A - G L O S S A RY - of

S I L K - T E RM S

I s s u e d by The A m erican Silk o u r n l C o m an 1 'n i o n J a p y , 9 S uar e Wes t N e w Y o rk Ci q , , ty

G LO S SA RY of S ILK TE RMS

E PRE S EN T a carefully com and piled , we believe, very complete an d reliable Glas s m fy of the m an y disti nctive term s o i n th e empl yed silk trade, to a t o date, s applied weaves, fi u an d styles, g re color effects, n m e t c also trade a es, , with o n an d n co n brief descripti derivatio of same, for.

‘ v e n i e n t us e nu u n an d co by ma fact rers, ha dlers n n d u o f o n a . s mers silk goods, f reig domestic T o o o b n o u his m dest b klet , which has ee br ght to n n u o f n l x the otice of a mber ack ow edged e perts, for

u and m an d o n o u o n f ll free criticis , revisi , bef re p blicati , n n t o u n n i n ca ot fail prove of val e for ha dy refere ce _

ll th e o o n o u an d in an the mi , c mmissi h se wholesale d n n retail silk departme ts everywhere . I thi s belief we se n d it forth upon its mission to t h e silk manufacturers and trade . — n o f Ajo ur Ope w rk e fect . ' ' — A ézs Mes s a /zn e Tafle m s Trade n ame for a high

‘ ' ' n n Th e n A grade taffetas with messali e fi ish . ame bis n n fi n of n o special or defi ite sig i ca ce . — A ntique A pplied to certain fabrics i n i m itation l uf n u n n n of the si k st fs of former ce t ries i sta ce, sati n u m o ire n u a tiq es, a tiq es, etc . — A 7m 0 relad Trade name for a double - warp taffe o f n and r tas great stre gth wea .

' ’ — A r m m e A twilled weave showi ng a ribbed s ur

face . ’ — A rm u re - la zne A heavy ribbed or corded silk,

- fill wool e d . —A a n A as n . Ay soft J pa ese twill . trade ame ’ — B ag d ad Trade n ame for an Orien tal novelty of

‘ recen t origi n B a rre—S i n n triped laterally, same directio as the

‘ n S n n filli g, similar to travers . howi g tra sverse bars,

as the barred owl . — B ay a d ere Showi ng straight or und ulatin g cross — stripes u sually i n altern ated an d brilliant colors n and z N with startli g bi arre effect . ame derived from B ayadere 'o r B ajadere dancin g girls of the under i n n a t world I di , dedicated from their birth o the life the striped garme nt bein g supplemen ted with filmy l u n u n scarf or shaw , j eweled tro sers, ba gles, gold seq i s,

n e tc . a klets, ’ B a a d ere Mo i re—S it t r d y ame as above, w h wa e e ef c a d fe t dde . [ 4 ] — B en a line A in r und- d d v r o r g pla , o cor e wea e, mo e o f n Ma less heavy, the popli family . y be of silk warp and o r n n w wool cotto filli g or of all silk, hich latter B n n S N would be called e gali e de oie . ame derived o B n l n u d u n fr m e ga , I dia, famo s for its pro ctio of

u i and ul uf and o n . vario s r ch pec iar st fs of silk, wool c tto B o w ie—F n u A w s ur re ch for b ckled . fabric ith

n - o f- face showi g lock hair effect .

’ z o —H n B ou ll uue avi g shirred or gathered effect . ‘ — B o urezze Sho wi n g rough threads appearin g in

n o r n . li es, straight broke B rilli a nt— n n n t u tr I dicati g a fi ish of grea l s e . l t n May be app ied o a y fabric . B r oca de—F S n broca de n n rom the pa ish , mea i g o h th e n broeu re t brocaded or br c é from Lati , o prick ,

A - o to figure . heavy weight silk with br ché 'raised) u o w o i n n n fig res of fl ers, f liage or other some i sta ces and n n A n with gold silver threads i terwove . y fabric n in u f wove j acq ard e fect . B roca te lle—A o o f t n u s rt damask, he pri cipal fig res u having a raised s rface . — B ree/ze A l - fi u oom embroidered fabric, with g res w i W n n . u s iveled ove with a fig re . E rode—E o mbr idered .

