▲ NEWS:

▲ Ann

FASHION: ▲ RETAIL: Taylor Contemporary ▲ NEWS: taps brands Susan goes design, feel the Sokol bigger in store squeeze, to exit Tokyo, heads, page 9. Vera page 3. Wang, page 3. page 3. WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 16, 2008 • $3.00 Sportswear

Close Encounter ’s Mobile Art mother ship has landed in Central Park. The futuristic, Zaha Hadid-designed pavilion, which houses 18 modern artists’ odes to the iconic Chanel 2.55 handbag, will open to the public on Monday. For more on the installation, see pages 6 and 7.

Bleak House: Retail Shares Dive Again as Outlook Darkens By David Moin and Evan Clark On a day marked by disappointments in which it has issued them, and the Credit jitters have given way to on several fronts, the Commerce weakness recently seen in retail shares holiday dread. Department reported declines in swept over the vendor community, led by The severity of the retail downturn nearly every category of retail sales in a nearly 30 percent drop in the price of was on full display Wednesday, in the September, including department and Jones Apparel Group Inc. shares. Jones process further depressing already specialty stores; the National Retail reduced its earnings estimates for the downtrodden stocks and anemic Federation issued its lowest forecast year after the market closed Tuesday. holiday expectations. for holiday spending in the seven years See More, Page 17 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION 6 and Zaha Hadid’s Space-Age spin ™ on portable structures, Chanel’s Mobile Art pavil- ion, has touched down in Central Park. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL 1 The severity of the retail downturn was on full display Wednesday, depressing depressed stocks THE BOOM BOOM: and anemic holiday expectations. Tapping the Huge Potential of the Individualistic, 44+ Market 3 U.K. fashion chain Topshop is has doubled the size of its Tokyo fl agship and plans to open seven Hillary Clinton. Kathy Bates. Madonna. Sheryl Crow. to-wear, errand-worthy “play wear” knits and denim. more stores in in the next three years. No, this isn’t a game of “One of These is Not Like The ShapeMe™ denim program, in particular, 4 Wholesale prices for U.S.-made women’s and The Other.” In fact, they are all part of the same group: has been very successful for Coldwater Creek, girls’ apparel fell 0.7 percent in September from Baby Boomers. says Sandra Smith-Fitzgerald, senior vice- August and were off 0.1 percent for the year. The challenge of marketing to this group is president of merchandising. 8 BEAT: Contemporary brands are broadening their that Baby Boomers cover such a wide age range “[The customer] loves it,” she says, so much so, price range, editing their lines and enhancing ™ – currently from 44 to 62 years “we have expanded ShapeMe customer service to fi ght the tough times. old – that one size definitely does from denim to include additional not fit all when it comes to their fabric options in pants that address 9 DENIM: Booming sales and a move to offshore apparel needs.Those at the upper a variety of lifestyle needs for our sourcing lifted Joe’s Jeans Inc. to triple-digit end might have grandchildren customer.” earnings gains in the third quarter. and be mulling retirement, while Boomer women shop for clothes 10 LETTERS: Downtown Dallas is being revived, with those at the lower end may very 2.8 times per month for themselves more residents, new eateries, hotels and nightlife, well have preschoolers. and others, Monitor data reveals. and a thriving arts community. Boomers, with $2.1 trillion in Primarily, they shop at chain stores EYE: Taxis and town cars were in high demand ▲ 20 spending power, are a very appealing (25%), followed by mass merchants Tuesday night as the social set shuttled between demographic. About half (49%) of (24%), department stores (17%) no fewer than three major soirees. Boomer women confess they still and specialty stores (9%). Lindsay Price love/enjoy shopping, according Manufacturers and retailers who Classifi ed Advertisements...... 18-19 to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle do not wake up to the wants and Monitor™. Harnessing the dollars needs of the 40+ woman are doing TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS of this particular demographic can themselves a disservice, Brown says. [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. prove tricky. “Who out there understands the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 “There is no one consumer “Who out there understands 40+ female body and what makes FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the 40+ female body and what VOLUME 196, NO. 81. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with profile,” explains Lori Holliday her feel great – while not sacrificing one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and Banks, senior fashion analyst/ makes her feel great – while style?” she asks. “And who offers November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division editor for The Tobe Report. “This not sacrificing style?” this in the high-touch service of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. misconception has sometimes — Mary Brown environment important to the 40+ Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice resulted in singular definitions of JWT BOOM woman? Not as many brands as President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. the Boomer customer, particularly there should be given the spending Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B female Boomers, who have been power of this demographic.” 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA lumped into either the older age bracket or the Brown gives a nod to J.C. Penny, Chico’s and Talbots 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. younger. So a clothing store may skew its silhouettes, for reforming their efforts to offer “undowdy” looks. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed styling and fits either too mature or too young.” Wagner says when Michael Smaldone, Talbots’ chief within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 At Talbots, “it was no secret” that the brand catered creative officer, and his team looked to change things or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the to older Boomers, says Lori Wagner, executive vice- up, they focused on fit. “Clothes don’t have to be boxy World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened president and chief merchandising officer. and cover a woman up,” she says. “Our silhouettes are companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call “We’ve been very successful serving older more refined. Women actually look better if they have 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY segments,” she says, while adding, “At our best, we clothes that fit beautifully,” Wagner says. OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, were absolutely an ageless PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, At 91%, fit and price are PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS brand. We want to span tied as the most important SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND that wide range of 40 to Which statement best describes factor for Boomer OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 75 years old.” yourfeelings about clothes shopping? garment purchases, Mary Brown, a Greatest Total Gen Y Gen X Boomers Gen. according to Monitor partner at JWT BOOM, Love/enjoy data. That number rose to the Boomer-specific shopping (net) 61% 76% 64% 49% 43% 93% among the Greatest DAILY Given where the world marketing firm owned I love to shop 23% 40% 20% 15% 11% Generation consumers, “ by JWT Worldwide, but decreased to 86% I enjoy shopping 39% 36% 43% 35% 31% QUOTE is now, it’s likely to cites forecasts showing among Gen X women. the 50+ consumer will Not my first choice 17% 12% 17% 21% 24% Tobe’s Holliday Banks become more promotional over If need something, be responsible for the 19% 11% 18% 27% 29% says marketers and greatest increase in apparel I get it & leave retailers have to throw the holiday season. spending. “With a 62% Do not like out their preconceived shopping 2% 2% 2% 3% 4% ” increase between 2006 notions of what Boomers — Saks Inc. chairman and chief executive offi cer and 2015, their apparel want, because they aren’t Stephen Sadove. Page one. spending will be greater than any other age cohort.” aging like their parents and grandparents. In just 2008, however, Boomers accounted for “They won’t accept the aging process the way 35% of unit purchases of apparel and 33% of the previous generations did – they think younger, feel dollar purchases of apparel, according to NPD younger, act younger and look younger,” she remarks. Fashionworld’s AccuPanel. Meanwhile, Gen Xers in “Offer her fashion-conscious clothing and accessories Agyness Deyn 2008 account for 46% of apparel dollar sales. in figure-flattering fits that don’t look like she’s trying Holliday Banks explains that the rising cost to recapture her teens and don’t echo what her elderly of living, plus caring for aging parents, paying for mother wears.” college, and other children’s needs is placing increased Talbots’ Wagner says remaining vital came down TODAY ON demands on Boomers’ discretionary income. “Baby to recognizing that their customer skewers multiple Boomers, like many other consumers, are pulling in age groups and attitudes. “A lot of brands are trying the reins and spending less liberally than they have in to meet her needs with a single note. But these women the past.” are not single note.” Brown says clothing, travel and dining out are the top three things Boomers have cut spending on This story is one in a series of articles based on find- WWD during this current economic crisis. “We’ll see more ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ .COM value- and private-label shopping.” tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these Coldwater Creek’s target customer is 45-to-65 years pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it • WWD Featured old. This year, the retailer revamped its merchandising relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Images: Parties strategy and in-store layout. It narrowed its assortment and behavior regarding clothing, by 20%, so as to present relevant, updated styles • L.A. Fashion women don’t already own. And all stores now have appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Week coverage many other timely, relevant subjects. four “lifestyle shops”: casual sportswear, dressier ready- • WWD Blogs • Global breaking news

PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD PHOTOS BY • Daily stock prices WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 3 WWD.COM Axelson, O’Connor-Wente Join Ann Taylor Sokol Exiting Vera Wang By Marc Karimzadeh By David Moin Susan Sokol NEW YORK — Susan Sokol is leaving ANN TAYLOR FILLED TWO KEY POSI- Vera Wang. tions this week critical to the revitalization of Sokol, who has served as Vera the specialty chain, naming Lisa Axelson as Wang’s president of apparel for the senior vice president of design, and Mary Kay past four years, has been instrumen- O’Connor-Wente as senior vice president and JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY tal in transforming the fi rm from a director of stores. bridal to a multitiered fashion busi- “This really marks the completion of the ness. Her last day is Friday. senior team that will work to modernize the “I have tremendous respect for Ann Taylor business,” Christine Beauchamp, Vera as a designer, and over the president of Ann Taylor, told WWD in an ex- years, we have also become friends,” clusive interview. Sokol told WWD. “This was not an Beauchamp in August became president of easy decision.” Ann Taylor, which is a division of AnnTaylor Sokol declined to comment on Stores Corp. The corporation has recently her plans, but according to industry seen extensive executive turnover and de- sources, an announcement is expect- clining sales and profi ts. The company equally ed shortly. blames its own fashion misses and the econo- Sokol joined the company in 2004, my for the poor business. responsible for sales, merchandis- Beauchamp said the strategy she is formulat- ing, production, distribution and the ing will be geared to transforming Ann Taylor Christine Beauchamp development of strategic business into “an enduring style destination for what’s and Lisa Axelson plans for Wang’s apparel businesses. chic, sophisticated and relevant now.” Without She is largely credited with bringing being specific, she said the modernization She fi lls a position that was vacant for some a structure to the fashion house and would affect all aspects of the business, from time and starts Nov. 3. bringing in a team to build Wang’s fashion to stores to marketing. However, the fi rst But the addition of the new talent doesn’t designer collection, which indus- priority, she stressed, will be to get the product necessarily imply a shift in Ann Taylor’s tar- try sources peg at about $15 million right, which is where Axelson comes in. get age and niche. As Beauchamp said, with wholesale. “Lisa has a feminine, cosmopolitan design the turnaround strategy, “we really aren’t fo- During her tenure, Sokol also aesthetic, as well as boundless energy and drive,” cused on demographics. We are focused on helped conceptualize and build said Beauchamp. Axelson’s fi rst collection for psychographics and attitude.” the contemporary Lavender label, Ann Taylor will make its debut in the fall 2009 According to Axelson, part of the plan to which is sold in over 400 doors, and season. Her fi rst day on the job was Tuesday. modernize will entail plowing through the is estimated by sources to generate The two new Ann Taylor executives both archives to help bring the company more in $50 million in wholesale volume. have backgrounds at specialty stores that pre- touch with its roots, and modernize some of Recently, Sokol was instrumental in signing licenses for Lavender hand- dominantly cater more to younger customers its iconic items, which she listed as the shirt- bags and shoes, and securing an international distribution license with J. than the Baby Boomer-misses audience that dress, chic trenchcoats, pencil skirts and Roseroco New York Co. for Korea. Ann Taylor generally attracts. Axelson was most sheaths. Axelson also said stretch fabrics and “I think Susan is one of the most talented executives in the apparel in- recently senior vice president of design for Club items that are versatile enough to wear from dustry,” Wang said. “She succeeds at everything she does and we are sorry Monaco, a division of Polo Corp. day to evening will become more important in to lose her.” It could not be learned if a successor will be named. She began her career at Gap Inc., working on the assortment. Previously, Kay Krill, presi- Sokol came to Vera Wang with an extensive résumé. Before joining the the Banana Republic and Gap brands for nearly dent and chief executive offi cer, cited prints fi rm, she had served as a consultant and acting president at . 12 years. After that, she joined Abercrombie & and colors as being added to the collection, as Prior to that, she owned her own consulting fi rm, SLS Consulting LLC, Fitch and was part of the team that developed well as motorcycle jackets and ruffl e blouses. where she worked with the likes of Kors, Badgley Mischka, Judith Leiber the Ruehl brand, serving as vice president of For the second quarter, AnnTaylor Stores and Wang. She was chief executive offi cer of The Leiber Group (initially design for two years. At Ann Taylor, she suc- Corp. saw a 7.7 percent drop in net earnings called Pegasus Apparel Group) and, before that, president of ceeds Michael Smaldone, who joined Talbots. and a 10.8 percent drop in same-store sales. New York for three years. Sokol also spent 22 years at , rising to O’Connor-Wente was most recently at Ann Taylor operates 345 stores across the U.S. president of women’s Calvin Klein Collection, a post she held for 11 years. Express serving as zone vice president for the The parent AnnTaylor Stores Corp. operates a Earlier this year, Wang recruited Constance Darrow, once the president West region. Earlier, she held fi eld leadership total of 959 Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Loft, Ann of USA, as president of creative direction, overseeing the design stu- roles during her 15-year tenure at Victoria’s Taylor Factory and Loft outlets, as well as dio and all fashion product development, as well as the retail development Secret, where Beauchamp also once worked. anntaylor.com and anntaylorloft.com. and management of the Vera Wang freestanding boutiques.

