DANCE PARTY THOU NATALIE PORTMAN AND SHALL REESE WITHERSPOON WERE AMONG THE GUESTS AT A COVET BENEFIT FOR L.A. DANCE RACHEL ZOE LAUNCHES MOBILE APP, COVET PROJECT IN BEL AIR. PAGE 10 FASHION. PAGE 12

DEAL IN THE MAKING Baker’s Hudson’s Bay Zeroes In on Saks

By DAVID MOIN

NEW YORK — Hudson’s Bay Co., led by Richard Baker, chairman and chief executive officer, has emerged as a serious contender to purchase Saks WWD Inc., which has been in play for about a month. Baker and his team have been busy working on a deal and have been utilizing Hudson’s Bay’s U.S. MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 headquarters at 15 West 39th Street, at the Lord & Taylor flagship, as a base to conduct due diligence and strike a deal, according to industry sources. However, sources said Saks might be considered ex- pensive at the current price of its stock, which closed on Friday at $13.39 with a market cap of $1.94 billion, Tropical since for the past decade it’s mostly languished in the $11 range. Others costs, like compensating departing Saks executives with change-of-control payments and paying bankers, would raise the price further. The next couple of weeks will be decisive, the Punch sources said. “Hudson’s Bay has never paid full price for any- thing,” said one source. “They are bargain hunters.” Fun in the sun? Not exactly. Still, there’s logic to a Hudson’s Bay-Saks hookup. For one, Baker has long been interested in purchas- Imagining an exotic getaway ing Saks and in past years has met with Saks manage- as something that can be ment to discuss the possibility. Secondly, Hudson’s Bay could open Saks Fifth “dark and menacing,” Miuccia Avenue stores and Saks Off-5th outlets in Canada. Prada produced a cinematic Hudson’s Bay would consider converting some of its stores to Saks, or in the U.S., Lord & Taylor could collection loaded with new take some Saks locations or vice versa. Saks owns fashion, including looser, some prime real estate, including the Fifth Avenue double-breasted suits; languid flagship, and in Canada, retailers, including Canadian Tire Corp. and Loblaw Companies Ltd. have been blousons, and a storm of spinning off real estate into real estate investment bold prints. The show was trusts. Hudson’s Bay has not been shy about the possi- bility of a REIT, as well. Baker paid off the debt from the standout of the first two the L&T and Hudson’s Bay acquisitions by selling the days of men’s fashion week leases of 188 Zeller stores to Target Corp. in Milan and encompassed Putting Saks and Hudson’s Bay together would SEE PAGE 12 many of the trends seen all over the runways. Here, her shirt printed with island palms, full-cut trousers and CFDA Stages Show novelty briefcase. For more on Milan, see In Chinese Capital pages 4 to 6. By KATHLEEN MCLAUGHLIN

BEIJING — A celebration of contemporary American fashion cascaded across Beijing’s Ming Dynasty City Wall on Friday evening, bringing together a mix of three prominent but young U.S. brands in a unique SPRING 2014 show in the Chinese capital. The runway show, produced by the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund Initiative and MILAN underwritten by Hong Kong-born fashion industry mogul MEN’S Silas Chou, brought together the fall collections of three COLLECTIONS CFDA-award winning labels — Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone and Marchesa — on one runway with a cast of exclusively Chinese models over a dramatic, only-in-Bei- jing backdrop. The unusual runway show displayed the labels’ diverse looks to several hundred of China’s taste- makers, industry insiders and journalists. This was the biggest event yet in CFDA/Vogue’s on- going Americans in China initiative, a program that began two years ago with small exchanges between Chinese and American designers. The China program, an outgrowth that developed on the heels of the success of the CFDA’s Americans in Paris exchange, is intended to foster creative col- laboration between designers and brands in China and the U.S., and potentially spark consumer interest in the massive Chinese market. CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb said the China exchange was also crafted to help emerging American designers and brands develop a deeper un- derstanding of the world’s fastest-growing luxury and SEE PAGE 3 2 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013

Moncler Looks Again to IPO THE BRIEFING BOX distribution into a fashionable international label. IN TODAY’S WWD By LUISA ZARGANI Ruffini went on to add a luxury component with the launches of the Gamme Rouge and Gamme Bleu MILAN — Moncler’s second attempt at an initial collections, designed by Giambattista Valli and public offering is taking shape. Thom Browne, respectively. A well-placed industry source said the Italian According to Eurazeo’s 2012 annual report, the brand has chosen a pool of banks including Bank of investment firm owns 31.2 percent of the Moncler America Corp., Mediobanca, Banca Imi, J.P. Morgan Group. In addition to the Moncler brand, the group and UBS to manage the IPO. “This is what [chair- comprises the Sportswear division, which includes man and chief executive officer] Remo Ruffini has Henry Cotton’s, Marina Yachting, Coast Weber & always wanted to do. They’ve been ready for four Ahaus and the 18CRR81 Cerruti license. Sources years,” said the source. say only the Moncler brand is likely to list, and that Another source confirmed that Moncler “is just the group will spin off the Sportswear division. waiting for the right window.” Last year, the group reported earn- Moncler shelved its IPO in sum- ings before interest, taxes, deprecia- LOVELL mer 2011, but Ruffini has repeatedly tion and amortization of 170 million said a listing remains the company’s euros, or $217.6 million at average goal — an objective confirmed in exchange, on sales of 624 million The scene at the CFDA show in SHARRON March as parent company Eurazeo euros, or $799 million, up 22 percent Beijing. For more, see WWD.com. BY identified this as the most likely exit compared with the previous year. method either at the end of this year The Moncler brand alone posted PHOTO or in early 2014. sales of 489 million euros, or $626 Officials at Moncler and Eurazeo million, up 35 percent from 2011, Hudson’s Bay Co. has emerged as a serious contender were not available for comment at accounting for 78 percent of group to purchase Saks Inc., which has been in play for about a press time. sales. The sportswear division, de- month. PAGE 1 Ruffini sold a 48 percent stake in fined as “a nonstrategic group busi- the company to The Carlyle Group ness,” showed a 10 percent decline. Three prominent in 2008. In June 2011, Carlyle and At the end of 2012, the Moncler , young U.S. brands took part in a unique show in Beijing Friday, as a celebration of American fashion Ruffini sold 45 percent of the com- brand counted 83 boutiques and PAGE 1 pany to Paris-based investment firm 1,900 wholesale accounts globally. cascaded across the Ming Dynasty City Wall.

Eurazeo, pulling the plug on plans The company invested in the expan- to list the brand on the Milan Stock sion of its retail network and the re- Supported by its new owner, investment firm NEO Exchange that summer. Ruffini said duction in the number of multibrand Capital, Valextra is laying out the next five to 10 years last month “a listing remains [the sales outlets. Direct retail gained with the end game being an initial public offering. PAGE 7 company’s] goal.” 82 percent to 251 million euros, or The ceo retained a 32 percent $321.3 million, and wholesale grew Search ship Sea Scout is expected to start looking for the stake in the company, while Carlyle 6 percent to 238 million euros, or small aircraft carrying Vittorio Missoni that disappeared in owns 17.8 percent. $304.6 million, respectively account- the waters off Los Roques on Jan. 4. PAGE 7 Moncler would be the first luxury ing for 51 and 49 percent of total group to go public after the success- sales, compared with 38 and 62 per- A who’s who of designers popped by for cocktails by the ful listings of Brunello Cucinelli cent in 2011. pool of Villa Necchi Campiglio to celebrate Jim Nelson’s SpA in April last year and Prada Italy accounted for 26 percent of 10-year tenure as GQ’s editor in chief. PAGE 7

SpA and Salvatore Ferragamo SpA GIANNONI Moncler sales; the rest of Europe for the year before. Despite Italy’s mar- 32 percent and America for 10 per- Upscale children’s wear brands set to unfurl their ket volatility, Moleskine launched A Moncler cent. Boutiques and Miami and Los

