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Greek Islands 11

Greek Islands 11

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Greek

Northeastern Evia & the Ionian p419 Islands p480 p508 & Around p68 Saronic p173 Gulf Islands p152 p340

Crete p281

Simon Richmond, Kate Armstrong, Stuart Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Maric, Kate Morgan, Isabella Noble, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Greg Ward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to the Greek ATHENS & AROUND. . . 68 Angistri ...... 158 Islands...... 6 Athens ...... 72 ...... 159 Greek Islands’ Top 15 . . . . 10 Athens Ports ...... 139 Poros Town ...... 160 What’s New...... 18 ...... 139 Around Poros...... 161 ...... 162 Need to Know...... 20 ...... 142 Lavrio...... 143 Hydra Town ...... 163 First Time Greek Islands.22 Around Athens...... 143 Around Hydra...... 169 If You Like ...... 24 ...... 143 ...... 169 Month by Month. . . . . 26 Cape ...... 147 Mt ...... 148 CYCLADES ...... 173 Itineraries ...... 30 Marathon & Around. . . . . 148 ...... 175 Island Hopping...... 34 Vravrona ...... 149 Gavrio ...... 176 Cruising...... 40 Peania ...... 149 Batsi ...... 176 Escaping the Crowds. . . 45 Elefsina...... 150 Hora (Andros) ...... 177 Around Andros...... 178 Eat & Drink Like a Local...... 51 ...... 179 Hora (Tinos) ...... 180 Outdoor Activities. . . . . 57 ISLANDS ...... 152 ...... 154 Around Tinos...... 182 Family Travel...... 61 Aegina Town ...... 156 ...... 183 Regions at a Glance. . . . 64 Around Aegina...... 157 ...... 185 KIRKFISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RHODES P342 Contents

ON THE ROAD

Around Syros...... 187 Around ...... 267 ...... 188 ...... 267 RANDREI/SHUTTERSTOCK © Hora (Mykonos) ...... 190 ...... 268 Around Mykonos...... 196 Kamares ...... 269 ...... 201 ...... 270 ...... 204 Kastro ...... 271 Parikia ...... 205 Around Sifnos ...... 271 Naoussa ...... 208 ...... 272 Around Paros...... 210 Livadi ...... 273 ...... 210 Hora (Serifos) ...... 274 ...... 212 ...... 275 NAXOS P212 Hora (Naxos) ...... 214 Merihas ...... 275 The North...... 220 Hora (Kythnos) ...... 276 Mohlos ...... 334 Southwest . . . . 220 Loutra ...... 277 ...... 334 ...... 220 ...... 278 Around Sitia...... 335 Apiranthos ...... 222 ...... 278 & Kato Zakros . . . . 336 Small Cyclades ...... 222 Ioulida ...... 278 ...... 337 Iraklia ...... 223 Around Kea...... 280 ...... 338 Schinousa ...... 225 Plateau...... 339 ...... 226 ...... 281 ...... 227 Iraklio Province. . . . . 284 DODECANESE. . . .. 340 ...... 228 Iraklio ...... 285 ...... 342 Katapola ...... 230 ...... 292 Rhodes Town ...... 344 Hora (Amorgos) ...... 231 Iraklio Country. . . . 296 Northeastern Rhodes . . . . .355 Aegiali ...... 232 Zaros ...... 297 ...... 355 Around Amorgos...... 233 Matala ...... 298 Southeastern Rhodes . . . . 357 ...... 234 Hersonisos ...... 299 ...... 238 Western Rhodes Province. . . . 300 & the Interior...... 358 ...... 240 Rethymno ...... 300 Halki ...... 362 Oia ...... 248 West of Rethymno . . . . . 305 Emborios ...... 362 Around Santorini...... 250 East of Rethymno. . . . . 306 Around Halki ...... 363 ...... 254 South of Rethymno . . . . 309 ...... 364 ...... 255 Hania Province...... 313 Pigadia ...... 364 ...... 258 Hania ...... 313 Southern Karpathos. . . . 366 Karavostasis ...... 259 ...... 321 Diafani ...... 368 Hora (Folegandros) . . . . 260 Around Kissamos...... 322 ...... 369 Ano Meria ...... 262 Gorge...... 323 Fry ...... 369 Milos ...... 262 Southern Coast...... 323 Around Kasos ...... 371 Adamas ...... 263 Lasithi Province. . . . . 328 ...... 371 , Trypiti & ...... 328 Triovasalos ...... 265 Kastellorizo Village . . . . . 372 Around Agios Nikolaos . . . .332 Pollonia ...... 266 ...... 374 ON THE ROAD

Gialos ...... 375 ...... 399 Around Lipsi...... 418 Around Symi ...... 377 ...... 400 ...... 378 Western Kalymnos. . . . . 402 NORTHEASTERN Livadia ...... 378 Islet ...... 404 AEGEAN Megalo Horio...... 380 ...... 405 ISLANDS...... 419 Northwest Tilos...... 381 Platanos & ...... 421 ...... 382 Agia Marina ...... 406 ...... 423 Mandraki ...... 382 Pandeli...... 407 ...... 425 Around Nisyros...... 384 Vromolithos...... 408 Kambos ...... 425 ...... 386 Lakki...... 408 Hristos Rahes ...... 427 Kos Town ...... 387 Xirokambos ...... 409 Armenistis ...... 427 Around Kos...... 393 Krithoni & Alinda . . . . . 409 ...... 430 & ...... 410 Fourni Islands ...... 430 Kefalos Bay ...... 394 Skala ...... 411 ...... 432 Astypalea ...... 395 Hora ...... 413 Vathy ...... 433 Pera Gialos & Hora . . . . 396 North of Skala...... 414 Pythagorio ...... 436 Livadi...... 398 South of Skala...... 415 Around Pythagorio. . . . . 438 West of Pera Gialos. . . . . 398 Lipsi ...... 417 Northern Samos...... 439 East of Pera Gialos. . . . . 399 Lipsi Village ...... 417 ...... 441 PAWELKAZMIERCZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HORA (MYKONOS) P190 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Chios Town ...... 443 ...... 502 History...... 556 Northern Chios...... 446 Skyros Town ...... 503 Ancient Southern Chios...... 449 Magazia & Molos . . . . . 505 Greek Culture...... 568 Lesvos ...... 451 Linaria ...... 506 The Islanders ...... 572 Mytilini Town ...... 454 Around Skyros...... 507 The Arts...... 576 Northern Lesvos...... 456 Western Lesvos...... 458 . . . 508 ...... 581 Southern Lesvos...... 461 ...... 510 Nature & Wildlife. . . . 585 Limnos ...... 463 Corfu Town ...... 512 Myrina ...... 463 Northern Corfu...... 519 SURVIVAL Western Limnos ...... 465 Western Corfu...... 521 GUIDE Eastern Limnos...... 469 ...... 523 Samothraki ...... 470 Gaïos ...... 524 Directory A–Z...... 590 Kamariotissa Loggos ...... 525 & Around...... 470 Lakka ...... 526 Transport...... 597 Hora (Samothraki) ...... 471 ...... 526 Language...... 605 Loutra ...... 473 Lefkada Town ...... 528 ...... 474 Index...... 612 Eastern Lefkada ...... 529. Limenas ...... 475 Behind the Scenes. . . . 610 Vasiliki ...... 530 Western Thasos...... 476 Western Lefkada...... 531 Map Legend...... 620 Eastern Thasos...... 478 Central Lefkada...... 532 Our Writers ...... 622 Kefallonia ...... 532 EVIA & ...... 534 THE SPORADES . . 480 Around Argostoli...... 537 Evia ...... 482 Peninsula ...... 537 Halkida ...... 482 Sami & Around ...... 538 ...... 483 ...... 539 Steni ...... 483 Ithaki ...... 541 Northern Evia...... 484 Vathy ...... 542 Southern Evia ...... 485 Around Ithaki...... 543 ...... 487 ...... 544 Skiathos Town ...... 488 Zakynthos Town ...... 545 SPECIAL Around Skiathos...... 490 Around Zakynthos ...... 547 FEATURES ...... 492 ...... 549 Island Hopping...... 34 Skopelos Town ...... 492 Hora (Kythira) ...... 551 Cruising...... 40 Glossa & Loutraki . . . . . 495 Kapsali ...... 552 Around Skopelos...... 496 Escaping Potamos ...... 553 the Crowds...... 45 ...... 497 Agia Pelagia ...... 553 in 3D...... 82 ...... 497 Around Kythira...... 553 Old Alonnisos ...... 499 Palace of Around Alonnisos...... 501 Knossos in 3D...... 294 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 30

