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36 EDITOR’S LETTER 40 CONTRIBUTORS 46 COLUMNISTS on Indulgence 49 gIfT gUIDE: HOME CHIC HOME A room-by-room register of the season’s best presents. Photography by Martyn Thompson Produced and Styled by Jocelyne Beaudoin 156 STILL LIfE fran Lebowitz The New York wit shares a few of her favorite things. Photography by Ditte Isager Styling by Kim Ficaro

What’s News.

65 Spike Jonze and Humberto Leon Partner Up

68 Port Storms Winter Cocktails An Exhibition of Richard Avedon’s Women

70 Inside Herzog & de Meuron’s Miami Museum

72 Brit-Style Brasserie Opens in San Francisco Louis Vuitton’s Collection of Timeless Staples Poltrona Frau Boosts Designer Gastone Rinaldi

73 Sarah Morris Trains Her Artistic Eye on Rio Dolce & Gabbana Debuts Luxury Women’s Watches

74 Maria Pergay’s Steely Pieces at Design Miami Mezzo-Soprano Isabel Leonard Shines at the Met Ace Hotel Sets Up in L.A.’s United Artists Building

76 Linda Rodin on Her Cult Beauty Brand

78 The Appeal of Natural Wood Furniture Miuccia Prada’s Avant-Garde Furs Chicago’s Nico Osteria Masters Italian Seafood

80 Q&As With Three New Jewelry Talents

on the cover Penélope Cruz photographed by Alasdair McLellan. Styling by Anastasia Barbieri. Balmain jacket and De Beers earrings. thIS PAGe Christy Turlington photographed by Daniel 132 Jackson. Styling by Tiina Laakkonen. Calvin Klein Collection top and pants. For details see Sources, page 154.

1213_WSJ_TOC_01.indd 25 10/31/13 1:58 PM 10312013125922

144

124 100

Market report. the exchange. the holiday issue.

87 FRESH PRINTS 93 TRACKED: JAMES DYSON 108 BLACK IS THE NEW BLACK Spring ahead to a modern look The British inventor and industrial Carve out a chic new identity in with brightly patterned attire designer reinvents the familiar. sculptural eveningwear that puts and no-hassle hair and makeup. By Alicia Kirby the spotlight on compelling cuts. Photography by Ben Weller Photography by Ben Roberts Photography by Daniel Jackson Styling by Zara Zachrisson Styling by Alastair McKimm 98 FASHION’S BEST- KEPT SECRET 118 THE PENÉLOPE MYSTIQUE Studio Roscini is behind many The Hollywood star opens up about catwalk creations and Oscar gowns. parenthood and finding peace in By J.J. Martin her career. Photography by James Mollison By Howie Kahn Photography by Alasdair McLellan 100 BOARDWALK EMPIRE Styling by Anastasia Barbieri Danish restaurateur Claus Meyer expands his culinary domain. By Jay Cheshes Photography by Erik Olsson

THIS PAGE Clockwise from left: Tod’s President and CEO Diego Della Valle at the Colosseum; Victoire de Castellane, artistic director of Dior’s fine jewelry, in her office; a dish of smoked salmon, apples and smoked cheese from Almanak, a restaurant inside the Standard, Claus Meyer’s new business venture in Copenhagen.

GET WSJ. SATURDAY A Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style and culture. Includes OFF DUTY, a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and culture; and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www .subscribe.wsj .com/getweekend. Follow us on Twitter

and Instagram @WSJMag. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: LAWRENCE BECK; FRANÇOIS HALARD; ERIK OLSSON

108

49 138 holiday continued.

124 TO ROME, WITH LOVE 132 THREE TO TANGO 144 DIOR’S CROWN JEWEL Billionaire Diego Della Valle makes The trio of designers who filled Designer Victoire de Castellane history by funding the restoration Calvin Klein’s shoes have turned infuses the rarefied world of jewelry of Italy’s treasured Colosseum. the brand into a global juggernaut. with Technicolor gems. By J.J. Martin By Elisa Lipsky-Karasz By Joshua Levine Photography by Lawrence Beck Photography by Daniel Jackson Styling by François Halard Styling by Tiina Laakkonen 128 RHAPSODY IN JEWELS 148 HEMINGWAY’S HAVANA Gems in hues from pale azure to 138 WILD AT HEART Of all the places Ernest Hemingway deepest blue are enough to make Beverley McConnell’s lush New lived, none had such a hold on the anyone’s heart sing. Zealand garden reflects a half-century author as his home outside Havana. By Finn-Olaf Jones

Photography by Horacio Salinas of taming the landscape. EW INGALLS; MARTYN THOMPSON Fashion Editor David Thielebeule By Lindsey Taylor Photography by Gemma and Andrew Ingalls GEMMA & ANDR

THIS PAGE Clockwise from top left: Model Jessica Miller wearing a Céline dress and a Balenciaga necklace, photographed by Daniel Jackson and styled by Alastair McKimm; a terraced lawn in Beverley McConnell’s garden in New Zealand; a holiday meal includes treasures from our gift guide, clockwise from bottom, Canvas Dauville gold-glazed platter, J. & L. Lobmeyr glass, amber glass votive, John Derian for Astier de Villatte blue bowl, Georg Jensen silver nutcracker and bowl set, Armani Casa bowl, Aero fig glass dome, black Ryota Aoki plate, John Derian for Astier de Villatte marbled plate, Canvas Madrid gold

fork, panettone from Emporio Rulli and assorted chocolates from La Maison du Chocolat. For details see Sources, page 154. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DANIEL JACKSON; Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill

CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger

ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen

Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher

fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz publishEr Anthony Cenname global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold dEsign dirECtor Pierre Tardif businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts Andris brand dirECtor Jillian Maxwell photography dirECtor Jennifer Pastore Coordinator Molly Dahl

sEnior Editor Megan Conway ExECutivE ChairMan, nEws Corp Rupert Murdoch ChiEf ExECutivE, nEws Corp Robert Thomson MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber prEsidEnt, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMpany, publishEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Lex Fenwick fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker sEnior dEputy Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal MEn’s stylE Editor Tasha Green Michael W. Miller Editorial dirECtor, wsJ. wEEkEnd Ruth Altchek MarkEt Editor Preetma Singh ChiEf rEvEnuE offiCEr, thE wall strEEt Journal art dirECtor Tanya Moskowitz Trevor Fellows vp global MarkEting Nina Lawrence photo Editor Damian Prado hEad of digital advErtising and intEgration Romy Newman assoCiatE Editor Christopher Ross vp stratEgy and opErations Evan Chadakoff vp MultiMEdia salEs Christina Babbits, Copy ChiEf Minju Pak Elizabeth Brooks, Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, Etienne Katz, Mark Pope, Robert Welch produCtion dirECtor Scott White vp vErtiCal MarkEts Marti Gallardo vp ad sErviCEs Paul Cousineau rEsEarCh ChiEf John O’Connor vp intEgratEd MarkEting solutions Michal Shapira ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting Paul Tsigrikes Junior dEsignEr Dina Ravvin ExECutivE dirECtor, wsJ CustoM studios Randa Stephan dirECtor, EvEnts & proMotion Sara Shenasky assistant photo Editor Hope Brimelow CrEativE dirECtor Bret Hansen priCing and stratEgy ManagEr Verdell Walker Editorial assistant Raveena Parmar ad sErviCEs, MagazinEs ManagEr Elizabeth Bucceri

fashion assistants Katie Quinn Murphy, Sam Pape

wEb Editors Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh

Contributing Editors Alexa Brazilian, Michael Clerizo, WSJ. Issue 42, December 2013/January 2014, Copyright 2013, Kelly Crow, Celia Ellenberg, Jason Gay, Dow Jones and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction Jacqui Getty, Joshua Levine, J.J. Martin, in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Sarah Medford, Meenal Mistry, Anita Sarsidi WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not Contributing spECial proJECts dirECtor Andrea Oliveri available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, spECial thanks Tenzin Wild Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800- 843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.

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1213_WSJ_Masthead_02.indd 34 10/30/13 12:28 PM 10302013112857 editor’s letter WONDERFUL WINTER

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEJANDRO CARDENAS

HEAD CASE Anubis, in Moncler, and Bast, in Moncler Gamme Rouge and L.L. Bean boots, watch as little Who tries to cover up his mistake.

ITH THE END of the year fast approach - landed the first interview with all three of the brand’s reminder that, for plant lovers, spring is always just ing and Jack Frost chasing us indoors, leading designers—Francisco Costa, Italo Zucchelli around the corner. Speaking of beautiful things, don’t December is a month of reflection and Kevin Carrigan—and got the inside story on miss our six-page gift guide, bursting with ideas for and introspection, a perfect time to how they’ve maintained their predecessor’s legacy family and friends, from a luxurious Fendi mink-and- Wtake stock of the past in light of the future. Our across a diverse creative portfolio. And in perhaps fox-fur throw to a Russell Pinch desk. Maybe you’ll radiant cover star, Penélope Cruz, exemplifies this the most grandiose variation on this theme, our even find something just for yourself. We won’t tell. idea beautifully. At 39, and with 50 films under her feature on Tod’s president Diego Della Valle’s pains- belt, the Hollywood star reveals how she took greater taking restoration of Italy’s nearly two-millennia-old control of her career, and now increasingly focuses Colosseum highlights the immense ambition and on the part of her life that matters most: her two labor required to preserve historical monuments for young children. future generations. A similar evolution has been going on for the As anyone who has enjoyed a sip of holiday punch last decade at venerable fashion house Calvin Klein, can attest, December is also a month of sensual Kristina O’Neill following the exit of its namesake founder. Fashion pleasures. Feast your eyes on the riotous landscape [email protected] News and Features Director Elisa Lipsky-Karasz of Beverley McConnell’s New Zealand garden, a lush Instagram: kristina_oneill

36 wsj. magazine #progr Lo St to ﬁnd people hc sbad is which CO pa fraction a pa co Fo epmk hi da a ideas their make help re r st. kn,tog.Diigaround Driving though. rking, rt Angeles s aei practical it make 2 ove et ee ihte,cr them, with nered msin.Adi they if And emissions. As ie n.hsde has Inc. line, r es a 20 smakers re of 0 pa sult, Co htnumber that fo ye kn spac rking loca r nyhas unty ar St s, re to iisjbhsbeen has job Citi’s busine l tieis etline ve adopt. ea oe a loped re es ove alit of iga ting ca ihafe app. free a with r sses pa y. n’ St 7. ex n pt rsrtddiesle drivers frustrated spot, a ﬁnd t kn spac rking million 4 re so panding ca to . et uin— lution hifso that infusion sh look line to ’s fo re to idea es belie space a r te gis iisaon h globe the around cities Bu . hooyta helps that chnology Th te wa iisne funding need cities t ve su s’ simply isn’t issue e re s npol and people in d so re ca ca duc inno rs incr n u only but , es va up-front ea tiv se e, to av Citi . e,

ANAStASiA bArbieri & AlASdAir mclellAN the penÉlope mystique p. 118

For this issue’s cover story, WSJ. contributors and frequent collaborators Alasdair McLellan and stylist Anastasia Barbieri captured silver-screen siren Penélope Cruz on location in a suburb of London. “I wanted to showcase her natural beauty. We used barely any makeup,” Barbieri says. “She is a classic Mediterranean beauty. Very sweet and very feminine.” Taking advantage of natural light to emphasize Cruz’s flawless features, McLellan played his iPod for the duration of the shoot and found common ground with Cruz. “A Rick Astley song came on,” the photographer says, “and I was thinking this could go either way, because Rick isn’t a ‘cool’ singer. But Penélope was a fan! She said his songs reminded her of her teenage years.” r av e.

FINN-OLAF JONES hemingway’s haVana p. 148

An obsession with all things Hemingway has been a way of life for writer Finn-Olaf Jones, whose father was a prominent scholar of the celebrated author. “I grew up with all sorts of Hemingway artifacts around our house,” he explains. “We even had the infamous ‘Dear John’ letter from the nurse who became the model for the heroine in A Farewell to Arms.” Jones has visited all of Hemingway’s homes over the years, but Finca Vigía, just outside Havana, remains his staunch favorite. “You can really feel his presence there. When you walk in, it feels as though he just left.” Urth row, from left: erIk olsson, sherI de borchG nas. fo

ERIk OLSSON & JAY CHESHES Io salI boardwalk empire p. 100

In the week prior to the unveiling of Claus Meyer’s latest venture—The Standard,

in Copenhagen—writer Jay Cheshes, on hand to document the Danish restaurateur’s rtesy of horac frenetic preparations, witnessed the extent of Meyer’s celebrity. “Men and women were stopping him on the street, and they weren’t shy,” says Cheshes (near left). “They gave him feedback. He was open to it, very much a man of the people.” Photographer Erik Olsson shot Meyer just hours before the grand opening, a task that played out like a game of badminton. “When Claus arrived for the shoot there were people and chefs that kept him busy with urgent questions and things to solve,” says Olsson. In jones. thIrd row: coU

“It was a constant back and forth. I would adjust something with the camera settings, st look down for a second, and the next thing I knew he was gone!” UIGI macor. second row: krI

HORACIO SALINAS erl rhapsody in jewels p. 128

This month’s fine jewelry story features radiant gems enveloped in swirls of smoke—a seductive effect achieved in an unconventional way by still-life photographer Horacio Salinas. “I bought just one pack of cigarettes and started smoking—smoking and clicking,” the photographer explains. “It was quite difficult, as I’m not a smoker. I felt sick for the rest of the day.” Inspired by an icy palette of season-appropriate blues, Salinas says, “There was something special about the smoke, which looks kind of bluish; it connected with the stones.” top row, from left: lex kembery; pI

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1213_WSJ_Contribs_01.indd 40 10/31/13 2:26 PM 10312013132724 Approved with warnings MARTYN THOMPSON & jOcelYNe BeAudOiN home chic home p. 49

For this December’s gift guide, photographer Martyn Thompson and set-stylist LIFE IN EVERY PIXEL. Jocelyne Beaudoin chose a cozy, wintery setting to showcase the season’s finest bits and baubles. Using a Brooklyn townhouse as scenery, Beaudoin sifted through hundreds of items for the perfect eclectic mix. “I was trying to include not just objects but books and photographs, so that it would have a little more weight to it. I wanted to have texture.” Thompson sought to create a feeling of familiarity in the photographs, explaining, “I think the best images have a believability. They feel easy and comfortable and like they exist in real life.” Of the many objects, Beaudoin had a clear favorite: “This bowl by Ilse Crawford, a very plain brass bowl. It was just gorgeous.”

LAWRENCE BECK to rome, with love p. 124

Although landscape photographer Lawrence Beck is an old hand at capturing expansive vistas, incorporating portraiture—as he did with Diego Della Valle against the backdrop of Rome’s Colosseum—proved an exciting new challenge. “The Colosseum is within my realm of expertise in terms of photography,” Beck explains. “But I really enjoyed shooting Diego too—he made it a lot fun, and he was generous with his time.” Beck found that his two subjects complemented one another: “Diego has a real presence as a person; he definitely has an aura that is larger than life. That’s why he was able to withstand the feeling you get being dwarfed by the Colosseum.”

LINDSEY TAYLOR wild at heart p. 138

When writer Lindsey Taylor interviewed New Zealand’s grande dame of gardening, Beverley McConnell, she was charmed by her warmth and inclusiveness. “Bev is one of those people who lets you in; there’s nothing cagey or exclusive about her,” says Taylor, who found McConnell’s good nature to be reflected in her work. “Her garden is to be shared. It is a place formed out of passion, curiosity and a sense of wonder. Her energy inspires you to think you can go home and start digging to make your own version of Ayrlies.”

DANIEL JACKSON three to tango p. 132 | black is the new black p. 108

Regular WSJ. contributor Daniel Jackson photographed not one but two features in this Make a bold statement with the Samsung OLED TV. Its timeless curved design draws you right into month’s issue, lending both shoots his signature minimalistic touch. For “Three to Tango,” the action with beauty. This unprecedented leap forward in picture quality technology gives you Jackson captured Calvin Klein Inc.’s top designers—Francisco Costa, Italo Zucchelli and incredibly vibrant colors, while the crisp image creates virtually blur-free TV. Equal parts innovation Kevin Carrigan—at New York’s Chelsea Pier studio, alongside the house’s most iconic muse, and work of art, the Samsung OLED TV redefines the way entertainment should look. model Christy Turlington. Putting a fresh spin on holiday attire, Jackson also shot “Black Is the New Black,” with Jessica Miller modeling the season’s sharpest eveningwear looks. top row: corey shutter. second row: jean pierre ritler. third row: courtesy of lindsey taylor. fourth row: courtesy of daniel jackson.

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Move into a New World m co n. to ins

soapbox yw rr ha c. In , on nst

THE COLUMNISTS Wi y rr

WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Indulgence. Ha 3 01 ©2

DONATELLA FERGUS LYNN JULIAN MARY J. JAY VERSACE HENDERSON TILTON FELLOWES BLIGE McINERNEY

“Versace will never be “Lunch makes sense to “My façade may reflect “Cold weather is always “I have a thing for Lorna “The interesting thing minimalist. Versace is me as an indulgence. It’s a kind of indulgence, a good background for Doone cookies, a kind of about indulgences is about ‘more.’ That’s the a magical time. With but I’m really quite bor- stuffing yourself with love affair going on with that they ultimately way we’ve been from the lunch, you have the ing beneath. I have food. In the old days, them. Even if I’m full, I become flabby without beginning, that’s the way potential of the afternoon a magnificent wardrobe, houses were very cold need to have at least five a certain degree of abne- we’ll always be—more, and what might hap- for example, and I do compared to the way we Lorna Doone cookies, gation. I quit drinking more, more. Our custom- pen, whereas supper is love wearing beautiful live now, no matter how which is not cool, but for the month of August, ers are attracted to us like a punctuation mark. clothes when I’m out in well-off people were. I’ve got to have them. traditionally a month because they know that Eat it, you’re full, go to public. But the clothes They couldn’t stroll And I don’t even want of fairly solid indulgence. from Versace they will sleep. The more people are my armor, my uni- around inside in a to go into ice cream. Me It really heightened my gain the greatest indul- see it as indulgence, form, not my indulgence. T-shirt and jeans in the and ice cream, we have a appreciation: I enjoyed gence. Of course, it takes the more I want to have We build ourselves and middle of December thing too. It’s important that first glass of wine hard work and dedica- lunch. It makes it more make ourselves recog- because they’d freeze to to reward yourself. There in September about tion behind the scenes delicious somehow, to nizable as images. Part death. The feasting, the have been times when as much as I can ever to make this maximalism have people frowning on of being a strong woman roaring fire, the mulled I’ve had no vacation, remember appreciating look effortless. There’s your long lunch. But it is in a man’s world is to wine, the hot roast were just working, working, a glass of wine. As some- no room for indulgence possible to overindulge. have an identity, and it all ways of combatting working, but you’re not one who’s been raised a in the design process. I once visited my sister just turns out that my that. A summer feast actually making any real devout Catholic, I find the Every single piece has in Barcelona, arriving looks and clothes have is a lighter thing: cold progress because you’re shadow of guilt always to work, or it has no place on a Friday morning. We become part of that salmon, mayonnaise, not taking care of your- adds piquancy to any in the collection. There proceeded to have four identity. But if I were a salad. It’s charming self, not giving yourself indulgence. It’s almost are certain elements that lunches—that set the not working, I would but there’s not quite the a break to regenerate. more pleasurable, feeling will always be part of tone for the whole week- not be out buying a lot same sense of vice that People tell me my music slightly guilty. William Versace. We will always end. By Sunday, I woke up of clothes—I’d be in soft a really good feed in the acts as an indulgence for Blake famously said the show glamorous gowns. and thought, I’m going to T-shirts, sweatpants and winter gives you. I’m them, like food for the road of excess leads to Our models will always die. I had a simple salad boat shoes. My indul- one of those people who soul—they say, ‘I need the palace of wisdom, wear high heels. But of roasted tomatoes and gence is getting out of loves the Christmas Mary right now; this but I think it’s more likely these aren’t indulgences. little gem lettuce, and I being zipped into some- menu. I want to have Mary song is hitting the that creative people They are part of our DNA. lived. That salad has been thing tight and wearing the turkey, roast pota- spot.’ My song ‘Just Fine’ tend to have excessive Indulgence depends on close to my heart ever six-inch heels. With 75 toes, sprouts, stuffing, celebrates indulgence personalities, rather the individual woman, since. As cures for over- companies and 120,000 wine and good cham- because at the end of than that excessive her lifestyle, her dreams. indulgence go, not much employees, my solace pagne—all of it. I’m the day, everything is all behavior being a useful For some, a bottle of beats the digestif Fernet is to be alone in one of afraid it’s a big weight right, it’s just fine. And aid to creativity. I recall perfume is enough; for Branca. It’s a miracle. my homes, enveloped by putter-onner, and since ‘Family Affair’ is straight- Truman Capote telling WINSTON™ CLUSTER WREATH NECKLACE others, it is an Atelier But the danger is the beauty and quiet, curled I’m already as fat as a up indulgence—it’s all me about the wonders Versace gown. My goal cure becomes the cause. up in bed with a glass barrel, I almost dread about fun. Everything of cocaine as a writing is to provide indulgence You return to Fernet’s of red wine and a good the coming of the season, can’t be serious, you’ve aid. I think Capote’s later to all women, whatever powers too readily.” book or the remote.” for I know I will be able got to have balance.” career tells us all we need their desires.” to resist none of it.” to know about that.”

