Dark Stars PARIS — Hedi Slimane Is Bringing the Energy of Rock ’N’ Roll — Along with Dashes of Art Deco and Parisian flair — to His Makeover at Saint Laurent
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AND WWD INTIMATES LEGWEAR KATE’S TURN BY THE NUMBERS, NEW MARKETS, TRENDS AND MORE. SECTION II SAM EDELMAN TAPS KATE UPTON AS ITS FACE. PAGE 3 ACCESSORIES PRE-FALL WWD 2013 MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 BUILDING ON ITS ROOTS Fendi to Help Restore Key Roman Fountains “We are proud of being tied to By MILES SOCHA the city, but I believe not everyone knows, and this is a great occasion to PARIS — Lending a hand to its do something for the city that hosts mythic hometown — and enrich- us,” Beccari said. “Rome is a home ing its brand narrative in the pro- of Made in Italy. There’s an incred- cess — Fendi is embarking on a ible savoir faire, but as well it’s a four-year effort to restore some source of inspiration for many.” of Rome’s crumbling fountains, In an exclusive interview, the beginning with the Trevi, WWD first since he assumed the helm of has learned. Fendi in February 2012, Beccari Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Fendi, said the company would be the Fendi chief executive Pietro sole sponsor of the Trevi refur- Beccari and Rome’s mayor, Gianni bishment, with work expected to Alemanno, are slated to host a commence this spring. The brand press conference in the Italian city plans to fund restoration of four today to unveil the project. other fountains, which have yet to Elements include a photo book be named. devoted to Rome’s celebrated The executive also lifted the and hidden fountains, lensed by veil on development plans for the Lagerfeld and due out in the sec- luxury firm, which is part of lux- ond half of the year. The climax ury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy could be a fashion show with Trevi Louis Vuitton. It hinges on animat- as its backdrop in 2015, when Fendi ing Fendi’s iconic leather goods, will mark its 90th anniversary. SEE PAGE 12 Watch Sales Clock Growth Compagnie Financière Richemont, By HAIG SIMONIAN the luxury goods powerhouse be- hind most SIHH exhibitors, re- GENEVA — After record sales and leased figures on the opening day, earnings last year, Switzerland’s which revealed that Asian growth leading watchmakers are entering had slowed in the final quarter of 2013 with broad optimism — while last year. While group revenues acknowledging economic wobbles climbed 9 percent, revenues in in China could yet spoil their party. Asia-Pacific, now the group’s single Gathered for the Salon biggest region, remained flat when International de la Haute adjusted for currencies. Horlogerie — one of the watch in- Richemont’s results put a dustry’s two annual showcases — 16 damper on what should have top brands toasted a bumper 2012 been a celebration. Swiss watch thanks to booming sales in Asia, a exports for the first 11 months of strongly reviving U.S. and signs of 2012 — the only industry-wide fig- recovery in even troubled Europe. ures available — jumped almost But concerns about China 13 percent to nearly 20 billion cast a shadow, particularly after SEE PAGE 4 Dark Stars PARIS — Hedi Slimane is bringing the energy of rock ’n’ roll — along with dashes of Art Deco and Parisian flair — to his makeover at Saint Laurent. Consider his expansive collection of accessories for pre-fall. Here, his Lulu bag in shaggy shearling seems fit for a modern-day Janis Joplin, while the high-heeled patent leather Chelsea bootie brings to mind a young Debbie Harry. Punkish-luxe jewelry ranges from a geometric bangle in vermeil inset with onyx-colored resin to a leather cuff with metal studs. For more on pre-fall accessories, see pages 6 to 8. PHOTO BY XAVIER GRANET; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER 2 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 28, 2013 WWD.COM Furla’s International Road to Expansion THE BRIEFING BOX tries with 319 stores, of which 145 pop-up store entirely dedicated to By LUISA ZARGANI are directly operated. The brand the colorful Candy bag in PVC will is also carried in 1,290 multibrand open in the former Milan boutique IN TODAY’S WWD MILAN — This year will mark a and department stores. and the company is planning to new phase for Furla, leveraging “One of the strengths and pil- unveil a hand-painted version in an 18 percent increase in rev- lars of Furla is that our flagships March.) Furla is also remodeling enues in 2012, lifted by an expan- are located in the top streets the Paris store. The new concept is sion in the Asia-Pacific region, a of all the major capitals of the warmer with brass — rather than 93 percent increase in travel re- world, next to fashion designer steel — elements and reflections of tail sales and the development of brands,” said Furlanetto, point- the 18th-century villa that houses its own online store. ing to units on London’s Regent the brand’s Bologna headquarters, “We are entering a differ- Street as well as Paris’ Champs- said Furlanetto. ent, more accelerated stage of Elysées, Rome’s Via Condotti and The Asia-Pacific area accounts development — we had been New York’s Madison Avenue. for 13 percent of Furla sales. rowing and now we are sailing,” “We started investing in Japan in European, Middle Eastern and GRAVES Giovanna Furlanetto, chairman 1990 and now it’s become our first African markets — excluding Italy, Gela Nash-Taylor and of the accessories firm, said in market, which is a matter of pride with a 24 percent share — represent AMY Pamela Skaist-Levy with BY 27 percent of revenues. Furlanetto Rachel Zoe in Ferragamo. Furla’s new concept said the company is now focused PHOTO features brass on further building the U.S. region, elements. which accounts for 9 percent of Fendi is embarking on a four-year effort to restore some of sales. The brand recently made a Rome’s crumbling fountains, beginning with the Trevix. PAGE 1 change in U.S. management replac- ing Tommaso Bruso, who had been Switzerland’s leading watchmakers are entering 2013 with chief executive officer of Furla USA, broad optimism — while acknowledging economic wobbles in Inc., for the past five years, with China could yet spoil their party. PAGE 1 James Mullaney, chief financial of- fier of Schifter + Partners. Sam Edelman has tapped Kate Upton for its new “There is so much growth digital and print advertising campaign that will roll out potential in the U.S.,” said starting Monday and run for six months. PAGE 3 Furlanetto, highlighting the brand’s successful collections for NuOrder, the online and mobile marketplace linking retailers Saks Fifth Avenue, a 35 percent and fashion wholesalers, has four new investors. PAGE 9 an exclusive interview. “We have and satisfaction for us, as it’s such a jump in sales at Bloomingdale’s been investing in the company sophisticated and demanding mar- and gains at Nordstrom. The Sidaction Gala at the tail end of couture week in Paris is The new concept allows more patiently, quietly and with a long- ket,” she added. Japan accounted a chance for fashion folk to let their hair down. PAGE 10 term view for so long, and now for 27 percent of sales last year. room to display watches, jewels, we are reaping the rewards.” The brand recently opened its belts and textiles — categories that The Bologna, Italy-based com- third store in Hanoi, Vietnam, and have expanded. “This model is in Two weeks after announcing that she would not be having a pany closed 2012 with sales of the first in Thailand, in Bangkok, line with the recent upgrade of the runway show, Betsey Johnson has changed her mind and will 212 million euros, or $271.3 mil- in a partnership with Central brand, which is becoming more of a be back at next month’s New York Fashion Week. PAGE 11 lion at average exchange. Over Marketing Group, a division of lifestyle label,” said Furlanetto. the past two years, Furla’s rev- Central Group, which also controls Furlanetto had no news in ref- New York Times executive editor Jill Abramson addressed enues grew 35 percent. Italy’s La Rinascente department erence to the arrival of a new chief a panel convened by The New Republic to ponder “the While 2012 earnings before store chain. Furla also entered the executive officer, as former ceo unexpected future of media.” PAGE 11 interest, taxes, depreciation and Indian market with its first store in Eraldo Poletto left in November amortization are still not avail- Mumbai and has unveiled seven for Alfred Dunhill. “We have a ON WWD.COM able, 2011 EBITDA totaled 25 stores in six months in Indonesia. strong and passionate managerial million euros, or $34.7 million, The Mumbai unit was modeled team in place,” she stressed. EYE: Demi Moore, Rachel Zoe, Nicole Richie and other L.A. up 47 percent compared with the after the new blueprint, intro- She also reiterated that there regulars were at Chateau Marmont for Salvatore Ferragamo’s previous year. duced in other stores that opened are no plans to publicly list the spring presentation. For more images, see WWD.com/eye. Furlanetto said the company, in Asia (in Beijing; Singapore; company, which last year issued a TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS which is controlled by her family, Dubai; Taipei, Taiwan; Macau, bonus to its employees for a total [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. has been expanding around the and four units in Hong Kong) and of 1.5 million euros, or $1.9 mil- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC.