The Inside: Top Apparel WebPg. Sites 16 PPR NET UP 34.6%/3 KAMALI’S WAL-MART DEAL/4 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The RetaTHURSDAYilers’ Daily Newspaper • February 28, 2008 • $2.00 List Mix Master In the beautiful fall collection he showed on Wednesday, Dries Van Noten displayed his considerable skill at combining patterns, textures and materials. Here, one of his remarkable blends: a multicolored sweater with a fur piece at its neck, worn with long leather gloves and bangles strung into a necklace. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 11.

Bloomingdale’s Moves: Spring, Doroff Promoted To Boost Chain’s Growth

By David Moin loomingdale’s is pumping up its top Bbrass to help drive the department store chain’s growth. Tony Spring has been promoted to president, and Frank Doroff has risen to vice chairman. An announcement on the executive changes is expected today, but additional management-related appointments to further strengthen the team are anticipated in the near future. Both executives continue to report to Michael Gould, Bloomingdale’s chairman and chief executive officer. “This is building the team for the See Bloomingdale’s, Page5 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAYWWD.COM Sportswear PARIS COLLECTIONS delivered a smart, fi nely honed collection devoid of the ™ 6 more fl amboyant fl ourishes he sometimes works into his mixes. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL The fast-growing Bloomingdale’s division of Macy’s Inc. has named Tony WHITE HOT 1 Spring as president and is promoting Frank Doroff to vice chairman. PPR reported that net income last year advanced 34.6 percent to $1.26 Updates to the Classic Shirt Transform a Basic into the Newest Essential 3 billion, thanks to robust luxury business and the integration of Puma. Norma Kamali will create an exclusive line for Wal-Mart that will include The classic white shirt is a staple in every with white embroidery and three-button cuff 4 women’s and children’s wear, accessories, footwear and home items. from and a ruffled, lantern-sleeve woman’s closet. It has achieved iconic status, having EYE: As many attested at the screening of “The Other Boleyn Girl,” 16th- been worn famously by women from Audrey model from Rampage. “New details like bell or century England is not quite as scandalous as modern-day Park Avenue. Hepburn to Sharon Stone. These days though, the flutter sleeves give a fresh update to a basic.” 20 white shirt is taking a cue from other elemental items Gap is so confident consumers will be strong on Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 like the T-shirt – which seasons the white tops that it has a web site To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. ago went from unfussy to fabulous link devoted to “White Shirts.” [email protected], using the individual’s name. – and is standing front and center “For spring there is nothing more WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT in this spring’s line up. cool and relevant then a classic white ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 44. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Never has a basic been less so. Gap shirt,” says Patrick Robinson, one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and This season’s essential white shirts executive vice-president of design. November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services have sleeves that flutter, waists “It’s an iconic style that is sexy when provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. that wrap and eyelet, crochet worn with a great pair of jeans.” Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post and embroidered textures that Gap has no fewer than 15 white Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. invite eyes to linger much as they shirts for spring, from a tuxedo cami Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North would over a blooming garden to a sleeveless sash tunic to a long-sleeve Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR on a summer’s morning. button-front that’s updated with a BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289- 0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy Tom Julian, director of trends fitted silhouette and stretch cotton. of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production at McCann Erickson, says All these options mean women correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other designers are realizing basics will likely be making room in their Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list invite experimentation. closets for a new blouse or two. On available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA “With all the luxury influence average, women own 10.7 dress shirts, 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, over the past two years, what better according to the Monitor. Women 56- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED item to take and upgrade than the “The perfect white shirt becomes 70 own the most (12), those 25-55 MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR white blouse: from the fanciful – a wardrobe essential to balance own 11, and those 16-24 have 9.5. CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY like a formal tux – to the artful with the season’s brights.” And no matter what their age, A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. origami pleats, to the utilitarian with — Tifani Wilt, women are purchasing a variety of stretch, to the stylish with ribbons Macy’s West styles, making these modern looks and satin trims,” he asks. their own. Julian thinks a lot of Sleeve detail further spurs the more modern silhouettes have In Brief interest. “I’ve seen more of the innovative – from 3/4 become ageless in the eye of women consumers. convertible cuffs to satin trim and sheer insets. Many After all, he says, the baby doll is billed as the mainstream bridge collections can look new and ‘Desperate Housewives’ or ‘The Real Housewives ● ZALE CLOSURES: Zale Corp. said Wednesday it will close 105 distinct with the addition of a fancy white blouse.” of Orange County’ top. stores and cut 20 percent of its headquarters’ staff to streamline By far, most women (69%) prefer their dress “The personalities wearing these key pieces help operations to generate $65 million in yearly savings. The com- shirts to be made of cotton, according to Cotton to reinforce the fashion factor,” Julian continues. pany said $5 million in savings will be realized in the fourth quarter ending July 31 from the restructuring. The Dallas- Incorporated’s Lifestyle “For summer dressing, TM based jewelry chain said some of its planned operational ini- Monitor study. And Fiber Most Prefer Dress Shirts to Be Made Of women seem to gravitate tiatives, reduction of $100 million in inventory and reduced among those aged 16- towards these sexy tops.” spending from $85 million in fi scal 2008 to $45 million in fi scal 24, 76% prefer cotton. Total 16-24 25-34 35-55 At Lord & Taylor, 2009, were announced previously. Of the 105 locations, 95 are At Lord & Taylor, the modified poet shirt considered underperforming and 50 are kiosks. The company, LaVelle Olexa, senior Cotton 69% 76% 64% 69% from proprietary brand cutting 225 jobs, has already eliminated 140 fi lled positions and vice-president, says the Silk 16% 21% 18% 14% Context is an example of 85 open posts at headquarters. “In order to improve Zale’s over- white shirt is a timeless Polyester 6% 0% 10% 7% a timeless silhouette that all performance and provide our value-oriented customer with piece for every woman. Rayon 3% 5% 3% transcends age. Olexa an exceptional experience, it is essential that we reduce the “The beauty of Linen 1% 3% says other notable styles company’s infrastructure costs, which have outpaced its sales growth since 2002,” said Neal Goldberg, Zale’s president and Lycra/Spandex 1% 1% 2% the white shirt is its include Charles Nolan’s chief executive offi cer. versatility – it adds Nylon 1% 1% big shirt with oversized strength to whatever Satin 0% 1% cuffs and his classic ● WET SEAL EXIT: The Wet Seal Inc. chief operating officer it’s paired with,” Olexa Other 2% 0% 2% 2% three-button cuffs, the Gary White has resigned to become chief executive officer of asserts. “It adds depth short-sleeve pieces from United Retail Group Inc., a subsidiary of Redcats USA Inc. when mixed with Hugo Boss and a great The company does not plan to replace White, who was hired black, and crispness when mixed with denim. mandarin collar style from Lafayette 148. in 2004. Ed Thomas, Wet Seal’s ceo, indicated that he will as- It feminizes everything if it has ruffles, or it adds At the Copper Penny, a boutique in Mt. sume some of White’s duties and will distribute others among masculine impact when it has an outstanding collar Pleasant, SC, a number of white shirts fill the company managers. Wet Seal, a retailer of young women’s con- temporary apparel and accessories, operates 494 stores in 47 and cuffs. The white shirt encompasses many styles store, says Margaret Tanner, store associate. states, the District of Columbia and Puerto Rico. from conservative classic to tailored to modern “Already, we have a lot of white shirts in, so minimalism, even to punk, a la Patti Smith.” it’s definitely an important item this year,” she Sales of woven blouses and shirts increased says. “We have a collection of cotton tops by Trina 9% in 2007, according to NPD Fashionworld’s Turk, that wrap around the stomach and flare out. AccuPanel data. The biggest age-group increase And we have some white, cotton Milly blouses Corrections was among women 25-34, whose sales grew 12%. with pearl buttons and 3/4-length sleeves.” The photographs that appeared on page 11, Wednesday, were African American purchases increased 20%, while Says Julian: “Designers and merchandisers have taken by John Aquino. The credit was inadvertently omitted. sales among Asian/Pacific Islanders increased a embraced the female voice when it comes to what’s ● ● ● substantial 37%. next and it is apparent their calls for a white blouse Callenen, a division of Timex, holds the watch license for Mark Ecko watches. The name of the licensed brand was incorrect in a At Macy’s West, Tifani Wilt, women’s fashion story have been heard.” story on page 14, Monday. director, explains why the white shirt zoomed This story is one in a series of articles based on find- ● ● ● from a basic to an essential this year. On page 36 of the Feb. 11 WWDAccessories, sunglasses by Moscot “Spring ‘08 is filled with so much color, the perfect ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ should have been credited as Chris Benz for Moscot. Another pair white shirt becomes a wardrobe essential to balance tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these should have been credited as by . the season’s brights,” she says, adding, “Femininity pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it is key. So, bib details, embroidery and ruffle accents relates to the American consumer and her attitudes give this season’s ’must-have’ a new twist.” and behavior regarding clothing, See all the fall 2008 collections and read Macy’s offering includes a short-sleeve, ruffled bib appearance, fashion, fiber selection and WWD’s reviews, reportage and analysis tie-front style from INC, a long-sleeve white shirt many other timely, relevant subjects. PARIS fall ’08 at WWD.com/fashionweek/fall2008. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 3 WWD.COM PPR Income Jumps 34.6 Percent in ’07 By Robert Murphy Recurring operating income at Gucci to grow in the island nation by migrat- Group bounded 29.3 percent to 731 mil- ing more upscale. “It’s moving more to PARIS — Business may be cooling in lion euros, or $1 billion, led by excep- high luxury from mass luxury,” he said America, but PPR chief executive officer tional growth at as well as of the market. François-Henri Pinault on Wednesday sustained momentum at the Gucci brand. Among the so-called “other” brands, said emerging markets like China should Both Stella McCartney and Alexander Pinault singled out Balenciaga for a re- stoke luxury growth this year. McQueen moved into the black last year. markable year. He said the label would Pinault made the comments as he re- The Gucci brand’s operating income continue to accelerate growth by opening ported that PPR’s net income advanced improved 5.7 percent to 647 million stores, including a unit in Los Angeles 34.6 percent in 2007 to 922 million euros, euros, or $886.9 million, from 612 mil- soon. Recurring operating income or $1.26 billion at average exchange, lion euros, or $768.7 million, on sales of among the smaller brands — Boucheron, from 685 million euros, or $860.4 million, 2.2 billion euros, or $3.01 billion, while Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi, Stella thanks to robust luxury business and the Bottega’s operating income jumped 68.9 McCartney and Alexander McQueen integration of Germany’s Puma, which percent to 92 million euros, or $126.1 mil- — reached 33 million euros, or $45.2 mil- PPR bought control of last year. lion, from 55 million euros, or $69.1 mil- lion, from 10 million euros, or $12.6 mil- PPR’s full-year sales, reported last lion, on a 37.1 percent increase in sales lion, a year ago. month, rose 16.1 percent to 27.08 billion to 366 million euros, or $501.7 million, YSL Beauté — for which PPR in euros, or $18.39 billion, from 17.03 billion from 267 million euros, or $335.3 million. January reached a strategic alliance with euros, or $21.38 billion, a year earlier. Losses narrowed 35.4 percent at Yves French beauty giant L’Oréal to sell some “It was an excellent year,” said Pinault Saint Laurent to 32 million euros, or $43.9 parts of the business and license out of the results, which exceeded most ana- million, from 49 million euros, or $61.5 other core brands like YSL, Boucheron lysts’ expectations and drove PPR’s stock million, on a 13.9 percent rise in sales to and Stella McCartney — saw its operat- up 0.73 percent to 96.19 euros, or $143.32 221 million euros, or $302.9 million, from ing income improve to 65 million euros, at current exchange, in trading on the 194 million euros, or $243.7 million. But or $89.1 million, from 32 million euros, or Paris Bourse. while PPR lauded great gains at the icon- ic brand, it again declined to pinpoint a breakeven date. Trading is good so far. We are waiting for a “[The breakeven schedule of YSL] “ has haunted me since Dec. 14, 2004,” said Gucci Group chief executive slowdown because the luxury market will be impacted Robert Polet, referring to the date he disclosed his strategic plan to rev up by the slowdown [of the economy] in America. the luxury business. — François-Henri Pinault,” PPR Polet said PPR’s recent deal to sell YSL Beauté to L’Oréal should accelerate YSL’s breakeven quest as the licensing “We are waiting for a slowdown because $40.2 million, last year. revenue from YSL perfumes now will be the luxury market will be impacted by the Pinault said the company could con- pumped back into YSL’s fashion coffers. slowdown [of the economy] in America.” tinue to divest businesses considered “[The deal with L’Oréal] should help Pinault added that robust expansion noncore. And he said acquisitions were YSL reach profi tability quicker than we in Asia — in particular China — would a possibility, too, especially since recent thought a year ago,” said Polet. “That’s buttress Gucci against vagaries in the market turbulence had wiped out a lot of the most diplomatic way of saying [when economy elsewhere. “The Chinese clien- value from certain players. breakeven may occur].” tele is radically different,” he said. “They “We could be interested in making The specter of a luxury slowdown are attracted by fashion and newness. We an acquisition in watches,” said Pinault, hung over much of the presentation, with are very optimistic for growth in Asia.” adding that was one of the areas in which analysts asking Pinault to repeatedly de- To wit: Pinault said of the 17 new stores Gucci Group remained underrepresented. liver projections. planned for Gucci this year, six are ear- Among PPR’s other businesses, results Pinault dismissed an apocalyptic read- marked for China. Of the 12 stores planned were mixed. Operating income dropped ing of market conditions and said luxury to open for Bottega, three are in China. 8.7 percent to 168 million euros, or $230.2 sales in America continued to expand in “Asia-Pacifi c will be the growth motor million, at the Conforama furniture chain the fi rst part of the year. in the coming years,” said Pinault. “Gucci and declined 15.9 percent to 187 million “It’s less than last year, but still sig- has a lot of resonance with the Chinese.” euros, or $256.3 million, at the Redcats nifi cant,” he said, while admitting, “Our The health of the Japanese luxury mail order business. mall-based businesses such as Puma are market was another concern among ana- Meanwhile, the Fnac music and book feeling a slowdown.” lysts. Japan has been a diffi cult market chain saw operating income improve 15 Pinault said Gucci Group sales should for many luxury brands for the last 18 percent to 199 million euros, or $272.8 A fall 2007 look expand faster than the market this year, months, given a shift in consumer tastes million, while income advanced 27 per- from Gucci. with 7 percent growth a “realistic” target. and the diffi cult economy. cent to 232 million euros, or $318 million, “Trading is good so far,” said Pinault. Pinault said Gucci has continued at the CFAO African trading operation. Nielsen Survey Finds Gucci Atop Luxe Heap By Andrew Roberts grown steadily in more mature markets. Luxury sales are forecast to grow more than 20 per- Gucci chief executive offi cer Mark Lee told WWD cent in China and 9 percent in Russia this year, accord- — Gucci remains the world’s most coveted luxu- earlier this month that the company planned a swath ing to Merrill Lynch, and with demand accelerating in ry brand, according to a recent market survey. of store openings in emerging markets this year, in- less saturated regions, notions of luxury are evolving. In an online poll of 25,000 consumers in 48 countries cluding two in India, and others in Macau, Prague “A luxury brand is simply something that consum- conducted by market research fi rm The Nielsen Group and Budapest. ers, especially in emerging markets, are willing to pay in November and published Wednesday, one in fi ve re- Lee will be hoping to tempt the 41 percent of Indians a signifi cant premium for,” Dodd said. spondents said they would choose to buy Gucci over and 37 percent of consumers in the United Arab To wit, 35 percent of respondents said they would any other luxury brand if money were no object. Emirates who told Nielsen they would choose Gucci if buy a mobile phone if it were cobranded with a luxury and Calvin Klein tied for second place, fol- money was no concern, and further tap almost a third brand — a product extension that already has been lowed by Louis Vuitton, Giorgio , Christian of consumers in the UAE and who said they rolled out by a number of leading fashion companies. and Versace. already buy Gucci merchandise. For example, Dolce & Gabbana’s cell phone has been Gucci, which is owned by French retail group PPR, “Shopping is a way of life in these countries, and a huge commercial success, and last year Prada sold shared fi rst place with in the same sur- luxury brands are an essential part of the population’s more than 700,000 of its 600 euro, or $891 at current vey two years ago. wardrobe, even if it comes in the form of a key chain,” exchange, touch-screen handsets, which was produced “In the past two years, Gucci has managed to main- Dodd said. by electronics giant LG Group. Industry experts pre- tain and even increase its brand equity in a very com- While Gucci topped the survey overall, consumer dict that by 2011 more than 200 million cell phones a petitive and fi ckle industry,” Nielsen European presi- aspirations differed regionally. Ignoring one’s bank year will come from nontraditional brands, including dent Patrick Dodd said. “They have achieved this by balance, Chanel was the top pick among Chinese con- fashion labels. consistently embedding their core brand values in all sumers; Christian Dior was number one for Russians; And the rush for new product extensions is unlikely their branded products, which range from perfume and Louis Vuitton was the favorite of Hong Kong and to stop there. sunglasses to accessories, jewelry, handbags and ready- Filipino shoppers; Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein and One in three of those surveyed by Nielsen said to-wear fashion.” Yves Saint Laurent were most sought after by Latin they would buy a cobranded luxury designer laptop Gucci designer Frida Giannini’s vision of luxury American consumers, and Hermès was the brand of computer, one in four said they would buy a designer may not be everyone’s cup of tea — her bohemian rock choice for the Japanese. fl at-screen TV and one in six even said they would ’n’ roll women’s collection for fall confounded some At the other end of the scale, and notwithstanding like to buy designer-branded MP3 players and kitchen critics in Milan, for example — but few can deny she the economic slowdown in the U.S., North American appliances. knows what sells. Since Giannini took sole control of consumers were the least interested in luxury brands. “There seems to be a huge market potential for lux- the design helm two years ago, business has boomed More than a third of those surveyed said they would ury brands to [invade] every corner of the home and in Asia-Pacifi c, Russia and the Middle East, and has “not buy any,” even if they had deep pockets. offi ce,” Dodd said. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 WWD.COM Kamali to Design Line for Wal-Mart Limited Brands’ Net Falls 11.6% By Marc Karimzadeh “I’m not sure the customer will know the name,” she said. “They are going to have to build a lot of As Fourth-Quarter Sales Weaken ake no mistake, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. is serious marketing around it.” By Arthur Zaczkiewicz Mabout fashion. Wal-Mart’s fashion profi le is rising as rival Target Norma Kamali will create an exclusive collec- Corp. has lost , who is departing to hefty boost from consumers who failed to fully redeem tion for the world’s largest retailer in an agreement take over the brand. In the next few Atheir gift cards at Victoria’s Secret was not enough to lift brokered by Cherokee Inc. The licensing deal is months, the Bentonville, Ark.-based retailer will Limited Brands Inc.’s fourth-quarter earnings, which fell 11.6 long term, and the designer will establish a lifestyle introduce Ocean Pacifi c and L.E.I. , and it percent on weak sales. brand under her own name that will encompass cat- also is preparing investment in athletic apparel and But for the yearend period, several big gains offset restruc- egories such as women’s wear, children’s clothing, shoes and licensed goods. turing charges and led to a 6.3 percent net income gain. accessories, footwear and home — all at Wal-Mart’s Wal-Mart said this month that early spring sales For the fourth quarter ended Feb. 3, the retailer’s net in- mass prices. of its private label apparel, where key items cost come dropped to $388.6 million, or $1.10 a share, from $439.8 At a time when some retail chains are reconsid- $10, were “very promising as a leading indicator,” million, or $1.08 a share, in the prior year on sales that fell 18.6 ering the merits of long-term fashion lines by mar- while Citigroup downgraded Target’s stock after percent to $3.28 billion from $4.02 billion. Same-store sales de- quee designer names, Wal-Mart appears to be mov- fi nding fault with the fi rm’s women’s apparel offer- clined 8 percent during the quarter, and the gross margin rate ing full-steam ahead with the concept. More deals ings. shed 28 basis points. are in the pipeline, sources said. Kamali is an industry icon who burst onto the For the year, net income rose to $718 million, or $1.89, Kamali told WWD on Wednesday that she fi rst scene some four decades ago. She made a splash from $675.7 million, or $1.68, in the prior period on sales that met Wal-Mart executives two in 1980 when she introduced fell 5 percent to $10.13 billion from $10.67 billion. years ago, but nothing came of a sportswear collection using Net sales for the year include results from Express it until talks picked up again re- Norma Kamali gray sweatshirt fl eece. It was an through July 2007 when the specialty chain was turned over cently. She was intrigued by Wal- instant hit and won her a Coty to Golden State Capital Network and its investors following Mart’s reach, which may enable Award in 1981. She also is known the sale of the brand. her to have an impact in house- for her parachute dresses and For the year, results were bolstered by several gains holds across America. sleeping bag coats and, in the relating to refi nancing, taxes and other benefi ts that to- “I saw this as an opportunity Nineties, launched the OMO Gym taled more than $550 million. Results were offset by a $47 for me to put together a lot of the activewear collection. million restructuring charge and a second quarter pre- things I am personally interested More recently, Kamali has tax loss of $73 million relating to the selling of a 75 per- in,” said Kamali, who has been a devoted much time to wellness cent stake the group had in Limited Stores to Sun Capital proponent of wellness concepts concepts, and last year opened a Partners Inc. and has incorporated them in Wellness Cafe in the rear lower In the fourth quarter, Limited said results include a pre- her collections and at retail. “I area of her multistory boutique tax gain of $47.8 million “related to the recognition of initial feel that, at this point in my life, on West 56th Street in Manhattan. gift card breakage at Victoria’s Secret.” I have an opportunity to take all She also has devoted much time As way of guidance, the retailer said it “expects February of the things that I like to do, and to teaching and mentoring chil- comps in the negative low-double-digit range versus its previ- help women not just feel good, dren in the public ous guidance for negative mid- to high-single-digit comps.” but also with their image and school system. First-quarter earnings per share are expected to range self-esteem. You have an envi- In recent years, Kamali has between 5 and 10 cents, which compares with 13 cents in the ronment where you can reach a been involved in several projects same period last year. For the full year, EPS is pegged at a lot of people.” that have been phased out. She range between $1.35 to $1.55. Kamali said she always want- designed a special collection for A conference call to discuss results is scheduled for today. ed to do a line at the mass level the Spiegel Catalog called Norma because “the balance is fantas- Kamali Timeless, and created a tic. There are always things you want to do at a contemporary collection for Moret Group’s Everlast great price and can’t, because you don’t have the division, which was doing about $15 million annu- volume.” ally. This month, Kamali split from Moret Group’s House Extends Andean Trade Pact The designer didn’t disclose details about the Everlast division after three years at retail. By Kristi Ellis collection, but said it will be centered around fash- “Norma was great. She did some great work for ion essentials. “It’s commodities that are appropri- us, but she started going in a new direction so we WASHINGTON — The House passed a 10-month extension of ate for everybody’s wardrobe,” she said of the col- both agreed to terminate our relationship,” said trade benefits for Colombia, Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador on lection, which she chose to call Norma Kamali. Gary Herwitz, chief operating offi cer of The Moret Wednesday, a move sought by apparel importers and textile “It was my idea because it’s my name,” she said. Group. producers that benefit from the trade program. “I am doing this, and I feel that it’s something peo- Robert Margolis, chairman and chief executive The bill was approved by voice vote under special rules ple should know I am doing. I will also carry it in offi cer of licensor and brand management company that limit debate and require a two-thirds majority. my store, because I am proud of it.” Cherokee, said, “This landmark deal combines the The preference program, which gives duty-free status to Wal-Mart is “a very interesting situation and a talent and expertise of Norma Kamali with Wal- apparel that is made in the four Andean countries and ex- new kind of venture for them and for me, and I like Mart’s reach and vision. We believe this partner- ported to the U.S., could still lapse if the Senate does not act this new experience,” Kamali said. “We are starting ship will deliver extraordinary results and will far quickly to allow President Bush to sign it before it expires with women’s and focusing on setting up an agenda surpass any third-party partnerships we have facili- on Friday. That has many apparel importers and textile mills for women’s and take it from there. If it’s something tated to date.” nervous about the loss of duty-free benefi ts and the potential that fi ts the store and works, I have the opportunity Wal-Mart’s efforts with designer and trendier drop in orders from the region. to present whatever ideas I have.” fashions have had mixed results. Its Metro 7 line U.S. apparel importers shipped $1.23 billion worth of ap- Dana Telsey of the Telsey Advisory Group said, launched in 500 doors, and expanded to 1,500 doors parel made in the Andean region to the U.S. in 2007. Apparel “Wal-Mart is getting quite fashion savvy, so it could too quickly, which proved to be a mistake. It scaled imports from the region fell 14.3 percent on a volume basis be a good move for them. It will be really interest- back the line to 500 doors, and Metro 7 is said to in 2007, primarily because of the uncertainty associated with ing to see how they price the line.” be doing much better. The discounter’s tailored short-term extensions of the program. Telsey added that she also will be interested to George ME by Mark Eisen collection, meanwhile, Domestic textile producers also benefi t from the initia- see how mass customers react to the Kamali name. fl opped at retail and was discontinued last year. tive because the rules require that U.S. importers largely use American-made fi bers, fabrics and yarns in the ap- parel they make in the four Andean countries. But textile fi rms have been hurt by the decrease in apparel imports from the region. They exported $190 million in yarns CFDA Awards: New Format, Same Venue and fabrics to the region last year, down from $207 mil- lion in 2006, according to the National Council of Textile NEW YORK — Change seems to be a buzzword format, we will be able to be more casual, but Organizations. these days, and it’s now extending to the 2008 still very chic.” Although business groups had pressed for a longer ex- CFDA Fashion Awards. Swarovski will continue to underwrite the tension, most apparel and textile companies supported the The Council of Fashion Designers of event, and T-Mobile is returning for the second short-term extension to avoid a lapse in the benefi ts. America event will be back at the New York year as the sponsor of the special viewing party. “Everyone would have preferred a longer extension, but Public Library on June 2, but this time, it Details of this party, which has taken place at 10 months is probably enough to give companies the com- will come in a new format. Rather than the Astor Hall for two years, are still being deter- fort they need,” said Julia Hughes, senior vice president of usual cocktail reception at the library’s Astor mined. KCD is producing the awards, with art international trade at the U.S. Association of Importers of Hall, arriving guests will move straight to the direction by Laird + Partners. Textiles & Apparel. “A lot of production that comes out of Celeste Bartos Forum for a theater-style show. CFDA members as well as invited retailers, the region is cotton knits and we are right at the place where After the last award is presented, they will stylists and editors can vote for the nominees companies are starting to get deliveries for late spring and move to dinner at the adjacent Bryant Park and honorees electronically until 11:59 p.m. summer production, which is why it is pretty important to get Grill restaurant, which the CFDA is taking on Wednesday. Some 800 people are expected this completed quickly.” over for the night. to vote. Cass Johnson, president of NCTO, said “There is already a By nixing the traditional dinner inside the The nominations will be unveiled at a business risk with these short-term extensions, which causes library, the industry organization will be able party hosted by Swarovski and the CFDA importers to shy away from placing more orders in the region to change the seating footprint and can accom- board at the Rooftop Gardens at Rockefeller and U.S. textile producers to lose business.” modate 500 guests as opposed to 450 in previous Center on March 10. Von Furstenberg, Kolb, The Bush administration and many business groups have years. CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg Francisco Costa, Isaac Mizrahi, Reed Krakoff, pressured Congress to make the Andean trade benefi ts perma- has spearheaded the creation of the concept. Phillip Lim and Rag & Bone’s David Neville nent through bilateral free trade agreements. Bush recently “It’s a fresh way that still connects to the his- have been tapped to reveal the nominees and signed into law a free trade deal with Peru, but a free trade tory we have with the library,” said Steven Kolb, honorees. pact with Colombia, which the administration wants, has been the CFDA’s executive director. “By shifting the — M.K. stymied by assassinations of union activists in Colombia. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 5 WWD.COM Bloomingdale’s Fortifi es Ranks for Growth Push