‘ ‘ — ‘ B r us uofi Tafie zus Trade n ame for a pure dye n r u n black taffetas of rece t p od ctio . — ' B ulldog Tafe m s A registered modern trade n an n o n f a ame for exceedi gly str g ta fet s, claimed to be

n - no tearable . [ 5] ’ — B u r lzuguum Trade n ame for a coarse fabric o f O n h S n rie tal c aracter . acki g

B u r m aufl A trade n ame for a ro ugh weave of the o un o h mesp rder . — B ur m uu Registered trade n ame for a pec uliar weave o f Orien tal character of un eve n surface and ex t r m l e e y soft fi n ish . ’ Cuekem zr e— F en Cas h m e r e ’ o r K i 'r ch for ashm r). A style sho wi ng palms an d other Persian an d I n dian i n n t n n O o . A n t o patter s dark , rich rie al c lori gs ki P n N C n ersia effects . ame derived from ashmere, I dia, n o ted for Cash m ere shawls an d rich an d beautiful o n fabrics made fr m hair of the ative goat .

' a s z s i — T n A n u C gfé u lk rade ame . exq isitely soft

n - n d i n m u weave, with patter , warp pri te , arvelo s imita t o n o u n t he o n th e k' i of the ter ski of calf, sh wi g all mar

n i n o o an d n — n n n i gs c l r shadi gs brow , faw , shadi g A r e n t u n u e c . to p re white . prod ctio ' Ca rm ela—A n wn lso k o as repp, related to f an d n n l i n th e o ta fetas weaves, appeari g mai y f rm of

i n c m n o n o e n . stripes, o bi ati with s me oth r patter s

' Ca u zZZe—A o m te d w n j effect, ith stripes broke at n n u n o i tervals by k ots or small sq ares, resembli g s me i i n c n o r o what the j o n ts a e bamb o .

a r —A u r C rea u sq a e check . — - f F C/zum e leo u Th ree to ned glacé e fect . rom

o n z - o n n n n chamele , a li ard like reptile of c sta tly cha gi g

co lor . — C/zuug e aul A n effect produced by weavi ng t wo i n n co lo rs to gether a plai fabric . [ 6 ] ' — — Cuzfiou Th e merest rag of silk tissue the most ' ‘ n Fr e/zz e filmy and softest of silk material wove . om jj

F n . 're ch), a rag 'flimsy cloth ’ ’ — ' C/zzjjo ue tee Th e flim s ie s t an d most bodiless of f n all the chi fo family . ' ’ /zz ou Ta e m s —A h n n C jj fi exceedi gly thi , soft , light w Th e l o r eight taffeta . same will app y to all the f weaves with the chif on prefix . ' f — Ck zjjo u Velo urs Th e lightest and softest v elour s n n o n n o n u k ow , c mbi i g s mewhat the at re of both n weaves amed . ’ uene—A r - n f B u C . wa p pri ted e fect l rred, soft , n in disti ct . ' Co uzl/e—F u q l ted or scalloped, like a shell , from which the term is derived . re e—F n r A u o r C p re ch fo crape . p ckered n l cri k ed fabric . ’ — Cr ep e a e Chi ne A n exquisite ly so ft an d drapy f n ur o r o e n . form cr pe, plai , fig ed pri ted ‘ — Cr e lu A - é e . p small, cr pe like effect ' ' Cre e les s e—A n re n p plai fabric with c py ha d, extremely diaphan ou s an d very like the lightest o n m usseli e . ' — Cro zs e A velvet weave in which the threads o o o n l n . cr ss each ther at the back , f rmi g a ki d of twil ' ’ F ero zs e F n fo r rom , re ch crossed .

' Cr s ta ls er s tu/lzues e ta —C u u y , y , orded, s ally wool b n to B n n filled fa rics, somewhat aki e gali es . Da m as k— N o D u amed fr m the city of amasc s, i n fo r n u famed the middle ages its wo derf l silk fabrics . [ 7] A fabric Wi th fiat figures formed by con trast b etween d n u an e . n ur m warp filli g s rfaces, i . , sati fig es 'for ed by the filli ng) o n satin o r twill or taffetas ground

'formed by the warp). Dum us s e—W f n u ith damask e fects i trod ced . ' Dum zer—F o F n A n r m the re ch . check patter . E u n q ivale t to checkerboard . De ux to nes —Two n to es . Dra — o p Cl th . ’ Dru 'd r C o A n ] O loth of G ld . trade ame for n i n um n a fabric wove the g , of classic Italia 'warp) and u fi n and o o t ssah 'lli g), boiled off to the c l r of pale A n u n gold . rece t prod ctio . Dm de L ons —A n F n p y rich , plai re ch silk made o n o n Ly s looms . B m de s aze—A p somewhat heavy corded weave .

