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Home , Digital textile printing, Jersey (fabric), Sateen, Satin, Textile printing, Twill

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While fabrics may look the same, the quality can differ among suppliers. This is 100% , - printed on a Kornit machine. Why Fabric Matters Finding the Right Fit of Fabric and Technology

hy does fabric matter? It might seem like Identifying Processes for Applications a simple question, but it’s an important -sublimation, undoubtedly, is the biggest W one. Having the right fabric for a project segment in digital and can be used for can be the difference between success and failure. An signage, home décor, and apparel products. This is image may look great, but if the fabric does not hold a method of printing fabric with disperse up and perform properly, the project will fail. There , in which the designs are printed on and are so many elements that contribute to successful transferred onto the fabric using heat via a digital printing whether the project is for the or heat press. Because the dyes are gassed onto apparel, home décor, or signage markets. the fabric, the result is excellent penetration into It’s critical to factor in fabric construction and the and extremely sharp images. Machines By Michael Sanders, determine if a knit, warp knit, or is come in a variety of sizes, widths, and price points; Director of Printable right for the project; this will be the key to ap- volume and project needs will determine the best fit Fabrics & plication success. It will also impact price — it’s for one’s business. Technology, TVF important to remember the adage, “you get what Direct disperse is another method of printing

All images courtesy of TVF. you pay for.” When talking to a fabric vendor, it’s polyester fabric using disperse dye. This is mainly imperative to discuss construction and quality. used with projects requiring higher saturation of Before considering the specific jobs within differ- dyes, including signage, banners, silicone edge ent markets, it’s helpful to review the machinery graphic (SEG) frame systems, and flags. With the and print technologies needed for each area of the direct-disperse system, disperse coating is applied printing . directly to the fabric when it is being produced

22 | PRINTING United Journal March 2021 Visit us at SGIA.org and finished. Because no paper is Every partnership in the needed, it can be very cost effective digital textile process and better for the environment. is important, including Combo machines allow printers to the spectrophotometers utilize both direct-disperse and dye- used for color management. sublimation technologies, however, dye-sublimation will result in better clarity and detail and should be the method of choice if the product is going to be seen up close. Pigment printing is probably the holy grail of digital printing. Most printing done on rotary or flatbed machines is produced with . Pigments are not dyes — they are made up of a colorant with a binder, with the binder acting as a glue to hold the pigment onto the fabric. Pigment printing’s advantages are that it can go onto any substrate and any blend of fabric, and it has outstanding color repeatability. Pigments also boast excellent lightfastness. The main struggles with this type of digital printing are crockfastness and washfastness, with the biggest challenge being this issue, and there are many dif- fabric after it’s printed. The necessary getting enough binder through the ferent platforms already available. It additional equipment precludes most printheads. This is due to the larger should be noted that latex is actually companies from using these methods. size molecules within the binder. a form of pigment printing. UV (Repeatability is also an issue.) To combat these issues, fabric may printing is another type of pigment, require a pretreatment prior to however, instead of a binder, the Not All Fabrics Are printing. Luckily, new technologies is cured with UV light. This is used Created Equal are being developed that overcome not only for fabrics, but for many Now that there is a basic under- other substrates. standing of the machines, processes, Finally, reactive dyes are used for and technology involved, it’s time to A machine weaves cotton and other cellulosic fibers, move on to the fabrics. two-up. Discussing and acid dyes are used for and In the apparel market, it is fabric construction is crucial when . These require special coatings, possible to use a 6.5-oz cotton working with suppliers. as well as washing and steaming the to make a T-; however, not all 6.5-oz cotton jerseys are the same. A cotton jersey made from open-end will perform much differently compared to a cotton jersey made from Supima cotton, and ultimately, the T- will have completely different lifespans. The open-end cotton will begin to pill the first time it’s laundered and will become hairy with increased pilling after about 10 washings, while the Supima cotton T-shirt will last for years. Both are 6.5-oz cotton jerseys, but the quality, wearability, and pricing are completely different. (Pricing may double or even triple in cost, de- pending on and construction.) Analyzing quality is important for all types of fabrics whether it’s