Itineraries

ATHENS Rafina #_ É #• É #f A E G E A N É S E A

É #• Mykonos #• Delos É CYCLADES #f #– #• Paros #• Naxos M Y R T O Ö N S E A

É

#f É

#• S E A O F C R E T E Santorini ()

A E G E A N S E A

10 DAYS Athens & the Cyclades

Perfect for the time-pressed, this island-hopping itinerary includes magnificent Athens, a few popular, bustling islands, and chilling out in quieter havens. Transport between these islands and the mainland is plentiful. Spend a couple of days in Athens, visiting the Acropolis, exploring the Ancient and wandering through the Acropolis and archaeological . There’s also the capital’s excellent contemporary art and food scenes as well as brilliant nightlife. Catch a from Rafina to spend a day or two on chic Mykonos and enjoy the colourful harbour, vibrant bars and beaches full of sun worshippers. Take a day trip to sacred Delos and explore ancient ruins. Hop on a ferry to Naxos, the greenest of the Cy- clades with its hilltop, Venetian-walled Old Town, quaint villages and sugar-soft beaches. Move on to Paros, whose cobbled capital is filled with trendy boutiques and excellent dining. Head to the seaside village of Naoussa for excellent seafood. Lastly, visit spectacular Santorini, aka Thira, for stunning sunset views. Explore excellent wineries and volcanic beaches, along with the truly impressive Minoan site of Akrotiri. From here, catch a flight back to Athens. 31

#_ E G E A N S E A

TURKEY

Patmos •# É É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

É –# f# Kos

•# É Kefalos Bay •#

•# É f# Nisyros •# Rhodes Town É

Rhodes It

f# i nerar i es

Spinalonga É Island É Iraklio Malia •# •# •# •# Vaï M E D I T E R R A N E A N Crete •# É •# Knossos •# •# •# S E A Lasithi Agios Sitia Zakros Gorge Plateau Nikolaos

4 WEEKS Crete & the Dodecanese

Eastern Crete offers a tranquil side of the island with relaxed resorts and impressive sights. From here it’s a short hop to the neighbouring Dodecanese, with their wealth of culture and speedy catamaran services that make island hopping a breeze. Begin in Iraklio, taking in the excellent archaeological . Make a day trip to the captivating Minoan ruins of Knossos before sampling fine vintages in the Iraklio Wine Country, a of shapely hills, sun-baked slopes and lush valleys. From Iraklio head east along the northern coast to the relaxed of Agios Nikolaos, which radiates charm and chilled ambience. This makes a great base for ex- ploring the surrounding region. Explore the massive Venetian fortress on Island, a leper until 1957 and just a short ferry ride across the Gulf of Mirabello. Visit the surrounding Minoan ruins, such as the Palace of Malia, still filled with mys- teries, and rent a bike to explore the tranquil villages of the fertile , lying snugly between mountain ranges and home to ’ birthplace. Continue on to Sitia, from where you can head for the clear water and white of Vaï, Europe’s only natural palm-forest . You can also head south from here to Zak- ros to hike through the dramatic, cave-honeycombed Zakros Gorge to Kato Zakros and its Minoan palace. From Sitia, get settled on a twice-weekly, 12-hour ferry ride to Rhodes. Spend a cou- ple of days exploring the atmospheric, walled medieval Old Town and checking out its burgeoning nightlife. Visit some of the surrounding beaches and stunning Acropolis of Lindos. Catch a catamaran to lush Nisyros to explore atop the alarmingly thin crust of its and then carry on to Kos to spend a couple of days on gorgeous, sandy Kefalos Bay and to sip coffee and cocktails in Kos Town’s lively squares. There still may be time to squeeze in a quick trip to Patmos to experience its artistic and religious vibe, and to visit the cave where St John wrote the Book of Revelations, before backtracking to Kos from where you can catch onward flights to Athens.

HOLGS/GETTY IMAGES © ) 510 Santorini Santorini ) Corfu (p 238 Top: Bottom: (p ARTIE PHOTOGRAPHY (ARTIE NG)/GETTY IMAGES © 32 33

aanIa

reee Corfu •# É f# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Paxi •#

É

f#

É Lefkada IONIAN •# #– It ISLANDS i nerar

Ithaki •# É

I O N I A N S E A •# Kefallonia i es

f# É •# Zakynthos

10 DAYS The

The Ionian Islands offer beautiful architecture, scrumptious food, flour-soft beaches and dramatic scenery. There are also plenty of outdoor activities to enjoy in this island group. Both the start and end of this itinerary are reachable by short, scenic flights from Athens. Begin your tour in Corfu, where you can easily spend a couple of days wandering through the amazing blend of Italian, French and British architecture in Corfu Old Town, set between two spellbinding fortresses. The arcaded promenade is a hive of cafes, boutiques and where you can indulge in gourmet cuisine that packs a heavy Italian influen-ce. Take in the island’s world-class museums, such as the Corfu Museum of Asian Art, and its fortresses – the views from the Byzantine stronghold of Angelokas- tro on the west coast are unforgettable. Explore picturesque coastal villages and lounge on fantastic sandy beaches. If you want to expend a bit more energy, Corfu is also a great place for windsurfing, or try biking in the island’s mountainous interior. From Corfu, hop on a ferry to tiny Paxi, where ancient groves and windmills dot the interior while tranquil coves beckon from the coastline. Snorkel in the crystal- line water and dine on seafood in colourful, Venetian-style harbour towns that beg you to stay. Drag yourself away to the west-coast beaches of Lefkada, where you can take water taxis to isolated stretches of sand and turquoise water. Head to the southern tip to windsurf before carrying on to sleepy Ithaki, where you can walk the paths of and feel inspired by ancient Byzantine churches and . Hop over to neighbouring Kefallonia; overnight in the picturesque village of Fisk- ardo, with its top restaurants. Kayak to isolated golden beaches and sample the island’s unique, well-regarded local wine. Explore the Paliki Peninsula with its red clay cliffs, hilltop villages and powdery beaches. Catch a boat south to Zakynthos to take in the fabulous Byzantine Museum, then head for the verdant southern cape to escape the crowds. This island is the nesting ground of the endangered loggerhead turtle. From here you can grab a flight back to Corfu or on to Athens. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 610