Renown to Sell Aquascutum Outside Topshop. By Koji Hirano Topshop Doubles Up TOKYO — Renown said Wednesday that it in- tends to sell the Aquascutum brand, confi rm- With Tokyo Flagship ing mounting speculation the label was on By Amanda Kaiser the block. Speaking at a Tokyo press conference, TOKYO — Hennes & Mauritz may be erecting a tower Renown Inc. president Minoru Nakamura in Harajuku, but Topshop is making its own statement said the Japanese company’s board had fi nal- a few doors down the same strip. ized the asset sale as part of a wider restruc- The British fast-fashion brand has doubled the size of turing plan, although “to whom to sell and its fl agship here and plans to open seven stores in the city at how much has not been decided.” WWD over the next three years through a franchising agree- reported Oct. 7 that, according to industry ment with T’s, a newly created company controlled by sources, Aquascutum president and chief Mori Retail Systems and investment fund JBF Partners. executive Kim Winser is preparing a man- Mori runs the trendy retail complex Laforet, where agement buyout of the company she runs. Topshop opened its smaller, trial store two years ago. year net profi ts and an 11.7 percent surge in sales. A spokesman for Winser had no comment “It’s always been on our list of where we feel Topshop and Homer said she would have been curious to see the local Wednesday. Topman should be,” Topshop managing director Mary Homer H&M in action, but believes Topshop’s fashion edge sets it According to Renown, Aquascutum said. “[The Japanese are] brave. They sort of break the rules apart from other chains. She’s more focused on keeping up London generates sales of about 7.3 billion and that’s really what Topshop is about.” with the hundreds of specialty retailers and local labels that yen, or $71.34 million, and loses 2 billion The newly expanded Tokyo store, which opens today, occu- populate Tokyo’s streets. yen, or $19.5 million, annually. Renown is pies more than 5,320 square feet over two levels and houses “The big competition will be the more independent brands Aquascutum’s licensee in Japan and it in- both a Topshop and a Topman. The previous smaller store was rather than the big chains like Zara and H&M,” she said. tends to retain that right after selling the tucked into a second-fl oor corner of the shopping center while Homer, in Japan for the fi rst time, is touring potential sites brand. “We are seeking a new owner under the newly refurbished digs feature a street-level entrance along for new stores since the company is gunning to open its second that condition,” Nakamura said. the bustling Meiji street. The Laforet complex is almost directly store within six months. David Shepherd, managing director Renown also issued a profi t warning for opposite a large Gap store, another Harajuku landmark. for Topman, said the company is canvasing all the major shop- the current year ending next February. Net Hideki Takahashi, chief operating offi cer of T’s Co. Ltd., ping areas of the city including Shibuya, Ginza and Roppongi. losses are now seen coming in at 7 billion forecast the new store will post sales of 1 billion yen, or $9.8 Shepherd noted the trial store in Laforet received a “fan- yen, or $68.4 million, for the entire fi scal year, million, in its fi rst year of operation. That’s more than double tastic response,” which prompted management to strengthen compared with originally predicted net loss- the annual business of the old store. its ties to the Mori group. es of 2.9 billion yen, or $28.3 million. Sales The Topshop opening is the latest development on the Meanwhile, Topshop is plotting further international ex- are now seen coming in at 164 billion yen, or fast-fashion landscape here. While department stores and pansion. Currently Topshop and Topman run a network of $1.6 billion, compared with original predic- many other retailers are suffering in the current macroeco- 185 stores in the U.K. and 70 abroad. Last year, it moved into tion of 169 billion yen, or $1.65 billion. nomic climate, affordable fashion players are faring better. Russia, its biggest foreign market outside the U.K. Next year, it Renown also said it is offering early re- H&M opened its fi rst store in Japan last month to much fan- will open its much-anticipated New York fl agship. As for Asia, tirement incentives to about 300 employees fare and the Ginza fl agship is still attracting legions of local Shepherd said the company is posting double-digit growth in working for Renown and its subsidiaries. The shoppers and busloads of tourists. The Harajuku outpost will Singapore and Malaysia even though Topshop is relocating packages will generate extraordinary losses open early next month, followed by a third one in Shibuya. its fl agship on Singapore’s Orchard Road. He added that the of 1.8 billion yen, or $17.6 million, for the cur- Fast Retailing Co. Ltd.’s Uniqlo chain continues to show mo- retailer is in talks with a potential distribution partner for rent fi scal year. mentum. Just last week, it reported a 37 percent spike in full- the Hong Kong and Mainland China markets. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM CEW U.K. Honors Herrera Marc by Dives Into Swim MARC JACOBS HAS DIPPED HIS LONDON — Cosmetic Executive Women U.K. feted ’s toes into swimwear in the past, One of the new bikinis. career Monday, as well as those of a host of fixtures on the beauty offering a few suits here and scene here. there, but he’s fully taking the Herrera, whose namesake brand is controlled by Puig Beauty & plunge for spring 2009. Earlier Fashion Group, picked up a lifetime achiever award. Others recog- this week, Jacobs announced a nized for their contributions to the beauty industry included Romy licensing agreement with Swimwear Fraser, founder of Neal’s Yard Remedies; Noella Gabriel, Elemis’ Anywhere Inc., which will design director of product and treatment development; Hilary Dart, man- and manufacture swim separates aging director of Hilary Dart Associates, and Newby Hands, asso- and beachwear for the Marc by ciate editor and health Marc Jacobs collection. Based and beauty director of in Farmingdale, N.Y., Swimwear Harper’s Bazaar U.K. Anywhere is owned by Joseph and Per Neuman, manag- Rosemarie DiLorenzo and designs ing director of the Estée and markets 14 brands of swimwear, Lauder Cos. in the U.K. including Carmen Marc Valvo Swim, and Ireland, scooped a DKNY Swim, Michael Kors Swim,

special industry award. Juicy Couture Beach, Juicy Couture LEIGH JOHNSON PHOTO BY During the event, Beach Baby and Liz Claiborne. Robert McClatchie, The DiLorenzos also own the performance swimwear fi rm Tyr Sport Inc. Among the posh poolside managing director of Marc by Marc Jacobs styles are tanks and bikinis sold as separates, all of which will be available at Puig U.K., recited a speciality shops, department stores and, of course, Marc by Marc Jacobs stores worldwide. speech penned by the — Jessica Iredale late Enrique Puig, chairman of Puig Beauty & Fashion Group. “To work with Lucia van der Post, Carolina Herrera MEMO PAD Carolina is a pleasure,” and Robert McClatchie. he said. the fashion pages include plenty of Acne credits, SAFETY IN NUMBERS: New York Police Commissioner from a mesh top to a black knit hat (Dries Van Noten, Ray Kelly isn’t worried about rising crime as Junya Watanabe and Jonathan Saunders also make the Dow falls, but is concerned about how the appearances). Rounding out the cast of subjects in BEAUTY BEAT economy could affect the city’s ability to battle the issue, which has a print run of 25,000 and will terrorism. “I don’t expect to see former Lehman be available in bookstores, galleries and museums, “Two words sum her up — glamour and allure,” said journalist Brothers employees robbing a 7-Eleven,” he said to are Fashion Institute of Technology fashion historian Lucia van der Post, who presented Herrera’s award. “I think this is attendees at the Men’s Vogue Visionaries breakfast Valerie Steele; Rupert Thomas, editor in chief of The something most of us aspire to.” Wednesday morning at Lever House. “[But] we World of Interiors, and Robert Watson, whose offi cial For the designer, who introduced her debut scent, Carolina can’t afford…to take our eye off the ball. Now, title is Head of the Guild of Professional English Herrera Classic, in 1981 and now has a portfolio of 10 fragrances, it when we’re in this economic situation that we’re Butlers. — Sarah Haight was an opportunity to reminisce. in, we may, in fact, be more vulnerable.” “When I started my career as a fashion designer I always had Kelly outlined the city’s counterterrorism in mind that one day I would create a scent,” she said. “Since my initiatives, which include installing 1,000 beginnings I had the chance to be surrounded by wonderful teams. cameras in Lower Manhattan, opening a They took the name of Herrera fragrances to new heights and to- security command center there and using night I want to say thank you.” radiation detectors, which can detect threats — Louise Bartlett up to 15 miles outside the city. He admitted it was “diffi cult to say” whether the economic crisis would stall the implementation of any parts of those plans. Aside from measures to protect Lower Manhattan, which he described Wholesale Apparel Prices as “the most sensitive 1.7 square miles in the country,” Kelly said New York’s subway system is a particular point of concern, and Down 0.7% in September he’s hoping for more cameras there. As for Rita Wilson, , his boss, Mayor Bloomberg, running for a third , By Liza Casabona term, “I’m for it,” said Kelly (who, of course, and . is a politician himself). A former Marine and WASHINGTON — Wholesale prices for domestically manufactured holder of masters degrees from New York women’s and girls’ apparel declined 0.7 percent in September from University and Harvard, Kelly was asked what police the previous month and were off 0.1 percent from a year earlier, the character on TV most resembled him. “Stephen REEL EMPOWERED: “We’ve never directed, and Labor Department said Wednesday in its Producer Price Index. Colbert,” Kelly joked, before adding, “Harvey Keitel,” we all have different personalities and different Prices for all apparel dropped 0.2 percent in the month, but in- since they look alike. — Stephanie D. Smith approaches,” a Catherine Malandrino-clad Demi creased 0.9 percent compared to September 2007. Moore said of her directing debut, along with Prices for all U.S.-produced goods moderated in September, as THE LANGUAGE OF FASHION: The seventh issue of the actress Courteney Cox and screenwriter Kirsten well, falling a seasonally adjusted 0.4 percent. Prices dropped 0.9 biannual Acne Paper, which will launch tonight Smith, for Glamour magazine’s fourth annual “Reel percent in August after increasing 1.2 percent in July. The core PPI, with a party at the New York Public Library, has a Moments” screening. “But our producers were excluding more volatile food and energy prices, increased 0.4 per- few unlikely interview subjects, though none more saints, helping us deliver both a good product and a cent in September. so than Noam Chomsky. The MIT linguist agreed to great experience so that we might see more female The overall index was driven down in part by the energy sector, speak to correspondent Karin Strom about the nature directors out there.” Glamour’s gala, sponsored by where prices fell 2.9 percent. of trends in language after receiving an interview Suave, lauded fresh opportunities for women to “The weakening economy is dampening demand for all fuels,” said request from editor in chief Thomas Persson, who express themselves creatively by letting actresses Patrick Newport, U.S. economist at Global Insight. “This is also help- sent along back copies of the magazine, which and writers claim the director’s seat for one of three ing to relax cost pressures and bringing producer prices down.” included an interview with philosopher Ken Wilber. short fi lms. Past “Reel Moments” directors Rita The vast majority of apparel sold in the U.S. is imported, “It was interesting to speak to Chomsky about Wilson, Jennifer Aniston and Kirsten Dunst also came to but price fl uctuations in domestic prices are still notable. The language because it is something we use everyday, celebrate, as did Moore’s husband, Ashton Kutcher. Consumer Price Index, which tracks retail price changes, will be a subject of great tradition, but also of constant “I want to impart to women that they should released Thursday. change — not unlike fashion, if you think about just be undaunted in the way they live their lives, Producer prices for women’s and girls’ knit shirts and blouses, it,” explained Persson, who is also creative director not letting rejection get them down,” said Smith, and suits and pantsuits were fl at compared with August, but de- of Swedish clothing label Acne Jeans, now simply director of the short “The Spleenectomy,” starring clined 0.4 percent and 1.9 percent, respectively, compared with called Acne. as a ditzy mom who takes an unexpected September 2007. Wholesale prices for woven shirts and blouses de- The magazine’s fall-winter issue, route to becoming an actress. clined 5 percent from August, but increased 3.7 percent from a year which features a fashion layout with Moore’s “Streak,” starring earlier. Women’s tailored jackets and vests dropped 0.2 percent in Guinevere Van Seenus shot by Daniel Brittany Snow and Rumer Willis, monthly comparison and increased 0.8 percent year-over-year. Jackson as well as an interview An image likewise focused on overcoming Wholesale prices for dresses advanced 0.2 percent in the month and with and photo essay by Nan Goldin, from Acne obstacles by tenderly tackling 1.5 percent for the year. Prices for jeans and slacks were up 0.1 percent focuses on “tradition,” emphasizing Paper. female body image issues. in the month, but dropped 1.1 percent in yearly comparisons. established — though not entirely Cox’s “The Monday Before September prices for apparel fabric, also called textile mill prod- obvious — players in design, Thanksgiving” rounded out the ucts, increased 1.1 percent from August and spiked 5.9 percent year- photography, politics, art and sport theme of empowerment with its to-year. Textile product mill prices, primarily home furnishing and (the latter subject highlighted by tale of a woman who, distraught industrial fabric, increased 0.7 percent from August and climbed 3.5 an interview with 1972 Olympic over the death of her mother, percent from the prior year. gold medal gymnast Olga Korbut). learns how to let go. Featuring a Deeper in the manufacturing pipeline, prices were also up While Persson, whose Sweden- performance by , the across the board. Synthetic fi ber prices climbed 3.7 percent from based company has grown to movie’s optimism seemed to rub August and 7.4 percent from a year ago. Yarn costs were up 1.4 per- include fi lm, digital and advertising off on its star: “The time is here cent in the month and 8.6 percent for the year. Finished fabric pric- departments, said the magazine when there is no stigma about es gained 1 percent for the month and 6.1 percent from the prior isn’t intended to “promote the Acne women directing,” Dern affi rmed. year. Greige fabrics were fl at in September, but increased 2.9 per- clothes, but rather to refl ect the “Make movies, make movies, make cent from September 2007. creative culture that is Acne,” and movies.” — Jeremy Allen

