WWD Feb16 Wrap Armani Covers1-2.qxp 2/4/09 5:01 PM Page 1

GIORGIO ARMANI CORPORATION 114 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, NY 10011 T. 212.209.3595 F.212.209.3795 WWD MONDAY - OVERSIZED COVER WRAP (4C) POSITION: Cover ISSUE: 2-16-2009 DUE DATE: 2-3-2009 TRIM: 11.375" x 14.75" BLEED: 11.625" X 15" SPECS: DIGITAL WWD Feb16 Wrap Armani Covers1-2.qxp 2/4/09 5:01 PM Page 2

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GIORGIO ARMANI CORPORATION 114 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, NY 10011 T. 212.209.3595 F.212.209.3795 WWD MONDAY - OVERSIZED COVER WRAP (4C) POSITION: Cover 2 ISSUE: 2-16-2009 DUE DATE: 2-3-2009 TRIM: 11.375" x 14.75" BLEED: 11.625" X 15" SPECS: DIGITAL Page 1Monday

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2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 WWD.COM L’Oréal Taps Attal to Head R&D, Roze for U.S. Unit By Pete Born Although some securities analysts have sharp- ly criticized L’Oréal for weak quarterly sales after four sometimes trying years a results in the last year, exacerbated by what at the helm of L’Oréal’s North American opera- at least one financial house sees as a rollback WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday tion, Laurent Attal is being promoted back to the of advertising, Attal maintains that the North Paris headquarters to take charge of the indus- American subsidiary has picked up market FASHION try leader’s global research and development ef- share in three of its four divisions — consumer New York Fashion Week continued with fort, plus its year-old innovation department. products, professional salon products and the 6 collections from Diane von Furstenberg, DKNY, Attal will be replaced in New York by active dermatological division — during the past Nicole Miller and Lela Rose. Frederic Roze as the new president and chief year. Attal admitted that fourth business, depart- executive officer of L’Oréal USA. ment stores, has been “challenging.” Agon only GENERAL Attal’s new title will be executive vice presi- had praise: “He did a terrific job in a difficult The good news for brands seeking an investor or dent and managing director of research and in- environment during the last four years.” s 1 buyer is there are buyers out there, but the bad novation, succeeding Jean-François Grollier, who Attal pointed with pride to the Garnier brands news is they don’t want to pay much. is retiring at age 65 after 40 years with L’Oréal. entry into skin care with Nutritioniste in January In a telephone interview Saturday, Jean-Paul 2007, which netted L’Oréal five share points into 13 Band of Outsiders designer Scott Sternberg has Agon, ceo of parent L’Oréal, described Grollier the highly competitive mass skin care market. struck a licensing deal with Pier SpA for his as the driving force behind the company’s R&D The Consumer Products Division sailed into the women’s line Boy by Band of Outsiders. effort, the largest in the industry accounting for downdraft of recession by ramping up its adver- ACCESSORIES: Independent jewelry designers 3.3 to 3.4 percent of sales (last year 17 billion tising by 10.9 percent for the fourth quarter. The 18 are discovering new modes of survival: keeping euros) and employing more than 3,000 workers. result was a 2.3 percent increase in sales for the prices modest and designs spectacular. Grollier had the vision of expanding the scope quarter while competitors suffered a 2.2 percent of beauty research beyond chemistry to include dip, said Joseph Campinell, division president. 20 INNERWEAR: The Emporio Armani Underwear biology and life sciences while building a world- Just weeks ago, David Cragg announced his re- brand for men and women is taking its cue from wide network of laboratories and evaluation cen- tirement as L’Oréal Professional Products Division’s the line’s rtw as it enters the U.S. market. ters. Agon said that the innovation department, president. While criticized by some on Wall Street, Lavelle Olexa, Lord & Taylor’s senior vice president which is charged with “anticipating new trends Attal was supported by Agon for making what he 24 and fashion director, is leaving the company on and working with the labs at an early stage,” was saw as key acquisitions, namely purchase of three Feb. 27 after 20 years at the store. linked to Attal’s R&D portfolio “to accelerate salon distribution operations. Attal pointed out that the innovation and make sure the the move allowed L’Oréal to do what 24 Fast-fashion chain Forever 21 plans to launch a R&D force drives to deliver [it].” it does in the rest of the world— sell prototype in Los Cerritos Center near Los Angeles Agon added, “we believe this is direct to hair salons in a country that this year that will double its average store size. very important for the company. has over 200,000 salons. By acquiring 26 Wal-Mart Stores has begun selling a new men’s What sells now is innovation.” control of distribution for almost 50 line called American Classics from Russell Roze, 47, head of the mass-mar- percent of its business “we can bet- Simmons to a small number of its U.S. doors. ket Consumer Products Division ter control the destiny of our salon for Europe, is to arrive in New business,” he said. WWD Accessories is included York in March and succeed Attal Moreover, he argues, it gives Tory Burch with this issue as a supplement. by July 1. He joined L’Oréal in 1986 L’Oreal a direct link “allowing us to Classified Advertisements...... 27 and became managing director of Laurent get closer to our hairdressers,” Attal the Consumer Products Division of Attal said. This is particularly necessary To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is L’Oréal Russia before being named in the case of beauty supply stores, [email protected], using the individual’s name. general manager of Gemey France which are patronized by booth rent- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 in 1996. ers, who comprise a significant slice FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Later, as managing director of of the hairdresser population. VOLUME 197, NO. 34. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and L’Oréal Argentina, Roze is credited He also pointed to a strengthen- August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion with orchestrating the recovery of ing of the dermo cosmetics busi- Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY the business amid a financial crisis. ness, with the dermatological skin 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human He moved to Spain in 2002 as head care products being merchandised Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail of both the Consumer Products and in their sections of pilot CVS drug- Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: Professional Products Divisions, stores, amounting to 700 doors in return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR and boosted market share in many the Northeast and California. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box categories, L’Oréal said. Roze be- Frederic 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new came director of the Consumer Roze and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks BEAUTY BEAT after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Products Division for Western Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests Europe in 2004, then his duties were expanded In addition to improvements in the sales ef- to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that across Europe. fort in the last four years, Attal said he was offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or Agon said Attal, 51, was picked to spearhead proud of the modernization of L’Oréal’s systems. information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S R&D and innovation, not only because he has a The financial community’s reaction was mixed. WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, background in science but also for his strategic “Research and development is very important at AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, acumen and leadership abilities. L’Oréal, it’s what differentiates the brand, that and ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY Attal, was a trained dermatologist and earned its marketing know-how,” said Chicuong Dong, an REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. an M.B.A. before joining L’Oréal in 1986. He built analyst at Richelieu Finance in Paris. “We could the company’s Active Cosmetics Division into a also read into the news that there’s a desire to worldwide force before moving to New York in bring fresh blood to the U.S., which has been a dif- 2005 and taking the reins of L’Oréal USA, which ficult market. It’s too early to tell. We’ll know more DAILY generated estimated sales last year of $5 billion. at the conference on Tuesday.” The analyst was re- We’re all hookers in one The year after he arrived in the U.S., the ferring to L’Oréal’s financial analysis meeting. “ department store world was rocked by the ab- Dan Dolev, associate European HPC analyst QUote way or another. sorption of May Co. into Federated Department of Sanford C. Bernstein & Co. LLC said, “North ” Stores Inc., which is now Macy’s Inc. That was America has clearly been a problem business for — Kelly Cutrone of People’s Revolution on followed by a long period of destocking among L’Oréal for some time…so this move suggests that Ashley Dupré, whom she let into Yiguel Azrouël’s retailers. In the last year, recession morphed senior management is shaking things up.” show and was subsequently fired. Page 16. into a financial meltdown and the entire luxury — With contributions from Brid Costello segment took a major body blow. However, Attal sees his four years in New For more on L’Oréal’s business CORRECTION York as a number of pluses and one long struggle David Kennedy is president and chief executive officer of Revlon. — the crunching of luxury. plans, see WWD.com. His title was incorrect in a story on page 18, Friday. coming this week DKNY TODAY ON MONDAY: Mercedes-Benz WEDNESDAY: Capsule, Las Vegas releases the Consumer Price New York Fashion Week (through Thursday). Index for January. continues (through Friday). • Project Show, Las Vegas • J.C. Penney reports fourth- • AccessoriestheShow, Curve (through Friday). quarter and year-end sales NV, Moda Las Vegas and MRket, • Dress Barn reports and earnings. Las Vegas (through Wednesday). fourth-quarter and year-end • ASAP Global Sourcing sales and earnings. SATURDAY: Atelier Designer WWD Show, Sourcing at MAGIC Collections, Designers at .com and Women’s Wear in Nevada, THURSDAY: The U.S. Labor the Essex House, Designers Las Vegas (through Thursday). Department releases the & Agents and The Train, • Ongoing coverage of New York Producer Price Index New York (through Feb. 23). Fashion Week, including reviews, TUESDAY: ENK Vegas, for January. parties and Fashion Scoops MAGIC Marketplace and SUNDAY: AccessoriestheShow, • Full runs of show from all the Pool Tradeshow, Las Vegas FRIDAY: Rendez-Vous NYC, Coterie, Curve NY and collections (through Thursday). New York (through Sunday). Moda Manhattan, New York • Fossil and Wal-Mart report • London Fashion Week (through Feb. 24). • Videos of key shows fourth-quarter and year-end (through Feb. 24). • About J, Milan GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY • Backstage beauty sales and earnings. • The Labor Department (through Feb. 24). ATLANTA BAL HARBOUR BOcA RATON BOSTON EAST HAMPTON LAS VEGAS NEW YORK LONDON PARIS MILAN ISTANBUL MOScOW DUBAI HONG KONG SEOUL ELIETAHARI.cOM 4 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 WWD.COM

Zac Posen and Jason Wu Sasha Pivovarova Stealth Shoppers IN A FURTHER SIGN OF THESE MORE-SUBDUED times, Prada’s party on Friday night was far calmer than seasons past. There were no rock bands or celebrities swilling beers till midnight, just a civilized group of designers, editors and models who arrived to the SoHo fl agship for cocktails at 6 and were out of there by 9. Jason Wu, Alberta Ferretti, Zac Posen, Maria Cornejo, Zoe Saldana, Akiko Ogawa and a host of others came to congratulate stylist Alex White, who designed the windows and interiors of the store for Prada’s Iconoclast series. White’s vision began with the “good” — an all- white grouping on the Broadway side — and ended with the “bad” — a black-and-red display of mannequins wearing Mickey Mouse Zoe Saldana ears facing Mercer Street. Needless to say, most folks congregated toward the bad, where guests like Sophia Hesketh and Hope Atherton Cecilia Dean were ordering Champagne and mojitos. Model Sasha Pivovarova did at Prada. an impromptu (free) photo session for the photographers and snapper Roxanne Lowit shot pics of the fake mannequins. Meanwhile, January Jones and Brittany Snow trekked all the way to St. John’s Center off the West Side Highway for a special VIP shopping night for the new McQ Alexander McQueen for Target line. The huge warehouse-like space was decked out with chain-link fence booths (stocked with ankle-zipper leggings, tattoo print Ts and studded Fashion Week jumpsuits), graffi ti art and, naturally, multiple well-stocked bars — all the parties, see better to loosen up any reticent shoppers. WWD.com. While others crowded a makeshift stage where British band The Duke Spirit rocked out, actress Rose Byrne lugged a pile of clothes toward a dressing room. Gretchen Mol forewent the snaking line, discreetly trying her January Jones stash on in a corner. “It’s too long a wait,” she shrugged, before heading off to pay for her hot pink-printed bathing suit.

that now the actual accent sounds like a parody. But on stage is always honest. So I depend on David for the true if [Eva] comes across as a one-dimensional villain of dish, because you never know when you are being shined on. the piece, it’s less interesting for everybody: the other RUEHL actors on the stage, the playwright and the audience. WWD: What about reviews? Do you pay attention to them? M.R.: A lot of actors don’t, but I want to get a cross-section of the WWD: Do you have to do extensive preparation for piece and how my work in it is received. It’s amazing when you get the play every night? everything from enormous kudos to “Oh well, I thought it was over- BREAKER M.R.: Back in the day, I used to prepare the way acting,” or “That accent is unbelievable,” and you think, “Did you see I hear the other actors in this show preparing. this on the same night, gentlemen?” But it’s good. Sometimes you EVERY NIGHT AT 8 THESE DAYS, MERCEDES RUEHL I would do the vocal exercises and sit and don’t get an honest appraisal from everyone else because everyone morphs into Eva Adler, an overbearing, manipulative meditate and it would take about an hour. wants to be your friend. I look at it all and I think about it all. mother who tries to protect her daughter Lili (Lily Rabe) Now it takes me fi ve minutes. from the evils of the world — or at least, the WASP-y WWD: Do you feel the pressures of aging as an actress? suitors who wash ashore at the Catskills resort where WWD: On stage, your relationship with Lily M.R.: My mom always lied about her age. At one point when she they summer. As part of the Manhattan Theatre Club Rabe’s character is fraught with tension. Do went to the DMV to renew her license, there were so many different revival of Richard Greenberg’s “The American Plan” (on you get along with her offstage? versions of her age in the records that they almost didn’t issue her a until March 15), Ruehl also dons very proper Sixties garb license. And she always forgot what her latest lie was. So at a certain and very large gems. In real life, the 60-year-old actress is a point, I decided you have to look at this age thing and come to terms year-round resident of East Hampton, where she lives with artist with the fact that it’s part of the experience of living. You have to cop David Geiser and their son Jake (older son Christopher lives in Stage is harder. Stage to the age that you are and try to do it as gracefully as possible. I Boston). She favors slacks, sweaters and her jewelry consists of “ resent the idea that there’s something shameful about aging. silver rings and a semiprecious necklace she designed herself is scarier…And stage on a trip to Santa Fe, N.M. Ruehl is also a much more relaxed WWD: You have done extensive work in fi lm, TV and stage. personality, perhaps in part thanks to her Oscar (for 1991’s “The basically doesn’t pay. Which do you prefer? Fisher King”), Tony and Obie awards. — Mercedes” Ruehl M.R.: Stage is harder. Stage is scarier. Stage is eight times Here, Ruehl speaks with WWD about swapping her Queens a week. And stage basically doesn’t pay. Having said that, I accent for a German one, stage versus fi lm and pink Uggs. prefer stage, because it’s the only place the actor controls the M.R.: I love Lily. We have a sort of proceedings. In fi lm, you are at the mercy of the director and WWD: What made you want to do this role? brinksmanship about wearing interesting articles the editor. In television, you are at the mercy of the editors and Mercedes Ruehl: Theater is very grueling. When I do theater it has of clothing into the theater — “If you like this the writers. But theater is the actor’s medium. to be really worth it, because it means from Tuesday night through jacket, wait till you see the shirt I’m going to Friday, I don’t see my son. It’s gotta be a good character and it’s wear tomorrow.” I really gobsmacked her when I WWD: What are you doing next? gotta be a well-written play. But mostly the character needs to be came in in fuchsia Ugg boots a few weeks ago. M.R.: I’d like to get involved with directing. In terms of acting, very attractive to me. It is and it was and it did and here I am. I take what comes. The best stuff in my life always comes WWD: Where did you pick those up? barreling out of left fi eld when I least expect it — like “The WWD: How did you develop Eva’s accent? Were you concerned M.R.: My partner David is a painter and he got Fisher King.” One day you are thinking, “Didn’t I have a career?” at all that it might be overpowering? them for me. He’s not a man who confi nes and nine months later you get an Oscar. My number came up M.R.: It happens to be an accent that came to me very easily, himself to earth tones. I used to say, a long in the celestial lottery, you know? But then fortune’s wheel has but a wonderful woman who works at Juilliard [also] made some time ago, “All actors should marry nurses a way of turning. You go to the three o’clock and the six o’clock tapes for me. She got a German woman to record every line in and all actresses should marry bankers.” position, because you can only stay on the crest for so long. The the play for me, so I was able to listen and pick and choose. The But David is a very creative man and he’s good thing is, the wheel is always turning. German accent has been done so much and parodied so much exceptionally well read. His response to what he sees — Elisa Lipsky-Karasz PRADA PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; JONES BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN; RUEHL BY ROBERT MITRA; RUEHL’S HAIR BY DAVID EVANGELISTA AND MAKEUP BY JOETTE BALSAMO/DAVID EVANGELISTA SALON EVANGELISTA BALSAMO/DAVID JOETTE BY MAKEUP AND EVANGELISTA DAVID BY HAIR RUEHL’S MITRA; ROBERT BY RUEHL WHALEN; SOMODY KRISTEN BY JONES EICHNER; STEVE BY PHOTOS PARTY PRADA

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6 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 collections/fall NEW ’09 NewFeisty, sultry or evenYork down to business Heats — whatever the Up mood, all kinds of chic girls stalked the fall runways. Diane von Diane von YORK Furstenberg Furstenberg t