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

WRITER THANKS Peter Dragicevich Simon Richmond It’s always a complete delight to have company on Many thanks to the following: Steve Boyd, Valie the road, especially when it comes in the form of one Voutsa, Vangelis Koronakis, Yannis Bournias, Nikos of your very best friends. Thank you, Mills, for Tsoniotis, Danae Zaoussis, Zora O’Neill, Harry and being so diligent in assisting me in researching the Jane Lushington, and Brana Vladisavljevic for hiring Mykonos nightlife. Special thanks are also due to me for a great gig. editor extraordinaire Brana Vladisavljevic for all of the support and opportunities you’ve given me over Kate Armstrong the years. I’d be a trillionaire for all the times I’ve uttered efharisto poli to the helpful who’ve opened Trent Holden their hearts. Especially Eleni and Yiannis (Kalymnos), First up, a huge thanks to the destination editor, Michalis of Michalis Studios (Lipsi), the Alexakis Brana Vladisavljevic, not only for commissioning me family (Alexakis ; Kos), Michalis (Café Angolo on this title, but for all her work at Lonely Planet over Italiano; Karpathos), George (Euromoto; Karpathos), the past 15 years. You will be missed! Also sending fabulous walkers Mike and John (Tilos), Tonia, Maria out my gratitude to the Cretan people who make and Christina (Leros). Brana V, DE extraordinaire, this island so special with their humbling hospitality, you were the best of the LP best to work with. good humour and willingness to help out at all times. Finally, fellow Gemini Apostolos, without whom my Finally lots of love to my fiancée Kate Morgan, and to would have stalled in the Meltemi winds. my family and friends. Stuart Butler Anna Kaminski Thank you once again to my wife, Heather, and Huge thanks to Brana for entrusting me with half of children, Jake and Grace, for putting up with me the Cyclades, and to everyone who’s helped me along sauntering off to sunny while they were stuck the way. In particular: Alex in Halki (Naxos), Apostolos at home. And then I must thank them again for being of Oia in Santorini, the lifeguard who rescued the best travel partners I could ever want when they me when I was swept out to sea on a paddleboard flew out to Corfu to join me towards the end of my in Ios, Kostas in Folegandros, Alix and Semeli in research. Thank you also to Brana for giving me this Amorgos, Flora in Antiparos, plus all wine experts on dream gig in the first place. Sikinos, Paros, Santorini and in Naxos who’ve contrib- uted to my ongoing oenological education. 611 Vesna Maric Kevin Raub Many thanks to Brana Vladisavljevic, who commis- Thanks to Brana Vladisavljevic and all my fellow sioned the project – it was always an absolute joy partners in crime at LP. On the road, Kjetil Jikiun, to work with her. Thanks to Stathis Kampouridis for Giorges Kteniadakis, Andria Mitsakis, Iossif Ser- his generosity in Athens. afimidis, Dr Emmanuel Prokopkis and the nurses at Pagni, and Nikos and the brews of Kykao

Kate Morgan and Solo. SCENES THE BEHIND Huge thanks to amazing destination editor Brana for commissioning me to work on Crete, LP won’t Andrea Schulte-Peevers be the same without you. Thank you to Despina in Heartfelt thank yous to Kerstin Göllrich for her Hania for all of your assistance, to the staff at the patience, curiosity, stamina and awesome driving Hania tourist information office for your help and skills; Johannes Bolz for literally going the extra to all of the amazing Cretans I met along the way mile for me in the Kritsa Gorge; Konstantinos and – your generosity and hospitality is unforgettable. Natalie Zivas for wonderful insider tips on And, as always, thank you to my fiancé Trent for and the north coast, and father Vaggelis for his being the best travel companion and for driving me kitchen wizardry; Alaska Klaus for his insights into all over Hania. hiking the E4; Margarita Kurowska and Jutta Berger for keeping things under control on the home front; Isabella Noble and David for being with me in spirit. Efharisto to all the wonderful people who helped out on the road and back at home. Denis in Skia- Greg Ward thos; Heather, Alexandra, Voula, Kostas, Valeria and Many thanks to all the wonderful people who Natasa in Skopelos; Mary, Pakis, Paul, Angela and helped me along the way, and who created so many Justine in Alonnisos; Lefteris, Katerina, Chrysanthi, happy memories. And thanks above all to my dear Amanda and Nikos in Skyros; Marina, Giorgios wife, Sam, for sharing such an amazing trip. and Steven in Evia. Back at home, thanks to Jack, Andrew, Papi and Sarah. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Leonid Ragozin Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson I would like to thank Christos of Ikaria Utopia for BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of helping to get my head around new things on the the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology island; Samos Volunteers for insights into the ref- and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. ugee situation; Manolis of Belvedere in Pythogario Illustrations pp148–9 and pp336–7 by Javier for good tips about Samos; Paulette Roberge for Zarracina. opening the doors of her splendid Inousses villa; dozens of other friendly and hospitable people who Cover photograph: Oia old town, Santorini; Dmitry shared ideas and pointed me in the right direction. Morgan/Shutterstock © I also feel very grateful to Greece for its very exist- ence – it’s a great and beloved country.

Helena Smith, Greg Ward and Assisting Cartographer THIS BOOK Richard Waters. James Leversha This 11th edition of Lonely This guidebook was pro- Assisting Book Designers Planet’s Greek Islands guide- duced by the following: Gwen Cotter, Wibowo Rusli book was researched and Destination Editor Brana Cover Researcher Naomi written by Simon Richmond, Vladisavljevic Parker Kate Armstrong, Stuart Senior Product Editors Thanks to Ronan Butler, Peter Dragicevich, Trent Elizabeth Jones, Kathryn Abayawickrema, Imogen Holden, Anna Kaminski, Vesna Rowan Bannister, Bechlet, Maric, Kate Morgan, Isabella Hannah Cartmel, Fergal Noble, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Regional Senior Cartographer Anthony Phelan Condon, Gwen Cotter, Shona Raub, Andrea Schulte-Peevers Gray, Ian Gretton, Karen and Greg Ward. The previous Product Editors Fergus O’Shea, Claire Rourke Henderson, Sandie edition was written by Korina Kestell, Amy Lynch, Catherine Book Designers Mazzy Miller, Alexis Averbuck, Anna Naghten, Genna Patterson, Prinsep, Jessica Rose Kaminski, Craig McLachan, Martine Power, Gary Rafferty, Zora O’Neill, Leonid Ragozin, Assisting Editors Katie Kirsten Rawlings, Shane Andrea Schulte-Peevers, O’Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos Scanlan, Vicky Smith ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 612