6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 Prefabulous in the Park THERE’S PREFAB, AND THEN THERE’S PREFAB according to Karl Lagerfeld and Zaha Hadid. Their Space-Agey designer spin on portable structures, known as Chanel’s Mobile Art pavilion, has touched down in Central Park’s Rumsey Playfield. For the past three weeks, a construction crew has been busily assembling the pavilion’s 700-odd parts for Monday’s opening. They’re familiar with the process; this marks the third time the team has put together and taken apart the gleaming white fiberglass torus, now halfway through its journey round the world, which began in March in Hong Kong, followed by Tokyo, and will continue on to London, Moscow and finally , in 2010. New York may be the third stop on the trip, but London-based architect Hadid said the project actually began here at the Mercer Hotel, where she and Lagerfeld often stay. “I had seen him there many times, and one time he came and said hello to me. A few months later, the request for this project came in,” said Hadid Wednesday by phone from her London offi ce, where she was recovering from the fl u before fl ying Stateside for the opening. As one of fashion’s go-to collaborators, Pritzker Prize-winning Hadid, who has worked with and Swarovski before, said designing with Lagerfeld was relatively low-key. “We had a presentation in Paris, and he liked it and that’s how we knew,” she explained. “It’s a great luxury working with Karl, because he can understand drawings. He’s very exciting to work with, and he’s quite funny.” As for the futuristic structure their relationship built, Hadid said she wanted it to The beauty for relate to her other “ work, characterized me is the space, by organic spatial orientation. “A torus the volume she is basically like a spiral,” she said of designed. the exhibition’s home, ” which looks not unlike — Karl Lagerfeld a grounded UFO. “You start where you begin, you begin where you end and move from one space to another. It sounds light, like you’re just going to fl oat it around and land it somewhere, but it’s very complicated.” As much as the pavilion is an architectural marvel, it’s also a modular dwelling for modern art. In fact, the entire project was conceived as a celebratory event for the 50th anniversary of Coco Chanel’s quilted 2.55 handbag, launched in February 1955. Once inside the space, visitors meander through specially commissioned installations loosely inspired by the 2.55. Yoko Ono, Blue Noses, Sylvie Fleury and Lee Bul are among the 18 artists whose works are on display. A tour of the site on Tuesday night saw Bul and Fabrice Hyber’s work nearly complete, while video installations by Subodh Gupta and Fleury’s oversize handbag were still marked by signs that read “Watch Out Art Works.” Since the pavilion was designed to be packed up as is and taken from place to place, the main news in New York is the landscape and how it works with the structure. “In Hong Kong it was under a car park, and in Tokyo it was next to the skyline,” said Hadid. “This is much more related to where all the museums are. You’re basically in a void, the park, and the light quality is very different.” And that will be the New York exhibition’s main difference, thanks to new skylights cut above Ono’s Wish Tree in the central atrium. Much of the rest has and will remain the same through Mobile Art’s travels, which might leave those, Lagerfeld included, who have toured the torus’ previous incarnations in Hong Kong or Tokyo with a little déjà vu. “Normally, I don’t do things several times,” demurred Lagerfeld, who has already attended the Hong Kong opening. “But it is New York.” And he is quite a fan of Hadid. “The beauty for me is the space, the volume she designed,” which, he said, is worlds apart from the white cubes that dominate the contemporary art scene. Lest the artists’ abstract versions of Chanel’s quilted classic leave fashion fans longing for the real thing, four limited edition 2.55s — red patent, ivory and navy alligator, and a jumbo-size navy patent style, all signed by Lagerfeld — will be available at the fi rm’s 57th Street and SoHo stores. The bags are priced up to $31,500, while the exhibition is free, although apparently no less a limited edition. On-site tickets are reportedly available daily, but all 23,000 advance tickets “sold out” in 36 hours. Daniel Buren’s stripes and Tabaimo’s video well. — Jessica Iredale, with contributions from Miles Socha WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Skylights in the atrium. The pavilion’s exterior.

Michael Lin’s tiled fl oor.

Construction in the torus.

Yang Fudong’s video installation.

Buren’s striped wall.

Loris Cecchini’s chandelier. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM Denim Report IK Retail Building New DNA in U.S. By Beth Wilson IK RETAIL GROUP, LED BY IRAKLIS LOS Karabassis, who helped grow Benetton in the U.S., is rolling out a new retail concept, den- ANGELES im-based DNA 2050 with stores in New York, Chicago and Tysons Galleria in McLean, Va. spring ’09 In addition to those locations, DNA 2050 is to launch another women’s and men’s boutique in downtown Chicago, possibly this year. It continues to scout for a second site in New York and retail space in Atlanta and in Washington D.C.’s Georgetown section. “DNA 2050 came about as we recognized Reality a gap in the contemporary market for qual- ity, trendy concepts for men and women in a multibrand environment that does not en- courage customers to look alike as clones,” Check Karabassis said. Its fi rst Chicago store, DNA’s largest at 2,800 square feet, is on North Halsted Street : Her personal in the Lincoln Park neighborhood near style is beloved by legions of girls, thanks to her hit MTV show “” and plenty of coverage in the tabloids, and looks in that tastefully pretty vein are just what the 22-year-old sent out for spring. While the collection was far from groundbreaking, the abstract fl oral and dotted print dresses in simple shapes, some trimmed with bands of The DNA 2050 boutique in Chicago is shredded silk, will probably its largest at 2,800 square feet. do what’s intended — sell. In the Chicago store, which features a denim wall and evokes a modern, GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY minimalistm vibe, prices range from a $70 J. Lindeberg for William Rast T-shirtT- to a $1,600 Just Cavalli leather more from the shows... BCOClbMdTRliiBarneys Co-Op, Club Monaco and True Religion. jacket,jkt as well l as $175 to $220 jersey dresses by The boutique features a G-Star Raw shop-in- SportMax Code. The denim selection includes Crispin & Ed Hardy shop (IK Retail Group is also helping the Dutch Seven For All Mankind, Levi’s, Anlo, and Basilio denim brand expand its U.S. presence) as well as Rich & Skinny, among other brands. fashions from SportMax Code, J. Lindeberg for Gamero forecast sales for the Chicago store from William Rast and John Varvatos for Converse. its opening in late July to July 2009 at $2 million. “The concept is denim at its core, but it’s not a Washington, D.C.-based IK Retail Group, denim store,” said Mauricio Gamero, brand man- meanwhile, continues to do what it initially did ager for DNA 2050, who added that store sizes av- for Benetton, assuming the role of partner with erage 1,500 to 2,000 square feet. European brands to grow in the U.S., counting The company’s name, DNA 2050, is intended both G-Star Raw and as partners. The to connote evolution and longevity — a customer company negotiates real estate, trains staff and who is a step ahead of others and who has an in- invests in the U.S. expansion, Karabassis said. dividualistic spirit. Karabassis, who sold the Benetton stores he “You can combine the clothes in your own owned as a franchisee back to Benetton corporate way,” Gamero said. “How you wear it and put it this spring, owns DNA 2050 and three restaurants together, it’s your DNA.” in the Washington area. Sourcing Shift, Sales Lift Joe’s Jeans By Ross Tucker business because of the diffi cult economic envi- ronment. Crossman added that specialty stores’ STRONG SALES AND A MOVE TO OFFSHORE denim businesses were adversely affected by the sourcing boosted Joe’s Jeans Inc. to major earn- heavy promotional activity of department stores ings gains in the third quarter. during the summer months. The -based premium denim label Results also were driven by a shift from domes- Viridis said earnings vaulted to $2.2 million, or 4 cents a tic sourcing to lower-cost facilities in Mexico and Luxe diluted share for the three months ended Aug. 31, Morocco. Sandhu said 86 percent of all product compared with $913,000, or 2 cents, in the same shipped was manufactured outside the U.S., com- Beach Bunny Swimwear period a year ago. pared with 79 percent in the previous quarter. Crispin & Basilio: With a minimalist touch, “We are pleased with the progress we made this For the nine months through August, earnings designer Donny Barrios sent out a concise, quarter and we look forward to capitalizing on our spiked to $5.1 million, or 9 cents, compared with sophisticated collection of silk crepe cocktail position in the marketplace for 2009,” said Marc $1.2 million, or 3 cents, for the same period a year dresses and separates in a clean, neutral Crossman, president and chief executive offi cer. ago. Sales rose 15 percent to $51.4 million from palette. Sales in the period rose 16.2 percent to $18.2 $44.7 million. million from $15.7 million, with growth across the Joe’s is looking to expand its company-owned Viridis Luxe: Presentation is everything, and company’s women’s, men’s, international and chil- retail network. Last week, the company opened its designer Hala Bahmet’s recycled hardware dren’s businesses. fi rst store, in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood. accessories gave her collection of ruffl ed Hamish Sandhu, chief fi nancial offi cer, said Crossman said the company is on track to open and shirred organic tops and dresses some women’s sales at domestic department stores three more units by the end of the year. A second street cred. gained 24 percent during the quarter. store is to launch in the last week of this month at “We’re not seeing canceled orders,” Crossman Woodbury Commons in Woodbury, N.Y. Ed Hardy: Unapologetic about his penchant said of the department store channel. “They’re Crossman said Joe’s will be able to achieve for excess — more tattoo prints, more clearly ordering closer to the vest. When you look single-digit growth during the fourth quarter and embellishment, more than 75 licenses at at premium denim as a whole within the depart- will introduce a revamped core women’s range to last count — designer Christian Audigier’s ment store, it’s obviously a bright spot.” kick-start the new year. signature hoodies and T-shirts were layered However, he acknowledged that what qualifi ed “You have to be a lot more creative to pull away with abandon over barely-there swimwear and as a bright spot in this retail environment could from being a basic fi ve-pocket, so that runs the gamut fl ashy denim. mean business was down 5 percent or fl at. on everything you can do with the jeans,” he said. Gains among department stores were partly More emphasis is being put on details such as Beach Bunny Swimwear: The Playmates sitting offset by declining orders from the company’s spe- hand-stitching, embellishments and distressed in the front row could cause quite a poolside cialty store customers, many of which have been looks. Management hopes its more mature customer stir in Angela Chittenden’s racy metallic or forced to reduce inventories or have gone out of will remain willing to pay for premium products. lingerie-like bikinis and cover-ups. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 9 WWD.COM The Beat Contemporary Firms Buckle Up for a Rough Ride By Julee Kaplan want to go that route, Sparks said that what he has managed to do with Rockwood has worked quite well for young designer clients such as Trovata, Form, Geren Ford and CONTEMPORARY DESIGNERS ARE BRACING THEMSELVES FOR THE UPCOMING Imitation (a brand which Sparks also owns). tough run at retail. “We have grouped these brands together on the business end, so that we can keep According to The NPD Group, women between the ages of 18 and 34 spent $31.31 bil- costs down on the back end in areas like production and manufacturing,” he said. “It’s lion on apparel between August 2007 and July 2008. During that same period last year, been a great way to structure these businesses in this economy.” sales in the sector stood at $33.22 billion — almost a 6 percent decrease in spending. Rebecca Taylor’s business partner, Beth Bugdaycay, said she has switched her As a result, contemporary brands are taking several steps to at least maintain their thinking entirely when critiquing their collections largely because stores carrying sales levels, if not exactly grow them. The moves include offering more of a range in the brand have cut back on their open-to-buy dollars. price points, cutting and fi ne-tuning the number of styles on their lines and bulking “We are thinking in terms of retail sales these days, we are looking at our line and up customer service. thinking like a retailer, putting ourselves in the shoes of the end customer,” she said. “I would say generally department stores are planning their business down,” said “We have become much more critical of our line.” Andrew Oshrin, president and chief executive offi cer of Milly, the eight-year-old con- As a result, as retailers have become more conservative in their ordering, temporary brand started by Oshrin and his wife, designer Michelle Smith. “Neiman Bugdaycay said Rebecca Taylor has cut its offerings down. Marcus is our biggest customer and I would say they are being conservative, and that “Instead of offering 20 styles, we are offering 15 styles all with very strong mes- is probably a good thing.” sages,” she said. “Stores have said they don’t want safe items from us, they want ex- tremely special pieces that can’t be resisted.” Bugdaycay said her retailers have also suggested the designer offer a wide range Stacey Pecor of Olive & Bette’s of prices — bringing the lowest price down even further and the highest price higher. complimented Tibi’s spring lineup. For spring, that means having a knit leopard tank top with an opening retail price point of $125 and a metallic chiffon maxidress that will retail for $595. “We do still have those emotional buys happening. It seems that if the customer is going to spend, it really has to be something extremely special,” she said. To keep items on the lower end of the price scale, Bugdaycay said the fi rm is taking its best-selling items and reinterpreting them in a jersey fabric, wholesal- ing items in the category between $52 and $265. “So far, fall is retailing pretty well,” she said. “It’s not moving as fast as we would like, but it’s still doing well.” Nanette Lepore said she is heavily focused on the end consumer — working to make sure she is purchasing even in these tough times. The company just launched an ad campaign for the fi rst time and will also be providing new sell- ing tools, such as look books at the retail level. “We’ve been taking a lower markup on our tops so we can bring the prices down and have a full, well-rounded collection,” she said. “I want people to be able to come in and buy an entire outfi t for under $1,000. That’s the goal.” Lepore said she is also not replenishing items as much as she has in the past, only recutting a small amount for reorders. “I think I do my best work when I’m in fear of what’s going on,” she said. “We had our best Coterie in three seasons, so that says something about the strength

