EXCLUSIVE clined comment. A reached forcommentbypresstime. officer atMalandrino,couldnotbe Malandrino’s books. lieved toincludesomeofthedebton not immediatelyavailable,butitisbe- Possible termsoftheacquisitionwere the purchaseagreementthisweek. Lawyers aresaidtobeworkingon completed withinthenexttwoweeks. the oddsareinfavorofa are faralongintheprocessandthat ket andfinancialsourcessaidthetwo could stillderailthetransaction,mar- Catherine Malandrinobrand. finalizing a To Tahari ELIE TAHARI IS“thisclose”to spokesmanforElieTahari de- TEXTILES: mass retailerTarget. some compensationlostinhismovefrom a Francis asitsnewpresident,andispayinghim RETAIL: fashion crowdpartiedawayintheCityofLight. Caten hadrisquéwaitersattheirsasthe ’s afterparty, whileDanandDean EYE: Sky Sticker ShockinTextiles fabrics, althoughdemandremainedhigh. increases ofupto50percentforfall2012 Vision andTexworld showsinParis sawprice Penney’s $12MMan signingbonusof$12million,whichincludes Bernard Aidan,chiefexecutive While HighinParis WWD Sky Ferreira tooktothestageat By Buy J.C.Penney hasrecruitedMichaelR. last-minute VICKIM.YOUNG  Visitors tothisseason’sPremière dealtoacquirethe TUESDAY, OCTOBER4,2011 PAGE 9 negotiations  PAGE 2 Nears dealbeing

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Malandrino ▲ PAGE 8 WWD

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baseballjacket. SPRING charming 2012

2 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2011 WWD.COM Penney’s Names Francis President Target’s Jason Wu Line in 2008, responsible for all marketing and advertising To Launch in February By DaviD Moin and Sharon EDElSon operations. Target spent $1.5 billion on advertising and marketing last year, up 12 percent from 2009, whereas TarGET SaiD MonDaY that Jason Wu will design a MichaEl r. FranciS is J.c. Penney’s $12 million man. Penney’s budget has exceeded $1 billion in recent years. limited edition collection for the mass retailer, confirm- That’s how much the former Target corp. executive Francis set the tone for Target’s advertising and ing a front page story in WWD Monday. vice president and chief marketing officer is getting as events, which could be irreverent, humorous, edgy and Jason Wu for Target will be a stand-alone de- a signing bonus to join J.c. Penney co. inc. as presi- clever. one of its most popular campaigns was “hello signer collection and will not be part of Go dent — plus a $1.2 million-a-year base salary and 1 mil- Goodbuy,” set to the Beatles song, “hello Goodbye,” with international, Target’s program for partnering with lion restricted stock units on nov. 16. The bonus covers graphic images of household products morphing into young designers, nor will it be part of Designer loss of benefits and compensation upon leaving Target. one another. Under his leadership, Target orchestrated collaborations, a separate program whose partici- Francis was critical in shaping Target’s mass-with- partnerships with Michael Graves, liberty of pants have included alexander McQueen, class aura and innovative marketing campaigns. and, most recently, Missoni. he had a strong hand in de- and . Francis, who starts his new job today, will be re- veloping the Missoni commercials, which were based on Jason Wu for Target will be available from Feb. 5 sponsible for Penney’s italian caper films from the through March 6 at most Target stores and on target. merchandising, marketing, Fifties and Sixties. Francis com. The collection will feature women’s apparel, planning and allocation, Michael was also involved in Target’s handbags and scarves, with prices ranging from $19.99 product development and R. Francis experiential marketing, to $59.99 for apparel and $19.99 to $49.99 for handbags sourcing functions. he will such as a 2005 vertical fash- and scarves. report to ron c. Johnson, ion show at 30 rockefeller Wu’s collection for Target embodies the designer’s who becomes Penney’s center in new York, where signature aesthetic of feminine sophistication with chief executive officer in models traversed the side of a mischievous nod to the Sixties. Target corp.’s se- november after heading up the building. nior vice president of apparel and accessories, Trish apple retail. Francis was also respon- adams, called Wu “one of the most influential design- The two are expected to sible for target.com, cor- ers of today. his talent for creating modern, yet femi- bring sweeping changes to porate strategy, corporate nine designs translated beautifully into an affordable Penney’s, which has been reputation management, collection…” striving to cast a younger, the Target Foundation, Wu’s color palette for Target includes navy, red, hipper fashion image with community relations, cor- beige and yellow. such merchandising as porate communications and Target, which had been dropping hints as to the Sephora, olsenboye by the events. in January, he also identity of the next designer collaboration through olsen twins and MnG by became the executive com- its TargetStyle account on Twitter, on Monday Mango, yet still lacks suffi- mittee sponsor of Target’s posted a video on YouTube titled, “ next Designer cient buzz. entrance into canada, the collaboration — Spring 2012.” Johnson and Francis’ ca- retailer’s first internation- The video, which seems to have been filmed in reers overlapped at Target al expansion. “in addition Wu’s studio, shows the designer sketching a look, for 15 years. While they to just moving stores into and reveals snippets of fabrics that will be used in didn’t work directly with canada, the idea was, how the collection, such as a bright yellow nubby fabric one another — Johnson do we extend our brand in- and a print of snowflakelike flowers on a black back- was a senior merchant and ternationally, and Michael ground. items in the video appear to be a black dress Francis was a senior mar- was in charge of our brand with a skinny nude belt and a white woven messen- keting executive — they de- internationally,” a Target ger bag with black trim. Wu is seen sketching a cap-

veloped a mutual respect, rf spokeswoman said. sleeve dress with peaked shoulders and a cinched Penney’s said. “This is a O “Michael Francis made waist; however, it couldn’t be learned whether than

tremendous opportunity for Nied Target cool when it wasn’t design made it into production. eve

me to get back to depart- T cool and he’s going to do the — S.e. ment store retail,” Francis S same at J.c. Penney,” said said. “i began my career les Berglass, founder of

working on the sales floor PHOTO BY Berglass + associates exec- of the State Street Marshall utive search firm. “Michael Vautrin Tapped CEO of Cerruti Field’s in chicago. it was Francis is a superstar.” there where my passion for retail began and my under- “Michael is very dynamic, very creative and PariS — cerruti has named catherine vautrin as chief standing of the power and potential of the department strategic. he’s always looking for new, risk-taking executive officer, succeeding Florent Perrichon. store was formed.” ideas,” said Minda Gralnek, former vice president/ cerruti said vautrin would by charged with positioning Johnson recently reached out to another executive creative director at Target, now a consultant, who the brand as a leading player in men’s wear and defining a he’s familiar with, Daniel Walker, the former chief tal- worked for Francis. global strategy to make it a top luxury label. ent officer at apple inc., who earlier worked at Gap “he’s an industry person with a track record who cerruti, which has struggled for several years under inc. and had his own search firm. Walker is now a con- also thinks outside the box,” added Jaimee Marshall, a revolving door of designers, was purchased last sultant to Penney’s, which raises speculation that the senior vice president, Kirk Palmer & associates. December by chinese men’s wear giant Trinity ltd., a Plano, Tex.-based department store chain might seek Given some changes at Target on the creative side, division of li & Fung. talent from the West coast, where Walker is based. including changing agencies to Wieden + Kennedy vautrin recently had her own consulting prac- Penney’s hasn’t had a president since June 2009 from Peterson Milla hooks, the timing seems right for tice in , in addition to sitting on the board of when Ken hicks, the former president and chief mer- a move by Francis. one source said Target’s market- e-tailer Yoox. chandising officer, left to become ceo of Foot locker ing focus has become less image and more product- Previously, she worked at lvMh Moët hennessy inc. Francis also helps fill the void left by Mike focused “to get down to the core customer.…The ad- louis vuitton — first at louis vuitton’s stores network Boylson, executive vice president and chief marketing vertising was bigger in-house before, now there’s more and then as director of the men’s and women’s ready-to- officer, who exited Penney’s in July. outsourcing. With Johnson joining Penney’s to reinvent wear division. Target did not name a successor to Francis, whose it, Francis might have found that appealing.” She was president and ceo of from 2000 role there grew significantly since he became evp of “Target’s changes may present a more homogenized to 2007. marketing in 2001. he became chief marketing officer marketing message,” said one retail expert. — Joelle DiDerich