Continued from page one visited China with an eye for expansion there, as well. ing for $1,000, and Helmut Lang. Doroff added that future,” the 65-year-old Gould told WWD exclusively. “I Overseas expansion isn’t a new notion. Sixteen years Bloomingdale’s contemporary business remains “the have no plans to leave.” ago, Bloomingdale’s almost inked a deal for a store in backbone” of rtw. “We had a very good year with Juicy The 43-year-old Spring, who has been senior ex- Japan, licensed to Tokyu Department Stores, but a se- Couture,” he said, also citing Marc by , ecutive vice president and director of stores since vere recession in the country killed the plan. Diane von Furstenberg, Theory, James Perse, Nanette 2005, becomes the chain’s second in command. A ris- Renovations also have been stepped up, with Lepore, Milly and premium denim. ing star in the organization, Spring has covered a lot major overhauls completed at the White Plains, N.Y., There has not been a vice chairman at of ground at the retailer, holding jobs in operations, and Aventura, Fla., units in 2007, and set for this Bloomingdale’s since 1991, when Lester Gribetz held marketing and buying during his 20 years with the year, at the Roosevelt Field, N.Y., and Sherman Oaks, the title. chain. In his new position, Spring will be responsible Calif., branches. Unlike Spring, Doroff has long been a merchant. for stores, marketing, creative services, fi nance, op- “As Bloomingdale’s grows its presence nationally, the He began his career in 1972 as an executive trainee erations and restaurants. addition of an operating principal will provide the di- with Macy’s and quickly ascended the ranks to senior Spring’s promotion, as Gould said in a letter to em- vision with additional ployees, “ensures that both my short- and long-term management resourc- focus remains on merchandising and human resource es and support,” said Tony Spring Michael initiatives that are critical to our success.” Macy’s Inc. vice chair Gould General merchandise managers, the senior vice pres- Susan D. Kronick, to ident of planning, public relations, press, philanthropy whom Bloomingdale’s and human resources continue to report to Gould. reports. “Tony Spring The president’s post had been vacant since is an exceptional ex- Edwin Holman, currently ceo of Macy’s South, left ecutive who has proven Bloomingdale’s in 2004. himself to be resource- “The Bloomingdale’s brand has enormous potential ful and creative in sup- to grow,” Spring said. “The organization is invigorated porting growth of the by the success we’ve had in new stores, upscale busi- Bloomingdale’s brand. nesses and contemporary brands. The current business He and Mike Gould climate affords us the opportunity to take market share will represent a pow- as a leader in those businesses. Defi ning Bloomingdale’s erful principal team as as an upscale, fashion-forward retailer has made us a Bloomingdale’s contin- more competitive store.” ues to build its market Doroff, 59, was senior executive vice president and presence serving the gmm of ready-to-wear and Bloomingdale’s Direct. His needs of fashion-for- Frank Doroff responsibilities remain the same. Bloomingdale’s ward, upscale custom- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY has been growing its rtw business and building up its ers coast-to-coast.” stable of designer and contemporary lines in the last Bloomingdale’s is on a path to crack $3 billion in vice president and general merchandise manager for few years. E-commerce also is considered a big op- sales within the next few years. It’s estimated that 2007 rtw in 1979. From 1983 to 1988, he was a top merchant portunity and online is the fastest-growing segment volume is $2.6 billion. Of that, roughly $900 million, or at Bullock’s, which eventually merged into Macy’s. of Bloomingdale’s. just more than a third of the total store volume, is in Subsequently, he was chairman of Federated and Allied Over the past two years, Bloomingdale’s has opened rtw, according to market sources. Bloomingdale’s rtw Merchandising Services, and chairman of Bonwit Teller. stores in San Francisco; Costa Mesa, Calif.; San Diego; business includes designer sportswear, contemporary He joined Bloomingdale’s in 1991 as executive vice Chevy Chase, Md., and Chestnut Hill, Mass. With each sportswear (known as Y.E.S.), New View (a mix of de- president and gmm for rtw, fashion accessories and in- opening, the retailer has demonstrated a willingness signer and bridge brands), classic sportswear, dresses, timate apparel. to try new formats, including designer shops, restau- coats and special sizes. Spring began his career at Bloomingdale’s in 1987 rants and innovative facades, and to adapt to units in “The ready-to-wear business is growing, though the as an executive trainee in the White Plains store and a range of sizes. rate of growth has slowed somewhat in this economy,” went on to buying positions in home furnishings. In On Tuesday, Karen Hoguet, executive vice presi- Doroff said. 1995, he was promoted to senior vice president for dent and chief fi nancial offi cer of Bloomingdale’s par- Bloomingdale’s also has been enhancing its image by home furnishings, and two years later became senior ent Macy’s Inc., said the chain still has plenty of room increasing its stable of designer and upscale labels over vice president of marketing. He was elevated to ex- to grow in the U.S. The retailer will open a store in the last few years. “Our average unit retail has been ecutive vice president, added the direct businesses north Phoenix next year. The brand is noticeably ab- growing 8 to 10 percent each season,” Doroff noted. and restaurants to his responsibilities and rose to sent from the Texas and Pacifi c Northwest markets. Among the labels recently added are Lisa Perry, senior executive vice president before assuming his Hawaii is another possibility, and store executives have who designs Sixties-inspired dresses and shifts retail- most recent post.