Victoria Beckham t

Diane von Furstenberg: If anyone knows fashion’s Darwinian jersey gown, some of the brightest moments came as There were also “capes,” actually swing- dynamics, it’s Diane von Furstenberg, a woman who homespun jackets, a few Navajo styles, beautifully back affairs with zip-up sleeves, and sultry has proven she can persevere. And what better time to done in purple and blue, in particular. Indeed, von evening gowns — some with long sleeves! — flaunt those killer instincts, as von Furstenberg did with Furstenberg showed a deft hand for earthy mixes, so with a Forties siren feel. As for helping a gal a fun, feisty collection of terrific real clothes and fanciful much so that the graphic black-and-whites seemed suck it all in, Beckham removed the inner headgear. “It’s about survival,” said von Furstenberg at out of place. Still, for all the primal references, this “obi” construction featured in numerous her studio a few days before the show, adding that, for collection was highly evolved. spring designs, in favor of offering a single, fall, her girl is “a nomad. Everywhere she goes, she fits separate corset, retailing for $590. “That in.” By that, she must’ve been referring to the endless Victoria Beckham: “Madonna — you can’t do better than helps keep the price of the dresses down,” layering, mixing and matching possibilities she provided that!” Victoria Beckham joked when asked to identify she said. Might it also signal an innerwear because, worn together, these clothes were the stand-out, her emerging customer base. (An early group of her collection in the near feature? “Why,” look-at-me sort. spring dresses hit Bergdorf Goodman and Selfridges Beckham mused, “that’s a very good idea.” Von Furstenberg’s was a charming vagabond, weeks ago.) She was referring to the current W photo decked in feral prints, fabulous, funky knits and loads shoot in which Madonna makes steamy stuff of one look. DKNY: What a difference six months can of texture. The looks came pared down, as in the first In fact, Beckham has a broader base in mind. make. Last time around, the 20-year- slinky, leopard-print velvet dress, and piled on: One Though too early to tell a mere two collections into her old label paid homage to streetwear vibrant outfit featured a plaid mohair coat, over a second career, judging from the controlled lineup she decadence; for fall, DKNY was “back ribbed knit turtleneck, plaid mohair mini and graphic, showed on Sunday, it seems that she may indeed be to business,” according to Donna tribal-print leggings, a nearly ubiquitous effect that no lightweight. (Figuratively, that is. The former Posh Karan. “It has optimism, but, at the came in camouflage, animal prints and fluorescent Spice is still a slip of a girl.) Beckham’s focus remains same time, there’s a new reality, and varieties, and added a fresh, ferocious feeling to the on curvy, sensual dresses that won’t date easily. Such I had a modern girl in mind,” Karan lineup. Likewise for the kooky knit caps festooned was her launch raison d’être, which now, one very said of her collection, which focused on with pom-poms, an allusion to faux fur, which von bizarre season later, seems ever so savvy. For fall, she structured and straightforward suits (that girl, Furstenberg let fly on hats, handbags and the trim added shorter, more relaxed looks and conversely, more after all, has an office to go to). To wit, there of a bouclé coat. While there was plenty of shine in demonstrative flourishes such as a glam fold to the was a slim red and gray houndstooth jacket and sassy sequin shift dresses and the final metallic liquid bodice of a cocktail dress inspired by her wedding gown. skirt, and a series of boxy, stretch wool jackets in gray WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 7 collections/fall WWD.COM Koi Suwannagate ’09 DKNY

For all collections’ complete run of show, see WWD.com MITRA GIANNONI AND ROBERT GIOVANNI AQUINO, JOHN BY DKNY PHOTOS

and cerise. Hemlines dropped below the knee on pencil skirts, done in cozy tweed and flannel. The toppers, however, were the highlight: from jaunty capes and FASHION SCOOPS bomber jackets to a superb taupe mohair car coat, these BRYANBOY’S BIG ADVENTURE: Marc Jacobs’ guest list might ALL FOR ALEXANDER: Sarah Jessica Parker is Harper’s Bazaar’s pieces possessed a timeless quality. And there was sexier be dramatically slashed this season, but Bryanboy is winging March cover girl, but that didn’t stop the actress from stealing and versatile fare, too, as with a series of wool jersey his way to attend both the Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc a seat next to Anna Wintour at the Alexander Wang show on wrap dresses with sweetheart necklines and a cool Jacobs shows. The Manila-based blogger’s fashion week Saturday afternoon. The actress, who donned a black Wang leopard-print minidress. action doesn’t end there — he’s set to film and narrate a number for the occasion, chatted up the Vogue editor in chief 25-minute documentary on Jacobs’ fall-winter 2009-10 between posing for photo ops. “I haven’t gone to a fashion show Koi Suwannagate: The economy has everyone on alert. season for the Japanese market, debuting in July. According in years,” said Parker, who reported she made an exception for After flexing her prowess in wovens last season, Koi to Bryanboy, the film is being coordinated by Martin Webb Wang because “he’s such an amazing designer, especially in Suwannagate returned to knitwear, with a lineup of 15 for Marc Jacobs Japan, with “Lost in Translation” co- these economic times.” The “Sex and the City” star, who reported gorgeous hand-crafted looks. (A lone silk gown was a last- producer Stephen Schible tapped as producer. Filming in she won’t be attending any other shows this week, said she hoped minute addition.) Suwannagate honed in on her favorite blogger reportage-style with a handicam, Bryanboy is due to introduce herself to Wang backstage. “But only if he’s not too themes with sculpted rosettes aplenty on capes, vests to tour Jacobs’ workshops, show rehearsals, backstage busy. I don’t want to bother him,” she said. and sweaters, but she tempered the frou with a subtle hair and makeup, front rows and the shows themselves. Those joining Parker in the front row at the Roseland Ballroom graphic edge, inspired by Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber- The blogger is an avid Jacobs fan — so much so that the included rock offspring Alexandra Richards and Zoë Kravitz, Erin Arp. Take, for instance, the quilted geometric patterns designer famously named a bag after Bryanboy and FedEx- Wasson and Brooklyn-based singer Santigold, who wasn’t there to on a plush cashmere jacket. The designer added a ed him the prototype. How is the New York Fashion Week look for her next onstage ensemble. “They’re too nice to perform mannish vibe as well in a series of boyfriend cardis with virgin feeling about the prospect of being thrown in at in,” she said of Wang’s designs. “I need to wear workout clothes.” a strong shoulder emphasis and some terrific trouser the deep end of the event, with the promise of unfettered Meanwhile, the presence of Topshop’s Sir Philip Green at the leggings, proving she’s capable of more than just the access to one of its hottest tickets? “Totally gobsmacked” show raised a few suspicious eyebrows. Could a collaboration romantic reverie. Soon, we might even see another he told WWD. “I thought the fairies had lost the plot! It’s an between Topshop and the designer be on the horizon? Green side — Suwannagate let slip that she’s in talks to do honor to have this very rare opportunity. I’m excited to be downplayed the possibility. “Anna [Wintour] said I should come and a private label for another company. “And it won’t working on this project with Marc Jacobs Japan as Marc is take a look,” Green said. “I am just here to see what’s happening.” be one season,” she noted. “It’ll be long-term.” one of my favorite designers.” For more Fashion Scoops, see page 16 8 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 collections/fall Nicole Miller NEW ’09 ADAM Adam Lippes YORK mitra

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Nicole Miller: After years of globe-trotting for inspiration, Nicole Miller decided to regalia of a Samurai uniform, putting the motif to work in an upbeat sportswear go for something closer to home — the imposing angles of New York City, perhaps? context. He moved between chic dresses, whether a cream wool sheath with gold side Instead of exotic prints, her collection was flush with architectural references, embroideries or a perfect navy shirtdress, and colorful silk suitings, one or two of such as sharp lines, geometric cuts and origami effects, rendered mostly in black which got lost in Eighties power mode. When it came to the sportiest looks, however, with strokes of cobalt blue and fuchsia. Miller worked the motif subtly at first with there were no such strays, as pilings anchored by lush sweaters and multiple textures straightforward shift dresses, some with square shoulders, others with tucking, imparted a delightful, slightly bohemian flavor. Among the hits: a gray cardigan over a and escalated it into sexy sophistication with bondage details and bustier dresses. basketweave sweatshirt, floral blouse and leggings; a thick handknit sweatercoat, and Exposed zippers and leather biker jackets hammered home this edgier, more urban a classic anorak gone wacky with iridescent navy and purple fur lining. Miller moment, which was a strong showing. Alexander Wang: Alexander Wang found inspiration in the 1992 flick “Batman ADAM Adam Lippes: Adam Lippes made his outing an ode to Japanese iconography, Returns,” especially the scene when Michelle Pfeiffer turns from mousy librarian inspired by a recent photography show at Boston’s Peabody Museum. And if the to latex-wearing, femme fatale Catwoman. The translation? Wang at his most results sometimes approached the discordant side of versatile, many of the clothes aggressive, with a feral tough-chic vibe. “These girls grew up like a pack of looked great. Lippes favored vibrant colors and effects such as delicate cherry wolves,” he explained. “They get what they want.” If a girl wants rocker fierceness blossoms embroidered on silk and textured metallic detailing that recalled the with loads of skin-baring, flying fur and biker shorts galore, then Wang’s her guy. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 9 WWD.COM

Rag & Bone Rag & Bone Alexander Wang

Vena Cava

Ditto for fans of slicked-up Eighties-meets-Nineties power dressing; they’ll love Indeed, a hardness ran throughout the collection, which evoked the moody glamour his terrific sharp, slim tailored numbers. In fact, even though the single-minded of Eighties greats from Stevie Nicks to Kate Bush, effortlessly toeing the line slashing, studding and street-savvy tough chic grew repetitious, Wang has already between grace and edge. connected big-time with the antiflowy frock set. Settling in for the show, Opening Ceremony co-owner Carol Lim noted that in just two weeks, Wang’s spring Rag & Bone: Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s sleek tailoring lent itself collection has had a 70 percent sell-through. beautifully to this season’s dignified warrior theme. In women’s wear, fencing or cutaway coats were worn with chunky knits and chain mail that offered a balance Vena Cava: Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock, known for lovely dresses that a certain to leggings or kilts, both accented with leather. The duo wisely showed lots of chic but never too-girly girl wears, got a bit ambitious this time out, and cheers layers, playing with varying textures and soft prints that gave their sometimes stark to that. Using their very salable silk frocks as a foundation point, Buhai and collection a great pile-it-on feel and, perhaps more importantly in today’s economy, Mayock constructed snug jackets with asymmetric pleating, gowns with sexy torso an army of gotta-have-it items. cutouts and skirts toughened up with zippers and buckles. These were intricate In men’s wear, the designers’ highly tailored collection had a pleasing sobriety. and layered pieces, in hologram-esque colors of jade and granite, a nod to the Embracing the exoticism of a new “ninja” pant silhouette — voluminous and collection’s inspiration — the American Museum of Natural History’s Hall of Gems cinched at the knees and ankles — was a risk that paid off. Silver suits, chain-mail and Minerals. Despite the heaped-on embellishments there was nothing fussy here. vests and officer jackets with crested buttons also gave the men a fighting spirit. 10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009

Reem Acra Lela Rose Ashleigh Verrier

Tom Scott MITRA, STEVE EICHNER AND THOMAS IANNACCONE WHALEN, ROBERT ERICKSEN, KRISTEN SOMODY GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE PHOTOS BY

Reem Acra: Grecian draping was the made in the designer’s studio. Most a ribbed cashmere coat over a draped, primitive — Azria’s currently drumming, theme at Reem Acra, and it was echoed imaginative were the necklaces on nude embroidered silk and wool sheath, according to show notes, “to the beat of in the backdrops at the show. While illusion net that were inset on cowl- while short little paillette tank dresses the urban tribe” — and, thus, concrete- the evening looks were a mix of short neck columns or attached to strapless and a metallic tweed sheath also had a jungle tough chic. Think Grace Jones- and long, the focus was on a series of dresses. These gave the effect of a gown casual élan. Rose’s gowns played with as-Zula hitting the Miami club scene. gorgeous gowns in silk satins, taffetas, accessorized by important jewelry. paradox — a floating one-shoulder look, Azria’s Africana motif came out in chiffons and shantungs that were for instance, was shown in a strict black- graphic tribal patterns, slick snakeskin draped and twisted. The silhouettes Lela Rose: Dressed-up sportswear and-white plaid paper taffeta. And it all inserts and metal-plate embellishments. had a certain similarity, but the dresses and sporty evening looks were the made sense. Colors, meanwhile, stayed earthy: nevertheless looked distinctive in Acra’s focus of Lela Rose’s lovely collection. browns, greens, coppers and blacks. As rich palette of pastels and jewel tones. She interpreted them with gentle Hervé Léger by Max Azria: Few fashion for the silhouette, it was thigh-grazing, The black pleated top worn with a long contradictions and in graphic texture houses delight in being a one-trick body-conscious and sexy — natch. But iridescent silk sarong skirt was less and pattern mixes: printed taffeta, pony. Not so at Hervé Léger, where Azria kicked it up an edgy notch with formal. But what anchored the collection for instance, in a skirt or trenchcoat, bandeau dresses rule — and will as long tight padded shoulders, à la recent were the jewels: bold metal and stone mixed with pieces in rich, gravel-toned as there are heat-seeking starlets to go Balmain, for an extra dose of warrior or cloth clips, bracelets and necklaces tweeds. She combined hard and soft in around. For fall, the look went utterly savagery. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 11 collections/fall WWD.COM

Hervé Léger ’09 Boy by Band of Outsiders Maria Pinto by Max Azria NEW YORK

Windy City Style “Strike while the iron is hot” might well have been the driving force behind the strong, chic collection that Chicago designer Maria Pinto brought to New York on Friday for appointments. Michelle Obama’s first go-to fashion person, Pinto enjoyed a boost during Barack Obama’s campaign. “She’s been a fabulous part of my life,” Pinto said of her longtime client, who has recently opted for other young designers, notably for the inauguration. However, Pinto doesn’t feel forgotten. “I think Michelle just comes from her heart,” Pinto said. “Like, ‘If I feel good in this dress, that’s what I’m going to Band of Outsiders wear today.’” Luckily for all of Pinto’s loyal ladies, the designer did not lose focus for fall. In fact, judging from her expanded evening offerings, the Obama buzz has helped her evolve beyond the great daywear for which she’s known. Not surprisingly, there were fabulous coats (“I’m a Chicagoan,” Pinto said, “so I can’t have enough”) in glossy alpaca and wool. Day dresses, meanwhile, were slim in the front with cocoon-like volume in back, a nod to Pinto’s “continuous curves” theme. Subtle curves were also worked into evening, as in hand-embroidered tulle and silk bias cut gowns. The 90-piece collection wholesales from $400 to $1,200 and will be available at Takashimaya in New York and at the designer’s Chicago boutique, though her wraps are sold at Barneys New York and Saks Fifth Avenue. Whether any of it will make it into the First Lady’s fall wardrobe remains to be seen. “We’ve reached out to her,” Pinto said. “But it’s not so urgent. I think she has a lot of other things on her agenda.”

Ashleigh Verrier: The 1964 film “The Boy by Band of Outsiders: With Bogart on the cotton jersey. And he devised a rubber, Umbrellas of Cherbourg” was Ashleigh brain, Scott Sternberg’s take on classic all- trompe l’oeil version of the classic boat shoe Verrier’s inspiration, and the mood came American sportswear for women was pitch for his Sperry Top-Sider collaboration. For through best in dressed-up sportswear: perfect. Layered with abandon, cardigans more on Band of Outsiders, see page 13. girly, high-waisted dresses; short, ruffle- were extra long and rugby striped sweaters waisted skirts, and slender pants. Soft added a dash of cozy to his well-cut suiting. Tom Scott: Tom Scott dubbed his collection shapes with frills were effectively balanced There was even a luxe quotient with the “Things I Don’t Like.” One such example: by strictly tailored jackets and coats. The designer’s first foray into fur à la a chic gray Football, which he interpreted in his ingenue motif worked splendidly when chinchilla coat. characteristically subtle, witty way. The kept charming, rather than those echoes In men’s wear, Sternberg continued to linebacker-broad shoulders of alpaca of little Lolitas. Some of Verrier’s more nurture the cult following for his extremely sweaters, for instance, and pullovers with sophisticated looks were also notable: narrow, boyish suits, adding a patchwork fringed knit pom-pom sleeves. Also great midnight or beige velvet dresses, a black style of gray suitings to the repertoire. He were Scott’s hairy “fur” alpaca coats and satin wrap coat and a shapely wool jacket also made concessions to a customer looking — in his first stab at the home market — with hand-cut flowers — all splashed with for a greater sense of ease, tailoring cozy his own luxe version of the blanket-cum- crystals. trousers out of a shetland wool lined with sweater Snuggie. 12 WWD, monday, february 16, 2009 WWD.COM Elise Threeasfour Øverland more from the shows... Lacoste: Christophe Lemaire’s newly named Black collection for Lacoste offered plenty of comfort in his women’s lineup of cozy knits, but voluminous double-faced wool coats had the most impact. In men’s wear, Lemaire showed strongest conviction with his milky-colored, fine-knit suits, but sweaters — from a shawl- collared, double-breasted cozy cardigan to geometric patterned pullovers — held the most appeal. Lacoste Preen: Calling all glamazons — with their racy peekaboo dresses and cutout toppers, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi have got your numbers.

