AND WWD INTIMATES LEGWEAR KATE’S TURN BY THE NUMBERS, NEW MARKETS, TRENDS AND MORE. SECTION II SAM EDELMAN TAPS KATE UPTON AS ITS FACE. PAGE 3

ACCESSORIES PRE-FALL WWD 2013

MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

BUILDING ON ITS ROOTS Fendi to Help Restore Key Roman Fountains “We are proud of being tied to By MILES SOCHA the city, but I believe not everyone knows, and this is a great occasion to PARIS — Lending a hand to its do something for the city that hosts mythic hometown — and enrich- us,” Beccari said. “Rome is a home ing its brand narrative in the pro- of Made in Italy. There’s an incred- cess — Fendi is embarking on a ible savoir faire, but as well it’s a four-year effort to restore some source of inspiration for many.” of Rome’s crumbling fountains, In an exclusive interview, the beginning with the Trevi, WWD first since he assumed the helm of has learned. Fendi in February 2012, Beccari Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi, said the company would be the Fendi chief executive Pietro sole sponsor of the Trevi refur- Beccari and Rome’s mayor, Gianni bishment, with work expected to Alemanno, are slated to host a commence this spring. The brand press conference in the Italian city plans to fund restoration of four today to unveil the project. other fountains, which have yet to Elements include a photo book be named. devoted to Rome’s celebrated The executive also lifted the and hidden fountains, lensed by veil on development plans for the Lagerfeld and due out in the sec- luxury firm, which is part of lux- ond half of the year. The climax ury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy could be a fashion show with Trevi Louis Vuitton. It hinges on animat- as its backdrop in 2015, when Fendi ing Fendi’s iconic leather goods, will mark its 90th anniversary. SEE PAGE 12 Watch Sales Clock Growth Compagnie Financière Richemont, By HAIG SIMONIAN the luxury goods powerhouse be- hind most SIHH exhibitors, re- GENEVA — After record sales and leased figures on the opening day, earnings last year, Switzerland’s which revealed that Asian growth leading watchmakers are entering had slowed in the final quarter of 2013 with broad optimism — while last year. While group revenues acknowledging economic wobbles climbed 9 percent, revenues in in China could yet spoil their party. Asia-Pacific, now the group’s single Gathered for the Salon biggest region, remained flat when International de la Haute adjusted for currencies. Horlogerie — one of the watch in- Richemont’s results put a dustry’s two annual showcases — 16 damper on what should have top brands toasted a bumper 2012 been a celebration. Swiss watch thanks to booming sales in Asia, a exports for the first 11 months of strongly reviving U.S. and signs of 2012 — the only industry-wide fig- recovery in even troubled Europe. ures available — jumped almost But concerns about China 13 percent to nearly 20 billion cast a shadow, particularly after SEE PAGE 4 Dark Stars PARIS — Hedi Slimane is bringing the energy of rock ’n’ roll — along with dashes of Art Deco and Parisian flair — to his makeover at Saint Laurent. Consider his expansive collection of accessories for pre-fall. Here, his Lulu bag in shaggy shearling seems fit for a modern-day Janis Joplin, while the high-heeled patent leather Chelsea bootie brings to mind a young Debbie Harry. Punkish-luxe jewelry ranges from a geometric bangle in vermeil inset with onyx-colored resin to a leather cuff with metal studs. For more on pre-fall accessories, see pages 6 to 8.

PHOTO BY XAVIER GRANET; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER 2 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 WWD.COM Furla’s International Road to Expansion THE BRIEFING BOX tries with 319 stores, of which 145 pop-up store entirely dedicated to By LUISA ZARGANI are directly operated. The brand the colorful Candy bag in PVC will is also carried in 1,290 multibrand open in the former Milan boutique IN TODAY’S WWD MILAN — This year will mark a and department stores. and the company is planning to new phase for Furla, leveraging “One of the strengths and pil- unveil a hand-painted version in an 18 percent increase in rev- lars of Furla is that our flagships March.) Furla is also remodeling enues in 2012, lifted by an expan- are located in the top streets the Paris store. The new concept is sion in the Asia-Pacific region, a of all the major capitals of the warmer with brass — rather than 93 percent increase in travel re- world, next to fashion designer steel — elements and reflections of tail sales and the development of brands,” said Furlanetto, point- the 18th-century villa that houses its own online store. ing to units on London’s Regent the brand’s Bologna headquarters, “We are entering a differ- Street as well as Paris’ Champs- said Furlanetto. ent, more accelerated stage of Elysées, Rome’s Via Condotti and The Asia-Pacific area accounts development — we had been New York’s Madison Avenue. for 13 percent of Furla sales. rowing and now we are sailing,” “We started investing in Japan in European, Middle Eastern and GRAVES Giovanna Furlanetto, chairman 1990 and now it’s become our first African markets — excluding Italy, Gela Nash-Taylor and of the accessories firm, said in market, which is a matter of pride with a 24 percent share — represent AMY

Pamela Skaist-Levy with BY 27 percent of revenues. Furlanetto Rachel Zoe in Ferragamo.

Furla’s new concept said the company is now focused PHOTO features brass on further building the U.S. region, elements. which accounts for 9 percent of Fendi is embarking on a four-year effort to restore some of sales. The brand recently made a Rome’s crumbling fountains, beginning with the Trevix. PAGE 1 change in U.S. management replac- ing Tommaso Bruso, who had been Switzerland’s leading watchmakers are entering 2013 with chief executive officer of Furla USA, broad optimism — while acknowledging economic wobbles in Inc., for the past five years, with China could yet spoil their party. PAGE 1 James Mullaney, chief financial of- fier of Schifter + Partners. Sam Edelman has tapped Kate Upton for its new “There is so much growth digital and print advertising campaign that will roll out potential in the U.S.,” said starting Monday and run for six months. PAGE 3 Furlanetto, highlighting the brand’s successful collections for NuOrder, the online and mobile marketplace linking retailers Saks Fifth Avenue, a 35 percent and fashion wholesalers, has four new investors. PAGE 9 an exclusive interview. “We have and satisfaction for us, as it’s such a jump in sales at Bloomingdale’s been investing in the company sophisticated and demanding mar- and gains at Nordstrom. The Sidaction Gala at the tail end of couture week in Paris is The new concept allows more patiently, quietly and with a long- ket,” she added. Japan accounted a chance for fashion folk to let their hair down. PAGE 10 term view for so long, and now for 27 percent of sales last year. room to display watches, jewels, we are reaping the rewards.” The brand recently opened its belts and textiles — categories that The Bologna, Italy-based com- third store in Hanoi, Vietnam, and have expanded. “This model is in Two weeks after announcing that she would not be having a pany closed 2012 with sales of the first in Thailand, in Bangkok, line with the recent upgrade of the runway show, Betsey Johnson has changed her mind and will 212 million euros, or $271.3 mil- in a partnership with Central brand, which is becoming more of a be back at next month’s New York Fashion Week. PAGE 11 lion at average exchange. Over Marketing Group, a division of lifestyle label,” said Furlanetto. the past two years, Furla’s rev- Central Group, which also controls Furlanetto had no news in ref- New York Times executive editor Jill Abramson addressed enues grew 35 percent. Italy’s La Rinascente department erence to the arrival of a new chief a panel convened by The New Republic to ponder “the While 2012 earnings before store chain. Furla also entered the executive officer, as former ceo unexpected future of media.” PAGE 11 interest, taxes, depreciation and Indian market with its first store in Eraldo Poletto left in November amortization are still not avail- Mumbai and has unveiled seven for Alfred Dunhill. “We have a ON WWD.COM able, 2011 EBITDA totaled 25 stores in six months in Indonesia. strong and passionate managerial million euros, or $34.7 million, The Mumbai unit was modeled team in place,” she stressed. EYE: Demi Moore, Rachel Zoe, Nicole Richie and other L.A. up 47 percent compared with the after the new blueprint, intro- She also reiterated that there regulars were at Chateau Marmont for Salvatore Ferragamo’s previous year. duced in other stores that opened are no plans to publicly list the spring presentation. For more images, see WWD.com/eye. Furlanetto said the company, in Asia (in Beijing; Singapore; company, which last year issued a TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS which is controlled by her family, Dubai; Taipei, Taiwan; Macau, bonus to its employees for a total [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. has been expanding around the and four units in Hong Kong) and of 1.5 million euros, or $1.9 mil- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. world and exports last year ac- Milan, in a new venue closer to lion, for the results obtained in COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 205, NO. 18. MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, counted for 76 percent of total rev- the city’s cathedral, the Duomo, 2011. 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For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at William Ackman — the activist of promotion support, perhaps quarter ended Dec. 31. Sales for www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub. investor who has blasted chair- with the exception of the hair- the segment inched up 1 percent to com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at man, president and chief execu- care category, which is probably $5.4 billion while unit volume was P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE tive officer Bob McDonald as the one of the most active, given the flat. Organic sales rose 3 percent. FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER wrong person to run the consum- number of new entries that have The firm said most of its beauty UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR er products giant. occurred over the last couple of businesses posted higher sales that CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A The firm topped Wall Street’s years,” McDonald said on a con- were “driven by innovation and SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. earnings estimates for the quarter, ference call with analysts. “The higher pricing.” Sales, however, boosted projections for the year antidote, or the method of growth decreased in the skin-care area, and made progress in the beauty here, is behind innovation.” where competition has been tough. area, where the management has The company is expand- McDonald noted that the beauty prescribed a dose of new product ing its hair care products with business has seen organic sales offerings to excite consumers. Vidal Sassoon Pro Series in the growth in 11 out of the last 12 quar- “P&G put up a very good salon affordable segment and ters, averaging roughly 3 percent quarter,” Ackman said during a Pantene Expert in superpremi- growth over the past three years. live phone interview on CNBC. um distribution. Asked about dealing with the “Their organic revenue growth is And last month, P&G began pressure from outside, McDonald lower than [their] competitors’, shipping Olay Total Effects color said: “We want a higher share but they are making progress. If correction cream, which fights price just like our sharehold- Bob can turn this thing around, lines, wrinkles and age spots. ers do. We have delivered in the he deserves the credit. And he’ll This month, a new midtier collec- bottom line and we’ve — impor- be the right guy [as ceo]. tion of cleansers and moisturiz- tantly — reinvested our savings “And if he can’t, don’t misin- ers called Olay Fresh Effects was in the second half.” terpret my previous statement introduced to the midtier market. The overall company logged — based on the last three years Olay Regenerist is also getting core earnings per share of $1.22, of P&G, it really certainly looked more attention with the launch which came in 1 cent ahead of like Bob is not the right guy for the of Olay Microsculpting Cream. the $1.11 that analysts projected. company,” Ackman said. “But if the “In skin care, we’re investing The firm’s organic sales grew 3 company can make dramatic prog- to ensure sufficiency of our core percent to $22.2 billion. ress and this is an indication of sig- Olay business and we’re bringing — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS nificant progress then [I] hope that new innovation that addresses FROM MOLLY PRIOR WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 3 WWD.COM Kate Upton in Sam Edelman’s new campaign. Edelman’s New Muse: Kate Upton

By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

SAM EDELMAN is marching into 2013 with Kate Upton by its side. The New York-based footwear brand has tapped the model for its new digital and print advertising campaign that will roll out starting Monday and run for six months. Shot in an undisclosed location in New York City by ad impresario David Lipman, the campaign pays tribute to Edelman’s urban heritage and is part of a larger strategy for the brand as it strives to grow into a lifestyle player. “It felt like the right time,” said Sam Edelman, designer and division presi- dent of his brand. “We had a major ad campaign with Charlotte Kemp Muhl 18 months ago. It carried us for a long time. [By choosing Kate,] it was a hell of a deci- sion to go with an indie girl.” Lipman echoed that sentiment. “We of Old Hollywood films. For instance, one it has plans to grow in London, chose Kate because she isn’t stick thin. photo shows a sultry yet innocent-looking Paris, Milan and Saint-Tropez, She’s beautiful and all-American,” he said. Upton sitting amid a pile of Sam Edelman France, the company will focus The 5-foot, 10-inch Upton, who is, for flats while averting the camera’s gaze. domestically this year, starting the record, merely considered “curvy” “I wanted to capture the spirit of with the West Coast. for a model, was spotted wearing a pair youth and vitality,” Lipman said. “I want- In the next two years, of Edelman equestrian-style boots. That’s ed to portray Sam’s lifestyle and a young Edelman will have between when the potential partnership clicked, girl’s lifestyle and merge the two.” six and eight more stores, ac- and Lipman and Edelman called her in. The idea of depicting a “lifestyle” has cording to Diane Sullivan, chief execu- launch of its e-commerce site in March as “I’ve loved Sam Edelman shoes for a been at the core of the brand’s direction tive officer of Brown Shoe Co. Inc., the well as the addition of five new licenses long time, so shooting the ad campaign over the last two years, and it started brand’s parent company. in the next two months. was a lot of fun for me,” said Upton, who with product. “Sam’s business has been off the Although Sullivan wouldn’t divulge soon realized that she shared a passion The development of tall boots and charts for the last two years,” said the categories, she did say that three of for horses with the designer. other shoe categories in 2012 has paid Sullivan. “When we bought the company the five segments are accessories-centric. That bond may spin off into a second dividends for the company. That success in 2008, sales were in the $10 million to Last year, the company added outerwear partnership, depending on how this cam- was punctuated by the opening of the $15 million range. Today, Edelman is get- and handbags, and it has said clothing, in- paign is received. A confident Edelman brand’s first store in New York’s SoHo ting close to a $100 million business.” timate apparel, fragrance, beauty, jewelry said he expects the video, which will ap- neighborhood in October. Brown Shoe, which had sales of $2.58 and small leather goods are on the way. pear on the brand’s Web site, to “go viral.” “We are working on retail expan- billion in 2011, is positioning Edelman as The brand’s footwear ranges from $60 Shot in black and white, both the stills sion plans that will commence in the a lifestyle brand in order to capitalize on to $150, and new categories will stay in a and the video nod to the enigmatic feeling U.S.,” Edelman said, noting that, while its popularity. This will include the re- comparable price range. Seven Die in Fire at PPR Invests in Electric Brand’s Revamp Bangladesh Factory sunglasses constitute about 50 percent of the compa- By RACHEL BROWN ny’s sales; snow goggles, 30 percent, and apparel and SEVEN APPAREL industry workers were killed other accessories such as caps and beanies, 20 percent. and more than 15 injured when a fire swept LOS ANGELES — Electric is recharging. Electric is carried at 3,000 points of sale, including Sport through the Smart Export Garment Ltd. factory After 13 years in business, the San Clemente, Calif.- Chalet, REI, Zumiez, Tilly’s and PacSun. in Mohammadpur in the western part of Dhaka, based sunglass and snow-goggle specialist has rethought Beach realizes the company has to diversify both its Bangladesh, on Saturday. All of those killed were its logo, merchandise mix and distribution with the sup- distribution network and product selection to boost sales. women and four were teenagers, according to po- port of parent PPR, owner of Volcom Inc., which acquired “The whole category [of action sports eyewear] is hitting lice officials. Electric in 2008. While Volcom is strong in apparel, the the ceiling. Yo u have a bunch of guys getting their butts The Institute for Global Labour and Human changes are meant to underpin Electric’s position as the kicked by bigger guys like Oakley and Ray-Ban,” he said. Rights said the workers were crushed to death as action sports accessories pillar in PPR’s sport and life- Electric will introduce watches priced from $200 to they raced to escape the flames at the factory, which style division and catapult its sales. $1,500 for holiday. Crane outlined that Electric will dis- is housed on the second floor of a two-story building. Last spring, PPR shifted the organizational structure at tribute the watches first to the top 20 to 30 percent of its Mahbubur Rahman, director of Fire Service Electric so that the brand’s chief executive officer, Bruce existing retail base and expand in year two to fashion de- and Civil Defence headquarters, said the cause Beach, reported to Todd Hymel, chief operating officer of partment stores, lifestyle boutiques and premium sport- of the fire was still under investigation. PPR’s sport and lifestyle division, instead of Volcom ceo ing goods stores. “We think that the watch category will Officials of Smart Export Garment could not Richard Woolcott. With PPR become, in terms of size, as be reached for comment. However, press reports behind it, Beach said Electric big as the eyewear category, here said the factory was not licensed. had the wherewithal and con- but we also think that it will International organizations quickly spoke fidence to take a hard look at have somewhat of a pull ef- out against the latest tragedy and called for a the brand and position it for fect on it,” said Beach. change of working conditions in the apparel in- sustainable growth. To help Electric is also delving dustry in Bangladesh. “After more than two de- it get there, Electric brought into snow helmets priced cades of the apparel industry knowing about the back Eric Crane as chief com- from $100 to $250 starting risks to these workers, nothing substantial has mercial officer of the brand, this week, and elevating its changed,” Judy Gearhart, executive director of where he’d worked from 2000 small leather goods acces- the International Labor Rights Forum, said in a to 2003 prior to heading to sories offerings for spring statement issued along with The Worker Rights Ocean Pacific and Nixon. 2014, taking them from pric- Consortium and the Clean Clothes Campaign. “We looked at what would es around $30 to about $80 Staff from the Institute for Global Labour and be the opportunities for us to to $150. Snow helmets could Human Rights organization were able to enter really redefine our brand and eventually generate sales the Smart factory right after the fire and found elevate the existing categories Electric changed its logo. amounting to 50 to 60 per- the following labels: Bershka and Lefties, owned that we are in and actually cent of Electric’s take for by Inditex Group, the Sol’s label owned by Paris- look at new and exciting cat- snow goggles. based Solo Invest, and the Fox & Scott label reg- egories that we had always looked at doing,” said Beach. The upgraded small leather goods could play a role in istered to Sylvain Scemama in Paris. Added Crane: “The company has to broaden in order to widening Electric’s retail network. Crane said the brand “It is long overdue that Europe’s major garment grow. It has got to get out from underneath the core-only dis- is aiming to push beyond core action sports retailers labels stand up to guarantee that Bangladesh’s tribution in order to really be impactful in the marketplace.” to lifestyle boutiques initially, followed by department nearly four million garment workers finally have Crane views everything at Electric today through the stores such as Barneys New York and Nordstrom. the right to organize an independent union and to lens of it being a “premium, global sports and lifestyle All the adjustments at Electric are intended to position it bargain collectively,” the Institute said. accessory brand.” The brand’s lightning-bolt logo wasn’t not just for growth for the U.S., but for robust growth abroad. This tragedy follows on the heels of the living up to the “premium” part of that description, and Laurent Claquin, head of PPR Americas, argued there is Tazreen factory fire in November that claimed Electric decided to tweak it. The revamped logo is “a very an enthusiastic audience outside the U.S. for Electric and the lives of 111 workers in Bangladesh. Last cleaned-up version and, in my opinion, it now speaks to action sports goods as a whole. “We think that outdoor and week, apparel industry workers in Dhaka dem- definitely a broader audience. Its application will be very action sports is one of the fastest-growing segments and onstrated against Wal-Mart Stores Inc., criticizing relevant as we expand into new products. It has a defi- will continue to be one of the fastest-growing segments,” he the retailer for not doing enough to protect their nite stature. It can sit and anchor itself on a product or said. “The market worldwide used to be mainly [in] the U.S., rights. Wal-Mart revealed a zero-tolerance policy a page,” said Crane. “It has become the symbol for the Europe and Japan. It was 800 million people and now it is 3 to subcontracting on Tuesday that is scheduled to change within the brand.” billion when you add China and the BRIC countries. There go into effect on March 1. — MAYU SAINI Electric also is adding to its assortment. Currently, is a very strong appetite for these brands.” 4 WWD monday, january 28, 2013 For more images, see WWD.com/ accessories accessories-news. Despite Asia Slowdown, Watch Firms Upbeat {Continued from page one} sion because of its light weight and ability are becoming ever more sophisticated. lighted the new Quatriemè Complication, a Swiss francs, or $21.53 billion at cur- to resist shocks. The “New Nadal” shown They are traveling more and more, so of 3,400 euro, or $4,545, steel watch incorpo- rent exchange — a record in what many at SIHH takes those qualities further, with course they are adapting the way they rating some of the basic “complications” — had feared would be a tricky year. Last a total weight, including strap, of just 19 buy goods,” said Lambert. or special features — normally found only month, Richemont’s rival Swatch Group grams and a movement suspended on hair- Executives at SIHH proposed different in more expensive models. said 2012 sales leaped by 14 percent to thin cables to improve shock absorbency. strategies to adapt. For Philippe Leopold- Emphasizing innovation is also fa- more than 8 billion Swiss francs, or $8.61 Priced at $600,000 each, the 50 units being Metzger, ceo of Piaget, sharpening logis- vored by Roger Dubuis, the specialist billion — a new record and well ahead of made are “all sold,” said Mille. “By the tics is key. “China is very important, or, upmarket brand bought by Richemont market expectations. second day of the fair, we’d sold virtually better said, the Chinese consumer. One of in 2008, which is gradually raising pro- Concerns about China are overshad- everything: it’s unbelievable.” the greatest challenges we face is getting duction to a planned 4,500 units this owing the industry. François-Henry Such breathtaking prices haven’t hin- the logistics right,” said Leopold-Metzger. year. Jean-Marc Pontroué, another of Bennahmias, the new head of Audemars dered growth. Richard Mille’s revenues “My feeling is that Chinese consumers Richemont’s new generation of brand Piguet, one of Switzerland’s few remain- rose by 20 percent last year, while pro- will continue to fuel the market, but not bosses, unveiled the company’s flagship ing independent watch brands, was par- duction this year is forecast to edge up to necessarily on the mainland. There’s al- Excalibur Quatuor Silicon — a 1 million ticularly cautious. 2,700 pieces from 2,552 in 2012. ready lots of buying by Chinese tourists Swiss franc, or $1.08 million, limited edi- “I’ve just come back from Asia, and Crucial broadening of the range also in Europe. As visa restrictions are eased, tion of just three pieces, incorporating no I’m seeing a lot of inventory at many features at Ralph Lauren watches, the there will also be more, including in the less than four balance springs, 590 indi- brands,” he said. venture created over a private dinner be- U.S., where Chinese visitors are undoubt- vidual parts and making unprecedented In a rare move, influenced by the im- tween the designer and Johann Rupert, edly contributing to the rebound.” use of silicon — a lightweight but ex- pact on brand values of the steep discount- Richemont’s chairman and guiding light. Apart from ensuring the right prod- tremely hard-wearing material making ing of the 2008-09 crisis, Bennahmias has Now entering its fifth year, the uct is in the right place at the right time, an increasing impact in top-end watches. offered to buy back retailers’ surplus stock. Geneva-based venture showcased its Piaget is refocusing on its feminine, jew- Beefing up distribution is the strategy at Audemars Piguet will also hold production Parmigiani, the independent watchmaker this year at 31,000 pieces. “It’s like looking bankrolled by Switzerland’s Sandoz fam- at yourself in the mirror. We’ve been put- Piaget Richard ily foundation. Having initially concen- ting on weight; now we need to go to the Mille trated investment in production capacity gym,” he said. and technology — the company makes its Rivals suggest such radical action is own movements and is one of very few not specific to the brand. Audemars Piguet’s dependent on Swatch Group for springs — former chief executive officer, Philippe the emphasis has switched to selling, ex- Merk, departed for unexplained reasons plained ceo Jean-Marc Jacot. “Last year, last year and Bennahmias, former head of we opened three new stores in the U.S.” North America, stepped in as interim ceo. he said. He is being formally promoted this year. “We set ourselves a 15-year timescale Other brands remained more upbeat, to establish a significant brand. Some 12 while admitting sales may no longer have passed. Understandably, the initial achieve the breakneck pace of 2012. “We focus was on manufacturing. Now the still have a lot of growth potential in Asia, products are recognized and respected, including China. Don’t forget — single-dig- so the focus is shifting to distribution and it growth rates are perfectly respectable, marketing,” said Jacot. particularly after the amazing increases Juan-Carlos Torres, ceo of Vacheron we’ve seen before,” noted Nicolas Bos, ceo Roger Ralph Constantin, another Richemont brand, of Richemont’s Van Cleef & Arpels. Dubuis Lauren is also beefing up distribution — notably Speaking shortly after Swatch’s $1 bil- in the U.S. In December the company lion acquisition of Harry Winston, Bos opened a second boutique, this time in predicted further consolidation in jewelry, Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, to even though few significant independent create a West Coast presence to comple- brands remain. After Harry Winston, atten- ment its Manhattan flagship. A Beverly tion would inevitably focus on Tiffany and Hills opening has just been revealed, and possibly Italy’s Buccellati, he predicted. Miami should follow in 2014. With a view of innovation, Van Cleef “There are brands which react, and used SIHH to unveil its Enchanted there are others that have a long-term Ballerina ladies watch, inspired by strategy: we’d always been planning Russian dancer Anna Pavlova. The model, to put a special focus on the U.S. this retailing for $141,000, uses an elaborate year,” said Torres. mechanism to adjust the skirt of the balle- Amid all the concerns, some claim rina depicted on its dial to show the time. the concerns about China are exagger- Having just taken over at Cartier — ated. “The slightly softer-than-expected Richemont’s single biggest brand by sales growth patch seen in October-December — new ceo Stanislas de Quercize was wary sales was more to do with the timing of about making predictions. Formerly head the Chinese New Year, as well as poten- of Van Cleef and before that of Cartier’s first model with a tourbillon. Priced at elry side. Its new Limelight Gala ladies tially too much inventory in some parts U.S. operations, he may also have been in- $55,000, the RL67 Tourbillon — part of watch, available in two sizes and starting of the greater China region,” argued Jon fluenced by the fact that Cartier’s longtime the brand’s Safari Collection — combines at 29,000 Swiss francs, or $31,216, exem- Cox, sector analyst at Kepler Capital boss, Bernard Fornas, has been promoted one of the most challenging technical at- plifies what Leopold-Metzger calls a de- Markets in Zurich. to Richemont’s joint ceo — a powerful fig- tributes in watchmaking with the classi- sign philosophy combining creativity and Whatever the debate, no one doubts ure to be looking over one’s shoulder. cal appearance but casual elegance of relative simplicity. the long-term potential of the world’s De Quercize told WWD about how the established Safari range. By contrast, Montblanc, Richemont’s most populous nation. Georges Kern, ceo Cartier would develop. “We want to con- With the U.S. economy now in con- more midmarket watch brand, whose mod- of IWC, made a point of avoiding market tinue the Cartier values of powerful and vincing, if gradual, recovery mode, some els partly reflect the famous Meisterstuck predictions. “But you tell me: you have a genuine design that have made it a refer- brands are calculating sales in North pen of the Twenties, is stressing value. A country of 1.35 billion people, with more ence in the industry,” he said. America could take up the slack from a relatively early entrant to China, the com- than 100 cities of more than one million He admitted 2013 would be unpredict- possible slowdown in China. “America pany now has about 100 outlets, split be- inhabitants: these are realities you just able, but added: “What is certain is that started coming back 18 months ago tween wholly owned and partnerships. can’t ignore,” he said. our clients, both male and female, are at least. The USA is definitely back,” The country has become Montblanc’s Those seeking greater clarity for looking increasingly for long-term value. said Jérôme Lambert, ceo of Jaeger single most important market — not sur- 2013 will have to be patient. Data for What is growing is the expertise of the LeCoultre, one of Richemont’s most pres- prisingly, considering so many of its watch- December’s Swiss watch exports, includ- clients; that’s particularly appealing to tigious brands. “The Americas as a whole es, writing instruments and leather acces- ing breakdowns by country and full-year a company like ours, with its values and are developing very nicely.” sories are given as presents or tokens of 2012 statistics, will only emerge on Feb. heritage. Our response is the 113 new Lambert played down concerns about appreciation. “It’s true that in some areas 5. And for the most representative sense creations we’re showing at SIHH.” China, as long as executives understand we had a more difficult time in 2012,” ac- of how 2013 is panning out, observers Innovation is also key at Richard the dynamics of Chinese consumption. knowledged ceo Lutz Bethge. “Whether will have to await Baselworld — the big, Mille, the high-tech watch brand named “Our Asian clientele remains highly ac- that will continue or not, I can’t say.” Swatch Group-dominated watch and jew- after its founder. While output is a frac- tive. But it’s true the business model is To address the challenge, Montblanc, elry show that is Swiss watchmaking’s tion of powerhouses like Cartier, inde- evolving — why should watches be unlike whose steel watches cost between 2,000 second core event alongside SIHH. pendently owned Richard Mille special- other consumer goods?” he asked. euros and 10,000 euros, or $2,667 and Pushed back slightly this year to late izes in complex pieces and mechanistic That means China’s increasingly $13,300, is focusing on its 2,000 euro to 5,000 April to accommodate a major expan- designs using radical new materials. globe-trotting consumers will buy ever euro, or $2,667 to $6,685, bracket, where it sion of Basel’s trade fair site, Baselworld Mille’s Nadal limited edition, named more products abroad, where prices wants to emphasize value. “We want to offer should provide the complement to SIHH after Spanish tennis star Rafael Nadal, are generally cheaper. Watchmakers in this price range features others don’t for those seeking a real finger on the had already made waves in its first ver- will have to react. “Chinese consumers have,” said Bethge. As an example, he high- pulse of Swiss watchmaking in 2013.

w28a004(5)b;7.indd 4 1/27/13 3:12 PM 01272013151323 WWD monday, january 28, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Kimberly method of design is that the Ovitz quick production turnaround Kimberly Ovitz’s Tech Take on Jewelry in her time — two to three weeks — al- line comprising a collar, ear cuffs Shapeways’ technology allows designs. lows for the immediacy now de- By RACHEL STRUGATZ in various sizes, rings and brace- talent to digitally manipulate manded in the fashion industry. lets in either black, dove-gray or the materials in a way not pos- “It’s revolutionizing the im- KIMBERLY OVITZ’S first jew- cobalt-blue nylon and stainless sible using traditional design mediacy of fashion. I want to elry is markedly tech savvy. steel with an antique finish. Save processes. Her designs are origi- infuse technology into what I Most of the pieces, making for the collar, the most traditional nally produced on white nylon do. It’s the future,” Ovitz said, Despite Asia Slowdown, Watch Firms Upbeat their debut at the designer’s of the group, Ovitz sought to cre- and then dyed the desired color, noting she plans to make acces- runway show during New York ate a more alternative take on which Ovitz purposely kept pre- sories a permanent category of Fashion Week on Feb. 7, are contemporary jewelry, such as dominantly neutral and focused her four-year-old business. created via 3-D printing from a ring that extends and hugs the on just four colors. Prices range She wants to take it a step fur-

structured, lightweight nylon area between the index finger from about $50 for a small ear sen ther as well. In addition to allow- K

and produced through a part- and the thumb or a bracelet that cuff to $150 for a nylon collar (the ric ing consumers to order jewelry nership with 3-D printing mar- wraps around the wrist and con- stainless steel version will retail e from her Web site, kimberlyo-

ketplace Shapeways. nects to the hand with a ring. for between $400 and $500). Kyle vitz.com, directly after it walks Ovitz said she “didn’t want to Wearing one of her own black “I looked at animals and in- down the runway, Ovitz wants to do your typical foray into jew- nylon collars paired with a sects and how they have innate get the customer involved going elry” for her premier Kimberly T-shirt, skinny jeans and lace-up protection systems. I saw a lot Photo by forward. Eventually, she will Ovitz With Shapeways collection. boots (also all black), the 30-year- of armor, camouflage and colors fense mechanisms” inspiration use crowdsourcing to get input The statement has dual meaning, old designer acknowledged the I would expect to be synthetic for jewelry and the fall 2013 from followers about colors and as it applies to both the materials pieces could never have existed but you actually see in nature,” ready-to-wear collection. will even let them personalize and the styles in the five-piece without the digital world, where Ovitz said of her “natural de- Another attraction of this their own pieces. Laura Wass Goes WXYZ LAURA WASS is fascinated by structures that are constructed from repeated elements. The University of Pennsylvania graduate spent two years work- ing with Philip Crangi before founding her own line, WXYZ Jewelry, last year. The collection, for her, is about exploring uncon- ventional production methods that are oftentimes highly tech- nical, including die casting origi- nal used-car parts, laser cutting and injection molding for rubber. She also discovered a company that works predominantly with etching computer and medical parts in New England to help in the production of her 3-D print- ed stainless steel pieces. “The way that data is built, it’s a series of individual compo- nents. My design process mirrors

WXYZ Jewelry’s Hinged Staircase cuff. the way technical information is built. It uses repeated individual elements to construct and build a new form in which those elements are transformed,” Wass said. The designer’s Digital Heart, a massive statement necklace comprising just one shape that is repeated and stacked together to create a tiered form, is a prime example. “If one were to disas- semble it, it would be a pile of 255 slices of stainless steel and green plastic,” she said. For fall, the collection of about 30 pieces ranges from $50 for a small bracelet to about $1,000 for etched steel items and larger necklaces with special fin- ishes such as an iridescent rain- bow. (Wass discovered this tech- nique while in an online forum for guns after learning the finish is often used to coat firearms.) This particular finish, which Wass calls “oil slick,” is used in many of her pieces, from Circuit corset bracelets and necklaces of varying sizes to the Hinged Staircase cuff, fashioned from woven rubber tubes and hand- soldered gunmetal. The line is available at wxyxjewelry.com. —R.S.

w28a004(5)a;6.indd 5 1/25/13 8:17 PM 01252013201939 6 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 AccessoriesPre-Fall 2013

FAR-FROM-BORING BASICS ARE THE CALL OF THE SEASON — AND A HINT OF WHAT’S TO COME FOR FALL. — ROXANNE ROBINSON

3.1 PHILLIP LIM CASADEI EDDIE BORGO

FOR A COMPLETE PRE-FALL ACCESSORIES ROUNDUP, SEE WWD.com/ accessories-news.

CHANEL THE ROW MIU MIU

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA RALPH LAUREN VERSACE

VALENTINO BALENCIAGA REED KRAKOFF WWD Monday, January 28, 2013 7 WWD.COM

dior narciso rodriguez michael Kors

lanVin Jimmy choo Jason wu

gucci giVenchy Pierre hardy one ACC nn iA

s A hom t nd A sen CK ri e Chinsee, Kyle e G Geor John Aquino, by

nina ricci stella mccartney louis Vuitton Photos

w28a006(7-8)a;3.indd 2 1/25/13 8:14 PM 01252013201523 8 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 WWD.COM ACCESSORIES PRE-FALL 2013

REBECCA MINKOFF ETRO MAWI FOR BRUNO MAGLI

BURBERRY PRORSUM PAUL ANDREW TORY BURCH

FOR A COMPLETE PRE-FALL ACCESSORIES ROUNDUP, SEE WWD.com/ accessories-news.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA SONIA RYKIEL DEREK LAM ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE JOHN AQUINO,

ALEXANDER WANG WALTER STEIGER EMILIO PUCCI PHOTOS BY WWD monday, january 28, 2013 9 WWD.COM

ing and reordering process. retailers can see products online and learn what NuOrder Site Attracts New Investors sizes and styles are available immedi- ately and when they would be available. marketplace of products. currently, the listed on the Web site are about 200 Buyers typically take their own photos By DAviD MoiN company has 32 employees in its los labels, including levi Strauss, Adidas, of products when they visit showrooms, Angeles and New York offices. helmut lang, elizabeth & James, Milly, but Nuorder provides professional NuorDer, the online and mobile mar- “Women’s fashion has obviously been Parker, Ted Baker, citizens of humanity, shots. it helps buyers organize their ketplace linking retailers and fashion a very strong area for us and a key focus hurley and Supra, representing a range buys and store information. “This is a wholesalers, has four new investors bring- especially after opening our New York of fashion from basic denim to cutting two-way exchange,” Wells said. “it al- ing money and expertise to the enterprise. city office,” Wells said. “People like edge contemporary styles to surf wear. lows sales reps to sell more effectively The investor group now includes Betsee, Adam and Khajak understand The system is geared to save retail- and retailers to buy more effectively. Adam Bernhard, chief executive officer this segment better than anyone. This ers paperwork, trips to showrooms and The number-one goal is to eliminate of hautelook; Sam Ben-Avraham, found- support ensures we don’t just deliver the trade shows, and to speed the order- pen and paper. if you look at how much er and former president of the Project best solution but continue to drive way e-commerce has changed the way con- trade show, and owner of the Atrium beyond the competition.” sumers spend, we are going through the specialty stores; Betsee isenberg, owner it’s not the only digital marketplace same revolution in wholesale.” of the 10eleven Showroom, and Khajak out there, but Nuorder seems to be “Nuorder is the only way brands Keledjian, co-founder of intermix. gaining momentum. last fall, Nuorder and retailers should conduct According to Nuorder, the investments secured over $3 million in growth capi- wholesale. Anyone stuck are all from the individuals, not from the tal from GrP Partners, creative Artists using paper is living in the companies they are associated with. Agency and rachel Zoe inc. The inves- dark ages,” said Sam Ben- “We will have a weekly dialogue with tor list also includes Greycroft, Aileen Avraham. According to Adam these new investors. They will be proac- lee, David Tisch, Bonobus’ Brian Spaly Bernhard, “Nuorder is a tively involved,” said heath Wells who, and Marvin Traub Associates chief ex- smart technology that is going along with his wife olivia Skuza, launched ecutive officer Mortimer Singer. to streamline the wholesale Nuorder in August 2011. The two previ- Since the launch, the system has han- marketplace of the fash- ously ran a digital advertising agency. dled about 50,000 orders from many re- ion industry.” retailers Nuorder officials said the equity in- tailers, representing 1.35 million items, The NuOrder that are using or have fusion will enable them to staff up for according to Wells and Skuza. retailers system used Nuorder include growth, improve customer service, in- are not charged for utilizing Nuorder, streamlines Bloomingdale’s, Fred Segal, crease marketing, advertising and spon- while brands are charged fees based on the ordering opening ceremony, Nordstrom sorships of trade shows, and expand its how many people use the system. process for buyers. and urban outfitters.

Hermès Unveils Penney’s Readies Launch of Lepore Line

oN FriDAY, J.c. Penney co. inc. takes a big step Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue, but her connec- ‘Comme des Carrés’ forward in what’s shaping up to be a pivotal tion to Penney’s runs deep. “From the time i was spring season. a kid growing up in Youngstown, ohio, between By Joelle DiDerich That’s when Penney’s launches “l’amour the ages of 12 and 15, i spent Saturday afternoons Nanette lepore” junior shops simultaneously shopping for fabrics at J.c. Penney,” lepore said, PAriS — hermès international has offered the first in 600 stores and on jcpenney.com featur- noting that she started sewing garments when glimpse of its collaboration with rei Kawakubo on ing merchandise designed exclusively by she was very young. lepore is most popular on limited-edition silk carré scarves. Nanette lepore. The shops will be 300 to the east and West coasts, though she feels her The first collection, called Noir et Blanc, features 500 square feet each. reputation extends to the middle-American five scarves with abstract black-and-white designs. “it’s a fun, stylish, full line with Penney’s customer. “They know me, too. This is The Touch Me scarf features a checkerboard pat- kind of a quirky edge,” said Siiri going to be big.” tern overlaid on a furry-looking scrawl. Thalassa Dougherty, Penney’s senior vice The most anticipated addition to Penney’s shows an abstract drawing of rowboats overlaid with president and general merchan- this spring is Joe Fresh, which in March rolls oversize polka dots, while cheval Surprise juxtapos- dise manager of women’s apparel. out inside 683 stores with shop-in-shops from es an ink-blot pattern with a strip of gingham checks. “l’amour fills a void in the merchan- 1,000 to 2,500 square feet each. Also coming this The second collection, couleur, is a line of six col- dising for older juniors, in the 15- to year are shops for Martha Stewart, Jonathan orful scarves also including geometric elements like 20-year-old range.” Adler, Michael Graves, carter’s, cosmopolitan giant patchwork, gingham and shirt stripes. Dougherty was part of the crowd at intimate apparel and Giggle baby clothes. “i have always Thursday’s l’amour launch party at the Penney’s is also seeking the right pric- deeply respect- hudson hotel in Manhattan, where lepore ing formula, after losing many customers as ed the tradition and her daughter, violet, who was an impor- a consequence of eliminating coupons and and craftsman- tant source of ideas in creating the collection, sales and moving to everyday low prices last ship of hermès,” previewed the line. it’s priced right for the year. last Friday, William Ackman, the ac- Kawakubo said. value-minded Penney’s customer — the high- tivist investor and chief executive officer of “in our project est-priced item is the “moto” jacket for $50; Pershing Square capital Management, said together, rather the lowest are the $17 heart T-shirts and lace on cNBc that Penney’s pricing scheme “looks than wanting to bralets. l’amour also features flirty dresses, to be a balance between everyday low pric- wear the scarves, denim, silk-screen merchandise and lots of ing and sales and other ways to drive traf- i was looking for- bright, vivid colors, but as Penney’s execu- fic and to give the customer value, which is ward to the change tives pointed out, everything is priced $50 or something the company stands for.” Ackman that would hap- under. There will be monthly deliveries, with Penney’s is a member of Penney’s board and controls pen when i added 12 styles for the launch. currently, l’amour targets about 25 percent of the company’s stock. he something to the can be preordered online. juniors also helped install ron Johnson as Penney’s beautiful ‘paint- lepore designs a contemporary collec- with chairman and ceo. ings’ of hermès tion sold at such luxury stores as Bergdorf L’amour. — D.M. A scarf from Hermès’ Comme scarf designs. i des Carrés collaboration with think through the Rei Kawakubo. addition of abstract images, we have transformed the scarf and created something new,” Alice & Olivia Collaborates With Pretty Polly she added. Bali Barret, creative director of women’s silks at the personality of both brands. california and connecticut. The hermès, said, “rei Kawakubo has stamped her vi- By KArYN MoNGeT “i love legwear,” said Bendet. “i legwear will also be sold at alice- sion on the hermès scarf with rigor, precision, en- feel like it’s such an important com- andolivia.com and prominent e- ergy and salience.” Alice + oliviA by Stacey ponent to how we style and wear tailers including Net-a-porter and The comme des carrés collection will go on sale Bendet has entered into a collabo- our clothes. its sexy, girly and fun.” Shopbop. A price range was not Feb. 6 at the comme des Garçons shop in Paris, Feb. ration with u.K. legwear special- She said the legwear collection available. 7 at the comme des Garçons shop in New York and ist Pretty Polly to launch a leg- will comprise several groups, in- Deanna Berkeley, president of Feb. 8 at the at the comme des Garçons shop in wear line called Alice + olivia by cluding basic and fashion tights and Alice + olivia, described the leg- Aoyama, Tokyo, and the Dover Street Market Ginza Pretty Polly. semisheer styles for career and party wear category as a “natural exten- shop in Tokyo. This will be the first legwear col- dressing. There will also be a novelty sion” for the brand. From Feb. 12, it will be available at the Dover lection for the trendy ready-to-wear line for the “quintessential Alice + “it is our intention to have Street Market shop in london. The collection will go brand. it will make its debut Feb. olivia girl that is quirky, feminine an ongoing presence for Alice + on sale online at doverstreetmarket.com from Feb. 6 11 at the Alice + olivia by Stacey and sexy.” olivia in the hosiery market and for the couleur collection and from April 1 for the Bendet presentation during New colors will include black, navy, we feel it could represent over Noir et Blanc collection. York Fashion Week. plum, dark red and green. Prints will $25 million at retail within its first The scarves in the Noir et Blanc collection will Bendet, chief executive offi- include polka dots and plaid patterns. three years,” said Berkeley. “This be priced at about 380 euros, or $512 at current ex- cer and creative officer of Alice + Distribution is aimed at major collaboration with Pretty Polly is change, while those in the couleur line will be posi- olivia, said the collection of tights department and specialty stores, the first step to a larger strategic tioned between 380 euros and 1,600 euros ($2,154 at and sheer hosiery will feature mod- as well as 10 freestanding Alice initiative of the brand’s develop- current exchange). ern, playful pieces that will reflect + olivia boutiques in New York, ment in the hosiery category.”

