BY JORDAN K. SPEER, JESSICA BINNS, DEENA M. AMATO-MCCOY & SARAH ROBBINS

Windblown but not bothered in Columbia Sportswear's Triteca Softshell, featuring Omni-Wind Block, a technically advanced membrane that provides ultrabreathable wind protection -— the wind chill is kept from coming in but perspiration is allowed to escape.

14 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS VF Corp. (Vans) Greensboro, N.C. | www.vfc.com

NOMINATED BY: Manhattan Associates | www.manh.com

Corporation is a low-risk com- fill demand from the U.S. retail stores that ing the current operation, VF then expanded “VFpany,” says Terry Brown, the apparel account for 50 percent of its business. VF the distribution center footprint, splitting enterprise’s director of common systems. sought to improve the brand’s supply chain footwear and apparel operations between “We like to take risk out of the process.” and accomplished this by expanding Vans’ two buildings and implementing optimized And yet Vans — an action sports-ori- dedicated fulfillment center from 317,000 fulfillment for footwear. ented apparel and footwear brand that square feet to 530,000 square feet. It also Since then service-level agreements with joined the VF family in 2007 — caters to worked with Manhattan Associates to retailers have improved by 90 percent, and one of the most high-risk demographics deploy warehouse management and labor its wholesale service performance is up out there: high-flying, fate-tempting, thrill- management solutions, a “disruptive inno- 32 percent. What’s more, thanks to the seeking skateboarders, surfers, BMX bik- vation” that has achieved notable results, technology upgrade, Vans is doing a bet- ers and snowboarders. Still, even these says Brown. ter job of supplying “never out” products daredevils appreciate a bit of certainty when “Vans are a high-demand product,” to stores — which for the action-sports they’re shopping for their favorite Vans explains Brown. “The brand survived low brand are the classic shoes that account for kicks, tees, boardshorts and more. accuracy and low shipping rates. But retail as much as 20 percent of sales, according In recent years, Vans has grown from customers got frustrated; they were try- to Brown. “We apply specific metrics to a U.S. brand that dominated mostly the ing to fill their stores with products con- these SKUs to ensure we can fulfill demand western half of the country into a truly global sumers wanted. So Vans got a lot more by our stores within a day,” he adds. “This brand with a burgeoning presence in Asia, pushback to be more dead on with their ensures that these products are always avail- Europe and Latin America. Indeed, its newly shipping.” able based on sales within the store.” launched partner stores in Hong Kong and Because VF was expanding its opera- With greater visibility into its supply Montreal marked Vans’ first forays into Asia tions and significantly changing process chain, Vans’ inventory accuracy now is close and Canada in 2011. Vans also opened flow, the company chose a three-phase to 100 percent, which means it can reduce branded stores in Chile, Mexico, Aus- technology implementation process. First, costs by eliminating significant safety stock tralia and India last year, and eight addi- it upgraded the warehouse management and keeping inventory levels lower, says tional stores are planned for Brazil, Chile system from a 2001 heavily customized ver- Brown. With results like these, Vans proves and Mexico by year’s end. sion to a 2008 version that it calls VF Base. it’s smart to let your adrenaline-chasing Clearly, the brand is keeping pace with “VF Base has specific targeted customiza- customers be the ones taking all the risks. its fast-moving customers. tion that we have designed to provide opti- — Jessica Binns In the midst of all of this growth, Vans mized picking management and process needed to ensure it could seamlessly ful- flow for VF,” explains Brown. After upgrad- Dao Chloe Dao Houston, Texas | www.chloedao.com

NOMINATED BY: Gretchen Penny, Pevanni Inc.

ne look at the collections of designer Chloe Dao and you can Osee she’s got innovation and creativity in spades. In case you missed it, Chloe Dao emerged as the winner of the second sea- son of Bravo’s Project Runway in 2006, and since then, she and her fashions have gone from mainstream to museum, and every- where in between, including her own boutique in Houston. In 2007, Dao’s designs were featured in the Smithsonian Museum exhibit “Exit Saigon, Enter Little Saigon.” Her skills in under- standing fit and women’s bodies led Dao to a contract with Pictured here are dresses from Chloe Dao’s Spring 2012 collection. Dove as the national spokesperson for its “Sleeveless Ready” cam- Cody Bess Photography

16 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

paign. In 2007, Dao reached the mass market when she debuted students conducted extensive research, including customer sur- on QVC with three consecutive sell-out appearances with her line veys, real estate evaluations, profitability analysis on current lines Simply Chloe Dao, exclusive to QVC, and in 2008, she partnered and market projections. with bag and travel gear maker Nuo Tech to create a line of mobile Using their individual specialties, the students took on pieces technology and travel accessories. of the project and then met weekly with their faculty supervisors You might think she would want to spend a little time resting and with Dao to discuss her current business landscape, along on her laurels, but Dao, who emigrated to the United States the way discovering hidden inefficiencies and bringing to light the from Pakse, Laos with her parents and seven sisters in 1979, is power of her own name recognition over the boutique name, simply not wired that way. Dao and all of her sisters (it’s where Lot 8. As a result of their research and analysis, they suggested the original name of her boutique, “Lot 8,” came from) were always that Dao make several changes to her business, including a name encouraged to work and study hard (they were also encouraged change from “Lot 8” to “Dao Chloe Dao,” a physical redesign of to pursue careers in medicine or law, but that didn’t quite suit the boutique, and modifications to store hours by reducing week- Dao’s passion for fashion) and success has in no way lessened day hours by one hour a week and instead opening the store for Dao’s desire to keep reinventing herself. five hours on Sunday. The team recommended changes in the When Dao’s lucrative contract with QVC ended, she decided product line to focus better on Dao’s core customers, and also pro- it was time to make some changes. Taking a unique approach to vided Dao with tools to help her evaluate new opportunities and evolving her business, Dao applied to the Action Learning Pro- continue improvements in the future. (As a result of their work, ject (ALP), a program of the Jones Graduate School of Business the students all received an “A” and their project was one of at Rice University that teams MBA students with businesses, pro- four projects given top performance awards.) viding the students with real-world experience and the latter a full Dao’s collaboration with MBA students at Rice University’s semester of consulting services free of charge, with the goal of Jones Graduate School of Business brought together a great mix solving a specific problem or offering solutions and suggestions of detailed business analysis and creative fashion design that for improvement. has left the newly branded Dao Chloe Dao poised to move for- Dao’s business was one of 20 accepted to the ALP, and as ward with a new image and more focused product offering, reflect- part of the program, Dao was assigned a team of six MBA students ing Chloe Dao’s creative style and her desire to continually surprise who worked with her for an entire semester, studying her busi- and delight her customers. ness, brand, design concepts, customers and boutique as well as — Jordan K. Speer competitors’ offerings, store traffic and hours of operation. The

Pump Wear Cohoes, N.Y. | www.pumpwearinc.com

NOMINATED BY: Self

alled one of the most common chronic cally improve the management of juve- Cdiseases among children and adolescents, nile diabetes, it can be a difficult transi- diabetes impacts approximately 151,000 tion for young, active children. people under age 20, according to the Cen- Julie DeFruscio learned this first hand ters for Disease Control and Prevention, when her 2-year-old daughter, Nikki, was Atlanta. Each year, this number increases diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes. “At the as more than 13,000 children are diagnosed time she was diagnosed, it was also when with type 1 diabetes. children were just beginning to wear pumps,” Diabetes is caused by the inability of the she said. “In fact, my daughter was the first pancreas to produce insulin, and children in our area. We were so excited to finally with the disease are subject to insulin treat- get her on the pump but quickly discov- ments, often by injection. Treatment also ered that there was no way for her to actu- can be administered by insulin pumps that ally carry this device.” provide continuous dosages. While this In line with the saying, “It takes a vil- streamlines the process, and can dramati- lage to raise a family,” a friend’s mom pitched

Launched in 2001 with six products designed for children wearing insulin pumps, today Pump Wear offers 800+ products, including cases and clothing.

