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Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 4, 2007 • $2.00 List WWDTHURSDAY treets Sportswear Floral Arrangement PARIS — Dries Van Noten has always loved prints, but for spring he went crazy for them, pushing himself to use them in new ways and adding sterling silver and semiprecious stones. Here, one of his bold combinations: a top and pants in contrasting patterns of irises and other blooms, worn with chunky jewelry. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 8. Arnault Grows Empire: Luxury Titan Investing In Real Estate, Internet By Miles Socha PARIS — It’s hardly his spending spree of the late Nineties, but Bernard Arnault remains one of the industry’s most active, savvy and unpredictable investors. And even as the luxury titan and chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton zeroes in on his latest conquest, the French financial daily Les Echos, he has teams of advisers hunting on a worldwide basis for other attractive places to park his money. According to sources, the richest man in France and the seventh wealthiest in the world — with a fortune estimated See Arnault’s, Page9 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear ™ PARIS COLLECTIONS A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld stuck to real clothes for real women, while on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 4 Jean Paul Gaultier created an ode to “The Pirates of the Caribbean.” FALL HARVEST GENERAL A Bounty of Sweater Styles Explode at Retail It’s hardly his spending spree of the late Nineties, but Bernard Arnault 1 remains one of the industry’s most active and unpredictable investors. Rtw and accessories rank as Hermès’ second-largest business and the If a woman says she can't find a sweater she from 15 percent in 2001, according to data from NPD 3 house wants to build the category to 30 percent of sales in fi ve years. likes this fall, it’ll be like a kid walking into Willy Fashionworld’s AccuPanel. Synthetics, natural fibers Wonka's chocolate factory and declaring there is and other fiber blends account for the remainder. DENIM: Girbaud aims to reclaim lost ground in the U.S. with the spring nothing for her. It’s just not possible. Most women (70%) avoid wool because they find 12 launch of premium denim brand Le Jean de Marithé + François Girbaud. Women’s sweaters are enjoying a style surge like it uncomfortable, Monitor stats reveal. Another 19 EYE: Talking with actress Tang Wei, who stars in Ang Lee’s new movie, never before. Modern cardigans feature tie, belted percent are allergic to it. And 7 percent don’t like the 20 “Lust, Caution,” in a daring portrayal for her fi rst fi lm role. or cascading fronts. There are garment care involved with it. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 long tunics. Crocheted models. “Plus,” adds Wilt, “cotton doesn’t And sleeve styles deserve an pill like some wools do and that shows a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. award category all their own – garment’s age faster.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. kimono, balloon and bell sleeves Retailers appreciate cotton sweaters WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT because they have a long shelf life. ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. among them. VOLUME 194, NO. 72. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one “When the market opened six “When stores stock angora, there additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and months ago, there was so much comes a time when they have to mark three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by freshness, we felt this was an it down,” Banks says. “With cotton, Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive opportunity to reach a customer there’s no major cut-off time.” Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail with something she didn’t already Sweaters account for 7 percent of Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return own,” says Lori Holliday Banks, women’s apparel purchases (excluding undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA senior fashion analyst, The Tobe outerwear, suiting and socks), 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Report. “She will have choices and according to NPD data. Purchases are INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new want a 7/8-length belted wrap, a up 1 percent for the first six months of subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production button-front cardigan, a tunic, a 2007 compared to year-ago figures. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other sweater jacket. Women can create a At the Heidi Boutique, located Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list whole wardrobe of knits.” “Whether they’re the junior in the exclusive Troon North area available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. At Macy’s West, where cotton of Scottsdale, AZ, owner Heidi If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA customer, the tailored or 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, sweaters are often more climate- sophisticated customer—there’s Hilf O’Brien’s sweater assortment OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, right than others, the style variety includes sleeveless, belted, tunic BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED something for everybody.” MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR is definitely appealing, says Tifani and dress styles. — Tifani Wilt, CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Wilt, women’s fashion director. Macy’s West “Customers in Arizona love cotton “Whether they’re the junior sweaters because the fiber breathes in A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. customer, the tailored or the hot weather here,” she says. sophisticated customer—there's something for Breathability is important for the Coldwater everybody,” Wilt says. “What works best for us is Creek customers, too. “It’s essential due to changes the ‘wear now’ product. And even though we're our customer is experiencing both through global In Brief just getting into our best sweater weather, it's warming and personally through internal body still very hot. So cotton sweaters offer something changes,” Smith-Fitzgerald says. ● VALUE CITY STORES: Retail Ventures Inc. on Wednesday said trend-right and climate-correct.” Cotton and cotton-blended with silk or cashmere is its subsidiary Value City Department Stores has signed a definitive Coldwater Creeks Sandra Smith-Fitzgerald, vice- light enough to wear year round. Smith-Fitzgerald says. agreement to assign or sublease up to 24 locations to Burlington president of product “And the piece can be Coat Factory. The move is part of RVI’s previously revealed review styled in many ways, of strategic alternatives to generate value for shareholders. The 24 development, Better Quality Garments Made with Natural Fibers says sweaters are allowing versatility in stores will continue to operate through the holiday season, but will her wardrobe.” close by the end of March 2008. RVI said the number of stores is absolutely taking Female16-24 25-34 35-55 56-70 on a whole new Coldwater Creek subject to change, and proceeds from the assignment and sublease importance this Agree 51% 46% 49% 54% 58% is selling cardigans of the stores will be used to reduce Value City’s debt. Disagree 39% 43% 39% 38% 32% season. and pullovers, both ● TARGET IS TARGETED: A federal district court judge in San “Their versatility solid and marled Francisco on Tuesday gave class-action status to plaintiffs in a is like no other with novelty details. lawsuit filed against Target Corp. for not making its Web site category: from the weights — fine gauge for tops to At CoCo Pari, a Red Bank, NJ, boutique, “The accessible to vision-impaired people. The initial lawsuit was heavier gauge for coat replacements — to the yarn to long, belted cardigans are being worn almost like a filed by the National Federation of the Blind, the National the texture created by stitch interest, and the ability sweater coat. That will continue into winter,” says Federation of the Blind of California and Bruce Sexton. It al- to do prints and intarsias,” she says. “Add all that owner Kimberly Landau. leged target.com lacks technological features that can read to the style possibilities and it equals an emotional, Coco Pari carries Diane Von Furstenberg fitted navigation links aloud, allowing a blind user of the site to navi- versatile category for the customer.” cotton basics. “I’m finding this season, when gate using a keyboard instead of a mouse. The complaint was originally filed in the Superior Court of California in February That so many of fall’s sweaters are made from people are wearing a sweater, it's coming down to 2006, but was moved to the federal court in March 2006. Target cotton and cotton blends is important, as the being more body conscious.” could not be reached for comment. Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ finds the Wilt points to “great things” from Cable & majority of women (51%) believe better quality Gauge, Nine West and – a new Macy's resource ● CLUB 21 GOES GREEN: As part of its 35th anniversary this garments are made of natural fibers. As women get – Grace. “Grace is more contemporary. It has shorter year, Club 21 is putting a focus on the environment for its fund- older, that number gets even bigger; of those aged sleeve lengths, longer cardigans, big buttons – design raising and customer education efforts. The Christina Ong- 35-55, 54 percent associate quality with natural details that appeal to contemporary customers.” owned luxury retail company is collaborating with Giorgio fibers compared to 58 percent of women aged 56- She says the category is just starting to see a Armani, Donna Karan, Jil Sander, Marc Jacobs, Marni and Paul 70. Additionally, 60 percent of women are willing trend that will continue beyond winter. “Come Smith for an online charity auction. The designers contrib- to pay more for natural fibers like cotton. early spring, we’ll see lighter weight yarns, lighter uted 35 one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, which they signed to be auctioned off on eBay Oct. 18 to Nov. 4. The sale will benefit Banks says cotton has gained year-round appeal, colors, and knit jacket alternatives.” the Fashion for the Environment initiative, which is devoted “First, because of global warming, and secondly, a Banks concurs. “For spring ‘08, colorful to environmental causes, and proceeds will go to such chari- lot of women don’t want wool — either because cardigans will generate a lot of business.” ties as The Rainforest Foundation in the U.S., Fields in Trust they're allergic to it, or it’s too warm and heavy. This story is one in a series of articles based on find- in the U.K., Wildlife Warriors Worldwide in Australia and The In temperature-controlled environments, like an Thailand Environment Foundation. ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ office or a school, cotton works for more people. tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these People need clothing they can wear for a longer pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it period of time – not just two months of the year. A cotton sweater fills that need.” relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Corrections Cotton and cotton-blend sweaters accounted for and behavior regarding clothing, The photo on page one, Sept. 24, backstage at the Doo.Ri show in 56 percent of all sweater purchases in 2006, while appearance, fashion, fiber selection and New York, was taken by Talaya Centeno. The credit was incorrect. 100% wool was about 6 percent of purchases, down many other timely, relevant subjects. ● ● ● Bagborroworsteal.com launched its vintage category on Monday. The timing of the launch was incorrect in a story on page 2, Monday. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 3 WWD.COM Plaza Suite: An Eclectic Mix of High-End Retail By Sharon Edelson asked them if they would give us the Edwardian Room. That would be great because we’d have a great presence. I don’t know if we’re going to do anything. I think the NEW YORK — The Plaza may not be getting the power luxury retail brands it origi- Plaza is a great, great place. It’s such a signature for New York.” nally envisioned, but the project is amassing a mix of downtown labels, emerging While the Plaza’s location, a prime spot on Fifth Avenue and the corner of 59th Street, European fashion talents and high-end gift and jewelry brands as tenants — as well is an asset, it has posed leasing challenges in terms of distribution issues, since as nearly selling out its inventory of multimillion-dollar condominiums. many of the world’s top luxury brands have their own stores on Fifth Names such as Montblanc, Seize sur Vingt, Kenneth Jay Lane, Jay Avenue or Madison Avenue or are sold at Bergdorf Goodman. Strongwater, Assouline, Manrico, Vertu, Morgenthal Frederics and Nicola said there are four slots for men’s wear and three Caudalie have signed on so far to populate the Plaza’s retail space. or four for women’s. “One of the brands we’re working on The property, which celebrated its 100th anniversary Monday a lease with is Don Eduardo et Donna Rosalia swim- with a party that included an appearance by Paul Anka and a wear, by Deborah Martinelli Bonavia, who designed fi nale of fi reworks that cascaded off the facade, has 160,000 swimwear for Krizia, Kenzo and Roberto Cavalli. square feet of retail space spread over six levels. “The Edwardian Room is 5,000 square feet,” When Elad Properties, which bought the hotel for $675 A rendering of the Nicola said. “It’s substantial. We haven’t had conver- million in 2004 and has poured $400 million into its reno- Plaza retail area. sations with [Malandrino] for some time now. We vation, unveiled the project in January 2006, it said it are in conversations with a couture vendor and a was targeting the likes of Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Lane very large jewelry company about the space.” Crawford, Holt Renfrew and the Italian Luxury Guild for Another large space, 3,500 square feet on the Retail Collection. the concourse level, has not been leased yet. “When I got here, so many people were saying, ‘We L’Eclaireur, which runs several cutting-edge have to go after the big brands,’” said Anthony Nicola, fashion stores in Paris, had expressed interest. general manager of the Plaza Retail Collection. “We’re at “We had talked to them,” Nicola said. “They the crossroads of luxury. We need to go after vendors who had fl own in to look at it and we’re still having are willing to give us a special brand, maybe a downtown conversations with them.” brand that’s not uptown, or brands from Europe. Then this Rachel Roy is said to have a deal at the Plaza whole area becomes a destination.” for what would be the designer’s fi rst store uptown. The majority of retail space will be located on the Grand “We’re interested in it,” said Stefani Zien, sales di- Concourse, which will be an open selling fl oor. Montblanc, rector. “We’re not confi rming anything at this time.” which operates a large store on East 57th Street and the corner According to one source, Donna Karan is consid- of Madison Avenue, will open an outpost where it will feature ering the Plaza, possibly for Urban Zen. A spokeswom- jewelry and pens. Kenneth Jay Lane is designing a special collec- an said Karan is not considering it and the designer’s tion for the Plaza. Seize sur Vingt, the maker of custom suits, shirts business partner for Urban Zen could not be reached. The and cashmere sweaters for men and women with a shop on Elizabeth source said some other big brands have rejected the location, Street here, will also occupy a spot on the concourse. but several European fi rms selling fashion or food that don’t op- Assouline, Manrico, Vertu, Morgenthal Frederics and the Plaza Collection erate yet in the U.S. might decide to enter the U.S. via the Plaza. luxury gift shop will reside on the ground fl oor. The source said the Plaza concept is to market to tourists as well as those “We have 65 percent of the square footage leased, and we’re working on another in the hotel and its condo owners as a late-night place to shop, since most retailers eight or nine leases,” said Nicola. “We’re making very good progress. I think we have along Fifth Avenue close around 7 p.m. “If they market it right, they could drive some it all in focus.” Stores are expected to open in February. late-night traffi c,” the source said. “We were interested in opening a store, but we haven’t signed anything yet,” said Plans for the Plaza Collection call for a bakery and food hall. Warren-Tricomi is open- Bernard Aidan, chief executive offi cer of Catherine Malandrino, which has a store ing a hair salon and Nicola said there will be a shoe spa for shoe and handbag repair. downtown. “We’re investigating. We went to visit the place. It’s a great location. I — With contributions from David Moin

