Texture Message MILAN — Versace Provided a ﬁ Tting ﬁ Nish for the Milan Spring Collections

PARIS INSPIRATIONS/8-10 CHANEL’S HELLEU DEAD AT 69/18 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 1, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Texture Message MILAN — Versace provided a fi tting fi nish for the Milan spring collections. While many of Donatella Versace’s fashion looks were relatively toned-down, the stylized heels and richly textured bags she showed with them — like this one — were still notably dramatic. For more on accessories, see pages 6 and 7. Grueling Pace Aside, Buyers Praise Milan For Color, New Shapes By WWD Staff MILAN — A strong euro, snarled traffic and grim weather notwithstanding, retailers left Milan in high spirits thanks to a gust of fresh, colorful and feminine fashions. Buyers said they welcomed a shift from overt hard-edged sexiness to something softer and more romantic, with lots of floral prints and artistic touches. Collections by Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, 6267, Marni, Fendi, Prada and Versace won wide praise, while ethnic-themed prints, transparency and full skirts of all lengths were cited among key trends. See Buyers, Page4 PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM YSL Launches Upgraded Web Site WWDMONDAY By Miles Socha stockkeeping units displayed in Among exclusive features for crisp, Mondrian-esque arrange- the launch are 24 short fi lms by Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear PARIS — Interactive is the new ments, allows New York and Los Nick Knight with model Jessica black at Yves Saint Laurent’s re- Angeles shoppers to schedule Miller wearing Edition 24 items, FASHION vamped Web site, slated to go live a fi tting and showcases shoes, plus an animated, making-of ver- today, complete with an online bags and clothes from multiple sion of the house’s fall campaign From fl owered heels to bright leathers, the season’s accessories stand- store for U.S. shoppers and lots angles. Muse bags in various featuring Gisele Bündchen. 6 outs in Milan defi nitely rate a double take. of animated Web-only content. sizes are held by a model to Meanwhile, the “Company Overhauling a bare-bones site better illustrate the silhouette. History” section resembles an largely unchanged since Tom For women’s ready-to-wear, the art gallery, where Web surfers GENERAL Ford’s days at YSL, the French initial focus is on Edition 24, a can learn more about Yves Saint Retailers gave the Milan spring collections a general thumb’s-up, but fi rm aims to expand traffi c to ysl. range of seasonless, well-priced Laurent himself, such iconic 1 said it was a bit of a smorgasbord of trends. com by fi vefold over the next 18 wardrobe essentials. products as tuxedos and trench- months — and generate consid- YSL boasted approximately coats and the brand’s current Active apparel sales are growing as activewear becomes more accepted erable sales volume. 100,000 registered users for its creative director, Stefano Pilati. 20 as fashion, according to The NPD Group’s second survey of the sector. Valerie Hermann, YSL’s previous site, and some 38,000 New Web-only content will EYE: Riffi ng with Annie Lennox, who will release “Songs of Mass De- president and chief executive more signed up to be alerted be added regularly to drive traf- 24 struction,” only her fourth record in 15 years, on Tuesday. offi cer, declined to give revenue about the new one, a company fi c, the spokesman said. The site projections, but said the online spokesman said. will also be promoted with ban- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 22-23 boutique should become one of The home page resembles ner ads on Style.com and iht. the company’s top-fi ve locations a multiple-screen television, com, he added. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. within three years. E-commerce broadcasting runway images YSL is the third Gucci [email protected], using the individual’s name. could eventually be expanded to from the get-go and “trailers” of Group brand to add e-com- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT the U.K., she noted. other elements in the site — no merce in the U.S., after Gucci ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. The site, with some 500 extra clicking required. and Bottega Veneta. VOLUME 194, NO. 69. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Former BBW Exec to Crabtree & Evelyn Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: NEW YORK — vately held furniture He also plans to reevaluate “ev- SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Crabtree & Evelyn Ltd. retailer with more erything we do to make sure 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit has appointed Michael than 130 stores under it’s consistent with the updated www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Stromberg, a former the names American look.” The idea, he continued, subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Bath & Body Works ex- Signature, Value City is to “amplify the brand in correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other ecutive, chief execu- Furniture and Rooms every experience the customer Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list tive officer of Crabtree Today. has with it.” available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. & Evelyn Group. Prior to working at He added that he plans to If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Stromberg, who American Signature, evaluate the brand’s product OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, took the post earlier he spent 12 years at assortment, merchandising and BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED this month, succeeds Bath & Body Works, the way store associates interact MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Rob Ditchfi eld in the where he was execu- with customers. “These are all DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY ceo role. Ditchfield, tive vice president key parts that touch our custom- A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. who will remain pres- for BBW and execu- ers,” he said. ident of Crabtree & Michael Stromberg tive vice president During Stromberg’s tenure at Evelyn Group, will BBW, he helped oversee expan- MONDAY: Paris Ready-to-Wear Collections continue support Stromberg in sion of the personal care and home (through Sunday). managing the fi rm’s in- fragrance retailer. Prior to BBW, Las Vegas International Lingerie Show (through ternational business. BEAUTY BEAT Stromberg worked for 10 years in Wednesday). Stromberg will over- various roles at KAO Corp. and, see Crabtree & Evelyn Group’s and general manager for BBW’s before that, at Borden Inc. TUESDAY: Walgreen Co. reports fourth-quarter and operations in the U.S., the U.K., White Barn Candle division. — Michelle Edgar year-end sales and earnings. Canada, Hong Kong, Singapore, Stromberg said his goal as ceo Malaysia and Australia. of Crabtree & Evelyn Group is to WEDNESDAY: International Vision Expo West, Las Vegas Most recently, Stromberg continue updating the brand. Marionnaud Ex-CEO Fined (through Saturday). spent roughly a year as chief “My priority is clarifying and PARIS — Marcel Frydman, for- Interstoff Asia Essential — Autumn and Fashion merchandising officer at updating the brand’s image,” he mer chief executive officer of Access, Hong Kong (through Friday). American Signature Inc., a pri- said during an interview Friday. Marionnaud Parfumeries, has Workshop Paris (through Sunday). been fined 15,000 euros, or $21,230 at current exchange, THURSDAY: Tranoi Femme and Vendôme Luxury Trade plus thousands of euros in dam- Show, Paris (through Sunday). Major U.S. retailers re- ages for having illegally sold port September same-store sales. fragrance tester bottles from prestige beauty brands such as FRIDAY: Paris Sur Mode, Premiere Classe, Rendez-Vous Parfums Kenzo and Parfums Femme, Atmosphère and The Box, Paris (through Oct. 8). COMING THIS WEEK Yves Saint Laurent. The U.S. Labor Department releases the September Paris’ criminal court ruled employment report. Wednesday that in July 2004, Frydman sold at least 3,560 tester bottles that were destined for free, in-store fragrance sampling, it was reported. In Brief In addition to his 15,000 euro fi ne, Frydman also owes damages to companies includ- ● GAP SECURITY BREACH: Gap Inc. said a laptop containing ing LVMH Moët Hennessy the personal information of an estimated 800,000 job applicants Louis Vuitton, PPR and Beaute was stolen from the offi ces of a vendor that manages job ap- Prestige International SA (BPI). plicant data for the company. The laptop contained data for Specifi cally, Frydman will have people who applied online or by phone for store positions at to pay 10,000 euros, or $14,153, Old Navy, Banana Republic, Gap and outlet stores in the U.S., in damages to Parfums Christian Puerto Rico and Canada between July 2006 and June. Gap said Dior, to Guerlain and to Parfums that, because it uses more than one vendor to manage job appli- Kenzo, all part of LVMH. He cant data, not all people who applied for jobs during that peri- owes the same sum to PPR’s od were affected. Though the information on the laptop was not Yves Saint Laurent Parfums and encrypted, Gap said it doesn’t believe the data was the target of 1,500 euros, or $2,123, to BPI, the theft or that the personal information has been accessed or Shiseido’s beauty branch. used improperly. The company is offering affected applicants As reported, in July, Frydman a year of free credit-monitoring services with fraud resolution was fi ned 1 million euros, or $1.4 assistance, along with a dedicated 24-hour help line. million, by France’s securities regulator for having falsified Marionnaud’s accounts. Frydman left the perfumery Correction chain in September 2005, seven On a daily basis, several hundred-million YouTube videos are months after selling Marionnaud watched and hundreds of thousands are uploaded. This infor- to A.S. Watson. mation was incorrect in a story on page 20, Thursday. — Jennifer Weil touch feel breil CHARLIZE THERON

