Plus: CASEY AT BAT See Style Deco-lletage Casey Spooner of Fischerspooner DESIGNERS CHANNEL THE ART DECO YEARS FOR FALL’S PRETTIEST goes solo — for now. — AND MOST REVEALING — LINGERIE. SEE STYLE, PAGE 4. Page 18

men’s collections MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 PARIS WWD fall 2011 TIME AS LUXURY Expensive Watches Boom As Investors Rush In

By JOELLE DIDERICH

GENEVA — At a time when curren- director of Van Cleef & Arpels. cies are seesawing and treasury “They want to buy something that markets are rattled by fears of a not only provides gratification at the European government debt default, time of purchase, but is also going to a limited edition tourbillon or chro- stand the test of time,” he added. nograph is looking not only chic, Van Cleef & Arpels is banking but also like a clever investment. on an exhibition of its jewels, to be Brands showing at the SIHH held from Feb. 18 to June 5 at the watch fair here, from Jan. 17 to 21, Cooper-Hewitt National Design were keen to emphasize the, well, Museum in New York City, to bol- timelessness of their offerings, ster clients’ perception that they ahead of what some experts pre- are buying into a piece of history. dict will be a record year for Swiss There is a more prosaic reason watch exports. for picking up haute horlogerie “The clients who are ready to timepieces. With the cost of gold resume making very significant and other raw materials steadily purchases want to know exactly rising, most brands are planning what they are buying and to be reas- price increases in 2011, guarantee- sured about the investment value of ing that fi ne watches will appreci- the product,” said Nicolas Bos, vice ate in value almost instantly. president and worldwide creative SEE STYLE, PAGE 19

IN WWD TODAY

An Intimate Look/Style PAGES 1 TO 17 INNERWEAR: A glimpse at the market, from the Oprah Effect to a slew of new brands to celebrities’ favorite intimates gift.

Intermix Heads North PAGE 2 RETAIL: The specialty store chain plans to open its fi rst store in Canada – and eyes further expansion.

Fashion Firms Less Bullish PAGE 3 FINANCIAL: The Jones Group Inc. is the latest in a string of fashion companies to be hit by high inventories and disappointing same-store sales — stirring caution about 2011. The Naomi Campbell Back in Court PAGE 3 NEWS: The supermodel — or at least her lawyers — head to a New York courtroom Thursday in an alleged breach of contract case. L

FallPARIS — A focus on tailoring — but inGuy soft, comfortable incarnations — defi ned the Paris men’s wear season, which wound up Sunday. At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz and wingman Lucas Ossendrijver mixed the sartorial and the technical in a sophisticated way. Here, one of their sloping, double-breasted suits, in the color of the season: gray. For more on the Paris season, see pages 4 to 6.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 Old Navy, Ann Taylor Look Toward Summer By DAVID MOIN es and cover-ups. All items were under $40. “It’s definitely about NEW YORK — For the summer clean, bright colors and crisp season, Ann Taylor is taking some patterns,” Hinson said. risks and adding variety, while Old Ann Taylor, which held its sum- Navy is emphasizing bold colors mer preview at the Glasshouses on and crisp patterns in sync with its West 25th Street, draws inspiration perennial casual, upbeat attitude. from Frida Kahlo and how she lay- “We were inspired by the ered and accessorized in the spirit idea of road trips, whether it’s of true Mexican craftwork. The a family vacation or a single collection also displayed an eased- dude heading to Las Vegas. It’s up attitude that’s polished and about freedom, and hitting the put together, a casual-chic side. open road,” said Chad Hinson, Certain outfits exhibit “a tension,” creative director for marketing depending on how they’re put to- at Old Navy. “There is such an gether, explained Lisa Axelson, se- A new ad from Intermix. optimism about summer.” nior vice president of design. He was interviewed at the One example she highlighted retail Old Navy showroom on Sixth was a tailored blazer with a spar- Avenue, which was adorned kling tank, shown with shorts. with retro travel posters of Another surprising combination spots such as the Grand Canyon features a very feminine embroi- Intermix in Expansion Mode and the Cedar Point amusement dered pencil skirt paired with a park in Ohio to set the mood for long silk tunic top. Ann Taylor By SHARON EDELSON Intermix’s entire assortment. “We realized that the men’s, women’s and kids also showed a black jumpsuit we had to cut back on the number of vendors we merchandise displayed. Among that seemed a little daring for NEW YORK — Intermix is spreading its multi- carry,” he said. “We cut back 30 percent of our the outfits were a one-piece the collection, though Axelson designer wings. stockkeeping units on average and increased polka dot swimsuit with a tropi- noted it would be sold only in The retailer’s first international store, a depth by 50 percent. It’s very risky. We profiled our cal print sarong and V-neck car- urban locations. Ann Taylor will 2,500-square-foot flagship on Bloor Street in customer after 17 years. Our customer is older. I digan, and a banded, gathered also offer more color for sum- Toronto, will bow in the fall, and a Canadian rollout needed to know how much of our assortment skirt with a printed chiffon tank mer, such as fuchsia, tangerines is planned. would satisfy women in their 40s, 50s and 60s. We and long knit vest seen in the and aquatics; an expanded brid- “Why shouldn’t we be in every international weren’t able to get all of her wallet. Now we’ve got “summer nights” group. There al offering, and jewelry with an city in Canada?” said Khajak Keledjian, chief ex- her back into full wardrobing. We’ve done it by lo- were plenty of cropped shorts artisanal, slightly antique feel. ecutive officer of Intermix. “After that, it will be calizing, finding things for her lifestyle.” with cuffs and bottoms with “The customer certainly likes easier to go to Western Europe.” Intermix’s core customer is in her 30s. drawstrings, as well as sunglass- variety,” Axelson said. Intermix will open six to eight stores this year, An advertising campaign that will be featured including a 2,700-square-foot unit in Greenwich, on the Intermix Web site, in stores and on bill- Ann Taylor Conn., this spring and a 2,800-square-foot shop boards and taxi cabs was created by Orphan, a in the Meatpacking District here in the fall. New York-based creative agency. It features styl- Other growth opportunities include men’s-only ized close-ups of models highlighted with bold stores. “Not a day goes by that I’m not asked to do streaks of color. There’s also a new quarterly men’s,” Keledjian said. look book. “We spent millions rebranding the Intermix did $100 million in sales last year, stores,” Keledjian said. “It was a huge initia- a strong, double-digit increase over 2009, tive for 24 stores and the Web site. There’s the n Keledjian said. “We had a great fourth quarter signage, shopping bags, labels and hangtags.” KSo eric revenue-wise, but it was questionable in terms of Intermix’s logo was redesigned with the first four yle

margins,” he admitted. Intermix’s 24 units aver- letters in thin line type and the “mix” in bold. K by

age $1,500 in sales per square foot, he said. The Intermix founder blamed decreased mar- y AV

“We felt the pain of the economy,” said gins on department stores forcing designers to n

Keledjian. “For the last year and a half, we’ve ship early in the season, only to have the styles D ol been in turnaround mode.” languish on the racks. “It gets marked down, and ; Intermix in October hired Adrienne Lazarus, I lose margins,” he said. “I’m not going to be bul- ino a former president of AnnTaylor Stores Corp., lied into buying early.” Keledjian said he’s work- AQU for the new position of president. “She’s an op- ing on doing exclusives with designers and buy- ohn J by portunistic merchant,” Keledjian said. “I’d never ing collections he believes in. “We collaborated run a business the size of the business I’m run- with Sergio Rossi and Cushnie et Ochs. I love hoto ning. I started the company when I was 19.” Helmut Lang and Rag & Bone, and I like the new P One of Lazarus’ briefs was to get a bet- Rachel Zoe collection. It’s highly styled, good ylor A t ter understanding of the Intermix customer. quality and a great value. The fact that she’s a

Old Navy nn

Focus groups she held led Keledjian to rethink stylist resonates with us.” A

daily Quote today on wwd.com To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. ■ MEN’S WEEK: See the latest men’s fall WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. collections from Paris at WWD.com/fashion- COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 201, NO. 15. Monday, January, 24, 2011 WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is The best lingerie shows-reviews. published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in ■ FASHION: See the latest pre-fall collections May, June, November and December, two additional issues in February, March, April and August and three additional issues in September and October) by Fairchild Fashion gifts are a and accessories at WWD.com/fashion-news. Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: ■ EYESCOOP: See Fashion Rehab: Black & 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast:

D S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., r White at WWD.com/eyescoop. combination of A President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief ■ RETAIL: See more looks from Ann Taylor Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. and Old Navy’s summer collections at WWD. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax

hine Ach Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses sweet and slutty.” P com/retail-news. to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS

Del ■ BUSINESS: More financial news and daily CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR . — Maggie Q. Style, page 2 A look from the stock movements at WWD.com/business-news. SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please John Galliano show. write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Photo by Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your coming this week WEDNESDAY: Pitti Filati and ■ Dallas Market and year-end sales subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new Prima Moda Tessuto, Florence, Center Women’s, and earnings. subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Italy (through Friday). Children’s & Men’s Market FRIDAY: São Paulo Fashion and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. MONDAY: Paris Spring For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For Haute Couture Collections ■ JFW International Fashion (through Sunday). Week, São Paulo, Brazil reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at sales@ (through Thursday). Fair, Tokyo (through Friday). ■ Destination Maternity (through Feb. 2). scoopreprintsource.com. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion ■ International Jewelry Tokyo Corp. reports first-quarter Group magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we TUESDAY: The Conference and Tokyo Design & Fashion sales and earnings. SATURDAY: Stylemax, believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, Board releases the Watch Fair (through Saturday). ■ Procter & Gamble Co. Chicago (through Jan. 31). please advise us at P. O .Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F,OR FOR DAMAGE Consumer Confidence reports second-quarter AltaRomaAltaModa, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT Report for January. THURSDAY: Fashion Industry sales and earnings. Rome, Italy (through Feb. 1). NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED ■ Coach Inc. reports Gallery Women’s Apparel & ■ Columbia Sportswear Co. MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO second-quarter sales Accessories Market, Dallas and Under Armour SUNDAY: The Chicago SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS and earnings. (through Saturday). Inc. report fourth-quarter Collective (through Feb. 1). SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 3 WWD.COM cElEBRITY MEMO PAD