Christian Cota: Christian Cota presented his fourth Lorick: Abigail Lorick’s fall and strongest collection to date. Inspired by geology, he lineup worked best in simple, developed beautifully complex prints and textures from tailored looks, as in shirtdresses photographs of cracked stones and crystals. Stunners and shifts, but verged on included an embellished high-waisted mini, and the designer stale with gaudy fabrics and showed his draping skills in a swirled silk satin-faced organza uninspired designs. skirt that resembled rock strata twisted in an earthquake, paired with a speckled pebble print blouse. Cushnie et Ochs: Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs’ best Ohne Ohne Titel: In spite of difficult times, young designers are looks were the midcalf black Titel stepping up to the plate, giving the fashion world a much- turtleneck dress and a series needed lift. Case in point: Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, the of second-skin ombré gray collections/fall duo behind Ohne Titel, who turned out a tight lineup of chain- minidresses, but much of the mail wrap dresses, black crystal stud tops and biker-inspired rest seemed too much, too jackets and pants. It sounds like this girl should be riding short and too tight. ’09 a Harley, but Adams and Gill have a hand in tailoring and construction that elevated the collection’s chic rocker look. Patrik Rzepski: Very dark Lacoste romance was the vibe of NEW Elise Øverland: For fall, Elise Øverland presented a more Patrik Rzepski’s collection of sophisticated version of her usual leather array of unfinished, mostly black separates and dresses, some with grungy looks. This time around, the collection looked complete. There interesting metallic mesh details. were plenty of desirable separates in metallic fabrics, paillettes and even velvet coats and jackets that, when all put together, were very much in Graey: Janet Kim’s fall collection, her first to YORK keeping with the season’s rock ’n’ roll attitude. include dresses, found its strength in playful silk frocks with geometric color blocking, but fell flat in Threeasfour: Natural as a concept doesn’t have to mean granola, more simple designs with exposed puckered seams. especially in the hands of talented designers. In an almost-impossible- to-get-into presentation, Gabriel Asfour, Angela Donhauser and Adi Staerk: Camilla Staerk worked black leather Gil of Threeasfour played with organic geometry. The collection and lace into a beautiful collection of body- featured straight lines and sharp tailoring on dresses, coats and pants. skimming skirts and pants, plus standout Sleek and modern, yes, and for a Space Age feel, the trio worked leather-accented coats, inspired by Robert Christian Cota oversize crystal embellishments for extra shine. Beam me up. Mapplethorpe’s photographs of Patti Smith.

Tiffany Amber Oh, Savannah A Living Doll Stoned THISDAY/ARISE MAGAZINE’S Cherrie four-collection presentation made Talk about a timeless Marchesa a strong statement for the arts beauty. Barbie, that and aesthetics of Africa. While perpetually blonde, tan and some looks were more literal tippy-toed clotheshorse, than others, Nigerian Folake has hit the big 5-0. And in Akindele’s Tiffany Amber line was honor of America’s foremost the most successful, displaying fashion doll’s birthday, the the best balance of fashion and CFDA asked 50 designers tradition with elegantly simple, for their take on Barbie’s mitra iannaccone and robert classic shapes, rendered in dream wardrobe. Judging beautiful fabrics with intricate by the looks that walked the beading. The latter corseted a sparkly pink runway Saturday floaty caftan and hemmed crisp afternoon, much to the delight A-line dresses. Malian Lamine of a buoyant crowd of Barbie Badian Kouyaté’s sportswear for girls of all ages, the designers Xuly Bët included some terrific were happy to address the charcoal denim jackets and theme. Michael Kors, Bryan easy jumpsuits. South African Bradley and Kimora Lee Nkhensani Manganyi’s collection Simmons were among those for Stoned Cherrie was inspired by who dreamed up additions singer-activist Miriam Makeba, to Barbie’s massive closet, whose stylish spirit was reflected which at last count held more in everything from a leather than 105 million yards of skirt and printed silk shirt with fabric and one billion pairs Naeem billowing sleeves to a floating of shoes. What ensued was a Khan giannoni, thomas ericksen, giovanni kyle centeno, talaya orange chiffon evening dress hit parade of frou, flou and worn by Alek Wek. And Nigerian loads of bubblegum pink, each Fati Asibelua of Momo brought outfit worn with a pair of shiny fuchsia shoes. The show was divided into three acts — the beasts from Africa with short, Decade, Faux Reality and Future — and opened with Rachel Roy’s retro-glam-sequin sexy animal-print dresses in gray swimsuit and bedazzled trench. From there, there was splendor, as in Marchesa’s silk or cashmere knits. There cascading lavender gown, and sport, by way of Alexander Wang’s sparkly bodysuit were lots of terrific clothes here, and hot pink blazer. There was minimal — Calvin Klein’s single-sleeve white dress but it was only Grace Jones who, — and maxed-out — Bob Mackie’s feathered and fringed gown and headdress à la john aquino, antonov, pasha

just by walking down the runway, Cher. And then there were glamorous Barbie classics, such as Naeem Khan’s short, by brought the already show-weary sequined fit-and-flare number. But not a bit felt world- or economy-weary. This was a

crowd to its feet. feel-good fashion frenzy to remind us all that getting dressed is supposed to be fun. photos WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 13 WWD.COM Brooks Brothers’ Artistic Bent Macy’s Names 2009 Incubator Class Brooks Brothers continued to draw on its long- standing heritage for its fall collection. By Beth Wilson the season took inspiration from the palettes of a variety of paintings that helped update looks from the past. For instance, the despite plans to lay oFF soMe 7,000 eMployees, Macy’s inc. will Make good on its tattersalls and tartans of the collection harken back to the verti- commitment to provide work space for six fledgling designers through the chicago Fashion incubator cal lines and primary colors of a work from Mondrian. and John at Macy’s on state street. James audubon’s bird paintings give new meaning to the sports- the incubator, which launched last year as part of chicago Mayor richard daley’s effort to boost man’s theme. the city’s fashion industry, unveiled a new class of designers, attracting applicants from new york, rhode island and tennessee. that the incubator drew such a diverse group, including those looking to relocate to chicago, speaks to the need in the fashion industry for such supportive initiatives, said Melissa gamble, the city’s director of fashion arts and events. the 2009 designers in residence include ashley Zigmunt, who completed internships with Zac posen and peter som en route to creating her new line, Zamrie, and catherine Furio, a graduate of the rhode island school of design, both of whom will be moving to chicago. other participants include Jess audey, who designs cocktail dresses; cynthia ryba, who creates fluid silhouettes with her apparel; nora del Busto, who takes inspiration from architecture, and alonzo Jackson, whose urbanwear line, Fashion geek, has been worn by kanye west. as part of the incubator, the designers will have access to Macy’s buyers, planners and merchan- dise managers as well as office and work space provided by Macy’s which also covers operational costs such as utilities. last year’s group of six designers fine-tuned their businesses, with some advancing from capsule to full collections, launching web sites, gaining publicity, showing at chicago’s fashion week called Fashion Focus and growing their sales base. “the first class of designers in residence at the chicago Fashion incubator made significant strides in developing their talent and sharpening their business and marketing skills,” said Mayor daley. “By partnering with a major retailer like Macy’s, we’re providing local designers with the foundation and knowledge they need to thrive in the fashion industry.” Band of Outsiders in Production Deal With Pier By Marc Karimzadeh reach its full potential. at same time, pier was talking to stella about some younger brands they NEW YORK — Band of outsiders designer scott might license.” sternberg has struck a five-year production and sternberg’s fall Boy collection, which was distribution licensing deal with pier spa for his presented on sunday, will be manufactured by women’s line Boy by Band of outsiders. pier, which is owned by diesel’s renzo rosso, the move will allow sternberg to expand on and manufactures for the likes of Balenciaga, the product range, lower his price points and in- dries Van noten, givenchy, dior homme and For more, crease distribution, particularly in europe. azzedine alaïa, according to sternberg. see WWD.com. sternberg launched Boy in 2007, focusing sternberg is selling the Boy collection to 50 Looks from the fall collection. mainly on shirts and tailored pieces that were doors for spring, with plans to add some 20 doors photos by george chinsee george by photos handmade in Brooklyn by venerable Brooklyn for fall. the news will continue to sell the col- tailor Martin greenfield. lection in the u.s., and sternberg said the new a collegiate sensibility was also visible in the line, which intro- the designer became familiar with pier agreement with pier will help him step up the duced two new accessories pieces — a briefcase and duffle — in a through stella ishii, president of the news distribution network in europe. sternberg also vintage leather used for wilson footballs. in fact, the store is also re- showroom, which represents his line. said the new manufacturing will allow him to tailing a cobranded limited edition football in the same material. “at first, Boy was a bit of an experiment, but add more classifications such as dresses and deep saturated colors — mainly purple and navy — were a hall- off the bat, there was an audience and custom- knits to the collection; have four deliveries a mark of the line, and Brooks Bros. also stepped ahead with its all- er, stores were buying it and selling through,” year instead of two, and lower his price points. black evening story that included a bouclé double-breasted jacket sternberg said. “the way i conceived the col- previously, a blazer would retail for $1,800, but paired with a pencil skirt for women. lection, i was using my men’s resources to make sternberg expects it can now have a suggested cashmere, in coats, wraps and twinsets for women, was also a women’s clothes, but that wasn’t allowing it to retail price of $1,200. unifying statement in the line. in the Black Fleece collection, designed by thom Browne, the women’s wear has lightened up. “we’re softening the girl,” Browne said, noting there are “more skirts and dresses” offered this time. “the collection is a lot more feminine, from the shapes of the skirts De Beers Names Belkadi U.S. CEO to the looseness of the knits.” de Beers, the diaMond Jewelry network, increasing to 11 boutiques in men’s, the fabrics and details have evolved and include ticket company, has promoted chief operating across the country from five. in 2008, pockets on the jackets and tartans in different fabrics. “the men’s officer hamida Belkadi to chief executive stores opened in dallas, san Francisco, line builds upon itself every season instead of changing [dramati- officer of u.s. operations. costa Mesa, calif., and naples and Bal cally],” he said. the post had been vacant since alyce harbour, Fla., joining units in new york, one of the most striking pieces is a full-length beaver overcoat alston left in 2007. Belkadi, who be- Beverly hills, washington, las Vegas, for men that Browne said was inspired by a piece he found in the came chief operating officer in July waikiki and houston. archives. 2007, reports to worldwide ceo the company’s u.s. strategy for Brooks Bros. chief executive officer claudio del Vecchio re- guy leymarie. she began working 2009 is to bolster store sales by pro- ported the newly opened Black Fleece store on Bleecker street for de Beers in 2005 as vice presi- moting bridal product, special collec- has started off strong. “it’s a novelty, so we can’t compare it to any dent of sales and marketing, and tions and classic diamond jewelry. other opening,” he said, “but it’s doing better than planned so far. previously worked at cartier for “we opened five stores last year,” and we’re only selling full price.” additionally, the women’s wear is 18 years. Belkadi said. “we have to solidify doing better than it has traditionally done in Brooks Bros. stores. Belkadi spearheaded the Hamida Belkadi those stores and get them going.” — Jean E. Palmieri growth of the de Beers store — Sophia Chabbott

eYe on relaxation

WWD’S neWeSt aDVertiSinG oPPortUnitY 14 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 t

Calvin Klein Collection Calvin Klein Collection t

CalvinIn Klein men’sAmerica made a strong return to New York — and the brand’s minimalist roots — as designers focused on distinctive details and sharp tailoring.

Calvin Klein Collection: Welcome home, Calvin Klein. It can hardly be a coincidence that Italo Zucchelli’s first collection to be shown in Calvin Klein’s hometown stayed truer to the brand’s identity than any other of the creative director’s previous efforts. The show opened with several similar looks — slim gray suits with monochrome furnishings — and continued with variations on the themes of sharp tailoring and mélange fabrics. Cleverly set to Leonard Bernstein’s darting score of “West Side Story” (a knowing wink to the show’s location), the repetition delivered cinematic intrigue. By showing so many ties with suits, Calvin Klein did far more for the neckwear industry than any other brand this season. (Ironically, its parent company is retreating from the neckwear manufacturing business.) Commercial viability? Minimalism? Athletically toned physicality? Check, check and check. But the collection also succeeded in advancing Zucchelli’s unique body of experimentation. He exercised control over his urge to go all-in with industrial fabrics and narrowed his focus to one technique — normally used to make bicycle-seat padding — of bonding fabric to molded foam. Despite the padding, the silhouettes remained surprisingly streamlined. In fact, the foam was most appealing when it was applied most generously — that is, in a puffy coat that For all resembled reticulated armor thanks to the spacing of the molded surfaces. collections’ Zucchelli added subtle industrial flavor to tailored outerwear by applying angular hardware including hook closures and flat, cylindrical rivets. Powdery complete run leather bombers and shearling half-zip hoodies rounded out the outstanding of show, see outerwear offering. WWD.com The designer showed his previous 11 collections in Milan. The change of venue is supposedly temporary, but it suited him so well that he should strongly consider keeping it here.

Richard Chai: With his first men’s show, Richard Chai established a distinctive handwriting. Boiled wools and muted plaids in washed cotton had an outdoorsy flavor, but Chai’s fresh blend of sharp tailoring and rugged style was equally perfect for city or country. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 15 WWD.COM

Robert Patrik Geller Ervell

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Reverse seams subtly highlighted the tailoring, and Patrik Ervell: Patrik Ervell’s show opened with a the designer’s placement of zippers as embellishment reinvention of the classic shearling-lined jean throughout the collection was masterfully controlled. jacket in unwashed pale denim. The designer His sense of volume and proportion made every model branched into ballistic nylon shoes (a Common look elongated and powerful. The utilitarian cut of Projects collaboration) and launched knitwear the trousers, with a slightly dropped crotch, also felt made from alpaca, deeming cashmere too common. refreshingly masculine, especially when tucked into He made a sensibly commercial showing of his a heavy boot. Textured cashmere cardigans and long bestsellers — hooded windbreakers and oversized ne johns proved Chai’s background in knitwear. But above blazers with slim pants — that fell a bit short on cco anna I all, he proved that fashion sense and manliness can go novelty. But under the economic circumstances, hand in hand. the conservative approach may be best. s ma ho

Robert Geller: Flush with prize money from GQ and Shipley & Halmos: Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos D T AN

the CFDA, Robert Geller staged an elegant show that quoted Ayn Rand in their show invitation, and ni gave full expression to his vision of rogue aristocracy. the mother of objectivism would surely have been o Geller found inspiration in Vienna at the turn of the impressed with the resolutely modern collection the last century. Boning up on history is a fine thing, duo created for fall — a darker, sleeker vision for the Giann vanni

but a fashion collection is better served if it’s styled brand than seasons past. Models zigzagged through o for the present day. Costumey overaccessorizing slender columns of an industrial loft space, carefully ee, Gi was an unfortunate distraction from the collection’s tracing a painted white line on the floor. The men were s in strengths: tailored outerwear, dramatic knitwear sheathed in slim black turtlenecks with sleeves that h e C and regal colors. Geller’s coats and jackets have ended in fingerless gloves, over which they wore crisply g r always featured distinctive details, and this season tailored suits — some in shimmery silk fabrics — or o he set the buttons of officer jackets on an S shape, abbreviated peacoats. Ge v, o following the curves of the overlapping front panels. Women donned black bodysuits, layered beneath n to n

That asymmetry spilled into button-front shirts as well-cut, structured dresses in wool or satin, many A a

well. Dip-dyed shirts called extra attention to the accented with zippers or TV-static prints. Jewelry by sh palette of rose, purple and teal. Geller showed more Philip Crangi and futuristic eyewear by Mykita finished Pa knitwear than ever before, extravagantly layering the off the precisely styled looks. “It’s a study in the grandly proportioned pieces. Overall he continues to aesthetics of self-empowered, determined individuals,” show great promise. said Halmos. “They walk the line and never veer.” PHOTOS BY 16 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009