Literally silk cloth . ' — Dray - s a tzu A wool material with satin - like

fi n ish . Dres den—A n f i n n chi é e fect, somewhat imitatio of the figures an d colori ngs seen i n th e famous decor n in D n S n ated porcelai made resde , axo y

Dueues s e—A u u n s perior q ality of sati , of good body an d high l ustre . ' — ’ ' E eos s uzs - Gen re F o ecos s uzs F n S h r m , re ch for cotc , — and g en re a style o f figu re and color i n tissue ill us t rati n - n n an d u g every day life, ma ers c stoms, the same n a as in p ai nti g n d other arts . — E cru Raw un i n n u o . , bleached silk its at ral col r ’ F e raw r ruuus n . om , Lati for [ 8 ] — E u Ca rr eezu A squ are pattern .

’ E zu /e—A in t p ribbed fabric vast varie y, show g — i ng mode rately large an d smaller ribs altern ati ng in i n i n u an d n . plai , fig res colors ’ s —F n Fa conne ren ch for fa cy weaves .

' Fu zlle —A dra n soft, py weave of the grosgrai fi H n o u d ne . an order, with very ribs eavier tha f lard u witho t gloss . ' ' Fa zlle Fra u u zs e—A o n F n g faille made re ch looms .

' Fu elle [ Ma r uis e —T n A n q rade ame . cloth twe ty o ne n n an d i ches wide, Lyo s made, with flat cord n n messali e fi ish . ' ' — Fuzlle tzue A light and ext remely soft weave of the faille order . ' ' Fuzlletzue Mo i re—A i n f t light faille moiré e fec . F i n illi ng the cross threads a woven fabric . ’ ' Fleur de s aze F e F n low r of silk . ace of sati de n n n i n Lyo s twill , with a backi g i terlaced what is

n n - n n k ow as the twelve shaft sati pri ciple . Fleur de e lo u rs —F o f A fine and V lower velours . u o u very s peri r grade of velo rs . Flo ren ti ne—A uz u o in ga e weave, m ch empl yed n fi and n u maki g arti cial flowers, for milli ery p rposes

gen erally . — Fo li es B e rgerac Trade n ame for a n e w washable ' F Fo li s B d . e e n o u silk rom the erg res, a te am se n i n P me t resort aris . — — F aula rd A - and - in two two thread weave, form g fin e O n l o o a soft , , lavable silk . rigi al y imp rted fr m n n o w in un I dia, made other co tries . [ 9] Fo u /ela ti on wea v es —T b ut e — n r here are thre plai , A ll n an d n . twill sati others are variatio s of these . — Fo ur - [ u - Oue Trade n ame for a clo sely woven Jap

n an d n - o o a ese fabric, claimed to be spot ~ perspiratio pr f, a n u a an d also absol tely fast bl ck . Ga u re F auffre r u o r fl rom g , to fig re cloth f A n f v el v et to ho n eyco mb or wa fle . e fect produced b u auffra e in n n y press re or g g cale deri g, by which the u o an b ut s rface of alm st y fabric, especially the lighter can n fo r irn s r S n weaves, be pressed i to of elief . ati s, n n m o F u for i sta ce, may be ade to imitate m iré . l ted and accordion - pleated effects are o btai n ed in like n man er . — Ga uz e F n az e fin e and u r . re ch , g ' a very p ec lia

A w ile o f un n . n n weave the b ti g order thi , or veili g . . — Gla ce A l ustrou s effect imparted by we av m g F n and S ecial n . l n two to es, a p fi ish rom glacia , havi g

the sheen o fglacier ice . ’ — Gra ua m o tfie r S ilk Registered trade n ame for a

fin e u - i n an d o o u o , p re dye silk, black c l rs, of s peri r n A n n n weave an d fi ish . re aissa ce of the rich a d

durable silk of the o lden time .

i te—A u f Gra n sort of arm re e fect . — Gra n i te s o le A rich an d elegan t form of faco n n e' i n n o n o . in c lor a whitish gray, as see the gra ite r ck ’ ' — reua a zue n n - uz - G A ope work, ga e like fabric of E l n and n n Th e silk or wool . xtreme y thi tra spare t . ’' ’ n n r ua a zue a e s o le silk fabric is k ow as g e . ’ Gros a e To urs —R n fet f esembli g ta f as, the di fer [ 10 ] n n n o n e o r e ce bei g that , i stead of , two more picks are n i n n fine s ur i serted the same shed, formi g a ribbed A u l n face . s b imated grosgrai . ' — Grosg ra zu From gro s 'coarse or large) and n n l A grai 'ker e ). ribbed fabric with heavy thread ’ u n n n C n l r i g crosswise . lassed with the épi g es . Gros n n G N G Co u a G de Lo do , ros de aples, ros de l mbi , ros P a nd l o n u u G o de aris, a l the ther mero s r s are o f n h the same ge eral c aracter .