ART OF MARRIAGE: Isabel and Ruben Toledo have never been ones to seek the Naomi Campbell Back in Court limelight, but PBS has turned its cameras on the husband and wife designers for a new program called “The Artist Toolbox.” Host and director John Jacobsen visited the pair in By ALeXAnDRA SteigRAD Naomi Campbell their eclectic Tin Pan Alley loft for the segment, which will air in New York on Feb. 3. Not surprisingly, the Toledos’ views vary when it comes to what is art. Isabel Toledo defined it neW YoRk — come thursday, naomi campbell will be back in a place she’s come as feeling, whereas her husband pinned it on spirit. “With my art, I can’t even see spirit. to know well over the years: a courtroom. I feel things and then I somehow give it form and give it shape,” she said. Lawyers representing Moodform As for Ruben Toledo, he said, “To discover something is an art, that is [being] Mission, a cosmetics firm started by an artist.” campbell’s former agent, carole White, Jacobsen is also going behind the scenes with other artistic types, including musician are taking the supermodel to court for a John Legend, actor Tom Skerritt and writer Isabel Allende. — RoSemARY FeITelBeRg ruling in an alleged breach of contract case. Moodform’s lawyer, Dan Bright of Schwartz, Lichten & Bright, is looking for a BATTLE OF WORDS: After untold scholarly citations and umpteen colorful historical dismissal of campbell’s countersuit, which references — The green movement, Red Shirts — Malcolm Gladwell and New York claims White misrepresented her role in University professor Clay Shirky are still in a deadlock over the question: Do social the company. Bright will also ask the judge media make protests possible? The two won’t let this one die. to review the affidavits of campbell, her last october, gladwell penned a 4,000-word response to Shirky’s 2008 book manager Bruno Michel and her u.k. law- (“Here Comes everybody: The Power of organizing Without organizations”) for The New yer gideon Benaim for perjury. White, who claims she helped develop a Yorker. “The evangelists of social media” — Shirky, for example — “don’t understand line of fragrances for campbell, provided a this distinction; they seem to believe that a Facebook friend is the same as a real

recording of her 2006 meeting with Michel im Jenkins friend,” gladwell wrote. Shirky came back to defend his book in the January/February t and Benaim, which she contends contra- edition of Foreign Affairs, reaffirming “The Political Power of Social media” with a dicts the trio’s affidavits. few thousand words of his own. gladwell’s “critique is correct but not central to the the case, which was filed in october Photo by question of social media’s power,” he wrote. 2009 in the Supreme court of new York State, will go before Judge Judith gische, case will go into discovery and attorneys In the march/April issue of FA, the fight roars on. The two have side-by-side who presided over the high-profile divorce will meet again to potentially settle the columns, but don’t share much more than the page. “[Shirky] has to convince readers of former new York city mayor Rudolph case before a trial date is set. that in the absence of social media, those uprisings would not have been possible,” giuliani and Donna Hanover. Moodform Mission is seeking $8 million says gladwell. “Here, the historical record of the last decade is unambiguous,” retorts if the summary judgment is denied, the in damages, not including other costs. Shirky. As one or the other said thousands of words ago, “Viva la revolución.” or, better yet: agree to disagree. — ZeKe TURNeR fInAncIAl BIG OOPS: last Tuesday, six editors were test-driving Bentleys in Ridgefield, Conn. “You know Tuesday was so slushy and icy. The roads were awful,” saidKate Winick, a senior editor for Worth magazine. She was driving a new convertible, the Continental gTC Speed 8011. Daily Beast books editor Lucas Wittmann was sitting in the back Retailers Sounding the Alarm? after two turns at the wheel. Winick was going 25 miles an hour up a hill, but lost the car into a skid when she swerved away from a UPS truck parked on the side of the By Vicki M. Young reported for october. December figures haven’t yet been released. road. “ ‘lost its bumper’ is the nice, passive-voice way of saying [what happened to the not eVen a month gone, and 2011 is al- After a strong kickoff to the holiday car],” she said, and nobody was hurt. The $250,000 Bentley had to be towed back ready proving problematic. season in november, same-store sales to New York. You would think the automaker would be upset. “No, the people from A string of fashion firms have revised landed south of analysts’ expectations in Bentley have been so lovely. You know, they deal with this stuff all time,” Winick said. fourth-quarter guidance in the last two December, and retail stocks, which grew “And I’ve been getting made fun of at the office, but it’s not the end of the world and weeks — with many warning along the 23.5 percent last year, have been in retreat hopefully not the end of my career.” The car will get mentioned in the forthcoming way that the consumer mood might not since. Last week, the S&P Retail index de- remain quite as buoyant as they hoped it clined 1 percent to 502.18 following a 0.5 green luxury issue of Worth. The crash, she said, will not. — Z.T. would after the sales boom early in the percent decline on Friday. the decline holiday shopping season. now that new since Jan. 1 is 1.1 percent. the Dow Jones Year’s hangovers are long gone, consum- industrial Average was up 0.7 percent to OBITUARY ers may once again be slamming their 11,871.84 last week and is ahead 2.5 per- wallets shut in the face of continuing high cent so far this year. unemployment, ongoing mortgage fore- of the 171 issues tracked by WWD, 42 closures and spiraling prices — on every- had increases last week versus 127 with Anita Bethel, FFG Photo Director thing from food to clothes to gasoline. the declines and two that were unchanged. neW YoRk — A wake will be held today at the M.A. connell Funeral Home in result is an inventory overhang for both Figuring prominently among the chal- Huntington Station, n.Y., for Fairchild Fashion group’s director of photography retailers and vendors. lenges for 2011 is the virtual certainty of and imaging, Anita Bethel, who died last week at age 57. the most recent was the Jones group price increases at the wholesale and retail An autopsy is being done to determine the cause and time of death for Bethel, inc., which late last week said fourth-quar- levels. At the cowen and co. consumer whose body was found in her new York apartment Friday. She was battling a second ter earnings are expected to land at 2 cents conference in new York earlier this month, bout with cancer at the time of her death, according to her sister,k athryn Bethel. a diluted share, below the 11 cents analysts emanuel chirico, chairman and chief exec- Born in Manhattan, Bethel spent her early years had expected and the same figure for the utive officer of Phillips-Van Heusen corp., living in oceanside on Long island before her fam- 2009 quarter. Shares of Jones fell $1.34, or said that during the second half of this year, ily moved to Rosedale, Queens. After studying at 9.7 percent, to $12.44 Friday. on their way “we’re seeing increases that are approach- Queens college, she worked briefly for the u.S. to the close, shares hit a new 52-week low ing 15 percent….clearly, we will pass on a Social Security Administration, before joining of $12.11. substantial portion of that. Fairchild’s advertising department in 1978. that through holiday, figures held up well “the question is: How will the u.S. con- post became a stint for the more artistically inclined for men’s wear firms and luxury concerns, sumer deal with that?” he said. Bethel, whose skills were soon put to better use in but Jones joins a growing list of companies Wesley card, Jones’ ceo, also pointed to the dark room. focused on the middle market stung by price increases as a concern. “the strength Before long, Bethel was named manager of the fourth-quarter shortfalls in sales, earnings in consumer spending and acceptance of photo department, where she oversaw the photogra- or both. Also on thursday, J. crew group price increases in 2011 remain uncertain,” phers’ numerous assignments, often offering her in- inc., preparing to be acquired by tPg he said in preparing investors for the earn- sight about who would be best matched for any given capital and Leonard green & Partners, ings shortfall when the company reports assignment. More of a den mother than dilettante, held to its earlier fourth-quarter earn- quarterly results on Feb. 9. “in addition, Bethel saw colleagues as her extended family and ings projections but said comparable-store continued cost inflation will present a sig- provided them with a sense of place. sales for the period would decline in the nificant challenge to margins.” Prone to speaking in the collective, Bethel un- midsingle digits rather than the low-single- card said sales in 2010 are expected to derstood the urgency of breaking news and accom- digit decline forecast earlier. the talbots rise 9.3 percent to $3.64 billion, while the modated without hesitation. expeditious as she inc. on Jan. 10 told Wall Street its loss for firm’s brands “are positioned to achieve was, she revelled in hearing the back story about the period would be larger than expect- net revenue growth in midsingle digits” shoots and news stories. Her competitive spirit ed, and Liz claiborne inc. brought down in the new year. But sounding a less than Anita Bethel and enthusiasm did not wane despite having can- estimates on Jan. 6, as it reported lower optimistic note, he said gross margins “can cer. But she would just as easily speak up should December comps at Juicy couture and be at 2010 levels.” any piece of news have left her wondering. Lucky Brand stores. John Mcclain, chief financial officer, WWD’s editor in chief edward nardoza said, “Day after day, season after sea- inventory discipline has been among the said the firm late last year “needed to sell son, Anita raised the standard of WWD’s photojournalism. All her co-workers saving graces of retail in the difficult period more into the off-price channel” to clear depended on her and she delivered time and again. Aside from this dedicated since the economic meltdown of September second-half inventories that grew on the professionalism, her instinctive warmth, easy smile and humor in the most dif- 2008. if sales failed to keep pace with inven- basis of first-half sales strength. “We are ficult, pressured situations made her a beloved friend and colleague.” tories in the final months of 2010, though, now well positioned with our inventory, kathryn Bethel, her only survivor, said, “even as a child, she would always that isn’t indicated in figures reported by and we have tightened our 2011 buy plans finish what she started. She was just a hard worker. But she also was one of the the commerce Department. the adjusted to a more conservative approach,” he said. kindest, gentlest people. there was nothing pretentious about her. no one was inventory-to-sales ratio among retailers for — With contributions from beneath her.” november was 1.34, a tick below the 1.35 Arnold J. KArr — r.f. 4 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 Soft Spot Dior Homme Paris was awash in fl uid tailoring, generous outerwear and a quiet approach to luxury. collections Dior Homme: Seven chandeliers, three fireplaces, two men’s French doors — and a collection that whispered chic refinement. Like the minimalist set reducing a grand Paris apartment to its essential elements, 2011 Kris Van Assche distilled his ideas into a statement PARISfall of austerity and pure design. “It’s comfortable luxury,” the designer said backstage. Seeking “fluidity” in a winter collection was a challenge Van Assche met with acres of cashmere, lots of knits and flowing, lightweight wools. Double-face cashmere coats, belted cardigans and shearling vests all had a robelike ease, worn over slouchy, full-legged pants. The plainness of the monochromatic layers — accentuated by thick-soled shoes and vaguely Amish hats — was broken only by a contrast lining here, a pop of tomato red there. Van Assche’s soft, quiet clothes are as calm as an empty room.