18 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

now we can handle these efficiently and With a handle on production, Swatfame ing on Facebook, Twitter and blogging to with great speed.” is now focusing its energy on its evolving “get our brand out there,” Greenberg said. Specifically, Greenberg reported he is digital marketing strategy, creating digital “If we can tie this to our e-commerce most proud of how the IT team integrated images and sales tools that can merge sales operation, there is strong potential to grow existing systems with PLM, giving all users and marketing in a more visual way, and our private-label brands through innova- complete interconnectivity and communi- that include elements such as social media tive promotions that engage the customer,” cation. “With all systems interconnected, and e-commerce. he added. “We see this as our growth oppor- our inventory and e-commerce systems To date, the company has created both tunity over the next few years.” match up with PLM, helping us make deci- a business-to-business e-commerce oper- — Deena M. Amato-McCoy sions really quickly, thanks to the visibility ation and a direct-to-consumer platform. at our fingertips,” he said. On the social media side, Swatfame is focus-

RHE Hatco Garland, Texas | www.stetsonhat.com, www.resistolhat.com

NOMINATED BY: Infor | www.infor.com

n the fast paced, ever-changing world of fashion, manufactur- a shutdown or system failure. It was clearly time for a new ERP Iers must always be prepared for the rapid evolution of prod- system, and Hatco had prerequisites. ucts and constant variation in demand. As a leader in the western The business’ primary goals were to analyze and improve busi- lifestyle apparel industry, RHE Hatco knows this first hand. By ness processes based on enhanced visibility into operations, implementing a new enterprise resource planning (ERP) system, improve interactions between the company and customers, and the company will improve visibility into operations, better man- optimize use of financial assets. It also wanted a fully integrated age inventory levels and predict consumer demand — and thus solution that did not require additional functionality from improve service levels. third-party products. The Garland, Texas-based company, which operates as a sub- Neathery says the industry-specific functionality built into the sidiary of Pro Equine Products, manufactures and distributes west- Lawson M3 ERP system fit the bill. The fact that the solution is ern and dress headwear for men and women. Among the brands specifically designed for fashion manufacturers appealed to Hatco, the company creates hats for are Stetson, Resistol, Dobbs, Char- as did built-in capabilities including business intelligence coupled lie 1 Horse and Stetson Diamond Jim. The company manufactures with key performance indicators and scorecards tailored to the goods from raw materials, and has built its reputation on the fashion industry; financial and scheduling tools; and advanced fact that it is the only U.S.-based company that spins its hat planning and forecasting capabilities. bodies from raw fur, which it does at the Longview, Texas Raw Hatco is knee-deep in its ERP implementation, and Neathery Body Factory. Hatco also boasts a dedicated and skilled workforce says the company plans to be live on the system by July 1. The of 350 employees, which it credits for fine workmanship and qual- company expects that the new ERP will allow it to improve ity control, and the team uses consumer and industry data to quickly planning and forecasting to more accurately predict customer react to market trends. demand, achieve more accurate inventory through better sales The company was eager to improve its manufacturing processes predictions, enhance customer service by giving users “more per- and better serve its customers, but its existing business informa- tinent information” to share with retail partners, and streamline tion system, which was installed in the mid 1990s, “was out of business practices back-office processes throughout the company. date, and lacked critical functionality,” said Drew Neathery, the Looking ahead, Hatco plans to utilize additional functionality company’s CFO. Additionally, the software was no longer sup- within M3. One of its priorities is to construct an e-commerce web ported by the original vendor or other software developers. site where customers can order products, check availability and The existing system also could not be fully integrated to offer track shipments online, all factors that “enhance the way our cus- true ERP capabilities, which turned any planning operations tomers see and interact with us,” he said. into manual, cumbersome processes. “We did not have the “With better planning,” says Neathery, “we will have all of the computing horsepower to plan [whether analyzing production, products demanded by our customers, but only when they demand purchasing, stocking levels] thousands of parts against various them. This system will provide tools that will allow us to focus constraints,” he explained. on our customers rather than our back-office processes.” The company also struggled with an outdated operating sys- — Deena M. Amato-McCoy tem that couldn’t support a new solution, or mitigate the risk of

32 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS ICON Palm Desert, Calif. | www.iconshoes.com

NOMINATED BY: Frank Waks | Parisa

he simplest definition of “icon” in the Oxford Dictionary says tastes and individuality of its diverse customer base. The same Tit all: a person or thing regarded as a representative symbol or attention is paid to procurement and reproduction, as well as as worthy of veneration. Clearly, the word icon can represent many the payment of royalties to each individual licensed artist. entities, from cultural and religious figures, to those people (and Once the art has been selected, ICON’s graphic artists strive messages) who define pop culture. Now consumers can wear their to reproduce the image in varying sizes and shapes to fit the favorites through the innovative vision of ICON Shoes. patterns of different merchandise. The next steps involve printing Launched in 1999 by a Hollywood filmmaker and art collec- and reproducing the print onto the purest, white, high-grade tor, ICON partners with artists to imprint their images on high- leather while respecting the artist’s original colors and making quality leather, manufactured into shoes, handbags, accessories sure the product will hold up to normal wear and tear. and even jewelry. The company is expanding its reach by partnering with foun- The nation got its first taste of ICON when the company imprinted dations. For example, its work with The Living Desert features the nostalgic “Campbell’s Tomato Soup” label on a leather, side- footwear and accessories touting the foundation’s many animals, tied sneaker. It was the perfect introduction to the company’s mis- with all royalties going directly to the foundation. sion: to use bold color on soft, supple, high-grade white leather, In addition to its e-commerce site and 300 stores across the mid- yet still retain the artist’s original vision. ICON completes the ren- Atlantic and Northeast regions of the United States, as well as Prince dition using a patented printing process known for vibrancy and Edward Island and Nova Scotia regions of Canada, ICON is further long-lasting wear. expanding its breadth through the “home party” business. Whether purchasing the merchandise as a conversation-starter It is also always looking for its next category venture. Through or as a way to express individual style or artistic taste, ICON’s its newest partnership with domestic leather glove manufacturer shoppers often have a keen eye for fashion and art. Like most Grandoe Corp., for example, ICON is now launching a new line manufacturers, ICON produces merchandise for shoppers on a of leather gloves and slippers emblazoned with “iconic” images. seasonal basis. Unlike competitors however, ICON is hard-pressed Who knows where the next icon will turn up? to research each desired work of art, a process that takes count- — Deena M. Amato-McCoy less hours to ensure it chooses an image that best represents the

Duluth Trading Co. Belleville, Wis. | www.duluthtrading.com

NOMINATED BY: Kazu Apparel Group

e all know one of the worst inconveniences of a leaky Wsink: the unfortunate yet inevitable encounter with plumber’s butt. And let’s face it: plumbers take the rap, but all sorts of working folk are plagued with the prob- lems of shirttail-from-waistband separation. A scientific study I just made up reveals that for every plumber out there, another one hundred workers in other occupations are causing innocent passersby to avert their eyes. Fortunately, the good folks at Duluth Trading have created a cure, and a very popular one at that. Indeed, this year the company celebrates the 10th anniversary of its Longtail T®, which is embarking on its second decade of helping to prevent workers from “sharing too much Duluth’s Long-Tail Tee (left) prevents workers from “sharing too much.” Its most information,” with three more inches of shirt body length recent launch: Flex work pants become more comfortable — but no less durable — over time. than your average tee. The Longtail comes in all sorts of versions — with or without a pocket, long-sleeve or short-

34 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

sleeve, with a “beefy” 100 percent cotton, ucts to suit them. There are Ballroom Jeans extreme situations, such as reaching or bend- in various fits, from “tradesman” to “trim” that let you “crouch without ouch,” work ing further, without losing the comfort. and including big & tall and women’s. pants that are “tougher than an angry “Innovation is a cornerstone of the Incorporating innovative design elements, beaver’s teeth,” and Buck Naked Under- brand.” says Pugliese. “We have brought high-quality fabrics and construction and wear that offers “no sweat, no stink, no to market a number of ingenious products, a good dose of humor, Duluth Trading — pinch,” for example, and if you’re unclear including the Longtail Tees, Ballroom Jeans whose tagline is “Designed and Tested by about what any of that means, the web site and Firehose fabric. Some of the details that Tradesmen” — got its start in 1989 when offers short but very detailed informational make us unique are ‘Freedom of Move- two brothers working in the construction videos that will walk you through the fea- ment’ features such as our crotch and under- business observed how workers would drag tures of each garment, always with a few arm gussets, bi-swing backs and the a jumble of tools from job to job using dis- laughs thrown in for good measure. aforementioned Flex fabric,” she says. Also, carded five-gallon drywall compound buck- The most recent launch from the com- many of Duluth’s products are triple-stitched ets. A few of the guys strung wire around pany is its line of Flex work pants, offered for added durability and feature larger zip- the bucket to hold tools, or even used bungee in both denim and firehose, whose con- per pulls and buttons that are easy to grasp. cords. Thinking there had to be a better way, struction incorporates spandex into the “Our goal is to make products that the two brothers invented the Bucket Boss® weave of the fabric, says Stephanie Pugliese, our customers can continue to appreciate — a rugged, durable canvas tool organizer president and chief merchandising officer. even more as they use them for years. We that fit on a drywall bucket, which the broth- “The major benefit is that the fabric becomes try to do that by thinking of all of the details ers sold in a catalog they created called Portable even more comfortable and easier to wear and the benefits that we want to create Products. without losing durability, stain resistance for the buyer,” says Pugliese. “Then we Since then, the company has changed or abrasion resistance.“ This line of pants throw in a good laugh or two to make the names and owners, but has continued to is for the person who wants to wear tough experience even more fun.” identify workplace needs and make prod- pants but wants the ability to move in more — Jordan K. Speer