GIOVANNI spring 2014 collections at Pitti Bimbo, Thursday to an IPO in April, although its look on the Angeles opened last year. BY Saturday, are stepping up their game. PAGE 8 shares have hit a few bumps since runway. Last year, Moncler expanded in then, compared with Cucinelli’s PHOTO Asia by taking direct control of its ac- and Ferragamo’s upward trajec- tivity in Hong Kong and China. The Kevin West’s blog, “Saving the Season,” formed the tories. Lapo Elkann’s Italia Independent Group brand bought two stores in Hong Kong, took over basis of his first book by the same title, out Tuesday from PAGE 10 SpA is ready to make its debut on the AIM Italia eight stores in China and opened four stores in the Knopf. Alternative Capital Market, a segment of the Italian year. The group’s 14 stores in Asia generated 14 per- Stock Exchange, by the end of the month, according cent of sales versus 8 percent in 2011. Sales in Asia In an interview with Kanye West in W magazine’s August to sources. and Japan represented 32 percent of total activity. issue, the entertainer recalls an invitation from a designer last “The road show in Milan, Paris, London, Geneva “To transform a niche brand into a global lux- fall to attend one runway show, and no one else’s. PAGE 11 and Zurich went much better than expected and ury brand, we work on all the change vectors: the the company may list as early as the end of the expanded offering with the launch of accesso- Rachel Zoe has teamed with social gaming company week,” said a source on Sunday, adding that the ries and by-products, distribution channels with Crowdstar to launch a mobile fashion game, called Covet firm plans to place around 25 percent of its shares the development of retail, a wider product range Fashion. PAGE 12 on the market. Pricing of shares may be take place and, lastly, international expansion,” said Virginie on Wednesday, he said. Morgon, chief investment officer of Eurazeo, in the Moncler was founded in 1952 in Grenoble, annual report. ON WWD.COM France. Ruffini took over in 2003 and began re- Product diversification continued in knitwear, vamping the brand, evolving it from a collection of footwear and handbags based on cobranding op- FASHION: A celebration of contemporary American fashion utilitarian, down-filled apparel with mostly local erations. cascaded across Beijing’s Ming Dynasty City Wall on Friday evening, bringing together the fall collections of three CFDA-award winning labels — Proenza Schouler, Rag & Bone and Marchesa — in a unique show in the Chinese capital. Jos. A. Bank Eyes Acquisitions, Taps Financo For more, see WWD.com. lents and short-term investments. By ARNOLD J. KARR “Those assets are critical to our efforts to en- CORRECTION hance shareholder value, both through strategic Antonio K. Ciongoli is the creative director of Eidos. This information JOS. A. BANK Clothiers Inc. Friday confirmed that opportunities, such as acquisitions, and organic was incorrect in a story on Men’s Week page 1, Thursday. it was actively pursuing acquisitions and said it had growth,” said Andrew Giordano, lead independent retained Financo LLC to assist in the search. director. “Our pursuit of strategic opportunities is TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Although Bank has long been believed to be inter- part of our philosophy of long-term planning and WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ested in effecting an acquisition as the store count decision making.” COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. under its flagship brand has approached and now Due in part to its highly verticalized structure, VOLUME 205, NO. 128. MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two exceeded 600, the company said after its annual the company has among the strongest margin yields additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance meeting Friday that it “has been and is consider- in apparel retailing. Even last year, when profits and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ing strategic opportunities to enhance shareholder margins were down, gross margin was 58.3 percent Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, value,” including potential purchases of other com- of revenues and operating margin 12.2 percent. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver panies and brands. Harrison noted that “after significant deliberation, Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Earlier this month, WWD reported that it was the board believes that the best use of its excess cash Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. among the second-round bidders for Fifth & Pacific would be to acquire another company where they can Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or Cos. Inc.’s Lucky Brand division. The company use the existing synergies and strengths within the inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine didn’t comment on Lucky or other possible targets. organization. This is a company with an abundance is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo, told WWD of retailing, design, marketing, sourcing and supply You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt that it was unlikely to do so “until an acquisition is chain talent, and the skills and talents of the orga- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request finalized and available for disclosure.” nization, including Bob Wildrick, the chairman, can for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at While it’s endured several difficult quarters in the bring added value to any acquisition it would make.” www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that recent past — first-quarter profits fell 45.5 percent on Jos. A. Bank’s statement establishes that the com- we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at a 2.6 percent sales decline — the Hampstead, Md.- pany has elected to use the availability of cash for ac- P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED based men’s wear retailer boasts both annual sales quisition purposes, rather than more short-term pur- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER and a market capitalization of more than $1 billion, poses such as stock repurchases or special dividends. UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR no bank debt, more than $100 million in Internet sales Shares of the retailer closed Friday at $39.63, DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A and, as of Feb. 2, $377 million in cash, cash equiva- down 31 cents, or 0.8 percent. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013 3 WWD.COM CFDA Brings Designers to Beijing {Continued from page one} fashion market. Even the biggest brands The scene at the show. can get China wrong, so younger upstarts can have a tough time navigating what can be difficult waters here. In an interview, Kolb noted how China is the buzzword across the fashion indus- try, but there is a widespread lack of on- the-ground expertise about how to excel in the business here. “Everyone’s always talking ‘China, China, China,’ but maybe people are only understanding China how they want to, or they don’t really get how it works here,” he said before the show.

The dramatic Beijing show, intend- ed to help bridge that knowledge gap, emerged from a casual conversation last year among Proenza Schouler de- signers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez over lunch with Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour. “We were talking ·· about our strategy on how to enter this burgeoning market, what we could do to make a presence in China,” Hernandez said, recalling the show’s genesis. The CFDA ran with the idea, turning it fairly quickly into reality. The planning drew in two more CFDA/Vogue award winning labels. Silas Chou jumped in with the underwriting (for a cost CFDA officials didn’t disclose but called “not cheap”), and the designers set out for a week of exploring and prepping for the event in Beijing. Chou told the designers still young and fresh but also grounded seems far easier in most of the rest of that they’re living the American dream, enough that all three are sold in Lane the world’s capitals. and now he wants them to have a taste of Crawford, the Hong Kong-based store Hernandez and McCollough, co-orig- We’re exploring and the “Chinese dream.” chain that has become a go-to for fash- inators of the China show concept, said U.S. Ambassador to China Gary Locke ion-savvy Chinese consumers. they were excited for their work to be talking. To open feted the designers at a cocktail recep- “The brands that are here are at a dif- exhibited in China and the possibilities tion at his home in Beijing on Thursday, ferent level than the brands that go to it brings. The pair asked almost as many something in China, while Vogue China editor in chief Paris. Really they’re more established,” questions about China as they answered Angelica Cheung celebrated them with a said Kolb. “Marchesa, Proenza Schouler, in an interview. you need a local private dinner after. Rag & Bone — they’re established, you Their products are selling well in The three brands were chosen to show really can’t call them emerging anymore. Lane Crawford and Joyce, the Hong off a creative range of young American We really wanted to introduce them to Kong-designer warehouse with a shop in partner, so we’re sort fashion. They each specialize in different China, because let’s be honest, they’re Beijing, and the design duo is exuberant looks and potential market segments, so probably not that known here.” about the possibility of opening a free- of testing the waters, their joint show would come off as a col- As for the designers, gathering in standing store in China, but intends to laborative effort rather than competitive. interviews the day of the show, their proceed with caution. meeting different Kolb explained that Marchesa and impressions of China and hopes for a “Oh, absolutely. I can definitely see Rag & Bone were invited to broaden bigger consumer audience here ran that,” said Hernandez. “We’re exploring the scope of the show, featuring labels the gamut, from enthusiasm to a bit of and talking. To open something in China, people and seeing that don’t necessarily compete with skepticism about what lies ahead. A you need a local partner, so we’re sort of each other but give a wide glimpse of common theme on what surprised them testing the waters, meeting different peo- what’s right for us. emerging U.S. fashion. But in fact, these all about Beijing: the difficulty of com- ple and seeing what’s right for us.” brands might be called post-emergent, municating in English, something that Marchesa textile designer Keren — LAZARO HERNANDEZ, PROENZA SCHOULER

Rag & Bone Proenza Marchesa Schouler Craig said she has long been inspired and influenced by Chinese fabrics, and was drawing in even more on her first trip to China. She’s also intrigued by China’s market potential and the chance to explore it on her visit and at the show. “We were just so honored and excited to be invited, and to be with·· such peers,” she said. “That’s the amazing thing about the CFDA, is it’s really like a family and you get to know the other designers. It’s a home away from home.” For Rag & Bones’ managing partners David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, Beijing also represented something of an exploratory mission. The two have some experience in China and said they want to move toward China slowly, building a base in the right way without taking undue risks. While elite Chinese con- sumers are looking for smaller brands and unique design, the mass market here remains beholden to large luxury labels, a fact Neville and Wainwright noted. “We’ve been working with stores like Lane Crawford and I.T for a long time. We certainly haven’t been on a major push. It’s something we’ll have to digest after this trip,” said Neville. “We’ve been focused on America for so long, but it’s great to come here and see the opportu- LOVELL nity. Everything’s about the right timing, finding the right partners.” Said Wainwright: “It’s overwhelm- SHARRON

BY ing if you just try to wade in, but we’ve learned enough lessons in other markets

PHOTOS trying to do something like that.” 4 WwD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013