magazine for women over 40, with the working title of M. A prototype was said Tiffany Sets Site for Smaller Concept Launch to be fi nished by last spring, followed MEMO PAD by a test issue in the fall. (As WWD By Sophia Chabbott reported in December, one source cited MUSICAL CHAIRS: Jann Wenner lost a roundtable billed on the table of iffany & Co. is gearing up to open the first of its smaller concept stores. Rolling Stone executive editor Joe Levy contents page as: “Martha Stewart, three T A 2,600-square-foot unit is planned to open in October in the Americana at Brand, a to Alpha Media Group’s Blender, where friends, a bottle of wine and a burning new retail and residential development by Caruso Affi liated, in Glendale, Calif. Kent Brownridge hired him as editor in issue: sex after 50.”) But sources In October, Tiffany set a rollout of 70 such small-footprint outposts across the U.S. The chief (Brownridge also poached Men’s close to the magazine have heard very stores will only sell women’s diamond, platinum, silver and gold jewelry ranging in price Journal editor James Kaminsky to edit little about the launch since late last from slightly less than $100 to $15,000. The boutiques will not include Tiffany’s higher- Maxim). But Rolling Stone has upped year, when the company laid off a priced statement jewelry or engagement rings. two staffers to fi ll Levy’s slot, and did handful of staffers and shuttered its When the concept was revealed, Tiffany chairman and chief executive offi cer Michael some poaching of its own. First, Eric thirtysomething lifestyle title, Blueprint. J. Kowalski projected the stores would bring in $1,000 a square foot. Bates and Jason Fine were promoted to On Wednesday, the Martha Stewart Beth O. Canavan, executive vice president of Tiffany, said Wednesday that the new executive editors from deputy managing Living executives mentioned nothing concept “is simply a new way of looking at Tiffany and the Americana at Brand is an ideal editors. Fine will still be in charge of about launching titles, nor about folded location to unveil it.” the magazine’s music coverage, while ones — the closure of Blueprint was In 2002, Tiffany launched a 5,000-square-foot store concept that also brings in sales of Bates will continue to edit features mentioned only in passing as chief $1,000 a square foot. The company has 23 of these full-line stores and plans to open fi ve to and national affairs. As for new hires, fi nancial offi cer Hochhauser read seven of them a year until reaching a total of 100. Rolling Stone has added Jason Gay through the company’s fi nancials. The average full-size Tiffany store, of which there are 46, spans about 7,100 square feet from GQ and Michael Endelman from Instead, executives said MSLO’s and generates $2,300 a square foot in sales. The fi rm has one U.S. fl agship located on New Spin. Gay, previously articles editor at areas for growth were in online and York’s Fifth Avenue that is 40,000 square feet, and in 2006, drew $6,200 a square foot. GQ, will join as deputy editor in mid- licensing, specifi cally within subject March. Endelman, who was a staff matters of wedding, whole living and editor at Spin, will become a senior food. The company recently took a Rings from editor in the music department. He 40 percent stake in online wedding the Tiffany will join the Wenner title on Monday. vendor site WeddingWire.com, which Celebration — Stephanie D. Smith complements its existing Martha collection will Stewart Weddings franchise. MSLO also be offered at NOTABLY ABSENT: Martha Stewart acknowledged its Body + Soul magazine the company’s Living Omnimedia executives Susan is a jump-off for expansion into healthy new stores. Lyne, Wenda Harris Millard and Howard living, while its recent purchase of the Hochhauser touted a great 2007 at the Emeril Lagasse brand was described by annual Jeffries Internet Conference Hochhauser as an “asset-light, high- Wednesday afternoon, but one area margin” business worth about $50 of business notably absent from million. “This is a great time for our their discussion was the new upscale company,” said chief executive offi cer women’s magazine said to be in the Lyne. “We restored the revenue base, and works. The company is reportedly in 2007, returned MSLO to profi tability working on a prototype for a lifestyle and positive cash fl ow.” — S.D.S. PHOTO BY RICHARD PIERCE PHOTO BY 6 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 Signature Sensations

Dries Van Noten is known for his mixes of textures and motifs, while Karl Lagerfeld’s calling card is controlled chic. Each designer put his unique stamp on a strong fall collection.

Dries Van Noten: No gray fl annels here. Not content to merely color his woman’s world, Dries Van Noten wants to marbleize, fl ower, engineer, bead and sequin it with remarkable style. Which is what he did for fall to PARIS exquisite effect. Van Noten approached the season fall ’08 feeling that he hadn’t explored spring’s print motif to its fullest, so he made trips to Switzerland and Lyon to scour the archives of the great fabric houses. He came away with rich material, including an old wax printing motif, discoveries he incorporated into his own fabric development, ending with a remarkable assortment so intense — some single prints feature 40 colors — it could easily have exploded into a great big head-spinning mess. Yet for all the euphoria of its materials — even the sequins were printed — a determined control marks Van Noten’s work, which is why the visual opulence never turned gratuitous. Even when prints were combined in layers or within a single garment, there was never a sense of the slightest disorder, let alone of mayhem. The clothes had a refi nement that was more than the sum of their colors. Tunics fl oated gracefully over skirts or pants; serenely shaped column dresses cut to midcalf featured different motifs at torso and hem. Sweaters with webby or graphic constructions lent a cozy side to the pattern play, while the fl ou Dries Van Noten of mousseline and chiffon was kept in check under tailored jackets and aged-looking furs. Certainly the collection had its share of eccentricity; where else have you seen bangle bracelets strung in multiples and tied into necklaces? But Van Noten never sacrifi ced chic for shenanigans, which resulted in a near- perfect fusion of both with urbanity.

Karl Lagerfeld: Karl Lagerfeld is in control. While that’s not exactly a news fl ash, on Wednesday morning, it made for a smart, fi nely honed collection devoid of the more fl amboyant fl ourishes he sometimes works into his mix. The approach proved a savvy call in this season of trendy restraint. Yet, rather than play to the overtly lady-fi ed side of the mood, Lagerfeld took it his way with terrifi c tailoring more befi tting a latter-day power woman than a chichi type, and the clothes looked great. The foundation was a men’s wear inspiration, and almost everything was black, refi ned and lean. Within that framework, two key ideas went off in different directions, sometimes in the same outfi t: Dark, matching jackets and shirts punctuated by a bow tie or two were all no-nonsense austerity, while Lagerfeld’s favorite skirt, narrow through the hips but with a kicky pleated border, swung a bit fl irtatious. The outerwear displayed a similar counterpoint. While, for day, Lagerfeld went trim and shapely, for evening, he preferred the coziness of cropped quilted kimono jackets bordered in fur over Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten pants or languid skirts. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Dries Van Noten Lagerfeld

line Sunday while midtour for her to see anything Lou Eve “Love Letters” lectures. “I’m going to yet,” she cooed. Doillon have to travel back from the middle Designer Fashion Scoops of France at dawn Sunday morning,” Esteban said the actress, who also disclosed Cortazar’s mom, TOP CAT: Hussein Chalayan is expected to be named creative that she’s about to start shooting an jazz singer director of sportswear giant Puma. Sources in Paris said indie fl ick with a young American Dominique the -based designer, who held a runway show for his director. “It’s a big project, but I can’t Vaughan, fl ew fashion line Wednesday, has been tapped by Puma to up the go offi cial yet,” she said, adding that in from Sri lifestyle brand’s style quotient. It is understood that Puma, the entire movie will be shot in a Lanka for the controlled by retail and luxury giant PPR, also will invest in house on the edge of Paris. Scarry, show, dressed Chalayan’s business. Jochen Zeitz, Puma’s chief executive meanwhile, said she’s put her artwork in a vibrant sari offi cer, sat beside PPR ceo François-Henri Pinault at the on hold to design a line of interior and snapping Chalayan show, but both declined all comment. Puma has couture fabrics for the New York- photos like crazy. “We’ll be going been a player in the fashion-meets-sporting goods arena in based silk specialist MacOndo Silks. shopping for things for his new the past, collaborating with designers including Alexander apartment,” she said. Legendary McQueen, Jil Sander and Philippe Starck. Last year it launched TO THE NINES: It looks like Eve has a habit of leaving things embroiderer François Lesage, Urban Mobility, a premium accessories range. It also tapped to the last minute. The R&B queen was escorted to her seat who had come to sniff out the Lydia Hearst to design a handbag collection and fi tness line. seconds before the Emanuel Ungaro show got under way new designer, said his house is Puma and Chalayan are to host a press conference and Wednesday. “We were a little behind schedule,” said the so knee-deep in orders that it’s luncheon today in Paris. songstress of her new album, “Here I Am.” “I’ve been in the looking to expand its atelier. studio nonstop.” “Whereas in my day, there were THE BLUES: Joana Preiss, Fiona Scarry, Lou Doillon and Beatrice Meanwhile, “Heroes” actress Ali Larter and her fi ancé, Hayes two rounds of collections per year, Dalle were among front-row faces at Givenchy Wednesday night. MacArthur, are taking things at a more leisurely pace. “We’ve today there are nine,” he said. Ali Larter Doillon said she had the jitters about presenting her Lee Cooper been at the Plaza Athénée for three days and haven’t been out For more Scoops, see page 10 See all the fall 2008 collections and read WWD’s reviews, reportage and analysis at WWD.com/fashionweek/fall2008. PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008

Multiple Choice went wild and woolly, while Christian Lacroix created some structured looks and Emanuel Ungaro’s Esteban Cortazar kept things calm.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Christian Lacroix

▲ Jean Paul Gaultier ▼

PARISfall ’08

Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier is a with beady little eyes. There were tongue-in-cheek gimmicks, too, like master of the obvious introductory sound cue. the collar-cum-neck pillow shaped like a stuffed tiger or the puffed-up Remember last season’s swashbuckling yo-ho- jacket in an animal print manipulated to look like a wolf ’s head. But ho opener for his all-out pirate romp? This time when Gaultier turned more femme than feral, the results were quite he launched with Michael Jackson’s “Thriller,” pretty, as in the lady-fi ed, pearl-studded Twenties ensembles and gentle complete with howling, growling wolves. Which would explain the avian-print dresses and pants. Unfortunately, these were lost in Gaultier’s brief disconnect when the fi rst model stormed out in a perfectly overcrowded menagerie. A truly hairy experience. tame, downright conservative blouse-and-pencil skirt combo with a parka thrown over it. But once you got a look at her from Christian Lacroix: As his splendid spring couture collection behind, it all clicked into place — a giant real zebra hide was demonstrated, Christian Lacroix is well versed in the power of romance. splayed on the back of the parka with head, tail and limbs But perhaps he overdosed on all the amour, because, for fall, he seemed stretched out like an animal rug. to be feeling more powerful than romantic, a mood he expressed off the Thus the show began with a nimble dance between animal- bat with two stiff, textured white wool coats, one bold with structured kingdom costumery and straight-up sportswear. But restraint, curves, the other severe in its slim cut and strong shoulders. More chez Gaultier, can only last so long. After a few snappy variations came in fuchsia and black, some paired with duchesse satin suitings, a bell-sleeve, knit-and-leather jacket and belted bubble skirts and turtlenecks. The color play was forceful and striking, trenches, things turned indulgently au sauvage. Heavy doses and the silhouettes were pared down by Lacroix’s standards. Together, of animal prints were joined by heavier doses of the real stuff they made for an aggressive vision. in mammoth coats, stoles, fl uffy messenger bags and fur-trapper hats That’s not to say that he cast aside the girlier fanfare — hardly. From WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 9 WWD.COM ▲ Emanuel ▼ Ungaro

