The Inside: Top Apparel Web Pg.Sites 16 PPR NET UP 34.6%/3 KAMALI’S WAL-MART DEAL/4 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The RetaTHURSDAYilers’ Daily Newspaper • February 28, 2008 • $2.00 List Sportswear Mix Master In the beautiful fall collection he showed on Wednesday, Dries Van Noten displayed his considerable skill at combining patterns, textures and materials. Here, one of his remarkable blends: a multicolored sweater with a fur piece at its neck, worn with long leather gloves and bangles strung into a necklace. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 11. Bloomingdale’s Moves: Spring, Doroff Promoted To Boost Chain’s Growth By David Moin loomingdale’s is pumping up its top Bbrass to help drive the department store chain’s growth. Tony Spring has been promoted to president, and Frank Doroff has risen to vice chairman. An announcement on the executive changes is expected today, but additional management-related appointments to further strengthen the team are anticipated in the near future. Both executives continue to report to Michael Gould, Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief executive officer. “This is building the team for the See Bloomingdale’s, Page5 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear PARIS COLLECTIONS Karl Lagerfeld delivered a smart, fi nely honed collection devoid of the ™ 6 more fl amboyant fl ourishes he sometimes works into his mixes. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL The fast-growing Bloomingdale’s division of Macy’s Inc. has named Tony WHITE HOT 1 Spring as president and is promoting Frank Doroff to vice chairman. PPR reported that net income last year advanced 34.6 percent to $1.26 Updates to the Classic Shirt Transform a Basic into the Newest Essential 3 billion, thanks to robust luxury business and the integration of Puma. Norma Kamali will create an exclusive line for Wal-Mart that will include The classic white shirt is a staple in every with white embroidery and three-button cuff 4 women’s and children’s wear, accessories, footwear and home items. from Calvin Klein and a ruffled, lantern-sleeve woman’s closet. It has achieved iconic status, having EYE: As many attested at the screening of “The Other Boleyn Girl,” 16th- been worn famously by women from Audrey model from Rampage. “New details like bell or century England is not quite as scandalous as modern-day Park Avenue. Hepburn to Sharon Stone. These days though, the flutter sleeves give a fresh update to a basic.” 20 white shirt is taking a cue from other elemental items Gap is so confident consumers will be strong on Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................19 like the T-shirt – which seasons the white tops that it has a web site To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. ago went from unfussy to fabulous link devoted to “White Shirts.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. – and is standing front and center “For spring there is nothing more WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT in this spring’s fashion line up. cool and relevant then a classic white ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 44. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Never has a basic been less so. Gap shirt,” says Patrick Robinson, one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and This season’s essential white shirts executive vice-president of design. November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services have sleeves that flutter, waists “It’s an iconic style that is sexy when provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. that wrap and eyelet, crochet worn with a great pair of jeans.” Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post and embroidered textures that Gap has no fewer than 15 white Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. invite eyes to linger much as they shirts for spring, from a tuxedo cami Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North would over a blooming garden to a sleeveless sash tunic to a long-sleeve Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR on a summer’s morning. button-front that’s updated with a BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy Tom Julian, director of trends fitted silhouette and stretch cotton. of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production at McCann Erickson, says All these options mean women correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other designers are realizing basics will likely be making room in their Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list invite experimentation. closets for a new blouse or two. On available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA “With all the luxury influence average, women own 10.7 dress shirts, 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, over the past two years, what better according to the Monitor. Women 56- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED item to take and upgrade than the “The perfect white shirt becomes 70 own the most (12), those 25-55 MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR white blouse: from the fanciful – a wardrobe essential to balance own 11, and those 16-24 have 9.5. CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY like a formal tux – to the artful with the season’s brights.” And no matter what their age, A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. origami pleats, to the utilitarian with — Tifani Wilt, women are purchasing a variety of stretch, to the stylish with ribbons Macy’s West styles, making these modern looks and satin trims,” he asks. their own. Julian thinks a lot of Sleeve detail further spurs the more modern silhouettes have In Brief interest. “I’ve seen more of the innovative – from 3/4 become ageless in the eye of women consumers. convertible cuffs to satin trim and sheer insets. Many After all, he says, the baby doll is billed as the mainstream bridge collections can look new and ‘Desperate Housewives’ or ‘The Real Housewives ● ZALE CLOSURES: Zale Corp. said Wednesday it will close 105 distinct with the addition of a fancy white blouse.” of Orange County’ top. stores and cut 20 percent of its headquarters’ staff to streamline By far, most women (69%) prefer their dress “The personalities wearing these key pieces help operations to generate $65 million in yearly savings. The com- shirts to be made of cotton, according to Cotton to reinforce the fashion factor,” Julian continues. pany said $5 million in savings will be realized in the fourth quarter ending July 31 from the restructuring. The Dallas- Incorporated’s Lifestyle “For summer dressing, TM based jewelry chain said some of its planned operational ini- Monitor study. And Fiber Most Prefer Dress Shirts to Be Made Of women seem to gravitate tiatives, reduction of $100 million in inventory and reduced among those aged 16- towards these sexy tops.” spending from $85 million in fi scal 2008 to $45 million in fi scal 24, 76% prefer cotton. Total 16-24 25-34 35-55 At Lord & Taylor, 2009, were announced previously. Of the 105 locations, 95 are At Lord & Taylor, the modified poet shirt considered underperforming and 50 are kiosks. The company, LaVelle Olexa, senior Cotton 69% 76% 64% 69% from proprietary brand cutting 225 jobs, has already eliminated 140 fi lled positions and vice-president, says the Silk 16% 21% 18% 14% Context is an example of 85 open posts at headquarters. “In order to improve Zale’s over- white shirt is a timeless Polyester 6% 0% 10% 7% a timeless silhouette that all performance and provide our value-oriented customer with piece for every woman. Rayon 3% 5% 3% transcends age. Olexa an exceptional experience, it is essential that we reduce the “The beauty of Linen 1% 3% says other notable styles company’s infrastructure costs, which have outpaced its sales growth since 2002,” said Neal Goldberg, Zale’s president and Lycra/Spandex 1% 1% 2% the white shirt is its include Charles Nolan’s chief executive offi cer.