Versace is the artistic Henderson is a chef and the Tilton is the founder and Fellowes is the creator of Blige is a singer-songwriter. McInerney is a novelist who director and vice-president founder of the acclaimed CEO of the private-equity Downton Abbey, which airs She recently released the holiday also writes a wine column for of the Versace Group. restaurant St. John, in London. firm Patriarch Partners. on Masterpiece on PBS. album A Mary Christmas. The Wall Street Journal. NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS LAS VEGAS CHICAGO BAL HARBOUR COSTA MESA DALLAS HONOLULU 800 988 4110 46 wsj. magazine keepsakes gift guide. december 2013 / january 2014

HOME CHIC HOME From foyer to boudoir, a room-by-room register of the season’s best presents.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARTYN THOMPSON PRODUCED AND STYLED BY JOCELYNE BEAUDOIN

MAKE AN ENTRANCE A welcoming hallway is lined with look-again curios alongside personal mementos. From left: Lithero blueware vase, Puiforcat Ruban silver tray, Creel and Gow black ceramic pear, Tod’s leather wallet, Z Zegna cuff links, Nymphenburg porcelain weasel figurine, Ralph Lauren RL67 Tourbillon watch, first edition of The End of the Game by Peter H. Beard, inscribed first edition of Passage by Irving Penn, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. crystal teardrop carafe, Puiforcat Etchea Art Deco silver box and Tozai shagreen octopus candle holder. Flowers throughout by Nicolette Camille Floral. Moët & Chandon® Champagne, © 2013 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, N.Y. Celebrate Responsibly.

wsj. magazine 49 gift guide keepsakes TIMEWALKER VOYAGER UTC SPECIAL EDITION

bedside manner An intimate bedroom mixes textures like linen, crochet and fur. On bed, clockwise from bottom: Libeco plaid linen blanket, Fendi Casa mink and fox-fur throw, Oscar de la Renta black and crystal pavé resin necklace, Libeco Napoli Vintage linen bedspread and pillows, Cezanne’s Shadow tapestry pillow Wherever the journey takes you, the second time zone synchronized and Fortuny quilted pillow. with Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) lets you keep track of all On dresser, from left: Yves Saint Laurent Rouge your global interests. Automatic movement. Second time zone Pur Couture lipstick, J. & L. Lobmeyr Alpha water with 24-hour display and day/night indication. 42 mm stainless-steel tumbler, Pierre Favresse case with satin-finished bezel. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture ribbed-glass light, J. & L. Lobmeyr water pitcher, in Le Locle, Switzerland. Carl Aubock ashtray, Prada leather earrings, Ryota Aoki pot de lait and porcelain pitcher, Carl Aubock brass bowl and Lanvin evening clutch. On floor, from top: Detroit 1968 by Enrico Natali, A Sporting Life by Jacques Henri Lartigue, Dante’s Inferno illustrated by Gustave Doré, Burberry pumps and Orley Shabahang summit rug. MONTBLANC.COM

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Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels kitchen cOnfidential A sumptuous spread completes any canteen. On table, from left: Libeco Napoli Vintage table cloth, Thomas O’Brien for Reed & Barton cake stand, Lady M cake, Amoretti Brothers nickel- plated vase, Georg Jensen Forma cheese board and knife, cheese selection from Cavaniola’s Gourmet, John Derian for Astier de Villatte clubs vase, vintage Carl Harry Stalhane for Rorstrand stoneware Since 1939,Van Cleef & Arpels bowl, Carl Aubock brass nutcracker, Armani Casa ginger bowl, John Derian has been enchanting New York City. for Astier de Villatte fish plate, Landbrot Bakery & Bar cakes, Josef Hoffmann wine decanter, vintage lava The magic continues with the unveiling ceramic bowl, Fox Hollow Farm pears and Ryota of the redesigned New York flagship. Aoki pot de lait. On wall, from top: Floral-patterned ceramic plate and François Halard photograph. On mantle: Armani Casa vase.

52 wsj. magazine Haute Joaillerie, place Vendôme since 1906

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private lives An ideal washroom boasts treasures alongside necessities. On wall: Dragonflies by Nicolaas Struyck. On roche Bobois pedestal table, from left: Jo Malone saffron cologne, Chanel No. 5 limited- edition intense bath oil, Byredo Mister Marvelous Eau de Parfum, Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and white mother-of-pearl clip, Creel and Gow Cardium on Seahorses sterling- silver mount, Van Cleef & Arpels diamond, garnet, tourmaline and onyx earrings, Colle It Vaso Grande crystal vase, Nars nail polish and Cartier white gold, black lacquer and diamond ring. On stack of books, from left: William Yeoward Crystal Freddie old-fashion tumbler, Mikimoto cultured pearl a sporting life necklace, Diorific limited- edition lipstick and nail polish, Nars nail polish, Alastair Cook, English National Cricketer & Team Captain Guerlain bee bottle and porcelain picnic tray. On floor: Roger Vivier black satin and gold sequin slippers. On bathtub: 2 Sav i le Row, London Sferra bath towel. 816 Madison Avenue, New York kentandcurwen.us.com 56 wsj. magazine

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TOasT OF The TOWn A well-appointed bar is rounded out with covetable artworks and collectible glassware. On wall: Reproduction photograph by Sheila Metzner/Trunk Archive. On photo: Dove Drury-Hornbuckle ceramic jewelry. On dresser, from left: Ilse Crawford brass bowl, Texan pecans, Tiffany & Co. crystal decanter, Michael Kramer hand-blown multicolor tumblers, William Yeoward Vita crystal highball tumblers and Kelly shaker, Ilse Crawford candleholder, Remy Martin Louis XIII rare cask 42, Hans Reisetbauer Cherry Eau-de-Vie, J. & L. Lobmeyr alpha water tumblers, ’08 Marc Hebrart champagne, Georg Jensen sterling- silver pitcher, Canvas Dauville gold-glazed bowl, Tiffany & Co. sterling- silver jigger and cocktail shaker, Joe Cariati hand- blown glass decanters in purple and gray and Navarre Cognac Grande champagne.

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studied nOnchalance A dynamic office balances work with playfulness. On wall: Reproduction photograph by Torkil Gudnason/Trunk Archive. On russell pinch desk, from left: Raven bookends, first-edition set of the Rabbit Angstrom tetralogy by John Updike, Tozai striped wooden picture frame, Robert Lewis totem lamp, Louis Vuitton wallet, Coach braided leather carabiner, John Derian for Astier de Villatte eye mug, Leica Ralph Gibson signature-edition camera, Tom Dixon sugar bowl and jug, Alessi Mami saucer, Canvas gold fork, Bernardaud cup and saucer, Coach leather notebook, Acme Studio gold pen and Omega watch. On floor, from left: Louis Vuitton PDV bag, Brioni calfskin leather shoe and JP Tod’s green-leather wing tips.

For details see Sources, page 154.

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1213_WSJ_GiftGuide_03.indd 60 10/30/13 4:42 PM 10302013154309 Advertisement Only at NM EVENTS

WSJ. FIVE nEW York | 9.5.13 To fête five years of WSJ. Magazine, Photos by Billy Farrell/Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com The Wall Street Journal hosted celebrations coinciding with Fashion Week and the debut of the Men’s Style issue. The Four Seasons Restaurant, Claridge’s and the SoHo House West Hollywood provided the backdrops for the festivities. Inspired by his world travels, our Fashion Director curated this exclusive collection of 37 fabulous gifts. And in the spirit of giving, ten percent of the proceeds from The Ken Downing Gift Collection will benefit The Heart of Neiman Marcus Foundation— dedicated to supporting arts education in communities across the country. Kati Nescher, Terry Richardson, Constance Jablonski

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© 2013 Dow Jones & Company, InC. all RIghts ReseRveD. 6ao1363 *Free shipping for purchases and returns on most items. Taxes apply to some orders. For a small percentage of items, such as oversized items, items shipped from vendors, or shipments Follow us @WSJnoted outside of the United States, delivery and processing charges may apply. For complete delivery, shipping, return, and exchange details, including cost and delivery time, visit NeimanMarcus.com. the world of culture & style what’s news. december 2013 / january 2014

AARON YOUNG PARIS 2013

partnership wonder kids Indie film auteur Spike Jonze and style savant Humberto Leon join forces for Jonze’s new futuristic Located at the Four Seasons Hotel romance, Her—and the clothing collection it inspired for Leon’s trendsetting boutique. 57th Street entrance New York, NY 10022 BY stinson carter photographY BY Jesse chehak Tel. (+1) 212.207.4028 zilli.fr the ﬁnest garment for men in the world wsj. magazine 65

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“WHEN I HAVE AN IDEA AND IT’S REALLY EARLY ON, IT’S IMPORTANT TO BOUNCE IT OFF PEOPLE I TRUST.” –SPIKE JONZE

SJ: If you’re new to the class, you’re in the back row. There was one point when we weren’t literally the last people in the last row, but only because some people came in after us. HL: Every kung fu lesson, I would get this new mini-chapter. SJ: Humberto’s comments are all about story and character: “Why did she do that” and “it would be interesting if she had this response.” When I was writing, mostly what we talked about was this love story and the complexity of romantic relationships. HL: We would talk about Samantha and Theodore [Johansson and Phoenix’s characters] as if they were two people falling in love.

WSJ: Spike, did Humberto’s perspective affect the way IMAGES TRAILL/INVISION/AP DONALD you created the world of the film? SJ: Being around Humberto over the years, I’ve started to think about clothes and style more, and I started thinking that the wardrobe should be slightly futuristic. HL: I think one of the things that first came to mind was FILM & FASHION Clockwise from top: Joaquin Phoenix in Her; an iPhone-ready shirt from Leon’s Her-inspired Opening changing the proportions, because that usually signi- Ceremony collection; Leon, Carol Lim and Jonze at Opening Ceremony’s 10th anniversary party in New York, 2012. fies the change of a decade or a change in generation. SJ: With Wild Things, I made the movie and then I brought it to Humberto. On this one, it was even T WAS A THREADBARE JACKET that first brought on wardrobe staples from the movie, like Phoenix’s more intertwined because as I was writing the movie film maverick Spike Jonze and fashion maven wool plaid coat and high-waisted pants. WSJ. talked I would talk to him about it. My costume designer, Humberto Leon together. At a Christmas to the duo on a call from their far-flung cosmopolitan Casey Storm, and I called Humberto a few times to party in New York six years ago, Leon rec- perches: Leon in Paris, where he was preparing for pick his brain. Iognized Jonze’s well-worn garment because the an upcoming Kenzo show (he and partner Carol Lim HL: I’m even in a barbecue scene in the film! I was going company he cofounded, cultish global boutique serve as the brand’s creative directors), and Jonze to L.A., and Spike was like, “We’re shooting a scene, Opening Ceremony, happened to have made it. The in Los Angeles, where he was putting the finishing come be an extra.” designer offered to replace the director’s jacket, touches on Her. Here, they talk filmmaking, fashion SJ: Humberto’s boyfriend, Patrick, and his mom, and the kindling for a haute-couture bromance was and the importance of kung fu to the creative process. Wendy, were in it, too. And his nephew, Jarod. sparked. That the two meshed so easily was no surprise: Both are known in their respective fields as WSJ: When did you first begin discussing Her? WSJ: How did the film influence the Opening Ceremony visionary cool kids who blend industry smarts with SPIKE JONZE: We were in Paris at the same time and collection? idiosyncratic style, Jonze with his wildly inventive Humberto said, “Let’s go to Morocco!” HL: When I watched the initial segments of the movie, I films (Being John Malkovich, Adaptation) and Leon HUMBERTO LEON: Spike brought his guitar, and in felt like I really wanted to make a men’s collection that with his fashion sense that seems to encapsulate between sing-alongs of Pulp songs and buying car- could work for both men and women. the downtown zeitgeist. The friends’ first mutual pets and eating great Moroccan food, he would tell me SJ: They’re clothes you can share with your boyfriend project came in 2009, when Leon designed a collec- about this new project he was working on. or girlfriend. They’re romantic clothes. tion inspired by Jonze’s Where the Wild Things Are: SJ: When I have an idea and it’s really early on, it’s HL: There are moments in the movie when Theodore A hoodie with pointy ears and a fuzzy, monster-like important to bounce it off people I trust and figure out has this safety pin holding up the device so Samantha one-piece sold out in a single day. The project was exactly what it is. Back in New York, Humberto and I can see what he sees. We decided to make all the pock- such a success that they’ve joined forces again, this started taking kung fu together two or three times a ets for devices based on the iPhone shape. time for Jonze’s latest film, Her, in which Joaquin week. I’d write all day, then we’d do kung fu after work. Phoenix plays a man who falls in love with an oper- On the way home we’d walk through the city and I’d WSJ: Spike, are you wearing clothes from the collec- ating system, throatily voiced by Scarlett Johansson. pitch him scenes and he’d give me feedback or ideas. tion to the premiere? The accompanying collection—called her by Opening SJ: Yes. I’m going to be embarrassed wearing clothes Ceremony—is “designed for men and meant for WSJ: What belt did you get to in kung fu? from my movie, but I really like them and… damn it,

women to steal,” according to Leon, and includes riffs HL: We’re before the belts. they’re good clothes. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY OF WARNER BROS. PICTURES; PHOTOGRAPHY BY F. MARTIN RAMIN (TAG AND SHIRT) STYLING BY ANNE CARDENAS;

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SHANGHAI libations AMSTERDAM ports of call BEIJING ORLANDO This winter, a growing cadre of influential bartenders is giving newfound mixological verve to Port, the sweet, fortified wine and holiday-season staple from Portugal’s Douro ROME CAVALIERI Valley. At Betony, Midtown Manhattan’s new dinner spot, general manager Eamon Rockey BERLIN creates a decadent cocktail featuring melted chunks of Valrhona bittersweet chocolate BLITHE sPIRITs KEY WEST and Madeira to highlight the Port’s nutty character and tart black cherry notes. “In the above: avedon’s 1953 portrait of winter, I want to tuck in with something hearty,” says Rockey. “Port has a richness and dovima, one of the NAPLES most famous models creaminess, but it’s also capable of a lot of tannins and acidity—think black pepper, red hotograph of her time. left:

oundation PARK CITY fruit.” Farther downtown in the Financial District, bartenders at cocktail saloon the ’60s supermodel veruschka on the Dead Rabbit are impassioned Port advocates. “I adore it,” says bar manager Jack McGarry. cover of the exhibition PANAMA “I’m definitely seeing it coming back.” His Bankers Punch cocktail—a triple threat of Port, catalogue Avedon: avedon f Women, distributed BOCA RATON rum and Irish whiskey, brightened with raspberry cordial and lime juice—has unexpect- by rizzoli. ichard ichard veruschka, dress by bill blass, edly become one of the bar’s most popular drinks. Through the cold weather months, RAS AL KHAIMAH new york, march 23, 1953, p he plans on serving lots of the Archbishop, a soul-warming mixture of Port, fresh juices, THE CALEDONIAN

ginger and Christmas spices like cinnamon and cloves. At the Hawthorne in Boston, rpels, bar manager Katie Emmerson fuses Port with aged tequila and vermouth for a boozy but LA QUINTA RESORT & CLUB When he was just a teenager, Richard smooth drink. And bartenders at Chicago’s the Violet Hour love to recommend their Coffee catalogue featuring TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES Ay Ay, an indulgent blend of Port, two dark rums and coffee-infused brown sugar syrup. Avedon began taking portraits of his THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS Port’s newfound popularity may cement its place in the craft cocktail repertoire, making younger sister, Louise. The resulting it a year-round regular rather than just a seasonal specialty. —Christopher Ross images were early instances of what became the late photographer’s lifetime Avedon: Women investment bottles project of immortalizing beautiful cover of Dustin Wilson, wine director of New York’s three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, women in his trademark gelatin silver selects the best Ports to buy now. For details see Sources, page 154. prints, from ’50s supermodel Dovima

to Anjelica Huston and Twiggy. oundation. • nIEPOORT • QuInTA DO • TAYLOR

‘COLHEITA’ nOVAL ‘VInTAGE FLADGATE Six decades’ worth of such portraits— avedon foundation and gagosian gallery, photographs © the r TAwnY nACIOnAL’ ‘LATE BOTTLED avedon avedon f “i like this because “this is certainly VInTAGE’ including never-before-seen contact it gives the drinker one of the greatest “what you get here sheets from his personal archives—are ichard a glimpse into vintage ports out is a wine of extremely ichard the character of a there. it is made only high quality, from now on view at Gagosian Gallery’s particular year’s a couple of times a single year, that’s harvest while still each decade and still approachable. Beverly Hills location for “Avedon: Women,” giving all of the comes from a small it’s dark in color and beautiful caramel, plot of ungrafted has rich black currant through December 21. The catalogue,

toffee, coffee and vines on the Quinta and plum flavors avedon, © the r nutty aromas of do noval property. layered with mocha, distributed by Rizzoli, is available at a great tawny. this is one of the hazelnut and fig.

Gagosian’s new retail space on Madison ichard READ THE NEW SHORT STORY FROM SIMON VAN BOOY

niepoort makes one most age-worthy impactful, but silky r by illustration by silja götz; courtesy of vendors (ports); dovima, pearls by van cleef & a of the best.” ports produced.” at the same time.” Avenue, in New York, among other stores. new york, january 1967 © the r FEATURING OLGA KURYLENKO EXCLUSIVELY AT WALDORFASTORIA.COM / THESTORIES

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architecture consistent modus operandi, it’s probably that their buildings don’t share a unified look. When it came to PAMM, the architects looked CULTURE CLUB closely at indigenous vegetation as well as local building styles. Amongst these was Stiltsville, a With the new Pérez Art Museum Miami, Herzog & de Meuron have small community of handmade bungalows that sit built a major artistic destination for a rapidly changing city. on wooden and concrete pylons in the middle of Biscayne Bay. Herzog compares the museum itself to a petrified wood structure, a kind of temple ris- BY ALASTAIR GORDON ing up to capture water views and currents of air blowing off the bay. “The breezes go right through the building,” he notes. Rigid concrete forms are complemented by a series of “hanging gardens” that surround the museum, dangling from the roof like ropes of Spanish moss or the air roots of a ban - yan tree. The slender green columns were designed by French garden artist Patrick Blanc using 54,700 plants and 77 local species including an exotic mix of salvia, parlor palms, begonia and artemisia arbore- scens. “The colonnade of vegetation acts as a buffer between the inside and outside of the museum,” says Herzog. “That’s why it’s more important than mere decoration.” PAMM is a cultural sieve of a museum, filter- ing art, architecture and weather through its open plan. Its galleries are laid out in a nonlinear pattern allowing the viewer the freedom to move in and out of the art spaces without following a set sequence. “It’s important for artists to be able to create their work in situ,” says Herzog, who explains how the ON THE WATERFRONT free-form arrangement offers flexible exhibition The museum’s design features hanging gardens spaces for experimental art, performance and mul- and an open floor plan. timedia installations. The question, however, remains: Will the art being installed inside these elegant boxes live up to the architecture? It’s been common knowledge for some ITH INLETS AND OCEAN on one side, suit, with Herzog & de Meuron leading the way. time that the museum lacks a substantial collection, sleek skyscrapers and sprawling urban Their über parking structure at 1111 Lincoln Road, but the thinking has been: If you build it, the art will infrastructure on the other, Miami’s opened in 2010, became a symbolic landmark for the come. This has been true, to some extent, as gifts pour new Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) reinvigorated city. Other high-profile projects by in from local collectors like Debra and Dennis Scholl, Wsits at a dynamic convergence of messy urban vitality brand-name architects include Frank Gehry’s New who donated about 300 works of art including a sculp- and natural beauty. “Every place has extraordinary World Center; a planned convention center by Rem tural installation by Ólafur Elíasson and a video piece potential, and we have to figure out what that is,” Koolhaas; and an eventual 60-story ‘exoskeleton’ by Raymond Pettibon; or Mimi and Bud Floback, who says Jacques Herzog, who, with fellow senior part- tower by Zaha Hadid; not to mention the 57-story gave more than 30 modern and contemporary pieces, ners Pierre de Meuron and Christine Binswanger, Jade Signature tower also designed by Herzog & de including works by Gerhard Richter and Dan Flavin. sought inspiration in the local topography. The Meuron, scheduled to open in 2016. But for all the “We’re still very young but we’ve been rapidly 200,000-square-foot modern and contemporary art architectural pyrotechnics, there was no symbolic building a collection,” says Jorge M. Pérez, a museum center manages to meld into its surroundings, almost fulcrum for Miami’s transformation from relative trustee and billionaire developer of downtown as if the architects had deconstructed a conventional backwater to international art Mecca. This is the Miami who donated $40 million toward the $220 museum and put it back together again, leaving only role that PAMM hopes to fulfill: a central destina- million project, including $20 million worth of Latin the most essential elements: a skeletal framework tion in an otherwise un-centered place. American art and important works by Wilfredo Lam with columns around the perimeter supporting open- Herzog & de Meuron are suited for such a chal- and Roberto Matta. (He was subsequently honored air terraces, an overhead trellis and galleries that lenge. The Pritzker Prize–winning firm has years of when the name of the museum changed from the float like independent volumes within. The outcome experience working with complex urban conditions Miami Art Museum to the Pérez Art Museum Miami.) LIFE IS A SMILE HAPPY SPORT AUTOMATIC is a quietly iconic cultural hub for a city on the cusp and has designed numerous art-related institutions “Hopefully, this museum will help the city grow of major change. around the world—14 in all—including the Walker Art culturally,” says Herzog. It will certainly be a star “This is a young city and while it’s factional- Center, in Minneapolis; the de Young Museum, in San attraction at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach art ized in many ways, it’s also evolving faster than Francisco; an exhibition hall in Basel, Switzerland; fair this December, when the much-anticipated build- most American cities,” says Thom Collins, director and, more recently, the Parrish Art Museum, in Water ing is unveiled with a series of installations including of PAMM. “It’s become a design city, an art city.” Mill, New York. There are never any repeat perfor- a retrospective of Chinese dissident artist Ai Weiwei, Over the past decade, new neighborhoods like the mances. Each building is designed to fit its unique a site-specific sculpture by Monika Sosnowska and a Design District and the Midtown and Wynwood setting—elongated barns for the Parrish, a twisted selection of works from Pérez’s own collection. But areas sprang up in industrial hinterlands with tower for the de Young—and they all share a simi- for the time being, the true jewel of the exhibitions Explore the collection at US.CHOPARD.COM dozens of galleries. Architecture has followed lar sense of discovery. If Herzog & de Meuron have a may be the building itself. © HERZOG & DE MEURON

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HOT PROPERTY art talk DOT-COM CLUBHOUSE graphic content Tech-world moguls are ditching Silicon Valley for trendier urban pastures, ﬂocking For each of her city films, Morris pro- to hangouts like San Francisco’s new British-style brasserie, the Cavalier. The step- duces companion canvases. She even above gastropub is loosely inspired by haunts like New York’s Minetta Tavern and the calls the two media “codependent,” Wolseley in London—welcoming at any hour, and for as long as one pleases. Designer since she often paints while idling between shoots. “Some of the locations Ken Fulk created four distinct spaces where guests can dine: the Blue Bar, with its in the film pop up in the titles of a paint- 12-foot windows and lantern-lit zinc bar (shown below); the vampy Main Dining Room; ing, or some of the colors go back and the understated Wine Stables, complete with fox-hunt mural; and the Rail Car, where forth,” she says of the Rio project, “like the Brahma beer factory brown. There’s Fulk recommends a red, tufted back booth “for canoodling.” Partner and Executive a ping-pong effect.” Chef Jennifer Puccio’s menu riffs on pub classics like Welsh rarebit presented The Petzel show is the first in a series as an airy soufflé. An adjacent members-only bar, Marianne’s, offers stiff drinks and of high-profile projects over the next year for Morris. A fashion-world darling a graffitied bathroom. “The Cavalier is a kind of neighborhood clubhouse for our who shot Kate Moss for British Vogue in CLOSET CASE evolving tech community,” says co-owner Anna Weinberg, who also runs nearby 2000, she will be one of the first artists eateries Marlowe and Park Tavern with her husband, James Nicholas. “We’re growing to create a T-shirt for a collaboration between Japanese retailer Uniqlo and BASIC INSTINCT 360 Jesse St.; 415-321-6000 —Nora Zelevansky up with them, from hoodies to Tom Ford suits.” the Museum of Modern Art. She’ll also Quality over quantity ought to be a launch a namesake collection with guiding principle for any wardrobe, Longchamp, focusing on its signature but the maxim is especially true nown for her films and Day-Glo geometric nylon foldable bag. Longchamp is even developing cus- for menswear. This spring, Louis canvases, the New York– and London-based tom dyes that echo Morris’s signature palette, which multimedia artist Sarah Morris is preoccu- she calls a combination of “very vivacious intense color Vuitton’s Kim Jones helps gentlemen pied by how identity and geography collide. mixed with dirty color.” pare down their closets with the Icons KThe child of an American mother and British father, she Her most anticipated fashion mash-up, though, is collection—timeless classics designed has created work in and about cities like Los Angeles, yet again centered on a location. Morris has been asked to transcend fashion’s whims, and New York, Miami and Chicago. Her latest show, at New by curator Suzanne Pagé to shoot a film for Bernard York’s Petzel Gallery through December 21, continues Arnault’s Fondation Louis Vuitton, which Pagé now available in stores year-round. Offered that obsession—in this case, with Rio de Janeiro. oversees. It will be the anchor exhibit for the opening of in a neutral color palette of navy, Morris, 46, has been dabbling in film since studying its new building, designed by Frank Gehry, in Paris’s Bois gray and cream, Icons has a decided semiotics at Brown. “There is some film floating out de Boulogne next fall. The film “will deal with nationalist cOLOr TheOry there of me eating cake,” she says of volunteering to identity, the brand and with Frank Gehry,” says Morris. from top: petrobas and rio atlantica, both from artist emphasis on outerwear: a packable act in a friend’s short film as an undergrad. Though her “It’s a very strange building but super uplifting, a cross sarah Morris’s 2013 series of works on rio de Janeiro, nylon trench; a mixed-leather varsity to be shown at new york’s petzel Gallery through acting career was brief, the experience influenced her between an oil rig and the chrysalis of a butterfly”— december 21. left: Morris photographed in her studio jacket; a work wear–inspired denim artistic practice, which blends still and moving images: a very Morris-like mix indeed. —Mark Ellwood earlier this year. piece; and a cotton coat featuring the brand’s signature Damier checker- print lining and leather trim. A soft leather briefcase and tailored pieces time machines round out the collection, including a two-button travel jacket, slim top of the hour chinos and subdued knits and shirts.

