Deco-Lletage Casey Spooner of Fischerspooner DESIGNERS CHANNEL the ART DECO YEARS for FALL’S PRETTIEST Goes Solo — for Now
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
Plus: CASEY AT BAT See Style Deco-lletage Casey Spooner of Fischerspooner DESIGNERS CHANNEL THE ART DECO YEARS FOR FALL’S PRETTIEST goes solo — for now. — AND MOST REVEALING — LINGERIE. SEE STYLE, PAGE 4. Page 18 men’s collections MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 PARIS WWD fall 2011 TIME AS LUXURY Expensive Watches Boom As Investors Rush In By JOELLE DIDERICH GENEVA — At a time when curren- director of Van Cleef & Arpels. cies are seesawing and treasury “They want to buy something that markets are rattled by fears of a not only provides gratification at the European government debt default, time of purchase, but is also going to a limited edition tourbillon or chro- stand the test of time,” he added. nograph is looking not only chic, Van Cleef & Arpels is banking but also like a clever investment. on an exhibition of its jewels, to be Brands showing at the SIHH held from Feb. 18 to June 5 at the watch fair here, from Jan. 17 to 21, Cooper-Hewitt National Design were keen to emphasize the, well, Museum in New York City, to bol- timelessness of their offerings, ster clients’ perception that they ahead of what some experts pre- are buying into a piece of history. dict will be a record year for Swiss There is a more prosaic reason watch exports. for picking up haute horlogerie “The clients who are ready to timepieces. With the cost of gold resume making very significant and other raw materials steadily purchases want to know exactly rising, most brands are planning what they are buying and to be reas- price increases in 2011, guarantee- sured about the investment value of ing that fi ne watches will appreci- the product,” said Nicolas Bos, vice ate in value almost instantly. president and worldwide creative SEE STYLE, PAGE 19 IN WWD TODAY An Intimate Look/Style PAGES 1 TO 17 INNERWEAR: A glimpse at the market, from the Oprah Effect to a slew of new brands to celebrities’ favorite intimates gift. Intermix Heads North PAGE 2 RETAIL: The specialty store chain plans to open its fi rst store in Canada – and eyes further expansion. Fashion Firms Less Bullish PAGE 3 FINANCIAL: The Jones Group Inc. is the latest in a string of fashion companies to be hit by high inventories and disappointing same-store sales — stirring caution about 2011. The Naomi Campbell Back in Court PAGE 3 NEWS: The supermodel — or at least her lawyers — head to a New York courtroom Thursday in an alleged breach of contract case. L FallPARIS — A focus on tailoring — but inGuy soft, comfortable incarnations — defi ned the Paris men’s wear season, which wound up Sunday. At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz and wingman Lucas Ossendrijver mixed the sartorial and the technical in a sophisticated way. Here, one of their sloping, double-breasted suits, in the color of the season: gray. For more on the Paris season, see pages 4 to 6. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 Old Navy, Ann Taylor Look Toward Summer By DAVID MOIN es and cover-ups. All items were under $40. “It’s definitely about NEW YORK — For the summer clean, bright colors and crisp season, Ann Taylor is taking some patterns,” Hinson said. risks and adding variety, while Old Ann Taylor, which held its sum- Navy is emphasizing bold colors mer preview at the Glasshouses on and crisp patterns in sync with its West 25th Street, draws inspiration perennial casual, upbeat attitude. from Frida Kahlo and how she lay- “We were inspired by the ered and accessorized in the spirit idea of road trips, whether it’s of true Mexican craftwork. The a family vacation or a single collection also displayed an eased- dude heading to Las Vegas. It’s up attitude that’s polished and about freedom, and hitting the put together, a casual-chic side. open road,” said Chad Hinson, Certain outfits exhibit “a tension,” creative director for marketing depending on how they’re put to- at Old Navy. “There is such an gether, explained Lisa Axelson, se- A new ad from Intermix. optimism about summer.” nior vice president of design. He was interviewed at the One example she highlighted retail Old Navy showroom on Sixth was a tailored blazer with a spar- Avenue, which was adorned kling tank, shown with shorts. with retro travel posters of Another surprising combination spots such as the Grand Canyon features a very feminine embroi- Intermix in Expansion Mode and the Cedar Point amusement dered pencil skirt paired