caban and a crocodile trench made from 17 skins, de Seynes said. Gaultier is scheduled to show his spring-summer collection for Hermès on Saturday. Hermès also added two women’s pre-collections this season to feed its sales Hermès Ups Fashion Quotient fl oor and had a “very strong response,” de Seynes said, noting pre-fall arrivals were on racks in June, giving a boost to summer business. By Miles Socha Last year Hermès posted strong sales of lambskin capes and trenchcoats, along with ponchos in fringed cashmere, mink or sable, according to its annual report. PARIS — If you thought clothing was an afterthought or just an image vehicle for Men’s wear has been a particularly explosive business for the fashion house, logging leather goods powerhouse Hermès International, think again. sales gains of between 10 and 15 percent every year to the point where it almost rivals Ready-to-wear and fashion accessories already rank as Hermès’ second-largest women’s wear, Thomas said. business, and the house is gunning to build the category to 30 percent of sales in the Nichanian, a petite brunette who next fi ve years, said Patrick Thomas, chief executive offi cer. launched the category practically from Citing rapid sales growth in belts, fashion jewelry, footwear, leather apparel and scratch 18 years ago, said she attri- men’s wear, the house plans to devote more fl oor space to those categories in its butes the success in men’s to Hermès’ boutiques worldwide as they are built or renovated. conviction to “timeless” design. For example, when the company’s expanded fl agship at 24 Faubourg Saint- “It’s not fashion I do at Hermès; it’s Honoré here opens later this month — making it the largest Hermès store in the clothing,” she said. “It’s the success of world — it will have doubled the space devoted to these categories, more than 3,000 a style.” square feet each for women’s wear and men’s wear. Hermès plans to make men’s prod- The new store in the Midosuji district of Osaka, Japan, which bowed in April, ucts a focus next year in its communica- also boasts a signifi cant space for fashion, indicative of the new priority. tions and store events. Thomas said he’s “Not everyone knows Hermès is also a ready-to-wear company and we have to mulling stand-alone Hermès men’s stores make it known,” Thomas said in an in- to test his conviction that demand is terview, joined by executive vice pres- The Hermès Osaka largely untapped, including in America. ident Guillaume de Seynes and men’s store in Midosuji. “We have a big potential. We should wear designer Veronique Nichanian. be twice as big as we are in the U.S.,” he “For us, ready-to-wear and fashion said of the men’s wear category. The new accessories are essential to show the fl agship on Wall Street in Manhattan is creative part of the company. The idea considered a step in that direction, with is to have a very balanced world.” a strong focus on men’s products. Sales of rtw and fashion accessories Thomas also cited a large potential accounted for 19 percent of group sales for men’s wear in greater China, where last year, rising 1 percent to 294 million luxury spending is still concentrated euros, or $369.4 million at average ex- in male categories. To be sure, Hermès change rates. Leather goods, including has shunned many of the tactics used saddlery, remain the dominant category, by luxury peers, including celebrity

generating 44 percent of Hermès’ sales. MASAO NISHIKAWA OSAKA PHOTOS BY placement and endorsements. As Growth in leather goods is limited Thomas pointed out, in Hermès adver- by production constraints, even though the number of craftsmen at Hermès has tising, “you fi nd the handbag. There is no Sharon Stone. The hero is the object.” vaulted to 1,800 from only about 300 in 1989, Thomas noted. Analysts have often faulted Hermès for slower growth than its luxury competi- In fashion, the arrival three years ago of couturier Jean Paul Gaultier as women’s tors, but Thomas countered that the company has outperformed the sector with designer brought Hermès torrents of press attention, and plenty of new customers, es- consistent profi tability and strong value creation. pecially in the U.S., Thomas said, while acknowledging the designer switch likely scared He stressed that high quality standards are paramount. “The result is our growth off some old-guard customers or those loyal to the previous designer, Martin Margiela. rate is not the same as people who are in masstige, not true luxury,” he said. “We At the same time, Hermès had logistical wobbles in rtw that caused late deliveries, are much more in a business model of value growth rather than volume growth. We denting sell-through and profi tability, but those have largely been remedied, Thomas want to grow better rather than faster.” said, stressing, “Today we are in a position where ladies fashion is growing nicely.” He also countered the stereotype of Hermès being a purveyor of classics. “What Jean Paul has added to the business is giving us more strength in excep- Although the company’s best-selling and most iconic products — the Kelly and tional pieces, and in silks and leather,” de Seynes added, noting leather clothing Birkin bags — are decades old, some 80 percent of its 50,000 stockkeeping units are accounts for some 20 percent of the company’s women’s apparel business. renewed seasonally, Thomas said. These include fashion accessories, which are Among bestsellers of Gaultier’s acclaimed fall-winter collection are a calfskin gaining more square footage in Hermès boutiques, with sales rising in tandem. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 Reality and Theatricality Designers such as Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld stuck to real clothes for real women (for Val, the socialite version), while Jean Paul Gaultier created an over-the-top ode to “The Pirates of the Caribbean.”

Valentino: Perhaps because his Roman extravaganza in July made for one tough act to follow, Valentino chose to bid au revoir to prêt-à- porter in a relatively low-key manner, if you don’t count the Seventies disco music. Still, there were clear markers of the imminent changing of the guard here in Paris this week. Incoming designer Alessandra Facchinetti is in town, apparently getting a feel for the city’s show season. As the audience filled up the seats on Wednesday at the Carrousel du Louvre, Stefano Sassi, chief executive officer of Valentino Fashion Group, introduced himself to some of its key members whom he had not yet met. And Valentino himself referenced the 40th shindig, recoloring its circular logo in vibrant brights for both the circular flooring at the end of the runway and for the backdrop wheel that rotated as if spun by an invisible Vanna White. The collection proved savvy, a greatest- hits distillation that indicated why Valentino has been able to stay relevant for so long. Thus, it ranged, as has his life’s work, from chic to chichi to over-the-top glam. He presented in groups, with attention given to the various themes he’s loved and reworked over the years: white, polkadots, ruffl es, suitings and yes, Valentino red. Structure came in trim suits, color-blocked coat-and-dress combos and a white Jackie O dress with passementerie work. There were gentle dresses that fl uttered this way and that, and a whole host of shirred, draped and frilled gowns for those big Valentino evenings that are a way of life for Val gals. The designer also offered a look or two Valentino for the young set with whom he has found such favor in recent years. Case in point: an utterly charming pastel candy-striped sequin T-shirt dress. Now that’s going out in style — smart style.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Valentino Jean Paul Gaultier WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 5 WWD.COM

Jean Paul Gaultier: A recent U.K. poll declared Johnny Depp’s Captain Jack Sparrow of “The Pirates of the Caribbean” trilogy the nation’s favorite movie character of all time. As such, London Fashion Week would’ve been thrilled to see Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring collection — not just a send-up but a theatrical ode to “Pirates” that could’ve put him in the running for on-set costumer. In Paris, Gaultier camped it up to the hilt, decking out his girls in eye patches and huge pirate hats worn over fringed scarves and beanies. They carried real smoking pipes and toted umbrellas with pistol handles to the tune of a swashbuckling soundtrack. All that was missing was the proverbial parrot on the shoulder. Held captive among the costumery were his real-world signatures — Irish lace dresses; sharply tailored jackets, this time sleeveless, some with fringed epaulets and peplumed rears, and his nautical Frenchy stripes on lace-up shirts and fl ouncy, chiffon skirts that rode low on the hips for a seafaring strumpet effect. Still, it was hard to get past all the pirate regalia. And by the time the marine-print suits took their stroll, it seemed Gaultier had simply gone overboard. But then a band of beautiful brides in exquisite white ensembles — crocheted lace dresses, a swimsuit embroidered with mother-of-pearl and jumpsuits and skirts made of layers and layers of dramatic tulle — came to the rescue.