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Arizona Muse in Louis Family Style Vuitton.

Jacqui Getty in Ferragamo, Jennifer Meyer and Demi Moore.

Jesse Jo Stark and Gia Coppola

eye GRAVESAMY Kelly Sawyer Patricof in FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Ferragamo with Nicole Richie.

WWD.com/eye. STEPHANE FEUGERE BY PHOTOS Juliette Binoche in Theory “IT FEELS LIKE a family dinner,” said shepherded everyone into the long and and Hilary Swank in Elie Saab.

Jacqui Getty, surrounded by friends Demi narrow sunroom of Bungalow One, which PHOTOS BY Moore, Rosanna Arquette, Brigette Romanek, had been transformed into a catwalk with Linda Ramone, Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela banquettes on both sides. “ Yo u know I die Nash-Taylor on Thursday night as she hosted for every look in that show,” said Rachel Zoe In on the Action a presentation of Salvatore Ferragamo’s to husband Rodger Berman. Sitting across spring collection at Chateau Marmont with the runway, Nicole Richie, Hedi Gores and Kelly Harper’s Bazaar. “Gia, stop laughing at your Patricof nodded in approval. Dinner was THE ANNUAL SIDACTION Gala at Lara Fabian revealed she’d be mother,” she implored Coppola, who was served at two long tables set up in the living the tail end of couture week in Paris performing a number from her seated at the kids’ table with Nathalie Love, room, where Peggy Lipton mused of the over- is a chance for fashion folk to let their upcoming album, “The Secret,” at a Emma Roberts and Zoe Sidel. the-knee open-toe boots: “Those were some hair down — in Peter Marino’s case, dinner due to be held by Sidaction In an effort to mix up the by-now-familiar amazing shoes, but what would you wear a shaggy Mohawk dyed navy blue. president Pierre Bergé on Sunday night Chateau fashion event, Ferragamo started them to?” Moore, of course, was sporting a Propping his leather cap back on his following a pro-gay marriage and the evening with poolside cocktails, then pair for dinner. — MARCY MEDINA head, the architect settled into his adoption rally in Paris. “It’s a very seat, flexing a bicep for willowy art gentle song with a very important dealer Almine Rech. “It’s really hard,” theme that speaks to the occasion,” she nodded approvingly. she said. Time Warp Designers and celebrities poured “I love your voice, you should be into the Pavillon d’Armenonville a singer,” said Canadian electronic for the annual fund-raising event artist Claire Boucher, aka Grimes, “IF THEY’RE starting that young, we’re for AIDS research and patient care. admiring the gravelly voice of fellow in trouble,” said Arie Kopelman, chairman Oscar winners Juliette Binoche and Chanel guest Anna Mouglalis. “I hate my of the 59th annual Winter Antiques Show. Hilary Swank fell into conversation and voice, I sound like a baby. I’m always The opening night party at New York’s traded contact details. Swank said jealous of that kind of voice, and Park Avenue Armory was in full swing her next film project would be “The then when I smoke, I just lose mine,” Diana Taylor, Mayor on Thursday night, and his nine-year-old Homesman,” opposite Meryl Streep and Boucher shrugged. Michael Bloomberg and granddaughter, Sadie Kargman, had taken a Tommy Lee Jones, but she stiffened when Several guests wore attention- Bill Cunningham. liking to the antique jewelry cases. talk turned to fashion projects. She getting accessories. Androgynous “The knives are pretty cool, too,” she said. was the guest of honor at Gérard Darel’s model Andrej Pejic sported an ornate A full suit of armor, circa 1580, from Caroline Martha table, prompting speculation that she nose ring, while shoe designer the dealer Peter Finer was also proving to Kennedy Stewart could be the next American actress to Charlotte Olympia hugged a clutch be a big draw. Coco Kopelman, however, was front its advertising campaign. that resembled an outsize bottle of more interested in the smaller artworks. “Who knows?” Gérard Darel vintage perfume. “The best pieces are the ones you can president Marianne Romestain demurred. But the ever-outrageous Marino put under your arm. Or better yet, on it,” Binoche is on an artistic streak. had them beat, with three small silver she said, making a beeline for a pair of Having recently wrapped a film in daggers banging against his leather diamond brooches. which she portrays sculptor Camille vest. “Now I wear weapons around Martha Stewart, Caroline Kennedy and Mayor Claudel, she’s heading to Vancouver my neck, so it’s easier to pass through Michael Bloomberg stopped by on the early in March to star opposite Clive Owen airport security,” he joked. “I’ve got side of the evening. With benefactor tickets as an art teacher and painter in Fred meat cleavers, too.” running between $1,000 and $2,500, the Schepisi’s “Words and Pictures.” — WWD STAFF show’s total net proceeds supported the East Side Settlement, which has owned and “The color is beautiful. I love the pouf produced the show since its inception. A of the back of the hip and there’s the tulle Lindsey Clémence total of 73 exhibitors, including a special with the stones…It’s fabulous looking,” Wixson Poésy loan exhibition, “Newport: The Glamour of she said. “I’m anxious to see what’s on in Louis Ornament,” were on display. The elaborate sale and look around.” Vuitton. room celebrated The Preservation Society Catherine Sweeney Singer, the show’s of Newport County and showcased antiques executive director, was such a fan of the from eight different homes — none of dress that she was almost inspired to which were up for sale. design and sew her own contemporary Jean Shafiroff focused her camera phone version of it. on the room’s standout: a silk brocade “I think this is the first loan exhibition evening gown circa 1890 by Charles in which we’ve had a garment,” she said. Frederick Worth with an 18-inch waist. “There’s also the boating costume in the room. I don’t know if we’ll ever have a dealer Peter Brant Jr. in costume or vintage…but I hope this sets a and Peter Brant new precedent for the show. The show is not high-fashion by any means — we don’t even mention a dress code — but some people do make an effort.” A look around the crowd confirmed that sentiment. For Somers Farkas, a couple hours of antiques browsing would not suffice. “1stDibs is hosting a breakfast EICHNER STEVE Dita Von Teese in Elie tomorrow to take us through a curated Saab and Fan Bingbing tour, so I’ll learn more,” she said. in Louis Vuitton.

BY PHOTOS — KRISTI GARCED WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 11 WWD.COM

By Friday, there were 20 buyouts, according to Politico. The Times declined FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD comment Friday. Abramson said the Times is also AVOIDING THE SUBJECT: Two hours after working to diversify its offerings to ON SECOND THOUGHT: Two weeks after president of Coty Prestige. The the deadline passed for New York Times readers. “There are a couple of things publicly announcing that she would collection features rose centifolia editors to step up for the buyouts sought we’re looking at expanding, like not be having a runway show, Betsey complex and is intended to impart by management, executive editor Jill expanding coverage around certain Johnson has changed her mind and “radiance,” noted Mortier. “This Abramson appeared at a panel convened individual people,” she said, without will be back at next month’s New York is not an ancillary play,” Mortier by The New Republic to ponder “the elaborating, though it seemed like a Fashion Week. The designer will have emphasized. “We are launching a unexpected future of media.” reference to Times star blogger Nate Silver. her models lined up and ready to go well-researched skin-care line.” The elephant in the room was the Pepler and Abramson might not in the Lincoln Center tents Feb. 11 at Added Françoise Mariez, senior vice speculation about layoffs at the Times seem like the most natural coupling, but 5 p.m. Johnson said, “I just could not president of marketing for European to compensate for the downturn in the two media companies have a long- licenses at Coty advertising revenue. Then there was standing relationship. HBO has brought Prestige: “This the loss of institutional knowledge and to the small screen adaptations of several Bestey Johnson and Fern Mallis allows us to take memory following the exodus of nine books written by Times reporters, most advantage of the love veteran editors, including assistant recently, “Too Big To Fail” by Andrew Ross for the fragrance managing editors Jim Roberts and John Sorkin, and is currently working on “The brand in a market Geddes, who took the buyouts. Wizard of Lies” by Diana B. Henriques. that is primarily The New Republic editor and The panel, sponsored by Pfizer, came driven by skin care.” moderator for the panel Frank Foer did as The New Republic, under new owner The line is expected not ask about the possible layoffs, and Chris Hughes, was preparing to debut the to enter additional Abramson did not bring it up. Afterward, redesign of its print magazine and Web site, Asian countries by she avoided questions from a reporter. now under creative director Dirk Barnett, on year-end 2013. Abramson’s co-panelist was HBO chief Monday. For the issue, the magazine landed — JULIE NAUGHTON executive officer Richard Pepler. an interview with Barack Obama conducted Abramson instead presented a strong by Hughes and Foer. — ERIK MAZA THE INN THING: defense of the Times’ strategy to charge Adding some fashion for its journalism online. “Digitally, what VANITY CASE: The much-awaited French star power to its we’ve found is that if your content is a edition of Vanity Fair will hit newsstands in PHOTO BY AN RONG XU FOR 92Y PHOTO BY expansion in Asia, unique, high-quality mix of news, and it’s June, Condé Nast France said. The monthly stay away from fashion week. I wanted Sofitel has tapped Karl Lagerfeld to intelligently presented and beautifully magazine is to make its debut with the July to do this for myself and for all of my design the emblem for its new Sofitel displayed in a way that honors the issue. It will be priced at around 4 euros, or fans to show that I’ve still got it and I So Singapore, slated to open in July, intelligence of our readers, we could ask $5.40 at current exchange. am not going anywhere.” WWD has learned. The emblem is to our readers to pay,” she said. “That was Condé Nast France is investing 15 In a Q&A with Fern Mallis at 92Y symbolize the hotel’s unique style and two years ago, and everyone said, ‘You’ll million euros, or $20 million at current earlier this month, Johnson said her appear on a range of items for guest never get anyone to pay. The news has to exchange, by 2014 in the new venture. commercially viable collection was not use during their stays. The logo will be free.’ We challenged that and proved a Run by veteran journalist Michel Denisot, catwalk worthy. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG be unveiled this spring. lot of people wrong.” the editorial team has about 30 people. Housed in a former In September, the Times said it In addition to the nominations previously GOING GREEN AT OSCARS: Amid the telecommunications and postal had 566,000 paid digital subscribers, announced, including Anne Boulay, former couture creations on display at building constructed in 1927, the exceeding early expectations. Still, the editor in chief of the French edition of next month’s Academy Awards, five-star property is to span 134 guest advertising losses — down 9 percent in GQ, as editor in chief, and Virginie Mouzat as British actress Naomie Harris will rooms, of which 23 are suites. Robert the third quarter — pushed the paper to editor in chief overseeing fashion, lifestyle wear this year’s Red Carpet Green Gaymer-Jones, chief executive officer of seek buyouts, and if Abramson doesn’t and feature stories, there will be Philippe Dress. The initiative, founded by Sofitel Luxury, said Lagerfeld’s design get 30 from non-Guild staffers, mainly, Mathon as the editor in chief of the Vanity actress and environmentalist Suzy prowess would “confer on our emblem editors, she has said she’ll seek layoffs. Fair Web site. — LAURE GUILBAULT Amis Cameron (wife of James Cameron), the ultimate touch of refinement and this year chose a design by 20-year- enhance our concept.” old Ghana-born designer Michael The French hotel operator applies Badger. “Michael’s entry was entirely the So name to its boutique hotels, inspired by nature, which should “characterized by a stylish focus inspire us all to care a little more on contemporary design by famous than we do,” said Amis Cameron. architects and/or embellished by Serving as Badger’s mentor is international celebrities from the Vivienne Westwood, a member of this world of fashion, design or art.” For For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. year’s judging committee. “I think example, Christian Lacroix lent his Red Carpet Green Dress is a great Baroque touch to Sofitel So Bangkok idea and I also wanted to tap into and conceived its “tree of life” Suzy’s research about ethical fabrics emblem, while Kenzo Takada provided for my own work,” said Westwood, input into the Sofitel So Mauritius. Spaces who will help Badger realize his — MILES SOCHA PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS vision with her team of dressmakers. Full service shop to the trade. (The dress will be hand-embroidered TV CLOSE-UP: Both Christian Siriano and COMMERCIAL Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 at Hampton Court Palace by the Royal Padma Lakshmi come with notable REAL ESTATE School of Needlework.) small-screen experience — he SALES MANAGER Well known womens’ apparel manufac- As for whether Westwood will won the fourth season of “Project turer in need of an individual with pro- make it to Hollywood next month, Runway”; she is the host on Bravo’s ven ability to manage a sales team; Po- sition requires excellent analytical, she said: “We’re very interested in “Top Chef.” No surprise, really, that communication, follow up skills, with the Oscars because we want women both are using television to sell Showrooms & Lofts established relationships with stores. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Send resumes to: to look their most glamorous, but some merch. On Feb. 22, Siriano will Great ’New’ Office Space Avail [email protected] I can’t come because I will be debut Striking by Christian Siriano, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Development Director working on my collections and, a capsule line, on HSN priced Cremieux Menswear seeking business Development Director with executive more importantly, on bringing about from $79.90 to $169.90. Lakshmi, sales experience to oversee and guide the Climate Revolution by 2020,” meanwhile, is already on the home the execution of all licensing develop- ment. Contacts beneficial. Please referring to the U.K. environmental shopping channel in a culinary email cover letter, resume, and refer- organization she supports. capacity, but she is branching into ences to [email protected] This year’s Red Carpet Green jewelry under the PL by Padma Retail Sourcing Manager Dress partner is Cradle to Cradle Lakshmi brand. Priced from $16 to Visual Merchandising Company: Un- derstand raw materials, mfg, freight, Products Innovation Institute, which $90, the pieces will launch on the Opportunity Canada estimating and Int’l business. Develop helps sustain eco-friendly business network on March 22. If you have an accessories (any kind, li- prototypes and manufacture custom censed, branded, generic) company look- visual display products. Min. 5 yrs. in practices. Samata Angel, RCGD’s — MARC KARIMZADEH ing to expand into Canada, get in touch related position. Please email: global campaign director, said Harris with us; well established, well connected [email protected] with all retailers in Canada. Send info to: was selected not just for her looks and POP-UP PARTY: Accessories e-tailer great opportunities [email protected] talent but also because she shares BaubleBar has turned two, and plans similar values, adding: “Our project to turn its birthday into a birth month. is about considered creations — The company will launch its first beautiful fashion that does not cost brick-and-mortar retail experience the earth.” — MARCY MEDINA — a 1,000-square-foot pop-up shop AFFORDABLE DOMESTIC PRODUCTION Low prices, high quality, quick turn. called BaubleBar Unwrapped — at Full production service & QC. 30 yrs. exp. Factories for high end to budget. COMING UP ROSES: Coty’s got unusual 344 West 14th Street in Manhattan’s Brimax Designs. Call 646-641-3625 new plans for its powerhouse Chloé Meatpacking District from Feb. 1 to New York Embroidery Studio fragrance: Crème de la Rose, a 16. (The 16 is a nod to how the e-tailer Embroidery, Laser Cutting & facial skin-care collection for the got its beginnings: cofounders Amy Jain Embellishments Full service shop to the trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or Asian market that was inspired by and Daniella Yacobovsky share the same [email protected] the fashion house’s first fragrance birthday, on Aug. 16.) The shop will and its signature rose note. The four offer an array of the e-tailer’s signature stockkeeping-unit lineup — a serum, pieces — such as its best-selling bangle a water lotion, an oil and a cream bar — with prices ranging from $15 to (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] moisturizer — will bow in Japan in $250, and every shopper will leave with two doors in April, noted Jean Mortier, a free gift. — KRISTI GARCED 12 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 WWD.COM Fendi to Fund Roman Fountains’ Restoration {Continued from page one} Beccari said he spies “big po- leveraging its reputation and The Trevi fountain in Rome. tential” for ready-to-wear and