I would say generally department stores are “planning their business down. ” — Andrew Oshrin, Milly

of the collection. I’m feeling good about our prices, we just will have to sit tight and see what happens.” Om Batheja, vice president at Tracy Reese, believes customer service is key. “Our focus is on customer service,” he said. “In addition, we are differentiating our brands more clearly — Tracy Reese, with [the higher end line,] Black Label; Plenty by Tracy Reese and Frock by Tracy Reese — and focusing better on their respective market segments.” Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss, owner of Shoshanna, said she had her best-selling Coterie ever after adjusting her price points to fi t the times. “At the last Intermezzo show we had some expensive dresses, about $575, which was just too high for us and stores just said ‘no way,” she said. “But now we have a very A spring look from Milly. ▲ tight, well-edited line so our stores went even deeper into their buying at Coterie.”

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, ROBERT MITRA, JOHN AQUINO AND TALAYA CENTENO JOHN AQUINO AND TALAYA MITRA, GEORGE CHINSEE, ROBERT PHOTOS BY With average wholesale prices now ranging between $130 and $160, buyers could easily manage that, she said. But, overall, she said, going into spring selling, stores While it may be good for retailers to closely watch their spending on spring were being conservative in their buys. merchandise, designers are starting to get nervous. Oshrin said his business “It just pushes us to make sure every piece is important,” she said. “And that isn’t is still OK overall, but he will close 2008 with sales down by 5 percent, when a bad thing, it just makes us stronger.” he had planned to increase them by 15 percent to 20 percent this year. “It will be like a lost year, but we will really only know the extent when we see what pans out over the next few months,” he said. “Given the general economic outlook, we made a concerted effort to maintain our prices comparable to spring ’08 despite the weak purchasing power of the U.S. dollar. When pricing, we looked very carefully at every single piece to ensure that the value is strong.” Stacey Pecor, owner of the four Olive & Bette’s boutiques in Manhattan, said that while her business was up 10 percent this August over last, she is keeping a close eye on her buying for spring. “I’m nervous about spring, but I’m also glad that all my stores are in New York and not scattered everywhere since that alone makes us special,” she said. “It was really hard to go into the trade shows and the runway shows when the fi nancial news has been so negative, but at the same time, I’m not fi nding much price resistance now, I’m turning fast at full price.” For spring, Pecor said she is planning to beef up her accessories assortment, es- pecially by offering more scarves so customers can still purchase something new and less expensive to spruce up their wardrobes. “Rebecca Taylor looks amazing for spring, better than I have ever seen it,” she said. “Tibi was also good, she took some risks, which I love to see. But overall, I was hoping for more from my vendors — there is no way I’m going to sell those jumpsuits I saw all over the place and I was hoping there would be more highlighter colors, which tend to sell well in a tough economy.” Josh Sparks, chief executive offi cer at Rockwood Management Group, a New York- based fi rm specializing in consulting for the contemporary apparel market, predicts a great deal of fallout in the coming months. “It’s just evidence that the old business doesn’t work anymore,” Sparks said. “Emerging designers who only do a couple million dollars in business every year will not be able to sustain their businesses in this economy.” Sparks said many contemporary companies may fi nd that they have to sell a stake in their businesses in order to sustain a healthy volume. While many designers don’t ▲ Spring looks from Form, Nanette Lepore and Rebecca Taylor. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM

FROM ER T T E L

8 0 0 2 Oct. 16, DALLAS

The Winspear Opera House, designed by Norman Foster. PHOTO BY NAN COULTER PHOTO BY

Downtown is well past the“ tipping point. Everything Downtown Revival happening in and around By Holly Haber paign in the U.S., said Billy Lively, president and chief executive offi cer. downtown is extremely positive A 12-YEAR-OLD EFFORT TO BREATHE LIFE INTO “We are at 128 [donations of $1 million or more] today, the once-moribund city center appears to be finally and we’ve raised $333 million,” Lively said. “More than and the best it’s been in the 20 paying off. There are now 5,300 residents in the central 80 percent of donors have not before given to the arts. business district, along with new restaurants, hotels, They say they are making an extraordinary investment years I’ve been in Dallas. nightlife and a thriving arts community. Another 25,000 in the future of Dallas. They believe it will help make ” people live in surrounding urban neighborhoods includ- Dallas competitive in attracting companies and families — John Sughrue, Brook Partners ing Uptown, Deep Ellum, Victory Park, the Cedars and for relocation because our cultural landscape is about the Design District. to be redefi ned dramatically.” And while downtown Dallas may still not be as ac- The performing arts center will be active 340 nights tive as the cores of some older cities, it’s enjoyed a huge a year with performances by the Dallas Opera, dance, “Over the last fi ve or six years, downtown [offi ce space] improvement from 1990 when just 300 people resided theater and touring Broadway productions. It is ex- has been dramatically more attractive than it was in 2001 downtown and the streets were utterly deserted after pected to draw 800,000 people and pump $200 million or 2002,” observed Bret Hefton, senior associate at Cresa business hours. into the local economy each year, not including ticket Partners real estate advisors. “The Arts District is a big “Downtown is well past the tipping point,” said John sales, Lively said. draw because you see cranes and buildings going up.… Sughrue, founder and chief executive of Brook Partners, Another big score is a blockbuster exhibition of But there is not enough parking [for offi ce tenants]. That which has redeveloped three buildings downtown, in- Egyptian artifacts starring King Tut’s wardrobe and ac- is by far the biggest negative about downtown.” cluding the Fashion Industry Gallery wholesale venue cessories at the DMA. Since retail follows residents, stores have trickled next to the Dallas Museum of Art. “We hope to change the way people think about com- in slowly. They include Jos. A. Bank men’s clothier, “Everything happening in and around downtown is ing downtown and break those barriers about parking Crimson in the City contemporary boutique and Benji’s extremely positive and the best it’s been in the 20 years and transportation,” said DMA director Bonnie Pitman, Collezioni designer store. All are within a block of I’ve been in Dallas.” noting one million people are expected to visit the mu- ’ fl agship and headquarters, which stood More than $1.8 billion has been invested over the seum to see the pharaoh’s ancient fi nery. as downtown’s sole fashion merchant for years. past fi ve years in the cen- “You will see Dallas Inevitably, the national banking crisis is slowing tral business district, the come alive,” predicted down new development, Sughrue noted, including his skyline that’s circled by a A rendering of the Wyly Lucy Billingsley, a founder plan to erect a $200 million luxury condo tower in the loop of freeways, according Theatre, designed by and partner in Billingsley Arts District. to Downtown Dallas, a non- Joshua Prince-Ramus Co., which last year opened “We have $50 million in pre-sales,” he said. “I am still profi t advocacy group. and Rem Koolhaas. a 24-story tower next to the hoping to get back on fi rm footing and break ground by And it appears the best is DCPA and has plans for yearend.” yet to come. a sister structure. “We’ve Some projects are already funded, such as the $17 The cornerstone of never had a beautiful million Main Street Garden opening in February and downtown’s revitalization heart-of-the-city, and once the $56 million plan to create a deck over Woodall is the $348 million Dallas we have it, people will Rogers Freeway, a 10-lane canyon-like motorway divid- Center for the Performing want to take part and take ing downtown from Uptown. Arts rising only blocks from ownership.” The deck project will form a park linking the Arts the DMA. Billingsley’s tower District with Uptown, a hotbed of development where Set to open Oct. 12, 2009, made history as the fi rst the Ritz-Carlton hotel and residences opened last year the multitheater complex addition to Dallas’ skyline and four towers are currently under construction. will boast dramatic ar- in 18 years, with a sleek Other neighborhoods surrounding the central busi- chitecture — an opera contemporary building ness district are also seeing major development. Baylor house encased in dark red housing 7-Eleven Corp., University Medical Center last month announced plans glass designed by Norman 61 luxury condos and fi ve to build a $350 million cancer center and hospital to be Foster and a high-tech ver- restaurants. completed in 2013 on downtown’s eastern fl ank. tical theater by Rem Koolhaas — plus outdoor perfor- Downtown also won the corporate relocation of Victory Park, the $3 billion urban development on the mance spaces. AT&T, which is moving from San Antonio to a build- northwestern shoulder of downtown, will move tenants The DCPA anchors the largest contiguous arts district ing it has long owned, as well as Comerica Bank and into a new offi ce tower starting Monday and a condo tower in the country, and the only one to claim four buildings Tenet Healthcare. in December. Since 2006, the W Hotel & Residences, an by Pritzker Prize-winning architects. On Monday, Capital One Bank said it will establish a offi ce plaza and several apartment buildings with ground- Besides Foster and Koolhaas, they are the Nasher regional offi ce there, noting it is committed to the “vi- fl oor retail, have opened on Victory’s 75-acre site, which Sculpture Center by Renzo Piano unveiled in 2003 and brancy of downtown Dallas.” is anchored by the American Airlines Center arena. I.M. Pei’s Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center, which At the same time, however, big law fi rms have moved “This city has re-created itself over the last fi ve years opened in 1989. out of the city center, where the offi ce vacancy rate re- and will re-create itself over the next fi ve,” Sughrue as- Entirely privately funded, the DCPA has reaped do- mains a sizable 20 percent, about 2 percent less than serted. “I like downtown Dallas. I don’t apologize for it. nations of $1 million or more, the most of any arts cam- three years ago. It is a pretty dynamic urban center.”