Index

A Alopronia 256 Archaeological Museum Archaeologi- accessible travel 590 alphabet 606 (Gialos) 376 cal Museum 285, 288-9, , accommodation 22, 590-2, Ammoudi 248 Archaeological Museum 25 318 (Ios) 235-6 Marathon Archaeological see also individual Amorgos 228-34, 228, 25 Archaeological Museum Museum 148 locations Analipsi 399 Acropolis (Athens) 14, (Kastellorizo Village) Museum of Ancient Anafi 254-5 373 Eleutherna 19, 306 78-81, 84-5, 80, 14,78, Anavatos 447 82-3, 84 Archaeological Museum Museum of Prehistoric Ancient Agora (Athens) (Kos Town) 388 activities 26-9, 57-60, see Thera 240-1 88-90, 90, 88 also individual locations Archaeological Museum National Archaeological Ancient Delos 202-3, 203, (Kea) 279 Adamas 263-4 Museum 96-9 198 Archaeological Museum Aegean Islands, see North- Piraeus Archaeological 24, 568-71 (Kissamos) 321 eastern Aegean Islands Museum 139 Andissa 459 Archaeological Museum Aegiali 232-3 Sitia Archaeological Andros 175-9, 177 (Lavrio) 143 Museum 334-5 Aegina 154-8, 155 Angistri 158-9 Archaeological Museum Syros Archaeological Aegina Town 156-7 (Mandraki) 382 animal welfare 491 Museum 185 Agapi (Tinos) 182 Archaeological Museum Ano Meria 258, 262 Tinos Archaeological 416 (Melos) 265 Museum 181 Anogi 543 312 Archaeological Museum archaeological sites, see Anogia 308-9 Agia Kyriaki 371 (Mykonos) 191 also archaeological Antia 486 Agia Marina 371, 406-7 Archaeological Museum museums, Roman sites, Agia Pelagia 553 Antikythira 550 of Apiranthos (Naxos) & Agia Theodoti 236 Antiparos 210-12, 204 Archaeological Museum Acropolis (Athens) 14, of Eretria (Evia) 483 78-81, 84-5, 80, 14,78, 468 Antipaxi 525, 524 551 Archaeological Museum 82-3 Acropolis of Agios 223, 256 Andreas 272 Apikia 179 of (Evia) 486 Agios Kirykos 423-5 Acropolis of Lindos 356 Apiranthos 222 Archaeological Museum 531-2 (Naxos) 214 Acropolis of Rhodes 348 Apokrousi 277 Agios Nikolaos 254, 328-31, Archaeological Museum Aegiali 233 547, Apollo Coast 143-7, 146-7 330 (Paros) 205 Agia Triada 298 Agios Nikolaou 178 Apollonas 220 Archaeological Museum Ancient Agora, Athens Apollonia 270-1 Agios Pavlos 312 (Poros) 161 88-90, 90, 88 archaeological museums, 461 Archaeological Museum Ancient Agora (Kos) 388 see also archaeological (Pera Gialos) 396 Agreco Farm 305-6 Ancient Akrotiri 251 sites Archaeological Museum Aidonia 179 Ancient City Wall 18, 84 (Pothia) 401 Ainos National Park 536 (Mandraki) 383 Andros Archaeological Archaeological Museum air travel 38, 597-9 Ancient Delos 201-3, Museum 178 (Rethymno) 301 Akrotiri 251 203, 198 Archaeological Collection Archaeological Museum 560 of Serifos 275 (Rhodes Town) 345 Ancient 150 Aligaria 225 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Ancient Eleutherna 306 Alinda 409-10 (Agia Marina) 406 (Skyros) 504 Ancient Eretria 483 225 Archaeological Museum Archaeological Museum Ancient 359 Alonnisos 497-502, 498 (Corfu) 18, 513 (Sifnos) 271 Ancient Kamiros 359 Archaeological Museum Collection Ancient 333-4 (Delos) 203 (Amorgos) 231 Ancient Thira 250 Archaeological Museum Hania Archaeological Map Pages 000 Archaeological Site of (Fry) 370 Museum 314-15 Alyki 478 Photo Pages 000 Asklepieion 392 613 Byzantine Paleohora 154 Museum Alex Mylona 95 B Livadi Geranou Beach Casa Romana 19 Museum of Contempo- Balos 322 415 Casa Romana (Kos rary Art (Andros) 178 bargaining 23 Marathon 149 Town) 389 Museum of Contempo- basketball 129 Marmari 399 rary Art (Rethymno) Eretria 483 596 Merihas 275 301 Evia 486 Batsi 176-7 Milos 267

Evpalinos Tunnel 437 Museum of Cycladic Mykonos 196-7 INDEX Art 105 beaches 24 Gortyna 298 Myrtos Beach 540 Museum of Greek Agia Marina (Aegina) 157 Hadrian’s Library 101 Children’s Art 91 Agia Marina (Kasos) 371 Navagio beach 544,

A-B  36 ,7 Heraion 438 Museum of Greek Folk Agia Marina (Lesvos) Homer’s Tomb 235 Art 95-6 406-7 Naxos 214, 220 Horio 363 Museum of Islamic Agia Marina (Symi) 378 Neorion Beach 162 Karthaia 280 Art 101 Agios Georgios Beach nudist 187, 197, 211, 228 Kastro 271 National Musuem of 367 Panormo 307 Lappa 305 Contemporary Art 77 Agios Nikolaos 328, Paros 210 230 Onassis Cultural Centre 367, 378 Poros 162 Necropolis (Argyroupoli) 584 Alonnisos 500, 501 Pera Gialos 398 305 TAF 100 Amorgos 233 Petani Beach 537 Palace of Knossos 12, Zoumboulakis Gallery Anafi 254 Petra Beach 415 292-6, 581, 293, 12, 100 Andros 179 Plaka Beach 381 294-5 Asfodilitis 234 Beach Platys Gialos Beach 418 Palace of Malia 298 541 355 Pondamos Beach 363 Paleohora 158 Astris 476 Beach 366 Preveli beach 17, 312, 17 Astypalea 395-9 Paleokastro 383 Apollo Coast 144 Psili Ammos Beach 415 Palamari 507 Astypalea 396 Askeli Beach 162 Rhodes 355, 356, 357 Phaestos 298 Athens 14, 47, 64, 68-139, Avlaki 371 Russian Bay 162 , , , , Poliohni 469 69 74-5 86 92-3 Chios 450 Santorini 251 102-3, 116-17, 122, Ramnous 148-9 Corfu 521-2 Schinousa 225 14, 55 Skarkos 235 Cyclades 188, 208 Serifos 273-4 Trypiti 265 accommodation 68, Eftalou Beach 456 112-15 Shipwreck Beach 547, Western Excavation Site Eristos Beach 381 activities 106 7, 36 (Kos) 388 Folegandros 260 climate 68 Sifnos 271 Zakros Palace 336 Fourni Islands 43 drinking & nightlife Sikinos 256 architecture 581-4 Ftenagia Beach 363 124-9 Skiathos 490 Argostoli 534-7, 535 Gialiskari Beach 278, entertainment 129-31 Skopelos 496 Argyroupoli 305 280 festivals & events Skyros 505, 506 Arkasa 367 Halikadha Beach 158 109, 28 Steno Beach 399 Arki 416 Hania 316 food 68, 115-24 Tinos 182 Armenistis 427-30 Helatros 371 highlights 69 Vagia Beach 415 Arni 178 Hora Sfakion 323 history 72-6 birdwatching, see also arts 108, 504, 576-80 Hrysi Akti (Golden wildlife itineraries 73, 106-7, 107 art galleries Beach) 210 Kypseli 101 Athens 89 A.antonopoulou.art 100 Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden LGBT+ travellers 127 Kasos 369 Allouche Benias Gallery Beach) 478 neighbourhoods 70-1, National Marine Park of 100 Ios 236 Alomnisos Northern 70-1 Art Space 250 Iraklia 223 Sporades 500 parliament 109 Basil & Elise Goulandris Kambos Beach 414 Samaria Gorge 324 shopping 131-5 Foundation 18, 105 Kanali Beach 162 Skala 459 sights 76-106 at Kania Beach 363 Tilos 380 tourist information 136 138 Pireos St 101 Katsadia Beach 418 Vavrona 149 tours 108-9 Bernier/Eliades 100 Kefalos Bay 394 boat travel 35-8, 598, 599, travel to/from 136-7 Breeder, The 100 Korissia 278 601-2 see also boat CAN 100 travel within 137-9 Kos 387, 389, 394-5 trips Citronne 161 walks 106-7, 107 Koufonisia 226 boat trips Cultural Foundation of ATMs 594 Kythnos 277 Agia Marina 407 Tinos 181 Ahica 146-7 Ladiko Beach 355 Agios Nikolaos 329 Modern austerity 76 Lambi Beach 414 Alonnisos 498-9 Museum 348 Avgonyma 446 Liendou Beach 417 Creta Semi- Municipal Art Gallery Avlemonas 554 Livadi 398 Submarine 62 (Iraklio) 287-8 614 boat trips continued Tower of Sanoudos 214 Church of St Georgios travel seasons 281 Diafani 369 Venetian Fortifications Diasorites 221 cruising 40-4, see Fry 370 (Hania) 316 Church of St John the also boat travel, boat Gialos 376 Venetian Fortress Theologian 275 trips Pera Gialos 397 (Andros) 178 Church of the Santorini 252 Annunciation 181 310 catacombs 265 culture 568-71, 572-5

INDEX INDEX Church of the Rhodes Town 348 , see churches & currency 20 cathedrals Dormition 185 Skiathos 490-1 customs regulations 592 caves Church of the Holy Skiathos Town 488 Cyclades 16, 47, 65, 173- Agio Galas Cave 447 Apostles 89, 111, 110

, ,B-D 280  Skopelos Town 493 174 16 Blue Cave 372 Church of the Nativity accommodation 173 414 268  Cave of Antiparos 211 climate 173 books 561, 568, 573, Church of the Cave of Sykia Olymbi 577-80 Vrefokratousa 461-2 food 173 450 border crossing 598 Church of the Seven highlights 174 Dikteon Cave 339, Bouboulina, Laskarina 563 319 Martyrs 271 history 175, 183, 202 Ideon Cave 309 breweries Evia 484 maps 175 Iraklia 224 Crete 322 Kimisis Tis Theotokou travel seasons 173 Koutouki Cave 149 Santorini 252 163 travel to/from 175, 183 Matala Caves 298 Tinos 181 Moni Agios Nikolaos 170 cycling 60, 599 Melidoni Cave 307 bus travel 599, 600, 604 Moni Dafniou 111, cyclops 570 Naxos 221 576 150, 111 565 Paros 211 Byzantine Athens 72, 111 Palaiopanayia 404 cell phones 595 Panagia 260 D ceramics Panagia Ekatontapyliani dance 580 C Cyclades 208 205 dangers 595, 603, 604 camping 591 Naxos 222 Panagia Paraportiani 191 Delos 201-3, 203, 198 Cape 358 children, travel with Panagia Thalassitra 265 Diafani 368-9 Cape Sounion 147-8 61-3, 91 Skiathos Town 488 Diakofti 415 car travel 600-4 Chios 441-51, 442, 466 Skopelos 496 Dionysos 426 in 26, 28 Chios Town 443-6, 444 St Andrew’s Church 272 disabilities, travellers & fortresses Chrissi Island 338 St George’s Cathedral with 590 Agios Georgios Kastro Christmas 29 185 distilleries 221 537 churches & cathedrals St John the Russian 484 diving & snorkelling 57 of Myrina 463-4 Agios Ioannis Theologos cinema, see films Alonnisos 502 Castle of (Skala) 415 cinemas 129-30 Amorgos 232 (Kos Town) 387 Agios Ioannis Theologos climate 20, 26-9, 340 Crete 301, 317, 323, Drakanos 426 (Lipsi) 417 climbing 328-9, 332 Firkas Fortress 316 Agios Ioannis (Skopelos) Kalymnos 404 Fiskardo 540 Fortezza (Rethymno) 496 Mt Psiloritis 310 300 Folegandros 260 Agios Spyridon Church Mt Parnitha 108 Fortress of Agia Mavra 301 Halki 363 coffee 53 528 Agios Vasilios 404 Ios 236 Cohen, Leonard 167 Kastro (Astypalea) 396 Alonnisos 500 Ithaki 542 consulates 592 Kastro (Kythira) 551 of Agia Sophia Kalymnos 404 convents, see monasteries Knights Castle (Man- 367 Kea 280 & convents draki) 382 Church of Agia Kythnos 277 Corfu 13, 510-23, 511, Knights of St John Ekaterini 94 Mykonos 197 Castle 373 13, 32 Church of Agioi Oia 248 285 Anargyroi 91 Corfu Town 512-19, 514-15 Paros 210 Kythnos 277 Church of Agios courses Paxos 526 Palaio Frourio 512-13 Eleftherios 100-1 art 234 Rethymno 301 Pandeli Castle 406 Church of Agios Nikolaos cooking 52, 301, 308-9 Rhodes 348, 356 Plaka 265 (Emborios) 362 credit cards 594 Samos 437 Castle 393 Church of Agios Nikolaos Crete 47-9, 65, 281-339, Rangavas 94 Santorini 19, 248, 251-2 Serifos 275 282-3, 318-9 Church of Elefterios Serifos 273 Tower of Ayia 220 accommodation 281 (Little ) climate 281 Skiathos 488, 491 111, 110 Skopelos 493 food 12, 281, 12 Church of Panagia Kera Map Pages Vasiliki 530-1 000 333 highlights 282-3 Photo Pages 000 history 284 Dodecanese 18, 48, 65, 340-418, 341, 360-1 615 accommodation 340 , see boat travel Lychnostatis Open Air travel within 321 climate 340 festivals & events 26-9 Museum 299 health 593 food 340 Aegina Fistiki Fest 156 Nautical & Folklore (Hercules) 571 highlights 341 Armata 171 Museum (Pothis) 401 Heraklion Archaeological history 342 Athens & Fonias River 473 Museum 285, 288-9, travel seasons 340 Festival 27 food 51-6, 115-24, see 25, 318

August Moon Festival 27 also individual foods & Hersonisos 299-300 INDEX 587-8 individual locations Clean Monday (Shrove hiking 57, 59-60 Donousa 227-8 glossary 607 Monday) 26 Ainos National Park 536 drama 568 language 606-7 drinks Cultural and Conference Alonnisos 502  D-H Center of Heraklion 19 football 129 coffee 53 Amorgos 232, 234 Domus Festival 216 Fourni Islands 430-2, 53, 407, 468 Anafi 256 15, 27, 575, 422-3 wine 54 15 Andros 179 Epiphany (Blessing of fortresses, see castles & Dryopida 277 Anogi 543 the Waters) 26 fortresses Dryos 217 Fry 369-71 Athens 106, 108 Feast of Agios Vasilios Corfu 520 Durrell, Gerald 522 (St Basil) 26 Durrell, Lawrence 522 Diafani 369 Feast of St John the G DVDs 590 Baptist 27 Evia 483-4, 486 Gaïos 524-5 Folegandros 258 Feast of the Dormi- Galissas 187 tion 29 Hania 316 E galleries, see art galleries Festival of Agios Geor- Hydra 169 Easter 15, 27, 575, 15 gios (St George) 27 gardens, see parks & Ikaria 421 economy 18, 564-7 gardens Independence Day Kalymnos 404 Gavrio 176 ecotourism 26, 28 Kastellorizo Village 372 gay travellers 127, 195, 594 Enagron Ecotourism Miaoulia Festival 165 Kefallonia 536, 539 Village 309 357 Naxos Festivals 27 Kritsa 334 Masticulture Ecotourism Gennisis Tis 29 Panigyria 424 Lesvos 462 Activities 450 Gialos 375-7 Rockwave Festival 27 Naxos 221 Milia 326 Glossa 495-6 Skopelos Rembetika 327-8 Paleohora 327 Festival 27 Athens 127 electricity 593 Paros 206, 210 Skyros Carnival 504 Mykonos 195 Elefsina 150-1 Rethymno 301 films 578 gods & goddesses 570 Elounda 332-3 Samaria Gorge 16, Guns of Navarone, golden jackal 586-7 324, embassies 592 16 The 355 gorges Samos Emborios (Halki) 362-3 Mamma Mia! 15, 492, Agia Irini Gorge 325 Skiathos 491 Emborios (Nisyros) 385 493, 496, 497 Andros 179 Skopelos 496 emergencies 21, 607-8 Psyhi Vathia 563 323 Tilos 381 environmental issues 588 the Greek 355 Kritsa Gorge 334 historical building & sites, Eretria 483 filo 304 Samaria Gorge 16, see also castles & Ermoupoli 185-7, 186 Finikas 187 324, 16 fortresses etiquette 23, 56 Finiki 367 Zakros Gorge 337 Castle of Faraklos 355 Evdilos 425 Fira 240-8, 242 23, 605-9 101 events, see festivals & Fiskardo 539-41 Grexit 567 Castle 358 events Folegandros 258-62, 259 Grikos 415 Lycian tomb 372 Evia 48, 66, 480-7, 481 folklore museums Lazaros Koundouriotis accommodation 480 Folklore Museum Historical Mansion climate 480 H 163-4 (Corfu) 520 Halki (Dodecanese) 362-3 food 480 Monolithos Castle 359 Folklore Museum Halki (Naxos) 220-2 highlights 481 (Menetes) 366 Mikro Horio 378 Halkida 482 travel seasons 480 Folklore Museum Palace of the Grand Hania 313-21, 314-15 travel to/from 482, 484 (Skopelos Town) 493 Master 345-6 accommodation 317 exchange rates 21 Folklore Museum activities 316-17 Exo Gonia 250 (Theorlogos) 478 105 drinking & nightlife 320 Exobourgo 182 Folklore Museum Skiathos 490 (Portianou) 468 entertainment 320 Skyros 507 Historic & Folklore food 317-20 Street of the Knights F Museum (Alinda) 409 shopping 320 346 Falasarna 322 Korgialenio History & sights 313-16 Venetian Harbour 313 Faros 271 Folklore Museum tourist information 320-1 (Argostoli) 535 Fasolou 271 travel to/from 321 616 history 556-7 I Kapsali 552-3 Lakka 526 ancient civilisations Ialysos 359 Karavostamo 430 Lakki 408-9 556-7 Icarus 571 Karavostasis 259-60 Langada (Ios) 234 archaic age 557-8 Ierapetra 337-8 446 Langada (Chios) 446 books 564, 568 Ikaria 421-30, 422-3, 49 Kardiani 182 language 23, 605-9 Byzantine era 559 Independence Day 26, 28 439-41 Lasithi Plateau 339, 318 INDEX INDEX classical age 558 Inousses 447 Karpathos 364-9, 365, 46 Lavrio 143 345 insurance 593 Karya 532 Lefkada 13, 526-32, 559 internet access 593 Karystos 485-7 527, 13