know-how as an haute furrier furs at Fendi, the latter being a and realizing the expansion po- potent calling card, given the ca- tential of its men’s wear and pabilities of the firm’s haute fur home furnishings. atelier at the headquarters in The Fendi for Fountains Rome, which employs 35 people, initiative, whose acronym is a some of whom have more than

wink to the famous “FF” logo four decades of experience. “In Lagerfeld designed in 1965, rep- a way, it’s a bit of our jewelry resents an important communica- business,” he said, noting that tions vector for the brand, which prices for a made-to-order coat has been a pioneer in putting in Russian frosted sable can run craftsmanship back on the con- up to 500,000 euros, or $666,645. sumer agenda. Fendi will also ’’ Men’s wear, which accounts continue to cultivate links with for less than 10 percent of the industrial design via high-profile business, also has expansion events such as Design Miami and potential. During men’s fash- the Salone Internazionale del ion week in Milan earlier this Mobile in Milan. month, Fendi displayed its new Beccari declined to pinpoint “sport-chic type of approach,” the financial commitment for Beccari noted. restorations, but it is estimated At present, men’s products to be in the millions of euros. are carried in about 50 Fendi According to the City of stores, with only a handful of Rome’s Web site, the facade of men’s-only boutiques, including the Trevi needs work costing a recently opened unit in The around 2.5 million euros, or $3.3 Landmark in Hong Kong. million at current exchange. “Our focus in the future will The last significant restoration be to open more and more dedi- of the Baroque edifice, complet- cated spaces [for men] starting ed in 1762 and glorified in mov- in 2014,” Beccari said. ies including “La Dolce Vita,” Key retail openings for the dates back to 1989. The lifestyle…is also brand in general this year in- Beccari noted that works clude relocated and expanded on the Trevi would be done in important for this type units on Via Napoleone in Milan stages, so visitors can continue and Avenue Montaigne in Paris, to toss coins in its waters, a ges- where Fendi will more than ture said to ensure a visitor’s re- of customer who wants double its presence. New loca- turn to the Eternal City. tions are slated for New Bond Fendi will not plaster its beautiful stories, Street in London as well as name on hoarding, preferring, Fendi’s first boutique in Brazil, upon completion of the refur- and beautiful stories a unit in São Paulo’s Cidade bishment, a small plaque at the Jardim. The latter opening will site that will signal the contribu- come in tandem with an exhibi- tion of Fendi, Beccari said. belong to Rome. tion of historical Baguette bags. “Consumers want not only to For Fendi Casa, Beccari hint- buy a product, but to know the — PIETRO BECCARI, FENDI ed at the possibility of collabo- story behind it, the legend behind rations with designers and other the brand,” he said, explaining Fendi’s chief creative engines, initiatives to “make it even that the colors, history and life- Lagerfeld and Fendi, also fre- The new Be Baguette bag. more aspirational.” The Casa style of Rome are all crucial to quently reference the city in range, with licensing partner the brand’s creative legacy. “The their collections. er goods and men’s wear, fre- vice president, Beccari said he lifestyle, the fact of being Italian, Beccari cited a 1978 ready- quently gives Roman names to was driving in Rome last summer is also important for this type of to-wear and fur collection by her designs, such as the Biga when the radio news revealed Pietro customer who wants beautiful Lagerfeld that was in the col- and Giano bags, and is a key fig- that chunks of the Trevi had bro- Beccari stories, and beautiful stories be- ors of the palazzos and skies ure in the city’s fashion scene. ken off. Within 20 minutes, he was long to Rome.” of Rome, and another built on For instance, she’s president of on the phone with colleagues to In 1980, the Fendi sisters patchworks inspired by the AltaRoma, a fashion week that see what Fendi could do. published a book devoted to the topography the German design- runs through Tuesday. An upbeat and driven ex- fountains of Rome, sharing their er spied from the plane as he ar- ’’A native of Parma who took ecutive, Beccari also worked impressions of the structures’ rived at the city. the helm of Fendi after a five-year at Reckitt Benckiser in Milan, historical and artistic import. Fendi, who heads up leath- stint as Louis Vuitton’s executive Parmalat in New York and Henkel in Germany before en- tering the fashion industry. Looks from the Beccari said Fendi would con- pre-fall collection. tinue its upscale drive, weeding out wholesale distribution of its leather goods. Its hit Peekaboo bag, for example, is sold almost exclusively at its own network of directly owned stores, which now number more than 200. Clubhouse Italia/Luxury Living, The company also intends dates back to 1987. to put creative and marketing Fendi is selling its pre-fall muscle behind its iconic prod- women’s collection at Rome’s ucts. Last year, Fendi celebrated Maxxi museum, a range that the 15th birthday of its famous includes a new version of the Baguette bag — the shoulder Baguette, called the Be Baguette, jewel that catapulted Fendi in with an external pocket for hand- the late Nineties, sparking a held devices and a handle made bidding war for the company of chain and leather. between LVMH and Prada — The firm also boasts show- with a Rizzoli tome, reeditions rooms and press offices at its of popular styles and a series of 38,000-square-foot new Milan pop-up shops. space, the former Spazio Sales of Baguette “more than Pomodoro, which is now home doubled” last year, Beccari said, to Fendi’s women’s rtw shows, hinting that a similar tack could boasting what Beccari bills as be applied to its Selleria range, the longest catwalk in Milan, which dates back to 1938, or the stretching 260 feet. breakout 2012 hit, Toujours. Other development initia- “Animating the icons — we be- tives include a complete re- lieve in this,” he said. “My credo design of the Web site, slated is we should build on our strength for the second half of this year, — the strength of the past and the which will add a strong audio-vi- strength of the future.” sual component, Beccari noted.

w28a012a;7.indd 12 1/25/13 8:27 PM 01252013202755 SECTION II WWD INTIMATES AND LEGWEAR

Florals are long a favorite motif for lingerie designers, and for fall they worked the patterns in a rich Seeking New palette of painterly abstractions. Here, Markets In Bloom by Jonquil’s polyester, lace-edged kimono and shorts and By the nylon and spandex lace camisole. For more on Numbers the season’s trends, see pages 8 to 14. The Fraud Fighters What’s an

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY Angel Worth? BOBBI QUEEN AND LAUREN MONTGOMERY MODEL: ASH/DNA; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY OLAN MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI SALON NYC SALON MODEL: ASH/DNA; OLAN HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI SECTION II WWD.COM TheWWD INTIMATES/UNDERCURRENTS Year Ahead: By the Numbers

NPD figures reveal the need selling innerwear categories in the 10 months through Nov. 1 include: for innovation in innerwear. Q Pajama sets, which gained 7.7 per- By Karyn Monget cent in dollar sales. Q Bathrobes, jumping 5.4 percent. INNERWEAR NEEDS to get its Q Pajama tops, which posted a 4.2 groove back. percent increase. While high-powered names like In the same period, dollar sales of Victoria’s Secret have made lingerie bras declined 1.3 percent, shapewear an aspirational product with its sexy dipped 1.6 percent, and daywear slid Angels, it appears sex appeal and a 1.8 percent. palette of candy colors will not be Marshal Cohen, chief industry an- enough to carry the entire $11.05 bil- alyst at NPD, said a good dose of cre- lion innerwear industry in 2013. ativity will be needed to pique con- A lack of creativity and innova- sumers’ interest this year and keep tion in the intimate apparel market competition from other categories, — particularly the bra, panty and like activewear, at bay. shapewear segment — took its toll on “We’ve become so risk-averse the industry’s overall dollar and unit we’re almost boring the customer to sales from Jan. 1 through Nov. 1, 2012, death,” said Cohen. “Pajamas and according to the most recent report robes should never be the key driv- by consumer research firm The NPD ers in intimate apparel. The secret to Group Inc. success in intimates is growing across Through 2010, Lingerie business a wide sector of categories. Intimate continued to remain healthy in the apparel tends to be an emotional pur- midst of the 2008 recession and the chase, and without the creative spark postrecession doldrums, with the cat- in the product or its message, it’s dif- egory generating sales gains in the 2 ficult to get women — and men — to to 3 percent range. But total dollar think about it….Without a sexy [inti- sales have since slipped by 0.2 per- mate apparel] potion, other catego- cent to $11.05 billion in the 10 months ries such as athleticwear have been ended Nov. 1. Unit share in the same allowed to cut innerwear out of the period dropped 3.7 percent to 1.4 mil- picture….Athleticwear has been sell- lion, reported NPD. ing in place of pajama bottoms.” In an attempt to fuel business over Dollar sales of women’s pajama the past several seasons, intimate ap- bottoms fell 2.3 percent, while pajama parel vendors have been spicing up tops can attribute their 4.2 percent assortments of bras, underwear and gain largely to dual-purpose styles and daywear with vibrant fashion colors a “boyfriend shirt” trend, said Cohen. and prints. Their goal is to hold con- Regarding shapewear, a once- sumers’ attention and step up inter- booming category, Cohen observed, est in building lingerie wardrobes. “Women are not building shape- The idea mirrors recoloring strate- wear wardrobes anymore, they’re gies used by commodity-type under- just adding to it. Also, shapewear is wear labels, as well as the premium one of the few areas where prices and contemporary denim business, went down. There’s a lot of compe- which introduced fashion colors to tition out there.” woo consumers who already had clos- The average price of shapewear ets full of denim. fell 1.2 percent to $17.23. But the novelty of a new color or Robes and pajama sets have been print has short-term appeal and mak- strong categories because of “fluffier ers as well as merchants continue to new fabrics that make the merchan- look for the next big idea in intimates. dise exciting,” said Cohen. So far, the creative spark is not “Color is not enough, and women coming from the foundations field, are buying across a larger sector of where competition for market share categories. Without that emotional is fierce and practically every bra connection, we are not going to see brand has become a specialist of basic growth…The bra business is down shapewear in black, white and beige. partly because of [store] promotions, The action in 2012 was generated but it’s more about the absence of by the sleepwear category, an area new product and technology. We that’s been dormant for more than a didn’t have the Wonderbra, we had decade. A main reason has been the color. There’s been more innovation focus on innovative new fabrics such as in running shoes than there’s been MicroModal, jerseys and a host of Lycra in intimate apparel,” he said, “and spandex-blend cottons and microfibers the industry has allowed women to that have a soft, butterlike hand. focus more on their feet and shoes The numbers tell the story. Top- than their bras.”