FASHION SCOOPS FOUR SCORE: Kellie Pickler, Alison Brie, Jennifer Love Hewitt VALENTINE’S DINNER WITH ASHLEY DUPRE: Being fired byYigal and Brittany Snow were the fearsome foursome at Lela Rose’s Azrouël for allowing America’s most notorious ex-call girl to sit Sunday morning show. Having just released her new single, front-row at his show didn’t deter Kelly Cutrone from continuing “The Best Days of Your Life,” the 22-year-old Pickler and her Svengali-like relationship with Ashley Dupré. The former Taylor Swift kick off their Fearless tour this spring. Brie of “Mad Emperor’s Club VIP escort hit the Davidelfin show after the Men” had to do some “guerrilla shooting in the middle of the Azrouël brouhaha on Friday, and then the Buckler men’s wear California desert” with Olympia Dukakis and Haley Joel Osment presentation on Saturday — after which Cutrone spontaneously for the forthcoming flick “Montana Amazon.” But the 77-year- invited WWD to a Valentine’s Day dinner with Dupré. Over pasta old Dukakis really bowled her over, doing all her own stunts. and salmon at L’Ulivo in the West Village, Dupré opened up Now that Snow’s latest film, “The Vicious Kind,” is good to go, about her hoped-for music career, her love of fashion and how she is ready to appear in “Blackwater Transit” with Laurence she’s dealt with moving on from the Eliot Spitzer scandal. “It’s Fishburne. “The Ghost Whisperer” star Hewitt is gunning for pop-rock, it’s going to be deep, not bubblegum. It’s definitely a a fifth season pick-up, but is reveling in the fashion scene for personal record,” said Dupré, 23, of the album she is recording. now. Rose’s front row was her seventh in less than 24 hours. She’s managed to land some serious producers in Peter Zizzo She said, “It is such a different glamour [than Hollywood.] It is (who has worked with Avril Lavigne and Celine Dion) and Rob so high energy. I am sort of addicted already.” Fusari (who has worked with Jessica Simpson and Lady Gaga). But don’t expect any Spitzer-related songs. “I think I’ll stay away STARS ALIGNED: Celebrity wattage was high for the homecoming from that, it would be pretty tacky,” said Dupré, who is petite, of the Calvin Klein men’s collection, with Kanye West, Jared gregarious and blessed with a flawless complexion. “I don’t want Leto, Chace Crawford and Patrick Wilson sharing a bench. West, to sing about it and I don’t think anyone wants to listen to it.” who was a fixture at the Paris men’s shows, said the main Dupré, who was pursuing a music career prior to her escort difference between New York and European fashion weeks days, released several songs online in the aftermath of the Spitzer was the ability to sleep in his own bed. “I’m just here to see affair, but this first full album should drop in January 2010. Apart Kanye,” said Leto, giving his new friend some dap. Leto’s from Cutrone in her advisory role, overseeing Dupré’s career is current projects are a new record, a movie and a $30 million David Kokakis, an attorney at The Foundry Media Group. lawsuit against Virgin Records. “It’s about fairness and what’s Kellie Pickler, Alison Dupré is also working on an autobiographical book and she right,” he said. Crawford, who had the day off from taping Brie, Jennifer Love is in negotiations now with several publishers. She passed on “Gossip Girl,” pleaded ignorance about fashion even though Hewitt and Brittany penning a lucrative tell-all immediately following the Spitzer the show is so stylish. “The fashion on the show is really for Snow at Lela Rose. scandal, but would now like to write a cautionary tale for young women,” he said. MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY women who are facing life challenges. “I’ll discuss a few things about the escort business, but I’m not going to use any names or include any graphic details. That’s not the kind of person I am. And I don’t want to jeopardize people giving my music a chance.” Following dinner, Cutrone took Dupré to see a top editor at an avant-garde fashion magazine, who immediately expressed an interest in shooting her this week for an upcoming issue. The editor produced a digital camera and snapped a series of test shots on the spot, with Dupré vamping like a pro in her trim black blazer, black jodhpurs and stiletto boots. “I’ve always had a deep interest in fashion,” she noted. “I used to be a big Yigal Azrouël fan, but not anymore.” On that contentious matter, Cutrone said she had not eye on Hot SPotS invited Dupré to the Azrouël show, but did not want to make her leave when she showed up. “We’re all hookers in one way or another,” she said defensively of Dupré’s past. “It’s all a matter of perception. Yigal is terminating us, and that’s fair. I wish him every success.”

INSIDE THE BAND: Having successfully navigated the European collections in seasons past, Kanye West took in his very first informal presentation Saturday afternoon at Scott Sternberg’s Band of Outsiders. Low-key and smiling, West, who only met Sternberg last week, warmly greeted the designer in a lower Broadway loft. “I love his stuff,” said West, who admitted to cleaning out Barneys New York of its stock before seeking out Sternberg directly. As for his plans for the rest of the week, “I’m eye on beauty Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. not sure yet, I just got in.” Meanwhile, Jason Wu waited patiently to meet and congratulate Sternberg. Stylist Tina Chai, who works with both designers, made the introduction. “I’m buying everything,” Wu said. “I have a hard time finding my size, but I buy everything I can from Barneys.” Maybe he’ll bump into Kanye there?

Kanye West WWDeyeSCOOP

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3423_WWD_WeekendScoop_HAD_JR_021609.indd 1-2 2/11/09 10:38:53 AM WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 17 WWD.COM

FROM DIANE TO DIANA: Diana Ross made a fashion week SCHOOL DAYS: If one goes by the casting at Friday evening’s Annie Leibovitz (left) had appearance to support Diane von Furstenberg, her confidante since show highlighting its graduate students’ collections, it seems company at the Barbie show. the Studio 54 days. Ross took her seat in the front row right next the Academy of Art is aiming to be taken seriously by New to DVF’s husband, Barry Diller, and von Furstenberg paid homage York’s fashion crowd. Karlie Kloss, Chanel Iman, Edythe Hughes to her friend by blasting “Upside Down” over the speakers as she and Anja Rubik hoofed it for the school, drawing cheers from took her finale spin — as Ross leaped to her feet and gave the a student-heavy crowd. But about the clothes: A collaboration designer a standing ovation. That’s what friends are for, after all. among San Francisco’s Britex Fabrics and 15 students yielded several strong and voluminous looks, notably a mohair coat FOR FASHION’S SAKE: The front row at Hervé Léger usually boasts and wool crepe dress; elsewhere, Heather Howard and Cat Janky a lineup of comely starlets outfitted in the brand’s saucy bandage worked whimsical prints — mossy-green trees, pale faces — onto dresses, and this season’s show, held at the Promenade on shirtdresses, and their textured, burnout print peacoat showed Sunday afternoon, was no exception. Lucy Liu, January Jones, technical savvy. The best was saved for last, though — a series of Sophia Bush, Joy Bryant and Lily Collins, each sporting one of the terrific, fluid silk dresses and printed wool coats byEmily Melville house’s signature skintight sheaths, were on hand to pose for and Ivanka Georgieva, whose nine looks in putty and cream hues photo ops and take in the runway presentation. “The best thing looked entirely appropriate on those hot steppers. about these dresses is, no matter what your figure, they look PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY great on,” gushed Liu, who was attending the show for the first STAR APPEAL: At the DKNY show on Sunday, the photographers PLASTIC FANTASTIC: Barbie fans galore fought over seats in time. And she was fully comfortable in her clingy black number, went into a frenzy over Hilary Duff, clad in a tailored red dress order to catch a glimpse of the doll’s 50th-anniversary runway despite the fact that it was Sunday brunch time. “It doesn’t feel from the DKNY fall collection. “It scares me a little,” Duff show in the tents on Saturday afternoon — Rachel Roy, Diane like 2 p.m., it feels like it’s time to go out,” she said. said of the frenzy, taking her seat in the DKNY front row. “I von Furstenberg, Heidi Klum, Simon Doonan, Jonathan Adler, Annie Jones, for her part, admitted to a bit of hesitation about the am always worried I might trip over and fall into someone.” Leibovitz and Peter Som were just a few of the familiar faces whole thing. “It seemed a little weird when I got out of bed this The actress and singer is designing a new line for DKNY Jeans in the front row who turned out to see the plastic fashion icon morning and pulled my body into this tight dress,” said the called Femme for DKNY Jeans, but she had no plans to make come to life. Kimora Lee Simmons was there with boyfriend “Mad Men” actress. “But it’s all for fashion.” a spin on the DKNY runway. “I am only 5 foot 2,” she said, Djimon Hounsou, who had his arms full with two limited edition admitting she was a “wreck” before she went down the runway Barbie dolls for Simmons’ daughters, Ming Lee and Aoki Lee, LOVEBIRDS: Ben Harper and Laura Dern hit the Loden Dager at the Heart Truth Red Dress show on Friday. “I was so nervous, who walked in the finale. Simmons said she has been prepping show Saturday before a Valentine’s Day dinner. “We’ve been but then you walk off the runway and you think, ‘This was so for her own show, which will be later in the week, but is taking exchanging gifts all day,” said a smitten Harper — which much fun,’” she said. Don’t expect to see Duff at any other it easy since she’s due with her third baby, a boy, in just 12 caused Dern to pull back her hair to show off a pair of dangly shows this fashion week. “My mom came to New York with me, weeks. “I’m feeling good,” she said, showing off her bump. jeweled earrings. so it’s a girl trip,” she said.

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Michael Stipe PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY

SHINY HAPPY METALS: Michael Stipe has become a regular at his friend Patrik Ervell’s runway shows, but he doesn’t wear the label. “I’m a 49-year-old man. I don’t think that would be appropriate,” he said. The R.E.M. front man (now sporting a full beard) has been sculpting since the band finished a long tour, he said. Last year he exhibited his bronze sculptures at Rogan’s store, and eye on beauty Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. now he’s working with silver. WHERE IS FRANCIS? Last season, Christian Francis Roth returned to the fashion week schedule with the Francis by Christian Francis Roth collection, but the designer is missing from this season’s schedule. The reason? His financial backer, the Hong Kong and Shenzhen, China, garment manufacturer Gold Palace Corp., decided not to go forward with their support. “We had a disagreement about where to develop samples, and another regarding overall operating capital, but I suspect it had mostly WWDeyeSCOOP to do with the state of the economy,” Roth explained. “Thankfully, I had the right product at the right price and my bookings and distribution were solid,” he added. Roth still owns 100 percent of the company eye on DInInG and plans to continue his line, which was picked up for spring by Bergdorf Goodman, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Holt Renfrew, Macy’s and about 35 Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in small specialty stores. “I’ve been self-financing the line since my backers left, which has been challenging front of the industry’s power players — influential, affluent to say the least, but now that spring is shipping, my receivables will allow me to carefully move forward until I find the right investor,” Roth said. He will start consumers — as they plan their weekend. previewing the fall collection to select press and retailers on Feb. 23, and hopes to do a presentation next month. “It’s my plan to be back on the fashion week calendar in September for spring 2010, either with a show or Coming this spring presentation,” Roth said. eye on SHoPPInG BLACK IS BACK: Fashion show invites can often offer a glimpse into the designer’s mood of the moment, and this season, there seems to be a surplus of all-black ones — from Baby Phat to Alexander Wang, Y-3, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste, Maz Azria, Iodice and Tadashi Shoji. Is it a coincidence or a statement on the current doom and gloom in fashion? The jury is out. “You can’t write the seat information on them,” said Steven Kolb, executive Want to be a part of the action? director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. adding the sea of black tickets was probably less fashion commentary and more fashionable coincidence. “When Michael Kors [whose invite is always camel] goes black, then I will start to worry,” he said.

3423_WWD_WeekendScoop_HAD_JR_021609.indd 1-2 2/11/09 10:38:53 AM 18 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009

Accessories Report Indie Brands Sharpen Their Prices and Designs By Caroline Tell INDEPENDENT JEWELRY DESIGNERS ARE DISCOVERING new modes of survival. Philip Crangi Unlike moneyed luxury houses or mass costume brands, small- earrings. er fashion jewelry fi rms that bridge the gap between fi ne and cos- tume are striving to hold their own in a time of crisis. With guid- ance from retailers, they are focused on keeping prices modest and designs spectacular. “We should all be more price conscious from the very beginning of putting things together, it’s all about making pieces more affordable,” said Janis Savitt, designer of the fl edgling line Janis by Janis Savitt, which wholesales for $100 to $700. “If there’s any way I can get the same quality and same look across but be more affordable, I’m going to try to do that, more so now than ever. I am my own customer. I un- derstand people want to take the subway now instead of taxis.” Savitt said she hasn’t seen any resistance from her accounts, which include Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus Direct, but has been working with them to deliver price-friendly alternatives to her signature pieces. “I’m showing my buyers what I have and if it works, it works, A cuff by but people are price conscious and instead of using a stone that’s Bing Bang. $100, it will be $10, but that same look can be had with a $10 stone,” Savitt said. “I’m a little company and I have to do these things.” For its lower-priced line Giles & Brother, jewelry fi rm Philip Crangi created a brass collection instead of silver, attributing the shift in part to the economy. Chief executive offi cer Courtney Crangi said after bringing her sales team in-house last year, she has grown increasingly sensitive to her buyers. “Ironically, we started to shift to brass within the last year and a half,” Crangi said. “Philip has been focused on brass, he loves it as a material, which is signifi cantly less expensive than silver, so those price points are lower. It feels very good from a design standpoint. It’s not a sacrifi ce or a trade-off. It was a very deliberate decision.” Anna Sheffi eld, designer of Bing Bang Jewelry and her high-end signature collection, has also begun dipping into mixed metals. She said her retail accounts, specifi cally Barneys New York, have been increasingly helpful in offering direction during the recession. “It’s a partnership and you’re in it together,” Sheffi eld said. A necklace by “The more feedback and support you have as a brand, the more Subversive Jewelry. apt you are to be successful with new materials and styles. Our