with a park in Ohio to set the mood for long silk tunic top. Ann Taylor By SHARON EDELSON Intermix’s entire assortment. “We realized that the men’s, women’s and kids also showed a black jumpsuit we had to cut back on the number of vendors we merchandise displayed. Among that seemed a little daring for NEW YORK — Intermix is spreading its multi- carry,” he said. “We cut back 30 percent of our the outfits were a one-piece the collection, though Axelson designer wings. stockkeeping units on average and increased polka dot swimsuit with a tropi- noted it would be sold only in The retailer’s first international store, a depth by 50 percent. It’s very risky. We profiled our cal print sarong and V-neck car- urban locations. Ann Taylor will 2,500-square-foot flagship on Bloor Street in customer after 17 years. Our customer is older. I digan, and a banded, gathered also offer more color for sum- Toronto, will bow in the fall, and a Canadian rollout needed to know how much of our assortment skirt with a printed chiffon tank mer, such as fuchsia, tangerines is planned. would satisfy women in their 40s, 50s and 60s. We and long knit vest seen in the and aquatics; an expanded brid- “Why shouldn’t we be in every international weren’t able to get all of her wallet. Now we’ve got “summer nights” group. There al offering, and jewelry with an city in Canada?” said Khajak Keledjian, chief ex- her back into full wardrobing. We’ve done it by lo- were plenty of cropped shorts artisanal, slightly antique feel. ecutive officer of Intermix. “After that, it will be calizing, finding things for her lifestyle.” with cuffs and bottoms with “The customer certainly likes easier to go to Western Europe.” Intermix’s core customer is in her 30s. drawstrings, as well as sunglass- variety,” Axelson said. Intermix will open six to eight stores this year, An advertising campaign that will be featured including a 2,700-square-foot unit in Greenwich, on the Intermix Web site, in stores and on bill- Ann Taylor Conn., this spring and a 2,800-square-foot shop boards and taxi cabs was created by Orphan, a in the Meatpacking District here in the fall. New York-based creative agency. It features styl- Other growth opportunities include men’s-only ized close-ups of models highlighted with bold stores. “Not a day goes by that I’m not asked to do streaks of color. There’s also a new quarterly men’s,” Keledjian said. look book. “We spent millions rebranding the Intermix did $100 million in sales last year, stores,” Keledjian said. “It was a huge initia- a strong, double-digit increase over 2009, tive for 24 stores and the Web site. There’s the n Keledjian said. “We had a great fourth quarter signage, shopping bags, labels and hangtags.” KSo eric revenue-wise, but it was questionable in terms of Intermix’s logo was redesigned with the first four yle margins,” he admitted. Intermix’s 24 units aver- letters in thin line type and the “mix” in bold. K by age $1,500 in sales per square foot, he said. The Intermix founder blamed decreased mar- y AV “We felt the pain of the economy,” said gins on department stores forcing designers to n Keledjian. “For the last year and a half, we’ve ship early in the season, only to have the styles D ol been in turnaround mode.” languish on the racks. “It gets marked down, and ; Intermix in October hired Adrienne Lazarus, I lose margins,” he said. “I’m not going to be bul- ino a former president of AnnTaylor Stores Corp., lied into buying early.” Keledjian said he’s work- AQU for the new position of president. “She’s an op- ing on doing exclusives with designers and buy- ohn J by portunistic merchant,” Keledjian said. “I’d never ing collections he believes in. “We collaborated run a business the size of the business I’m run- with Sergio Rossi and Cushnie et Ochs. I love hoto ning. I started the company when I was 19.” Helmut Lang and Rag & Bone, and I like the new P One of Lazarus’ briefs was to get a bet- Rachel Zoe collection. It’s highly styled, good ylor A t ter understanding of the Intermix customer. quality and a great value. The fact that she’s a Old Navy nn Focus groups she held led Keledjian to rethink stylist resonates with us.” A daily Quote today on wwd.com To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. ■ MEN’S WEEK: See the latest men’s fall WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. collections from Paris at WWD.com/fashion- COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 201, NO. 15. Monday, January, 24, 2011 WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is The best lingerie shows-reviews.