Total Units Sold JAN 1.-NOV. 1, 2011 JAN 1.-NOV. 1, 2012 % CHANGE Bras (non-sport) 318,337 303,319 -4.72%

Panties 807,585 771,564 -4.46%

Shapewear 37,786 37,631 -0.41%

Pajama Tops 19,572 18,624 -4.84%

Pajama Bottoms 46,326 44,325 -4.32%

Pajama Sets 68,426 69,331 1.32% www.hanrousa.com

Bathrobes 12,057 12,039 -0.15%

Please visit us at CURVENV in Las Vegas 8/21–8/23 Daywear 31,163 32,778 5.18% and CURVENY in New York 8/5–8/7 TOTAL 1,454,166 1,400,117 -3.72% SOURCE: THE NPD GROUP INC./CONSUMER TRACKING SERVICE THE NPD GROUP INC./CONSUMER TRACKING SOURCE: R 4 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES/UNDERCURRENTS

1,470 yen, or about $9.50 to $16.50. The spokeswoman added that for Tat’s Nice spring, Tutuanna is adding neon colors to its traditional black printed tattoo designs. ANYONE WHO’S EVER toyed with the The tattoo trend has also helped idea of getting leg tattoos but just didn’t Tokone, a nascent legwear label, make its want to go under the needle now has a mark in local and international markets. relatively low-risk way to test the look: Before starting her own brand, Hatsuki tattoo-simulating hosiery. Sugai worked for a legwear company that Gaining momentum in Japan, where made socks and tights for brands like Issey women have long been on the cutting edge Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Anrealage. of legwear trends, these nude-colored She launched Tokone’s e-commerce site stockings are emblazoned with a wide in November. In just under two months, range of tattoo artwork — from a discreet her site has grown to attract 30,000 views a design at the ankle to a more dramatic day, half of them from outside Japan. statement like a dagger piercing the skin Each of Tokone’s designs is the result of or an image of the Virgin Mary covering a a collaborative effort between Sugai and good portion of the leg. an artist. The novelty appears to have crossed “Tights are very popular now, and there into mainstream fashion. “The trend was are many different styles available. But if at its peak last spring. Now it’s leveled off, the style of a particular artist doesn’t suit but they’re still selling well,” said a spokes- you, none [of her designs] will,” Sugai said. woman for Tutuanna. “Rather than a trend “So I wanted to broaden the potential of item, they’ve become a regular fashion item tights [with many artist options].” that people just want to have in their col- Tokone’s most popular items are tattoo lections, like everyday tights. So prints like designs by Makiko Sugawa and tattoo art- a flower or a message in English, which are ist Inkrat Tattoo, which go for 4,800 yen, or

easy to wear, are the most popular.” about $54, each. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY Tutuanna hosiery sells for about 840 to — KELLY WETHERILLE Tattoo simulating hosiery from Tutuanna, Tokone and Avantgarde. Subterranean Surprise

AVANTGARDE GIVES a new twist to the too-simulating hosiery. term “fashion underground.” “Right now, lightweight tights,

PHOTO BY YUKIE MIYAZAKI PHOTO BY The cutting-edge hosiery store is like 20-denier styles that are printed nestled in the fashion mecca of Tokyo’s with tattoo patterns or other designs, Harajuku, in a basement beneath a are popular,” said store manager spaghetti restaurant, on a busy strip Momoe Kanaya. packed with clothing stores. Avantgarde also sells a smattering Kazuhiro Watanabe launched of other legwear brands and an array Avantgarde as a legwear brand about of trendy shoes and accessories from two years ago, selling the tights and ho- names like Jeffrey Campbell, New Era siery online, and opened the store in and some emerging designers. October 2011. “We’re always adding new things… The boutique mainly sells its own we add about 10 [Avantgarde] styles per brand of boldly patterned hosiery month,” Kanaya said. “This year, we and tights featuring whimsical mo- plan to start making our own original tifs. Styles range from the cult favor- clothing, starting with T-shirts. We want ite Hello Kitty to astronauts, cam- to continue increasing the number of ouflage and brightly colored jewels. original items with our brand.” Avantgarde in Harajuku. There’s also a wide selection of tat- — K.W.

His ’n’ hers pantyhose Manning Up in Legwear from Emilio Cavallini. GETTING YOUR “mantyhose” or just to lounge around,” said ployees at the company, in- on appears to be the new man- Cavallini. “The interest is also cluding Cavallini’s brother, tra at Emilio Cavallini. growing in the U.S. market, and Francesco Cavallini, who is a Mantyhose — tights for men we’ve had so many requests for vice president. They are ren- that also have been dubbed mantyhose that we’ve added an dered in a seamless Santoni “brosiery” and “guylons” — has extra-large size for men who knit of cotton and nylon that become one of the fastest-growing are 6 feet tall and weigh up to provides greater elasticity, categories for the Florence, Italy- 198 pounds.” stretch and girth for enhanced based legwear specialist, with New styles and patterns such comfort across the top. The sales growing from 1 percent of as argyles, prints like barbed lightweight fabric also creates total online sales in 2011 to 30 per- wire, dots and crossword puz- greater breathability and helps cent in 2012 at emiliocavallini.com. zles are being added for imme- wick away perspiration, Lisa According to Lisa Cavallini, diate deliveries, and a range of Cavallini explained. daughter of the brand’s founder fashion colors is launching for The men’s tights retail for $40, and president of Mostlytights spring. The new looks will be and socks are $27. LLC, Cavallini’s North shown at the CurveNY trade “The front of the [men’s] American distributor, a capsule fair in New York, Feb. 24 to 26. tights has no opening, but no- line of unisex tights launched Also new to the men’s mix is a body is complaining about that,” in 2009. But it wasn’t until WWD line of long dress socks and nov- she added. wrote a story on the whimsical elty styles for everyday wear How does Cavallini know concept last March that demand bearing Cavallini’s signature that men are buying the tights began to grow for Cavallini’s patterns and prints. for themselves? tights for men, she said. “The men’s tights have be- “We see the men’s names “It’s definitely become a come so popular that we rein- [and billing information] from trend for men in Europe. It’s troduced men’s socks. There our Web site.…It’s not women fun for them to wear, and you are also disco-inspired tops we are shipping to,” said can see the color and pat- for men,” she said. “It’s some- Cavallini. “This has created a terns standing out [from] their thing we haven’t done since totally new consumer base for shoes...They wear the tights the Eighties.” us, and we expect it to grow. with shorts, under jeans that The men’s tights — which We definitely see it’s a trend have holes, under pants to don’t have a fly front — have for men.” stay warm in colder climates, been wear-tested by male em- — KARYN MONGET

6 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES/UNDERCURRENTS Triumph’s North American Push

TRIUMPH INTERNATIONAL, THE $2.1 billion innerwear powerhouse that owns several brands including Triumph, Sloggi, Valisère and Hom, is entering the U.S. and Mexican markets this year. To expand its presence in the Americas, where the Munich-based giant already operates in Canada, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Peru and Colombia, Triumph recently ac- quired controlling stakes in New York-based luxury lingerie retailer Journelle and Mexico’s Vicky Form, a specialty chain. “The U.S. is the world’s largest consumer market, and Mexico is Latin America’s second-largest con- sumer market,” said Carol Burns, Triumph’s general manager for the Anglo-American region. “In both Journelle will start countries, we have identified con- selling Triumph’s siderable demand for a fashionable, brands in New York. quality brand with European appeal like Triumph.” She said the company plans In Mexico, the company the danger of brand cannibalization.” freestanding Triumph stores will focus on the everyday Triumph also plans to open some freestanding stores across the U.S. in the second half segment of the market in Mexico, starting in 2014. In both markets, the firm of 2013, starting with a few doors through its joint venture will customize the assortment from the European range, in the Northeast. with Vicky Form, which and add some styles specially designed for American Triumph aims to become the preferred brand in will carry the Triumph and Sloggi brands in its stores. and Mexican customers. the U.S. “for the style-seeking, metropolitan con- “Entering the joint venture with Vicky Form is an The company will also focus on e-commerce, sumer, and we expect to become one of the top three important strategic regional move,” explained Joao launching a customized platform for the U.S., brands within five years,” said Burns. Silva, Triumph’s general manager for Latin America. while Mexico-based customers will be able to pur- She added that Journelle, which runs three “By providing immediate and direct consumer ac- chase Triumph and Sloggi’s items on the Vicky multibrand stores in New York, will begin selling cess, [Vicky Form] is a strong partner for introducing Form Web site. Triumph lines as well, to help boost brand exposure. the Triumph and Sloggi brands to Mexico without — ALESSANDRA TURRA

The result is a chic line of 10 bra For now, the brand is and panty sets built with European sold exclusively through Think Small fabrics such as Calais lace, Austrian its e-shop. Since the site tulle and Italian microfibers. Retail went live last October, the FRENCH WOMEN are proud of prices range from 17 euros for un- company has generated sales their small breasts, according to the dies to 60 euros for a bra, or $23 and around 40,000 euros, or $53,000, founders of Ysé, a new French inti- $79, respectively. Blocman said. mate apparel venture dedicated to The firm is targeting young, urban The Ysé fall 2013 collec- the modestly endowed. women who are tuned in to fashion, tion was unveiled at the Salon Clara Blocman, 24, and Blocman said. And with literary in- International de la Lingerie Bérengère Lehembre, 26, two gradu- clinations, too. Each style is named trade fair this month. ates of HEC business school, teamed after a book, such as “L’Amant” By 2016, the small-breast- up to create the new brand that ca- (“The Lover”) and “A l’Ombre des ed specialist plans to expand ters to women wearing sizes from jeunes filles en fleurs” distribution to department AA- to A-cups. (“Within a Budding Grove”). stores and expects to have “There is a need for small- Male purchasers are also freestanding Ysé boutiques breasted women, like ourselves, who being targeted. On Ysé’s in France and the interna- don’t want padded bras,” explained Web site, there is a nearly tional marketplace, be- Blocman. “Our collection has no foolproof guide for men so they ginning with Asia. pads, silicone or thick foam padding. can’t get sizing or style wrong Instead, we offer sizes and fits that when they buy a lingerie gift. — LAURE GUILBAULT enhance a small-breasted women’s In lieu of traditional advertis- natural silhouette, proving how fem- ing, the company is relying on inine they can be.” a viral campaign based on Blocman asserted that Ysé’s its 600 “ambassadors” pro- Sets from proposition is unique, not only for moting the brand on social Ysé’s fall its marketing but also for a special networks. In return, they 2013 technique with foam that is cut receive a flurry of discounts collection. and seamed. and offers.

and leggings selling from $12 to $50. naturally occurring thermal energy of Homegrown Specializing in upscale fashion hosiery for the human body into far-infrared rays, women and men, the company is using new believed to reduce the appearance of cel- types of yarn for its fall collections. Here lulite. A mineral added to the polymer ITALIAN HOSIERY maker Calze Ileana are four of its latest developments: in the early stages of yarn development SpA is banking on innovative yarns, lux- ■ Black Diamond, developed by fiber spe- functions as a mirror, reflecting the body’s Calze urious blends and its private labels to cialist Nilit, is suitable for allergy-prone heat, thus improving blood circulation Ileana stay competitive. sensitive skin as it has a shine similar and the skin’s appearance. SpA’s The firm, a family operation founded to Lurex but contains no metal. The pro- ■ Luxurious all-silk stockings, thigh- Black in 1982 and based in Castel Goffredo, near cess involves covering a nylon yarn with highs and men’s dress socks — an unusu- Diamond Mantova, began making hosiery for design- a shinier flat one. “These garments get a al move today, owing to the popularity of hosiery. er brands but for the past two seasons has glittering quality that is not as harsh as various blends. promoted its own lines, which now account metallic fibers. It’s more sophisticated,” ■ Stockings made with baby alpaca cash- for 5 percent of total production. said Michal Ron Gavish, global marketing mere blended with silk and merino wool. In the U.S., New York-based Anew director at Nilit, adding that the textured When the yarn is printed with different col- Legwear LLC distributes Calze Ileana’s yarn is also quite soft. ors, the resulting hosiery varies in pattern. ■ Lemon and Via Spiga brands, with tights Innergy, a microfiber that converts the — CYNTHIA MARTENS ERICKSEN KYLE TRIUMPH BY GRANET; XAVIER GEORGE CHINSEE; YSÉ BY CALZE PHOTO BY PERFECTLY COVERED. NO MATTER HOW LITTLE YOU WEAR.

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And it’s moving in countless directions for fall. Lingerie designers worked lace in a bevy of looks, from sweet and delicate to sexy and revealing.

Hanro

Blush WHITE

La Perla’s polyamide, polyester and elastane lace slip worn PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; over Cosabella’s polyamide and STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND elastane bra and briefs. LAUREN MONTGOMERY MODEL: ASH/DNA; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY OLAN MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI SALON, NYC; FASHION ASSISTANT: JAMIE ASSISTANT: FASHION NYC; SALON, MODEL: ASH/DNA; OLAN HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 9 WWD.COM

Hanky Panky Heirloom by Claire Pettibone

Fleur du Mal Naïs by Erickson Beamon’s silk lace slip worn over Calvin Klein’s nylon and elastane bra and underwear.

Elise Aucouturier

Elise Anderegg

Nevaeh

Kiki de Montparnasse 10 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES

Negative’s polyamide and elastane bra and briefs.

Garden

Pleasure State

Sets WHITE

Floral motifs are lingerie classics, and this season the looks are best in matching pairs.

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Stella Elle Macpherson McCartney Huit 8 PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND LAUREN MONTGOMERY BOBBI QUEEN AND LAUREN GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY

12 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD INTIMATES

Soaring in the design world for some time, Bird Watching avian motifs are now big news in intimates.

Rhonda Hanky Panky Shear

Honeydew

Cleo by Panache

Augden’s silk bralette and pants.

Natori

Yves Delorme PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN AND LAUREN MONTGOMERY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY MODEL ASH/DNA; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY OLAN MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI SALON; FASHION ASSISTANT: JAMIE WHITE ASSISTANT: FASHION SALON; MODEL ASH/DNA;OLAN HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MONTGOMERY USING BOBBI BROWN COSMETICS FOR VARTALI The Secret is Out

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SECTION II WWD.COM WWDGoing INTIMATES Graphic Legwear is taking a cue from Op Art for fall.

Etiquette

Kensie

Betsey ResultWear’s nylon Johnson and spandex bralette Soxland and briefs with International Kensie’s cotton, polyester and spandex socks.