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE BLOOMINGDALES SELECT RETAIL STORES BREIL.COM 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM Buyers Wooed by Florals, Color Continued from page one temporary open-to-buy at D&G.” like prints. It’s one of the best tailers to assemble a compelling, feel. Our budgets are up for this Retailers lamented the diffi - Charbit’s standout collections in- seasons I have seen in Milan. trenchant fashion message for season and we are continuing culties of a condensed four-day cluded Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, It’s full of optimism. I thought consumers. Her favorite collec- to see this trend going forward. fashion week. Several were frus- Pucci and D&G. Giorgio Armani was a relaxing tions included Prada, Versace, The exchange rate is a concern trated they didn’t have enough Barbara Atkin, vice president, and calming show with its water- Marni and Jil Sander. but the luxury customer has not time to make it to showroom fashion direction, Holt Renfrew, like prints. His evening gowns at shown any resistance thus far.” appointments between shows. Canada the end were like diamonds in Dolce & Tiziana Cardini, fashion direc- While a shorter fashion week “I loved Milan. I thought it the sea. 6267 are big talents to Gabbana tor at La Rinascente might suit some members of the was fresh, light, happy and col- watch. This was true craftsman- Cardini cited Prada, Jil press, it’s not conducive to writ- orful, and I loved the new femi- ship with couture details and Sander and Roberto Cavalli ing orders or seeking out new nine direction. We’re still in Japanese infl uences.” Her favor- among the best collections. talent, they said. such a dress mode, and the mid- ites also included Marni, Prada, “Each designer reinforces and “The Camera Nazionale calf length looks fresh.” Other D&G, Blumarine and Versace. strengthens his or her own iden- needs to reevaluate this disas- key items include “easy, throw- “I’d like to see a schedule that tity, DNA and image — which trous situation,” said Michael on jackets,” voluminous roman- is a little bit more sensitive to is also a way to communicate Fink, vice president and wom- tic blouses and dirndl skirts. the needs of retailers so that we the brand,” she said. Cardini en’s fashion director at Saks Atkin praised the collections of have little pockets of time to visit praised Fendi’s accessories. “It Fifth Avenue. “And how many Jil Sander, Etro, Fendi, Marni, the unknown people who could was a wonderful idea to revisit shows did you miss?” Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and become something important.” the baguette,” she said. Cardini Still, most retailers emerged Giorgio Armani. “We will buy Michael Fink, vice president said she chose dresses, high- from the season optimistic about those knee-length knotted pants and women’s fashion director at waist pants and Seventies piec- a wide range of merchandise. [from Armani.] Those are going Saks Fifth Avenue es, in line with that trend. She “I’m very, very positive for to retail,” she said. “And his new “Sophisticated tailoring is did not mind the four-day week, the spring-summer season. It’s color palette is very creative.” alive and well at 6267. Our cus- but encourages secondary lines luxury, it’s feminine, it’s color- tomer will love choosing be- and young designers to hold pre- ful — bravo!” enthused Sarah tween the new romantic mood sentations rather than shows. Rutson, fashion director at Hong with softer shapes, exploded “It’s good to have big directional Kong-based Lane Crawford. fl orals, gossamer weight fabrics, brands together, while the other “It was one of the strongest in dusty colors or the energetic, more commercial products weeks here in many seasons,” bold and colorful global tribal should be regrouped before or agreed Yasmin Sewell, buying ideas. Prints were outstanding after those shows.” director at Browns and Browns this season, ranging from the Jennifer Wheeler, vice presi- Focus in London. “It seemed mystical faeries at Prada to the dent of designer apparel, more directional than in the fl orals at Dolce & Gabbana and Nordstrom past, but still commercial.” Roberto Cavalli. Jil Sander’s “It was a beautiful season “I thought Milan reconfi rmed translucent layers move long for Milan. It felt more refi ned, fashion at its best. Usually when and lean dressing light years sophisticated, sensual, soft- there are a lot of ruffl es, chiffon ahead. The Versace collection er. That Grace Kelly, refi ned and fl orals, it can end up being too was exceptional in its confi dent Fifties silhouette felt new. saccharine, but it’s not like that statement of chic day clothes And fl orals were such a huge this season,” added Ann Watson, and beautifully draped, unor- trend.” Other important trends vice president and fashion direc- namented eveningwear — no and items included Seventies- tor of Henri Bendel. “Many de- bling needed. The evolution of Yasmin Sewell, buying direc- fl avored lean knits and fl aring signers mastered restraint and the shoe bootie at Gucci and tor at Browns and Browns Focus pants, cuffed shorts worn with in doing so showed how sexy the Dolce looked just right and in London tunics, color-blocking effects, power of suggestion can be.” toughened up romantic dress- “I don’t often come away from layers of transparency and soft Here’s what other retailers ing. Interesting heels were ev- Milan feeling excited. I usually eyelash fringe. Wheeler also had to say: erywhere. Prada’s were so fun. I see a few things here but leave praised the broad range of ap- Ken Downing, senior vice loved that mini and maxi lengths with the intention of seeing the pealing color, from blends of president and fashion director lived equally on the runway, and real fashion in Paris. We loved pale gray, mushroom and gold- at Neiman Marcus both look right.” Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Marni, Jil en khaki through to brights. “There’s a bold color state- Julie Gilhart, senior vice Sander, Dolce & Gabbana and “We loved 6267, the dresses in ment coming out of Milan, with president and fashion director Versace. The new length will be particular, and also Marni and turquoise looking the newest, of Barneys New York a commercial hit, I’m sure. And Versace. Dolce and Prada of- plus all the pretty pastels. At “Milan was great this season. softness always sells. The colors fered fashion escapism, and it Versace, those draped Grecian What with all the newness in were really beautiful.” was nice to see a return to el- dresses came out like a rainbow. color, print, softer volumes and Oksana Bondarenko, owner egance at Dolce & Gabbana.” We also liked this multicultural, the new longer lengths, we have and buyer , Li-Lu, Moscow Erin Mullaney, designer wom- global referencing, which keeps high expectations at retail. A “In general, I think this week en’s wear buyer, Selfridges some embellishment on the Prada more poetic, romantic approach was not the most interesting of all “This time the collections clothes. Another strong message MAESTRI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY based in the craftsmanship that that I have seen. But I really liked were a lot more exciting than was the hand of the artist: prints Linda Fargo, senior vice pres- Italy is known for makes more D&G, Bottega, 6267, Prada and they have been in the past. I that really looked touched by a ident and fashion director at sense to us versus the hype and Trussardi. Trussardi was unlike loved the color palette, particu- brush or had an artisanal feel.” Bergdorf Goodman following of trends that has its usual style, very beautiful — larly at Marni. Everyone seems Downing also highlighted “The preponderance of paint- been more prevalent in season’s so we’ll buy 20 percent more than to be in a bright, happy mood fl oaty dirndl skirts, multiple lay- erly and abstracted prints and past. The best examples of this last time. Gucci was the show I this time round,” she said. Key ers of sheer, lightweight fabrics fl orals was beautiful and will shift in consciousness were at did not understand. I guess the trends include painterly and and colorful patent leather ac- enliven the selling fl oor. There Prada and Dolce & Gabbana.” key shows were still Gucci as well artistic prints, globe-trotting cessories. Standout collections was a freshness and lightness Her other favorites included Jil as Burberry and Prada. The sea- ethnic messages, combinations included 6267 for “redefined of spirit, which after the heavy Sander, Bottega Veneta, Marni, son does not suggest one obvious of bright and muted colors, pat- modern femininity”; a “bold and luxe and gravitas of fall, will Fendi and Versace. “Despite all trend but everybody is making ent leather accessories, chunky exhilarating Jil Sander”; Marni; be inspiring to the customer. the talk of the euro and how it clear shapes. The color is impor- bangles, wedge shoes and maxi- Versace and Fendi, which was 6267 was exquisite: a perfect will affect sales, Milan delivered tant — violet, blue, rose. But there dresses. Standout collections in- “intelligent, yet feminine and storm of tailoring, duality, color special pieces that will attract was a lot of black as well.” cluded Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, sophisticated.” mix, rich surface and surprise. customers because of the sheer Ann Watson, vice president Marni, Burberry and Roberto Cedric Charbit, vice president Prada once again gave us some- artistic craftsmanship and strong and fashion director of Henri Cavalli. “I am defi nitely going to of the buying offi ce and general thing completely imaginative femininity that they express.” Bendel be upping [budgets for] a couple merchandise manager of wom- and original, unlike anything Sarah Rutson, fashion direc- “Our customer is going to love of the collections here. They en’s fashion, Printemps else, ever. It was transporting to tor, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong the new sense of romance and were a lot more trend-driven “I feel brands are pushing the a faraway fairy fantasy but will “The number-one new trend the softer shapes. The prints in this season,” she said. “I think norms and limits of their own translate beautifully in real time has to be all the transparency. particular were great: the small it’s been excellent this time.” DNA. Playing that game is very with its great pattern mixes and The hand of the artist is also very fl orals at Cavalli were fresh and Rosi Biffi , owner, Biffi and challenging but necessary to cre- feminine movement. Dolce & evident, including brush strokes, the art-inspired prints took them Banner, Milan ate excitement and appeal to new Gabbana delivered one beauty splattering, ombré and color- to a new level. One couldn’t help “I’m very happy with the col- customers worldwide. The major after another, like an endless blocking. There is even some getting excited about the mod- lections. I loved Marni, its re- trends were techno Seventies, bo- bouquet. It was wonderful to see surrealism in the way designers ern art inspired prints at Dolce fi ned style, personal yet contem- hemian, Fifties rock and modern them play with this softened, are playing with proportions and & Gabbana; they took my breath porary; it’s a unique mélange art, while key elements include veiled sensuality. Jil Sander hemlines. I love the combina- away. The art nouveau prints of refi ned colors and very chic the color pink, Seventies knit- was so striking with a dramatic tions of pink and orange and the on easy tunics and dresses at shapes. I thought Gucci was fun, wear, bohemian blouses, patch- interplay between volumes and soft colors, the beiges and grays, Prada refl ect the softening up lively, couture yet modern, young work accessories, glamorous jer- interior to exterior.” which are the new replacement of the silhouette and that was and wearable; 6267 was wonder- sey and toga dresses, fl aring and Stephanie Solomon, vice for black and white.” Rutson said fresh to see. The fabrics, when ful, and so was Albino.” Biffi said wide-leg pants. Our budget will president of fashion direction at designers presented a smorgas- compared to last season, lost packing the shows into four days be slightly up as we are adding Bloomingdale’s bord of trends — from Seventies their rigidity. I also loved the was unbearable. “Even without Fendi to our brand portfolio and “Milan has just been burst- to Thirties to romantic to globe- zigzag patterns and fl oral prints the traffi c jams, there just was because we will enlarge our con- ing with color and bold dream- trotting — putting the onus on re- at Missoni, they had a Seventies no time for anything,” she said. kazuko our guardian angel 1942 - 2007 B 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 Making an Impact Some like it hot, and hot it was in this city for spring. From flowered heels to bright leathers, the season’s accessories standouts definitely rate a double take. — Shoshanna Fischhoff

Prada MILANspring ’08

Gucci

Valextra

Giuseppe Zanotti Bottega Veneta

Salvatore Ferragamo Jimmy Choo Cesare Paciotti WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Tod’s Furla Talent Hub Giorgio Armani

Burberry Prorsum

Dolce & Gabbana

Bally

Fendi

Marni

Hogan PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI, MAURICIO MIRANDA AND DAVE YODER AND DAVE MIRANDA MAESTRI, MAURICIO DAVIDE GIANNONI, STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 Under the Influences Designers’ inspirations for spring were notably varied, with certain recurring themes: Femininity, the Fifties and doll looks were cited by several, while others were in the sway of a Spanish theme or even classic illustrations of natural history.

“There is movement and velocity, like the architectural lines of a supermodern yacht. But there’s also a touch of the Twenties — with sleek speed and luxurious, nonchalant sports clothes.” — Albert Kriemler, Akris ▲ inspirationsParis inspirationsSpring ’08 — Christian Lacroix

— Tsumori Chisato

▲ “A fresh perspective on shaping innovative garments through analyzing Dyson products.” — Dai Fujiwara for Issey Miyake

▲ “Spanish inﬂ uences such as geometric bolero jackets and — Karl Lagerfeld embroidered tops and skirts. Nancy Cunard was also an inspiration for the jewelry and accessories.” — Bruno Pieters

— Ivana Omazic for Celine

— Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 9 WWD.COM

“Doll-like theatrical simplicity with a strong couture spirit. Relaxed glamour that is bold and graphic, yet romantic.” — Viktor & Rolf

— Antonio Marras for Kenzo

“A Leonard pant- “Fifties-meets- suit in Coptic and Seventies volumes. ﬂ ower print for the Trapeze skirts, high woman of luxury.” waists, trompe l’oeil — Daniel knits….Inspirations Tribouillard for include ‘Grey Gardens’ Leonard and ‘Abigail’s Party.’” — Sonia Rykiel

▲ “Prints, embroideries and blurred hues for a bohemian and sophisticated spirit.” — Michel Klein, Cher Michel Klein

— Antonio Berardi 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM

Paris “The full- inspirations skirted Spring ’08 gowns of the late Fifties.” — Elie Saab

▲ “My father gave me for my 12th birthday the complete volumes of Buffon’s ‘Histoire Naturelle,’ with extraordinary hand-colored prints illustrating the most marvelous things that exist on Mother Earth. I’ve always wanted to do something with these beautiful images….” — Andrew Gn

— Jeremy Scott’s Sewer dress.

— Martin Grant “True female nature.” — Estrella Archs “I wanted to go sharp, but twisted. And I like eternal cycles.” — Rick Owens ELD BY KARL LAGERFELD ELD BY “A feminine look in colorful prints from head to toe.” — Dries Van Noten