' H a buta e—~ A n soft, washable Japa es e silk . ' ' — H a buta e ele S u zs s e Trade name for a p ure dye

- o l H u i n spot pro f si k of the ab ta order, fi ished with l u little stre .

H a m m e red S i lk—A n u n v rece tly pro—d ced o elty, w n f sho i g e fect as of hammered metal copper, brass — o r other i m parted in the weave by u s e of th e jac uard T n w . n e ne i q rade ame for a ckwear fabr c . ' — Ha r/e guzu C/zee/es A plaid effect i n three or

o n o A - m re disti ct col rs . fter the party col o red dress

' u o n l u n of a b ff o , or har eq i . ‘ — H ea zaer S i lk T n f r u - fin i s h e d rade ame o a ro gh , u b o f u o n n in p re dye fa ric exq isite s ft ess, see a great o f o o u n variety artistic c l r effects, res lti g from the un ion of two co n trastin g colo rs or shades i n both warp and A n weft . imitatio n in silk o f the heather effects n i n S o o o n see c tch w le s . — H o m esp un A silk weave i n imitati o n o f S cotch o o n or Irish w le s . ' [ m r zm el —F n n p re ch for pri ted . [ 11] ' ’ ' — [ m rzm e R a dze us e A - u t c p brightly l s red arti le,

- n A n s urface pri ted . trade ame .

’ [ r zdes eeul —R n w an d o ai bo shot c lor effect, show i n t u an d l o f o g prisma ic h es p ay c lor . ja cqua r d Efi eers Fig ures produ ced by th e n n n n M u F n mecha ism i ve ted by Jea arie Jacq ard, a re ch n u o f o f N n ge i s the time the first apoleo .

’ ' a rdzu zer e—F n fo r o G n j re ch fl wer pot . arde effect , i n which m an y colors are employed to fo rm pattern s o f b u u . ds , fr it , flowers, foliage, etc as e r —B n j p lack warp with white filli g, or white n n C o warp with black filli g, formi g a gray . mmer

i ll no wn u n - c a k as j asper or g metal shade . y — K /zedlv e Trade n a m e fo r a fabric of Orien tal character . ’ ' ' —F w S n n L a uee re nch for thro n . howi g ti y dots or specks 'also fin e pi n p o m t or pettits pois e f wn n fe ct s u o n u . , as if the fig res were thro the gro d L a us do u ue —A i n fin e mixed fabric twill , with silk A n u n o . l an d . face worsted back excl sive . ve ty — L a Vag ue A moiré effect fo rmed by fin e satin B n n un A n n li n es o n a e gali e gro d . trade ame of rece t n adopti o . L e u u le—T n a j g rade ame for a he vy, coarse weave n l o f n n n o showi g g impses yar of co trasti g c lors, with n O rien tal suggestio s . ' — L zéer l A n C o . y ame first applied by Liberty ,

n n an d P n t — b n i n n o f Lo do aris, co ver ers y pri t g, dy ei g — and fini s hing o fvari o u s silk go o ds direct from th e [ I 2 ] _ to n o f h n loom , a wide ra ge fabrics a dled by them i n un n o Later, this co try, the ame was ad pted by the

d - S l Co . an u n Liberty i k , applied, der trade mark, to a — variety of their exclu sive pro d uction s as Liberty S n C e T P u ati , Liberty r pe, Liberty affetas, Liberty ea So B n an d o n u de ie, Liberty rillia t ther, mai ly or excl

- N n o w n a s iv e ly piece dyed fabrics . ame ge erally p to n u u plied a wide ra ge of fabrics thro gho t the trade .

’ zs s e—F o m l o — l L u . A r iss m s pple, flexib e sort of

o n o f uz o Mu chiff the ga e rder with crepe twist . ch r n an d n u u sed fo r uchi gs ki dred p rposes . ’ ' — Zlo u zs zue A fine - n - - fin ~ grai ed, light weight, soft i s h e d silk i n basket weave 'in visible to the eye) ' n n adapted especially for traveli g gow s . ’ ’ — L o uzs zue E m p i re Trade n ame for a superior

q uality of above weave .