Prada Calvin Klein Ermenegildo Zegna

Prada

SPRING 2014 MILAN MEN’S COLLECTIONS

Streetwear styles were all over the first weekend of the Milan men’s shows — but so were Fifties Urban Jungle looks perfect for the beach or the suburbs. Prada: The audience, seated in a tiered and weekenders that are sure to be hits into stripes, always blue on white in and gentlemanly, elements of Norfolk pit painted swimming-pool blue, gazed come spring. his version of seersucker, cutting them and safari jackets, or quirky touches like upon a cartoonish set depicting palm The big surprise of the show was into crisp blazers and shirt jackets or slanted peacoat pockets on suit jackets, trees and sunset-dappled seascapes. But her commitment to a more relaxed billowing baseball jackets. They were a gave the collection an attitude that was when the lights went up, instead of the silhouette in six-button double-breasted home run. more leisurely than boardroom. The slim Go-Go’s crooning “Vacation,” the thump- or single-breasted jackets, either in pants on suits were often in the same thump of a military helicopter was lustrous wools or crisp cotton. They Ermenegildo Zegna: The Milan men’s shows fabric as the jackets, but embedded with heard over an ominous ambient throb. looked sensational over silky printed hit a high — and very high-end — note subtle jacquard patterns. The fast-paced Miuccia Prada had turned the clichés shirts and Prada’s new full-legged as Stefano Pilati made his debut at show climaxed with a series of blousons of an exotic holiday on their head, trousers, proving that strong fashion can Ermenegildo Zegna with a couture range and shorts, beach blankets trailing from instead imagining something “dark and be as much an escape as a package tour. priced 50 percent above the brand’s some models’ hands, bringing to mind the menacing,” as she put it backstage. Her flagship label. An exclusive techno Italian Riviera in the Sixties. premise, that a conflict-torn globe makes Calvin Klein: Men’s creative director soundtrack and fast-paced video by a The color combinations were mixes finding a carefree place in the sun ever Italo Zucchelli has the blues: Multiple mostly Swedish crew accompanied a of earthy shades, enlivened with powder more elusive, yielded a tour de force shades of it, from morning sky pale to sophisticated-yet-sprightly collection, blue, sage and Bordeaux. Arguably one of collection, and a show as captivating as Yves Klein intense, defined his terrific paraded on an oval runway ringed by Europe’s most stylish men, Pilati injected a film noir set in pre-war Honolulu. collection. It was graphic, athletic and giant video monitors. Pilati already a lot of his signature silhouettes and The fashion news — and a bevy of slyly streetwise, a key trend on the seems right at home in his post-Yves styling quirks: oversize, robelike coats vaguely Thirties women’s looks created Milan runways this season. The hunky Saint Laurent career, exalting the Italian swaggering open or cinched tightly; pants especially for the show — came fast models resembled superheroes in their firm’s textile wizardry on the screens cropped well above the ankles; small and furious: Hawaiian shirts, broken color-blocked bombers and taut, bonded — fast-cut scenes of clanging gears, foulards tucked inside lapels; sleeves suits, satin-y blousons and leisure shoes wool trousers, or futuristic workers in or skeins of yarn and tape measures pushed up just so. cloaked in rubber. As elsewhere in their stiff shirt jackets with silver snap unfurling — and on his precision With this luxurious and confident Milan, the colors were exceptionally fasteners. Then Zucchelli ignited the silhouettes. collection, Pilati has raised the ante. dark for a spring collection, but Prada runway with a series of photo-printed He opened the show with a series “I think the term couture applied to sparked her sale-rack vintage palette T-shirts and sweatshirts depicting salt of long and lean suits, the jackets men’s wear is new. Handmade has a with bold and lively prints mingling flats and seascapes at midday, sunset characterized by a high button stance true value,” he said. “These details add jungle foliage and pinup girls, even and under the stars — an Instagram and lapels something between notch and personality, mine inevitably, and that of splashing them onto leather briefcases moment par excellence. He segued peak. While he kept everything suave Zegna as the world knows it.”

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Bottega Veneta Jil Sander Neil Barrett Versace

For more images, see WWD.com/ runway.

bringing their ergonomic designs Missoni to life. Cropped jackets with crew necklines took center stage. They came in a number of ultramodern, masculine hybrids such as a perfecto-cum-bomber jacket, which mixed leather with padded neoprene for extra volume, while a blazer-bomber combination in nylon was more close-fitted and unassuming. Finely textured bouclé T-shirts were a standout. Barrett also staged a return to tailored pieces, presenting minimalist suit jackets with hidden buttons for a crisp and Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier summoned to mind watching Jil Sander’s intriguing contemporary look. He nevertheless kept a mood of late Fifties and early Sixties collection, which married streetwear’s a streetwear edge by matching them with suburban idyll with his subdued generous shapes and searing colors to roomy shorts. collection. A man in a gray suit toting a clinical tailoring. black briefcase opened the show, cueing The German designer opened her show, Versace: Like a superhero, Donatella a series of other ashen office types. accompanied by plaintive tracks from Versace’s man is equally at home in a While trim and conservative at first Marianne Faithfull and Jimmy Somerville, dramatic getup of leather, shiny studs, and glance, the tailoring gradually became with crisp jackets and trim coats in a soft black satin as he is in a one-button tailored more inventive. Some suits accrued shade of cream. Boxy and lean tailoring suit with sharp shoulders. And why not? workwear details, crossbred with shared the rectangular runway, an X in the Versace has never catered to Giuseppe garage-man or golf jackets, while others middle like a ballot box. Average, and her man has always been one had lapels and handkerchief pockets The neon colors snuck up quickly, of many moods and faces. outlined in chalk stripes that were first in glimpses of knits under jackets, Her bright, playful collection full actually painted on. then dabbed on the cuffs and hems of shine and neon shades — models Maier moved on to the country of loose white blousons, then coating, even wore thick strips of colored sports club and the backyard barbecue. He as if spray-painted, on entire tailored tape here and there on their bodies — cut handsome camp shirts generously ensembles. They looked best when used embraced all facets of the Versace man. in creamy cottons, and applied the sparingly, edging the inside-out seams of There’s the dark knight, whose leather same chalk-stripe details to black polo black blazers and trousers. jackets glistened with gold studs and shirts, piping the collars and plackets. Sculpted and glossy leathers and zips, whose dressing gown has a big A series of pullovers in Windbreaker- papery lab coats heightened the rippling Medusa head on the back, and Missoni: Angela Missoni has found a thin suede were impressive, resembling collection’s futuristic gloss, while who sports sheer black-lace dress shirts. fresh approach to her family’s artisanal jockey silks. Color-blocked cardigans scribble prints and oversize T-shirts Then there’s the clean-cut company knitwear, introducing a new loom knit and diamond-patterned crewnecks carried the torch for the half-pipe man, whose tailored suits have a roomy made with a rubber-coated yarn in resembled period Father’s Day presents. crowd. Failed experiments included the silhouette, shiny buttons and strong indigo, sand and sage green, which The show climaxed with a series of head-to-toe patterns and the pleated shoulders, a man who pairs his jackets she used to create overcoats and short pants, polo shirts and shirts mixing bold Bermuda shorts, cartoonish in their with shorts and trousers that gather, parkas. Created in partnership with windowpane and other checks. There oversized proportions. tracksuit style, around the ankle. And, British Hancock of Scotland, they had was an ultracool Vegas Rat Pack vibe Only three seasons back at the label finally, there’s the high-energy party bestseller written all over them. throughout, heightened by “So What” by that bears her name, Sander has to be boy, whose neon-paint-splattered jeans, Cardigans — some loosely knit, others Miles Davis on the soundtrack. But while admired for her daring with this punchy, sweatshirts and boiler suits reveal a light enough to be worn on a sunny Maier ticked off a lot of trends gathering hyper modern and youthful offering. man at play. spring day — had an airy feel, done in a steam in Milan — shirtlike jackets and The designer put it this way: “The sizzling palette inspired by West African autumnal colors among them — the show Neil Barrett: Fifties Americana was felt Versace man is powerful in so many fabrics, namely terracotta, malachite, could have used a bit more oomph. throughout Neil Barrett’s well-executed different ways. There is the strength sand and sapphire. These were also collection, kept sober in black, white of the athletic body, the force of employed in classic men’s suits, Jil Sander: A skater kid grows up, retires and red. Taking cues from the undulant tailoring, power of decoration and the featuring plaid patchwork patterns on his board and becomes an important shapes of Charles and Ray Eames’ timelessness of Versace’s iconography.” cool wool, as well as a series of pleated scientist — while still hanging on to his furniture, Barrett sent out bulky T-shirts This brand has always followed its own linen pants and cargo shorts, conjuring cool factor. That fantasy storyline sprang that featured inlaid fabric panels, drumbeat, and long may that party last. an elegant, urban silhouette.

w24a004(5)a;5.indd 5 6/23/13 5:43 PM 06232013174436 6 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013

Salvatore Ferragamo: Milan has been in a particularly sporty mood for spring, and Ferragamo has jumped right onto the pitch, the court, and the track with its fellow Italian brands. Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti worked a palette of mustard, burnt orange, light blue, tomato and olive into cool summer suits worn with white shorts, or trousers and jackets in a textured, gently puckered cotton. He took the numbers one and four, inflated them, and placed them on stiff cotton sleeveless shirts and tunic tops, tanks and knits. There was a quilting motif at work, too, for white leather jackets, and as a pattern on short plastic coats or cotton shirts. For outerwear, Giornetti played with volume, sending out sculpted raincoats with drawstring waists and roomy baseball jackets with a SPRING 2014 spongy finish. This collection was perfectly polished, but it’s unclear MILAN whether all those sport and street MEN’S references will appeal to the COLLECTIONS Ferragamo customer, who may be more in the mood for luxury separates, without all the edge.