Emanuel Ungaro

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY lavish embellishments to dramatic origami-style dresses to exquisite color schemes, Almost everything was based in draping, one of Emanuel Ungaro’s specialities, all of his signature grand gestures were there. But here they came off as darker, though Cortazar’s versions lacked Ungaro’s sensual force. Cortazar proceeded thanks in part to the knee-high glossy black leather boots and severe cabaret-style delicately at fi rst, gently draping slinky silk pants, lots of one-shoulder dresses hair that accompanied each look. Lacroix fringed skirts, blouses and bulky sweaters and fi lmy blouses, many of them accented with cord or rope details. Then he went in black feathers, which also appeared on long gloves and embroidered collars. He out on a limb and got carried away with a wayward string motif and jumbo-size splashed abstract brush-stroke prints on drop-waist velvet dresses and skirts, one twisted knots that edged tight sweater dresses and knit cocoon jackets. Some things, topped with a gleaming gold suede jacket. He combined glimmer and Art Nouveau including the Grecian goddess gowns that appeared throughout, were pretty, but on moody, multicolored printed silk lamé cocktail dresses, some fl ouncy, others they were also predictable. Also tame was the palette of icy pastels, like powder structured. And the color works continued in the fi nale of jewel-tone duchesse satin blue, yellow, pink and silvery gray. And while the occasional blast of magenta on dresses that were artfully poufed, puffed and ruched into dramatic ruffl es and bows. pants or a blazer livened things up a bit, all the languid draping and ultracalm The list of dramatic, eye-catching fi nery goes on, but somehow all that extravagance colors are not likely to get the attention of the bright young things the people didn’t quite add up or dazzle the way a Lacroix collection can. upstairs have in mind. That said, Ungaro’s recent revolving door and the need for resuscitation would weigh heavily on any designer. Certainly young Cortazar Emanuel Ungaro: As the latest designer to take the reins at Emanuel Ungaro, deserves a little time to adjust. Esteban Cortazar has been charged with the not-so-easy task of lifting the legendary house out of limbo. Higher-ups hope the 23-year-old will fare better at luring a younger audience — “chicks,” as chief executive offi cer Mounir Moufarrige recently See all the fall 2008 collections and read WWD’s reviews, reportage said — which they consider the key to revival. In other words, they want a wake-up and analysis at WWD.com/fashionweek/fall2008. call, but what Cortazar delivered was more of a whisper. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 Akris Fashion Scoops

THE LATE SHOW: Balenciaga drew its typical hard- partying crowd Tuesday night. “We got here early because this party is usually messy,” predicted Julia Restoin-Roitfeld. And it seems Kanye West, who That’s Solid swung by Cavalli before joining Charlotte Gainsbourg Black had a strong presence, along with some grays and neutrals, and Nicolas Ghesquière at Le Baron, didn’t get as designers favored simple palettes for jackets with a men’s quite enough shut-eye. The rapper rolled in halfway through Ungaro’s show on Wednesday, discreetly wear fl avor and dresses with more feminine silhouettes. taking a seat on the fl oor.

Akris: The show notes at Akris promised “a new softness.” But Albert HEY, MR. DJ: Hip London soiree Boombox was less Kriemler’s take on softness is still as razor-sharp as ever. The designer built booming than usual at Parisian hangout La Perle on last season’s linear motifs and brought them down a thematic notch for Tuesday night. “I was expecting a giant Star Trek a more polished and refi ned fall outing. There is no denying Kriemler’s console, surround-sound system,” joked Jefferson knack for sharp tailoring, proved here in spades with lean stovepipe pants, Hack, who came armed with bags of vinyl only to perfectly fi tted jackets and trim, crisp coats in a mostly muted palette of fi nd a double CD deck rather than a record player. neutrals, grays and browns. It shone through, as well, in his spare-but- Hack said he would stick to his day job as editor exacting military cuts. Kriemler made a strong and solid case for a of Dazed & Confused magazine — for which he’s narrow, elongated — not to mention polite — silhouette, at times just wrapped a 70-page shoot and interview with accessorized with an ultralong scarf. That linear notion was repeated , photographed by Steven Klein. Meanwhile, in everything from tight knife pleats to vertical strips on sheaths. But just about every Brit in town stopped by. “It’s cool to it’s here, in the tricked-out trappings, that the message got muddled. see so many London people,” said Gareth Pugh as he Ditto for some of the eveningwear with fussy fl ourishes, which don’t took a spin on the discs. “It’s a home from home.” seem suited to the traditional Akris customer. MODEL ACT: Costume National: Austere with a futuristic edge: That was Ennio Coco Rocha takes

▼ will have a go at acting, Capasa’s leitmotif in a collection rife with viable options for girls Akris the spirited model said to the stage. looking for a dark edge. Skirts came with a sculpted wavelike backstage before the detail at the back or pleated, darted and paired with fi tted tunics. Andrew Gn Christian Lacroix show Tailoring was a major story, with high-waisted trousers and sleek Wednesday. When coats offsetting modernist dresses with three-dimensional folds. she’s in New York Capasa, who worked mostly in black, white and blue, called the next, Rocha will seek show Galaxy Couture, though there weren’t many fl ights of fancy. out some lessons and But the designer knows how to keep his feet on the ground. then, “we’ll see. It is just something else Andrew Gn: Opulent finery is right up Andrew Gn’s alley. His to play with. It’s not beautiful and intricate collection catered to a certain uptown gal my ‘life goal.’” Rocha (the kind who still lunches and relies on her personal assistant already has dabbled in to pick up the clothes from the cleaners). A cashmere coat with theater in her native basket-weave collar and cuffs? Gn’s got that. How about a jacket Canada and is known with mink trim? Check. Crave a delicate lace coat? Gn’s your man. for her penchant for The designer said Oscar Wilde’s dandy style inspired the likes of a chic Irish dancing. So being Edwardian jacket and silk blouses with just the right dose of ruffles. onstage is nothing new. Sleek trousers paired with coats with frayed braiding decoration and However, she might try

long, elegant satin gowns, one with shimmering embroidery at the bust, her hand at musicals. DELPHINE ACHARD PHOTO BY further underscored why Gn has become the go-to guy with the social “I like period pieces,” set, who love his couture-inspired clothes. she added.

Loewe: A lilac asymmetric bustier gown in butter-soft napa was one HOMEBODY: Lapo Elkann has an enticing proposition. fine indication of the direction in which Loewe’s new creative director, Select editors have been invited Friday to check out Stuart Vevers, wants to take the Spanish leather goods house, lightening his latest designs for Italia Independent at his Paris up its core pieces. The styling of his first collection’s 20 looks further apartment, which overlooks the Invalides Esplanade. underlined the point, pairing an old-school, full black lace skirt with a slim Among Elkann’s glitzy neighbors are Antoine Arnault, gold and chocolate lamé blouse, for example, or boyish riding boots with Marisa Berenson and Carine Roitfeld. a ladylike silk faille bow dress. Men’s wear references were rife, seen in a chunky alpaca wool jacket, say; wool pleat-front pants, or a green leather SWAN SONG: Swarovski, the Austrian crystal giant, parka worn over a mini. Of the broad leather goods assortment, highlights will unveil its new Swanfl ower monogram tonight included a toffee-hued ponyskin handbag hand-painted with the line’s at the Show Case venue on Pont Alexandre III. The signature scarf motif, as well as an oversize ostrich travel bag in deep navy. design will be showcased on a new line of crystal and leather accessories on display at the event, Azzaro: Vanessa Seward has made sultry glamour her calling card. The which will include a concert by Rihanna. Featuring designer continued to turn up the heat at Azzaro via sexy minidresses a rotating quartet of various-sized swans, which with plunging backs and beguiling Empire-waist gowns dappled with has been the brand’s logo signature since 1989, rhinestones. Tunic minidresses, halter styles and a short jacquard the fl owerlike motif was designed by Swarovski’s lamé number rounded out Seward’s seductive looks. creative director, Nathalie Colin Roblique.

SMOKE SIGNALS: Every store is his castle for , who, despite France’s new smoking ban, puffed away on his trademark cigar at the Just Cavalli boutique opening in Paris on Tuesday. And, if the after party at cabaret Crazy Horse is PARIS any indication, Cavalli’s nightclubs, opening later this year, will be just as happening. “Well, he’s got fall ’08 vodka already, so it’s a natural transition,” noted Tinsley Mortimer, who has turned her hand to diet advice, contributing to the upcoming book, “The Park Avenue Diet,” by Stuart Fischer, M.D. Cavalli certainly showed a host’s generosity, sharing his cigar with French actress Sara Forestier, who is about to start fi lming with Israeli fi lmmaker Haim Bouzaglo. “It’s a remake of ‘Exodus,’” said Forestier. “But unfortunately without Paul Newman.” The soiree lured in the cognoscenti from the four corners of the map. “Heroes” star Jimmy Jean-Louis has been putting in some legwork for his latest project, “The Ball is Round,” a soccer fi lm starring ex-professional Frank Leboeuf. “I think I may have scared the maid this morning,” said fellow prime-time star Robert Knepper, aka. “T-Bag” the psychopathic murderer on television series “Prison Break.” Knepper is in Paris

See all the fall 2008 collections and read Costume WWD’s reviews, reportage and analysis at Loewe Azzaro National WWD.com/fashionweek/fall2008. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND FRANCK MURA GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND FRANCK GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 11 WWD.COM

Inés Sastre GREAT SCOTT: Forget after-show she said. Scott’s was missing in action, however, at the Crazy parties. ’s groupies, having fl own back to London suffering from a nasty eye infection. Horse. including the French band Rock Out front, the fl amboyant Chinese artist Terence Koh, wearing & Roll, New York deejays the a white Alaïa fur over a leather biker jacket, disclosed he’ll be Misshapes and style blogger working on a line of evening accessories for Dunhill for next fall Cory Kennedy, got mighty rowdy in collaboration with the house’s new men’s wear designer Kim during the countdown to the Jones. “It’ll be all about black diamonds,” he said. Geordon Nicol show, held in the Palais de and Leigh Lezark of the Misshapes, regulars on the fashion week . Musing on the collection’s DJ circuit, said they’ll next play some festivals in Texas and theme and opulence backstage, Miami, followed by April’s Coachella festival, with Justice. While the ever-humble Scott — who Kennedy, who disclosed she has just shot a hair campaign for an later sent models down the undisclosed Procter & Gamble brand, possibly Sebastian, said runway in green dollar dresses she’s been busy organizing a yard sale, to be held at the Hotel Robert Knepper, — revealed his most extravagant Amour this Sunday. “I wanted to sell off all of my old clothes Roberto Cavalli, belonging to be a giant fi berglass originally, but now a few brands have got involved,” she said, Ophélie Winter and bust of his truly. Model Anouck adding that her limited edition Tsubi T-shirt line will be for sale. Jimmy Jean-Louis. Lepère was up to mischief. “I’m PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY gonna go downstairs and steal DIRECT ROUTE: Farida Khelfa, former couture directrice at fi lming Luc Besson’s “Transporter 3.” Prima ballerina Eleonora some artworks,” she said, sporting the show’s cat burglar eye Jean Paul Gaultier, is gunning to direct fi lms. “I’m writing Abbagnato nipped in after rehearsals nearby at Paris’ Opera makeup. The Belgian model remained mum about speculation a screenplay with a friend of mine, and I hope to direct it,” Garnier. Vivica Fox, meanwhile, disclosed she’d be designing that she’s set the date to wed Jefferson Hack this August. Khelfa said at Gaultier’s show Tuesday night. Khelfa said it’s a her fi rst denim and sweatsuit fashion line in December. She Fellow model entertained staff with tales of how drama-comedy, but not a vehicle for herself. Khelfa has a small said she will also be the new host of a talk show program on she recently stepped in for her air hostess mother on a fl ight. “I role in Cédric Klapisch’s “Paris,” with some scenes fi lmed at VH1 dubbed, “Vivica Fox Presents: Styled By.” “Candidates served drinks from a trolley. The guests were very well behaved,” Gaultier headquarters. will be called to style looks for the red carpet,” Fox said. “I feel like Marilyn Monroe,” said actress Moran Atias when her chiffon dress, caught in a draft, started billowing. “And I don’t want to die young.” Atias, who fi nished fi lming “Mother of Tears,” said she was off to start a new fi lm project in Australia. Looking to plant French roots, Paris-based Australian songstress Micky Green said, “I’m getting my visa tomorrow. I can fi nally get an apartment now.” Green’s album, “White T-Shirt,” will be released in the in June.

Roberto Cavalli and Sara Forestier. PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY Vivica Fox PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY

Mickey Green at the Crazy Horse. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE PHOTO BY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 WWD.COM Denim Report DIFFA Duds for a Cause Raw 7 Sings the Blues

By Holly Haber Abi Ferrin’s denim, ostrich, By Ross Tucker DALLAS — The DIFFA Dallas brocade and silk duster. NEW YORK — Contemporary label Raw 7 is bringing its tattoo- and Collection, the annual auction of re- rock ’n’ roll-inspired vision to denim. fashioned denim that benefits AIDS Founded in 2003 by Ofer Ashkenazy, Raw 7 has established a service organizations, attracted more reputation for its graphic cashmere sweaters and tops. The brand than 120 stylists and 500 volunteers has been expanding into new product categories and in October to raise funds for AIDS research. partnered with Israeli intimates company Le Cooper to introduce Dallas, which bills itself as its fi rst collection of lingerie for spring. This will be followed by the the largest chapter of the Design fall introduction of Raw 7’s fi rst denim offerings. Industries Foundation Fighting The decision to move into denim was spurred by repeated re- AIDS, celebrated its 19th annual auc- quests from his retail customers, many of whom said shoppers pur- tion with a circus-size spectacle for chased Raw 7 product along with jeans from brands such as True 1,800 guests that included acrobatic Religion, Seven For All Mankind and AG Adriano Goldschmied, displays, live music and a fanciful Ashkenazy said. runway show spotlighting the refash- “We don’t want to become a denim company,” he said. “But we ioned jackets. thought that if we add an item that would be denim and make Dallas Collection fashions began it a little more special, the consumer would buy it as a novelty life as Arizona-brand denim jackets product.” supplied by J.C. Penney Co. Stylists, Women’s styles will be available in skinny, fl are-leg and basic ranging from local students to well- styles and made from Spanish denim. Wholesale prices range from known designers transformed the $95 for women’s to $120 for men’s. Ashkenazy has opted for a heavily jackets into objects of style, wit and treated wash and fi nishing process, a strategy he believes gives the flamboyance, from a subtle denim fabric a softer feel and will help differentiate it from other basic capelet to a voluminous peacock-em- denim offerings. broidered silk cape. “We wash the fabric, make the pants, spray it with black wax, Badgley Mischka sequined its bake it in an oven then rinse it again,” he said. “Finally, we take jacket with a skull and crossbones, wax paper and iron the jean with it to give it that fi nal shine.” and local real estate broker Shawn The same process is being applied in three different color Christopher Suarez appliquéd a schemes. There’s a blue denim sprayed with black, a black on black big fuzzy yellow SpongeBob across denim and a standard blue denim with only the wax effect. the back of his. Other jackets were The graphic elements from painted, bejeweled, feathered and the brand’s selection of tops will A look from otherwise gussied up or, in some also fi nd their way onto the bot- Raw 7’s cases, reduced to trim on a wholly toms. Ashkenazy said embroi- women’s new garment. dered artwork from the label’s denim. The event on Saturday at the fall collection will be incorpo- Hilton Anatole Hotel here sought to rated as details, including em- net $800,000 for the charity. The fi nal broidered lions, a dagger and tally was not available. Last year’s eagle image and a cross. The im- auction generated $500,000. ages will be tone-on-tone so as to “If we made it [the $800,000 goal] maintain a more subtle and so- that’s great, and if not every little bit helps,” said Gretchen Kelly, phisticated look. the chapter administrator. Rob Early reaction to the line The auction of 10 of the most eye-catching jackets, each bundled Bradford’s has been strong, particularly in with a bonus, traditionally inspire the highest bids. Top honors this jacket. men’s, Ashkenazy said. The line year went to a denim, ostrich and brocade duster lined in printed is also being shown to retail- silk by Dallas designer Abi Ferrin that was paired with a six-day ers in France, Japan, Germany African safari and London stopover that sold for $15,500. and . Ashkenazy said he has Other packages included a trip to Puerto Vallarta, spa treatments booked more than 3,000 pieces, and designer shopping sprees and a trip to the Kentucky Derby. spurring him to move forward Silent auction jackets sold for $150 to $5,000 each. with expanding the denim por- Among the participating designers were Kenneth Cole, who sup- tion of the business. plied his 18th annual jacket, six Dallas Fashion Award winners, in- “We’re already working on our cluding Nicole Miller and Lafayette 148, and dozens of local design- second designs for holiday and ers and artists. with new ideas for fi nishing,” he said. “I don’t want to make it look torn with too many things going on. It’s going to be mostly a cleaner look for now, with a special fi nishing and more hand detail than your basic fi ve-pocket jeans that are out there.” DALLAS PHOTOS BY NAN COULTER DALLAS PHOTOS BY Pepe Jeans Cleans Up Its Act epe Jeans is ramping up efforts to present U.S. broad and offer a lot of things to a lot of different Pconsumers with a more upscale look in the people,” Jbara said. hopes of wooing young contemporary customers Expanded offerings in premium denim lines, who have gravitated toward premium brands. in particular, have eaten into the market share of Hala Jbara, director of market- junior and contemporary denim ing for the U.S., said that last year brands. Juniors brand Mudd there was a concerted effort to has struggled at retail and Jones gradually introduce cleaner and Apparel Group has opted to exit more sophisticated styles. the department store channel for “We’ve stepped away from some of its L.E.I. label in favor of moving the fashion bells and whistles…and into Wal-Mart. focused on the details,” Jbara said. Pepe, on the other hand, is Over the next six months, the vying to keep up with the aspira- results of this back-to-basics push tional qualities desired by its 15- will gain momentum, with new to 24 year-old target customer. product emphasizing subtle de- “The junior customer, they’re tails such as hand abrasion, al- looking at the older girl and see- tering back-pocket designs and ing how she’s dressing, and with hand-washing. Jbara described the cleaner silhouettes she can dress styling as an attempt to achieve a the same way,” Jbara said. more vintage look. The company is backing up The wide selection of denim the fresh image with new market- styles and brands being offered ing. Ashton Kutcher and Daria by retailers has also forced the A style from Werbowy will be the faces of the change. Pepe Jeans. brand in a spring ad campaign. “[Retailers] had to become very — R.T. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 13 WWD.COM The Beat Retailers: Contemporary Brands Need Innovation