VITAL STATS second quarter 2008: 739,714 nationwide: $403,738 Their median price: $142,500, down 2 percent. Number of Dallas homes posted for foreclosure, Increase over the same period in 2007: Sales of existing North Texas homes in August: second quarter 2008: 7,638 121 percent Down 18 percent from a year ago. SOURCES: REALTYTRAC; COLDWELL BANKER REAL ESTATE; Increase in Dallas foreclosures over same period Current average price of a four-bedroom Dallas Their median price: $150,000, down 3 percent. RESIDENTIAL STRATEGIES; STANDARD & POOR’S/CASE-SHILLER HOME in 2007: 10.1 percent home: $326,425 Sales of existing homes in September: PRICE INDEX; NORTH TEXAS REAL ESTATE INFORMATION SYSTEM AND Number of U.S. homes posted for foreclosure, Current average price of a four-bedroom home Up 2 percent. TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY REAL ESTATE CENTER righthere Accessories: Claudia Loboa-jewelry • Sandy Duftler-belts • Susan Farber-handbags Accessories: Claudia Loboa-jewelry • Sandy

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FashionCenterDallas Suite 15727 Dallas, TX 75342 214-905-9656 Tel 214-905-1354 Fax 1-800-987-9871 www.bradhughesassoc.com 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM

FROM ER T T E L

8 0 0 2 Region’s Strength Driving Market Oct. 16, DALLAS By Holly Haber Azria on behalf of the DMC. The award salutes the swift success of Hervé Léger by Max Azria, The World Trade BUSINESS EXPECTATIONS ARE STRONG the French dress label that has won a celebrity Center is home to for FashionCenterDallas’ spring market begin- clientele since Azria relaunched it last year. FashionCenterDallas. ning Oct. 23 — and ironically, part of the opti- The designer has had a long relationship mism can be attributed to the travails of the with the DMC via his corporate showroom for national economy. BCBG, which claims a prime spot on the 15th “We’re hearing that a lot of retailers did fl oor of the World Trade Center. not go to New York due to the cost of travel, The winners in the eight DFA product cat- so they are looking to come here,” said Cindy egories awards will be revealed at the black tie Morris, chief operating offi cer of the Dallas gala on Oct. 25, and a Personal Style award will Market Center Co., which operates the whole- be presented to local editor Gianna Madrini, sale fashion venue at the World Trade Center. style editor and executive producer of Global “Our hotel bookings are up 10 percent. We are a Fashion News, a production company. huge travel bargain here, and that is a big sell- FashionCenterDallas at the DMC showcases ing point for us.” more than 14,000 lines in 550 permanent show- In addition, Morris expects an unusually rooms and two temporary venues. large number of international retailers to attend The October Dallas show also marks the the Dallas show as a result of changing market kickoff of a new prom and pageant area cover- strategies. ing 18,000 square feet on the 14th fl oor, where “We will have 85 buyers representing House of Wu, Alyce Designs, P.C. Mary’s and 62 specialty stores coming in from Central Casablanca Bridal have taken corporate show- America, the Caribbean, Japan, , rooms. Vendors in a contiguous temporary the Dominican Republic, Saudi Arabia and venue include Eden Bridals, Sharon Boikess Mexico,” Morris said. with Morilee, John Amato with Maggie Sottero Another reason for optimism on the DMC and Jordan Bridal. event is the strength of the region’s economy, In addition, several contemporary sports- she noted. wear, loungewear, accessory and lingerie labels “There is certainly an amount of caution, will be introduced to market at the new show- but we are sitting in the right place because room of Deyanira & Rafael Espinal showroom in we have done better than the rest of the coun- room 15016, including Maristella Citella dresses try,” Morris said. “September was tough and and tops and Fleur’t Lingerie from Brazil. Hurricane Ike didn’t help at all, but that re- Additional new showrooms include Mavi gion [particularly the Houston area] is coming Jeans in 15002-A; Pink Lotus & Green Dragon back. We are hearing that business is rebound- in 15058, and Rob Koenig in 15802. ing there.” Labels new to the market include jewelry The Dallas Fashion Awards will be a tra- by Just Cavalli and Nicole Miller at Moore ditional highlight of the spring market, and Collections, and junior contemporary sports- this year “Mad Men” star January Jones will wear labels Black Velvet, Golden State and present the Fashion Excellence Award to Max Yumi/Uttam London at Leon & Associates.

8:30 a.m.: Scene Breakfast, Scene Kim Dawson Runway Café, WTC 14. FRIDAY, OCT. 24 Skylight, WTC 15. MARKET CALENDAR Temps, WTC 13. 4 p.m.: Contemporary Trends by 9 a.m.: Scene Top Trends by Gregor The Dallas Market Center will host 9:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.: Market Gregor Simmons, Gregor Simmons Simmons of Gregor Simmons Ltd. SATURDAY, OCT. 25 the FashionCenterDallas apparel and Massages, WTC 12 Atrium. Ltd. Buying Offi ces, Scene Seminar Buying Offi ces, Scene Seminar 10 a.m.: Keynote Seminar: The Big accessories market Oct. 23 to 26 10 a.m.: KidsWorld Brunch, Stage, WTC 13. Stage, WTC 13. Picture: Incoming Trends in Style by in the World Trade Center. Here’s a KidsWorld Atrium, WTC 8. 6-8 p.m.: A Tribute to John Denver 10 a.m.: Discovery Tour: A Walking David Wolfe of The Doneger Group, rundown of events. 2 p.m. Thurs.-Sat., 1 p.m. Sun.: Mix & With Roy Rivers and Steve Weisberg, Tour of Accessories by Rawlins Scene Seminar Stage, WTC 13. Mingle, 15900 Aisle, WTC 15. 14300 Aisle, WTC 14. Featuring Gilliland. Meet at Kim Dawson 6:30 p.m.: 33rd Annual Dallas MARKET HOURS Roy Rivers, a six-time European Runway Café, WTC 14. Fashion Awards Gala. Cocktails and 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m. THURSDAY, OCT. 23 CMA Award winner and singer/ Noon and 1 p.m.: Kim Dawson silent auction start at 6:30 p.m.; 9 a.m.: Bridge 2009 Spring Forecast songwriter, and Steve Weisberg, FCD Runway Café Fashion Shows, Kim dinner and awards begin at 7:30 DAILY by Gregor Simmons, Gregor sales rep and former lead guitarist Dawson Runway Café, WTC 14. p.m.; Grand Pavilion, TM 1. Tickets: 8:30 a.m.: Java Jumpstart, World Simmons Ltd. Buying Offi ces, Scene for John Denver, WTC, 14614. 5-7 p.m.: Fashion Attack. 214-655-7635. Trade Center (WTC 1),fi rst fl oor, and Seminar Stage, WTC 13. 6-9 p.m.: DMC Tours the Dallas Cocktails and hors d’oeuvres; 6-9 p.m.: DMC Tours the Dallas Back Skylight, WTC 15. 3 p.m.: Discovery Tour: Museum of Art’s “King Tut” exhibit. fashion show begins at 6 p.m., Museum of Art’s “King Tut” exhibit. 8:30 a.m.: Hot Breakfast First on 14, FashionCenterDallas Apparel Meet at the WTC Food Court, WTC 1, Runway Café, WTC 14. Cocktails Meet at the WTC Food Court, Front and Back Skylights, WTC 14. Adventure, Rawlins Gilliland. Meet at $25 per ticket (tickets are limited). only, Scene, WTC 13; Front WTC 1, Dallas Market Center.

A pectoral from the With creative dining, trendy shops and a rich cultural heritage, here “King Tutankhamun” are some spots where — as the city’s slogan declares — it’s always exhibit at the Dallas possible to “Live Large, Think Big.” Museum of Art. SCENE CIBUS: Plenty of seafood and pasta are on the menu at anchor the contemporary decor, and the new menu is Alberto Lombardi’s latest concept, which opens today largely Texas-grown, from exotic game to herbs from at NorthPark Center when it hosts the after party for the rooftop garden. Chef J.W. Foster believes in simple Neiman Marcus’ runway show at Fashion at the Park. preparations that allow fl avors to shine, and he’s so Lombardi surveyed the Adriatic coastal region of his particular about mustard, pickles, sausage and sorbet youth, Emilia Romagna in Italy, to create Cibus, which that he makes them in house. means “food” in Latin. Cibus is part casual cafe, part white-tablecloth dining room. And given Lombardi’s RENEE ROULEAU SKIN CARE: Local beauty expert Renee preference for accessible pricing, everything on the Rouleau has come up with the ultimate age-defying menu is under $20 — except, of course, the vino. facial: a two-hour, seven-step overhaul that promises glowing skin. If the $600 price is too extravagant, JORGE’S: This Tex-Mex import from Midland in west consider a consultation for her treatments. Crafted for Texas makes one of the best margaritas in town — which nine individual skin types instead of the usual three, is saying something in these parts — and serves carb- they run from $25 to $69. free “naked” chile rellenos, or spicy stuffed peppers without breading and covered in cheese. Featuring DALLAS MUSEUM OF ART: More than 130 artifacts 50-year-old recipes from the family of Jorge Veloz plus including previously unseen jewels plus eerie photos some created just for Dallas, Jorge’s serves breakfast all of the boy king’s mummy are on view through May day plus lunch and dinner in the Arts District. 17 at “King Tutankhamun and The Golden Age of the Pharaohs” at the Dallas Museum of Art. The exhibition THE MINT: Finally, Nikki Phinyawatana has brought her features this pectoral with solar-lunar emblems and wildly popular Asian cuisine closer to downtown with scarab found with the Coronation Pectoral. The inlaid a branch on Oak Lawn Avenue. The concept is almost pendant has iconography and decoration on both sides identical to the North Dallas original called Asian Mint, that spell out Tutankhamun’s birth name. A winged but has more emphasis on Bangkok favorites, like spicy scarab with falcon tail and hind legs represents the coconut soup. The crisp modern decor is all white and rising sun. The pendant is made of gold, silver, glass turquoise, and most dishes are under $13. and semiprecious stones. The image of the left eye of Horus, supporting a cres- THE PYRAMID: The Fairmont Hotel’s signature dining cent and disk with royal and divine fi gures, is a symbol room has gotten more than just a facelift — it’s a of the moon.

PHOTO BY KENNETH GARRETT ©2008 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC KENNETH GARRETT ©2008 NATIONAL PHOTO BY whole new restaurant. Floor-to-ceiling glass wine cases — H.H.