L o u zs 'I V L o u zs ' V R e ence Dzrecto zre E m , g , ,

i re e tc —T t o n p , . erms employed desig ate the styles t hat prevai led i n certain perio ds o f the po litical his t o f F n n n u ory ra ce, by attachi g the ame of the r ler or o o f o n n n n f rm g ver me t the existi g .

L ux o r— A n weave of the sati family, with a high n b ut u o u n n u A fi ish , less l str s tha a sati d chesse .

um u u de lur e o —b s pt o s fabric, , of a reversible rder oth l k sides a i e .

’ Ma rce llzu e—A l n n u ight , thi , diapha o s fabric , u l r l l n an d o n n sed a ge y for mi li ery ther li i gs . Illa telas s e—A o n u weave sh wi g a q ilted effect, [ 13 ] u o n n u Fr F n tho gh a very dimi tive scale . om the re ch m a te /as A n u ' glice , q ilt .

Ma tte —A n u F P fai t, d ll shade . rom maté or ara u w no n w g ay tea, other ise k w as the calabash herb, hich

u - n is of a pec liar grayish gree color .

Max i n e Taf e ta s - A fin e wove n an d exquisitely o t n am m n s ft taffe as, registered e, by per issio from M n El o u axi e li tt , the pop lar actress .

Me la n e—M A d n i n g ixed . pplie to fabrics wove two o r m o re colors i n a man n er to pro du ce an irregu u n o f u n n lar distrib tio same, s ch , for i sta ce, as pepper ' n d a salt .

' Me rv e i lle ux - A member of the sati n family show in l l u u F m erv a i lle g a ight , stro s twill . rom , marvel .

Mes s a li ne—A n Ma an fi ish . y be imparted to y n n u an d u O weave, re deri g it exq isitely soft s pple . rigi n fin e o n ul u ally a , s ft imperial sati of pec iar text re i n o n n l h n z n n F made Ly s o y , wit orga i e filli g . rom M l n E o C u u th e essa i a, third wife of mper r la di s, most o o n i n Ro n i nfam us w ma ma history . — Mika do Tafle ta li ue Trade n ame for a pec uliar o fl f weave ight ta fetas .

' '

Mi ro i r M zro zte—M n - ff , irror or looki g glass e ects . Mi ro i r da N e r d—S e o n s u ame as for g i g, with g

n o f N —a gestio s the orth glacial effect .

o i re—A r f u us e e n M wate ed e fect. prod ced by of graved ro llers an d high pressu re o n corded mate

rial . ' — Mo i r e A n tiqu e or Mo i re A n tique A fabric i n n n u s watered desig to imitate a tiq e effect . ' — M o i re apo is A watered effect with small satin

n o u do ts spri kled ver the s rface . ’ — Mo i re B e ng a l Trade name for a li n e o f goods no t differi ng partic ularly fro m ma ny other watered u st ffs . ’ o i r B e a l olide— A M e ng S Same as above . trade n ame . ’ Mo i re Di a m en t—S ame as above . Mo i re Fra n a is e —A i n c moiré effect stripes, pro duce d us e n l by of e graved ro lers . ’ ’ — Jlfo i re fm p e r ia l Showin g an i n defi n ite watered n n effect co veri g the e tire surface . ’ M o i re ll/[ e ta lli ue— P n n d u g rese ti g a watere , clo ded A d o n . an fr sted appeara ce . metallic effect ' ’ — M o i re N a cre Mo - o f- f o n ther pearl e fect, sh wi g the delicate pi n kish fl ush an d delicate ti n ts seen in the o f i n terior sea shells . ’ ll/[ o i re Ocea n— W i n n un atered a desig of wavy, u in d lat g stripes . — Mai re P opli n A wool - fille d corded fabric with

watered effect . ’ — Mo i r e R ena is s a nce A fabric watered in Renais n n sa ce desig . ’ Mo i r e S ci n tilla n t— A n t n o r l u u sci illati g, _ stro s, I n n o i n watered fabric . sati , a m iré material which the tram threads are woven to produce a pec uliarly f bright e fect . ' M o i re u rem e—A n t S . p rich sati weave, wa ered ’ — Mo i re Ty ro li e n A trade n ame of no special sign ifican ce . ’ — Mo i re Ve lo urs A moiré fabric i n velvety effect S e V m i n n n . e l u i parted the cale deri g e o rs .

