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MEN’S MAKEOVER BARNEYS CONTINUES REVAMP OF ITS MEN’S DEPARTMENT FRESH START AT THE FLAGSHIP. A NEW APPAREL FACTORY IN HAITI AIMS TO BE THE MODEL OF CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY. PAGE 7 PAGE 6

WWDTUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 MORE STORES, MORE CATEGORIES Steps Up Rollout of Topshop men’s departments will be added By DAVID MOIN across the country starting in late September, bringing the total NORDSTROM INC. is ready to number of Nordstrom stores with blow out its Topshop partnership Topshop and to 42 and 18, — and it could prove to be the respectively, and that “a complete- model for other brand deals. ly refreshed design” for the British Originally, Nordstrom was dis- brand’s in-store departments, and creet, cautiously taking the trendy a national social media campaign, Topshop and Topman to smaller are on the agenda. markets amid concerns it would “It’s definitely working,” be out of sync with the understated Nordstrom told WWD. “We can Nordstrom ambience. But in an ex- literally measure that Topshop is clusive interview last week, Pete attracting a lot of new customers. Nordstrom, president of merchan- The average age is signifi cantly dising, discussed the partnership younger — like 10 years young- in depth for the fi rst time since the er than the typical Nordstrom’s deal was unveiled in July 2012, and women’s apparel customer.” He disclosed that the -based characterized Topshop as “a really upscale department store will be big catalyst to Nordstrom’s showcasing Topshop and Topman in authority” and a “big part” of the more of its larger, urban locations. company’s strategic initiative to He said 28 Topshop women’s attract younger fashion customers. departments and eight Topman SEE PAGE 12 Game Over: William Ackman Selling All of J.C. Penney Stake in Target Corp. and Borders By EVAN CLARK Group, were his nine-year-old fi rm’s three “failures.” WILLIAM ACKMAN’S throwing in “Clearly, has not been our the towel at J.C. Penney Co. Inc. strong suit, and this is duly noted,” The lightning rod activist inves- he wrote to Pershing shareholders. tor arranged on Monday to sell his The investor will have ultimately 39.1 million shares of Penney’s in paid dearly for his Penney’s ad- a stock offering being underwrit- venture. Last week, he said the Art ten by Citigroup — beginning the stock was trading at more than a process that will end his dramatic 40 percent discount versus his cost three-year run as a central fi gure to build the stake, through share at the struggling company. The purchases, call options and other stake represents 17.7 percent of fi nancial instruments. Penney’s stock. Ackman is one of Wall Street’s Ackman, chief executive of- highest-profi le investors and does fi cer of Pershing Square Capital not shy away from jumping into Management, said last week that troubled companies, pushing Fair Abstract painterly Penney’s, along with investments SEE PAGE 11 prints gave resort collections a colorful, contemporary art touch, such as Milly’s nylon and elastane top and skirt. Hadria by Adrianna Beer necklaces and bracelets. For more, see pages 4 and 5.

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE ANDREW SHANG ASSISTANT: ZHE ZHU; FASHION COSMETICS; STELLA PHOTO ASSISTANT: DAVID FOR ELLIS FAAS MAKEUP BY MGMT; JASON MURILLO/1+1 MODEL: ONA MARIJA/FUSION MODELS; HAIR BY 2 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 WWD.COM VF to Launch Innovation Hubs ers are willing to pay more for something that’s new the Briefing Box By aRNolD J. KaRR and innovative,” he said. “Whether it’s the way that the product looks or the way it performs, innova- in Today’s WWd VF CoRP. Will oPeN three innovation centers tion gets people to open up their wallets, especially — dedicated to new frontiers in technical apparel, in tougher economic climates.” footwear and jeans — during the first half of 2014. With 2012 sales of $10.9 billion and projected Sydney Albertini the company will establish the technical ap- sales of $17.3 billion by 2017, VF is the largest u.S.- is set to launch parel facility in alameda, Calif., home of the North based apparel supplier and has been on something SydneyToWear. For Face; the jeanswear center in greensboro, N.C., of an innovation tear for the past three years. more, see WWD.com. home of the parent firm and the Wrangler brand, “in 2010, we first laid out our vision for the role and the footwear base in Stratham, N.h., the home that innovation would play in VF’s growth,” said of timberland. the centers will be staffed with eric Wiseman, chairman, president and chief ex- teams of scientists, engineers, technical designers ecutive officer. “the move is critical to advancing and other key talent. our journey as it gives us a competitive advantage

Bob Shearer, senior vice president and chief finan- in the apparel industry. We will fully leverage what ichner cial officer of V F, told WWD that the centers are likely we learn by sharing output from the innovation e to be situated in buildings apart from VF’s existing centers across our 30-plus brands.” Steve physical plants. “this is in addition to the product- at the same meeting, Stephen Dull, VF’s vice development people we already have working for our president of strategy and innovation, said that

brands,” he said. “this is a bit longer term — looking ideas developed since the 2010 innovation commit- Photo by down the road a few years — and, while ultimately this ment have already resulted in $400 million in an- is all about generating revenues and improving our nual sales and are seen expanding to $1.6 billion in gross margin, we want the centers to be independent.” revenues over the next three years. Nordstrom is ready to blow out its Topshop partnership and he said the locations will lift VF’s corporate among recent innovations already launched or it could prove be the model for other brand deals. Page 1 head count but that the exact budgets for them were about to be shipped are Flash Dry and thermoball still being worked out, as were the allocations of moisture-management products from the North William Ackman on Monday arranged to sell his 39.1 space and the precise reporting structure for each. Face, lee’s Shapetastic offerings, Wrangler’s modi- million shares of J.C. Penney Co. Inc. Page 1 Shearer said the centers are seen as providing a fication of its MWZ 13 cowboy jeans, Slim illusion good deal of cross-pollination, with developments technology at Seven For all Mankind and fire-resis- Barneys New York has renovated the sixth-floor men’s for one product category often being applicable to tant apparel with better comfort characteristics in department of its flagship.Page 6 others, and that VF’s coalition and brand execu- its Bulwark career apparel assortment. although

tives are expected to “commission” ideas to solve principally dependent on third parties for produc- specific consumer needs. tion, VF manufactures about 500 million units a Bloomingdale’s swept across the U.K. to shoot the Best of “We’ve understood for a long time that consum- year and operates 32 plants of its own. Men’s and Young Men’s trend catalogues for fall. Page 8

On Zushi Beach in Japan, there are die-hard beachgoers for whom no tan is too dark and no bikini too tiny. Page 9