buyers are our information centers, they bridge the gap between us and our consumer.” Janet Goldman, founder and chairman of Fragments showroom, has been advising her designers to work in lower-priced metals. She cited Miguel Ases as one of her top sellers, whose gold-fi lled ear- rings retail at around $250. “It’s refreshing for the buyer. I think we have to look at what our opportunities are and our liabilities,” said Goldman, who also oper- ates two Fragments stores in New York. “We’re looking at our de- signers and seeing if they can be innovative and offer something different and fresh at a great price. Price is just so important.” Other retailers are fi nding the new “sweet spot” price to be about $100 less than it used to be, hovering in the $200 to $300 range, and are grateful to those designers who are willing to lower their whole- sale prices. “We’re focused on restocking our middle range at under $400. We saw at Christmas that was where people were looking, not ter- ribly higher than that,” said Tara Silberberg, owner of The Clay Pot in Brooklyn, which houses jewelry by Alexis Bittar, Me & Ro and Temple St. Clair. “It’s a very important place for us to be right now, it’s cheap and cheerful and recession-proof.” Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel, said the store is working closely with designers and is looking for pieces that are timeless and not necessarily “of the moment.” “I think the days of the smoke and mirrors are gone, people aren’t driven to buy because a designer has received amazing edi- torial press,” Watson said. “They want value now, pieces that are timeless and modern but not ‘must haves.’” Designers are also working hard to expand into different geo- graphic markets, as well as atypical doors, such as design stores or museum gift shops. Alexis Bittar has seen his pieces fare well at the Conran Shop, a store known more for innovative furniture than ac- Fll 2009 cessories. Bittar and designer Kara Ross have also entered a num- imited diti oectin ber of new accounts that were once exclusively fi ne jewelry driven. “We’ve opened a few accounts with our less-expensive line in traditional jewelry stores,” said Ross. “I guess they’re realizing that even if they can get product from their diamond suppliers — big large diamond houses that can afford to give goods on memo — they’re still not selling those pieces and it doesn’t help anyone. So they’re keeping stock smaller and tighter and branching into less expensive goods where they can sell more volume.” Independent jewelry designers are also using fashion week col- laborations as a way to get their pieces in the public eye, at little or no cost. Sheffi eld is putting Bing Bang pieces on the Vena Cava runway, while Ross is partnering with Christian Cota. Bittar is doing shows in Paris and London, as well as Barbie’s 50th anniversary event in New York. Savitt, a veteran of such show collaborations, is supplying Ralph Lauren with colorful stones for his Collection, and Crangi is working with designer Jason Wu. “It’s an unverifi ed market right now, the smart thing to do is con- solidate expenditures and focus on marketing, marketing, market- ing,” said Justin Giunta, designer at Subversive Jewelry, which will accessorize looks at J.Mendel, Rachel Roy and Trovata. “It’s all about fi nding new stores, new locations and new ways to get out there.” WWD, monDay, february 16, 2009 19 WWD.COM Accessories Report Fine Jewelers Commit to Bridal Segment By Sophia Chabbott and Samantha Conti it’s not simply about selling jewelry either. established brands like harry Winston have started to offer seminars in its Fifth avenue flag- With impulse purchasing virtually gone, jeWelers ship on how to buy a diamond, followed by a presentation of the are homing in on a segment that is driven by one of life’s tradi- brand’s engagement rings, and late january marked the launch of a tions — the bridal market. Web site called ringtutor.com that provides diamond evaluation and jewelry brands large and small are focusing on engagement recommendation service geared toward the wedding industry. the ring and wedding band collections in a bid to gain brand aware- Tiffany & Co.’s site was created by David Fortunoff, a former principal of Fortunoff, ness and attract new, mostly young clientele. Bezet ring. the bankrupt jewelry and home goods retailer. there are 2.3 million american weddings each year and 1.9 mil- independent jeweler penny preville has introduced her first engage- lion engagement rings are sold at an average price of $4,435, according ment ring collection. the six-style line incorporates preville’s signature to the american Wedding study. delicate and romantic look with filigree work and pavé diamond touches. andrew jassin, managing director of jassin & o’rourke group, a new york indus- “there are very few women doing bridal collections,” said preville, who was in- try consulting firm noted that the bridal industry is a dependable one. spired to go into the category after designing an engagement ring for her now daugh- “engagement jewelry is a constant in the jewelry industry,” jassin said. “retailers like ter-in-law a few years back. “my concept is that each ring would have a love story and cartier and tiffany have gone out full-court press to advertise in locations like never be- each would mean something.” fore to raise awareness to show that you can buy a two-carat stone or a 10-carat stone.” preville, who plans to add a bridal component to her advertising campaign as well, tiffany & co. has a new engagement ring style called tiffany Bezet. the modern ring hopes her brand will garner a new following of clients. features either a heart, pear, princess, radiant-round or princess-cut diamond bezel-set “there will always be brides and they want something beautiful,” she said. “i think in a platinum band with no decoration. the austere look is a departure from tiffany’s it’s a really great time to launch [the collection].” other styles, such as the lucida, legacy or the classic, six-prong setting. the ring will be available in tiffany stores this may. jon King, executive vice pres- ident of tiffany & co., said the firm’s bridal business is healthy. “people will trade down as far as flowers or food, but not with their engagement ring,” he said. “people realize [a dia- mond] is an investment.” De Beers, the diamond jewelry firm, is trying to make marriage a little more economical. the brand has launched a collection of dia- mond engagement rings with a starting price of $1,450. the Forever ring collection bears the De Beers quality guar- antee, the diamonds are brand- ed with a microscopic De Beers marque and recorded in the De Beers diamond registry. the di- amonds range in size from 0.30 to 0.70 carats and a moderate range of color and clarity. guy leymarie, chief execu- tive officer of De Beers, said love appears to be untouched by the credit crunch. he noted there was a 45 percent increase in sales of engagement rings in December at the company and a 50 percent increase over the past 12 months. “a very wide selection en- sures we have something for ev- eryone,” he said. leymarie said men have become more flexible in their spending, no longer sticking to the three months’ salary rule. “the decision is increasingly made by the couple together,” he said. also, in honor of Brides maga- zine’s 75th anniversary, De Beers will introduce another diamond engagement ring design called the Duo. the ring’s design fea- tures a platinum band with an attached wedding band for a two-in-one look. the rings are in the windows at De Beers’ Fifth avenue flagship in manhattan. there will also be a sweepstakes to give away an $18,000 ring that will be featured in the march- april issue of Brides. $161 WE INVITE YOU TO CONTACT US TO LEARN HOW TO BECOME AN AUTHORIZED LONGCHAMP DISTRIBUTOR. LONGCHAMP USA billion 435A US HIGHWAY 130 NORTH,YARDVILLE, NJ 08620 TEL: 609.581.5555, FAX: 609.581.5559 WWW.LONGCHAMP.COM The volume of the U.S. wedding industry.

Source: AmericAn Wedding Study. 2x5 (left)

20 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Emporio Armani Underwear Expands in U.S. A bra and A stretch A lace baby panty set from Modal V-neck doll from the Bouquet top and trunks. the Gardenia group. group.

A stretch cotton boxer and crewneck top from Emporio Armani Underwear.

By Karyn Monget woven cotton, jersey and stretch modal to a unique milk first year, according to industry estimates. fiber composition.” The women’s intimates line was launched for spring The emporio ArmAni UnderweAr brAnd for regarding the opportunity for the designer’s under- and has since doubled its assortments of bras and coor- men and women is taking its cue from the line’s ready- wear for men in the U.S., hooks said, “we have found dinating undies for fall-winter 2009-2010 that combine to-wear as it enters the U.S. market. that emporio Armani underwear appeals to everyone. fashion, fit, quality and function. inspired by flowers, The rtw influence is especially strong in the men’s most interesting to note is that we have gained a signifi- new groups are orchidea, a mesh offering that includes collection that was launched in europe in 1982 and in- cant share of the young men’s market, the 18- to 25-year- a fitted camisole; Lilium, a matte-and-shine micro group troduced in the U.S. early last year, said John hooks, old consumer. historically, emporio Armani apparel has that features a techno pattern and lace trim; bouquet, deputy managing director of Giorgio Armani SpA. appealed to a 25- to 45-year-old audience. it’s our goal to which focuses on a shadow stripe micro jacquard pat- “The line is designed as an extension and heavily in- capture and maintain this younger audience and invite tern with lace trim and offers a cami and a chemise, and fluenced by elements in the ready-to-wear collection,” them in to a larger aspect of emporio Armani apparel.” fiordaliso, an embroidered tulle selection that includes hooks said. “Green was a prominent color displayed A wholesale sales projection was not available for the a slip. in addition to basic colors, the palette includes a and exhibited in the emporio Armani runway show in men’s line the first full year, but hooks said, “distribution pale birch green, lilac, sage green, orange red, violet, milan, and shown and sampled throughout the emporio is in emporio Armani stores and department stores with aluminum and aqua. Armani Underwear collection. new fabrics include poly- expansion into specialty stores in key markets. we see The women’s intimates has also expanded the color amide, microfiber, stretch modal and wovens. emporio emporio Armani Underwear [for men] gaining a 5 per- range and additional daywear pieces in several groups Armani Underwear has also expanded into loungewear cent share of the total department store channel.” introduced this spring, which include the Camelia, for fall-winter ’09, featuring body-conscious, draped sil- Sales for the combined men’s and women’s lines Gardenia and Tulipano groups, as well as logoed, round- houettes in a combination of fabrics from 100 percent could generate revenues in excess of $20 million in the neck T-shirts and bottoms. Femmys Honor Industry Execs deSpiTe The down eConomy And An UnCerTAin mArkeT week, 500 retail and industry executives partied at the annual femmy Awards on feb. 3 at Cipriani at 42nd Street in new york. hosted by melissa rivers and staged by The Underfashion Club, the cocktail and dinner gala is held to honor executives who have contributed their support to the innerwear industry. The event also raises funds for scholarships for lin- gerie design students at the fashion institute of Technology. Accepting awards on behalf of their companies were pete nordstrom, ex- ecutive vice president and vice president of merchandising at nordstrom inc.; Jockey international inc.’s president and chief executive officer ed emma, and mahesh Amalean of mas holdings. Sara blakely, founder of Spanx inc., picked up the innovation Award, and Ann Pete deal, ceo of fashion forms inc., was bestowed the Lifetime Achievement Award. Nordstrom As nordstrom accepted his award, he reminisced over his first encounter with the family store’s linge- rie department. “i was a store manager in the late eighties and i re- member very clearly advice from my boss who was not my dad, ‘if you’ve got to go into the lingerie department, make sure you’re specific and focused, and get out. otherwise, people will think you’re a pervert,’” he said. rivers interjected, “men and lingerie do have a very interesting relationship. Some buy for girlfriends, Ed Emma, Mahesh wives and boyfriends. The truth of the matter is it all Amalean and Ann Deal. looks the same bundled up at the bottom of the bed.” deal remembered her first job as a buyer of intimates at rich’s in Atlanta in the early eighties. “i was on the selling floor and a man came in looking for a nice nightgown for his wife for Christmas,” she said. “So i took him to what i thought were the most beautiful satin gowns in the department and the most expensive. he Melissa bought one, and i thought he’s going to have a nice Christmas. but the next day, Rivers his wife came in looking for me and she was furious. She wanted to know who and Sarah the woman was who was trying to give her a message and sold her husband a Blakely burial shroud. burial shrouds are a Southern tradition.” — K.M. ERICKSEN KYLE BY PHOTOS WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 21 WWD.COM M&A Outlook for 2009: Distressed and Small Deals Abound Continued from page one with the purchase. Still, he noted, “the economy factors eyeing Hartmarx Corp. and eager to buy a knit-shirt- The bankrupt Hartmarx, into all decisions today.” blouse brand. haberdasher to President Fashionology co-founder William Sweedler said the • Phillips-Van Heusen Corp., owner of Calvin Klein Obama, is garnering company receives several calls a day from companies and other brands. interest from buyers. looking for investors, and Fashionology is in talks to buy • Fashionology LLC, which last year bought Ellen Tracy. a profitable men’s brand and a profitable accessories • Rafaella Group, owned by Cerberus Capital. brand, being cautious about distressed firms. • Better knitwear firm Ava. “Investing in fashion can be a dangerous business,” And there are plenty of companies looking for buyers said Sweedler. “For the first time, I’m questioning free or investors, including Italy’s IT Holding for its Ittierre [not paying for the brand, just assuming ongoing costs] operation and perhaps some of its other brands, which — which is what a lot of companies are going for right include Malo, Exte and Gianfranco Ferré; Lambertson now. We’re not in deal mode — we’re in opportunistic Truex, which Samsonite is selling; Fortunoff, which mode — but our primary focus has to be on operating is in Chapter 11 and might be headed toward liquida- our existing business.” tion; Peter Som; Brioni; de Grisogono; Mariella Burani Sweedler added the company is looking for brands Fashion Group and Mosaic Fashions, a subsidiary of the with tangible licensing potential to guarantee con- bankrupt Baugur Group that owns such U.K. chains as tracted income, as well as diversified retail partner- Karen Millen, Oasis, Coast and Warehouse. ships to mitigate the risk of any particular store going Frederick Schmitt, managing director of Sage Group out of business. LLC, said that while both private equity and strategic But while there still might be deals done in 2009 de- buyers are worried about retail conditions and limited spite the recession, the year follows a dismal 12 months in their liquidity, two types of companies continue to be for M&A activity overall. attractive investment candidates this year. If the pace from September to January continues The first, he said, are companies that are still doing through the rest of 2009 — which is what M&A leaders well even in the economic downturn. The second is a predict, based on both credit access and the general

company in trouble that “needs to do a transaction to es gloom in retail these days — this year may rival 2002’s raise capital or fix their capital structure.” ag 23 deals for the fewest public ones done in the last de- m The problem with the first type is that anyone who I cade, according to Factset Mergerstat LLC. can is holding off on selling. Tory Burch, which sourc- “It was a very tough year for M&A because 2008 was es said continues to discuss the sale of a stake in the probably one of the toughest years in memory for retail ool/Getty P performance,” said Cooper of Peter J. Solomon, adding their restructuring group’s work on the distressed mar- Rivkin-

Hudson Jeans has been approached a ket is paying the bills that M&A had formerly. “And 2009

by numerous potential bidders. nd a has started off the same way 2008 ended.” There were 40 public arena deals within the sector in 2008, down 31 percent from 58 deals in 2007, which was down 22 percent since 2006’s record 71 deals. Am photo by Moreover, the total value of deals fell 56 percent to $2.4 billion in 2008 from $5.4 billion in 2007, according to cy looking to be saved Factset Mergerstat. through investment But not all of 2008 was a bust for industry M&A activ- — as has already hap- ity. The first eight months of the year saw 35 deals. The $2.4 billion pened this year for suit slowdown came between September and November, maker Hartmarx Corp. which saw only two deals, while December picked back Total value of M&A deals in 2008. Numerous companies up with three. (SOURCE: Factset Mergerstat.) have expressed interest, So far in 2009, two relatively small public deals have including Bagir. taken place: The cash-rich Bagir • On Jan. 19, Sportsclick Inc., a Canadian wholesaler is potentially interested in making several acquisitions of licensed sports goods, acquired Southprint Inc., a this year. In addition to eyeing the multibranded suit Martinsville, Va.-based wholesaler of licensed NASCAR maker, Bagir would like to buy a knit-shirting-blouse apparel, for $2.4 million. Southprint had revenues of $15 company to help in its expansion beyond suits to tops, million in 2007. according to company executives. • On Jan. 21, Technology Resources Inc. bought “It’s like antique shopping,” said Tim Danser, the Kona, Hawaii-based Shaka Shoes Inc. for Bagir vice president of marketing. “If you go in about $4 million, according to Factset Mergerstat, looking for one specific thing, you’ll overpay. We’re and the parent company has adopted its new out looking for good deals on good companies.” acquisition’s name. Bagir isn’t the only manufacturer looking to Michael Dart, a principal at Kurt Salmon expand its business in these contracting times Associates and head of its private equity and through a well-priced acquisition. strategy practice, said deals were being fund- “Companies have lost volume and are ed by putting down at least double the equity looking to recover it through an acquisi- capital, versus debt capital, than required tion when they have a strong balance in the boom days of yore. With companies sheet,” said Jack Hendler, Net Worth needing to put down 30 to 40 percent eq- Solutions Inc. president. “As the chan- uity, versus 15 to 20 percent previously, nels of distribution are shrinking, where the size of deals that can be done is lim- do we put the product? We try to help ited. Dart said he expected middle mar- pair them with a company that has dis- ket deals of $20 million to $300 million in tribution that they don’t.” enterprise value. For example, he said a $500 mil- “Whatever deal you put in place lion vendor is looking to buy a com- [has to be able to allow the company For more on pany that has distribution at Kohl’s. to] survive continued negative comps M&A, see Another trend he foresees is retailers for a continued time,” Dart said. WWD.com. and vendors linking up for a vendor’s “Companies are maintaining all of brand to step in as the retailer’s pri- their capital to maintain liquidity. vate label, as stores seek higher mar- They are gaining on their weaker gins and find their credit restricted. competitors rather than buying them. company with several interested parties, is a notable For example, he said a 50-door chain But for contrarian investors with a exception. But sources doubt whether a price will be based out of Boston is looking for a ca- reasonable amount of capital and a agreed upon, because Burch doesn’t require immedi- sual women’s wear resource. long holding period, this could be a ate outside investment. Kellwood has been searching for ac- great opportunity to make great long- “Who wants to sell at what they perceive to be at his- quisitions for months, particularly a denim term returns.” torical lows?” said Marc Cooper, managing director and company to create a competency in that cat- And while elective deals may have slowed partner at Peter J. Solomon Co. “This is a terrible time egory that its other brands could leverage. due to increased caution, distressed deals have to be thinking about the sales process.” At the same time Kellwood explores selling increased, according to M&A sources. In these Hudson Jeans, a West Coast denim company that does Hollywould, the Sun Capital Partners-owned cases, both size and swiftness are essential. Those more than $60 million in volume, has been approached firm is said to be eyeing a mainstream-priced deals can happen for as little as free — assuming by numerous potential bidders, including Fireman West Coast denim company, as well as Joe’s the cost of running the brand going forward — up Capital Partners, but the firm is willing to wait for the Jeans Inc., which has been trading for about to a small multiple, said sources. They also must be right price and partner, according to Hudson president 30 cents a share and has about 60 million out- fast, before the retail situation worsens. and chief executive officer Peter Kim. Fireman Capital standing shares. Kellwood declined to com- “There are people looking for value transac- declined comment. ment on which companies it is in talks with. tions. A lot of larger — $150 million and up, gen- “Obviously, for the right price, anything is for sale,” Other companies are said to be interested in erally speaking — privately held businesses with Kim said. “But our business is good — we’re actually Joe’s, as well. equity know that if they can add some good top line on track to grow this year — and we don’t need to sell if A spokesman for Phillips-Van Heusen said to their business [by buying a $30 million to $70 mil- there’s not a substantial opportunity.” the company was still eyeing strategic acqui- lion business], it will be of value,” said A few big players may go on the block as the econ- sitions, with a cash position that is strong Tory Burch is reportedly Allan Ellinger, senior managing part- omy pushes them into bankruptcy — or pre-bankrupt- enough to weather the economic storm even still discussing a sale. ner of Marketing Management Group. 22 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 WWD.COM London Preview For more on London, including the show calendar, see WWD.com.

