The Inside: Milan’s Favorite Shows Pg. 13 GIORGIO ARMANI TO DRESS TOMKAT’S WEDDING/2 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • October 19, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Shirt Enough MILAN — Designers are fl irting with classic shapes this season, including that great staple, the shirt. Here, Tomas Maier uses a haberdashery style for an appealing top and skirt for Bottega Veneta, replete with a matching tie and coordinating belt and bag. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

The Midterm Elections: Industry Mulls Impact Of Possible Power Shift By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — There’s a lot at stake for the fashion industry in the upcoming Congressional midterm elections and the outcome could dictate how companies operate. The entire House and a third of the Senate are up for grabs on Nov. 7. Democrats are out to regain control of Congress while Republicans try to hold on. Observers believe at a minimum the Republican majority will shrink, which has industry executives and associations reassessing their lobbying strategies and legislative wish lists. If the one- party status quo remains — the GOP See Election, Page 10 PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM Armani Said Dressing TomKat Nuptials WWDTHURSDAY LOS ANGELES — The nup- Sportswear tials of Tom Cruise and Katie Tom Cruise and Holmes appear to be getting Katie Holmes FASHION nearer, and Giorgio Armani is There’s nothing like a crisp or soft shirt to set a pulled-together tone, said to be whipping up the ce- 6 and the look was one of the most appealing in the spring collections. lebrity duo’s wedding wear. According to sources, Armani has designed five GENERAL There’s a lot at stake for the fashion industry in the upcoming congressional outfits for Holmes for vari- ous events taking place on the 1 elections and the outcome could dictate how companies operate. wedding weekend. Ken Pilot resigned as president of Martin + Osa and will be replaced in An Armani spokesper- 2 the interim by Roger Markfi eld, vice chairman of parent American Eagle. son declined to comment Wednesday. A group of 60 Hermès family members fl ew to Venice to celebrate the During Paris Fashion Week, 3 opening of the company’s fi rst wholly owned boutique. Holmes confi rmed she already Higher price tags in women’s clothing drove overall apparel prices up had her wedding dress picked 3 0.6 percent in September, according to the Consumer Price Index. out. She also was spotted in Milan, where Armani has his EYE: If there was ever any doubt that the art and fashion worlds are good headquarters. 4 dance partners, it was put to rest at PaceWildenstein’s Chelsea gallery. The impending nuptials of DISH: Seven For All Mankind has caught the collaboration bug, following Cruise and Holmes are being 8 last year’s pairing with Zac Posen, and teamed with jeweler Evan Yurman. tracked closely by the press, but so far few details have BEAT: A|X Armani Exchange is quickening its international expansion, leaked out. In fact, the celeb- 9 opening stores in Abu Dhabi on Friday and Brazil next month. rity couple has even remained Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 secretive about the time and place of the wedding. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. As for Armani’s involve- [email protected], using the individual’s name. ment, it wouldn’t be the fi rst WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- time the designer has minis- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 82. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- tered to top-secret nuptials. ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- In 2003, he designed the gown ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, and tuxedo for Russell Crowe Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and and Danielle Spencer’s wed- C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; ding in Sydney. David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Cruise and Holmes donned Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Armani at Oprah Winfrey’s Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. Legends Ball in Santa Barbara, 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Calif., in May 2005 and also Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. 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— Marcy Medina FREDERICK M. BROWN/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Pilot Exits as Martin + Osa President SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED By Sharon Edelson Despite the short run at J. Crew, O’Donnell didn’t take issue Pilot was reportedly well compen- with Buchanan’s comments. The en Pilot has resigned as sated, receiving about $4 million women’s apparel not being femi- Kpresident of Martin + Osa, to leave, according to one source. nine enough “is a very accurate the American Eagle Outfitters di- The circumstances of Pilot’s call out,” he said. “[The second In Brief vision launched in September to departure could not be learned. half of fall] shows that that com- ● appeal to 25- to 40-year-old men O’Donnell said he hopes to ment was correct and we’ve cor- SAFILO IN SOUTH KOREA: Eyewear maker Safilo Group said and women. Pilot, who joined name Pilot’s replacement by the rected it now. Our holiday set Wednesday that it has a new subsidiary in South Korea. Safilo American Eagle in Febru ary 2005, beginning of the year. will show that more, and spring Korea Ltd. will be based in Seoul and will be wholly owned by left to pursue other opportunities, “Pilot wasn’t the conceptual will show it even more. We’ll also the Italian firm. The business, which kicks off on Jan. 1, is intend- the company said on Wednesday. force behind the project,” said have more opening price points ed to strengthen Safilo’s presence in Asia, bringing its collections Roger Markfi eld, the former Laurence C. Leeds, chairman like graphic T-shirts for men and to South Korea for brands such as Marc Jacobs, Dior, Gucci, YSL, president of American Eagle of Buckingham Capital Manage- women. I want to get more ap- Alexander McQueen, Giorgio Armani and Boss Hugo Boss. Safilo and currently the company’s vice ment. “He is a wonderful guy and parel in more people’s hands.” also has subsidiaries in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore and chairman, has been named inter- a fi ne executive, but the business As for foot traffi c in Martin Malaysia and has a presence in other Asian countries through im president. Markfi eld, who led will not be particularly adversely + Osa stores, “two of the three distributors in Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, Taiwan and the the creation and development of affected. Let’s face it, this con- stores are doing quite nicely,” Philippines. Through its new South Korean subsidiary, Safilo an- Martin + Osa, joined American cept has had the gestation period O’Donnell said. “One is a little ticipates wholesaling its products to around 300 shops in the first Eagle in 1993. The Martin + Osa of an elephant.” slower than I expected. It’s in a year, reaching sales of more than 100,000 pairs of prescription management team will report to “I wish Ken well and wish new wing of an established shop- frames and sunglasses. Markfi eld. things would have worked out ping center.” The traffi c will in- ● In a telephone interview, Am- differently,” O’Donnell said. crease once consumers become BROWNE DIAMONDS: American jewelry firm Harry Winston erican Eagle’s chief executive “Some people are up for the task aware of the new wing, he said. has tapped Thom Browne, this year’s winner of the Council of offi cer Jim O’Donnell said Pilot’s of a start-up and some aren’t. The On Friday, Martin + Osa will Fashion Designers of America Menswear Designer of the Year departure will have no material team is passionate.” open a store at the San Francisco award, to design a men’s collection of cuff links, jewelry and effect on Martin + Osa’s rollout. O’Donnell musters consider- Center and in early November, a timepieces for spring. “Harry Winston has considered a men’s “Martin + Osa is still in its em- able excitement for Martin + unit will bow in Woodfi eld Mall collection for some time,” Thomas J. O’Neill, chief executive of- bryonic stage,” he said. Osa. “Overall, I like what I see,” in Woodfi eld, Ill. ficer of Harry Winston, said in a statement. “Thom Browne has Before joining Martin + Osa, he said. “The rollout is not going as a unique American sensibility. His meticulous design aesthetic Pilot spent three years at Polo, Retail analysts, however, quickly as I’d like,” O’Donnell will be applied to luxurious pieces reflecting Winston’s heritage which he joined in September weren’t quick to agree. “My guess admitted. “We ran into these lo- and craftsmanship.” In September, Browne announced he will 2003 as president of factory stores is that they’re not off to a great gistical snags with the shopping create for Brooks Bros. a capsule collection for fall 2007 of men’s and retail concept development. start,” said Robert Buchanan, a centers. On Tuesday, we have and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories. One development he was respon- retail analyst at AG Edwards & a real estate meeting and we’ll ● sible for was Rugby. Pilot has an Sons Inc. “The business is still fi nalize the last of the 15 stores MULLER WINS JUDGMENT: Franck Muller USA said last extensive background in specialty salvageable. It’s always diffi cult we’ll open in 2007.” Wednesday that a Manhattan federal court has issued a judg- retail. He spent 13 years at Gap to succeed with a new concept O’Donnell blamed the slow ment stopping Alvea Srl from manufacturing, importing, distrib- Inc. in various merchandising because the odds are heavily rollout on “a number of things uting and selling certain Alvea watches in the U.S. Franck Muller roles on a global basis, including stacked against you. I’ve been that were external. I’m not the USA is the exclusive importer and wholesale distributor of Swiss president of Gap International. in two of the three stores and least bit disappointed. This is luxury watch brand Franck Muller in the U.S., Canada and the He exited Gap in August 2002 to haven’t seen the foot traffi c I’d my fourth start-up, so I know the Caribbean. Alvea is a watchmaker based in Bari, Italy. The judg- try to turn around J. Crew as ceo, like to see at this stage. Also, I bumps.” ment follows a lawsuit filed by Muller against Alvea accusing the but left after just a few months wonder if the women’s product is Shares of American Eagle firm of engaging in trademark infringement and unfair competi- when his former boss at Gap, feminine enough to have a com- closed at $45.37, down 45 cents tion by producing watches that replicated Muller’s designs. Millard Drexler, took his place. pelling appeal to the customer.” in Nasdaq trading. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 3 WWD.COM Hermès: A Celebration in Venice Apparel Prices Higher in Sept., By Luisa Zargani Hermès in Venice. Led by Suits and Separates VENICE — “Well, now you can say Hermès fi- nanced the restoration of a copy,” Patrick Thomas, By Evan Clark chief executive officer of Hermès International, joked Monday at the unveiling of the company’s WASHINGTON — Retailers benefited from some increased pric- first wholly owned boutique here. ing power last month, especially in women’s clothing, which However, the copy Thomas referred to was drove overall apparel prices up a seasonally adjusted 0.6 per- not of a counterfeit Kelly bag, but of a legitimate cent, the largest September boost since 1990. replica of the city’s four bronze horses, symbols Women’s prices rose 1 percent compared with August, pro- of Venice’s power and wealth, which Hermès pelled by suits and separates, which registered a 2.3 percent restored over the past four months in support advance, according to the Labor Department Consumer Price of France’s Committee to Save Venice. The rep- Index released Wednesday. Outerwear prices jumped 3.4 per- licas are positioned on the elaborate facade of cent over the month, while dresses slid 2.1 percent. the Basilica in Piazza San Marco, the city’s main Comparing September with a year earlier, women’s apparel pric- square, while the original 12th-century quadriga es were up 2.9 percent, with suits and separates rising 5.6 percent. from Istanbul were moved inside the church in Retail consolidation, such as Federated Department Stores’ 1982 since they could no longer withstand the out- acquisition of the May Department Store Co., may have con- side pollution. Thomas declined to reveal the cost tributed to the shift, though stores also seem to be holding the of the restoration. pricing line by better control of inventory. Lower inventories A group of 60 Hermès family members fl ew to can mean less discounting to clear excess merchandise, better Venice to celebrate both the end of the restoration profi t margins and higher prices. and the opening of the boutique, inviting global “Retailers really have caught this religion of reducing risk by press and about 700 guests to a dinner at the city’s reducing inventory,” said Eric Beder, analyst and senior vice presi-

