounds. The 215 suitesandvillasset Mare isacomplex of hotel inCrete,theElounda Undeniably thebestresort ! Left beauty treatments,afinebeauty a rangeofhealthand centres inGreece,with the finestmarinespa This resorthas one of $ restaurants. facilities andseveral Nikolaos town. Sports lows closeto Agios of 150 roomsand bunga- A highlyesteemedresort £ d own semi-private beach. swimming poolsandits this finehotelhasthree shops of Agios Nikolaos, andof therestaurants walkingWithin distance @ • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€€€ mamidakishotels.gr • 28410 23801 •www. Agios Nikolaos •MapN4 72100 Agios Nikolaos Creta Paradise Hotel, Elounda Elounda Mare Beach Hotel, Aquis Silva Ag. Nikolaos Minos Palace, Bay,Nikolaos Ag. Hotel StNicolas Luxury Resorts cards, haveen-suite bathrooms and airconditioning Note: d 72100 d Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit

Elounda Right Grecotel Creta Palace • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€€€ moevenpick-hotels.com • 28103 77000•www. Gazi, Heraklion•MapK3 hotels.com •€€€€ 61315 •www.atlantica Gerani •MapD228210 Classical style. Classical style. built inanattractive Neo- its bungalows have been include twopools,and Chania. Modernfacilities away fromthecentreof is onlytenminutes Paradisees, theCreta Crete’s BlueFlagbeach- room resortononeof An award-winning 186- & d range ofwater sports. tennis courts,plusa door poolsandﬂoodlit centre, indoorandout- villas withspa,health suites, bungalows and Superb mixofluxury ^ a sportscentre. thalassotherapy and spa beautiful pool.Italso up-to-date facilities anda andmaterialswithstyle hotel combinestraditional This stunning modern % • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€€€ • www.bluepalace.gr • MapN428410 65500 gardens. private beach andverdant Nov–Mar •€€€€€ aquisresorts.com •Closed • 2897022850www. Chersonisos •MapL3 PlakasElounda72100 & Thalasso Mövenpick Resort Chania Creta Paradise, and Spa, Elounda Blue Palace Resort d 70014 Limin d d 73100 71414 has a

tennis andwater sports. for children, aswell as wide rangeofactivities has several poolsanda bungalows andvillas.It main block and200 with 162 roomsin its from centralRethymno, is only4km(2miles) Beach, Palace theCreta hotel theRithymna Smaller thanitssister ( exclusive villas. for families, withsome even itsown zoo. I andbars andrestaurants a hugepool,choice of its own private beaches, this five-starresorthas On aprivate headland, * inlets. beaches androcky hotel hasitsown sandy of Agios Nikolaos, the stroll fromthecentre filled gardens. Onlya set intranquil,flower- the GulfofMirabellois with splendidviews of complex ofbungalows This medium-sized ) d Nov–Mar •€€€€€ grecotel.com •Closed F3 •28310 55181 •www. Nov–Mar •€€€€ • www.capsis.gr •Closed • MapK328108 11112 Pelagia 75100, Irakleio • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€€€ • www.bluegr.com • MapN428410 22345 Resort 74100 Missiria•Map Palace, Rethymno Grecotel Creta Capsis Elite Out oftheBlue ‘Otel,Nikolaos Ag. Minos Beach Art d 72100 Ag d Agia deal Streetsmart 127 150 150 under €30 under d € €30–€40 €€ €40–€80 €€€ Lithinon 29, €€€€ €80–€120 over €120 €€€€€ over d

15 Epimenidou Epimenidou 15 www.portodel d Suites Pandora, Pandora, Suites Chania Porto del Porto Chania Colombo, Andromeda, Villa Chania Theofanous and Moschon, and Moschon, Theofanous St, 71202 • Map T1 • 2810 T1 • 2810 • Map St, 71202 • www.lato.gr 228103 • €€€€ 73110 • Map D2 • 28210 • Map D2 • 28210 73110 98466 • colombo.com • €€€ ( restored Neo- A lovingly Classical mansion, with a lush palm garden and a large pool, elaborately painted ceilings, white marble floors, staircases and balconies. ) is a stylish This collection of two- and four-bed an suites, some facing inner courtyard, others All looking out to sea. high ceilings, balco- have nies and tall shuttered windows. * old stone attractive This building stands close to the old harbour at Chania its some of and, unlike round. is open year rivals, twin and are 10 There double rooms, some of cosy gallery have which beds, with furnishings the with that harmonize traditional lines. building’s d Eleftherios Venizelou, 73133 Venizelou, Eleftherios 28300 • Map D2 • 28210 • www.villandromeda.gr • €€€€€ • Closed Dec–Feb 73100 • Map D2 • 28210 • Map D2 • 28210 73100 43588 • www.pandora- hotel.com • €€€ modern, comfortable modern, comfortable rooms. traveldk.com 28210 28210 Price Categories Price For a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra .casadelfino. Theofanous Theofanous 9, d Daliani 4, 74100 Daliani 4, 74100 d Lato Boutique Lato Irakleio Hotel, Vecchio Hotel Hotel Vecchio Apartments, Casa Leone, Casa Leone, Chania Casa Delfino, Casa Delfino, Chania Parodos Theotokopolou Theotokopolou Parodos Rethymno • Map F3 • 28310 54985 • Map F3 • 28310 • Closed • www.vecchio.gr • €€€ Nov–Mar 73100 • Map D2 73100 • www 93098 • com • €€€€€ 18 • Map D2 • 28210 76762 76762 • Map D2 • 28210 18 • www.casa-leone.com • €€€€ & round, the Open all year panoramic Lato offers Venetian of the views and the old Fortress port of Irakleio from its ^ complex, An attractive merging two created by mansions and Venetian adding a swimming pool. modern, hotel offers The rooms and well-equipped studios. d % “House of the Lion” The has been meticulously restored, with period Venetian as details such and antique (and mirrors reproduction) furniture. also has Casa Leone The bar. a smart cocktail $ 17th-century This mansion, Venetian most exclusive Chania’s address, has been luxuri- ously restored. In a quiet it has fine rooftop alley, and the suites views individually been have designed. Palazzo Rimondi Palazzo , this , this Right

42–6

d ers a friendly ers a friendly On a trafﬁc- Recommend your favourite hotel on your favourite Recommend panelled ceil- Boutique Hotels Boutique 21 Xanthoudidou carved stone and d

Palazzo Rimondi, Rimondi, Palazzo Rethymno Nostos, Chania Nostos, With a name mean- Mythos Suites, Mythos Suites, Rethymno Mythos Suites

C12 Plateia Karaoli, 74100 Karaoli, 74100 Plateia C12 and 16 Har. Trikoupi, 74100 74100 Trikoupi, Har. and 16 51289 • Map F3 • 28310 • www.palazzorimondi.com • €€€€ • Closed Nov–Mar Zambeliou, 73113 • Map Zambeliou, 73113 • www. 94743 D2 • 28210 nostos-hotel.com • €€€€ £ away in anTucked arcaded courtyard behind iron gates, Palazzo Rimondi is a well-restored of 15th-century complex buildings, with vaulted roofs, wooden ings. @

d ! part in the old Situated this smart of Rethymno, hotel is housed in two Venetian 16th-century been buildings that have They into one. knocked a courtyard with surround pool; ground-floor a pretty verandahs rooms have adjoining the courtyard, rooms while upper-floor balconies. wooden have Left ing “homecoming” brightly painted little, pension off welcome. free lane in the heart of it has stu- the old town, dio rooms with gallery beds and balconies, and of the harbour fine views from the shaded rooftop terrace. • Map F3 • 28310 53917 53917 • Map F3 • 28310 • www.mythos-crete.gr • €€€€ 128 Streetsmart gr • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€ 90007 •www Chania •MapD228210 Theotokopoulou 55–7, 73131 com •€€€ cards •www.aptera-lodge. • 2825031440 •Nocredit 73003 Chania•MapD2 Elounda court andmini-golf. children’s pool,tennis a largesaltwaterpool, ments. Facilities include its two-tofour-bed apart- market tocomplement andmini- bars, restaurant has 24-hourreception, the village,thiscomplex 20 minutes’ walk from Set inlushgardensabout ! Left complex closetothe An attractive small $ d and the White Mountains. views over SoudaBay of city Aptera offer lovely ments neartheancient equipped studio apart- These modernandwell- £ some withseaviews. sleeping uptofour people, and open-planapartments studios,and twin-bedded been dividedintodouble near theharbourhas This Venetianmansion @ d • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€ • www.eloundaresidence.gr • MapN428410 41823 Aptera,Apokoronou, 72053Elounda NostalgiaStudios Residence, Elounda Georgioupoli Nostalgia Studios, Aptera Aptera Lodge, Chania Casa Veneta, Self-Catering Apartments Self-Catering cards, haveen-suite bathrooms and airconditioning Note: Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit .casa-veneta.