Trussardi: Gaia Trussardi chose to stick to the family’s tradition and worked mainly in leather as her debut collection’s all-around fabric. She fashioned it into bulky shirts and T-shirts, conjuring a modern and athletic look. An ultralight leather jumpsuit and long canvas parkas Salvatore were cool and classy, clearly Ferragamo Trussardi John Varvatos worthy of a desert adventure, Trussardi’s declared source of inspiration. Slouchy pants with age — Bryan Ferry, David Bowie, breasted jackets, while watch had a youthful energy to them. collars. Perfecto jackets came drawstrings around the waist Jimi Hendrix and the Beatles in chains dangled from low-cut It’s unclear what the Mantua- in leather and fabric versions. oozed laid-back elegance. their Sgt. Pepper’s incarnation. waistcoats, Oscar Wilde-style. based tailor wished to express At times, the collection Given the theme, the palette Silhouettes were tall and thin with a series of high-collared exuded a Nineties grunge was largely sand, beige and thanks to longer jackets, frock, Corneliani: Sergio Corneliani jackets equipped with an unruly flair, especially when models off-white, mixed with flashes and car coats — some artfully imagined a traveling man bound strap across the throat: They had paraded a lineup of elongated of terracotta, blue and pale torn at the front, and others for the Far East. Cue Mao- a sci-fi feel to them, yet looked a T-shirts as Johnny Cash green, which looked particularly with drummer boy frogging — collared suits that fastened with tad outdated. crooned a Depeche Mode song. attractive on a run of loosely and trousers that ranged from buttons or zippers. The textures woven knits. Overall, Trussardi stovepipe styles to ones with a were intriguing — shiny silk, Costume National: Designer Andrea Pompilio: One of Milan’s presented an impeccably crafted subtle flare at the hem. perforated or laser-printed Ennio Capasa showcased a rising talents, Pompilio showed collection, but a series of ostrich Varvatos further accentuated leather as well as quilting — retail-friendly, but ultimately his collection for the first time and snakeskin Bermudas, suits his elongated shapes with long enlivening otherwise sober repetitive collection. He gave at Giorgio Armani’s theater and trenchcoats felt a tad too silky shirts or scarves flowing silhouettes. Linen pants, fitted his signature rock ’n’ roll style on via Bergognone, part of the much, taking into account the from under waistcoats or jackets. and slightly cropped, came in an a country twang this season, latter’s efforts to support the stifling heat of the desert — and Texture was a big story, too: Coats appealing palette of pale pink, taking the reference a little city’s young guns. Armani was the runway theater. and jackets were crinkle treated, blue gray and cream, and mixed too literally. Cropped, slim- not at the show: A source said while the undersides of jacket well with a series of cotton knits. fitted pants were matched he didn’t want to distract from John Varvatos: The designer mined collars were paved with sparkles. Loosely woven and loaded with with ankle boots and cowboy the main event, which pulled familiar territory in a collection Zipper pockets appeared as a bold stitch in wine red, white, hats. Shirts came with fringing an impressive crowd for such a referencing rockers of a certain a sporty touch on white, double- beige, black or turquoise, they and metal tips on their pointy large venue. Pompilio’s prints and patterns were the stars of the runway. They were on trenchcoats and tailored suits, worn with ankle-length trousers, covered in rust and black zebralike stripes. Cabana-style suits came paved with paisley and batik prints and were worn mismatched, while varsity jackets and short-sleeve polo knits looked arty in bold, black- and-white optical patterns.

Andrea Incontri: With an imaginary lighthouse keeper in mind, Andrea Incontri channeled a sailor theme, while keeping things sophisticated and contemporary. The show opened with a hooded raincoat, which was followed by a more urban parka with a drawstring of raw cord. Maxi stripes took center stage, appearing on a zipped jacket, a tailored double-breasted blazer and a trenchcoat, which were all paired with rolled-up denim pants with a Fifties feel. Playing with patterns, Incontri designed a bicolor seersucker suit: The blazer and pants featured horizontal and vertical pinstripes, respectively, while a nylon tank Costume Andrea Andrea top with matching board shorts Corneliani National Pompilio Incontri was printed with black-and-white images of the seaside. WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013 7 WWD.COM

four or five stores in three or four years and the same number of fran- Valextra Maps Course With IPO as Goal chised units,” he remarked, adding that the Middle East, Russia, China Carminati Molina said are no serious emergencies.” by First Lady Michelle Obama. and Hong Kong are key potential By LUISA ZARGANI Valextra is aiming to reach sales Franchini said that the first None have a visible logo. “With markets for the brand. of 80 million euros, or $105 mil- step is to set up an experienced their clean lines and strong identi- Valextra currently has six MILAN — Fueled and supported lion at current exchange, in 2018, managerial organization that will ty, they have a very long lifespan,” stores, including the stately flag- by its new owner, London-based compared with current revenues support growth around the world. said Carminati Molina. ship in Milan’s Via Manzoni, investment firm NEO Capital, of 13 million euros, or $17 million. Carminati Molina pointed to a Franchini concurred, adding in a historic building that also Valextra is laying out the next “Our objectives are feasible boost of production as the second that they “generate carryovers houses the brand’s showroom five to 10 years with the end game both in terms of quality and step. The company has a manu- and are not very seasonal.” and offices. Franchini said the being an initial public offering. quantity. We want to safeguard facturing plant 20 miles outside Asked if a creative designer company is looking for an addi- In the first interview since the the product in line with its es- of Milan and produces about might be tapped to take over tional location in Milan’s golden sale of his family’s 60 percent stake sence, focusing on its evergreen 37,000 pieces a year. “Everything from Carminati Molina, who said shopping triangle in the Via in Valextra, chairman Emanuele values, while developing the will remain produced in Italy, he has been designing “accord- Montenapoleone area. Carminati Molina and new chief company,” said Franchini. In his but we will push for a total of be- ing to his own personal taste and One freestanding boutique executive officer Marco Franchini previous post as chairman and tween 100,000 and 150,000 units for his own pleasure,” both de- opened in Tokyo at the end of said NEO Capital succeeded in ceo of Bally, he orchestrated a per year,” said Carminati Molina. murred. Carminati Molina said April, which is showing “excep- securing control of the Italian major overhaul of the brand, This does not necessarily mean “someone will surely take over tional results, beyond our expec- luxury accessories brand because returning the company to the an in-house boost, said Franchini, and dedicate more time than I tations,” said Franchini. There it guaranteed it would protect its black, and leaving in 2009 after pointing to a “reinforcement of am capable of,” pointing to his are also four units in Korea. exclusivity, quality and Made in seven years at the helm. the production structure.” other business ventures outside A new venue will open in Italy craftsmanship. “Valextra Prior to Bally, Franchini was The executive also said mer- fashion. “We need someone dedi- Singapore at the Paragon Mall must remain a flag for Italy,” said Gucci’s general manager for chandising is a priority. Valextra cated, as Valextra is capable of in October in an agreement with Carminati Molina, crediting NEO Europe for eight years ending in has evolved from a maker of realizing everything.” Franchini FJ Benjamin Holdings Ltd. Capital founding partner David the late Nineties. mainly men’s luggage and travel said there is still “great untapped In the U.S., Barneys New Belhassen for his vision and un- Franchini said he starts from bags since its inception in 1937 potential in the DNA of the York is Valextra’s exclusive dis- derstanding of the brand. a better vantage point this time, into a women’s brand of hand- brand” and expects to introduce tributor and carries the brand Prior to the sale, Carminati as Valextra is “a healthy company bags and small leather goods. “relevant, more modern, visible in eight doors in the country. Molina, who had acquired a majori- that is growing, with no debt, with Carminati Molina said the best- and effervescent models.” “We are very happy with this ty stake in Valextra from Samsonite solid and fertile foundations, and selling Valextra styles are rede- In terms of distribution, agreement,” said Franchini. through his holding company Carfin a clear and strong identity. The signs of models from the Sixties, Franchini said he was looking at Valextra is also available at 12 92 and relaunched the brand in the press and the market alike view such as the Boston tote, the Babila locations in Paris and London for other shops-in-shop and 27 cor- early Aughts, was also its ceo. it as a credible brand and there or the Tammy Bag, seen carried statement stores. “We plan to open ners around the world.

