Technology Education Key Learning Area

Technology and Living

(Secondary 1-3)

TEXTILES AND

TEXTILE

TECHNOLOGY

Booklet 1 Family and Lifestyle

Booklet 2 Consumer Behaviour in Food Choices and Implications

Booklet 3 Health and Nutrition

Booklet 4 Chemistry of Foods

Booklet 5 Diet and Meal Planning

Booklet 6 Food Commodities

Booklet 7 Food Preparation Technology

Booklet 8 Food Hygiene

Booklet 9 Food Spoilage and Food Poisoning

Booklet 10 Food Preservation Technology

Booklet 11 Food Culture

Booklet 12 Food Science and Technology Extended Study

Booklet 13 Food Product Development

Booklet 14 Consumer Behaviour in Clothing Choices and Implications

Booklet 15 Fashion Design Basics

Booklet 16 Fibres and Fabrics

Booklet 17 Clothing Technology

Booklet 18 Culture and Fashion Design

Booklet 19 Textiles and Textile Technology

Booklet 20 Apparel Industry

Textiles and Textile Technology

19.1 Fibre Blend

Fibre blending is a common method to produce new textile materials by combining properties of individual fibre components together. There are many fibre blends available in the market. Some examples are cotton – polyester, nylon – spandex, wool – rayon, etc. They serve a wide range of properties to suit different applications.

19.1.1 Types of Fibre Blends

Blending can be classified into different categories based on the textile fibre composition or way of blending used. The following are some common combinations of different fibre types:

Blending nature Type Examples A Natural– Natural Cellulosic – Cellulosic Cotton – Ramie Protein – Protein Wool – Cashmere B Natural – Regenerated Cellulosic - Cotton - Rayon Regenerated Protein - Regenerated Wool – Rayon C Natural – Synthetic Cellulosic - Synthetic Cotton – Polyester, Cotton – Spandex Protein - Synthetic Wool – Polyester, Wool – Acrylic D Synthetic – Regenerated ― Polyester – Rayon E Synthetic – Synthetic ― Nylon - Spandex

Apart from composition, classification of blended fabrics can be based on the way the fibres are blended.

Blending Nature Type Examples A Staple - Staple Yarn Cotton - Ramie B Core spun (Staple – Yarn Cotton – Polyester Core Filament Blends) Yarn C Bi-Constituent or Synthetic Filament Acrylic – Acrylic Tri-Constituent Filament D Blended Fabric Fabric Polyester Warp / Cotton Weft

1

Several types of bi-constituent or tri-component fibres with different textile materials A, B and C are fused together to form a single fibre

19.1.2 Advantages of Fibre Blending

The following is the summary of the advantages of fibre blending.

Low cost Quick development time Advantages of different fibre components can be combined and manifested Enhancement of particular advantages of a fibre component Minimise, reduce or compromise of demerits of a fibre component Give a chance to fine tune various properties to suit different applications by changing fibre composition

2

19.2 Yarn

19.2.1 Yarn Spinning

The conversion of fibres into yarns is called yarn spinning. The principle of yarn spinning is twisting fibres together for coherence. There are two common processes for yarn production, viz ring and open end spinning.

(a) Preparation of Fibres for Yarn Spinning

(i) Carding (ii) Combing Carded yarn

Combed yarn

Carded and combed yarn

(iii) Drawing Out (iv) Twisting

Flowchart illustrating processes from harvesting cotton to shipping out for yarn spinning

3

Saw ginning machine is used to separate cotton seeds from lint

(b) General Types of Yarn Spinning (i) Ring Spinning

Ring spinning

4

(ii) Open-end Spinning (Rotor Spinning)

Open-end spinning

5

19.2.2 Fibre Spinning

Fibre spinning is a similar process to yarn spinning but it refers to the formation of fibre from polymeric substances. It is a manufacturing process of synthetic fibre.

(a) Dry Spinning

(b) Melt Spinning

6

(c) Wet Spinning

19.2.3 Classification of Yarns

(a) Staple and Filament

(b) Single yarn and Ply Yarn.

Z-twist ply yarn

7

19.2.4 Novelty Yarns (Fancy Yarns)

(a) Bouclé

(b) Eyelash

(c) Flammé

(d) Ladder

(e) Ribbon

(f) Slub yarns

(g) Composite Twist Core-spun Yarn

8

19.2.5 Yarn Twisting

9

19.3 Fabric Construction

Different stages of textile production

Fabrics are usually traded in rolls. Some common terms for various parts of a fabric are as follows:

10

19.3.1 Woven Fabric

Woven fabric is the kind of fabric formed from interweaving two sets of yarns at a right angle. Warp (or ends) yarns are parallel to the machine (lengthwise) direction. Weft (filling or picks) yarns are horizontal to the cross machine (widthwise) direction.