Karl Lagerfeld PARIS spring ’08

Jean Paul Gaultier

Karl Lagerfeld Karl Lagerfeld PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

Karl Lagerfeld: Everything — the invitation, the rainbow-striped runway, the neon-lit backdrop — said color, color, color. But given the source, one should have known to expect the unexpected. Karl Lagerfeld is the master of the mixed message, among other distinctions, and so the first looks out offered graphic compilations of the positive-negative variety. “I have a weakness for black and white,” he said after the show. So out came a bounty of such looks in a something-for-everyone range, from an aspiring dominatrix type who likes to fi nish off a shirt and pants look with a no-nonsense harness, to a schoolgirl with an attitude in a terrifi c tented shirtdress with a black bow at the neck. That shirt motif proved signifi cant throughout in numerous variations, as did tailoring in svelte jackets, often over sexy, shiny stretches of jersey. Of course, Lagerfeld can hold two fashion thoughts simultaneously, so he did indeed work in some color, and not only in bright, spiky plastic accessories. Doing his part for the transparency trend, he transformed body-hugging brights from sassy to sultry under veilings of black. For girls who like their layering on the light — and racy — side, he put see-through tulle jeans under all kinds of looks, and once or twice, he peekabooed well past the naughty threshold. Still, less overt types needn’t fret. Lagerfeld showed some perfectly proper eveningwear, including a strapless charmer printed in pink fl owers and all atwinkle. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 Fanciful Footwork Fancy-free or free from fancy? Sometimes a designer’s just got to push the envelope, piling on more-is-more exotica as Dries Van Noten did, or working with an abstracted carnival motif, like Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo. For others like Christian Lacroix, however, a little toning down is in order.

Dries Van Noten: More is more. Sometimes that makes for a fabulous philosophy, especially when it looks as easy as a breeze wafting through the land of fashion exotica. Enter Dries Van Noten, a guy who knows his way around a print motif. This time out, he wanted to express his penchant for patterns is a new way, while pushing himself technically. He pushed all the way to the most challenging collection he’s ever designed — with exquisite results. Using white fabric as his canvas, Van Noten combined different, completely unrelated patterns in strong blocks. Many were fl orals and inherently romantic, but their graphic placement and the clean, seemingly simple lines of the clothes — not to mention the models’ antithetical, austere beauty look — created an odd aura, one of edgy gentleness with a tough core. These girls might like pretty, but pushovers they’re not. They walked the runway in a setting that, despite its Grand Palais address, was a concrete dump, the better to contrast the vibrancy of 40 gorgeous prints — an array of fl owers, wildlife, clean graphics and moody abstracts. These came in dresses, some knotted in front or falling to a V and tied in back, and any number of sporty compilations of trenches, tops, shorts and countless takes on the season’s pajama obsession. Yet not content to let the fl ora and fauna get all the play, Van Noten added a mineral element, sometimes embroidering the clothes with sterling silver or semiprecious stones, the weight of which caused some technical issues. (No doubt another weighty issue: whether the rocks and the rocky dollar can fi nd peace with each other.) To fi nish it all off, Van Noten developed his fi rst jewelry collection, featuring big, bold stones and earthy silvers. And since no girl dresses in prints alone, the commercial collection features solid versions of every look in a far-fl ung palette featuring every color found in the prints. As we said, sometimes more is more indeed.

Comme des Garçons: Rei Kawakubo began her spring collection for Comme des Garçons at square one, literally, with a jumpsuit made from a patchwork of ruffled squares, and philosophically, in that the getup embodied her fundamental design ethos: to defy convention. Without Kawakubo’s CliffsNotes, it can be nearly impossible to decipher her message, yet it’s fun, if sometimes confounding, to try. This time out, MTV Japan’s teenage anime series “The World of Golden Eggs” was projected onto the fl oor, setting a playful tone. And certainly many of the frilled clothes — full skirts, stiff dresses and lattice-like bloomers — though plenty awkward, were pretty in their own way, in happy colors and proportions that looked downright joyful. But glee chez Kawakubo can have a dark side — remember her Broken Brides? Here, she seemed to be working a clown motif, though neither of the child-friendly Bozo nor romantic Pierrot sort seen at Viktor & Rolf. Rather, done up with white greasepaint, heavy cheek circles and disheveled hair tied around their necks, her models wore grim expressions contrasting starkly with the clothes. These came in a hodgepodge of pilings that, for all their randomness, worked in classic Comme references as well as those vibrant colors that left room to speculate on the circus theme. Case in point: the tailored jackets sprouting lovely layers — gingham here, awning stripe there — and the dresses with sequined sleeves that looked like pillowcases (but without the famous padded bumps of yore). Perhaps the carnival hoopla was a commentary on the three- ring state of fashion. Or maybe Kawakubo was just amusing herself with Crayola colors, in sync with the season’s ultravivid hues and PARIS oddball shapes, such as the fl at, two-dimensional dresses tacked spring ’08 onto printed shirts. Whatever her reason, the clothes left some concrete aesthetic impressions: They were as fanciful as they were fascinating.

Christian Lacroix: As a designer capable of achieving major wows, Christian Lacroix has struggled to bring his couture exuberance down to a commercial level. For spring, he once again took up the challenge and sent out a collection that struck a nice balance. Sure, there were plenty of pretty clothes and vibrant prints, but interspersed throughout the fi rst part of the show were some low-key numbers not usually in Lacroix’s repertoire. He showed graphic coats in black-and-white tweed, pencil skirts and sedate belted tops, as well as a lineup of little black dresses that, though tame, were terrifi c. But midway, he switched to vacation mode and the exuberant Lacroix we know and love was back with diaphanous gowns, fi lmy pareos and glam gal swimwear, some detailed with faux pythons, tin and resin embroideries and African beading. The accessories, too, provided some big thrills — bright bracelets banded up the arms, colorful gloves that only covered the fi ngers and boldly Dries Van Noten printed head wraps topped with what looked like satellite dishes. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Comme des Garçons Comme des Garçons

Christian Lacroix Dries Christian Christian Van Lacroix Lacroix Noten

Dries Van Noten Comme des Garçons PHOTOS BY DELPHINE ACHARD, STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI DELPHINE ACHARD, STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 WWD.COM Akris more from the Range Rovers shows... While their inspirations certainly ran the gamut — from sailing to vacuum cleaners, that is — designers still delivered some looks that were minimal, sophisticated and polished.

Akris: At his best, Albert Kriemler serves Akris up the kind of solid, sophisticated fare that suits his customers’ needs and, by extension, has helped to build Akris into a solid, viable business. But occasionally, Kriemler indulges his editorial instincts with misguided themes like sailing, which got in the way of this collection’s chic foundations. There were some clean linear sheaths that reflected the house’s sleek Swiss simplicity and gentle nods at the nautical motif with bateau necks and woven rope belts. But fussy add-ons such as unfortunate geometric stripes, sailor collars that dangled off otherwise polished jackets and pockets folded to imitate triangular sails were pure folly. They don’t work on the runway and they likely won’t work for Akris’ customer. As one onlooker said of the transparent, fluttering squares ▲ that decorated a dress, “Now you know Véronique Branquinho: Costume what you can do with your Post-its.” Véronique Branquinho’s National romantic sweeping skirts in PARIS washed cottons with cascading Costume National: Though inspired by India, Ennio Capasa’s version of ethnic didn’t add spring ’08 ruffl es recalled the days of up to a surfeit of bangles, beads and bright yore, but her mellow-yellow prints. He interpreted his theme with typical palette, ruffl ed blouses, restraint, offering a wide array of layered smoky-hued knit dresses and organza tunics and featherlight hooded moody pastel prints refl ected jackets, some finished with diamond-like timeless elegance. buttons. A bit of beading on a blouse’s collar, a gold belt showing at the back of a dress, or a burst of orange on the hem of a diaphanous white shirt brought energy to Capasa’s modernist and minimal look. Though he could have tackled his theme with more abandon, Capasa’s one-shoulder dresses and jackets with contrasting piping are sure to appeal to his fans.

Andrew Gn: Andrew Gn’s inspirational launching pad was none other than the oh-so-popular Seventies. But in a season rife with bytes from the decade, it was refreshing to see Gn’s cleaned-up take on it. No bell-bottoms or psychedelia here — it was ladylike polish all the way, with nods to Yves Saint Laurent, as in the ▲ billowing sheer black blouses. In terms Jeremy Scott: Using street Andrew Gn Issey signs and car tire tracks as of embellishments, Gn also showed some Miyake restraint — notable for a designer with so prints, Jeremy Scott sent sumptuous and ritzy an m.o. — and it made out a men-at-work-themed the details shine all the more. Cases in collection, where a graphic point: the handcrafted rosettes on a linen skyscraper dress and muddy sheath or the pops of elaborate butterfly- footprint-splashed coats and-bird embroidery on a coat. And then fi gured among the highlights there were the delicate ruffle accents — but the bride was the trimming necklines and sleeves, actually showstopper in her garbage- tiny layers of silk tulle intricately stacked can dress replete with handles and sculpted en masse. Gn has learned to and a veiled hard hat. forgo gilt without losing any of the luxe.

Issey Miyake: Fashion’s often been accused of existing in a vacuum. But few ever have thought to make it look like one. But that’s what Dai Fujiwara did in his second collection as creative director for Issey Miyake. Collaborating with British inventor Sir James Dyson — he of the bagless vacuum — Fujiwara printed blueprints for Dyson’s vacuums on futuristic utility coats and dresses, some of which were accessorized with cleaning accoutrements, including one with a vacuum hose belt. (Dyson even created the show’s set with long industrial tubes.) Fujiwara wisely averted mere gimmicks by relegating those looks to part of a much ▲ broader whole. Inspired by the wind, Charles Anastase: A he showed a light touch in his riffs on Victoriana theme pervaded Miyake’s signature pleated designs, cutout Charles Anastase’s charming knit confections and vividly printed paper- — if literal — collection, via like dresses and coats, before ending with English doll-like ensembles a lineup of pretty scarf dresses printed such as prim cotton eyelet