Centre d

Creta Helena Nov–Mar •€ • 2897023358Closed Chersonissos •MapM4 d There’s alsoasmallpool. bed andkitchenette. a livingroomwithsofa- double bedroomand each or withatwin open-plan apartments, the harbour. Itoffers 20 minutes’ walk from complex inaquietarea, Modern apartment ^ a sharedpool. you would expect, plus and with private balconies from thebeach, come apartments, only1km These affordable very % d kitchen facilities. Each sofa-bed, andallwithfull bedsandmost withtwin View has 10 apartments, from thebeach, theBay and justafew paces On thefringeofSiteia & 46722 •€€€ Chania •MapD228210 Nov–Apr •€€€ • NocreditcardsClosed • MapE32825061400 ette andbalcony orpatio. All have shower, kitchen- for twotofour people. studios andapartments small poolandchoice of village centre.Ithasa Chersonissos Siteia I.Sfakianaki 42,73134 73007Georgioupoli Chania Creta Helena, Apartments, Paul-Eva Apartments, Bay View all theamenities

Right AnnaApartments d 70007 verandah. room hasabalcony or • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€€ • MapR42843061100 restaurants. restaurants. to several taverns and Konstantinos andclose near thevillageof Agio the lushLasithiPlateau Located intheheartof has aswimmingpool. a traditionalmanner. Also family roomsfurnishedin Lovely * d a children’s play area. verandah. There’salso room, kitchen and two bedrooms,living apartments have oneor close tothebeach. All is onaquietsidestreet attractive little complex this and greenery, Smothered withﬂowers ) by. pool. The beach isclose ettes, verandahs anda apartments have kitchen- these 32self-catering and Kouremenos beach, Between Palaiocastro ( greekhotel.com •€€€ M4 •02810 222218 • www. Konstantinos, 72052•Map cards •€€€ • 28103 46428•Nocredit • ClosedNov–Mar •€€€ view-apartments.gr conditioning •www.bay • Nocreditcardsair • MapQ42843024333 Paleochora •MapB4 d Palaiocastro Kastri Village, Lasithi Zeus’s House, Paleochora Anna Apartments, 72300Palaiokastro apartments and d Petras, 72300 d Agio Streetsmart 129 74060 74060 d under €30 under € €€ €30–€40 €€€ €40–€80 €€€€ €80–€120 over €120 €€€€€ over

Rethymno Rethymno Mare Royal Athina Palace, Athina Palace, Irakleio Neos Alianthos Hotel, Garden 74100 Rethymno Rethymno 74100 71001 Agia Pelagia Pelagia Agia 71001 Plakias • Map F4 • 28320 • www.alianthos.gr 31280 • €€€ • Closed Dec–Feb • Map F3 • 28310 71703 71703 • Map F3 • 28310 • www.rethymnomare.gr • €€€€€ • Closed Nov–Mar • Map K3 • 28108 11800 11800 • Map K3 • 28108 • www.athinapalace.com • €€€€€ • Closed Nov–Mar d d ) in the small Situated village of Scaleta, km (7 miles) east 11 the of Rethymno, Mare Royal Rethymno has landscaped gardens and a pool, a restaurant, three bars and its own nightclub. It also offers sports, a range of water including a diving school. ( hotel with A large beach three outdoor pools and Accom- beach. its own modation comes in a of two- or three- choice family person bungalows, sleeping two bungalows adults and two children, maison- and four-person with sea view. ettes are a mini- Also available and a hairdresser. market * one the road from Across best beaches, of Crete’s hotel is this family-run the best in Plakias. It pool, has a children’s pool and freshwater a supermarket pool-bar, and restaurant. Plakias PO d Price Categories Price For a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra PO Box PO Box d are in two are in two Elounda Louis Creta Louis Creta Club, Princess Astir Beach Astir Beach Gouves Hotel, Aquila Elounda Aquila Village, 70014 Gouves • Map L3 Gouves 70014 73011 Loutro, Anopoli Loutro, 73011 Box 9, 73014 Platanias 9, 73014 Box 62702 • Map C2 • 28210 • www.louishotels.com • €€€€ • Closed Nov–Mar Maleme buildings in separate parts buildings in separate parts of this village, set among palm trees, bougainvillea and tamarisk. It is acces- boat. sible only by (plus four self-catering self-catering (plus four They studios). • 28970 41141 • Closed • 28970 41141 • €€€€ Nov–Mar • Map D4 • 28250 91433 • Map D4 • 28250 91433 • No credit cards • www. hotelportoloutro.com • €€ • Closed Nov–Feb Built around a complex Built around a complex swimming of lagoon-like at pools on the beach this tropical- Maleme Bay, tennis, style resort offers mini- archery, football, golf and basketball. d & ^ a hotel overlooks This and ﬁne, sandy beach has two pools, a tennis court and a range of other land and water sports, including a scuba diving centre. It also has playground. a children’s % Elounda is exclu- Aquila adults, offering for sively luxury rooms overlooking Mirabello Bay. d 16, 72053 Elounda • Map 16, • www. 41802 N4 • 28410 aquilahotels.com • €€€€ Porto Loutro Hotel Loutro Porto Right

73014 73014 d Panormo Panormo d 7303 Kalives 7303 Kalives d Beach Hotels Beach

Porto Loutro Loutro Porto Loutro Hotel, Aegean Palace Palace Aegean Platanias Hotel, Kalives Beach Beach Kalives Kalives Hotel, Iberostar Creta Creta Iberostar Panorama, Kalives Beach Hotel Beach Kalives

• Map E2 • 28250 31285 • Map E2 • 28250 31285 • www.kalyvesbeach.com • €€€€ • Closed Nov–Mar • Map F3 • 28340 51512 • Map F3 • 28340 51512 €€€€€ • • Closed Nov–Mar Kontomari, PlataniasKontomari, • Map 62668 • Closed C2 • 28210 • €€€€ Nov–Mar

$ hotel veryThis attractive at the beach just above has 36 rooms Loutro £ Fields separate this low- rise hotel from the nearby Its rooms surround beach. a large pool (with poolside bar) and some suites have small pools. their own include a Other facilities gym, sauna, tennis court and playground.

Situated between two between two Situated on Souda sandy beaches this hotel overlooks Bay, and has 150 the river rooms in two wings, each is an There with a pool. terrace riverside attractive restaurant and easy beach access. @

Four outdoor pools, a pools, a outdoor Four heated indoor pool, six tennis courts, sauna and sports that include water this scuba diving make resort one of huge beach an the best in Crete for Accommo- holiday. active dation is in suites or bungalows. ! Left Rethymno 130 Streetsmart asprospotamos.com •€€€ asprospotamos.com air conditioning•www. • Nocreditcards • MapP52843051694 alos, 72055Ierapetra • www.milia.gr •€€€ • Noairconditioning • MapB328210 46774 conditioning •€€€ • Nocreditcardsair • MapD22825023398 d ! Left d house usesolarenergy). lights andfridgesineach lighting (thoughbathroom and paraffin lampsfor with water from thewell lovers ofthesimplelife, cottagesadobe-style for A settlement of10 £ vineyards. and winesfromitsown dishes Cretan serving now hasitsown taverna, in themid-1990s and was restoredby villagers venture, Parthenagogio co-operative A baking. basket weaving and picking, herdinggoats, olivewith wine-making, villagers,helpingCretan A chance tolive like @ from mountain springs.from mountain stoves, whilewater comes heated by wood-burning wood. The roomsare 1993 inlocalstoneand rebuilt between1982 and rooms invillagehouses west” slopes ofCrete’s “wild Aspro Potamos, Makrygi- 73012 Milia, Vlatos Milia Village Chania Parthenagogio, Set intheforested Milia Village Makrygialos Aspros Potamos, , Miliaoffers 13 Village Guesthouses cards, haveen-suite bathrooms and airconditioning Note: Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit d Apokoronas Centre Aphrodite, Sougia Aphrodite, conditioning •€€€ • 2843051120 •Noair P5 Map • 72055, Ierapetra Potamos, ^ d andlotsofflowers.tables balconies, marble-topped rooms withblue-painted street. Clean,affordable Sougia’s somnolentmain quiet, leafylanejustoff Pretty pensionina % pool onsite. there isatiny swimming 2 km(1mile)away, and islessthanMakrygialos trees. The sandybeach at of pine,olive andcarob ingrovesnooks stands ings andcornerfireplace floors, low wooden ceil- cottages withstone This groupofshepherds’ $ overnight stopontheway Particularly handyasan of the White Mountains. the bay andtheslopes with balconiesoverlooking Amiable guesthouse, & arolithosvillage.gr •€€€ J4 •28108 21050 •www. 71500 Servili, Tylissos •Map 51414 •€€ formed nightly. music anddanceper- embroidery. Traditional to basket weaving and pottery andiconpainting traditional crafts, from houses withanarray of Sougia • Map C4 • 28230 Sougia•MapC428230 ges, Makrygialos White River Cotta- A complex ofstone Arolithos, Tylissos Sougia Aphrodite, Loutro The BlueHouse, Right Makrygialos Makrygialos The BlueHouse d Aspros d Arolithos, Arolithos, and theSamariaGorge. to orfrom Agia Roumeli Minimum stayoneweek. bar andtaverna next door. and thereisapool,snack verandahs ortiny gardens, to-date studios. All have bathrooms, orfullyup- modern kitchens and stone cottages, with with achoice ofrestored above theLibyan Sea, Hillside holiday village ( d (a five-minute walk). to eatatPlakavillage and shopsplaces across toSpinalonga, of Mirabello,withviews houses besidetheGulf stonetraditional-style Village isagroupof Spinalonga Coastal * d Crete. ofeasternthe mountains Lasithi Plateau,highin Cave orfor exploring the a visittotheDiktian makes agood base for Psychro villagethat A tiny guesthouse in ) d air conditioning•€€€€€ N4 •28410 41494/6 •No traditionalcottages.gr •€€€ air conditioning•www. N6 •2842061815 •Some • 2825091127 •€€ • Noairconditioning € 315 04•Nocreditcards Lasithi •MapM428440 72053Elounda•Map Loutro •MapD4 72200Ierapetra•Map tages, Ierapetra Koutsounari Cot- Village, Elounda Spinalonga Psychro Diktaeon Andron, d 72052Psychro, Streetsmart 131 • €€€€€ under €30 under € €€ €30–€40 €€€ €40–€80 Vamos • Map • Map Vamos €€€€ €80–€120 Pervolia, Pervolia, over €120 €€€€€ over d