toDay on WWD.CoM To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is SeCtorS in thiS iSSue [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ eYe: See Call: Tian Yi, the latest COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. financial 1,12 accessories 6 They Are Wearing: Paris and extra images VOLUME 202, NO. 70. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except retail 2 textiles 8 Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two from the Givenchy and Dsquared parties additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, fashion 2,4,5,7,11,12 PeoPle 10 at WWD.com/eye. which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief ■ rUnWaY: See the latest reviews, Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial backstage and front-row pictures from Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional Daily Quote mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax at WWD.com/runway. Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O .Box 503, ■ ViDeo: See video highlights from the RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR Paris shows at WWD.com/wwd-video. DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, Michael Francis made Target cool ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA ■ BUsiness: More earnings news and 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as when it wasn’t cool and he’s going to daily markets coverage at WWD.com/ printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or business-news. up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us do the same at J.C. Penney. Michael ■ GloBal BreaKinG neWs know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR Francis is a superstar. DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the Tian Yi request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or — Les BergLass, BergLass + associates. Page 2. via e-mail at [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe CorreCtion would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT The valentino boutique in new York is located at Madison avenue RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED and 65th Street. This was incorrect in a Fashion Scoop on MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND page 11, Thursday. valentino was the sole sponsor of a TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY luncheon there for a preview of the Museum of the city of REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER new York gala, which is sponsored by valentino and Graff. MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w04a002b.indd 1 10/3/11 7:26 PM 10032011192751 2:50 PM RUNWAYthe the 2:51 PM WORLD

instant gratifi cation Givenchy Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com for fashion obsessives 4 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2011

Stella McCartney Yves Saint Laurent COLLECTIONS 2012 PARIS SPRING

Yves Saint Laurent

Stella McCartney

It was a day for debuts — at Emanuel Ungaro and Chloé — and opulent flourishes tempered by simple shapes and PARIS: DAY SIX a focus on volume. Stella McCartney: As the official designer and cobalt blue. McCartney’s signature Stefano Pilati must contend. The show fabric called, coincidentally, Marrakesh. for the British teams competing in the men’s wear styles, meanwhile, looked goes on regardless of the encircling These determined a structured lineup upcoming London 2012 Olympic Games, brilliant in white bonded materials, a gossip whirl, and on Tuesday evening, into which the designer incorporated Stella McCartney is in a sporty state of clean-lined baseball jacket in particular. Pilati had a spring collection to stage. considerable volume, particularly in mind. A crisp fusion of performance, The second half of the show In some respects, it was lovely, with jackets that stood away from the body femininity and comfort invigorated introduced Charvet-like prints and elements of strength and lyricism, and interesting dresses and tops with her spring show, which opened and paisleys, shown on spare, tailored its essence rooted not in storyboard big sleeves seamed intricately for a closed with looking jumpsuits and easy men’s pajama shtick but in ideas about cut, color and billow effect in back. Often these played toned, tanned, healthy and happy — the looks that conveyed a sense of leisure. the essential updating of a revered against slim skirts cut with sexy godets. embodiment of the vitality projected by “Relax,” they seemed to say. The prints and highly recognizable code. Pilati There were also lean pants and shorts the clothes. were reworked on little day dresses, started as basically as possible: with fully pleated in front. Though much One of the main motifs was cresting mixed up on one look for a printed the weather. He began his research in of it felt quite chic, one came away curlicue embroideries that edged the take on colorblocking, with mesh insets chilly times and just couldn’t get into wanting more of something, whether the scalloped hems of miniskirts and the traced in curlicues. Shorter, tighter an easy-breezy mind-set. He started conviction of message that makes for the lapels on blazers. It offered a fresh, versions emerged for the finale: body- thinking about wintry colors for spring, strongest collections or merely of plain neo-Baroque element to the sportswear, hugging with sheer mesh panels down ultimately incorporating rich jewel old oomph. which was divided into tank dresses the side. They were sporty, sexy and tones into his palette, and then about Not so for evening, which went two and tailoring. The former, short and perfect for showing off a figure hard- his fabrics, feeling for the decorative but engaging ways — Bohemian casual with formfitting, looked like two dresses earned at the gym. not wanting to be mundane. Pilati thus pairings of white tops and long skirts layered together, a one-shoulder silk built the collection around two primary in an exotic print Pilati drew himself piece slung over sporty mesh. They came Yves Saint Laurent: Another season, fabrics, a tonal, textured jacquard with and high glam with a pair of crystal- in fresh combinations of white, black another round of rumors with which the look of sturdy lace and a gazarlike embroidered black gowns. WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2011 5