Courtesy of poltrona frau For its debut collection of luxury watches for women, Italian fashion Such essential clothing makes getting

ubio, house Dolce & Gabbana has elected to import touches of toughness dressed easy—which is a luxury [rio], [RIO], 2013,2013, householdHOUSEHOLD GlossGLOSS on ON Canvas CANVAS 60.04 60.04 x X 60.04 60.04 in, IN, CourtesyCOURTESY of OF the THE artist ARTIST andAND petzel,PETZEL, from its existing line of timepieces for men—black alligator leather in itself. —Tasha Green

PETROBAS petrobas straps, monochrome faces and slender but sturdy hands—rather than adorn the designs with ornate detailing, a hallmark of its women’s fashion collections. Instead, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

BENCHMARK DESIGN [RIO]. [rio]. 2013,2013, householdHOUSEHOLD GlossGLOSS paintPAINT onON Canvas,CANVAS, 48 48 x X 48 48 inChes,INCHES, CourtesyCOURTESY of OF theTHE artistARTIST andAND petzel,PETZEL, newNEW york.YORK. f. F. added quietly lavish elements such as precious gems. The watches Italian furniture authority Poltrona Frau is championing the work of overlooked range from sleek steel versions to models in gold with colored stones mid-century designer Gastone Rinaldi (1920–2006), welcoming three of his pioneering designs to their collection: the shapely Letizia and DU55 chairs like rubies and sapphires. (The versions at left feature white gold RIOrio ATLANTICA atlantica and the minimal, tubular steel T904 bench (left). (In his day, Rinaldi was one Min (top of the hour) and white and black diamonds, bottom). The collection launches this of the foremost experts on tubular technology.) The bench also features month at select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques around the world. plywood poplar with a teak-stained ash-wood veneer and removable cushions Ckwise froM top left: © Gaskell; artin ra COURTESYCourtesy OF of LOUISlouis VUITTONvuitton MALLETIER,Malletier, CESARCesar RUBIO,r COURTESY OF POLTRONA FRAU CLOCKWISEClo FROM TOP LEFT: © GASKELL; MARTINM RAMIN (TOP OF THE HOUR) for a ﬂexible, modern look. For details see Sources, page 154. NEWnew YORK;york; For details see Sources, page 154.

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The Portland, Oregon–based Ace Hotel om group has become synonymous with A.C

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a certain careworn, vintage aesthetic AC rio woman of steel that seems to echo its bohemian home- A SCALARE COLLECTION town. But a recent slew of high-profile For many years, stainless steel was associated with frying pans and hardware, openings, including a new location owell; d

not refined furniture fit for Parisian drawing rooms. But in 1968, French designer in London and another set to debut Cer l Maria Pergay challenged that perception when she created a collection of sinuous in Panama City, is establishing the furniture pieces—including her celebrated Ring Chair—using the workaday brand far beyond its Pacific Northwest metal, immediately establishing her reputation as a forward-thinking talent. origins. Case in point: the group’s More than four decades later, Pergay’s enduring popularity is evident at this newest venture, opening early next year month’s Design Miami (December 4–8), where New York gallery Demisch in downtown L.A. (above). Located Danant is showing nine pieces, including four works from the 1968 show. Now inside the historic United Artists build- los Angeles, pHoto by s pen in her late eighties, Pergay also designed four pieces in collaboration with the ing, built in 1927, the venue echoes fashion designer Silvia Fendi, including the Cabinet Petales (above), on display at Old Hollywood grandeur with baroque owntown the Fendi-sponsored fair and available in editions of 12. fendi.com. Spanish Gothic spires and gleaming chandeliers. Inside, 182 rooms offer the usual Ace amenities (some include turntables and guitars) while the leg- high note endary theater has been restored with It took mezzo-soprano Isabel Leonard seven years to learn a recessed, mirrored ceiling and murals her way around the Escher-like backstage of the Metropolitan Opera. “You think you’ll be able to take a stairwell to the depicting stars of yore. Sunbathe on second floor, but it won’t actually go there,” says the 31-year- the rooftop by the pool, grab a bite old New York native and winner of this year’s Richard Tucker Award for rising American opera singers. With seven at the hotel restaurant from the team productions at the house under her belt, including this behind Brooklyn’s Five Leaves eatery season’s acclaimed Cosí Fan Tutte, she’s finally at home or see a movie in a screening room that there—though she hasn’t actually been in one place for longer than three months since she graduated from Juilliard in 2005. once belonged to starlet Mary Pickford, “I’ve gotten really comfortable at the Met,” says Leonard, whose Tinseltown glamour still suffuses who’ll take a break from her frenzied schedule this month to the space. 929 S. Broadway; 213-623- visit family in Argentina. “It’s kind of like a seven-year Ckwise from top left: Courtesy of fendi; Courtesy of ACe Hotel d

itch—but this marriage is going to continue.” —Megan Conway 3233 —C.R. Clo ROBERTOCOIN.COM 74 wsj. magazine

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Rodin devised in her Chelsea bathroom in 2008. “I was doing 100 bottles at a time, and everything was coming to my apartment. It was so I Love Lucy, somebody should have filmed it!” she says, laughing. These days, production of the best-selling salve has transferred to a factory in New Jersey to meet higher demand. The location is convenient to Rodin, who still personally approves every batch. “We used to make 3,000 [bottles] at a time and now we make… more,” she says, reluctant to reveal too many details about her privately held company’s growth. But growing it is: Rodin now makes a body oil; a hair oil created in collaboration with coiffing legend Bob Recine; lip balm; hand crema; fragrance; a candle; rodin and, starting this month, a bar soap that smells of spent over the same heady jasmine that permeates all her prod- a ye ar the craf ting perfume’s ucts. “It sounds pretty snobby, but my theory has this face primary always really been, if I like it, than somebody else is oil notes are jasmine and going to like it,” says Rodin. In May, she’ll debut her neroli first cleanser: a mix-with-water powder instead of a more traditional oil-based formula, which simply the cult of “didn’t work” for her. “I don’t want to put oil over oil,” she says. “I want my face to feel clean.” lInda “I think the real appeal of Linda’s Olio Lusso is that it’s a boutique product,” says Recine, who will launch a new hair conditioner with Rodin next year. rodIn “[She’s] not making it by the millions, and there are none of the additives that huge companies use to The face oil baroness whose lower the price, so what you’re dealing with is a very name is on the lips—and pure product.” Rodin gives credit to Recine for lifting her company’s underground public-relations net- faces—of the world’s biggest work off the ground during the company’s early days, models and makeup artists. passing her glass vials on to actors like Gwyneth Paltrow, who mentioned the products on her website, Goop, in 2010. (They are now sold at high-end retail- ers like Barneys, Colette in Paris and the e-commerce t really happened by accident,” says Linda site Net-A-Porter.) Other proselytizers of the Olio Rodin of her self-named beauty brand, which Lusso gospel include makeup artist Fulvia Farolfi; she pronounces with a Parisian twang—Ro-dan Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux; —like the famous sculptor. On a September models like Chanel Iman and Karlie Kloss; and the Iafternoon at New York’s members-only Norwood stylists Kate Young and Vanessa Traina, the latter of Club, the silver-haired former model and early ’80s whom launched her first curated online venture, The Harper’s Bazaar fashion editor is wearing a reliable Line, in October, with Rodin on its homepage. slick of her signature matte magenta lip shade: one Still, Rodin remains her own best representative. part Make Up For Ever Aqua Lip Pencil in #16C, “Her passion was infectious,” says Gucci Westman, one part By Terry Rouge Terrybly Lipstick in Pink the global artistic director for Revlon who was Party. “It’s not as if I was like, oh, I’m getting too introduced to Olio Lusso on a shoot with Rodin for

old to be a stylist, I’d better think of something Victoria’s Secret. “She put so much love into it—and rodin’s else,” says the 65-year-old, who worked as a free- she’s a very chic woman. I immediately gave my first face cle anser lance stylist after her magazine stint, dressing sample to Julianne Moore, who loves face oils. She debuts ne x t R)

ye ar tin everyone from Madonna to Gisele Bündchen. “It became a big fan.” In addition to turns on fashion wde O AR p . M never was a plan at all.” blogs like the Coveteur and Advanced Style, the G f In fact, there’s nothing accidental about Rodin’s designer Karen Walker asked Rodin to return to mod- in din); eAnS fashion industry fans, who not only use her prod- eling for her spring/summer 2013 eyewear campaign. O ucts, but also endorse them pro bono—a rarity Rodin’s personal profile is increasing in direct CL din ( in an industry known for its high-profile spokesper- proportion to interest in her brand. “I was walking beauty bar zine (R Clockwise from RO AGA y

son deals and celebrity contracts. The 5-year-old down the street the other day, and this woman said, ‘I top: Rodin’s hand S te

company’s success is all the more impressive know you. I’ve been using your products for years,’ ” and body crema ey M R uR

with antioxidants; G

considering its grassroots origins: In the early days, she says. “No one ever looked at me when I was 25! It’s CO OR perfume; all-natural ); products were hand-delivered and advertised solely a riot, but you don’t take it that seriously.” Then, for a sheer lip balm; bar CtS hen f

through word of mouth. Her immensely popular Olio moment, she allows for some well-deserved satisfac- soap, debuting this du O

Lusso—a golden-hued blend of 11 pure essential oils tion. “I am proud of myself. How many times did I month; powder face RO cleanser, available including neroli, rosehip, sweet almond and calen- have ideas that I never did anything with? in (p next year; and Olio i Seth C AM AR dula—began as a homespun solution to dry skin that And this, I did.” —Celia Ellenberg Lusso face oil. R

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STUDY IN DESIGN WHOLE GRAIN Wood furniture and accessories take a turn toward utilitarian elegance, ditching cigar-wrapper-brown surfaces in favor of letting the imperfections of the grain show through. This is luxury deﬁned as authenticity—unvarnished and unﬁnished, maybe, but never unsophisticated. —Sarah Medford

HOT FUZZ It’s not often one sees fur on spring runways, much less plush, avant-garde pelts inspired by political wall art. But that’s exactly what perennial INTO THE WOOD fashion provocateur Clockwise from far left: Refuge Miuccia Prada showed Furniture Canyon bookcase; this year as part of her In West Elm Universal Expert utensils; Pinch Holland Park the Heart of the Multitude beech armchair; Soren end table collaboration with by Refuge Furniture; Cappellini six young artists and Poh walnut table by Raphael illustrators, who Navot. For details, see Sources, decorated the walls of the page 154. Via Fogazzaro space in Milan where her Italian fashion house always hosts its presentations. Some of the murals even transmuted onto the clothes, like the blonde visage on the coat Lindsey Wixson modeled (above)—equal parts collector’s item and statement piece.

FOOD NETWORK DEEP SEA DINING James Beard award–winning chef Paul Kahan and restaurateurs Donnie Madia, Kimberly Galban and Terry Alexander are the reigning regents of the Chicago food scene, responsible for everything from fine-dining temple Blackbird to beloved taco joint Big Star. Their latest venture, Nico Osteria (opening this month), tackles Italian seafood. Inspired by the cuisine of Puglia, Italy, the trio and executive chef Erling Wu-Bower have devised a menu that blends rustic culinary techniques with fresh fish and shellfish. Look for the lobster spaghetti: toothsome noodles with MERRELL; DEREK RICHMOND chunks of claw meat in a rich tomato sauce. 21 East Bellevue Place; 312-266-2100 —C.R. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF PRADA;F. MARTIN RAMIN (UTENSIL); COURTESY OF PINCH/JAMES

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Three of fine jewelry design’s most promising new talents—Sara Beltrán ‘Tis better to give than receive. of Dezso; Evan Yurman of David Yurman; and Ana Khouri, of her In theory. self-named company—reveal the sources of their inspiration, from Frida Kahlo to Oscar Niemeyer and Albert Camus. Patrón Tequila is made in small batches using only the finest Weber with wsj. Blue Agave. The final product is an extremely refined tequila – a gift Simply Perfect. you can feel good about giving. Or receiving. patrongift.com

1. Do you have a favorite 6 pair of shoes? art & Recently, I’ve been

1 Courtesy of lbum

obsessed with this pair of a sneakers from Woman by iates;

Common Projects. I got two C sso

pairs of the same style. arregui,

2. What hotels have you 2 visited recently and

loved? oto: leon l I really like Raas Jodhpur pH in India—low profile and n; cool; the J.K. Place in Capri (right); and Coqui Coqui, 6. What are your favorite destinations? Hy by prudenCe Cuming a my friend Francesca’s hotel India and Tulum (above), in Mexico. India in Tulum. is always full of surprises and every trip I

take over there, I find something inspiring. otograp

3. What is your preferred pH

It is a magical place. : luggage? ny Rimowa. , 7. Who are your fashion inspirations? ; Courtesy of sara beltrÁ I love María Félix and Frida Kahlo (below), ars

both Mexican women who were very tal- orbis ented, strong and had great style. ol. 3

sara beltrÁn Alc./V 8. What are your travel essentials? Cs, london / Founder and head designer, ettmann/C da 40% dezso Mountain Ocean Coconut Skin Trip .

Coconut lotion, my jewelry (Beltrán’s gold NV , shark fin and polki diamond cuff, bottom)

The globe-trotting 37-year-old jewelry gas

and a cashmere sweater and scarf. Ve

designer Sara Beltrán began her career s La Hts reserved / by the sea. In 2005, while working as a , orn Holland; © b

stylist’s assistant on a shoot with bJ ll rig 7 ts; photographer Bruce Weber in Virginia a JeC

Beach, she picked up an Andara shell, td. irits Company Ce l

which she later cast in gold and attached Sp

to a bracelet. Weber, impressed by her ien trón sC ommon pro style, asked her to contribute a few pieces Pa

to his Weberbilt clothing collection, and The things took off from there. She started 13 20

her fine jewelry line, Dezso (Latin for . ©

“desire”), in earnest when she moved to amien and Hirst Jaipur, India, in 2009 to study stones and sponsibly

soak in the local color, following a stint in 4 re Courtesy of woman by C New York studying fashion merchandis- apri trón is Ce C

ing at FIT. A native of Mexico, she splits artin; Pa pla her time between Tulum, Manhattan and 5 anónima; © 2013 d Jaipur, blending elements of each design iedad culture in her pieces. Still, her most 4. Who is your favorite musician at the moment? consistent inspiration remains the ocean.

My great friend León Larregui has an alternative rock band ect way to enjoy Earrings, bracelets and necklaces called Zoé, and he just launched his solo album, Solstis. He is rf pe incorporate nautical ephemera such as very passionate, and I love his music. The fish fins, shark teeth and coral fragments, 5. What is your favorite piece of artwork? while shimmering polki diamonds and I love the tiger shark by Damien Hirst (The Physical Impossibility

greenish-blue kyanite stones echo the of Death in the Mind of Someone Living), probably because I am Ckwise from top: Juan Carlos m Clo rimowa luggage; Courtesy of J.k. > really scared of and obsessed with sharks. design: rodrigo tovar / soC sea’s colors. 8

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1 6. What is your favorite indulgence? Osetra caviar from Caviar Russe.

7. What museums do you most like to visit? The Menil Collection (in Houston, Texas, below) and the Rothko Chapel, also in Houston. My single favorite artwork is Vanitas, by Georges Braque. Cts; © 1. What is your favorite book? C produ The Stranger, by Albert Camus. I love to browse books at Leadapron Rare 6 e biologi

Books in Los Angeles. CH

evan yurman er 2 CH chieF design director, 2. Who is your fashion inspiration? david yurman 4 James Dean. Evan Yurman never planned to follow Courtesy of tiConderoga; Courtesy of 3. What are your essential in the footsteps of his father, jewelry- grooming products? Courtesy of re business giant David Yurman. But a Traditional Japanese black run-in with a blacksmith in upstate New soap and Marvis toothpaste aid/Corbis;

York on a walk through the woods led to in Aquatic Mint (right). arC

a fascination with handmade knives. An Jaipur; vilas, 4. What design gadget apprenticeship soon followed, stoking his can you not live without? raJ

love for artisanal craftsmanship. A #2 pencil. ard b ryant/ beroi Yurman joined his father’s company in CH 2004, where he went on to oversee the 5. What is your favorite e o restaurant in your home- tH men’s, timepiece, bridal and high-jewelry town? lamy collections. In October, the 31-year-old La Grenouille (below). When was appointed chief design director. I’m in Paris, I like to dine at Even as his responsibilities have grown, Chez L’Ami Louis. igelow his sensibility has remained elemental 3 and masculine—fitting for a man who 5 counts James Dean as his personal style icon. His Armory collection of pavé black diamond bracelets and rings was inspired by 15th-century Gothic armor, while his Maritime collection of cuff links and necklaces references braided Courtesy of globe-trotter; Courtesy of t; Courtesy of de vera; © JaCk grieve / a

knots, drawing on Evan’s memories of 7 Julia skarratt; Courtesy of C.o. b ran Hamptons harbor towns and his grandfa- mages;

ther reading Moby-Dick aloud. usHi g getty i ouri; tures/ ribaleye/alamy; ribaleye/alamy; t all-

8 H ars Courtesy of ana kH

8. What is your preferred luggage? Hen pan; time & life piC Filson. tep aid/Corbis; 9. What is your favorite gemstone? arC Opal (Yurman’s opal signature ring, left). But my most treasured piece of jewelry is an emerald and diamond helmet ornament in the shape of a dragon, from Russia. Courtesy of david yurman; J m eintraub/

9 10. What hotel have you visited recently and loved? Ckwise from top left: Cameron krone; Courtesy of random House; sanford rotH; Courtesy of Caviar russe; © ri Ckwise from top: s 10 Clo Clo alan w The Tawaraya hotel in Kyoto, Japan. filson;

1213_WSJ_WhatsNews_Q&A_10_02.indd 82 10/30/13 2:37 PM 10302013133915 Approved with warnings what’s news

1. What’s your favorite 5 5. Who are your fashion inspirations? design gadget? I admire independent and strong women My old original Leica who reflect their own style: Louise We perfect each part of this watch by hand. camera. Bourgeois, Frida Kahlo, C.Z. Guest (left), Gala Dalí, Gayatri Devi. 2. What are your favorite Even the ones that you can’t see. shops in your hometown? 6. What is your preferred luggage? De Vera (below) and Globe-Trotter (below) and handmade Barneys. Moroccan bags.