14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM

trips to Kansas and Missouri in the company’s die- sel mobile showroom. FIG Prepares for Market Working the Web “It costs $800 a week in gas, so we won’t trav- el that far,” Cooke explained. “They can all buy By Rusty Williamson By Holly Haber through the Web site.” Cooke, who spent about $750 a month to update FASHION INDUSTRY GALLERY, THE FOUR-YEAR-OLD BOU- A GROWING NUMBER OF DALLAS SALES her site until learning how to do it herself, would tique wholesale apparel mart that specializes in contemporary, representatives are wielding the Web to attract like to see the Web replace most of her road work. denim and bridge fashion and accessories, is now fully leased and new accounts, service retailers between markets But, she added, “some lines use so many different looking for room to expand next year. and cut back or eliminate road sales as the cost of fabrics that a customer needs to see it.” Her RV is The full house helps lift spirits among vendors, despite the dif- travel skyrockets. still on the road most weeks between markets. fi cult national economy, according to Shelli Mers, FIG director. “It’s the way of the future,” observed Pam The Web works best for showing tops and bot- “Certainly the jarring events on Wall Street during the last few Kramer of the Ferrell & Kramer showroom, which toms, jeans and lines that use the same fabric con- weeks have made the overall economy a growing source of concern represents bridge and misses’ contemporary re- sistently, such as Scanty’s cotton jersey sleepwear for the entire country,” noted Mers. However, “the costs of coming to sources at FashionCenterDallas. “It’s changed the or Anac’s polyester mesh tops and dresses, reps market in Dallas are considerably lower than in New York and Los way we work after markets and between markets. said. Collections are harder to sell online because Angeles and we believe that this, in addition to our central location, We use it instead of going on the road or mailing the buyer needs to discuss merchandising with will work in our favor as buyers and designers become more budget- pictures and packets.” the rep, if not see it in person. Ferrell & Kramer conscious when making their travel decisions.” While Web sites aren’t intended to replace per- doesn’t even put Michael Kors on its site because Meanwhile, several vendors will be showing at FIG for the fi rst sonal contact, reps agreed that they are perfect for it usually sells out at market. time at the upcoming market, Oct. 23 to Oct. 26. prospecting and promotion, reorders and supply- In many cases, sales reps still review orders Notable newcomers include Michael Stars accessories at Lerner ing line sheets to buyers who may have skipped a on the phone personally with buyers who have re- et Cie; Testament, Sophia Golightly and Zoa at Pam Martin & Co.; market or a line. viewed the styles online. Dear Cashmere at Work in Progress; Mini Fine children’s wear at

“It’s been awesome and has FROM “The Web site is a place for Sq Foot Gallery, and men’s wear collections from Chip & Pepper, ER T T E increased our business a lot — L them to go and get more infor- James Perse and Lacoste at Hatch, which is expanding with more

8 0 0 2 like twofold,” said Marty Leon, Oct. 16, DALLAS mation, so we’re not sending showroom space at gallery 108. who built a Web site in January them a convoluted e-mail,” Epic Showroom, new to FIG in gallery 115, will bow with Staci for his father’s contemporary pointed out Pam Martin, Dao, Phyl Couture, G-lish and Glam Cashmere. Hudson will relocate and denim showroom, Eddie Leon & Associates. whose namesake showroom is at FIG. “People can to gallery 120. “A lot of people are coming up to me and asking look at it at night when they’re not trying to work Located in the vibrant, growing downtown Dallas Arts District, FIG advice on how to do it.” with customers. They would rather do that than has 50 permanent showrooms representing more than 350 lines and the It took only a weekend to create nowshowingdallas. have you come to their stores — not to mention, Shop temporary exhibits on the second fl oor. Designers at Shop, which com using templates he found online, Leon said, and it’s a lot cheaper.” boasts an edgier ambience that often includes a live DJ, often want to he updates it himself. “I didn’t need anything fancy. Most showrooms require passwords to enter test the Dallas market before committing to a permanent space. The main thing is that they can see what I have.” their Web sites to foil copycat competitors and en- About 125 designers will be showing at Shop during the October Other wholesalers, such as Launch, hired a able reps to evaluate buyers. market, including dVb by Victoria Beckham, Laundry, Custo local Web developer, Visual Internet Solutions, “For us, it is all about making sure the right Barcelona, Isabella Fiore, Lauren Conrad, Black Halo, Love Quotes, started two years ago by two former sales reps. people see it — we screen our accounts very Amanda Uprichard, Analili Anne Leman, Apriori, Blue Tattoo, The average Web site costs $1,500 to $2,500, and carefully,” said Rick Drysdale, who was one of Cheryl Dufault/Dufault, Christina Angarola showroom and 12th the rate to update the site is $65 an hour, said the fi rst independent reps to exploit the Web four Street by Cynthia Vincent, among others. Francisco Ramirez, owner. years ago when he hired his son’s college room- “It’s a great sales tool, and well worth the ex- mate to build a site for his FCD showroom, Rick FIG at a Glance • The Shop show, on the second pense for us,” said Allyson Lee Cooke, owner of & Kathy Drysdale/D2. “It’s great for opening new The October FIG show runs Oct. 23-26. fl oor, includes approximately 125 Launch contemporary showrooms at FCD and accounts and reorders. We have some people who • SHOW HOURS contemporary lines that do not have Fashion Industry Gallery. buy all the time online, but in my mind, it will Thursday, Oct. 23-Saturday, Oct. 25: permanent showrooms in the city. Launchshowroom.com became critical this never replace what you can do in person. After 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Oct. 23-25: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. spring when the steep jump in gas prices ended all, we’re salespeople.” Sunday, Oct. 26: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Oct. 26: 9 a.m.-3 p.m. WWD_1014_DallasMarketCenter.ai 10/15/2008 7:31:50 AM 16 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM

In the midst of the meltdown in global stock markets, the International TheWWDList Monetary Fund last week released its October 2008 World Economic Outlook, which stated that “global growth is projected to slow substantially in 2008, and a modest recovery would only begin later in 2009.” The report took note of still-high energy and other commodity prices, along with the subprime mortgage collapse, as factors that are slamming advanced economies and weakening emerging ones. So, as fears grow of a worldwide recession, which of the largest economies are still expected to see gross domestic product Growth in Numbers growth? WWD analyzed the IMF’s 185-member countries and ranked the largest by their forecast 2009 GDP growth rates. Below, a look at projections The world’s largest economies ranked by their projected GDP of who’s growing and who’s slowing next year. — Cecily Hall growth rates for 2009.

CHINA 2009 GDP growth projection: 9.25 percent According to the IMF’s World Economic Outlook update, in the short term, more weakness is expected for China in response to slowing demand from advanced economies for its products and growing strains in regional fi nancial markets. Yi Gang, governor of the Fund for the People’s Republic of China, noted at the IMF’s joint annual discussion on Monday, “Overall, the fundamentals of the Chinese economy are solid and resilient. With the 1 global economic slowdown, it is important that China maintains its stable and relatively rapid growth.” In 2009, China’s GDP is expected to be $4.8 trillion. The growth is good news for luxury goods brands, which continue to bank on China as a bright spot amid the gloom elsewhere.

INDIA 6.938 percent In India, growth in the second quarter slowed to about 8 percent on the back of weakening investment, while private consumption and export growth held up well. The country’s 2009 GDP is forecast at $1.35 trillion. “India has grown by leaps and bounds in recent years and is emerging as a major world economic power….The economy has surged in this decade,” noted Raghuram G. Rajan, a professor of fi nance at the University of 2 Chicago’s Graduate School of Business, in a report to the IMF in September. While India continues to lag China and Russia in the retail and luxury stakes, more fi rms are rushing in. Earlier this week, both Giorgio and Diesel unveiled joint ventures to open stores in the subcontinent.

RUSSIA 5.5 percent Russia, a country with a GDP of $2 trillion, has been booming on the back of strong oil and natural gas prices. But growth is set to weaken appreciably in 2009, refl ecting slowing world demand and tightening fi nancial conditions. Poul Thomsen, deputy director of the IMF’s European department, said after a September visit to the country, “The downturn in Russian fi nancial markets will cause some weakening in GDP growth, but 3 Russia is well positioned to avoid a sharp and lasting reduction in growth.” Still, a slowdown will unnerve major luxury and fashion brands, which have seen substantial growth from Russian consumers, both domestically and as tourists in cities such as London and New York.

BRAZIL 3.5 percent Brazil is Latin America’s largest economy — the country’s 2009 GDP is expected to reach $1.59 trillion. “As in other parts of the world, Latin American economies are facing an awkward combination of slowing activity, more diffi cult external conditions and still-high infl ation,” noted the update. According 4 to a study released earlier this year from the World Competitiveness Yearbook and Swiss-based business school IMD, Brazil’s economy has become more competitive, largely due to a jump in business effi ciency. And more and more brands are noticing the potential: As reported in WWD Monday, Gucci will open its fi rst store in South America at the Iguatemi São Paulo mall in November, joining the likes of Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Marc Jacobs and Burberry.

CANADA 1.174 percent IMF’s update pointed out that in Canada, economic activity has slowed sharply since mid-2007, and growth is projected to slow even further this year, before picking back up in 2009. “Although the resource-intensive sectors have benefi ted from high commodity prices, the lagged effect of past real appreciation of the Canadian dollar, together with the U.S. slowdown, has hit manufacturing hard,” noted the update. The country’s forecast 5 2009 GDP is $1.57 trillion. On Tuesday, Canadian prime minister Stephen Harper and his Conservative Party won more seats in Parliament, but not enough to claim a majority.

JAPAN 0.465 percent Its 2009 GDP is forecasted at $4.8 trillion, and there have been concerns for months the country was once again entering a recession. On the retail front, Japan has seen substantial consolidation in recent years. The latest came last week, when Takashimaya Co. and H20 Retailing Corp. said they would form a strategic alliance and merge within three years. “Japan has experienced a much larger decline in its terms of trade in past years than 6 other major advanced economies,” said the update. Recent indicators point to growing weakness ahead: “Slowing external demand from the U.S. and Western Europe, rising input costs and diminishing profi t expectations are weighing on corporate sentiment and companies’ investment plans.”

FRANCE 0.152 percent The near-term outlook for GDP growth is relatively weak and it may take some time before growth returns to the country’s potential, said the update. Peer Steinbrück, Germany’s minister of fi nance, noted on Oct. 11, “The balance of risks is tilted to the downside, mainly due to external factors and the continued stress on fi nancial markets. However, the EU economies are generally better equipped than in the past to weather the economic downturn 7 due to reforms carried out in the past and largely healthy balance sheets.” Major publicly held companies in the fashion and retail worlds include Carrefour Group, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, PPR and L’Oréal Group. They contribute to France’s 2009 GDP, forecast to be $3 trillion.

UNITED STATES 0.055 percent The U.S.’ GDP may be the largest in the world ($14.57 trillion for 2009), but expected growth is almost fl at for next year. Forward-looking indicators — like consumer and business confi dence and the negative impact on credit of recent fi nancial market disruptions — suggest the economy is likely to contract in the current quarter and into early 2009. “But two sources of resilience — the boom in net exports, combined with the many U.S. fi rms 8 that have remained healthy — should help to get the country back on track in the near future,” noted the update. On the retail front, companies see an extremely tough holiday period ahead, and many expect little rebound in consumer spending until late next year or early 2010. GERMANY -0.002 percent With a 2009 projected GDP of $3.78 trillion, the update reported that Western Europe is being hit by major shocks that are weakening economic activity, notably extraordinary fi nancial stress. The update noted, “Relative to 2007, oil prices are some 40 percent higher in euro terms and, together with surging food prices, have squeezed already sluggish consumption growth.” Germany is Europe’s largest single economy, and retailers 9 there have struggled for the last 18 months as consumers have focused on value. For example, Arcandor AG has seen its stock price dive as its department store division Karstadt has fallen into the red. -0.128 percent In the U.K., economic growth is being slowed by a number of factors, initially by rising oil prices, but now also increasingly by tightening fi nancial conditions. British Prime Minister Gordon Brown was the fi rst to decide to inject funds directly into major banks, a strategy since adopted by other European countries, Australia and the U.S. The country’s GDP is forecast at $2.73 trillion for 2009. Retailing remains tough in Britain and the 10 fi nancial crisis has seriously impacted Icelandic investment fi rm Baugur Group, owner of such chains as , Whistles, Principles and Karen Millen. Sir , owner of Topshop, is in talks regarding some of the company’s debt and gaining control of Baugur’s fashion chains.

