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Candia and the Venetian Oltremare: Identity and Visual Culture in the Early Modern Eastern Mediterranean

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Candia and the Venetian Oltremare: Identity and Visual Culture in the Early Modern Eastern Mediterranean CANDIA AND THE VENETIAN OLTREMARE: IDENTITY AND VISUAL CULTURE IN THE EARLY MODERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN A thesis submitted to The University of Manchester for the degree of PhD in the Faculty of the Humanities 2011 Eva Stamoulou School of Arts, Histories and Cultures Contents Illustrations 4 Abstract 13 Declaration and Copyright Statement 14 Note on Measures, Currencies and Dates 15 Abbreviations and Note on Translations 16 Acknowledgments 17 Introduction 18 Chapter 1.Identity in Sixteenth-century Crete 27 1. Introduction 28 2. Localised or Regional Identity and Language 31 3. Religious and Class Identity: Noble Christians 41 4. The Confined Space: The Jewish Ghetto in Candia and Inter-communal Relations 51 Chapter 2.Candia: Narrative Testimonies on the City and the Island 61 1. Introduction 62 2. Advice on Managing a Household in Candia 64 3. Canzone Rustica: ‗Beautiful Venice‘ and ‗Filthy Crete‘ 77 4. Descriptions and Histories of Crete: Francesco Barozzi, Antonio Calergi and Onorio Belli 85 Chapter 3.Creating Appearances: Fabrics, Clothes and Embroideries 111 1. Introduction 112 2. Notarial Records and Clothes 113 3. The Trade of Fabrics and Clothes in Crete 124 4. Making Clothes: Venetian and Candiote Sartori (Tailors) 131 5. The Art of Embroidery in Crete 136 2 Chapter 4. Managing Appearances: Sumptuary Legislation and the Perception of Cretans in the Sixteenth Century 152 1. Introduction 153 2. Una ‗mascherata fatta in dispreggio del Clarissimo Rettor Faliero‘/ A Masquerade to demerit (ridicule) the Rector Faliero 155 3. Restrictions on Clothing: Sumptuary Legislation in Crete and Venice 160 4. Regulation in Bandi 166 5. Beards: A Sign of the Orthodox Faith? 170 6. The Greeks in the World of Costume Books 176 7. Sfachia/Sfakia 182 Chapter 5. Islands: Insularity and Connectedness 194 1. Introduction 195 2. The Experience of Sea Travel 199 3. The Early Modern Map Revolution 203 4. Insularity and Island-books, Isolarii 212 5. A Cretan Cartographer: ‗Georgio Sideri dicto Calapoda cretensis‘ 226 6. When Islands Speak: Candia and Scio‘s Last Wills 231 Conclusion 241 Figures 246 Appendices 304 Appendix A: Letter of Advice in the Archivio Proprio Giacomo Contarini 305 Appendix B: Candia Canzone Rustica 308 Appendix C: Georgio Sideri in Bandi 322 Appendix D: Islands‘ Last Wills 323 Bibliography 331 Final word count: 103,131 words. 3 Illustrations 1. Jacopo Sansovino, Detail of the Façade of the Loggetta, Campanile of the Basilica, c. 1537-45. Piazzetta San Marco, Venice. My photograph. 2. Jacopo Sansovino, Relief of Venice as Justice, Façade of the Loggetta of the Campanile, c. 1537-45. Piazzetta San Marco, Venice. My photograph. 3. Jacopo Sansovino, Relief of Venus, Façade of the Loggetta of the Campanile, c. 1537-4. Piazzetta San Marco, Venice. My photograph. 4. Jacopo Sansovino, Relief of Jupiter, Façade of the Loggetta of the Campanile, c. 1537-41. Piazzetta San Marco, Venice. My photograph. 5. Georgio Sideri, La Isola di Candia, 1562. Museo Civico Correr, Venice, Portolano 9. Parchment, 142 x 63 cm. Reproduced in ΢ηέθαλνο Δ. Καθιακάλεο (Kaklamanis), Candia/Creta/Κξήηε: Ο Χώξνο θαη ν Χξόλνο, 16νο- 18νο Αηώλαο. (Αζήλα: Μνξθσηηθό ‗Ηδξπκα Δζληθήο Σξαπέδεο, 2005), 49. 6. Marco Boschini, Citta di Candia, Il Regno tutto di Candia, Delineato à Parte et Intagliato da Marco Boschini Venetiano...