Averyl Oates to Join Galeries Lafayette The first part of the Sundance Channel’s “Revealing: it lays out its stores, putting more accessible brands Extravagance” examines the obsession with luxury. Page 9 By Julia Neel in front of the Chanels and the guccis,” she said. oates will be reporting to Michel Roulleau, com- Oscar de la Renta on Sept. 10 will stage a single show for — averyl oates will join the galeries mercial director and deputy general manager of the spring with a maximum capacity of 350. Page 11 lafayette team as fashion director and deputy commer- department stores division. She will have respon- cial director within the group’s department stores divi- sibility across the men’s, women’s, accessories and sion (galeries lafayette and BhV), WWD has learned. children’s departments, as well as detection of new on WWD.CoM her first day on the job in the newly created role trends; applying her vision to define and implement will be Monday. new concepts; commercial policies, pricing, mar- EYE: Artist Sydney Albertini is prepping the launch of “i love the fact that they’re looking to make dy- gin, inventory management across her departments; a capsule collection, SydneyToWear, next month for namic changes; i can bring a little bit more edge to overseeing the openings of the company’s new stores, FiveStory. For more, see WWD.com. the company, a fashion twist and look, and a future and defining the fashion policy of those stores, and vision, which they’re wanting to embrace,” oates told building on her strong existing relationships. To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is WWD over the phone from Nairobi after her holiday oates added that she was looking forward to [email protected], using The individual’s name. on lamu. “they are really focused on their interna- working with chief executive officer Nicolas houzé, WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. tional expansion plans and while i don’t think they who assumed that role in March, and fulfilling her VOLUME 206, NO. 41. TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, are necessarily looking to embrace emerging design- profit and loss responsibilities. Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional ers, they have a company motto of ‘fashion for every- Previously, oates was commercial director at issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: one.’ they talk to everyone of all different walks.” luxup, the invitation-only luxury Web site offer- S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. oates acknowledged that the notion of mixing ing international, high-spending tourists exclusive Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian high end and high street within a wardrobe is not shopping experiences and one-off products, which Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to new. “[galeries lafayette] is very modern in the way ceased trading in March. P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800- 289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. 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Visit us online at and has 298,923 post-likes. Next lancôme with its 230,394 post- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub. WhiCh BeautY brand has the was Mary Kay, which posted 53 likes and 46 posts last month. com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at most engaged Facebook consum- P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE ers? the answer might surprise you. FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER according to Stylophane, UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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fairchildphotoservice.com | 866.686.2106 | [email protected] 4 WWD tuesday, august 27, 2013

Nicole Miller Artelier’s viscose Cynthia Rowley’s silk Cédric Charlier’s georgette top; Tibi’s silk twill twill top and pants. cotton coat. Jen skirt. Tibi . All jewelry by Kao shoes. Hadria by Adrianna Beer.

Rachel Comey’s silk and cotton top and pants.

w27a004(5)a.indd 1 8/26/13 5:55 PM 08262013175646 WWD tuesday, august 27, 2013 5 WWD.COM

gallery andrew shang assistant: zhe zhu; fashion assistant: cosmetics: stella photo for ellis faas

girlART, fAsHioN ANd CoMMeRCe Collided foR ResoRT wiTH ABsTRACT expRessioNisT pRiNTs THAT iNfused weARABle silHoueTTes wiTH AN ARTisTiC poiNT of view.

pHoTos By THoMAs iANNACCoNe; sTyled By MAyTe AlleNde makeup: david mgmt; model: ona/fusion models; hair: jason murillo/1+1

w27a004(5)a.indd 2 8/26/13 5:55 PM 08262013175648 6 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 Barneys Continues Madison Ave. Makeover

“We’re creating an air of dis- By JEAN E. PALMIERI covery,” he added. “But all of the brands fit the bill for young, mod- NEW YORK — Ninety years ern men looking for tailored cloth- after its founding and 20 years ing and sportswear. And it’s not after the opening of its Madison just the environment, it’s the fit as Avenue flagship, Barneys New well. Everything is much slimmer.” York continues to reinvent itself. As an example, Lee pointed The upscale retailer over the to Brendan Mullane, creative di- weekend completed the renova- rector of , who has helped tion of the sixth-floor men’s de- reinvent that venerable brand. partment, creating a new home for “He was Riccardo Tisci’s right- classic European brands includ- hand man,” he said. “This is not ing Ermenegildo , Brioni, your father’s or your grandfa- , Kiton, Giorgio and ther’s brand. It’s newer, fresher Uman, as well as an expanded and for a more-fit customer.” made-to-measure department. Kalenderian said that when “We’re trying to break away the Madison Avenue store opened from the old notion of classic 20 years ago, the men’s store of- or designer brands,” said Mark fered three floors devoted to cloth- Lee, chief executive officer. ing: contemporary, traditional and “The boundaries between clas- better luxury. Today, there are sic and fashion are not relevant only two floors, but offer- today. At the end of the day, ings are sprinkled throughout the Barneys is about modernity and store, reflecting the shopping hab- we’re housing everything in a The made-to-measure area has been expanded. its of today’s man. modern environment.” “Now our business is strongest Tom Kalenderian, executive in luxury clothing and contempo- vice president and general mer- rary,” Kalenderian said. “So we’ve chandise manager of men’s wear, evolved. The young guy is looking said the sixth floor previously for luxury and the older guy is housed classic and traditional looking for a modern fit. And we vendors — “almost all American. have what he needs, whether it’s Those suppliers are still relevant, on two floors or three.” but the contemporary element of Lee said Barneys looks at the our business continues to grow.” sixth floor, not as a clothing de- Years ago, Lee added, the partment, but as a “collections floor would have been designed floor,” since the brand offer- with a “cliché” of classic men’s ing includes luxury sportswear wear elements including “dark pieces as well. “This is fairly wood and leather club chairs” to new for us,” he said. “We started create a traditional men’s store transitioning about a year ago. aesthetic. “But that was deliber- This had been billed as a suit ately struck. Instead, we let it be floor, but we buy and merchan- clean, simple and modern so the dise everything as collections.” brands could shine.” Kalenderian said the brands The new design features mir- too see the opportunity to increase ror-finish stainless steel cases; their business by expanding their metal, wood and marble fixtures; The Madison Avenue windows were dedicated to men’s wear. offering. “They used to be all-cloth- intimate seating areas; columns ing brands,” he said. “But now wrapped in leather; limestone chandise, followed by the fourth “We’ve finished the ground myself.” Freedman is Barneys’ they’re head to toe. This is the way floors; cerused oak wood millwork floor, home to sportswear. floor and this,” Lee said during creative director. people live and shop today. And cabinetry, and hand-woven rugs. When completed, Barneys a walkthrough of the sixth floor “We wanted to continue the this is easier to navigate.” Lighting has also been enhanced to will have an eight-level men’s Monday morning. “It will give us clean and modern approach, but He added: “Casual Friday better showcase the merchandise. store, which Lee has called “un- a jump start on the season: pre- evolve our concept by bringing may have left our vocabulary, Over the past two years, precedented — that’s an incred- Labor Day we’re planting the flag in classic artisanal techniques but it changed our lives.” Barneys has been undergoing a ibly unique and powerful state- and saying we’re open and ready.” and materials, such as geomet- Barneys men’s fall catalogue massive renovation project at the ment in terms of men’s.” The floor was designed by ric folded plaster walls and also showcases the complete Madison Avenue store. It started The retailer has not said what Steven Harris Architects of New leather wrapped columns,” said lifestyle offering of the brands it in July 2011 in the women’s store it is spending to revamp the flag- York. The ground floor was de- Freedman. “These luxurious de- carries, mixing Brioni with Inis and the ground floor of the men’s ship, which opened in 1993. signed by Yabu Pushelberg. tails help give the space added Meáin, Maison Martin Margiela store — featuring accessories — However, since Lee joined the “Yabu did a great job, but we texture and warmth.” and Jil Sander. “It’s a state- was completed in June. In addi- company as ceo in 2010, Barneys want to keep evolving,” Lee said. Another new element on the ment to say it’s all equal,” Lee tion to the sixth- and ground-floor has been on a reinvention cam- “Keep it fresh and keep it moving.” floor is the elimination of the said. “There are no barriers, no men’s departments, Barneys has paign. It underwent a change in He said the design is “very walls between the men’s and boundaries. It’s all chic and el- completed the renovation of its ownership, with Perry Capital, much in keeping with a gallery women’s stores, which allows egant and high-quality.” men’s and women’s Co-ops on managed by Richard Perry, be- feel — simplistic and open.” He for a more seamless shopping Between Zegna and Isaia is the eighth and seventh floors, coming majority owner, and The said Steven Harris is also the experience. A “horizontal con- an expanded made-to-measure respectively, and opened a large Yucaipa Cos., another key lender architect for the lower-level nection,” as Lee called it, has department where the store new area on the fifth floor. run by Ronald Burkle, as a minor- cosmetics department reno- now been created on the ground can take orders for clothing and Lee has said the 230,000-square- ity owner. The debt-for-equity deal vation in New York — sched- floor, fifth, sixth and eighth furnishings. Located behind a foot store will continue to be in 2011 cleaned up the retailer’s uled to be completed in early floors. The ninth-floor Chelsea couple of partitions, the area pro- renovated at the pace of “a couple balance sheet, wiped out practi- October — as well as Beverly Passage department had also vides privacy, but is also domi- of floors a year.” Next up is the cally all of its $550 million in debt Hills. Lee said the sixth floor been comingled. “Step by step,” nant on the floor. Zegna also has a seventh-floor men’s department, and gave Barneys the funds for is more indicative of the “aes- he said, “we’re getting there.” dedicated made-to-measure table which houses contemporary mer- some capital improvements. thetic of Dennis Freedman and By creating crossover areas, that has been added to its area. it allows the store to showcase “This customer needed an men’s and women’s brands to- uplift,” Lee said of the made-to- gether, including Fioroni, a new measure area, which includes luxury Italian knitwear line custom shirts from Hamilton being launched exclusively for and others. “It’s a very produc- fall. Separate men’s and wom- tive and high-volume area, so he en’s presentations for Fioroni needed a better experience.” THOMAS IANNACCONE are housed in the area, along Kalenderian said the service with Salvatore Piccolo shirts, is also offered elsewhere in the Massimo Alba, Inis Meáin, , store, including the seventh floor. and Greg Lauren. Lee said the seventh floor — “The horizontal connection which now looks like “the odd gets the woman to walk over man out in the building” — will into men’s,” Lee said. be renovated early next year.