36 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

Hanky Panky New York, N.Y. | www.hankypanky.com

NOMINATED BY: Simparel | www.simparel.com

From its humble beginnings as a lin- ishing techniques. “We relax the lace before gerie gift made from embroidered hand- cutting it to ensure our garments are con- kerchiefs to today’s global thong domination, sistently true to size,” adds Orzeck. Hanky Panky has come a long way since Replenishment plays a significant role its inception in 1977, when designer Gale in Hanky Panky’s business, and last August Epstein created that gift for her friend, Lida the company deployed Simparel’s ERP Orzeck, now CEO of the business. software, after working on implementa- The underwear brand, sold in more than tion for 12 months. The lingerie brand 3,000 stores in 20 countries, is known for needed to accurately forecast its raw its comfortable fit, premium lace and V- materials in order to streamline produc- front, V-back design. Orzeck says the com- tion and ensure on-time deliveries. With pany is committed to manufacturing and the Simparel ERP solution, Hanky Panky sourcing exclusively in the United States, is now able to deliver faster and efficiently with production primarily in Queens and manage its piece goods, finished goods Brooklyn. “With resources having dried up and overhead costs. Last year, Hanky Panky implemented an in the last 15 years, it certainly has been a What’s more, the Simparel Warehouse ERP system to accurately forecast its raw challenge to maintain a commitment to Management System has helped Hanky materials in order to streamline production sourcing from the U.S.,” she explains. “We Panky to improve accuracy in shipping to and ensure on-time deliveries. must price our garments carefully to remain the vast majority of accounts in its differ- Hanky Panky has eliminated a third-party competitive.” ent sales channels. With built-in report EDI vendor, as Simparel also handles that Although Hanky Panky sources trim, writing capabilities, the brand can now part of the process. elastic, ribbon, and other materials from review data on demand and perform detailed Orzeck says that the software imple- numerous vendors, 90 percent of its nylon analyses of the business. Its entire 65,000- mentation has improved inventory accu- laces are produced by Klauber Brothers, a square-foot Queens warehouse has been racy by 30 percent, and turnaround times fourth-generation lace maker located in automated, utilizing RF scanners, and the on orders are 25 percent faster. Store ship- New York City that developed the brand’s company now has increased control and ments are also more accurate, adds Orzeck. signature lace using special dyeing and fin- accuracy over its inventory. Additionally, — Jessica Binns Mountain Equipment Co-op Vancouver, British Columbia | www.mec.ca

NOMINATED BY: TEXbase Inc. | www.texbase.com

hen outdoor enthusiasts purchase gear for their favorite activ- commerce site. While shoppers have many options for outdoor Wities, they expect their equipment to perform well year after equipment, MEC’s mission to provide quality gear and excellent year, from both execution and sustainability standpoints. To uphold value, while minimizing its environmental impact, has earned it its shoppers’ expectations, Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC) the loyalty of 3.4 million members. designs its merchandise with quality and sustainability top of mind. “Sustainability to us means working, living and playing with To support its merchandise design, development, quality and the long-term in mind by making decisions that respect the envi- sustainability processes, MEC implemented software to help stream- ronmental limits of the planet, and contributing to the well-being line its material development process, improve the ability to of people and communities,” said Sandra Rossi, design man- control quality standards and create efficiencies via supply chain ager, Mountain Equipment Co-op. “Sustainability is integrated collaboration. into every step of our process.” Mountain Equipment Co-op, launched in 1971 with six found- Maintaining this meticulous design and quality philosophy ing members, operates 14 stores across Canada, as well as its e- produces large amounts of data for the company, including infor-

www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2012 37 TOP INNOVATORS

mation from lab tests (MEC has its own testing lab), performance including testing data, performance and color. “We can access the specifications, and day-to-day workflow. Organizing the data is data from anywhere in the world and have all the relevant infor- the biggest challenge, especially when associates are taking time mation at our fingertips,” Rossi explained. “The tool has allowed away from their daily responsibilities to manually manage this us to formalize material specifications and have an official sign- information. These efforts become further cumbersome as the off from our mill partners.” company expands globally. Besides allowing MEC to deliver on its brand promise to pro- “MEC has spent years testing and evaluating materials to meet vide innovative and durable products on a growing scale with- the needs of the products we produce,” said Greg Scott, the com- out sacrificing quality, TEXbase’s access to data helps MEC effectively pany’s director of product integrity. “We were finding that our cumu- streamline and shorten the development process and reduce oper- lative wealth of information was stored in multiple locations and in ating expenses while improving quality and sustainability. multiple formats just at our fingertips, but not easily retrievable.” “TEXbase allows us to track developments, lab dips and MEC needed to ensure it could enable its innovation, quality test data, as well as timelines and pricing,” Rossi added. “We and sustainability goals by implementing processes that would give were able to eliminate Excel spreadsheets and use TEXbase as its associates quick and easy access to information they needed. our single source to house all relevant data — a key contribu- A material lifecycle management platform was the ideal solution. tor helping us to make highly informed decisions based on reli- A value enhancement to its product lifecycle management sys- able data.” tem, the MLM system from TEXbase, Bozeman, Mt., provides a — Deena M. Amato-McCoy database to store and track all information regarding materials, GUESS? Inc. Los Angeles, Calif. | www.guess.com

NOMINATED BY: da Vinci | www.daVinci-retail.com

ompetition in the apparel industry has data, the task of combining reports could mation systems. Meanwhile, financial tar- Cnever been greater, making brands hard- take days to compile. gets from the merchandise planning sys- pressed to create assortments that will attract Besides being a highly cumbersome, tem are integrated into daVinci’s dashboard consumers and drive their loyalty. To max- time-consuming task, revisions to the plans for instant access and process visibility. imize every sales opportunity, merchant were often difficult to execute due to the Detailed item-by-location assortments are teams at GUESS work constantly to get the labor involved. Because it required cobbling passed on to purchasing and allocation to right merchandise mix to put in front of together data from disjointed spreadsheets, ensure maximum synergy and efficiency. their customers. By transitioning a manual the task was intense, and took multiple Since adding the solution, GUESS has operation to an automated assortment plan- days to complete — two factors that could gained a collaborative environment to ning tool, GUESS is gaining visibility into be detrimental to responding to industry plan assortments, and it has reduced its its merchandising process and standardiz- trends in the fast-turn fashion segment. planning and analysis efforts from days ing planning across the enterprise. Michael Relich, executive vice president to mere hours. These reductions are the When creating an assortment, GUESS’ and CIO at GUESS, knew an automated result of gaining instant access to infor- merchant teams strive to analyze the right solution was the only way for merchants mation without manually intensive data merchandising mix their customers will to create a common assortment plan among extracts and countless pivot-table manip- react to. Until a few years ago, it was not all divisions. In 2009, the brand began ulations. Further, GUESS now has a stan- uncommon, however, for GUESS buyers streamlining this task with the implemen- dardized planning process ensuring and planners enterprise-wide to rely on tation of an automated assortment plan- everyone’s plans adopt best practices and Excel spreadsheets when creating these ning tool from daVinci. Designed to adapt organization standards. plans. And this was a common occurrence quickly and easily to the changing needs Relich says buyers think that every style across all four of the company’s divisions, of the merchant and management, the solu- will sell well even without an efficient assort- GUESS, G by GUESS, GUESS Factory and tion improves planning productivity, inter- ment planning process, but that this is cer- Marciano. divisional coordination and data integration, tainly not the case. “The idea is to buy First, division plans were developed on while giving management and planning less and turn product more quickly — a individual desktops, isolating them from teams visibility and control. process supported by a centralized plan.” other teams and providing little insight to Besides improving buyer productivity, — Deena M. Amato-McCoy key executives across the organization. daVinci Assortment integrates the buying Because other teams need access to this process with the organization’s other infor-

38 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS JAY AHR Paris, France | www.jayahr.com

NOMINATED BY: Dassault Systèmes | www.3ds.com

he elaborate and beautiful designs created at the JAY AHR THouse by Jonathan Riss, artistic director, may call to mind the rich mosaics of Byzantine palaces or Roman cathedrals, but Riss’ method of experimenting and assembling hundreds of thousands of beads, stones and other materials into his exquisite designs for embroidery and jewelry is anything but antiquated. Verily, Riss is combining his masterful craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology to push the boundaries of what is pos- sible in design. Using 3D design software from Dassault Systèmes, Riss now begins the creative cycle digitally, developing intricate embroidery for JAY AHR fashions by playing with new colors, tex- tures and materials in a life-like environment before picking up Pictured here is “whale,” featuring approximately 600,000 pearls. The embroidery process began on Dec. 28, 2009 and was completed a single component. That's a phenomenal time saver, especially on Aug. 20, 2010. with the number of components involved per piece. Riss says that pieces from the exhibition “Evolution” took him from one month to reduce the time between developing and finalizing his designs to a year to finalize, and that “the number of stones in the pieces and getting those ideas to the manufacturer. Using 3D design soft- ranged from 30,000 to almost one million in ‘elephant.’ ” ware has also opened the door to new materials and design pos- Using the solution, Riss can create virtual prototypes to test the sibilities. Riss recently used CATIA V6 Live Rendering to explore feasibility and functionality of his designs before attempting to a new area of material and color mixtures for the JAY AHR High model them, and in this way can also collaborate with his team Fine Jewelry collection. Using materials such as colored glass or globally to iterate on a virtual prototype before creating the phys- satinated metal, he was able to experiment with a variety of new ical prototype. design possibilities for future realization. This process removes countless hours and cost from the design JAY AHR’s work with 3D is part of Dassault’s recently announced process. Additionally, the process is more sustainable, because FashionLab, a technology incubator for fashion designers and styl- mock-up costs are eliminated through the creation of virtual pro- ists, whose goal is to marry the engineering creativity of the totypes instead of the physical prototypes typically used for test- technology provider with the artistic inventiveness and industry ing new designs. knowledge of designers to develop a solution integrating the 3D Designing directly into a virtual environment also provides Riss design, simulation and collaboration tools required to manage the with a sharable mock-up that facilitates collaboration with man- entire lifecycle of a fashion collection. ufacturers. With a 3D virtual prototype to work with, he is able — Jordan K. Speer Wuensche Group Hamburg, Germany | www.whi.de