and relaunching it while keeping whether Miu Miu and Valentino Gabrielle de Papp, formerly vice an eye on new challenges, would consider showing in Milan president of corporate public FASHION SCOOPS coordinating our resources to — thorny issues over the past relations at Neiman Marcus, will maintain our leadership.” few weeks — Bertelli reiterated serve as senior vice president To press forward, the Chamber that the organization steers clear of U.S. brand development, and MISSONI SEARCH EXPECTED TO and new key board members of Fashion will be able to rely of the “concept of nationalism” Roopal Patel will join the site’s US BEGIN: Following the finding of the Italian Chamber of on more cash. Starting in 2014, it and “discriminations,” urging advisory board. last week of a plane that went Fashion presented their views will have 4.7 million euros, or $6 flexibility, democracy and respect. Following a $20 million missing in the waters off the on returning luster to Milan million at current exchange, in its “The chamber is the epicenter round of funding from Venezuelan archipelago of Los Fashion Week. “Without Italy, coffers, 300 percent more than in of fashion activities at large, and Condé Nast International Roques in 2008, search ship Sea the entire international fashion the past years. helps also those that are not a into London-based Farfetch. Scout is expected to start looking system would be in a crisis, “We need to add some icing part of it,” he said. com in March, the for the small aircraft carrying so I demand respect for all of on a cake that is already good The industry FOR MORE company — which Vittorio Missoni that disappeared the country’s pipeline,” said and learn to tell our story,” said figures got some tough SCOOPS, SEE already works with in the same area on Jan. 4. Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli, the vice president Diego Della Valle. questions from the more than 250 Missoni, his life partner association’s newly appointed “Italy has substance that Italians journalists, though, WWD.com boutiques in nearly Maurizia Castiglioni, two longtime vicar vice president. are not good at recounting.” including one that 20 counties — will friends and two crew members “The name is unity,” chimed Asked whether Giorgio Armani pointed out the new continue to sign took off from Los Roques in vice president Gildo Zegna. “We and Dolce & Gabbana were chamber figures were, ahem, of a key independent stores headed to the Simon Bolivar are reinforcing the organization planning to join the chamber and certain advanced age and almost here. There are about 60 U.S. International Airport in all male. That caused the panel boutiques, counting New York Maiquetía, about 13 miles from to bristle, including Bertelli, City’s Kirna Zabête as of this downtown Caracas, and sent out who kept repeating, “We must week, as well as Fivestory and its last signals about 10 nautical be careful what we say here” Newport Beach’s A’maree’s — miles from Los Roques before as he prepared to answer. His the latter two having launched disappearing. The search was response? That he never really on the site in February. never discontinued, but Sea thought about age or whether De Papp will spearhead Scout is an oceanographic someone is male or female — and American development of the ship equipped to inspect deep that many in the industry are brand via partnerships with waters. — LUISA ZARGANI young and female. — L.Z. specialty stores, public relations, marketing and strategic

CAMERA READY: Sunday’s schedule TOMBOLINI FAR-REACHING FARFETCH: partnerships. She will report kicked off bright and early with Farfetch continues to expand directly to Farfetch ceo Jose a breakfast press conference at Gildo Zegna, Patrizio Bertelli, Mario Boselli and Diego Della Valle at the LUCA its reach in the U.S., and Neves, who said the biggest — BY the Four Seasons Hotel at 8 a.m., Italian Fashion Chamber’s press conference in Milan on Sunday. the online marketplace is and fastest-growing market — is

as several industry heavyweights PHOTO bolstering its senior ranks. the U.S. — RACHEL STRUGATZ

spend his summer in Positano, while your runway show in Paris instead of Turkish designer Umit Benan said for him Milan?’ I don’t know where she got that GQ Throws a Pool Party in Milan it would be “some island. I will decide from: She’s only five. She probably wants to WET AND WILD: A who’s who of designers, easy world, but that fashion is a difficult in the next couple of hours,” he said. see the Eiffel Tower.” including Stefano Pilati, Tomas Maier and business because you have to reach the Benan divulged he is “close” to Hidetoshi Nakata, arguably the best-dressed Italo Zucchelli, popped by for cocktails by public, make factories work and find the opening his own store in Milan and retired soccer player next to David Beckham, the pool of the beautiful Villa Necchi right product for the market.” received offers from two investors — said he has just launched a high-end sake Campiglio to celebrate Jim Nelson’s 10- Boxer-turned-model Rob Evans faced a “one was a big one, but I didn’t feel like brand called N, putting no more than 1,000 year tenure as GQ’s editor in chief. different predicament. Asked if he was it was the right one. I really want to do it bottles a year on the market, while he is also “We are glad to ‘lend’ this special walking in any shows, the “America’s in a healthy way this time.” acting as a sartorial match-maker promoting location to them,” said Diego Della Valle, Next Top Model” judge John Varvatos’ business creative ventures between Japanese who as usual will host guests at the replied: “I’m too big. plans include his first artisans and Western luxury fashion brands mansion today to unveil the new Tod’s Basically, the only place European flagship, set such as Gucci. “These craftsmen are an accessories and men’s wear collections. where I can work is New to open in August 2014 important part of our cultural heritage; it’s “Of course, I would have liked to be York, in Europe everyone in London. “We do great because of them that the products have such there, but I preferred to give him some has to be like this,” he business in the U.K. and high quality. When they die, a part of our space,” said Giorgio Armani, referring to said, flashing his little this is the prefect kickoff culture dies with them,” he said. Andrea Pompilio, who on Saturday showed finger, before stripping for me in Europe,” he said, British actor Matthew Goode said he’s

his collection at Armani’s theater on down to his boxers and MAESTRI though he was wondering shooting a BBC miniseries called “Death Via Bergognone. “I’m sure that there taking a dip in the pool. if his little daughter would Come to Pemberley” and a film with

are many young talents here in Italy — I New York-based Thom DAVIDE approve of the location. Benedict Cumberbatch and Keira Knightley think that it’s extremely important to Browne said he would John Varvatos and BY “The other day she asked called “The Imitation Games.” — PAULINA teach them that this is not a golden, soon return to Italy to Thom Browne me: ‘Why don’t you have SZMYDKE AND ALESSANDRA TURRA PHOTO 8 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013 WWD.COM CHILDREN’S PREVIEW Pitti Bimbo Brands See International Growth Potential stores in China, Russia and the Middle land of Minorca. It will open stores in About 10,000 visitors are expected. By SOFIA CELESTE East. Openings in Brazil, Africa, Turkey, China, Brazil, the Caribbean, Africa and Dsquared2 will launch its junior line Malta and Cyprus are also on the horizon, Thailand in 2013. One of its best perform- on Friday during the fair, hosting a pre- MILAN — In the face of unfavorable Sallorenzo said. ing markets is Russia. sentation at 9 a.m. at Florence’s Corsini consumer spending trends in Europe Data shows that foreign interest in “The three biggest growth markets Garden, 115 Via della Scala. and slowing economic growth in Russia, Italian children’s wear is on the rise. In are Russia, Russia and Russia. We have Dsquared2 signed a five-year produc- China and Brazil, upscale children’s wear 2012, exports in the category (in value doubled [growth] each of the last three tion and distribution licensing agree- brands set to unfurl their spring 2014 terms) outpaced imports, rising 1.9 per- years,” brand creator David Bell said. ment with Brave Kid, the children’s wear collections at Pitti Bimbo, Thursday to cent over 2011, while imports dropped Fay Junior, one of Diego Della Valle’s manufacturer under Rosso’s Only the Saturday, are stepping up their game. 7.1 percent, Pitti Bimbo organizing body Tod’s SpA stable of brands, reports that Brave Group umbrella. The entry, de- Companies that still call their larg- Pitti Immagine reported. about 90 percent of its business is gener- signed by Dsquared2’s creative directors est single market Italy — a nation be- “In 2013, we are seeing already that ated in Italy and that its growth potential Dean and Dan Caten, will include appar- sieged by swelling unemployment and like men’s wear, the children’s wear mar- abroad is very high. The brand hopes to el and accessories for boys and girls from an enduring recession — are in search ket is facing less consumption in Italy, consolidate its presence in Europe and newborn to 14 years old. of underexploited territories abroad. while export data has been good,” said expand in South Korea, China, the U.S., The brothers say the kids line has the Kids’ wear brands here are planning to Pitti Immagine ceo Raffaello Napoleone. Russia and the Middle East. potential to boost sales — even in Russia, open stores in Africa, Latin America, Italian consumer confidence fell in “For Fay, we are still in our initial China and Brazil, where the economy has the Pacific, Russia, the Middle East and May, due to increased negative senti- stages. Russia and the Middle East begun to slow. China this year. ment over the euro zone’s third-larg- are still really new markets that Herno Kids “We thought that there was “Emerging markets are an es- est economy. Italian statistics office haven’t yet been able to affect something missing within the sential resource to face the inter- Istat said the consumer confidence the brand’s overall sales,” said range of merchandise we were of- national downturn. They have index dipped to 85.9 in May from Roberto Magnani, Fay’s gen- fering to our clients. For us, this helped a lot to offset downturn in 86.3 in April. eral manager. “We have seen, is an opportunity to widen the Italy,” said Gaetano Sallorenzo, “Children’s wear sales are very however, a strong interest Dsquared2 lifestyle, of course chief executive officer of Pinco resilient, at least in the mass mar- that gives us ambitious to boost the business,” said Pallino SpA. In 2013, the ket. What you see over and over hopes for the future.” Dean Caten. Entratico, Italy-based is that in a crunch, men’s wear Fay Junior repre- Inspired by historic company aims to open sents 10 percent of Fay’s Dsquared2 pieces from total sales. their adult line, “the Moschino Dsquared2 irony, col- Kids ors, aesthetics and fun