ALL OTHERS BY TOM SIBLEY; What she’ll find on the new To celebrate the new men’s sixth floor, Kalenderian said, department, Barneys will hold a are “key anchor brands” such party tonight called Man Up, with as Zegna, Brioni, Kiton, Incotex New York Rangers goalie Henrik and Armani, as well as artisan Lundqvist and Y&R’s David Sable labels such as Sartorio, a new cohosting the event with Lee. The sixth floor features a modern design. line from Kiton that he said Proceeds from the event will ben-

PHOTO BY WINDOW DISPLAY Barneys is “developing.” efit the U.S. Fund for UNICEF. WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 7 WWD.COM A Revolutionary Factory Opens in Haiti

tions of garment construction. A modular By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN manufacturing system results in better Rob Broggi (left) quality, fewer injuries and worker em- in the factory. A NEW FACTORY is about to begin powerment, the company notes on its production in the Haitian capital of Web site. Port-au-Prince that aims to be a model IRII has the support of such heavy of corporate social responsibility, hitters as actor-producer Matt Damon, while answering the call for aiding the who is a founding partner, and advisory beleaguered Caribbean nation with board member Donna Karan, who over- quality jobs and a commitment to in- sees and is involved in many Haitian vest in the community. business and cultural projects, and Fern Industrial Revolution II wants to Mallis, former senior vice president of be a different kind of garment factory, IMG Fashion and former executive direc- one that values social advancement for tor of the Council of Fashion Designers its workers just as much as providing of America. Broggi said having such fashionable products to customers. The people on board adds to the credibility factory is the brainchild of several en- and awareness of the company. He said trepreneurs, designers, executives and the recent Bangladesh tragedies have celebrities, and is run by Rob Broggi, a created a wave of response and a louder former finance industry executive who call for change, which he hopes leads to is a founding partner and the firm’s more companies taking IRII’s approach chief executive officer. and more people caring where and how Broggi said many people involved in their clothes are made. Haiti relief efforts and businesses were Broggi said IRII is going into produc- frustrated by the lack of efficacy of the tion in a few weeks, with the first two aid programs and charity models oper- training teams in place now, and “we ating in the country in the wake of the devastating earthquake that hit there in January 2010 and caused 230,000 Inside IRII’s Port-au-Prince factory. Training the workers. deaths, 300,000 injuries and displaced about 2 million people. “So a group of us got together and thought we could potentially create more sustainable change through job creation and economic development, particularly higher-value job creation,” Broggi said. “The people in Haiti don’t want hand- outs and charity. They want jobs and to be able to take care of their families.” IRII operates under a shared-value business model, investing 50 percent of company profits into workers, their families and the community through health and wellness programs, train- ing and education initiatives and pub- lic infrastructure. “These are programs that will be im- very quickly expect to ramp up to a cou- Digital and Avalanche that allow unlim- the sustainability of the CIP, power plant plemented in partnerships with groups ple of hundred employees.” ited color and design capabilities for and port are interdependent, and each that have been operating in Haiti for a He said at full operation, the factory fashion printing and custom runs. These must be completed and viable for the long time,” Broggi said. “We set a high should have the capacity to produce systems use only water-based, environ- others to succeed. USAID completed the bar for the working environment. At the 5 million units annually of knit goods, mentally friendly ink compliant with power plant’s first phase with less fund- same time, we’re also investing in our employing 280 to 300 people. Orders Oeko-Tex and GOTSV3 standards. ing than allocated and in time to supply business. If we have healthier, more pro- are in place for spring goods and a The company adheres to Better power to the first CIP tenant. Port con- ductive, better-trained, happier work- stock replenishment program for a cus- Work Haiti and Worldwide Responsible struction will not begin until at least two ers who are not stressed out about their tomer transitioning its production from Accredited Production standards. As years later than originally planned due housing situation and whether their kids Pakistan to IRII. The company has in- part of its funding engagement with the in part to a lack of USAID expertise in are going to be able to go to school, we’re vested in advanced training programs Inter-American Development Bank, IRII port planning in Haiti. going to have a much better, more pro- and technology, and is set up to handle created an extensive environmental and These problems were one reason IRII ductive factory and workforce. It’s a win- smaller orders and quick-turn requests. social management plan. decided to build in the capital rather win for everybody.” It has purchased the latest tech- The first two brands on the produc- than an initial plan to construct a green- Employees are being educated about nology from Pegasus and Juki and has in- tion line will be Boxercraft, an Atlanta- field factory in Croix-des-Bouquets, the entire manufacturing process and vested in state-of-the-market digital gar- based supplier of better spirit wear and southeast of Port-au-Prince, which the cross-trained to perform multiple func- ment printing technologies from Kornit sportswear, and Threads 4 Thought, a firm still hopes to do down the road. sustainable apparel brand headquar- “We decided to go with a less risky tered in New York. proposition, to take an