with a Japanese face. GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY dresses and fl ared coats. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 9 WWD.COM Arnault’s Empire: Diverse and Growing Continued from page one at $26 billion — has retained a keen interest in real estate and has been actively in- vesting in property, particularly in fast-developing China and Macau. It is understood that some of that real estate is to be developed into future shopping malls. Arnault’s personal monies, mostly funneled through Groupe Arnault, are also going into private equity and hedge funds (including the Canadian fund Sagard II and Los Angeles-based Colony Capital), plus direct investments in a variety of businesses, in- cluding retail. Several dedicated teams are said to be hunting for possible direct in- vestments, with a particular interest in emerging markets. Arnault declined to comment for this story. Early last month, the European Commission cleared Arnault’s acquisition of online travel agency Go Voyages. For that transaction, the business titan employed a new entity called Financière Agache Private Equity, part of Groupe Arnault. The fi rm ultimately teamed with Compagnie Nationale à Portefeuille, or CNP, an investment vehicle of the Belgian fi nancier Albert Frere, a close friend and long- time business ally of Arnault’s. (The Go Voyages founders also retain a minority of the capital.) In March, Arnault, 58, surprised the industry by joining Colony Capital to ac- quire a 9.1 percent stake in Carrefour, taking the king of luxury into the supermar- ket aisle. Arnault’s presence already seems to have had an Above: Louis Vuitton’s headquarters on Rue de Pont Neuf and the impact: The giant retailer, the world’s second-largest after hotel Cheval Blanc in Courchevel. Bernard Wal-Mart, has agreed to leverage its real estate assets and Arnault vowed to ramp up sales growth and profi tability. On a much offi ce, and a 23.1 percent stake in Micromania, a retailer of smaller scale, Arnault made an investment estimated at video games and consoles. about $30 million this year in Belle International Holdings Arnault has repeatedly stated he intends to focus on Ltd., a giant Chinese shoe retailer. His investment, at the organic growth at LVMH, a conglomeration of some 50 time the company was introduced on the stock market last luxury brands, several of them still in the early stages of May, represents about 2.9 percent of Belle’s shares. rejuvenation. Other investments under the Groupe Arnault umbrel- His reticence about buying more brands stems from la include assorted real estate in France and Russia, the a lack of attractive targets in fashion and leather goods, prestigious Cheval Blanc vineyard (a 50-50 investment with LVMH’s biggest business activity, and steep valuations. Frere), a Cheval Blanc hotel in Courchevel, France, and “He’s not investing in luxury,” said one industry source, stakes in several Web sites, including the real estate spe- noting Arnault generally weighs investment opportunities cialist SeLoger.com and the gambling site Betfair.com. based on a “profi tability strategy,” not based on any par- To be sure, Arnault has slowed his pace of acquisitions ticular sector. via LVMH — particularly in fashion and leather goods. LVMH also maintains a 3.5 percent stake in the Italian Besides Les Echos — a transaction expected to close luxury fi rm Tod’s SpA and a 7.2 percent stake in Xinyu soon after several months of exclusive negotiations with Hengdeli Holdings Ltd., a Chinese wholesaler and retailer owner Pearson Group plc — LVMH in May bought a ma- of watches. jority stake in Wen Jun Distillery, a Chinese maker of pre- Given the scale of his wealth — and the Byzantine nature mium white spirits. That deal came three years after an- of his business dealings — Arnault’s far-fl ung investments other big wines and spirits buy: the Scottish whisky maker are often attributed to the wrong entity in the media. Glenmorangie. He has continued to make deals via various investment LVMH’s 2006 annual report also details investments in arms. L Capital, a private equity fund sponsored by LVMH, two associate businesses: a 40 percent stake in Mongoual in July 2006 acquired a majority stake in Piazza Sempione, SA, a real estate fi rm whose holdings include LVMH’s head the Italian fashion manufacturer. Over the past fi ve years, L Capital has completed 16 investments in everything from Wen Jun liquor …as did Glenmorangie. fashion accessories to food and garden furniture. Since 2005, L Capital has been the recently joined principal investor in Micromania. LVMH’s spirits Groupe Arnault and Financière Agache are Arnault vehicles separate from LVMH, stable… but they do have business ties. For example, Groupe Arnault assists LVMH with de- velopment, engineering, corporate law and real estate. Under its service agreement, LVMH pays Groupe Arnault 4.5 million euros, or $6.2 million, per year, according to LVMH’s 2006 annual report. LVMH also leases space to both Groupe Arnault and Financière Agache and pro- vides certain administrative assistance. Then there is the 1 billion euro, or $1.38 billion, fund Arnault established last year with longtime business ally Frere. The fund’s mission is to invest in mainly European companies, taking both minority and majority stakes in listed and unlisted fi rms. It is understood the partners are open to various sectors, and are said to have kicked the tires of carmakers, television and real estate fi rms, but they have yet to announce

ARNAULT PORTRAIT BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE; VUITTON BUILDING BY JEAN-PHILIPPE CAULLIEZ DOMINIQUE MAITRE; VUITTON BUILDING BY BY PORTRAIT ARNAULT their fi rst transaction.

doozy Wednesday morning. The tent being Scott after party at the Elysée Montmartre affair, Morrison constructed in the courtyard of the Louvre for venue on Tuesday night — and the crowd went told of her plans to Fashion Scoops Sunday’s show boasted a ceiling composed wild. Agyness Deyn and her fashion posse, relax in the City of of vintage romance novel covers, all with Henry Holland and Gareth Pugh, were among Light by attending CASTING CALL: His talks with Roland Mouret the words “After Dark” in the title. The book the stage-hangers. Back at the bar, New York several shows to become chief designer of Schiaparelli fell covers are to be papered over with Vuitton’s DJ act the MisShapes’ Leigh Lezark, who this week. To through, but Diego Della Valle isn’t giving up famous monograms. appears in the upcoming Roberto Cavalli-H&M wit: she attended on his niche couture brand. The Italian mogul campaign, disclosed the group is launching a Costume National is casting his net once again, and one of the HEAVEN SCENT: Web zine later this month. “There will be a lot Wednesday. But biggest fi sh in it, industry sources say, is Giles Alexander of fashion content,” she said, hinting they’re there was a more Deacon. The two already know each other McQueen has also working on their fi rst fashion collaboration. discreet presence — and have talked about the Schiaparelli dedicated his at that show — position in the past. It would make sense, show on Friday MUSICAL CHAIRS: She’s going from John Mick Jagger snuck considering Deacon’s latest, exquisite to his late friend, to Jean. Jelka Music, longtime director of into a secluded collection, which was packed with couture-like Isabella Blow, communications and public relations at John balcony seat at silhouettes, reengineered for the 21st century. who died in Galliano, is moving to become Jean Paul the last minute to Deacon was traveling at press time and could May at age 48. Gaultier’s new director of communications, watch in isolation. Jennifer Morrison not be reached for comment. A spokesperson And the colorful according to a Paris source. Music is expected for Della Valle declined comment. fashion director to fi nish up with Galliano shortly after his SOLE LIFTING: According to David Lynch, would no doubt show Saturday night and start soon at transcendental meditation could help BEACHY KEEN: A chalk-white Dita Von Teese and have been Gaultier, where she succeeds Lionel Vermeil, out when it comes to wearing Christian a deeply tanned Jade Jagger turned up at the pleased with Isabella Blow, depicted on who is now at Balenciaga. Louboutin’s vertiginous heels. Why? “Absence Loewe show in Paris on Wednesday. Jagger said the designer’s Alexander McQueen’s invite. of discomfort and pure happiness,” said she’d just landed in town for the presentation epic, poster- HOUSE ON VENDOME: Taking time off from the director, who swung by New York’s of her new signature clothing and jewelry line size invitation her gig on TV’s hit series “House,” Jennifer Pierre Passebon gallery Tuesday night to today. “There’s very much an Ibiza feel to the by illustrator Richard Gray. It depicts a Morrison lit up a small dinner Tuesday evening view his photographs featuring Louboutin’s clothing, with lots of embroidery,” said Jagger, triumphant Blow, in a McQueen dress and hosted by L.A. vintage guru Cameron Silver perpendicular fantasy shoes. In line with fl ashing a few chunky rings from the line. a Philip Treacy headdress, in a horse-drawn in Boucheron’s salons overlooking the Place Lynch’s methods, Charlotte Casiraghi said she carriage ascending to heaven. Vendôme. While Silver, who is an ambassador also tends to space out when she goes on BOOK MARK: Those looking for clues to the for the jeweler, said he hoped the spirit of the a shoe shopping spree. “I love shoes, but I collaboration between Marc Jacobs and ALMOND EYES: Eighties icon Marc Almond Countess de Castiglione, who once lived in don’t know what I’m getting half the time,” artist Richard Prince for Louis Vuitton had a crawled out of the woodwork at the Jeremy the same building, would visit the intimate she joked.

12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 WWD.COM Denim Report Claiborne, Gunn Take the Blue Tour