NOMINATED BY: Setlog Corp. | www.setlog.com

or the Wuensche Group, an international result if even one defective product reached solution allowed the Wuensche Group to Ftrading company with more than 10 sub- the market. optimize every part of its production cycle. sidiaries carrying everything from apparel It’s no surprise that a bunch of inde- “Setlog offers a high level of process to foodstuffs to durable consumer goods, pendent systems managing various pieces integration from the observation of inquiries, efficiency is of utmost importance. of the supply chain would eventually not pre-production, quality, shipping and finally Large discount retailers across Europe, be up to the task of streamlining the large the delivery of the goods to the customer,” the United States and Australia comprise and complex business. Wuensche needed said Uwe Porten, Wuensche Group CFO. a big chunk of Wuensche’s clientele. With a more efficient method, which it found in “At the same time the system offers a high single orders often containing 200,000 to Setlog’s supply chain management and performance level even in countries and 300,000 pieces, significant losses would vendor collaboration system, OSCA. The areas with low-internet bandwidth.”

www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2012 39 TOP INNOVATORS

Wuensche collaborated with Setlog to “Setlog offers a high level of process build a quality control module within the system. The module not only linked the integration from the observation of company’s quality control department with inquiries, pre-production, quality, suppliers, but also with the technical depart- shipping and finally the delivery of ments and testing institutes in the coun- the goods to the customer,” said tries where it sources, allowing for monitoring quality at all stages of the process. Uwe Porten, CFO, Wuensche Group. For example, in the apparel sector, qual- Wuensche, managing director of the Wuen- difficult to keep track of everything, but ity control reports show levels of azo dye, sche Group. now with a flow of specific information, color variations and any flaws in the weav- The system also helps to ensure that such as precise sailing dates and real- ing. This specific information helps the com- customer expectations are met by provid- time transit times for ships and carriers, the pany optimize routes when planning initial ing the company visibility into the status company can optimize how each ship is or repeat tests to be carried out by its of a product from pre-production through loaded and when product is shipped. traveling technicians, saving both time and delivery, and sending notifications if any Setlog’s source control management money — especially in countries such as delivery dates will be missed. In such a sce- software has helped the company not only China and India where factories are often nario, Wuensche — together with its sourc- to increase the efficiency of its complex located far apart. The cohesive system also ing offices, agencies, suppliers and forwarders logistics, but also to create a better prod- helps to keep information from getting lost that are all linked to the system — can make uct through quality control. Wuensche in a shuffle of phone calls, emails, faxes and targeted decisions to ensure the customer reports that it is now able to turn out bet- spreadsheets. receives the product on time. ter products more quickly — and save process “Erroneous or diverging information Every year, more than 20,000 contain- and transportation expenses along the way. is something of the past. Today our inter- ers arrive at the Wuensche Group’s ware- — Sarah Robbins vention is targeted and rapid,” said Thomas house. In the past, the company says, it was Patagonia Ventura, Calif. | www.patagonia.com

NOMINATED BY: TradeCard | www.tradecard.com

en years ago, Patagonia’s supply chain was large, unwieldy and So how — and why — did Patagonia do it? Tcomplex. By 2007, the outdoor apparel brand had whittled its “We just wanted to get a better grip on quality within the quorum of 108 suppliers down to just 45, and since that year — supply chain,” explains Freeman, who says the days of working sourcing from 58 percent fewer providers — sales have doubled, with 108 suppliers were a result of “not having a very disciplined says Patagonia vice president of global supply chain Doug Free- process.” What’s more, moving toward a leaner, more transpar- man. The brand is on track to bring in $500 million in sales this ent and more socially responsible supply chain was very much in year — up from $412 million in 2011. keeping with the company’s mission statement: Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis. In 2005 Patagonia — which produced 10 million units last year and fills 175 shipping containers annually — began working with supply chain solutions provider TradeCard and implemented its automated procure-to-pay process, a significant step away from relying on letters of credit as is the industry’s common practice. “It gave us the chance to contain supplier transactions in the cloud and operate in real time very efficiently,” explains Freeman. The dramatic move, however, was met with considerable protest from suppliers, who fretted over not being able to secure export

Patagonia’s mission statement: Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis. Pictured here, a zipper flagged for repair.

40 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

financing or a loan from a local bank to buy fabric and trim. Some iff schedule) numbers into commercial invoices. “When you can even worried that they wouldn’t get paid at all. rely on the efficiencies of TradeCard to populate these fields of To quell the unease and dispel any misconceptions, Patagonia commercial invoices, packing slips, etc., it makes suppliers much got the stakeholders together — TradeCard, a Hong Kong bank more efficient. They run at a much better clip,” says Freeman. and a concerned supplier — and walked them step by step through “Connecting the supply network in one place has improved our the new procedures. Once the suppliers realized the efficiencies collaboration. It allows our suppliers to be more profitable.” TradeCard presented at payment and saw the potential to dra- The brand also benefits from having increased visibility into its matically reduce inquiries regarding payments, the transforma- supply chain. “The TradeCard software allows for a balcony tion took hold. TradeCard’s automated procurement procedure view of the status of shipments and payments,” says Freeman. eliminates the time-consuming process of reconciling and getting “Suppliers are clear … we’re clear. And payment is executed on word on payments to suppliers, freeing up the sourcing man- time. That’s huge.” ager for other business-critical tasks. Says Freeman, “We have a much easier time managing qual- Patagonia doesn’t maintain any liaison offices, operating entirely ity and social responsibility with fewer suppliers.” from its California headquarters. It also no longer wastes money — Jessica Binns on fees to obtain letters of credit, which Freeman says were plagued by “constant discrepancies.” Suppliers no longer have to chase down payments or spend time re-entering HTS (harmonized tar- Ash City Richmond Hill, Ontario | www.ashcity.com

NOMINATED BY: Self

sh City’s customizable apparel will have A corresponding Utk Warm Logic tem- Ayou ready for whatever comes your way perature rating system launched last fall — and help keep you cool while you get there. for cold weather. “This is a testing and rat- The 35-year-old company, with 500 ing system that helps determine the right employees worldwide, including in Canada, piece of outerwear for the right activity and the United States, Malaysia and Bangladesh, temperature,” says Wendy Fraser, com- creates promotional apparel — everything munications manager. “It uses extensive, from jackets to knits to athletic wear — for state-of-the-art, third-party laboratory both corporate and casual markets. The testing to ensure the best comfort level for company is always trying to serve its cus- the wearer.” tomer better, including by finding out what Likewise, the new Cool Logik fabric activities customers want to engage in while helps wearers ensure that same level of wearing its garments, and by developing comfort for warm climates. technologies to meet those needs. “The concept of ‘Komfort’ at work or Ash City’s new UTK Cool Logik features a It was out of this commitment to match at play is not a new one — at one point, blend of micron mineral particles embedded garment function to customer activity that wicking fabrics were the cutting edge of into the yarn fibers to provide a cool-to-the- touch experience for wearers. the company’s Unique Komfort Thermal technology, but now they are standard in Technology lines were born. most performance garments. Utk Cool when worn by staff and given out to cus- This spring, Ash City launched a prod- Logik is the next iteration of this. We wanted tomers, but will also ensure the ultimate uct line incorporating a new, proprietary to help keep the wearer cooler right from comfort of the wearers. fabric technology, Unique Komfort Ther- the moment they put the garment on, and Ash City strives to be a leader in envi- mal Technology Cool Logik (Utk Cool this is where the concept of a fabric that is ronmental responsibility, too. With its e.c.o. Logik), which features a blend of micron cool to the touch and that provides a con- line of products using recycled polyester mineral particles embedded into the yarn tinuous cooling experience came from,” fibers and organic cotton, and made using fibers to provide a cool-to-the-touch expe- says Fraser. fair labor practices, the company’s goal is rience for wearers. The fabric has an accel- Fraser says the Cool Logik line is per- to show that innovation and responsible erated rate of heat conduction, and the fect for companies looking for modern, styl- practices can go hand in hand. yarns block heat absorption, dispersing ish and cutting-edge garments that will not — Sarah Robbins heat away from the skin. only enhance their own company image

42 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS Urban Outfitters Philadelphia, PA | www.urbn.com