Lanvin: An interplay between technical sportswear and Paul Smith sartorial traditions — a running theme this season — pulsed throughout Lanvin’s collection. The opening wool trenchcoat, for instance, was lined with a performance fabric, while suits and coats had secret magnetic closures, allowing for uncluttered surfaces. White shirts worn over turtlenecks heightened the elegance. Utilitarian outerwear fused with tailoring, as in a detachable black puffer hugging the front of a suit like a life jacket. Silhouettes were divided: cropped bomber jackets with slim pants, or tubular jackets with wide trousers, which may prove tricky for the average carb-eating Joe to pull off. Evening jackets in berry shades and marigold silks added a more Yves Saint Laurent precious feel, without sliding into feminine territory. Givenchy

Yves Saint Laurent: Stefano Pilati gathered a medley of British music figures to witness his dalliance with Savile Row, and the Mod style that’s resonant still. Having already done the FOR MORE wider pants others are parading, MEN’S COVERAGE, SEE the designer made stovepipe trousers and hefty shoes the WWD.com/ MENSWEAR-NEWS. foundation for innovative jackets. Velvet trim, eyelash- shaped breast pockets, compact lapels and densely clustered Maison Junya buttons added a youthful verve Martin Watanabe to his trim tailoring, rendered Margiela in muted English patterns. Turtlenecks or band-collared shirts added pops of color. In a season of hefty outerwear, Pilati’s trapeze styles were especially handsome, some in luscious double-face cashmere. His lean topcoats with high Edwardian closures came in a close second.

John Galliano: Fashion’s greatest storyteller outdid himself with a collection that had the struggles, triumphs and artistry of its protagonist, Rudolf Nureyev, stitched into every exit. “The idea of hope, discipline, dreams — the way he fled Russia,” Galliano said during a preview, the walls of his studio plastered with images of the ballet legend. A pack of shivering Russian émigrés opened the show amidst a flurry of snowflakes, bundled in heavy, hand-me-down overcoats, their worldly possessions roped to their backs. The show traced Nureyev’s jet-setting years in the swinging Sixties, the sweat-soaked sacrifices in the rehearsal studios and, finally, glorious stage finery, tinged with Tatar elements. Along the way, Galliano hit the sweet spots of the season: beefy outerwear, chunky knits, cropped “bum freezer” blazers and touches of fur.

Hermès: Sumptuous fabrics did all the talking at Hermès, and softly tailored pieces in somber-yet-sophisticated shades shone. Updated classics were covetable, like a waterproof navy cashmere trenchcoat with detachable beaver collar or an array of navy blazers. The looks oozed comfort and versatility, with chunky cable knits, suits in chalk-striped seersucker and a run of body-hugging jackets in double-ply cashmere. Stabs at edgier fare — shearling pants or a Mapplethorpe-worthy leather jumpsuit, anyone? — fell flat. The simplest of garments resonate luxury at Hermès, and that is where the house should keep its focus. REMAINING MARIANNE FAITHFULL The singer sets the record straight. WWDSTYLE SEE PAGE 18 JANUARY 24, 2011

; FASHION ASSISTANTS: JACLYN SMITH AND VICTORIA WALTON; PHOTO ASSISTANT: CHACE PURGANAN PHOTO ASSISTANT: SMITH AND VICTORIA WALTON; JACLYN ASSISTANTS: ; FASHION Dream a Little Deco Dream

COM; MAKEUP: MIZU FOR MAYBELLINE NEW YORK AT SUSAN PRICE AT NEW YORK COM; MAKEUP: MIZU FOR MAYBELLINE What could be a fetching fl ashback is, in fact, a stunning reality as lingerie designers infuse their fall collections with a vintage- inspired ethos. Agent Provocateur’s nylon and elastane bra and gartered briefs, shown here over Moc’s high-waisted nylon, spandex and elastane bottoms, is proof that the look may just be better the second time around. See page 4.

STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN. PHOTOGRAPH BY KYLE ERICKSEN. MODEL: JENNIFER/RED; HAIR: ANDREW FITZSIMONS FOR ARTISTSBYIMOTHYPRIANO. 2 intimates Up Close andPersonal sexy inanunderstatedway.” cute, pretty, whimsicalandgirlywithoutbeingoverthetop.It’s from mysister[EmilyDeschanel].It’stheultimatebecauseit’s underwear “Last yearIgotStellaMcCartneydays-of-the-week tank top.” that’s sopretty.” “I loveLonelyHearts. Theyhavethisstrappybra strap peepsout,it’s likealittlesurprise.” wear asadress.Ialsoloveneon-bright lingerie,soifa —avintageslipthatIcouldalso is myfavoritegift “The firstpiecemyhusband,Alfonso, everboughtme WWD STYLE “Any ofmyLaPerla piecesaremyfavorite. And comfortable pajamas make the best gift.” And comfortablepajamasmakethe best gift.”

“I’ve been married for 20 years, so I “I’ve beenmarriedfor20years,soI MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 — CoreyLynn Calter buy for myself. I like comfortable, buy formyself.Ilikecomfortable, “My Agent Provocateur pink-and-black bra and pink-and-blackbraand “My AgentProvocateur sexy and tomboyish because I sexy andtomboyishbecauseI done withjustpretty.” like to feel youthful. I think the like tofeelyouthful.Ithinkthe it’s not coming home with me. I’m it’s notcominghomewithme.I’m Cosabella.” Cosabella.” only onedoingitrightnowis panties suits my personality: sweet and spicy panties suitsmypersonality:sweetandspicy an oldboyfriend:cheesy, scratchyand everwasfrom all atonce….Theworstgift comfortable and practical. If not, comfortable andpractical.Ifnot, than anyone else. It has to be than anyoneelse.Ithastobe because I know my body better because Iknowmybodybetter “I buyallmyownlingerie “I loveagoodbrafromLaPerla. it as a bachelorette joke.” it asabachelorettejoke.” uncomfortable allinone.Iregifted structure.” structure.” lingerie. Ineedsomethingwith I’m aDcup,soIcan’t wearflimsy — Samaire Armstrong can wear is a pair of tap pants with a can wearisapairoftappantswith — LisaEdelstein “I think the sexiest thing a girl “I thinkthesexiestthingagirl especially when it comes to fashion. Girls know especially whenitcomestofashion.Girlsknow — Paige Adams-Geller — Zooey Deschanel — ZooeyDeschanel how tomaketheirgirlfriendsfeelsexy.” leather lingerie, and I trust anything she says, anythingshesays, leather lingerie,andItrust — LubovAzria “Chloë Sevigny gave me some pretty sexy black “Chloë Sevignygavemesomeprettysexyblack “I love a good nightgown. I like to “I loveagoodnightgown.Iliketo — Georgina Chapman look pretty when I sleep.” look prettywhenIsleep.” — fromdays-of-the-week undiesto offer up their ultimate underthings offer uptheirultimateunderthings comfy-cozy pj’s. Leading celebrities and designers Leading celebritiesanddesigners slutty.” — PippaBlack “Marc Jacobs has this great “Marc Jacobshasthisgreat set of Fifties bloomers and a set ofFiftiesbloomersanda a combination of sweet and a combinationofsweetand “The best lingerie gifts are are “The bestlingeriegifts — Tarina Tarantino ruffly bra top that is so sexy bratopthatissosexy ruffly because it’s both covered up because it’sbothcoveredup and sheer. Andit’stotally useless. I think the more useless. Ithinkthemore “I loveagoodbustier. better itis.” useless lingerieis,the A blacklaceLaPerla one.” one.” — MaggieQ — Sharon Osbourne — SharonOsbourne — Abigail Spencer — AbigailSpencer — NicoleRichie

— MARCY MEDINA — GinniferGoodwin

RICHIE PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA; MAGGIE Q AND EDELSTEIN BY STEVE EICHNER; CHAPMAN BY SCOTT RUDD wacoal-america.com 4 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 intimates Ari Dein’s silk pajamas and Hanro’s wool and silk tank top.

Time Agaın There’s a certain sensuality about nostalgia. And in that mood, designers glance back and move forward for fall with new versions of bralettes, high-waisted briefs and, naturally, those classic men’s pajamas that will never look dated.

STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KYLE ERICKSEN. WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 5

Rick Owens’ mink vest, Jane De Lacey’s polyester and silk kimono, American Apparel’s cotton bandeau and Jill Zarin’s nylon, spandex and lace briefs over Wacoal’s nylon, spandex and cotton shorts. Soxland socks; La Duca shoes. E; FASHION ASSISTANTS: JACLYN SMITH AND VICTORIA WALTON; PHOTO ASSISTANT: CHACE PURGANAN PHOTO ASSISTANT: SMITH AND VICTORIA WALTON; JACLYN ASSISTANTS: E; FASHION

Silk bra and tulle briefs with soutache detail from La Perla Jean Paul Gaultier Collection Createur.

Between the Sheets’ cotton pajamas over American Apparel’s cotton bandeau. K Bell socks. MODEL: JENNIFER/RED; HAIR: ANDREW FITZSIMONS FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; MAKEUP: MIZU FOR MAYBELLINE NEW YORK AT SUSAN PRIC AT NEW YORK MAKEUP: MIZU FOR MAYBELLINE MODEL: JENNIFER/RED; HAIR: ANDREW FITZSIMONS FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; 6 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 intimates

COSABELLA

SHEER IRIDESSCENT

NK IMODE Forget Black

Because this is the season of reds, purples, greens and even grays — a trend that ODD MOLLY began on the runways and has now trickled down to our skivvies.