3. How would you describe your decorating style? 6 I’m more of a mid-century modern, classic kind of person. In a dream world, my house would be by architect Oscar Niemeyer. Cts; ©

4. What hotel have you visited recently and GiC produ loved? The Oberoi hotels in he biolo India, especially the one in 4 C

ana khouri Rajvilas (right). her founder and designer, ana khouri

The buzzy 32-year-old Brazilian designer 1 Ana Khouri stumbled onto her métier Courtesy of reC almost by accident, designing a few pieces

while studying sculpture in her native aipur; São Paulo. But when two of the city’s luxury stores began carrying her wares

before she even graduated, she recog- rajvilas, j nized her calling and threw herself into a

rigorous study of the field. After getting beroi a degree from the Gemological Institute 2 of America, she enrolled in jewelry design lamy lamy programs at London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design

and Parsons in New York. Her namesake Courtesy of the o line, launched in 2002, has focused on 3 limited-edition items that blend Art Deco glam with precious gems like sapphires

and rubies. Fashion plates from Madonna lobe-trotter; to Carine Roitfeld have sported her signature jewels, such as bracelets that snake up the hand and two-sided conical spike earrings. She counts sculptor Richard Courtesy of G es; Serra as one of her favorite artists, show- G ma ing that her original creative path, while i slightly adapted, is never far from mind. • 7 tures/Getty

9 7. What are your essential grooming products? Although you will probably never actually see most of the lavishly finished parts are concealed. Fortunately, the Biologique Recherche products and bath oils. levers, wheels, and springs in the Lange 1 calibre, Lange’s sapphire-crystal back reveals the fascinating interaction

8. What are your favorite gemstones? Courtesy of ana khouri; ushi Grant; Courtesy of de vera; © jaCk Grieve / a master watchmakers meticulously perfect them by hand. of quite a few of them. Treat yourself to a close-up look. For 8 Exquisite gemstones in general—it’s not about value but uniqueness. I collect beautiful stones; for example, I just got a Aficionados will appreciate the fact that not all of these instance at Wempe in New York. www.lange-soehne.com stunning blue sapphire. I also love diamonds for their clarity

and big baroque pearls for their imperfection (Khouri’s pearl aid/Corbis; stud earrings with white diamonds, near left). arC

9. What are the most unusual objects you’ve acquired on your travels? I brought home so many colorful sun umbrellas from India, and eintraub/

also color powders from Morocco (far left), which opened in Ckwise from top: stephen pan; time & life piC

my suitcase and ruined my clothes. Clo alan w

84 wsj. magazine

1213_WSJ_WhatsNews_Q&A_10_03.indd 84 10/31/13 2:01 PM 10312013130929 Approved with warnings

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© 2013 Dow Jones & Company, InC. all RIghts ReseRveD. 6ao1362 Follow us @WSJnoted Mo nd 74 ay 5 –F fif gr ea ri to pear th Fu t da cr lo lc l— ea ok y1 o da av te — s di y- wi th en Ve in 0a is th but to rd ue 19 im m–6 a -n ur te to me ig ry 34 a –1 uc ht co ns go ve h pm 2 cl mb el ld of th as y in an rd sa wear si • fl c. es pp d Sa tw lu hi ur ab oo stro re o tu le , r, a. us rd ne co ay w m s yo in rk “Y Th TO De ” e • ce DA Ne So 21 mb ut ck 2. Y h er la 5 7 Se ce 8. 11 a & 33 Pe am To 88 ar –5 gg & l le pm Sa Br pp ac hi el et re

Pearl “Y” Necklace $29,500; Toggle Bracelet $12,500. ©Verdura. All rights reserved. wsj. magazine fashion & design forecast Chocolat Smoothing Blow-Dry Cream and paired with an open-collar silhouette exudes easy sophistication. Prada embroidered silk silk embroidered Prada sophistication. easy exudes silhouette open-collar an with paired and Cream Blow-Dry Smoothing Chocolat dress, Solange Azagury-Partridge diamond pendant necklace and Jennifer Meyer gold necklace. Beauty editor: Celia Ellenberg Celia editor: Beauty necklace. gold Meyer Jennifer and necklace pendant diamond Azagury-Partridge Solange dress, Low-slung ponytails are no longer the exclusive domain of the girl next door. A soft updo prepped with Carol’s Daughter Daughter Carol’s with prepped updo Asoft door. next girl the of domain exclusive the longer no are ponytails Low-slung MARKET REPORT. MARKET PONY UP UP PONY season’s patterned brightly Spring ahead to a modern amodern to ahead Spring attire with no-hassle with hair attire PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENWELLER PHOTOGRAPHY STYLING BY ZARA ZACHRISSON BY ZARA STYLING PRINTS look by pairing this this look by pairing december 2013/january2014 FRESH FRESH and makeup. and

87 market report

SHoRT SToRy divide and ConQueR Fall’s favorite cropped haircuts can easily be slicked back into borrowed-from-the-boys quiffs with a few pumps of Kerastase Mixing prints calls for simplicity above the neck. Play it straight with a sleek middle part coated with Redken Glass 01 Couture Styling Lift Vertige Gel—the better to showcase a statement collar with. Add strength to arches with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Smoothing Serum and a single makeup element, like a heavy-handed application of Dior Diorshow Extase Mascara on top and Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil. Marc Jacobs tweed coat with fox-fur collar, Dolce & Gabbana silk blouse and Dior lacquer earring. bottom lashes. Dior coat, Gucci silk shirt, Sydney Evan necklace and Nektar De Stagni pearl pendant and chain.

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market report

Life can be perfect

FRinGe BeneFiTS Razor-trimmed bangs and long layers provide an extra touch of texture when worn with patterns and embellished details. Work Aveda Control Paste into ends for a chunky, piece-y finish. Valentino floral embroidered dress, Jennifer Fisher heart charm and chain and Solange Azagury-Partridge diamond pendant necklace.

Models, in order as they appear, Maria Borges @ Supreme, Maggie Laine @ IMG, Athena Wilson @ The Society Management and Daiane Conterato @ The Society Management; hair, Akki; makeup, Sil Bruinsma. For details see Sources, page 154.

90 wsj. magazine visit: terlatowines.com

1213_WSJ_MarketReport_03.indd 90 10/31/13 12:08 PM 10312013111400 leading the conversation the exchange. december 2013 / january 2014

Dyson examines a prototype of the DC41 Animal vacuum cleaner with a team of his engineers. He has a famously young workforce cherry-picked straight from school.

tracked JAMES DYSON The British inventor and industrial designer radically reinvents the familiar.

BY AliciA KirBY photogrAphY BY Ben roBerts

ames Dyson is best known as the man who top-secret projects, many of them five to ten years away his family home in rural Gloucestershire; and an estate in made vacuum cleaners sexy. In 1993, the Norfolk from completion. He has invented everything from France. He and his wife of 45 years, Deirdre, have three native launched the DC01, the world’s first a bladeless fan to a high-speed landing craft known children together: Emily owns Kensington fashion bou- bagless cleaner with cyclone technology, which as the “sea truck”—one of which is parked outside his tique Couverture and the Garbstore, while their two Jlets users ogle their dirt as it’s sucked into the machine. vast campus-like factory and development center in sons—Sam, a musician, and Jake, a lighting designer— “Market research told us nobody wanted to see dirt, Malmesbury, about 95 miles west of London. Security joined the board of their father’s holding company this but I thought they were wrong and ignored them,” at headquarters is extremely tight. Since the incep- year. Dyson is also a philanthropist on a personal cru- says 66-year-old Dyson. His instincts were right: Last tion of his first vacuum cleaner, Dyson’s company has sade to revive Britain’s manufacturing industry and year, his self-named company raked in nearly $200 had to fight countless patent infringement lawsuits in address its current shortage of engineers—a segment of billion and sold over 50 million products worldwide. court, and was even involved in an industrial espionage the workforce he sees as crucial to a thriving economy. In the U.K., his sleekly designed revamps of classic scandal with a rival manufacturing company in 2012. He and other CEOs like Angela Ahrendts (formerly of appliances—hand dryers, vacuums, fans—have a near- Employees must use a fingerprint scanner to enter the Burberry, she will join Apple next year) advocate for this fanatical cult following. Some devotees have even gone building and, even then, access to most research and agenda as members of the prime minister’s business so far as to name their children Dyson. development areas is highly restricted. advisory group. Visits to 10 Downing Street are among On a typical day, Dyson collaborates with a handful When he’s not at work in Malmesbury, Dyson splits the few occasions when one can glimpse Dyson, famously of his thousand-strong squad of designer-engineers on his time between London, where he has an apartment; casual, wearing a suit and tie. >

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8:45 a.m. Breakfast in London 5,127 at Daylesford café, The number of prototypes including scrambled eggs with made before the launch of the DC01 vacuum. limited company partnership brown bread, black coffee and fresh beetroot and carrot juice. 50% “We did some research and discovered that if a couple buys a Dyson, the husband is 50% more likely to do the vacuuming,” says Dyson. 600 10:13 a.m. The amount of calories Meets Kenneth Grange Dyson is currently allowed two days a (second from left), the celebrated week on the trendy 5:2 fasting diet. designer, and other judges, at the Dyson press office to discuss entries for his eponymous design engineering award. Entries must all solve a problem. 3 times a week Dyson goes on a cross-country run—a sport he has enjoyed since childhood. 450 The approximate number of patents filed globally by Dyson’s company each year. “I’m not interested in commercial lawsuits, but if someone infringes 10:37 a.m. 11:30 a.m. your patent, you must defend it,” he says. The Royal College of Art, Visits 10 Downing Street where he attends a meeting with the to advise the prime minister and cabinet U.K. winners of last year’s design members on how to turn Britain into award in the new £21 million Dyson 2006 Europe’s leading high-tech exporter. building. Dyson is an RCA alum. The year Dyson was knighted.

2:43 p.m. 24,000 Arrives at acres on his farm Malmesbury in Lincolnshire, a recent purchase that design HQ after a two-and- yields industrial amounts of crops. “I have a-half-hour drive in the videos of the farm sent to me,” he says. company-owned Maserati. 4:00 p.m. Dyson employs 1,500 Meets designers in engineers worldwide. the electromagnetic chamber to test the static and £25 electrical interference of the The cost of the vacuum DC50 Animal vacuum cleaner, cleaner that each new Dyson employee is among other machines. encouraged to purchase. However, they must first assemble it from scratch to understand the product better. Proceeds go to Dyson’s educational charity.

5:10 p.m. THE ULTIMATE MATCHMAKING SERVICE Designs by hand using a 2B 0.9mm Rotring $56 million mechanical pencil and The amount donated . . . . a plastic Staedtler eraser. by Dyson to educational and medical Global Headquarters: 53 Davies Street Mayfair London W1K 5JH +44 (0)20 7290 9585 He is currently on research, particularly for cancer. Dyson’s EUROPE . ASIA . NORTH AMERICA . SOUTH AMERICA . AUSTRALIA . AFRICA his 74th sketchbook. father died from the disease when he was 9.• www.grayandfarrar.com 94 wsj. magazine “WATER AND BREEzES DEFINE FLORIDA. THEY ARE THE ESSENCE OF THE OCEANFRONT. THEY ALSO SHAPE REGALIA.”

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seamstresses are sewing 200 pieces of nine different types “WE DO WHAT MANY of lace into a pair of black eve- BRANDS DON’T ning pants. On a mannequin across the room is a half-made HAVE THE TIME, dress: Hundreds of tiny folds of RESOURCES OR wool fabric have been coaxed EXPERTISE TO DO into submission and intricately THEMSELVES.” anchored down by a sea of min- iscule pins, each placed by hand –TIZIANO CIAMPETTI during a 60-hour process. Though many of the fashion houses that work with Studio world-class premiere status. As the top dog Roscini refuse to publicly acknowledge their collabo- at these ateliers in the ’80s, she quickly became the rations, a quick tour feels like a behind-the-scenes go-to girl for such maestros as Yves Saint Laurent, look at Milan, London and Paris fashion weeks. Giorgio Armani, Nino Cerruti and Franco Moschino. The walls are plastered with magazine clippings of In those years, the creative exchange was up stars like Gwyneth Paltrow, Julianne Moore, Nicole close and very personal. Roscini learned a Kidman and Sandra Bullock waltzing down the Oscar militant work ethic from working alongside red carpet and a tear sheet of Michelle Obama with Armani. “He worked day and night,” she recalls. making it Queen Elizabeth II. “He was unstoppable.” Today, it is largely young “We made all of those,” Roscini says of the gowns. designers who reap the rewards of working with a “This is an old-fashioned atelier,” explains Tiziano woman of Roscini’s expertise. fashion’s best-kept secret Ciampetti, Roscini’s son and the company’s CEO. “Every technical challenge you give them they “We do what many brands don’t have the time, solve in the most perfect way,” says the newly named The seamstresses at Studio Roscini, a couture-level atelier hidden deep in the Italian countryside, resources or expertise to do them- Schiaparelli designer, Marco Zanini, are the hidden hands responsible for many a catwalk creation and Oscar gown. selves. When you have to put [two who hired the studio to realize his types of fur] on a chiffon base with entire debut Halston collection in three kinds of paillettes and baguettes, 2008. The most arduous designs were BY j.j. Martin PhotograPhY BY jaMes Mollison it is crazy. Most people cannot do this.” three silk dresses made from seven Studio Roscini employs the same layers of chiffon, which the studio cut laborious—and nearly extinct— and sewed by hand. “It was like keep- techniques that are more typically ing together seven unruly children. It associated with couture ateliers. It was a thing that no one could handle is painstaking and exacting work and they did it perfectly.” reserved for the creation of proto- The entire process begins when types for fashion shows and for the a sketch from the fashion designer extremely complex steps of final pro- arrives at the atelier. “This can be any- duction. Some niche brands come to thing from a very technical drawing to them to produce entire collections, chicken-scrawl scratches that give us while larger labels often call them in an idea of volume,” Roscini says. to achieve the most complicated pieces A team studies the sketch and trans- that will be the stars of a collection. lates it into a more technical drawing. “Oftentimes things are designed Then a pattern is drawn on life-size by a designer, and no one has a clue as sheets of paper, cut out and applied to how it can be made,” says Matteo to a temporary fabric. This so-called Marzotto, who worked with Roscini “muslin” is cut, sewn and draped during his tenure as chairman at Valentino Fashion on a mannequin. The seamstresses huddle around Group. “Everyone speaks about the genius of Phoebe the nascent design, picking it apart and debating [Philo] and Nicolas [Ghesquière], but those design- its shortcomings. It is then refined, fine-tuned and ers need to be supported by people like Roscini, who revised. Once the muslin is approved, the dress is SEW FINE Furs, sequins, lace and tulle are stitched into complex designs for approximately 15 high-fashion labels—most of which won’t admit to working with Studio Roscini. can interpret and actually make their designs hap- remade again in the preferred fabric, tweaked again pen. Going from paper to garment is an extremely and a final sample of the design is born. Only once the complex process.” design has been perfected is the pattern input into “All of this know-how comes from my mother,” a computerized system that will determine the most he sleepy ItalIan vIllage of Spello, a is famed pattern maker Anna Maria Roscini—a and seamstresses once spent three months making a Ciampetti explains. “She is a genius. She’s very efficient way to maximize the cutting of costly fabric. few miles from St. Francis of Assisi’s holy 58-year-old Spello native—and Studio Roscini, the single woman’s jacket match a designer’s seemingly simple but very capable of bonding with different Key to such intricate workmanship are the fab- stomping grounds, last enjoyed ‘it’ status atelier she founded in 1990. Under her careful watch, impossible vision: laboriously reconstructing its body, designers and personalities.” rics, the majority of which Studio Roscini has 1,800 years ago when moneyed members of it produces some of the most technically complex and tweaking the peak in its shoulders and repeatedly Roscini first learned to sew at age 10 and preferred researched and developed by transforming bolts of ITALIAN STYLE From top: Studio Roscini is tthe Holy Roman Empire holidayed there. Today it has costly garments in the realm of ready-to-wear. resewing its seams until it was so perfectly tailored it to study dressmaking in high school and college, when plain silk, satin, wool or tulle from outside suppli- located in Spello, Italy, four-and-a-half hours from fallen off the radar, except for the 15 or so luxury labels In the highly competitive world of fashion, Roscini could practically stand on its own. “We worked on that her peers were tackling geometry, chemistry and Milan; a Halston gown from fall 2008, left, and a ers into one-of-a-kind collages of studs, feathers and that have unofficially anointed it as a clandestine capi- and her team are famed for their unparalleled skills and jacket like a sculptor with his clay,” says Roscini. economics. She began her career at Italian licensee fall 2008 gown by Valentino; pictures of red-carpet embroideries. dresses sewn at the atelier; photographs of a gown tal of the fashion world. discretion—as though a couture atelier was crossed The same monomaniacal approach is on dis- production companies including Icap, Hemmond and in progress at Studio Roscini; the atelier’s founder, “We can never tell a client ‘no,’ ” Roscini says sol-

For these brands, the small town’s main attraction with Los Alamos. She and five of her 40 pattern makers play during a recent visit to the studio, where FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY) Ingram, where she quickly rose through the ranks to Anna Maria Roscini, who learned to sew at age 10. emnly. “It would be defeat if we couldn’t do it.”

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It is the thought that counts.

laus Meyer—chef, TV personality, philanthropist, serial entrepreneur—is wandering through his new food-and-drink complex along the Copenhagen waterfront, still a Cconstruction site barely a month before its opening in October. The dusty shell will soon contain an upscale Indian restaurant, a jazz club, a casual bistro and a high-end showcase for new Nordic cooking. “This thing is a monster,” he says, skirting past a tattooed worker applying a final coat of paint to the ceiling. The Standard, as the whole project is called, is a change of pace for Denmark’s most prominent food celebrity, a straightforward pleasure palace with no grand agenda. For years, Meyer has exuded the world-changing ambitions and natural charisma of Jamie Oliver, combined with the manic business drive of Richard Branson. In 1991, he became the host of a prime-time cooking show on Denmark’s national TV network that ran for six years. In 2003 he, along with chef René Redzepi, opened Noma, the Copenhagen restaurant that would redefine Nordic cuisine. His empire in Denmark includes four bakeries, four delis, the restaurants Radio and Namnam, a small country hotel, an apple orchard, a vinegar brewery and a vast chain of corporate canteens. His name is ubiquitous in master builder the country, with Meyer labels on flour, coffee, jams, Meyer, who recently juices, beer and wine. Next year he hopes to make his sold most of his majority stake in mark on the U.S. too, with plans to launch a new Nordic Noma, in front of his food emporium in New York City. new food complex In the last 20 years, through a mix of showman- Diamonds are forever and so are memories. From tropical getaways to exciting adventures with in Copenhagen, The Standard, which ship, commerce and grassroots campaigning, he’s friends and family, The Sentient Jet Card is the intelligent choice in private jet travel this season opened in October. had a tremendous impact on the way Danes eat—and and all year round. has become a divisive figure in the process, as a wealthy outspoken celebrity in a country where Inventor of the jet card model and first to establish an independent safety advisory board humility remains a national trait. “I’m much less All-inclusive pricing with rates and fuel locked-in for 12 months epicurean travel interested in money than I am in doing great things,” Meyer insisted when we met for the first time last Often 20% less than other jet cards summer at the beautiful old house he shares with his boardwalk empire three daughters, two dogs and his wife, Christina Give the sensible gift they’ll never forget. Call 877.534.3003 Meyer Bengtsson, an interior designer who has col- Claus Meyer, cofounder of the internationally acclaimed Noma laborated on several of his ventures. “That’s why I run from one thing to the next. I’m not interested in open- The Sentient Jet Card and self-proclaimed champion of new Nordic cuisine, ing my sixth or seventh bakery—to me that’s just expands his culinary domain along Copenhagen’s waterfront. business.” His main motivation, he says, has always Sensible, intelligent private aviation been moving his country’s food culture forward. But sentient.com is he a man on a social mission, or simply a shrewd by Jay Cheshes photography by erik olsson marketer who builds demand for his products without appearing to be a salesman? > The Sentient Jet Card is a program of Sentient Jet, LLC (“Sentient”). Sentient arranges flights on behalf of jet card clients with FAR Part 135 direct air carriers that exercise full operational control of charter flights at all times. Flights will be operated by FAR Part 135 direct air carriers that have been certified to provide service for Sentient jet card clients and that meet all FAA safety standards and additional safety standards established by Sentient. (Refer to www.sentient.com/standards for details.) 100 wsj. magazine

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repast is preseNt Clockwise from far right: The Standard occupies a former customs house with views of the Copenhagen harbor; the dining room at Studio, the flagship restaurant at The Standard, run by former Noma chef Torsten Vildgaard; Studio’s petit four tray, with caramels, French nougat pate de fruit and carmelized chicken skin with chocolate.

he refers to as “big corporations, colluding, to rape the very notion of chocolate.” He also began import- ing Valrhona chocolate from France. A similar effort promoting serious coffee debuted with the launch of his Estate Coffee brand, using beans from Brazil. Both businesses thrived. With Noma, Meyer was able to draw attention to the new style of locavore cooking developed by Redzepi, with its emphasis on foraged ingredients. orn into a fractured home in southern meals a day. His new quiches, tarts and crisp salads A year after the restaurant opened, in 2004, Meyer Denmark in 1963 (his parents divorced when became an instant sensation. A popular brasserie organized a grand symposium on “new Nordic he was 14, and he does not see his father soon followed—with Meyer at the stove preparing cuisine”—a term he came up with—unveiling a set of much), Meyer grew up in one of the “darkest elaborate French food. He was an athletic, charis- defining principles, a manifesto inspired by a similar bperiods of Danish food history,” he says, an era of fro- matic young man—he’d been a badminton champion document written by Basque chefs in the ’70s. “The zen vegetables and tinned meats. He discovered fine in high school—and quickly became a standout on the aims of the new Nordic cuisine,” it begins, are “to cuisine for the first time while taking a teenage sab- Copenhagen food scene. express the purity, freshness, simplicity and ethics batical from school in France. A baker in Gascony, who So the invitation to audition for Danish TV didn’t we wish to associate with our region.” Government became the father figure he’d been missing, taught come out of nowhere. The network had been looking ministers from Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Iceland him to cook classic regional dishes like duck confit for a fresh face to build a food show around. “I think and Norway all signed on to support it. And Noma and beef bourguignon. He was seduced by the joie de I made boiled potatoes with parsley,” he says of the had a movement it could lead. vivre he encountered there and the slow pace of life. “I tryout, “but apparently I did it with a smile.” Meyers Noma remains Meyer’s proudest achievement— realized my country was sick,” he says. “People didn’t Kitchen ran every week for 300 episodes until 1997, the one project that’s brought him international laugh, they didn’t eat together.” He was determined after which he landed a gig as an occasional cohost of acclaim. “Noma was about giving something back to to change that. an export program, New Scandinavian Cooking, which the world,” he says. Which is why a recent split from Back in Denmark, Meyer convinced the dean of the still airs on PBS. the restaurant has hit him hard. Things had become Copenhagen Business School, where he’d enrolled, In the early ’90s, Meyer launched a formal club for so strained between the two cofounders that, a few to let him take over the college canteen, serving 700 chocolate lovers, defending consumers against what months ago, Redzepi threatened to walk out of > Start your story at: Grand Canyon, arizonaguide.com/WSJ Arizona or call 1.866.280.2673 102 wsj. magazine