NOMINATED BY: Starmount Systems | www.starmountsystems.com

nderstanding your customers and con- to interact with customers at the point-of- Unecting with them on an emotional interest, enhancing customer service.” level. Sound easy? It’s not. Urban Outfit- Delivered on the Apple® iPod Touch, ters says it finds success doing this because the solution, says Devine, brings the inter- its brands — Urban Outfitters, Anthro- activity, speed and convenience of the online pologie, Free People, Terrain and BHLDN experience to brick-and-mortar stores by — are both compelling and distinct, with providing a faster checkout process and each brand offering an eclectic mix of mer- reducing lines, while also allowing store chandise displayed amidst a mix of found associates to provide more personalized Urban Outfitters’ new mobile POS solution objects and placed into “creative selling customer service by providing full trans- brings the interactivity, speed and convenience of the online experience vignettes.” action capabilities anywhere in the store. to its brick-and-mortar stores. Across its brands, Urban Outfitters has Overall, the solution offers customers a focused on creating an environment that “more connected shopping experience,” POS device also allows Urban to process connects to the customer on an empathetic says Devine. different purchase paths within a single level, and more recently it has worked to Customer feedback about the mobile transaction. For example, a customer might extend that experience by connecting on a POS has been very positive, he says, adding make an in-store purchase, but also place physical level via its rollout of a new mobile- that one area of particularly noteworthy an order for another item that is out of stock assisted selling solution, Starmount Engage, success has been the ability to check out in the store, but pay for both items with across its brands. customers as they are leaving the fitting one swipe of her credit card. “Our customers have come to expect room. Future enhancements, says Devine, will a differentiated shopping experience,” says Continuing to enhance the solution, the allow Urban Outfitters sales associates to executive director of IT John Devine. “With company in late 2011 rolled out the abil- use the mobile POS to access product reviews, the mobile POS solution, our sales associ- ity to fulfill store “out of stock” items designer notes and outfitting suggestions. ates are freed from behind the cash wrap from its e-commerce inventory. The mobile — Jordan K. Speer Journelle New York City, NY | www.journelle.com

NOMINATED BY: JustEnough Software | www.justenough.com

here comes a time in every young company’s life when Excel La Perla, Stella McCartney and Jenny Packham. Tspreadsheets just don’t cut it anymore. For Journelle, the lux- Lingerie comprised 20 percent of the U.S. apparel market in ury lingerie enterprise with three shops in New York City, a 2009, and hoping to capture a bigger slice of that lucrative pie, boutique in Miami Beach and an e-commerce site, the moment Journelle sought out a provider whose technology would integrate came last year when it realized it needed something a bit more seamlessly with its existing NetSuite software. The lingerie com- advanced to handle inventory management and demand fore- pany deployed JustEnough’s Advanced Planning for NetSuite casting. Because since its founding in the heady, pre-recession solution, which includes demand forecasting, inventory planning days of 2007, demand for upscale underthings has only increased. and replenishment capabilities. “JustEnough was the perfect fit Investment banking and financial advisory services firm for us from a solution standpoint,” says Journelle founder and Consensus recently cited Journelle as one of the next great con- CEO Claire Chambers. “Not only does the software fully and seam- sumer brands. The start-up caters to sophisticated women who lessly integrate with our NetSuite system, giving us complete vis- also believe Journelle’s mantra — that great designer lingerie ibility into our operations, but it was the only solution on the market should be worn every day — and who have graduated from that could meet all of our business requirements.” mass lingerie retailers such as Victoria’s Secret. Journelle main- Among those requirements: the ability to create forecasts based tains spa-like fitting rooms, and sales associates must complete on different product attributes. Journelle also wanted to target cus- a two-month training course. It carries high-end brands such as tomer-service levels with an eye toward maximizing its inventory

www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2012 43 TOP INNOVATORS

investments. Journelle started working with JustEnough on the Indeed, Journelle has embraced iPads in a clienteling capacity; implementation in the fall, and the system went live in January. associates can upload a shopper’s fit, size and shape data via the “JustEnough was a great partner in helping us customize the solu- tablet directly from the fitting room so she can take advantage of tion and providing training for their robust set of features, and that information when shopping at home. now that we’re using the system, we have access to vast amounts Maurer is well aware that Journelle will need to keep pace with of data that previously was possible only through complicated and rapidly evolving consumer technology. “Mobile is an increasingly time-consuming Excel calculations,” says Laura Maurer, execu- important channel for our customer, and by making our website tive assistant and social media liaison for Journelle. “JustEnough’s mobile-friendly, we find we are able to gain an important, addi- solution now allows us to accurately forecast demand and more tional touchpoint with our customer,” she explains. “The mobile carefully monitor our stock position with a very fine level of pre- interaction is different than what she’ll experience in store and cision, improving our financial results and allowing us to meet the even online via computer, because it’s often brief, spontaneous needs of our customers with more regularity.” and may not necessarily conclude with a transaction. Chambers adds, “We feel that with JustEnough, we are pre- “Most importantly,” says Maurer, “mobile visits are usually pared to take on some of the retail industry’s most pressing demand driven by her interest in the brand versus a desire to buy some- challenges — such as channel proliferation, consumers that thing specific, and this means that her mobile navigation is an have access to limitless product and pricing information and the exceptionally important tool in building loyalty and advocacy.” rise of mobile technology.” — Jessica Binns Chef Works San Diego, Calif. | www.chefworks.com

NOMINATED BY: Avercast: www.avercast.com

hile Chef Works has been cooking Wup high quality apparel for the inter- national culinary and hospitality industry for some time, until recently, it’s had a little more difficulty with its recipe for inven- tory management. Although Chef Works, a highly auto- mated, paperless operation, has been effi- ciently supplying uniforms to restaurants and hotels worldwide, the back end of its supply chain was mired by an overflow- ing warehouse and slow-moving items. Chef Works carries about 65,000 items, but only about 12,000 — mostly basic chef’s uniforms — represent 90 percent of orders. Still, because of manufacturer minimums, Chef Works was keeping large tory throughout the supply chain and ful- Chef Works carries about 65,000 items, but fillment process. only about 12,000 — mostly basic chef’s numbers of smaller-value and slow-mov- uniforms — represent 90 percent of orders. ing items in stock to satisfy that other Dave Roth, Chef Works’ COO, began 10 percent of orders. Plus, with the end- a search for a product that could handle gate orders could be balanced among the less variations in style, color and size of the company’s complex business fore- company’s disparate manufacturing sources its products, Chef Works’ inventory was casting and demanding planning needs. locally, regionally and globally. In other bursting at the seams, tying up valuable He contacted Avercast, whose software words, orders from customers needed to capital and making tracking a daunting demonstrations and proof-of-concept be distributed to manufacturers accord- task because of the sheer volume of data demonstrations led to a pilot project with ing to pre-determined preferences that took available from the company’s Sage Acc- the company. into account the various ordering and cost- pac ERP system. Roth and his team were impressed with ing requirements of the manufacturers. For The company needed a better, more effi- the Avercast software, but saw an obstacle example, one large manufacturer may deliver cient, way to control and manage inven- relative to its ability to handle how aggre- the best price but have a large minimum

44 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

order, while another manufacturer’s min- Avercast at the company and training its dors. He looks forward to incorporating imums may be based on a certain mone- staff, and also adding enhancements it more of its features into Chef Works’ every- tary level instead of outputs. Chef Works requested in “a matter of days,” Roth says. day operations. needed a forecasting application that took The results? Chef Works’ data crunch- “Our primary driver was inventory reduc- these factors into account without requir- ing for monthly operations meetings used tion,” Roth says. “We hope to reduce inven- ing lots of spreadsheets of aggregate order to eat up 18 hours. With the Avercast sys- tory by 25 percent by the end of 2012. We levels to be passed back and forth with tem, it now takes just 30 minutes. know we’ll achieve that, but it’s the bal- suppliers. Roth says Avercast’s graphical interface ance we want to achieve, not purely the Avercast rose to the challenge, adding is straightforward and easy to use. Addi- effect of reducing inventory. It’s the bal- this capability to its business forecasting tionally, the system has created more trans- ance of having less-requested items avail- and demand planning platform. The com- parency throughout the inventory able when needed while keeping our most pany also did a “phenomenal job” inter- management system and more control in in-demand items in stock.” facing to Chef Works’ ERP system, deploying goods purchasing for its international ven- — Sarah Robbins Próis Hunting & Field Apparel for Women Gunnison, Colo. | www.proishunting.com

NOMINATED BY: Self

here are just four arrows left in your quiver, and you reach for Tone quietly. A line of women spreads out around you. The air in the pine forest is silent and cool. The deer are unsuspecting. You pull back and let it fly. This could be you, participating in one of Próis’ women-only hunts, if you were the winner of the Próis Bucks Rewards program. Próis, a manufacturer and marketer of performance-driven hunting gear for women only, is capturing a niche that many folks may be surprised to learn even exists. And if you want to know the truth, Próis’ target market is even more narrow than that; it’s a niche within a niche. “There are other companies who manu- facture women’s hunting clothing, says CEO Kirstie Pike, “but Próis currently corners the market on the ‘bad ass’ female hunter with its athletic and performance-driven clothing.” (Amusingly, Pike pauses to apologize, but notes, “it’s really the best word.”) Other companies create more “couture” clothing, she says — This could be you, participating in one of Próis’ women-only hunts, if you were the winner of the Próis Bucks Rewards program. “which is definitely a market of its own — while Próis focuses on function, technical fabrics and the layering systems necessary to accommodate the change in hunting seasons. “We are extremely to optimize thermoregulation, comfort and mobility while still focused on providing customer service to our dealer partners,” maintaining silence.” says Pike. In fact, Próis employs a full-time dealer relations Próis launched in 2008, the heart of the recession, which you coordinator who works closely with the company’s dealers to opti- might not think was a particularly auspicious time to start up a mally display and sell its products. business, but that’s just what Próis did, and it seems to be work- Not limiting its distribution to dealers only, however, Próis also ing. It started as a “small idea from a small town,” says Pike, but has developed grassroots initiatives that are key to marketing and the company now distributes products around the country, as well moving its products, such as its Home Hunting Party program, as to Canada, Australia and South Africa, with the majority of its whose representatives “purchase a sales package and then host product manufactured in the States by California Apparel Ser- parties and attend local events to dig deeper into the niche.” The vices, Santa Ana, Calif., and distributed and sold using multiple program has become quite successful, says Pike, with new rep- channels and non-traditional methods to draw out the customers resentatives coming on board each week. of its niche market. Another innovative way in which the company rustles up excite- Unusually, for example, its customer-service-based dealer pro- ment is through its Próis Bucks Rewards system, which gives grams include gear exchange, which allows a dealer to exchange star customers, who purchase directly through the company’s cat- gear that does not sell, or needs to be replaced with different gear alog or website, coupon codes for discounted gear that they can