FROU FROU

AFFINITAS INTIMATES

EMPORIO ARMANI

LISA’S FOLLY LUXE

JEZEBEL

IN BLOOM BETSEY JOHNSON INTIMATES PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY

8 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 intimates

HANRO

UNFORESEEN CIRCUMSTANCES LA PERLA

ONLY HEARTS

LAVIT

BIATTA INTIMATES

JANE DE LACEY MARY GREEN

FLORA NIKROOZ COSABELLA AMORE PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY

LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235 NEW YORK 212.564.4710 WWW.KBELLSOCKS.COM

10 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 Biatta trade shows: Magic Booth# 74524 February 14th-16th • ILS Booth # 206-209 March 28th-30th intimates

ODD MOLLY

FANTASIE

ANTHROPOLOGIE

Flower Delivery Whether wild and abstract or delicately restrained, fl oral prints are in full bloom for fall. In fact, they might just be too pretty to cover up.

ONLY HEARTS

FAUVE biatta INTIMATES PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY

12 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 intimates

Q&A:Gillian Proctor Gillian Seamless Shape Wear Master Proctor Of Corsetry

THE CONTOUR FASHION B.A. at De Montfort University in Leicester, in England’s Midlands area, claims to offer the only course in the world leading to an undergraduate degree in contour fashion. In fact, the school has a history in the evo- lution of Britain’s lingerie industry, which originated in the region. The course was set up in 1947 by what its current instruc- tor, Gillian Proctor, calls “the movers and shakers” in the industry to train future corset designers and technicians. Now, the class turns out students with goals to start their own avant-garde labels or to work for a major innerwear brand. “Pretty much every lingerie label in the world will have had at some point a De Montfort University graduate, or several, on the team,” Men’s Body Sculptor said Proctor. “We work very hard to maintain our reputation.” Here, Proctor discusses the intricacies and rigors of the 64-year-old course. — NINA JONES

WWD: What qualities do you look for in prospective A look students? from Gillian Proctor: Foremost, we’re looking for students former who are passionate about the subject. We find that most student of the students who apply have a genuine interest from Lucy a historical point of view. We have students who have Habermehl. collected corsets for years and often because they have issues themselves in trying to find intimate apparel. We [also] look for students who can draw. Drawing is very important, because it’s the preliminary to any de- sign. We’re looking for students who have a good eye for color, for fabric and who have a really good under- standing of contemporary catwalk fashion — because intimate apparel, fabulous industry that it is, is driven by what happens from the outerwear silhouette.

WWD: What makes the course so special? G.P.: I think what sets us apart is we work entirely with the industry. We work with external clients, we Before work for branded labels, we work with established de- signers, we work with live projects. We have a finger on the button of what’s going on and who wants what. We’re constantly evolving the course so we fit in with why we were traditionally set up — to furnish the industry that we work with. It’s a great opportunity for students to explore and occasionally hamper their cre- ativity in order to fit the constraints or the demands or even the encouragement from any of the brands we work with.

WWD: What sort of projects do your stu- dents work on with lingerie labels? G.P.: It can be from a very tight commer- cial basis right through to the Triumph Inspiration Awards, which is something broad-based and very innovative. [The award invites students from a number of design colleges around the world to design a unique lingerie showpiece.] One of the things that companies know we can do is that our students are very technically able, After as well as aesthetically able. So they cover the technical aspects — spec drawing, CAD and working drawings for every sin- gle thing they do. Some of the companies come to us because it gives the company an opportunity to trial new fabrics or a new avenue for them, and some companies just like to give the students free rein and say, “Show us what you’ve got.” A piece by Nichola Tubbs, who WWD: What direction do your students also studied at De Montfort. take after they’ve graduated? G.P.: We have a 100 percent employment record, which during this day and age and in the current economic situa- tion is admirable. We’ve sent graduates this year to Eveden, Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie & Fitch, Clover, Next, John Lewis, Superdry and Heidi Klein. Probably 5 to 10 percent a year set up a business, but we have some significant companies [set up by graduates] — Made By Niki, Nichole de Carle, Lascivious and Obey My Demand. De Montfort is very lucky with our graduates. We do hit the high rollers consistently, which is nice.

Tel. 770-475-3045 WWD: Are there any male students on the course? G.P.: It’s largely female, [but] we currently have one boy on the course. At the Fax: 770-664-7208 moment, we just seem to appeal to the girls. We’re not averse to having boys; www.JulieFrance.com it’s just we don’t seem to have that many applicants at present. Lenzing AG, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria

The fiber brand for natural softness

Like no other fiber, Lenzing Modal® stands for pure luxury and absolute softness next to the skin. The fiber is made of beech wood which means it is 100% from Nature. Even after repeated washing, Lenzing Modal® remains wonderfully soft, absorbent and brightly colored.

www.lenzing.com/modal

14 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011

Oprah Winfrey’s show helped put

intimates a focus on plus-size fashion. large-size intimates, “There’s been a grow- Linda LoRe, presi- ing demand for plus-size dent of the Frederick’s shapewear and bras over The Oprah Effect·· of Hollywood Group the past five years,” said Inc., said: “It’s no se- Michele Martins-Crawbuck, cret America is getting divisional merchandise manag- By KARYN MONGET plus sizes as well. larger, with the average er of intimate apparel at Woman Despite the strong demand for dress size now being 14, Within, a retail division of THE PLUS-SIZE WOMAN can have plus-size undergarments cited by re- and more full- figured Redcats USA. “Customers really fashionable and sexy innerwear at last tailers and makers, the total plus-size women know their [in- didn’t feel good about themselves — and they can thank Oprah. intimates business was down 4.5 per- timate apparel] size. We because they didn’t have the of- “The Oprah Winfrey Show” began cent to $3.22 billion in the 12 months made a conscious effort ferings. We partnered with our featuring bra-fitting segments in through November, compared with over the past four to five factories and we now offer seam- 2005, and retailers and manufactur- plus-size apparel, which dipped 1.6 years to build the plus- less technology shapewear up to ers got the message that women with percent to $17.59 billion during the size and full-figure [bra 4X, which is hard to find.” fuller figures want innerwear that is and corset] business be- Woman Within sells plus-size comfortable and functional, but also cause of the plus-size cus- intimates bearing the Contour fashionable. Another impact on the tomer’s loyalty factor. This cus- Choice and Amoureuse labels category: red-carpet divas includ- There’s been a tomer wants to be treated the and just launched its propri- ing Jennifer Lopez, Queen Latifah, same as a woman who wears an etary Dreams & Co. brand. Fergie, Mo’Nique and Beyoncé, who growing demand for A- or B-cup bra. She wants fash- Vendors said the appetite have made it no secret that voluptuous ion colors, pretty fabrics and pat- for fashion merchandise contin- curves were chic and desirable. plus-size shapewear terns and seasonal bras and lingerie.” ues to build. Since 2005, the average dress Maureen Stabnau, senior vice Mary Alice Kelly, director of Eveden size in America has grown to 14 president of merchandising at Inc., the U.S. operation of London- from 12, while the average bra cup and bras over the barenecessities.com, agreed that plus- based Eveden Group, said, “We now do size has graduated to 36C from 34B size women demanded more style op- some styles [in] up to six fashion col- a decade earlier. As a result, major past five years. tions and the growth of the market ors and we rotate colors because we’ve bra brands such as Just My Size at caused vendors to come out with more found our customers want us to run the Hanesbrands; Warner’s and Olga at — MICHELE MARTINS- designs, including sports bras and same color [for] up to 18 months.” The Warnaco Group; Flexees and CRAWBUCK, WOMAN WITHIN deep plunge bras. She said the full- Kelly added that Eveden will Lilyette at Maidenform, and Wacoal figure sports bra business is projected launch a line of plus-size shapewear have responded to the growing de- to generate percentage sales gains at the February market for fall 2011 mand for larger sizes with broader as- same period, according to NPD Group. in the “midteens” this year. Brands called Elomi Curves. Gregory Gimble, sortments of cup sizes, in the D, DD or But two classifications in intimate ap- include Natori, Le Mystère, Shock vice president of Va Bien Inc., said larger range, as well as novelty styles parel are showing positive results: Absorber, Anita, Goddess, Elomi and plus-size intimates are a strong catego- such as strapless. Shapewear special- Sales of panties increased 3.4 percent Champion. Plus-size shapewear by Dr. ry for online retailers: “We have seen ists including Spanx, Rago, Va Bien, to $638.1 million, and shapewear post- Rey, Body Wrap, Bali, Annette, Va Bien our e-commerce and our specialty Body Wrap, Sassybax, DuMi, Shapeez, ed a 27.7 percent gain to $419.8 million. and ShaToBu are also “great growth store business grow considerably over Squeem and Cass have expanded into Addressing the popularity·· of categories.” the past few years.” SCOTT WINTROW/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES (SPX
ZPVS
CVTJOFTT
XJUI
UIF
MBUFTU
EFTJHOT
GSPN
(SFBUFS
$IJOB

HOME, YACHTING, SPA LINENS, "QSJM

 FURNISHING TEXTILES, UNDERWEAR LINGERIE COLLECTION PREVIEW "TJB8PSME&YQP )POH
,POH FEBRUARY 4 TO 6, 2011 FIRENZE FORTEZZA DA BASSO

FOR INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT: CAMERA DI COMMERCIO DI PISTOIA CORSO S. FEDI, 36 - 51100 PISTOIA (ITALY) TEL. +39 0573 991483 FAX +39 0573 991470 E-MAIL: [email protected] WWW.IMMAGINEITALIA.ORG ECCENTRIC DNA VM101461_CSF1104_US_TBOI_Feb11 4PVSDF
TUZMJTI
QSPEVDUT
BU
PVS
UBSHFUFE
TIPX 'JOE
OFYUTFBTPOμT
NVTUIBWFT
BU
UIF
$IJOB
4PVSDJOH
'BJS
6OEFSXFBS

