Shirt Enough MILAN — Designers Are fl Irting with Classic Shapes This Season, Including That Great Staple, the Shirt
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The Inside: Milan’s Favorite Shows Pg. 13 GIORGIO ARMANI TO DRESS TOMKAT’S WEDDING/2 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’THURSDAY Daily Newspaper • October 19, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Shirt Enough MILAN — Designers are fl irting with classic shapes this season, including that great staple, the shirt. Here, Tomas Maier uses a haberdashery style for an appealing top and skirt for Bottega Veneta, replete with a matching tie and coordinating belt and bag. For more, see pages 6 and 7. The Midterm Elections: Industry Mulls Impact Of Possible Power Shift By Kristi Ellis WASHINGTON — There’s a lot at stake for the fashion industry in the upcoming Congressional midterm elections and the outcome could dictate how companies operate. The entire House and a third of the Senate are up for grabs on Nov. 7. Democrats are out to regain control of Congress while Republicans try to hold on. Observers believe at a minimum the Republican majority will shrink, which has industry executives and associations reassessing their lobbying strategies and legislative wish lists. If the one- party status quo remains — the GOP See Election, Page 10 PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 19, 2006 WWD.COM Armani Said Dressing TomKat Nuptials WWDTHURSDAY LOS ANGELES — The nup- Sportswear tials of Tom Cruise and Katie Tom Cruise and Holmes appear to be getting Katie Holmes FASHION nearer, and Giorgio Armani is There’s nothing like a crisp or soft shirt to set a pulled-together tone, said to be whipping up the ce- 6 and the look was one of the most appealing in the spring collections. lebrity duo’s wedding wear. According to sources, Armani has designed five GENERAL There’s a lot at stake for the fashion industry in the upcoming congressional outfits for Holmes for vari- ous events taking place on the 1 elections and the outcome could dictate how companies operate. wedding weekend. Ken Pilot resigned as president of Martin + Osa and will be replaced in An Armani spokesper- 2 the interim by Roger Markfi eld, vice chairman of parent American Eagle. son declined to comment Wednesday. A group of 60 Hermès family members fl ew to Venice to celebrate the During Paris Fashion Week, 3 opening of the company’s fi rst wholly owned boutique. Holmes confi rmed she already Higher price tags in women’s clothing drove overall apparel prices up had her wedding dress picked 3 0.6 percent in September, according to the Consumer Price Index. out. She also was spotted in Milan, where Armani has his EYE: If there was ever any doubt that the art and fashion worlds are good headquarters. 4 dance partners, it was put to rest at PaceWildenstein’s Chelsea gallery. The impending nuptials of DISH: Seven For All Mankind has caught the collaboration bug, following Cruise and Holmes are being 8 last year’s pairing with Zac Posen, and teamed with jeweler Evan Yurman. tracked closely by the press, but so far few details have BEAT: A|X Armani Exchange is quickening its international expansion, leaked out. In fact, the celeb- 9 opening stores in Abu Dhabi on Friday and Brazil next month. rity couple has even remained Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................15 secretive about the time and place of the wedding. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. As for Armani’s involve- [email protected], using the individual’s name. ment, it wouldn’t be the fi rst WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- time the designer has minis- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 192, NO. 82. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- tered to top-secret nuptials. ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- In 2003, he designed the gown ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, and tuxedo for Russell Crowe Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and and Danielle Spencer’s wed- C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; ding in Sydney. David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Cruise and Holmes donned Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Armani at Oprah Winfrey’s Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. Legends Ball in Santa Barbara, 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable Calif., in May 2005 and also Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. 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BROWN/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Pilot Exits as Martin + Osa President SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED By Sharon Edelson Despite the short run at J. Crew, O’Donnell didn’t take issue Pilot was reportedly well compen- with Buchanan’s comments. The en Pilot has resigned as sated, receiving about $4 million women’s apparel not being femi- Kpresident of Martin + Osa, to leave, according to one source. nine enough “is a very accurate the American Eagle Outfitters di- The circumstances of Pilot’s call out,” he said. “[The second In Brief vision launched in September to departure could not be learned. half of fall] shows that that com- ● appeal to 25- to 40-year-old men O’Donnell said he hopes to ment was correct and we’ve cor- SAFILO IN SOUTH KOREA: Eyewear maker Safilo Group said and women. Pilot, who joined name Pilot’s replacement by the rected it now. Our holiday set Wednesday that it has a new subsidiary in South Korea. Safilo American Eagle in Febru ary 2005, beginning of the year. will show that more, and spring Korea Ltd. will be based in Seoul and will be wholly owned by left to pursue other opportunities, “Pilot wasn’t the conceptual will show it even more. We’ll also the Italian firm. The business, which kicks off on Jan. 1, is intend- the company said on Wednesday. force behind the project,” said have more opening price points ed to strengthen Safilo’s presence in Asia, bringing its collections Roger Markfi eld, the former Laurence C. Leeds, chairman like graphic T-shirts for men and to South Korea for brands such as Marc Jacobs, Dior, Gucci, YSL, president of American Eagle of Buckingham Capital Manage- women. I want to get more ap- Alexander McQueen, Giorgio Armani and Boss Hugo Boss. Safilo and currently the company’s vice ment. “He is a wonderful guy and parel in more people’s hands.” also has subsidiaries in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore and chairman, has been named inter- a fi ne executive, but the business As for foot traffi c in Martin Malaysia and has a presence in other Asian countries through im president. Markfi eld, who led will not be particularly adversely + Osa stores, “two of the three distributors in Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, Taiwan and the the creation and development of affected. Let’s face it, this con- stores are doing quite nicely,” Philippines. Through its new South Korean subsidiary, Safilo an- Martin + Osa, joined American cept has had the gestation period O’Donnell said. “One is a little ticipates wholesaling its products to around 300 shops in the first Eagle in 1993.