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Coming to America

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Coming to America COMING TO AMERICA APPROACHING DSQUARED2’S 20TH ANNIVERSARY, FOUNDERS DEAN AND DAN CATEN REFLECT ON THE LAST TWO DECADES AND TAKE AIM AT THE U.S. FOR ROUND II. ALL CLOTHING BY DSQUARED2 Photographed by MAURIZIO BAVUTTI Text by JOSHUA GLASS ESSENTIAL HOMME | 121 ot much of Milan spoke English in the ‘90s. We’d for the House of Versace at Susanne Bartsch’s Parisian go from our friend’s house—the only person in AIDS benefit, Love Ball, in 1989. Tangential, obviously, the city we knew, who let us sleep on the floor would be the Dsquared² empire, which turns 20 in 2015, Nof his attic—to the runway shows where we would lie and churns out ten collections a year for men, women, and say ‘We’re with Bergdorf Goodman, if you don’t let and children, not to mention a bar and restaurant, Ceresio us in then our manager is going to kill us and you first.’ 7, atop the twins’ headquarters in Milan. Yes, it would all Dashing inside, we’d beeline it to the center of the room come. It would just take time. just before the last countdown, and sit front row at every fashion show,” laughs a faultlessly fit Dean Caten, half-na- “We grew up with a single parent, our father, raising nine ked and inhaling the first puff off an oncoming parade children. Our mother left when we were six months old. of cigarettes. “We were basically con artists. Fabulous We didn’t really have a chance to be kids because we had nobodies!” shouts the other Caten, Dan, from across the to grow up quickly to help out, fix the house, etc. It was room. “We were for a while. But we knew that we were hard,” recalls Dan. “The weirdest part was that we loved going to be somebodies some day.” fashion, but because we were so poor, we could never have the things we wanted. Denim was a big deal, but Some 20 odd years since the days of back-to-back crash- our father wouldn’t let us wear it—jeans weren’t for poor ing sprees, we’re sipping coffee in the master bedroom kids—making us wear hideous polyester pants instead.” of a sunny hillside bungalow at the Chateau Marmont in But having less physical material to work with supplied Los Angeles. Sitting pretty between brazenly transparent the two more creativity. “Nothing comes for nothing,” a sliding glass doors and privacy-assured walls of tropical learned Dan reflects. “Because we wanted all the things foliage, the Mid-Century modern motif supplies a sharp we didn’t have…”—“we had a huge want,” shouts his setting (if not luxe contrast) to observe the two Canadi- brother—“…we were forced to do our own thing. It enabled an-born, London-living identical twins spit out tales fast- us to realize that we were different, that we could do different er than could ever be caught. Talking over each other in things, that we stood out, and that people just didn’t get it.” a playful, devil-and-angel-on-your-shoulder type of way, they arrive late but chatty as ever, of course, with paint- Those specific qualities that “people just didn’t get,” be stained faces and nails colored a darling shade of black— they dressing as mirror images of each other (and often somewhere between Chanel and Lauren Conrad—battle in clothes of the opposite sex), sharing the same bed wounds from the prior evening’s Halloween party at (never involving sex), befriending a displaced model on Matthew Morrison’s estate. the subway and taking her on as their first muse, or not eating for a week to purchase a Gaultier jacket, are what “We met [designer] Neil Barrett that way,” Dean lingers took the 19-year-olds from busboys at five star hotels to back to their glory days. “He came up to us at a party in co-designers at Ports International (today Ports 1961) Milan and said, ‘I don’t know who you guys are, or where in Toronto. “The first day we got there [founder Luke you came from, but I’ve seen you at every show and at Tanabe] said, ‘If you get coffee for us, you’re a help. If you the VIP of every party while I’m at the back. We need to turn the company upside down, you’re an ever bigger be friends.’” And eventually they would. But Barrett would one,’” remembers Dean. “Six months later we were on a just be an early recruit to the Catens’ magnetic tornado plane to Hong Kong, first class for the first time in our of glamourotti, eventually spiraling to draw forth every- lives. Instead of four years of education, we ended up with one from Janice Dickinson à la Xenon club kid days, to six. Everything was an amazing test and learning process.” Naomi Campbell, the star of the brothers’ first campaign for Dsquared² women’s and legendary Star 24/7 show After a lengthy term at the company and a change in opener, rock band Tokio Hotel’s lead singer Bill Kaulitz, ownership, in 1991 the next natural move for the broth- who kicked off and closed the brand’s Autumn/Winter ers was Europe. “In a club in Milan shortly after Ports, 2010 “Rocky Horror” themed catwalk, and even the I remember talking to a girl and she asked me what I late Gianni Versace—who never employed the two, as was doing and I told her, ‘oh, I’m here to become some- commonly insisted, but instead sponsored Dean and Dan body,’” says Dan. “That’s how focused we were on our with $200,000 worth of haute couture to appear in drag goal to succeed, and that’s why we moved to Milan.” ESSENTIAL HOMME | 123 Because we wanted all the things we didn’t have growing up, we were forced to do our own thing. It enabled us to realize that we were different, that we could do different things, that we stood out, and that people just didn’t get it. “New York was a bus ride away from Toronto—it was too moment for the both of them. “It was a huge a milestone,” easy. We could come home if we failed.” Dan agrees, “Our says Dan proudly. “We finally had our feet in the ground. dad taught us to swim by throwing us into the deep end. We were on the most famous fashion street in the world, Failure just wasn’t possible.” beside Versace and all those other big brands. We had bricks and walls. It felt like we were finally in the big league.” Despite being trained in womenswear, the two quickly recognized a void in clothes for men at the time. “There It is of that same fire that this season the company has was less competition and we wanted to make things had its biggest stateside push yet, welcoming a flagship for ourselves,” remembers Dan. This took the form of a to Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive this past September, along four-fabric, 30-piece capsule collection. “T-shirts that fit with a Bal Harbour, Fla. location set to open by the end just the right way—we always had to pin ours back—and of December and NYC early next year. “We’re trying to all the other essentials that every man needed.” When get the same feeling in America as we did in Milan,” Dean the showroom that had agreed to sell their merchandise admits. “We don’t feel like we’re anybodies here.” While rescinded its offer last minute, the brothers took their the passerby that immediately intercepts us in the lobby clothes to Paris. “It was a blessing in the end because they to praise the designer’s work—with the same candor that didn’t believe in it and we did,” says Dan. “We had a month any celebrity on MTV in the past decade would surely and a half, so we took photos, prepared a little catalogue, echo—quickly defeats his argument, it’s a commendable and set up a stand at a trade show in Paris, just the two of goal for the two Catens: why settle for one cake when you us.” At that point the only issue was recognition. “I had no can make two? As Dean was so quick to confess earlier idea who any of the mills were. The only thing I had was in the evening, “there is power in numbers,” a testimony the realization that if one of their stands was crowded, the that validates itself in more ways than one each day for vendor seemed good. It was basic human nature,” tells the brothers, who also turn 50 this winter. Dean. “So for us, our clothes were great, but we had trou- ble getting people to come by since no one knew who we Paired with their brand’s birthday, the Catens’ own were. I ended up inviting all my friends in Paris to come numeric landmark arrives with hushed rumors of a snow- hang outside our area to make it look busy.” The brothers capped celebration in Turin (“we’re taking snowboarding had half a million dollars in sales in three days. lessons right now,” Dan hints), a supersized presence in London, and a nonchalant “I’m pregnant,” half joke Dsquared² was officially born the following season, with uttered by Dean as he slides out another cigarette and the first menswear prêt-à-porter collection launching in offers a wink.
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