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cotton, polyester, or blends. In the home décor market, dif- ferent weaves can impact the quality and longevity of fabrics, as well as make a tremendous difference in performance. When comparing a square weave to a weave, for example, the latter will outperform every time. Thread count is another factor that must be considered. A may be made out of a 60x60 (120-thread-count) sheeting using 30 single threads, or it can be made from a 380x420 (800-thread-count) weave using 100 single threads. The 120-count sheet will last about a year while the 800-count sheet can last for a lifetime. In the signage market, a warp knit is normally the best construc- tion to use because it has a locking that won’t tear. Warp knits also have increased dimensional stability compared to wovens, while circular knits won’t work at all. There are some wovens on the market that will work for signage, however, warp knits will outperform wovens 99% of the time. Warp knits also typically

A warp machine at Georg+Otto Friedrich in Germany. A warp knit is normally the best construction to use for signage because it has a locking stitch that won’t tear. Courtesy of TVF/Georg+Otto Friedrich.

Digital cutting at an industrial level.

1.5 m

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24 | PRINTING United Journal March 2021 Visit us at SGIA.org achieve a much crisper print quality. When it comes to yarn quality, Coatings are also an important factor cottons and use different and can significantly impact clarity, terminology. For cottons, descriptors Suppliers should have a high level migration, color-to-lightfastness, and such as open-end, combed, combed of quality control, checking for all crocking. Again, “you get what you ring-spun, and Supima, are used. For specifications, including testing fabrics for shrinkage in length, pay for” holds true. polyesters, filament size, textured width, and torque. There are many factors to consider or non-textured, dull, semi-dull, when sourcing fabrics for digital , and the smallest variables can significantly impact the outcome of the project.

Understanding Constructions It’s crucial to be specific about fabric construction when discussing fabric with suppliers, whether it’s a woven, warp knit, or knit. Yarn count — how many yarns are visible per square inch of fabric — is also important. This can be calculated by using a pick glass to count the number of yarns in each direction — . For instance, a broadcloth construction can be 132x72, which is a 204 count using 40 singles of combed ring-spun cotton. Yarn sizes typically range from 10 to 80 singles; the smaller the yarn number, the bigger the yarn. Thus, 80 singles is a very fine yarn. Typi- cally, yarn sizes that are 40 singles and above are wet spun. This creates a much higher quality substrate. This does not mean that a 20-singles fabric is bad, however, the yarn would likely be made into a heavy duck or canvas.

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shiny, or spun polyester can be used. There are numerous factors to con- sider with fabrics and each of them are important in different ways. Ulti- mately, fabrics may look the same, but they are not; the “same” fabric from different suppliers may not be the same quality. The rule of thumb is to get a good fabric supplier to analyze any fabric and provide a spec sheet. If the supplier can’t or won’t supply detailed information about the fabric, a new fabric partner is needed. Thorough fabric analysis requires a full width sample of a quarter-yard cut from selvage to selvage. (At a minimum, a 6x7” sample would work). In the case of garment replace- ment, the textile expert who is doing the analysis must cut the fabric. The fabric analysis process with a trusted supplier should ensure confidence that the right fabric will be found. After analysis, it is quite common that the customer finds out their fabric has a completely different con- struction from what was originally described. It’s important for people to investigate thoroughly and ensure they are getting the right fabrics for their needs. Home décor, hospitality, and and fabric torquing (twisting or signage projects require fire rotating) is a big issue as well. One repellant (FR) certifications for Pay Attention to Shrinkage flammability, among other testing example of torquing is a pant seam One of the most overlooked aspects of requirements. This Yellowstone that moves from the side to the front fabric digital printers need to consider fabric is constructed with flame- or back of the garment after it’s is shrinkage. Shrinkage is determined retardant yarn. washed. Torquing can also happen by measuring the fabric in width, in signage projects, especially with length, and torque after laundering. It’s important that fabric is weaves for SEG applications. This is done by marking the fabric sourced from a supplier that provides The twill fabric will likely move with permanent ink and following consistency and has a high level of even after installation. While a twill wash instructions exactly (similar to quality control, checking the weight, weave is great for a pair of Levi’s, what is found on a care tag). shrinkage, printability, and all fabric it’s not the best option for SEG due specifications. If the fabric changes in to the construction. Twill signage any way, a new shrinkage test must fabrics can also make an image look be done. Otherwise, the fabric will pixelated and are not recommended. not fit into the SEG, banner teardrop, Shrinkage should be built into etc., after printing. Of course, the the fabric profile. Some fabrics may larger the project, the more distortion have higher shrinkage due to the Pigments being is expected. material content and construction. tested for crocking In the apparel industry, the rule of In summary, sourcing preshrunk, using the American thumb is for every 5% change, there consistent fabric is vital to ensure Association of will be a one size difference. It’s also the workflow runs smoothly in the Textile Chemists and Colorists good to know that most of the time apparel, home décor, or signage method. the shrinkage occurs in the length. markets. Crockfastness and To avoid being stretched, the fewest washfastness are tension bars should be used when fabric The Importance of Testing the main struggles with pigment is pulled through the printer. (Tension Another key to success lies in printing. bars are there to help prevent wrin- textile testing. The textile supplier kles.) Tension can create problems, must recognize all required testing