d 70005 Avdu Avdu 70005 d Avdou, Lasithi Avdou, Set in the grounds Villa Stratos, Stratos, Villa Kalonyktis Kindelis, Metohi Chania Kalonyktis • Booking • Booking Kalonyktis d Pediados • Map M4 • Map M4 Pediados Reservations • 21080 47244 • www.vacation- greece.com • €€€€ Chania • Map D2 • 28210 Chania • Map D2 • 28210 • No air conditioning 41321 www. • • No credit cards metohi-kindelis.gr E3 • 28250 23251 • www. • €€€ vamossa.gr ) * A three-villa complex flower- by surrounded gardens. and fruit-filled villas varyThe in size their own and two have village pretty The pools. its with of Kalonyktis, and taverna, mini-market away. is a short walk ( villa apartments, each Two garden and with its own pool, within a huge family dating from farmhouse times. It is sur- Venetian apricot and rounded by and a huge orange groves, Inside, are cool lawn. marble floors and modern facilities. through Stratos Villas Villas through Stratos 26956 • www. 28310 stratosvillas.com • Closed • €€€ Nov–Mar balconies. of a small organic farm of a small organic farm trees grow where fruit on the Lasithi slopes. are six apartments, There kitchen, all with shower, dining room, and living room. traveldk.com Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra Kastellos, d Vamos • Map Vamos d Vamos Houses, Houses, Vamos Vamos Hamam House, Hamam House, Vamos Footscapes of Footscapes Rethymno Crete, Villa Christina, Christina, Villa Almirida Plaka, Almirida • Map D2 Almirida • Plaka, Rethymno • MapRethymno F3 www.foot • 94598 • 69749 scapesofcrete.com • €€€ E3 • Reservations www. greekislandsclub.com • (00 44) 20 8232 9780 • Not • €€€€€ Nov–Mar available • Reservations 69457 85673 • www.holidaylettings.co.uk €€€€ • • Closed Nov–Mar & are luxurious villas These in a village of restored traditional buildings, with courtyards and private ^ dinky This villa, once pasha’s Turkish part of a villa, has a small pool and garden. It is in a delightful old village, but the bright lights of Chania are only half an a Ideal for hour away. couple. d % are wonderful There of the sea and views mountains from these modern villas in the quiet village of Kastellos. Guided country walks are offered. $ On a hilltop above with Almirida beach, a superb pool and Souda Bay. over views A double room, two twins, fully-equipped and maid service. kitchen Also with a wonderful terrace. sea-facing Metohi Kindelis Metohi Right Recommend your favourite hotel on your favourite Recommend Villas

Villa Iason, Iason, Villa Maleme Villa Dafnes, Dafnes, Villa Dafnes Elounda Gulf Villas Hamam House

73100 Maleme • Map 73100 Dafnes • Map J4 72053 Elounda • Map N4 d

Three villas, each with its with its villas, each Three pool, share a larger own pool with two apartments in a Mediterranean-style mansion. Other shared include a gym, facilities sauna, plunge pool and serviced, Fully wine cellar. with a cook on request. £

@ three- stunning This bedroom, 19th-century house in the heart of top wine region Crete’s has a ﬂower-ﬁlled courtyard, open-plan and dining room, kitchen and an eight-metre The swimming pool. price includes car hire.

d ! most luxurious Crete’s has 18 villa complex suites, each villas and 10 All pool. with private machines washing have and and dishwashers, marble bathrooms with sea Fine whirlpool tubs. on are to be had; views right across the ﬁne days Gulf of Mirabello. Left C2 • Reservations Imagine 99324 • www. Crete 28210 imaginecretehotels.com • €€€€€ • Reservations (00 44) 0707 • www. 0845 155 alpharooms.com • €€€€€ • 28410 90300 • www. • 28410 • Closed eloundavillas.com • €€€€€ Nov–Mar General Index

Page numbers in bold Anna Apartments, boat trips 46–7, 116 type refer to main entries. Paleochora 128 Boutari Winery, Anogeia 99 Archanes 64, 81 antiques 121 bouzouki 60 A Aphroditem, Sougia 130 Boyd-Hawes, Harriet 10, 13 accidents 125 Apicorno Café, Kalives 72 Bronzesmith’s workshop, accommodation 126–31 Aptera 99 Gournia 31 Index Acropol, Matala 88 Aptera Lodge, Aptera 128 budget travel 122 Acropolis (Kastro), Aquapark, Chersonisos 47 Bull from the Sea, The Gortys 25 Aquila Elounda Village, (Renault) 57 Adoration of the Magi Elounda 129 Bull’s Head Rhyton, (Damaskinos) 57 Aquis Silva, Limin Irakleio Archaeological Aegean Palace Hotel, Chersonisos 126 Museum 15 Platanias 129 archaeologists 10–11 buses 116, 123 Agia Galini 44, 75, 86 Archaia Eleftherna 99 Byzantine Empire 32, 33 Agia Roumeli, Samaria Archive, Phaestos 21 Gorge 27, 52 Argyroupoli 48 C Agia Roumeli-Chora Arkadiou 62 Café du Lac, Sfakion boat trip 46 Arolithos, Tylissos 130 Agios Nikolaos 112 Agia Roumeli-Loutro walk Aroma, Chania 72 Café Zygos, 52 askomandoura 61 Agios Nikolaos 112 Agia Triada 34, 81 Aspros Potamos 51 cafés, bars and ouzeries Agia Triada Sarcophagus, Aspros Potamos, 120 Irakleio Archaeological Makrygialos 130 Central Crete 88 Museum 14 Astir Beach Hotel, Eastern Crete 112 Agioi Deka (Ten Saints) 63 Gouves 129 Top Ten 72–3 Agios Eftihios Athina Palace, Irakleio 129 camping 122 (St Eustacius) 63 Avdou, Lasithi 131 car hire 116, 123 Agios Georgios Avli, Rethymno 68, 101 Carpenter’s workshop, (St George) 63 Axos 48 Gournia 31 Agios Ioannis Prodromos Ayia Triada Sarcophagus, Casa Delﬁno, Chania 127 (St John the Baptist) 63 Irakleio Archaeological Casa Leone, Chania 127 Agios Ioannis Theologos Museum 14 Casa Veneta, Chania 128 (St John the Divine) 63 castles 40–41 Agios Michalis B catamaran sailing 47 (St Michael) 63 babies 123 Cave of the Holy Fathers Agios Nikolaos baglamas 61 59 (St Nicholas) 63 Bali 45, 86 caves 59, 104 Agios Nikolaos 62, 74, 103 banking 124 Central Court, Ancient Agios Pavlos (St Paul) 63 bargaining 121 Knosos 8 Agios Pavlos beach 27, 98 Barko Café, Agios Nikolaos Central Court, Phaestos 20 Agios Titos (St Titus) 63 72 Central Crete 78–89 Akrotiri Peninsula 99 bars see cafés, bars and bars and cafés 88 Alexander’s Roof Garden ouzeries beaches 86 Bar, Agios Nikolaos 112 Bay View Apartments, map 78 Alikianos 49 Siteia 128 restaurants 89 Amari Valley 7, 28–9 beaches and beach resorts Central Palace Court, see also Mt Idi Central Crete 86 Gournia 30 Amari village 29 Eastern Crete 110 Chania 6, 18–19, 74, 91 Amnesia, Kato Zakros 112 Top Ten 44–5 Chania Castle 40 Ancient Knosos 6, 8–9, 11, Western Crete 98 cheeses 66 34, 79, 80 beer 120 Chelidon, Elounda 113 ancient sites 34–5 Blue House, The, Loutro Chersonisos 74, 86 Andikithira 47 130 Chestnut Festival 62 Androulidakis Taverna, Blue Palace Resort and children 123 Gonia 71 Spa, Elounda 126 Chionia 110