WWD.COM Chloé Chloé Emanuel Ungaro s

s Giambattista Valli

Emanuel Ungaro

For more reviews, see WWD.com/

runway. giannoni giovanni by photos

Chloé: Clare Waight Keller is one quick reappeared as sleeves on a crisp linen letting her take the bow less than a paillettes, pointed to a richer path for study. Knee-deep in heavy wools and dress with a shirttail hemline. Boyish month after the house parted ways with the Paris brand. raccoon fur last season when she was elements, part of the brand’s allure, British designer after a creative director at Pringle of Scotland, came in the form of roomy shorts and two-season collaboration. Giambattista Valli: The current fixation the British designer expressed Chloé’s trousers, and sheer dresses shaped like A Central Saint Martins graduate on midcentury couture bodes well for light-hearted, feminine spirit in a dungarees and worn over a tunic. with work experience at Giambattista Giambattista Valli, for whom the grand promising debut at the French house. Backstage before the show, Waight Valli and Balenciaga, the 29-year-old shapes and structure are a constant Her first wise move? Removing Keller said she wished to convey “a Labib-Lamour was among young talents obsession. Like last season, he scaled the roof on the sweltering tent in the sense of ease and femininity.” Mission the American executive discovered back on volume to focus on rich fabrics fabric called, coincidentally, Marrakesh. Tuileries Gardens, letting in natural accomplished. inside Ungaro’s walls. “She rose to the and decorative treatments used to These determined a structured lineup light and fresh air, underscoring the top, she took charge,” he enthused. conjure a rich, bohemian mood. into which the designer incorporated brand’s carefree, sunny disposition. Emanuel Ungaro: “Executive turmoil.” “She’s a team player and a natural Valli was wise to stick to simple considerable volume, particularly in And her research of the company’s “Revolving door of designers.” team leader. She’s the 21st-century silhouettes — straight, sleeveless jackets that stood away from the body archives also paid off, as she discovered Those are among the phrases Ungaro girl.” shifts were a mainstay — that offset and interesting dresses and tops with that , prized for his considered anathema to the stewards Leading a legendary couture name the opulence of cloque, brocade big sleeves seamed intricately for a prints during his Chloé days, also of Emanuel Ungaro, which has been is a task Labib-Lamour approached and Swarovski crystals, sometimes billow effect in back. Often these played used embroideries extensively. Waight wracked by dizzying change, including in a straightforward way, opening arranged as panels that combined for against slim skirts cut with sexy godets. Keller opted for hyper-realistic flowers a recent episode involving pasties and the show with a languid wrap blouse a patterned color-block effect. Colors There were also lean pants and shorts crawling up the sides of white pants Lindsay Lohan that they wish everyone and tapered trousers in vivid teal were kept warm and light with plenty fully pleated in front. Though much and shorts, or blooming all over a white would forget. watermark smudges. Most of the prints of , ivory, yellow and metallic gold. of it felt quite chic, one came away blouse. They worked like a charm. Which is why the collection paraded are based on aerial photographs Some looks were done in head-to-toe wanting more of something, whether the Pleats, a major trend in the European Monday at the Salle Wagram, once a taken by NASA, and were at times patterns, like blown out zebra stripes, conviction of message that makes for the shows, were a key element for the venue for boxing, was a smart step in the overwhelming. One, with loud splashes others were accessorized with golden strongest collections or merely of plain designer and gave the collection an right direction. While shy of a knockout, of red, worked best sparingly, as in a snake bracelets piled up the arms. old oomph. appealing swish and sweep. She opened it was faithful to the house codes — one-shouldered swimsuit. Then there were the real showpieces, Not so for evening, which went two with a series of long, flowing white with mostly measured doses of print Standout looks included a navy fuzzy fringed vests and skirts done engaging ways — Bohemian casual with dresses, the edges of pleats overdyed and draping — and an attitude that was and white halter dress with a pleated in graphic prints, a pinky ikat, for pairings of white tops and long skirts in café-au-lait brown or grass green, fresher and subtly sexy. peplum and a sleeveless red jersey example, which were clearly Valli’s in an exotic print Pilati drew himself producing a sunray effect. Before the show, Ungaro’s new jumpsuit gathered at the shoulders. springtime substitution for fur. They and high glam with a pair of crystal- Eyelet, which helped send Chloé chief executive Jeffry Aronsson named The finale looks, including a long were a clever top-off to the collection’s embroidered black gowns. to the stratosphere in the mid-Aughts, Jeanne Labib-Lamour chief designer, silver bustier dress dripping with gold Talitha Getty in Kathmandu moment.

w04a004(5)a;6.indd 2 10/3/11 7:23 PM 10032011192421 6 WWD tuesday, october 4, 2011 WWD.COM

Dior’s Art Project

By MILES SOCHA A selection of products from the line.

PARIS — Taking its longtime links to the art world to a new place, will today unveil a vivid accessories line in collaboration with German contem- porary art star Anselm Reyle. The range — spanning everything from wallets up to metallic leather handbags — is slated to arrive in select Dior boutiques worldwide on Jan. 9. But they will first make an appearance during the Art Basel Miami Beach fair. A Dior pop-up shop is slat- ed to open Nov. 28 in the Miami Design District for a three-week run. “It’s young and modern. There’s a lot of energy,” Delphine Arnault, deputy general manager at Dior, said Monday during an exclusive preview of the project at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s headquarters on the Avenue Montaigne, where products were installed amidst black lacquer shelving and colored mirrors. Visitors to today’s presentation in the build- ing’s courtyard will first pass video columns bearing Reyle’s camouflage patterns which, Arnault pointed out, go well with the colorful figures by Japanese art- ist Takashi Murakami that stand like sentinels in the window. “Art has always been at the center of Christian Dior’s life. We thought it would be great to continue the story and we chose an artist with a strong vision,” Arnault said, describing Reyle’s work as “joyful” in its use of vivid colors and shiny materials like foil. “Christian Dior, before becoming a visionary coutu- rier, was a gallerist,” she reminded. Reyle applied his aesthetic to existing models in the Dior accessories universe, rendering Lady Dior hand- bags in matte or metallic leathers and canvas totes in vivid prints with a metallic sheen. Throughout, Reyle tilted the house’s famous “cannage” pattern on a 30-de- gree angle, occasionally stitched in neon thread. Colorful bangles, chunky necklaces, sunglasses, scarves and a tight selection of footwear — including chunky platforms — complete the line. Retail prices range from about 190 euros, or $268 at current ex- change, for a bangle, up to 2,850 euros, or $4,018, for a Anselm metallic Lady Dior. Reyle with To the famous “C” and “D” charms that dangle from a metallic Dior leather goods, Reyle added shards of colorful Lady Dior. Perspex, telegraphing his penchant for found objects and industrial materials. “We left him very free on this project. It’s important to give freedom to artists,” said Arnault, echoing a sen- timent often expressed by her father, Bernard, chair- man and chief executive officer of the world’s biggest luxury goods group. “[Reyle] was very interested in working on objects that would follow women all day.” Extending the range to the beauty department, Dior developed five nail polishes and a limited-edition eye shadow palette with a mix of colors painstakingly set in camouflage patterns. Reyle, who is represented in New York by Larry Gagosian and in Europe by Almine Rech, told WWD it was his first time working with a fashion brand. “It was a challenge. At first I wasn’t sure about the result, but now I am happy,” he said. “In my work, I deal a lot with found objects, and influences beyond the traditional art context; for example, elements of sub- culture, architecture and design. That’s why I thought this project could make sense.” Reyle said he was struck by how a big company like Dior develops its products much like an artist does in his studio. “I am very curious to see ladies wearing the bags and other things on the street,” the Berlin-based artist mused, adding, “but I guess where I live I won’t see too many of them.”

w04a006a;5.indd 1 10/3/11 7:06 PM 10032011190719 WWD Tuesday, OcTOber 4, 2011 7 WWD.COM