4XJNXFBS
5IF
'BJS
XJMM
SFUVSO
PO
"QSJM


XJUI
BO
FYUFOTJWF
DPMMFDUJPO
PG
IPU
OFX
EFTJHOT
JO
UIFTF
DBUFHPSJFT
6OEFSXFBS
4MFFQXFBS
4XJNXFBS
CFBDIXFBS



'BCSJDT
MBDF

USJNNJOHT
BDDFTTPSJFT .FFU
GBDFUPGBDF
XJUI
JOWFOUJWF
$IJOB
TVQQMJFST 5IF
'BJS
JOUSPEVDFT
ZPV
UP
FYQPSURVBMJUZ
TVQQMJFST
GSPN
$IJOB

)POH
,POH
BOE
5BJXBO
5IFZ
DBO
PGGFS
ZPV
CFUUFS
QSJDF
QPJOUT
$PMPDBUFE
XJUI BOE
¿FYJCMF
QSPEVDUJPO
BOE
EFMJWFSZ
UFSNT
.FFU
UIFN
BMM
DPOWFOJFOUMZ
BU
UIF
'BJS 1FSGFDU
UJNF
GPS
TPVSDJOH
JO
)POH
,POH 5IF
'BJS
PQFOT
KVTU
CFGPSF
$BOUPO
'BJS
QIBTF

JO
(VBOH[IPV


4UBSU
ZPVS
TPVSDJOH
BU
UIF
$IJOB
4PVSDJOH
'BJS
UP
TFF
NPSF
QSPEVDUT
JO
UIF
TBNF
WJTJU

3FHJTUFS
OPX
GPS
GSFF
BENJTTJPO
BU 5SBEF
POMZ

OP
POF
VOEFS

BENJUUFE XXXDIJOBTPVSDJOHGBJSDPNDYJC 4USJDUMZ
OP
TBNQMF
PS
SFUBJM
TBMFT WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 15 intimates

prices for bras average $44, baby dolls are $83, undies sell for $25 and garters are $12.50. Hollywood Homage Houston’s newest collec- A Lauren tion for fall, called A Few of Bacall- My Favorite Things, is in- inspired By KARYN MONGET design ethic, Houston said: “I erated in England, Scotland, spired by Audrey Hepburn slip by use old-fashioned techniques Germany and Austria, as well and her role as Eliza Doolittle Gilda & IF MARILYN MONROE and like French seaming rather as on specialty e-commerce site in “My Fair Lady.” Pearl. Rita Hayworth were around than overlocking, bows that Figleaves.com. Houston said “There’s a lot of French today, they might just be addict- are hand-tied, lace appli- she is looking for a distributor leavers lace; deep shades ed to Gilda & Pearl lingerie. qués that are hand-sewn and and sales representative in the of purple, azalea pink, gor- The collection, after all, pays hand-covered buttons. I keep U.S., where she hopes to launch geous gold tones, and a sig- tribute to the femme fatale. a notebook of things that in- her label next fall. nature print of vintage robes Glasgow native Diane spire me.…It could be a fi lm Annual wholesale volume and baby dolls,” she said. “I’ll Houston launched the lux- or a piece of fabric.…I let was not available, but the also feature my fi rst personal- ury label in late 2008 for things set on my head a while brand is approaching $1 mil- ized bridal collection with big one simple reason: She has and then edit the concept.” lion, according to industry bows, eye masks, English lace been “enamored” with the The bulk of orders are gen- estimates. Suggested retail and monogrammed initials.”

glamour and sex appeal of ERICKSEN; MODEL: KELSEY CLOSE/MAJOR KYLE PHOTOS BY Hollywood’s leading ladies since she was a child. Key inspirations have been Monroe in “How to Marry a Millionaire,” Lauren Bacall in “The Big Sleep” and “Dark Passage” and Hayworth, who played the temptress in the film noir classic “Gilda,” which gives the fi rst half of the brand’s name. Houston also loves pearls because they “represent a preciousness,” and added Pearl to the name because “everything is handmade in the U.K. and each piece is as beautiful as a pearl.” Having studied ready-to- wear design at the London College of Fashion Design in the late Nineties, the 30-year- old designer said she devel- oped a passion for lingerie, but training and courses in the intimates fi eld were limited. “I’m really self-taught when it comes to lingerie,” she said. “I was very inspired by the character of Gilda with Rita Hayworth. The movie was ridiculously over the top and quite scandalous at the time. What also inspired me from the movie was the at- tention to detail, beading and luxurious fabrics that can transform a woman into an ultimate femme fatale.” Houston’s 40-piece linge- rie and sleepwear line has samples made in England and is hand-fi nished by her and four assistant designers and patternmakers at her studio in Glasgow. Describing her

The designer channeled Marilyn Monroe for this look. 16 intimates in the next five years,” Hossli told WWD, in thenextfiveyears,”HosslitoldWWD, up, “butwethinkitwillbenumberone ranks fourthinZimmerli’smarketline- such asSelfridges.TheU.S.currently prestigious pointsofsaleinEngland, Russia isalsoimportantandthereare other city.” don’t sellmoreZimmerliproductsinany capital oftheworld,”Hosslisaid.“We by astrongpresenceinFrance. Switzerland istheleadingmarket,joined Switzerland-based company. chief executive officeroftheAarburg, quite considerable,”saidMarcelHossli, on thetoplevel,butourbusinessis producer inEurope,andwefocusonly line, aswell. like toturntheirfansintobuyersofthe knit underwear, sothecompanywould Stallone haveallworntheSwissribbed- Keanu Reeves, Will SmithandSylvester Meg Ryan, NicolasCage,Kevin Costner, Jennifer Garner, SarahJessicaParker, HalleBerry,Aniston, DrewBarrymore, ber-one market. Zimmerli isouttomaketheU.S.itsnum- lebrity crowd,andastapleinEurope, BERLIN —Well knownamongthece- WWD Sales aregrowingrapidlyinGermany, “I alwayssayParis istheZimmerli Europe isZimmerli’smainturf,and “We arenotthebiggestunderwear American starssuchasJennifer STYLE

Zimmerli: SwissMovement By MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 MELISSADRIER and alsointroducedChantelleintothe managing directorofHanrointheU.S. Brands, whosefounder, CindyKelly, was Zimmerli hassignedCMKDistinctive tion andmakeitthebrand’stopmarket, or DonnaLewisinAlexandria,Va. Peress onMadisonAvenue inManhattan as toahandfulofspecialtystoreslike been abletoturnbothsites,aswell undewearoptions.com. Women havealso specialists likeCustomshirt1.comand and NeimanMarcus,aswellbyonline Barneys NewYork, BergdorfGoodman undershirts andbriefsarecarriedin more thanacentury. Thetop-of-the-line has solditsmen’s rangeintheU.S.for powered bythewomen’s lines. — MARCELHOSSLI,ZIMMERLI In anefforttoexpandU.S.distribu- Now inits140thyear, Zimmerli [The U.S. ranksfourth lineup,] but we think it lineup,] butwe thinkit will be number one in will benumberonein in Zimmerli’s market the next five years. ·· ·· identify withSwissvalues,”headded. identify American market. high-tier positioningisripeforthe market researchindicatedthebrand’s representative. Hosslinotedextensive American market,tobeitsexclusive wear] we’renotthatexpensiveanymore.” when itcomestounderwear, as[ready-to- while weknowwe’reprettyexpensive Zimmerli nametonewcustomers,and Collection infinecottonandsilkknit. fall 2011launchoftheWomanity Shirt into newproductcategorieswiththe named forthecompany’sfounder. HomagetoPauline line, like lastyear’s seasonal collectionsandspecialranges contribute themajorshareofsales,two compasses in-stockbasics,whichhesaid is nowgrowingrapidly, Hosslisaid.Iten- cent ofsales,butthewomen’s collection and pantiesfrom$38to$90. U.S., topsretailbetween$75and$140, panties startingatabout50euros.Inthe between 50and150eurosinEurope,with price. Undershirtsandcamisolesrange Swiss cantonofTessin. Thisallhasits inthe stresses atZimmerli’sfactory sewn andhand-finishedby50seam- accentedwithSwisslace,andcut, often fibers spunandknittedinSwitzerland, innatural is fineribbed-knitunderwear double-digit millions.”Thecoreproduct placed Zimmerli’sdollarvolumein“the in NewYork andLasVegas. tradeshows and willexhibitattheCurve the EmpireStateBuildinginManhattan stores. Zimmerlinowhasashowroomin most upscaledepartmentandspecialty building updistributionatthenation’s off, wornunderablazerorcardigan.” underwear. Women liketoshowthem called basicitem,“they’renotpure isoles representaninvestmentinaso- Moreover, althoughZimmerli’scam- “Americans lovequalityandcan He suggestedWomanity bringthe “will Globally, Zimmerliisalsoexpanding Men’s stylesgenerateabout70per- He wouldn’t bespecific,butHossli The maintargetandstrategyis L A

L NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEERRUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES AME GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUTPRINTSON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS L STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVCLEATHER, SPACERS A , Inc. L POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL AME , E xclusive SuppliersofStretch Fabrics knits. its ribbed known for Zimmerli is

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: CAITLIN/FENTON MOON WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 17

Looks from Sonata Lingerie.

Sonata: Lace ’Em Up By NINA JONES signs that are all made at her London studio. Pieces in the designer’s spring collection in- LONDON — The delicate lace bodysuits that clude a lilac Solstiss lace bodysuit with a silk have become a signature of London-based trim, along with coral silk chiffon camisoles label Sonata Lingerie are anything but gran- with silk bows at the shoulder and a peach silk ny-ish, but their designer, Sonata Rapalyte, chiffon playsuit. does owe her lingerie career to her own “It’s inspired by London life,” said Rapalyte grandmother. of the spring collection. “There’s lots of sum- “I learned from my grandmother, who was mer heat-wave colors.” a seamstress, and from The collection is priced there I always had a from 39 pounds, or $61 at love for [design],” said current exchange, for cot- the Lithuanian-born ton panties and runs up to Rapalyte. 250 pounds, or $391, for a She skipped formal lace bodysuit. The line is design training and in- sold via Rapalyte’s Web site stead headed to London and through European on- in the late Nineties, line lingerie boutiques such where she worked as Glamorous Amorous and with the lingerie label Peacock and Strutt. The de- Damaris from 2001 signer also has expanded through 2006. However, the line to include a swim she soon wanted to have collection of Fifties-style “my own designs out printed bikinis and a cap- there,” and founded sule collection of simple Sonata Lingerie in 2008. white linen pieces, such “Lots of [lingerie] de- as a slipdress, pajamas signers follow fashion and lingerie sets. However, trends, but I make things as her business builds, I think women will love,” Rapalyte said she plans to said Rapalyte. keep her focus on lingerie Rapalyte works with and loungewear. materials such as silk, “I’m not going to be mak- satin and chiffons to ing wedding dresses just create ultrafeminine de- yet,” she said with a chuckle.