46 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

share with anyone they deem appropriate. Direct sales generated food source and still maintain all the other traditional roles she with this coupon code are tracked, says Pike, and the participant may be responsible for.” who generates the highest level of sales each year wins a spot in Pike says its target customers are quite diverse in their intro- one of the Próis women-only hunts. ductions to hunting, as well. You’ve got two distinct groups — Of the program, says Pike, “We wanted to find a way to (a) those who were raised as hunters, and those who fell into the sport reward our star customers with a discount, (b) encourage their later — but other branches continue to fork off the hunting tree. friends and family to bring in more sales and (c) offer a prize For example, while women who begin hunting as adults are typ- that is not only fun, but further enhances the relationship and the ically introduced to the hunting and shooting arena through draw to the company. It’s sort of like crack, I guess,” Pike jokes. boyfriend or husbands, Pike says there’s a growing trend of “women If you’re curious to know what exactly the female hunter demo- introducing women as a means of comraderie.” Another, perhaps graphic looks like, you might be surprised there, too. unexpected, trend is that more and more moms, instead of dads, “Contrary to an often portrayed image that all hunters are red- are introducing their children to shooting and hunting. necks, the reality couldn’t be more different. Female hunters are “Women tend to find hunting very empowering. It provides career women, wives, mothers, grandmothers and everything in a sense of accomplishment, stamina and pride. … I have to between,” says Pike, who adds that there is an “instant sister- laugh because when I go to the grocery store, ladies come up to hood” between female hunters that doesn’t exist with male hunters. me with iPhone images of elk, bucks, turkeys or new bows and “Women are thrilled to find other women who share their same rifles — not pictures of their kids!” pursuits. Women are supportive, instructive and understand what — Jordan K. Speer it means to be able to harvest an amazing animal, bring home a Grupo Cortefiel Madrid, Spain | www.grupocortefiel.com

NOMINATED BY: Core Solutions | www.coresolutions.com

rupo Cortefiel competes in the fast fashion world against global Gbrands such as Zara and Mango. Working with an average of 450 suppliers, largely based in Asia, the company maintains sourc- ing offices in Delhi, Hong Kong and Madrid, where the com- pany is headquartered. “We buy 74 million garments a year, which yields 174,000 different SKUs for our five commercial formats: Cortefiel, Springfield, Women’secret, PdH (Pedro del Hierro) and Fifty Factory,” says Berta Escudero, supply chain general manager for the apparel retail enterprise. The company’s directly operated stores are scattered through- out Europe, and it maintains franchise locations in 66 other coun- tries. “We replenish our stores three times per week minimum in Spain and Portugal, and two times per week in the rest of Europe,” adds Escudero. “Our business model consists of frequent planned refreshing of the stores with new collections; therefore in each store delivery, we include new garments and sales replenishment.” It should go without saying, then, that you can manage such a vast array of moving parts using spreadsheets for only so long. Fast-fashion behemoth Grupo Cortefiel replenishes its stores three times per week minimum in Spain and Portugal, and two times per Grupo Cortefiel lacked a centralized system to manage the week in the rest of Europe. range of sourcing and supplier information, which was stored in different locations. Each department — women’s wear, men’s ing, order and quality needs, in addition to providing full visibil- wear, intimates and more — followed separate workflows. Sup- ity into the entire supply chain through the CBX Critical Path Man- plier agreements were not well managed or organized, and Corte- agement tool. “One crucial CBX tool for us is the Critical Path, fiel needed a way to automatically bring new suppliers onboard. where we can detect and correct early in the development and The company turned to Core Solutions for a technology upgrade, production process any delay coming from late fabric reception, deploying its CBX Enterprise system because it featured built-in problems detected with samples or during the QA inspections, modules that could handle all of Cortefiel’s specific supplier, sourc- delays during production process, etc.,” Escudero explains.

www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2012 47 TOP INNOVATORS

“This alert system is highly appreciated by our buyers and helped “Everyone can check the status of the specific garment devel- to speed up the product development process.” opment in the system and they don’t need to phone or send emails Since implementing CBX, Cortefiel has trimmed a significant to get the information. This is indeed very useful when we work amount of time from its supply chain cycle. Now the company’s in different time zones.” various departments can forecast seasonal buying and sourcing CBX has also helped Cortefiel to increase teamwork and coor- plans and assign tasks to relevant teams. The system also has dination among its different sourcing offices, because its “been helped to improve the management of technical specifications. able to align the work processes while still differentiating the par- “CBX has helped us to increase the productivity in our sourcing ticularities of the different countries or suppliers,” adds Escudero. offices and supports the business, thanks to faster and organized —Jessica Binns communication among buyers and designers in Spain, our suppli- ers and our sourcing and logistics organization,” says Escudero.

Wolverine Brand Rockford, Mich. | www.wolverine.com

NOMINATED BY: Self

or more than 125 years — since 1883 — gen- Ferations of American workers have been rely- ing on Wolverine boots for comfort and durability. Wolverine made the original boots that helped build the railroads, erect skyscrapers, and expand highways across the United States, and its inno- vations trace back through the years. In 1914, Wolverine set the standard for durable footwear The Finley, pictured here, is an updated version of Wolverine's with its introduction of a footwear line called classic duck jacket, offering workers the 1000 Mile Boot, and in 1991, the company a perfected fit with a bi-swing back introduced the first in a long line of modern- and articulated elbows for a full range of motion. day comfort systems with the launch of Wolver- ine DuraShocks®, a technology that features compression pads in Taking the workers’ natural motions into careful considera- the heel and forefoot that absorb shock and return energy. tion, Wolverine developed an innovative solution to allow for But Wolverine is more than a work boot brand. Today, its her- more natural movement and range of motion, by perfecting a itage of comfort and durability is integrated into a full line of work- fully-gusseted arm socket to provide maximum flexibility around wear and rugged outdoor apparel, built, like its boots, with quality the shoulder, without adding bulkiness, said Stoepker. The design materials and fine craftsmanship to withstand a variety of chal- incorporates extra folds of fabric that can stretch when needed lenging environments. but retain the jacket’s traditional, at-rest shape. “Wolverine apparel is designed for active men who need Wolverine also integrated elastic into the back of the jacket to the freedom to move,” says Lisa Stoepker, Wolverine product reduce the tight feeling across the back that wearers experienced manager. when moving their arms forward. The two components together One of Wolverine’s most recent innovations in apparel design resulted in a jacket with a fully functional bi-swing back for opti- is highlighted in its perfecting of the brand’s cotton duck canvas mal comfort and natural range of motion. jacket. This classic jacket with its traditional, recognizable sil- Taking the design innovations a step further, Wolverine also houette, is made from durable canvas and has been a work- introduced articulated elbows. Stoepker says the layered design wear staple for decades. around the elbows allows for a full range of motion at the elbow Even so, Wolverine saw places for improvement and set out to joint. improve the jacket’s comfort and fit. By carefully examining men’s The articulated elbows together with the bi-swing back are fea- on-the-job movements, Wolverine identified areas where the tured in two new Wolverine cotton duck canvas jackets, the Fin- jacket inhibited motion around the arms and back. ley and Hawksbill, which offer the same durability and classic style Specifically, it found that when wearers moved their arms for- as the original, but with more comfort, function and flexibility than ward, the sleeves pulled away from the wrists and the back of ever before. the jacket stretched tightly across the back. — Jordan K. Speer

48 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS House of Pearl New Delhi and Haryana, India | www.pearlglobal.com

NOMINATED BY: OptiTex USA | www.optitex.com

hen you manufacture apparel for the likes of Target, Chico’s Wand Kohl’s — and 25 percent of your business comes from the newly reinvigorated JCPenney — efficiency and timely turn- around are the name of the game. For House of Pearl, a global enterprise with 25 offices and more than 20,000 employees in 15 countries, every competitive advantage matters, which is why the company set about implementing OptiTex Pattern Design Soft- The OptiTex and House of Pearl management and technical teams ware (PDS) in November 2010. House of Pearl previously worked come together to discuss advancing design technology. with a hodgepodge of various CAD software solutions and decided House of Pearl plans to implement an additional 10 seats in the it was time to upgrade to a consistent design technology platform. woven garments manufacturing division. The company purchased a total of 10 PDS seats: eight for woven Going forward, House of Pearl sees a place for OptiTex tech- garments and two for knitted. So far, after a smooth implemen- nology in other areas. The company says it will deploy its Auto- tation process, House of Pearl has eight pattern masters who are matic Marker Nesting Optimization and CutPlan software, which fully up to speed with using OptiTex; two additional employees will reduce production cost and time, in-house sampling and fit- are just beginning their training. According to the results of an ting costs, and lead time of sample shipments. Starting this year evaluation survey, efficiency in both units using OptiTex has and into 2013, House of Pearl also intends to integrate its Opti- improved by 60 percent. In the pre-PDS era of manual pattern Tex suite with its PLM and ERP software. design, workers produced three to four patterns each day, which — Jessica Binns has increased to as many as eight patterns daily with OptiTex. Ralph Lauren Corp. Greensboro, N.C. | www.ralphlauren.com