Fay Junior Brave Kid Dsquared2 I Pinco Pallino

would decline first, then women’s wear Increased shop- will all be condensed into a Mini and then, only last, children’s wear,” said per traffic in stores version. The new collection will Show at a Glance Luca Solca, head of luxury research at in Rome and Milan be very Dsquared2,” Dan Caten Pitti Bimbo (77th edition) Exane BNP Paribas. helped drive Italy’s La added. Venue: Fortezza da Basso This year, the focus for Renzo Rosso’s Rinascente children’s apparel Pretty Ballerinas Pitti Bimbo will also see the 1 Viale F. Strozzi, Florence Brave Kid will revolve around Greater buying budget in 2013 by 14.3 global launch of Trussardi Junior’s Dates: June 27 to 29 China, where the company is currently percent compared with 2012. latest collection. Milan-based Trussardi Hours: June 27 to 28, 9 a.m. to 6 forging a partnership to open new sales “This is thanks to a constant effort to teamed up with I Pinco Pallino SpA for p.m.; June 29, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. points and corners at shopping malls refine the brand mix, where next to lux- production and distribution of the line. A Number of Visitors: More than 10,000 in top locations, according to Germano ury brands, we also refined our offering previous version of the line launched in Number of Collections: 460 Ferraro, general manager of Brave Kid. of niche and emerging brands, as well as 1983, produced by Confezioni Supergin Contact: pittimmagine.com “The effect of global economic chang- the creation of a high-performing shoe SpA and later Idea SpA. es provided a decrease in purchasing, area,” said Cinzia Baldelli, head chil- A special section of the show will Runway Shows both in domestic and European markets, dren’s wear buyer at La Rinascente. be dedicated to luxury in children’s June 27 which affected us as well as our competi- Pitti Bimbo, which will be held at fashions titled Apartment and dedi- 11 a.m.: Miss Blumarine, Sala della tors,” said Ferraro. “We expect to regain Florence’s Fortezza del Basso fair- cated to international luxe children’s Ronda new market share trying to satisfy the grounds, will host 460 collections and fashion brands for a niche consumer Noon: Twin Set, Sala del Rondino consumers’ requests.” 6,200 buyers, including internationals target group. 2 p.m.: Miss Grant, Sala della Another brand looking for growth out- from Russia, Spain, Germany, Turkey, the Additionally, a section in the Main Ronda side its home turf is Pretty Ballerinas, U.K., France, Belgium, Japan, Holland, Pavilion will be reserved for a green- 3 p.m.: Quis Quis designed by which prides itself on its decorative Ukraine, Greece, Switzerland, the U.S., themed “Eco Ethic” pop-up store dedi- Stefano Cavalleri, Sala del flats made on the Mediterranean is- Brazil, Portugal, China and South Korea. cated to makers of sustainable fashion. Rondino 5 p.m.: Parrot (by Spazio Sei), Sala della Ronda June 28 Trends the Yorkshire countryside is the focus of Natural: I Pinco Pallino’s keyword for the 10 a.m.: Children’s Fashion from Biker: Vroom Pitti, Vroom! is the main theme Moschino Kids’ spring collection, while season is “natural.” Materials like cotton, silk Spain, Sala del Rondino of Pitti Bimbo, representing a passion for two I Pinco Pallino’s girls’ line shows off the and linen will take center stage. 11 a.m.: Il Gufo, Sala della Ronda wheels on the open road. The focus will be brand’s romantic side, with ultralight dresses. 1 p.m.: Philipp Plein Petite, Sala on biker lifestyle, clothing and accessories. Colors: Herno’s palette includes periwinkle, sun del Rondino Cashmere and oil stains, studs, denim and Sporty Chic: Fay Junior’s boys’ collection is yellow, golden sand, ice, military green, navy 2 p.m.: Fun & Fun Girl, Sala della high-tech fabrics are likely to be a focus at dedicated to the world of sports with opaque and sky blue, while sorbet colors spice up I Ronda the fair. nylon and Neoprene fabrics. Herno will also Pinco Pallino’s collection. Renzo Rosso’s Brave showcase bomber and field jackets in nylon Kid’s denim for the season is washed with dark New Entries: Versace Young, as well Romantic: Outerwear maker Herno’s grand sailcloth with patch pockets, while Dsquared2’s indigo. Pretty Ballerinas’ loafers and ballerina as the worldwide launch of both ball theme features micro taffeta, silky first kid’s collection will include playful, casual flats will add some metallic shine to the shoe Dsquared2’s junior/kids collection nylon effects and mandarin collars for girls. designs with raincoats and rain boots, as well as selection of Pitti Bimbo, while Dsquared2’s and Trussardi Junior’s collection A whimsical floral theme reminiscent of baseball caps and cropped jackets. junior line will incorporate primary colors. produced by I Pinco Pallino. Presents The best Merino wool for baby wear

Florence, 27th - 29th June 2013 Pitti Immagine Bimbo, Fortezza da Basso Central Building, Main Entrance Hall

www.woolmark.com 10 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013

signed on as creative directors of Grand Central Market, a historic marketplace in downtown Los Well Seasoned Angeles for which they have been curating hip new tenants. It’s IT ALL STARTED with a flat suggested I write a blog to keep also where West’s friends Scott of strawberries. track of my recipe testing, and Sternberg and Adam Rapoport “I didn’t have any inkling it took one post before it too are throwing him a book party on that jam would become my became an obsession,” he says. Tuesday evening, with supper by second career,” says Kevin The blog, “Saving the the soon-to-open Horse Thief BBQ. West, who made the impulsive Season,” formed the basis of As West traverses the airy purchase at Santa Monica’s West’s first book by the same market, he points out other farmer’s market five years ago title, out Tuesday from Knopf. new tenants like G&B Coffee, a in what he calls “an abundance When he started the blog in high-end caffeine bar owned by of enthusiasm and under the 2009, West had been on staff at former Intelligentsia employees influence of spring fever.” WWD and W for over a decade, Kyle Glanville and Charles His first attempt to preserve and his profiles included culinary Babinski, and Valerie, an old- nature’s bounty was a flop, luminaries like Maguy Le Coze fashioned lunch counter offshoot spurring him to try again the and Ann Colgin, so the personal of Valerie Confections bakery. following weekend, and the project felt a bit like playing hooky His book reflects equally hobby soon became an obsession. from school. He also found himself diverse tastes. “Fortunately, a few of writing about the past as much as “If you are curious about a my more perceptive friends the present. “It was so satisfying project like making kimchi or dill realized I was in the thrall of to write about a part of my pickles, I learned how to do that something. Dana Goodyear upbringing that I had never really stuff from great people and really thought about — what it meant broke it down. There are also to be from the South, the legacy I sections about the origins and inherited from my grandparents history of ingredients that can be about the appreciation of read outside the kitchen,” he says. nature, the understanding of the His next book will take the communion of the table and the same liberal arts approach to value of sitting down and telling recipes and stories focusing on stories over food,” he says. other cuisine and culture that In the process, West became he can’t reveal just yet. Until something of a local food celebrity, then, he’s focused on the few producing a retail collection of days that Blenheim apricots and jams and preserves also called sour cherries will be in season, Saving the Season and teaching noting, “Nature’s bounty is workshops at a local chef ’s market. abundant but fleeting. The fun He is certified as a master food thing about fruit is that one day eye preserver by the University of there’s more of it than you could California Cooperative Extension, possibly pick or eat, but only for and he and his business partner a short time and then it’s over.” Kevin West Joseph Shuldiner recently — MARCY MEDINA