1213_WSJ_ClausMeyer_02.indd 102 10/31/13 12:11 PM 10312013111344 1213_WSJ_ClausMeyer_02.indd 104 104 the exchange WO with salmon, seaweed seaweed salmon, with outdoor food festival; festival; food outdoor Namnam restaurant in 2011, planning an an planning 2011, in and redzepi (left), (left), redzepi and street food; Meyer Meyer food; street rldlY palate serves Singapore Singapore serves a dish at r at a dish and cucumbers. cucumbers. and Clockwise from from Clockwise above : Meyer’s adio, adio,

to Noma. to entrance the brand; Meyer’s marmalade Scandinavian Cooking New show the filming Meyer above: from Clockwise read camera Y ; five-course dinner Meyer’s chefs had helped the class class the helped had chefs Meyer’s dinner five-course a from photos off heist—showed biggest Denmark’s in role his for inmate—in Another said. he right,” them get to struggling been “I’ve Blumenthal. arms Heston chef his British from down chips thrice-cooked and for recipe up a studied tattoos and head shaved a with guy enormous an prison, Vridsløselille security course. the along sample to out set meats) organ (insects, foods odox unorth with kids for runs fun holds organization the prisoners, with working to addition money.”In my of some and time my knowledge, my away give to ness, busi my “I from says. separate way, he better a market,” find work to wanted the in left years 15 or 10 that how I organization to have inmates maybe teaches cook. realized “I Foundation—an Pot Melting the agenda. social his of more to able push he’s been with, play to cash more with and helped around, since things turn has company his at CEO new A tions.” opera about care didn’t I and spontaneously, much too done had “I he says. bankrupt,” to going close was I 2008 “In ground. the into themselves run to started had many while, a for And, involvement. his without largely launch after themselves includ run have holdings, Noma, ing his of Most through. following at he’s by not as own admission, his good always started, story,” Noma’s the Meyer. concedes of out and myself write of kind growth to had I René’s growth “For stake. of once- majority his of owner most sell to principal agreed Meyer after the Noma, now is Redzepi investor, American anew of help the With cuisine. his on ence influ any had never that stunt public-relations a as it your world.’ in ” He now rejects Meyer’s manifesto use and out go cannot you independent, totally ent, differ totally is ‘Noma “ says, he ” places,’ your with Noma associate cannot ‘You Claus, to said “I Noma brand. the hijack to trying been says had Redzepi partner old his things. small about bickering years, for at odds been had two ” The you or Claus.’ me, ‘It’s said, “I me, tells himself chef the As restaurant. the eety i a okn cas t h maximum- the at class cooking a in Recently, started year, this 50 turned who Meyer, Recently ventures new getting at ace an is Meyer While 10312013111625 Approved withwarnings ------creating Noma and the Nordic cuisine movement. movement. cuisine me.” Nordic from away that take can Nobody the and Noma creating from away—what I learned my knowledge giving from projects other do not prevent can nobody me Noma the brand, with together will I and René Though back. anything demanding without away something giving food manifesto. own its Bolivian has even movement The youth. marginalized employing training while and region, the to only indigenous using Noma, ingredients Andean of sort a create to been have helm trying the at chefs Danish two The Paz. La tion’s latest project—in Bolivia’s high-altitude capital, founda doors on Gustu—his venture, overseas first his the open Singapore-style threw he summer past this serving And food. street Namnam, opened he year Last outlook. to adopt a more global him inspired have new xenophobic too being the he’dchampioned cuisine about Nordic Rumblings hard. pretty attack every keep.” Icouldn’t promise a made once never I down. anyone let didn’t I hearts. their won I end the it—but of in part be to want didn’t just battle—they says myself,” Meyer. uphill an was “It celebrate to there was I thought inmates the of “Some prisons. Danish three in untelevised, classes, teach to continue chefs his TV, on Meyer Claus putting about all been hadn’t it prove to Eager crimi cooking. hardened through nals of transformation the defense, best showcasing his became year, last debuted it when film, The says. he debates,” national in parliament of the percent 60 by attacked was “I of boycotts establishments. to his leading viral, went outrage Meyer The assaulter,” says. her to me, hand a accused giving “She of press. indirectly, the to tale her told his baker) as employed had her Meyer by ex-inmate (an window boyfriend a of out thrown been who’d woman criti of firestorm a young when aired, even episode a first the before cism unleashed Michelin-starred-level program a The cook meal. to inmates of group another year—teaching last aired that documentary restaurant. for apop-up toits doors public opened the prison when the prepare “I believe in karma,” says Meyer. “I like the idea of of idea the like “I Meyer. says karma,” in believe “I takes Meyer controversy, to stranger no Though a here—for camera on weeks eight spent Meyer “n can take that away creating the the i from me.” me.” from movement. nobody away—whatknowledge my giving from me learned from from learned obody can prevent n ordic cuisine cuisine ordic n –claus –claus oma and and oma epicurean travel wsj. magazine • meyer

- - - 10/31/13 12:11 PM

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SIMPLE SOLUTION Slip into a flat shoe, a strapless dress and a statement necklace for a subtle evening look. Stella McCartney dress, Balenciaga necklace and J.W. Anderson slides.

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OPEN SEASON Reveal a new side in a cropped top and slit skirt. J.W. Anderson neck piece, jacket and skirt and Balenciaga bracelet PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL JACKSON STYLING BY ALASTAIR M cKIMM (worn throughout).

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1213_WSJ_NewEvening_03.indd 108 10/31/13 12:12 PM 10312013111401 pantsuit and Christopher Christopher and pantsuit Kane slingbacks. Beauty Beauty slingbacks. Kane weightless texture with with texture weightless cropped pants. Narciso Narciso pants. cropped Opposite: Dior bustier bustier Dior Opposite: note: Give hair a full, afull, hair Give note: with a cutout tank or or tank acutout with Thickening Dryspun Balenciaga necklace necklace Balenciaga Bumble and Bumble Bumble and Bumble Shift the focal point point focal the Shift (worn throughout). throughout). (worn Rodriguez top and and top Rodriguez WIDE ANGLES ANGLES WIDE Finish spray. Finish

GXTTXRgxttxR cCRXDXTRxdxt 1213_WSJ_NewEvening_03.indd 111 10312013111401 10/31/13 12:12 PM 111 MID DRIFT Glossy, natural hair and a bold necklace are the only accessories needed for this dramatic top. Opposite: Balenciaga top and pants. Beauty note: Create a flawless, stand-alone base with Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Maestro Cream Compact.

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1213_WSJ_NewEvening_03.indd 112 10/31/13 12:12 PM 10312013111402 GATHER STEAM A look that’s casually undone is more alluring than tight, short and shiny. Calvin Klein Collection jacket, skirt and belt. Opposite: Carolina Herrera dress and pants and Céline shoes. Beauty note: Tone and firm while hydrating winter-weary limbs with La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Soufflé Body Cream.

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1213_WSJ_NewEvening_03.indd 115 10/31/13 12:12 PM 10312013111403 NEXT STEPS A broad-shouldered slit dress and extra wide- legged pants propose new proportions. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci jacket, trouser and sandals. Opposite: Lanvin top and skirt.

Model, Jessica Miller at IMG; hair, Esther Langham; makeup, Francelle.

For details see Sources, page 154.

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1213_WSJ_NewEvening_03.indd 116 10/31/13 12:12 PM 10312013111419 the PeNÉLOPe MYStIQUe

The Hollywood star and mother of two finds the importance of family hovers over her life and career—and her challenging role in Twice Born.

By Howie KaHn PHoToGRaPHy By alasdaiR mclellan sTylinG By anasTasia BaRBieRi

window to the soul Penélope Cruz, who appears this fall in both The Counselor and Twice Born, wearing an Isabel Marant jacket, Julien Macdonald dress and her own ring.

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1213_WSJ_PenelopeCruz_02.indd 118 10/31/13 1:26 PM 1213_WSJ_PenelopeCruz_02.indd 119 10/31/13 1:26 PM 10312013122725 10312013122726 arlier this year, while six months pregnant with her second child, AUTEUR AUTEUR Penélope Cruz decided, having acted “Maybe in 10 years I’ll in more than 50 movies before her 39th direct a feature film,” says the actress. birthday—earning one Academy Award Saint Laurent by Hedi and nominations for two more—to Slimane jacket, A.P.C. direct an underwear commercial. As is her way, she & Tooshie bodysuit e and De Beers earrings. went all-in. “I wrote the story,” says Cruz, picking a potato chip from a silver bowl at a quiet and empty outdoor bar in suburban Madrid. “I did the casting for almost 70 characters. I knew where the camera needed to be for every shot. I drove my editor crazy with instructions.” After three decades of taking cues from the likes of Pedro Almodóvar (in five films) and Woody Allen (in two, including her Oscar-winning beach vacation in Corsica with Bardem and their two key scene in the film (revealing any details would be turn in 2008’s Vicky Cristina Barcelona), Cruz, who children, Leonardo, 2, and newborn daughter Luna, a spoiler), Cruz recalls losing sleep the night before will turn 40 in April, easily adapted to the role of Cruz is deeply tanned and possesses so many arrest- the shoot. “I was really, really worried,” she says. “I obsessive auteur. “My first short film took almost ing features that it’s sometimes difficult to make eye was scared because I knew how hard the scene was four months to complete,” says Cruz, clearly proud of contact instead of, say, becoming fixated on her deli- and how much the movie depended on it. I went into the finished work. “I wanted to take as much time as cately curved eyebrows. Cruz orders water. “With a place emotionally that was hard to get out of at the the story needed. I didn’t want any limitations.” one beer,” she says, “I am drunk.” end of the day.” Ultimately, Cruz, her own toughest The result is a six-minute spot for L’Agent, a new For an actress who craves limitlessness and pas- critic, liked how the scene turned out. “I have no line of silky underthings that Cruz designed with her sion in all her work, Cruz takes the opposite stance compassion for my own mistakes,” she says. “Luckily, younger sister, Mónica, for the British lingerie house during interviews. Maintaining control and privacy I also have a good sense of humor, so now I don’t beat Agent Provocateur, during which the male protago- is crucial, but her generous spirit ultimately wins myself up too much. It’s a good balance.” nist wanders dreamily through a mansion filled with out. “I know you are not about gossip,” she says, lean- Cruz had a harder time finding equilibrium garter- and bustier-clad models, only to be jolted ing back in her chair, trying to set the tone. “I can see through her early thirties. “I came home one day,” from his reverie by his boss, played by Javier Bardem. it in your eyes.” Which means she wants to talk about she says, “wondering about my own life because all Mónica confirms that her sister’s energy, no matter her two new movies, but even those keep leading her I was doing was waking up, going to a trailer on a what’s at stake (award nominations, bra sales) is back to the subjects of family and vulnerability. set and feeding all these other characters.” She had total and unwavering. “Everything Penélope does is In this month’s Twice Born, based on the best- been filming roughly four movies a year since the with the same thrill as when she started,” says the selling Italian novel of the same name, Cruz appears age of 16, when she debuted, opposite Bardem, her younger Cruz. “It’s very difficult not to lose this qual- as Gemma, a character she calls, “one of the hard- future husband, in a Spanish-language comedic sex ity along the way.” est and most interesting I’ve ever played.” Cruz had romp called Jamón Jamón (she lied about her age to “Maybe in 10 years,” says Penélope, “I’ll direct a worked with the film’s director and writer—the hus- get the part). After a series of high-budget American feature film. There would have to be enough passion band-wife team of Sergio Castellitto and Margaret flops ranging from 2001’s Captain Corelli’s Mandolin to give a year or two of my life.” For now, she says, Mazzantini—once before in 2004’s Don’t Move. “It to 2005’s Sahara, Cruz recalls feeling grateful for she’d like to direct more narrative commercials. was Penélope’s idea to propose herself for the role of employment, but, otherwise, empty. “I didn’t have “And music videos,” she says, eagerly. With a quick Gemma,” Castellitto says. “She read Twice Born on the peaceful feeling I have now,” she says. swipe of the hand, Cruz flips her lustrous mink-col- vacation in New York and was so plunged into it that In the intervening years, Cruz learned how to ored hair from one side to the other, a habit she’ll she gave up seeing her friends to finish it.” turn down roles. “It’s okay to say no,” she says, “it’s repeat throughout our conversation. “I’m fighting Where Gemma’s story hinges on her infertil- so much better to follow your instinct.” What she a virus,” she notes, “but I’m feeling much better ity, Cruz, as the film went into production in Rome, said yes to, however, changed her career trajectory today.” The actress, wearing a golden three-chain Sarajevo and Croatia, had just become a mother for even more significantly. In 2006, Volver, written and necklace with a blousy white tank top, flip flops and the first time. “It changes everything in your life,” she directed by Pedro Almodóvar, brought Cruz her first slim-fitting, light-blue jeans that taper off above her says. “It’s also going to change the way you approach Oscar nomination and the resonant distinction of ankles, hardly looks ill. Just back from a late summer your work and the way you understand a character playing Raimunda, one the great blue-collar heroines like this because she is obsessed with becoming a of contemporary cinema. In 2008, Cruz won an Oscar mother but her body is not working that way and she for her portrayal of Maria Elena, a deranged but bril- has to live with the frustration.” Cruz flips her hair liant abstract painter in Woody Allen’s Vicky Cristina again. “I always wanted to have children,” she says. Barcelona. Allen calls Cruz “a great natural actress” “When you already have your own child in your arms, and “a sexy beauty” who “makes everything she plays “I came home one you understand even more what it must mean to not very real and very passionate.” Cruz found herself have the ability.” Castellitto says Cruz tackled the at the Oscars again in 2009—this time nominated day wonderIng role with extraordinary empathy. “As a woman,” he for her work as a sultry yet heartbroken mistress in about my own says, “not as a star.” Rob Marshall’s Nine (her tremendous and acrobatic lIfe. all I was Emile Hirsch, Cruz’s Twice Born costar, says he dance number left her hands raw and rope-burned). doIng was could hardly wait to see Penélope on set every day. Cruz capped off her stratospheric professional run “It’s like when you have a best friend at summer with personal milestones, marrying Bardem in 2010 wakIng up, goIng camp,” he says. Castellitto describes Cruz as “humble and having their first child a year later. to a traIler on and ambitious,” but the actress testifies those traits The couple, who last appeared together in Vicky set and feedIng can clash, resulting in bouts of inner conflict and anx- Cristina Barcelona, both have roles in this fall’s The all these other iety. “You do your first movie, your second movie,” Counselor, novelist Cormac McCarthy’s first screen- she says, “and you think they’re going to be your last. play for theatrical release, about a lawyer who characters.” Even today I think that. You can always feel a little botches a massive drug deal and feels the cartel’s -penÉlope cruz bit insecure in this profession.” While preparing for a steady and complete wrath as a result. “Cormac was

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Approved withwarnings . , Embraces, Embraces, Almodóvar’s Pedro in Cruz Venus Blonde 2009. still smiling. “I’m only thinking about them now.” them about thinking only “I’m smiling. still says, she eat,” to want I what about think I’ll bed, to I get them “When dinner. for own toher plan fashion, motherly in distracted, too become having goodbye, kisses cheek quick two and smiles She’s all other. the then kid one bathing other, of the then consist kid one feeding will reports, she ahead, night Cruz’s it.” avoid can I if formula her give to want don’t and ing breast-feed- I’m hours. three to two-and-a-half every eats She daughter. my to feed have “I says. she soon,” have to “I go Hayek. Salma friend her close from says, she gift, birthday a rock, yellow lustrous a reveal to over their pendant her flips Cruz having night. the of drinks Spaniards first well-heeled with have up us around filled tables the and down, gone has sun finger gut.” the from her And tips. ears, her head, her just toes, action her from the comes and intention “The says. he work,” her to physicality real a and instincts “She’s incredible got ordinary: from far are talents Cruz’s admits a Fassbender in Still, way.” approached grounded and is practical which very work, their then and family their are priorities Their people. humble very in to work work.” have we all to because have “I roots, middle-class her to attached fiercely still says, she time,” same the “At delicious. Broken Broken h Counselor The Cruz looks at her phone and notices the time. The The time. the notices and phone her at looks Cruz interest love her plays who Fassbender, Michael tRue Ro tRue Vicky Cristina Barcelona, above. Barcelona, Cristina Vicky in woodyAllen by directed Jamón Jamón film, first her in Bardem Javier with , says both Bardem and Cruz “are “are Cruz and Bardem both says , MA nCe nCe , left, and and , left, • 10/31/13 1:26 PM

CLoCkwISe froM ToP LefT: unIverSAL InTernATIonAL PICuTureS/THe koBAL CoLLeCTIon; n/C; AnTenA 3 fILMS/MeDIAPro / THe koBAL CoLLeCTIon; © ACADeMy enTerTAInMenT/evereTT CoLLeCTIon. ProDuCTIon: rAgI DHoLAkIA ProDuCTIonS. SeAMSTreSS: IAn HunDLey. says says work,” her to physicality “She’s areal got APRAYER LIKE Sources, page 154. page Sources, see For details Robson. Sophy manicure, Carrasquillo; Mark makeup, Iglesias; Pablo Hair, earring. Beers De and cuff Co. & Tiffany for Peretti Elsa dress, Lanvin jacket, Haider Ackermann Michael Fassbender. Counselor

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To Rome, With Love The Colosseum is one of Italy’s most treasured landmarks, but it’s been crumbling for centuries. Now Diego Della Valle, the billionaire president and CEO of luxury group Tod’s, is making history by funding its restoration.

BY J.J. MARTIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE BECK

ARENA ROCK The two-and-a-half-year- long restoration efforts have already begun on the Colosseum to repair damage sustained since the Middle Ages.

125 he first time Diego Della Valle vis- Of all his investments, however, the one most likely “I know a lot of brilliant entrepreneurs in Italy,” ited Rome’s Colosseum, he was 11 to immortalize him in Italian history books is the says former Gucci Group CEO Domenico De Sole, years old and arrived in a bus stuffed one in front of him today. who has known Della Valle for nearly two decades, with clamoring kids from his gram- “The dimensions here make you feel small,” the “and they won’t touch the [public] system with mar school in Casette d’Ete, a village industrialist remarks, gazing up at the monument’s a 10-foot pole. The country is overwhelmed with in Italy’s central Marche region. The huge travertine blocks stacked 164 feet above. debt. It’s totally off the charts. Everyone talks about Tjourney, which required circumventing the rugged For a moment, he sounds like any one of the it, but no one does anything. The fact that someone Apennine mountain range, took over eight hours. four million tourists who come annually to the is finally stepping in and saying, ‘I’ll start, I’ll do it,’ “But it was like a party,” the 60-year-old presi- 1,933-year-old amphitheater to gawk at it. In real- is amazing.” dent and CEO of the luxury leather goods company ity, he has put a significant amount of his company’s Tod’s says now, his smile softened with nostalgia. money into saving it. In January 2011, Della Valle here are 5,668 archeological sites “We loved every minute of it.” signed a Tod’s group sponsorship contract that gave in Italy, including 30 in Rome that Fifty years later, Della Valle has made the exact 25 million euros toward a long-awaited, desperately are considered to be of major scale same journey in 30 minutes, this time zooming over needed full-scale restoration of the monument. Now, and only 11 of which charge entrance the mountains in his private jet. “I would’ve taken two years later, with scaffolding covering a portion fees. Though the Colosseum gener- the helicopter, which is even faster,” he adds, “but I of the Colosseum’s four-story-arched façade, he is ated 28.8 million euros in ticket sales was worried about the weather.” finally witnessing his gift put into action. Tin 2012, it only received about 2 million euros for its Della Valle hops out of a shiny black Mercedes “I’m someone who has had enormous luck in life annual operating costs. The balance of its income is at the Colosseum’s main northern entrance, once and when I could give back, I did,” says Della Valle. siphoned off into a pool of money that Rome’s local reserved exclusively for 2nd-century emperors and “This is a monument that not only belongs to Italy’s superintendent uses to sprinkle across the rest of now closed to the 21st-century public. He’s wearing patrimony but the entire world.” the city’s archeological patrimony. a navy blazer with a linen handkerchief, a starched The historic structure, begun by Flavian Emperor Meanwhile, the government’s “ordinary,” or baby-blue shirt collar shooting up like a winged Vespasian in AD 72 and inaugurated by his son Titus base, budgets allocated for the restoration of the buttress over his silk paisley print scarf, tailored in AD 80, has been crumbling for centuries. From country’s thousands of cultural and archeological jeans and all-suede navy-blue Hogan sneakers. the Middle Ages onwards, its gilded bronze shields, sites (not to mention libraries and archives) have Transforming his family’s small shoemaking busi- painted statues and precious travertine stone were been on a steady, precarious slide over the last “I see [thIs ness into the booming global brand Tod’s—with pillaged by robbers and damaged by earthquakes decade, from a high of 201.1 million euros in 2004 to donatIon] as investments as diverse as furniture, motorcycles and fires. Recently, the monument has begun to 55.9 million euros for 2013. an oblIgatIon. and newspapers—has made Della Valle a billionaire. crack and fall apart, precipitated by a noxious cock- In August 2009, Rome’s mayor, Gianni Alemanno, tail of increasing pollution and began soliciting private funding, packaged as ItalIans who harsh weather patterns. corporate sponsorships, to address the critical have had “Every once in a while we receive situation throughout Rome. In characteristic brash success and MONUMENT MAN an ‘extraordinary fund’ from the style, Della Valle was the first to raise his hand and luck In lIfe Della Valle government,” says Pia Petrangeli, a the first to point at the splashiest, most prominent at the Colosseum. should gIve The façade, opposite, member of the Ministry of Culture’s structure in town. which has been general secretariat, who super- A formal auction, however, was required. From back to theIr stained and eroded vised the agreement with Tod’s. the 20 companies that were initially interested, by years of pollution, country.” “But it’s never enough. We’ve never final bidding came down to Tod’s and the budget will be cleaned. –dIego della valle managed to do a thorough job that Irish airline Ryanair—which intended to wrap the addressed all of the problems.” monument in advertising banners. In January 2011, Starting with the soot-covered a contract was signed with Tod’s, which stipulated façade, phase one of an ambitious, non-advertising use. A gift of 25 million euros was full-scale restoration program is now earmarked for a single monument—nearly half dismissed on a technicality: A judge finally decided right now. But there is a lot of will and desire to started working at 21 years old and have never already underway. In a painstaking of the government’s entire budget for such projects. that Codacons did not have the proper standing to do things. All that’s needed is to show people that stopped. I will continue to work, but I want to spend process that will take two-and-a- But rather than igniting cheers, the donation set contest the contract. Meanwhile, Della Valle’s funds things can happen and how to do it.” time in a café drinking coffee, stay out late at din- half years, only a vertical sliver fire to a huge national controversy. A noisy, disorga- had sat unused for over two years. Though Della Valle stresses he has no plans to ner, go to a special small town just because there’s a consisting of 10 of the monument’s nized media campaign, led principally by the Italian “I’ve developed a pretty good shield from these formerly enter Italian politics—“it’s no longer a good restaurant.” total 80 arches will be worked on consumer protection organization Codacons, kinds of things,” a nonplussed Della Valle says now. credible realm,” he says, dismissively—he believes “You know, just a normal life,” he adds. “At a nor- at a time. The travertine stone will snarled the agreement in a sticky bureaucratic slog. “But I do believe that something as simple as, ‘I that using private capitalistic muscle is a more pro- mal speed.” be blasted at low pressure with Criticism erupted in the headlines and in low politi- want to give you money, let’s spend it’ shouldn’t be ductive way of igniting concrete change. That will allow more time for philanthropy. purified water to reveal its origi- cal ranks over a “rights of image clause,” allowing so difficult.” “I see it as an obligation,” he observes. “Italians Already, his battle over the Colosseum has galva- nal creamy golden hue. Detached Tod’s use of the Colosseum for preapproved cor- It’s not surprising that Della Valle stood his who have had success and luck in life should give nized several of his contemporaries into action: fragments will be reattached and porate events but that many misconstrued as a ground on this debate. He’s well-known for being back to their country.” Fendi has stepped up to restore Rome’s Trevi fortified with mortar and the cramp loophole allowing the company to smear logos and tenacious in his professional pursuits. “Ours was Meanwhile, he has been busy expanding the Tod’s Fountain and Diesel owner Renzo Rosso has pledged iron bars that dot the surface will ads over the site. a family of well-mannered anarchists,” he says, group. In September, a Tod’s ready-to-wear collec- to restore Venice’s Rialto Bridge. Private funding of be repaired. Unsightly metal rail “Anyone who had an ‘effective interest’ [i.e., a laughingly bragging about his father, Dorino; tion designed by new creative director Alessandra Italy’s enormous cultural legacy is not only of pro- tubing in each of the 69 ground- connection to the Colosseum] could go to the judge grandfather, Filippo, a cobbler; his brother, Andrea, Facchinetti debuted in Milan, and Della Valle named found social value, Della Valle points out, “it’s an floor arches has been replaced by and contest the contract,” explains Petrangeli. “In who runs Hogan; not to mention his sons, Emanuele, Marco Zanini, formerly of Rochas, as the designer economic opportunity. It’s an extraordinary way to newly forged iron gates, and next, the end, that was a lot of people.” 38 (a New York–based web entrepreneur), and of the revived Schiaparelli brand. Della Valle says employ our citizens.” a tourist center and café will be Most of the debate occurred because Italy has Filippo, 16. It’s telling that Della Valle’s role model for that venture his goal is a fashion house “not con- Gazing at the immensity of the Colosseum, he built underground in front of the almost no culture of private philanthropy and few is the multifaceted Adriano Olivetti, a 20th-century cerned with chasing numbers, but that creates the considers the restoration’s impact. “It will be a sign Colosseum’s entrance. Lastly, in rules to regulate it. “Private funding of public cul- engineer, politician and innovative industrialist most beautiful products in the world.” Meanwhile, for Italy,” he declares. “This spring, a lot of people the Colosseum’s cellar, where roar- tural endeavors happens very rarely, and for much who funneled profits from his typewriter company the Roger Vivier line continues to grow. will come to Rome to visit the Colosseum, eat a ing animals and sword-wielding lower amounts,” Petrangeli explains. “To be honest, into Italian public works. “Luxury is sometimes not doing everything,” good plate of spaghetti, buy a bottle of olive oil to gladiators were once detained, the there was no precedent for this donation.” “My idea was always to use this [donation] as a the mogul says. In fact, he claims that he will wind take home,” breaking into a boyish smile. “And the brick walls will be restored. After two years of court hearings, the case was restart,” he says. “The country is having problems down his professional schedule within a year. “I Italian economy will be better for it.” •

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1213_WSJ_Colosseum_02.indd 126 11/1/13 11:28 AM 1213_WSJ_Colosseum_01.indd 127 10/31/13 11:41 AM 11012013102913 10312013104218 U L T R A M A R I N E These multifaceted creations feature gobstopper-size stones, including a 27-karat sapphire. Louis Vuitton Haute Joaillerie blue- spinel white gold and diamond ring. Opposite, from top: Bulgari ring with oval-cut sapphire and diamonds, Graff emerald-cut sapphire and diamond ring, Harry Winston cushion-cut sapphire solitaire ring, Chopard sapphire and diamond ring and Chanel Fine Jewelry ring in white gold, sapphire and diamonds.