132 Chora Sfakion 63, 99 customs 117 EOT (Greek National Chrysi 47 cycling 116, 119 Tourism Organisation) churches 117, 125 Agia Anna, Axos 48 D Epiphany 63 Agia Ekaterini, Irakleio Da Molini Castle Ruins, Epohes (Four Seasons Index 82 Alikianos 41 Bar), Chania 100 Agia Irene, Kournas 48 Dalianis, Chatzimichalis Erotokritos, Ammoudara 89 Agia Paraskevi, Topolia 32, 57 Erotokritos (Kornaros) 57 49 Damaskinos, Michael 57 Ethia 49 Agioi Deka 43 Damnoni 98 etiquette 117 Agios Eftihios, Daskalogiannis, Ioannis Etz Hayyim Synagogue, Hromonastiri 29 32, 56 Chania 19 Agios Frangiskos, Evans, Sir Arthur 8, 9, 10, dentists 125 Rethymno 94 11, 14 Dia 47 Agios Georgios, Kournas Diktaeon Andron, 48 F Psychro 130 Agios Georgios, Voila 49 Falasarna 98 Diktian cave 58, 59, 80 Agios Ioannis, Alikianos families 123 49 Diktian cave walk 53 Fantasy Travel 123 Agios Ioannis Theologis, diouli 61 faxes 124 Kardaki 29 Disabled Holiday Directory Feast of the Annunciation Agios Mikhail 123 63 Arkhangelos, disabled visitors 123 ferries 116, 122 Asomatos 87 discounts 122 Festival of Agios Titos 63 Agios Nikolaos, diving 119 Festival of St Nicholas, Agios Nikolaos 103 doctors 125 Agios Nikolaos 62 Agios Nikolaos, Chania Dolphin Frescoes, Festival of the Virgin Mary 43 Ancient Knosos 8 62 Agios Nikolaos, Samaria Dorians 33 festivals 62–3 Gorge 26 duty-free allowances 121 Firkas, Chania 18 Agios Titos, Irakleio 83 Dytikos (Lendas) 86 First Palace remains, Basilica of Agios Titos, Phaestos, 21 Gortys 24 E fish 69 Osia Maria, Samaria E4 European fish restaurants 120 Gorge 27 Mountaineering flights 116, 122 Panagia, Thronos 29 Footpath 53 food and drink 66–7, 120, Panagia Kera 42 Easter 62 122 Tessaron Martyron, Eastern Crete 102–113 Footscapes of Crete 131 Rethymno 94 bars and cafés 112 Fortetza, Chania 72 Top Ten 42–3 beaches 110 Four Lions, The, Irakleio 88 Ciao, Irakleio 88 Fourfouras 29 map 102 Classical Temple, Frangokastello 40, 59, 92 places to eat 113 Phaestos 21 Edem Beach Bar and clothing 117 G Restaurant, Stalida 89 Courtyard, Gournia 30 gaming board, Irakleio El Greco 12, 56, 57 crafts, traditional 39, 121 Archaeological Museum credit cards 121, 124 El Greco Museum 37 15 Creta Helena, Chania 128 Ela, Chania 68, 101 Gavdos 46 Creta Paradise, Chania 126 Elafonisi 46, 50, 98 Gecko Bar, The Cretan Handicraft, electricity 117 Makrygialos 112 Mirthios 65 Elos 49, 62 Georgioupoli 44, 93 Cretan Journal (Lear) 57 Elounda 104 gerakokoudouna 60 Cretan sausages Elounda Gulf Villas 131 Gigilos and Volakia Peaks (loukanika) 66 Elounda Mare Hotel, 26 Cretaquarium, Irakleio 87 Elounda 69, 113, 126 giros 120 crime 125 Elounda Residence, Glika Nera (Sweetwater cruising and island- Elounda 128 beach) 98 hopping 119 emergencies 125 Gortys 7, 24–5, 34, 59, 79

133 Gournia 7, 30–31, 34, 106 Ibrahim Han Mosque, Kirkor Café, Irakleio 88 Gramvoussa Peninsula Rethymno 22 kithara 61 99 icons 121 Knosos see Ancient Grand Stairway, Phaestos Idaian cave 28, 59 Knosos 20 Ierapetra 105, 107 Komboloi 52, Chania 65 Great Staircase, Ilithia cave 59 Kornaros, Ioannis 42, 57 Ancient Knosos 9 Imbros Gorge 51, 52 Kornaros, Vinzentzos 57 Grecotel Creta Palace, Imeri Gramvousa 47 Koufonisi 47 Rethymno 126 Inatos grotto 59 Koules (Venetian Fortress), Index Greek coffee (kafe elliniko) Independence Day 63 Irakleio 12 67 insurance 125 Kouremenos 110 Greek Islands Club 119 internet 124 Kournas 48 grill restaurants 120 Irakleio 6, 12–13, 75, 80, Kourtaliotiko Gorge 51 guesthouses 130 82–3, 86 Koutsounari Cottages, Irakleio Archaeological Ierapetra 130 H Museum 6, 12, 14–15, Kritsa 48, 111 Hadzidakis, Joseph 10 36 KTEL buses 116 Halbherr, Federico 10, 20 islands 46–7 Kyria Maria, Rethymno Hall of Double Axes, Istro 110 68, 101 Ancient Knosos 9 Itanos 35, 111 Hall of Frescoes, Irakleio Itanos, Agios Nikolaos 71 L Archaeological Museum Itzedin Fort, Aptera 41 La Jetee, Paleochora 100 14 Lake Kournas 51 Hamam House, Vamos J Lake Votamos (Zaros) 51 131 jellyﬁsh 118 Landen Apan, Chania 65 Hamezi 49 jet skiing 47 language 124 Hania see Chania Jug of Reeds, Irakleio laouta 60 haniotis 61 Archaeological Museum Lasithi 50, 53, 80 harbour, Rethymno 23,95 15 Lato 48, 105 Hard Rock Café, Lato Boutique Hotel 127 Chersonisos 88 K Lear, Edward 57 hasapikos 61 Kafeneion O Minares, Lefka Ori see White Headwater Holidays 119 Rethymno 100 Mountains health tips 125 Kafeneion Yannis, Levin 35 heatstroke 118 Paleochora 100 lighthouse, Chania 19 Hellas, Elounda 112 Kafenio Rakadiko, Limin Chersonisos 44 Herakleion see Irakleio Siteia 73, 112 Lithines 107, 111 herbs 67, 121 Kali Kardia, Siteia 73 Local Products Exhibition, Hersonisos Kalives Beach Hotel 129 Farmers’ Union of Siteia see Chersonisos Kalliontzis, Koutsouras 64 Hippopotamos Bar, 113 Lord, Thou Art Great icon Chania 100 Kaloi Limenes 86 (Kornaros) 42, 57 history 32–3 Kalokairinos, Minos 11 Louis Creta Princess Club, hitch-hiking 122 kamakis 118 Maleme 129 hornets 118 Kamares cave 29, 59 Loukoulos, Irakleio 89 hospitals 125 Kanakakis, Lefteris 57 Loutro 53, 92 Hotel St Nicolas Bay, Kandanoleon, Georgios 41 lyra 60 Agios Nikolaos 126 Kapetaniana 53 hotels 123 Kariatis, Chania 68, 101 M beach hotels 129 Karnagio, Chania 68, 101 Makrygialos boutique hotels 127 Kastelli Kissamou 93 45, 104, 107, 110 luxury resorts 126 Kastri Village, Palaiocastro Malia 44, 74, 86 Hromonastiri 29 128 Malia Palace 34, 87 Kato Gouves (Gouvia) 86 mandinades 61 I Kato Zakros 110 Marilena, Elounda I Erganos, Irakleio 89 Kazantzakis, Nikos 71, 113 Iberostar Creta Panorama, 56, 57, 81 markets Rethymno 129 Kipouli, Malia 88 Chania 18, 64