By Beth Wilson Tim Gunn is helping women fi nd the perfect fi t in a six-city tour. CHICAGO — Liz Claiborne Apparel has a new marketing tool — denim. The goal is to entice customers with a fl attering pair of jeans and get them to keep coming back for more. That’s the driving force behind the company’s nation- wide denim tour, launched with Glamour magazine and headlined by fashion guru Tim Gunn, Claiborne’s chief creative offi cer. The six-city tour, complete with travel- ing “glam van,” made its second “fi t stop” for a crowd of some 300 women outside the Carson Pirie Scott at Yorktown Center, near Chicago in suburban Lombard, Ill., two weeks ago. The company rolled out $39 to $79 jeans with new cuts, colors, washes and novelty stitching and marketed its denim selection with special signage in stores to explain the different styles, which come in misses’ sizes 2 to 16, larger sizes from 14 to 24 and in petites sizes 2 to 16. For some women, trying on jeans is a dreaded task akin to trying on swimsuits, said Michele Parsons, president and chief merchandising offi cer for the Liz Claiborne Apparel division. “A lot of women are afraid of it,” she said. “They think denim is only something you can wear if you’re slim or six feet tall.” Leave it to Gunn, of Bravo’s “Project Runway” to, using his phrase, “make it work.’’ Gunn said he helped women to make better choices and give up jeans that were too faded and too big or cinched at the waist but baggy and saggy in the hip and thigh. “They looked like they could go out and pick some KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY corn,” he said. “They didn’t look like fashion.” But after a few minutes in the glam van, more at its conclusion highlighted three models, one wearing size 14, than 100 women emerged fi tted and transformed, another with a straight size 4 fi gure and a more hourglass-shaped Gunn said. model wearing a size 6, all in different denim looks for daytime, In particular, Gunn, who also hosts Bravo’s “Tim evening and weekend wear. Gunn’s Guide to Style,” cited one woman in her 60s “Denim has taken over the fashion world, and this is our oppor- with an average build who left saying, “‘I look fantas- tunity to serve our customer and make her feel comfortable and tic in the slim cut,’” Gunn recalled. “She was reborn. safe, and also current,” Parsons said. She was thrilled. We had a lot of happy women.” Noting that the denim market may have overlooked women aged 40 and older, she Claiborne’s darker boot-cut silhouette was the most popular because it was the added, “it’s a huge opportunity.” most universally fl attering, he said. For those 150 or so attendees who didn’t receive a one-on-one fi tting, Caruso said During a question-and-answer session, audience members presented Gunn with the company plans to send invitations for an in-store fi t clinic. issues he plans to share with Claiborne executives, namely how to meet the needs of “We want to give her an experience so she’ll keep coming back,” Caruso said of plus-size women and how to best accommodate 5-foot 3-inch women who are too tall potential Claiborne customers. for petites and too short for regular sizes. Meanwhile, the company’s denim push appears to be having an impact. Parsons Gunn was asked his opinion on capri pants, responding that “for more diminutive said sales are strong, with its main doors — Macy’s, Dillard’s and Carson’s — ordering women, it makes legs look shorter and stubbier.” more denim than initially projected. With that, Leah Caruso, Claiborne’s director of marketing, rolled down her capri- After stopping in Bloomington, Minn., and Lombard last month, the tour hits look jeans to create a longer line. Macy’s in Bridgewater, N.J. and Houston; Belk at Hanes Mall in Winston-Salem, N.C., Claiborne also illustrated the versatility of its denim in a fashion presentation that and Dillard’s at Kenwood Mall in Cincinnati this month. Girbaud Hinges U.S. Hopes on Le Jean A Family Affair enim veterans Marithé and François Girbaud want and co-owner of On Sunset in West Hollywood, Calif., avvy sportswear runs Dto reclaim lost ground in the U.S. contemporary who mixes designer labels such as Jean Paul Gaultier Sin the family for David, market with the spring launch of a premium denim and Barbara Bui with contemporary looks from Cravata Gregory and Gary Pariente, brand called Le Jean de Marithé + François Girbaud. Killer, which she imports from Paris. Having fi rst met founders of French contempo- Produced under license by New François Girbaud some 30 years ago rary fashion labels American York’s I.C. Isaacs & Co., Le Jean is in Italy, Stein praised his vision, which Retro and Zoe Tee’s. a move by the Paris-based Girbauds she said is necessary for the repetitive The brothers, whose fa- to attract trend-savvy customers jeans market because “it needs to re- ther, Gérard, is president of after their namesake jeans line create itself.” French fast-fashion behe- evolved into an urban label and While Le Jean’s inaugural collec- moth Naf Naf, which he co- stopped selling women’s jeans in tion for spring is small and priced a founded in the Seventies with the U.S. last spring. bit too low for her high-end boutique, his brother, Patrick, have un- Already available overseas, Le Stein said she wants to help grow the veiled their debut denim line, Jean will kick off in the U.S. with a business with the Girbauds. My Lonely Jean. capsule collection of some 15 styles “I really want to be there when “There is strong demand wholesaling from $43 to $55, or as they launch the bigger picture next for timely fashion denim, much as 20 percent higher than season,” Stein said. “I have a lot of such as wide-leg jeans,” said the jeans sold under the Marithé faith in these guys.” David Pariente, the label’s + François Girbaud label. But Le So does Isaacs, which projects president. Jean embodies the same attention that Le Jean will hit $10 million in The denim line boasts ex- to detail and technologically ad- A spring fi rst-year wholesale sales for the actly that, wide-leg denim vanced fabrics that characterize the look from U.S. women’s business. styles with a straight-out-of- Girbauds’ ventures, which also en- Le Jean de “We think [denim’s] headed back Woodstock feel. Retailing for Marithé + compass a high-end line produced toward a fashion cycle,” said Robert around 150 euros, or $212 A look François by Italy’s Interfashion and a sports- S. Stec, Isaacs’ chairman and chief at current exchange, the My by My Girbaud. wear label dubbed Cravata Killer. executive offi cer. “Other than mak- Lonely Jean collection includes Lonely Striving to move beyond stan- ing the wash lighter or darker, a range of bell-bottom styles in Jean. dard fi ve-pocket blue jeans, Le Jean there’s nothing new out there.” black, unwashed denim and offers lavender capris, jeans featuring two yokes Girbaud continues to push for innovation, es- Seventies vintage blue. that crisscross in the front, cropped linen jackets pecially as energy and water conservation is par- “We are already receiving huge demand for the and buttercup yellow T-shirts cut with a deep V- amount for many consumers. One development washed blue,” Pariente said. “Women are not buying neck collar accentuated by overlapping stitching that has been in the works for 10 years is a laser classic denim anymore. They want the latest denim for an origami effect. treatment that gives double-faced striped cotton a styles, otherwise they buy dresses.” “We need real design,” said François Girbaud, washed-out look, not to mention a soft and pliant He noted that the brothers’ fi rst foray into the fash- who promoted Le Jean at the Las Vegas rendition feel, without a drop of water. Made in Italy, the la- ion trade was when they were the fi rst agents for Joe’s of Project Global Tradeshows in August. sered cotton will be available next summer in the Jeans in France. Girbaud, 62, who got his start in the jeans busi- form of cropped overalls with dark brown leather My Lonely Jean is available at American Retro and ness in 1964, said, “There aren’t that many real de- trim and a $60.50 wholesale price. Zoe Tee’s shops in Paris, as well as New York’s Atrium signers in the denim market.” “We are opening doors,” Girbaud said. and Madison in Los Angeles. Girbaud’s experience appeals to Shauna Stein, buyer — Khanh T.L. Tran — Emilie Marsh PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY

14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat

K Street NYC’s Helen Wang Aims Higher With HW Line V-neck T-shirt. By Julee Greenberg HW Helen Wang’s HELEN WANG IS GROWING UP. beaded The contemporary designer, who became known for her fashionable but acces- silk dress. sible day dresses, is launching a higher-end collection called HW Helen Wang for spring. The line, which consists entirely of dresses for day and evening, is targeted toward a new customer. “I want people to look at this collection with a fresh mind,” she said. “I see this line for a different woman, looking for a timeless, not trendy, look.” The collection, which is available for sales at the Globe Showroom in New York, consists of about 50 pieces. There are hand-embroidered evening gowns with taffeta bow details, delicate beading and pleating on silk chiffon short dresses and long printed silk gowns, which Wang said she sees as red-carpet appropriate. In addition, there are layered chiffon strapless gowns with a chain wrapped around the waist for a bit of a rocker-inspired look. The HW Helen Wang collection wholesales from $230 to $380, while the Helen Wang line wholesales from about $100 to $120. Wang said she is targeting high-end specialty retailers worldwide for the new collection and expects to reach $1 million in wholesale volume for the fi rst year. One Woman’s Quest “This line is what I’ve always wanted to design,” she said. “It gives me a lot of creative freedom, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.” For the Perfect T Wang said she came up with the ari Weiner has always idea when customers starting coming Kbeen on the hunt for the A beaded into her SoHo store asking for high- perfect white T-shirt. chiffon er-end social occasion dresses. One “From a very young age, I dress. customer in particular, actress Keri was obsessed with fi nding the Russell, purchased a dress and wore perfect white T,” Weiner, now it to a red-carpet event in the sum- 33, said. “I used to take those mer. Soon after Russell’s photograph Hanes T-shirts from the pack- appeared in magazines, Wang sold out age and cut them up until they of that particular style. She said that fi t me perfectly.” made her think that now would be a After a few detours, she good time to create dressier, more in- would eventually turn her quest tricately designed pieces. She wanted into a business. A graduate of many of them to be appropriate for the Parsons School of Design in daytime wear as well. New York, Weiner spent a few “Dresses are part of a woman’s years in the fashion industry lifestyle today,” Wang said. “Women before going back to school to should be able to wear their fancier attend the Gemological Institute dresses during the day. They shouldn’t of America in Carlsbad, Calif., only be saved for special occasions.” and became a certifi ed gemolo- For fall, Wang said she plans to gist. After fi nding a job within add novelty elements to complement the diamond industry, Weiner the dresses, such as small evening said she couldn’t help wanting bags and evening jackets and coats. to go back into T-shirts. The HW Helen Wang collection will “I just thought it would be also be sold in her SoHo store along great to start a company based with the full Helen Wang collection. on the perfect white basic T- shirt,” she said. “I always wear jeans and T-shirts and I know so many other women like me, who fi nd it frustrating to fi nd the perfect fi t.” Sisters Explore Contemporary Side With Porter Grey And so, K Street NYC was born. The concept, which risten and Alexandra O’Neill just couldn’t find anything to Weiner has introduced after Kwear. Porter Grey’s months of research, is to sell The sisters had a simple concept in mind when they looked silk blouse T-shirts according to chest, to start their own contemporary sportswear collection. Kristen, and linen waist and hip size. Weiner 23, a recent graduate of Harvard University, and Alexandra, 21, pants. said in order to make the T- an art history student at New York University, just wanted clas- shirt contour a woman’s body, sic, easy-to-wear clothing that could easily take them from col- the shirts are not meant to fi t lege to the real world. They launched a line called Porter Grey. tightly, but have a shape that The brand is named after the O’Neills’ great-grandmother, fi ts comfortably in all the right Catherine Porter Grey, who lived next door when they were places. Since many women do growing up. Alexandra is the designer of Porter Grey, and not know their waist and hip Kristen handles the business end. Alexandra said she has al- sizes, Weiner has simplifi ed ways loved to sew and learned the craft from her grandmother the shopping process by tag- when she was only 10 years old. ging the shirts only by bra size. “She taught me how to sew on this old sewing machine and I’ve So, when a woman goes into a always loved it,” she said, adding that between classes she fi nds store to buy a K Street T-shirt, time to design the collection from her Greenwich Village apart- she can purchase a shirt from ment, which she shares with her two dogs, Winston and Amelia. size 30A/B up to 38D/DD. The line launched for fall 2006. It was a small collection of The shirts are only avail- dresses, blouses, skirts and pants. The fi rst season, Alexandra able in white, but in four was mostly designing items to order for friends and family different styles. There’s the members. After Kate Ciepluch, a buyer for Shopbop.com, saw basic crew and V-neck, a tis- a friend wearing a Porter Grey top, she immediately wanted sue-thin inside-out crew neck to see the complete collection. She ended up picking up a full and a distressed V-neck style range of product for the site, making Shopbop Porter Grey’s fi rst for that vintage-inspired look. offi cial account. The shirts range in wholesale “I fell in love with the simplicity of the silhouettes mixed price from $30 to $32 (or retail with the vintage-feeling prints,” Ciepluch said. “I was also at- from $58 to $62 on kstreetnyc. tracted to the one-shoulder style as this style has been retailing a manageable level. All of Porter Grey’s manufacturing is done com) and are made of organic well for us the past few seasons. [I also loved] the color palette in New York’s Garment District, so the O’Neills can keep a close Sea Island and Pima cottons. of cream and yellow, two colors that work well online.” eye on the production. Weiner said she is target- Ciepluch said she loved the added details on the pieces, such “We are really just getting started and working out of our ing high-end specialty retail- as the glass buttons on a coat. apartments, so there is only so much we can handle at this ers nationwide to sell the col- For spring, the collection has grown. There are silk vintage- point,” she said. “I also love having our factory here in New lection. Eventually, she plans inspired printed dresses with delicate shell buttons, a silk York so we can be in on the process.” to add other staple colors like blouse with a Peter Pan collar, a rayon and Lycra spandex jer- The Porter Grey collection wholesales from $100 to $425. black and gray. She said she sey Henley dress and high-waisted, wide-leg linen pants. The Kristen declined to give fi rst-year sales expectations, but indus- would also like to add hood- colors for the spring collection are soft blush, blue, cream and try sources estimate they will most likely bring in about $1 mil- ies, long-sleeve styles, tank yellow. Kristen said she is targeting high-end specialty stores to lion in wholesale volume. tops and even men’s shirts. carry the collection as she would prefer to keep distribution on — J.G. — J.G. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 15 WWD.COM Weak Dollar Weighs on Italian Textile Show By Stephanie Epiro to sell to the Americans today. In euros, or $39.1 million, in 2007 the past, when the market was at were expected to spike by dou- MILAN — Italian exhibitors a peak you could predict for how ble digits next year. unfurled new fabric trends at many years it would last. Now Spearheading the fabric Milano Unica, while currency everything is uncertain.” trends for fall-winter 2008-2009 issues cast a shadow over the Beppe Pisani, president of at the show, which ran Sept. 11 fair’s four-day run as the dollar Ideacomo and mill Serikos, to 14, were double-face fabrics, fell to an all-time low against the said, “Some mills are sacrifi cing which were classic weaves on euro, at around $1.40. profi t in order to keep American one side and coated or infused Expressing frustration over sales, but it’s only a matter of with lab-born yarns on the other. the dollar’s latest decline at the months they can keep that up. Marini Industrie presented a textile show, Italian fabric execu- For us and other silk producers, wool and nylon double-jacquard tives said the weakened currency the exchange rate has seen the fabric that was felted black on threatened 2007’s sales upturn American bridge market cus- one side with a silver diamond and expected increases in 2008. tomers disappear.” design on the reverse. Luxury News of the depreciated ex- Many mills reported stronger sportswear fabric line Ospiti change rate dampened statistics demand from the domestic and Del Mondo showed outerwear- released by the Italian Federation other European markets help- weight waxed cotton, the surface for Textiles and Fashion, show- ing to recoup lost American and coated with polyester to look MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY ing Italian textile exports grew Japanese market sales. like grainy leather. Moda In’s entrance on the fi rst fl oor of Milano Unica. 2.3 percent for the fi rst quarter “It’s not only the dollar, but Coated fabrics also featured cose fabrics in antique pink, as ultrafine wool and acrylic of 2007, compared with the same also the yen, which also af- at Lanificio del Casentino champagne, beige and burnt blends for dresses, in black-and- period in 2006, to total 1.6 billion fects the Korean market,” said — dark green, gray and black orange tones. One wool and white and ecru fl oral, animal, Art euros, or $2.23 billion. Riccardo Marini, president of tweeds and herringbone wool viscose cloth was padded and Deco and Liberty style prints. The fi gures prove the Italian Prato-based Marini Industrie. and cashmere and silk blends — another double-sided wool fab- Guglielmo Miani, vice presi- textile sector, which had man- “But Europe is going very well, were given shimmering bronze ric bonded on the loom with a dent of Larusmiani, said clients aged to fi ght its way out of a fi ve- our summer 2008 orders were and gold laminated surfaces, nylon thread. had increased production of year battle to survive in the face up. I’ve seen some American while others were blended with “Jersey will continue to grow winter garments made from cot- of cheaper Asian production and clients here and they placed or- polyester to resemble cracked for at least another two sea- ton by 30 to 40 percent. The mill the euro’s robust value, has man- ders. They appreciate the prod- patent leather. sons,” said Federico Boselli, ceo showed a new cashmere-feel, aged to stay on the road to recov- uct quality, so they buy because Buyers were keen to sample of the mill. “Clients are getting thicker-weight cotton tweed ery mapped in 2006, when sales they have no other alternative.” the new textiles. Min Htoon, de- more adventurous in how they and small check for pants and rose 1.5 percent to hit just over 9 Andrea Barontini, vice presi- signer for the Oslo-based wom- use the fabric.” jackets, alongside double-face billion euros, or $12.5 billion. dent of Lanificio Marcolana, en’s wear line Ricco Vero, said Boselli said sales for the mill denim stretch fabrics. In light of the exchange rate, said, “I’m happy to see medium- he sourced many of the fabrics were up by 65 percent for the “With the trend of minimal- many mills increased fabric priced European lines picking for next fall’s collection. fi rst half of the year and he fore- ist fashion, there’s a crossover prices by as much as 30 percent up after many years. Northern “We loved the PVC-coated cast to close 2007 with sales up with men’s and women’s fabrics,” or cut profi t margins. Europe and Scandinavia are fabrics, Art Deco print silks and 30 percent to 20 million euros, Miani said. “Casual denim has de- “We raised prices last year,” especially interested in using wools made more modern with or $27.9 million. veloped into luxury sportswear.” said Davide Crotti, chief ex- Italian quality fabrics again.” polyester,” Htoon said. Silanco showed 10-gauge Miani projected 2007 volume ecutive offi cer of Silanco. “Now Bartontini said as a result, Marioboselli Jersey showed chunky wool and polyester jer- to rise 8 percent to 20 million they’re stable, but it’s really hard the mill’s sales of 28 million double-face wool, silk and vis- sey for coats and jackets, as well euros, or $27.9 million. Le Labo Finds Place in London LONDON — Le Labo is putting London under the The 18-year-old Brooklyn, N.Y., native, whose microscope. given name is Niatia Kirkland, stormed the radio The fragrance brand, which opened its fi rst out- and TV airwaves earlier this year with the hit 8ZklXccp# post in New York in February 2006, will cut the rib- song “Lip Gloss.” “I always loved lip gloss because bon on a concession in Liberty department store even if my hair wasn’t done or I was just running here in October. The space, which will measure 161 around with the boys, if I had lip gloss on, it made square feet, will be located just outside the store’s me feel a little more feminine,” she said. k_\i\`jfe\jlYjk`klk\ ground-fl oor beauty hall. The lyrics mention L’Oréal’s “It’s the spirit and the am- watermelon crush Colour Juice bience you get in the store,” Sheer Juicy Lip Gloss, one of ]fi\og\i`\eZ\% said company co-founder the brand’s top three shades Eddie Roschi, of the deci- BEAUTY BEAT in recent weeks. Lil Mama also JZ_ffcf]:fek`el`e^Xe[Gif]\jj`feXcJkl[`\j sion to partner with Liberty. gave L’Oréal’s Tutti Frutti vari- “There is a soul and a story in this place. There’s a ety a nod at the event, during which shoppers paid =@K`j]fiZi\Xk`m\k_`eb\ijj\\b`e^gif]\jj`feXc notion of customized service we connected with.” $7.49 for the glosses, a dollar off their usual price. [\m\cfgd\ek`eXikXe[[\j`^e#Ylj`e\jjXe[k\Z_efcf^p# As in the brand’s Manhattan store, Le Labo’s “It’s hot, hot and hot,” said Lil Mama of the fik_\c`Y\iXcXikj%8[mXeZ\pfliZXi\\in`k_1 line of 10 fragrances will be bottled on demand at bright pink hue. And she was clear about what the Liberty concession and customized labels will she thinks is not hot. “Lipstick is played out,” Lil ›

In its 2007 “Retail Real Estate Highlights” report, Colliers International noted markets are continuing to show healthy retail growth despite a sluggish economy and TheWWDList an even more diffi cult housing market. Thanks to heavy tourism and more high-end store openings, street-front retail is booming in places like New York, Miami and Los Angeles, said Ross Moore, senior vice president and director of market and economic research at Colliers. “Retail development ties in beautifully with urbanization. People are certainly not abandoning the suburbs, but there is so much more momentum for development in downtown areas across the country.” With retail space being gobbled up, hotel and restaurant development has also been on the rise. “We’re seeing more The Money Streets creative use of street-level space,” noted Moore. “Retailers are interested in spaces on The priciest retail streets in the U.S. ranked by rent per square foot. the ground fl oors of offi ce buildings and high-end hotels.” — Cecily Hall

FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK Rent per square foot: $1,350 “By global standards, New York’s Fifth Avenue ranks with the most expensive streets in the world,” said Moore of Colliers. “London, Paris, Hong Kong and Tokyo have considerably higher rents than any other street in the U.S., but Fifth Avenue falls right into step with these global cities.” Fifth Avenue has long been touted as one of the most popular shopping streets in the country. The corridor boasts specialty stores like 1 Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as fl agships for major brands such as Prada, Fendi, Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Louis Vuitton. Megafl agships from Giorgio Armani and Gucci are in the pipeline. And The Disney Store, FAO Schwarz, The Apple Store and the NBA Store surely cater to all those tourists. UNION SQUARE, SAN FRANCISCO Rent per square foot: $485 This area of San Francisco evolved into the city’s premier shopping district following the great earthquake and fi re of 1906. Today, fi ve major department stores can be found there, including Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s, which opened last year as an anchor to the newly expanded Westfi eld San Francisco Centre on Market Street. Along with its second anchor, Nordstrom, other stores in 2 Westfi eld include Juicy Couture, Coach, Kiehl’s and H&M. Nearby is the Crocker Galleria, which houses Polo Ralph Lauren and Versace. Last month, Barneys New York opened its sixth full-line store of 60,000 square feet in a six-fl oor building at Stockton and O’Farrell Streets. Surrounding these shopping hot spots is a plethora of upscale hotels, including the Four Seasons-San Francisco, Sir Francis Drake Hotel and the Westin-St. Francis. RODEO DRIVE, LOS ANGELES Rent per square foot: $480 The stretch of shops and boutiques on Rodeo Drive begins at Wilshire Boulevard to the south, and runs north to Santa Monica Boulevard. “The stores here are just getting more and more fabulous,” said Moore. “High-end retailers here can afford to pay these rents.” Giorgio Armani, Badgley Mischka, Bottega Veneta, Christian Dior and Dolce & Gabbana are among some of those high-end retailers, while fi ne jewelry names like 3 Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Harry Winston and Bulgari lure shoppers with their baubles and gem contributions to the upscale neighborhood.

KALAKAUA AVENUE, HONOLULU Rent per square foot: $360 Located just off of Waikiki Beach in Honolulu is Kalakaua Avenue, Hawaii’s famed shopping corridor. With over 111,000 square feet of selling space, retail complex 2100 Kalakaua Avenue offers some of the best-known luxury brands in the world: Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Coach, Tod’s, Bottega Veneta and Hugo Boss can all be found here. Five years ago, Chanel arrived with a 12,450-square-foot fl agship — the three-story space 4 was designed by architect Peter Marino. Prada boasts a total of fi ve stores in Hawaii, which include its newly renovated two-level freestanding fl agship on Kalakaua Avenue.