)$6+,21%(*,16 $77+()((7

At Soxland, we’ve been bringing high-end fashion to the world of socks for over two decades. We have experience in collaborating with retailers to create customized private label programs so that our socks deliver profit. To experience the breadth of our styles, come visit our showroom. 25 years proud and strong!

DAVCO • GREENOLOGY • SOXLAND

7 WEST 36TH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10018 T. 212.679.4588 E. [email protected] WWW.SOXLAND.COM 18 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 eye Remaining Faithfull Marianne Faithfull talks records, both historical and musical.

PARIS — Marianne Faithfull is in higher spirits than Richards contends they were both attached you might think. at the time: Faithfull to Jagger, and he to model “On the whole, I’ve been pretty happy for years,” Anita Pallenberg. Faithfull muses over a glass of Coke Zero at the trendy Faithfull is sticking to the account she pub- Hôtel Costes in Paris. “But I haven’t been able to express lished in her 1994 autobiography, “Faithfull,” it in my work, and I realized that I had to really spell it saying the fling happened before she got to- out for the audience very clearly: ‘I. Am. Happy.’ ” gether with Jagger. To wit, the cover of her 23rd solo album, “Horses “I’ve decided to not trouble myself, you and High Heels,” due out Jan. 31, features a horse in a know. It’s Keith’s memories. If that’s how he rainbow-colored landscape. If a strong current of nostal- wants to remember it, then he should, and gia runs through many of the 13 tracks, it is counterbal- my memory is quite different,” she says. anced by the presence of R&B covers like “Gee Baby,” “He’s turned it into a revenge f--k. It wasn’t “No Reason” and “Back in Baby’s Arms.” like that, but never mind — I don’t care. At 64, Faithfull views her chaotic trajectory — from Anyway, I think it’s such a great thing teenage pop princess to girlfriend of Mick Jagger, he [wrote his book] that I’m not homeless junkie and redeemed icon — with a going to criticize.” measure of equanimity. At this stage, she is even She is looking forward to willing to let slide a few historical inaccuracies sending him a copy of “Horses — but more on that later. and High Heels” along with “a very Fate has put her resilience to the test. Just as nice fax — Keith doesn’t do e-mail.” she had recovered from a cancer scare two years Faithfull, who no longer wears heels, says she ago, her partner of 15 years, François Ravard, left her. picked the title because it sounded pleasantly ab- “He fell in love with someone else, and that was terri- surd — though she sent Manolo Blahnik an advance copy. bly painful,” says the performer, dressed in a black cardi- “He’s so delighted with it. He plays it all the gan and quilted jeans from Chanel. “Now, time has passed time, very loud,” she says. and I’m reconciled and we’re friends and it’s cool.” As she gears up for a three-month tour start- Ravard remains her manager, and Faithfull even found ing in France in March, the singer is looking the strength to pen a song about the split: “Why Did We forward to donning the Chanel outfits that Karl Have to Part” is one of five tracks she co-wrote on the Lagerfeld designed for her to wear onstage. album. She brings the same laid-back acceptance to other “It’s my look, really: black trousers, beau- aspects of her life. For a long time, Faithfull suffered from tiful shirts and a jacket. It’s very simple,” the media myths spun around her — in particular, after she explains.

the infamous drug raid on the Rolling Stones in 1967, Now if she could just give up her last when she was found naked under a fur rug and, according vice: smoking. to legend, behaving improperly with a Mars chocolate bar. “I’m worried about it,” Faithfull mut- “I would have loved to be able to let that go and not ters as she fires up a cigarette. Coming let it bother me, but it always did bother me,” she says. from a woman who has kicked heroin, Marianne “It wasn’t good, and it’s not me.” that might seem like something of a Faithfull

She credits Keith Richards with helping to dispel that paradox, but she is serious — as much fabrication, though the Rolling Stones guitarist recently as her dry British wit will allow. added another chapter to the rich canon of Faithfull lore, “I suppose I would prefer not to die courtesy of his best-selling memoir, “Life.” Faithfull says of emphysema,” she ponders, before she “loved” the book but disputes his account of the one- dissolving into a throaty laugh.

PHOTO BY JOHANNES SIMON/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY night stand they had in the Sixties. — JOELLE DIDERICH Casey Still, making·· the album was an into the album. Abramovic’s strong Spooner epiphany. While “Entertainment” Slavic accent can be heard on “Spirit A Single Man took two years to complete, Spooner Cooking.” CASEY SPOONER ARRIVES at a re- wrote and recorded the 15 songs on Though he’s striking out on his cent photo shoot looking shockingly “Adult Contemporary” in five weeks. own, Spooner lays to rest worries normal. Wearing jeans, suede work “It was personal and poetic,” he that he and Fischerspooner partner boots, a faded black leather jacket says. “Fischerspooner is lyrical, Warren Fischer will disband. “We’ve and Borsalino hat, the co-founder of visual and performance-oriented. been kicking around a lot of ideas,” he electro-pop music and performance Aesthetically, everything adds up to says. “Warren and I understand that art project, Fischerspooner, betrayed one big idea. It was so refreshing to we both need to have creative outlets no traces of the glitter, sequins, hair toss off songs. It was almost stream outside the Fischerspooner project.” color and Spandex that have figured of consciousness.” He’s at no loss for outlets. He into his onstage style. stretched his acting muscles in These days, both Spooner’s look a stint as Laertes in the Wooster and his music have been streamlined. Group’s production of “Hamlet,” for “It’s a big departure from how a lot It’s a big departure example. of people see me,” says the 40-year-old And Spooner is in line to try out Athens, Ga., native, whose debut solo from how a lot of yet another medium. In the fall, album, “Adult Contemporary,” features he’ll host a new talk show, “U DNT Marina Abramovic and Scissor Sisters’ KNOW” on AEG-TV. “I’m feeling front man Jake Shears. The album, people see me. very drawn to film and TV,” he says. which will be released Tuesday, — CASEY SPOONER “I want to write a TV series set on a came together last year almost by ac- resort. It will be very fashion-driv- cident toward the end of work on en.” Spooner’s own wardrobe, which Fischerspooner’s “Entertainment” includes custom pieces by Stefano album when record producer Jeff The song “Faye Dunaway,” for ex- Pilati and Ricardo Tisci, has inspired Saltzman, who’s worked with Blondie ample, was inspired by a dream in him to revive a collection of “beauti- and The Killers, asked Spooner to re- which the actress watches a toilet ful, interesting sportswear” he began cord a song for his new project. overflow in her lavish dressing room designing in 2005. “In two hours, I wrote the lyr- and destroys a Terence Koh artwork “I feel a little misunderstood,” ics and melody for an entire song,” lying on the floor. he says. “I worked exclusively on Spooner says. “Slowly [Jeff] stopped “The whole song is a portrait of Fischerspooner for nearly a de- calling it ‘his’ record and started call- modern sexuality,” he explains, a bit cade and it made me kind of crazy. I ing it ‘my’ record. It was a little bit of mysteriously. learned that being a renaissance man a surprise and I felt like he tricked Koh isn’t the only one of Spooner’s is what I’m supposed to do.”

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY me a little bit.” art-world friends to figure·· somehow — SHARON EDELSON WWDSTYLE MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 19

FOR MORE, SEE accessories WWD.com Investment-Grade Timepieces in Favor

{Continued from page 1} year’s entire production has been presold, said the first men’s wristwatch, for Brazilian aviator The vintage market is also heat- Gaetan Guillosson, the brand’s president for Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, the brand is still ing up, with Christie’s reporting North America. primarily perceived as a jeweler. Five years ago, it record watch sales in 2010. Its But if buyers are willing to shell out for ex- decided to boost investment top lot was a Patek Philippe ceptional items, they don’t necessarily want in the haute horlogerie Ref. 1527, which sold for $5.7 the watch to advertise its price tag. side of its business and million in May. “Even if the situation is improving, has been steadily increas- The industry’s good you don’t want to go to the board meet- ing its visibility since. health was underlined ing with something big and shiny, and “Every year is impor- by results published last you also don’t want to be seen tant,” said Cartier ceo week. Luxury group with your friends, who have Bernard Fornas. “We Compagnie Financière maybe lost their jobs, wear- have gained a strong Richemont, which ing something too flashy,” foothold in the market owns the majority of said Guillosson. in the last three years, the brands present at “The customer is but obtaining worldwide SIHH, said revenues also much more edu- credibility takes some rose 33 percent in the cated today. They know time. I am patient.” three months ended Dec. that a name is not enough However, even rel- 31, while Swatch Group, anymore. They want ative newcomers can the world’s largest watch- something else: something benefit from the mar- maker, posted record sales perfectly finished, home- ket revival, provided for 2010 as a whole. made movements, craftsman- the product is excep- For the first time since the ship,” he added. tional. Montblanc, sector plunged into crisis in François-Henry Bennahmias, better known as a late 2008, price is no object, ac- ceo of the North American maker of fine pens, cording to Jérôme Lambert, chief division of Audemars Piguet, introduced its ground- executive office of Jaeger-LeCoultre. said its New York and Bal Harbour breaking Metamorphosis “During the [period] when the stores posted record sales in at SIHH last year and market was shrinking, we saw December. He expects both the United has sold the full initial a sharp decline in the segment States and Latin America to repeat their production of 28 pieces, priced from 100,000 to 300,000 Rotonde de Cartier 2010 sales performances this year, with priced at around 240,000 euros [$135,000 to $404,000 at cur- Astrorégulateur in increases of 15 percent and 40 percent, euros, or $322,900. rent exchange rates], which is niobium-titanium, respectively. “Everybody is seeking a closely linked to disposable in- limited edition of 50. “The sellout of our retail network in safe haven in high-quality come,” he said. Price: approximately December was exceptional, which meant that watches,” said Demetrio “What we are seeing here at the $327,500. the retailers didn’t keep a very big inventory,” Cabiddu, master watchmak- fair is a strong recovery in that seg- he said. “They are coming here with a good will to er at Montblanc. “They are ment, which really confirms the buy and to buy a.s.a.p., because they need mer- thinking: I’m investing in a definite end of the crisis,” added Lambert. Jaeger- chandise in their store.” Van Cleef & Arpels watch that is worth 200,000 euros LeCoultre is struggling to keep up with demand, de- With savvy consumers demanding brand authen- Complication Poétique this year and that will be worth spite recruiting several dozen staff since June. ticity, even top-notch names are vying to justify their “Five Weeks in a 250,000 euros next year, because A. Lange & Söhne is facing similar issues. The haute horlogerie credentials. Balloon” in white gold. the euro will have weakened, but waiting list for its Zeitwerk is so long that this Cartier is a case in point. Though it produced Price: $116,000. not the watch.”