Palazzo Ducale to mark the events. SAKIS LALASPHOTOS BY dent at Brean Murray, Carret & Co. “Especially if the product is “The family does attend boutique openings as fashion right, you put all that together and you get premium pric- much as possible, but Venice really holds a symbol- centerpiece of a black, bright blue and gold frame, ing. Look at [stores] like Macy’s, they want to raise the fashion level ic value for us,” said Rena Dumas, who designed surrounded by a mosaic, gondolas and other sym- so they can raise the pricing. Look at J.C. Penney, which wants ex- the new boutique in the city’s busy Salizada San bols of the city, the scarf, Hermès à Venise, fea- clusive products so they can generate higher pricing control.” Moisè. In addition to the iconic horse and carriage tures 35 different colors in total, according to Overall U.S. consumer prices declined 0.5 percent, the of the Hermès logo, there are references to Venice Pascale Mussard, head of design for leather goods, steepest drop since last November, refl ecting lower energy and its horses, its historic regattas and carnivals jewelry and accessories. “We’ve already sold most costs, after a 0.2 percent increase in August. throughout the company’s history — including the of them,” said Francesca di Carrobio, chief execu- “Falling gasoline prices allow real wages to rise and consum- 1957 handbag named Venise, the 1961 window dis- tive of Hermès Italia. ers desperately needed some relief,” said Charles McMillion, play to launch the Calèche scent inspired by the In moving the boutique from the original Piazza president and chief economist at MBG Information Services. city’s carnival and the 1970 Venise silk scarf. San Marco location, the fl oor area has doubled to “There are two areas where the relief is most important — This year, Hermès reedited a 2001 scarf dedi- 1,944 square feet. Perfumes, scarves and other ac- one is they needed their wages to rise and that happened in cated to Venice, which will be available in 100 cessories are available on the ground fl oor, while September and if gas prices stay down, it may continue to hap- units and only at the new boutique, retailing at the saddlery division, leather goods, jewelry, pen, at least modestly.” 250 euros, or $312.75. With its four horses as the watches, homeware and the men’s and women’s Excluding the volatile food and energy sectors, the so-called ready-to-wear collections are core CPI inched up 0.2 percent. Year-over-year, core prices on the upper level. were up 2.9 percent last month, though economists generally The replica horses paid “We wanted a homey feel- expect a slowing economy to keep infl ation in check. for by Hermès. ing — it’s like a jewel box,” “I’m more worried about a recession right now than infl a- said Thomas, adding each tion,” said David Wyss, chief economist at Standard & Poor’s. new boutique is a “new gen- “If everything goes OK, it’s not a problem. But there are a lot of eration” store. “We’ve recently things that can go wrong.” opened boutiques in Athens, Oil prices, the strength of the dollar, international invest- Copenhagen and Amsterdam ment and geopolitical instability are among the possible pot- and each has a new concept, holes, Wyss said. but they must always fi t and re- For now, the economy seems to have avoided at least one fl ect the architectural structure trouble spot, though. of the city they are in,” he said. “The economy outside the housing market is doing OK, not Hermès counts 21 bou- terrifi c, just OK,” said Paul Nolte, director of investments at tiques in Italy, a total of 43 money management fi rm Hinsdale Associates. “As of yet, we directly owned boutiques have not seen the expected spillover of the weakening housing and 249 stores in the world. A market to other parts of the economy. That may yet happen, but store in Seoul is scheduled to as of yet it hasn’t.” open early next month.

LOAFING AROUND: If there’s Lucy Liu in ever a place for a party on a Derek Lam drizzly day, it’s Tod’s: home for Tod’s. Fashion Scoops of rain-ready rubber-soled, patent leather loafers and pumps. Of course, many of the guests at the company’s tea on Tuesday afternoon eschewed such practicalities and instead arrived wearing sky-high stilettos, but when is fashion about function? Lucy Liu hosted the affair with Derek Lam to introduce the new limited-edition bag she designed for the Italian fashion house. “I think the metallic is a great neutral for fall and winter,” said Liu, whose pet charity, UNICEF, was the benefactor of a portion of the sales. But don’t expect the actress to jump on the celeb-designer bandwagon anytime soon. “They have Derek for that,” she laughed. Liu’s friend Sheryl Crow, fresh off her tour and in town for a number of benefi ts, was busy admiring the actress’ newly bobbed hair. “She’s adorable,” she said of Liu. “She looks like she’s 12.” Meanwhile, Amanda Brooks, Allison Sarofi m, Rachel Roy and Lauren duPont leisurely sipped freshly brewed vanilla bean tea while Fabiola Beracasa lamented these afternoon jaunts about town. “I came straight from the offi ce,” she said. “I need a van behind me with hair and makeup to get to all these things.”

STROLLER STYLE: Chic moms know that it can never be early enough for a dash of fashion. Just ask Cynthia Rowley. The mother of two has designed a limited-edition stroller with Graco called Be Fruitful. The stroller comes in black with colorful fruit prints. Graco will produce 1,000 strollers at $299.99 each, and 100 percent of sales will benefi t the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation. The stroller will be the star attraction of a party tonight at the W Union Square. “I wanted to call it Fruit of the Womb, but there were copyright issues,” Rowley said.

CAPTURE THE FLAG: The Cinema Society and Zenith Watches might have been hosting a screening of Clint Eastwood’s at-times-graphic war fi lm, “Flags of Our Fathers,” on Monday night, but many of the guests had kids on their minds. Ryan Phillippe, one of the three main leads, who was seeing the movie for the fi rst time with a live audience, said of his role, “The hardest part was being away from my kids for a month when we were fi lming in Iceland.” His wife, Reese Witherspoon, declined Ryan Phillippe to speak to reporters to keep the spotlight on her hubby. Guests at the screening at the Tribeca in Prada Grand included Laura Linney, Rosario Dawson, Olivia Wilde and Dana Delaney, who joined movie cast and Reese members Jesse Bradford, Barry Pepper and Joseph Cross. Sarah Jessica Parker, who was there to cheer Witherspoon on one of the movie’s stars, John Benjamin Hickey, explained her absence from the recent spring in Carolina collections succinctly. “I have a child and his priorities topple those of fashion week, if you can Herrera.

LIU PHOTO BY PAVEL ANTONOV; PHILLIPPE BY STEVE EICHNER PHILLIPPE BY ANTONOV; PAVEL LIU PHOTO BY imagine,” she remarked. “But that’s what online is for!” 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM

The scene at PaceWildenstein. Brice Marden and Chuck Close

Donna Visual Feast Karan NEW YORK — Any doubt the art and fashion worlds make perfect dance partners was put to rest Tuesday night at PaceWildenstein’s Chelsea gallery, where creators and designers of every description gathered to fete W magazine’s fi rst art issue. Heavy-duty collectors, including Mike Ovitz and Aby Rosen, toasted the marriage of minds, as did photographers Bruce Weber, Mario Sorrenti, Steven Klein and a leggy bevy of models led by Shalom Harlow, not to mention designers from Lazaro Hernandez to Donna Karan, who is on crutches once again — this time she sprained her ankle. While Chuck Close tooled around the denuded 22nd Street space in a souped-up wheelchair that rose to eye level for cocktail-hour conversation, painter Lisa Yuskavage was introduced to man-about-town David de Rothschild, Narciso Rodriguez chatted Richard with his date Cindy Sherman, and mummies Rachel Feinstein and Prince and Yvonne Force Villareal discussed elementary school politics. Mike Ovitz And as at most events, guests were reluctant to leave the bar. “Honey, they’re pulling us in to dinner,” said temporary New Yorker Jeff Koons Gigi Levangie Grazier to husband Brian (the pair is ensconced in a SoHo apartment). But this was no ordinary soiree — it was a fantastical trip, with Richard Tuttle as pied piper. First up was a screening of a documentary by Chiara Clemente, daughter of Francesco, of the behind-the- scenes action of Tuttle, Sorrenti and dancer Jock Soto collaborating on the W fashion shoot. As the lights went up, ballerinas dressed in Tuttle-designed costumes deposited sculptures- Shalom cum-centerpieces before the artist Harlow in himself took the mike and thanked Chanel. practically everyone in the room while standing in front of the Elise otherworldly set he had created for Crombez and the shoot. More than one name got applause, Francisco but Philip-Lorca diCorcia was so enthusiastic Costa when Angela Westwater got her shout-out that he fell off his chair. Mario Mega-collector Ovitz seemed happy as a clam Sorrenti surrounded by such art world Diane von luminaries. “I’m a big fan of this Furstenberg guy here,” he said, clapping Richard Prince on the back. “I’ve got a bad art habit,” he admitted gleefully. That’s a habit art junky Adam Lindemann knows a thing or two about. As his gallerist wife Amalia Dayan watched, Lindemann couldn’t resist absconding with the Tuttle David de original from his tabletop, noting, “If Rothschild he wants it back, he can call me.” Gigi Levangie Grazer in Alberta Ferretti with her husband, Brian.

Nina Clemente in Zac Posen with her mother, Alba, in Giambattista Richard Tuttle with Valli and sister Chiara in Chanel. the set he designed. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Apply for an American Express® Business Card today to attend this exclusive OPEN SM forum.

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Offer available to legal U.S. residents, 18 years or older who are American Express Business Cardmembers and to those who apply and are approved for an American Express Business Card. Existing Cardmembers’ reservations must be received either online at OPENforumnyc.com or via phone at 1-866-504-OPEN by November 15, 2006. To apply for an American Express Business Card, visit OPENforumnyc.com or phone 1-800-680-OPEN. Applications must be approved by November 1, 2006, and new Cardmembers must make reservations by November 15, 2006. Offer valid while tickets last; limited number of tickets available. Void where prohibited. Limit two tickets per current or approved American Express Business Cardmember. Tickets are available in pairs only. If tickets are available, unique user ID and password will be supplied to you in your confi rmation e-mail. Click on link in e-mail and, once you enter your information, the ticket print page will appear and prompt you to “print your ticket.” Each user name and password can be used for retrieval of ticket(s) only once. Event ticket terms and conditions apply. Event date, location, and seating are determined by sponsor and subject to availability. No alternative event dates, locations, or seating arrangements are available. No responsibility is assumed by sponsor for any canceled, rescheduled, unavailable, or postponed event in whole or in part. ©2006 American Express Company. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006

Louis Vuitton Karl Lagerfeld ▲

A Shirt Thing

There’s nothing like a crisp — or a soft — shirt to set a pulled-together tone. And some of the most appealing looks in the spring collections featured that shape, straightforwardly or in the form of a short dress. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 7 WWD.COM

▲ Sophia Kokosalaki▲ Dolce & Gabbana Hermès

Tao Moschino Comme des Garçons PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, MAURICIO MIRANDA AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE MIRANDA GIANNONI, MAURICIO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM

Emery Awards last December. HMI provides a range Olah Hosts L.A. Show Denim Dish of programs and assistance to people between the ages of 12 and 21 who are lesbian, gay, bisexual and Olah Inc., a U.S. agent for foreign contract manu- transgender. Levi’s has been involved with the orga- facturers and textile and hardware vendors target- nization for fi ve years. Robert Hanson, the new presi- ing denim designers, staged its fi rst Kingpins trade Levi’s New Cadence dent of the company’s North American region, is a show in Los Angeles last week to generate more member of HMI’s board. business with premium jeans fi rms. A new designer will unveil her fi rst Lynford bid more than $17,000 for the chance to New York-based Olah, which has produced fi ve — and likely last — pair of work with Levi’s and develop her own style. shows in Manhattan, invited 90 existing customers Levi’s jeans tonight “We gave her homework,” said Amy Jasmer, direc- and potential clients to check out the fall 2007 offer- at the company’s tor of Levi’s brand presence. “We told her to go out ings from 13 companies, including Japanese textile recently opened and see the denim trends, and then go to one of our mill Kurabo Industries, Argentinean rivet maker store on 14th Street stores and see what we do.” Apholos, Brazilian corduroy vendor Suape Textil in Manhattan. Jasmer said Lynford was well prepared when she and Hong Kong manufacturer Tailor Denim Studio. Victoria Lynford, fl ew to San Francisco to meet with Levi’s global cre- Many were showing their wares in Los Angeles for an office manager ative director Caroline Calvin. While there, Lynford the fi rst time. at the Brooklyn also toured the Levi’s fl agship, Sitting on a crushed velvet sofa in a residential Academy of Music, viewed the Levi’s archives and loft rented for the event, Andrew Olah, who runs placed the winning worked with a design team to the fi rm with partners Michael Morrell and Paul bid on the Levi’s help execute her ideas. Ledgett, said exhibitors showed the same products Designer for a Day “She knew the jean style in New York and Los Angeles. prize during an auc- of our existing jean and But he said the attendees on the East Coast tion at the Hetrick- knew what she wanted to came from large corporations, such as American Martin Institute’s do with it,” Jasmer said. Eagle Outfi tters and Ralph Lauren, and were more The result is the price sensitive, while the ones on the West Coast Cadence — gray, boot- included GoldSign’s Adriano Goldschmied, Bread cut jeans with an altered Denim Co.’s Jason Ferro and the design teams back-pocket styling and from AG Adriano Goldschmied, Guess and Paige vintage details. Only Premium Denim. The Southern California contin- Seven Pairs With Yurman 50 pairs, each retail- gent focused on a luxe market, he said, noting that Seven For All Mankind has caught the collaboration ing for $85, will be sold in Los Angeles, Kurabo’s cloth made in Japan was bug. in Levi’s stores in New preferred over the fabric produced in China that Last year, the premium denim company paired York. All proceeds from cost about half as much and was more popular in with Zac Posen to create a limited-edition line ex- the Cadence will go to New York. clusively for Neiman Marcus. This year, Seven has HMI. Still, amid escalating competition and softening teamed with Evan Yurman, the son of jeweler David The Cadence will be un- demand for denim, exhibitors and attendees em- Yurman, who designs the company’s men’s jewelry veiled as part of a private phasized novelty and added value. Exhibitors said collection. event held in conjunction Levi’s will sell designers liked Supima cotton, compact yarn, two- “We challenged him to come up with three dif- with Out magazine. Levi’s only 50 pairs way stretch denim and natural oxidation for metal ferent stories for us,” said Rick Crane, president of will also donate $1 to HMI of Cadence hardware. sales and merchandising at Seven. for every $1 spent at the jeans. Designers got a chance to fi nd new products and Yurman and Seven spent six months developing store during the two-hour cultivate old relationships. Ferro received swatch- the line, dubbed Evan Yurman for Seven For All event. es of Kurabo’s slub stretch denim that he can sul- Mankind, using two of Seven’s fi ts as a design base. — Ross Tucker fur dye as an alternative to blue denim. Lawrence

According to Crane, Yurman was “adamant” about GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY Fong, who designs women’s denim and knits for AG, the line’s fabric, ultimately opting for an Italian discovered a new knits contractor in Portugal’s A2 denim that Seven doesn’t normally use. J.A.S.A., and Dominique Zarco, Guess’ vice presi- “I was actually kind of surprised he didn’t want dent of global production, met with Sartex, his man- to use our denim,” said Crane. “He had a complete ufacturer from Tunisia. vision of what he wanted to use, so we went out Takashi Mitani, Kurabo’s representative, said the and got that denim to accommodate him, which West Coast makes up 40 percent of the company’s was fun.” business by volume. Given his background in jewelry, Yurman also “It’s a very great opportunity for the West Coast,” paid special attention to smaller details such as riv- he said. “They have the premium zone.” ets, hardware and trim. The line’s three stories are the American, featur- — Khanh T.L. Tran ing an embroidered anchor back-pocket detail; the Day of the Dead, featuring a skull, and Signature, sporting Yurman’s tooth-and-crown logo. Each story will be available in Seven’s Roxanne fi t, a skinny peg-leg style, and a straight-leg style. Each style will William Rast on the Runway be available in white, black and dark blue wash- Singer Justin Timberlake brought sexy back to streetwear es, and will include a metal charm that has both in the first runway show for his denim brand William Seven’s and Yurman’s logos. Rast on Tuesday night with the help of 10 racy dancers “It’s just fun working with really talented peo- on the catwalk and a 75-minute all-star concert at the ple,” said Crane of Seven’s attraction to partnering after party. with well-known designers. “[Evan] is really cre- A fashionably 45 minutes past the scheduled start of the ative and has a great eye for fashion, show at eatery Social Hollywood on Los Angeles’ Sunset with a real modern look for our Strip, Timberlake and his partner Trace Ayala played a jeans.” tape of a mock interview between a journalist and two de- Seven is planning to roll signers explaining what’s sexy. out the Yurman line, unlike For the childhood friends from Tennessee, sexiness had the Posen collaboration, to its a Southern fl air, as seen in the rockabilly and preppy looks top-tier specialty and depart- inspired by the fi lm “The Outsiders.” With the exception ment stores for spring. The line of one pair of jeans that appeared to have been dragged will hit shelves in January and through dirt, washes on the gray, pinstriped, white and wholesales for $110, with an ex- dark blue denim were clean, and the fabric was worn in pected retail of $245. and nicked. — R.T. The strongest looks were from the Specialty Collection comprising Fifties-style dresses and blouses that were Two looks designed specifi cally for the show by Cristy Pitoc, Annie from Evan Psaltiras and Brooke Dulien, who also styled the show and Yurman owns the White Trash Charms jewelry line. for Seven During the after party held next door at Blvd. 3, For All Timberlake rocked the crowd with hits from his two solo Mankind. albums and duets with the Black Eyed Peas’ Will.I.Am, Maroon 5’s Adam Levine, ’NSync bandmate J.C. Chasez Looks and rapper Timbaland. Nearly all the celebrities who from the attended the event have dabbled in fashion themselves, William including Nicky Hilton (Chick by Nicky Hilton), Paris Rast show. Hilton (former Guess girl), Nick Cannon (PNB Nation), Eve (Fetish), Cameron Diaz (former model), Will.I.Am TYLER BOYE PHOTOS BY (I.Am) and Levine, whose father, Fred, owns the Southern California-based M. Fredric specialty store chain. Photographer Mario Testino and stylist Rachel Zoe raised the fashion quotient. Self-professed jeans junkie Diaz was loyal to her beau by wearing William Rast jeans with a gold knit top that contrasted her brunette locks. “I wear them every day,” Diaz said. “I don’t have to, but I do.” — K.T.L.T. and Melissa Magsaysay WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 9 WWD.COM The Beat Jay-Z Gets Contemporary With Bella Roc THERE’S A NEW GIRL IN TOWN AT THE ROC. The company, best known for its Rocawear clothing line owned and operated by Jay-Z, will launch a new brand, Bella Roc, for fall 2007 selling. While Rocawear’s junior collection is targeted to a 16- to 25-year-old, Bella Roc is geared for a customer in the 25- to 45-year-old range. “Jay really wanted to develop a new line to hit a broader customer base,” said Alain Lafontant, vice president of sales for Rocawear juniors and Bella Roc. “And since the company does well with the men’s custom line, Jay said he wanted to do something similar for women.” Although Bella Roc will not be a full line of limited-edition products, the company plans to introduce some limited-edition pieces in each collection. To test the label, the com- Bella Roc’s pany sold three styles in the brand’s tem- test pieces porary store, The Roc Pop Shop, which sold out was open for two weeks through fashion in The A rendering of the new A|X Armani Exchange opening in Rio de Janeiro. week in New York last month. The company Roc Pop made 100 pieces to sell in the store, includ- Shop in ing a crystal-encrusted hoodie (retailing for September. $395), a tank top ($195) and jeans ($500), all of which sold out. A|X Armani Exchange Licensed to Signature Apparel, which also produces the Rocawear junior collection, Bella Roc will be launched as a premium brand, wholesaling from $125 to as much as $4,000. Pushes Global Expansion Rocawear wholesales from $28 to $700. “Price really isn’t much of an issue,” By Julee Greenberg Lafontant said. “Jay wants us to have freedom to be creative with this brand, |X Armani Exchange is picking up the pace when it comes to international ex- to come up with new ideas. This line Apansion. will really stand out.” The company, which operates 105 stores worldwide and has been in business since Design is in the early stages, so 1991, has been pushing its international openings outside the U.S. since 1994. Now, Lafontant said he couldn’t give much of with new stores opening in Abu Dhabi on Friday and Brazil next month, the brand is a read on ion would look like. He did entering new territory. say that the designers are inspired by “When we plan to open in new areas, we are always careful to make sure that Japanese fabrics and would use them the Georgio Armani and Emporio Armani brands are established in those particular in the collection. The designers will areas fi rst,” said Harlan Bratcher, president of A|X Armani Exchange. “And now we pay great attention to details, like are defi nitely in expansion mode, we are even 10 stores ahead of schedule.” crystal embellishments and metallic The company is entering the Middle East for the fi rst time with the opening of the gold stitching on jeans. Eventually, Abu Dhabi store in the Marina Mall. The 2,690-square-foot unit is on the main level of the Bella Roc brand will include a the mall. Twenty-fi ve more locations are planned in the region within the next three full line of sportswear and outer- years. wear and may even expand into Next, the brand will enter South America with the opening of its fi rst two Brazilian other product categories. stores at the Morumbi Mall in São Paolo and the Leblon Mall in Rio de Janeiro. The Lafontant said this line stores cover 3,548 square feet and 3,693 square feet, respectively. will be treated as a sepa- “The Armani Exchange brand represents young, urban and sexy,” Bratcher said. rate entity, with nothing “I really think that these cities represent these things pretty well, not to mention they to remind the customer of are Brazil’s largest cities.” Rocawear. The brand will The São Paolo store, opening on Nov. 24, will be located on the fi rst level in the not even be seen in the same Morumbi Mall. The mall, which is an enclosed shopping center, consists of three lev- stores as Rocawear. Bella Roc els and has a variety of luxury stores, restaurants and a cineplex. is being targeted for high-end The Rio de Janeiro location, opening on Nov. 29, is also on the fi rst level of the specialty stores like Fred Segal Leblon Mall. The shopping center is located in the heart of Rio. and Scoop. Beginning in the spring, Bratcher said the company will open 25 more stores “This is a whole new brand; throughout South America and Mexico. it’s not Rocawear at all,” he said. These openings are part of the joint venture between Giorgio Armani SpA and “We are going to do things we’ve Como Holdings Inc. Armani offi cials said the A|X Armani Exchange business is ex- never been able to do in juniors.” pected to almost double in annual sales volume to $550 million within three years, — J.G. opening 95 stores worldwide. CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY Deesh Serves Up Full Sportswear Line NEW YORK — Stacy Morgenstern started her contemporary T-shirt line, Deesh, The Boy about fi ve years ago, and had a plan to eventually grow the brand beyond tops. Now Meets Girl that vision is becoming a reality. by Deesh Morgenstern, who began her career working as an assistant to Elie Tahari and logo is got design experience at Izod, just signed a deal with the new Jars Design Group still clear LLC here. Jars is a division of Ikeddi Enterprises, a $50 million producer of pri- on various vate label apparel, and was formed in July for licensing purposes. Deesh is its fi rst items. brand. Now, because of its widely recognized boy-and-girl silhouettes logo, the com- pany has changed the name of the brand to Boy Meets Girl by Deesh. Morgenstern said the line will expand to become a full sportswear collection, beginning with the spring collection. “I have always wanted to make this brand a full lifestyle, but I realized that there was just no way, fi nancially, that I could do it on my own,” she said. “Jars has great production facilities that will really allow me to expand creatively.” Deesh has been sold at major retailers such as Macy’s and Bergdorf Goodman. With the relaunch, Morgenstern said she hopes to keep the relationships she has cultivated. “I’ve placed the line in more than 60 specialty stores already, and I am happy with the results,” she said. “The line is so much better than ever.” Based on creating fashionable tops using supersoft fabrics, Boy Meets Girl by Deesh will continue to grow using the same soft fabrics. Morgenstern said she will use soft cottons, linens and Modals to add leggings, dresses, skirts and pants to the collection. With her own showroom at 231 West 39th Street here, Morgenstern said the company will grow beyond sportswear, eventually launching products in categories such as legwear, sleepwear and lingerie. Her goal is to reach $5 million within the fi rst year of the relaunch, with an additional $1 million in sales from the revamped Web site, deeshdesigns. com. The sportswear wholesales from $22 to $80. “Now that we have the infrastructure to grow, the possibilities are endless,” she said. “There is so much I want to do.” The brand is expanding into sportswear and dresses. — J.G. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM Election ’06: Industry Braces for Political Shift Continued from page one ine that a Democratic government would be [supportive] of the industry’s” issues. controlling the White House and both chambers of Congress — there will still be chal- Kelly said a potential change in the House Ways & Means Committee, from Rep. lenges after the elections. Bill Thomas (R., Calif.), a “strong free trader,” to Rep. Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.), who The top national issues this election year — the war in Iraq, the war on terrorism, is more “skeptical of free trade agreements,” would be problematic for retailers and the economy and ethics scandals — will weigh heavily on voters’ minds and shape the the trade agenda as a whole. election results. Rangel is supportive of some trade-expanding measures, as in a bill he introduced If Democrats regain the majority or make inroads in the House or Senate, priori- this year that provides an extension of apparel and textile trade benefi ts for sub- ties will change for both parties. That will have an impact on the industry’s key legis- Saharan African countries, Haiti and the four Andean nations. lative issues, which broadly include trade, tax and health care policies, port security, Kelly said Democrats might also make a push for changing homeland security poli- customs and border patrol issues, immigration and the minimum wage. Should the cies and resurrect attempts to pass legislation that would require 100 percent screen- GOP lose control of either chamber, the Bush administration would fi nd it tough to ing of all cargo containers coming into the U.S., an issue retail lobbying groups spent move its domestic and foreign policy agendas and lose control of key committees. (See an enormous amount of time and money fi ghting against in a comprehensive port related story, this page.) security bill that Congress passed just prior to adjourning to campaign. House Democratic Leader Nancy Pelosi (Calif.), a likely Speaker if Democrats The political dynamic would change the most on Ways & Means because Thomas take control of the House next year, laid out the Democrats’ priorities in a speech at is retiring, said Stephen Lamar, senior vice president of the American Apparel & Georgetown University on Oct. 5. Footwear Association. Pelosi pledged to raise the minimum wage and “repeal current tax incentives that “Under any of the [post-election] scenarios, there will defi nitely be leadership serve to export American jobs overseas.” She also promised to cut taxes to spur eco- changes and at a minimum we know there will be a new chair of Ways and Means,” nomic growth, help businesses become more competitive and keep tax rates low for said Lamar, adding it was diffi cult to gauge how trade issues and legislation would the middle class. be affected if Democrats take control of one or both chambers. “This is our recipe for jobs and growth, making our country more competitive, our “You’ve got some Democrats that are very eager to see the trade agenda move economy fairer, college more affordable, health care more accessible, our tax code forward and other Democrats who want to see it move forward but want to put a more equitable, all achieved with fi scal discipline,” said Pelosi. different stamp on it, and still others who don’t want to see any trade agenda move Academics and political forward,” said Lamar. “We’re experts predict Democrats not sure yet how Democratic won’t have the muscle to ef- leaders in the House would fect major policy changes manage those divisions.” even if they wrest control The U.S. textile industry because they won’t have the is unsure what a Democratic- votes to override a presiden- controlled House or Senate tial veto. But they will con- would mean. trol the agenda, which will “I’m not sure there would create more legislative log- be a dramatic shift in some jams on Capitol Hill for the of the individual trade issues next two years. because there are Democrats “Either side in the major- [most notably Rangel] who ity will have a diffi cult time are pushing for certain building coalitions” on such items such as liberalizing narrow margins “because the [preferential trade] arrange- other side will go out of its ments with Haiti or liberal- House Speaker Dennis Hastert has been under fi re; Rep. Nancy Pelosi (D., Calif.) could be the next Speaker; Sen. Mitch way to not be helpful,” said izing arrangements with sub- McConnell (R., Ky.) is in line to be Majority Leader but Sen. Harry Reid (D., Nev.) could take the post if Democrats win. Eric Heberlig, associate pro- Saharan African countries,” fessor of political science at which textile producers op- the University of North Carolina at Charlotte. “Getting the President to sign anything pose, said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade will be an even bigger challenge. Business organizations aren’t going to have as easy Action Coalition. a time as they’ve had in the past 10 years in getting their priorities considered.” A shift in power would also further dampen the prospects of renewal of presiden- Retailers, who are largely supportive of Republicans on Capitol Hill because they tial trade promotion authority, which requires Congress to vote up or down on trade have similar views on economics, business and trade policies, are evaluating a shift bills without amendment. It expires at the end of June and Congress must renew it. in their lobbying strategies should Democrats prevail. “If Democrats take control of the House, they are going to be less inclined to give “If Republicans maintain control, we will try to pick up where we left of in our President Bush that tool in his closet for the next two years,” said Tantillo. “I think priority areas and we will look for opportunities to continue advancing issues such as the probability of passing [TPA] will decrease fairly signifi cantly and that will impact tax depreciation for retail properties, reform of the estate tax, free trade agreements trade policy in a number of ways,” including hurting the chances of a successful out- and a more rational role for government in all aspects interacting with businesses,” come to the stalled round of global trade talks, as well as any future trade agreements said Rob Green, vice president of government and political affairs at the National the administration sends to the Hill. Retail Federation. “It would give us the chance to hit the ground running as opposed Organized labor’s demands will play a big role in shaping the Democrats’ agen- to if there is a majority change in one or both chambers, where we would go from of- da, said Missy Branson, senior vice president at the National Council of Textile fense to defense on some issues.” Organizations. Green said organized labor’s agenda will receive “increased prominence,” adding “They are spending $40 million-plus on this election and if the Democrats win, he expects to see a renewed push for an increase in the minimum wage under Pelosi trade votes will not be at the top of the union’s pay-back agenda,” Branson said. “I