By Julee Kaplan will simply buy less.” Josh Sparks, president of the New York-based Rockwood Management Group, which he report cards are in, and merchants say the contemporary market needs fresh consults with contemporary brands such as Trovata and Whitley Kros, agreed prices Tstyles and more price awareness for fall. loom larger in an uncertain economy that forces consumers to tighten spending. After trade shows and runway collections this month that they described as unin- “We have to remain mindful that people just don’t have a ton of money to throw spired, retailers said they want to push designers beyond their comfort zones. The around, which means that customers become more discriminating when it comes to merchants said that explosive growth in the category has caused designers to play it choosing what to buy,” Sparks said. “If you can offer the customer brand identity with safe and stay with proven trends too long. The call for taking more chances is com- a distinct aesthetic that stands out in the crowd — more wearable clothes rather than plicated by a slowing economy in which shoppers are becoming more selective about things just off the runway, a great quality level that is comparative to designer — then their purchases. that will give the customer a reason to buy. If you can offer all of these things at a Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel, said she has price they can afford without making them feel stretched, this could be something re- ally appealing. Unfortunately, most contemporary labels just aren’t getting that.” Sparks stressed the importance of the overall shopping experience during periods Buyers at Lisa Kline are looking for when the economy slows. designers with some lower price points. “In this environment, all categories suffer,” he said. “It’s simply not true that the luxury sectors don’t feel it in tough economic times. Everyone cuts back. So what de- signers need to think about is how to offer something uplifting to customers — offer something that is a diversion from the troubles in their everyday lives. It’s actually very simple when you think about it. Give them something fun, playful and fl attering — an accessible diversion from their everyday lives.” Although Stacey Pecor, owner of the four Manhattan- Olive & Bette’s based Olive & Bette’s stores, said she hasn’t seen customer continues to resistance to higher prices yet, she acknowledged that it’s do well with particularly important now to get personal with customers. Michael Stars. “In tough economic times, it’s all about the emotional con- nection that customers can get when it comes to an item,” she said. “If they feel emotionally connected, they will buy it. That’s why it’s so important to educate your sales team so they can pass the stories behind the labels on to the consumers.” Pecor said she recently took some of her sales team to dinner with Michael Cohen, owner of contemporary T-shirt resource Michael Stars. “Now that they’ve met him, my salesgirls are confi dent that they can tell the customers about him and about his brand, so they are confi dent they can sell the product,” she said. “For example, we know that Nanette Lepore does all of her cut-and-sew in the Garment District in New York and it is a real passion of hers to keep manufacturing alive in New York. These are the kinds of things we like to tell our customers to give them that emotional connection.” Although Pecor said she hasn’t experienced a price re- volt, she acknowledged the challenging environment by buy- ing for the short term and searching for immediate deliver- ies to control her inventory. She said that she still has a lot of open-to-buy for the months of May and June, but she can’t see that far down the road since the economic situation is in fl ux. She said she sees a void in the market for solid T-shirts to wear with skirts, which are just starting to sell again.

BENDEL PHOTO BY JOHN M. ROMAN; KLINE BY CHARLEY GALLAY/GETTY IMAGES CHARLEY GALLAY/GETTY JOHN M. ROMAN; KLINE BY BENDEL PHOTO BY “Skirts are really starting to happen, which is nice, since

I am not advising designers to walk away from bestsellers,“ but evolve them and then add new shapes that are relevant to where fashion is going. — Ann Watson, Henri Bendel” I couldn’t sell a skirt in 2007,” she said. “It used to be all about dresses, so it’s nice to see separates making a comeback.” Echoing other retailers, Pecor said that, although designers are responding to her need for immediate deliveries, they are playing it safe in their designs. “There has to be some more innovation,” she said. “People have to start taking chances, the consumer is demanding something different. I have ombré on the fl oor now and at the trade shows, I was still seeing it for next fall. I have not seen one emerg- ing trend to get shoppers into the store for fall and that really worries me. The popular- ity of the miniskirt came out of tough economic times; we need the next miniskirt.” Many buyers and store owners agreed with Pecor on the overall lack of novelty in the market, adding that rising prices are a major concern. “The [trade] shows need to bring in new designers, something fresh,” said Rachael Henri Bendel would like to see more A look from Robbins Kachko, creative director for Lisa Kline’s namesake boutiques, which are designer innovation in contemporary. Nanette Lepore. based in Los Angeles. “We have our lines that are good — tried-and-true types that will always sell well — but we can’t play it safe because customers don’t want to buy the same things all the time. We [also] need a slightly lower price point, people who become frustrated with designers who are not pursuing new concepts, fabrics and are coming in would rather buy a $200 top than a $350 top. I would tell designers, silhouettes. if you can source it cheaper, that’s my suggestion. At a high price point, we are less “There is an abundance of sameness,” she said. “The market needs to stay fresh likely to sell it out.” and relevant. Many of the collections that had such a successful dress season last year Jeannie Lee, owner of Satine boutique on Los Angeles’ trendy Third Street, was are still doing the same shapes. I am not advising designers to walk away from best- among those expressing frustration. sellers, but evolve them and then add new shapes that are relevant to where fashion “Do something different — we’re not looking for derivative fashion,” she said. is going.” “There are a lot of trends going right now and so many stores want to play it safe, Watson said there is a lesson for other categories in the positive customer response which just feeds this whole thing. If you are going to design and be in fashion, then to knitwear trends, which feature innovation in fabrics and silhouettes. for God’s sake, do something new.” “[For the fall] there is a lot of opportunity in the leather category, and what we Maren Roth, owner of the Rowe boutique in Columbus, Ohio, said fi nding a lower have seen so far is a redo of last year’s leathers,” she said. “We would like to see more price point is a must. quality tailoring, more feminized men’s wear and more print innovation. We would “It would be really nice to see more recognizable brands with a lower price point also love to see newness in color. The contemporary market is still committed to gray option,” she said. “I don’t want to lose the quality, but want to entice shoppers with in all its various shades.” a great product that won’t break their bank on just one item. For a consumer who is Another major issue is rising prices in the contemporary sector, with some fi rms used to spending $60 for a T-shirt, it would be nice to have a $40 option from the previ- reporting increases of 5 to 10 percent for fall. ously priced $60 T-shirt designer. They would only scale back enough where they feel “The contemporary market was originally developed to be accessible fashion and they are still getting contemporary clothing at slightly more affordable prices so they many of the collections are getting more and more expensive, therefore losing their will continue to shop.” original niche in the marketplace,” Watson said. “Customers will not stop buying, they — With contributions from Anne Riley-Katz 14 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 WWD.COM Obituary Conservative Icon William F. Buckley Jr. By Amy Wicks always very “easily defl ated by his wife, Pat.” “I think Mr. Buckley was one of the great Americans and, in NEW YORK — William F. Buckley Jr. — the conservative these trying political times of America, he will sorely be pundit, TV host, author, staunch defender of erudition missed,” Herrera said. “We need more men of erudition and the English language and unabashed bon vivant and who speak in a quiet voice and tell the truth as they see society fi gure — died Wednesday morning, sitting at his it. What can I say? I’ve been an admirer of his work all desk in his Stamford, Conn., home. He was 82 years old. of these years. It doesn’t mean I’ve agreed with every- The founder of the National Review had been ill and thing he’s said. But this great Republican, you must re- had emphysema. Family and friends said his passing member his best friend was a great Democrat, Kenneth could not have happened at a more fi tting place. “He Galbraith; so he was a man like America used to have, was one of the hardest working men of our time,” said politicians. Let’s hope they haven’t all gone with him.” Christopher Hitchens, who is a close friend of Buckley’s added, “This great man will be son, Christopher. “He was always rushing from one thing missed by all of us who knew him and loved him. He will to the next; every minute was booked.” also be missed by the thousands who knew him through Hitchens remembered asking the elder Buckley to his brilliant writing and television programs.” meet for a drink a few times, following television ap- The blogs on the National Review’s Web site (and pearances, but it was never meant to be, as “he wasn’t almost every other site that has a political bent) were someone to just shoot the breeze with.” Hitchens also fi lled with memories and best wishes for Buckley’s talked about his appreciation for Buckley’s long-running family. Joe Klein, a political columnist for Time, on PBS program “Firing Line.” “He really gave people time Wednesday wrote that Buckley was an honest man, an to develop an argument,” he said. “These days, you often actual conservative who, in the end, was “quietly ap- leave a show feeling like you forgot to say something; if palled by George W. Bush’s radicalism in Iraq and when you left ‘Firing Line’ feeling that way, it was your fault.” it came to his federal budget.” Hitchens is writing a piece about Buckley for The That didn’t seem to bother President Bush, who post- Weekly Standard. Separately, Sam Tanenhaus, editor of ed his own words on the National Review’s site. “Bill The New York Times Book Review, is writing a biography. Buckley was one of the great founders of the modern Buckley’s last piece was published on Feb. 2, titled conservative movement,” the President wrote. “He “Fowlerspeak-Goodspeak.” He used the debate between brought conservative thought into the political main- Sens. Hillary Clinton and Barack Obama as an occasion William F. stream, and helped lay the intellectual foundation for to write about “Fowler’s Modern English Usage.” His as- Buckley Jr. America’s victory in the Cold War and for the conserva- sistant, Linda Bridges, said Buckley unfortunately had in 2002. tive movement that continues to this day. He will be re- to dictate his work to another writer, since he broke his IMAGES MARIO TAMA/GETTY PHOTO BY membered for his principled thought and beautiful writ- hand. This spring, Buckley will have a book published ing — as well as his personal warmth, wit and generous about Barry Goldwater, called “Flying High.” And he had in public feuds, including one with Gore Vidal in which spirit. His legacy lives on in the ideas he championed been working on a book about Ronald Reagan; however, they exchanged insults, with Vidal calling Buckley a and in the magazine he founded.” Bridges said she is not sure what will happen with it. “crypto-Nazi” and Buckley calling Vidal a “queer.” Over at theatlantic.com, Andrew Sullivan said he Buckley is survived by his son and grandchildren With his magazine, books and columns, Buckley was could not pretend to have been much infl uenced by Conor and Caitlin, as well as his sisters, Priscilla, one of the nation’s intellectuals and his nasal speak- Buckley. Still, he talked about how Buckley legitimized Patricia and Carol, and brothers Reid and James. His ing style — in which he would raise his eyebrows, cock the concept of a conservative intellectual, helping deep- wife, the well-known socialite Patricia Taylor Buckley, back his head, purse his lips and contort his entire body en and broaden conservative thought. “But Buckley died last April at age 80. — could appear a cross between a man having a seizure knew that all that conservatism needs to survive is the Together the couple were a centerpiece of New York and an aesthete sniffi ng something disgusting. freedom to think and a willingness to rethink and an ea- society through the Seventies, Eighties, Nineties and into “He was such a great wordsmith…,” recalled Aileen gerness to debate. These virtues he exemplifi ed. May we the Noughts, both entertained and entertaining. She was Mehle, also known as the society columnist Suzy. “And all try to recapture them in his vast, choppy wake.” known for her eccentricities; he for tolerating them. He as far as oratory is concerned, he was such a distinctive Hitchens said that, toward the end, Buckley lost some loved music and was a keen sailor with two yachts. speaker that he was imitated. He was mimicked on many of his inspiration. Mehle added that recently she visited The couple married in 1950 and a year later his television programs because of his distinctive style: his him at home, and he seemed really upset. “It was the first book, “God and Man at Yale,” was published. facial mannerisms, his body language, his choice of fi rst time Bill had ever been like that.” Throughout the next fi ve decades and beyond, even words, his raised eyebrows. He was one of the most mim- Funeral arrangements were still being determined until his death, Buckley would write continuously, pub- icked people in the world I think because of that.” Wednesday. lishing everything from thoughtful nonfi ction works to Longtime friend Reinaldo Herrera remembered — With contributions from Amanda FitzSimons mysteries. He ran for mayor of New York and engaged Buckley as having a sensational sense of humor that was and Vanessa Lawrence De Beers Opens First Store in Hong Kong By Constance Haisma-Kwok “We would have been across the globe, including add- pleased if there were a location ing two more units to Taipei, HONG KONG — After two years inside the mall, but the visibility Taiwan, more stores in Russia of searching for an ideal spot, is great here and we think we’re and additional locations in De Beers has opened its first going to be very successful. We Europe and the U.S. (including store here, a 2,200-square-foot are very pleased with the loca- shops in San Francisco, Atlanta, unit located in the bustling tion,” said Leymarie. Dallas and Naples, Fla.). Central district. The store is operated as a “We are going to be in all “We have been looking to franchise by Lane Crawford of the prime locations. These open a store in Hong Kong for Joyce Group, which will open are all the places to be,” said a while, considering what Hong a second De Beers store in the Leymaire, who added that, so Kong is to the luxury market, shopping district Tsim Sha Tsui far, the company has not been but we waited until we found later this year, as well as a store affected by the U.S. economic the right location,” said Guy in Macau, slated to open in a downturn. “Frankly, to date, we Leymarie, De Beers chief ex- few months at one of the major haven’t observed [any impact]. ecutive offi cer. “For us location hotel-casino developments. A It doesn’t mean we won’t ob- is decisive — we would rather spokesman for LCJG said the serve it, but for the time being open later and have the right three shops will serve as an we are quite lucky. We are doing location rather than be in the initial step toward entering the big business in and in Inside De Beers in Hong Kong. wrong location.” Mainland China market. Washington — and New York is The store is situated in the “We will open in China in the doing amazingly well. I think he said. “Here you have a very approached from all sides. The city’s premiere luxury shopping future,” said Leymarie, “But for this is also because there are a knowledgeable clientele who layout has an open plan, and mall, The Landmark, with neigh- now we put the priority on Hong lot of tourists shopping in New knows about jewelry and who modern touches — like etched bors that include competitors Kong.” York due to the attractive dol- knows about diamonds, and glass and sleek black display Tiffany & Co. and Dickson Watch Leymarie declined to provide lar,” said Leymarie. who can afford to buy.” forms — but also features two & Jewellery (which sells such a sales projection for the store, As for Hong Kong, long a The store features a prod- VIP rooms for private viewing. brands as Rolex, Bulgari and but remarked, “We are looking major market for luxury brand uct mix that is 50 percent high While the use of mahogany and Chopard) as well as the Christian for substantial sales. [We expect] jewelry, Leymarie thinks the jewelry and 50 percent “acces- a deep palette are De Beers’ Dior, Valentino and Harvey Hong Kong to be in our top fi ve city’s sophisticated customers sible.” Zurich-based architect signature style, the dramatic Nichols flagships. While the stores in the world.” will be eager to add De Beers Christophe Carpente, who cre- red-black lacquer walls in the new De Beers store also enjoys Currently, De Beers has 23 pieces to their collections. “We ates the interiors for all of De back of the shop are a nod a ground-level location and can stores, with plans to expand currently sell only diamonds Beers stores worldwide, de- to China. “We have used this boast of excellent frontage on to 49 by the end of this year. — priced from $500 to several signed the store. To facilitate rouge-noir lacquer in all of the Des Vouex Road, the only thing it Leymarie said the company, million U.S. dollars — and we “side-by-side” selling, the loose shops, but here it’s more evi- doesn’t have is direct access into which has only had a retail arm believe Hong Kong is a place stones, watches and jewelry are dent, it gives a more Chinese the pedestrian-fi lled mall. since 2002, is rolling out stores where such purchases happen,” displayed in cases that can be fl avor,” said Leymarie.