— - M o ney bak Registered trade n ame for a superior f and depen dable grade of ta fetas . Mo oto ne— n e n n O to e or color . — Mo us s e li n e de S o i e A n extremely light - weight

A n lice l u n silk fabric . g , si k m sli . — N a cre F n A - re ch for pearly . delicate pearl shell N O n n nalei r effect . ame of rie tal origi , from hollowed ' a pearly substan ce which lin es th e in n er

- - n o f . side of ma y shells, most especially mother pearl ’ N a tte T A n n ressed or basket weave . am e give to a fabric co nstr ucted i n loose check design in o ne o r m i n nn b ore colors, a ma er to give the cloth a raided n appeara ce . ’ N id d Abe ille —B eehive effect . —F N o u v ea u n fo r n e w n . re ch , ovel ’ — Om bre R ay e A n effect form ed by altern ati n g ’ s tri e s o f un i n ombre stripes with p the fo dat o color . ’ 0 ndi ne—A B n n thick cord e gali e, with every third n cord cri kled . ’ ’ dule—F F n o n d l un u 0 n u e . rom the re ch , d late f A n lice . g , a wavy e fect r d —A n n n u n Ma O a n . g y thi , light, tra spare t m sli y o n be o f silk o r cott . Or a nz i n e—Th e fi u an d g silk bre do bled twisted, ' ' r n n n fo r w r as th ow i to yar a p threads . [ 16 ]

P as tel—N d - of ame applie to a series soft, flat , gray n n i to es of colors as see n crayo n work . P ea u—F n n re ch for ski , hide, pelt . — P eau de Crep e Copyrighted trade n ame fo r an

u re - u exq isitely soft , c py material, kid like to the to ch , and o f u o r n an d n s peri weari g drapi g q ualities . P ea u de C / n e—S n n On e jg ki of swa . of the n um u s P u l Of ero s varietie of the ea fami y . a soft tex ' u an d n an d n u t re fi ish , a ha d s ggestive of the feel um n —F n c ne of the pl age of a swa re ch, y . — g P ea u de S o i e A n eight - shaft sati n with o n e poin t o n o r n n i m added, the right left, to origi al sati spots, a n n n p rti g to the fabric a somewhat grai y appeara ce . n o f Literally, sk—i silk . F elzi ns Fabrics i n which the stripes run in the. o n o f directi the warp .

P ers ia n —A n i o u u d thi , silk fabr c f rmerly m ch se n n for li i gs . — P e rs ia n EfiKCfS AISO called Orien tal and cash S ho n u n an d n mere . wi g the pec liar desig s color to es co mmo n t o cashmere shawls and other I n dian and T u hib etan textile prod ction s .

' ’ P i ts P is —T n o o r F n e t o i y d ts specks . re ch for

small peas .

' P ic t—F fo r n A l an d o n . re ch spli ter pp ied to e ge, n in n n 10 0 o ut o n as see certai ribbo s, ped to f rm a fi ish — d o n o n e or b o th sides picot e ge . P i s s —F fo r A l e re n ch pleated . pleated effect to l an n u n that may be applied a most y material, i cl di g [ 18 ] Ma b d n b m achi n e r _ o r in velvets . y e o e y y , , as case of ' f F m F lis s e r o n u s e o n . n ribb s, by draw stri gs ro re ch p ,

to t o l t o o d . plait , crimp e, f l , etc ’ — ’ P lis s e Om b re A n e w arm ure weave i n pli s s e f an d o d n e fect mbré sha i g . ’ P i —Do o i n t lle tted . P o m a do u r— F M P u t p rom adam ompado r, mis ress o f u 'V wh o an i n n u n Lo is , created epoch fashio d ri g n u P u f ap orti o n of the past ce t ry . ompado r e fects as n i n l a nd o n i n see si ks ribb s are largely floral character, an d are r i n o o n o exp essed rich , soft c l ri gs, s mewhat of o S u the pastel rder . ometimes applied to a pec liar o n n crim s or pi k shade . — P o m pa do ur Gros de To u r A high - class gros i n fine u an d n Po m o u . grai , with ribbed s rface pad r effect

P o n e e —A n o n i n um u u of g plai silk w ve the g , s ally ' n s u i n o o o ff si gle , which may be sed that f rm or b iled ,

d - n N E an may be piece dyed or pri ted . ame of ast n n o n a n d n i o f un I dia rigi , origi ally applied to a fabr c l n o r C n dyed si k from I dia hi a . P o li — F n o eli ne— u A p n Fro m the re ch p p l stre . n u u l o f l an d fabric of ma y varieties, s al y si k worsted . o an d o Irish p pli n is made of silk warp w rsted weft . — P op e li n ette A n extremely light - weight poplin w n n n an d . eave , betwee a gre adi e taffetas P u lt de o i e —A n an d u l o S u . — pec liarly stro g d rable si k P u nja b S i lks Do mestic imitatio n s o fI n dian fab