NOMINATED BY: Acuitive Solutions | www.AcuitiveSolutions.com

egendary luxury house Ralph Lauren’s to 20 times more to move them. ited ability to analyze and execute new ser- Linnovations in digital technology are well Like many other companies, Ralph Lau- vice options across 400 factories and 50 ori- documented; in late 2010, the company ren Corporation (RLC) managed its expe- gins, says David Lande, director of launched a 4D initiative in New York and dited shipments by routing them via emailed international transportation at RLC. Ten London, incorporating live models and the instructions, referring to a static guide to percent to 20 percent of the company’s brand’s iconic imagery on the side of actual determine which logistics services provider shipments are expedited, generally to fill buildings into a spectacle of reality and illu- (LSP) to use for any given shipping lane. customer order windows. sion, and ending the whole affair with a In this system, the LSP lacks advance notice To address this process inefficiency, well-timed spritz of its then-latest fragrance. of when the shipment is coming its way; RLC’s transportation operations team co- Crowds gathered in both locations were data about the products being shipped; and developed with Acuitive Solutions the Inter- surprised and delighted (and also perfumed). information about when the shipment is national Transportation Management System While Ralph Lauren may be known for due. The LSP manually keys in the prod- (iTMS), a first for the apparel industry. The pushing the envelope on branding and uct data to notify the customer in detail iTMS dynamically routes inbound expe- engagement, it also innovates behind the about what’s coming — but that infor- dited shipments and creates live commu- scenes on a decidedly less sexy — but just mation usually arrives after the shipment nications between the company and its as essential — side of the apparel business: has already landed. The process does not LSPs on a 24/7 global basis via a dynamic the supply chain. Retailers and manufac- manage critical, high-cost shipments effec- routing portal. Innovative in several ways, turers alike continually grapple with man- tively, resulting in limited ability to adjust the iTMS links multiple purchase order sys- aging expedited shipments. By their very to market conditions, poor visibility into tems into a single interface for all vendors nature expedited shipments are critical — origin transport activities such as routing to access and confirm quantities, packing, which is why shippers are willing to pay 10 requests, bookings and handovers, and lim- weights and handover dates.

50 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

The system also considers multiple ser- routed via an expedited ocean service, sav- from the supply chain, the company’s car- vice levels, such as standard and deferred, ing 50 percent of the standard cost per ship- bon footprint is also shrinking. to auto-route shipments to the lowest-cost ment. Even better: the company achieved Lande says Acuitive was a great, col- service option. What’s more, it tenders the ROI for the project in just three months. laborative partner in bringing the iTMS shipment and related purchase order data Now that LSPs are notified electroni- to fruition. “They designed a new process to the nominated LSP on routing selection cally as shipments are routed — up to to address our needs and didn’t try to fit an and receives booking confirmation and five days before vendor booking — the extra existing product and alter our process,” he shipment status update details back from lead time helps providers secure capacity, explains. “They developed comprehensive the LSP. iTMS takes some guesswork out often at a lower cost. The iTMS provides training and podcasts in multiple languages of the process by calculating and auditing up to 11 additional days’ visibility of inbound to facilitate development.” the chargeable weight as submitted by the expedited shipments, as well as greater ven- The iTMS has about 400 users, one in vendor and reconciling it with what the dor control and the ability to quickly and each of RLC’s factories. “We held webi- LSP says it should be. effectively change supplier preferences in nars with each factory to train them and RLC has been very pleased with the cases where LSP performance or cost com- they were welcome to also attend them results so far. The iTMS has moved 48 per- petitiveness changed suddenly. RLC says live in our Hong Kong office,” Lande says. cent of all shipments from the standard, data quality around shipment details and —Jessica Binns full-price service to more cost-efficient status updates has also improved signifi- options. Three percent of shipments were cantly. And since RLC is trimming days

WORN Fort Worth, Texas | www.wornforpeace.com

NOMINATED BY: Self

M.D.H.: I am from Burma but I can not remember ever living there. I was born in the jungle between Burma and Thailand after my parent’s village was burned by the army. We fled through the jungle to the Thai refugee camp. I lived in the refugee camp for 20 years before we were given the opportunity to come to the United States in 2008. In these three years, I have learned so much from reading English to driving a car to getting a job. Now with WORN, I am able to continue to provide for my family doing something I love to do, which is crocheting. M.D.H.’s crocheted scarves are sold by WORN, a new socially conscious brand of accessories hand-knit (or cro- Scarves from WORN are hand-knit or crocheted by refugee cheted) by refugee women in the United States. Many women who have come to the United States seeking better lives. The income generated by selling their scarves helps to apparel companies contribute to their communities, but pull them and their families out of poverty. WORN was born giving back. Launched last year by Catholic Charities Fort Worth (CCFW), the business “This is both a new product launch and a new business was designed to provide supplemental income to refugees strategy. WORN is different from other socially conscious to help them and their families rise above poverty. brands because it is made in the USA, provides supple- mental income, gives the refugee women an opportunity S.A.: I am from Bhutan but I have spent the majority of my to attend financial education classes, and reinvests 100 per- life in a refugee camp in Nepal. In the refugee camp, I was able cent of profits from the scarves back into a non-profit agency to graduate from college and teach young children in a small school. to help others,” says Susan Vinson, WORN’s senior operations My husband and I were given the opportunity to come to the United manager. “The idea of WORN stemmed from a CCFW employee States in 2010 where we were reunited with all of my husbands’ fam- and the agency got behind the idea, further researched it, and ily in Fort Worth, Texas. We were also blessed to have our first found funding to support the initial start up,” she adds. child here in the United States. However, my husband and I are still struggling to find steady work, but with WORN I have been able H.L.: I am from Burma but I have spent over 10 years of my life liv- to stay at home with my baby while also contributing to our house- ing in a refugee camp. I am the mother of five, two of which were hold income. born in a refugee camp, and one that still lives in a refugee camp. I am

www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2012 51 TOP INNOVATORS

coming up on my one year of living in the United States and I am A.I.: I am a refugee from Burma. I lived in Malaysia because I was still adjusting to life here. Everything is so different from the hospitals forced to flee my home country. I do not like to repeat the events of my to schools to being able to put money in a bank. WORN has been life frequently. Whenever I think about it I feel pain again. I am try- able to help provide an extra source of income to help us adjust to life ing to forget. in the United States. “WORN is combining fashion with a social cause, ‘purchase Refugees from all over the world come to the United States for with a purpose,’” says Vinson. “As the business grows, it enables resettlement, leaving behind the affliction and persecution they the brand to increase the number of refugee women needed to faced in their home countries, says Vinson. CCFW, along with other service demand.” Currently, WORN has two product lines a resettlement agencies, helps the refugees’ transition into Ameri- year — Spring and Fall — and sells only scarves, but, says Vinson, can culture. This includes help with setting up apartments, pro- “you can expect to see other hand-knitted (or crocheted) acces- viding English as a Second Language classes, enrolling children in sories in the future.” schools, and help with integration into the American employment — Jordan K. Speer system. “The vision of Catholic Charities Fort Worth is to provide the necessary skills that allow these refugees to be self-sufficient and regain a sense of both self and dignity,” says Vinson. Moosejaw Madison Heights, Mich. | www.moosejaw.com

NOMINATED BY: CrossView | www.crossview.com

Love the Madness. That’s the catchy lit- operate, the company never considered itle slogan of Moosejaw Mountaineer- working with another provider, citing exist- ing, an activewear and outdoor gear retailer ing investments with CrossView and the with seven physical stores in the Midwest resulting simplified backend integration: and a strong online presence. The brand the mobile POS makes it so simple to access is known for its “nonsensical” marketing product information that sales associates strategies, such as using a Winston Churchill can sell items sight unseen, ordering mer- speech as the “hold music” on its toll-free chandise from inventory in the warehouse. customer service number and establish- The handhelds include an iPod touch ing Dating Girl, whom customers can con- with a Linea Pro cradle featuring a 2D bar- tact for relationship advice. These moves code scanner and a magnetic stripe reader have helped Moosejaw gain a strong fol- for credit cards. Shoppers can have their lowing among its core demographic of receipts emailed or printed out. Comer- serious outdoor enthusiasts who are young, ford describes the system as hardy enough anti-corporate and tech savvy. for a retail environment yet with a sleek Moosejaw’s new mobile POS makes it so And yet there’s nothing mad or non- form factor that looks familiar to shoppers. simple to access product information that sensical about improving the customer “We had to add a secure wireless modem sales associates can sell items sight unseen, ordering merchandise from inventory in the experience in very tangible ways. That’s in each shop to support the rollout,” he warehouse. exactly what Moosejaw did with its mobile adds. “Future shops have wireless built point-of-sale rollout last October after devel- into the store’s firewall device.” Moose- to eliminate long queues by assisting cus- oping the system for four months. “Creat- jaw is expanding into several new markets tomers wherever they’re located in the store. ing that close connection with customers over the next 12 months. And shoppers love it, too. “A customer online and in stores is a big part of our brand Moosejaw associates are quite taken used it in our Ann Arbor store one morn- and the mobile POS plays to that strength,” with the new technology. “The employees ing and then called back to say that she says Eoin Comerford, Moosejaw CEO. The love the mobile POS and have dubbed it wanted another item but had her kids in company partnered with CrossView, a cross- ‘The Future Toaster,’” says Comerford. “I’m a car, so could we run the jacket out to channel commerce solutions provider, to not sure why — probably something to do the car and ring her up? No problem,” get handheld POS terminals into the hands with the credit card swipe slot. They like explains Comerford. “Overall, customers of store associates. that it enables them to engage directly with think it’s pretty cool and get a kick out of Comerford says that while the brand customers without a bulky cash wrap get- signing for their credit card with their fin- looked at how other mobile POS options ting in the way.” The POS system also helps ger on the screen.”