H-M financial crisis 566-7  internet resources 19, 20, Kasos 369-71 Lefkada Town 528-9 geometric age 557 63, 593 Kastellorizo 18, 371-4 Lefkes 208 independence 560 Ionian Islands 48, 66, 508- Kastro (Hora) 471 Lefkos 367-8 Ottoman era 559 54, 509 Kastro (Sifnos) 271 legal matters 593-4 Roman era 558-9 accommodation 508 Kastro (Sikinos) 256 Leros 405-10, 406 WWI 562 climate 508 Katalimatsa 254 lesbian travellers 127, WWII 562-3 food 508 Katapola 230-1 194, 594 hitching 604 highlights 509 Kato Zakros 336-7 Lesvos (Mytilini) 15, 451- holidays 595 history 510 357-8 62, 452-3, 15, 466 Homer 235, 510, 543, 558 travel sesaons 508 kayaking LGBT+ travellers 594 Hora (Astypalea) 396-8 Ios 234-8, 235 Kefallonia 539 Athens 127 Hora (Patmos) 413-14 Ioulida 278-9 Milos 265 Mykonos 195 Hora (Amorgos) 231-2 Iraklia 223-4 Rina 402 lighthouses Hania 314 Hora (Anafi) 254 Iraklio 285-94, 286-7, 318 Skopelos 497 Hora (Andros) 177-9 accommodation 288, Skyros 506 Rethymno 301 Santorini 250 Hora (Folegandros) 258, 292 Kea 278-80, 278 260-2 Limenaria 476 activities 288 Kedros 228 Hora (Iraklia) 223 Limenas 475-6 drinking & nightlife 291 Kefallonia 532-41, 533 Hora (Kimolos) 268 Limni 484-5 entertainment 291 Kefalos Bay 394-5 Hora (Koufonisia) 226 Limnos 463-70, 464 food 290-1 Kimolos 267-8, 263 Hora (Kythira) 551-2 Linaria 506-7 shopping 291 Kini 187 Hora (Kythnos) 276 Lindos 355-7 sights 285-8 Kissamos 321-2 Hora (Mykonos) 190-6, 192 Lionas 220 tourist information 291 kitesurfing Hora (Naxos) 214-19, Lipsi 417-18, 215 travel to/from 292 Naxos 220 418 Hora (Rhodes) 348 Lipsi Village 417-18 travel within 294 Paros 210 Hora (Samothraki) 471-3 literature 577-80, see also Iraklio Wine Country 296-7 Klissidi 254 Hora (Schinousa) 225 island hopping 16, 34-9, books Knossos 12, 292-6, 293, Hora (Serifos) 274-5 see also boat travel, Livada 182 39 12, 294-5 Hora (Tinos) 180-2 boat trips, cruising Livadi (Astypalea) 398 Kochilou 179 Hora Sfakion 323-5 Ithaki 541-4, 533 Livadi (Serifos) 273-4 Kokkari 439 Horio 376 itineraries 30-3, 39, 50, 73, Livadia 378-80 Kolimbithra 182 horse riding 30, 31, 33, 39, 50 live music 130 Kolona 277 Corfu 516 537-8 Korissia 278-9 Hydra 165 loggerhead turtles 548 J Kos 386-95, 388-9 Kefallonia 539 Jewish heritage Loggos 525-6 Kos Town 387-93, 390-1 Paros 208 Loutra (Samothraki) 473 Athens 105 Koufonisia 226-7 Thasos 477 Loutra (Serifos) 277 Rhodes 347 Koundouros 280 horses 507 Loutra 277 Krithoni 409-10 hot springs, see & Loutra Edipsou 485 Kritsa 333-4 springs K Loutraki 495-6 Kalymnos 18, 399-405, Krokos 182 Hristos Rahes 427 (Crete) 325 400, 360 Ktikados 182 Hydra 17, 152, 162-9, Loutro Kamares 269-70 163, 17 Kymi 484 (Small Cyclades) 226 Kamari 394-5 Hydra Town 163-8, 164 Kythira 549-54, 550 Kamariotissa 470-1 Kythnos 275-7, 276 Kambos 425-6 M Kampi 280 Magazia 505-6 Kampos 182 L magazines 590 Laïka 578 Map Pages 000 Kanala 277 Mamma Mia! 15, 492, 493, Lake Dhistos 485 496, 497 Photo Pages 000 Kapetaniana 299 617 Mandraki 382-4, 361 Agiou Ioanni 363 Mt Parnitha 148 National History Manganari 236 Holy of Mt Psiloritis 309, 310 Museum of the Lesvos Manolates 439 Zoödohos Pigi 413 Mt Zeus 212, 221 Petrified Forest 459 maps 594 Kastrianis Monastery museums 24-5, see Museum 296 Marathi 416 280 also archaeological Noesis 61 Marathon 148-9 Monastery of Agios museums, folklore