134 markets (cont.) Mt Giouchtas 87 museums (cont.) Irakleio 13, 64, 82 Mt Idi (Psiloritis) 28, 53, Museum of Religious Rethymno 65, 94 80 see also Amari Valley Art, Irakleio 13, 37 Marmara (Marble beach) 98 Mt Kofinas 87 Natural History Matala 24, 44, 86 Mt Kofinas walk 53 Museum, Irakleio 13 Melidoni cave 59 Mövenpick Resort & Naval Museum, Chania Index Memorial to Peace, Thalasso 126 18 Nida Plateau 29 museum shops 64 Rethymno Archaeological Mesostrati, Rethymno 73 museums Museum 23, 36, 95 Metohi Kindelis, Chania 131 Agios Nikolaos Siteia Archaeological meze dishes 73 Archaeo logical Museum 36 mezedopoleion 120 Museum 36 Top Ten art and Milatos 110 Agios Nikolaos Folklore archaeological Milia Village 130 Museum 38 museums 36–7 Minoan Empire 21, 32, Archanes Collection Top Ten folklore 33 37, 87 museums 38–9 Minoan jewellery and Arolithos Museum of music 60–61, 119 helmets, Irakleio Agricultural History and Mycenaeans 33 Archaeological Popular Art 39 Mythos Suites, Rethymno Museum 14 Byzantine Collection, 127 Minoan villa site, Chania 19, 36 myths and legends 58–9 Tylissos 87 Chania Archaeological Minoan villa site, Museum 18, 36 N Vathypetrou 87 Cretan House Folklore Neos Alianthos Garden Minos, Irakleio 89 Museum, Chania Hotel, Plakias 129 Minos, King 8, 56, 58 19, 39 Nerandzes Mosque, Minos Beach Art ’Otel, El Greco Museum, Rethymno 22, 94 Agios Nikolaos 126 Fodele 37 Neroutsiko and Riza Minos Palace, Agios Folklore and Martial Sikias, Samaria Gorge 26 Nikolaos 126 Museum, Somatas 39, New York, Chersonisos 88 Minotaur 8, 58 Gortys Museum 25 newspapers 124 Mirtos 110 Historical and Folk Art nightlife 74 MoCafe, Irakleio 88 Museum, Rethymno Nikos Siragas, Rethymno Mochlos 105, 106 22, 38, 94 65 monasteries Historical and Folklore North Entrance Passage, Moni Agia Irini 99 Museum of Ancient Knossos 9 Moni Agia Triada 42 Gavalochori 39 Nostalgia Studios, Moni Arkadiou 42 Historical Museum of Georgioupoli 128 Moni Asomaton, Amari Crete, Irakleio 12, 83 Nostos, Chania 127 Valley 29 Ierapetra Archaeological Nostos Disco Bar, Moni Chrissopygis 43 Museum 37 Paleochora 100 Moni Gonia 99 Irakleio Archaeological Moni Gouverneto 42, 99 Museum 6, 12, 14–15, O Moni Kapsa 111 36 O Kyriakos, Irakleio 89 Moni Katholikou 43, 99 Kazantzakis Museum, Oasis beach, Chania 19 Moni Koudouma 87 Mirtia 81 octopus 67 Moni Preveli 42 Lychnostasis Open Air Odeion, Ierapetra 112 Moni Toplou 42, 106, 111 Museum of Folk Officers and Gentlemen Moni Vaisamonerou 57 Culture, Chersonisos 38 (Waugh) 57 Top Ten 42–3 Museum of the Battle of Old Mill, The, Elounda money 121, 124 Crete, Irakleio 13 69, 113 Morosini Fountain, Museum of Cretan olive oil 121 Irakleio 13, 83 Ethnology, Vori 38, 87 olives 66, 121 Mosque of the Museum of History, Omalos Plateau 51 Janissaries, Chania 19 Paleochora 38 opening hours 117, 121 mosquitoes 118 Museum Papa Michalis Oriental Bay, Paleochora motorbikes and scooters Georgoulakis, 101 116, 118 Asomatos 38 Ottoman Empire 32, 33

135 Out of the Blue Capsis Poste Restante 124 S Elite Resort 126 Potter’s workshop, St George’s Day 63 Ouzeri Manos, Ierapetra Gournia 31 saints 63 112 pottery 121 Samaria 27 ouzeries see cafés, bars Poulis, Elounda village 113 Samaria Gorge 7, 26–7, and ouzeries Praetorium, Gortys 24 52, 91 Praisos 35, 107, 111 San Marco and the P Preveli (Finikas) 98 Loggia, Irakleio 83 Pagopoieion, Irakleio 72 Profitis Ilias (Prophet Sanmichele, Michele 82 Index painting 119 Elijah) 63 santouri 60 Palace, Gournia 31 Profitis Ilias cave 59 Schiavo Bastion and Palace Workshops, psarotaverna 120 Venetian Walls, Phaestos 21 Psiloritis see Mt Idi Chania 19 Palazzo Rimondi, psitesteatoreon 120 Schliemann, Heinrich 11 Rethymno 127 pumphouse and fountain, scuba diving 47 Paleochora 41, 45, 75, 92 Irakleio 82 sea biscuit rides 47 Paleochora-Agia Roumeli sea urchins 118 boat trip 46 R Seagar, Richard 10 Pallas Café, Chania 72 RADAR 123 security tips 125 Panormos 86 radio 124 self-catering apartments Paradiso, Agia Galini 88 Raeck, Karen 29 and villas 123, 128, 131 passports 117 raki 66, 120 Sfakia region 92 pastry shops 120 see also tsikoudia Sfendoni cave 59 Paul-Eva Apartments, Raki Bar Pandelis, shopping Chersonissos 128 Sougia 100 tips 121 Pefki Gorge 111 rembetika 61 Top Ten markets and Pelekita cave, Kato Zakros Renault, Mary 57 shopping streets 64–5 111 restaurants and tavernas Shrine, Gournia 31 Pendlebury, John 10 120 Sideresportes, Samaria pentozalis 61 Central Crete 89 Gorge 27 Peristyle Hall, Phaestos 21 Eastern Crete 113 siganos 61 Phaestos 6, 20–21, 34, 79 Top Ten restaurants 68–9 Simply Crete 119 Phaestos Disc, Irakleio Top Ten tavernas 70–71 Siteia 45, 75, 103, 106, 110 Archaeological Museum Western Crete 101 Skotino cave 59 15 Rethymno 7, 22–3, 75, 91, snails (saligkaria) 67 pharmacies 125 94–5 Snake Goddess Figurines, Phokas, Nicephoros Rethymno beach 23 Irakleio Archaeological 33, 56 Rethymno Mare Royal 129 Museum 14 photography 118 retsina 66, 71, 120 snakes 118 Piano Nobile, Ancient riding 116, 119 snorkelling 47 Knosos 8 Rikos, Konstantinos 57 Sougia 92, 98 pidiktos 61 Rimondi Fountain, Sougia-Agia Roumeli walk Pink Flamingo, Sissi 89 Rethymno 23, 95 52 Plakias 44, 93 rizitiko 61 sousta 61 Platanias 74, 98 Rodopou Peninsula 99 South Portico, Plateia Venizelou, Irakleio Roka Carpets, Chania 65 Ancient Knosos 9 83 Roman Agora, Gortys 25 Spinalonga 40, 46, 104 Platon, Nikolaos 10, 35 Roman Amphitheatre, Spinalonga Village, Point Bar, Chania 100 Gortys 25 Elounda 130 Polyrinia 99 Roman Baths, Gortys 25 Stairway, Gournia 30 Porphyria, Makrygialos Roman Empire 32, 33 Stavros 98 69, 113 Roman Odeion and Code Sterna tou Bloumosifi, Porta Kenouria, Irakleio 82 of Laws, Gortys 24 Vamos 70, 101 Porto del Colombo, Rousa Eklisia 111 Storehouses, Ancient Chania 127 Royal Apartments, Knosos 8 Porto Loutro Hotel, Phaestos 21 Storerooms, Gournia 31 Loutro 129 Royal Mare Village, Storerooms and Pithoi, post offices 124 Limin Chersonisos 126 Phaestos 21