“Preciously excessive Japanese doll dresses.” — Robert Normand

▲ “The best of bohemian chic.” — Wolfgang Joop, Wunderkind

— Lefranc-Ferrant — Giambattista Valli PIETERS PHOTO BY MONSIEUR MARTIN CHAMBI; LEFRANC-FERRANT PHOTO BY GUY MARINEAU; ANDREW GN/BUFFON’S “HISTOIRE NATURELLE”; LAGERF ANDREW GN/BUFFON’S “HISTOIRE NATURELLE”; GUY MARINEAU; PHOTO BY CHAMBI; LEFRANC-FERRANT MONSIEUR MARTIN PIETERS PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 11 WWD.COM more from the shows... Fashion Scoops AMERICAN PIE: Dior is beefi ng up management in the will be hooking up for some more French folly during U.S. with one of its key European deputies, WWD Paris Fashion Week, this time for the launch of the fi fth has learned. The French fashion house has named edition of the British biannual magazine, Lula, guest Augustin de Buffevent as executive vice president of edited by Dunst. An “intimate” cocktail for the event Christian Dior Inc. He starts Oct. 1 and reports to will be held by Chanel at its salon on Rue Cambon, on Pamela Baxter, who recently was named president of the eve of its show Friday. The house also has reason to Dior’s U.S. arm, in addition to her role as president celebrate as Dunst sports a peach pleated dress from of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s Perfume and its cruise collection on the magazine’s cover. Cosmetics Group. De Buffevent has been general manager of Dior U.K. since 2005. HEAVY DINNER: Josie Natori, the Wall Street investment banker-turned-lingerie designer, will mark 30 years of SITTING PRETTY: At Emilio Pucci on Thursday, model creating naughty little nothings on Nov. 1 with several Trish Goff wasn’t strutting on the runway. “I’m just a of the retail world’s most powerful men: William Dillard guest, but I feel I know everyone here. I’m running 2nd of Dillard’s Department Stores, Michael Gould of around saying hi left and right,” said Goff, who revealed Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s Inc.’s Terry Lundgren, Peter one big project up her sleeve: a skin care line. She said Nordstrom of Nordstrom, Stephen I. Sadove of Saks it was too early to discuss details, but hinted that it’s Fifth Avenue and Burt Tansky of Neiman Marcus. Natori “with someone I know who is in this business.” and her husband, Kenneth, will throw a dinner for 90 at La Grenouille to “just have a good time,” she said. “A GET SHORTY: Christina Ricci may book titled “The Art of Natori” (Rizzoli, 2007) will be have been in Milan to launch handed out to guests. Natori will also do book signings CK’s new makeup and fashion Oct. 16 at Bergdorf Goodman and Oct. 18 at the lines, but the actress also found Rizzoli bookstore. She’ll also receive the Humanitarian Debora Ermanno time during her one-night stay Award from The Fashion Group on Oct. 25 at Cipriani. Sinibaldi Blugirl Scervino to meet up with some other The Natoris got a jump-start on their 30th designers. Ricci wouldn’t say anniversary festivities in May, when they hosted Debora Sinibaldi: Debora Sinibaldi played exactly who, but she named dinners for executives from Neiman Marcus, Saks to the versatility of women’s fashion Anna Molinari and Blumarine STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Dillard’s tastes in an eclectic outing that included among her current favorites. at their Manhattan home. Last month, they again Hamptons-perfect cardigan-and-skirt “I am really, really into Anna threw open their apartment for a dinner for 40 to ensembles with brushstroke-rose print Molinari. I’m a short girl and celebrate her 10-page spread in Elle Decor’s October pieces, beige safari jackets, items I like to wear short dresses, I Glamour issue. Elle Decor editor Margaret Russell and in brown-and-beige tribal prints and just love to look pretty,” she Christina Ricci Calvin Tsai, who oversaw the seven-year renovation of spliced black minidresses for disco fl ash. MILAN explained. Ricci said she was Natori’s home, hosted the event. Guests marveled at on a career break prior to the the designer’s well-organized and well-edited closet. Blugirl: A neon-lit diner backdrop set the spring ’08 release of her fi lms “Penelope” in November and “Speed The reason was partly because they were looking at tone for Anna Molinari’s interpretation of the Racer” in January. Natori’s “winter” closet; another one with summer “Happy Days” prom girl with leopard-print clothes was down the hall. jackets over circle skirts with rose motifs, full ROYAL TIME: Balmain has been busy entertaining its gingham dresses and dozens of frothy frocks, royal connections for Paris Fashion Week. The house POLICE SQUAD: Maybe it was tiered and layered, in tulle and organza. hosted a dinner for the Thai royal family at the Opera because he had just stepped Garnier on Saturday night, following a fashion show by out of a stadium, where he Ermanno Scervino: Dapper and innovative HRH Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana. The Thai princess jammed for nearly 80,000 outerwear is Ermanno Scervino’s cup of tea, attended the Balmain show the next day in the grand fans Saturday night in Paris, but for spring he gussied things up with a ballroom of the Westin hotel. Also in the front row, that Sting (the rocker-cum colorful lineup of printed and solid silk cocktail Philippe Starck confi rmed he’s been tapped to renovate rugger) had sports on his numbers in every variation on the theme. the Royal Monceau hotel, starting in April. “It will mind. “I’m for Ireland,” he represent all that is good about modern French design: said, during his after party Byblos: Designer Manuel Facchini said he luxurious, balanced and a little bit sexy,” he said. Artist at the VIP nightclub on the channeled the essence of Samurai women Peter Beard also grabbed some of the fashion action, Champs-Elysées, referring to with the geometry of Spanish architect camera in hand, having been in town for the Cubism the Rugby World Cup match Trudie Styler and Santiago Calatrava, which, translated from exhibition at the Picasso museum. “Being here reminds Sunday between Ireland Sting at the VIP fashion jargon, meant structured shapes me of when I brought Khadija to do Yves Saint Laurent and Argentina. “I used to Room in Paris. mixed with organic and feminine volumes in the Eighties,” said Beard, who’s been working on live there.” At the soiree, BIANCHI STEFANO PHOTO BY and lots of artsy pleats, folds and drapes. elephant collages in his uncle’s house in Cassis. the good sport and his wife, Trudie Styler, posed for snapshots with fans, as did the other members of The Derercuny: In workmanship, designer Mina ECO DISCO: Now even disco’s going green. Models Police — Andy Summers and Stewart Copeland. Lee favors refi ned subtlety, a fact that Jessica Stam and Carmen Kass are to host a teaser for shone through in her pretty summer dresses a new eco-friendly nightclub to open in New York. The HEART HELD: While some people wear their hearts on with rose applications, crisp white blouses event will take place Wednesday at the trendy Parisian their sleeves, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac prefers to adorned by beribboned necklines and cotton nightspot Le Baron. Dubbed “The Greenhouse,” the wear it on his shoulder. The iconic French designer has muslin tops over fringed silk satin skirts. soon-to-be-opened Stateside club, whose location is teamed up with Canon to design a limited edition of being kept a secret, will be fi tted with energy-saving white evening handbags with a red heart embroidery, Dusan: Serbian-born Dusan Paunovic disco bulbs and recycled tables to dance on. entire proceeds of which will be donated to the Red crafted pure, modern pieces — from high- Cross. “I drew a heart because it is the universal symbol neck, cape-sleeve cotton shirts to graphic Derercuny GOING DUTCH: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren will of sharing and generosity,” said Castelbajac, Thursday silk damask lab coats — for a focused and have a special guest at their Paris runway show on night at the Galerie W in Paris, where an exhibit of his refi ned collection. Tuesday — their new managing director. A fashion photographs and dresses imprinted with his snapshots newbie, Joost van Vollenhoven joins Viktor & Rolf from are on display until Oct. 14. The handbags, which Dusan consumer products giant Unilever. retail for 100 euros, or $138 at current exchange, are available at the Galerie W, in the Jean-Charles de LET THEM EAT CAKE: Kirsten Dunst and Sofi a Coppola Castelbajac store and at the Galeries Lafayette. Cavalli Opens in Paris s part of his ambitious plans to take Athe French capital by storm, Roberto Cavalli has opened a boutique on Avenue Montaigne. And, while the store may seem a teaser for the house’s seven-level flag- ship, which is expected to bow on Rue Saint-Honoré next year, the 5,400-square- foot space is notable in its own right. “I want to have a hot spot in the French capital because this marvelous city is an Roberto Cavalli’s store unquestionable style epicenter,” said on Avenue Montaigne. Cavalli. “Everything here oozes chic and elegance and, as a designer, I’m hugely inspired by Paris.” The women’s collection is located on the second level of the store, which boasts a brass-covered elevator, ivory-toned fl oors and brass- and gold-leaf-plated walls. A plethora of inviting furniture, such as brocade and shantung sofas and crocodile skin-covered units, enhances the luxurious vibe, Byblos as does a VIP room for select clients. Roberto Cavalli, 53 Avenue Montaigne, Paris; +33-1-5688-3770. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA MAESTRI AND MAURICIO GIANNONI, DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Brands in Tug-of-War With Private Label

By Karyn Monget Despite the growing presence of private brands, Robert Zarabi, president and chief executive of- he plethora of private label resources at last fi cer of Chatsworth, Calif.-based Felina Lingerie, Tmonth’s Lyon, Mode City trade fair in Lyon, said, “For fashion product, it’s very diffi cult to do France, hit on a touchy topic in the intimates indus- private label foundations and expect it to fi t right. try: brands versus private label. They can have the best quality control, but they Store brand sleepwear, robes, loungewear and don’t have the fi t model we do in the U.S. They take underwear have been prevalent in innerwear de- a 34B cup bra and grade it up to a 40DD. They are partments for the past decade because of the ease of simply copyists, so if they copy a La Perla bra, it recreating styles and trends from the major brands. doesn’t mean it will sell in the U.S. It’s easy to do But the realm of foundations — bras, shapers and sleepwear and panties, but you have to have the corsetry — has remained relatively clear of copyright people in place with 15 to 20 years of techno- ists because of the high level of technical expertise logical experience in the bra business.” needed to grade, fi t and design a product that offers Felina, which also produces bras by Jezebel, function, comfort and fashion. owns factories in Thailand. However, the Lyon fair was fi lled with a new “I think one of the expectations of this business is breed of manufacturers, designers and merchandis- the anticipation of high margins and I think private ers familiar with the intricacies of corsetry, with 41 label gives that to retailers,” said Josie Natori, ceo of fi rms from Mainland China and 18 from Hong Kong. Natori Co. “Clearly, we represent something else, a The specialized foundations trade has been fi ne- certain aesthetic. And we’ve been around 30 years.” tuned by growing demand for private label under- Bob Vitale, executive vice president of sales and garments from retailers that want to differentiate marketing at Wacoal America, said: “Superior fi t, themselves from competitors. that’s where the rubber hits the road. Whether it’s Consolidation continues to shrink the innerwear materials that are expensive and provide good fi t industry at all levels on a global basis, from fabric or the way the fi tting process is done, it’s question- makers and innerwear producers to retailers, and the able if a private label manufacturer can provide transition is creating a new business model where the proper fi tting bra.” major brands and specialty retailers are working di- Wacoal produces all of its products at company- rectly with fabric mills and their Asian suppliers to owned factories. provide innovative, new product, executives noted. Victoria Vandagriff, president of Bendon “The traditional big foundations brands are being USA, maker and distributor of Elle Macpherson killed by the promotional spiral and the move to pri- Intimates and Fayreform, said staying competitive vate brands, as well as the emergence of the big spe- is a matter of thinking outside the box. cialty brands where they are minor players,” said a “You have to understand why the retailers are foundations executive who did not want to be iden- getting into private label,” Vandagriff said. “EMI tifi ed. “Specialty retailers use the big brands to get Chantelle’s sexy and Bendon have developed a private label division into business, and then quickly develop their own African-inspired bra and the intent right now is less about addressing an design teams so they can go directly to Asian fac- and string bikini. EMI customer, but addressing a full-fi gure customer. tories and enjoy higher Four major retailers have come to us to do private margins. Plus it’s much Felina’s label, full-fi gure bras. It’s not about competing with faster to direct source.” seductive brands, it’s about being in the game and expanding our channel of distribution.” The Lyon show fea- sheer Sonja Winther, managing director of Chantelle, a high-end French bra brand, tured private label nightie said it’s imperative for a branded manufacturer to own manufacturing facilities. teams from a number with built- “I think it’s the right business model approach,” Winther said. “We are a verti- of U.S. stores, such as in bra. cal, integrated company where we own our own factories, so we’ll be less affected. Nordstrom, Dillard’s, J.C. We don’t go around shopping for factories for production and design. We develop Penney, Kohl’s, Victoria’s everything in-house.” Secret, Soma by Chico’s, One area that still appears to be withstanding the private label onslaught is Gap Body, Banana licensed characters. Richard Leeds, chairman of Richard Leeds International, Republic, Wal-Mart, whose company does sleepwear with characters like Tweety, Felix, Tinker Bell, Target and Lands’ End. Betty Boop and Mickey Mouse, said, “Some retailers have tried generic art with Scores of national novelty screens and prints. But it’s a real mistake if a person thinks an artist can be brands from the U.S. bought to do cute puppies and monkeys and think they’re getting Paul Frank.” and European markets From an entrepreneurial designer’s point of view, Leigh Bantivoglio said, that have traditionally “Private label has always been there, nipping at our feet, but now it’s a real threat. exhibited in Lyon were [Retailers and major manufacturers] may have the manufacturing capabilities, but absent. They included at the end of the day, they can do pieces and colors, but they can’t design.” Warner’s, Olga, Calvin One longtime manufacturer-turned-retailer who did not want to be named, sin- Klein Underwear, Bali, gled out last year’s May Department Stores Co.-Federated Department Stores Inc. Hanes, Lejaby, Lou, merger, now operating under the Macy’s Inc. nameplate, as the turning point for Aubade and Simone what he predicts will be the main contributor to a glut of proprietary labels in the Pérèle. Exceptions Leigh Bantivoglio’s Chantilly marketplace. So far, Macy’s has fi ve private innerwear brands: Alfani, I. Magnin, included long-estab- lace and silk gown. Morgan Taylor, Charter Club and, most recently, Jenni, which is merchandised in a lished French brands similar fashion to Pink by Victoria’s Secret. Chantelle, Empreinte, Lise Charmel, Cadolle, Rien, Princesse Tam Tam and Sabrina Nadal, as well as Natori and designer licensees like John Galliano, Alberta Ferretti, Féraud and Nina Ricci. The decline in longtime exhibitors, primarily top French foundations labels, began in 2006 when brands such as INTIMATE NOTES Aubade, Barbara, Huit, Lejaby, Simone Pérèle and Princesse Tam Tam did not participate, said Sandrine Dervin, director of international development at show producer Eurovet. SHOWCASING LINGERIE IN LONDON: Designer Samantha “Overall, the context of globalization and its impact and Chang staged her fi rst lingerie trade show in London at changes in the lingerie sector, including increased compe- the Fifty-Four Boutique Hotel in South Kensington. The tition, has forced brands to make strategic and budgetary two-day fair, which closed Sept. 18, featured 17 intimate choices to deal with these new problems,” Dervin said. apparel and swimwear brands — BedHead, Wendy Glez, The interest in private label innerwear is growing, ac- Commando, Myla, Emily B Lingerie, Amoralia, Aloe, cording to consumer panelist data from The NPD Group, Hoola, Papinelle, Julianne, Emobli, Zovo, Lelo, Fleur T, a Port Washington, N.Y.-based research fi rm. From July- Sommes Chic, Samantha Chang and And God Created August 2005 to July-August 2007, private brand innerwear Woman — showing spring merchandise. has increased in dollar and unit sales, as well as average “We had about 80 buyers, including Harvey Nichols retail price point. Over the two-year span, dollar volume and Fenwicks, as well as buyers from small luxury Wendy Glez’s Samantha of private label innerwear rose to $4.79 billion from $4.14 boutiques, mostly regional,” Chang said. “There also were festive lace and Chang’s sultry billion, and unit volume grew to $555.3 million from $527.7 a lot of Web site businesses like Figleaves.com, stylists chiffon baby doll. sheer chemises. million. Dollar volume of national brands, primarily and consumer press.” foundations, during the same period totaled $4.52 billion Chang added, “We plan to do a Boutique Lingerie against $3.95 billion, while unit volume inched up to $791.9 London show twice a year during London Fashion Week. We haven’t decided the date for the next show, but it should be million from $715.2 million. around mid-February at the same location.” The average retail for private label innerwear in- She described the fair as “both a writing show and a get-to-know everybody show.” creased to $8.63 compared with $7.84, while national “We had a cocktail party every day from 5 to 7 p.m., and it was great because everybody including retailers, exhibitors brands averaged $5.71 from $5.52. Private label’s average and stylists were able to connect,” Chang said.

unit price increased to $8.63 from $7.84. ERICKSEN KYLE FELINA BY MITRA; ROBERT PETER LINDBERGH; BANTIVOGLIO BY CHANTELLE PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 13 WWD.COM Accessories Report A British Sensibility Bag Brigade