MICHIGAN AVENUE, CHICAGO Rent per square foot: $250 “The density of the area’s fi rst-rate shopping is, quite simply, unmatched anywhere,” said Frommers.com. The corridor’s nickname, “Magnifi cent Mile,” refers to the mile-long stretch of North Michigan Avenue between Oak Street and the Chicago River. Designer names line this street one after another. Beginning at Michigan Avenue and Oak Street, shoppers will fi nd Chanel and Louis Vuitton, with Giorgio Armani just a few steps 5 away. “The next block of Michigan Avenue has a New York vibe, thanks to the world’s largest Polo Ralph Lauren — a four-fl oor, wood-paneled minimansion,” said Frommers.com. Other nearby tenants include Tiffany & Co., Neiman Marcus, Crate & Barrel and Burberry. Neighborhood tourist draws include Niketown and the Virgin Megastore. LAS VEGAS BOULEVARD, LAS VEGAS Rent per square foot: $210 Perhaps shopping isn’t the fi rst thing people think of when they travel to Sin City, but maybe it should be. With hotel casinos, such as The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian, Mandalay Place, Via Bellagio and Wynn Esplanade offering plenty of upscale luxury brands in their spaces, it’s hard to avoid the growing retail development here. The latest hotel casino to break ground is The Palazzo, a 6 643-square-foot, 53-story extension of The Venetian Resort Hotel Casino and the Sands Expo complex on the Las Vegas Strip. It will feature The Shoppes at The Palazzo, where more than 50 international boutiques are housed, from Ferragamo and Christian Louboutin to Coach and Ralph IS Lauren. Barneys New York will anchor the luxury complex. The Palazzo is scheduled to open on Dec. 20. WESTHEIMER ROAD, HOUSTON Rent per square foot: $120 * Only three years ago, annual rents along this retail corridor in Houston were roughly $66 per square foot. Situated just west of Houston proper, Westheimer Road expands the shopping area further with specialty retailers, superstores and galleries. Popular stand-alone shops include Tootsies Highland Village (men’s and women’s apparel), The Arrangement (home furnishings) and Antique Pavilion, an upscale multidealer shop with a 7 plethora of antiques. The road also includes the Galleria Mall, which features a luxury lineup including Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Chanel, Christian Dior and Ferragamo.

LINCOLN ROAD, MIAMI Rent per square foot: $120 * “I think Miami has some of the best retail in the country,” said Moore. “We’re seeing some great tourism here, there are tons of restaurants and art galleries, and the apparel retail scene is excellent. I can see these rents climbing signifi cantly.” Located in Miami’s South Beach, Lincoln Road is 8 considered the best people-watching street in the area. Specialty stores include Anthropologie, Miss Sixty, Arden B., Lucky Brand Jeans and Bebe. And the Lincoln Road Mall is a pedestrian-only street mall in South Beach, which features jewelry, art galleries and restaurants like SushiSamba Dromo and La Lupa di Roma.

PROSPECT/GIRARD, SAN DIEGO Rent per square foot: $100 † A bevy of specialty shops lines this retail hot spot, located in La Jolla — San Diego’s most upscale neighborhood. Warwick’s La Jolla is a family- owned shop that features books, artisan jewelry and stationery, while Michele Coulon’s Dessertiere, another family-owned shop, offers gourmet French cakes and confections. New and noteworthy boutiques that have recently entered the area include Elizabeth’s Closet, which carries 9 women’s wear brands like Twelfth Street by Cynthia Vincent, Rock Revival and We the People, and Emilia Castillo, a high-end home decor and jewelry shop. Meanwhile, tired shoppers can stop at one of the neighborhood spas like GAIA Day Spa and C Spa, which are also located here.

WALNUT STREET, PHILADELPHIA Rent per square foot: $100 The majority of shops, restaurants and art galleries located on Philadelphia’s busy Walnut Street are located between Broad Street and 18th † Street. Walnut Street also features Rittenhouse Row, an upscale shopping district that boasts some of the biggest names in the business, including Burberry, Tiffany & Co., Cole Haan, Polo Ralph Lauren and Diesel. And on nearby Chestnut Street, The Shops at Liberty Place is a retail complex 10 which features J. Crew, Ann Taylor Loft and Jos. A. Bank, plus Express, Nine West and Victoria’s Secret. FIFTH AVENUE PHOTO BY JOHN ROMAN; UNION SQUARE BY PIERRE LESCOURRET/CORBIS; RODEO DRIVE BY JOSEPH SOHM, VISIONS OF AMERICA/CORB PIERRE LESCOURRET/CORBIS; RODEO DRIVE BY BY JOHN ROMAN; UNION SQUARE PHOTO BY FIFTH AVENUE SOURCE: COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL, A BOSTON-BASED REAL ESTATE BROKERAGE COMPANY; * AND † INDICATE TIES; ONLY ONE RETAIL CORRIDOR IS REPRESENTED FROM EACH METRO AREA

18 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 WWD.COM Megamall Opens in Hong Kong, Eyeing Chinese Tourists By Constance Haisma-Kwok both entertaining and comprehensive. “We wanted to give something unique to HONG KONG — Elements, a new 1 mil- both the Hong Kong population and to lion-square-foot shopping mall, has tourists,” said Lohan. opened in Kowloon West here as part of a To wit, the mall has a 700,000-square- $10 billion redevelopment of the area by foot rooftop garden with alfresco dining the Mass Transit Railway Corp. An office options and fi ve distinct shopping areas. tower, two new hotels (a W Hotel and a The Metal Zone is the most upscale, Ritz-Carlton) and extensive transportation showcasing fi ne jewelry and designer services are also part of the venture. fashion, with particular emphasis on “This project has been like pro- Italian brands. The zone features names longed labor,” joked Betty Leong, chief such as Prada, Valentino, Fendi, Bottega retail development manager for MTR. Veneta and Furla. Gucci will open a new She explained that while real work on store there in a few weeks — a 12,000- the mall began in 2000, the concept for square-foot shop that will be its largest it dates back to the mid-Nineties when in the Asia-Pacifi c region. Neighboring the Airport Express railway project was stores include jewelers Cartier, Damiani, launched. (The mall’s location is atop the Piaget, Mikimoto and Pianegonda. Airport Express’ Kowloon Station.) Also in the Metal Zone is an area “Hong Kong needs more shopping al- called the Indoor Boulevard, in which ternatives,” said Leong. “People are crav- each shop is two stories tall. Tiffany & ing for another place to hang out other Co., Versace and Lanvin all have large- freestanding beauty boutiques, includ- named MegaBox in Kowloon Bay. While than their homes or offi ces. This is what scale stores here, as will Mulberry, which ing Bobbi Brown, Anna Sui, Chanel and Elements’ retail mix bears more resem- we call the ‘third place’ — a place where will sell all of its lines (men’s and wom- Lancôme, while Fire is the entertain- blance to IFC, which is home to Lane there is a sense of community.” en’s ready-to-wear and accessories) in ment zone, with an ice rink, 12-screen Crawford’s fl agship and numerous de- MTR owns and operates five other one shop for the fi rst time in Hong Kong. cineplex and children’s wear. signer stores, its location is more akin malls in the city, but none are on this Leong said the Boulevard was designed Leong reported that 85 percent of to MegaBox, which suffers from a lack of scale or target high-end consumers. “This to create an impression. “We wanted to Elements’ tenants opened for the mall’s convenient transportation options. is new for us,” admitted Leong, “so we put re-create New Bond Street,” commented fi rst day of business this week, which It’s a lesson MTR has paid attention together an entirely new team.” Leong, pointing out two U.K. brands mak- coincided with the beginning of Golden to, given that Elements’ location, like that The company hired architectural fi rm ing their debuts in Hong Kong: Karen Week, a weeklong holiday in China that of MegaBox, is up-and-coming. Therefore, Benoy — best known for Bluewater in Millen and Pringle of Scotland. Footwear brings a huge infl ux of tourists into Hong Elements has a subway station that con- the U.K., Europe’s largest mall — to cre- brand Ecco also opened a shop in the Kong each year. “Our estimate was that nects to the main underground line, a ate Elements. As its name suggests, the area, creating a fi rst-of-its-kind “Ecco we would average 100,000 visitors a day new bus terminus servicing Chinese tour- mall’s design is based on the fi ve ele- Museum” display model for the store. in 12 months,” said Leong. “But our fi rst ists and a ferry that runs to Macau and ments of nature: water, earth, fi re, wood Men’s wear is gathered together in the day was between 170,000 and 180,000.” the mainland. Elements also offers free and metal. Each zone features a differ- Earth Zone, where brands such as Dunhill, What MTR has to do primarily is con- shuttle-bus rides from two locations in ent mix of retailers as well as artwork Canali, Paul & Shark, Alain Figaret and centrate on transportation options for Kowloon and has two taxi drop-off points and interactive installations refl ecting Brooks Brothers can be found. the mall. Hong Kong has seen a spate — one connected to the W Hotel’s lobby. the theme. Chris Lohan, senior associate Trendier fashions can be found in of large-scale mall openings in the last “The idea is to make this a lifestyle director of Benoy, said that although the the Water Zone, home to H&M, Zara, few years, ranging from the upscale destination,” explained Leong. “Our prox- concept had changed over the years, one Guess, ck Calvin Klein, and A|X Armani and very popular IFC mall in Central imity to China makes this a showcase for idea stayed the same: The mall had to be Exchange. The Wood Zone features many district to the mass market and aptly these brands. It’s a strategic location.”