26 | PRINTING United Journal March 2021 Visit us at SGIA.org for each digital printing market segment, whether signage, apparel, Dye-sublimation, undoubtedly, is the or home décor. Every market and can segment adheres to different biggest segment in digital printing test methods and it’s crucial to be used for signage, home décor, and apparel products. understand each one. When it comes to apparel, color-to-washfastness testing is extremely important, however, it will look out for their customers. changing suppliers might be may be unnecessary for upholstery The fabric supplier is only as good necessary. or signage projects. This is because as their customers’ success. If one Over the past few years, most people do not wash couches and part of the partnership fails, the companies have pivoted to work di- signs. In contrast, in the home entire team fails, and it’s crucial that rectly with textile suppliers and mills décor market, upholstery fabrics reliable and knowledgeable people that meet environmental standards. should be abrasion tested with the make up the supply chain. In digital The switch to organic and recycled Wyzenbeek method. Home décor, textile printing, it’s also necessary to fabrics has built strong momentum, hospitality, and signage projects have the right machinery partner to even with a more expensive price will also require fire repellant (FR) support and service the printer. Ad- tag. It’s likely that people are going certifications for flammability ditionally, having the right profiles to continue asking for fabrics and (NFPA260, UFCA, CATB117- and profiling equipment is a must. mill certifications that showcase 2013, and NFPA701-1). In fact, Simply looking for short-term assis- suppliers’ environmentally conscious FR certifications will need to be tance will be detrimental in the end; practices — it’s the way forward. on-hand for trade show, hotel, building long-term partnerships The focus on environmental sustain- restaurant, and other commercial that can evolve with the technology ability has significantly impacted the projects. All textile testing methods will make a tremendous difference. apparel market. Fast is start- are regulated by the American Specifically, in textile partner- ing to be a thing of the past, with Association of Textile Chemists and ships, it’s important to note that not a new generation of consumers de- Colorists, and can be found in the every supplier will have the right manding sustainable products that organization’s technical manual. fabric for all needs. People need to last. Of course, the price is higher have an open mind and continue for better constructions, but it’s well Additional Supplier/Fabric to learn about fabrics. Many mills worth it for the environment. Sourcing Considerations are specialized, so partnering with Another important factor is It’s critical to partner with a fabric a supplier who offers variety might workers’ rights. Factories must be supplier that is trustworthy and be necessary. Again, the key is de- compliant and ensure a safe and veloping a relationship with a textile healthy work environment, so For bike jerseys and other athleisure supplier who can spec out fabric and employees are not taken advantage applications, an interlock fabric that provide shrinkage percentages and of. Suppliers must be aware of the offers mechanical strength in the width and moisture management is testing certifications. If the supplier conditions within the mills they are ideal. can’t deliver this information, working with. There are many great fabric suppliers in the digital printing industry. It’s important to under- stand as much as possible about the fabric in order to ensure a successful printing experience. Q

Michael Sanders is the director of printable and finishing tech- nology for TVF. He has been part of the for more than 40 years and has extensive knowledge and experience in , printing, and finishing both natural and syn- thetic fabrics. His involvement and work with goes back to the early days of the discipline’s existence. Today, Sanders sits on boards and expert panels and gives lectures nationally.

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