Head Start Hats are elevating in status from side show to main event, with emerging hat and Ones to Watch headwear designers A few names creating some buzz around London Fashion Week. By Nina Jones rapidly joining the schedule. Nasir Mazhar, known for his Fresh Faces East Enders offbeat presentations A clutch of Fashion East, a program that supports young designers — such as models new names and has in past seasons brought names such as wearing rusty scissors is nudging Richard Nicoll, Marios Schwab and Jonathan Saunders on their heads — will its way onto to the fore, is now among London’s must-see shows. stage an on-schedule London’s New to its lineup for fall are Holly Fulton and Maria show. runways Francesca Pepe, who join Natascha Stolle in her Justin Smith, who, this second season as part of the group show. Fulton, a like Mazhar, is a season. graduate of London’s Royal College of Art, has garnered Holly Fulton former hairdresser, will Mark Fast, attention for her heavily embellished dresses in simple show his fall collection a London- silhouettes. “References include Eduardo Paolozzi, robotic stuff and circuit boards,” said Fulton, adding she’ll work with as part of the On/Off based Canadian materials including “Swarovski crystallized elements, lots of luxurious leathers, hand-enameled metal, laser-cut Perspex and schedule at London’s who’s made a a dash of digital print.” Pepe, meanwhile, started out designing graphic jewelry in silver and brass after graduating from the Science Museum. name whipping Central Saint Martins masters program, and will show a full ready-to-wear collection for the first time. “The collection will be Smith’s past up delicate, form- very feminine without being obvious,” Pepe noted. “I…have built up a warrior woman who faces her femininity without being collections have fitting knit dresses, weak. There will be a great mix of trousers, jackets, coats, and dresses — plus vintage-inspired evening bags. The jewelry incorporated materials is staging his first remains the prime focus, since it works as both the frame for the outfits and as a component itself.” like oversize buttons, on-schedule runway doll’s heads and show in London. “This bunches of pearls. collection tells the Piers Atkinson, story of two lovers in Generation Next New in Town who got early exposure a lightning storm,” This season’s crop of New Generation-sponsored Kinder Aggugini has already notched plenty of fashion accolades: to the millinery craft said Fast, describing designers is rapidly becoming established on the He’s served as head designer at Versace and held positions at when his mother his fall inspirations. London scene. Calvin Klein, Costume National and Vivienne Westwood. Now, after made hats for the Known for his packed-to-the-rafters shows — presenting his namesake collection of silk puffball dresses and Mark Fast “I wanted to create Royal Opera House a collection that often starring his best pal Agyness Deyn — Henry jackets in Paris last season, he’ll stage a runway show at London’s and English National expresses the joy of being in Holland says his House of Holland collection for fall Paramount Club for fall. “The fall collection is inspired by the Opera, will show his nature, where it is just the trees will take inspiration from “paint sample cards and musical concept of mash up,” said Aggugini. “Pieces are created collection as part of and the breeze of the fresh mist Pantone color sheets — as I’ve spent countless from the combination of two or more elements of overlaying shapes, designer Ashish’s from the side of the mountain.” weekends in [British hardware store] B&Q trying to textiles and ideas to form a bold, beautiful strong new silhouette.” show. Meanwhile, Mary Katrantzou, work out what color to paint my house.” Expect a Sienna and Savannah Miller, meanwhile, Avant-garde an Athens-born Central Saint collection full of sharp, tailored pieces in “tactile” Kinder are showing theirTwenty8Twelve label on London hairdresser Martins graduate, will show back- cashmeres, silks and wools, says Holland. Aggugini the runway for the first time this season. Charlie Le Mindu will to-back with Fast at the British Meadham Kirchhoff designers Edward Savannah Miller said inspirations for the fall also step into the Fashion Council’s Natural History Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff, meanwhile, line include Charlie Chaplin, highwaymen fray, showing 15 wigs Museum venue. This season, are taking their cues from desire, sex and luxury. and Grace Jones. “When all chucked in to and hairpieces made she has taken vintage perfume “We’re exploring the introspection of falling the melting pot, we have come out with a from a mixture of hair, bottles as the starting point for her in love through the use of multilayered and classic Twenty8Twelve feeling but with a fabric and Swarovski printed dresses. While Katrantzou, contrasting fabric textures,” said Meadham. much more modern edge than we have ever crystals. “Somehow who is known for her bold, jewelry Danielle Scutt — who counts Michael Jackson visited before,” said Miller. it’s all happened at print dresses, graduated from and Picasso among her fall inspirations — said London designer Maria Grachvogel is the right time,” said CSM’s M.A. program only last she’s worked up a collection “much more also back on the London schedule this Atkinson of the boom year, she already counts Browns structured and tailored than the last. It’s about season after a few years’ hiatus, and will in London headgear. Focus in London, Colette in Paris construction and physical change to the body this show a collection of Thirties-inspired “The recession and Joyce in Hong Kong among time, with corsetry in the garments and prints masculine tailoring in a presentation at happened, and people her retail clients. that aren’t as organic.” Covent Garden’s Hospital Club on Feb. 23. wanted a bit of fun.”

ROOMS WITH A VIEW: One of the most sought-after invitations as SteveJ and YoniP, Belle Sauvage and Evie Belle sit alongside this season is to the Paramount private members club, perched vintage accessories and furniture sourced by Lem, who is a 32 stories above London’s West End. Housed on the top former fashion stylist. In the vintage area of the 2,500-square- three floors of Richard Seifert’s iconic Centre Point foot space, secondhand clothes and accessories hang against building, the club offers a restaurant, bar, viewing gallery a scarlet wall while sumptuous antique furniture and birdcages and private event space designed by Mark Way and Tom and Lionel Dean hats sit on white podiums in a more futuristic Dixon. The copper, slate and sea green interior features area at the back. design elements that reference the modernist My Sugarland architecture of the building, such as bar stools 402-404 St. John Street, EC1V 4NJ CONRANS’Scene CAF: Albion is a very old name designed by Norman Cherner. A large copper bar Tel.: +44-207-841-7131 for Great Britain, and it’s also the moniker Terence and Vicki Conran have given their new East London cafe. Albion is part of The Paramount The Powder Room Boundary, a soon-to-open clutch of bars, dining room. eateries — and 17 guest bedrooms — housed in a converted Victorian warehouse in Shoreditch. Albion’s interior is stark and Scandinavian-inspired, with white-tiled walls, long communal wooden tables and an open kitchen with quirky, homely touches like hand-knitted tea cozies. The food is hearty British fare, including fish and chips, shepherd’s pie and blackberry crumble. It’s open from 8 a.m. until midnight daily. Albion at Boundary Albion cafe. Inset: A look 2-4 Boundary Street, E2 7JE; Albion cafe. Inset: A look from “Simply Madonna.” Tel.: +44-207-729-1051 from “Simply Madonna.”

CLOSET MADONNA: As Madonna continues to travel the world that recalls the edge of a cut gemstone is BEAUTY SPOT: Since retro makeup is now oh- with the Sticky and Sweet tour, her wardrobe will be taking a the focal point of the dining room. In the so-modern, hipsters are bound to flip for The bow of its own — in London’s East End. “Simply Madonna,” restaurant, head chef James O’Connor’s Powder Room, a Fifties-inspired beauty store curated by Ted Owen in association with Marquee Capital, an traditional British menu includes roast loin and salon recently opened in East London. The investment firm specializing in celebrity memorabilia, opens of pork with applesauce and “bubble-and- bijou boutique, which boasts Americana touches, at the Truman Brewery on Feb. 20. It showcases costumes squeak” — that’s shallow fried vegetables — and braised ox offers makeup application, hairstyling, manicures and products from stage, film and music videos. Highlights include the cheeks with baby onions, mushrooms and pancetta. by Bumble and bumble, Paul and Joe and Mavala. Those not bright pink “Material Girl” strapless dress; wedding gowns Paramount tempted to try a radical makeover might just be tempted by the tea from the Like a Virgin tour and “Evita,” and the bustier with 103 New Oxford Street, WC1A 1DD and cakes served. A 15-minute manicure or a speedy hairstyling black and gold tassels from the “Open Your Heart” video. Tel.: +44-207-420-2900 session are priced at approximately 15 pounds, or about $21. “Simply Madonna” The Powder Room The Old Truman Brewery ANGEL DELIGHT: My Sugarland, the fashion and lifestyle 136 Columbia Road, London, E2 7RG 91 Brick Lane, London, E1 6QL boutique that opened in London’s Angel neighborhood last fall, Tel.: +44-207-704-8009 marqueecapital.com is Zoe Lem’s playground. Designs by London-based labels such — Louise Bartlett, with contributions from Poppy Grant