and Rep. George Miller (D, Calif.), who would take over the House committee with think minimum wage and health care reform — making it more accessible to more SVERDLIN/LANDOV UPI PHOTO/EDUARDO BY PELOSI UPI PHOTO/BRIAN KERSEY/LANDOV; BY ; HASTERT jurisdiction, in addition to a push for comprehensive immigration reform, with Rep. people — will be top priorities.” John Conyers (D., Mich.) chairing the Judiciary Committee. Branson said she expects oversight to consume a lot of the Democrats’ time “Overall, I would say the [retail] industry has done pretty well with a Republican and Pelosi has pledged to launch several investigations into the administration’s government — a government that wants to open up trade, wants to allow cargo to move policies. freely, while ensuring the homeland is safe and a government that wants people to “We have a very good working relationship with Democrats, especially on the have more money in their own pockets for spending, savings and investment,” said House side,” said Branson. “It will be a little more challenging on the Senate side Paul Kelly, senior vice president and chief lobbyist for the Retail Industry Leaders because there aren’t any Democratic senators in the Southeast, which is the hub of Association. “Democrats have fought that all the way and at this point it is hard to imag- our manufacturing base.”

The entire House and a third of the Congressional Leadership in Play Senate are up for grabs on Nov. 7. he outcome of the Congressional elections could ● Judiciary Committee chairman: Rep. F. James Tsignifi cantly impact the leadership in the House and Sensenbrenner Jr. Likely Democratic successor: John Conyers Senate, as well as key committee chairs. Here is a look at Jr. (Mich.). Sensenbrenner is term-limited and will step down how the posts would likely change if Democrats take control at the end of the session. His likely Republican successors or if Republicans maintain majorities but need to replace are Reps. Howard Coble (N.C.) and Lamar Smith (Tex.). chairs who are retiring or have reached their term limits. ● Ways and Means Committee chairman: Rep. Bill Thomas (Calif.) Likely Democratic successor: Rep. Charles House Leadership and key committees: Rangel (N.Y.). Thomas is retiring at the end of the session. ● Speaker of the House: Rep. J. Dennis Hastert (Ill.). His likely Republican successors include Reps. Clay Shaw Likely Democratic Speaker: Nancy Pelosi (Calif.) (Fla.) and Jim McCrery (La.). ● Majority Leader: Rep. John Boehner (Ohio) Boehner. ● Homeland Security Committee chairman: Rep. Peter Likely Democratic successor: Rep. Steny Hoyer (Md.) or King (N.Y.). Likely Democratic successor: Rep. Bennie Rep. John Murtha (Pa.). Thompson (Miss.). ● Education & Workforce chairman: Rep. Howard “Buck” Baucus (Mont.). McKeon, (Calif.). Likely Democratic successor: Rep. George Senate Leadership and key committees: ● Health, Education, Labor & Pension Committee Miller (Calif.). ● Majority Leader: Sen. Bill Frist (Tenn.). Likely chairman: Sen. Michael Enzi (Wyo.). Likely Democratic ● Financial Services Committee chairman: Rep. Democratic successor: Sen. Harry Reid (Nev.). Frist is successor: Sen. Edward Kennedy (Mass.). Michael Oxley (Ohio). Likely Democratic successor: Rep. leaving his Senate seat at the end of the session to possibly ● Judiciary Committee chairman: Sen. Arlen Specter Barney Frank (Mass.). Oxley is retiring from Congress. gear up for a presidential run in 2008. His likely Republican (Pa.). Likely Democratic successor: Sen. Patrick Leahy (Vt.). If Republicans retain control of the House, his likely successor would be Sen. Mitch McConnell (Ky.). ● Banking Committee chairman: Sen. Richard Shelby successors include Reps. Jim Leach (Iowa), Richard Baker ● Senate Finance Committee chairman: Sen. Chuck (Ala.). Likely Democratic successor: Sen. Chris Dodd (La.) or Deborah Pryce (Ohio). Grassley (Iowa). Likely Democratic successor: Sen. Max (Conn.). BUILDING PHOTO BY ALAN SCHEIN/ZEFA/CORBIS; MCCONELL BY DENNIS BRACK/BLOOMBERG NEWS/LANDOV; REID BY REUTERS/MANNIE GARCIA/LANDOV REID BY NEWS/LANDOV; DENNIS BRACK/BLOOMBERG MCCONELL BY ALAN SCHEIN/ZEFA/CORBIS; BUILDING PHOTO BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 11 WWD.COM Perdis Maps Out West Coast Growth Plan