16 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 WWD.COM

In this Internet Age, who’s doing things right when it comes to selling apparel online? The E-tailing Group, based in Chicago, has released its fi rst- TheWWDList ever “E-tailing Index.” Said president Lauren Freedman, “We are looking for best practices across the Web. To me, it’s the same as a great store. It’s an expression of a brand’s freestanding store, only online.” The study analyzed 100 predetermined retail Web sites’ key pages, the overall presence and execution of merchandising and customer service, and then were given a merchant score. “In apparel, for example, the product page is really critical,” Freedman noted. “People Winning the Customer need to see the use of video, color and whether or not the page is merchandise- heavy. These sites go the extra mile for issues like customer service, where The top retail Web sites featuring apparel ranked by The E-tailing questions are answered through offerings like a ‘Live Chat’ page.” — Cecily Hall Group’s overall merchant scores. QVC.COM Overall merchant score: 86.5 “QVC continues to push the envelope by truly understanding their customers with their successful innovative features and functionality,” said Freedman. She added that the features, such as live TV feeds, the ability to shop in another language, promotions (including “today’s special value” and lunchtime specials) and a brand boutique for individual brands on the site are innovations that help to make the retailer stand out. Plastered 1 across the home page is QVC.com’s latest feature, “New Spring Looks From A-List Designers.” Many designers — including Dennis Basso, Bradley Bayou, Dana Buchman and Marc Bouwer — have sold their creations on the West Chester, Pa.-based site, as have “” season two winner and season three’s . HSN.COM Score: 82 HSN’s “Spring Fashion Week” series is unfolding this week, and some Hollywood names such as Suzanne Somers, Susan Lucci and Beyoncé Knowles’ mother, Tina, have collections featured here. Loulou de la Falaise introduced her fi rst collection of costume jewelry and fashion accessories as part of the series. The site offi cially relaunched last August. Said William Lynch, executive vice president and general manager of 2 HSN.com, at the time, “This site strategically leverages HSN’s extraordinary wealth of video content and TV production knowledge to create a more interactive, accessible and exciting shopping experience for current and future HSN customers.” The home page contains a section titled “Last 12 Items Aired,” which sends viewers directly to items recently shown. REI.COM Score: 80.5 Kent, Wash.-based REI — which stands for Recreational Equipment Inc. — is one of two sports apparel sites to break into the top 10. In addition to REI-branded apparel, the company offers brands such as The North Face, Billabong, Columbia Sportswear and Patagonia. REI is the nation’s largest consumer cooperative with three million-plus members. The site’s features include a section that provides advice on how to select the 3 appropriate gear for various outdoor activities, and its help section includes contact and shipping information, live help and an “order tracking” feature, which allows customers to track their order approximately 48 hours after they place it.

NORDSTROM.COM Score: 80 Long known for its dedication to customer service, Nordstrom is the fi rst major brick-and-mortar retailer in the rankings. The Seattle-based specialty chain reported Monday that for the fourth quarter ended Feb. 2, total sales reached $2.5 billion, down slightly from $2.6 billion in last year’s fourth quarter. Nordstrom currently has a $600 million direct business. With regards to the site, customer service is key: If a shopper would 4 like to return something previously ordered online, a prepaid return label is included with every order. And exchanges are totally free — by mail, by phone or in the store. Additional perks for customers: $5 standard shipping and live chats with beauty and designer specialists. Nordstrom.com also now has a blog, titled “From the Floor,” which features experts talking about the latest fashions from Nordstrom’s various departments. POLO.COM Score: 76 * WWD reported in October that polo.com, with its “merchan-tainment” philosophy, videostreams and custom-made programs, “has become one of Polo’s biggest success stories.” Initially a joint venture with NBC-Lauren Media Holdings and ValueVision Media Inc., Polo paid $175 million to take full ownership of Media last March. “We were able, for the fi rst time, to offer an experience where not only can you look at 5 a sweater or a dress but get the full experience around that dress, as if you walked into a store or stepped into our ad,” David Lauren, the fi rm’s senior vice president of advertising, marketing and corporate communications, told WWD at the time. The Web site is the largest single place to buy Ralph Lauren in the world. The site has had a fi ve-year compound annual growth rate of 38 percent. AMAZON.COM Score: 76 * Seattle-based Amazon.com calls itself “the world’s leading online retailer” and its shopping experience is focused on customer service-friendly components, such as its “1-Click” ordering system, product recommendations, wish lists and order updates, among others. Apparel brands offered from Amazon and its partner sites include Juicy Couture, Calvin Klein, Nicole Miller and BCBG Max Azria, to name a few. Rick Dalzell, who was 6 behind the creation of many of the site’s technical features, left Amazon last October after 10 years of helping to build the company into a $14.8 billion retailer. Noted CIO.com in October, “On his watch, the company’s IT infrastructure has scaled to support $10.7 billion in sales, more than 69 million active customer accounts, 42 product lines from apparel to video games and more than 1.1 million third-party sellers.” NEIMANMARCUS.COM Score: 75.5 † The Dallas-based retailer may have turned 100 years old last year, but it’s been a pioneer of selling luxury and designer products on the Web. Neimanmarcus.com offers unique ways to shop for various apparel categories. For example, women can shop for dresses by either silhouette, 7 occasion, popular trends or by designer names. In the “Swim Shop,” accessories such as sunglasses, hats, shoes and handbags are featured to accompany those interested in putting together an ensemble to accompany a swimsuit. In December, WWD reported that during the fi rst quarter ended Oct. 27, Neiman Marcus said the company achieved Internet sales growth of almost 23 percent to $124.1 million, exceeding its expectations.

WALMART.COM Score: 75.5 † “I have high hopes for apparel,” Walmart.com’s chief executive, Raul Vazquez, told WWD in November. “We need to focus on basics like the stores. That’s very low-hanging fruit for us. That’s why I’m so optimistic about apparel. Apparel is a category that continues to grow online.” The Bentonville, Ark.-based retailer has been willing to take some risks within the apparel category on its site. “Our role as walmart.com is to be 8 innovative,” Vazquez said, noting the Web site will continue to add proprietary apparel labels, like Z.b.d. design, in the months ahead. “If the lines are successful, they will go to the stores.” Key Web initiatives include a site-to-store program, rolled out in July, which takes products available online and ships them to a customer’s local Wal-Mart. A reviews and ratings system went national in July as well. ORVIS.COM Score: 75.5 † The 150-year-old family-owned company, with headquarters in Manchester, Vt., offers outdoor apparel, gear and products through its Web site and growing network of retail shops. The company’s apparel offerings include a collection of wrinkle-free T-shirts, tunics and blouses for women, along with a “travel wear” collection, which features dozens of styles for every destination, climate and activity. The company has unveiled its newly 9 expanded product review system on the site, which is designed to allow customers to provide feedback about and rate Orvis products by writing in, sending pictures or even creating videos. Other sections include a size chart, detailed fabric information and an “easy exchanges & returns” feature.

TARGET.COM Score: 75 As WWD reported Monday, “Wal-Mart’s fashion star is rising just as Target’s appears to be waning.” It looks to be true as well when it comes to the two mass retail giants’ Web sites: Target.com falls slightly behind number eight-ranked Walmart.com. The retailer has worked with designers such as Proenza Schouler and , but these are only temporary offerings, while other private label brands, such as Mossimo, 10 Merona and Cherokee, appear to be duplicating each other’s styles as of late. As for customer service, shoppers can take advantage of free shipping for orders over $50 in categories such as apparel, accessories, jewelry and handbags, among others; the home page contains a “New At Target” section, which highlights the retailer’s latest offerings and the site also carries a section on product safety and recently recalled items. SOURCE: THE E-TAILING GROUP INC., AN E-COMMERCE CONSULTING FIRM; THE STUDY ANALYZED 100 DIFFERENT RETAIL WEB SITES; THE TOP SCORE ATTAINABLE WAS 100 WITH WEIGHTING OF A POSSIBLE 33 POINTS FOR KEY PAGES, 38.5 FOR MERCHANDISING PROWESS AND 28.5 FOR CUSTOMER SERVICE EXCELLENCE; THE AVERAGE SCORE ACHIEVED WAS 67.9; * AND † INDICATE TIES WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 17 WWD.COM

Roberto Verino with a Exhibit Showcases Spanish Designer’s Fashions model on the runway, and one of his By Barbara Barker of international development. designs. “New York is a stepping stone to the MADRID — Spanish designer Roberto U.S. market,” she said. “Our objective Verino is revving up to snatch a piece of is to open a store in the U.S. or shop-in- the American pie with a 25-year retro- shops like we have in El Corte Inglés,” spective running Monday through March Spain’s major department store chain. 10 at New York’s Gabarron Foundation “The exhibition is a statement of qual- Carriage House Center for the Arts. ity and function. There are lots of clothes Verino, 63, said the upcoming exhibi- from the Eighties and Nineties that tion, called “Roberto Verino — 25 Years are still wearable,” said Heras. “It will of Fashion,” represents “an explosion of give the public a chance to see how far recognition, una tarjeta de presentación Roberto has come.” [an introductory calling card]” for the In addition, the company has exclu- brand he founded in 1982. “We are very sive licensing deals for fragrances (fi ve interested in establishing ourselves in women’s scents and two men’s), eyewear, New York. We like diffi cult challenges. watches and ceramic tiles. A home line We are up to the competition there. We’re and children’s wear are on the drawing prepared for the fi ght. board, a spokesman confi rmed. “The American consumer is the Like other major designers here, spe- woman I have always had in mind — cifi cally Sybilla and Adolfo Dominguez, straightforward, sensual, intelligent,” he Verino, who is backed by his own indus- added. trial infrastructure in the northwestern Based on a design philosophy of real region of Galicia, dropped out of Madrid clothes for real women, Verino is con- Fashion Week’s catwalk presentations, sidered one of Spain’s most success- after years of fast-paced, thematic shows, ful designers, marketing his women’s to steer the company’s foreign expansion. and men’s wear collections through 100 The retrospective, fi rst seen in the company-owned or franchised stores in Costume Museum here last fall, features Spain, Portugal, Greece, Mexico, Saudi lush, tailored materials and a timeless Arabia and Jordan. purity of style; signature relaxed shaping ethnic inspirations, and lingerie-infl u- is expected to draw guests including Additional retail franchises are pend- that is generally low on fl ash for coats, enced fabrics. Olatz Schnabel, Verino’s ad face in the ing in Germany, Russia and Latvia, ac- capes, jackets, pants, dresses and sepa- The exhibition in New York will kick early Nineties, and Carlos Westendorp, cording to Linda Heras, Verino’s director rates; mixed lengths and proportions; off with an opening party Tuesday, which Spain’s ambassador to the U.S. Adolfo Dominguez Latest Brand to Make U.S. Mark Web Site Aims for N.Y. Retail Network By Rebecca Kleinman soft, nubby shades, is on display but is not A FEW YEARS BACK, WHEN SCOTT LEE, A NEW YORK for sale as it is in Europe, where stores are University grad, was working in San Francisco as an investment AMERICA HAS A NEW IBERIAN IMPORT three to four times bigger. banker, one of the things he missed about Manhattan was being able — Adolfo Dominguez. Collections are delivered 15 to 20 times to drop into NoLIta boutiques. The publicly owned Spanish megabrand annually. Women’s accounts for about 65 Now that he is back in the city, he has set up Wunderbloc.com, a Web opened its fi rst U.S. store in November in a percent of the offering. site that showcases 16 New York City neighborhoods and 325 stores 6,000-square-foot space next to Nordstrom at Along with three factories in Spain, that are located within them. The free service allows visitors to check the Village of Merrick Park, a lifestyle center Dominguez sources materials such as exclu- out what lies where, and in some cases they can get panoramic views of in Coral Gables, Fla., which attracts foreign sive prints and textured and treated fabrics a store’s interior or buy items online. Phillip Lim, Gigi Boutique, Jean brands testing the domestic waters. from Peru, China and Thailand. Shop, Caravan, Cadillac’s Castle, LainaJane, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Colombia’s Silvia Tcherassi and France’s To illustrate the craftsmanship, Tracy Feith and Cherry are among the store listings. Victoria Casal opened stores at Merrick Dominguez showed a ruched strapless gown, Lee, a fi nance major, was motivated in part by the fact that most Park in 2003 and 2007, respectively, and its violet hue subdued with a dotted mesh independent stores don’t have the fi nancial resources or the techno- Chile’s Mosso is to launch in May. Blumarine overlay, retailing for $644, and a belted, logical know-how to do a major online push as chain stores do. opened its first U.S. “We are about empowering the local boutique community and level- store at Merrick Park in Adolfo Dominguez’s store in Florida. ing the playing fi eld,” he said. “Even if you have $50,000 to launch a Web December and Carlos site, with the Internet, that can be like throwing a pebble in the ocean.” Miele will unveil his sec- By pooling together multiple boutiques, Lee aims to create an on- ond U.S. unit in March. line destination for shoppers that gives store owners the opportunity Dominguez, president to network with other boutique owners, recruit guest designers and of the company that bears collaborate on street-side runway shows, fashion show brunches and his name, chose the loca- other events that are already happening in their areas. tion because it attracts By “claiming” their individual listings — something 90 stores have al- Latin American custom- ready done — stores can edit the content to include store news, upload ers, as well as for its product images and tweak things any way they choose to — at no cost. peaceful garden setting. For a more editorial feel and to provide a better sense for the vari- He said the store should ous neighborhoods, Wunderbloc has a Fashionista section where visi- do more than $2 million tors can check out people’s street style. It is along the same lines of New in fi rst-year sales. York magazine’s Look Book — random pedestrians pose for photos and “Shopping should be dissect their attire by designer or brand. Clearly, Lee, whose West Coast the opposite of work,” job was at Montgomery said Dominguez, who & Co., the fi rm that sold A shot from is the force behind 450 MySpace to Fox, under- Wunderbloc’s company-owned bou- stands the value of having Fashionista