24 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 WWD.COM Forever 21 to Open Larger Concept in L.A. Lavelle Olexa to Leave Lord & Taylor By Anne Riley-Katz “This is a new thing.” By David Moin The move is part of Forever 21’s shift Fast-fashion chain Forever 21 toward department-store-size units. LaVelle Olexa, Lord & Taylor’s senior vice president and longtime plans to launch a prototype in California Existing stores range from a 1,700-square- fashion director, is leaving the company on Feb. 27. this year that will double its average foot, accessories-only door called For Her departure stems from cutbacks and centralization efforts by Hudson’s Bay store size. Love 21 in Glendale Galleria mall to a Trading Co., based in Toronto, which operates Lord & Taylor in the U.S. and The The privately held retailer aims to 90,000-square-foot store that is to open Bay, Zellers, Home Outfitters and Fields in Canada. Hudson’s Bay this month elimi- open an estimated 80,000-square-foot in 2010 at 1540 Broadway in New York’s nated 1,000 jobs to offset declining business conditions. store at Los Cerritos Center, a Macerich- Times Square. “It was an extraordinarily good run,” Olexa told WWD. owned mall near Los Angeles, in late The typical Forever 21 is now less than She joined Lord & Taylor 20 years ago, sur- 2009. The space was acquired as a result 40,000 square feet, but has grown in this vived management and ownership changes, of the liquidation of Hayward, Calif.- decade. In 2000, the average Forever 21 and, despite her shy and soft-spoken nature, re- based retailer Mervyns. store was about 6,000 square feet, and in mained the store’s highest profile executive for The concept will feature a brightly 2006 the Los Angeles-based apparel com- many years in media and fashion circles. She lit floor space with women’s and men’s pany opened its largest store in Pasadena, worked closely with the chain’s previous two apparel divided by look — vintage, ca- Calif., a 40,000- square-foot site once chief executive officers, Marshall Hilsberg and, sual or avant-garde, for example — sur- home to Saks Fifth Avenue. more recently, Jane Elfers. Brendan Hoffman is rounded by accessory walls along the Nakaoka said creating the larger con- the current ceo. indoor perimeter. cept has been a challenge. While still under the ownership of the former “It’s a way to use our fast-fashion “It was hard with 40,000 square feet, May Department Stores Co., which was taken over heritage to offer more so how do you do it with by Macy’s Inc. three years ago, Elfers and Olexa categories for more A look 80,000?” Nakaoka said. worked to awaken the chain’s moderate image customers,” said senior from “We have to make it a through merchandise upgrades and taking more vice president Larry Forever new store, a non-de- chances with the advertising, marketing and visu- Meyer. “We’re bringing 21. partment style store in a als. The process was accelerated by NRDC Equity in larger sizes, a more department store-sized Partners, which bought Lord & Taylor in 2006 and enhanced shoe collec- space. We fight about Hudson’s Bay in 2008. tion, lingerie and more it; it hasn’t been easy. “One of the most rewarding parts of the job has Lavelle Olexa categories.” But it will be just right. been directing the Lord & Taylor windows,” Olexa Forever 21 acquired Nobody has ever done recalled. She was particularly proud of filling them with artwork by Larry Rivers, 15 Mervyns leases in a this before.” Richard Estes, Manolo Valdez, Chakaia Booker, and even Tats Cru, the graffiti group, joint bid with Kohl’s, Executives said a among other artists. One time, under her direction, the windows re-created the streets which took over 31 department store-style of San Miguel in Mexico. For one Father’s Day promotion, the glass panes were re- stores, for $6.25 million concept has been part of moved to display Corvette sports cars. in a court auction in owner Don Chang’s plans “We energized the windows, but we also had parties, book signings, performances December. for years, and will drive and shops that supported them. What we attempted to do was elevate the store to There is risk in open- growth. The company has make it interesting and differentiated. Somehow the windows enabled me to bring ing a slew of a new-for- not yet identified other many elements of the store together in a focused effort,” Olexa said. mat locations, especially sites for the makeover. At Lord & Taylor, she started as senior vice president of fashion merchandising. during the recession. But Meyer said the “The costs are quite significant,” She eventually added public relations and sales promotion. Her current title is se- new concept would help the chain appeal Meyer said. “That’s why it’s important nior vice president of public relations. to consumers older than 24, a demograph- that we get Cerritos right first before Olexa’s retail career started at Neiman Marcus in Texas where she was an in- ic that represents more than one-third of moving on to other locations.” house model working for the late Stanley Marcus. She quickly learned that fashion Forever 21’s overall customer base, with 45 The chain, which has about 430 mall retailing was her calling. “I fell in love with a business that provided me with a percent falling between 18 and 24 years old stores, first tried to acquire Mervyns world that was perfect for me and I knew it right away,” she said at a Laboratory and the remaining 20 percent under 18. real estate in 2004, when Target Corp. Institute of Merchandising party honoring her and the formation of a scholarship in The apparel retailer’s revenue has sold the now-bankrupt value retailer for her name in 2006. Olexa was also a finalist in the Miss Universe contest. grown from $180 million eight years ago to $1.2 billion to an investment group that After Neiman’s, she became the fashion director at May D&F in Denver, and roughly $1.65 billion last year, with about included Sun Capital Partners Inc. and subsequently held the same position at Denver Dry Goods. From there, she joined $2 billion projected for 2009, Meyer said. Cerberus Capital Management LP. Woodward & Lothrop in Washington as vice president and fashion director. She then “You see 15- and 18-year-olds shop- Forever 21 is taking space at malls in moved to Lord & Taylor, owned by May Department Stores at the time. While May long ping right next to 35-year-olds and none Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, Texas and insisted that its executives keep a low profile and not talk to the press, Olexa was an of them feel uncomfortable,” said Los California, and has expanded overseas, exception. “I guess there was some level of trust because they gave me more latitude,” Angeles architect Jas Nakaoka, who opening stores in China, Thailand and Olexa said. “I never felt that they were in any way attempting to curtail my efforts.” has designed Forever 21 stores for more South Korea last year. It plans to launch Asked about her future after Lord & Taylor, Olexa replied: “My philosophy is to than 10 years and handled the prototype. in Japan’s Harajuku district on April 29. always look forward. That’s exactly what I am doing now.” MEMO PAD REALITY TRULY SETS IN: Joanna Coles, editor in chief of the same week, and the trickle of departures (voluntary ignorant of how their own business worked (or didn’t.) Marie Claire, may be a familiar face to the fashion world, and involuntary) since then has been fairly constant. More Outgoing Wall Street Journal media and technology editor but she’ll soon be judged by a whole different collective recently, BlackBook Media Corp. chief executive officer Rich Turner (who recently moved to a gig at WSJ.com) pointed set when the magazine’s reality show, “Running in Heels,” Ari Horowitz reportedly gave publisher Grayle Howlett his out that it’s more fun now to be a consumer of media than premieres on The Style Network on March 1. Fashion walking papers several weeks ago, though a spokesman ever, but in terms of news and information, someone was director Nina Garcia became a household name with for BlackBook called it a “mutual decision, representative going to have to pay to gather it, and predicted The New York “Project Runway,” and she’ll appear in “Running in Heels,” of a decision to focus on the digital space.” That includes Times would have to make some tough choices. “I watched even as she’s continued to film for the much-delayed new the mobile guides the spokesman said were already “the what happened with the Bancrofts,” he said, referring to season of “Project Runway.” In that show, Garcia will be primary revenue stream” for the company. The spokesman the family that controlled the Journal’s parent, Dow Jones, joined by 20 Marie Claire staffers for the final runway show said that rather than hire a new publisher, Horowitz will take before it was purchased by News Corp. “The discussions on Friday, as sources now say that, contrary to rumors — over the sales side, with advertising director Brett Wagner about preserving the integrity lasted about 30 seconds.” (He and after much legal action — the new season will air later serving as associate publisher. — Irin Carmon acknowledged the Sulzberger family was a different case, in this year. As for “Running in Heels,” Coles and Garcia — part because it’s involved in day-to-day operations.) along with staffers including executive editor Lucy Kaylin, LOTS WRONG, BUT WHAT’S RIGHT?: Panels on the future of But when it came to actually predicting the future — say, senior fashion editor Zanna Roberts and senior shopping media are a standby in this fast-changing age, but lately 10 years hence — few wanted to theorize. “You can’t plan editor Zoe Glassner — were followed for nearly five months news seems so bleak that even filling them out can be a your business for 10 years — it’s more like 18 months,” said by four camera crews. “I did get used to the cameras very challenge, as Gene Stone, moderator of a panel hosted by Richards. “You have to be ready for uncertainty.” — I.C. quickly,” said Coles. “We tried to make it as realistic as Out Professionals on Thursday, found when he sought a possible.” But it is a show, and she admitted some scenes book industry representative. “No one would even agree to EASY GOING: Clive Owen has been to his fair share of runway were reshot if the camera didn’t pick something up the first sit in the audience,” he said. shows in Milan, but he is leaving New York just in time to time around. And Coles now gets to watch the rest of her So who did turn out? Former Martha Stewart chief miss the madness at Bryant Park. After a long stretch of press staff on camera and hear their personal conversations. “I executive and current Gilt Groupe chief executive officer Susan interviews for his latest film, “The International,” Owen made found out that there are a few divas here,” she admitted Lyne, who noted that when media is no longer scarce, allowing one of his last official stops before heading back to the U.K. at surprisingly — mainly because what would a fashion advertisers to bid up prices for limited space, all previous Esquire magazine’s party on Wednesday night to fete the fifth magazine be without a few divas? That list probably business models are destabilized; author James B. Stewart, who anniversary of fashion director Nick Sullivan. He was joined by included three new interns who try to one-up one another to found some hope in the fact that Manolo Blahnik reportedly editor in chief David Granger, publisher Kevin O’Malley, David catch the eye of Coles and other editors. But for the interns, makes money on his blog through click-through e-commerce, Lauren, Thom Browne, André Benjamin and Fonzworth Bentley. a harsh reality sets in at the end of the eight episodes: all and television and film producer Mary Murphy, among others. Owen, who wore Giorgio Armani on the cover of the March three go home without a job. Coles maintained the program Plenty of people could point to what went wrong. issue and also to the party, didn’t make life too hard for was never meant to be a competition. “In this economy? Lyne said the magazine business had erred in drastically Sullivan during the shoot. “He’s the most laid-back actor that No. We weren’t raffling off a job.” — Amy Wicks lowering subscription prices to rely heavily on the I’ve worked with,” said Sullivan, who didn’t name names advertising model, tying its fortunes to advertisers rather but added that he has worked with more than a few high- SWITCHING STRATEGIES: BlackBook is scaling back its than readers. Nathan Richards, the ceo of ContentNext maintenance actors. He said there will be a focus on using print ambitions and hoping digital guides and mobile Media, said networks had failed to gain traction on models for fashion editorial going forward, but only models applications will do the trick. The magazine, which went their Web sites, which he said draw fewer readers than that are relatable to the average Esquire reader. And while from bimonthly to 10 times a year in 2008, is now reducing newspapers online. And while all the panelists said the some magazines are emphasizing budget-conscious options, frequency to eight times a year. Last May, both editor in prized wall between editorial and advertising was important Sullivan said he isn’t necessarily going to take this approach. chief Steve Garbarino and publisher Joe Landry took off in to journalistic integrity, it had also left many journalists “It’s more about finding the right pieces.” — Amy Wicks WWD, monday, february 16, 2009 25 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Web Sites Flag Deadbeat Stores Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt By Sharon Edelson High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Vendors are turning to the Internet to 82.06 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 4.3 27057614 22.78 1.82 50.35 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 8.0 4509110 11.67 -0.10 vent their frustration with slow-paying or nonpaying 26.78 9.04 Acadia (AKR) 9.4 1596455 10.50 -1.55 51.42 13.95 J.C. Penney (JCP) 4.5 30219444 15.77 -0.06 retail accounts. 3.78 0.47 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 632065 0.58 -0.01 7.70 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 1610 3.00 -0.50 Web sites are “outing” retailers with bad business 37.40 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 10.5 13703077 22.29 -1.37 1.67 0.24 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.4 247215 0.30 0.02 practices, and manufacturers are using the public fo- 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.5 3413212 23.55 -2.37 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 13573328 3.44 -0.23 rums to shame stores into paying their bills or steer 12.69 1.45 American Apparel (APP) 6.7 1510083 2.30 0.10 50.58 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 9.0 2164106 26.44 -0.55 clear of stores with bad online reputations. Not surpris- 23.73 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 6.7 16123882 9.06 -0.58 19.74 5.52 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 265116 7.10 -1.33 ingly, stores are less than appreciative of these critiques — particularly since many of them are anonymous. 29.23 3.74 Ann Taylor (ANN) 9.5 11083413 6.50 0.51 47.80 9.56 Kimco Realty (KIM) 9.2 44747872 10.40 -2.98 Retailers have long been accused of making late pay- 420.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 37.0 2764503 317.50 27.50 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 12.3 34249095 36.13 -2.35 ments, requesting unearned discounts and bouncing 45.34 17.45 Avon (AVP) 10.6 21327943 21.37 -1.36 20.76 9.55 K-Swiss (KSWS) 10.4 512428 10.52 -0.65 deliveries back to vendors for minor offenses. In today’s 13.83 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 8.6 2526138 5.57 -0.54 18.98 8.28 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 9.4 2900 10.98 0.98 economic environment, with many stores fighting for sur- 56.72 32.32 Beiersdorf * (BEI:HM) 14.4 3517474 35.29 -0.48 22.16 6.90 Limited Brands (LTD) 5.1 24538089 8.14 -0.71 vival, the concern among vendors is getting paid at all. 13.30 4.80 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 7.0 738871 5.82 -0.30 20.60 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 6974133 2.52 -0.06 Retaildish.com consists of a database of stores 5.12 0.24 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 0.2 123720 0.28 -0.05 3.99 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 7.4 236551 0.58 -0.04 ranked by scores posted by users. For example, a post 44.29 28.27 BJs (BJ) 13.8 8988104 28.74 -1.51 99.97 50.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 11.6 6399926 53.45 -1.50 by “Stevie” claimed that doing business with Intermix 0.29 0.07 Blue (BLHI) - 37747 0.07 0.00 37.33 5.91 Lululemon (LULU) 10.9 1574617 6.46 -1.36 “hurt. We made merchandise just for them and they 5.50 0.55 Bluefly (BFLY) - 2446 0.80 -0.05 26.66 10.62 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 11.9 4169306 11.56 -0.18 took it in. Their check bounced and then they had the audacity to return the merchandise after three 10.50 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 471814 1.49 0.10 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 11.4 8750890 48.59 -1.44 months. It almost put us under.” 18.44 3.68 Brown Shoe (BWS) 5.0 2557535 3.81 -0.74 76.50 8.31 Macerich (MAC) 7.1 20695257 13.54 -1.55 After perusing the site, Khajak Keledjian, chief 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 11.0 3518413 23.94 -0.47 27.08 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) 5.3 57724156 8.63 -1.07 executive officer and cofounder of Intermix, said, 11.48 2.97 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 7.9 8246740 3.39 -0.04 17.59 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 6.5 859166 8.31 -1.23 “Anyone can write whatever they want, not give their 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) 8.2 14414315 272.25 -17.50 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 6.6 71586991 266.25 -3.25 name or affiliation.…Clearly, it is not a reliable source 16.29 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 5.0 1950743 6.31 -0.01 27.64 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 8.0 2594027 10.99 -1.30 for designers to be doing their research on retailers. 14.86 1.41 Caché (CACH) 9.9 275363 2.05 0.06 26.17 5.94 Movado (MOV) 4.3 887707 7.29 -1.22 Who knows the motivations behind the comments? Of 54.20 24.16 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 10.4 16482838 27.76 -0.09 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 11.8 8785884 14.71 -1.63 course we haven’t bounced checks.” 22.39 11.94 Carter (CRI) 12.3 2947079 15.70 -1.14 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) 7.9 2582733 2.39 0.20 Postings about That Look, with three locations in 4.95 0.35 Casual Male (CMRG) - 372670 0.40 -0.06 0.10 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 1342450 0.07 0.01 New Jersey, included, “They do return goods frequent- 19.38 11.30 Cato (CTR) 14.8 816994 14.76 -0.24 70.60 42.68 Nike (NKE) 11.9 20031619 43.43 -5.25 ly. I am doing business with them but it’s not fun.” Another poster said That Look “demands a discount 27.55 2.53 CBL (CBL) 9.1 9696050 3.97 -0.83 1.85 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 108513 0.06 -0.13 for 60-day terms. They’re never happy with the mer- 9.70 2.75 CCA (CAW) 5.3 30583 3.05 0.26 39.52 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 5.5 20571548 13.18 -1.01 chandise. A very difficult customer.” 1.57 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 333302 0.47 0.12 10.53 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 17.7 84008 10.99 0.64 Owner Susan Consalvo said the charges are “com- 20.61 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 58.4 989302 5.26 -0.52 29.88 4.48 Oxford (OXM) 6.1 424969 6.14 -0.43 pletely unjustified and unsubstantiated.” Consalvo, 6.42 0.57 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 1658775 1.05 -0.08 14.04 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 11341574 1.53 0.41 who was familiar with the Web site and its postings 82.15 57.10 Chattem (CHTT) 19.0 918440 65.47 -0.01 7.15 1.30 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 20.9 1130555 1.40 -1.12 about her stores, said, “Nobody likes to see their 36.97 11.55 Cherokee (CHKE) 10.3 172724 18.37 0.04 27.88 2.21 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 4542508 4.68 -0.15 name tarnished. It’s just like a crying post to whine,” 10.72 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 16408188 4.39 0.12 29.27 3.40 Perry Ellis (PERY) 3.4 887294 4.39 0.48 she said of the site. “It’s not a true barometer” of a 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) - 3800160 19.93 1.48 47.94 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 6.1 3255857 18.26 -1.98 retailer’s business practices. 12.19 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 67.7 665674 4.86 0.35 2.10 0.22 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 1900 0.31 -0.04 Retailbeef.com is an anonymous blog created for up-and-coming designers to share information about 33.73 19.51 Cintas (CTAS) 11.0 9457416 22.93 -0.91 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 8.4 11227126 37.27 -4.74 retailers, both positive and negative. The blog’s author 28.12 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 9.8 367823 10.85 -0.90 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 4.8 3769359 42.55 -3.34 is not named, but identified as a designer. “My goal is 37.64 13.19 Coach (COH) 6.5 31259200 13.97 -1.90 29.73 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 12.4 649402 18.52 -0.68 to promote awareness of the bad seeds in our indus- 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 1808168 2.95 -0.03 10.67 0.07 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 3770353 1.57 -0.33 try,” the designer writes. 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 17.2 13899704 63.13 -2.53 8.84 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 7.5 72840 6.09 -0.09 Kim Leone Olenicoff, an attorney, and Ali 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) 23.2 4528707 10.89 -0.35 24.28 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 3.6 637186 5.05 0.23 Sedaghat, who has designed urbanwear and clubwe- 49.49 26.07 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 10.9 852729 29.71 -1.62 73.55 23.36 Regency Centers (REG) 13.8 11722232 29.27 -4.79 ar, launched VendorProtector.com a year and a half 75.23 41.83 Costco (COST) 15.0 27955163 42.76 -2.45 7.46 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) 1.6 1005228 2.22 -0.54 ago. “We love dealing with the small boutiques but got 34.75 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 5257709 1.24 -0.07 14.85 0.67 Revlon (REV) 2.2 1141912 3.71 -1.04 sick of dealing with the payment and collection side,” 0.18 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 4594 0.04 0.00 83.00 15.89 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 4.1 11248584 17.73 -1.23 Leone Olenicoff said. “They’re [retailers] struggling. 146.60 46.27 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 10.1 2013361 54.67 -1.79 41.56 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 13.7 10475762 30.70 -1.88 We understand. But it’s not right for them to place big orders at shows and cancel them.” 3.50 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) 208.0 321966 1.87 -0.17 3.72 0.44 Safilo * (SFL:MI) 12.5 3411207 0.63 -0.10 Leone Olenicoff said the idea behind 9.15 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) 6.9 42626 4.05 -0.26 17.50 1.89 Saks (SKS) - 9784547 1.92 -0.80 VendorProtector is “to be like a Zagat guide for the 20.21 5.72 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 6224 8.22 0.23 112.80 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 20.2 5498610 38.99 -2.43 fashion industry.” She also offers mediation services for 45.66 1.73 Developers Diversified (DDR) 3.7 33649482 3.44 -1.36 106.43 33.78 Simon Properties (SPG) 23.0 39200995 38.05 -7.81 $75 an hour or a percentage of the recovered amount, 23.11 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 2723719 4.46 -0.24 25.20 6.87 Skechers (SKX) 3.8 4548592 7.32 -0.10 whichever is lower. “Most small and medium manufac- 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 8.1 2513578 9.47 -0.36 3.37 0.15 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 0 0.43 0.00 turers don’t have the time and money to even go to small 20.69 7.30 DSW (DSW) 13.3 991780 10.11 -0.96 6.65 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 393525 1.14 -0.04 claims court,” she said. “A big store will challenge the 24.00 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 2502 10.54 0.64 29.00 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 12.6 1015125 16.95 -1.66 court’s jurisdiction. If a retailer is struggling or going 8.72 0.30 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 292964 0.82 0.12 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 337375 28.40 0.05 out of business, how are you going to collect?” 21.79 5.18 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 33.3 1037216 6.53 -0.80 17.86 5.43 Syms (SYMS) - 59684 6.26 -1.07 54.75 24.24 Estée Lauder (EL) 12.7 11326426 26.89 -1.23 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 1341547 2.79 -0.18 WEEKLY 32.50 18.00 Family Dollar (FDO) 15.7 16067895 26.61 -0.31 7.65 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 118389 1.45 -0.24 12.43 2.31 Finish Line (FINL) - 2347161 4.40 -0.54 3.37 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 7.7 40163 1.86 -0.06 CHANGE WWD 38.08 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 5.4 4200544 12.09 -0.41 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 40.8 2898964 28.19 -3.58 ENDING 3.99 0.16 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 95489 0.28 -0.07 59.55 25.60 Target (TGT) 9.7 68509297 30.08 -2.94 ( FEB. 13 ) INDEX 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 37.2 1756954 9.29 -0.61 1.05 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 123338 0.53 0.06 % 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) 162.9 139900 51.00 3.00 92.35 17.27 Taubman (TCO) 28.1 8584686 17.64 -2.78 21.89 9.41 Gap (GPS) 8.5 38053205 11.62 -0.32 3.65 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 1595 3.23 0.42 Gainers Change Composite 44.23 0.24 General Growth (GGP) 3.1 27209495 0.55 -0.26 49.98 16.75 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 8.9 19826485 20.18 -2.71 Pacific Sunwear 36.61 636.10 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 2.8 1120675 14.91 -1.04 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 15.8 2033536 11.64 -0.22 Charles & Colvard 34.82 23.00 4.07 G-III Apparel (GIII) 3.8 709259 4.03 -0.91 37.52 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 10.5 24172171 21.64 -1.18 Eddie Bauer 17.14 42.74 7.25 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 8.6 21635606 7.26 -3.28 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 11.5 276938 31.50 0.90 Tefron 14.95 13.46 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 1547302 1.51 -0.09 31.82 9.83 True Religion (TRLG) 6.9 1890160 10.56 -1.67 39.90 17.05 G&K (GKSR) 11.7 257568 19.95 -0.92 32.34 2.07 Tween Brands (TWB) 4.0 1637425 3.00 -0.49 Tarrant Apparel 12.79 0.96 0.08 Gottschalks (GOTTQ) - 91801 0.15 0.01 45.30 15.75 Under Armour (UA) 21.3 3951939 15.82 -2.38 45.21 10.26 Guess (GES) 7.1 6360838 16.66 -1.63 5.43 0.97 Unifi (UFI) - 4076034 1.13 -0.28 Decliners Change 47.69 16.48 Gymboree (GYMB) 8.3 3545440 25.45 -2.12 34.89 19.96 Unilever (UL) - 6643713 20.30 -0.43 Parlux Fragrances -44.44 12.80 2.05 Hampshire (HAMP) - 36300 2.50 -0.49 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 13.3 23880710 16.50 -1.35 General Growth -32.10 37.73 7.35 Hanesbrands (HBI) 6.0 7590027 7.60 -1.00 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 9.8 9173452 52.91 -5.56 Gildan Activewear -31.12 0.53 0.02 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 2051611 0.02 -0.01 28.88 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 5.8 1506558 8.71 -0.81 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 17.8 20017514 329.00 -16.50 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 14.0 107185864 46.53 -3.10 Saks -29.41 -40.34 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 28.6 778961 77.62 -2.38 53.89 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 12.4 3817840 22.43 -1.62 Developers Diversified -28.33 9.89 4.04 Hot Topic (HOTT) 23.5 4429447 9.31 -0.26 40.00 8.27 Weingarten (WRI) 7.1 9242387 13.60 -2.80 21.09 13.27 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 14366408 15.05 0.26 5.54 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 6.9 2734196 2.71 -0.18 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of 22.80 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 7.5 2445576 9.25 0.65 41.99 23.82 Weyco (WEYS) 15.7 53190 27.76 -3.80 their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quot- 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 15.6 8484808 31.70 0.25 31.21 16.24 Wolverine (WWW) 8.9 2583944 16.87 -0.87 ed in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish 19.96 4.64 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 7.1 500507 6.92 0.20 30.89 1.11 Zale (ZLC) - 6771382 1.37 -0.21 kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 1.96 0.16 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 28.84 4.50 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 10.9 1261795 9.01 0.20 26 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Wooing Urban Shopper Moody’s Downgrades Safilo, By Jean E. Palmieri ditionally styled woven shirts under the American Classics Citing Slowdown in Demand label along with classic five-pocket jeans, cargo pants and Will the young urban customer shop at a nautical-inspired jackets. Prices range from $9.99 to $29. By Andrew Roberts mass market retailer? That is a question Wal-Mart Stores Simmons, who is on Wal-Mart’s advisory board, could Inc. will soon be able to answer. not be reached for comment and a spokesman at his com- MILAN — Moody’s Investors Services downgraded Last week, the Bentonville, Ark.-based retailer qui- pany, Rush Communications, said it “would not be issuing Safilo Group SpA on Friday on concerns the slow- etly began flowing a new men’s apparel line from hip- any comments right now.” down in demand and exchange rate fluctuations hop entrepreneur Russell Simmons to a small number of American Classics looks very much like a lower-priced could dent operating performance this year. its U.S. doors. The line, American Classics, version of Argyle Culture. Moody’s revised down Safilo’s Corporate has a preppy sensibility similar to Simmons’ Equity analyst Jeff Van Sinderen of Family Rating to “B2” from “B1” and the senior higher-priced Argyle Culture collection for B. Riley believes the Wal-Mart launch unsecured rating on its 195 million notes, or Macy’s that launched at the end of 2007. The is a smart move. “Wal-Mart has done an $250.8 million, due 2013 to “Caa1” from “B3.” It Wal-Mart line is being sold in approximately amazing job getting into areas where they also placed the ratings on review for possible fur- 350 stores as well as on walmart.com, accord- haven’t traded before. Kudos for them for ther downgrades due to uncertainties surrounding ing to a report in BusinessWeek. Simmons’ staying on the cutting edge,” he said. Safilo’s need to renegotiate existing financial cov- name is on the label and his picture will be Although he did not have specific knowl- enants in its main bank facility and the company’s displayed on the sales floors near the mer- edge of the American Classics line, Van ability to meet future payment obligations. chandise. There are two hangtags on each Sinderen said he expects the retailer to “Today’s downgrade reflects Moody’s expecta- garment. One sports an American Classics put the collection into “a trial mode and tion that 2009 will continue to be a difficult year logo and the second a quote from Simmons see how it works.” He said the young urban for the company,” Moody’s vice president and with his signature. shopper is a “hard customer to reach,” but senior analyst Paolo Leschiutta said. “Safilo was A Wal-Mart spokesman said the retailer if a line is fashion-right, it will succeed — at able to control operating margin erosion and in- was “not providing a comment” on the line least for a while. ventory levels during full year 2008. However, at this time. “We’ve seen a lot of names come and go,” Moody’s remains concerned about the potential Wal-Mart is clearly hoping American Van Sinderen said. “Sometimes there’s an negative impact on Safilo’s operating performance Classics will have a better reception than the initial run of success, but it’s followed by a over the coming months due to the ongoing soft- much-hyped LL Cool J collection that launched steep decline. This customer base embrac- ness in consumer spending and the volatility of exclusively at Sears last year. Although sales es what’s something for a while and then foreign exchange rates, namely the U.S. dollar and of that line were initially good, according to A look from American Classics. moves on to the next thing. Wal-Mart is well the British pound against the euro.” sources, it’s now struggling. There is widespread specula- aware of what the progression has been in that space.” Safilo, which licenses with Giorgio Armani, tion the line may not have much life left in it. Although Wal-Mart did stumble several years ago when Dior, Gucci and Valentino, among others, last In response, a Sears spokesman said last week: “We’re it tried to offer more fashion-forward merchandise, the week reported unaudited net profits of 14.6 mil- getting ready to show LL Cool J at New York Fashion world’s largest retailer has shown it’s not afraid to test lion euros, or $21.5 million, in 2008, compared to Week [Tuesday and Wednesday]. We think it resonates concepts and use its marketing muscle to jump on con- 51 million euros, or $73.9 million, in 2007. (The with the urban consumer and we’re showing it for fall.” sumer trends. 2008 figure excludes an extraordinary provision Unlike the LL Cool J collection, which boasts fleur-de- Last week, the retailer said it will add “Twilight” shops for deferred taxes of between 35 million euros, or lis logos and tattoo-inspired T-shirts, Simmons’ designs to all 3,500 stores in March to coincide with the arrival of $45.2 million, and 40 million euros, or $51.6 mil- for Wal-Mart are less embellished. “It’s preppy,” said one the DVD of the successful vampire-themed movie. The lion.) Sales for the 12 months through Dec. 31 fell observer who has seen the collection, “sort of like a less shops will carry apparel as well as messenger bags, totes expensive Tommy Hilfiger.” and accessories, posters, the CD soundtrack and the four The Wal-Mart Web site shows argyle sweater vests and tra- books by Stephanie Meyer that launched the teen craze. Moody’s remains concerned “about the [impact]…over the Court to Review Class-Action Status in Wal-Mart Case coming months due to the Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Friday won a round, and “We are pleased with today’s positive step in this ongoing softness in consumer a chance to substantially reduce its financial exposure, in case,” stated Jeff Gearhart, who on Friday was named ex- the largest sexual discrimination suit in U.S. history when a ecutive vice president and general counsel for Wal-Mart. spending and the volatility of federal appeals court in San Francisco agreed to reconsider “We look forward to presenting our arguments to a larger whether the case should go forward with class-action status. group of judges and are hopeful they will decide the case foreign exchange rates. ­ The case, originally brought by Betty Dukes and five co- should not proceed as a class action. defendants in U.S. District Court for the Northern District “It is important to note that the merits of this case have — Paolo Leschiutta,” of California in 2000, was granted class-action status in not been considered by the courts,” he continued, “and 2004, a decision that was upheld in 2007. If that decision we believe the experiences alleged by the six individuals Moody’s Investors Services were to be overturned, it would mean workers would have who brought this suit are not representative of the experi- to proceed with individual actions against the world’s larg- ences of our female associates. Wal-Mart is a good place 3.6 percent to 1.15 billion euros, or $1.69 billion, al- est retailer rather than as a class of current and former for women to work and fosters female leadership among though at constant exchange they were flat, boost- employees encompassing at least 1.5 million women. our associates and in the larger business world.” ed by retail acquisitions in Mexico and Australia. As lead plaintiff, Dukes claimed she was denied op- Gearhart’s predecessor as general counsel, Tom Mars, Fourth-quarter net profits fell to 100,000 euros, or portunities for advancement based on her gender. was appointed to the new post of executive vice president $131,883, from 12.3 million, or $17.8 million, on sales Wal-Mart had unsuccessfully argued against class-ac- and chief administrative officer of its namesake stores in that dipped 1.6 percent to 282.1 million, or $372 tion certification, stating the size of the class would make the U.S. with responsibility for the oversight of human million. Dollar figures are converted at average ex- it unmanageable and that the individual experiences of resource functions including diversity, compensation, tal- change rates for the periods to which they refer. the original plaintiffs weren’t indicative of Wal-Mart’s ent development and employment practices and policies, Safilo chairman Vittorio Tabacchi described 2008 working environment and policies. as well as corporate compliance. as “a year of profound change and a turning point Friday’s decision calls for the class-action matter to be Calls to several of the plaintiffs’ attorneys weren’t re- for the eyewear sector” after years of growth. subject to “en banc” review, larger than the three-judge turned over the weekend. “The areas of our business most hit by the slow- panel that had heard recent arguments. — Arnold J. Karr and Evan Clark down in demand and which have been downsized in terms of value and frequency of purchase have, without doubt, been high-end products and sun- glasses in particular,” Tabacchi said. Carlos Falchi with his He added that profits had been dented by “the Falchi Launches Men’s in N.Y. men’s designs. impossibility in the short term” to scale down sig- nificantly industrial and other fixed costs in the After 37 years in the handbag business, designer context of reduced production volumes. Carlos Falchi is applying his signature style to bags for American Looking ahead, Tabacchi said: “There is much men. For years, retailers and male friends asked Falchi for multiples work to be done during this year but the group is of the custom designs he always made for himself, he said, and a few firmly committed to continuing with determina- years ago he gave in, but only in Japan. The men’s collection now tion all the projects already begun or under devel- launching in the U.S. features plenty of Falchi’s exotic skins, but not opment, which will allow Safilo to overcome the as much color as the women’s — just black, brown, red and green — difficult market situation and emerge with a com- and no signature collages for now. pany which is stronger and more competitive.” “My idea was to bring in the mixing of the materials and also Safilo’s majority shareholder Only 3T SpA said make it younger and fresher, with attention to men who are antibag. last month it had contacted a few potential part- For Europeans it’s natural to carry a bag, but American men are ners — thought to include private equity funds just starting,” he said. Bain Capital, Apax Partners and CVC Capital The skins include crocodile, alligator, python, ostrich and Partners — with a view toward strengthening and buffalo. Many of the exteriors are a combination of canvas and developing the group. According to sources, talks skin, in consideration of the large dimensions preferred by have since stalled as the Tabacchi family, which American men. owns 39.8 percent of Safilo through Only 3T, does