existing, defunct Broggi feels the progress in Haiti factory in Port-au-Prince and completely THE FIBER PRICE SHEET is proceeding well. He said Haitian renovate it,” he said. “It’s right by the President Michel Martelly and Prime airport and seaport, and near other fac- Minister Laurent Lamothe are focused tories with an infrastructure in place. The last Tuesday of every month, WWD publishes the current, month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. on making it easier to do business in We want to get out of the gate, prove this Prices listed reflect the cost of one pound of fiber or, in the case of crude oil, one barrel. Haiti, and former President Bill Clinton model, create a track record and build a Price on Price on Price on has spent a lot of time working with the customer base. So far the response from FIBER 8/26/13 7/29/13 8/27/12 administration to put the right systems in the brands has been great.” place to operate there efficiently. Broggi is confident of IRII’s suc- COTTON 84.08 CENTS 80.92 CENTS 69.7 CENTS A U.S. Government Accountability cess, adding, “Who would not want to WOOL $4.06 $4.32 $4.64 Office report issued in June said as of sell a quality product that has a hang March 31, the U.S. Agency for Interna- tag on it, at no extra cost, that says this POLYESTER STAPLE $1.14 $1.12 82.5 CENTS tional Development had obligated $293 was manufactured in a socially respon- POLYESTER FILAMENT $1.03 $1.01 72 CENTS million, or 45 percent, and disbursed sible way where half the profit gets re- $204 million, or 31 percent, of $651 mil- invested in the community?” He noted JULY SYNTHETIC PPI 124.3 124.9 122.8 lion in funding for Haiti from the Sup- that manufacturing in Haiti also makes CRUDE OIL $106.42 $104.70 $96.27 plemental Appropriations Act of 2010. business sense for U.S. brands that USAID has allocated $170.3 million to want to take advantage of the country’s *THE WOOL PRICE IS BASED ON THE AVERAGE PRICE FOR THE WEEK ENDED AUG. 23 OF 11 DIFFERENT THICKNESSES OF FIBER, RANGING construct a power plant and port in duty-free trade status, nearby produc- FROM 18 MICRONS TO 30 MICRONS, ACCORDING TO THE WOOLMARK CO. INFORMATION ON COTTON AND POLYESTER PRICING IS PROVIDED northern Haiti to support the newly de- tion with fast shipping and lead times, BY THE CONSULTING FIRM DEWITT & CO. THE SYNTHETIC-FIBER PRODUCER INDEX, OR PPI, IS COMPILED BY THE BUREAU OF LABOR veloped Caracol Industrial Park, which and low cost structure. STATISTICS AND REFLECTS THE OVERALL CHANGE IN ALL SYNTHETIC-FIBER PRICES. IT IS NOT A PRICE IN DOLLARS BUT A MEASUREMENT OF HOW PRICES HAVE CHANGED SINCE 1982, WHICH HAD A PPI OF 100. OIL PRICES REFLECT LAST WEEK’S CLOSING PRICE ON THE NEW YORK includes Sae-A Trading Co.’s apparel The bottom line for Broggi: “It is our MERCANTILE EXCHANGE OF FUTURE CONTRACTS FOR LIGHT, SWEET CRUDE OIL TO BE DELIVERED NEXT MONTH. factory that opened last October. But mission at IRII to prove that creating so- GAO said the Caracol park has had some cial progress and a thriving business need problems. The agency’s report noted that not be mutually exclusive endeavors.” 8 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 WWD.COM Bloomingdale’s Takes On Britain

AllSaints, Karen Millen, Reiss bloomingdales.com, on screens By SAMANTHA CONTI and Ted Baker for apparel, as in-store and on iHeartRadio. well as The Cambridge Satchel “Christopher talked about LONDON — The summer sun Co., Links of London and Stella music and fashion, British culture, bore down on the streets of McCartney in accessories. In the Internet — his passions and Spitalfields, East London, and home, exclusive products will his favorite spots in London,” said the fish and chips were luke- include pieces from Fringe, Harter, adding that he spent an af- warm. It wasn’t exactly a typi- Alessi, Royal Doulton and ternoon with Smith. “How charm- cal June day in Britain — but it William Yeoward. ing is Sir Paul Smith?” he said. “I could not have been a better one The women’s catalogue fea- had a one-hour walk-through of for Bloomingdale’s. tures the British model Lily his studio, and the whole experi- As part of “Brit Style,” a Donaldson on the cover wear- ence was so special.” storewide celebration of British ing a sweater by Aqua with the As reported, Bloomingdale’s fashion, tradition and popular Union Jack shaped like a heart. has created more than 250 exclu- culture, a creative team from The retailer has also teamed sives with some 50 British brands, Bloomingdale’s swept across up with Visit Britain, the na- including Beatles-inspired um- the U.K. for an action-packed tional tourism board, to cre- brellas with London Undercover; summer week to shoot the Best ate custom travel experiences four suits from Hardy Amies, of Men’s and Young Men’s trend with a fashion focus. The travel named the John, Paul, George catalogues for fall. packages, inspired by the land- and Ringo ($1,195); Beatles cuff One sunny June morning, scapes and venues that ap- links from Deakin & Francis (re- they shot looks on Savile Row, pear in the men’s catalogue, tail $300 to $350); printed bags, Westminster Bridge, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament and the Coach & Horses pub on Bruton Street in Mayfair. Later that afternoon, they took to the pavement outside the grand East London homes of the ear- ly-18th-century Huguenot silk weavers, with their wooden con- certina shutters and glass hurri- cane lamps lovingly restored by the current residents. After London, the team moved on to the Sussex countryside, and to Liverpool’s Penny Lane. Shoots also took place in Snowdonia and Anglesey in Wales; at Eilean Donan Castle, near the Isle of Skye in the Western Highlands of Scotland, and at Aldourie Castle on the shores of Loch Ness. “We were researching the trends for fall ’13, and a lot were

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ retail-news. JENKINS JIM BY A TREASURE TROVE OF DESIGN INSPIRATION PHOTOS

Bloomingdale’s headed to the U.K. BECHARMED to shoot trend catalogues for fall.