Kenzo Kenzo: Humberto of a long red coat with zipper details, In her mainline collection, the designer Leon and Carol Lim while superwide jade taffeta pants with a contrasted linear dresses, including double- COLLECTIONS celebrated their first paper-bag waist added a glossy sheen. The layered designs featuring loose cagelike collection for Kenzo knowingly hip outfits probably missed the outer structures, with sculptural creations 2012 with a house party duo’s ambition of designing for “all different worked in linen shot through with Lurex. For PARIS featuring some of their types of bodies and ages,” as Leon said, but Kore, labeled as an ethically conscious line, SPRING famous friends. The they delivered enough of a jolt to successfully she merged her Grecian-inspired aesthetic colorful happening saw reposition Kenzo as a more accessible with bobbin lace produced by a cooperative guests mingling in the courtyard contemporary label. in Sri Lanka. Other elements included photo Kenzo: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim celebrated their first of the company’s Paris headquarters as prints of Greek statues on jersey dresses, collection for Kenzo with a house party featuring some of their models paraded in sporty outfits, many in Sophia Kokosalaki: Showing her first collection and a blue-and-white print inspired by famous friends. The colorful happening saw guests mingling in the primary shades inspired by the paintings in Paris since buying back her label, Greek Greek island life in the Sixties. Priced from courtyard of the company’s Paris headquarters as models paraded of Ellsworth Kelly. Chloé Sevigny, her hair designer Sophia Kokosalaki also unveiled 60 pounds, or $93.50 at current exchange, for in sporty outfits, many in primary shades inspired by the paintings dyed dark brown, showed off a cobalt taffeta a secondary line labeled Kore, produced in a jersey T-shirt to 495 pounds, or $770, for of Ellsworth Kelly. Chloé Sevigny, her hair dyed dark brown, boiler suit. “We went to upstate New York a collaboration with British online retailer lace dresses, the 40-piece collection will sell showed off a cobalt taffeta boiler suit. “We went to upstate New lot, so we really were inspired by this idea of Asos. She reacquired her brand from on Asos exclusively beginning January 2012. York a lot, so we really were inspired by this idea of wearing work wearing workwear,” explained Leon. chairman Renzo Rosso’s Only the Brave It is the first ready-to-wear launch under wear,” explained Leon. Wide-leg pants and silk shirts came in an holding company, but still heads the Diesel the e-tailer’s Asos Inc. program, which Wide-legged pants and silk shirts came in an oversize fishnet oversize fishnet motif in contrasting shades, Black Gold denim line for the group. helps emerging and established designers motif in contrasting shades, often used in clashing combinations, often used in clashing combinations, while “For my line, it’s just better if I do it my develop their businesses by introducing while a bird pattern on cream silk Bermuda shorts was formed a bird pattern on cream silk Bermuda shorts way in an atelier,” she said. “I have come new product lines. Starting next season, by clusters of little seashells. Rivets ran down pant legs and the was formed by clusters of little seashells. back very organized, with a different setup Kokosalaki will be able to wholesale the seams of a long red coat with zipper details, while superwide Rivets ran down pant legs and the seams and much, much more experience.” new line to other retailers. jade taffeta pants with a paper-bag waist added a glossy sheen. The knowingly hip outfits probably missed the duo’s ambition of designing for “all different types of bodies and ages,” as Leon said, but they delivered enough of a jolt to successfully reposition Kenzo as a more accessible contemporary label.

Sophia Kokosalaki

THE NEXT GENERATION aitre m ominique d

Giannoni and Giovanni IFTF.COM by Photos

w04a007a.indd 1 10/3/11 5:19 PM 10032011171956 8 WWD tuesday, october 4, 2011 textiles Higher Prices Match Mood at Fabric Fairs Serica malnati, which usually shows at By Katya Foreman Pv, had bumped up its offer of innovative and Devorah Lauter blends. the firm, which counts as clients Designs from Groupage by Tessilclub. Giorgio and , is look- ParIS — a heavy dose of sticker shock ing to sell in new areas like China and — with price hikes of up to 50 percent on elsewhere in asia and South america. coats. other items were made to imitate and Shetland over lambs wool “because fall-winter 2012-13 fabric collections — hit by the dramatic increase in wool an artisanal, cotton feel, with blends that it’s a bit more rugged, in line with what’s failed to dampen spirits at the recent edi- prices over the past year — a 33 percent included polyester and nylon. on the catwalk,” Walker added. tions of Première vision and texworld. hike to about $5.28 a pound — reid & Swiss weaver Schoeller presented Conroy nachtigall, a designer at mills cited brisk business despite the taylor’s less exclusive Indian branch in- technical suiting and outerwear fabrics Canadian men’s outdoor brand arc’teryx global economy’s ongoing malaise, with creased prices by 50 percent. around 10 suitable for riding a bicycle to work, in- equipment Inc., which is entering many turning to exports to buoy flat sales percent of the mill’s offer contained pure spired by mountaineering fabrics that and mr. Porter this in their home markets. wool, versus 30 percent last year. the stretch, breathe and repel water. season, agreed: “there’s this kind of raw Première vision and sister fair group said it planned to grow business lo- With demand growing for greener luxury trend where it looks more simple, expofil saw a 10 percent jump in visi- cally in India, as well as in the middle east products, texworld promoted eco-friend- raw, honest,” citing the thick sweaterlike tors compared with the equivalent ses- and Japan. ly manufacturers, such as taiwan’s Chia fabrics at Lanificio Becagli. sion last year, to 46,222. attendance at With business “still low” in the u.S., her. the firm’s expanded collection in- Designer alexandre Plokhov lauded texworld rose 4.5 percent to 15,424 visi- Japanese and Italian markets, taroni’s cluded recycled polyester and certified new Japanese linen weaver Premium tors, with a 12 percent increase in asian michele Canepa, who organic cotton. Linen by tamurakoma’s collection, not- and african attendees. showed at Pv, said: at the apparel ing “there were some unusual blends of Discussing the marked price increas- “We’re increasing Sourcing fair, was linen and cashmere or wool.” es on collections, erin Beatty, co-creative exports in all of the Key Trends spotlighted as a poten- Several premium weavers cited strong director of new york-based label Suno, smaller countries in tial new manufactur- business, with demand for heritage fab- said: “at this stage, we don’t quite know europe and eastern Women’s: ing hub for european rics and exclusivity. how we plan to manage it. you come to europe. We’re trying Pastels, graphic companies, thanks “those who want deluxe fabrics Première vision to find new things, so it’s to sell where we can.” contrasts, to a special sta- know that there is no substitute,” said very important to stay open-minded. We Canepa, who show- fluorescent touches Taroni’s tus that lifts cus- Pat Keeney, woven cloth designer for can always work with weavers to develop cased a striking range and technical printed silk toms fees for ex- Scottish woolens and cashmere weaver less expensive fabrics.” of digitally printed sportswear fabrics. design by ports to north Johnstons of elgin, which he said expe- martina traversi, commercial direc- silks designed by his Vitamin activewear- Maximilian america. rienced its busiest fair in “many years.” tor of tessilclub, which produces many son maximilian, re- inspired colors and Canepa. In terms of “Business is superb,” said martin of Lanvin’s fabrics, said, “We believe vealed that Kanye warm tones such as price categories, Wigglesworth, director of Scottish pre- that Chinese product is not only a poorer West recently paid a oranges. mills cited demand mium waxed and oiled cotton special- product but also a standard product.…We visit to his headquar- Double-faced fabrics, from clients for both ist halley Stevensons. “the crisis has really want to demonstrate that Italian ters in Italy. blends and checks. luxury and entry- impacted our business in a good way. research is superior.” “he was very nice, level collections. People want the real thing.” men’s: the launch of a younger, more afford- very hands-on. he “We’re look- novelties presented by the firm, Oversize patterns, An indigo able collection by the firm at Pv, under jumped on a fabric rugged fabrics and denim ing at lower, which expects to see a 60 percent in- the Groupage by tessilclub banner, got a we developed for tom tartan checks. check by middle, top crease in sales this year versus 2010, in- lot of attention. the line centers on clas- Ford that he wanted Reversible fabrics Halley end,” said Lee cluded an indigo denim check priced at sic fabrics with modern twists that are in his own colorways,” featuring different Stevensons. Walker, assis- 30 pounds (about $45) a meter. less expensive and slightly more casual Canepa said. “When colors. tant buyer on Firas Chamsi-Pasha, managing direc- than the house’s main collection. someone comes to Sophisticated takes formal men’s tor of moxon huddersfield, the historic “We thought it was the right moment to choose fabrics, you on traditional coating fabrics for next. hield-owned British mill specializing in launch a unique product that represents can tell straight away tweeds, such as silk and “We have this theory luxury worsted and woolen suiting fab- first and foremost quality Italian work- if they have good, re- wool or wool and cashmere blends of good, better, best rics, said the firm has a one-year waiting manship, but is affordable,” said traversi. fined taste, and he emulating speckled Donegal tweeds. across our range, so list for new customers. Domenico Spano, eve Corrigan, founder of malhia Kent, certainly did.” Unconventional colors, such as reds that every customer the legendary new york-based tailor, re- who proposed fabric “practically ready-to- aurelio rigamonti, and russet browns. can be serviced.” cently commissioned five suit lengths of wear,” like poncho-style chunky patterned general manager his team’s jacket- exclusive fabrics by the mill “that cost a knits with slits, said “We’re helping produc- at Italian weaver ing budget was up “and bundle,” Chamsi-Pasha said. ers stay in the u.S. and the e.u. all that’s Limonta, said this season the collection will continue to increase,” with the suiting French silk weaver Perrin & Fils, left for them to do is add a button.y ou don’t was staying competitive with a push for category also doing well, though the trou- which is 39 percent owned by hermès, need to go to China to construct this.” higher-quality finishing and exclusivity, ser business is tough. expects to register an 80 percent in- malhia was among several mills out to plus a larger selection of plastics to satisfy “I think it’s all shifted into casualwear crease in sales for 2011, coming off a innovate and offer cost-cutting solutions growing demand in that area. rigamonti cottons…the chino aspect of things has “complicated” couple of years, according in anticipation of restrained consumer combined century-old concepts and mate- taken over from denim and also is having to chief executive officer Jean-Laurent spending due to the euro debt crisis and rials with modern plastics to create softer, an impact on formal trousers,” said Walker. Perrin. the firm has just reentered the austerity measures, in addition to contin- lighter takes on traditional fabrics. one the next team placed a first time order u.S. market after a five-year hiatus, op- ued high costs of certain raw materials. cotton treated with polyurethane was in- at British heritage mill abraham moon & erating out of the new holding textile at texworld, the Italian silk weaver spired by 18th-century waxed whaler’s Sons, going for checks and herringbone, hermès headquarters in new york. PV Makes Bid for ModAmont ParIS — Première vision Sa has plc, which is listed on the London made a bid to take full control of Stock exchange. the modamont trade show, which modamont shows as part of the specializes in fashion accessories Première vision Pluriel group of and components. trade shows held biannually, in Première vision, which has held September and February, in Paris a 49 percent stake in modamont SaS nord villepinte. since 2007, said it plans to increase Première vision, which organizes its share in the tarsus France SaS- 22 trade shows each year in France, owned salon to 100 percent by the end Belgium, Brazil, China, russia and of this year. the u.S., specializes in salons geared a purchase option to tarsus to material and services for the fash- France SaS has been granted, but the ion and home industries. the com- aitre