Types of Woven Fabric and their Properties

(a) Plain Weave ● Fabric with yarn either warp or weft passes over only one yarn. Many kinds of plain weave fabric, e.g. canvas, poplin, chiffon, chambray, gingham, crepe, etc.

11

Poplin Chambray

(b) Twill ● This is a kind of woven fabric with the weft yarn passes over more than one warp yarn.

2/1 S-twill 2/2 Z-twill

Denim fabric (Z twill)

12

(c) Satin and Sateen ● Similar to twill, fabrics with a weft yarn pass over five to eight warp yarns are classified as satin or sateen. For warp on the face, this kind of fabric is called satin. For weft on the face, this kind of fabric is called sateen.

satin sateen

(d) Pile Fabrics ● Pile fabrics are fabrics with short fibres (pile) on the surface. Usually, pile is produced from cutting floating yarns on the surface of fabrics and having them brushed. Corduroy and velvet are two popular examples.

corduroy

velvet

13

19.3.2 Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are fabrics produced by interlocking loops of yarn.

Types of Knit Fabric and their Properties

(a) Weft Knit

(i) Single Jersey

Face side (sketch) Back side (sketch)

Face side (photo) Back side (photo)

14

(ii) Rib

1x1 rib 2x2 rib

(ii) Interlock

(iii) French Terry ● Those fabrics are mainly applied to towel and infant clothing production as the loosely twisted loop yarn renders the fabrics greater water absorbency and softness.

15

(b) Warp Knit ● Warp knit is a technique commonly used to construct lace, mesh, elastic knit, etc, for lingerie and swimwear.

(Source: http://www.asyoulikeitbridal.com)

19.3.3 Non-woven Fabrics

Non-woven fabrics are formed directly through fibre compression.

16

19.3.4 Fabric Properties

(a) Physical Properties ● abrasion resistance

● dimensional stability

● strength - tensile strength - tearing strength - bursting strength

● extensibility and elasticity

● thermal insulation

● air permeability

● water proofing

● water absorbency

● heat stability

● static electricity

(b) Chemical Properties ● light fading and degradation

● thermal degradation

● pH Value

● yellowing

(c) Flammability

17

19.4 Fabric Colouration

19.4.1 Dyeing

Dyeing Methods (a) Batik Dyeing ● Part of the fabric is coated with wax and dyed. Dye can only penetrate fabric area without wax. The waxed area is left blank.

(b) Dope Dyeing (Pigmentation) ● Dope dyeing refers to the colouration of man-made fibres that takes place in polymerextrusion.

(c) Cone and Beam Dyeing ● Cone and beam dyeing are yarn dyeing.

(d) Batch Dyeing ● Batch dyeing refers to the process of dyeing fabrics in a batch of a few tens of yards to a few hundred yards.

18

19.4.2 Printing Printing Methods (a) Direct Printing ● A process of printing dyes directly on fabrics to create print patterns. This technique creates coloured patterns on white fabrics.

(b) Resist Printing ● Resist printing refers to the application of a resisting agent such as wax or colourants to specific patterns to prevent the penetration of another dye.

(c) Discharge Printing ● The function of discharging agents is to remove colours from fabrics.

(d) Transfer Printing ● The printing is then transferred to textile fabrics through ironing.

19

19.5 Finishing

19.5.1 Pre-treatments

(a) Singeing ● the process of burning off loose fibres on protruding fabric surfaces.

(b) Scouring ● the process refers to the washing off of impurities in fabrics.

(c) Mercerisation (An optional finishing process) ● mercerisation is a process that applies caustic soda (NaOH) to fabrics to produce silk-like appearance for cotton.

(d) Bleaching ● bleaching is the process that removes natural colours present in textile fibres.

(e) Caustic Reduction ● the surface of the polyester fibres is eroded away in a caustic bath which reduces the weight of the fabrics and gives them a silk-like feel.

20

19.5.2 After-treatments

(a) Mechanical Treatments ● calendaring – to produce high luster fabrics

● embossing – to produce raised or projected figures or designs

● brushing (raising or napping) – to raise the fibres on the surface

● sanding and peaching – to produce a raised surface similar to suede on fabrics

● shrinkage control (sanforizing process) – to preshrink cotton fabric

● pleating – to press pleats permanently

● felting – to compact masses of wool fibre

● decatizing - to stabilise wool fabrics.

● heat setting – to stabilise thermoplastic (synthetic) fabrics

● laser trimming – to produce shapes of hole on fabrics

(b) Chemical Treatments ● shrinkage resistance and wrinkle free

● water repellency and resistance

● soil release (stain release)

● easy care

● flame resistance

● durable press (permanent press)

21

● antistatic finishes

● antibacterial and antifungal finishes.

● moothproofing finishes

● anti-pilling finishes

● nano finishes

22

19.6 Labelling and Trademarks

19.6.1 Labelling

(a) Fibre Labelling ● Fibre labelling is a mandatory requirement for textile articles in major markets such as USA, Europe, etc. It requires all the textile products to have labels that contain information in respect of fibre content of products, manufacturer or importer identification and country of origin at the point of sale.

Fibre label

USA Europe* Cotton Cotton Wool Wool Silk Silk Rayon / Viscose Viscose Spandex / Elastane Elastane Nylon Polyamide / Nylon

Comparison between fibre generic names using in USA and Europe

23

(b) Care Labelling ● Care labelling is another mandatory requirement for wearing apparel in USA. In Europe, there is no particular care labelling regulation. The following diagram shows the care symbols used in USA.

 labelling in Hong Kong - Hong Kong SAR government did not have a particular rule and regulation for labelling textile garments. According to consumer rights, it is required to have garment label to indicate care and fibre content, Hong Kong accepts all worldwide labelling system, but language should be in Chinese, English or both.

 children products - Children’s garments or products require additional safety considerations similar to toys.

24

19.6.2 Trademark

(a) Woolmark  Woolmark is a globally reconginsed textile fibre brand and is the guarantee of fibre content and quality specification. Through the licensing of Woolmark, the products can be allowed to use the related brand name: Woolmark, Woolmark Blend and Wool Blend.

(b) GORE-TEX  GORE-TEX is a technology in high-performance windproof, waterproof and breathable clothing.

GORE-TEX fabrics GORE-TEX membrane

(c) Lycra  LYCRA® is a brand name for spandex / elastane. It is widely used in swimwear, underwear, jeans, casual wear, tops, socks and hosiery.

(d) Oeko-Tex 1000  Manufacturing plants that have undergone the comprehensive examination and have achieved the prescribed standard can attach the “Confidence in textiles – Eco-friendly factory according to Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 label” to their production site.

Woolmark Gore-tex Lycra Oeko-tex 100

25

19.7 Latest Development and Environmental Issues

19.7.1 Functional Textiles

(a) Moisture Management (Quick Dry)  good wickability and low water absorbency

(b) Stain Proof  resistance to both aqueous and oily based stains

(c) Wind Blocking  prevent air flow through fabrics under pressure

(d) UV Protection  the maximum UV protection (UPF) rating is 50+

(e) Germ Killing  Nano-silver is applied to textile materials

(f) Skin Care and Fragrance  textile materials can be able to release fragrance, skin care chemical or even medicine gradually which are trapped in a coating layer with micro-capsule.

26

19.7.2 Smart Fabrics

(a) Shape Memory Fabric  shape memory polymers (SMP) can retain previous shape

(b) Garment Integrated with Electronic Devices  a combination of miniaturized electronic components and textile materials and clothing

(c) Temperature Sensitive Fabrics  able to regulate body temperature

(d) Touch Sensitive Fabrics  consoles and hard plastic switches can be replaced by soft fabric controls

(e) Auto-clean Fabrics  to disintegrated perspiration under light

(f) Medicinal Application  microcapsule fabric can incorporate medicine in the capsule and have it released gradually to wearers

19.7.3 Environmental Protection

Textile production from the stage of fibre to garment and textile products creates a lot of environmental impacts.

(a) Waste Water Treatment ● Textile processing uses great amount of water, particularly in the dyeing and finishing processes. Waste water is highly polluted with acid, base, starch and other chemicals. Many countries have waste water discharge regulations that require the textile industry to pre-treat waste before discharging it to the sewage system.

(b) Biodegradable versus Recycling ● Biodegradability - biodegradability reduces waste by breaking down materials through bacterial actions. ● Recycle - recycle uses material repetitively

27

(c) Lyocell and Tencel®

The Lyocell process

(d) Organic Cotton ● organic cotton refers to the cotton that is grown naturally without the usage of artificial fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides

(e) Bamboo Rayon ● viscose rayon is made by using wood pulps as raw material, bamboo is an alternative source of cellulose which reduces the use of tree

(f) Synthetic Fibres made from Resources other than Petroleum ● polylactic acid (PLA) fibre is a synthetic fibre made from fermented sugar extracted from corn or sugar beet

28