SOURCE: INTERNATIONAL MONETARY FUND, WORLD ECONOMIC OUTLOOK DATABASE, OCTOBER 2008; FIGURES PROVIDED BY THE IMG ARE 2009 GDP ANNUAL PERCENT CHANGE GROWTH PROJECTIONS; GDP FIGURES SHOWN ARE IN U.S. DOLLARS AT CURRENT PRICES AND ARE 2009 FORECASTS WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 17 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. More Bad News Sinks Retail Shares Continued from page one sales and work down inventories, dis- erations, dropped 16.8 percent to $22.41; sults, and sales slightly below plan. Fears of just how far shoppers will counting is expected to accelerate as the New York & Company Inc., 13.4 per- One department store manager of pull back in the run-up to holiday com- holiday season approaches and be even cent to $3.29; Nordstrom, 12.4 percent a location in an upscale mall near bined with the fresh signs that consumer more intense than last year, according to to $16.54, and J. Crew, 11.3 percent to Washington said business slumped as activity fell off a cliff last month to drive retail sources. $18.50. much as 12 percent to 15 percent in retail shares down a record-breaking 8.4 During his presentation at the Argyle Coach Inc. was down 15.7 percent to September. In Chicago, discount stores percent Wednesday. Executive Forum for retail and consum- $16.23; Liz Claiborne Inc., 15.3 percent saw small sales gains, but apparel retail- The fall is the second record decline er products executives at the New York to $9.96; Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., 14.3 ers reported declines. An apparel re- in as many weeks as the Standard & Athletic Club Wednesday, Saks’ Sadove percent to $44.19; Nike Inc., 11.8 percent tailer in Minnesota said slow mall traffi c Poor’s Retail Index dropped 24.09 points stressed the need for inventory control to $50.36, and Kenneth Cole Productions hampered sales. to end at 263.01. The index, which was if aged merchandise is to be cleared out Inc., 10.2 percent to $10.32. Discount stores in Philadelphia have recalibrated in mid-2002, has registered and fresh goods brought in to keep fash- Meanwhile, anecdotal reports about seen some increases in traffi c and sales, its top six declines since the banking and ion customers coming back. He noted economic activity indicated steep de- but retailers selling luxury and higher economic crisis kicked into high gear that fall was planned six to nine months clines in discretionary spending in most ticket items saw a decline. Boston mer- last month. ago, when business wasn’t as bad. regions of the country in September, ac- chants said consumers were increas- The Dow Jones Industrial Average He also said international tourism cording to the Federal Reserve Board’s ingly looking for price deals, sometimes dropped only slightly less — 7.9 percent, was slowing down and cited a “bifurca- Beige Book report. preferring private label items, and sev- or 733.08 points, to 8,577.91 — a fall of tion” in selling, with special and some- Consumer spending decreased eral retailers said they had initiated a more than a quarter since the end of times high-price merchandise checking in most of the districts tracked in “soft hiring freeze.” Others said they August. The declines in the Dow over out and basics more apt to linger. With the report, including Philadelphia, recently reduced or planned to reduce the last two days almost wiped out all the the stock market going through dramat- Cleveland, Richmond, Atlanta, Chicago, employee head counts. gains the index made in its record-setting ic swings, “the consumer starts to get Minneapolis and Kansas City. San “The holidays are going to be ugly,” spurt on Monday. frozen,” Sadove said, adding he’s opti- Francisco and Dallas reported slug- said one Philadelphia retailer. And the more data that becomes mistic the government bailout is “going gish sales in September. New York and — With contributions from Liza Casabona available, the worse the news appears to go a long way to easing how a con- Boston both indicated mixed-sales re- and Arnold J. Karr to get for increasingly beleaguered re- sumer thinks.” tailers. Sales at specialty apparel stores Still, based on retail weakness, Kate fell 2.3 percent in September compared McShane, equity analyst at Citi, reduced with August, and department store sales her earnings estimates and target prices declined 1.5 percent, the Commerce on a group of six apparel producers — 10 BEST PERFORMERS Department reported. Compared with Liz Claiborne, Phillips-Van Heusen, Polo September 2007, specialty store sales Ralph Lauren, Under Armour, VF Corp. DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT slid 0.4 percent to $18.8 billion and de- and Quiksilver. VF is the only vendor partment store sales dropped 5.3 per- stock the analyst rates as a “buy.” HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE cent to $16.5 billion. Sales in September “Given last week’s disappointing declined in every retail category com- September same-store sales results and pared with August, with the exception reduced forecasts from several major de- 0.93 0.82 Safi lo * (SFL:MI) 7.0 3832290 0.90 +11.25 of gas stations and health and personal partment stores, including Macy’s Inc., care stores. J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and 12.12 11.55 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 3023 12.00 +3.54 There were no signs of holiday cheer Saks, we expect increased risk to manu- to lift spirits or stocks. In conjunction facturers with higher department store with BIGresearch, NRF said Wednesday exposure,” McShane said. 6.16 4.67 General Growth (GGP) 22.7 11956347 5.63 +3.30 that consumers would spend $832.36 “We still think there is risk to top- on average for gifts, merely 1.9 percent line expectations in [the second half] 0.98 0.80 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 10.4 104407 0.85 +2.41 more than the $816.69 spent last year, from possible order cancellations, when the gift purchasing rose 3.1 per- which will also result in expense de- 0.60 0.60 Fredericks of Hollywood (FOH) - 2000 0.60 +1.69 cent. This represents the lowest increase leveraging,” McShane said. “According in planned consumer spending since the to industry contacts, retailers have al- 3.95 3.13 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 2800 3.13 +1.62 survey began in 2002. ready slowed down and pushed back or- However, NRF is sticking to its holi- ders, which could easily turn into order day sales forecast of a 2.2 percent gain to cancellations.” 2.40 2.27 Bluefl y (BFLY) - 900 2.35 +1.29 $470.4 billion. Additionally, Liz Claiborne’s stock NRF stated that some consumers was downgraded to “sell” from “hold” 36.69 35.00 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 14.0 21025 35.65 +0.03 might be holding back on self-purchas- by Marie Driscoll, equity analyst at ing to take advantage of holiday pricing. Standard & Poor’s. 70.00 67.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) 220.4 36250 69.00 -0.36 Also, expecting that retailers will be tak- Shares of Jones dropped 29.7 percent ing markdowns earlier this year, 40.2 per- after the fi rm warned that its adjusted 1.84 1.77 Ashworth (ASHW) - 953342 1.81 -1.09 cent of consumers will start their holiday 2008 earnings would range from 93 cents shopping before Halloween. to 98 cents a share, down from the $1.20 Spending is expected to be particu- to $1.35 previously expected and the larly weak among young adults, as 18- to $1.26 earned a year ago. The stock closed 24-year-olds plan to spend $50 less on down $4.01 to $9.51. 10 WORST PERFORMERS gifts than a year ago. The survey polled Specialty retailer Charming Shoppes 8,117 consumers and was conducted Sept. Inc. was down even further, sinking 37.2 30 to Oct. 7. percent to $1.84. DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT With neither a hot trend nor an eco- Retailers didn’t fare much better, with nomic recovery in sight, retailers this Macy’s seeing a 17.5 percent stock drop to HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE week have unleashed a wave of pro- $8.66. Moody’s Investors Service changed motions to lure shoppers back to the its outlook on Macy’s debt to “negative” stores. from “stable,” refl ecting the retailer’s 2.90 1.84 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 4415410 1.84 -37.20 “Given where the world is now, it’s warning that earnings this year would likely to become more promotional over range from $1.30 to $1.50 a diluted share 11.05 9.26 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 11605054 9.51 -29.66 the holiday season,” said Saks Inc. chair- rather than the $1.70 to $1.85 previously man and chief executive offi cer Stephen projected. The ratings service currently 5.00 2.20 Hampshire (HAMP) - 1100 4.00 -20.79 I. Sadove. ranks Macy’s debt at Baa3, a medium- Saks Fifth Avenue anniversaried its grade rating. 11.86 9.23 CBL (CBL) 16.6 2141170 9.52 -17.86 “friends and family” promotion by ex- “Should operating performance tending it to a greater audience. J. Crew decline by more than the company ex- 10.45 8.59 Macy’s (M) 5.9 17904642 8.66 -17.52 sent out an e-mail offering an extra 20 pects, then — barring other changes in percent off merchandise already on sale the company’s capital structure or cash through Saturday and Henri Bendel sent flow expectations — debt protection 40.47 32.68 Macerich (MAC) 17.6 3340117 33.82 -17.47 an invitation to customers earlier this measures could weaken further and be month inviting them to “enjoy 25 per- more appropriate for a lower, non-in- 35.97 29.62 Taubman (TCO) 56.3 1266028 30.37 -17.02 cent off on full-price purchases of your vestment grade rating,” Ed Henderson, choice.” It’s good for a single transaction vice president and senior analyst at 25.90 22.41 Guess (GES) 11.7 2102416 22.41 -16.82 on one day only and expires Oct. 31. Moody’s, said. Two-for deals have become ubiqui- Other broadline retailers losing sub- 19.23 16.20 True Religion (TRLG) 13.7 689629 16.30 -16.32 tous. This week, Lord & Taylor ran an stantial ground were Dillard’s Inc., down ad saying “buy more, save more” by get- 15.4 percent to $7.27; Saks, 10.3 per- 1.70 1.50 Tefron (TFR) - 4300 1.50 -16.20 ting 20 percent off on two or more pairs cent to $5.33; Kohl’s Corp., 10.5 percent of boots, while Dress Barn offered 50 to $29.09; Target Corp., 10.2 percent to percent off the purchase of a second $35.72, and Wal-Mart Stores Inc., 8.1 per- * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the sweater. cent to $50.05. London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs In an attempt to generate traffi c and Guess, which also has wholesale op- and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. 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www.EdificeInfo.com Perry Ellis International For subscriptions, 973-616-2929 www.pery.com [email protected] [email protected] call 800-289-0273 or visit our website “Your Flagship Agency for Project Solvers Luxury Brand Careers” www.projectsolvers.com www.COUTURESTAFF.com [email protected] WWD.COM 212.729.7700 212.226.2432 [email protected] WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 19 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS AUDIGIER’S EXIT PLAN: Christian Audigier KARL IN MOTION: Karl Lagerfeld is touching dresses and sportswear at Stanley Korshak in nominees in the 10 categories are Jimmy wants to sell his company and is in talks with down in New York this weekend along with Dallas. “The collection is very diaphanous and Choo, Agent Provocateur and Paul Smith for private equity fi rms, apparel manufacturers Chanel’s Mobile Art. And he has no intention it lends itself to lingerie.” the Designer Brand award, while Christopher in , and European fi rms — more of standing still. The multitasking designer, Reyes plans to keep the line in house. Bailey for Burberry, Paul Smith and Richard than 15 in all — about buying the business, who is also slated to present an award to the “We’ll do lace camis, boy shorts and kimono James have been nominated for the Menswear which encompasses 10 brands and includes Costume Institute’s Harold Koda at Fashion robes in a boudoir sense — not a traditional Designer award. Red Carpet Designer his namesake label and the tattoo-inspired Group International’s annual Night of the satin robe,” he said. Reyes also is designing nominees are Matthew Williamson, line Ed Hardy. Audigier said he may sell the Stars, will be bringing his cameras, too. He four handbags made with crocodile skins from and Stella McCartney. Agyness Deyn, Jourdan brands separately. One thing is certain: He’s said he plans to shoot the and Karl Colombia, where his parents were born and Dunn and are up for model of asking for at Lagerfeld eyewear campaigns in Manhattan where he spent part of his childhood. “We’re the year — which makes it a second time least $700 before heading to Vermont for Chanel and looking at marbleized skins,” he said. In around for Deyn, who scooped up the prize million for the Lagerfeld ready-to-wear shoots. While in business three years, Reyes has 60 accounts. last year. Meanwhile, Pat McGrath, founder and entire company, Vermont, Lagerfeld will discover the 1840 editor in chief of i-D magazine Terry Jones and a high price in house he just bought, and a landscape he ROWLEY’S ART: Cynthia Rowley is presenting photographer Tim Walker have been nominated these straitened said reminds him of his original stomping her work at a show, but don’t expect there for the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion times. With 92 grounds in northern Germany. Then it’s to be a runway. Two of Rowley’s drawings Creator, which acknowledges creativity within licensees, the back to Paris to work on the Paris-Moscow are included in a show at the new Collette the fashion industry. In addition, the BFC Culver City, collection, a luxury pre-fall line for Chanel Blanchard Gallery, which is opening its doors will present one designer with its award for Calif.-based made with the couture ateliers Chanel for the fi rst time tonight. Rowley’s pieces are Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design fi rm expects owns. It is to be presented on Dec. 3 at the part of the “Belle du Jour” exhibition, which on the night of the awards. wholesale sales Theatre du Ranelagh in Paris. “I’m mixing focuses on female artists, and also includes to more than constructivism with folklore and Imperial works by the like of E.V. Day, Mickalene Thomas GOING J.M. WESTON: Out to promote the double to $300 Russia,” he said. Lagerfeld will also don and Langdon Graves. It’s not the only time creative possibilities of its bespoke service, million this a director’s cap for the silent movie he’s she will herself on display, so to speak. On luxury French men’s footwear brand J.M. year from a year producing to open the show, cast with some Monday, Rowley will once again participate in Weston has asked fi ve design talents to ago. Audigier regulars in his entourage, including Lady Celebrity Charades, in aid of Philip Seymour customize their dream shoe, including Frank couldn’t provide Amanda Harlech and model Brad Kroenig. Hoffman’s Labyrinth Theater Company. Others Gehry, Kris Van Assche and Martin Szekely. Christian Audigier estimates Expect a fast-paced, laugh-packed and participating in the competition include David The results, which will be available to order, for the retail loose interpretation of Gabrielle Chanel’s Schwimmer, Edie Falco, Ana Ortiz, Kristen Wiig, will be unveiled in an exhibition dubbed operations, which include 23 stores he owns adventures between 1913 and 1923. Rachel Dratch and Alan Cumming. “Moods” today at the brand’s headquarters on and 42 stores run by franchisees. Having Avenue D’Iéna, ending Nov. 13. Styles include already signed leases for 12 new stores REYES BRANCHING OUT: Look for lingerie in the BRIT AWARDS: The British Fashion Council a triple-soled, platform Derby with playful next year, he said denim veteran Hubert next fall collection by Brian Reyes. “It would be has revealed the nominees for this year’s perforations by Van Assche, and two booties Guez recently joined the company as chief a good thing to expand the brand,” Reyes said Swarovski-sponsored British Fashion Awards, by Gehry, one with a row of buttons curving up executive offi cer. Wednesday during a trunk show of his spring which take place Nov. 25. Among the its side.