Kate and Laura Troupe Beverly Hills Mulleavy THE INAUGURAL benefit for “I’ve been really lucky to get to Benjamin Millepied’s L.A. Dance watch the company grow. L.A. Project, held at the Bel-Air is such a hotbed of creativity, home of Sutton and Christian and you can understand it Stracke on Thursday night, felt because you have the space more like a casual backyard and the environment here that gathering than a serious art is perfect for creativity rather affair. The laid-back air was than consumption.” by design. From the dance Portman’s friends Laura and floor, which was constructed Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte agreed. over the Strackes’ swimming “It’s much more laid-back than pool, to the performances your typical event,” said Laura themselves, which began Mulleavy. “The invite said when the seven dancers outdoor garden party with seated among the dinner festive summer attire, so I crowd stood up one by was like, ‘Yeah, jeans!’” one and started dancing The 140-person crowd on the lawn, the was an eclectic mix evening had a feeling of ranging from Jeffrey Deitch playfulness. and Barbara Kruger, Benjamin “You weren’t both of whom have Millepied with expecting a serious collaborated with Natalie Portman Rashida dance performance, LADP, to Reese in Christian Dior. Jones were you?” asked Witherspoon and Millepied. “This is Rashida Jones. just something that Designers the dancers put Monique Lhuillier L.A. Dance together for fun.” and Sophie Buhai FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Project dancers He was being were also in the mix, performing. modest, as the as were Cameron Silver, WWD.com/eye. first piece was Mike and Irena Medavoy an excerpt of a and Giada De Laurentiis. work recently “It’s because of my performed in five-year-old daughter Paris to rave that I came tonight,” reviews and said De Laurentiis. the second was “She’s really into dance, a preview of a and I wanted to see what piece that dance exactly this was. Dance “It” boy Justin Peck of was lost for a while, and New York City Ballet I really think it’s coming is choreographing for back in a big way. And it’s LADP (the movement nice to support something performed on Thursday that’s local.” was created just two After dessert, the music

days prior). switched from Vivaldi to KEENAN Millepied’s wife, Snoop Dogg, and Jones and Natalie Portman, who her date Will McCormack joined STEFANIE

cochaired the event the dancers for a late-night BY with Catharine Soros and Reese spin on the dance floor. — M.M. Sutton Stracke, said, Witherspoon PHOTOS WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013 11 WWD.COM

wanted to create a landing page that is a collage of images.” MeMo pad W’s landing page features a highlight reel of the newest material, PUTTING THE (W)EST IN W: The next and the rest is stacked as an endless interview with Kanye West will appear scroll of images, with the most recent in W magazine in its August issue. West content nearest the top. Resort 2014 sat with contributor Christopher Bagley In contrast to other Condé Nast over several days in March and April magazines, W’s entire issues will Chalayan Damir Doma at his apartment in Paris, where he be available online for free, though was recording his new album “Yeezus.” features will make their way to the Web In the interview, West recalls an site in pieces, not all at once. Tonchi, invitation from an unnamed designer referring to the early publication of last fall to attend a runway show the West interview, said it allows the with the condition that West would magazine to be “more responsive to not attend anyone else’s. West, upset, what is happening out there.” wrote a song with Daft Punk about the Staffers will also be posting incident, “I Am a God.” some pieces exclusively to the Web, “Cause it’s like, Yo! Nobody can updated throughout the day, but there tell me where I can and can’t go. won’t be a vertical dedicated to new Man, I’m the number-one living and blog posts — instead they’ll appear breathing rock star. I am Axl Rose; I am under various categories, like Fashion or People. W’s lengthy archives are partially online, and the magazine is continuously working on adding pieces. A W YouTube channel, in the manner of Vogue and Glamour, won’t appear for some time — Tonchi For more said Condé Nast images, see Entertainment is just now starting to WWD.com/ take a look at the runway. magazine — but Maestri

the new site has a e The homepage of the redesigned W magazine Web site. video vertical that D

Jim Morrison; I am Jimi Hendrix. You features behind-the-scenes footage, Davi can’t say that you love music and then runway shows, clips highlighting by say that Kanye West can’t come to pieces from the magazine and “screen your show,” West said. tests” with celebrities. — ERIK MAZA PHoto In one exchange between West and Kris Jenner, the mother of his girlfriend INTERIORS AND EXTERIORS: Stark modern Chalayan: Hussein Chalayan riffed Damir Doma: As the guest designer of the Kim Kardashian, West mocks Jenner architecture provides the backdrop for on seaside leisure for resort. “The 12th edition of Pitti W, Damir Doma showed when her response to a track she’s Ferragamo’s fall ad campaign featuring anticipation, the conversations, sharing his resort collection in Florence’s Corsini just heard — “Great job!” — strikes Daria Werbowy and Tyson Ballou. Creative a drink,” said Chalayan. “I was looking at gardens. Known for his modern Gothic him as inadequate. director Massimiliano Giornetti tapped that crossover between life on the beach aesthetic, Doma worked a softer, more “Great job? Great job, Baccarat, for photographer David Sims for the London in a daily way.” Specifically, he zeroed in feminine angle this time, touching on a making a glass that can hold liquid! shoot. Stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé was also on the idea of a towel wrapped around variety of influences that he managed Great job, belt hoops, for keeping my at the ready, as were Paul Hanlon for hair you after a swim, working the clever with a cohesive vision. Fitted dresses with pants up,” West said. and Lisa Butler for makeup. concept with wearable ease. A white kimono sleeves and jewel-toned suits with West concedes he can come across Sims’ intention was “to create a blazer was gently pleated and pulled wrapped jackets gave the lineup an Eastern as a buffoon and asks Bagley to edit feeling of organic continuity between around the body in the front; a gauzy influence. Cubist art inspired a colorful some of his nonsense — “Turn my flea architecture and nature,” according to white camisole gave the impression of a patchwork on a relaxed bias-cut maxidress, market of information into a beautiful the Italian company. To that point, the bikini worn under a towel. More colorful while a sexy athleticism came through with living space.” more impactful shots include images looks came in an abstract photo print of tight zip-up crop tops with cutout shoulders West has only given one interview of windows that reveal linear interiors a hazy beach scene. and stripes on transparent tops and knits. in the run-up to the album’s release, and reflect the impressionistic-looking a much-discussed Q&A with The New trees nearby. Ferragamo’s fall clothes, York Times’ Jon Caramanica, a former bags and shoes, of course, are the main editor at Complex magazine, where West attraction. Fans of the brand will find is still listed as a contributing editor. a familiar face in the Ukrainian-born And so W, sitting on something of a Werbowy, who has now headlined get, is posting the profile online today three campaigns. at 9 a.m., in advance of the August This is shaping up to be a issue’s release to newsstands on July memorable season for Sims, who For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. 16, to coincide with the launch of its has earned high marks for the Web site’s redesign. Prada campaign featuring Christoph W’s site hasn’t been redesigned Waltz. Earlier this month, the in a little more than two-and-a-half photographer’s wife Luella Bartley was years, and the overhaul, done in named design director at Marc by Spaces collaboration with the luxury digital Marc Jacobs. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG agency firm Sweden Unlimited, is aiming to raise its audience COMMERCIAL of a little more than a million REAL ESTATE New York Embroidery Studio Private Label Sales Executive monthly uniques. Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking Large, well financed, US based, state novelty embellishments NYC, China & India of the art manufacturer with US, Dom- The overhaul also includes 212-971-9101 [email protected] inican and Haitian manufacturing fa- a new mobile site, responsive PATTERNS, SAMPLES, cilities is seeking a high level sales ex- PRODUCTIONS ecutive to sell private label programs to all devices, to capitalize Full service shop to the trade. to large retailers and branded compa- on growing traffic coming 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 nies. Core competency in casuals, Menswear Showrooms dress, tactical inspired bottoms, work from smartphones. D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 related categories, as well as accesso- ries such as headgear, gloves, belts, Stefano Tonchi, W’s editor and packs. For more information con- Showrooms & Lofts tact Jane Topper at 636-685-1073. in chief, said the new site BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS privileges images over text. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Salesman: Jewelry Importer is looking ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 for sales person with experience focus He looked at the sites of other on distributors, mass and chain stores. fashion magazines and it seemed Good compensation. Tel : 718-321-3760 Email: [email protected] that navigation was driven by lists and “a lot of words. SALES Seeking an experienced self starting “What’s missing out there is entrepreneurial with established con- a Web site that can make you tacts at mass & chain store accounts for a womens and juniors woven & dream,” Tonchi said. “We gave knit top line. Please email your re- sumes to: [the designers] this briefing [email protected] of creating a visual network, something that resembles a refrigerator door in your house, where there [are] a lot of things (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] that are interesting and one goes on top of the other. We A look at Ferragamo’s fall campaign.