acquisition must pass through various pany already owns the Première m Linen legal stages before being green-light- vision, Indigo and expofil salons, blends from ed, including winning the approval geared respectively to apparel fab-

Premium of the shareholders of tarsus’ parent rics, designs and yarns and fibers. Dominique Linen by Malhia Kent’s company, Dublin-based tarsus Group — K.F. by Tamurakoma. Eve Corrigan. Photos

w04a008a.indd 1 10/3/11 5:19 PM 10032011172111 ALL HANDS ON DECK: Spike Jonze and Solange Knowles were among the crew assembled to “work” the Kenzo show. WWD STYLE PAGE 11

Sky High Sky Ferreira moved from front- row fixture to above-house entertainment with a rooftop performance at Givenchy’s after party on Sunday. For more from Paris after hours, see page 10.

PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE

Terry play in one of the store’s windows. chaired by Tamara Mellon, the brand’s chief creative officer. MEMO PAD Richardson Model Liberty Ross and designer “I’ve long been an admirer of Nan’s honest and emo- and Lindsey Jeremy Scott were among those tional work and her ability to portray her subjects in a Wixson who took in a raucous after party way that is beautiful and raw,” said Mellon. “Because The FAMILY ALBUM: at a private club. “It is great to be Jimmy Choo Foundation benefits women and issues of launched his book “Mom & Dad” back in Paris,” said Scott, adding empowerment, it was impor- in Paris with a cocktail gathering he could relax now that his show tant for me to find a photogra- at Colette. “I have been told quite in New York is behind him. pher whose work was able to Jimmy a few times I look like dad,” noted — WWD STAFF convey not only the powerful Choo’s Richardson, standing next to a por- but also the sensitive and soft- new ad. trait of his father — the late fashion STEPHANE FEUGERE GOLDIN HEELS: Nan Goldin has shot er side of Jimmy Choo.” photographer Bob Richardson. the latest Jimmy Choo ad cam- The Icons shoes will be Along with his book, a plaid flan- paign, which is focused on Icons, a sold in Jimmy Choo stores nel shirt like the ones the younger PHOTOS BY capsule collection of 15 best-selling starting in November, and Richardson is known to wear is styles, some of which have been 10 percent of the net sales also being sold at a Terry pop-up shop in Colette through tweaked or updated. For the campaign, which launches will be funneled into the new Nov. 5. Other Terry paraphernalia on offer include next month, Goldin has gone earthy — and ethereal — foundation, which will raise T-shirts he designed in collaboration with Diesel. “They snapping a wistful looking model in a forest, alongside money for a variety of wom- are so cool,” enthused model Lindsey Wixson, while inspect- a stuffed peacock. The company will also launch next en’s charities. ing the dozens of cardboard cutouts of Richardson on dis- month The Jimmy Choo Foundation, a charitable trust — SAMANTHA CONTI 10 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2011 Flitting Between Fetes Benicio Del Toro

Dean and Dan Caten and with performers.