136 Stratos Restaurant, tourist ofﬁces 117 War Cemetery 99 Makrygialos 113 Town Mosaic, Irakleio War of Independence 32 Suites Pandora, Chania 127 Archaeological Museum Wash Basins, Gournia 31 Sultanina, Siteia 62 15 water, drinking 120 Summer Café, Matala 88 Travellers on the Way to Water’s Edge Café, The, sunburn 118 the Monastery of St Paleochora 100 Index Synagogi Bar, Chania 100 Catherine (El Greco) 57 waterskiing 47 syrtos 61 tsikoudia 66, 120 Waugh, Evelyn 57 TV 124 West Courtyard and T Theatre Area, Phaestos Ta Douliana, Douliana 70 V 20 Ta Grousouzadika, Irakleio Vai 50, 103, 106, 110 Western Crete 90–101 89 Vamos 119 bars and cafés 100 Tamam, Chania 68, 101 Vamos Houses, Vamos 131 beaches 98 Tarra (Old Agia Roumeli), Vamos Pension, Chania 130 map 90 Samaria Gorge 27 Vecchio Hotel Apartments, restaurants 101 Tavern Kato Zakros Bay 113 Rethymno 127 wheelchair access 123 Taverna Agios Ioannis 20 Venetian Acropolis and White Mountains (Lefka Taverna Androulidakis, Polyrinia 41 Ori) 50, 52, 90, 91 Gonya 71 Venetian Arsenal, White River Cottages, Taverna Auoas, Irakleio 12, 83 Makrygialos 130 Agios Nikolaos 71 Venetian Empire 33 wildlife of Crete 54–5, 119 Taverna Goules, Venetian Fortress, windsurﬁng 47, 119 Goulediana 70 Irakleio 13, 83 wines 66, 71, 120, 121 Taverna Pelagos, Venetian Fortress wood carving 121 Agios Nikolaos 113 (Fortetza), Rethymno 22, working holidays 122 Taverna tou Zissi, 40, 95 World War II 33 Rethymno 70, 101 Venetian Fortress, Siteia 41 tavernas see restaurants Venetian Gate (Porta X and tavernas Guora), Rethymno 23, 94 Xerocampos 110 tax 121 Venetian Loggia (Lotzia), Xilouris Popular Art, taxis 116 Rethymno 23, 95 Anogeia 65 telephones 124 Venetian Tower, Finikas, Xyloskalo, Samaria Gorge Temple of Isis and Loutro 41 26 Serapis, Gortys 25 Veneto, Rethymno 68, 101 Temple of Pythian Apollo, Venizelos, Eleftherios 33, 56 Y Gortys 24 Veterano, Ierapetra 112 yacht sailing 47 Thalassina, Irakleio 89 Villa Andromeda, Chania 127 youth hostels 122 Theotokopoulos, Villa Christina, Almirida 131 Ypsanta Selinou, Domenikos Villa Dafnes, Dafnes 131 Paleochora 65 see El Greco Villa Iason, Maleme 131 Throne Room, Villa Stratos, Kalonyktis 131 Z Ancient Knosos 9 villas 131 zacharoplasteion 120 Thronos 29 visas 117 Zakros 35, 107 To Farangi, Agia Roumeli Voila 49, 111 Zakros Gorge 53, 104 70 Voskakis Workshop, Zeus 56, 58, 59, 87 To Maxairadiko, Chania 65 Amari Valley 65 Zeus’s House, Lasithi 128 To Oneiro, Rethymno 73 voulgari 61 Zoo Bar, Malia 112 Top Hanas, Chania 65 Zorba the Greek Topolia 48 W (Kazantzakis) 56, 57, 60, tour companies 119 Wace, Alan 11 61, 81 Tourism for All 123 walking 52–3, 119 Zorbas, Siteia 70, 113

137 Acknowledgments

The Author Design and Editorial Assistance Robin Gauldie is a freelance travel Emma Anacootee, Jo Gardner, writer and photographer based in Victoria Heyworth-Dunne, Jacky the UK. Jackson, Maite Lantaron, Helen Partington, Rada Radojicic, Marisa Contributions Renzullo, Sands Publishing Carol Edwards Solutions, Liz Sharp, Karen Villabona, Dora Whitaker Produced by BLUE ISLAND PUBLISHING Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris Editorial Director Rosalyn Thiro Senior DTP Designer Jason Little

Acknowledgments Art Director Stephen Bere Senior Production Controller Sarah Dodd Associate Editor Picture Credits Michael Ellis Designer Additional Photography Lee Redmond Max Alexander, Joe Cornish, Philip Gatward, Derek Hall, David Murray, Picture Research Rob Reichenfeld, Clive Streeter. Ellen Root The publishers would like to thank Research Assistance all the museums, archaeological Amaia Allende sites, churches, monasteries, hotels, restaurants, bars, clubs, Main Photographers shops, galleries and other Robin Gauldie, establishments for their assistance Nigel Hicks and kind permission to photograph.

Index Placement Key: t=top; tl=top left; Jane Simmonds tr=top right; tc=top centre; trc=top right centre; c=centre; Fact Checkers ca=centre above; cra=centre right Michelle Crawford, above; cb=centre below; cr=centre right; b=bottom; bra=bottom right Liz and Paul Marsden above; bl=bottom left; br=bottom right; l=left AT DORLING KINDERSLEY AKG, LONDON: 32tl, 33tl, 59tl; Eric Publisher Lessing 32c, 56c, 58tr, 58c; ALAMY Douglas Amrine IMAGES: Glen Allison 75clb; IML Image Grouup 72br; ANCIENT Publishing Manager ART AND ARCHITECTURE: 57r; Helen Townsend ARDEA: 60tc; Bob Gibbons 52tr; Pascal Goetcheluch 54tr; Managing Art Editor ARGYROPOULOS PRESS PHOTO: Ian Midson 60tl, 61r, 62tl, 62b, 63tl; AVLI: 68bl. 138 BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY: RESTAURANT CAFE PARADISO: Fitzwilliam Museum, University of 88bc.

Cambridge, Pietro da Cortona’s Acknowledgments Allegory of the Labours of ROBERTHARDING.COM: Nelly Hercules 58tl; Museo Boyd 63r; Ken Gillham 61tl; Archaeologico, Bari 8b; Musée de Loraine Wison 47tl; Trevor Wood Petit Palais, Avignon, France, Peter 53t. of the Campana Cassoni’s, Defeat of Athens by Minos, King of Crete STOCKPHOTO: 60tr/c/b, 66bl, (panel) 56tl; Sto Tome, Toledo, 67tl; SYNAGOGI BAR: 100tl. Spain, El Greco’s Self Portrait, TRAVEL LIBRARY: Philip Enticknap (detail from the Burial of Count 62tr/ca. Orgaz, 1586–8) 56b. PETER WILSON: 46b, 50tr. CORBIS: Yann Arthus-Bertrand 46c; CHRISTIE’S IMAGES: 32b; All other images are © Dorling Gallo Images 54tl. Kindersley. For further information see www.dkimages.com. MARC DUBIN: 52tl, 52c. Cartography Credits GETTY IMAGES/HULTON Martin Darlison (Encompass ARCHIVE: Robert Harding World Graphics Ltd) Imagery/Marco Simoni 94tl; Topical Press Agency 57tl. Crete map derived from East View Cartographic database: HISTORICAL AND ART MUSEUM, www.cartographic.com RETHYMNO: 38b.

COURTESY OF KAZANTZAKIS PUBLICATIONS: 56tr.

COURTESY OF LYCHNOSTASIS OPEN AIR MUSEUM: 38c.

NHPA: Dr. Eckart Pott 54b; Karl Switak 55tl.

STEVE OUTRAM: 38tc, 50tl, 50b, 52b.

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139 Phrase Book In an Emergency Pleased to Chaíro pol’y. che-ro po-lee. meet you. Help! Voítheia! vo-ee-theea! What is your Pós légeste? pos le-ye-ste? Stop! Stamatíste! sta-ma-tee-steh! name?

Call a doctor! Fonáxte éna fo-nak-steh Where is/are…? Poú eínai...? poo ee-neā? giatró! e-na ya-tro! How far is it to…? Póso apéchei...? po-so a-pe-chee? Call an Kaléste to ka-le-steh to as- ambulance/ asthenofóro/ the-no-fo-ro/ How do I get to..? Pós mporó pos bo-ro-na tin teen a-sti-no-the na páo...? pa-o…? the police/ astynomía/tin mia/teen pee-ro- Do you speak Miláte mee-la-te ﬁre brigade! pyrosvestikí! zve-stee-kee! English? Angliká? an-glee-ka?