‘

. S en i n n and an rics e checks, fa cies, shot ch geable f o r u o o e fects, with fig res imparted by box l m or jac uard q work . [ 19 ] P u n a e re —A n e w r u h av e A d m e j p o g we . tra e na . ’ — Qua dr zlle A pplied u s ually to small checks i n u Th e n sq ares . shepherd checks may be classed ge r ll o n e a y as am g the q uadrillés . — Q ueen S ilk A very soft fabric of the chiffo n o o n a n d - d in n rder, b th yar piece dye , widths from twe ty o n t o - Si x lu e thirty ches . ’ — R acs ag aa a Trade n ame for o n e of the ne w rough

u - wo n s rfaced, loose ve silks . — R adia A - u - n Sllk n o forty fo r i ch , Lyo s made 's ft an d in n u n sheer, plai weaves, with high l stre . Is see ’ i n n an d all colors, both plai imprime .

‘ R a di - J an w n n um rade n ame for e li i g silk . R a a h —T n fo r n u o n A j rade ame a rece t prod cti . u u an d m cloth of very firm text re, wide, ro gh co pact ,

- i n ll Th e u n piece dyed a colors . ro gh material is i tro u d i n th e n d ce filli g . R a e—F n y re ch for striped . F R ay u re ren ch fo r stripe .

R /i a dz i e r—A m sort of twill . — Rna de i in e r S a ran A s urah with a mo dified rib l u or twi l across the s rface . — R oy a le A modification o f Gros de Tours 'the n i n the n o rib li e, which latter is exte ded straight acr ss n o n o ff n n the cloth , bei g br ke at i tervals, after a give o f n umber warp threads . — S a ti n A silk cloth of close texture and over- shot T u ' h o u . C warp, wit rich , gl ssy s rface h s loths of u — /za uce r n e C . gold an d sati s rich of h . E2 0 ] — S a ti n de Cai ne A n ext remely soft an d drapy

- n sati n with crepe like fi ish . l i n e— n S a ti n de a Woo l sati . — S a ti n Gr ec A twelve - harness sati n i n which a n n n t taffetas poi t is added at each place of i terlaci g, wi h f fm ak m o u e fect o g the cl th m ch firmer . i e r e —A n S a t n S g sati twill . — S a ti n S ole i l A fabric of satin - like surface with a

r s - n a n a nd n un n c o s li e appe ra ce a pro o ced shee .

i ti lla n t— F n s n n n S c n . re ch for ci tillati g, sparkli g l A chan geab e effect . — S ee d Efeets A re fo rmed by tin y dots which give the appeara n ce as if smal l seeds had been strewn over u o f u the s rface the tiss e . r —F S e g e ren ch for twill . — S er v i s i lk Co pyrighted trade n ame for a superior u n at n fo r n n fo d io silk soft, cli gi g fabrics . — Sna ntung A ro ugh - surfaced silk origi nally woven l l C n l n u and from the wi d si k of hi a, with a l k ots, l mps imperfectio n s retai n ed 'n o w largely prod uced by do m s tic nu a u e ma f ct rers . — S icili e nne A very light - weight fabric aki n to m o u sseli n e de so ie also a co rded silk and wool fab B n l n ric like e ga i e . — S ill'E ta m i ne A n o velty weave i n twen ty- s ix n o f o n n o us e i ch width , s ft , cli gi g variety, ad pted for u n i T n . as s iti g mater al . rade ame S o i e B a tis te—S ‘ o ne o ilk batiste, of the m st dia h ano us o f S u Ma p mmer silk fabrics . y be severely

i n w th se - he n fi u pla or i lf colored dots or ot r ti y g res . [ 2 1] ' S o le il—A n n s u éh ame attached to shi y materials,

l u in l n an d n as are large y sed the mil i ery trade, sati dre s s we ar soleil for .