By Rachel Brown In 2007, Perdis predicts North American revenues — including sales at his concept stores, at least 16 Saks LOS ANGELES — No one can accuse Napoleon Perdis Fifth Avenue doors and 50 The Bay doors — will amount of lacking ambition. to $10 million. For the fi scal year ended in June, Perdis In less than two years, the 35-year-old Australian reported Napoleon Perdis Cosmetics racked up $65 mil- makeup artist of Greek descent shepherded his cosmet- lion in Australia and New Zealand, where there are 52 ic products into the U.S. market, surged up north with stand-alone stores. Perdis co-owns the company with a Canadian launch in department store chain The Bay his brother Emmanuel. and is now planting four concept stores in California. In addition to building the retail and wholesale sides And he’s not stopping there: Five more are planned of his fi rm, Perdis hopes to spread some infl uence by for the West Coast next year. training makeup artists. In its fi rst year, about 800 art- “The great thing about the U.S. was that it encour- ist hopefuls will pay anywhere from $900 to $8,000 to aged entrepreneurs,” said Perdis. “Companies like enroll in the new Hollywood makeup academy, Perdis Estée Lauder were started by one woman. It all hap- pro jects. He estimates 3,000 students will attend his fi ve pened in her lifetime. The reality is that everything is Australian campuses this year, and graduates constitute achievable in your lifetime.” about half of the country’s makeup artists. Perdis’ fi rst locations are in Topanga, Century City, Perdis criticized U.S. makeup artist education as San Francisco and Hollywood, where a 4,000-square- inconsistent and said artists in the U.S. often overdo foot flagship cosmetics because their training was developed in the will boast both era of black-and-white movies. His beauty message to retail space and Americans is less is more, especially in the age of high- BEAUTY BEAT a makeup acad- A look inside Napoleon Perdis’ Westfi eld Topanga mall store. defi nition television when heavy makeup cannot be emy. Openings Below: The exterior. concealed. began last month and will continue through January. “Americans use more product on their face with the “The consumer here needs to see you in multiple same result that Australians get with less product,” places so they understand you are a player,” said Perdis said. “My philosophy is if your forehead is good, Perdis. “It is strategic to make sure that the consumer then don’t over makeup your forehead.” can be introduced in different entry points.” Perdis has some groundwork to lay here before Like his energetic personality, the design of Perdis’ Americans adopt his philosophy. Marie Mason, owner of stores, which cost an average of $500,000 each to build, Santa Monica, Calif., store Marie Mason Apothecary and is not subtle. Walls are covered in thick black-and-white a former buyer for Fred Segal, indicated his brand is not stripes; items from Perdis’ personal collection including widely known. She said she’s run across just a “couple of vintage lamps and wool rugs foster a boudoir feel, and makeup artists” and “supersavvy Vogue-reading custom- a large hanging chandelier recalls mid-century style. ers” who recognize the brand. Perdis describes the look as “Dorothy Draper meets That’s not stopped Mason from being convinced European baroque. Perdis is on to something. Her apothecary has become “You get a complete textural experience,” he said. one of the selected stores other than Saks in the U.S. to “The reason why I love Dorothy Draper is because carry cosmetics by Perdis, which mostly retail for $18 it was at a time in America when everything was de- to $50. Mason likens it to a streamlined Nars. “You can signed. She would go from the black-and-white wallpa- buy the line from top to bottom: powder, a brush, a liner, per to the napkin to the menu of services right through a mascara, eye shadows,” she said. “It is a convenient, to the knife and fork.” one-stop thing.” 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM

The new Lululemon Athletica MEMO PAD store in Beverly Hills. RELOADING: Ellegirl is getting a new lease on life — just not in print. Hachette Filipacchi Media shuttered the teen title after the June/July issue to focus on its online offering. Come Monday, the company will relaunch the Web site Ellegirl. com, which now will have video content, daily mobile text alerts and other interactive bells and whistles (such as saving articles to a personalized “favorites” area) that teen girls love. The site also will include original content on fashion, beauty, health and entertainment, but will have virtually no remnants of the old magazine. Target will be an exclusive sponsor of the site and its new mobile and text offerings for the fi rst month. Hachette chief executive offi cer Jack Kliger believes the site in its new form plays to how teen girls use the Internet. “Our experience has taught