Liv Tyler, , and Frankie Rayder.

eye

THE FASHION PACK shoot with her younger sister The crowd at Givenchy was out in force at the for W magazine. included . Givenchy after party Across town at Sunday night. Guests the Dsquared party, such as Gisele Bündchen, designers Dean and Dan , Liv Tyler, Caten celebrated their Ne-Yo and Benicio Del Toro new Paris store opening packed into restaurant their own way. That and club L’Arc to also meant a party at the fete the 20th anniversary Ritz, complete with twin of Dazed and Confused acrobatic male pole magazine. “I arrived dancers and a dance two hours ago from routine by four smoky- ,” said Johan Joan eyed men wearing Lindeberg, designer and Smalls bellboy hats, sleeveless founder of label BLK shirts and skintight DNM. Having just opened black leather pants. “I a store in Stockholm, the love how this party is so designer said he plans personal to Dsquared. to launch a scent later this It’s hard to transform the Ne-Yo Gisele year. Sky Ferreira, who has Ritz, but this is so them,” Bündchen been a front-row fixture at said model Natasha Poly, the Paris shows, took to the pointing to balconies draped microphone and sang to a in green vines — and the pole vibrant crowd. dancers. Poly just finished A number of guests guest editing the November were flitting between edition of Spanish Vogue, an parties in Paris. experience that taught her “I am going to check “another side” of herself, and out Dsquared,” said Poppy the pressures of publishing. STEPHANE FEUGERE Delevingne, who had earlier — NATASHA MONTROSE in the day wrapped a photo AND DEVORAH LAUTER PHOTOS BY

her name to apparel, but the timing hasn’t been right. Danica’s New Ride “I would like to either do a joint line with a designer, or — my favorite idea — do my own line,” she says. “But that’s down DANICA PATRICK is a girly-girl, but up from 23rd place. It won’t be long, baseball and football in gym the road. I would have to give it that doesn’t stop her from kicking however, before she moves beyond the class, but if they want to do the right amount of effort, butt on the racetrack at 200 miles IndyCar circuit and races NASCAR something beyond that, choose the materials, an hour. The IndyCar driver, whose full-time. For the past two years, she’s it’s hard,” she says. “They the cuts, that’s what will racing career started with go-karts been racing in about a dozen NASCAR need to buy a go-kart make it a success.” when she was a child, has parlayed a events as well as the Indy series. But and find a track — that’s So for now, she’ll successful career in auto racing into after seven years focusing on Indy, she’s something that tends to stick with other a multifaceted business résumé, one ready for a change. be in your family.” designer’s wares. When that includes swimsuit model for Sports “It’s like starting over again,” she Her father raced she’s not in the public Illustrated, Tissot watch ambassador says, excited about the challenges of snowmobiles, midgets eye, she leans toward and GoDaddy.com spokeswoman. racing in the NASCAR Nationwide and motocross, she says, jeans, T-shirts and “There are two pretty different sides Series full time in 2012. so racing is in her blood. ballet flats or flip-flops, to me,” Patrick says while getting ready Patrick has had success in a sport But so is fashion. or BCBG dresses. For for a recent Glamour magazine event at where few women venture, but she Though Patrick is intent on more formal occasions, Barnard College.“I love to get clothes says the men she races against never racing for at least the next she prefers outfits with from stylists and get my hair and makeup say anything about her photo shoots several years, fashion design “unique lines and odd done. I really enjoy both parts and I’m or swimsuit glam shots. “I don’t know, could be in her future. Right angles.” Most recently, lucky to be able to drive race cars and maybe they feel awkward.” now, she has deals with Tissot she’s gravitated still get made up. It’s a win-win.” She also speculates that other for watches and William Rast Danica toward Alexander Patrick was in New York a few women don’t gravitate toward race car for sunglasses, but has decided Patrick McQueen and . days after her sixth-place finish at the driving because they aren’t exposed to against an apparel sponsor. “I like a unique GEORGE CHINSEE inaugural Baltimore Grand Prix race, it at a young age, as she was. She says fashion firms have look,” she says. — JEAN E. PALMIERI where she managed to battle her way “They grow up playing basketball, approached her about lending PHOTO BY WWD tuesday, october 4, 2011 11 WWD.COM

Julie Macklowe, Lauren Crocco exited as creative director of Remington Platt, Hilary the brand. Fashion scoops Rhoda and Shirin von Wulffen will co-host, WORKING CLASS: while guests are For their first HOT STUFF: Jessica Biel was looking a little met through mutual friends expected to include presentation at out of sorts at the Giambattista Valli in The Pines 25 years ago, are Jamie Tisch, Dayssi Olarte Kenzo, Opening show. “I’m very jet-lagged,” the actress, planning to exchange their de Kanavos, Jennifer Ceremony who has just finished filming the remake vows before a reverend in a Creel and Lauren founders Humberto of “Total Recall,” confided while taking private suite.) Remington Platt. Leon and Carol Lim in a little air in the entry hall of the Elizabeth Taylor is among got a little help jam-packed Couvent des Cordeliers. the notables who have called STUCK ON YOU: Starlets from their friends. “I’m going to take some time off now,” The Pierre home over the including Lou Lesage, Guests ambling she said. Meanwhile, never a hair out years, and both Barbara Walters Aïssa Maïga, Chan Ren through the label’s of place, Lee Radziwill was unphased by and Mary Tyler Moore chose and - headquarters, the stifling heat and the bustle around the Fifth Avenue address for Pourcheresse turned out a 17th-century her. Eyeing the illuminated runway, and their respective weddings. at Chloé on Monday. mansion done up another grill of lights above it, Harper’s Basso and Cominotto plan to Marie-Ange Casta said for the occasion Bazaar editor in chief Glenda Bailey put their own signature on Alexa she was following in bright pops of

noted: “I’ll be croque monsieur by the next month’s shindig. Basso Chung in her big sister color, discovered FEuGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTO end of this.” will sport a navy suit from FEuGERE STEPHANE BY PHOTO Laetitia’s footsteps in Jason Schwartzman Chloë Sevigny his favorite tailor Vahram more ways than one. hitting the drums, Lee Jessica Mateosian of Mr. Ned, and Cominotto “I have just signed with a cosmetics Chloë Sevigny walking the catwalk and Radziwill Biel will go with one from brand, but I can’t tell you which yet,” Spike Jonze playing video games with Julez, Black Label. Their event planner the model-turned-actress teased. Her the six-year-old son of Solange Knowles. pal Susan Holland will reimagine the first film, “Blind Valley,” opened on You wouldn’t have guessed from ballroom as a luxurious supper Sept. 21 in France, and a second, “Des looking at them, but they were all club, and another familiar face, vents contraires,” will hit screens in working. Schwartzman wrote the Connie Plaissay of Plaza Flowers, will December. Marina Vacth was tight-lipped soundtrack of the show, which sampled PHOTOS BY FRANCOIS GOIZE FRANCOIS PHOTOS BY handle the greenery. But there will about her next film project, but let slip Cyndi Lauper’s “Girls Just Want to Have be at least one surprise. Cominotto that her role involved learning German. Fun,” and was complemented by live is keeping Basso in the dark about “It’s scary but also very exciting,” she drums, cello and bass. Jonze was what Sylvia Weinstock is cooking up said. Alexa Chung reckoned she was ripe making a mini movie about the event, for a wedding cake. for a break after launching her second but not before killing some zombies collection for Madewell last month. with Julez, who was playing “Plants ORANGE YOU GLAD: Yves Saint The London “It” girl was sporting nails vs. Zombies” on the director’s phone. Laurent’s show in Paris Monday encrusted with green rhinestones. “A “You have to plant different things to night turned into an impromptu Japanese girl I know in New York did it, kill the zombies so they don’t come in cocktail party as guests including called Nomi, and it was to match with Salma Hayek, Emmanuelle Seigner, a Mary Katrantzou dress, but now it might Jared Leto, Mélanie Thierry, Alexa look a bit silly out of context. But I can’t Chung, Isabelle Huppert and Lou Doillon take it off. It’s like gel or something — ITALIAN CONNECTION: Tod’s brought a sipped Champagne in the courtyard of stuck,” she sighed. slice of Italy to Paris on Sunday night, the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild after unveiling the Tod’s Signature Collection dark. Elettra Wiedemann, in a black YSL COMING BACK: Doug Jakubowski is