Blossoms in TriBeCa iktor Horsting and VRolf Snoeren will By Sharon Edelson soon have the accessories market in the bag — liter- NEW YORK — With its library shelves and rolling ladder, pale walls, ally. Already known for fab comfortable wing chairs and glossy fireplace mantle, Edon Manor, shoes, the dynamic Viktor looks like a modern interpretation of the proper English library. But & Rolf duo is launching a Edon Manor’s shelves aren’t filled with books, they’re occupied by collection of handbags this shoes and handbags. spring with Italian manu- The 1,200-foot-store, which will open on Nov. 1 at 391 facturing company Gibò. Greenwich Avenue in TriBeCa, was inspired by owner Davinia They worked closely to- Wang’s much larger country estate of the same name in gether to create the inaugu- Oxford, England. It is projected to do more than $1 million in ral collection, which boasts ﬁ rst-year sales. ﬁ ve styles in lacquered calf Designers such as Givenchy, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino (patent leather), silk satin, Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting and Azzedine Alaïa will be featured. Wang, who has an aver- lizard, textured kidskin STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY

sion to anything glitzy or ostentatiously showy, said she avoided and finely woven raffia. PETER STIGTER PHOTOS BY lines like Jimmy Choo. In addition to the well-known European Each was named in the quirky style typical of the designers: The What’s names, Wang will showcase emerging designers, including Good Evening, Just A Moment, What’s Up and I’m Fine. Up bag. Rupert Sanderson, Carmen Ho, Tanya Spinelli and Laurence “Viktor and Rolf named the bags themselves,” said Dacade, who designs the Givenchy shoe collection as well as Gibò accessories director Marina Pizzuto. “They wanted his own line of footwear. Proenza Schouler, Derek Lam and the names to have a conversation.” That they do. Mulberry round out the roster. The bags themselves, which come in black, white, The Good Evening bag. The I’m “We’re very into the idea of nurturing young designers,” said brown and pink, each have varying signature Viktor Fine bag. Wang, who buys lines differently than stores such as Barneys & Rolf touches. What’s Up, a rounded-frame piece, New York and Bergdorf Goodman, which may carry some of the is stamped with the Viktor & Rolf seal. The I’m Fine same collections. drawstring bucket bag is pulled together by a chain “The reason I [wanted to] do a store is because I like run- linked with the designer’s classic bows. One of the way shoes, but not a lot of people cater to that customer,” said three evening styles, Just A Moment, is a framed Wang, who graduated from Parsons the New School for Design number that snaps together with two metal “fl ow- last summer. “I bought the edgier brands and the classics and erbombs” from the designers’ perfume. got rid of all the stuff in the middle” she said, referring to me- The collection will wholesale from about diocre styles. $600 to $1,000. This is Gibò’s fi rst handbag Wang plans to introduce jewelry with a distinctive personal- collection since the fi rm bought Tuscany- ity. “I’m meeting with Lanvin after the store opens,” she said. based Frassinetti, a factory that has been “Lanvin jewelry is not too delicate. I like more chunky jew- working with Prada for more than 20 years. elry. I like Marni too. It can be worn in a sophisticated way or The designers have not yet decided whether dressed down.” the bags will appear on their spring runway. “We’re in talks with a manufacturer of custom headbands,” said Ryan Korban, creative director of Edon Manor. “We’re going to sell small leather goods and maybe a fragrance.” Prices for footwear range from $300 for Carmen Ho to $1,500 for a pair of Alaïas. Handbags are priced from $700 to $2,000. “My idea is strictly accessories,” Wang said when asked whether she’ll carry the designers’ apparel. “I’ll have Fogal stockings and Broia, a cashmere brand of legwear from Scotland.’’ At Edon Manor, which was designed by Kramer Design Group, antique books from Strand will be interspersed with shoes as ac-

Edon Manor is designed to look like a modern English library. SKETCH BY WES COX SKETCH BY

cents. An antique armoire from Paris holds more shoes and bags, while an old birdbath pedestal topped with a round bevel-cut mir- ror showcases still more styles. Round tufted white ottomans sur- round the table, and a dove gray banquette provides more seating. Curtains of sea-foam turquoise taffeta frame the large windows while a ﬁ replace mantel painted high gloss black provides drama. Tea will be served to customers with the hope, Wang said, “that people stay a while.” Wang wanted the store to be off the beaten path. “TriBeCa reminds me of my old neighborhood in London, Holland Park,” said the Hong Kong-born and London-bred Wang. “It’s very elegant.” “We’re trying to tap into a younger girl who loves luxury…. The entire design process is pushing against anything that’s ornate,” Korban said, referring both to the store design and the products. “There’s no embellishment, no diamonds or any adornment at all on the shoes,” Wang added. “But there will be plenty of sparkle in different ways.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007

Watch Report Movado’s Museum Dial Turns 60 By Sophia Chabbott public offering in 1993. arts, was a close friend of Warhol’s. The Last month, Movado, which also owns art plastered all over the walls is meant “WHEN ALBERT EINSTEIN CON- watch fi rms such as Ebel and ESQ and to inspire and foster creativity and fas- gratulates you on your design, you holds licenses for Coach, Lacoste and cination, including the collection of 250 know you’ve done something well,” said Juicy Couture, reported an 8 percent rise kitschy cookie jars Warhol collected. Movado Group Inc. president and chief in second-quarter earnings, bolstered by “At that time [in 1947], [the Museum executive officer Efraim Grinberg of the international business and expansion of Dial] was a shocking design,” said brand’s Museum Dial watch, which cel- licensed brands. For the three months Grinberg. “The DNA of Movado began with ebrates its 60th anniversary this year. ended July 31, net income climbed to innovation and design. We have always The Nathan George Horwitt-designed $12.3 million, or 45 cents a diluted share, been really focused on design and modern timepiece that drew Einstein’s accolades from $11.3 million, or 43 cents, in the design in particular. The consumer also embodies the modernist movement of the year-ago period. understands and appreciates good art.” time, with its austere markerless black Sales for the quarter jumped 10 per- As such, the company over the years dial with a single silver cent to $139.5 million, while has collaborated with some of its favorite dot at the 12 hour and thin same-store sales fell 2.3 artists on limited edition watches for its Movado’s silver hands for the min- percent. For the six-month Artists’ Series, including Warhol, Arman Museum Dial utes and hours. Though period, earnings increased and Max Bill. In 2005, the brand called has become designed in 1947, it wasn’t slightly to $14.7 million on upon the designers of Proenza Schouler an icon. produced until 1960. sales that swelled 7.4 percent to create a watch. Now the style, which is to $240.8 million. “We want to give our consumers a rea- in permanent museum col- The brand is sold in chain, son to buy the next Movado,” said presi- new for the brand, which also created the lections around the world, department and specialty dent worldwide Jeffrey Cohen, who has world’s fi rst waterproof watch, as well as is getting its due. The fi rm stores and has 31 of its own been with the fi rm for 25 years. “That’s a curved wristwatch and a self-winding will host an event on Oct. 24 boutiques, which are primar- what drives our business.” pocket watch. at New York’s Cooper- Efraim ily based in malls in cities In tandem with the anniversary of In a time when $1 million watches are Hewitt National Design Grinberg such as Chicago, Los Angeles the Museum Dial, Movado is launching selling left and right, Grinberg said: “Today, Museum, to which a bevy and New York. In addition to a number of limited editions with the there are very few people that want to of its brand ambassadors, watches, jewelry is a growing famous dial. The Movado 60th Museum wear the same watch every day. It’s no including Mia Maestro and Mikhail category for the brand. This year, Movado Colored Dial Collection, retailing for $595 longer about aspiring to own one watch.” Baryshnikov, plan to attend. will unveil its most extravagant and ex- to $695, has a 38-ml. case with colorful dial Exports of Swiss watches increased Lavish parties aside, Grinberg — who pensive piece to date: a multistrand and strap combinations, such as a purple 22.7 percent in February, the most recent with his father, Gedalio, bought Movado gold necklace with diamond detailing, at dial with a java lizard strap or a red dial month reported, boosted primarily by in 1983 after acquiring Concord in 1970 $60,995. The jewelry is sold exclusively in with a red ostrich strap. There is also a gains in the most expensive timepieces, — is honing his focus on the product and Movado boutiques. one-of-a-kind oversize 60-ml. dial set with according to the Federation of the Swiss namely on the art, accessibility and iconic “The Museum Dial is something diamonds at a cost of $50,000 and Museum Watch Industry. status of the dial that enabled the brand we’re very proud of,” said Grinberg, in- Dial belt buckle on an alligator strap. Of late, Movado has been expanding to become the dominant timepieces play- terviewed at the company’s Paramus, Another special style is the Concept its Chinese business, pitching the bur- er in its price category of $500 to $1,500. N.J., headquarters, which are fi lled with 60 watch, which features an entire case geoning middle class there. The brand Efraim Grinberg, who was named modern paintings and sculpture from the made from sapphire crystal, a big ac- also has a signifi cant share of the market president and chief operating offi cer in likes of Arman and Andy Warhol. Havana- complishment in the Swiss watch world. in North America, Europe, the Middle

1990, spearheaded the company’s initial born Gedalio Grinberg, a patron of the Design and technical innovation is not East and the Caribbean. MITRA ROBERT GRINBERG PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 15 WWD.COM

A Badgley Mischka watch covered in jet crystal.

censes for Anne Klein and JLO by Jennifer Lopez watches, but after unveiling its partnership with Zac Posen in August and now Badgley Dressing Up Watches Mischka, the company is looking forward to entering the designer- level market. By Caroline Tell “This was a strong collaboration for us,” said Mark Oppenheimer, senior vice president at E. Gluck. “From a design ark Badgley and James Mischka describe their new watch element, we were able to respect what these guys do, and they Mcollection as “jewelry that happens to tell time.” respected our know-how and experience in the fi eld. There With black grosgrain ribbon straps, crystal detailing and was a mutual respect as watchmakers and designers. We are chunky hardware fi nishes, Badgley Mischka Watches are all also so enthusiastic about entering the better arena.” about fashion meets function. But with a little help from E. The 30 styles of Badgley Mischka Watches retail from Gluck Corp., the licensee behind the line, these decked-out $295 to $795, the higher range corresponding to a leath- timepieces promise to serve their purpose. er piece covered in faceted crystals and another with Bowing for spring, Badgley Mischka Watches are the 18th dangling crystals. category the brand has launched since starting its eveningwear Badgley Mischka will bow the watches for November market, collection 19 years ago. According to the design duo, this next step but expects to get them into doors where its other categories, such was an easy one. as sportswear and its new Platinum Day Bag collection, are already. “We’ve always had a fascination with watches,” Badgley said. “And it Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s are all major felt like a very natural progression for us. E. Gluck is a big player in the accounts for the brand. industry and could appreciate what we do. They did an amazing job incorpo- “We want people to treat these watches as they would jewelry,” said rating our signature details that harken back to our dresses.” Badgley. “They are not everyday watches, necessarily — but we want them to For E. Gluck, the opportunity was equally special. The fi rm holds the li- make people smile.”

Breguet opened a fl agship on the Place Vendôme.Vendome. Luxe Time In Paris By Robert Murphy PARIS — With high-end watches enjoying strong business, more luxury watch brands are opening shops in the City of Light. Executives said Paris at- tracts just the right mix of clientele, from rich Russian oligarchs to high-fl ying oil mo- guls from the Middle East. Emblematic of its faith in the luxury segment, Swatch Group opened a sprawling fl agship for its most presti- gious brand, Breguet, on the Place Vendôme this summer. At 5,000 square feet, it is the largest to date for the brand and offers watches costing as much as 500,000 euros, more than $700,000 at current exchange. With a clean, modern decor, the store displays some 150 different Breguet styles. The store spotlights the brand’s provenance in a museum on the second fl oor. Across the Seine, on the Left Bank, one of Rolex’s distributors, Jean Lassaussois, has opened the fi rst shop in Paris exclusively dedicated to the pres- tigious Swiss brand. Though Rolex doesn’t operate its own retail locations, the shop’s decor was supervised by the company. With green marble floors and walls covered in leather, the shop is a chic frame for the ultimate power watch. Back on the Right Bank, the Rue Saint-Honoré is shaping up as a watch-lover’s paradise. In February, Hublot opened there and this month, Audemars Piguet is launching its fi rst shop on the street. Although the brand re- fused to provide details, pre- ferring to create a surprise when the store opens, it did let slip that a special watch line had been designed to celebrate the kickoff. 16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM The Minx: One Woman, Many Talents