52 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com TOP INNOVATORS

Moosejaw is working on creating “cus- promotions, upcoming events and pho- the forefront of seamless cross-channel tomer engagement areas” in its stores. tos from customers shows a rolling feed commerce, whether that’s web, store, mobile, Different from the standard POS areas from Moosejaw’s Twitter account. The catalog, social or whatever,” he explains. where service is traditionally delivered, company intends for these areas to not “Customers expect a seamless experience these areas are located at the front of the only improve customer interactions but with consistent pricing, policies, purchase store to welcome shoppers and are dec- also free up valuable floor space for addi- history and brand voice.” orated with broken-in easy chairs, a rug tional merchandise. — Jessica Binns and a coffee table stacked with games. A Comerford sees other innovations ahead. flat-panel TV with a rotating slideshow of “We continue to look for ways to stay at Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI) Kent, Wash. | www.rei.com

NOMINATED BY: Avery Dennison Retail Branding Information Solutions (RBIS) | www.rbis.averydennison.com

hat began as a group of 23 mountain The team’s analysis found that REI’s con- Wclimbing buddies is now the nation’s sumption of up to eight million hangtags largest consumer cooperative, featuring per year used 59,000 kg of paperboard national brands as well as its own REI and more than 36,300 kg of plastic. REI, like private brands of outdoor gear and cloth- other retailers examining their supply chains ing, but still as committed to “inspire, edu- for waste, updated its paper hangtags to be cate and outfit for a lifetime of outdoor more sustainable by moving from 10 per- adventure and stewardship” as it ever was. cent recycled content to 100 percent FSC- Each year, REI donates millions of dol- certified content — but then went a step lars to support conservation efforts nation- further. REI took a close look at the hang- wide and sends dedicated teams of volunteers tag’s plastic fastener and decided to seek — members, customers and REI employees a more environmentally friendly solution. — to build trails, clean up beaches, restore Overall, the fasteners don’t have a major local habitats and more. REI also focuses on impact from the perspective of volume com- responsible business practices enterprise- pared with other packaging products, says wide to reduce its environmental footprint. Abraham, “but the problem was that the In keeping with its commitment to pre- guidelines we established early on for design- serve and care for the planet, REI is on a ing package require that we either use a REI’s new recycled garment fasteners mission to reduce the amount of REI-branded single substrate, use recycled materials or contain a minimum of 88 percent recycled packaging it uses by 25 percent by 2013. close the loop … by using materials that plastic. REI private brands comprise approximately are widely recyclable.” 20 percent of product sold in its retail stores. In working to improve its fasteners, REI “Recycled” logo molded onto the paddle of To accomplish this goal, the company designers collaborated with Avery Den- the piece, enabling immediate recognition of first took aim at the excessive and unnec- nison RBIS for almost six months to engi- the retailer’s sustainability efforts. essary use of cardboard and plastic wrap neer a solution that would simultaneously As for its next steps, Abraham says, REI’s in packaging REI products, says packag- reduce landfill waste and elevate REI’s posi- ultimate goal is to design the fastener out of ing manager Eric Abraham. Then, he and tion as an environmentally sensitive brand. the product completely. We have entered an his team dug deeper and examined every The team came up with recycled garment age, he says, “when the customer is willing single aspect of packaging throughout the fasteners that are manufactured from a min- to purchase a $200 jacket using only a smart- supply chain and store floor, down to the imum of 88 percent post-consumer-waste phone, rather than flipping through a four- hangtags, which inform consumers of brand recycled plastic bottles or plastic retail gar- page hangtag. … Our eventual goal is to name, price and basic product information ment hangers. design out most of the packaging altogether. concerning apparel merchandise and gear. Made from recycled Polyethylene Tereph- “Sustainability is a journey. It’s not a “Anything deemed wasteful — anything thalate (rPET) or recycled Polypropylene giant leap. It’s about taking steps,” he says. that wasn’t product, that the consumer had (rPPT), the fasteners come standard in 19 col- “We’re all unequivocally linked to the out- to do something with, we wanted to mea- ors and can be customized by color for greater doors and what our impacts are on it.” sure,” said Abraham. design versatility. Each fastener features the — Jordan K. Speer

www.apparelmag.com • MAY 2012 53 TOP INNOVATORS Fruit of the Loom Bowling Green, Ky. | www.fruit.com

NOMINATED BY: Gerber Technology | www.gerbertechnology.com

ruit of The Loom knows that today’s cus- system, but also refining various business The company began installing the new Ftomers are more demanding than ever, processes into a common process.” PLM platform in late January while also and as such, it keeps an eye on short cycle PLM solutions rely on one single data conducting several function-based work- times to ensure it brings products to mar- source that is analyzed and used to man- shops. The implementation plan is following ket in a timely way to meet their desires. age the entire lifecycle of a product from a multi-phased go-live approach, with the To make sure it can continue to deliver qual- conception through design and manufac- Fruit of the Loom division scheduled to go ity products at a fair price, Fruit of the Loom ture through distribution. Many compa- live first, in August, with the other divisions is consolidating its multiple operating groups nies also give trading partners, including to follow at regular intervals over the sub- onto a centralized product lifecycle man- factories and fabric mills, access to infor- sequent several months. agement (PLM) solution to shorten cycle mation to track development. To ensure the program stays on tar- times, and better meet consumer demand. Centralizing its divisions on one system get, a dedicated team continues to evalu- Fruit of The Loom manufactures and would allow all involved associates to gain ate the development process, and keep sells apparel for men, women, girls, boys a centralized view from which to monitor its eye open for potential process improve- and toddlers. While the company is most and track progress across all areas of prod- ments the technology can offer. recognized for its undergarments and T- uct testing, raw materials and styles and “Cost reduction is an ongoing challenge, shirts, it also manufactures casual wear, sampling, as well as cost breakdown com- especially when our goal is to produce supe- including fleece hoodies and pants. The parisons and analysis, including price nego- rior quality product at a fair cost,” said Smith. company operates four major brands, includ- tiations and profit plans. “This [solution] creates a winning combi- ing Fruit of the Loom, Russell Athletics, To streamline this massive job, Fruit of nation for us, our retail partners and most Vanity Fair Lingerie and Spalding, and the Loom wanted a solution that went importantly, the end consumer. employs more than 30,000 individuals beyond a simple “plug in” of new software. “Once the implementation is complete, worldwide. It also needed a PLM system that could link we will be able to realize improvement not Fruit of the Loom is working toward with many other technology solutions that only across product development, but also consolidating all of these operations under play a role in product development. in how we work and communicate with one development umbrella — a move that For example, the company wanted the brand marketing and management, inter- the company expects will streamline oper- ability to pull pattern and marker infor- nal manufacturing, as well as material ven- ating costs. Clearly, this task is a huge under- mation directly from pattern and marker dors and garment suppliers,” said Smith. taking. However, the mission is further making systems into its specification pack- While it is still too soon to report spe- complicated by the fact that each division age. It wanted to build color libraries and cific results, Smith is impressed with the has been utilizing different data manage- palettes within the PLM tool, to house mate- performance of the combined cross-func- ment tools and maintaining diverse prod- rials test data and create materials speci- tional development team that consists of uct development processes. fications within the PLM system, and to associates from Gerber and Fruit of the “In order to harness the potential across create real-time communication with sup- Loom. “Our future plans focus on meet- all of our divisions, it was essential that we pliers and vendors by providing secure data ing the needs of the market, and ultimately move to a common platform for develop- entry ports for critical information. our customers,” he added. “I have no doubts ing, manufacturing and managing prod- Fruit of the Loom selected the Yunique that this group will lead us through a suc- uct,” said Bruce Smith, vice president, PLM platform from Tolland, Conn.-based cessful implementation.” product development, Fruit of the Loom. Gerber Technology, a provider of auto- — Deena M. Amato-McCoy “This not only meant utilizing one PLM mated solutions for the apparel industry.

Jordan K. Speer is editor in chief of Apparel. Jessica Binns is former associate editor and contributing writer for Apparel, specializing in retail and mobile technologies. Deena M. Amato-McCoy is a New York-based Apparel contributing writer specializing in business and retail technology. Sarah Robbins is a free-lance writer based in Columbia, SC.

54 MAY 2012 • www.apparelmag.com