RHAPSODY IN JEWELS Gems in hues from pale azure to deepest blue are enough to make anyone’s heart sing.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HORACIO SALINAS FASHION EDITOR DAVID THIELEBEULE

128 CLEAR CUTS From classic cushion cuts to modernist swirls of pavé diamonds, there is a style to fit any finger. From top: Cartier white gold, diamond and aquamarine ring, H. Stern ring in white gold and blue topaz and Van Cleef & Arpels Homage Hockney ring with emerald- cut aquamarine and diamonds. Opposite, from top: Dior Fine Jewelry white gold, diamond and aquamarine ring and Tiffany & Co. emerald-cut blue tourmaline and diamond contour ring in platinum. For details see Sources, page 154.

131 thrEE to tango Meet the team of fashion designers who together have kept the cool of Calvin Klein alive and built the brand into a global juggernaut.

by Elisa lipsky-karasz pHOTOGrapHy by Dan JacksOn sTylinG by Tiina laakkOnEn

leven years ago, when Calvin Klein, along with his longtime business partner, Barry Schwartz, sold his company to Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH), the designer had just turned 60. In 36 years at the helm of his fashion line, he had gone from selling coats in the now-defunct New York store Bonwit Teller to having his name recognized around the world. In a way, it was time. Klein had endured a bitter lawsuit Ewith his largest licensee, the Warnaco Group, and unbeknownst to the public, his company’s earnings had begun to slip. In the next year, he would give an interview describing his battles with addiction. PVH’s $700 million offer must have seemed like a lucrative reason to lay down his sword. “He’s at the top of his game. He’s a living logotype, and now he wants to rest a bit,” said his spokesman, Paul Wilmot, at the time. But the question everyone outside the company asked was could Calvin Klein Inc., survive without its charismatic founder? The naysayers were voluble, especially given that PVH was known for making workaday button-downs, not marketing sexy minimalism. The luxury landscape is tricky terrain where many an able executive has lost his way, and PVH, then worth $1.5 billion, would have to balance the high with the low: selling $4,000 coats as well as $17 pairs of underwear. Even more surprising was a plan that did not replace Klein with an equally central figurehead. Instead, PVH (which owns several other labels, including Tommy Hilfiger, Izod, Arrow, Van Heusen, Warner’s and Olga) decided to forge ahead with the relatively unknown team that Klein had already put in place: Francisco Costa as head designer of the ultra-luxe women’s collection; Italo Zucchelli at the head of the men’s collection; and Kevin Carrigan at the helm of the more mod- erately priced bridge lines. The initiation of these three creative directors for the fashion lines was a departure from the cult of personality that marked Klein’s reign, during which he fulfilled countless roles. “He was a merchant, a businessman, a marketer and a creative,” says Carrigan, who has been with the company since 1998. “Any time a designer leaves a major name like that, the risk is high,” says retail consultant Robert Burke. “We can count more times when it hasn’t worked.” When Tom Ford left Gucci in 2004, his position was filled by three designers: Alessandra Facchinetti for womenswear; John Ray at menswear; and Frida Giannini for accessories. The strategy floundered both commercially and with critics, until Giannini took over the creative direction of the entire brand. “Part of the reason it works [at Calvin Klein] is that everyone understands the Calvin aesthetic extremely well,” says Calvin Klein Inc. CEO Tom Murry, pointing out that Klein hired all of them. “Each creative director is a specialist in his area.” (After a brief tenure as

HOUSE PROUD From left: Francisco costa, Italo Zucchelli and Kevin carrigan, the creative directors of calvin Klein’s fashion lines, with longtime house muse christy turlington in a calvin Klein

gxttxr crxdxt gxttxr crxdxt collection top and skirt.

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1213_WSJ_CalvinKlein_02.indd 132 10/31/13 1:13 PM 1213_WSJ_CalvinKlein_02.indd 133 10/31/13 1:13 PM 10312013121443 10312013121443 CLEAN CUTS Zucchelli is known for his sharp tailoring, like on the calvin Klein collection tuxedo jacket, this page. Fashion- forward denim looks, such as the shirt and jeans, opposite page, are a mainstay of calvin Klein Jeans, overseen by carrigan.

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1213_WSJ_CalvinKlein_02.indd 134 10/31/13 1:13 PM 1213_WSJ_CalvinKlein_02.indd 135 10/31/13 1:13 PM 10312013121443 10312013121443 Such uniformity carries over to the brand’s adver- ON THE FRINGE a consulting creative director, Klein officially stepped tising campaigns, instantly recognizable for their costa’s spring/summer 2014 collection employed away in 2006 and now does not speak publicly about black-and-white photography portraying models, innovative techniques to the company he cofounded.) actors and sports figures—from Kate Moss to soccer create futuristic pieces Any hiccups came from quality and distribution player Fredrik Ljungberg—as sex symbols. Igniting a like this slashed top. calvin Klein collection issues with licensees, who help produce enough goods cultural conversation has always been part of the plan. threaded top. to outfit an entire Calvin Klein lifestyle, from jeans and “You want to know what comes between me and my underwear to jewelry, watches, fragrances, cosmetics Calvins? Nothing,” lisped a 15-year-old Brooke Shields Model, christy turlington; hair, didier and home design. “We had some missteps early on,” in the 1980 ad campaign filmed by the late Richard Malige; makeup, Jeanine says Murry, who along with PVH CEO Manny Chirico Avedon. “The controversy seemed ridiculous to me,” Lobell; manicure, rica has overseen a significant expansion of Calvin Klein Shields says now. “But that kind of controversy was romain.

Inc. Part of Murry’s strategy is maintaining a delicate what ended up separating Calvin from the others.” For details see Sources, status quo, and a key tool in his arsenal is using the “If you think of modern advertisement, it is based on page 154. luxe women’s Collection line, designed by Costa, as an Calvin Klein’s aesthetic, across the board,” says Costa. ambassador for the rest of the house. “You don’t get MAKING HISTORY “Nobody had put a man in his underwear on a billboard into that business to make money. You get into it to cre- Clockwise from before,” says Zucchelli of the 1982 ad campaign shot by top: Brooke Shields ate image,” he says. “It generates $400 million a year photographed by Bruce Weber, which showed Olympic pole-vaulter Tom in the cost equivalent of editorial coverage. It’s hard Richard Avedon, in Hintnaus wearing only tight, white Calvin Klein briefs. to quantify, but for example, we got the September 1980; Kate Moss by Cut to the 2013 Super Bowl, when a 30-second spot Mario Sorrenti; Moss cover of Vogue, and in US Weekly there were 10 celeb- and Turlington with showed model Matthew Terry in black briefs before an rities wearing Collection dresses.” Jennifer Lawrence, the designer in 1995. audience of 108 million viewers, reigniting the debate ge Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Stone and Kerry Washington about what makes for family-appropriate advertising. MA reI all regularly wear Costa’s creations. “That’s what sells Today, the creative side of the company is run by an I ge ur/W the [lower-priced] dresses.” in-house advertising agency, CRK, the leaders of which MA AZ reI

“I look at what we do as the think tank of the com- have been there since the Klein era. “Calvin made it I

pany,” says Costa. “We have the white label, we have very simple,” says photographer Mario Sorrenti, who In M

jeans. They all serve their own purpose. I could not shot 1993’s controversial Obsession fragrance ads hen/W cO compete with my own company. When I do a fashion starring his then-girlfriend Kate Moss and has worked D); d); KEVINKev MAZUR/WIREIMAGE n A show the objective is to create excitement and talk.” for the company ever since, including on the current SSIO LESTER COHEN/WIREIMAGE COHEN/WIREIMAGE LESTER His spring/summer 2014 collection was inspired by underwear campaign starring Turlington. “He just e y); LeSter OBS

references as diverse as Pablo Picasso, Phillippine vil- let me free. He had an incredible instinct about what WA un lages and contemporary movie posters. It employed he believed in. Now, [the conversations] are more like eIn ( typical Costa ﬂourishes: architectural pieces that both ‘What is Calvin and how do we maintain what he stands KL reveal the body and stand apart from it, including a for?’ ” he continues. “But I deﬁnitely think it’s one of the vIn AL c

ﬁnale of slashed and fringed gowns. “I was apprehen- more creative brands out there, that embraces photog- vIn KLeIn (r OF cAL Sy sive it wouldn’t be in the realm of Calvin,” he says of raphy as part of their language.” the clothes. “But we successfully managed to create a THE POWER OF NOW The brand has also seized control of much of its OF urte Sy language of modernity in this very edited Calvin way.” Jennifer Lawrence in Calvin Klein licensing. Just over a year ago, PVH executed a $2.9 O /c I

“For me, it’s very easy to work within this kind of Collection at the 2011 Oscars, left. billion acquisition of Warnaco, which was still the urte Above, from left: Spring 2014 brand’s partner for jeans and underwear and operated aesthetic. It’s like my second skin,” says Zucchelli. His men’s collection, white label and rrent eL); eL); cO SO men’s collections are known for their innovative tech women’s collection. nearly 2,000 Calvin Klein stores worldwide. The deal, IO LAB fabrics, futuristic references and lean lines. The lat- which was applauded by the ﬁnancial press and inves- r est, presented this summer, featured cloud-patterned tors alike, concluded years of contentious relations MA WhIte By By T-shirts inspired by artist James Turrell and Zucchelli’s ODAY, CALVIN KLEIN INC. has deﬁed its with Warnaco over quality control, bloated inventory, ph A own Fire Island summer home. “In my work, I keep the doubters by growing into a juggernaut distribution issues and weak sales—and cemented nyc ( gr idea of the sophistication and elegance, but I like to with nearly $8 billion in annual sales, Calvin Klein’s position as one of the top-selling brands BFA OtO inject the iconography of [the rest of the house]. This placing it in the same stratosphere as its in the world. It also fundamentally transforms Calvin d); ph

is a hyper-modern brand, so for me, innovation is very two biggest competitors: Ralph Lauren Klein’s structure from a licensing model, with most nS); ©2013 important.” Corporation and Giorgio Armani S.p.A. of the legwork done by outside companies, to an IO “Innovation in all aspects of clothing will take us According to Murry, the brand’s exponential growth operating model. This will place more of the onus of ect OLL

T vIn KLeIn A forward,” agrees Carrigan, who oversees “everything is due in part to its positioning in the imagination of production and distribution on Calvin Klein and PVH, A (c under Collection,” including the lucrative jeans and its customers. “When you ask people, ‘What is Calvin with the results yet to be seen. (In fact, unexpected cAL ecc underwear lines. He is clear that his designs serve a Klein?’ Most say it is a luxury brand, which it is not. It’s investment into the Warnaco businesses initially cut different purpose from the ultra-luxe black-label col- an incorrect perception, but I love it.” PVH proﬁts in 2013.) lections. “I love both the commerce and the design That reputation is the result of a tightly con- All of these efforts are focused toward increasing e ShIeLdS/ aspects. I’m a businessman and an artist,” says trolled corporate identity, communicated by a clearly the brand’s global domination. The CEO sees the most OOK ty); ©2013 dAn L n (Br Carrigan, who sees himself as the conductor of an deﬁned in-house lexicon. “Clean, modern, sexy, clas- promise in the East. “It’s all about Asia,” says Murry. IS IO

immense worldwide orchestra and whose heroes are sic” is how Murry deﬁnes the ethos, while Carrigan “China is the number-one luxury market in the world At

designers and architects like Florence Knoll and Le keeps his licensing partners in check by supply- and the fastest growing. I think it will be for the rest und

Corbusier. “I’ve never been the type of designer who ing them with new catchphrases for each season, of our lives, unless there is a global war.” His goal for te And chr On FO wanted to design a one-off dress. I like the industrial like “seduction,” “memory” or “bold minimalism.” Calvin Klein is 8 to 10 percent growth a year—which KA means that in another decade the brand would be a th design of creating something that has mass appeal. Minimalism was a touchstone for Klein himself, par- WI r d Av ed

“I’m very reverential to the archive; I constantly $20 billion behemoth. “We always tell our team there A ticularly throughout his last decade designing, in the eIn ch instill the ethos of what Calvin put in place,” adds ’90s. “Ecru,” says Christy Turlington, who has been is nothing we don’t do that we can’t improve,” he adds. KL rI

Carrigan. “You can walk down the street and know the a face of the brand for the past 20 years. “That was “The minute you get arrogant and let your guard down vIn AL © theTHE RICHARD AVEDON FOUNDATION (BROOKE SHIELDS/CALVIN KLEIN AD); PHOTOGRAPH BY MARIO SORRENTI/COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN (OBSESSION A (c Calvin Klein brand.” such a Calvin color. Who else says that word?” that’s when you get in trouble.” (CALVIN KLEIN WITH KATE AND CHRISTY); ©2013 DAN LECCA (COLLECTIONS); ©2013 BFANYC (WHITE LABEL); COURTESY OF CALVIN KLEIN (RUNWAY);

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1213_WSJ_CalvinKlein_02.indd 136 11/1/13 11:11 AM 1213_WSJ_CalvinKlein_02.indd 137 10/31/13 1:13 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT 10312013121458 WILD AT HEART

Beverley McConnell’s lush garden along the idyllic coast of New Zealand, Ayrlies, reflects a half-century of taming the landscape with an impeccable OLD GROWTH A bridge provides a eye—and more than a touch of savage beauty. gateway to woodlands that feature dark, plum-colored foliage, ferns and fuchsia. The Japanese maple in the foreground is BY LINDSEY TAYLOR overhung with redbud PHOTOGRAPHY BY GEMMA & ANDREW INGALLS forest pansy.

139 COLOR CASCADE A profusion of greenery surrounds an aloe tree MAKE A SPLASH in the rock garden. The swimming Left: A waterfall pool was designed flanked by a Japanese to complement the maple at left and surrounding garden water-loving plants of aloes, cycads, tall (lobelia, astilbes and queen palms and alchemilla) at right. dwarf conifers.

HEN IT COMES TO creating the Jekyll and Rosemary Verey of Down Under.” a suburb of Auckland, but after becoming parents poorly, with most not surviving to maturity. As with planting. Briers had the skills to create the bones of composition and how to lay out a well-balanced bor- garden of your dreams, Beverley Raised in a small coastal town on the North Island were eager to leave the more urban setting for coun- many novice gardeners she discovered through fail- the garden—bridges, walls, paths, beds and water- der. “A garden is continually changing,” McConnell McConnell says, it helps to of New Zealand, McConnell cites her father as an influ- try life. When they first arrived at Ayrlies, in 1964, it ure what grew best in the local conditions. Eucalyptus falls—freeing her up to focus on trips to the nursery. says. “There is that moment of perfection, but it is think like a painter. “You need ence, and says she was encouraged at a young age to was a perfectly blank canvas: a 120-acre dairy farm species, New Zealand natives like puka, totara, titoki, In the following years, she nurtured an astonishingly short-lived. You are always looking and refurbishing to walk a garden at all times of look every day at what’s blooming. “My father was set on a bucolic stretch of coastline, with unspoiled kōwhai and conifers, Japanese Cryptomeria and a few diverse palette of plants: several varieties of magno- it. A garden is never finished, only abandoned.” the day and seasons and watch the local general practitioner serving a predomi- views of the Hauraki Gulf and Turanga Estuary. American natives (sweet gum, bald cypress and pin lia; the Himalayan plant Luculia gratissima, with its From the writings of Vita Sackville-West, known Wthe light, the way it hits a leaf with a particular tex- nantly Maori population, the indigenous Polynesian When the young couple first came upon the farm, oak) became her friends. heady late-fall fragrance; vines like Thunbergia coc- for her garden at Sissinghurst Castle in Kent, England, ture or filters through,” she says. “You adjust and people of New Zealand,” she says in her soothing New they saw in its rolling cow paddocks a place where In the mid 1970s, owing to a shortage of good cinea and passiflora quadrangularis; South African she learned a key lesson: “Have something looking move plants to enhance that experience. You have Zealand accent. “We grew up with an understanding their children could know something more than a gardeners in New Zealand (and employees for her gems like Haemanthus coccineus; the peculiar Puya its best every week of the year, and if you don’t like to use your eye the way an artist does.” When the of the natural world.” Her father taught her that an nine-to-five existence. husband’s business), the McConnells went on a hir- berteroniana, with its six-foot-high stalks and iri - a plant get rid of it, you won’t like it any better next 82-year-old McConnell describes the sort of patience element of surprise is essential, telling her that “a gar- Though a portion of the land remained an active ing expedition to England, where they met Oliver descent, peacock-blue flowers; as well as various iris, year.” From the late Christopher Lloyd, the mas- a truly magnificent garden requires, she’s speaking den must entice you to look around corners.” He also farm for years—for livestock and cornfields—three Briers, an accomplished landscaper who worked as crinum, aloe and bromeliads. Though the unusual con- termind behind the gardens at Great Dixter in East from hard-won experience. For nearly 50 years, she’s armed her with one of her first books on horticulture, acres were fenced off for McConnell’s use. Before they the gardener for a leather factory. Eager for a new ditions are at times a challenge, they’re also a gift, as Sussex (who became a friend and a regular visitor carefully tended her own patch of Eden in Whitford, Richard E. Harrison’s guide to bulbs and perennials, had even unpacked, she had drawn up a shopping list adventure, Briers uprooted his family and resettled is often the case with gardening, allowing gunneras, to Ayrlies), she honed her grasp of color and texture. New Zealand, transforming it into a “garden of sub- inscribing it with a line of verse from Rudyard Kipling of some 500 trees, native and exotic, with the inten- in New Zealand, where he helped McConnell real- alocasia and tree ferns to flourish. “I love color, but you have to be careful,” she says. “I stance” that many agree ranks among the finest in the that she continues to draw inspiration from: “Gardens tion to fulfill her dream of creating an extensive ize her dreams. “This is as much his garden as it is Despite her success at orchestrating layers of go out at dusk so I’m not distracted. Shape and form world: 12 acres of densely planted, rolling landscape, are not made by singing, ‘Oh, how beautiful’ and sit- garden. With the help of family and friends, she began mine,” she says. On the same trip, Malcolm became greenery into a coherent vision, McConnell still are more important than flowers, which are fleeting. with trees, shrubs, perennials and vines woven into a ting in the shade.” transforming the area around the house from bare interested in the effects of water on garden design tweaks her masterpiece around the edges, and always A plant needs good shape to earn its keep.” And Beth tapestry that borders a thriving wetland. According In 1953, at the age of 23, Beverley married Malcolm to lush, learning as she went along. The first years and devised a plan to dam Ayrlies’s valleys to create a seeks to know more. When traveling to England in Chatto, with her much-admired Essex garden, also to Daniel Hinkley, America’s renowned plantsman, McConnell, who later became the cofounder of a suc- were mostly dedicated to keeping her newly planted network of streams. the early ’80s to visit one of her grown daughters, she played a formative role: “It wasn’t until I saw Chatto’s “she is without a doubt the first lady of horticulture cessful engineering and construction company. The trees alive in the heavy, wet clay soil—a planting of By 1978, the garden had grown to 10 acres, with spent endless rainy days at important gardens, pac- garden that I realized I had so much to learn. She puts in New Zealand, the Vita Sackville-West, Gertrude newlyweds spent their early years in Medowbank, 64 cherry trees lining the sweeping driveway fared four new ponds, and McConnell and Briers got to work ing out perennial beds and teaching herself about plants together better than anyone I know.”