Georgios 504 museums, maritime Numismatic Museum INDEX Marathounda 378 Monastery of Kimisis museums 105-6 204 Theotokou 448 Acropolis Museum 14, 18, Spetses Museum 171 Margarites 306-7 Monastery of St John the 84, 584, 84 Teriade Museum 454 M-N  markets 132, 134 Theologian 413, 360 Alonnisos museum 498 466 Maries 478 Monastery of St Peter & Athens Pinball Mu- Tomato Industrial maritime museums St Paul 287 seum 77 Museum 251 Aegean Maritime Monastery of the Apoca- Benaki Museum of Greek Traditional House of Museum 191 lypse 413 Culture 104 Chalki 362 Hellenic Maritime Moni Agias Efpraxias 169 Byzantine & Christian Volcanological Museum Museum 139-40 Moni Agiou Gerasimou Museum 104-5 385 Maritime Museum of 537 Byzantine & Post-Byzan- Vorres Museum 149 Crete 316 Moni Agiou Mamas 371 tine Collection 316 War Museum (Athens) Maritime Museum of Moni Agiou Nektariou Chios Mastic Museum 106 Oia 248 158 19, 449-50 War Museum (Lakki) Nautical & Folklore Moni Arhangelou 478 Christos Capralos 408 Museum 400 Moni Arkadiou 306 Museum 158 Wine Museum 251 Nautical Museum of Moni Chrysopigi 271 Corfu Museum of Asian music 578-80 Inousses 447 Art 512 Moni Dafniou 111, Mykonos 188-201, 189, St Valsamidis 403 Ecclesiastical Museum of 150, 111 4, 58 marine life 62, 500, 587-8 Milos 264 Moni Episkopis 256 accommodation 191-4 446 Electric Railways Moni Evangelistrias 490 beaches 196-7 Maroula 277 Museum 139 Moni Faneromenis 528 diving & snorkelling 197 Mastihari 394 Gyzi Megaron 241 Moni Hozoviotissis 233, food 194 Mastihohoria 449-50 Hellenic Children’s 25, 25 Museum 91 LGBT+ travellers 195 Matala 298-9 Moni Kaisarianis 111, Herakleidon Museum nightlife 195-6 May Day 27 110-11 Building B 76-7 shopping 196 measures 590 Moni Profiti Ilia 169 Historical Archives travel to/from 188-9 Mediterranean monk seals Moni Panagias Spilianis Museum of Hydra 164 travel within 190 498, 501, 587 382 Moni Agios Nikolaos 170 Myli 485 Megalo Horio 380-1 Moni Preveli 312 Historical Museum of Mylopotamos 552 Megalohori 250 Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Crete 285 Mylopotas 236 529, 527 Panormiti 377 Industrial Gas Museum Myrina 463-5 Megas Gialos 188 Moni Toplou 335-6 104 Myrthios 311 Melinda 461 Moni Zoödohou Pigis Jewish Museum (Athens) Myrtos 338-9 Menetes 366 161, 256 105 mythology 569-71 Menites 179 Moni Ypsilou 459 Jewish Museum of Mytilini Town 454-6, 455 Merihas 275-6 Tourliani Monastery 196 (Rhodes) 347 Mersini 225 Zoodochos Pigi Monas- Kanellopoulos Museum 94 Mesathouri 179 tery 254 N Lazaros Kouondouriotis Mesta 450-1 money 20, 23, 592, 594 Nagos 446 Historical Mansion 163 Miaoulia Festival 27 monk seals 498, 501, 587 Nanou 378 Megisti Museum 373 Milos 262-7, , Naoussa 208-10 263 198 Melina Merkouri Cultural of Gazi Hassan National Archaeological Mineral Baths of Eftalou Centre 77 Pasha 387 Museum 96-9, 97 456, 466 Milos Mining Museum Mosque of Kioutsouk national parks & reserves Minoan civilisation 230, 264 Hasan 316, 318-19 586 234, 238 Mineralogical Museum motorcycle travel 600-4 Ainos National Park 536 mobile phones 595 143 Moudros 469-70 National Marine Park of Mohlos 334 Museum of Byzantine & mountain-biking 41, see Alonnisos Northern Molos 505-6 Post-Byzantine Art of also cycling Sporades 500 Molyvos () 457-8 Kythira 553 Mt Dirfys 483 Valley of the Butterflies monasteries & convents Museum of Greek Popu- Mt Fanari 222 359 Agios Panteleimon lar Instruments 87 Mt Kynthos 202 Navy Week 27 monastery 381 National Historical Mt Ohi 486 Museum 91 Naxos 212-22, 213, 2, 198 , 32 16 7

, , 64, - , 239 5 47 - 13 5 - 471 - 456 1 240 climbing , , 324, - , 3 94 411 - 6 434 16 358 269 478 257 - 417 see 459 9 273 , 54 , - , 476 - 460 , 188 476 245 241 153 8 470 41 5 254 - 72 - - 153 225 - 587 , 603, 604 603, , 9 152 569 , 238 5 238 - - 235 461 154 255 415 272 72 199 432 484 - 268 595 , 538 459 334 402 466 42 152 Crete 328 Crete Village Lipsi budgeting history to/from transport within 239 travel 152 accommodation climate 152 food highlights tours 154 to/from travel within 154 travel Hadrian’s Arch Arch 87 Hadrian’s 101 Library Hadrian’s 388 Odeion Agora Roman S Sifnos Sifnos Sikinos Sitia 158-9 (Angistri) Skala (Patmos) Skala Eresou Skala Kallonis Skala Kamirou Skala Marion Skala Potamia Skala Prinou Skala Sikameneas Skala Skarkos Rock Skaros Rovies Rovies safety sailing Gorge Samaria Sami Samos Samothraki Michalis San Santorini Sapsila Gulf Islands Saronic Schinousa seaturtles 587 501, 498, seals Serifos Rina Rina climbing, rock sites Roman Roukounas , , 360 , 354 4 55 - - 5 348 - 25 302 507 353 343 , 344 576 10-11 343 8 590 5 595 - , , 354 344 - 3 160 - 8 567 , 7 225 - 59 467 - 7 5 250 353 - 433 348 2 - 217 2 - 436 , 3 - 462 , 349 300 - , 268 62 - 1 188 579 342 - - , 357 553 1 3 345 - 7 266 202 - 461 342 574 254 566 - 485 182 351 268 312 400 142 236 159 448 450 350 352 226 371 346 entertainment entertainment food shopping sights information tourist within travel Delos Delos history to/from travel within travel accommodation activities drinking & nightlife Rupert Brooke Brooke Rupert R rafting 58 rafting religion buildings religious rembetika art Renaissance Rethymno Rhodes 11, Town Rhodes Pothia Pothia Prasies Prassa Preveli Philip Prince Prodromos Psathi Ammos Psili public holidays Pyrgi Pyrgos Pythagorio Rafina Plimmyri Plimmyri poets Poli 595 21, police politics Pollonia Polyhnitos population 19 Pori Poros 160-1 Town Poros Posidonia services postal Potami Potamos 9 15 -9 50 -

20 & , , 191 , 50, 26 21 26 19 198 , 39 - 411 87 , 39 , 309 55 424 , 76 , 6 76 18 20 see - 8 3 9 140 16 33 - - - - , 62 , 206 , 56 204 8 7 , - - 595 , 20 30 595 6 8 42 91 31 8 11 23 - 396 524 485 9 - - 410 568 - - , - 10 182 , , 9 267 - 307 - 6 406 festivals festivals 179 , 91 - 571 15 national parks national 139 30 157 407 364 179 310 3 205 497 280 - 204 456 569 465 484 378 523 73, 61 488 also reserves etiquette etiquette Islands basics Greek resources internet itineraries visitors repeat seasons travel budgeting budgeting events of calendar with travel children, Hill Areopagus Hill Filopappou Garden Maravel National Garden Park Saloon Platanos Platanos Platy Platanistos Platanistos Plaka (Athens) 77, 77, (Athens) Plaka 333 (Crete) Plaka 265-6 (Milos) Plaka Plakias planning philosophy philosophy phone cards photography Pigadia Piraeus Piskopio Pisses Pithara Paxi Paxi 149 Peania Pedi Pefki Gialos Pera Perdika Petra Paros Paros Patitiri Patmos panigyria Panormo Panormos Alexandros Papadiamantis, Parikia & gardens, parks Panagia (Kasos) 371 (Kasos) Panagia 478-9 (Thasos) Panagia Paraportiani Panagia Pandeli , 15 - , 79 - 8 294-5 513 - 5 , 419 501 - 419 383 , - , 12 27 179 11 584 537 211 6 , 000 - 512 7 594 521 - 499 000 , 468 , 420 467 590 517 199 , 495 197 293 382 , 336 377 6 326 11 , 419 - 554 407 368 49 220 571 50 29 307 18 , - 419 280 385 292-6, 292-6, St George 386 248 384-5, 384-5, 65, Islands 49, 420 361 Map Pages Map Pages Pages Photo Palace of St Michael & St Michael & of Palace Palace Palace Achilleion 65, Knossos of Palace Crete 307 Crete 220 Naxos Skopelos Naxos Cyclades 187, 187, Cyclades Mykonos 228 Iraklia climate climate food highlights 419 seasons travel accommodation accommodation P O Paliohora Paliohora Pali Pali Peninsula Paliki Palekastro Palekastro Paleohora Paleokastritsa palaces ouzo, 53, Otzias 130, 580 130, opera Korthiou Ormos Easter Orthodox Olympic Games Olympic Games opening hours Olymbos Olymbos olive Old Alonnisos Old Alonnisos Old Perithia Oedipus Oedipus Oia observatories 309 observatories nudist beaches nudist Northeastern Aegean Aegean Northeastern Nisyros Volcano Nisyros Nisyros Nisyros Nikea Nikea Nimborios newspapers newspapers