BEHIND-THE-SCENES Beatles-inspired designs. inspired by Britain — there will be available exclusively shirts and bomber jackets from Want to make your necklaces, bracelets, key rings, or were tartans, plaids and tweeds. to Bloomingdale’s customers Paul Smith ($175 to $575); an as- entire jewelry sets extraordinary? With Swarovski’s unique London Fashion Week is getting through American Express. sortment of T-shirts from Ted bigger, there are new designers There is a partnership Baker ($99), and patterned shirts BeCharmed range, your creative possibilities are endless. coming up, and it’s The Beatles’ planned with Clear Channel from Thomas Pink ($250). Lustrous brilliance and practical functionality unite in a 50th anniversary. It was the per- Media & Entertainment where There is also a collection of fect time to call out British fash- Bloomingdale’s will create a Beatles album covers, reproduced blazing array of colors and effects for purely magical results. ion,” said Kevin Harter, vice custom station on iHeartRadio with permission of Apple Corp. president of fashion direction featuring hand-selected music Ltd., which hold printed pocket Make your sparkling dreams come true with the BeCharmed for men and home.“This is one from the U.K. and two concerts squares produced by Turnbull & Collection: BeCharmed Bead, Crystal BeCharmed Pearl, of the most special catalogues in October that will be live- Asser, that will retail for $150. we have ever done.” streamed on iHeartRadio.com At the shoot in East London, BeCharmed Rondelle and BeCharmed Pavé. He said the store tried to and bloomingdales.com/ukrocks. a photographer snapped model strike a balance between heri- The concert on Oct. 10 will fea- Alex Dunstan decked in a Call now for details +1.800.463.0849 or email tage names such as Hardy ture Emeli Sandé and Jake Bugg, leather jacket, waistcoat and Amies, Turnbull & Asser, while Rita Ora will perform on trousers by Farrell as Blur’s [email protected]. Burberry and Liberty, and up- Oct. 17. Both concerts will take “Country House” played in the and-comers such as Farrell, a place at the iHeartRadio Theater background. Fast-forward a few line created by English musi- in New York. minutes and the model rapidly cian Robbie Williams; Oliver Five winners will be flown changed into a two-tone gray Spencer, and Kent & Curwen. by the store to New York to at- Bespoken topcoat and claret- The promotion will kick off tend their choice of the con- colored trousers, with blue during the first week of Sep- certs, and will receive a $500 shoes from Local Uniform. tember at all 37 Bloomingdale’s Bloomingdale’s gift card. Decked in his autumnal stores, with the catalogues sent The store will also launch duds, the model gamely toted a to Bloomingdale’s top customers Talk is Chic, interviews with de- newspaper cone filled with fish and cardholders. signers including Sir Paul Smith and chips — the traditional way Although the catalogue fo- and Christopher Bailey, and of serving the famous dish, but cuses on men’s wear, women’s pop stars including Sandé and one that has all but disappeared brands that will be includ- Bugg on the impact of Britain on due to health fears linked with ed in the promotion include fashion, music and culture on the newspaper ink. MEMO PAD

LUXURY UNDER THE MICROSCOPE: “Revealing: Extravagance” isn’t your average fashion TV special. There’s no design contestants having meltdowns, sharp , judges or biting criticism. The first of four specials on the Sundance Channel, “Revealing,” which airs Sept. 20 at 10 p.m., examines how modern society WWD STYLE has become obsessed with luxury. Reporter Joe Zee interviews Iman, Zac Posen, Narciso Rodriguez, Carolina Herrera and Valerie Steele, among others. He goes undercover to search for a Bling Ring, a gang of high-end thieves, called the Rainbow Girls. “Revealing” features several social experiments. One involves dressing a suburban soccer mom to the nines in couture clothing, shoes and a Birkin bag. Will her new duds serve her well or make her the object of scorn and envy in her community? Another experiment involves tricking up a sample sale with crazy items such as a rubber chicken handbag and grass-lined JASON DECROW PHOTO BY Joe Zee and Zac Posen in the Sundance Channel original series “Revealing.” flip-flops to see if shoppers will succumb to the pressure of staying on trend and buy the planted merchandise. Zee declined to reveal the themes for the three future specials but said, “They’ll be equally provocative and thoughtful.” Zee, creative director of Elle, said his time is split 50-50 between television and the magazine. “I’m the executive producer of ‘Revealing’ and I’ve been doing a lot behind the scenes,” he said. “I’m getting this up and running.” — SHARON EDELSON

SKY WRITER: French department store Galeries Lafayette has teamed up with graffiti artist André Saraiva to celebrate Fashion Week, which kicks off Sept. 24. Saraiva is to rope down the 92-foot-high facade of the Boulevard Haussmann flagship at 8 p.m. that evening to tag the giant billboard designed by Jean-Paul Goude that reads “Mode in Love.” The acrobatics will be accompanied by a live performance of British electro band Citizens. Five teasers featuring designers, models, dancers and fashion aficionados will go live on the store’s Web site and Facebook page on Sept. 4. These include videos clips of the Le-Tan siblings — Olympia Solar and Cléo — walking around the beauty space and the book shop, respectively, while actress Hailey Gates was shot on the designer floor. — LAURE GUILBAULT