us that teens may be grappling with the same TODD WILLIAMSON ROBERT PHOTO BY issues they did 10 years ago, but their support systems are different. When making friends, they JIM SMEAL/BEIMAGES PHOTO BY seem to value common interests over proximity — Jennifer Aniston in Chloé with Robin Wright Penn in Gucci. Lululemon Expansion Plan searching for like-minded friends online for help, as a marketing hook has become an event. “It’s support or fun.” Moreover, the company said there arrived, don’t you think?” asked Robin Wright is a strong community that has already gravitated Penn, who starred in one of the three short fi lms, toward the site — during the time between the which deal with the topic of love. In keeping with Sees 240 Units in 5 Years magazine’s closing and the relaunch, page views the theme, Glamour publisher/movie producer for the old Ellegirl.com had grown from 6.2 million Bill Wackerman persuaded Cartier to become a By Emili Vesilind in May to 10 million in September. presenting sponsor, and the company’s Love Aside from a way to capture teenage girls Collection jewelry had cameos in each of the LOS ANGELES — A healthy dose of Zen just arrived in Beverly online, Ellegirl.com is a way for Hachette to keep shorts. In addition, a pregnant Bryce Dallas Howard, Hills. Canadian yogawear company Lululemon Athletica the brand alive with little cost and a faster road who directed the short “Orchids,” wore Cartier launched a 4,400-square-foot store here last Thursday as part of to profi tability. As well as eliminating paper and diamonds for the evening. a retail strategy that will add 200 U.S. stores and 40 to 45 units mailing costs for a print product, Ellegirl.com will While Howard and her dad, Ron, Sean Penn in Canada to its business over the next five years. be manned by just six full-time staffers, compared and Rita Wilson caused a fl urry of fl ashbulbs, the Based in Vancouver, Lululemon Athletica currently operates with 30 or so at the magazine, and Hachette is paparazzi went wild when Jennifer Aniston, who 38 stores in Canada, two in Japan, one in Melbourne and 10 lo- outsourcing production and maintenance to teen directed Wright in “Room 10,” arrived. “I can’t cations in the U.S., eight of which are on the West Coast — with marketing partner Alloy. As of its last issue, Ellegirl believe I showed up at the same time as Jennifer one store in Boston and one in Chicago. had 386 ad pages through June/July, according Aniston,” said Glamour editor in chief Cindi Robert Meers, chief executive offi cer of the privately owned to Publishers Information Bureau, compared with Leive. “That could not have been worse timing. The company, said in the next year, Lululemon Athletica will bow Teen Vogue’s 486 pages during the same period. photographers were like, ‘Who are you? Can you please six locations in Canada and 30 in the U.S. “on both coasts…then That said, “The Web site will be profi table far get out of the way?’” Aniston revealed that she’s in Chicago and Texas,” he said. sooner than a print magazine would be,” said Marta “defi nitely interested in [directing] more,” adding, “I The Beverly Hills unit, located on high-traffi c Beverly Boule- Wohrle, Hachette’s vice president, director of digital was surprised at how much fun it is.” When asked vard, is the third retail location to open in Southern California, media. —Stephanie D. Smith about the dearth of female directors in Hollywood, she but is almost double the size of the company’s existing stores. said: “Hopefully this will change that.” Lululemon has boutiques in Santa Monica and Santa Barbara. MORE ELLE: Elle Decor has its third executive Wright Penn surmised, “We are too busy rearing Despite its size, Meers said the new store is not a fl agship. editor this year: Mitchell Owens, who worked at our kids — and our husbands.” But she doesn’t “We think that Beverly Hills is a fl agship location, but I would the magazine until 2003, has returned from his plan on staying idle — she’s set to direct a fi lm in say the store is very typical of the stores we’re building during most recent post as senior interior design editor at the third Reel Moments series. — Marcy Medina our expansion,” he said. “Beverly Hills has a marquee address Traditional Home magazine. He is replacing Eileen and reputation. The Southern California woman is very com- Daspin, who was hired in March from The Wall DESIGNING WOMEN: In a time when reality television mitted to fi tness and exercise and stress reduction…and the Street Journal. “I don’t think it was the best fi t is giving just about anyone his 15 minutes of tourist trade that walks Beverly Drive is looking for similar in- for us or for her, but I think she’s a very talented fame, celebrities come from many arenas these novative products.” editor,” said Elle Decor editor in chief Margaret days — there are chefs, clothing designers and Solid-colored yoga pants in Lululemon’s patented tech fab- Russell. “At the end of the day, I’m running a even architects. Now interior designers want ric, Luon (86 percent nylon, 14 percent Lycra), retail for around business, not a sorority, and my job is to create the their turn, and Architectural Digest is out to help $84 and feature a variety of waistbands and lengths. Trend-right strongest staff possible.” them. The magazine has paired four interior sleeveless wrap tops in two-color combinations, such as purple Daspin has not disclosed future plans. She designers with Roberto Coin jewelry to create a and red, retail for $44. Pink logo gym bags sell for $64. The com- succeeded Michael Boodro, who was named editor four-page advertising section in its November pany continually experiments with new textiles. Current fabrics of the LTB Media launch Culture & Travel in issue. Roberto Coin has advertised extensively incorporate organic ingredients such as seaweed and vitamin B. February, less than a year after becoming executive with the magazine in the past and the decorators Lululemon’s healthy-living manifesto translates into its editor at Elle Decor. As to the speculation that the who will grace the pages include Charlotte Moss, stores, which become more eco-friendly with each new unit. recent upsets at LTB Media would send Boodro Victoria Hagan, Kelly Hoppen and Alexa Hampton, said “It’s something we’re really focused on as a company,” said back to safety at his previous home, Russell said, a spokesman. Who knows, maybe Architectural community relations manager Sara Gardiner. “We certainly haven’t had that conversation. But Digest is onto something: Bravo is working on a The Beverly Hills store features energy-effi cient lighting, there’s always a home for Michael Boodro at Elle reality series, “Top Design,” that will show interior eco-friendly paint, reclaimed wood fl ooring and low-fl ow water Decor.” — Irin Carmon designers competing against one another. It will fi xtures. “We hire local companies to try and support the local be hosted by Todd Oldham and feature Margaret economy, but also from a materials [collecting] perspective, we REEL TIME: Glamour’s second Reel Moments series Russell, Elle Decor’s editor in chief, as a judge. A try to keep within a local radius,” said Gardiner. premiered in Hollywood at the Director’s Guild on Bravo spokeswoman said an air date has not been The store has the feel of a new-generation yoga studio, with Monday night, and it was clear that what began determined. — Amy Wicks its uncluttered, loft-like aesthetics. A brick wall frames one side of the space, while the remaining three walls are painted a pale lemon yellow. The company uses local fi tness experts as models for its in-store advertising, and pictures of a local Equinox gym trainer and the owner of a nearby yoga studio grace the walls of Ullman’s Next Move at J.C. Penney: Growth the Beverly Drive store. Meers said the company looks for three elements when J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. IS MOV- growth story will be driven by tomer at 12 times a year, versus scouting retail locations: heavy foot traffi c, close proximity to ing from a turnaround story to sales, square footage and earn- Penney’s customer’s four visits gyms and yoga studios and whether spaces are in lifestyle cen- one of growth. ings-per-share growth over the annually. Additionally, the ana- ters — open-air mall environments, because, said Meers, “Our That was the conclusion by long term. She noted that cycle lyst pointed out that Sephora is marketing is based on being involved in the community, as op- Citigroup Global Markets ana- time reduction and better in- expected to bring a new custom- posed to using TV and print advertising. Beverly Drive is not a lyst Deborah Weinswig following ventory flow should drive a er to the retailer. lifestyle center, but that’s usually where we want to be.” the company’s hosting of a “fi re- near- and long-term decrease in Weinswig has a 12-month The company also operates a small wholesale business, “still side chat” with Penney’s chair- working capital and improve in- target price of $81 a share for in its infancy,” said Meers, which sells to spas, resorts, yoga stu- man and chief executive offi cer, ventory turns. Penney’s, which is 15 times the dios and health clubs. Meers declined to discuss sales fi gures Myron “Mike” Ullman, Tuesday Another plus is the Penney’s- target multiple of her fi rm’s 2007 for the company. at the International Council Sephora initiative, which EPS estimate of $5.39. Entrepreneur Chip Wilson founded Lululemon Athletica in of Shopping Centers Research Weinswig wrote was “off to a “Our earnings estimate re- 1998, soon after selling his former company, Westbeach Sports Conference in Houston. good start.” fl ects our favorable outlook on (which has been credited with bringing surf, skate and snow- According to Ullman, the The analyst noted the ven- the department stores, given re- board apparel to Canada) to Morrow Snowboards in Salem, Ore. retailer’s marketing message is ture should drive sales in fash- cent sales and margin trends, and Meers, a former ceo for Reebok in the mid-Nineties, started “going to be more brand-focused,” ion jewelry, intimate apparel, our expectations for continued at Lululemon in December 2005, when the company brought on the analyst wrote in her report. handbags and footwear due to and sustained operating margin two private investors, Advent International and Highland Corp. Last year, J.C. Penney’s marketing increased shopper frequency. improvement going forward,” she The two entities own 48 percent of the business, while Wilson was mainly price-focused. She pegged the number of vis- explained in her research note. — now chairman — maintains a controlling 52 percent. Weinswig wrote that the its by the average Sephora cus- — Vicki M. Young PRADA, VERSACE, VENETA, FENDI, MISSONI, BLUMARINE, ETRO PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; BURBERRY PRORSUM, MARNI, ARMANI, CAVALLI BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; GUCCI BY DAVE YODER; FERRETTI, MOSCHINO, DELL’ACQUA, FERRE BY MAURICIO MIRANDA; PUCCI, SANDER, DSQUARED, MAX MARA BY DAVIDE MAESTRI SOURCE: STYLE.COM;THEWEBSITEHASAMONTHLY READERSHIPOFMORETHAN1.3MILLION; DOLCE&GABBANA’S 2007COLL AND D&G’SSPRING The Dressing Milan 10 Style.com pageviewsduringthefi The top20springcollectionsfromMilanbasedonthenumberof 8 6 9 4 7 5 3 2 1 WWD trench with gold buttons. trench withgoldbuttons. overindulging, sendingoutsportypieceslike a beige AstroTurf. Hekept thethemeincheckwithout house thisseason—includingscoreboardsand It wasafootballextravaganzaatRobertoCavalli’s Page views: ROBERTO CAVALLI Daytime’s fl Page views: GIORGIO ARMANI jacketslitupherrunway.warm-up of half-belted dresses,leggings,cocoonskirtsand bit ofspark,shesentoutplentypieces:Bold prints sporty piecesforspring.Thoughtheshowlackeda Consuelo Castiglionewhippedupacollectionof fresh, Page views: MARNI Europeanmajorettes.” chicks andEastern commercial. Thepieceswere“ajoustbetweenspace season, Frida Giannini’scollectionwasanything but PPR. Thebrandidentifi There’s nodoubtGucciisacashcow for itsparent Page views: GUCCI buoyant dresses,andplentyoffi merch,” saidWWD.Hesentoutlinentrenches and collection,“brimmingwithfi charming colors andtoned-downprintsmadeforalight fabrics,pale useofairy Christopher Bailey’s Page views: BURBERRY PRORSUM Eighties-shape frocks cinchedwithwidebelts. showed sweatersborderedwithchains,leathery “looked morewearablethanmostoftherest.” He spacewear noted WWD,thoughKarlLagerfeld’s collectionlackedtheusualFendi“This oomph,” Page views: FENDI pretty frockstolast1,001nights,”saidWWD. draped minidresses—“infact,shesentout enough chiffongownand of lightcolors,sheshowedanivory Ferretti thisseason.Working withabreezypalette The dressesalonemadeforagirlyfestatAlberta Page views: ALBERTA FERRETTI and breezy, “amajorMilantrend,”notedWWD. linens andsilkskepttherestofhisdresses loose pleated, smockedandembroidered.Heplayed with ofjerseydresses,whichwere came intheform Tomas approachtothisseason’sdresstrend Maier’s Page views: VENETA BOTTEGA gown withtheplungingnecklinewasastandout. controlled collectioninyears,”saidWWD. The silver mostbeautifully dresses madefor“GiorgioArmani’s with evening’sEmpiregownandfl green jewel-collared gown looked just as fabulous. green jewel-collaredgownlookedjustas fabulous. waisted dresses,leancoats,sportyshortjacketandthe Versace herselflookincredible,butthecollection’shigh- “terrifi Donatella Versace’s springcollectionwas deemed Page views: VERSACE accessorizing with the occasional utilitarian backpack. accessorizing withtheoccasionalutilitarianbackpack. toyed withleandressesandbeltedblouses,while was toocommercial,orsubdued.Thedesigner factor seemedtobemissing.Perhaps everything Prada’s housethisseason,butthatcertain “wow” It wasabeautiful,wearablecollectioninMiuccia Page views: PRADA rst 12daystheywerepostedonline. c —thebestinMilan,”byWWD.Notonlydid List uid jacketsandruffl 1,130,088 1,190,005 1,263,192 1,395,575 1,961,447 2,290,180 1,569,380 1,734,206 1,899,197 1,645,655 es withthemasses,butthis ed skirts, combined ed skirts,combined lmy knits. oral-patterned oral-patterned rst-class rst-class ECTIONS WERE NOT COVERED BYECTIONS WERENOTCOVERED STYLE.COM 12 20 13 18 14 16 15 19 percent abovelastyear. —CecilyHall Style.com’s top20designersaccountedforover 24millionpageviews—43 runway includedminiskirts,metallicsandplenty of patentaccessories.Inall, and ModSixtiesaregivingthedressmoreofanedge.”Othertrendson moved awayfrom thebody—trapeze,Empireandshiftshapes.TheEighties wereterrifi tor ofNeimanMarcus.“There most importantcategoriesforspring,”saidKen Downing,fashiondirec- dressis...oneofthe things up,too—andinavarietyofstyles,noless.“The sizes dominatedtherunways. Well, guesswhat?Milancontinuedto“dress” If youhappenedtomissNewYork Fashion Week, dressesofallshapesand 17 11 the exaggerationandupfi willhavetotonedown not well-received.“Williamson clunky jewelry, hisminidressesandminiskirts were Revealing wildtropicalcolors,way-too-bigsequinsand Matthew Williamson’s Puccicollectionforspring. Too muchfl Page views: EMILIO PUCCI daring andgraphicprintsofirisescamoufl to knittedtubesandboleros.Sheintroducedsomenew fromballoonskirtswithoversizepockets everything hodgepodge ofideas,itallworked.Sheshowed Though AngelaMissoni’sspringcollectionwasa Page views: MISSONI along withboxyandlongjacketsoverskinnypants. greens andbluescontainedsculptedminiskirts, Jil Sandercollectionforspringwasheavyonyellows, way.”sequined dress,“Itwasadazzlerinevery His Said WWDofRafSimons’shimmerpinkiridescent Page views: JIL SANDER pieces thatstoodouton therunway. skirts, button-downsandlooseblazerswere allsmart Mara showed,thereweresomerealgems.The draped a cardiganoverlaméandgladiatorsandals) that Max Amid theprimalclothingandextremestyling (suchas Page views: MAX MARA dresses andsee-throughcamisoles. combination ofnauticalpieces,thensentout teddy paired withcroppedjacketsandtanks.Heshoweda by wayofshorts—short-shorts,thatis,whichwere Gianfranco Ferré sentouthismessageforspring Page views: GIANFRANCO FERRE few far-fl and kilts.Althoughthesilkdresseswereappealing,“a they mixedawkwardlywithpaisleybaby-dolldresses vests,but andmilitary-style with spaceyadornments Veronica Etro’scosmictakeonspringincludedblazers Page views: ETRO rose, pinkandlavender,” saidWWD. was justasromanticwithabouquetofchiffongownsin that werepairedwithdecoratedcardigans.“Evening spring, alongwithlaceshirtsandbox-pleatedskirts Anna Molinarisentoutplentyofhergirlydressesfor Page views: BLUMARINE lacy tops. purple baby-dolldresses,huge,fl Sixties, rock’n’rollanderoticthemes,sendingout for spring.Heworkedkeyelements,suchasthe “Plenty ofsizzle,”saidWWDAlessandroDell’Acqua Page views: ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA and puffysafarijacketsimpressed. the tailoredcargoshorts,classicAfrican-print dresses — thegiraffe-printedgownseemedtoogimmicky, but season. Butthecrowdreceivedamixedbagofgoods It wasasafari-themeadventureatMoschinothis Page views: MOSCHINO lace-trimmed andnauticalnumbers. especiallythecrispbutton-downs,and modern, for alivelycollection.Thepiecesweredelightfuland sex appealandmoretowardthegirl-next-doormade Dean andDanCaten’sdecisiontomoveawayfrom Page views: DSQUARED ung piecesdonotacollectionmake,”saidWWD. ash andnotenoughsubstancecamefrom 985,439 677,323 766,270 976,293 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER19,2006 1,007,540 1,109,088 642,972 652,829 706,730 803,957 c optionshere:fl nesse,” saidWWD. oating styles that oating stylesthat owered numbers and owered numbersand age. WWD.COM WWD.COM 13 14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM Frieze: Art of the Deal