N-S

INDEX 618 619 Skiathos 487-92, 489 syrmata 265 tours 604 Athens 106-7, 107 Skiathos Town 480, 488- Syros 183-8, 184 train travel 598, 604 Corfu 515, 514-5 90, 46 rail passes 604 water sports 57-9 Skopelos 15, 492-7, 493, 15 travel to/from Greek Cyclades 210 Skopelos Town 492-5 T Islands 21, 597-604 tap water 593 Hydra 164 Skyrian horses 507 travel within Greek Islands Tarabados 182 Kambos Beach 415 21, 597-604 INDEX Skyros 502-7, 503 Mykonos 197 taxes 595 Triopetra 312 Skyros Town 503-5 Naxos 216 taxis 604 Triovasalos 265-6 Small Cyclades 222-8, 223 Telendos Islet 404-5 Thodes 358

Trypiti 265-6  S-Z smoking 595 Skopelos Town 493 telephone services 595-6 Tsigouri 225 snorkelling, see diving & Vasiliki 530 temples & sanctuaries, , travel to/from 421 snorkelling see also archaeological weather 20, 26-9, 340 turtles 548 568 sites, Roman sites weights 590 Sougia 325-6 of white-water rafting 58 spas & springs 149 V wildflowers 585-6 Athens 106 Sanctuary of the Great vacations 595 wildlife 585-8 Kythnos 277 Gods 472, 466 Vaï 336 wife 593 Sanctuary of the Loutra Edipsou 485 Valley of the Butterflies windmills 191, 231, 318 Kabeiroi 469 Mineral Baths of Eftalou 359 windsurfing, see 456, 466 of Aphaia 157-8 188 water sports Rhodes 355 Temple of Aphrodite 554 Vasiliki 530-1 wine 54 Spathi 280 Temple of Apollo Vasilikos Peninsula 547 Wine & Culture Festival 29 (Aegina) 156 Spetses 169-72, 170 Vathy (Ithaki) 542-3 wineries Temple of Apollo (Naxos) 309-10 Vathy (Samos) 433-6, Athens 109 214 436 Spinalonga island 329 Vathys 402 Evia 18, 488 Temple of Apollo Sporades 48, 66, 480- (Pythios) 280 Vathy (Sifnos) 271 Hania 316 507, 481 Temple of 280 vegan travellers 19 Iraklio 296-7 accommodation 480 Temple of Olympian Zeus vegetarian travellers 54 Kellafonia 534 climate 480 77, 78 Island 513 Paros 208 food 480 Temple of 147 visas 596 Samos 434 highlights 481 Temple of Poseidon 161 Volax 182 Sikinos 257 travel seasons 480 The Temple of Apollo 156 volcanoes 557 Skyros 507 sports 106, 129 Thasos 474-9, 475 Nisyros 11, 384-5, 11 women travellers 596 St John the Divine 414 Thasos (Limenas) 475-6 Santorini 238 work 596 statues & monuments theatre 130-1 446-7 Ancient Lion of Kea 279 theme parks volunteering 431, 596 Hadrian’s Arch 87 X Dinosauria Park 288 Skyros 507 Xirokambos 409 Holocaust Memorial 105 Theologos 478 Sporades 491 XLSIOR 29 Lykavittos Hill 105 thermal baths, see spas & Vourkari 280 Stavros 543-4 springs Vourkoti 178 Steni 483-4 571 Vourliotes 439 Y Stenies 179 Thira 250 250 yachting, see boat trips Strapouries 179 Tholaria 233-4 Vravona 149 surfing 58 Tilos 378-81, 379 Vromolithos 408 Z Symi 374-8, 375, 360 tipping 23 446 Zakros 336-7 synagogues time 596 Zakynthos 544-9, 545, 36 Beth Shalom 105 Tinos 179-83, 180 Zakynthos Town 545-6 Ets Hayim 105 W toilets 596 walking tours Zaros 297 Kahal Shalom tourist information 596 Acropolis 82-3, 82-3 Synagogue 347 tourist police 21, 595 620

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist /Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry//Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 621 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kevin Raub Crete Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel and has written more than 95 Lonely Planet guides, fo- cused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Find him at www.kevinraub.net or follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad).

Andrea Schulte-Peevers Crete Born and raised in and educated in London and at UCLA, An- drea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is espe- cially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin.

Greg Ward Rhodes Since his youthful adventures on the hippy trail to India, and living in northern Spain, Greg has written guides to destinations all over the world. As well as covering the USA from the Southwest to Hawaii, he has ranged on recent as- signments from Corsica to the Cotswolds, and Dallas to . Visit his website, www.gregward.info, to see his favourite photos and memories. Trent Holden Crete A Geelong-based writer, located just outside , Trent has worked for Lonely Planet since 2005. He’s covered 30-plus guidebooks across , Africa and . With a penchant for megacities, Trent’s in his element when assigned to cover a nation’s capital – the more chaotic the better – to unearth cool bars, art, street food and underground subculture. On the flipside he also writes books to idyllic tropical islands across Asia, in between going on safari to national parks in Africa and the subcontinent. When not travelling, Trent works as a freelance editor, reviewer and spends all his money catching live gigs. You can catch him on Twitter @hombreholden.

Anna Kaminski Cyclades Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative Ameri- can Studies, a background in the history, culture and literature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of America. Her restless wander- ings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok and her flirtation with crim- inal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles.

Vesna Maric Around Athens, Saronic Gulf Islands Vesna has been a Lonely Planet author for nearly two decades, covering places as far and wide as Bolivia, Algeria, , Cyprus, Barcelona, London and Croatia, among others. Her latest work has been updating Florida, Greece and North .

Kate Morgan Crete Having worked for Lonely Planet for over a decade now, Kate has been fortunate enough to cover plenty of ground working as a travel writer on desti- nations such as Shanghai, Japan, India, , Zimbabwe, the Philippines and Phuket. She has done stints living in London, and Osaka but these days is based in one of her favourite regions in the world – Victoria, Australia. In between travelling the world and writing about it, Kate enjoys spending time at home working as a freelance editor.

Isabella Noble Evia & Sporades English-Australian on paper but Spanish at heart, Isabella has been wandering the globe since her first round-the-world trip as a one-year-old. Having grown up in a whitewashed Andalucian village, she is a Spain specialist travel journalist, but also writes extensively about India, Thailand, the UK and beyond for Lonely Planet, the Daily Telegraph and others. Isabella has co-written Lonely Planet guides to Spain and Andalucía, and is a Daily Telegraph Spain expert. She has also contributed to Lonely Planet India, South India, Thailand, Thailand’s Islands & Beaches, Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Great Britain, and authored Pocket Phuket. Find Isa- bella on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble).

Leonid Ragozin Northeastern Aegean Islands Leonid studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to jour- nalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new home in Rīga. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Athens Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guide- books he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, Greece, India, Indonesia, , Poland, Japan, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa, South Korea and Turkey and the USA. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram (simonrichmond) to see some of his photos and sketches. Simon also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Surival Guide chapters.

Kate Armstrong Dodecanese Kate Armstrong has spent much of her adult life travelling and living around the world. A full-time freelance travel journalist, she has contribut- ed to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides and trade publications and is regularly published in Australian and worldwide publications. She is the author of several books and children’s educational titles.

Stuart Butler Ionian Islands Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely Planet he lives on the beautiful beaches of southwest with his wife and two young children.

Peter Dragicevich Cyclades After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publish- ing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Eu- rope. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his cur- rent nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 11th edition – March 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 574 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or . Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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