Prices for the messengers, totes, duffels and laptop carriers MITRA not want to relinquish a controlling interest in the range from $3,000 to $32,000. (The top of the range is for an alligator eyewear firm, even though this implied an unreal- duffel.) istic valuation of its stake in the current climate. All Carlos Falchi products are handmade at the designer’s fac- Italian media have speculated that Safilo’s tory on 39th Street. management was working on a plan to delist the

— Jean Scheidnes ROBERT PHOTO BY company from the Milan Bourse. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2009 27 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE Designer shoes/boots $125-150K BOE. Current exp in design thru to final FOR SALE prod devel req’d. Sketching, specing. Regional Sales Managers Contents of Apparel Manufacturer’s Must have exp in China. Will travel to Warehouse for sale. Cutting, shipping, China 4-6 times a year. Experienced sales person sample room & office equipment. [email protected] 973-564-9236 responsible for launching Call: 631-231-7876 Dir. Fine Jewelry & Accessories web-based registration, vid- ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE The Venetian/Palazzo Resort locat- Neckwear Designer Premium Women’s & Men’s Apparel Freelancer eo & ecommerce products ed in Las Vegas, NV. seeks exp’d. Looking for candidate w/proven track for the wholesale apparel, Brand seeks industry leading 214 W 29th St buyer to purchase designer jewelry, record of designing wovens.Work by accessory & gift markets. account executives to support fashion jewelry, watches & designer phone and email. Email resume, exam- No cap on earnings. Apply growth in top-tier Mens & Women’s Just Steps to Penn Station ples and rates to [email protected]. accessories. 5yrs min. exp. buying at: www.retailregistry.com specialty retailers in the U.S. Units from Patterns/Samples/Production jewelry. Overseas Opportunity Minimum five years experience Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Sr Buyer - Retail selling premium apparel with 2,500 Sq. Ft. Gowns custom made & wholesale. Jewelry Seeking an exp’d. Sr. Buyer of ap- Fashion jewelry manufacturer seeks established boutique buyers in the Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 parel to develop, select & purchase ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Northwest M/W, Midwest M/W, to 8,000 Sq. Ft. managing director for factory opera- NYC based Women’s woven/knit co. men’s & women’s clothing, child- tions and business development. seeks sales person to bring in new cus- and Southeast M regions. •Minimum 10 years experience in the tomer & take over est’d customer. Harve Schuster, SrVP ren’s apparel, logo accessories & jewelry industry. For immediate consideration, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, other related products. 3-5yrs min. w/min. 5 yrs exp. Email resume to: PRODUCTIONS •Good working knowledge of the pro- [email protected] please forward an updated resume 212-696-7119 of product develoment exp. req. duction process of jewelry products along with salary history to: All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Email your resume to: (e.g. casting, plating, etc.) www.walter&samuels.com Call Sherry 212-719-0622. •Have experience/relationships with Sales Exec. $200 +++ Min 5 yrs current [email protected] [email protected] US retailers for private label. exp in young mens accessories or •Requires relocation to Qingdao, Chi- young mens casual sprtswr req’d. Priv PATTERNS, SAMPLES, na. 3-4 weeks vacation will be provid- label. Popular priced. Los Angeles ed for leisure travel. based req’d. Company will not relo. Sales Reps for Etienne PRODUCTIONS Accessories Company seeks We provide a great compensation Will lead to CEO position for aggressive Full service shop to the trade. Production Manager package for the right candidate includ- indiv w/ desire to become CEO in 3-4 Aigner Eyewear Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. ing living expenses in China. Please years. 65 mill vol company. Mid west/ west coast/ south west/ FL/ Apparel & Footwear email resumes with cover letter to: [email protected] 973-564-9236 northern east/ Etienne Aigner Eyewear Manage staff to meet company goals & [email protected]. is looking for experienced sales reps WALTER & SAMUELS obj. Daily comm w/factories for progress with established account lists to intro- of samples, Manage & negotiate costs Planner to $95K Walmart proficient. SALES KEY ACCOUNT EXEC - $$ Open . duce our line of sunglasses and read- w/factories. WM/Target experience pre- Strong exp in planning for private label Current exp in private label Jr knit tops ers. Email resume and cover letter ferred. Please send resumes & salary apparel co dealing with Retail Link, or private label missy blouses. Must to:[email protected] Search req to: [email protected] Walmart 3-5 years min exp. have current relationship w/ Target or Showrooms & Lofts [email protected] 973-564-9236 BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Kohls or Walmart or JC Penney req’d. BOOKKEEPER F/C $60-65K. Current [email protected] 973-564-9236 VP SALES Great ’New’ Office Space Avail hundreds of exp in apparel or software accessory co Production Coord., Headwear ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 NY base moderate women sportswear reqd. Queens loc. Will have duties com- Premier Wholesale Company seeks a co. seeking VP of SALES. Individual positions in parable to controller. Good work history Production Coordinator. Comm w/ over- SALESPERSON must have strong contact with dept [email protected] 973-564-9236 seas factories. Track prod & delivery Fast growing leather handbag line store and specialty chains. Must be status, send tech packs to factories, track needs salesperson for showroom. able to bring in new clients & take fashion, retail & follow up on samples, etc. Maintain Email resume to: [email protected], over existed client base. Opportunity CONTROLLER $115-125K. Current weekly shipping status reports & related strong exp in apparel co required CPA or fax 212-730-2372. to grow. References required. resp.Wal-Mart/ Target Exp a plus. Email resume to: [email protected] and beauty. required. Will manage 25 indivs. North Please send resume & salary req to: Excellent Event Space Central NJ loca tion. Will report to CFO. [email protected] Available Long/Short Term [email protected] 973-564-9236 SOHO, Manhattan SPORTSWEAR TECH peprealestate.com Credit & Collection Manager To $75K. 212-925-3280 x100 Min 2 year experience for NJ based co. Current exp in all aspects of credit & col- Please fax resume to: lection for apparel or accessory co reqd. 201-867-7789 Must have good work history.Queens loc. [email protected] 973-564-9236 TECH ASST/ADMIN Designer $100-125K BOE. Strong cur- NY sourcing co seeks person w/ 1 yr+ exp rent exp in girls newborn. Must hang in fitting ladies garments along w/ prod’n with Ralph Lauren, Polo, Tommy knowl. & comp. skills. Strong follow up Hilfiger, Quiksilver, J. Crew etc. req’d. Work w/ buyers + overseas offices. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Fax/Email resumes to 212-683-4053 [email protected] Designer $100-125K BOE. Strong exp in boys infant toddler. Must hang with VIGOSS Ralph Lauren, Polo, Tommy Hilfiger, Professional chargeback for Dept. Quiksilver, J. Crew etc. Stores. Pl fax resume to (212) 764-6688 [email protected] 973-564-9236 or e-mail to: [email protected] David & Victoria Filippo Beckham Magnini WWD Feb16 Wrap Armani Covers3-4.qxp 2/4/09 5:03 PM Page 2

GIORGIO ARMANI CORPORATION 114 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, NY 10011 T. 212.209.3595 F.212.209.3795 WWD MONDAY - OVERSIZED COVER WRAP (4C) POSITION: Cover 3 ISSUE: 2-16-2009 DUE DATE: 2-3-2009 TRIM: 10.875" x 14.75" BLEED: 11.125" X 15" SPECS: DIGITAL WWD Feb16 Wrap Armani Covers3-4.qxp 2/4/09 5:03 PM Page 1

GIORGIO ARMANI CORPORATION 114 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, NY 10011 T. 212.209.3595 F.212.209.3795 WWD MONDAY - OVERSIZED COVER WRAP (4C) POSITION: Back Cover ISSUE: 2-16-2009 DUE DATE: 2-3-2009 TRIM: 10.875" x 14.75" BLEED: 11.125" X 15" SPECS: DIGITAL