Plush K. Bell HITE

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SECTION II WWD.COM WWDFighting INTIMATES Fraud

Italian hosiery companies are vigorously He noted that the current rules leads to administrative and red, which leads to a list of banned substances sanctions and penalties for thorough physical examina- battling bogus labeling, which has in the EU textile industry unfair business practices, tion of the products. financial as well as health implications. is limited, and a more com- punishable in Italy by fines Comito said the EU is prehensive list would better from 5,000 to 500,000 euros, working to guarantee a By Cynthia Martens protect consumers. or about $6,660 to $666,000 at consistent level of control Some examples of chemi- current exchange. throughout its territory. The STRUGGLING UNDER THE The Health and Textile cals the EU does not allow on “All of this works if on the Italian Customs Agency, weight of foreign competi- Association had already been textiles include Azo dyes that other side I have a company meanwhile, is striving to tion and the high cost of studying the matter in its lab- can release aromatic amine or an entrepreneur,” said raise awareness among con- raw materials, the Italian oratories, having determined groups that may be carcino- Galli. “But if on the other side sumers of the risks posed hosiery industry is stand- that 7 to 8 percent of derma- genic, and dyes that are prov- I have a character who im- by mislabeled and coun- ing pat. Companies located tological diseases in Italy en carcinogens or allergens. ports merchandise from un- terfeit products, through a near Lombard cities Brescia stem from use of imported The EU has also banned plas- likely countries, whose whole Web portal called Falsobook and Mantova are banding to- textiles and footwear. “Based ticizers, heavy metal com- business [is in a closet] with (“Fakebook”), which contains gether to fight what they see on our tests, the mislabeled pounds and some detergents a fax, phone and computer, posts about how to recognize as the biggest problem among products were all imported and preservatives. and who disappears when at- fake merchandise. many: fraudulent labels. from outside the European Most frequently, problem tacked, only to pop up some- “People often think coun- “We are talking about a Union,” said the association’s where else — it’s clear that terfeiting is a minor crime,” problem that has two parts,” director Mauro Rossetti. this is a problem.” she said. “But we’ve seen that said Davide Bonassi, secre- While he did not have a there are health and safety tary general of Associazione precise breakdown of risks, even in the textile sec- Distretto Calze e Intimo, or such countries, he said tor, with carcinogenic sub- A.Di.Ci, an association of the Far East was a stances or items that cause hosiery and intimates com- main source. allergic reactions.” panies that includes Calze Attorney Galli added, “It Ileana, Calzificio Nuova 40% can seem like a paradox, Virgiliana, Charme Legwear Not Telling but right now a country and Gizeta Calze, among 30% like Italy is much more many others. “On one This and That sensitive to these issues, hand, false declarations probably also because it’s of fiber content create un- 20% a manufacturing country, fair competition and are Fiction and as [such] it suffers fraudulent to clients. On more heavily from these another hand, there’s the 10% phenomena compared to presence of carcinogenic Who knows? other countries.” or irritating dyes.” He suggested that the EU A third factor is the “extend control measures denier: some companies also to merchandise in tran- are declaring a high de- sit,” to prevent goods from nier level and using a The enforcement of being falsely declared miss- lower one, thereby sav- existing EU-wide rules ing or stolen en route to ing on raw materials and poses another dilemma, as countries outside Europe, cutting costs, Bonassi the strictness of customs and thereby entering the explained. The trickery agents at EU borders var- market without a trace. gives competitors a price ies by country, which can A.Di.Ci supports advantage when selling lead to problems of “traffic the Health and Textile to retailers. “Bad money deviation,” when products Association’s proposal for an drives out good. Small enter one country with the Italian national observatory: producers aren’t able to goal of reaching another: a sanitary surveillance and bring home orders,” he once on EU territory, general reference point for said. “There’s nothing to goods are no longer subject the textile, clothing, leather be done: you don’t bring to border controls. and footwear industries. orders home, and then To fight fraud, the The association has invited you can’t pay salaries.” Italian Customs Agency cre- the Ministries of Health and He added that in the chemicals cause rashes ated FALSTAFF, or Fully Economic Development, last few months alone, and allergic reactions, he Automated Logical System as well as the Chamber of about 50 small, special- said, although in rare cases Against Forgery Fraud, a Commerce system, to take ized laboratories in the substances are known to multimedia database that al- part. Stated goals include Lombardy had shut down. cause cancer. lows firms to provide detailed the promotion of European “Our goal is to make re- Cesare Galli, an intellec- information about their prod- REACH regulations — tailers assume some tual property lawyer whose ucts so customs agents can Registration, Evaluation, responsibility. Buyers clients have included fash- better detect counterfeit Authorization and Restriction cannot [ignore what’s hap- ion companies, said Italy and items and zero in on where of Chemical substances — pening] and only look at the EU have a variety of laws they are most likely to ap- within and outside EU bor- the price.” in place to fight counterfeit pear. The Italian Customs ders, and promoting “reci- To illustrate the prob- products and labels. Agency’s technological and procity between the states of lem, A.Di.Ci members pur- “In the most serious antifraud departments jointly the provisions on the safety chased a random sampling cases, it’s a crime subject to run FALSTAFF. and ecology of the articles.” of hosiery from local super- heavy sanctions, in the case A single company can have Bonassi also spoke of A.Di. markets and submitted the of so-called ‘fraud in com- numerous product forms, and Ci’s desire to create a dis- selection for fiber testing at merce,’ which is to say that these help customs agents trict research center where the Associazione Tessile e through a false label you “analyze the risk” posed by Italian artisans can pool their Salute di Biella, or Health convince consumers to buy a specific import, said Maria years of accumulated know- and Textile Association, an something they otherwise Laura Comito, an innovation how and support each other. independent group dedi- wouldn’t buy,” he explained, and central technology officer “The area needs to be a cated to consumer safety and noting in Italy the penalty at ICA. The agency assigns team, to unite with a com- transparency in the textile in- was a hefty fine and up to four risk levels to merchan- mon purpose,” he noted. dustry. The association found two years in prison. dise: green, which means no When businesses shut down that “in some cases, the fibers Further, Galli said the further inspection is needed; or move, he said, the district on the labels did not corre- EU set up guidelines in 1996 yellow, which requires that loses its creative sparkle, spond [to actual fiber content] that required fiber percent- documentation be reexam- and promoting hosiery that or were even missing entire- ages to be listed in detail on ined; orange, which requires is Made in Italy becomes that much harder. ly,” said Bonassi. JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY labels, and violating these scanning the merchandise, LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235 NEW YORK 212.564.4710 KBELLSOCKS.COM

A DIVISION OF RENFRO CORPORATION 18 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 SECTION II

WWD INTIMATES Eco-friendly fibers are gaining traction in intimates, The Long Green Line but still face challenges. By Emily Backus

THERE’S GOOD NEWS for eco-friendly when first introduced, but now can be a intimates: A range of new, sustainable viable fabric for lingerie. fibers, yarns and textiles are now avail- At a time when companies continue able for bras, underwear, camis, sleep- belt-tightening, apparel and textile ex- wear and at-homewear. ecutives acknowledge a major obstacle The bad news is that cost-cutting in producing eco-friendly intimates is measures and a lack of environmental its higher cost. responsibility among companies is stall- Organic cotton sells at roughly dou- ing the eco-friendly process in the in- ble the price of conventional cotton, ac- nerwear world, according to European cording to United States Department of consultants and manufacturers. Agriculture and European Index Mundi Allana McAspurn, chief executive offi- data. Organic cotton prices ranged from cer of London-based eco-fashion consul- $1.40 to $1.90 per pound in the 2011-12 tancy Made-By, describes lingerie as “one marketing year, according to the USDA’s of the last bastions” of apparel where en- most recent “Annual Organic Cotton vironmentalism has yet to take hold. Market Summary,” issued in August. “A lot of research and development Conventional cotton prices hovered has been done for intimates, but it between $1 and $1.14 per pound from hasn’t gone into production because big August 2011 to April 2012, and crept brands don’t want to take it forward,” downward to roughly 71 cents in early stated McAspurn, who works with fash- January, reported the Index Mundi. ion and textile brands to improve sus- Giusy Bettoni, director at the tainability across the supply chain. Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable One problem is that lingerie is Synergy, or CLASS, library of eco-sus- often assembled from multiple compo- tainable textiles in Milan, said a num- nents, complicating its supply chain. ber of new, innovative options for inti- Fabrics made with NewLife recycled polyester fiber. Moreover, materials often require spe- mates were introduced in 2012. cial traits related to aesthetics or com- “There are new textiles not only on with a rougher finish that does not kill launched a collection of fabrics called fort, explained McAspurn. the vanguard that are truly beautiful,” silkworms. She pulled out soft, cotton- NewLife Light. There can be a solution. said Bettoni, as she fanned out several like swatches made from bamboo by The NewLife initiative is a plat- For example, McAspurn cited Modal samples on a table. Monocel, and a body suit for infants with form for making recycled polyester and Tencel produced by Lenzing as On display was a silky microfiber a silklike hand made of crustacean shell developed by the yarn division of the well as organic hemp, silk and cotton stretch jersey made of postconsum- waste by Crabyon. Soft and pliable milk Miroglio Group, which was acquired in as adequately eco-friendly choices. er plastic waste by NewLife. Bettoni fiber-blend swatches by Euromaglia 2012 by Italy-based Sinterama Group. Another option is recycled polyester, showed Swiss maker Seidentraum’s looked lounge and legwear ready. Since September, NewLife also has which she described as “looking awful” pearly organic silk and a “peace silk” In September, Italy’s Saluzzo Yarns won two environmental awards and has WWD.COM

appeared on Hollywood red carpets pulp producers and manufacturing fa- through the Green Carpet Challenge, cilities in China that use certification championed by Livia Firth. programs such as Oeko-Tex 100 and “It’s a line of special fabrics that are Ecocert. Monocel, however, currently very light, intended mainly for linge- costs 30 percent more than organic rie and sportswear underlining,” ex- cotton and orders from large brands plained Stefano Cochis, business unit may have to be capped since only one director of Saluzzo Yarns. production plant is making the fiber, Cochis said that since its launch, he noted. NewLife has grown to about 20 percent Nånkåtån singled out two fabrics for of the company’s yarn business, or $5.3 intimates — luxurious 228 Ming and 235 million out of $26.5 million in volume Rome fabrics, both 100 percent Monocel. estimated for 2012. The wholesale cost is $7.61 and $11.62 He added, “Within two years, I ex- per square meter, or $6.39 and $9.76 per pect lingerie to be one of our main sec- square yard. Lighterweight 227 Chen jer- tors....We’re able to guarantee the same sey of 100 percent Monocel wholesales quality as virgin polyester from all for $4.63 per square meter, or $3.89 per points of view, but at an additional 15 square yard. to 20 percent cost. He would not give a Meanwhile, production is revving up wholesale price for NewLife products. for a less expensive cotton substitute in Despite higher costs and pricing, North America. makers said environmental innovation Canadian-based Crailar is energizing the marketplace. Technologies — formerly Naturally “There’s a lot of interest, even if the Advanced Technologies — announced price puts some brakes on the [busi- the opening in late December of its ness] volume,” commented Mauro first commercial production plant in Borgini, head of Borgini Jersey in South Carolina that produces Crailar Como, Italy. Flax fiber. Borgini Jersey makes a silky micro- Crailar Flax is made from flax and fiber stretch jersey that is 14 percent other fibers including hemp, in a pro- elastane and 86 percent NewLife fiber. cess that’s similar to linen. Flax is a Borgini reckons the added cost of fast-growing rotational crop that re- NewLife translates to a 5 to 6 percent quires minimal chemicals and water price increase in finished garments. compared to cotton production. The Enrico Serafini, export commercial company described it as an all-natural, director at Italian textile maker Piave enzymatic process, developed by the Maitex, said intimates account for 60 Canadian National Research Council. percent of the company’s $26.5 million It’s as soft and durable as cotton, but re- business, which currently offers prod- quires less dye and causes less shrink- ucts in five NewLife blends. age, said Crailar Technologies spokes- “We had been searching for eco- man Ryan Leverenz. “Crailar can also sustainable yarns for a long time,” be used on existing cotton spinning said Serafini. machines,” he said, noting that the com- Back at the CLASS library, Bettoni pany has a partnership with underwear showed lightweight fabrics of Monocel, giant Hanesbrands Inc. a yarn made from bamboo by Oslo- Crailar Technologies aims to pro- based, start-up company Nånkåtån. duce 150,000 pounds of fiber per week The company name is a play on the this month, and increase production to Norwegian word for “noncotton.” more than 1 million pounds per week by The company claims that Monocel is the end of 2013. The flax fiber currently softer, stronger, longer lasting and easi- wholesales for about $1.25 per pound. er to clean than cotton, as well as being Despite high-tech advances in sus- antistatic, highly absorbent and easily tainability, McAspurn said buyers blended with other fibers. should beware of enticing new materi- “I like to call bamboo God’s als that purport to be eco-friendly. She gift to the planet,” quipped Jonny advises companies to shop around, get Kristiansen, ceo of Nånkåtån. a second opinion and check certifica- The specific bamboo used for tions before investing in new programs. Monocel nourishes soil, needs no pes- She warned that some earth-friendly ticides or fertilizers, doesn’t compete raw materials may require toxic chemi- with food crops and is turned into us- cal processing, and even blending fi- able fiber through an eco-friendly bers for stretch or special effects can closed-loop process that removes the reduce their potential for recycling. greenhouse gas carbon dioxide, ex- While milk fibers may sound environ- plained Kristiansen. mentally correct, she questions the Nånkåtån is completing a life-cycle ecological wisdom of apparel made of analysis and maintains a fully trace- milk by-products: “Should we be using able supply chain of certified farmers, a food to make intimate apparel?”