FLIPPING OVER: Questions are being raised around the halls of 4 Times NRF Proposes Security Change Square about Flip.com, Condé Nast’s MEMO PAD new teen networking site. Pointing By Cate T. Corcoran Shop, Ralph Lauren and other retailers, as well to small traffi c numbers and a as at banks such as Citibank, make headlines. In whispered lack of enthusiasm from higher ups about the project, despite a he National Retail Federation Wednesday addition, retailers have been sued for failing to heavy fi nancial investment in the site’s technology, naysayers believe Flip has Tcalled on credit card companies to change comply with new federal laws designed to protect so far been a bit of a fl op. “Thank God it wasn’t my idea,” said one insider. the way they process transactions so retailers will consumer data. When breaches have occurred, Meanwhile, Flip just lost one of its editors, Holly Siegel, to Ellegirl.com. no longer be liable when customer data is stolen. retailers, banks and credit card companies have But Flip.com publisher Jane Grenier isn’t worried. “The site represents The change will also be good for consumers, said tussled over who is responsible. Last month, a innovation for the company,” she said, referring to Flip’s Flash-heavy NRF chief information officer David Hogan, be- report from the Canadian government held that technology and the site itself, which is Condé Nast’s fi rst foray into online cause it will make customer data more secure. TJX was at fault, and TJX offered a preliminary social networking. “Do we all want to see the site be larger? Absolutely. Is Instead of retailers keeping a customer’s settlement to its affected customers. bigger the number-one metric by which we defi ne success? Absolutely not.” credit card number as part of its sales records, Credit card companies require retailers Unique visitors, a metric used for most Web sites to determine their the bank would hold it. The retailer would retain to comply with security standards known as growth, have averaged around 250,000 since Flip’s February launch, only a truncated receipt and an authorization Payment Card Industry Data Security Standards, according to internal fi gures supplied by Grenier (for comparison, number linking back to the bank’s data. or PCI. A deadline for Tier 1 retailers to comply seventeen.com generated 542,000 unique visitors in August). Grenier said If retailers don’t retain credit card numbers, passed at the beginning of this month. The NRF she expects traffi c to dip for September and October because marketing they won’t attract thieves, contended Hogan. The has called the standards “convoluted” and said the site came to a halt during those months while it added several novel proposal would reverse the way credit only 40 percent of the largest retailers are com- upgrades. However, said Grenier, “Our determination of whether this site card transactions have been handled for more pliant so far. By necessity, security standards are is successful is not based on a panic check of uniques.” Measurements than 40 years. constantly evolving as thieves discover new ways that show each user is spending more time on the site are more promising. “To me, it is a very common sense approach,” to break into systems. Time spent per session has grown to 8.5 minutes since February; page said Hogan. “We keep hearing about major Under the NRF’s proposal, if a customer views per unique user have doubled to 15 pages per session from eight. breaches that keep occurring. One common contacts his or her credit card company to dis- One reason so much attention is paid to the traffi c number is because thread is that they want credit card data. If we pute a charge, the retailer would still be able it’s a key metric advertisers use to determine whether a site has a big can change this [requirement to keep credit card to show a receipt with a signature, date and enough audience to merit investing ad dollars. Flip doesn’t provide a large numbers], there isn’t going to be any incentive amount to prove a transaction had taken place reach for advertisers, but it does provide stickiness. In the past few months, for these guys to go after that. The info will re- and been authorized. the site has added as advertisers Guess and television network CW, which is side where it belongs, at the banks. That’s their The NRF sent its request to the PCI Security hosting a number of promotions on Flip around its “Gossip Girl” series. core competency.” Standards Council Wednesday. A spokesman Grenier said reaching new girls is a challenge Flip will tackle in There is growing public and industry concern there said members of the council were reviewing mid-November. One initiative is the launch of Scholarfl ip, where users over data security, as breaches at TJX, Stop & the proposal, but had no immediate comment. can win scholarships to college. The program will be a partnership with a number of special interest youth groups, from cheerleading organization AmeriCheer to Do Something. — Stephanie D. Smith al-Mart Stores Inc. on Wednesday was ordered to Wal-Mart Told to Pay $62M Wpay another $62.3 million to workers in Pennsylvania STYLE BAZAAR: After 140 years of reporting on fashion, Harper’s Bazaar who said they weren’t allowed rest and meal breaks. believes it’s time to publish some sort of manual — at least according to its Philadelphia Common Pleas Judge Mark Bernstein said he was penalizing the Bentonville, Ark.-based rules. “Great Style” includes advice taken from the columns and features of retailer because there was no “good faith” reason for in effect underpaying the employees. the Hearst fashion title, from dressing your age to shopping like an expert, The class-action suit involves 187,000 current and former employees who worked at Wal-Mart and coupled with red-carpet photographs of celebrities and commentary by Sam’s Club from March 1998 through May 2006. A jury last year awarded them $78.5 million. Carolina Herrera, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Donatella Versace, Michael Kors, A smaller number of workers — 124,506 who worked from January 2002 through October 2006 — Marc Jacobs and Narciso Rodriguez, among others. Jenny Levin, former senior qualifi ed for the damages awarded Wednesday. They will get about $500 each under a state law invoked fashion news editor at Bazaar, wrote the book before leaving the magazine in when a company withholds pay for more than 30 days without cause. June — she has since relocated to Hong Kong with her family, but continues Wal-Mart has been involved in similar suits across the country. A trial in California ended with a to contribute to the title. Hearst Books, a division of Sterling Publishing Co., $172 million verdict, which the company is appealing. Wal-Mart settled a Colorado suit for $50 million. will publish the book Nov. 15. And while the idea of a style guide is far from There are cases pending in New Jersey and other states. unique (Details also is coming out with one this fall, obviously for men), the “While Wal-Mart respects the court and the jury, we strongly disagree with the decisions against book is just one of several initiatives as Bazaar marks its anniversary with its the company in this case,” said Sharon Weber, a Wal-Mart spokeswoman. “It is our policy to pay every November issue. Polybagged with the issue will be a second edition of “A associate for every hour worked, and any manager who violates that policy is subject to discipline.” Fashionable Life,” a home and entertaining spin-off. — S.D.S. — Sharon Edelson WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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[email protected] must be extremely organized with a min. of 6 yrs exp. in the apparel or We are looking for sales execs to join accessory industry. Job requires daily our Joe’s womens sales team. 2 years correspondence with overseas factories, min exp in the premium denim market ACCESSORIES tracking & consolidating imports from a must. Salary and benefit package. India & Asia & issuing P.O.’s. Candidate Email: [email protected] SALES LEADER DESIGNER must have excellent computer, commu - Major Retail Connections: Fast-paced private label Sportswear Co. nication and problem solving skills. Strong Contacts w/corporate seeks a Designer with 5-7 years minimum Excellent opportunity and compensation Please call: (856) 761-8134 experience in woven tops & bottoms- for a highly organized person with a suiting pieces. Strong communication great attitude. skills and follow up w/overseas supplier. Please send resumes to: Must be detail oriented, organized, and E-mail: [email protected] or willing to travel. Computer skills, PDM, Fax: (212) 695 -8803 Illustrator, Photoshop necessary. Please Fax your resume to: 212-221-3169 Search hundreds of DSGNR JR/ TWEENS ACCESS 70’S K Established company seeks exp’d crea- positions in tive individual for licensed fashion bags. PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKER A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. Dynamic contemporary sportswear co. fashion, retail 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 has an immediate opening. Candidate Leverage the power of WWD must be able to prepare tech packages among industry professionals to be forwarded to the Far East. E-mail and beauty. resumes to: [email protected] to reach both active and passive job seekers. GRAPHIC DESIGNER Junior Import Company is looking for an organized & self-motivated Graphic Designer. Candidates must have expe- rience in graphic design & interpret- ing fashion trends to our buyer’s taste. Must work with design team on sports- wear product development fabric & Production Patternmaker trim resources, responsible for creat- Jacket/Coat Exp. Req’d. Min. 10 yrs. ing tech packs and production pack- E-mail Resume & Salary to: ages. Knowledge of garment construc- [email protected] tion, Photoshop and Illustrator a must. E-mail: [email protected] or Fax: 212-719-5008

OFFICE ADMIN Tailor/Seamstress Men’s Wholesaler seeks energetic and Long Island uniforms mfr seeks indiv organized individual to handle alloca- w/custom tailoring experience to do tions and administrative duties. The measuring/alterations on & off site, Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail ideal candidate must have at least 1 F/T. Good salary & benefits. Must year exp in a wholesale environment & speak English. Out of town travel req. fpclassifi [email protected] must have good communication and Fax: 516-483-9439 or to advertise. computer skills. Salary 25-30k. E-mail E-mail: [email protected] resumes to: [email protected] 20 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2007 WWD.COM The Naked Truth Catwalk to Carpet TORONTO — In this day and age, when actresses shield body parts from the camera Talk about fast fashion. These days, hardly a tick of the clock Ralph Lauren, with iron-clad contracts and hire doubles at goes by between a designer’s show and a starlet grabbing one of spring 2008. any hint of an unfl attering angle, it’s surprising the runway gowns for an appearance on the red carpet. While to fi nd one who is more than willing to strip Kiera Knightley patiently waited nearly seven months between down without any hesitation. Especially when the Rodarte fall 2007 show and the London premiere it means participating in graphic, brutal sex of “Atonement” to slide into her dove gray scenes. But that’s exactly what 28-year-old diaphanous frock, Cate Blanchett and Debra ingenue Tang Wei did for Ang Lee’s “Lust, Messing dressed themselves in Missoni Caution.” Considering it was her fi rst-ever and Ralph Lauren, respectively, within a fi lm role and that her real-life style tends week of the designers’ shows. Watch out toward ladylike sweaters and demure skirts, models — the stars soon could be ripping Wei ought to win the cinematic equivalent of a the clothes right off your backs. Purple Heart. For her part, Wei felt strongly this was no time for timidity. “I had to be this woman. Missoni, I had to do what she would do. Telling this spring 2008. story without the love scenes would have been impossible,” says the soft-spoken actress. Based on a short story by Eileen Chang, the fi lm centers on young Chinese resistance fi ghters targeting the occupying Japanese forces FILMMAGIC in World War II Shanghai. Idealist Wong Chia Chi (Wei) volunteers to become the mistress of Mr. Yee (Tony Leung), a traitor who runs the secret service. Convinced that if she beds him, Tang Wei the fi ghters can assassinate him, Wong Chia Chi gets to Mr. Yee by infi ltrating his wife’s mah-jongg circle. Soon Mr. Yee spots the fetching freedom fi ghter and makes her his lover, drawing her into sex sessions that are as savage as his insatiable lust dictates. Though some critics have Cate Blanchett at described the the Los Angeles erotic espionage premiere of thriller as rough “Elizabeth: The porn and the Golden Age.” Motion Picture Association of Debra Messing America has Rodarte, at the Emmys. slapped it with fall 2007. an NC-17 rating, the actress feels the audience’s attention should be turned IMPICTURES/ SARDELLA; GEORGE CHINSEE; CASSEL BY LAUREN BY DONATO GIANNONI; MESSING GIOVANNI BY WIREIMAGE; MISSONI AND CHANEL BY elsewhere. “Everyone is focusing on the love scenes, but once they watch the fi lm they’ll understand how important they were in presenting the emotional struggle between these characters,” she says. The rehearsals for these steamy tête-à- têtes were “very private,” says Wei, with just herself, Lee and Leung on set. “Ang made me feel very comfortable, so I didn’t worry,” she says. She put her trust in Lee from the outset, fi rst meeting him during the audition process when Lee fi xed a cup of tea for Wei, who was suffering a fever. “It surprised me. I thought, ‘Here is this big director trying to make me feel better,’” Wei smiles. “At that moment I knew I’d be happy to work for him.” She had a breakthrough moment with the role when she put the story’s extraordinary diamond ring onto her fi nger. “The ring is from Cartier. But it’s 6 carats. It’s impossible to fi nd a ring like that today,” says Wei. Although a fake was designed for the production, before shooting began a photo was discovered in a Paris museum a similar ring from 1941. “It was destiny,” says Wei. “It fi t perfectly. It was a magical moment for me.” Cécile “When she puts on that ring, it’s this big Cassel moment. She suddenly feels out of control.” at the Yet Wei sees her character as somewhat Kiera Knightley Venice of a role model. “This woman knows how to at the London Film appreciate life. Playing her got me out of my premiere of Festival. control zone,” she says. “We can look at her and “Atonement.” aspire to live bravely.” Chanel Haute Couture, spring 2007. — Constance Droganes WEI PHOTO BY GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; KNIGHTLEY BY JON FURNISS/WIREIMAGE; RODARTE BY JOHN AQUINO; BLANCHETT GREGG DEGUIRE/ BY BY JON FURNISS/WIREIMAGE; RODARTE GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE; KNIGHTLEY BY WEI PHOTO BY