LONDON — This city is emerging from deep Frieze, “The Orange One,” which is a bed sheet embroidered with thousands of contemporary art works sold, gal- with orange thread that depicts a naked woman on all lons of Champagne consumed — Ruinart was a fa- fours looking over her shoulder at an erect penis. “I vorite with party hosts — and some very happy wouldn’t show this at other fairs,” said Maupin dealers. with a smile. “But the English are eccentric, Since the annual Frieze Art Fair debuted they’re used to provocation — and they’re in 2003, it has not only exploded in popular- not easily shocked.” ity, with hundreds of galleries from around Clearly not: the sheet sold for $37,000 to the world fi ghting to get on the roster of 150 a collector who, perhaps understandably, exhibitors, it has spawned countless events prefers to remain anonymous.

and openings across the British capital. Carole Christensen Lieff, a Los Angeles- OF PHILIPS DE PURY & CO. COURTESY REPRODUCED BY ARTWORKS “The energy in London now is just in- based dealer who comes to London for the credible, and Frieze has been a major fac- annual Christie’s and Sotheby’s art sales tak- tor behind that,” said Simon de Pury, who last ing place this month, said she gets more work Saturday night lifted the veil on the new European done at Frieze than at other fairs. headquarters of his auction house Philips de Pury & Co., “It’s a really intimate way to catch up with other deal- housed in a former post offi ce near Victoria Station. ers, as opposed to Basel, which is so crowded. You’re “London has always been fer- not competing with quite so many tile ground for contemporary art, people,” she said. and England is a very pro-business And given all the big money country right now,” said de Pury, in town for Frieze, events tak- whose auction featuring works by ing place on the edges of the fair artists including Richard Prince, have mushroomed over the years. Damien Hirst and Sarah Lucas gen- This time around, in addition to erated sales of $16 million. the opening of de Pury’s auction Indeed, if this year’s Frieze in the new Victoria space, there week needed a symbol, it was no was the unveiling of the Louise T doubt the giant, blinking gold dollar Blouin Institute, a new arts venue sign by Tim Noble and Sue Webster in northwest London funded by de that was hanging on the wall near Pury’s former companion Louise de Pury’s auctioneers’ podium. The T MacBain; a show of new, collab- Tim Noble and Sue Webster’s “$,” which sold for $348,192. piece, titled “$,” sold for $348,192. orative works by Jake and Dinos Frieze, which ran from Oct. 12 Chapman, Paul McCarthy and During the cocktail party to kick off the show of 17 to 15 under a big tent in Regent’s George Condo; the unveiling of black-and-white works — including portraits of Louise Park, drew gallery owners, muse- Bill Viola, “Eternal Return,” 2000. the David Hockney retrospective Bourgeois, Cindy Sherman, and Jasper Johns — Getty um directors, auction houses, consul- at the National Portrait Gallery, and remembered Seidner taking pictures of her and her sis- tants, collectors, and the curious alike. Tate director Sir an auction of modern and contem- ters for Vanity Fair. “He was already Nicholas Serota, Zaha Hadid, Nadja Swarovski, Alannah porary work at Sotheby’s to raise sick and losing his eyesight. But the Weston, Charles Saatchi, Nigella Lawson, Hedi Slimane, money for the Whitechapel Art precision with which he worked was Kate Moss, Elle Macpherson, and Jamie Oliver were all Gallery in east London. just amazing,” she said. spotted wandering the maze of 152 galleries showing the Pia Getty organized a show of The show’s curator, Misha work of 1,000 artists at the fair. portraits by photographer David Milovanovich, said: “We wanted to The fair drew roughly 63,000 visitors this year, and Seidner at her Knightsbridge home, celebrate David’s life, honor his work sales were expected to easily top last year’s $60 million. while Alannah Weston opened her and expose it to a fi ne art audience. More than half the galleries showing were from conti- house in Chelsea for an exhibition of We’re hoping that the Tate will take nental Europe, Great Britain and Ireland, with the re- a video installation called “United” a look, and that other fi ne art insti- mainder from the U.S., the Middle East and Brazil. by Beth Derbyshire, her old friend tutions in Europe will start showing “It has become the prominent European fair, after from Oxford. his work.” Basel,” said Matthew Carey-Williams, associate direc- “I’m by no means a dealer, but Plenty of which were in and tor at Haunch of Venison London, which was selling I wanted to show her video work around the art fair. “It’s getting like works by Bill Viola, Ian Monroe, Anton Henning and while the whole gang was here in Art Basel Miami around here,” said Keith Tyson. London,” said Weston, whose guests Louise MacBain during the opening “And we’re not just getting the usual suspects pass- included Larry Gagosian, Sadie of her new space. “Frieze brings with ing through — we’re getting new collectors on board Coles, Jay Jopling, Jake Chapman, it so much activity, and an interna- — Europeans, lots of Americans and even some Asian Avery Agnelli, Peter Brandt and tional market.” clients,” said Carey-Williams, adding the gallery sold Christopher Bailey. “What I’m hop- MacBain admitted, however, three-quarters of the works in its booth on the fi rst day. ing is that she gets a chance to show that her favorite work of the week David Maupin, a founder of Lehmann Maupin in New it outside the U.K.” wasn’t sitting under the Frieze York, said the fair offered him the chance to show some Getty, too, wanted to take advan- “Princes William and Harry,” from tent at Regent’s Park, but in Larry of the gallery’s more offbeat works. “Frieze has an edge tage of the week’s buzz to show off September 1999, by Elizabeth Peyton. Gagosian’s London gallery. “It’s Jeff that other fairs don’t have. I’m never concerned about works by her late friend Seidner, Koons’ blue egg — and you’ve abso- editing what I show,” he said. whom she described as “a perfectionist who took hours lutely got to see it.” Maupin pointed to a work by Tracey Emin called of care when he shot a photo.” — Samantha Conti With Branson’s Aid, Blakely Foundation Raises $600,000 By Georgia Lee ATLANTA — Sara Blakely, who founded the Spanx hosiery line in 2000, is expanding into philanthropy with the help of pal and billionaire Richard Branson. She launched Sara Blakely Foundation, which is intended to benefi t women PHOTO BY BEN ROSE PHOTO BY

through programs on education and entrepreneurship, at the “Give a Damn’’ fund- JIM MARKLE PHOTO BY raiser here Saturday night. A $1,100-a-plate dinner at the Ritz-Carlton attracted 200 guests, including Branson, Jane Fonda, CNN’s Nancy Grace and Andre Benjamin, and featured en- tertainment by Jewel. The night culminated with a party across Peachtree Street at the former Macy’s downtown store, which drew about 1,100 people. The entire event raised an estimated $600,000. Blakely got to know Branson after competing on his FOX reality show, “The Rebel Billionaire: Branson’s Quest for the Best” in 2004-2005. Although she didn’t win, Branson gave Blakely $750,000 to start a foundation to benefi t women. The fi rst project, a partnership with Branson’s Virgin Unite organization, benefi ts the Community and Individual Development Association City Campus in Johannesburg, South Africa, which helps send African women to college. Richard Branson, Jewel and Andre 3000 of Outkast. Jane Fonda Blakely has expanded her hosiery line to undergarments and apparel, including Assets, a division sold exclusively at Target. Total revenues are more than $100 mil- on the foundation in the packaging of product somehow, but we haven’t yet fi gured lion. A portion of sales from Spanx and Assets will go to the foundation, and details out how we’ll do it.” are being worked out to involve consumers in the foundation through marketing Branson, who is donating billions of dollars to develop energy sources that do and merchandising materials, said Blakely. not contribute to global warming, said, “A lot of money has come my way, and any- “We’re thinking of an e-mail campaign to ask consumers how they would like to one in a position to pay for one’s lunch and dinner mustn’t just run around compet- be involved,” Blakely said at the party. “We defi nitely want to include information ing for the best yachts.” WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