Rolls of NewLife recycled fiber. 20 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 SECTION II TheWWD INTIMATES World Is No

GOING GLOBAL IS the fastest way to grow business to market and advertise a brand if consumers “The entire Asian market is underpenetrat- and build brand equity for innerwear brands in a in the target country are familiar with ed, but we have good brand equity,” he shrinking U.S. market. the aspirational message of its name, said. “One area in which we haven’t A number of major brands are chasing business and brand image is a critical fac- yet made inroads is Mainland opportunities around the world in the wake of a re- tor. A key example is Calvin China, and we are looking at cession and a lingering sour economy. Whether it’s a Klein Underwear, with its options. We’ve done a lot of bid to garner new consumers in emerging nations or hip, sexy image that has exploratory research, but it’s to bolster brand recognition and incremental growth fairly universal appeal. complex — do we go in with in mature markets, more companies are competing for Helen McCluskey, chief a partner? Should we do in- market share overseas. The strategy can be attributed executive officer of The Innerwear makers store shops? Maidenform’s mainly to retail consolidation and the downsizing of Warnaco Group, said circumnavigate the growth is really increasing lingerie collections to key item assortments at stores, she believes Calvin globe to find new on investment in as well as consumers who remain cautious with ap- Klein Underwear these coun- parel purchases. “has growth potential markets and growth. Key territories in which vendors are expanding everywhere.” Latin By Karyn Monget their global presence include China, Korea, Thailand, America is among the Vietnam, India, Australia, Chile, Brazil, Peru, Mexico, brand’s most recent Canada, Germany, Turkey, the Gulf Region (including initiatives. Dubai and the United Arab Emirates), Russia and a “We entered Chile host of breakaway republics from the former Soviet and Peru at the end of Union, such as Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. Executives say there’s even room for growth in cash- strapped countries like Greece, Spain, Italy and Ireland that are struggling with inflation and the euro zone crisis. The reasoning is that people still need to buy underwear and basic commodities, and they are also willing to spend on a special item that’s affordable, offers intrinsic value and is regarded as 2011 and had a an emotional buy. good start there and But it takes a lot of time, patience, research and have good distribution with Ripley depart- creativity to enter foreign markets and build a brand ment stores…We expect business in Latin America to franchise. It also takes a substantial investment that double over the next five years. I think [Calvin Klein could range from the mid-six-figures to $1 million or Underwear and Jeans’] business can definitely double more to cover additional costs for travel, sales, market- in Brazil and in China,” said McCluskey. “We’re just ing, of fices, showrooms and trade fairs, shipping, tech- getting started in India, Thailand and Vietnam.” tries with marketing, people and systems.” nology, partnerships and licensing deals, and a host of The $2.21 billion Warnaco expanded distribution Reznik added that the company is preparing to legal and regional government fees. of its international Calvin Klein products primar- enter other markets as well, but he was not ready to Challenges include: ily through its direct-to-consumer business, which talk about those. Q Brand recognition. includes “a couple of hundred directly operated and At Kenosha, Wisc.-based Jockey International, Tim Q Positioning a brand and developing a marketing third-party” Calvin Klein jeans and underwear shops Wheeler, president of Jockey’s global division and a platform. in China. Net revenues in the segment increased to former director of VF Corp.’s international jeans busi- Q Addressing cultural differences. $755.3 million in fiscal 2011, from $669.8 million in fis- ness, said Jockey pioneered the art of global business Q Developing a strong relationship with distributors, cal 2010 and $580.2 million in fiscal 2009. when it inked its first license outside the U.S. in 1936. agents and retail partners. (The fiscal 2012 annual report will be released Jockey, which is sold in more than 120 countries, runs Besides partnerships with traditional brick-and- in February.) an international licensing business model worldwide mortar retail franchises, executives say, breaking into an “We expect all direct-to-consumer [Calvin Klein with the exception of its European operation, which is emerging market increasingly demands an e-shop or a jeans and underwear] revenues to grow to 30 to 40 per- based in Germany and wholly owned by Jockey. Web presence in a regional language. It’s also far easier cent of total Warnaco revenues over the next five years,” “Jockey is sold just about everywhere in the world, stated McCluskey. and we’re heavily represented in Asia and South Maurice Reznik, ceo of Maidenform America,” Wheeler said. “If we find the right partner, Brands Inc., a $589 million bra and shape- we sign a long-term arrangement so they invest heav- wear specialist, said the Maidenform brand ily. We got into India in 1995, and our partner there is is sold in 62 countries and the company also our partner in the Philippines. India is still one of plans to further expand its global footprint the fastest-growing markets today.” this year. The business model for Jockey’s international oper- “The Americas are a big part of our ation reflects the company’s core values of family and growth strategy. Canada is becoming in- brand loyalty, and it has helped solidify partnerships, creasingly important as retailers like said Wheeler. Target expand there,” Reznik said. “The “Our big challenge is to get the right [sales or distri- Maidenform brand is well-known in Canada bution] partner who handles a specific market. Most of and in Mexico, which is very important our business is done with local partner experts....We’re to Maidenform and our licensed Donna actually growing in Ireland, Greece and Spain. There’s Karan Intimates business, mostly DKNY a very big independent Jockey business in Ireland Underwear. The strategy is to leverage the that’s been run by three generations of the same Maidenform brand and DKNY together. family-operated distributors and agents. With what’s “An interesting aspect of our international happened with the European [monetary] crisis, we’ve business is the ability of the DKNY brand to had to partner even closer with them, and it’s been a penetrate a market, and then we piggyback way to secure our business as well as theirs...Another the Maidenform brand into that market like example is Spain, where our business is run by a guy we did in Spain and France,” explained who works directly at El Corte Inglés [department Reznik, noting that the DKI unit accounts for stores], and even though it’s tough in Greece, our dis- 27 percent of total international business. He tributor also serves as president of the International singled out Germany as a country in which Apparel Federation, one of the few people hanging in efforts are being “intensified” this year. there. Jockey is selling well in those countries because LA LAME, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics Reznik also cited the Latin American mar- people still need underwear and need to dress.” ket, including Chile and Mexico, as key. Regarding China, Wheeler noted that Jockey is in “Maidenform has been in the Latin the early stages of developing a retail partner busi- American market for some time, and penetra- ness model after converting its operation into a full STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS tion is high. We have brand equity and design licensee in 2011. POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL intent for the brand because Maidenform is “Our projections for China are very strong,” he said. GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS seen as a fashion brand that resonates with Garry Hogarth, ceo of London-based Agent NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES fashion-loving Latin customers.” Provocateur, said a two-pronged strategy is boost- Reznik noted that the company’s Asia strat- ing its global presence through the Internet and tra- egy is to grow the brand’s presence where it ditional brick-and-mortar stores. The brand is cur- is already known and to position it as a better rently sold in 73 freestanding shops and franchises brand in Hong Kong, Singapore and Thailand. in 24 countries, and there are plans to add 15 more LA LAME, Inc. WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 21 WWD.COM

Agent Provocateur will also be offering a new diffu- Lewis and House of Fraser, as well the De Bijenkorf sion label exclusively to global wholesale accounts for and Breuninger department stores in the Netherlands next fall called l’Agent by Agent Provocateur. and Germany. There will also be a launch in Mexico at

“It will be the first wholesale range sold to retailers El Palacio de Hierro this spring. To extend its reach in worldwide. It’s a collaboration we’ve done with Penèlope Canada, a Wacoal Canada subsidiary was created in 2012. Cruz, her sister Mónica Cruz, and Agent Provocateur cre- Laurie Ann Goldman, ceo of Atlanta-based Spanx, ative director Sarah Shotton,” said Hogarth. said the company is “looking to have in-store shops ot Flat Bob Vitale, president of Wacoal America, the with complete Spanx collections in different markets.” U.S. unit of the $2.02 billion innerwear giant Wacoal “We opened shops in department stores Hyundai ·· Holdings in Kyoto, Japan, said 2013 is ripe for interna- in Korea and KaDeWe in Berlin at the end of 2012, boutiques this year in three new markets: Mexico, tional expansion. and we’re now sold in these cute vending machines Australia and Mainland China. “We have very high market share in the U.S. and at Lane Crawford [Hong Kong]. We’re also looking “Last year, we launched Russian- and Korean- have always been interested in expansion into other at China — one of the things we’re working on with language [e-commerce] Web sites, said Hogarth, not- countries. It’s a need of our own. The intimate ap- Neiman Marcus,” said Goldman. ing that the company is exploring pos- parel business in department stores is not growing in In the U.K., Spanx is sold at Harrods and sibilities for a Chinese-language the U.S., so I’m sure everyone is looking to see where Selfridges, and the company plans to enter the Italian site. He added that interna- they can get their business going. But the chal- market in February at La Rinascente and Excelsior tional online sales have lenge is, how do you do it profitably?” he said. Milano stores, which will feature the brand’s first increased “40 percent While Wacoal operates its business “Tower of Power” shapewear and legwear display in in one year and like- through worldwide subsidiaries such as Europe. Plans are also in the works to open a ware- to-like store sales Wacoal U.K. and Wacoal China, Vitale house in Europe and several “Spanx.com sites in have increased said he sees opportunities to grow a Europe,” she said. 25 percent.” The intimate young, contemporary brand called b. Richard Adjmi, ceo of Age Group, maker of Flora Tempted with Wacoal subsidiaries Nikrooz sleepwear, described business in the Mideast apparel business in in Asia. as “very robust.” “There’s a big opportunity for b. “Over the past year, we’ve had 10 to 15 percent in- department stores is Tempted because it’s the right type cremental growth in Dubai, Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, of product for the Asian market Kuwait, Egypt and the United Arab Emirates,” said not growing in the U.S. with smaller [bra] cup sizes,” said Adjmi. “I believe it’s because the Flora Nikrooz prod- Vitale. The brand is currently sold uct is highly embellished and tastefully sexy without — BOB VITALE, in Japan, Hong Kong, Malaysia and being overtly sexy, and they like that...And ‘Made in WACOAL AMERICA the Philippines, as well as on the the U.S.A.,’ which we do, holds a certain cachet of Wacoal.jp site. value in the Mideast, while ‘Made in China’ does not.” In other moves, Wacoal is Selling product via the Internet is a big part of the increasing distribution in the global strategy at Miami-based Cosabella, said Guido U.K. with new accounts at John Campello, vice president of marketing, innovation and sales. “We’ll be launching on the Neiman Marcus China and Japan e-com site in February for spring and on the Chinese site Shangpin.com for holiday 2013,” said Campello. “If the dot- com markets can open up business in China, ·· there will be no boundaries.” COLIN TIERNEY BY JOHN AQUINO; PHOTO ILLUSTRATION PHOTO BY

Over Sixty Years Serving the Design Community [Est. 1949] Left: Maggie Barela, Sales Agent; Make-up by Kristy Goslin; CANVAS boutique Tawarayama. & gallery; Photo by Tadashi Right and top: Forbes, Jacqueline ‘Jac’ Arlington Forbes, Owners; Jac and Arlington shirts by CANVAS . MALIBU.

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Victoria’s Secret holds the ticket to big bucks. By Julia Neel

TALK ABOUT a stairway to heaven. increases a model’s earning poten- Of the 10 women named to Forbes’ tial due to their visibility around the 2012 list of the highest-earning mod- world,” said Richard Habberley at els, six are or have been Victoria’s DNA Model Management, which rep- Secret Angels, the elite group of mod- resents Ambrosio, Kroes and Lindsay els selected not only for their consid- Ellingson, another VS Angel. “It erable physical beauty but also for changes the girls’ careers completely.” their personalities — and their ability Carole White, founder of Premier to sell underwear and swimwear to Model Management in London, said, women across the globe. “It was the most massive thing that At the top of the earnings heap is could have happened to Miranda Kerr. former Angel Gisele Bündchen, who, It made her name. Who had heard of with contracts for Pantene, Esprit and her before Victoria’s Secret? They are Versace, earned an estimated $45 mil- great at taking a girl — a good-looking lion between May 2011 and May 2012. model, but a catalogue model — and She was joined by these high-pro- launching her into the stratosphere. file Angels: It’s like a modeling medal.” Q Adriana Lima scored fourth place But Habberley noted that selling bras with $7.3 million. and undies can be a tricky business. Q Doutzen Kroes claimed the fifth “The merchants drive the decisions spot with $6.9 million. on the Angels. They [Victoria’s Secret] Q Alessandra Ambrosio took the sixth try the girls out, and certain girls sell slot with $6.6 million. product. They’re women that appeal Q Miranda Kerr garnered seventh to other women. And they’re special place with $4 million. because they never appear in men’s Q Candice Swanepoel came in 10th magazines. Once you start to do that, with $3.1 million. they become threatening [to potential “Becoming an Angel significantly female customers],” said Habberley.

Adriana Lima

Alessandra Ambrosio DustWWD.COM

Being an Angel opens the gates toward the Angels is due in part to of opportunity, too. Angels are ex- British stylist Katie Grand, who met pected to appear in the annual Brazilian Angels Ambrosio and Izabel Victoria’s Secret fashion extrava- Goulart at Fashion Rocks in Rio in ganza in New York, which in 2012 November 2009. was broadcast on CBS to more than “Being Brazilian, they have that nine million people. They are also sort of jaw-dropping immediate required to appear in ad campaigns, beauty where you just sigh and think, make regular TV and in-store ap- ‘Wouldn’t life be perfect if I woke up pearances, and pose for Christmas, looking like that?’” quipped Grand. Valentine’s Day and swimwear cata- “I then started working with James logues. The exposure often draws Lima and Prada on a Prada archive lucrative contracts for film and TV film called ‘The Love Thing,’ and — cases in point, former Angels chose to cast Alessandra in that,” Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks and Rosie mused Grand. “Miuccia, I think, liked Huntington-Whiteley. the idea of her being [different from] “They put across their personal- the usual ‘Prada girl’ and cast her, ity. They’re very visible,” said Viva along with Miranda and Doutzen, in London founder Natalie Hand. her 2010 winter show. “Victoria’s Secret is very proactive “It was the same season I cast sev- in media training for the girls, and I eral Angels in Giles [Deacon’s] show have seen girls transformed through and then also in the Vuitton ‘Bardot’ the process. There is a trend for season. Marc [Jacobs] sent me a text at girls with character and personal- the beginning of the year, saying, ‘I’m ity now. Over the last three to four into tits,’ to which I replied, ‘Oh yeah, years, clients really want to have VS me too,’ as I’d been doing all this work girls in their campaigns. Ten years with Alessandra and the other girls. I ago, it was seen as just so American, love how these girls turn up and are but now internationally, it’s a very perfection.…They are kind of other- powerful campaign.” worldly, like a Stepford Wife, like be- This recent sea change in attitude ings from another planet. So perfect.”

Candice Doutzen Kroes Swanepoel PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY

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