tiques or franchises ORLANDO GARCIA PHOTO BY a Web site with a human section. selling women’s, men’s element. and children’s wear, accessories, shoes, fra- fl oor-length halter in a pleated, shimmery This week, the site grance and home furnishings. black poly blend for $839. Other seasonal is getting a facelift. Dominguez plans a rollout of 40 shops in pieces are a cropped motorcycle jacket in Wunderbloc gets a com- Mexico and South America during the next purple leather for $507, cuffed trousers in mission for e-commerce two years. U.S. expansion won’t necessarily gray stretch rayon for $174 and a sales on the site. Another follow Hispanic population patterns, and in a black-and-white abstract print with means of revenue for Dominguez said he intends to concentrate black collar, cuffs and belt for $468. Lee, who at this point is on markets like New York and Los Angeles, Dominguez hopes to grow his handbag Wunderbloc’s only full- and possibly Chicago and Las Vegas. and shoe business, which accounts for one- time employee, is to offer Initially unable to fi nd the right location third of sales. Products include a brown tote such boutique-specific at the Village at Merrick Park, the company in crocodile-embossed buffalo leather for services as customer re- opened U, a men’s and women’s casualwear $448, caramel-colored boots with hefty ankle lations management and offshoot, in a 3,000-square-foot space on the buckles, $409, and pointy, stiletto sandals e-mail marketing. second level in 2004. Customers buy cordu- with cabochons and a spray of netting, $213. And if stores just want roy capris, printed T-shirts and a best-sell- The company has also jumped on the to be listed on the site, ing, rose-scented eau de toilette. large-size market. Launched three years that is free, too. Online ads The decor at the new Adolfo Dominguez ago, Adolfo Dominguez Plus shares some will be posted on the site store includes wood slat walls, wide-plank fabrics and prints with the main line, but down the road, provided fl oors and gold accented signage and light silhouettes are more fl uid. The designer is they are aesthetically pendants. The company’s furniture, wood- planning to devote a 2,000-square-foot store pleasing for Wunderbloc’s framed sofas upholstered in cocoa silk to the concept upstairs at Merrick Park in indie audience. shantung and sculptural fl oor lamps with 2008, followed by units throughout the U.S. — Rosemary Feitelberg 18 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 WWD.COM

or the girl group Jada, fashion is a whole While their sound is distinctive, fashion is a Fnew world. Shortly after arriving at a recent key part of the package. “It’s not just about the photo shoot, the members of the band sifted music,” Forrest, 18, said. “More so than ever be- through the wardrobe rack, calling out names fore, people tend to listen with their eyes.” Dressed-Up Divas of designers with a girlish excitement. Based To help defi ne what they’re going for — an in Boston, they joked that they have to come to urban look that remains accessible to a wide New York to get their fashion thrills since New audience — the four got together to do what From left: Jacyn England isn’t exactly a fashion mecca. girls do: gather women’s magazines and cut out Tremblay, Elle Wine, As a young group on the edge of breaking images of their favorite celebrities, which they Lauren O’Keefe and into the music business, the girls are a work in then presented to stylists. One look they all April Forrest. progress, both in their music and their ward- agree on: Gwen Stefani. “She’s funky and very robes. Recently, band member Jacyn fashion-forward,” said Tremblay. “We want to Tremblay, 22, has been trading up be like Gwen but with an even younger twist.” from basic jeans looks, an incli- O’Keefe and Wine, both 20, like high-end nation that started the fi rst time European designers including Roberto Cavalli she tried on a Versace dress. and Yves Saint Laurent. O’Keefe’s dream look “It made me feel…a bit more is “Gwen Stefani meets Victoria Beckham.” She pulled together,” she said. describes her style as “chic funky” with tailored Developing a distinct style skirts, high-waisted shorts and heels. But, she is just as important to the mu- added, “I also love that old Hollywood glam pinup sicians as their sound, a mix of girl style with sweetheart lines and lacy gloves.” pop and R&B featuring sophis- Wine, on the other hand, prefers Stefani with ticated harmonies that recall the a touch of Lindsay Lohan. A sexy dress and 5- soulfulness of gospel. Jada includes inch heels make up one of her favorite looks. Tremblay, April Forrest, Elle Wine and Wine isn’t a stranger to fashion — her mother, Lauren O’Keefe and will release its fi rst sin- Debra, founded Debra Wine Designs, which

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PASHA ANTONOV AT SOCIALISTA; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE STYLED BY SOCIALISTA; ANTONOV AT PASHA BY PHOTOGRAPHED gle, “Since We Made Love,” on the Universal produces shoes and watches as well as clothes. Motown label in March. The debut album is “I grew up with fashion stuffed in my face all slated for summer, followed by a nationwide the time,” said Wine, adding that she might one tour. For the album, the group worked with a di- day want to try her hand at designing. verse roster of writers and producers including But Tremblay and Forrest admittedly are not Dallas Austin, Babyface, Swizz Beatz, Jonathan as fashion-conscious. Tremblay identifi es with “J.R.” Rotem, Danjahandz and the Clutch. a more casual “Kelly Clarkson meets Ashlee Jada was started almost four years ago by Simpson” look, and prefers Diesel and Seven Bristol Entertainment, an artist development jeans, and loves bracelets and vintage rings. company in Boston that was behind musicians Forrest likes Juicy Couture and Baby Phat, and such as Niia on Yclef Records and The Dropkick feels most at home in bright tops and hoodies Murphys on Warner. Unlike bands that have one paired with jeans — although she says she’ll lead singer, that duty rotates among Jada’s mem- throw in “some really crazy kicks or accessories bers, none of whom plays an instrument. to make it a little more urban.” “It’s rare to fi nd a group whose members The Jada girls hope to nail down their look can each sing lead, but still possesses an inter- as a group and make it as cohesive as when locking harmony that makes them a cohesive their four individual voices come together in group,” said Sylvia Rhone, president and chief an a cappella harmony. “Each girl has her own executive of Universal Motown. “When Jada sense of what she wants,” said O’Keefe, “but it’s sang a cappella for me, there was an instant a matter of putting it together as a whole.” connection.” — Michelle Edgar Legend Stanley Marcus’ Fervor for Photography IF THESE WALLS COULD TALK ortured artists can come in all shapes and sizes. In Mara Sprafkin’s case, creative etail icon Stanley Marcus was pas- “They’re really not amateur photo- Tfrustration struck at the tender age of fi ve during a Brooklyn Museum art class. Rsionate about photography, but only graphs,” Rudolph said. “He was right “My parents were in another gallery and the teacher had to fi nd them because I was now is that passion emerging publicly there at the cusp of every technical hysterical,” recalls Sprafkin, 27. “I was really upset because I couldn’t get whatever I was trying — with help from his family. innovation. The color is as rich as it to draw to look like it did in my head. So from then on in, we all knew there was trouble.” A retrospective of his images, comes. It is absolutely cutting-edge.” Call it poetic justice, then, that female hysteria is one of various themes Sprafkin “Refl ection of a Man: The Photographs Dating from 1939 to 1971, the im- addresses in her show, “Valley of the Vapors,” currently at the March gallery in New York. of Stanley Marcus,’’ is on display through ages in the show depict a kaleidoscopic The exhibit’s title and many of the works therein were inspired by some late Seventies March 30 at the Dallas Museum of Art, range, from clowns at the Expo ’67 fair in Harlequin romance novels Sprafkin found on eBay whose circular vignette covers proved to which Marcus donated more than 300 Montreal to a French cafe waitress. intriguing. (The show’s name is a riff on one of the book’s titles, “Valley of the Vapours.”) works and was a trustee for over 60 years. They represent only a fraction of the “There was something about this porthole of looking into someone’s private life, Marcus, who died in 2002 at age 96, was 5,000 slides that Marcus gave to his grand- something very voyeuristic,” explains Sprafkin of the images, which she used in drawings the son of Neiman Marcus founder Herbert daughter, photographer Allison V. Smith, in and silk screen prints. Marcus and the impresario who propelled 1997, suggesting that she might fi gure out In addition to the Harlequin ladies, Sprafkin — who primarily employs drawing, silk the Dallas-based luxury what to do with them. screen and large Xerox transfer techniques — drew on a combination of pop culture, retailer onto an interna- Smith had long feminine motifs like doilies and even J. Crew catalogue models, whom she has drawn so tional platform. He was shared an interest in many times they have become a doll-like part of her visual repertoire. One series, entitled also a man of myriad photography with her “It Girls,” consists of 38 Times Square postcards on which she made a collage of gold interests, including art, grandfather, but it vinyl women and juxtaposed lyrics from Madonna’s song “Material Girl.” literature, civic activ- wasn’t until well after “I’m really into reality TV. I love ‘Gossip Girl.’ I’m really fascinated by contemporary ism and travel. his death that she culture. I actually think Britney Spears is the most interesting person of our “His original interest began opening the generation….There’s all these women in gossip magazines and blogs and they’ve all was art and design, but boxes of slides, some had problems and Britney just blew them all out of the crazy water,” says Sprafkin, who he was encouraged to of which still bore listened to the singer’s “Blackout” album nonstop while working on this exhibit. join the family business,” a 49-cent Neiman Sprafkin grew up the only child of a corporate philanthropist mother and lawyer said William Rudolph, Marcus price tag from father. She majored in studio art at Bowdoin College and earned an MFA from Columbia associate curator of the company’s camera University in 2006. American modern art at department. And, though her works can go for upward of $5,000 and have landed in the collection the museum, where 39 “He won a New of Spyros Niarchos, among others, Sprafkin maintains a low-key approach to how her of Marcus’ photographs York Times photo con- work is appreciated. are on display. test in about 1928 with “I want people to like my stuff and hang it up,” she says simply. “I mean, the gallery Privately, Marcus a shot of a building would kill me, but I would give all my art away if I could, if it would just hang on walls.” adored photography Billie Marcus with her that is really Photo 101, — Vanessa Lawrence so much that he always daughter Wendy in 1939. and that was the only bought the latest cam- photo he really talked “Valley of the Vapors” at March gallery. eras, including Leica, about,” she said. Minox, Polaroid and Hasselblad. His Smith uploaded more than 100 of his eldest daughter, Jerrie Marcus Smith, images — without naming the photogra- recalled that her father chronicled her pher — to the photo Web site Flickr.com, childhood “ad nauseam,” as well as those where they generated hundreds of posi- of her twin siblings, Richard and Wendy. tive comments. Encouraged, she worked Marcus, who became president of with an editor to cull the best shots for Neiman’s in 1950 and chairman emeritus a book, calling on her mother, Jerrie, to in 1975, began documenting his family in help with identifi cations. color photographs in 1937. Self-taught, he Jerrie Marcus Smith and her daughter always had a camera with him, turning produced a book of 190 images, “Refl ection his lens on his vibrant social life, travels, of a Man: The Photographs of Stanley popular culture and designers. Marcus Marcus,” to coincide with Neiman Marcus’ showed his work to friends and family, but centennial celebration in October. he didn’t promote or use it commercially. — Holly Haber BRODGESELL KATE PHOTO BY PHOTO COURTESY OF DALLAS MUSEUM OF ART/LENT BY JERRIE MARCUS SMITH AND ALLISON V. SMITH SMITH AND ALLISON V. JERRIE MARCUS BY OF DALLAS MUSEUM OF ART/LENT PHOTO COURTESY WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 19 WWD.COM Beauty Chain Cos Bar Heads to Palm Desert Westfi eld Group COS BAR IS TAKING TO THE DESERT. The high-end indie beauty chain, founded by Lily Garfield A view of the Palm Desert store. in Aspen, Colo., in 1976, has just opened a 900-square-foot Sales, Net Slide store at the El Paseo Shops in Palm Desert, Calif. The new store — Garfi eld’s second in California and By Evan Clark 10th nationwide — carries a variety of high-end skin care, color cosmetics and fragrances. “Our aim is to he weakening real estate market took a toll on make you feel like you’re in our house,” said Garfi eld, TWestfield Group, which saw revenues and profits fall who said she tailors the appearance of each Cos Bar last year, though the developer said it was planning a store to its location — with Palm Desert designed to be number of new projects across the U.S. Rodeo Drive-style chic. Net profi ts plummeted 38.4 percent to 3.44 billion “When a customer walks in, we aren’t accosting Australian dollars, or $2.88 billion, as revenues dropped them. We’re letting her browse in the candy store, and 27.6 percent to 6.66 billion Australian dollars, or $5.59 when she has billion. Dollar fi gures are at the average exchange rate. questions, Meanwhile, a 62 percent decline in revenues from we steer her a large percentage of that business. “property revaluations” to 1.74 billion Australian dollars, BEAUTY BEAT in suitable Garfi eld also has a healthy color cosmetics business, or $1.46 billion, took a big bite out of the top line. Still, directions,” which she sees as a purely impulse buy. “No one is loyal the fi rm is bullish on its market position. she said. “In some stores, you might be pressured to buy to color,” she observed. “The fundamental drivers of the business are a well-po- an entire range from the same line — but perhaps it’s While Garfi eld declined to discuss sales projections sitioned, high-quality, globally diversifi ed shopping center better for the client’s skin to cherry-pick from different for the Palm Desert store, industry sources estimated portfolio combined with a strong fi nancial position and an lines. I make sure that every single person who works that it could do $1 million in its fi rst year of operation. experienced management team,” stated managing directors for me is well-versed on everything we sell, so we can The Palm Desert store is being run by Garfi eld’s son, Peter Lowy and Steven Lowy, adding that Westfi eld’s operat- help the customer make an informed decision.” Oliver Garfi eld. “Oliver spent a year in Bloomingdale’s ing and development earnings showed consistent growth. Garfi eld instructs her staff to ask what products the management program and is a detail man on expan- “Whilst it is apparent that retail sales growth in Australia client is already using before recommending anything sion,” said Garfi eld. is stronger than our other markets, a trend that has been new. “We want to know what she’s happy with, as well Speaking of expansion, Garfi eld’s not done yet with consistent across the portfolio during the year is the strong as what she’s not happy with — it’s not just about selling California. She plans to open a third California store sales results from those centers that have recently benefi ted another $500 cream,” said Garfi eld. “If it doesn’t work, (in addition to Palm Desert, there is a Cos Bar location from expansion and redevelopment,” Steven Lowy said. she won’t be back. While she may be ready to buy a in Carmel) in Malibu this summer. A second store in In the U.S., the Australian fi rm has 55 shopping cen- whole line when she walks in, we may sell her one prod- Scottsdale, Ariz., is planned for 2010. However, she is ters and 8,735 retail outlets. Westfi eld anticipates kick- uct that will improve the effi cacy of everything she’s al- adamant on one point: “We will never go into big region- ing off new projects in Florida, California, Maryland and ready using. It’s about asking the question.” al malls,” she said. “I have no intention of competing New York over the next few years. Garfi eld’s top skin care brands include Chanel, La with Neiman Marcus or other huge specialty stores. But With operations in Australia and the United Kingdom Prairie, Cle de Peau, Kanebo and Sisley. Serums and I don’t have a problem being in the suburbs.” as well as the U.S., Westfi eld manages assets valued at creams, ranging in price from $125 to $650, account for — Julie Naughton 63.17 billion Australian dollars, or $52.99 billion.