w24a011a;9.indd 11 6/21/13 5:58 PM 06212013175842 12 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 24, 2013 WWD.COM Zoe App Merges Gaming and Fashion the site links back to the brand’s Hudson Jeans, Yigal Azrouël, storm,” said Uri Minkoff, chief ball or beachside stroll. Winners By DAVID LIPKE e-commerce site — so when a Joie, Nanette Lepore, Erin executive officer of Rebecca are chosen via peer voting in most player fancies a virtual look, she Fetherston, Dannijo, Fenton Minkoff. “Crowdstar has had a challenges, while others will be RACHEL ZOE has teamed with can buy it in real life. Fallon, Halston Heritage, lot of success with their other judged by experts, such as Zoe. social gaming company Crowdstar “Everyone knows that I’m com- Sigerson Morrison, Mara games and they really seem to “You can learn about fashion, to launch a mobile fashion game, pletely obsessed with fashion, Hoffman, Botkier, Three Dots, be best of breed in this space.” interact with fashion and use it called Covet Fashion, that the star style and anything glamorous and Miguelina and Minnie Mortimer as a stepping stone to purchase stylist thinks is pretty major — beautiful. I think everyone can — signaling the fashion-savvy fashion,” said Jeffrey Tseng, ceo and bananas. and should have style, and what audience the app is targeting. of Crowdstar. “We’re bridging Going live in early July, the better way than to experiment Digitally rendered illustra- different worlds here. You’re app allows users to dress up vir- and play with it online?” said Zoe tions of each brand’s in-sea- styling, you’re sharing and son collections are presented you’re shopping.” on Covet Fashion for users to At launch, Crowdstar is not Rachel Zoe buy with virtual cur- charging affiliate fees to par- rency. The results are ticipating brands, but that may EXCLUSIVE remarkably realistic. change down the road. The app’s “One of the things that initial revenue will come from impressed me was users who purchase additional vir- the aesthetic of the game and tual currency for use in the game. how real the products look. It’s A functional benefit to brands a very intelligent game — it is the analytics users generate doesn’t dumb down fashion,” from their mixing and matching explained Zoe, who is also of looks — data that is shared by marketing her own Rachel Zoe Crowdstar. “We can see if cer- Collection label on the app. Looks at the game interface. tain brands or styles or colors Fashion-themed games have are being used a lot in New York proliferated online, from Me Crowdstar’s previous games versus Los Angeles,” explained Girl, which allows players to like Top Girl and Top Stylist — Tseng. “We can see if certain pretend they are Teen Vogue which are less sophisticated types of shoes are being paired interns, to Fashion Week Live, than Covet Fashion and don’t with a top from Joie, for example, a Facebook game that launched integrate actual brands — have and what kind of bag was most COIT last year with participation from attracted 30 million mobile often used to complete a look.” IMG Worldwide and DKNY. users and 25 million Facebook Covet Fashion offers brands JUSTIN Covet Fashion is unique in mar- fans. Founded in 2008, the an effective marketing tool on BY rying real-world product with a Burlingame, Calif.-based com- mobile, said Blair Ethington,

PHOTO highly sophisticated interface pany has garnered $43 million vice president of studios that incorporates social media in funding to date, with key in- and marketing at Crowdstar. tual avatars in current-season of the paper-dolls-for-adults con- sharing and mobile commerce. vestors including Time Warner “Consumers tend to be blind to product from real-world brands. cept, which will only be available “We know that women love Investments and Intel Capital. banners and interstitials on their Players enter styling contests on Apple’s iOS platform. fashion and increasingly love The Covet Fashion app is phones and tablets. This is a way with their avatars, winning Crowdstar has already signed gaming, and the idea of hav- centered on daily styling events, for a brand to advertise but not both online currency and actual more than 60 designer and con- ing consumers playing with or challenges, which are based obstruct the user experience,” prizes. For participating com- temporary brands for the game’s digitized versions of our actual on different themes, such as she noted. By turning shopping panies, the real reward is that introduction, including Rebecca product and then being able to Hamptons’ white party, Newport into a game, on Covet Fashion every digitized fashion item on Minkoff, Cynthia Rowley, buy it seemed like the perfect yachting regatta, black and white the brand is the experience. Pergay to Design Pieces for Fendi Hudson’s Bay Co. Forlì, Italy-based Club House Italia, as Zeroes In on Saks By MILES SOCHA its “long arm into the world of design.” A rendering of an exploding He hinted that future Fendi flag- cabinet by Maria Pergay for {Continued from page one} PARIS — Extending its ties to the in- ships would also incorporate one-of-a- Fendi’s Paris flagship. create synergies and cost savings involv- teriors domain, Fendi has tapped vet- kind furnishings and objects by talents ing consolidating staff, back-office functions eran furniture designer Maria Pergay from the design realm. The Paris flag- and Internet operations. The Toronto-based to craft three pieces for its forthcom- ship is to open July 3 during couture Hudson’s Bay Co. operates 90 Hudson’s Bay ing Avenue Montaigne flagship here, week in Paris. stores and 69 Home Outfitters stores across and will re-introduce five of her icon- Pergay’s reeditions are to be un- Canada, and 48 Lord & Taylor stores and ic designs for its Fendi Casa home veiled later this year, and sold in Club three L&T outlets in the U.S. furnishings line. House Italia’s retail stores, Beccari Some private equity firms, such as Thomas The limited-edition items will kick noted. Lee and Leonard Green, have been kicking off a series of Fendi Casa Icons cap- Fendi Casa accounts for about 80 the tires of Saks and it is believed Middle sule collections, and signals closer percent of Club House’s sales, which Eastern sovereign wealth funds are interest- links between the Roman fashion totaled 72 million euros, or $94 mil- ed, as well, and could outbid Hudson’s Bay, house and one of its largest licensed lion, in 2012. though one industry source said there is not categories. Silvia Venturini Fendi, the widespread interest in buying the depart- Pietro Beccari, Fendi’s chairman brand’s creative director of acces- ment store chain. and chief executive officer, described sories and men’s wear, said Pergay Last week, Baker reorganized his Fendi Casa, licensed since 1989 to echoes Fendi’s approach to design, in its combination of ancient and fu- top management at Hudson’s Bay, nam- turistic techniques and references. ing Bonnie Brooks vice chairman and Liz “I like her aesthetic. She experi- Rodbell president, succeeding Brooks, rais- ments a lot,” Fendi said. “She works ing speculation that Hudson’s Bay was pur- with steel, which is a very masculine suing Saks. “He’s close to a Saks deal so he material, but she makes it feminine couldn’t risk losing Brooks and had to pro- and sensual. So she is the perfect per- mote Liz to stabilize the management,” said son to represent our aesthetic.” one source. Brooks and Rodbell are veteran Pergay rose to fame in the merchants and would be indispensable if Seventies with designs such as her Hudson’s Bay bought Saks. steel ring chairs. Also last week, at Hudson’s Bay’s annual Fendi and Pergay will also collabo- meeting, Baker said the retailer can offer rate on two rooms at the 2013 edition the same brands carried at Saks, Macy’s of Intérieurs, an annual design exhibi- and Kohl’s, and that on the merchandising tion mounted by the French edition of front, “the future opportunities at Hudson’s Architectural Digest. Bay are huge.” Condé Nast France chief Xavier Goldman Sachs is working on strategic Romatet hosted a press conference alternatives for Saks, to maximize share- here Thursday to give a preview of holder value, including a possible sale of the event, slated for Sept. 7 to 22 and the company. Though Saks stock has gener- themed “Metamorphisis,” with Fendi ally languished for years, only perking up as an official partner. Other partici- when Goldman Sachs came into the picture pating designers in the showcase at for a possible sale, the company has lately the L’Enclos des Bernardins include been performing better and weeding out Christian Biecher, Vincent Darré and weak stores. A rendering of a room imagined by Pergay and Fendi for Intérieurs. Pierre Yovanovitch. Hudson’s Bay officials declined comment.