Patternmaker Receptionist - Admin. Asst. Large Apparel Co. seeks energetic, SALES EXECUTIVE Sr. Patternmaker/Draper hard working individual to handle Fast growing women’s & men’s apparel busy phones and various admin duties. importer, loc. in Midtown Manhattan, High End Luxury Company seeks seeks polished, creative & aggressive highly skilled and experienced pattern Excellent comp. and typing skills a must. Please Fax resume to: 212 921 5341 sales executive. Candidate must be maker/ draper for couture gowns, dresses street smart, well spoken, quick, detail and ready to wear. Minimum 10 yrs of oriented, sophisticated and capable of CLEARANCE SALE couture experience required. 12,000 Printed Flannel Shirts; Ladies’ Receptionist/ working with chain stores. Candidate Please fax or email resume to must have a minimum of 7 yrs experi- Denim Garments, Call or Fax Mitr at: 646.304.5674 or [email protected] Tel: 240- 832-5473 / Fax: 301-572-2092 Customer Service ence and enjoy working in a fast Immediate opening! Apparel co seeks paced, entrepreneurial environment. Prod. Patternmaker hard worker for busy NY showroom. Great compensation package, generous Must be energetic & highly motivated! base salary + commissions. Potential Women’s Designer Sportswear 5+ yrs. Become part of our talented team. Fax candidates may fax cover letter and Skilled in draping, fitting, tech, accuracy resume: 516-621-2251 Attn: Mel or resume to: 212-704-2003 from sample to production prototype. E-mail: [email protected] Fax res. and sal. req to: (212) 768-2358 RETAIL PLANNER/ANALYSTS ALL LEVELS Production Assistant 800-544-5878 China based imptr/agent seeks bilingual [email protected] DIRECTOR OF SALES - DRESSES Mandarin/English Asst. to follow up all of the production process from Tech Packs to Shipping. 3+ yrs of experience Retail Store Manager A.B.S., a leader in contemporary/designer clothing seeks a with garment technical language a must. Min. 3 yrs. women’s fashion forward Midtown Office Sublease dynamic, highly motivated and dedicated individual to join Will generate commercial invoices and boutique mgmt exp. You will need $1800/Month, 350 sq. ft. 5 large windows follow-up payments from customers. strong interpersonal & communication (Great Lighting). Free Local Calls our dress division. Candidate will be responsible for managing Please fax resume and salary abilities, excellent computer skills & & Internet. Available Immediately! a team of sales executives, as well as, direct sales responsibility requirements to: (212) 921-1876 comfort with upscale clientele. Refs Fax: (212) 353-0980 req’d. Kindly e-mail resume & salary for key accounts. Individual must be challenged to open up req’s to: [email protected] new businesses, build existing businesses and re-build and Production Assistant Leading textile Converter seeks a hard Showrooms & Lofts strengthen relationships within the marketplace. Established working, motivated individual with a SKETCH ARTIST BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS converting background and minimum 2 Major apparel company seeks fast Great ’New’ Office Space Avail relationships with Better/Contemporary Department stores years experience; salary based upon exp. paced, detail oriented sketch artist. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 and Specialty retailers a must. Minimum of 3-5 years sales Please Fax resumes to Nick: 212-244-5766 Must be willing to multi task & have knowledge of Illustrator CS2 on PC. experience required. Showroom sublet - 36th & 5th Production Associate Pls fax resumes to: # 212-575-7009 2500 Ft Showroom - Fully Built Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources Int’l Textile Co. seeks highly motivated Tory Burch is looking for a Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 detail oriented person to track goods SLEEPWEAR DESIGNERS Search- www.manhattanoffices.com (213) 891-2812 or email: [email protected] from order placement to delivery. Daily GENERIC AND LICENSED Merchandise Coordinator to E/O/E communication w/ overseas suppliers. 800-544-5878 work in the NY Tri-State Area. Computer literate, good follow-up skills. [email protected] Knowledge of textiles a +. Challenging Merchandise Coord will act as support position in a friendly busy work TECH DESIGNER/ASST. field executive for the brand by environment. Company paid benefits. focusing on training and building DESIGNER/ Please fax resume: 212-245-7615 Growing womenswear company seeks candidate with entry level to 2 yrs. exp. strong relationships within dept for garment specing, fitting, grading, stores. Travel required to stores MERCHANDISER PRODUCTION excel specs, prod’n QC & communication 1359 Broadway ACCESSORIES Great Opportunity! Be part of an exciting, fast paced with factory. Will train organized & within the territory. Ladies importer seeks highly team. Growing sportswear co seeks: motivated person. Knowledge of Excel Candidates should be detail orient- Available Showroom to Share DESIGNER Production Assistant - Entry Level & Patternmaking helpful. Please fax Call Kim: 212-330-7506 Seeking highly motivated, creative, motivated, organized, talented Asst Tech Designer -Entry to 2 yrs exp resume, attn. Patricia @ (212) 354-0490 ed, strong in visual merchandising independent, well organized indi- designer with min 5 yrs exp who Computer literate - Excel and Outlook and possess previous retail mgmt can forecast trends & make com- a must. Good health benefits and 401K or vendor merchandising exp. vidual to handle the development E-mail resume:[email protected] Technical Designer of full accessories line. Must have 5 prehensive presentations to mgmt/ Superior retail and/or customer buyers. Must be familiar with Dresses service exp is req’d. Must possess yrs experience in luxury accessories Production Coordinator Expanding NYC based dress co seeks market/ experience working with CHICOS stores / cust. Travel to Brand & Private Label mfr. & imptr. exp’d Technical Designer. The ideal solid writing, verbal communica- Italian vendors/ technical knowl- Europe/ Asia. Competitive pkg. Re- seeks indiv. w/ min. 5 yrs. exp. Daily candidate will be responsible to prepare tion and comprehensive computer sume to Peter Fax 212-921-1492 communication w/ our China office & tech packages, issue initial size specs, skills, including Word / Excel. edge of materials and hardware factories to track prod’n status, samples, measure garments, garment fittings, development/ great sketching skills/ or E-mail: [email protected] lab dips, fabric & yarn orders. Exp. in issue fit comments & communicate Knowledge of retail math is proficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. working w/ designer’s & technician’s w/overseas factories. Dress exp. in important. spec packs, ordering accessories & daily pattern making, technical sewing knowledge, sketching ability & profi- Send resume: Email resume and sketch sample to: maintenance of control charts. Strong STORE MANAGER / LOGISTICS / communication skills, proficiency in cient in Excel & Word. [email protected] IMPORT/EXPORT/PROD [email protected] FASHION DIRECTOR / SALES & Outlook & Excel req’d. Please e-mail Join a hard working team in a pleasant No phone calls! DESIGN/ PRODUCTION ASSTS resume w/ salary req’s to: work environment. Excellent Benefits , SPECIALIST [email protected] 401K, Competitive Salary. Hong Kong based Production Specialist Growing Cashmere Co. seeks Email Resume to: [email protected] available, with 15 yrs garment import/ dedicated staff. Must be detail Production Coordinator export experience in China. Will set up Bookkeeper/Office Manager branch office in Shanghai/Jingsu to oriented, organized & reliable team Eric Javits Inc. monitor all sample, patternmaking, TRACY FEITH INC. players. Salary commensurate Fast paced better handbag co. located in production, QC, packing/shipping lo- Full charge bookkeeper to maintain with ability. Please e-mail resume LIC seeks person w/ min 3-5yrs exp to gistics. If interested in setting up your books, monthly payables, payroll and support all phases of overseas produc- branch office in Shanghai, please e-mail commissions, wholesale invoicing and to: [email protected] tion. Prod development and sourcing BILLIE NG at: [email protected] retail reconciliation. Knowledge of exp a plus. Key responsibilities incl factoring very important. Must have developing specs, measuring/evaluating an excellent phone manner and be DESIGNER - SENIOR samples, recording of all styling able to become a supportive member GIRLS 7- 16 DENIM BOTTOMS changes and communicating them to INVESTOR of a very hard working team. Five Major Private Label Co seeks talented, factories. Computer proficiency/strong Seeking an Investor w/mfg. capablilities years exp minimum. E-mail resume to highly motivated individual to lead organizational and follow up skills a to form a partnersgip with an emerging [email protected] and direct design team in all phases of must. Email resume w/ salary req to: GREAT SALES OPPTY! women’s clothing line. Call 917-589-2753 product development. Qualified candi- [email protected] Leading mfr of Fashion Missy & Jr BUYER dates must have 7-10 yrs exp. Email woven tops seeks aggressive and resume to: [email protected] PRODUCTION COORD - KNITS -50K motivated Salesperson looking to grow Fast paced buying office seeks hard NEW ENGLAND LOCATION LOU NARDI SEEKING PARTNER working Junior Buyer to shop the and prosper. Must have solid contacts CONTEMPORARY SPORTSWEAR 800-544-5878 & the ability to generate sales. Excel- Established manufacturing company wholesale market. Email resumes to: DIRECTOR OF [email protected] Based out of New York and China. seeks a partner with strong market [email protected] lent potential based on performance. BUSINESS OPERATIONS Come join a Great Team. Fax resume: Independent Reps Wtd. for contacts & marketing skills to launch • Chicago • Seattle • New England • new line. Must have proven, current *** CAD ARTIST *** Mgr. w/ a min. of 10 yrs. exp. sought for PRODUCTION 212-398-0318 or e-mail [email protected] Missy Embroideries & Prints • Metro Area • Florida • solid contacts to generate new business. NY based high-end RTW designer. As Ladies garment importer needs Call 212-921-9100 Fax 212-921-9103 Excellent opportunity for growth. 1-2+ years exp-Illustrator-Photoshop a seasoned General Manager you are detailed oriented production person, Please email resume to: Call (212)643-8090 Fax 643-8127 AGCY responsible for bottom line results by computer literate. Excellent growth Jr./Missy Wovens [email protected] CUSTOMER SERVICE directly managing &/or supporting all opportunity! Dynamic F/T Salesperson wanted for EDI A MUST! business units including design, prod’n, Fax resume: 212-921-8369 Women’s Jr./Updated Missy Import line. 800-544-5878 admin, sales. Reporting to the Pres. you Must have est’d. relationships with Dept. [email protected] will: leverage your live contacts in the & Specialty Chain Stores. Minimum 5 RTW segment in support of overall busi- PRODUCTION MGR Growing contemp co seeks prod mgr years experience. Fax/E-mail resumes to: ness and brand development activities. 212-840-9739 / [email protected] You will possess strong knowledge of w. knowl of entire prod. process, staff REGIONAL REPS financial management principles & have mgmt, prod calendar, oversee all prod Hip, Hot, Bridge Contemporary Mfr. is athoroughunderstanding of in-house details, have knowl of better garmt seeking top-producing commissioned & contractor based prod’n operations. mftg. oversee fittings, issue cut tkts. NICOLE MILLER multi-line Reps with boutique account & Design Assistant Comp prof req’d. Strong import & Looking for Reps nationwide to promote key account experience in the North- Exciting opportunity in design, pro- This is a hands on, active position w/ an unique fashion line of wireless phone average travel req. of 1 week monthly, domest. exp a MUST. Fax resume to east, NY Metro, Midwest, PNW, PSW, CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING duction and merchandising. Must be a 212-594-8539 or email [email protected] cases. Please call: (631) 273-7302 x138 Rocky Mountain, Texas and Southeast. U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 self starter and highly org’d. Knowl- possibly more. NO CONSIDERATION Fax: (516) 908-7668 or Email resume to: WILL BE GIVEN TO CANDIDATES To join our rocking team, E-mail your www.sanodesignworks.com edge of Excel & Tech Pack prepara- [email protected] resume to: [email protected] tions a must! Fax resume:212-941-0114 LACKING CURRENT DESIGNER RTW EXPERIENCE. Strong references, background check, PATTERN/SAMPLES Designer - Freelance & passion for the industry req’d. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast National children’s wear manufacturer Email resume & cover with salary req’s Production Position work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 looking for Freelance designer for to: [email protected] Nanette Lepore seeks detail oriented layette. Must be creative with unique person to write cutting tickets and ideas. Computer design and technical GRAPHIC ARTIST oversee cutting room. Need 2 years knowledge a must. Fast growing children’s wear company experience with domestic cutting PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please e-mail resume to looking for a graphic artist for 7-16/ rooms and strong math skills. Basic PRODUCTIONS [email protected] junior’s (girl’s) size range. Must have at knowl of marking and grading a plus. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. least 3-5 yrs exp. in children’s market, Fax resume to: 212-947-5651 SALES Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Excellent Knowledge of illustrator CS2 birdie, a lifestyle brand - bridging the DESIGNER - JUNIOR TOPS and Photoshop. Ability to design original worlds of golf and fashion, seeks two Growing co. seeks exp’d junior woven prints, embroideries, applique’s etc. enthusiastic salespeople: one NY (area) & knit tops designer. Must be on top of Good sense of color, trend & knowledge based & one Southern California based. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, latest trends. Heavy flat sketching on of garment construction. Detail oriented Requirements include an energetic, PRODUCTIONS Adobe Illustrator to construct product and very organized. Technical ability as entrepreneurial spirit, ability to work packs for overseas office. Able to multi well as creative. Salary based on exp. Production/QC Asst independently, and most of all a desire Full service shop to the trade. task and manage assts. in fast paced Please fax resume to: 212-643-2365 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Nanette Lepore seeks highly motivated to take part in an exciting brand launch. DESIGNER; SR. LEVEL environment. E-mail resume to: indiv. for entry level production/ QC If this is you, we would love Dresses, Sportswear, special occasion, [email protected] Graphic Artist to $60K Current exp in assistant. Need knowl of garment to hear from you! suits. From concept through production. girls Jr. driven. Able to create denim construction & specs as well as com- Please E-mail your resume and salary Import experience India/China contacts. DESIGNER -MEN’S & WOMEN’S tiffs/stripes/print repeats. Strikeoffs. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD ACTIVEWEAR/OUTERWEAR puter skills. Up to 2 yrs fashion/prod requirements to [email protected] Will travel / shop Europe. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Illustrator, Photoshop, MAC. Full-time experience or new fashion/prod college Please go to www.birdie.com Seeking Full-Time employment. 800-544-5878 perm positon. Call 973-564-9236 agcy sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 [email protected] graduate. Fax resume to: 212-947-5651 for more information! Call: 845-496-6750 or 914-261-0397 SPECIAL ISSUE 2006WWDBook of Lists A Matter of Facts. 1 3 7 4 5 82 6 10 9 From the editors of WWD, DNR and FN, the 2006 Book of Lists is the ultimate compilation of facts, rankings and contact information — serving as the definitive resource for the fashion, beauty and retail industries.

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