HOW SWEDE IT IS: Gant has named Flair Caroline Roth its new global marketing director, effective Sunday. She joins the Swedish sportswear firm from Ralph ZUSHI, Japan — The practice of Lauren, where she had been senior catching rays may not have as director of marketing and global brand management since 2010. many adherents in Japan as it does At Gant, she succeeds Laurens van der elsewhere. Still, scores of sun Vijver and is to oversee marketing and brand management, as well as visual searchers headed an hour south merchandising and store concept of Tokyo to Zushi Beach amid the teams. A Swedish national, Roth has country’s recent heat wave. worked in fashion in her native land, and the U.S. For more, see page 10. A company with American roots, founded in New Haven in 1949, Gant AB is today owned by Swiss retail group PHOTO BY YUKIE MIYAZAKI Maus Frères SA and posted 2012 revenues of 9 billion Swedish krona, or $1.33 billion at average exchange rates. — MILES SOCHA 10 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013

oil paints in my studio and then tell the dyers, ‘This is the color I FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE want,’” she says. “I had all these Touchy Feely different dollops of mixed colors WWD.com/eye. around my studio.” The collection for SYDNEY ALBERTINI’S graphic colors and narrative,” she says. $200 to $350 and will be sold top is a conversation piece. “The narrative focus from the exclusively at FiveStory. “Isn’t it great?” she says, Italian Renaissance completely “The clothes only started to tugging on the of the influenced me. My work is based make sense to me once I saw boxy alabaster T-shirt, a toothy in that same aspect: piecing her art,” FiveStory owner Claire grin printed across it. “Aren’t things together to tell a story.” Distenfeld says. “From the second these fun?” Afterward, Albertini came I opened the door, I was like, She smiles, thumbing the to New York to study fine art at ‘I get it, it’s a whole pervasive textured teeth jutting out of the Parsons School of Design. Her concept,’” she says of first viewing printed mouth. The 40-year-old latest show, titled “And Also, I the collection during a visit to artist, slim and exuding an air Have No Idea,” which opened at Albertini’s East Hampton, N.Y., of Parisian unkempt cool in her the Parrish Museum Road Show studio. “Sydney had painted the makeup-less face and in Watermill, N.Y., on walls and done all the wallpaper, slouchy ensemble, is holed Aug. 10, is an interactive and she’d made the furniture up in a quiet corner of exhibition, with and her clothing matched the The National restaurant eye attendees encouraged to interiors. It was this totally in Midtown . touch her soft sculptures immersive sensory overload in “To me, clothing is a very and sit on the furniture the best possible way.” natural progression of my she fashioned herself. “I Distenfeld is hoping to artwork,” she says, neatly slicing wanted to go against the whole immerse others in Albertini’s in her hamburger — a divide- don’t-touch attitude,” she says. whimsical world; she’s and-conquer approach — that’s “I wanted to do something throwing a launch party in just arrived to the table. “It’s just very interactive, to create an September at FiveStory, which another form of expression of environment and invite people will be completely transformed me. It’s an extension of my work.” to be part of that environment.” à la Albertini. “We’re basically To wit: Albertini is prepping Though Albertini works in a handing her the keys,” the launch of a capsule range of media, her aesthetic is Distenfeld laughs of the Sept. collection, SydneyToWear, consistent. Her work is imbued 11 fete, during which FiveStory next month for FiveStory, the with a sense of whimsy through will be furnished in Albertini’s of-the-moment Upper East vivid colors and irreverent, paintings, drawings, furniture Side boutique. Until recently, abstracted shapes. They’re and sculptures. “She’s really fashion was virtually the only full of energy and movement, Sydney STEVE EICHNER going to be taking over the medium with which Albertini with even the subjects of her Albertini store,” Distenfeld says.

had yet to express herself. Her paintings seeming to wriggle off PHOTO BY Albertini says she plans on artwork spans from drawing and the canvas. Her ready-to-wear delineating the store fivefold, photography to installation and collection is no different. The into something much more The pieces were dyed in each representing a different performance. Albertini went to 27-piece lineup is grounded sophisticated and play with color California, then shipped to facet of woman: love, gratitude, art school in her native Paris in the sweatshirt. “For me, the and shape to give it that edginess Manhattan’s Garment District the beast, the animal and the at the Atelier de Sèvre, then sweatshirt is the epitome of and sense of subtle cool.” for construction. All the hues in warrior. “The warrior is like the studied fresco painting at Studio American style,” Albertini says, The collection is made the lineup — burnt saffron, deep wild woman, the fighter,” she Art Center International in brushing a wisp of blonde hair in America, with everything cerulean, acid citron, etc. — explains. “I mean, us women, . “In , I learned how from her face. “So we wanted fabricated in a fine terry cloth are original dyes concocted by we’re all warriors, am I right?” to do frescoes, so it was all about to take that idea and turn it sourced from North Carolina. Albertini. “I would mix different — TAYLOR HARRIS Pacific Sun JAPAN ISN’T EXACTLY a nation of sun worshippers. Many women take painstaking steps to shield their skin from the sun, wearing sunblock, carrying parasols and donning long sleeves on even the hottest of days. But on Zushi Beach, an hour south of Tokyo by train, there is definitely a core contingency of die-hard beachgoers for whom no tan is too dark and no bikini too tiny. As one of the best places to scope out sand and surf styles, this summer offered up an abundance of fringed tops, cutoff denim shorts and lacy or ruffled swimsuits in bold pinks, oranges and greens. Many women — some with sizable tattoos — layered two bikini bottoms, incorporating an accent color or into their look. — AMANDA KAISER

® THEY ARE WEARING

YUKIE MIYAZAKI PHOTOS BY WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 11 WWD.COM