(Venetia: s.l., 1651). Engraving, 220 x 390 mm. Photograph by permission of the British Library, London. Maps C. 24. f. 3. 7. Consultationi de Medici, nella Grave malatia del Gran Sultano, e rimedij proprij per guarirlo (M. Mitelli,1656). Engraving. Photograph by permission of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. 8. Drawing of the two sides of a coin from Ancient Knossos, Crete. Reproduced in ΢ηέθαλνο Καθιακάλεο (Kaklamanis), ed. Francesco Barozzi: Descrittione Dell' Isola Di Creta (Πεξηγξαθή ηεο Κξήηεο) 1577/8, Βελεηηθέο Πεγέο ηεο Κξεηηθήο Ηζηνξίαο-3. (Ζξάθιεην: Βηθειαία Γεκνηηθή Βηβιηνζήθε, 2004), 217. 9. George Clontzas, Matteo Calergi in his deathbed, Codex Marc.Graec.Cod. VII. 22 (=1466). Biblioteca Nationale Marciana, Venice, f. 135v. Manuscript, ink on paper, 110 x 113 mm. Published in Αζαλάζηνο Παιηνύξαο (Paliouras) Ο Εσγξάθνο Γεώξγηνο Κιόληδαο (1540 ci.-1680) θαη αη Μηθξνγξαθίαη ηνπ Κώδηθνο Απηνύ, (Αζήλα: Δθδόζεηο Γξεγόξε, 1977), Plate 285. 10. The Calergi Family Crest in situ at the Venice Municipal Casino, Venice. My photograph. 11. George Clontzas, The Noble Matheos Calergi leads an Army of Cretan Volunteers, Codex Marc.Graec. Cod. VII. 22 (=1466). Biblioteca Nationale 4 Marciana, Venice, f. 135r. Manuscript, ink on paper, 125 x 115 mm. Published in Αζαλάζηνο Παιηνύξαο (Paliouras) Ο Εσγξάθνο Γεώξγηνο Κιόληδαο (1540 ci.-1680) θαη αη Μηθξνγξαθίαη ηνπ Κώδηθνο Απηνύ, (Αζήλα: Δθδόζεηο Γξεγόξε, 1977), Plate 284. 12. Cretan man in traditional costume, beginning of twentieth century. Collection of Tzani Ioanni. Photograph by permission of the Municipality of Heraklion, Crete. (http://history.herakleion.gr) 13. Domenikos Theotokopoulos (El Greco), Vincenzo Anastagi, 1571-6. Oil on canvas, 188 x 126.7 cm. Reproduced by permission of The Frick Collection, New York. 14. Caravaggio, Portrait of Alof de Wignacourt with his Page, 1607-8. Oil on canvas, 195 x 134 cm. Reproduced by permission of the Museè du Louvre, Paris. 15. Cesare Vecellio, Soldato A’ Piedi, Habiti Antichi et Moderni...(Venezia: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8º, 20 cm. Reproduced in Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni. The Clothing of the Renaissance World, ed. Margaret F. Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones (London: Thames and Hudson, 2008), 214. 16. Cesare Vecellio, Soldato Disarmato, Habiti Antichi et Moderni…(Venezia: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8º, 20 cm. Reproduced in Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni. The Clothing of the Renaissance World, ed. Margaret F. Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones (London: Thames and Hudson, 2008), 216. 17. Jacopo Robusti Tintoretto, Portrait of Sebastiano Venier with a Page, c. 1580. Oil on canvas, 195 x 130 cm. Private Collection. 18. Cesare Vecellio, Bravo Venetiano, Habiti Antichi et Moderni... (Venezia: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8º, 20 cm. Reproduced in Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni. The Clothing of the Renaissance World, ed. Margaret F. Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones (London: Thames and Hudson, 2008), 217. 19. Cesario Vecellio, Soldato, Ò Scappoli, Habiti Antichi et Moderni…(Venezia: Damian Zenaro, 1590). Woodcut, 8º, 20 cm. Reproduced in Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti Antichi et Moderni. The Clothing of the Renaissance World, ed. 5 Margaret F. Rosenthal and Ann Rosalind Jones (London: Thames and Hudson, 2008), 223. 20. Fragment of Cretan embroidery, Seventeenth century. The Benaki Museum, Athens. Reproduced in Άγγεινο Γειεβνξηάο (Delivorias), Οδεγόο ηνπ Μνπζείνπ Μπελάθε (Αζήλα: Μνπζείν Μπελάθε, 2000), 85. 