Where is the Poú eínai to poo ee-ne to I understand. Katalavaíno. ka-ta-la-ve-no. nearest plisiéstero plee-see-e-ste- telephone/ tiléfono/ ro tee-le-pho-no/ I don’t Den then ka-ta- hospital/ nosokomeío/ no-so-ko-mee-o/ understand katalavaíno. la-ve-no. pharmacy? farmakeío? far-ma-kee-o? Could you Miláte lígo pio mee-la-te lee- speak slowly? argá parakaló? go pyo ar-ga pa-ra-ka-lo? Communication Essentials I’m sorry. Me synchoreíte. me seen-cho- Yes Nai neh ree teh.

No Ochi o-chee Does anyone Echei kanénas e-chee ka-ne- Please Parakaló pa-ra-ka-lo have a key? kleidí? nas klee-dee?

Thank you Efcharistó ef-cha-ree-sto

You are welcome Parakaló pa-ra-ka-lo Useful Words

OK/alright Entáxei en-dak-zee big Megálo me-ga-lo

Excuse me Me synchoreíte me seen-cho- small Mikró mi-kro ree-teh hot Zestó zes-to

Hello Geiá sas yeea sas cold Kr’yo kree-o

Goodbye Antío an-dee-o good Kaló ka-lo

Good morning Kaliméra ka-lee-me-ra bad Kakó ka-ko

Good night Kalin’ychta ka-lee-neech- enough Arketá ar-ke-ta ta well Kalá ka-la Morning Proí pro-ee open Anoichtá a-neech-ta Afternoon Apógevma a-po-yev-ma closed Kleistá klee-sta Evening Vrádi vrath-i left Aristerá a-ree-ste-ra This morning Símera to proí see-me-ra to pro-ee right Dexiá dek-see-a

Yesterday Chthés chthes straight on Eftheía ef-thee-a between a-n -me-sa/ Today Símera see-me-ra Anámesa / a Metax’y me-tak-see Tomorrow Avrio av-ree-o on the corner of.. Sti gonía tou… stee go-nee-a too Here Edó ed-o near Kontá kon-da There Ekeí e-kee far Makriá ma-kree-a What? Tí? tee? up Epáno e-pa-no Why? Giatí? ya-tee? down Káto ka-to Where? Poú? poo? early Norís no-rees How? Pós? pos? late Argá ar-ga Wait! Perímene! pe-ree-me-neh! entrance I eísodos ee ee-so-thos How are you? Tí káneis? tee ka-nees? exit I éxodos ee e-kso-dos Very well, Poly kalá, po-lee ka-la, toilet Oi toualétes / ee-too-a-le-tes thank you. efcharistó. ef-cha-ree-sto. occupied/ Kateiliméni ka-tee-lee- How do you do? Pós eíste? pos ees-te? engaged me-nee

140 Note: words in bold (centre columns) are transliterated according to the system used by the Greek Government. However, this system is not used consistently throughout Crete, and visitors will encounter many variants on road signs, menus etc. unoccupied Eléftheri e-lef-the-ree This one. Aftó edó. af-to e-do.

free/no charge Doreán tho-re-an That one. Ekeíno. e-kee-no.

in/out Mésa/Exo me-sa/ek-so expensive Akrivó a-kree-vo

cheap Fthinó fthee-no

Making a Telephone Call size To mégethos to me-ge-thos

Where is the Poú vrísketai poo vrees-ke- white Lefkó lef-ko nearest public o plisiésteros teh o plee-see- black Mávro mav-ro telephone? tilefonikós e-ste-ros tee- thálamos? le-fo-ni-kos red Kókkino ko-kee-no tha-la-mos? yellow Kítrino kee-tree-no I would like to Tha íthela na tha ee-the-la na place a káno éna ka-no e-na green Prásino pra-see-no long-distance yperastikó ee-pe-ra-sti-ko blue Mple bleh call. tilefónima. tee-le-fo-nee-ma.

I would like Tha íthela na tha ee-the-la to reverse chreóso to na chre-o-so to Types of Shop the charges. tilefónima tee-le-fo-nee-ma antique shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee me ston paralípti. ston pa-ra-lep-tee. antíkes an-dee-kes

I will try Tha tha ksa-na- bakery O foúrnos o foor-nos again later. xanatilefoníso tee-le-fo-ni-so argótera. ar-go-te-ra. bank I trápeza ee tra-pe-za

Can I leave Mporeíte bo-ree-te na bazaar To pazári to pa-za-ree a message? na tou afísete too a-fee-se-teh bookshop To vivliopoleío to vee-vlee-o éna mínyma? e-na mee- -po-lee-o nee-ma? butcher To kreopoleío to kre-o-po-lee-o Could you Miláte mee-la-teh speak up a dynatótera, dee-na-to-te cake shop To zacharo- to za-cha-ro-pla- little please? parakaló? -ra, pa-ra-ka-lo? plasteío stee-o

Hold on. Periménete. pe-ri-me-ne-teh. cheese shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee me allantiká a-lan-dee-ka local call Topikó to-pi-ko tee-le- tilefónima fo-nee-ma department store Polykatástima Po-lee-ka-ta- stee-ma OTE telephone O OTE /To o O-TE /To tee- ofﬁce tilefoneío le-fo-nee-o ﬁshmarket To to eech-thee-o- ichthyopoleío/ po-lee-o phone box/kiosk O tilefonikós o tee-le-fo-ni-kos psarádiko /psa-rá-dee-ko thálamos tha-la-mos greengrocer To manáviko to ma-na-vee-ko phone card I tilekárta ee tee-le-kar-ta hairdresser To kommotírio to ko-mo-tee-ree-o

kiosk To períptero to pe-reep-te-ro Shopping leather shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee me How much Póso kánei? po-so ka-nee? dermátina eíd ther-ma-tee-na does this cost? ee-thee I would like… Tha íthela… tha ee-the-la… street market I laïkí agorá ee la-ee-kee Do you have…? Echete…? e-che-tehā? a-go-ra

I am just looking. Aplós koitáo. a-plos kee-ta-o. newsagent O O e-fee-me- eﬁmeridopólis ree-tho-po-lees Do you take travellers’ the-ches-teh credit cards/ cheques pee-sto-tee-kes pharmacy To farmakeío to far-ma-kee-o travellers’ Décheste kar-tes/ post ofﬁce To to ta-chee- cheques? pistotikés travellers tachydromeío thro-mee-o kártes/ cheques? travellers’ shoe shop Katástima y ka-ta-stee-ma cheques? podimáton ee-po-dee- ma-ton What time do Póte anoígete/ po-teh a-nee-ye- you open/close? kleínete? teh/ klee-ne-teh? souvenir shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee “souvenir” meh “souvenir” Can you ship Mporeíte na to bo-ree-teh na to this overseas? steílete sto stee-le-teh sto supermarket “Supermarket” “Supermarket” exoterikó? e-xo-te-ree ko? / Yperagorá / ee-per-a-go-ra

Bold letters in the pronunciation guides (right columns) indicate 141 the stressed syllable. tobacconist Eídi kapnistoú Ee-thee kap-nees statue To ágalma to a-gal-ma

travel agent To taxeidiotikó to tak-see-thy-o- theatre To théatro to the-a-tro grafeío tee-ko gra-fee-o town hall To dimarcheío to thee-mar-chee- o Sightseeing closed on kleistó tis klee-sto tourist O EOT o E-OT public holidays argíes tees aryee-es information

tourist police I touristikí ee too-rees-tee- astynomía kee a-stee-no- Transport mee-a

archaeological archaiologikós ar-che-o-lo-yee- When does the Póte févgei po-teh fev- kos … leave? to…? yee to…?