140 “You don’t make In addition to the general public, who are welcome “He loved a big project and loved water—he’d seen the a garden this to visit the garden year-round, many accomplished effects of it in English gardens.” While Auckland is los- gardeners have visited Ayrlies over the years, to lend ing its habitat for wading birds, her wetland is now complex and an eye or to take in her dedication and the artful ease filled with native scaup and dabchicks, as well as royal relaxed without with which she weaves plants together. McConnell is spoonbills and Cape Barren geese from Australia. discipline. in that a self-proclaimed romantic and lets things go a little Thomas Woltz, principal of Nelson Byrd Woltz climate You can wild, allowing for some misbehavior among the foli- Landscape Architects, who has visited Ayrlies several age. But as Hinkley points out, “you don’t make a times, can talk endlessly about his love of the garden, grow endless garden this complex and at the same time relaxed, but for him the exquisite feat of sculpting 35 acres of plants. i wouldn’t without discipline. In their climate, you can grow marsh is what strikes the deepest chord. “The climax be able to endless kinds of plants. I wouldn’t be able to control for me is the vast constructed wetlands that stitches control mYsel f.” myself. Bev restrains herself in all the right ways. Her the complex of gardens, pools and walks to the larger garden is playful but has a sophistication and seam- context of surrounding farmland, and the Hauraki –daniel hinkleY less flow. I’d go back again and again if it weren’t for Gulf in the distance,” he says. the 18-hour flight.” As McConnell looks to the future, and makes At the turn of the millennium, as a final big ges- plans to pass the reins to her five children—who have ture, she embarked on a major wetland restoration of eagerly taken up the challenge of keeping her dream the lower water-logged area of the property to con- alive—she reflects on what she has created. “I hope nect her gardens to the sea. It was her gift to herself, that in the future the garden will have something to her late husband (who died in 1995) and to the natural offer others. As I watch people move through it, I real- habitat that now flourishes there. “My husband loved ize how important it is in this age of technology—how what we were doing, right up to his death,” she notes. much it has to offer the soul.”•

TUMBLE FOR YA One of several waterfalls that flows into a pond, with plantings that are mainly New Zealand natives. Opposite: Another view of the rock garden, with palms towering over the silver foliage of gazania and artemisia.

142 Dior’s Crown Jewel The rarified world of fine jewelry is usually a serious domain, except when designer Victoire de Castellane is in charge. Welcome to her exuberant universe of Technicolor gems.

BY joshua levine PhoToGRaPhY BY fRanÇois halaRd

y her butterflies you shall know the Dentelle Chantilly Multicolore earrings from her hard that it’s easy to miss the rigor that goes into her. They’re the first things you notice 2012 collection: massive clusters of yellow diamonds, them. On the table in front of her is a pile of glassine when you enter Victoire de Castellane’s Paraiba tourmalines, yellow beryls, spessartine gar- envelopes filled with stones recently brought back studio on the Rue François 1er in Paris. nets, amethysts, demantoid garnets, red spinels from a Hong Kong gem fair. De Castellane is sifting These are not your demure, pin-stuck and blue and pink sapphires. “I love to associate through sapphires for a pair of earrings. Even when Lepidoptera—it’s more like an unruly colors that weren’t meant to live together,” says de she’s executing an existing design, as she is here, out Bbutterfly mob. When you look more closely, however, Castellane. “That’s the interesting part of the job— come those envelopes. “I have to,” she says. “One new you can see a precise order within the riot of color: the idea isn’t simply to do something crazy. That stone changes the relation to all the other colors in Little white butterflies start to mix with slightly larger doesn’t interest me.” the piece. It requires me to go all out to get the right white and orange ones as they swarm up the wall, In 1998, when de Castellane joined Dior, haute balance. It’s extremely precise.” finally exploding in a spray of giant blue ones. It looks joaillerie was something of a pinned butterfly itself. Even before de Castellane starts sketching a new like anarchy, but it’s anarchy under tight control. High fashion had harkened to the noises on the design, she has a specific vision of the final piece in It’s worth keeping those butterflies in mind as you street, and so had costume jewelry—what the French mind. “I have a kind of jewelry flash,” she says. “I see look at the delirious jewelry de Castellane has been call bijoux de fantaisie. Fine jewelry, however, still the piece already finished.” She then makes a mock- designing since she was a kid—with the last 15 years looked appropriate for a cotillion. “It was mémère,” up in clay, which is transformed into a resin version as artistic director for fine jewelry at Christian Dior. says de Castellane. “Stuck-up. Mumsy.” by the Dior workshop. “You never know what’s going Before that, she spent 14 years designing costume Shortly after she arrived at the fashion house, to come out until you see a design in three dimen- jewelry and serving as a kind of unofficial minister of de Castellane brought out a collection called Les sions,” says de Castellane. “That’s what makes this so fun for Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel. Incroyables et Merveilleuses, which translates to interesting.” I meet de Castellane in her studio as she works “incredible and marvelous.” The collection combined There is still space to improvise, however. “I never on new orders for her two most recent collections, the brassiness of de Castellane’s costume jewelry like a design to be fixed. I like everything to evolve,” called Dear Dior and Cher Dior. She never wears any designs with some heavy-duty bling. Rings sported she says, explaining why she spontaneously decided jewelry in the studio. “It would just get in the way of 80-carat morganites, rubellites, aigue-marines, ame- to add a large colored stone to a diamond bracelet that any new ideas,” she says. Though she now has four thysts and beryls. Their chunky gold settings were didn’t have one initially. An assistant empties out an children, she’s instantly recognizable from photos encrusted with fruits and flowers and bows and bugs, envelope filled with warm pink spinels, a frighten- taken 30 years ago. At the time, she was something all made out of precious gems. ingly expensive rock prized by gem collectors but of a bijou de fantaisie herself, dancing on nightclub “She was fearless,” says Vivienne Becker, a jewelry used sparingly in jewelry. De Castellane turns out tables in miniskirts and Mickey Mouse ears. She still expert and author of The Impossible Collection of the lights in order to make the spinels look their cuts her bangs low and straight across her forehead, Jewelry. “Back then, a lot of people hated them, but worst. “That way, when I find the right one, I know FLIGHT OF the way she always has, and there’s still a naughty she led the way with color and volume. She spear- it can only look better,” she says. When she finally IMAGINATION mischief in her face. headed the idea of rich, figurative storytelling hits on the perfect one, she flashes a lottery-winner’s Victoire de The pieces she’s created over the years may not jewels. Now we’re in the midst of a renaissance for grin. “Look, the pink is shading toward orange. It’s Castellane has filled her atelier at the look the same, but they all bear her rambunctious fine jewelry, and Victoire was in at the ground floor.” a flower pink, a makeup pink, very, very feminine— Dior offices with signature. They are not for the faint of heart. Take The sheer exuberance of these pieces hits you so ravissant! I’m so happy I found it.” colorful creatures.

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Bal Le called soirée club a to her squired and made he tutu red a in her dressed in her ears, put cherries Dufour at and night by day, assistant Lagerfeld’s world: She became chic He man. impossibly into an swept a de 19-year-old right-hand Castellane Lagerfeld’s was who Gilles Dufour, brother mother’s her up, growing angel ian some gold to make things.” gold tosome make find to needed just “I says. or she that,” like sacrilege of anything question a wasn’t “It ring. a make to gold the use could she so down melted them had and neighborhood the in watchmaker a the to took medals She loathed). she which school, convent found she which medallions, religious gold of collection her sidered memoir titled unsentimental an in fall and his rise chronicled he divorced, they After taste. exquisite for reputation a himself bought and the Époque Belle at the of Gould height Jay speculator railroad American of notorious daughter the ried mar Boni Castellane. de Boni forebear, famous her of person the in there all It’s tocrats, decadence and its consequences. aris and aesthetes with filled one, noble I love.” what That’s feeling. same that have still I work, I When some Day? Mother’s make for thing you and school at you’re when is it how know “You says. job,”she 5-year-old’s a is “This her from. comes juice where been always it. has admitting Childhood about shy bit a not she’s ized by the idea that they might be very expensive.” very be might they that idea the by ized terror never was I stones. real with spontaneity a at shocked of the violence But it the gesture. gave me quite was mother my think “I recalls. she ” me,’ est inter doesn’t gold the bracelet ‘Pfff, said, the just I threw trash. I the in and off, all ear them of cut pair “I a rings. herself make to charms the wanted She her. given had mother her bracelet charm gold a to pliers of pair a takes old, little years 5 then first, Victoire, the In lore. Castellane de particular entered in have stories Two objects. sacred as gems to jewels!” Cleopatra’s have extraordinary How thought, I And a stone. with green plastic gold in bracelet serpent a was all of beautiful most the And jewels. the were so and tic, plas was “It Castellane. de says little,” was I when magic. akindly exerted have baubles and since, ever changes, jewelry daily grandmother’s her by entranced was Castellane De fortune. Cognac Hennessy the into married who Silvia countess grandmother, a Spanish deRivas, Rodriguez paternal godmother her fairy a in found She 3. was she when up split parents Her idyll: no De Castellane was lucky to have another guard another have to lucky was Castellane De and old an is family Castellane’s De girlish, little a off comes she If n h scn soy a 2ya-l Vcor con Victoire 12-year-old a story, second the In held never she power, talismanic their all For box jewelry a for father my asked I remember “I was childhood own Victoire’s Young The Art of Being Poor Being of Art The se tedd a attended (she sexy” très “pas . - - - For details see Sources, page 154. page Sources, see For details opposite. U NNA ------De Castellane’s most recent collection was inspired by flora and fauna, such as her stuffed parrot, parrot, stuffed her as such fauna, and flora by inspired was collection recent most Castellane’s De woNderS tUrAl this page: Dior Fine Jewelry rose Dior Bagatelle rings, left, and Precieuses necklace. Opposite: Cher Dior earrings. earrings. Dior Cher Opposite: necklace. Precieuses and left, rings, Bagatelle Dior rose Jewelry Fine Dior page: this to head up a new fine mogul and owner of Dior, approached de Castellane to them. pliers her take and pieces antique buy would she self, 5-year-old her of echo an In creations. own her with tinkering stopped never had Castellane de time, this all during And jewelry. kicky their fantaisie de all bijoux appeal, For platinum. and gold sapphires, ated silhouettes. Adds Bowles, “However much of a of much “However Bowles, Adds silhouettes. exagger ated and fabrics sumptuous colors, saturated around built aesthetic rich a with 1946 in house ion fash his founded Dior the Christian sense: made choice incongruous, seemed it Though brand. erable weren’t real,” says de Castellane. Castellane. de says real,” weren’t were that that shows, materials from for runway made quickly pieces were “These amethysts.) purple jagged with studded cross huge a of form the in lace neck she a was pieces example, for the show, runway of a for (One made jewelry. with than tumes making costume costume making but her, suited it and fun giddy was work The jew elry. costume of designer head to gopher glorified work.” Karl’s on impact Japanese chic, immediate Itan had clothing. fetish and throwaway style street by engaged was “She Bowles. say shift,” seismic a was there studio, the in appeared Victoire “When friend. longtime and tor rubbed off on him, says Hamish Bowles, a Hamish says him, offon rubbed else.” anything to be pretended never she life real in but curves, with doll Kewpie of kind a “She was brand. of cashmere Group, Erdos a Chinese director artistic as serves now who Dufour, recalls Castellane. de Hollywood her called who Coppola, In the late ’90s, Bernard Arnault, the fashion fashion the Arnault, Bernard ’90s, late the In She dreamed of working with with working of dreamed She It didn’t take long for her to be promoted from from promoted be to her for long take didn’t It Lagerfeld was enchanted, and some of her style style her of some and enchanted, was Lagerfeld girls,” other the all from different was “She 10312013120228

jewelry had more to do with cos with do to more had jewelry

jewelry department at the ven at the department jewelry are the minor leagues of leagues minor the are materiaux nobles materiaux Vogue Vogue edi ------: girl. My problem is, how to make them marvelous. marvelous. all.” them That’s make to how little is, a problem My was I girl. when from the bonbons they’re wonderful me, same “To says. Castellane de question,” that pose even don’t I But millions?’ things worth are with that working you’re realize you Don’t la! la ‘Ooh myself, to say could “I gemstones. Technicolor taken filigree with loaded and archives Dior’s in gold patterns lace from with backed are pieces current Her Look. New Dior’s of fabric of rings cascades the to nod cocktail enormous Her mind. Castellane’s de crazy.” more or intimate more tobe myself myallow can I do designs, own I “When inspiration. of debt a owed clearly they whom to Lalique, Réne of work the like second, were They psychosis. drugs and sex, of dream opium Baudelairean of kind a was piece Each live?” it does “How says. she worn,” of piece a to happens what explore to was idea Gagosian “My jewelry: of the conception the at pieces push she could how far just It unique demonstrated Gallery. 10 of collection Simons.) with she does nor designer, departed Dior’s house.” the of work Galliano, John with the officially collaborated (Shenever in sense I classicism seriousness the and by interested I’m today, And reds. fatal his and made; the he embroideries fresh valley; extremely the of lilies rose; the flowers: Dior’s got You’veDior. Christian and Dior’s director] creative [Simons, current Raf of work the mix to love “I says. she mood,” my to according them combine and Dior family.) and Lenthal, Thomas the director art husband, her with neighborhood genteel the in the from girl chic very a she’s appear, may Victoire kid club But at her day job, Dior’s legacy is never far from from far never is legacy Dior’s job, day her at But own her showed Castellane de ago, years Two of house the of hallmarks the all take to love “I seizième arrondissement seizième • objets objets jewelry when it isn’t isn’t it when jewelry first and and first .” (She still lives lives still (She .” jewelry 10/31/13 1:01 PM 147 H E M I NGWAY ’ S H AVA NA

Of all the places Ernest Hemingway lived, none had such a hold on the author as his home outside Havana—now being restored through an unlikely alliance. Here, a guided tour of the Cuban haunts that shaped a literary legend.

BY finn-Olaf jOnes

MOVEABLE FEASTS Above: Hemingway’s Cuban home, Finca Vigía, in 1965; the house is now the focus of a rare U.S.–Cuban joint effort to preserve it. Right: The author, in an undated photo, on the steps outside the Finca.

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1213_WSJ_Hemingway_02.indd 148 10/31/13 1:07 PM 1213_WSJ_Hemingway_02.indd 149 10/31/13 1:07 PM 10312013120802 10312013120801 WO BOYS IN FADED red shorts are dart - time at a place often visited in one’s mind. My father make you read a lot of Hemingway?” I ask. “Yes, she where he’d written much of For Whom the Bell Tolls. a square four-story tower rises from the lawn—the The Finca’s current pristine condition is a testa- ing around an older man fishing with a had been a Hemingway scholar and passionate collec- was very passionate about him.” He winces in a way The hotel still dominates the top end of Obispo Street, only building ever constructed by Hemingway—where ment to Hemingway’s continual hold even now among homemade bamboo pole, all balanced tor of all things Hemingway: The author’s skis hung in that makes me think of a ruler across his knuckles a great walking thoroughfare through the old part of he occasionally worked while Havana woke up in the the most divergent of readers. The author who in life atop the sea-drenched concrete wall the rafters of our garage next to mine, and his other delivered by the chain-smoking woman who awaits Havana, where, even today, everyone seems to sway distance. But otherwise he typed standing up at the provoked three divorces, international controversies of Havana’s Malecón—a coastal drive possessions—house keys, letters, books, even his can- us at the driveway’s summit. “It is too complicated to the same mambo beat pulsating from almost every Royal on top of his office bookcase in the main house. and a few memorable punch-outs, has, in death, created connecting a strip of weathered Beaux celled checks—were sprawled around our house. I’d to explain about the early morning in the hills above open window and doorway. But the Finca, although Even his original number 3 pencils are still sharpened. an unlikely alliance between two belligerent nations. TArts buildings to the narrow streets of Old Havana, visited all of Hemingway’s homes with my father, save Havana,” Hemingway had written about this spot. “I just a 30-minute ride away, was a world apart from The African game trophies, the nine thousand Since 2005, a team of U.S. engineers, conservationists where paint peels off gorgeously tattered neo-baroque for this, perhaps his most important one. Now, thanks work as well there in those cool early mornings as I Havana’s raucousness. “In the 1940s, it was still in the books in dozens of languages, the plate molded by and architects under the auspices of the Boston-based façades and canopies of laundry shade women sell- to a journalism visa, I was able to break through the ever have worked anywhere in the world.” countryside,” says Patrick. “Back then we’d walk out Picasso hanging alongside copies of paintings by Gris, Finca Vigía Foundation has been working with Ms. ing fruit, old shoes or themselves. My cabbie drives U.S. embargo to visit Hemingway’s Cuba—the place Now, the place is dominated by Ada Rosa Alfonso the gate and shoot guinea fowl.” Braque and Miró—the originals were among the few Rosale’s team to restore the 19th-century building, inland, past the end of a strangely empty harbor, until his presence is most palpable. Rosales, the director of the Finca Vigía museum who The open windows and doorways afford cross valuables Castro’s government allowed Hemingway’s replacing the sagging roof, installing a new drainage smoky tropical scents replace the sea air and we arrive “That’s my old schoolteacher,” my driver notes as laughs easily, barks commands to her many minions views through the Finca—the interior is off-limits to widow to take back to the U.S.—attest to the world- system and rebuilding interior walls. They’ve also at the shack-lined main village of San Francisco de we see a formidable woman smoking outside Hem- and is indeed very passionate about Hemingway. visitors—and as I stand here, it appears the writer has liness of its former occupant. You can still see the sorted, preserved and cataloged some 3,000 original Paula, nine miles south of Havana. Suddenly he makes ingway’s former garage—now converted to museum “Everyone in Cuba knows him,” she tells me. “He just stepped away on a fishing trip. His mail is spread columns of writing on the walls in the bathroom documents moldering in the tropical humidity. They a hard right onto Hemingway’s driveway winding up offices—as we roll up to Finca Vigía, a one-story was everywhere, and maybe after José Martí, he is out on his bed. His third-filled liquor bottles crowd the where Hemingway had scribbled his weight and blood are in the midst of digitizing the archives so they can his verdant little hill—a pocket of lushness amid the eggshell-colored mass of arched masonry set like a the most popular of our writers.” Our writer. The side table nudging his favorite armchair in the living pressure, which he battled during his later years—in be seen for the first time outside of Cuba. cinder-block landscape. sculpture atop a broken stone terrace among mangos, French, Americans, Spanish and Italians all claim room. His clothes are still neatly arranged on hangers the late 1950s, he ranged from 190½ to 242 pounds “This is a labor of love for us,” says Mary-Jo I feel the eerie familiarity of arriving for the first palms, vines and a riot of flowering bushes. “Did she some ownership of Hemingway, but no place lays a in the closet above rows of boots and shoes. Next door, (“Chinese meal” he wrote next to one jump in weight). Adams, the foundation’s director. “Most of the con- greater claim to him than Cuba, where he lived and sultants have been doing this pro bono, and we can’t wrote for 22 years. import construction materials. But we have the lon- Hemingway’s most enduring fictional characters gest-running cross-cultural program in Cuba. U.S. were foreigners in their adopted countries: Robert politicians from both sides of the political aisle—such

Jordan from Montana, waiting with Spanish par- S as Republican Senator John McCain and Democratic “A lot of writers, tisans to blow up a bridge outside Madrid in For ge Congressman Jim McGovern—have supported us.

like his friend Whom the Bell Tolls; Frederic Henry, the wounded y imA Hemingway unites a lot of people.” JAmes Joyce, American deserter from the Italian army in A Farewell TT He is also beloved by the handful of living Cubans

lived outside to Arms, rowing his pregnant English girlfriend into iS; ge who knew “Papa” as children, some of whom still live Switzerland; even Santiago from The Old Man and the nearby. “When he had just moved here he stopped HARR the country Sea was a native Spaniard, a loner amidst a close-knit his convertible to buy plants from my father,” recalls where they were community of fishermen in Cuba’s north coast. AUL Alberto “Fico” Ramos, when I caught up with him at born, And it And so it was with Hemingway himself. A native his hilltop hut above Hemingway’s home. “I was 7 or 8,

of Oak Park, Illinois, who couldn’t wait to escape its R LeUe; p the same age as Gigi [Hemingway’s youngest son], and

helped their ge “wide lawns and narrow minds,” Hemingway spent he asked if I knew any other neighborhood kids who writing. he wAs most of his subsequent life in nomadic exile conjuring HoL could play baseball with him.” Later, Ramos worked as At home in cubA.” on; forceful, alienated characters transcending borders ST an assistant cook at the Finca. –pAtrick hemingwAy through love, war and sport. He found all three in “I and everyone I knew, young and old, called him S

inspiring abundance in Cuba. Here he could fish in eUm, bo Papa,” says Oscar Blas Fernández, another member ge ennedy

the Gulf Stream, his “great blue river,” make love to mUS

unnumbered women and write seven books “one true y imA Hn F. k TT

sentence” at a time, living apart from his compatriots y And RAR ion. Jo as he became one of the most lionized literary names eS/ge CT Lib in the world. The Finca offered splendid isolation e CTUR LL where he could be left alone to do as he pleased. AL Fe pi

When he was exhausted or hurt from his rough Ay Co

adventures around the world, this is where he came eSidenTi pR /Time Li /Time

to recover in its tranquility. When he got news that T Hemingw ed

he’d won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1954, he ST STA ennedy stood on the rattan rug of this living room and ne eR

announced to the small gathering clutching celebra- S; Hn F. k ge tory cocktails: “This is one prize that belongs to ed eiS en LFR y imA

Cuba, because my work was conceived and created ion. Jo TT CT

in Cuba. Throughout all the translations, this, my e Age: Age: A adopted country, is present.” LL eS/ge iS p TH

“A lot of writers—like his friend James Joyce— Ay Co CTUR

lived outside the country where they were born, and on. it helped their writing,” notes Patrick Hemingway, 85, ST

the last surviving of Hemingway’s three sons. “He was Hemingw ST eUm, bo

at home in Cuba, and we all moved in gratefully.” ne mUS eR

In 1939, at the age of 40, fleeing his Key West : FT home and marriage to his second wife, Pauline, for FeLi pi kwood/Time y And the decade-younger war journalist Martha Gellhorn, p Le To DOCK OF THE BAY RAR PAPA’S PLACE Clockwise from top left: Hemingway The author in front of Hemingway moved to Cuba. The Finca was selected by om

Lib in 1953, standing in front of a 1929 portrait of the

the harbor at Cojimar, FR AL

Gellhorn over Hemingway’s initial objection, osten- Age: Lee LoC author by waldo peirce; the wall of La bodeguita del p the setting for The Old Se medio, where he liked to stop in for a mojito; a view

sibly to find somewhere more spacious for the both US Man and the Sea. into the dining room, lined with his African game io of them and to lure him from the city’s temptations. kwi eSidenTi

oC trophies; the top room of the tower he built next to the PREVIOUSpReV PAGE: LEE LOCKWOOD/TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES; ERNESTPRESIDENTIAL HEMINGWAY COLLECTION.LIBRARY JOHN ANDF. KENNEDYMUSEUM, BOSTON. THIS PAGE: ALFRED EISENSTAEDT/TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES pR Before that, he’d lived in the Hotel Ambos Mundos, CL main house, where he occasionally wrote.