By Rachel Strugatz Heidi Minx and her husband, eidi Minx, née Heidi Willis from Baltimore, is a hyphenate career extraordinaire. Benjamin Lowe. HThe marketing consultant, entrepreneur, do-it-yourself expert, artist, lifestyle fashion designer, DJ, author, advice columnist and one-woman public relations show rede- fines the word “career” with her expansive list of current professions. “Gorgeous! I think we got it!” said Eric Vogel, the photographer at Minx’s recent cover shoot for Tattoos for Men. The Minx, as she is often called, was clad in her signature look of a leather and rhinestone corset, fi shnet tights, scarlet cat’s-eye glasses and the plethora of tattoos almost completely covering her arms and chest, posing beside her husband, Benjamin Lowe. She leaned seductively toward her husband as Vogel shot the couple on the roof of their East Village building. For the shoot, Minx’s entourage included plastic pet fl amingos Pinky Lee and Pinky Sue, as well as friends Rosela J, the designated makeup artist, and Los Angeles- based pinup model Heidi Van Horne. “Collaborating with Heidi is one of my favorite things,” said Vogel, another close friend of Minx’s who is an expert in environmental portraiture. “She A MONTHLY REPORT knows what she wants, she’s a very driven woman and I am drawn to that. HR She’s high-energy and has a stylistic sense that is rarely seen nowadays.” Spiritually, 35-year-old Minx is a devout Buddhist, seeking solace in the religion she credits with teaching her that the ego is the root of all evil and to take responsibility for her actions. She has also favored vegetarianism since childhood, ordering a bevy of Thai appetizers from her favorite neighborhood haunt, Pukk, during the shoot. Minx gushed about her husband of almost six months, the 28-year-old Lowe. Lowe, who had a corporate job in Boston, is now a sky diving instructor sporting a mohawk that alternates between royal blue and red (it’s presently blue). The couple was introduced by friends and after they started sending messages via networking Web site Moli.com, they fi nally met in person and were engaged nearly two weeks later. “There’s not a lot of gray in my life,” said Minx. “Love is a really strong emotion, and if you experience it you just know it’s right, but I think part of it might be the Buddhism.” Minx was born with p.r. in her blood, crediting her family-run p.r. agency as the reason she went into the business after receiving a degree from Towson University in Maryland. In 2006, Minx was voted one of the 10 Most Infl uential Marketers of the Next Generation by Brandweek, the article likening her to an alternative Martha Stewart. She is known chiefl y for her work as a marketing consultant, with an emphasis on the teen demographic. Minx is also one of the founders of fashion lifestyle brand Franky & Minx. The six-year-old brand, with a recent relaunch in February 2007, uses Love is a really strong emotion, and if you “experience it you just know it’s right. ” — Heidi Minx colorful tattoo art, skulls, grommets and its logo on a multitude of clothing and accessories, thanks to a series of successful licensing deals inked on Minx’s behalf. Franky & Minx brand T-shirts, underwear, hosiery, wristbands, hats, handbags and belts can be found at such retailers as Claire’s and Spencer Gifts. “With Franky & Minx, what it comes down to is that everything that has to do with the brand is very much the brand,” said Minx, who started hand-making underwear and tank tops for her company. “If you look at any market study now, it says that what actually sells and that what youth is into is anything that is authentic.” Around two years ago, Minx, continually on a quest to educate American youth, created a do-it-yourself community called Punk Rock Domestics in order to expand the lifestyle aesthetic she created with Franky & Minx. Initially, she put up video interviews with her friends from the music and publishing industries on MySpace to give kids advice on how to break into each business, which then expanded to include tips from how to apply eye shadow to how to make stencils on PunkRockDomestics.com.

At a recent business meeting at Café Brama on Second Avenue, ERIC VOGEL PHOTO BY Minx met with friend Alan Robert, from the bands Life of Agony and Spoiler NYC, to discuss the upcoming ads that Robert is going to de- accents and Franky & Minx artwork. On her way back to her apartment sign for the Franky & Minx brand. In addition to being well-known in to prepare for the upcoming Tattoos for Men shoot, Minx made a stop the music scene, Minx insisted that Robert is a brilliant graphic artist. to the SoHo offi ces of YRB Magazine for a meeting with publisher David Following the meeting with Robert, she had appointments with Quantum Licensing, Ishay before returning to her place to get her hair and makeup done. the new partners that are helping Minx expand her empire to Europe, and Aquarius In between appointments, Minx made it a point to drop off her old Treo at the local Ltd., Franky & Minx’s belt licensee. After reviewing templates for new leather and Staples after receiving a BlackBerry Pearl as a gift from her husband the previous leather alternative belts, Minx hopped on a subway to pick up a Delia semi-hollow- day. “Oh, they have a program that recycles and gives cell phones to women who can’t body electric guitar from First Act Guitars that she was going to design with her per- afford them so they can make emergency 911 calls,” she said matter-of-factly as she sonal touches: metallic gilding, stenciling, old music advertisements, découpaged plaid jumped on the 6 train for her next meeting. Universities Offer Grad Program in Apparel Via Internet he University of Delaware is now offering a gradu- Compliance and Culture & Work in the Apparel interests that infl uence the decisions and policies for Tate certificate program in Socially Responsible and Industry. For spring, two options are Redesigning the textile and apparel industries around the world, Sustainable Apparel Business — a program also open Green Apparel: Design, Sourcing & Packaging, and touching upon factors such as ethics, government, inter- to students attending Cornell University and Colorado Socially Responsible Apparel: Global Policy. Fall 2008 national labor standards and environment regulations. State University. courses include Bringing Social Responsibility to According to the University of Delaware Graduate Students elect either a labor or environmental focus, Apparel Corporate Culture and Worker-Centric Social Certifi cate Program Web site, the plan is to eventually and take seven required courses plus two in the selected Responsibility for the Apparel Industry. open the course work to include students enrolled at track, to complete the program. Participants, whether stu- In Redesigning Green Apparel, students learn about other higher education institutions. dents or instructors, are from all three universities, and the the challenges to environmental stewardship in design, The project director is Marsha Dickson, professor offered coursework involves interaction via the Internet. sourcing and packaging of apparel, textiles and footwear and chair in the department of fashion and apparel Issues covered in both tracks include global supply chains products, the course description said. Innovative prac- studies at the University of Delaware. The University for the apparel, textile and footwear industries. tices, visionary leadership and social change also are ex- Web site said that students interested in the spring se- Each class lasts for fi ve weeks. Options this fall in- amined. Students who sign up for Socially Responsible mester should apply no later than Jan. 1. clude Current Initiatives for Apparel Industry Labor Apparel: Global Policy analyze the political and profi t — Vicki M. Young Does your Inbox have its own Zip Code? Take back control. workwork smart(er)smart(er)

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New York • Los Angeles • San Francisco • Orange County • Seattle • Boston • London 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 Obituaries WWD.COM Chanel’s Artistic Director Helleu, 69

By Jennifer Weil mense talents and unique vision have a Chanel No.5 campaign] they defi ned Chanel as the ultimate house become stars.” PARIS — Jacques Helleu, Chanel’s artis- of luxury, with an unparalleled global Cases in point? MacGraw, tic director for more than four decades, presence,” she wrote. “He succeeded in who was shot while still an as- died Friday at age 69 after a long illness. bringing Chanel into the 21st century as a sistant to legendary fashion edi- Helleu was the driving force behind leader in the world of exclusivity. tor Diana Vreeland, and Bergen, the image of the Chanel beauty busi- “‘Taste is a gift,’ he often confessed,” before she made it big. ness, whose No.5 fragrance remains the the statement continued. “He guided us Kidman, however, was al- perennial bestseller worldwide. Helleu, in his artistic choices, which have given ready a major star when she was who joined Chanel at age 18, was also Chanel its worldwide aura.” signed on to feature in a mini- in charge of image for the company’s Throughout his career, Helleu main- fi lm directed by Luhrmann for fi ne jewelry and its watch collection, for tained the continuous rejuvenation of a Chanel No.5. It aired in 2004. which he designed the timepieces, such brand’s advertising is key to its longev- Among those considered the as the J12. ity. He said vital to such an approach is most creative Chanel No.5 cam- Under his tutelage, the company has “simplicity,” a keystone fi rst laid down by paigns was “Share the Fantasy.” had a long history of cinematic and fan- Gabrielle Chanel for the premiere Chanel Kicked off in 1979 by Scott’s tasy-themed advertising in both fi lm and No.5 ad in 1921. And it subsequently un- “Pool” ad, a surreal spot involv- print form, counting Catherine Deneuve, derlined all of the fragrances’ campaigns, ing a woman, a plane and a pool, Ali MacGraw, Candice Bergen, Kate Moss, each an iteration of the same story. “Share the Fantasy” is the dream- CHANEL AD FROM GASLIGHT ARCHIVES BENAROCH/SIPA; PHOTO BY Nicole Kidman and, most recently, Keira But that wasn’t all. Many of the Chanel like, post-Deneuve advertising. Knightley among its celebrity pitchwom- No.5 ads radiated a certain je ne sais “It was rather extraordi- en. Filmmakers and photographers who quoi due to their use of actress-models. nary. There were so many acci- have worked on Chanel campaigns in- The fi rst of that newfangled breed was dents in that fi lm,” reminisced clude Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Jean- Deneuve, the face of Chanel No.5 from Helleu. For one, it was a fl uke Paul Goude, Baz Luhrmann, Luc Besson 1968 to 1976. Helleu said he chose her not the plane’s loops were in sync and Ridley Scott. because Deneuve was already a star, but with the music. “That’s what Maureen Chiquet, the company’s after he spotted her in a tiny photograph is interesting [in advertising]. global chief executive offi cer, praised on the cover of Look magazine. You can’t have rigidity, story- Helleu’s career in a memo to Chanel “It called her ‘the most beautiful boards, control.” employees. woman in the world,’” he reminisced dur- Indeed, it was this vision that “His larger-than-life personality, im- ing an interview for WWD Beauty Biz, a made him unique to work with, sister publication of WWD, collaborators said. in 2002. “I said there was Rather than commanding something magical in that.” too much control, which could There was resistance easily squelch creativity, Helleu gave cal sense (“often with a lot of humor”) to Deneuve by the agency a few words to inspire a photographer, and exigency “to never do things in a me- that until 1968 had created said Dominique Issermann, who began diocre fashion.” the No.5 campaigns, since working with Helleu at Chanel with a Goude, who was behind such cam- she was by no means a fragrance ad featuring Carole Bouquet paigns as the one for Coco starring household name and didn’t in 1997. Since then, Issermann has lensed Vanessa Paradis in a birdcage, said speak English very well. But numerous Chanel print campaigns, Helleu approached fragrance advertis- Helleu’s dream ultimately the most recent of which is the Coco ing “in a fl amboyant way, not the meek became reality, and the ads Mademoiselle ad starring Knightley. way in which it had been done and is still in which Deneuve speaks of “He wanted me to understand what he sometimes done.” her intimate relationship meant with two or three words,” she said. Goude recalled working on the Egoiste with the scent (she says she “He wanted you to collaborate with him. fragrance campaign, in which dozens of wears Chanel No.5 behind “Jacques was an image fanatic,” she models shout “egoist” from as many of a her knees, for instance) met continued. “He collected photographs building’s windows. with rave reviews. The cam- and was a good painter. He was very so- “It was really groundbreaking, a really paign “completely revived phisticated and elegant and it came from fresh way of doing advertising,” he said. Chanel No.5,” said Helleu. the heart. Jacques had a total reverence, “Jacques really believed in the projects In the early days of respect and love for Chanel.” we did together. They were artistic. Deneuve and No.5, celeb- She added that, at the same time, he “I owe Jacques a big, big hunk of my rity advertising was in its was irreverent, always saying things on career. He took lots of chances with me. nascent phase. But now the edge. We did really good work together,” said it’s all the rage. And yet, “Jacques Helleu was a great person- Goude. “I’ll miss him; the whole industry Chanel continues luring ality, a great talent,” said photographer will — and more.” new and faithful clients via Patrick Demarchelier, who worked on Helleu was born in Boulogne-sur- models chosen “for certain Chanel campaigns, including Allure’s. Seine, France, on June 30, 1938. He is characteristics, be it beau- “He was very kind and had humor.” survived by his wife, fi ve children, a sis- ty or style,” said Helleu. Ines de la Fressange — who was pho- ter and four grandchildren. “It frequently has hap- tographed for Chanel ads, including for A private funeral will be held in Paris One of Jacques Helleu’s Chanel No.5 ads. pened that after [being in Coco — lauded Helleu for his ease, criti- on Tuesday afternoon. Jewelry Designer Kazuko, 65 Gaultier’s Board President, By Caroline Tell in magic, but if I did, it would be her.” Doonan recalled the fi rst time he met Kazuko and Dominique Emschwiller, 64 NEW YORK — Kazuko Oshima, a Japanese jewelry being charmed by her eccentricity. designer and “guardian angel” to Barneys New York, “When I met her, she was wearing all black,” he PARIS — Dominique Emschwiller, one of Jean Paul died on Friday of what was believed to be esophageal said. “But she said her acupuncturist told her that Gaultier’s closest collaborators for almost three decades cancer. She was 65. the black was shriveling her intestinal organs, so she and president of the company’s supervisory board, died Oshima, who went only by Kazuko, sold exclusive- started wearing white.” Aug. 7 after a long illness. She was 64. ly to the specialty store in each of its U.S. locations. Kazuko came to New York as a Fulbright Scholar The company recently revealed Emschwiller’s She got her start in 1986 designing ethereal-looking in the Sixties and soon involved herself in the perfor- death and said a memorial service would be held scarves, the most famous of which adorned Madonna mance art scene. She befriended such luminaries as Thursday at 7:30 p.m. at Eglise Saint Médard, 141 Rue in her video “Like a Virgin.” It was recently sold at Andy Warhol, Robert Frank and Bianca Jagger. Mouffetard, here. auction for $15,000. “She had a phenomenal reach in the fashion, Emschwiller met Gaultier when she was manager of But Kazuko was best known for her jewelry, art and entertainment industries,” Doonan said. the avant-garde Left Bank fashion boutique Bus Stop her technique involving caging wire around differ- “She had this ‘Dada’ sensibility about her and and became a champion of his designs, signing on as his ent stones and titling them “One of One Healing lived an extraordinary life. She connected to peo- commercial director. Sculptures.” Kazuko would affi x a handwritten note ple through her jewelry and had a magical effect In a statement, the company called Emschwiller to each piece detailing the specifi c healing properties on people.” “one of the pillars of the company” who contributed each stone had. According to Doonan, when Kazuko was diagnosed to the “development of the house thanks to her in- Those who knew her claimed she was just that, a healer. a year ago, she said that fi ghting cancer would be- nate sense of fashion and her great human and rela- “I’m the most cynical person in the world, but come her “new art.” tional qualities.” when I put a Kazuko crystal on, I felt better,” said Barneys New York is paying tribute to the designer Emschwiller was also a director of Gaulme, a holding Simon Doonan, creative director of Barneys and a with special shadow-box jewelry windows that will of the Jean Paul Gaultier Group. The designer is slated longtime friend of Kazuko. “I defi nitely don’t believe read “Kazuko, Our Guardian Angel, 1942–2007.” to show his spring collection on Tuesday in Paris. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 19 WWD.COM Financial

Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 84.92 65.75 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 16.1 23693 80.70 0.87 46.16 27.06 Jos. A Bank (JOSB) 13.1 4806 33.42 -3.06 28.75 21.19 Acadia (AKR) 61.2 2665 27.13 -0.36 34.84 14.21 Kellwood (KWD) 4.7 5628 17.05 -0.53 Year-to-date change in 31.88 18.29 Aéropostale (ARO) 12.8 17239 19.06 -1.05 28.32 18.84 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 16.3 805 19.37 -0.64 26.23 17.01 Alberto Culver (ACV) 11.4 4371 24.79 -0.75 72.79 63.79 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 18.3 17279 70.26 0.30 the S&P 500: 8% 3.45 1.45 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 13.8 1239 1.78 0.24 53.60 33.74 Kimco Realty (KIM) 30.9 17617 45.21 -0.55 34.80 21.46 American Eagle (AEO) 14.1 50077 26.31 0.51 79.55 52.50 Kohl’s (KSS) 15.6 41969 57.33 -2.94 45.15 27.05 Ann Taylor (ANN) 17.5 6055 31.67 -0.79 37.81 21.57 K-Swiss (KSWS) 13.8 1727 22.91 0.24 Year-to-date change in 8.61 5.50 Ashworth (ASHW) - 418 6.15 -0.20 22.99 11.63 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 17.0 11 17.86 -0.36 41.85 28.99 Avon (AVP) 30.0 53398 37.53 2.39 15.28 11.10 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 18.2 14 11.70 -0.27 the S&P Retail Index: 15.75 3.30 Bakers (BKRS) - 144 4.46 0.76 32.60 20.73 Limited Brands (LTD) 11.6 32579 22.89 -0.21 26.86 12.35 Bebe (BEBE) 18.1 3500 14.63 -0.44 24.23 10.84 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 30.9 3084 10.99 -0.23 -6.5% 40.00 28.67 Benetton (BNG) 43.1 31 34.06 1.05 46.84 30.89 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 17.9 13417 34.33 -0.62 18.00 12.20 Big Dog (BDOG) - 12 15.52 -0.13 13.15 3.65 LJ Intl. (JADE) 17.0 10401 4.91 0.78 9.60 6.49 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 6.3 0 6.75 0.10 39.39 29.16 Luxottica (LUX) 23.1 1212 33.88 -1.15 Year-to-date change in 39.15 27.57 BJs (BJ) 22.6 7668 33.16 -0.96 103.59 71.22 Macerich (MAC) 106.3 7196 87.58 3.15 4.75 0.60 Blue (BLUE) - 1851 0.89 0.09 46.70 28.51 Macy’s Inc. (M) 18.6 37601 32.32 -0.80 shares of Gap Inc.: -4.1% 1.60 0.80 Bluefly (BFLY) 9.0 316 0.91 0.01 24.49 15.03 Maidenform (MFB) 11.3 1857 15.88 -1.19 57.66 17.52 Bon-Ton (BONT) 10.8 3582 22.72 -1.77 56.64 36.20 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 15.1 5782 50.52 0.53 37.68 18.53 Brown Shoe (BWS) 13.9 3979 19.40 -2.17 26.31 17.54 Marcus (MCS) 18.0 1913 19.20 -2.27 Number of mainline 41.45 24.75 Buckle (BKE) 17.8 823 37.94 -0.84 57.65 14.48 Mothers Work (MWRK) 25.9 683 18.67 0.02 telephones in use in Italy 26.32 12.50 Caché (CACH) 45.5 1399 17.85 -0.15 35.40 24.51 Movado (MOV) 16.8 1281 31.92 -1.44 28.57 14.76 Capitalsource (CSE) 12.0 12528 20.24 0.94 3.50 0.75 Movie Star (MSI) 233.0 77 2.26 -0.05 (2005): 25.1 million 30.18 18.92 Carter (CRI) - 6447 19.95 0.01 25.95 20.20 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 17.9 3648 24.38 0.17 15.10 8.99 Casual Male (CMRG) 7.8 3509 8.96 -1.07 16.20 5.76 New York & Co. (NWY) 9.0 5858 6.10 -0.49 25.66 17.60 Cato (CTR) 13.3 1169 20.44 -1.31 60.99 43.46 Nike (NKE) 17.4 31881 58.66 1.40 Number of cellular 50.36 28.36 CBL (CBL) 30.6 5039 35.05 -0.19 9.38 2.05 Nitches (NICH) 241.0 24 2.47 0.15 12.74 8.94 CCA (CAW) 14.2 34 9.46 -0.12 59.70 42.06 Nordstrom (JWN) 17.1 30203 46.89 -3.85 phones in use in Italy 12.40 3.75 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 15.4 1524 4.03 0.09 29.03 16.67 Oakley (OO) 38.2 740 29.03 0.08 33.93 14.55 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 8.8 10301 14.64 -2.29 6.77 3.25 Orange 21 (ORNG) - 19 4.96 0.18 (2005): 71.5 million 15.57 7.67 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 11.8 12327 8.40 -0.50 25.00 5.00 Orchids Paper (TIS) 32.6 3 8.19 0.20 74.00 34.21 Chattem (CHTT) 21.6 3771 70.52 3.42 53.98 33.04 Oxford (OXM) 12.4 1025 36.12 -0.90 48.76 34.25 Cherokee (CHKE) 10.1 494 38.36 0.52 23.11 13.00 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 374.3 17081 14.80 -1.05 27.94 13.95 Chico’s (CHS) 16.8 11515 14.05 -0.60 7.97 2.63 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 1342 3.89 0.03 71.81 23.86 Children’s Place (PLCE) 9.3 5933 24.28 -0.80 37.20 20.38 Payless Shoes (PSS) 12.0 13984 22.06 0.36 30.97 11.35 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 16.1 10601 12.12 -0.19 35.22 20.35 Perry Ellis (PERY) 14.3 2037 27.71 -1.26 SOURCES: YAHOO FINANCE AS OF SEPT. 27, 43.83 34.70 Cintas (CTAS) 18.1 13678 37.10 -0.05 62.19 40.10 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 17.2 6755 52.48 -0.60 CIA WORLD FACTBOOK 49.72 20.77 Citi Trends (CTRN) 15.6 2084 21.76 -1.46 5.65 1.38 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 209 3.20 0.05 54.00 33.80 Coach (COH) 27.7 19378 47.27 -1.01 19.51 12.87 Playtex (PYX) 29.5 35490 18.28 0.05 31.25 10.71 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 19.3 18787 10.86 -0.94 102.58 64.12 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 19.8 12838 77.75 -0.70 71.91 59.35 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 22.7 18913 71.32 1.47 26.93 13.31 PriceSmart (PSMT) 43.3 536 23.60 -1.81 70.93 51.99 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 14.9 1798 55.31 -1.41 1.48 0.02 Quaker Fabric (QFAB) - 390 0.02 -0.01 WWD Index 32.19 19.60 Conns (CONN) 13.6 952 23.89 -2.11 16.08 10.90 Quiksilver (ZQK) 32.2 8435 14.30 -0.32 65.57 47.89 Costco (COST) 26.1 40121 61.37 0.65 13.14 6.30 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 3.6 171 9.65 0.54 11.64 7.75 Cost U Less (CULS) 17.0 51 11.56 0.07 39.55 28.51 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 9.9 1890 31.24 0.38 66.39 15.83 Crocs (CROX) 44.8 53593 67.25 10.39 93.49 61.99 Regency Centers (REG) 34.8 8526 76.75 3.39 12.30 4.37 Culp (CFI) - 153 10.38 -0.16 23.30 10.06 Retail Ventures (RVI) 13.3 3331 10.41 -0.71 3.94 1.05 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 104 1.16 0.04 1.75 1.01 Revlon (REV) - 10936 1.15 -0.08 Composite 29.97 24.06 Deb Shops (DEBS) 18.1 127 26.89 0.03 19.23 8.40 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 16.7 157 10.63 0.07 957.23 113.50 45.98 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 39.0 3102 109.80 1.35 35.17 25.03 Ross Stores (ROST) 13.9 10829 25.64 -0.90 12.00 4.20 Delia’s (DLIA) 42.4 645 4.70 0.15 23.25 14.38 Saks (SKS) 105.0 13014 17.15 0.57 20.50 14.91 Delta Apparel (DLA) 25.8 81 17.10 -0.35 195.18 123.39 Sears (SHLD) 13.9 20644 127.20 -4.12 10.58 5.50 Delta Galil (DELT) - 0 5.85 0.14 35.26 14.77 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 9.6 1379 15.78 -1.10 72.33 46.28 Developers Diversified (DDR) 28.4 8098 55.87 0.65 7.93 2.08 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) - 56 2.66 -0.19 40.56 19.50 Dillard’s (DDS) 9.1 18764 21.83 0.77 123.96 82.60 Simon Properties (SPG) 48.5 15612 100.00 0.13 24.93 15.46 Dress Barn (DBRN) 10.6 5848 17.01 -0.31 38.03 17.36 Skechers (SKX) 12.1 11363 22.10 -0.04 44.71 26.26 DSW (DSW) 18.5 3417 25.17 -2.94 5.90 3.31 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 0 3.65 0.00 42.06 33.67 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 30.4 29 36.84 -1.15 18.00 7.72 Stein Mart (SMRT) 10.6 3003 7.61 -0.79 -7.76 14.27 6.50 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 1906 8.60 -0.35 5.00 2.72 Stephan (TSC) - 7 3.80 0.02 27.11 15.98 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 19.8 2888 26.96 0.53 44.70 17.94 Steve Madden (SHOO) 9.4 4288 18.95 0.02 52.31 38.41 Estée Lauder (EL) 19.5 12929 42.46 -0.12 13.54 10.41 Superior Uniform (SGC) 45.4 12 12.23 -0.27 34.98 14.61 Everlast Worldwide (EVST) - 0 33.00 0.00 22.08 13.14 Syms (SYM) 46.8 514 15.01 -1.21 35.42 24.23 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.7 16815 26.56 -0.57 31.00 16.65 Talbots (TLB) - 6305 18.00 0.25 14.97 4.54 Finish Line (FINL) 18.0 14591 4.34 -0.95 2.15 0.65 Talon Intl. (TLN) - 172 0.75 0.05 26.16 23.03 Forest City (FCY) 30.5 36 24.35 0.21 13.70 9.73 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 37.1 129 10.75 0.00 38.82 20.59 Fossil (FOSL) 26.9 5251 37.36 -0.08 8.32 5.80 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 12.3 379 7.10 0.00 15.74 9.71 Freds (FRED) 16.1 4669 10.53 0.10 43.56 32.32 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 61.6 2353 40.59 0.40 Weekly % Changes 42.00 34.81 G&K (GKSR) 19.9 1109 40.20 0.28 70.75 54.60 Target (TGT) 17.8 85976 63.57 -2.08 (ending Sept. 28) 24.14 11.65 Gaiam (GAIA) 77.3 1847 24.03 1.31 2.20 0.96 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 671 1.24 -0.01 21.39 15.20 Gap (GPS) 19.5 71310 18.44 -0.11 63.87 43.93 Taubman (TCO) 75.3 5780 54.75 0.19 67.43 42.40 General Growth (GGP) 43.3 15182 53.62 1.64 12.13 5.95 Tefron (TFR) 9.9 87 6.20 -0.21 Gainers Change 54.15 34.03 Genesco (GCO) 20.3 3323 46.13 -1.47 56.79 32.82 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 26.0 13710 52.35 0.45 Bakers 20.54 26.74 10.90 G-III Apparel (GIII) 14.8 845 19.69 -0.61 33.45 18.06 Timberland (TBL) 14.1 7059 18.96 -1.58 39.23 23.11 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 19.9 7666 39.39 0.93 32.46 25.74 TJ Maxx (TJX) 18.9 46268 29.07 -1.02 LJ Intl. 18.89 29.69 19.39 Glimcher (GRT) - 1885 23.50 -0.20 23.88 14.65 True Religion (TRLG) 18.3 6181 17.60 0.40 15.37 4.19 Gottschalks (GOT) - 385 4.34 -0.31 47.00 27.23 Tween Brands (TWB) 17.2 5712 32.84 1.43 Crocs 18.27 54.10 23.81 Guess (GES) 27.7 6705 49.03 1.08 73.40 39.33 Under Armour (UA) 63.9 19174 59.82 -3.29 49.11 34.66 Gymboree (GYMB) 14.3 7242 35.24 -3.07 3.07 1.69 Unifi (UFI) - 1469 2.75 0.20 Alpha Pro Tech 15.58 20.25 11.76 Hampshire (HAMP) - 7 15.15 -0.58 48.00 31.00 Unifirst (UNF) 16.1 880 37.46 -3.47 Blue 11.25 33.73 21.70 Hanesbrands (HBI) - 5913 28.06 0.29 20.00 7.50 United Retail (URGI) 23.0 144 13.59 0.01 8.69 5.65 Hartmarx (HMX) 91.1 11826 4.90 -2.02 27.75 17.00 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 27.7 11188 21.80 -0.50 29.26 17.29 Helen of Troy (HELE) 11.2 1983 19.31 -1.30 96.20 72.95 VF Corp. (VFC) 16.0 4860 80.75 -3.18 Decliners Change 14.45 7.37 Hot Topic (HOTT) 24.9 6424 7.46 -0.65 51.00 22.54 Volcom (VLCM) 34.6 3370 42.52 1.26 4.45 0.64 House of Taylor (HOTJ) - 262 0.84 -0.07 52.15 42.09 Wal-Mart (WMT) 14.5 126553 43.65 -0.58 Quaker Fabric -33.33 40.99 25.08 IAC Interactive (IACI) 47.0 19948 29.67 1.63 41.78 18.86 Warnaco (WRNC) 17.4 4651 39.07 -0.28 24.48 14.49 Iconix (ICON) 27.8 6493 23.79 0.55 52.30 35.75 Weingarten (WRI) 25.0 6130 41.46 0.06 Jaclyn -31.41 2.45 0.38 Innovo (INNO) - 586 1.89 -0.14 34.31 21.49 Weyco (WEYS) 16.1 447 31.41 -2.30 Hartmarx -29.19 29.18 17.63 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 24.7 1162 23.67 1.67 3.08 1.01 Wilsons (WLSN) - 136 1.71 -0.07 57.17 28.43 J. Crew (JCG) 18.6 6863 41.50 -3.80 31.08 24.55 Wolverine (WWW) 17.5 2368 27.40 -0.01 Finish Line -17.96 87.18 61.54 J.C. Penney (JCP) 12.5 23714 63.37 -3.11 31.72 19.89 Zale (ZLC) 19.7 9351 23.14 -0.31 14.25 2.10 Jaclyn (JLN) 24.1 319 6.55 -3.00 50.37 26.05 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 54.9 4142 44.37 -2.65 Charlotte Russe -13.53 35.54 16.73 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 11285 21.13 0.43 20 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM

VERONIQUE’S TALE: Veronique Branquinho is normally not one to Event Aids Boys and Girls Club stroll down memory lane, but as she celebrates her label’s MEMO PAD 10th anniversary and readies a retrospective at the Antwerp, By Caroline Tell Belgium, fashion museum MoMu for March, the Belgian designer has been obliged to reﬂ ect on the past. Branquinho launched her label in 1997 and quickly ew York’s Metropolitan Club played host to philanthropists, and became known for an elegantly somber take on femininity. That’s the mood she hopes to infuse in Belgium’s Nhandbag lovers, last Wednesday at the second annual Purses A Magazine, which she guest edited for the October issue, joining designer-cum-editor predecessors Martin and Pursenalities Luncheon benefiting the Madison Square Boys Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Haider Ackermann, Undercover designer Jun Takahashi and Martine Sitbon. and Girls Club. “I wanted to do something very personal Honorees included Vera Wang, Leiber president and creative di- and very warm; something that is essential rector Frank Zambrelli and Lilly Pulitzer designer Janie Schoenborn, in my life and in my work,” she said of who were recognized for her stint with the magazine, which will be their charitable efforts distributed at her runway show Tuesday. and involvement in the or- For the issue, Branquinho adopted a ganization. nocturnal theme, with one shoot by Alex “I love to help kids and Salinas featuring models in a somber be able to give back,” said midnight forest and another by Serge Wang. “It’s a wonderful, Lebon with models posing in owl masks. To creative way to help and balance those moody shots, Branquinho it’s fun. It’s lunch.” added pictures taken in the house where Master of ceremo- she was raised. “It’s a fairy tale about the nies Eric Javits was also “As black as midnight place where I grew up and about my family happy to donate his time on a moonless night,” and friends,” said Branquinho, adding she in addition to some jokes from A Magazine.

PHOTO BY ALEX SALINAS PHOTO BY was inspired by the surrealistic images of at the podium. ﬁ lm directors Tim Burton and David Lynch. “It’s great to give these

For her retrospective at MoMu, Branquinho said she wanted give visitors a “clear” image of her work. kids support and a place JOE SCHILDHORN/PMC PHOTO BY “I didn’t want the only focus to be on fashion,” said Branquinho, noting she planned to include paintings to go and fi nd enjoyment,” Janie Schoenborn, Vera Wang and Frank Zambrelli. and music in the show. “Whereas the magazine focused on small things that are essential to my life, the Javits said. “It’s a wonder- exhibition will offer a clearer picture.” — Emilie Marsh ful organization that nurtures kids into becoming fi ne citizens.” Guests were encouraged to participate in the event’s silent auc- CHEAPER THAN A DECORATOR: For around four bucks, a person can buy a copy of a home magazine to pick tion, where bags by Gucci, Hermès and Bottega Veneta — to name a up a few decorating tips for their apartment. Then again, for $1.6 million to $1.75 million, readers of few — were available for bidding. Hearst Magazines’ Country Living, House Beautiful, O at Home or Veranda can skip a few steps ahead After a video featuring the children from the Madison Square and buy an apartment inspired by their favorite magazine. Hearst Home Group, which focuses on Boys and Girls Club, each honoree received a framed piece of art increasing home advertising at select Hearst titles, has tapped designers, including Celerie Kemble for made by one of the children. Zambrelli received a glittered pic- House Beautiful and Annie Selke for Country Living, to design apartments that refl ect the aesthetic of each ture of a Hello Kitty purse, reminiscent of the famed Leiber min- magazine at the new building 10 West End Avenue in New York. The new apartments will be featured in audière. the November issues, except for O at Home, where it appears in the fall issue out now. The only caveat is Zambrelli, a new father, debated whether the piece would go in that the O at Home apartment will not be available for purchase with the editor-selected items. Instead, his offi ce or in 16-month-old baby Gia’s room. these furnishings will be sold in an online auction, with proceeds benefi tting Women In Need. “I’d love to get even more involved than I already am,” Zambrelli The living-the-magazine project is in partnership with Apollo Real Estate Advisors, Corcoran said. “Being a new father has totally changed my perspective. Now Sunshine Marketing Group and Cambridge Development & Construction and has generated $2 million in this cause hits much closer to home.” incremental advertising, and Hearst has plans to do a similar project next year, said Jeanne Noonan Eckholdt, Hearst Home Group director. And given the Manhattan property market, no doubt the apartments will cost even more then. — Amy Wicks