at the Italian embassy. The site’s grand jumpsuit, said she had just returned returning to Perry Ellis. The Miami- DABROwSKI KuBA PHOTO BY façade was lit with projections of from a climbing trip in the Verdon Gorge based manufacturer said Monday that the French and Italian flags, as well with her fiancé,James Marshall. “I was Jakubowski is joining the company as the diamond-and-circles motif of hanging off a cliff 1,800 feet high, so it’s as chief merchandising officer for the the new luxury handbag line, which been a really good week,” she grinned. Perry Ellis brand. Most recently chief was showcased in glass podiums in Natalia Keery-Fisher, aka Natalia Kills, said merchandising officer for Kenneth the site’s salons. The house had also she had been hanging out with Dita Von Cole Productions, Jakubowski had commissioned a selection of textured Teese while in town to promote her album served as president of Perry Ellis from 3-D paintings by Italian artist Marcello Jori and shoot a music video. “I actually had 2003 to 2005 before joining Kenneth for the occasion, based on monuments of cocktails with her two nights ago and the Cole. In his new role, he will oversee Jason Schwartzman the world — including the Eiffel Tower, whole time, apart from talking about sex product strategy for the Perry Ellis bien sur. films, she mostly spoke to me about lipstick brand, from design and assortment your house,” he explained. Knowles was “Welcome to Italy,” said Tod’s SpA colors. She noticed I like orange and she to in-store merchandising. He will looking forward to DJing at the after chairman and chief executive officer had some cool neon orange ones,” she said. report to Oscar Feldenkreis, president party. “Tonight we’re getting dirty and Diego Della Valle, who was the host, as he Hafsia Herzi, fresh off the release of “House and chief operating officer of Perry grimy and playing some Gucci Mane and welcomed guests including Caroline Sieber, of Tolerance” — one of two movies she had Ellis International Inc. Last week, John TLC,” she said. Lee Radziwill, Tatiana Santo Domingo, Charlotte premiering at the Cannes film festival Casiraghi, Jessica Stam and Jade Jagger. this year — said she was working on her Mingling in the garden, actress Olivia first script, in the hope of becoming a Wilde, who had poured herself into a feature film director. vintage creation, said Kylie Minogue is busy combing she has just written and directed her through her archives and recording first short film called “Free Hugs,” which material in preparation for will be screened as part of the Glamour- celebrating her 25th anniversary in sponsored Reel Moments film festival music next year. “It’s fun, emotional For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. this fall. “It’s a comedy and a little bit and time-consuming,” she said. Her like ‘Bridesmaids,’” said Wilde. The favorite fashion moment, she said, actress will soon be promoting her sci-fi were the gold HotPants she wore in film “The Longest Week,” also starring the video for “Spinning Around,” . which famously cost 50 pence — less Spaces Jessica Stam, in a sparkling Balmain than a dollar. “It’s hard to choose, jacket, had jetted in from Mexico City there are so many for different after shooting for Mercedez-Benz. The reasons, but let’s just choose a golden COMMERCIAL model revealed she has plans to design a moment,” she said. Artist Cindy REAL ESTATE Merchandising Consultant ASSOCIATE DESIGNER women’s wear collection, but remained Sherman is also rooting through her Formerly V.P. of Merchandising for ast growing Junior Sportswear com- United Sweaters. Looking for full or panyF doing tops & dresses seeks an mum on the details. “I have been oeuvre for a major retrospective at part time. 917-687-5396. Associate Designer. Technical Knowl- modeling for 10 years and it’s incredible New York’s Museum of Modern Art edge a must. Please send resumes to [email protected] what I have learned from designers and opening in February. “Sometimes Showrooms & Lofts stylists,” she said. you think, ‘Oh, maybe it’s just time BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS SENIOR SPORTSWEAR DESIGNER André Saraiva, the graffiti artist and to quit,’ or, ‘What am I going to do Great ’New’ Office Space Avail This is a rare opportunity to join pres- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 tigious designer company BETSEY nightclub entrepreneur, who was next?’” she mused. “Sometimes I JOHNSON. Candidate must have a STUDIO TO SHARE minimum of 5-7 years experience. Cre- wearing a leather jacket he’s just prefer not to look back because I’d Fully equipped design studio and ative, hard working, organized and designed for Kitsuné, said he’s excited rather look toward the future, what workspace available to share. Midtown knowledge of garment construction es- location/Garment Center- $1750. Avail- sential. Illustrator, Excel and Photoshop about the opening of the London branch I’m going to do next, so I usually like able immediately. Call 347-403-9641 exp needed. Must be able to work with pattern makers as well as develop tech of his Le Baron nightclub next month at the most recent work the best.” packs for sample development. Please the Embassy, located on the city’s Old email resumes and 2 illustrations to: Burlington Street. ST. JOHN FOR CHILDREN: Fresh off its [email protected] sponsorship of New Yorkers for THEY DO: After 20 years together, Dennis Children’s fall gala last month, St. Basso and Michael Cominotto will be John is doubling down for the charity. married next month at what will be The The brand and creative director Pierre hotel’s first same-sex wedding in George Sharp will host a private its 81-year history. The designer and his luncheon to benefit the nonprofit, soon-to-be husband will welcome 300 which serves children and young (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] guests to a pre-Thanksgiving celebration adults in foster care, at its Fifth in the grand ballroom. (The couple, who Avenue boutique today. Marisa Brown,

w04a011a;9.indd 1 10/3/11 7:16 PM 10032011191750 12 WWD tuesday, october 4, 2011 WWD.COM Tahari Near Malandrino Deal

{Continued from page one} vestments in Alice + Olivia, Gryphon and Rag an investor since late last year, and in December & Bone. hired -based Sage LLC as its invest- Some say that Rosen’s growing investments ment banker. While Malandrino has had discus- might be spurring Tahari to make a few of his own. sions with several parties, for a while it looked Tahari tried to acquire upscale specialty retail like it might be acquired by Kellwood. Market chain Barneys New York in 2004, but was outbid reaction to the possible acquisition was favor- by The Jones Group Inc., then known as Jones able, given Kellwood’s operating expertise. Apparel Group, which Those discussions got serious in May, but talks paid $400 million. broke off about two months later. Since then he’s invest- Financial pressures following a retail ex- ed in the expansion of pansion in 2007 and 2008, shortly before con- the Tahari brand. sumer spending nosedived, have not helped Tahari last year Malandrino’s bottom line. Sources said that embarked on an ini- when Malandrino’s talks with Kellwood broke tiative to raise his down, the firm’s financial pressures helped firm’s global profile, open the door for a Tahari bid. which includes free- The Elie Tahari line does well in the bridge standing stores inter- market, and it occupies prime real estate space nationally, as well as at Saks’ Wear Now concept on the fourth floor shops-in-shop within of the retailer’s Manhattan flagship. The T key retail sites glob- Tahari line also does well in the better depart- ally. Tahari is also ments at retailers. growing its wholesale Tahari and former business partner Andrew presence in men’s Rosen co-founded Theory in 1997. In 2003, wear and the acces- the two sold the firm to Link International, sories businesses. Theory’s Japanese licensee, and Fast Retailing The hope is to Co. Ltd., the owner of the Uniqlo brand. Rosen reach $1 billion in retained 11 percent of the business, while revenue in the next Tahari sold his share. In 2005, Theory went few years. Wholesale public on the Tokyo Stock Exchange, and that volume for Tahari is spawned a lawsuit by Tahari against Rosen and more than $500 mil- others alleging breach of fiduciary duty and un- lion, which includes just enrichment, among other claims, in a state the Tahari ASL suit enteno

court action in New York. The majority of those business. Men’s is c claims were later dismissed. about 15 percent of alaya