Accessories Shows See Uptick in Traffic, Mood By LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON “Accessorie Circuit/Intermezzo and Amrita Singh has ventured into the ENKNYC enjoyed significant growth world of handbags with a splash of NEW YORK — This month’s [approximately 10 percent] in exhibitors tie-dye. Singh said the bags have accessories trade shows — and retailers. We believe this growth is sold well on her site (amritas- AccessoriesTheShow and Accessorie the result of our hugely talented design- ingh.com), and at Accessorie Circuit — exhibited strong signs of ers, the buyers’ renewed enthusiasm Circuit she garnered continued growth within the sector. and that ENK is a trusted source of strong interest from “I think people seemed pretty optimis- commerce for both.” larger retailers for tic, cautiously optimistic,” said Joseph A few standouts from the shows: possible orders. The Maio, owner of Adornments Fine Sibilia: Fernanda Sibilia’s jewelry is bags come in a variety Jewelry in Sag Harbor, N.Y., who attend- crafted in 24k gold plating and sterling of silhouettes and colors ed both shows. “People weren’t afraid of silver plating, as well as copper, bronze and retail from $100 to pushing the envelope with design, but and gunmetal, in geometric shapes that $250. at the same time, hitting all the price lend the line a Native American feel. N+A: The hand- points.…[Designers are] very aware of The collection is handmade in Argentina made jewelry brand pricing, but at the same time having a and priced to retail from $20 to $100 at is shorthand for its de- few extra special things that stood out.” Garnet Hill and Bird in Brooklyn. signers and founders, Ali Galgano, founder of e-commerce Oliveve: A handbag company begun Noriko and Akiko, sis- jewelry site Charm & Chain, agreed: by Lynn Rosetti and Kristi Zoldi bases ters from Japan. N+A “This season’s markets showcased some its designs on malleable silhouettes is now based in New of the best jewelry we’ve seen in a long fashioned from lambskin. Oliveve has York and cultivates a time.…Booths were crowded and foot been in business only for one year whimsical aesthetic traffic was high. It’s wonderful to see and will begin selling in July at Henri with sinewy tassel the industry beginning to rebound.” Bendel and Steven Alan. necklaces and tiny Britton Jones, president and Silva/Bradshaw: Silva/Bradshaw flower drop earrings chief executive officer of Business began as a design house for packaging in vermeil sterling sil- Journals Inc., the parent company for and furniture by co-founders Matthew ver. Their designs are available A handbag from Amrita Singh. AccessoriesTheShow, said, “With near- Bradshaw and Sergio Silva. In the last at New York boutiques Lori McLean ly a 17 percent increase over last year, year, the duo has veered into jewelry. The and Peipers + Kojen and are typically primarily crafted from a blend of 14k the attendance is proof positive that the aesthetic is minimal, but with a quirky priced from $20 to $100 at retail. rose gold or 18k yellow gold, which is economy is significantly improving.” and inventive approach to simple rings Arik Kastan: Jewelry designer Arik offset with myriad stones such as tour- Accessorie Circuit experienced and pendants. Silva/Bradshaw jewelry is Kastan was born and raised in Israel, maline, citrine and diamonds. The increased attendance, as well. Elyse priced to retail from $20 to $100 and sells and despite his recent expansion into collection ranges from $250 to $2,500 Kroll, chairman of ENK International at Project No. 8 and The Future Perfect. the U.S., his workshops remain in Tel and can be found at Roseark in Santa which produces the trade show, said, Amrita Singh: Jewelry favorite Aviv. The Victorian-era-inspired line is Monica and West Hollywood. Agriculture Innovations Sustainability Software Fashion Advertising Consumer

Performance cotton beats mystery fabrics at their own game.

Thanks to new moisture management fi nishing technologies, cotton is now available for high-performance athletic wear. These fi nishing technologies allow cotton to dry faster by wicking perspiration away from the skin and across the surface of the fabric. Additionally, consumers don’t have to give up the comfort, breathability or ease of care they’ve come to love about cotton. Learn more about moisture management technology and how it can enhance your product line by going to cottoninc.com/transdry or contacting your personal Cotton consultant.

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ™ Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2010. WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 5 WWD.COM

Givenchy: Who let the dogs out? Riccardo Tisci did, in a collection John Galliano Kenzo as fun as it was fierce. A photo print of snarling Rottweilers was a key leitmotif, splashed on shirts, blousons and shorts. Images of the hounds were also mixed with plaids or chains to create scarflike prints, echoing Tisci’s record sleeve design for a Kanye West and Jay-Z single. As a foil to this canine folly — which culminated with silly dog-ear caps — there were plenty of luxurious touches and fine tailoring. Models wore chunky fur vests both over and under coats and jackets, while sharp, slim-cut suits in black and deep brown had bark and bite. Spectacles edged with fur were another quirky touch. This was a sportier take on Tisci’s dark vision, and a knowing take on street style.

Raf Simons: This calm, yet inventive collection melded futurism and collegiate style. Duffle coats, in camel and eye-popping brights, were the main statement. One voluminous version came in purple Neoprene — worn with a sharp shirt and tie and a plaid scarf — while another cocoon-shaped number came in tomato red fastened with a single toggle at the neck. Backstage, the designer said he wanted to explore a mix of maturity and youth, and also pay homage to craftsmen. Some of the more experimental propositions — such as mohair aprons and voluminous pants in black PVC — weren’t so convincing. But given the designer had revealed a split with his Italian partner, Futurenet Group, on the day before the show, Simons’ boundary-pushing vision didn’t waver.

Paul Smith: Sir Paul Raf Simons Smith said that rockers on the road inspired his fall collection — and it certainly had a Ann gritty, tour-bus vibe. Demeulemeester Models with long, grungy locks wore Hermès skinny pants printed with a patchwork of animal prints, frayed denim shirts and shaggy faux fur coats with a Woodstock feel. The designer also worked in Space Age elements, Lanvin such as a giant down jacket in weathered silver and swirling, geological prints on slim pants. Smith’s signature tailoring still edged its way into this youthful lineup, including a terrific khaki Crombie and a sharp, gray pinstripe suit.

Junya Watanabe: In a charming presentation, models ambled around park benches wearing countrified takes on an urban wardrobe. Snug blazers were worked from Fair Isle knits in autumnal shades, some stitched with moleskin pockets and elbow patches. Leather bombers or cotton hunting coats were patched or lined with lumberjack checks, heightening the outdoorsy vibe. Cropped pants and chunky brogues — along with Woody Allen dialogue on a soundtrack — kept the collection rooted in the city.

Maison Martin Margiela: For its first catwalk outing, Maison Martin Margiela seated the audience backstage and staged the actual runway action in an adjacent room, muffled show music thumping from afar. This allowed a leisurely inspection of terrific outfits juxtaposing the casual and sartorial heritage of the house. Coats were merged with the body parts of other garments. For example, the collar and cuff of a sheepskin jacket were fused onto a peacoat. Military styles included patchwork blanket parkas with a Smurf-blue sleeping bag lining. While lacking experimental

re wonder, the line was strong on great commercial pieces, plus a T i classy new tailored silhouette. mA

Kenzo: The English detective novel was Antonio Marras’ touchstone minique

O this season, giving this quirky collection a strait-laced, Fifties D D

n feel. His cast of characters ran from bowler-hat-wearing bankers A

ni to gentlemen farmers. A nerdish knit vest, striped shirt and high- O

nn waist plaid pants jostled with dandy ensembles. The designer A

Gi also offered his gents a plethora of outerwear for both town and

nni country, such as brown leather motorcycle jackets, a khaki down A v

O jacket and a voluminous black fur car coat. Gi , D r Ann Demeulemeester: A standing ovation from Patti Smith put HA

Ac a stamp of approval on a gently deconstructed, romantic

ine collection. The designer slashed the fronts of topcoats, jackets PH and waistcoats, which peeled open in elaborate flaps at the waist.

Del Bleach was used to make ghostly patterns, sprinkled across one BY three-piece navy suit like a constellation. Pops of blue, red, yellow and orange broke the darkness, applied to tops or brimming from PHOTOS under sheer black layers. 6 WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011

Thom Browne: Vive la révolution! Thom Browne staged Thom Browne Kris Comme a lavish Franco-American banquet attended by Van des “Dangerous Liaisons”-meets-Willy Wonka style buckle- Assche Garçons shoed gentlemen, wearing kooky round shades and Homme droopy white knitted hats in the place of powdered Plus wigs. The setting, the Hotel Westin’s ornate Salon Impérial, was magical; shame about the clothes. From the clunky astrakhan vests and checked coats with oversize belts and buckles, to the mohair pinafore dress and knickerbockers, it was hard to decipher the raison d’être of the occasion.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: In a delightful, romantic presentation, Rei Kawakubo summoned to mind a disheveled, down-on-his-luck aristocrat wistful for his party days. Dusty-looking evening jackets or tailcoats were paired with ultraloose pants in Chinese silks or faded fl orals. The pajamalike mood of the collection was enhanced by hilarious bedraggled wigs. The looks were soft, aged and rumpled, as if from another time.