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For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE HUMAN RESOURCES Search DIRECTOR A major multi-divisional apparel company hundreds of is seeking a Human Resources Director for their fast paced New York Office. Showrooms & Lofts In this position, this candidate will SALES EXECUTIVE positions in BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS manage the Human Resources functions Great ’New’ Office Space Avail of the company. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 AND SALES ASSISTANT fashion, retail A minimum of 10 years experience Wtd by top Denim mfr. Must have 3- Ann Taylor has approximately 900 stores in the United States and Puerto working in the field of human resources is required preferably with retail and 5 yrs exp working w/ major & mid- and beauty. Rico. Our company is comprised of two distinct brands and four divisions. manufacturing experience. Ann Taylor Stores and LOFT Stores are our brands, while Ann Taylor Factory tier dept stores. Denim background a Responsibilities will include: all levels and LOFT Outlet are channels of our brands in the outlet environment. We of recruitment, employee benefit adminis- plus. Very detail oriented, computer are committed to creating fashionable, emotionally compelling product tration, organizational development, per- literate. Fast paced environment. which address the ever-evolving lifestyles of women. formance management, 401K, employee Showroom /Office for Rent relations/employment law & compliance. Res/sal reqs [email protected] 389 Fifth Ave – 500 sf. / $1500 mon We are reviewing applications for current and future needs in: We are seeking a team player with the Slat walled w/shelves & desks Store Planning & Allocations and Merchandise Planning - All Levels ability to work with all levels of manage- Call Peter: 212-683-1900 ment, who is detail oriented, highly or- DIRECTOR OF SALES These exciting opportunities require: ganized with strong interpersonal and Alexis Bittar, Inc. is looking for a director •Developing planning & allocation strategy and design. communication skills. Excel and word of sales. This department is responsible Showroom to Share computer skills required. 1407 Broadway. Get your own office. •Implementing plans that support the merchandising, marketing and for developing relationships & generating Beautiful. Fully Furnished. financial objectives of the brand. We are a leader in our industry & offer business w/ key direct accounts domestic Contact Mark @ 818.970.3327 competitive salaries & comprehensive & international ranging from department benefits. Email resume with salary history stores to smaller specialty based busi- Please apply directly to: www.anntaylorcareers.com nesses. All candidates must have expe- EOE & subject header; HR & your name to: [email protected] rience w/ sales & new business develop- ment as well as experience in managing Equal Opportunity Employer & motivating a team of account execu- Customer Service Rep tives. The individual we are looking to ASSISTANT DESIGNER We are seeking dynamic Customer hire must be extremely well organized, Leading Sweater Co seeks well organ- confident and charismatic and have a ized creative asst designer to join our Service oriented individuals with great Office/Sample/Pattern Room communication and typing skills needed proven record of sales success in high- 38th Street Btw. 7th&8th Ave. missy team. Must be proficient in color end fashion. Candidates should have at matters PhotoShop/Illustrator computer to work on behalf of our company this New windows & Bamboo flooring. Service Representative will earn up to PROD’N ASSISTS & COORDS least 7 - 10 years experience as a sales Below market value. software creating tech detail packages. director for fashion based company. Strong sketching, specing & layout $3000 monthly any job experience * Prod’n Assist-Sweaters/Knits $40-45K Contact Bill: 917-903-1069 needed. E-mail if interested at: * Prod’n Assist/Spec Tech $40K Send resume w/ salary requirements to: skills a must. Minimum 1-2 years fash- [email protected] ion industry experience. Send [email protected] Runway Designer [email protected] or 212-947-3400 resume to: [email protected] Sales Agent Well established trim company looking for sreious well connected salesperson Design and Merchandising Assistant PRODUCTION COORDINATOR to carry button line in New York an Midtown importer of junior needs Produc- surrounding area. Please fax resume ASST DESIGNER - JR’s Immediate opportunity for skilled and tion Coordinator, MUST have garment Leading Sweater Co seeks well organ- detail-oriented assistant at this busy to 514-745-8710 Attn: Carol or John. industry experience, speak & write E-mail to: [email protected] ized creative asst designer to join our and successful women’s wear manu- Chinese plus. Send resume to: Junior team. Must be proficient in col- facturer; Responsibilities: fabric/trim [email protected] or matters, Photoshop/Illustrator com- sourcing with domestic vendors, prod- SALES EXECUTIVE puter software creating tech detail uct development with Asia offices, Mileage / Speed Control, a division of packages. Strong sketching, specing & general merchandising tasks, includ- All Fashions Clothing Inc. seeks a highly layout skills a must. Minimum 1-2 ing thorough follow-up, recoloring, PRODUCTION /SOURCING.....TO $105K ambitious sales executive. The ideal years fashion industry experience. refabricating. Minimum 3 years relat- Intimates a Must! Far East candidate must have a min. of 5 yrs CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Sent resume to: [email protected] ed industry exp. Email resumes to: Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 sales exp. w/in the women’s tops & U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 [email protected] [email protected] dresses apparel industry. An outstand- www.sanodesignservices.com www.srisearch.com ing track record along w/ est’d relation- ships w/ department, mid-tier, & specialty Bookkeeper F/C - FT/PT Financial Controller stores is req’d. Opportunity for growth. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Midtown importer seeks exp’d Book- Leading lingerie manufacturer seeks Fax or E-mail resumes to: 212-764-7146 keeper. Must have strong skills & ability financial controller. Technical Design Asst [email protected] PRODUCTIONS to multi-task. [email protected] All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Responsibilities include GL, payroll, Technical Design Assistant needed for ALSO NEED AN EXP’D SALES ASST Call Sherry 212-719-0622. AP, and month end financial report- Designer Contemporary label. Duties ing. Must be detail oriented, with to include preparing initial tech paks SEVEN7 JEANS/KITSON excellent organization and follow-up. including specs and sketches. Follow Major domestic & int’l apparel co located PATTERNS, SAMPLES, CAD ARTIST PT & FT 5+ yrs. apparel industry experience a up with fittings required. Candidates in NYC seeks energetic Sales Exec to Growing home tex co seeking team must, bachelor’s degree in finance should have a design background with drive existing & pioneering new busi- PRODUCTIONS player, responsible. 3 years exp. Must and/or accounting preferred. Please strong technical skills/patternmaking nesses. Must have 3-5 years exp in the Full service shop to the trade. be proficient with CAD, Photoshop & Ned email resume with salary history to knowledge. 1-3 years experience required. industry. Must have references. Please Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. graphics. Fax resume to: 212-889-3283 [email protected] Contact: [email protected] email: [email protected] 20 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 16, 2008 WWD.COM

Jessica Alba in Dolce & Gabbana.

Olivia Thirlby in and a custom IreneIrene NeuwirthNeuwirth Agyness Deyn with necklace. inin customcustom RichardRichard Chai.Chai. Party City TAXIS AND TOWN CARS WERE IN HIGH DEMAND TUESDAY NIGHT as the social set shuttled uptown and down. The fi rst stop for many was a cocktail party for the 10 fi nalists of the 2008 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, hosted by Diane von Furstenberg, Anna Wintour and L’Oréal’s Carol Hamilton, where Debra Messing in Diane von each designer’s custom creation was modeled by a celebrity date. Alexander Furstenberg with Becki Newton Wang arrived to Wintour’s West Village home with his friend Zoë Kravitz. “He inin PortsPorts 1961.1961. didn’t bring me a corsage,” she complained. “I offered to stop at a corner deli,” he protested. Meanwhile, Vena Cava’s Sophie Buhai and Lisa Maycock came with ; Jason Wu had been paired with Leighton Meester; Olivia Thirlby accompanied Irene Neuwirth, and Richard Chai found himself in a stylish love triangle with Coco Rocha and Jamie Johnson, both in his designs. By the end of the evening, Lake Bell and her date, shoe designer Alejandro Ingelmo, were still in love in spite of the fact that she caught him taking Rocha’s digits. “It’s OK. We have an open relationship,” she sighed. The next stop was Saks Fifth Avenue’s Key to the Cure fete at Top of the Rock. There, Samantha Ronson spun for guests, including her girlfriend Lindsay Lohan, co-hosts Jane Krakowski and Blythe Danner, Lisa Airan, John Tisch and Fabiola Beracasa. Becki Newton and Debra Messing wandered the party together. Newton found her friend made an easy shield for the Champagne spill on the front of her dress. Diane von Furstenberg in a Carlos Luckily, the “Ugly Betty” star had a change of clothes in the car, so by the time she Falchi glove at her studio. arrived to von Furstenberg’s studio for a party marking the launch of the new Wonder Woman-inspired clothing collection, Newton had swapped her Ports 1961 for DVF. The designer herself signed copies of her limited edition comic books (a portion of the evening’s sales benefi ted the women’s charity Vital Voices) before hopping a jet to Europe and then on to Tokyo to open a store. Also there were Ziyi Zhang, Lindsay Price and Rachel Roy, while DVF employee and reality star Whitney Port was trailed by a TV crew for her “Hills” spin-off “The City.” Earlier on Tuesday, French jeweler Mauboussin celebrated its new Madison Avenue fl agship with a lunch at Christie’s hosted by Nathalie Kaplan and attended by Jennifer Creel, Debbie Bancroft, Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti and Adrienne Vittadini. Von Furstenberg has had a busy week. On Monday, she opened up her studio to Kim Hastreiter, the Paper magazine editor and author of a book on Geoffrey Beene, along with , Isabel and Ruben Toledo and Agnes Gund. Also on Monday, Madonna followed up a four-night stint at Madison Square Garden with a premiere for her movie “Filth and Wisdom.” Naomi Watts in Dolce & Gabbana Thrown by the Cinema Society and Dolce & Gabbana at the Sunshine and Liev Schreiber. Cinema, the screening and after party at the new Thompson LES attracted EICHNER; STING BY TIM JENKINS EICHNER; STING BY Jessica Alba, Jerry Seinfeld, Lohan, Marc Jacobs, America Ferrera, Naomi Watts and Liev Schreiber. Nonetheless, the new director was none too pleased by the few empty seats in the auditorium (“I’m used to much bigger crowds than this, that’s all I have to say,” she grumbled) and then launched into a speech in which she took after anyone who might have given her a nasty review. Lake Bell in “There’s a certain resentment when people do one thing well and then try Thakoon and to do something else,” she said. “And everybody gets a bug up their ass. But custom Alejandro that’s their f--king problem.” Ingelmo shoes. As for her impending divorce from Guy Ritchie, confi rmed Wednesday, it didn’t come up — reporters were told beforehand not to ask her personal questions. In London the same night, fans and friends of the illustrator Alan Aldridge, who’s best known for the psychedelic artwork he created for The Beatles, fl ocked to an exhibition of his work at the Design Museum, sponsored by H.Stern. Aldridge’s daughter, Saffron Aldridge, hosted the event, which drew guests Princess Marie Chantal of Greece, Pia Getty, Jasmine Guinness, Jade Parfi tt, the artist’s daughter Lily Aldridge and Sting. Kristen McMenamy Miles Leighton Meester Model , who is married to Aldridge’s son , was taken with the inin customcustom JasonJason WuWu pieces on display. “I’d love to have a room like this, maybe one of my kids’ rooms,” with the designer. she said. “And hey — he’s my father-in-law, maybe he could do it for free.”

Samantha Ronson ▲ Lindsay Price in Hervé Léger.

Isabel Toledo, Narciso Madonna in Rodriguez and Ruben Toledo. Dolce & Gabbana. CFDA/VOGUE AND DVF PARTIES AND RODRIGUEZ/TOLEDO PHOTOS BY SCOTT RUDD; KEY TO THE CURE AND “FILTH AND WISDOM” PREMIERE BY STEVE AND WISDOM” PREMIERE BY SCOTT RUDD; KEY TO THE CURE AND “FILTH AND RODRIGUEZ/TOLEDO PHOTOS BY CFDA/VOGUE AND DVF PARTIES