Despite the legal battles, both the Theory total volume, mar- t and Tahari brands continue to do well on the ket sources said. Elie Tahari contemporary floors of department and special- Elie Tahari Ltd. ty stores, each carving out its own niche. last month inked a Rosen, along with John Howard of private multiyear licensing deal with Tandy Brands cott Rudd and s equity firm Irving Place Capital and 18 oth- Accessories Inc. for women’s belts.

ers, earlier this year took a stake in Proenza An acquisition of Malandrino, which has an by Schouler. The Rosen and Howard stakes were international presence, could further serve Catherine Malandrino for fall 2011.

personal investments. Rosen has similar in- those goals. photos

off the collections season on the second few weeks. We have a great deal of sup- Thursday in February and September. port from both international and domes- Show Calendar Battle Goes On Boselli claims the second Thursday rule tic media and retailers in retaining the was only for a three-year period, and dates agreement.” with New York or London. “They will not thus expires this year, while the CFDA A meeting was held on Friday between By LUISA ZARGANI under any circumstances abandon the and the British Fashion Council main- the CFDA and the British Fashion Council, London or New York shows if the tain it was a permanent pact. which Boselli was unable to attend. MILAN — A threatened shake-up of the shows are moved earlier,” he stated, According to Boselli, in 2012, this tim- Some Europeans suggest that Milan calendar is raising tensions voicing his belief that, “the best way to ing — especially in September — would and Paris could end up standing together on both sides of the Atlantic. It’s a po- avoid having a problem is to maintain the push Milan’s fashion week too late for on the issue of dates. An industry source tential clash that, if not resolved, could schedule as it is now.” production, or cause it to be “squeezed” said, “Paris and Milan are strong fashion wreak havoc on the already lengthy, jam- The current schedule has New York in between London and Paris. “After three capitals, and the axis between the two packed runway season. opening the season, followed by London, years, we should sit down and decide on continues to hold well.” As reported, Italian designers are dis- Milan and Paris, with no overlapping dates. the next three years, and we don’t under- But asked about the show date con- pleased with the plan of New York officials Boselli said Monday that “if New York stand why the CFDA has single-handedly troversy, Didier Grumbach, head of to start that city’s fashion week on Sept. 13 had not changed the dates unilaterally set the New York show dates later in the Chambre Syndicale, indicated he next year in order to avoid conflict with and without reason, there would never September next year,” he said. was more in favor of compromise than the Labor Day holiday in the U.S. The shift have been a problem.” Italian designers On Monday, CFDA president Steven confrontation — and that nothing can would put the shows essentially a week are regrouping to decide on the position- Kolb reiterated that the agreement be changed next year anyway. One of later than in recent years. The Italians ing of the Milan shows and a decision between the four cities was “perma- Paris’ main concerns, he said, is that contend the move is being forced on them will be reached “well before the end of nent. We can’t move the dates earlier in women’s ready-to-wear show weeks by the Council of Fashion Designers of the month.” September as they would interfere with don’t move any earlier as then it gets America and if Milan moves its dates later Boselli added that Italian design- Labor Day. It is not what we agreed to too close to couture. as a result, Italian designers won’t have ers are showing a united front, and are and it would be unfair if Milan moved “When planning our schedules we enough time to satisfy production needs. evaluating what is best for them. “We earlier. If Milan goes before New York, have to factor in the time constraints The Italians are regrouping to decide wouldn’t have reconsidered the show how will that work?” said Kolb, noting of houses such as Jean Paul Gaultier or on their own dates. dates, but since the equilibrium has been that the Italian city ideally wants to at- Givenchy that deliver couture, men’s The latest broadside in the calendar ruptured, we are reflecting and rethink- tract international editors, who would and women’s shows with one designer,” battle came from Condé Nast, which may ing the situation. Already we thought we not travel to Europe twice in a month. he said. “In any case, these things can’t go as far as skipping the Milan shows if were compromising and since New York “New York and the CFDA have always be improvised. We have our locations. its September dates next year conflict has decided to set its schedule without been approaching dates in a global way, To move dates on venues like the Grand with New York or London. In a letter ob- consulting us, we are thinking in terms of and we are open to ideas of partnership Palais cannot be improvised. Those dates tained by WWD and addressed to Mario what is best for us.” and collaboration,” added Kolb. are decided months and months in ad- Boselli, head of the Italian Chamber It is understood the Italian fash- “Steven is correct — the dates agree- vance. If [anyone wants to] move dates of Fashion, Condé Nast International ion body is evaluating three options: to ment was understood to be permanent,” for 2013, why not, we have the time to chairman Jonathan Newhouse wrote move to July; to show before New York in concurred Caroline Rush, ceo of the talk about it, to arrange it.” that Vogue editors “like the schedule September; or to leave things as they are, British Fashion Council. “London is un- Another source said this latest clash the way it is presently organized. We at which could mean Milan and London able to change its dates for September with the American association echoes an- Condé Nast do not want the schedule to would overlap. Several years ago, 2012 due to venue accessibility following other one with Vogue U.S. editor in chief be changed. We very much oppose mov- chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli the Olympic and Paralympic games in Anna Wintour, who was blamed by the ing the Milan shows earlier so that they was the first to suggest the Italians show London next year.” Italian media in early 2010 for compress- overlap or conflict with the London fash- both men’s and women’s in July — an She added, “Camera Nazionale della ing Milan’s fashion week to a four-day ion shows — or with the New York fash- idea that never found much support Moda and Chambre Syndicale have an- event for a few seasons. Italian designers ion shows or those of any market.” among editors and buyers. nounced dates for September 2012 that reconsidered the issue and in 2010 they Newhouse wrote that the editors of The disagreement over the calen- contravene the fashion week dates agree- extended the shows to run Sept. 22 to 28. Vogue, including those of the American, dar can be traced back to 2008, when ment of September 2008. We are in direct Boselli declined to comment on the Italian and French editions, will not at- the governing fashion organizations of discussion with our counterparts and Newhouse letter, but Kolb noted: “I think tend the Milan shows if there is a conflict the four fashion capitals agreed to kick hope to resolve the matter over the next it speaks for itself.”

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