S e u le— A u i n n p d ll effect silk dyei g . — S u in i n a S i lk Trade n ame given to a selected u l o f lo an d u hab tai si k c se, smooth weave high l stre, to S o an d claimed be p t waterproof . — S uran E cos s a is Qua dr ille A s urah i n design and n S o u o r colori g of c tch sq ares, shepherd checks . — S wi v el Efed s Prod uced b y us e of a dimi n utive u i n u n r n sh ttle fig re weavi g, the same car yi g threads of vario us shades with the o bj ect of obtai n i ng special i n n u effects, as the shadi g of fig res, flowers, foliage, etc . — Sy ra Gaz a Registered trade n ame for a n e w u n O n h and n ro gh silk, wove with pe mes , desig ed for . us e n n as li i g . ’ ‘ Ta e tas —A n /j silk fabric of plai weave, with warp threads m uch fi n er an d more n um ero u s than the hard un n T u sp filli g threads . his makes the s rface of the n n Th e n fabric ribbed, with warp alo e showi g . ame

f P ta t o n a n S n . ta fetas is fr m the ersia f , pi _to ‘ Ta/jetas M eta lligue - A taffetas fi nished i n metallic

effect . Ta eta s n i—P n f ff ' lai ta fetas .

Ta e tas e a v e — fi W Same as plai n weave or un i .

Ta rta n— F o F n ta r ta n e S n ti r i r m the re ch ' pa ish , ta na —a o f n A l o sort thi silk . so, a checkered or cr ss ' ' patter n or plaid i n colo rs s uch as are recognized as d n v v arlo u s S n isti cti e with the cottish cla s . [ 3 2 1 L am — Tas /ziko Trade n ame for a n ew perspiratio n

n proof Japa ese silk .

‘ t de N r —N Te e eig e iggerhead . — T/i ro wn S i lk Material that has been do ubled — an d spun in to yarn s of various sizes organzi n e o r — n o o The tram in preparatio for the l m . raw silk of ' ' c n n n u u n commer e bei g a co ti o s fibre, it is throw n n u i to yar s, whereas short staples, s ch as silk waste,

n un u . cotto , wo—ol or flax, are sp to achieve a like res lt T a F n r in . illi g, weft — Tra v ers Stripes runnln g 1n the direction of the

n i n e . filli g, similar to those bayad res — Tus s a /z A species of rough silk obtai n ed fro m ' ' o n o t i n an d o n wild w rms, captivity, that feed oak o an d other leaves of the f rest . It is sometimes called ' ' W S n d in an the ild ilk of I ia, is darker color th ordi n o n n um and ffi u ary raw silk, c tai s more g , is more di c lt z to utili e . n i—P n ' lai weave . lo u s —F n t F n Ve r re ch for velve . rom the Lati

v e llos a s — A n u h hairy . pile fabric somewhat aki to pl s , u i n n u o l n and that is prod ced m berless forms, b th p ai i n n f fa cy e fects . — Ve lo urs Albigeo is A fan cy striped velours fabric in n un n n n two or more to es, the stripes r i g seve or to Mi ) eight the d .

Wlo u rs - A utique - E cos s a i s A n antique- plaited ff u e ect velo rs . — elo urs E co A l d ur V ss ais p ai v elo s . [ 2 3 ] Velo u rs E cra s e—S to i t imilar m roir velve . — Velo u rs Grosg ra i n A gro sgrain weave with a

h - l i o n . ric , s ft , velvet ke fi ish — Ve lo u rs Otto m a n R n F n esembli g faille ra caise . H n o n o To u an d avi g a br ader rib effect tha gr s de rs, n with heavier bi der warp . — Ve lo u rs P ers i en Trade name for a velou rs i n P ersian effect . — Velo u rs R us s e A fabric of glacé fo un dation with o an d o n n silk c rds stripes of c trasti g colors . — ' Ve lo urs S o le il A velours with bright sh een i m n parted i n the fi ish .

Velv e t—A n o fabric showi g a sh rt , soft, thick pile an d n Ma or n ap of erect threads plai back . y have silk and o n l l face cott back, or the back a so may be of si k . ' — Th e an n Vo iles Veili ngs . sheerest d thin est of

the gauze fabrics . — Warp Th e l o n git udin al threads i n a woven

fabric . Wa rp Efleets Pattern s which depen d main ly n o f upo n the treatme t the warp . — Wa rp P r i n ts Fabrics i n which de s 1gn s have been

pri n ted o n the stretched warp before the weavi n g .

a te re tte— T n e o an d W rade ame for wat r, sp t per

'

- spirati o n pro of black taffetas . — n Th e i n Weft Same as filli g . cross threads a

wo ven fabric . — Yur i - Ha n a A n n n n duc d li i g silk rece tly i tro e , e A trade nam . [ 2 4 ]