distinctive traits in mind, an extremely perfectly brought out by Hemsworth in determined sportsman, obsessed with the period-evoking outfits.” The designer FASHION SCOOPS perfection, never leaving anything to noted that Miller’s style “is the essence chance, whether it be a strategic move of as it captures the mixture of or a stylistic detail,” said Giornetti. sexy allure and innocent naturalness that “To reflect his strong and unyielding defined the style of the time.” THE ENVELOPE, (PRETTY) PLEASE: Many Tuesday at 8 p.m., will likely have an character, I chose exclusive fabrics, clean “Rush” will open internationally on people will find one less show invitation overlap of models. De la Renta stressed cuts and sharp forms for his clothes: from Sept. 13. — LUISA ZARGANI in the in-box this season. Oscar de la Renta that while no one from the Rodriguez impeccably tailored fitted Prince of Wales has had his fill of the megaaudience camp complained last season, when jackets to short suede jackets with leather PASSAGE TO INDIA: To celebrate the approach to showing, cramming in one designer takes two slots in an combined with denim. A stylish launch in India of her Bisou Bisou “huge crowds of people with no direct immensely crowded schedule, it can and subtly refined allure that is also the brand — courtesy of a licensing deal connection to the clothes.” result in collateral issues. “I hate epitome of pure intrinsic elegance. All of with Reliance Trends — designer De la Renta wants those attendees to inconvenience other people, as I which is imbued with the unmistakable Michele Bohbot organized a fashion show with a legitimate professional purpose to hope other people wouldn’t want to fashion sense of the 1970s, which remains in Mumbai, appeared in stores and be able to see his clothes up close, sans inconvenience me,” he said. a source of highly modern inspiration.” spoke at Indian fashion universities. the now-standard pushing, shoving and The only solution: De la Renta will The film is set in the 1976 racing season. The Reliance agreement includes the jostling involved with entrée, exit and slash away at his list of invitees — by On the other hand, Hunt, played by immediate launch of 33 Bisou Bisou in- sometimes, staking out one’s seat. Given numbers that grew hyperbolically in a Chris Hemsworth, and his first wife Suzy store shops, followed by the rollout of the relatively tight conditions at his most three-minute conversation. Miller, portrayed by Olivia Wilde, in the the brand to 100 department stores, with recent venue, his showroom at 11 West “When you do megashows, it loses the movie are seen wearing Gucci archival more expansion in the future. 42nd Street, last season the designer reason of why we’re showing,” he said, pieces by creative director Frida Giannini. “I’ve been following the product, and staged two 316-seat shows to accommodate adding that anyone who’s interested can “The Seventies has always been a quality and print direction,” Bohbot those guests as well as others whose “see the show on the Internet 20 minutes decade that has inspired me greatly, so said. “I’m happy, but not thrilled yet with reasons for attendance may be more later. It’s important for [certain industry the product. That’s why I came here with ephemeral. No more. For his spring show professionals] to look at the clothes and see my assistant. They [Reliance] have a on Sept. 10, he will stage a single show them. They shouldn’t have to go through price point. It’s very difficult to give what with a maximum capacity of 350. 30,000 people, and 10,000 who are trying to I want to give my customer. The choice of De la Renta focused on the comfort take pictures of all of those people who are material and fabrication is very limited. of his professional audience as the totally unrelated to the clothes.” You have to be very creative.” But, she reason for downsizing. But when asked De la Renta added that the typical added, “We’re gonna make it.” if the potential for causing problems show frenzy seems suddenly dated. Bohbot hopes the Reliance business for designers following him on the day’s “I feel [inviting a more targeted will “be as big as [J.C.] Penney’s,” where schedule played into his decision, he audience] is the most Bisou Bisou is sold. “My goal is to make responded, “No question.” Specifically, manageable way and the most FOR MORE [India] huge and big and expand to China.” he and Narciso Rodriguez, showing civilized way,” he said. “Why SCOOPS, SEE On Friday, Bohbot held a fashion have 20 million people with zero WWD.com show during Lakmé India Fashion Week connection to the clothes?” in Mumbai. The 17 models in the show — BRIDGET FOLEY Chris Hemsworth in included Priyanka Chopra, the highest-paid the film “Rush.” Bollywood actress and a former Miss FERRAGAMO FLICK: Salvatore Ferragamo will World, who walked the runway in an sponsor the worldwide preview of “Rush,” it was extremely exciting to be asked by outfit Bohbot designed for her. Ron Howard’s action biopic on the rivalry Ron Howard to help design wardrobes for “I’m enjoying all the spirituality of between Formula One champions Niki ‘Rush,’” said Giannini. “It is hard to think India,” said Bohbot, an avid yogini, Lauda and James Hunt, to be held Monday of a more glamorous profession than being who took five of well-known senior in London. An after party at the One a racing driver in the Seventies. James practitioner Birjoo Mehta’s yoga classes Marylebone venue is expected to draw Hunt’s style is full of animal sensuality, and did Ayurveda. — SHARON EDELSON Howard, the cast and around 1,200 guests. Massimiliano Giornetti, Ferragamo’s creative director, designed outfits for David Brühl, who plays Lauda, and for Alexandra Maria Lara, in the role of Marlene Knaus, wife of the three-time Formula One champion. Oscar de la Renta “I created Niki Lauda’s character’s wardrobe for the film with his most PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY Ackman Selling Penney’s Stake small space {Continued from page one} losses tallied $934 million in the first half. management to make changes. He’s Ackman saw Ullman as an interim made millions investing in companies chief and believed the board was drag- such as mall operator General Growth ging its feet when it came to finding a Properties Inc., The Procter & Gamble successor. He also had concerns about Co., McDonald’s Corp. and Canadian the company’s capital investment plans, Pacific Railway Ltd. cost control, inventory management and The investor charged on the scene at business planning processes. Penney’s in 2010 as a staunch critic of The frustrations boiled over into a ceo Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd. He and public battle with the board, and once his partner in the investment, Vornado Ackman said his piece earlier this Realty Trust chairman Steven Roth, month, he stepped down. used their clout to gain access to the “While there is substantial upside if company’s board and, along with the J.C. Penney’s business turns, there con- other board members, replaced Ullman tinues to be risk at J.C. Penney,” Ackman with Apple retail wiz Ron Johnson. At wrote last week. “That risk has been the time, Ackman and Roth controlled a somewhat ameliorated by the addition- combined 26 percent of Penney’s shares. al liquidity the company has obtained Big Johnson, backed both publicly and through the financing and the renewed privately by Ackman, tried to reinvent focus the company will have on manag- the staid department store as a series of ing cash and costs while it works to bring shops-in-shop with no price promotions. back traffic and sales.” But the high-profile effort was marred by Penney’s is seen as having access Business a lack of planning and a series of errors to enough cash to operate for the time that led to a loss of $1 billion on a 25 per- being, and by the holiday season it will cent drop in sales last year. be selling goods that are reflective of its As Penney’s losses grew, Roth began new positioning under Ullman. backing out of the retailer, selling 10 mil- “If J.C. Penney is able to return sales to WWD Marketplace is the premier destination lion of his 23.4 million shares for $16.03 the levels of recent years, generate histor- each, a sharp loss considering the stock ical levels of gross margins and maintain for the industry’s classified and career listings. was trading at nearly $28 just before the the [selling, general and administrative stake was revealed. Roth continues to expense] reductions achieved by prior own 6.1 percent of Penney’s and remains management, the stock should rise sub- on its board, although Ackman’s move stantially from current levels,” Ackman Monday raises questions over whether said. “We believe these objectives are Roth will stay the course. achievable, but how much time they will 800.423.3314 Ullman was brought back on board this take is more difficult to determine.” year to right the ship, and Ackman helped Ackman, for one, isn’t willing to stick the retailer secure $2.25 billion in financ- around and see how long it takes. Shares wwd.com/marketplace ing. But the company’s long-awaited make- of the company slipped 2.9 percent to over of its home business flopped, and $12.97 in after-hours trading Monday. 12 WWD TUESDAY, AUGUST 27, 2013 WWD.COM Nordstrom Bringing Topshop to More Doors

