Floral Arrangement
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Most-ExpensiveThe U.S. SInside: Pg. 16 HERMES’ RTW PUSH/3 RETAILING AT THE PLAZA/3 WWD Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 4, 2007 • $2.00 List WWDTHURSDAY treets Sportswear Floral Arrangement PARIS — Dries Van Noten has always loved prints, but for spring he went crazy for them, pushing himself to use them in new ways and adding sterling silver and semiprecious stones. Here, one of his bold combinations: a top and pants in contrasting patterns of irises and other blooms, worn with chunky jewelry. For more on the season, see pages 4 to 8. Arnault Grows Empire: Luxury Titan Investing In Real Estate, Internet By Miles Socha PARIS — It’s hardly his spending spree of the late Nineties, but Bernard Arnault remains one of the industry’s most active, savvy and unpredictable investors. And even as the luxury titan and chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton zeroes in on his latest conquest, the French financial daily Les Echos, he has teams of advisers hunting on a worldwide basis for other attractive places to park his money. According to sources, the richest man in France and the seventh wealthiest in the world — with a fortune estimated See Arnault’s, Page9 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear ™ PARIS COLLECTIONS A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld stuck to real clothes for real women, while on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 4 Jean Paul Gaultier created an ode to “The Pirates of the Caribbean.” FALL HARVEST GENERAL A Bounty of Sweater Styles Explode at Retail It’s hardly his spending spree of the late Nineties, but Bernard Arnault 1 remains one of the industry’s most active and unpredictable investors. Rtw and accessories rank as Hermès’ second-largest business and the If a woman says she can't find a sweater she from 15 percent in 2001, according to data from NPD 3 house wants to build the category to 30 percent of sales in fi ve years. likes this fall, it’ll be like a kid walking into Willy Fashionworld’s AccuPanel. Synthetics, natural fibers Wonka's chocolate factory and declaring there is and other fiber blends account for the remainder. DENIM: Girbaud aims to reclaim lost ground in the U.S. with the spring nothing for her. It’s just not possible. Most women (70%) avoid wool because they find 12 launch of premium denim brand Le Jean de Marithé + François Girbaud. Women’s sweaters are enjoying a style surge like it uncomfortable, Monitor stats reveal. Another 19 EYE: Talking with actress Tang Wei, who stars in Ang Lee’s new movie, never before. Modern cardigans feature tie, belted percent are allergic to it. And 7 percent don’t like the 20 “Lust, Caution,” in a daring portrayal for her fi rst fi lm role. or cascading fronts. There are garment care involved with it. Classifi ed Advertisements............................................................19 long tunics. Crocheted models. “Plus,” adds Wilt, “cotton doesn’t And sleeve styles deserve an pill like some wools do and that shows a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. award category all their own – garment’s age faster.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. kimono, balloon and bell sleeves Retailers appreciate cotton sweaters WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT because they have a long shelf life. ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. among them. VOLUME 194, NO. 72. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one “When the market opened six “When stores stock angora, there additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and months ago, there was so much comes a time when they have to mark three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by freshness, we felt this was an it down,” Banks says. “With cotton, Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive opportunity to reach a customer there’s no major cut-off time.” Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail with something she didn’t already Sweaters account for 7 percent of Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return own,” says Lori Holliday Banks, women’s apparel purchases (excluding undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA senior fashion analyst, The Tobe outerwear, suiting and socks), 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Report. “She will have choices and according to NPD data. Purchases are INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new want a 7/8-length belted wrap, a up 1 percent for the first six months of subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production button-front cardigan, a tunic, a 2007 compared to year-ago figures. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other sweater jacket. Women can create a At the Heidi Boutique, located Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list whole wardrobe of knits.” “Whether they’re the junior in the exclusive Troon North area available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. At Macy’s West, where cotton of Scottsdale, AZ, owner Heidi If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA customer, the tailored or 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, sweaters are often more climate- sophisticated customer—there’s Hilf O’Brien’s sweater assortment OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, right than others, the style variety includes sleeveless, belted, tunic BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED something for everybody.” MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR is definitely appealing, says Tifani and dress styles. — Tifani Wilt, CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Wilt, women’s fashion director. Macy’s West “Customers in Arizona love cotton “Whether they’re the junior sweaters because the fiber breathes in A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. customer, the tailored or the hot weather here,” she says. sophisticated customer—there's something for Breathability is important for the Coldwater everybody,” Wilt says. “What works best for us is Creek customers, too. “It’s essential due to changes the ‘wear now’ product. And even though we're our customer is experiencing both through global In Brief just getting into our best sweater weather, it's warming and personally through internal body still very hot. So cotton sweaters offer something changes,” Smith-Fitzgerald says. ● VALUE CITY STORES: Retail Ventures Inc. on Wednesday said trend-right and climate-correct.” Cotton and cotton-blended with silk or cashmere is its subsidiary Value City Department Stores has signed a definitive Coldwater Creeks Sandra Smith-Fitzgerald, vice- light enough to wear year round. Smith-Fitzgerald says. agreement to assign or sublease up to 24 locations to Burlington president of product “And the piece can be Coat Factory. The move is part of RVI’s previously revealed review styled in many ways, of strategic alternatives to generate value for shareholders. The 24 development, Better Quality Garments Made with Natural Fibers says sweaters are allowing versatility in stores will continue to operate through the holiday season, but will her wardrobe.” close by the end of March 2008. RVI said the number of stores is absolutely taking Female16-24 25-34 35-55 56-70 on a whole new Coldwater Creek subject to change, and proceeds from the assignment and sublease importance this Agree 51% 46% 49% 54% 58% is selling cardigans of the stores will be used to reduce Value City’s debt. Disagree 39% 43% 39% 38% 32% season. and pullovers, both ● TARGET IS TARGETED: A federal district court judge in San “Their versatility solid and marled Francisco on Tuesday gave class-action status to plaintiffs in a is like no other with novelty details. lawsuit filed against Target Corp. for not making its Web site category: from the weights — fine gauge for tops to At CoCo Pari, a Red Bank, NJ, boutique, “The accessible to vision-impaired people. The initial lawsuit was heavier gauge for coat replacements — to the yarn to long, belted cardigans are being worn almost like a filed by the National Federation of the Blind, the National the texture created by stitch interest, and the ability sweater coat.