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DESIGN/TECH DENIMS TO SELL MERCH / DESIGNER...... $120-170K Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. Est’d ladies importer seeks highly motivat- Production Patternmaker ed, organized, detail oriented designer w/ Branded performance / active Women’s Designer Sportswear. 3+ yrs. Camo Available. Cheap Prices. PRODUCT DEVELOPER strong technical exp. Must have 7+ yrs Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 draping, fitting, tech skills from sample 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL exp. to manage design dpmt, incl spec [email protected] to production. Send salary & resume /DESIGNER www.srisearch.com Showrooms & Lofts tech, CAD operation, & design. Must de- to: [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS sign /merchandise line. Salary & Benefits. Patterns/Samples/Production Design-driven private label apparel E-mail resume: [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. co. seeks ProductDeveloper ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Any Style Sample Maker Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 /Designer for updatedMissyAccount Growing women’s couture co. seeks in all product categories. Would PATTERNMAKER highly skilled & experienced individua l. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, be key point person working directly Top Designer Evening Dresses. Draping Stable position. Emphasis on evening. Graphic Artist and 1st Pattern only. Excellent Salary Please call: 212-869-2296 or fax resume PRODUCTIONS w/ customer. Min. 3+ years exp. Fast paced private label co. seeks a crea- for exp’d. Fax or E-mail information to: to: 212-869-2236 All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. E-mail resumes to: tive Graphic Artist with an excellent 212-463-8224 / [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. command of Illustrator & Photoshop and Broadway Garment Center [email protected] is MAC efficient. We are looking for a team player to work with the Art Director TECH DESIGNER NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Apollo Jeans seeking technical designer AVAILABLE TO SHARE & merchandising team to create screened tees in boys’, young men’s, and ladies’ to create tech packs for overseas develop- Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 PRODUCTIONS Production Assistant ment. 3+ yrs of technical design exp. Full service shop to the trade. Assistant Designer size ranges, contribute fresh ideas, and Sweaters/Cut & Sew Knits/Woven Import - communicate with our factories. E-mail in denim or dresses. Proficiency in SUBLEASE Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Children’s wear company is looking for er seeks a hardworking & very organized Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, & 3600 sq ft offices on full floor, a self motivated, organized, creative resume with 3-5 samples of your work person. Entry level position. Fax or E-mail to: [email protected] Microsoft office req’d. Please contact: fully furnished. Tel & comp ready individual with the ability to multi resume: 212-391-5800 / [email protected] [email protected] Move in Cond. 39St - 5 & 6 Ave PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD task. Candidate will assist in all 4 yr lease , Below Market Rent High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- aspects of the design department. Other P: 917-385-7483 E: [email protected] sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 responsibilities include: flat sketching, Line catalogs and organizing all fabrics/trims for production. Proficiency Production Manager in Illustrator a must! JessilynPersonnel.com (Associate) Please e-mail all resumes to: PRODUCTION JOBS In charge of fabric & garment production [email protected] in a better women’s clothing company Or fax to 212-967-8108 Att. Kendra *QA-OC Live in Hong Kong $100-150K *Prod Mgr Contmp Runway $125K specializing in constructed jackets and *Trim Buyer $65K-70K suits. Must set up and manage time & Better Designer Market action calendar, place trim and fabric *Prod’n Coord $55K p/o, arrange sample lot/yardage for fit, ASSISTANT DESIGNER monitor bulk approval, fabric shipment Est. Eveningwear firm seeks organized, Bi-Lingual Chinese *Prod’n Coord $50- 75K timing, factory receiving and fabric exp’d person to work with design team. quality assurance, reconcile fabric Illustration skills required. Cutting Tickets, T&A, PC Skills PA Sewing Contractor *Prod’n Assist/Admin $30-35K inventory. Daily follow up, update SALES EXECUTIVE Please Email or Fax Resume to: production status, & solve quality issues Exper’d mail order & retail AMO, BF, [email protected] or 212-658- 9416 Established missy/updated knitwear LB, JCP, cut/sew/finish. Ship direct. 1st Patternmaker PATTERN MAKERS with overseas suppliers on time. Also co. seeking aggressive & enthusiastic Jeff 717-436-2138. Import repairs also. Moderate sportswear company seeks * Jacket Pattern Mkr $250-300K responsible for executing & monitoring individual to join our sales force. experienced 1st patternmaker for The Best of The Best! garment production schedule, coordi- Great communication, presentation & showroom samples, & garments from Beth Bowley *1st Prod’n Rnwy Couture Dsgnr $150-200K nating w/tech dept on fitting, arrang- follow up skills a must. Please E-mail: sketch. Strong draping skills, knowl- Cstm Work w/ Socialites & Movie Stars ing ITS inspection, and managing [email protected] edge of garment construction Designer - Contemporary Women’s * Head Pattern Mkr-Dresses $175-200K garment shipment timing in relation required. Please fax or E-mail resume Line. Great working environment. * 1st Prod’n-Better Day Dresses $70-85K to customer deadline. Will coordinate and salary requirements to Concept through sample development. [email protected] 212-947-3400 with acc dept on L/C & arrange payment . Sales Key Account Exec $ OPEN. Current [email protected] Must be neat/organized/ able to meet Must have 3 + years experience in woven exp in womens performance activewear China Manufacturer 212-575-0069 deadlines. Have excellent communica- garment production management. for mid tier stores. Kohl’s, Carson’s, TSA, Experienced day/evening wear supplier. tion and sketching skills. Computer Strong sense of priority and time and Academy etc. Famous licens’d brand line. Full production and Fabric resource. skills: Photoshop, Excel. 5-6 years of action. Excellent communication and [email protected] 973-564-9236 Excellent in quality, delivery and price. 2 CAD/ASST. DESIGNERS experience. Health Ins. 401K. E-mail: organization skills. Proficiency in Call(212) 380-1457; [email protected] KNIT CO. SEEKS GRAPHIC ASST Resume:[email protected] MERCHANDISER Word, Excel and Outlook. Accounting DESIGNERS WITH FRESH IDEAS. Senior merchandiser with min. 5 years exp. is a plus. Please send resume to: Sales Manager / Sales Executive MUST BE PROFICIENT IN PHOTO CAD DESIGNER /ARTIST experience needed for private label [email protected] Yanuk Denim is looking to fill key SHOP AND ILLUSTRATOR. COLOR mfg. Oversee merchandising from positions. We are seeking an energetic MATTERS A PLUS. MULTI TASK LIBERTY APPAREL. a major children’s and juniors apparel co, design devel. to shipping. Ability to EastCoast Denim Seller w/ 3-5 yrs exp. SKILLS A MUST. EMAIL RESUME comm with design team, retail buyers, Production Manager Must have Major Store relationships TO [email protected] seeks a Cad Designer and Cad Artist for our growing co. Candidates should and overseas office. Strong fabric and A start-up luxury brand woman’s de- and strong contacts. Base plus com- be creative, organized, and detail garment construction knowledge. signer is looking for an experienced mission. Our work environment is in- ADMIN Asst to Operations Mgr-1-4 yrs oriented. Excellent growth opportuni- Domestic and overseas travel required. Production Manager. Responsibilities teresting, exciting and fun, with great CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING admin exp/ speak well/ be comp lit & ty. Exp in Illustrator/Photoshop a Great salary and growth potential. opportunities for growth. U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 have a clean/ professionl appr. $35-42K must. Email resume to: Please e-mail resume to: include sampling & sourcing the gar- Resume and cover to www.sanodesignservices.com Call Les Richards at (212) 221-0870 [email protected] [email protected] ments. Send resume: [email protected] [email protected] 20 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 28, 2008 WWD.COM Princess Band Of Outsiders Diaries PARIS — The inimitable style of CocoRosie, the oddball musical sister act, will be Sixteenth-century England was rife with hitting the catwalk soon. The helium-voiced betrayal, power and adultery — really not unlike half of the globe-trotting experimental pop modern day Park Avenue when you think duo, 25-year-old Bianca Casady, plans to about it. Though, as many of the women launch her own fashion label during New attested at Tuesday night’s screening York Fashion Week in September. and dinner for “The Other Boleyn The songstress, sporting her signature Girl,” current infractions are a tad fake moustache — courtesy of a wobbly less scandalous. Love triangles still stroke of a blue eyeliner pencil — revealed happen, but as Mamie Gummer said, “I her design ambitions at her new Parisian certainly never was involved in one with art-meets-fashion space, Mad Vicky’s Tea my sister.” Marina Rust Gallery. The American siblings plan to While some guests bemoaned the accuracy Connor in inaugurate it with a tea party Sunday. of the fi lm about Anne and Mary Boleyn and . their respective affairs with King Henry VIII Tatiana Santo (“Have you seen ‘The Tudors?’” many asked, Domingo Let’s just say it will referring to the Showtime series starring Jonathan “ Rhys Meyers as the king), partygoers agreed the be clothing from the Christie’s dining room and lavish spread was, as Natalie Portman said, “very authentic.” relics of humanity. Indeed, Christie’s staff corralled a handful ” of Old Master portraits for the walls, including — Bianca Casady, CocoRosie a portrait of Princess Sybille of Cleves (Henry’s sister-in-law during his brief marriage to Anne As for Casady’s forthcoming collection, of Cleves) up for auction for “Let’s just say it will be clothing from the Natalie Portman an estimated $4 million to relics of humanity,” muses the singer, her in Alberta $6 million. eyes framed by star-shaped clown tears in Ferretti. David Lauren sat at the head blue glitter. “It will be a sizeless, genderless of the long banquet table (in line,” she explains, adding, on a sisterly the king’s chair, which made note. Her own pick-and-mix style is sure to his girlfriend, Lauren Bush, guide her. “I’m kind of having a casual day,” Paul Dano, Zoe Kazan in Philosophy di Alberta very proud), which was set she says with a shrug about outfi t: a boy’s Ferretti and Mamie Gummer in Alberta Ferretti. with rich purple linens Batman T-shirt and tattered jeans under and hefty tableware. a fl oor-length tartan coat with a shrunken Gummer arrived fresh granny’s dressing gown attached to it. from the 59E59 Theater Her sister Sierra Casady — who mills where she’s starring Poppy around serving tea — is rolled into a teddy in “Hunting and Delevingne bear bed sheet that had been customized Gathering,” while Zoe in Alberta with a heavy metal skull motif and Kazan (with boyfriend Ferretti. gathered into a golden bustier. Both outfi ts Paul Dano in tow) were made in collaboration with the artist slipped in for dessert Leif Ritchey. after her appearance in “We’ve always been inspired by William Inge’s “Come bedtime things, I suppose it comes from Back, Little Sheba” at being vagabonds,” says Bianca Casady, the Biltmore Theatre. demonstrating how her outfi t can be The love-struck swiveled round to go to sleep in, the tartan couple missed dining hood used to shield her face. on period-appropriate Having made clothes since the age of pork rib and roast 12, her favorite creation to date was an quail, as well as outfi t made from silky laundry bags. In her nibbling from the late teens, the singer-cum-designer also decadent charcuterie dabbled in modeling, including walking and fruits set on the for Comme des Garçons. “It was pretty table. “All that’s missing thrilling,” she recalls. is pomegranates bursting CocoRosie is fast becoming a household open,” noted Coralie name among the fashion crowd, thanks Charriol Paul. to a string of high-profi le fashion gigs, “And the vestal virgins,” including Prada’s recent bash during New Euan Rellie chimed in. York Fashion Week and Sonia Rykiel’s store But not the guillotines — opening in Paris. representing Anne Boleyn’s “For me, fashion is the fi rst form of tragic end. Those were set expression, even before music,” she says. out as centerpieces. Because Hope Atherton and Anh Duong, nothing says bon appétit like both in Alberta Ferretti. — Katya Foreman a guillotine. Sierra and Bianca Le Cirque is famous for serving up Casady a bit of New York Past: Even in its newest location, in the Bloomberg Circus Act building on East 58th Street, it harks back to a time when the dining room was packed with everyone from Frank Sinatra and Henry Kissinger to Ivana Trump, and when Woody Allen was turned away for not wearing a blazer. But times have changed and even old stalwarts have to change with them. So come Saturday, Le Cirque is offi cially opening its revamped wine bar and cafe, where neither jackets, reservations nor a large checkbook are required to sample the $18 mini cheeseburgers or $16 croque monsieur on chef Christophe Bellanca’s new cafe menu. (Main courses in the dining room hover in the $40 to $50 range.) Meanwhile, the sommeliers have paired the snacks with wines, beers and sakes, like a fl ight of Alsatian beers to go with a tarte fl ambé, or a sake fl ight with the hamachi sashimi. “We wanted to do something more casual, something for the neighborhood,” says Mauro Maccioni, son of Le Cirque owner Sirio, pointing out that they softened price points for the wine bar by re-creating dishes like goujonettes of sole or tuna tartar with more affordable ingredients like fl ounder or salmon. Should anyone decide they want to splash out on the famous foie gras terrine ($41), for example, they can order from the dining room menu without donning a blazer. “People think, ‘Oh, Le Cirque, it’s for a special occasion,’” says Maccioni. “But Le Cirque’s new wine bar. we wanted to do something more fun. ” — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; CASADYS BY DOMINIQUE METERE BY STEVE EICHNER; CASADYS PHOTOS BY PARTY