21. A Romance. Pillowcase, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Reproduced from Burlington Fine Arts Club Catalogue of a Collection of Old Embroidery (London, 1914) in E.K. Fragaki, Από ηελ Κεληεηηθή ζηελ Κξήηε (Αζήλα: n.p., 1979), 45. 22. Traditional Cretan Costume, twentieth century (?). Collection of Elefteria Ranoutsou. Photograph by permission of the Municipality of Heraklion, Crete. (http://history.herakleion.gr) 23. Detail of musician on Cretan skirt border, eighteenth century. Silk on cotton. Donated by Prof. R. M. Dawkins to the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. T.312-1950. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum. 24. Anonymous, Cretan Nobles (‘Archontoromei’) of the Countryside, sixteenth century. Church of St George, Voila Sitias, Crete. Fresco. Photograph taken by Giuseppe Gerola (1900-2) and reproduced in Ηζηνξία ηνπ Διιεληθνύ Έζλνπο, vol. 9 (Δθδνηηθή Αζελώλ: Αζήλα, 1974), 207. 25. Maria Papadopoula, Autographed and dated embroidered skirt, 1757, Crete. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Collected by Thomas Sandwith, British Consul-General in Crete (1870-85) and donated by his granddaughter Miss P. Boys-Smith. T. 97-1967. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 26. Cretan Dress, 1700‘s. Polychrome silk embroidery on linen and cotton. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 488-1903. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 27. Detail of embroidered sleeve of Cretan skirt. Victoria and Albert Museum, Sandwith Collection 2064-(18)76. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum. 28. Detail of sleeves of Cretan skirt (See also Fig. 27-VVV). Victoria and Albert Museum, Sandwith Collection 2064-(18)76. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum. 6 29. Cretan dress on mannequin, Late Seventeenth - Early Eighteenth Century. The Benaki Museum, Athens. Photograph by permission of the Benaki Museum. 30. Claude Aubriet, Candiotes, Joseph Pitton de Tournefort, Relation d’un Voyage du Levant fait par ordre du Roy (Paris: Imprimerie Royale, 1717). Engraving, 8º, 10 x 15.8 cm. Not paginated. Reproduced in Ζ Διιεληθή Δλδπκαζία 'Δληππεο Πεγέο 16νπ - 20 Αηώλα από ηε ΢πιινγή Η. Γ. Κνηιaινύ. (Αζήλα: Μνπζείν Μπελάθε, 2006), 345-6. 31. Cretan skirt border, 1700s. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. T. 706-1950. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum. 32. Detail of embroidered skirt border featuring a mermaid (Fig. 26). Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 488-1903. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum. 33. Detail of fragment of a Cretan skirt border featuring figures holding swords. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 2055-(18)76. D.1. Photograph by permission of the Victoria and Albert Museum. 34. Two-tailed mermaid on carved stone. Benaki Museum, Athens. 2906. Reproduced in S.B. Krody, Embroidery of the Greek Islands and Epirus Region: Harpies, Mermaids and Tulips (London, Scala: 2006), 15. 35. Skirt border from Crete, c. 1570. Reproduced in 36. Glazed small bowl with a representation of a double-headed eagle, late thirteenth or fourteenth century. Glazed ceramic, height 7cm, diameter 12cm, diameter of base 4.8cm. The Benaki Museum, Athens. Reproduced in Cormack, Robin, and Maria Vassilaki, eds. Byzantium, 330-1453. (London: Royal Academy of Arts, 2008), 149. 37. Pontifical pendant in the shape of a double-headed eagle, end of seventeenth century.
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