150

1213_WSJ_Hemingway_02.indd 151 10/31/13 1:07 PM 10312013120817 Approved with warnings help from the Finca Vigía Foundation, rests above the former tennis court. Ironically, it was the most sea- worthy vessel I saw in Cuba where I counted only five flimsy don’t-sail-to-Miami fishing boats dwarfed by Havana’s once-bustling harbor. Hemingway first took the helm of this boat in 1934 after commissioning it from New York’s Wheeler Shipyard. It became his floating man cave on which he brought his wives and girlfriends for skinny-dips and picnics on the nearby keys, searched for German subs with crates of booze and grenades during World War II, staged prolonged stag trips with his hard-drinking entourage and played Fats Waller from a record player while “bring- ing up the monsters” from the sea. S The Pilar was originally moored off the concrete ge dock that still juts out below the old Spanish fort in

y imA the tiny fishing village of Cojimar, six miles east of TT Havana. La Terraza, a restaurant teetering along the rocky shore, was another favorite drinking spot,

S; AFp/ge where he traded sea tales with the locals and gave ge away fish after his odysseys.

y imA Wandering into La Terraza, I find wooden tables

TT CATCH OF THE DAY overlooking the bay filled with stylish Italian tour- Hemingway with several

eS/ge ists munching lobster salad. Their bus driver sips an companions in the early espresso and gossips with the bartender at the coun- 1930s, after a successful CTUR marlin outing. ter where Santiago from The Old Man and the Sea got Fe pi a beer before embarking on his adventure, and where Islands in the Stream’s Thomas Hudson adopted a cat. of Gigi’s baseball team. “I’m 82, and I’d probably still Hudson observed that this is where drunk fisherman on/Time Li on/Time call him that were he to walk in here now,” he adds, who never “went to church” and “wore old straw hats” officials to leave lest he be seen as a Castro supporter. watching hummingbirds peck the hibiscus dotting and old clothes and “were the most unfishermanlike “He was very sympathetic to the revolution in Cuba the Finca’s terrace. fishermen he had ever known.” until things got too difficult,” recounts Patrick. “I Fernández recalls the author leading his sons don’t think he had much respect for Castro. When he HEMINGWAY’S and packs of local kids on bottle rocket and stink- ive minutes’ stroll down the shore left, he knew he would never be returning. And that on (x2); ToRe JoHnS

bomb attacks against Finca garden parties and the ST from La Terraza is a narrow beach clut- depressed him greatly.” HAUNTS neighbor’s estate. But there was always an intense tered with driftwood, plastic bottles and He never quite felt at home when he returned to the

consciousness of nature, with local hunting trips eUm, bo other flotsam brought in by the tide, and U.S. In late 1960, battling writer’s block, alcoholism,

and meticulous study of the tropical birds, beasts mUS where the fictional Santiago dragged the deteriorating physical health and his inner demons, and plants that surrounded them. “Those trees were sad remains of his once-majestic shark- he checked himself into Minnesota’s Mayo Clinic, finca Vigía in the way of the bases, but he never allowed us y And chewed marlin. Cojimar’s fishermen dock their creaky where he got electroshock treatment. During a layover THE GLASS ALWAYS RISES Clockwise from top left: Hemingway at el Hemingway’s home is a 30-minute drive

RAR F to cut the branches,” says Fernández, who laughs as wooden boats in an inlet just beyond the beach. Three in Casper, Wyoming, he tried to step into a moving Floridita, between Spencer Tracy (who was starring in The Old Man and from downtown Havana. on he points out their former baseball field near the the Sea) and the author’s fourth wife, mary welsh; at his Royal typewriter Lib men just back from the sea, stripped to the waist and propeller. He finally managed to end his suffering less ST AL san francisco de Paula, 53-7-91-0809 Finca’s gate house. in the Finca; with one of his many cats; in 1960, with a newly ascendent smoking cigars, are merrily fixing their ancient engine than a year after leaving Cuba by shooting himself Fidel Castro, who won a fishing competition sponsored by the author. Despite “living rough” on the African veld, on beneath the open deck when I come across them. “Any in the entry foyer to his strikingly banal ranch-style el flOridita eUm, bo European battlefields and in Midwestern forests, eSidenTi swordfish?” I ask the skipper. “Lots,” he responds, with home in Ketchum, Idaho, a setting unimaginably far The author’s favorite bar, which also mUS pR Hemingway was also fond of the good life. Ramos the confident laugh sports fishermen always seem to from the Finca. His suicide shotgun was dismantled calls itself “the cradle of the daiquiri.”

remembers seven servants constantly on staff at the Here he drank a heroic number of “double frozen dai- before his fourth and final marriage to another jour- y And have but which I don’t often notice among professional and buried in a local field. His wife, Mary, planned a 557 Calle obispo, 53-7-867-1300 nalist, Mary Welsh; love affairs, real and imagined ennedy The Pilar Finca, where a generously stocked kitchen enabled quiris, the great ones… that had no taste of alcohol and RAR ones. “We caught six in 24 hours. The Gulf Stream is similar ceremony for , and for a while his boat HOtel amBOs mundOs

him to host family and friends in grand style. For rela- felt, as you drank them, the way downhill glacier ski- (“Gentlemen, please remove your shoes and dip your Lib always easy,” he adds, puffing on his stogie. was destined to be scuttled in the waters he’d fished Hn F. k tively little, he lived majestically in Cuba. Even during ing feels running through powder snow.” feet reverently in the water of this pool, where Ava AL Fishing provided the only occasion for Hemingway and written so much about. Room 511, where the author often stayed, is maintained as a small

grandiose evenings with the likes of Gary Cooper, Today, daiquiris are poured out a dozen at a time Gardner swam naked this morning,” Hemingway ion. Jo to meet Fidel Castro. In 1960, Cuba’s new leader Instead, the boat now hovers phantomlike above

CT museum to him. e Hemingway always kept things informal with his ser- from blenders by elegant red-coated barkeeps. And bragged to his friends at the Finca). And there was eSidenTi entered a fishing contest sponsored by the author. Hemingway’s lawns, just as his legend and very pos- LL vants. He even maintained a household betting pool instead of the “fine old whores that every resident a yearning for his distancing youth, which might pR Off a harbor west of Havana, where sailboats from all sessions hover above Cuba’s shifting sensibilities. 153 Calle obispo, 53-7-860-9530

for boxing matches watched together on the kitchen’s drinker at the Floridita had slept with sometime,” explain his infatuation with the delicate Venetian Ay Co over the world (including a few illicitly from Florida) Somewhere amid Havana’s rutted streets plied by cOjimar black-and-white television. there are younger jineteras—hustlers—in barely there aristocrat Adriana Ivancich, 30 years his junior—the ennedy now dock at the renamed Marina Hemingway, Castro desperately maintained vintage cars, someone is even This small fishing village—a 15-minute And he was always a short, often daily drive in shorts flirting with the older Canadian and European inspiration for Renata, the dying Colonel’s teenage caught a 54-pound marlin, winning the competition. tooling around in Hemingway’s 1955 red Chrysler con- Hn F. k Hemingw cab ride east of Havana—was the his red convertible from the neon-signed El Floridita tourists who flock to the place, many to be photo- lover in the 1950 novel Across the River and Into the Afterward, Hemingway himself presented Castro vertible, which the author had left to his doctor. Ms. ST setting for many of Hemingway’s stories,

bar, his downtown headquarters. Giant shutters had graphed toasting the garish statue. Here, Papa has Trees—whose visit triggered outbursts of jealousy in ne with his trophy. Castro claimed to have kept a copy Rosales—of course—has located it. ion. Jo

eR most notably The Old Man and the Sea. :

opened the Floridita to the street when Hemingway become the spiritual drinking buddy to the world. the Hemingway household. (“I never even saw them CT of For Whom the Bell Tolls in his backpack while “I’ve been looking for it for years and finally e

FT Locals erected an outdoor bust of the

first became enamored by the place. Now it’s been Apart from the epic benders at the Floridita, holding hands,” notes Ramos.) LL engaged in guerilla fighting in the Sierra Maestra tracked it down through the registration office,” she author just up the street from the walled in and fancied up with red velvet curtains Hemingway suffered deep wounds both psycho- Four dog graves in the garden are all that remain mountains. But the conversation didn’t go far. says. “I’m trying to get the owner to sell the car to the Ay Ay Co restaurant La Terraza (Calle 152 #161, and a giant marine painting replacing the mirror logical and physical from elements that pummeled of the 57 cats and half a dozen dogs that also shared “I’ve always regretted the fact that I didn’t... talk to museum.” She sighs. “Hemingway also had two oth- om Top Le 53-7-559-232), a favorite hangout when behind the bar. An indiscreet life-size bronze statue him prematurely into old age. There were two plane the Finca with Hemingway and padded their way FR him about everything under the sun,” Castro said ers that I’m still trying to find.” And so Hemingway’s

Se the author’s boat was moored here.

of Hemingway leans over his favorite stool at the dis- crashes in Africa; the divorce from Gellhorn (“Are you throughout his novels. Behind the graves, an even Hemingw later. “We only talked about the fish.” As relations Cuban heritage rolls on, sometimes literally, waiting ST creet end of the bar where he could quietly drink after a war correspondent, or wife in my bed?” he’d writ- ghostlier presence: The Pilar, Hemingway’s 38-foot kwi between Cuba and the U.S. became increasingly to be rediscovered by compatriots who are so close, ne oC eR his fame made that almost impossible anywhere else. ten her, exasperated by his loneliness in her absence) walnut-hulled fishing boat, also recently restored with CL strained, Hemingway was encouraged by American but still an embargo away. •

152

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On floor, from of books, from left: William Lewis totem lamp, $265, & Co. cuff, $14,950, tiffany com, John Derian for Astier top: Detroit 1968 by Enrico Yeoward Crystal Freddie thefutureperfect .com, Louis page 90 .com, De Beers earring, $3,200, de Villatte blue bowl, $408, Natali, $50, A Sporting Life old-fashion tumbler, $125, Vuitton wallet, $1,010, Valentino dress, $5,390, debeers .com johnderian.com, Georg Jensen by Jacques Henri Lartigue, williamyeowardcrystal louisvuitton .com, Coach Valentino boutiques, Jennifer silver nutcracker and bowl $75, both artbook .com, .com, Mikimoto cultured braided leather carabiner, Fisher charm, $480, and chain, rhapsody in jewel set, $195, georgjensen.com, Dante’s Inferno illustrated pearl necklace, $120,000, $68, coach .com, John Derian Spaces & Products From Miami $420, both jenniferfisherjewelry page 128 Armani Casa ginger bowl, by Gustave Doré, $500, mikimotoamerica .com, for Astier de Villatte eye mug, .com, Solange Azagury- Louis Vuitton Haute Joaillerie $230, 212-334-1271, Aero fig arcanabooks .com, Burberry Diorific limited-edition $122, johnderian .com, Leica Partridge pendant, $4,100, 809 ring, price upon request, select glass dome, $110, 212-466- pumps, $950, burberry .com, lipstick, $36, and nail polish, Ralph Gibson signature- Madison Ave., New York Louis Vuitton stores 1500, Ryota Aoki black plate, Orley Shabahang summit rug, $26, both dior .com, Nars nail edition camera, $25,000, Foto Henny Hoogeveen/ $53-100, thefutureperfect. $7,500, orleyshabahang .com polish, $35, narscosmetics well opener page 129 Leica Store Lisse, Tom Dixon com, John Derian for Astier .com, Guerlain bee bottle, page 107 to Malmö to Melbourne. Bulgari ring, price upon request, sugar bowl $102, and jug, de Villatte marbled plate, page 52 for display only, for similar Stella McCartney dress, Bulgari stores nationwide, styles go to saks .com, and $140, both propertyfurniture $102, johnderian.com, Canvas On table, from left: Libeco $2,340, Stella McCartney New Graff ring, price upon request, porcelain picnic tray, $58, .com, Alessi Mami saucer, Madrid gold fork, $78 for 5 Napoli Vintage table cloth, York, J.W. Anderson slides, graffdiamonds .com, Harry michelevarian .com. On floor: $10.50 each, alessi .com, piece, canvashomestore.com, $205, libecohomestores .com, price upon request, availability Winston ring, price upon Roger Vivier black satin and Canvas gold fork, $78 for 5 panettone from Emporio Rulli, Thomas O’Brien for Reed & upon request request, harrywinston .com, gold sequin slippers, $2,125, piece, canvashomestore .com, price varies, rulli.com, and Barton cake stand, $150, 212- Chopard ring, price upon assorted chocolates from La 966-1500, Lady M cake, $75, 212-861-5371. On bathtub: Bernardaud cup and saucer, black is the new request, us.chopard .com, Chanel Maison du Chocolat, price upon ladym .com, Amoretti Brothers Sferra bath towel, $50, sferra $894 for set of 6, bernardaud black Fine Jewelry ring, $622,000, request, lamaisonduchocolat nickel-plated vase, $495, .com. .com, Coach leather notebook, page 109 Chanel Fine Jewelry boutiques .com tableartonline.com, Georg $168, coach .com, Acme Studio J.W. Anderson neck piece, Jensen Forma cheese board page 58 gold pen, $130, acmestudio $480, jacket, $530, and skirt, page 130 home chic home and knife, $180, georgjensen On wall: Reproduction .com, Omega watch, $8,000, $700, all fivestoryny .com, and Cartier ring, $50,500, cartier. page 49 .com, cheese selection from photograph by Sheila 711 Fifth Ave. NYC. On floor, Balenciaga bracelet (worn us, H.Stern ring, $3,200, Lithero blueware vase, $3,750, Cavaniola’s Gourmet, prices Metzner/Trunk Archive, price from left: Louis Vuitton PDV throughout), $495, 214-559- hstern .net, Van Cleef & Arpels thefutureperfect .com, Puiforcat upon request, cavaniola upon request, trunkarchive bag, $4,150, louisvuitton 4510 ring, price upon request, Ruban silver tray, $4,600, .com, John Derian for Astier .com. On photo: Dove Drury .com, Brioni calfskin leather vancleefarpels .com puiforcat .com, Creel and Gow de Villatte clubs vase, $255, hornbuckle ceramic jewelry, shoe, $900, available at Brioni page 110 black ceramic pear, $275, johnderian .com, vintage Carl priceTK, drovedruryhornbuckle stores, JP Tod’s green leather Narciso Rodriguez top, $995, page 131 creelandgow .com, Tod’s leather Harry Stalhane for Rorstrand .com. On dresser, from left: wing tips, $1,495, tods .com. saks .com., Balenciaga necklace Dior Fine Jewelry ring, price wallet, $225, tods .com, Z Zegna stoneware bowl, $1,250, 212- Ilse Crawford brass bowl, $175, (worn throughout), $635, 214- upon request, 800-929-DIOR, cuff links, $505, zegna .com, 647-7598, Carl Aubock brass thefutureperfect .com, Texan what’s news 559-4510 Tiffany & Co., ring, $23,400, Nymphenburg porcelain weasel nutcracker, $460, stillfried pecans, $30, collinstreet page 68 figurine, $2,010, tableartonline .com, Armani Casa ginger .com, Tiffany & Co. crystal 1986 Niepoort ‘Colheita’ Tawny, 800-843-3269 .com, Ralph Lauren RL67 bowl, $230, 212-334-1271, John decanter, $180, tiffany .com, $73, winedeals .com, 2003 page 111 Tourbillon watch, $55,000, Derian for Astier de Villatte Michael Kramer hand-blown Quinta do Noval ‘Nacional’, Dior bustier pantsuit, $4,300, three to tango ralphlaurenwatches .com, fish plate, $163, johnderian multicolor tumblers, $120 for $800, zachys .com, 2007 Taylor 800-929-DIOR and Christopher page 132 first edition of The End of the .com, Landbrot Bakery set of 6, propertyfurniture .com, Fladgat ‘Late Bottled Vintage’, Kane slingbacks, $835, Net-A- Calvin Klein Collection top, Game by Peter H. Beard, $500, & Bar cakes, prices vary, William Yeoward Vita crystal $23, wine .com Porter $2,995, and skirt, $1,495, 212- and inscribed first edition of landbrotbakery.com, Josef highball tumblers, $220 each, 292-9000 Passage by Irving Penn, $500, Hoffmann wine decanter, $696, and Kelly shaker, $1,075, both page 72 page 112 both jamescumminsbookseller thefutureperfect .com, vintage williamyeowardcrystal .com, Gastone Rinaldi T904 bench, Balenciaga top and pants, each page 134 .com, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany lava ceramic bowl (containing Ilse Crawford candleholder, $1,580, poltronafrau.com $995, both 212-206-0872 Calvin Klein Collection tuxedo & Co. crystal teardrop carafe, pears), $395, 212-647-7598, $140, thefutureperfect jacket, $1,250, 212-292-9027 $820, tiffany .com, Puiforcat Fox Hollow Farm pears, $58, .com, Remy Martin Louis page 73 page 114 Etchea Art Deco silver box, froghollow .com, Ryota Aoki pot XIII rare cask 42, $22,000, Dolce & Gabbana 18k white Calvin Klein Collection jacket, page 135 $3,325, puiforcat .com, Tozai de lait, $67, thefutureperfect chelseawinevault .com, Hans gold diamond watch and 18k $2,125, skirt, $695, and belt, Calvin Klein Jeans denim shirt, shagreen octopus candle holder, .com. On wall: Floral-patterned Reisetbauer Cherry Eau-de- white gold watch with black $395, 212-292-9000 $69.50, calvinklein .com, and $190, stellastore .com. Flowers ceramic plate, similar styles Vie, $374, appellationnyc diamonds, both prices upon jeans, $79.50, Macy’s throughout by Nicolette Camille at ABC Carpet and Home, .com, J. & L. Lobmeyr alpha request, both select DG stores page 115 Floral, nicolettecamille .com. southernguild.co.za, François water tumblers, $468 for set Carolina Herrera dress, page 137 Halard photograph, for more of 6, thefutureperfect .com, page 78 $3,690, and black pants, Calvin Klein Collection top, page 50 information visit francoishalard ’08 Marc Hebrart champagne, Canyon bookcase, $2,650, $1,990, both 212-249-6552, $2,995, 212-292-9000 Libeco plaid linen blanket, .com. On mantle: Armani Casa $215, appellationnyc .com, refuge-megeve.fr, West Elm Céline shoes, $740, Bergdorf $643, libecohomestores .com, vase, $700, 212-334-1271. Georg Jensen sterling-silver Universal Expert utensils, Goodman dior’s crown jewel Fendi Casa mink and fox-fur pitcher, $price upon request, $19, westelm .com, Pinch page 146 throw, $10,960, 646-596-9610, page 56 georgjensenantiques.com, Holland Park beech armchair, page 116 Dior Fine Jewelry Cher Dior Oscar de la Renta black and On wall: Dragonflies by Canvas Dauville gold-glazed $799, thefutureperfect .com, Lanvin top, $1,800, and skirt, earrings, price upon request, crystal pavé resin necklace, Nicolaas Struyck, price upon bowl, $28, cavashomestore Soren end table by Refuge $2,665, both 646-613-9541 800-929-DIOR $1,250, oscardelarenta .com, request, mireillemosler .com. .com, Tiffany & Co. sterling- Furniture, $1,362 and $1,577, Libeco Napoli Vintage linen On Roche Bobois pedestal silver jigger, 575, and cocktail refuge-megeve.fr, Cappellini page 117 page 147 bedspread, $391, and pillows, table, $700, roche-bobois. shaker, $2,500, both tiffany Poh walnut table by Raphael Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Dior Fine Jewelry Rose Dior $93, both libecomhomestores com, from left: Jo Malone .com, Joe Cariati hand- Navot, $25,419, cappellini.it jacket, $3,490, trousers, $1,530, Bagatelle rings, prices upon .com, Cezanne’s Shadow saffron cologne, $145, blown glass decanters both available at Saks Fifth request, and Precieuses tapestry pillow, $1,950, nordstrom .com, Chanel No. 5 in purple and gray, $575 fresh prints Avenue, and sandals, $1,170, necklace, price upon request, all cezanneshadow .com, Fortuny limited-edition intense bath each, propertyfurniture page 87 Bergdorf Goodman 800-929-DIOR ENTRY DEADLINE ENTER NOW AT 154 wsj. magazine December 20, 2013 architizerawards.com

1213_WSJ_Sources_02.indd 154 11/1/13 11:49 AM 11012013105141 Cracking the Code of Skincare

still life FRAN LEBOWITZ The New York wit shares a few of her favorite things.

photography by Ditte isager

“My father Made the painting. I hung a number ing them. I’ll sit on the sofa, look up and say, ‘Who put cigarette box belonged to the novelist John O’Hara; his of his pieces in my 57th Street apartment and invited them there?’ Underneath is a bat skeleton in a glass daughter gave it to me because I’d led an endless effort him over to see them. He wasn’t the most effusive case. When I first saw it, I thought it looked like a tiny to republish him after he’d been out of print. I use it for person, but I could tell he was really touched. He said, man. I think I would have a use for a man that size. The my Marlboro Lights. The scarf is an evening scarf I’ve ‘I finally have my show on 57th Street.’ The green small gavel is an auctioneer’s hammer from Sotheby’s, had for 25 or 30 years that I wear for black-tie events. IntroducingOVM,abio-matrixtechnologythatharnessesthepowerof radio was a Christmas present from Vanity Fair. It’s given to me after I’d done a few charity auctions for The watch is big, heavy and has an engraving of a bull’s really simple: I think objects should be useful and them. The larger one is a judge’s gavel, sent to me by a fan head—it was my grandfather’s. The photo of my car—a Eggshell Membrane to deliver nourishment and vitality, minimize the people should be ornamental. The three small sculp- who was a retired judge. When I played a judge on Law Checker Marathon from 1979—hangs on my refrigera- appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and increase the appearance of skin tures—the ear, the mouth and the woman—were done & Order I used to bang the gavel all the time, and I got tor, where other people have pictures of their children. volumeandcushionfor3-dimensionalanti-agingresults. by Robert Graham, who was a close friend of mine. I dozens of letters from real judges saying, you shouldn’t It’s been the only monogamous relationship of my life.”

keep them on the mantle and I’m constantly rearrang- gavel so much—but it’s irresistible. The sterling-silver —As told to Christopher Ross Styling by Kim ficaro perriconemd.com

156 wsj. magazine

1213_WSJ_StillLife_01.indd 156 10/30/13 2:47 PM 10302013135106 Approved with warnings The Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari Collection

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