{Continued from page one} bly via shops-in-shop. Nordstrom would He also said Topshop has had a spill- have an edge over Macy’s in any talks, A fashion look from over effect. “It helps the beauty business, considering it already sells Topshop. Topshop. the shoe business and the accessory busi- Nordstrom also sells , a plus-size ness. It’s also happening online. The traffic collection owned by Arcadia. The distri- we get on Topshop is right up at the very bution on Evans is widening slightly to top. We can measure which brands get the nine Nordstrom doors, from six initially. most traffic.” Arcadia’s interest in broadening its The $12 billion Nordstrom Inc., which U.S. distribution is no secret. In June, operates 117 full-price stores and 127 the company staged its first U.S. “group Nordstrom Rack outlets, wants to be iden- preview” of its , Evans, tified with younger, hipper fashion and and brands at distance itself from a perception of being the Bryant Park Hotel in Manhattan. too traditional and not trendy enough. Last December, when Sir , Nordstrom long struggled with its wom- the owner of Arcadia, sold a 25 percent en’s business, though the business took a stake in Topshop and Topman to Leonard turn for the better in the fourth quarter of Green & Partners, he said he aims to 2012, in part due to Topshop. Nordstrom generate $1 billion in revenues from also remerchandised its Savvy areas, Topshop and Topman in the U.S. in “the which Topshop sits next to, and some medium term” and double the brands’ brands, such as Joie and Marc by Marc worldwide sales over the next three to Jacobs, were relocated to other parts of four years. The deal valued Topshop and the women’s floor. In addition, Nordstrom Topman at more than $3 billion. enhanced its Fashion Rewards program Nordstrom continues to be in a learn- to simplify and juice up the benefits. ing phase with Topshop. Asked about When the partnership with Topshop the lessons learned so far, Nordstrom was revealed a year ago, “in every article replied, “A lot of it is just simple logis- that we read, it was always the fashion- tics of getting the product here. Topshop able trendy Topshop partnering with the is not really set up as a wholesaler. We conservative Nordstrom,” said Nordstrom, had to do some interesting manual work- candidly. “That’s our reputation — we have arounds. Actually, doing it is compli- to own that, but we want to be relevant, cated. They have got quite a breadth of current and modern. We’ve got to do things styles and we’re not giving them 15,000 to keep us on the forefront.” feet. We’ve got to edit to something that Asked if his company has any other will work best and allow them to show similar, exclusive brand deals pending, off. We found that when they can really Nordstrom said, “Not yet,” though that display their newest fashion-forward doesn’t mean it couldn’t happen in the fu- ideas, that resonates really well, much ture, he added. “The bar is high. It’s got better than core basics. We had to be to be something supercompelling, a kind super humble, and say to them, ‘What do of a unique idea. We have other [brands] you think?’ rather than pigeonhole. They that are interested,” and want to be show- are good, talented merchants. We have cased, he added. “We are willing to listen learned a lot. but we will be extremely selective.” “We do edit [the collection] but they One possibility is with Miss Selfridge, are largely involved in the selection and which like Topshop, is part of the portfo- then there are all the issues of allocation lio of brands owned by Britain’s Arcadia and sizes and quantities. It’s a very col- Group. “There are no current plans to laborative buying situation, maybe more sell Miss Selfridge,” said a Nordstrom so than anything else we do.” spokeswoman. After introducing Topman, Nordstrom Arcadia was said to be in talks with quickly discovered suiting was a classi- Nordstrom, as well as Macy’s Inc., re- fication that could sell in a greater num- garding selling Miss Selfridge to those ber of stores so the distribution is being ally comfortably against our new Savvy stores. Sources have said either retailer expanded. Dresses has been strong cat- departments,” which Nordstrom said could start selling the label soon, possi- egory, too, and there has been “strong share a similar customer profile and sim- growth” in knitwear. Nordstrom carries ilar style aesthetics. “Just the whole vibe Nordstrom Topshop and Topman products in 1,150- of what’s happening is complementary.” is rolling to 2,500-square-foot settings. Hudson’s Nordstrom is the only U.S. retailer to out Topshop Bay in Canada has the Topshop exclusive sell the British fashion brands’ merchan- to more in that country, and really blows out the dise in-store and online, though Topshop locations. brand in settings that range anywhere and Topman have stores in New York, from 7,000 to 40,000 square feet per door. , and Los Angeles, and Nordstrom said he visited Topshop at their own U.S.-designated Web sites. Hudson’s Bay stores in Vancouver and Topshop and Topman merchandise Calgary. “They’ve got the ability to give will be available in key markets such them more space because they have more as , Houston, Minneapolis, San space,” and he acknowledged HB’s pre- Diego, Washington D.C., Southern and sentation is impressive due to the scale. Northern California, South Florida, Asked if Nordstrom could also as well as new downtown locations in sell Topshop at its upcoming stores Chicago and Seattle. in Canada, Nordstrom said, “At this Topshop at Nordstrom in Dadeland Mall. Nordstrom locations selling Topshop point, no. It’s not going to be part of include Ala Moana, Honolulu; The our Canadian offer at this point.” Americana at Brand in Glendale, Calif.; Nordstrom’s first store in Canada will would it be like if we had a 5,000-square- the Aventura, Dadeland and Town Center open in fall 2014 in Chinook Centre foot shop. We don’t know. I want to know at Boca Raton malls in Florida; Bellevue in Calgary. Eight to 10 are planned in- what too far is. Maybe we should really Square in Bellevue, Wash.; the down- cluding openings in Ottawa’s Rideau distort it to see how far to go.” town Seattle flagship; Garden State Plaza Centre and Vancouver’s Pacific Centre Nordstrom also said that he believes in Paramus, N.J.; Mall of America in in 2015, followed by Toronto launches in Topshop women’s “works kind of every- Bloomington, Minn.; Michigan Avenue, 2016 at Sherway Gardens and Yorkdale where,” meaning just about anywhere Chicago; NorthPark Center, Dallas; Phipps Shopping Centre. Nordstrom has a store. “Men’s is a little Plaza in Atlanta; King of Prussia, Pa.; San Asked what the refreshed Topshop more specific. Big urban locations work Francisco Centre; Short Hills, N.J., and format is like, Nordstrom replied, “It is best,” though the suiting part fills a niche South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, Calif.; just improving it. They obviously have almost everywhere, Nordstrom added. Topman locations at Nordstrom include the desire to have the full-blown brand. In some stores where Nordstrom does Ala Moana; The Americana at Brand; We are trying to find the middle ground. not have a Topshop space, the brand’s Dadeland Mall in Miami; Garden State We are using a lot of their imagery. They suits are sold. Nordstrom also sells Plaza and Phipps Plaza, among others. have big photos. We will try some of Topshop shoes and beauty products sep- “The first nine months have been a them. They have really impressive mer- arate from its Topshops, in the BP shoe steep learning curve for us all, and it chandising techniques. They are really department and the beauty departments. has been great to work with Pete and good at walls, probably better at walls Sometimes, Nordstrom “double exposes” his team,” said Green. “I am [pleased] then we are....We are definitely going for Topshop products, in the shops-in-shop about this next phase of the partner- it,” and spending more. and in other areas. ship between Nordstrom and Topshop “We are trying a few shops a little big- “The beauty of having 117 stores is and Topman. I always believed that ger than we had, in the 1,500-square-foot that we can test” different products and Nordstrom’s multichannel presence was range and more in the 2,500-square-foot shop configurations. “The fact that these the decisive factor in partnering with range. We are still in that phase of what [shops] are not walled-in means it fits re- them in the USA.”