Yohji Yamamoto: Slouchy, loose-fi tting suits in rough- hewn fabrics such as gray fl annel and crumpled black linen dominated, worn with high-collared shirts that evoked Victorian costume. But Yamamoto developed Yohji these workaday fabrics in new directions: A patchwork Yamamoto of houndstooth and herringbone patterns was printed onto a relaxed velvet suit, while chunky knit sweaters were knit with intarsia designs such as red lips and skeleton bones.

Kris Van Assche: The designer stepped into a new zone, infusing his collection with monastic touches and experimenting with larger volumes. Oversize knit sweaters with thick roll necks — or sweatshirt styles in dramatic bubble shapes — came paired with slouchy Cerruti pants that were tucked into heavy boots. Van Assche contrasted these generous silhouettes, including voluminous car coats and a fl uid trench, with slimmer styles. A sober palette of black, gray and camel men’s underscored the collection’s introspective spirit. collections

Cerruti: Taking over a historic brand is never an easy DOMINIQUE MAITRE task, especially when scores of designers have tried PARIS and failed before. In their fi rst men’s collection for Cerruti, design duo Sachido Okada and Aaron Sharif, fall better known for their eponymous label Blaak, mixed 2011 up Wall Street classics like broad-shouldered wool

coats with the skinny pants favored by rock stars. A gray GIANNONI AND GIOVANNI

wool blazer was spliced with black leather biker jacket BY sleeves, while a black patchwork fur coat was paired

with cropped gray fl annel pants with silver ankle zips. PHOTOS

Balenciaga FOR MORE Balmain Valentino MEN’S COVERAGE, SEE IN THE WWD.com/ MENSWEAR-NEWS. SHOWROOMS

Balenciaga: While continuing to focus on an urban, casual wardrobe, Balenciaga looked to the mountains for fall-winter, giving its mix-and- match collection a Fifties-in-Chamonix vibe. Looks included hooded nylon parkas, wool duffl e coats with leather patch pockets, trekking jackets in red and black tartan and ombré sweaters resembling earth-stained snow. Beyond the slopes, there were modernized classics like leather aviator blousons, peacoats and utilitarian jackets.

Balmain: “After the cold winter we’re having in Europe, I felt like doing a real winter collection,” said designer Christophe Decarnin. That translated into snug, ultrawearable coats and artfully disheveled separates. There were shearling-lined coats with high collars and touches of military detailing, crumpled lumberjack shirts, and jeans that looked as if they’d been smudged with dust.

Valentino: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli — in Paris for couture — muscled in on men’s fashion week for the fi rst time, installing the fall-winter collection in Valentino’s gilded Place Vendôme salons. It’s young, sleek and modernist: with streamlined topcoats in bonded fabrics or peacoats with leather details going over cashmere cable knits and slim, workwear-inspired chinos. Piccioli said the still-life presentation was to highlight the lineup’s “understated luxury,” but he didn’t rule out a runway show come June. WWD MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 7 WWD.COM Fashion scoops

PUFF THE MAGIC: go-go boots, short dress- and final collection for the house in March, in a NEVER THE TWAIN: Paul Simonon says ru- The arrival of Sean es and a futuristic logo. format that has yet to be determined. mors he had a stroke in Australia last month “Diddy” Combs front A string of young French actors showed up have been greatly exaggerated. “I think people row at the Dior Homme KILL FEE: Wherever to support the first men’s outing by designer got carried away. I just blacked out, that’s all, show Saturday after- there’s The Kills, Kate duo Sachiko Okada and Aaron Sharif of label and I woke up and I was fine. I went on stage noon sparked a scrum, Moss is sure to follow. Blaak. Actress Zelda Williams, the daughter of the next day,” the Clash bassist said at the Yves with Dior chief Sidney The top model is expected Robin Williams, said she has founded production Saint Laurent men’s show in Paris Sunday. Toledano and Karl to join a pack of VIPs at company Slings and Arrows to write, produce and Simonon and his girlfriend, Agent Provocateur Lagerfeld among those Etam’s lingerie and swim- possibly direct projects for herself and her “two co-founder Serena Rees, were in town for the rushing to greet the star. wear show tonight, at best friends,” Juno Temple and Emma Roberts. birthday of stylist Jerry Stafford and hoped to Scooting out of the crush the Grand Palais in Paris, The name was inspired by Hamlet’s “To be, or take in the Claude Monet exhibition at the Grand was Spanish actress with Eva Herzigova, not to be” soliloquy, but has a double meaning. Palais, which is open 24 hours during its final Elena Anaya, who has Freida Pinto, Lily Allen, “I thought it was very apt, given how independent weekend. Rees has been consulting for firms in just wrapped shooting Sidney Toledano and Sean “Diddy” Combs Emmanuelle Seigner, film has been treated recently,” Williams said. fields as diverse as food, fashion and film. “And Pedro Almodóvar’s “The Lenny Kravitz and Alexa no lingerie. I’ve done that,” she said. Skin I Live In.” Combs, who admired the show’s Chung also expected to attend. Along with The GOOD TIMES: Michael Kors is celebrating ballroom setting, said he’s in town to promote Kills, Beth Ditto and Boy George are down to the 30th anniversary of his brand with quite OF THE MOMENT: Patti Smith took a break his latest album, “Last Train to Paris.” So what’s perform at the event. a bit of gusto. To mark the occasion, Charles from a week-long cycle of performances and his favorite style of ballroom dancing? “The Rivkin, the U.S. ambassador to France, and readings in Paris to take in her friend Ann waltz, but I’m no good at it,” he shrugged. “It MEN’S CLUB: Following its purchase by the Li & his wife, Susan Tolson, are opening the doors Demeulemeester’s men’s wear show. “It’s has to be the tango,” said “Of Gods and Men” Fung group in December, to the legendary U.S. been going fantastic,” she said, ahead of re actor Lambert Wilson, who plays himself in his Cerruti is suspending its ambassador’s residence Saturday night’s finale, a live performance of IT a m

latest movie project, directed by Alain Resnais, women’s wear activities during fashion week in her seminal album “Horses.” Smith’s longtime que

I called “You Haven’t Seen Anything Yet.” to focus on the men’s Paris to celebrate Kors guitarist, Lenny Kaye, said much of the pro- n I m business, chief executive with a seated dinner on gram, which also included homages to photog-

D O MAKING SPACE: Space Age designer André officer Florent Perrichon March 7. That’s not the rapher Robert Mapplethorpe and Beat poet Allen BY e Courrèges and his wife and creative partner, said on the sidelines of only reason to honor the Ginsberg, was improvised. OW r Coqueline, have sold the company to two inves- the brand’s fall-winter designer in Paris that Smith is recording her next album, which she tors, Frédéric Torloting and Jacques Bungert, show Friday. “We prefer week. Kors is also open- hopes to release this spring, but was not ready

Feugere; the company confirmed. Torloting and Bungert not to spread ourselves ing a 7,000-square-foot to reveal its title. Italian folk rock band Casa del ane run the French division of advertising agency too thin in a field that is flagship — his biggest Vento appear on a couple of tracks, Kaye re- PH e

T Young & Rubicam, but are believed to have highly competitive,” he in the world — on the vealed. “We just have to find time to keep Patti S made the investment independently. Coqueline explained, adding that Rue Saint Honoré and, in one place long enough so we can finish it, but Courrèges has been running the firm since her creative director for wom- earlier that day, will it’s a really good record. It’s very adventurous husband retired from fashion in the Nineties. en’s wear Richard Nicoll stage a press confer- and takes us to a lot of places that we’ve never Camille Rowe and Zelda Williams PHOTO DIDDY BY Founded in 1961, Courrèges is synonymous with would present his third ence at the store. been before,” he added.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE BUYER/ SALES HELP WANTED BUYER/ SALES HELP WANTED JR. DRESS DESIGNER & MIS- Knits and Woven Bottoms Bangladesh SALES REPRE- SY SPORTSWEAR DESIGNER exporter seeking Buyers / Sales help, Responsible for Private Label busi- SENTATIVE We are seeking designers with mini- ness, follow up approvals and mer- mum 5 years experience who has a Korean based private-label chandising. Must have good industry apparel manufacturing com- pulse on the market. You must be cre- contacts. Contact NYC Off JOSEPH Showrooms & Lofts ative, highly detailed and well organ- 917-685-6000 E-mail: [email protected] pany seeking Sales Represen- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS ized. Knowledge of Photoshop and/or tative w/8+ years experience Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Illustrator and of patternmaking a Independent Sales ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 must. Please forward your resume to: having established contacts [email protected] Reps wanted w/retail buyers & divisionals Fast growing and exciting hosiery at specialty retailers, mid-tier company seeks experienced independ- and above department ent reps with specialty store and chain experience. NY Metro and many other stores, and mass market re- territories available. tailers. Candidates must Production Coordinator Please fax resume to: have proven track record of Large Childrenswear Co. seeks detailed 212-679-0263 indiv to followup w/ Walmart, Kmart, building sales and achieving Macy’s accts & overseas factories. Must sales goals. be familiar with CTL approval proce- SALES REP Email resume to dures. Bilingual in Chinese/Eng. pref. Well established Junior Co. seeks an [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 2-3 yrs exp. Fax: (212) 967-8631 ATT: experienced sales person with excel- PRODUCTIONS RL, or Email: [email protected] lent contacts with Management/ Full service shop to the trade. Buyers of Specialty Chain store and VP OF SALES: CHILDRENSWEAR Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Dept. stores. Discounters would be a Kahn Lucas is seeking an energetic, plus. Email: [email protected] innovative senior sales executive to handle department store accounts. Will be responsible to grow and culti- vate existing accounts in addition to obtaining new business. Must have a minimum of 10 years of experience. Must have experience leading a team and be willing to travel. For considera- tion send resume to : [email protected]

Question about your To place an “ONLINE ONLY” Subscription? classified ad, log into WWDCAREERS.com Call 1-800-289-0273 and place your ad any time R