art gallery I gkalerí ee ga-le-ree Where is the Poú eínai i poo ee-neh ee beach I paralía ee pa-ra-lee-a bus stop? stási tou sta-see too le-o- leoforeíou? fo-ree-oo…? Byzantine vyzantinós vee-zan-dee-nos Is there a Ypárchei ee-par-chee castle To kástro to ka-stro bus to? leoforeío gia…? le-o-fo- cathedral I mitrópoli ee mee-tro- ree-o yia…? po-lee ticket ofﬁce Ekdotíria Ek-tho-tee-reea cave To spílaio to spee-le-o

church I ekklisía ee e-klee-see-a eisitiríon ee-see-tee-ree-on

folk art laïkí téchni la-ee-kee tech- return ticket Eisitírio me ee-see-tee-ree-o nee epistrofí meh e-pee- stro-fee fountain To syntriváni to seen-dree- va-nee single journey Apló eisitírio a-plo ee-see-tee- hill O lófos o lo-fos reeo

historical istorikós ee-sto-ree-kos bus station O stathmós o stath-mos leoforeíon leo-fo-ree-on island To nisí to nee-see

lake I límni ee leem-nee bus ticket Eisitírio ee-see-tee-ree-o leoforeíou leo-fo-ree-oo library I vivliothíki ee veev-lee-o- thee-kee trolley bus To trólley to tro-le-ee

mansion I épavlis ee e-pav-lees port To limán to lee-ma-nee

monastery moní mo-ni train/metro To tréno to tre-no mountain To vounó to voo-no railway station sidirodromikós see-thee-ro- municipal dimotikós thee-mo-tee-kos stathmós thro-mee-kos stath-m s museum To mouseío to moo-see-o o

national ethnikós eth-nee-kos moped To to mo-to-po- motopodílato/ thee-la-to/to park To párko to par-ko To michanáki mee-cha-na-kee garden O kípos o kee-pos bicycle To podílato to po-thee-la-to gorge To farángi to fa-ran-gee taxi To taxí to tak-see grave of…. O táfos tou… o ta-fos too airport To aerodrómio to a-e-ro-thro- river To potámi to po-ta-mee mee-o road O drómos o thro-mos ferry To “ferry-boat” to fe-ree-bot saint ágios/ágioi/ a-yee-os/a-yee- agía/agíes ee/a-yee-a/ hydrofoil To delfíni / to del-fee-nee / a-yee-es To ydroptérygo To ee-throp-te- ree-go spring I pigí ee pee-yee catamaran To katamarán to catamaran square I plateía ee pla-tee-a for hire Enoikiázontai e-nee-kya-zon- stadium To stádio to sta-thee-o deh

142 Note: words in bold (centre columns) are transliterated according to the system used by the Greek Government. However, this system is not used consistently throughout Crete, and visitors will encounter many variants on road signs, menus etc. Staying in a Hotel breakfast To proïnó to pro-ee-no lunch To to me-see- Do you have Echete e-che-teh tho- mesimerianó mer-ya-no a vacant room? domátia? ma-tee-a? dinner To deípno to theep-no I have a Echo kánei e-cho ka-nee reservation. krátisi. kra-tee-see. main course To kyríos to kee-ree-os gévma yev-ma double room Díklino me thee-klee-no with double bed dipló kreváti meh thee-plo starter/ﬁrst course Ta orektiká ta o-rek-tee-ka kre-va-tee dessert To glykó to ylee-ko twin room Díklino me thee-klee-no dipló kreváti meh mo-na dish of the day To piáto tis i to pya-to tees kre-vat-ya méras ee-me-ras single room Monóklino mo-no-klee-no bar To “bar” To bar room with a Domátio me tho-ma-tee-o taverna I tavérna ee ta-ver-na bath mpánio meh ban-yo café To kafeneío to ka-fe-nee-o shower To douz To dooz ﬁsh taverna I psarotavérna ee psa-ro- porter O portiéris o por-tye-rees ta-ver-na key To kleidí to klee-dee grill house I psistariá ee psee-sta-rya room with a sea Domátio me tho-ma-tee-o wine shop To oinopoleío to ee-no-po-lee-o view/balcony théa sti meh the-a stee dairy shop To galakto- to ga-lak-to- thálassa/ tha-la-sa/bal- poleío po-lee-o mpalkóni ko-nee restaurant To estiatório to e-stee- Does the To proïnó to pro-ee-no a-to-ree-o price include symperi- seem-be-ree-lam- breakfast? lamvánetai va-ne-teh steen ouzeri To ouzerí to oo-ze-ree stin timí? tee-mee? meze shop To To me-ze- mezedopoleío do-po-lee-o

Eating Out take away kebabs To souvlatzídiko To soo-vlat- Have you Echete trapézi? e-che-te zee-dee-ko got a table? tra-pe-zee? rare Eláchista e-lach-ees-ta I want to Thélo na the-lo na kra- psiméno psee-me-no reserve a table. kratíso éna tee-so e-na tra- medium Métria met-ree- trapézi. pe-zee. psiméno a psee-me-no The bill, please. Ton ton lo-gar-yas- well done Kalopsiméno ka-lo-psee-me-no logariazmó mo pa-ra-ka-lo parakaló..

I am a Eímai ee-meh Basic Food and Drink vegetarian. chortofágos. chor-to-fa-gos. coffee O Kafés o ka-fes What is Tí frésko tee fres-ko with milk me gála me ga-la fresh today? échete símera? e-che-teh see- me-ra? black coffee skétos ske-tos without sugar cho-re s waiter/waitress K’yrie/Garson”/ Kee-ree-eh/ chorís záchari e Kyría Gar-son/ za-cha-ree Kee-ree-a medium sweet métrios me-tree-os menu O katálogos o ka-ta-lo-gos very sweet glyk’ys glee-kees cover charge To “couvert” to koo-ver tea tsái tsa-ee wine list O katálogos o ka-ta-lo-gos hot chocolate zestí sokoláta ze-stee me ta oinopne- meh ta ee-no- so-ko-la-ta vmatódi pnev-ma-to- thee wine krasí kra-see glass To potíri to po-tee-ree red kókkino ko-kee-no bottle To mpoukáli to bou-ka-lee white lefkó lef-ko knife To machaíri to ma-che-ree rosé rozé ro-ze fork To piroúni to pee-roo-nee raki To rakí to ra-kee spoon To koutáli to koo-ta-lee ouzo To oúzo to oo-zo

Bold letters in the pronunciation guides (right columns) indicate 143 the stressed syllable. retsina I retsína ee ret-see-na 100 ekató e-ka-to

water To neró to ne-ro 200 diakósia thya-kos-ya

octopus To chtapódi to chta-po-dee 1,000 chília cheel-ya

ﬁsh To psári to psa-ree 2,000 d’yo chiliádes thee-o cheel- cheese To tyrí to tee-ree ya-thes

halloumi To chaloúmi to cha-loo-mee 1,000,000 éna e-na e-ka-to- ekatomm’yrio mee-ree-o feta I féta ee fe-ta one minute éna leptó e-na lep-to bread To psomí to pso-mee one hour mía óra mee-a o-ra bean soup I fasoláda ee fa-so-la-da half an hour misí óra mee-see o-ra houmous To houmous to choo-moos quarter of -na t -tar-to halva O chalvás o chal-vas éna tétarto e e

meat kebabs O g’yros o yee-ros an hour

Turkish delight To loukoúmi to loo-koo-mee half past one mía kai misí mee-a keh mee-see baklava O mpaklavás o bak-la-vas quarter past one mía kai tétarto mee-a keh klephtiko To kléftiko to klef-tee-ko te-tar-to

ten past one mía kai déka mee-a keh Numbers the-ka 1 éna e-na quarter to two d’yo pará thee-o tétarto pa-ra te-tar-to 2 d’yo thee-o ten to two d’yo pará déka thee-o 3 tría tree-a pa-ra the-ka 4 téssera te-se-ra a day mía méra mee-a me-ra 5 pénte pen-deh a week mía evdomáda mee-a ev- 6 éxi ek-si tho-ma-tha

7 eptá ep-ta a month énas mínas e-nas mee-nas

8 ochtó och-to a year énas chrónos e-nas chro-nos

9 ennéa e-ne-a Monday Deftéra thef-te-ra

10 déka the-ka Tuesday Tríti tree-tee 11 énteka en-de-ka Wednesday Tetárti te-tar-tee 12 dódeka tho-the-ka Thursday Pémpti pemp-tee 13 dekatría de-ka-tree-a Friday Paraskeví pa-ras-ke-vee 14 dekatéssera the-ka-tes-se-ra Saturday Sávvato sa-va-to 15 dekapénte the-ka-pen-de Sunday Kyriakí keer-ee-a-kee 16 dekaéxi the-ka-ek-si January Ianouários ee-a-noo-a-ree-os 17 dekaeptá the-ka-ep-ta February Fevrouários fev-roo-a-ree-os 18 dekaochtó the-ka-och-to March Mártios mar-tee-os 19 dekaennéa the-ka-e-ne-a April Aprílios a-pree-lee-os 20 eíkosi ee-ko-see May Máios ma-ee-os 21 eikosiéna ee-ko-see-e-na June Ioúnios ee-oo-nee-os 30 triánta tree-an-da

40 saránta sa-ran-da July Ioúlios ee-oo-lee-os

50 penínta pe-neen-da August Avgoustos av-goo-stos

60 exínta ek-seen-da September Septémvrios sep-tem-vree-os

70 evdomínta ev-tho-meen-da October Októvrios ok-to-vree-os

80 ogdónta og-thon-da November Noémvrios no-em-vree-os

90 enenínta e-ne-neen-da December Dekémvrios the-kem-vree-os

144 Note: words in bold (centre columns) are transliterated according to the system used by the Greek Government. However, this system is not used consistently throughout Crete, and visitors will encounter many variants on road signs, menus etc.