MTV CRIB: There was one VIP who was able to hold court at the $8.5 million Esquire North triplex Activewear Sales Gain in ’06 apartment before it opened its doors Thursday. Jay-Z took over the space on Sept. 23 to fi lm the video for ctive apparel sales are growing as activewear becomes more ac- his new song, “American Gangster.” The rapper shot scenes in the light-drenched Versace living room, on A cepted as fashion, according to The NPD Group’s second survey the apartment’s three terraces overlooking Central Park and on the custom glass spiral staircase that leads of the global sports market. from the main fl oor up to the second fl oor. His girlfriend Beyoncé wasn’t part of the video, but did spend World consumption of sporting goods increased 4 percent to $256 bil- quality time napping in the apartment’s media room, outfi tted by Hugo Boss. Does that add to the asking lion, with apparel sales driving growth in the market. Apparel accounts price? — Stephanie D. Smith for almost half of sector revenues at $113 billion, a 6 percent increase compared with 2005. “Apparel will continue to show the biggest growth rates in the sports market…primarily due to changing lifestyles worldwide,” NPD analyst Renaud Vaschalde said in a statement. “The trend Greg Norman Adds to Women’s Line shows more people are willing to wear sports or sports-style clothing. They have become more accepting of casual dressing not just s the Greg Norman rector of design. “If Microsoft because it’s fashionable, but because it is also practical.” ACollection prepares its big- or Coca-Cola want to run a NPD divides the global sports market into four segments: apparel, gest women’s collection yet for tournament and are ordering a footwear, equipment and bicycles. Global athletic footwear sales in- spring, the golf apparel line is men’s basic polo for the men, creased 3 percent, equipment sales rose 4 percent and bicycle sales adding a new women’s essen- we need to have an equiva- gained 1 percent. tials collection — the orders lent product for women, even Global sports sales are concentrated in a small group of coun- for which are already up to the if there are a much smaller tries, with the top nine nations for sporting goods sales accounting fashion-collection level, accord- number playing. Plus, while for two-thirds of global sports market sales, but less than one-third ing to the company. the rest of the women’s collec- of the population. For example, the U.S. sports market led apparel The year-round, in-stock as- tion is seasonal, this is always sales with 8 percent growth, compared with increases of 5 percent sortment includes nine styles available.” in Asia and 3 percent in Europe. On the other hand, China is grow- of knit polos and outerwear, Women’s has grown to 15 per- ing at 13 percent, but still accounts for only $6.7 billion in sales, av- in an assortment of colors to cent of Greg Norman’s $100 mil- eraging just $5 per capita spending, compared with $338 per capita make 60 stockkeeping units. lion wholesale business. As the in the U.S. The essentials, which whole- essentials collection makes its China is one of the two sectors in which Vaschalde sees growth sale from $21 to $44, coordi- fi rst delivery on Dec. 1 to most opportunities in the activewear market. The other is outdoor, as nate with the men’s tourna- of the 1,200 doors that carry the “we are seeing an increasing awareness of the environment that, ment styles while linking back Greg Norman women’s line, the coupled with people’s continuing love affair with nature, could pose to the women’s collection’s company, bought by MacGregor signifi cant opportunities for growth,” he noted. seasonal color palette. Golf last year, hopes to see its — W.B. “The essentials round our double-digit annual growth con- women’s collection off,” said tinue. Jeremy Brandrick, senior di- — Whitney Beckett Polos from the essentials collection. Rafaella Earnings Dive for Qtr., Year afaella Apparel Group Inc. said its net earnings fell by half for Ferragamo Taps Greco for New Post Rboth the fourth quarter and fiscal year. The women’s sportswear fi rm, which was bought by Cerberus MILAN — The house of stints at Montedison SpA and 9 and Canoga Park, Calif. on Capital Management two years ago through issuing $172 million in Ferragamo has tapped Ernesto Hewlett-Packard. Nov. 16. Other openings in the public debt, reported its fourth quarter and annual results Friday. As Greco as chief fi nancial offi cer, In light of Ferragamo’s ini- U.S. this year were in Riverside, of June 30, the fi rm has more than $160 million in total liabilities. a new post for the Florentine tial public offering planned for N.J.; Boston; Philadelphia, and For the three months ended June 30, net earnings dropped to luxury goods house. next year, ceo Michele Norsa de- Scottsdale, Ariz. $268,000 from $543,000 for the same period last year. Sales increased Greco, 57, will oversee the scribed Greco as the perfect fi t. The 3,100-square-foot-bou- 11 percent to $46.1 million from $41.6 million. fi rm’s fi nancial and administra- “Thanks to his background, fi - tique in Canoga Park, the lat- For the year, net earnings sank to $6.3 million from $12.6 million. tive operations. Prior to joining nancial knowledge and familiar- est to be announced, will be in Sales declined 14 percent to $191.3 million from $222.2 million. Ferragamo, Greco was chief ity with the markets, he is key to the Westfi eld Topanga shopping Operating earnings also fell sharply for both the quarter and the executive officer of Natuzzi, our growth plans,” said Norsa. center and will feature an as- year. In a fi ling with the Securities and Exchange Commission, the a publically held sofa manu- Even before the IPO, sortment of women’s and men’s company cited factors ranging from consumers rejecting the prod- facturer, and was Bulgari’s cfo Ferragamo is actively expanding ready-to-wear, shoes, leather uct to increased competition and consolidation. A spokesman de- for 16 years before that. Other and has two openings slated for and silk accessories, sunglasses, clined further comment. A conference call will be held Tuesday. work experience includes next month: Troy, Mich., on Nov. handbags and fragrances. — W.B. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 21 WWD.COM Macy’s Passport Illuminates L.A. U.S. Socks Producers Elizabeth By Marcy Medina Seek Honduran Relief Taylor SANTA MONICA, Calif. — Macy’s Passport celebrated its 25th anniversary here with star power to spare, namely Dame By Evan Clark Elizabeth Taylor. The gala show and auction Thursday night featured music, WASHINGTON — U.S. socks producers are making dance and plenty of fashion, The event, along with another their case for safeguards against Honduran imports. gala in San Francisco on Sept. 20, raised a total of $2 million Domestic producers say they have been pushed to for AIDS/HIV services, prevention and research. Since its in- the breaking point because of the surge in socks from ception, Macy’s Passport has raised $25 million. Mexico that occurred when the North American Free To kick things off in the Barker Hangar at Santa Monica Trade Agreement went into effect; more imports Airport, Hollywood icon Taylor received the fi rst Macy’s from Asia, and now, more from Honduras under the Passport Humanitarian Award from Macy’s West chairman Central American Free Trade Agreement. and chief executive offi cer Robert Mettler. Wearing a silver The point man on the issue is Matthew Priest, lamé Naeem Khan dress and more than 50 carats of House of chairman of the interagency Committee for the Taylor diamonds, the 75-year-old Oscar winner, who has used Implementation of Textile Agreements, which in a wheelchair in recent years, walked to a seat on the stage August said it was considering temporary tariffs on where she addressed the 2,000 guests. socks made in Honduras under a provision of CAFTA “I’m so grateful for this award that I’m out of breath,” she that has not yet been used. said, then paused, adding, “but the Teleprompter’s not on, During the fi rst half of this year, 10.2 percent, or and for this I am not grateful.” 12.3 million dozen pairs, of cotton, wool and man- Eventually, Taylor got back on track, telling the audience, made fi ber socks shipped to the U.S. came from “You don’t need an award to be or not to be an activist and Honduras, up from a 6.7 percent share of the import humanitarian. I was at the fi rst Passport, I was here last year market a year earlier, at least partly because of duty and I will continue to be here and join this fi ght until we de- free treatment under CAFTA. feat the enemy of HIV and AIDS. The most powerful weapon That 65.2 percent increase in Honduran sock im- of all is hope.” ports fi red up U.S. producers such as Ned Covington, Taylor stressed the importance of educating the younger gen- president of 87-year-old Harriss & Covington Hosiery eration about the disease. “Let them know this can and does Mills Inc. in High Point, N.C., who was among those happen to all people,’’ she said. “Silence breeds shame.” who responded to CITA’s request for public comment Among the young stars in attendance was a Calvin on safeguard tariffs. Klein-clad Emmy Rossum, who is an ambassador for Covington, the fourth generation of his family to the Youth AIDS foundation. work at the mill, said it employs more than 245 peo- “It’s important for a younger generation to be in- ple with an annual payroll of almost $7 million and volved,’’ she said. “That’s where AIDS is striking and provides health and life insurance as well as retire- that’s scary that it’s affecting girls my age. It could be me, ment benefi ts, while complying with laws governing so I think that’s why it’s so important to get involved.” social compliance and environmental protection. Robert MAC Cosmetics chief John Demsey pre- “We fi nd our company in greater jeopardy than ever Mettler and sented a $30,000 check to the Empower before,” Covington said in his comments to Priest. “Not Mark Ecko African Children fund to benefi t AIDS or- because we haven’t reinvested in our facilities and phans in Uganda. “Macy’s is a very impor- equipment, not because we can’t fi nd qualifi ed employ- tant part of our business, and Bob [Mettler] has ees, not because we can’t manage our business. The A Tracy really taken Passport to another level,’’ Demsey cause of our diminished outlook is directly attribut- Reese said. “In the nine years since MAC has been a part able to the trade policies of our own government.” look of Passport, we’ve donated almost $1 million to its After weathering competition with Mexico and from the organizations.” then Asian countries, Covington said CAFTA opened runway. After the accolades, Mettler declared, “Let’s get up “another entire region to supply cheap imports this party started,” and models paraded down the without having to comply with the laws and regula- runway for nine segments, including collections tions and unnecessary paperwork required by our from Mark Ecko, Calvin Klein, Via Spiga, Levi’s and own government.” designs by students of San Francisco’s Academy U.S. socks producers have in general outlasted of Art. Previous Passport designers such as Tracy their apparel counterparts and still have a signifi - Reese, Anna Sui, Michael Kors, Elie Tahari and cant presence, making up 33.2 percent of the total Tommy Hilfi ger also designed one-of-a-kind silver U.S. socks market last year, though that was down dresses to commemorate the silver anniversary. from 37.9 percent in 2005. For the evening’s fi nale, MAC Viva Glam spokes- Opponents of new restrictions argued that clamp- model Dita Von Teese performed her signature ing down on Honduran imports would help Asian Champagne glass routine with a new costume. suppliers and hurt U.S. textile concerns, which “It has about 300,000 Swarovski crystals and count Central America as their largest market. weighs about 70 pounds, which obviously gets “The CAFTA treaty has been successful in en- lighter as the show goes on as I shed pieces,” she couraging U.S. companies to invest in Honduras and said. “People love the Champagne glass so it’s im- these companies are using yarn manufactured in portant for me to do what I can do to breathe life the U.S.,” wrote Dalton McMichael Jr., president of into these numbers.” McMichael Mills Inc. in Madison, N.C. “If the United Mettler said his secret to reinventing Passport States imposes duties on socks manufactured in after 25 years was passion. “We have people who Honduras, companies there will likely purchase love what they do and know that it is part enter- their yarn from countries in the Far East that subsi- Emmy Rossum tainment, but that it’s all for an important cause. dize their textile industry.”

TAYLOR, ROSSUM BY MICHAEL CAULFIELD/WIREIMAGE; METTLER BY REBECCA SAPP/WIREIMAGE; TRACY REESE RUNWAY BY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE BY REESE RUNWAY REBECCA SAPP/WIREIMAGE; TRACY METTLER MICHAEL CAULFIELD/WIREIMAGE; BY ROSSUM BY TAYLOR, They’re so into it, and that drives them.” Zilli Makes North American Debut in Montreal By Brian Dunn sale accounts across the U.S. The Montreal store is 2,700 square feet over two MONTREAL — French luxury brand Zilli has chosen fl oors and has the same interior design as other Zilli to open its first North American store here to take ad- units, with an accent on leather, brass and mahogany vantage of the common use of the French language, the in ivory, gold and black. Zilli plans to open stores in city’s European tastes and the company’s long associa- Toronto and Los Angeles next year. The company tion with local supplier Zuki Furs. wouldn’t comment beyond next year, although more Its headquarters in Lyon, France, is also the twin duty free shops are a possibility. city of Montreal. Zilli was founded in 1970 by a tailor of the same The primarily men’s wear company used the down- name who ran a small leather and fur workshop in Lyon town store’s opening late last month for the North that was transformed by current owner Alain Schimel American launch of its fi rst women’s outerwear collec- into a new concept: luxury leather sportswear for men, tion of 200 pieces, called Zilli Femme. The line includes which was expanded into a full collection in 1996. Most some fur garments from Zuki, which has been supplying goods are produced in either Lyon or Italy. Zilli’s store in St. Petersburg, Russia. fur to Zilli for years for men’s coats. Schimel opened his fi rst Zilli boutique in London detail,” according to communications director Benoît The company has always carried a limited assort- in 1983, followed by Paris in 1990, Moscow in 1993 and de Valicourt. ment of women’s accessories and handbags, but this other cities throughout the world. The privately held “We also use the best fabrics in the world,” de is the fi rst season it will introduce outerwear. Zilli company’s products are now sold in about 150 stores Valicourt said. “For example, we are the largest user products are already available in more than 30 coun- worldwide, including 25 company-owned stores. Sales in of black velvet chinchilla in the world for our coats, ac- tries, including a duty free shop at New York’s John F. 2006 were $50 million, up 43 percent from 2005. counting for about 70 percent of all black velvet chin- Kennedy International Airport and at a dozen whole- What sets Zilli apart is its “exceptional attention to chilla produced.” 22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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vendors Two out of three readers discovered new vendors in WWD.

Call 212.630.4648 or email [email protected] to advertise. Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 23 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

OF THE TOP JOB WEEK ROXY Sales Representative APPLY NOW ON FASHIONCAREERS.COM New York City

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SENIOR DESIGNER: SALES EXECUTIVE Accessory Co. is seekingexperi- WOMEN’S CONTEMPORARY enced sales exec to open, build and grow new accounts.Ideal can- Well-known contemporary Creative Director is looking for a didates mustbe highly motivated, Sr. Designer to join the growing team in order to design and committed, very organized, with manage under vision of Creative Director. strongsolid communication and LADIES FOOTWEAR BUYER analytical skills . Strongcomputer AMAZING OPPORTUNITY FOR DESIGN VISIBILITY! skill isamust. With established Candidate must possess the following to succeed in this role: Forman Mills “the” unique, off-price family apparel chain is contactsand strongconnections *Ability to put together a collection looking for a qualified LADIES FOOTWEAR Buyer for our with major dept stores & specialty *Experience in various facets of design from inception to product brand new footwear department. We have 25 Superstores in stores. Salary iscommensurate Showrooms & Lofts 6 States and aggressive growth plans. The position is based with experience. Send resume to: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS *5+ years at a branded company [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail *Women’s contemporary experience at the corporate headquarters in Pennsauken, N.J. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 *Wovens experience and some knowledge of knits Candidates must have a high energy level, solid *Technical skills: tech packs/spec packs off-price experience in ladies brands, preferably in a multi *Team player with a positive attitude store environment, strong negotiation skills, updated brand Courage Clothing Co. *Strong organizational skills name contacts, and excellent PC skills. *Ability to manage a team effectively SALES EXECUTIVE We offer exciting career opportunities, excellent salary and • 8th Ave • 24/7 Attendant • 5500 sq ft • *Bachelors degree in related field Missy, Junior,and Girls’ Denim comprehensive benefits. Forward resumes to: Director of Co. seeksaSales Executive SHOWROOM/OFFICE SPACE Please submit to: [email protected] Human Resources, Forman Mills, 1070 Thomas Busch AVAILABLE FOR SUBLEASE ATTENTION HR DIRECTOR Memorial Hwy. Pennsauken, NJ 08110. Email: with experience in Private Label BEAUTIFUL OPEN LOFT SPACE. &Branded Bottoms.Please RENOVATED WITH GREAT VIEWS, [email protected] Fax: 877-349-7015. EOE E-mail resumes to VJ at: LIGHT, WINDOWS AND TERRACE. OFFICE MANAGER OWNER • [email protected] ADRIANNA PAPELL GRAPHIC ARTIST $70K SHIPPING/TRAFFIC [email protected] EUGENIA KIM Licensed Characters. Apparel/Daywear. CAD Artist/Graphic Must possess an excellent sense of MANAGER Responsibilities: A/R, A/P, invoic- color and design. Eric Javits Inc, accessory Co. w/ ware- Showroom Space - W. 39th Textile Designer Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or Showroom space available to share house in LIC, seeks person to manage Min 5 yrs exp. Must be team ing, payroll, manage staff of 10, e-mail: [email protected] shipping, receiving, routing, compli- INDEPENDENT SALES REP in desirable, newly renovated, KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS UNO Clothing, Inc. prime location on West 39th Street. player and creative w/strong bookkeeping using QuickBooks. ance, UPS. EDI, Invoicing. Min 5 yrs Ideal for an individual with 1 sense of color. Ability to CAD, Musthave 2years office manage- exp req in preparing large shipments L.A. Vernon based manufacture Jr., or 2 contemporary collections. Import Costing to Dept stores & all the above. Must Missy, Plus, Novelty Sportswear. Need paint by hand, do repeats, be detailed oriented, have clear oral For more information call: 212-868-2849 ment exp,excellent Quick Books, Leading Ladies’ Apparel Co.. seeks person sales rep to expand line on East Coast. and written English skills. Charming Shoppe, JC Penney, Target, embroidery layouts and com- Excel, MAC OSX. Please email for Import Costing area. Must have knowl- municate overseas req’d. edge of all facets of LDP packages with a Email resume w/ salary requirements: etc. Owned textile printing company. cover letter, resume, & $ reqs to: minimum of 5 years experience. E-mail [email protected] Email: [email protected] Photoshop/Illustrator a must. resumes to: [email protected] [email protected] SPEC TECH...... TO $45K Measure & Spec Wal-Mart A Plus Fabric Sourcing Manager IMPORT MANAGER TO $65K Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Moderate/ Better womens Must open & amend L/Cs [email protected] sportswear and dresses. Must FASHION MARKETING [email protected] www.srisearch.com SALES SUPPORT LESTER’S - Metro areas premier have strong fashion sense, TECH DESIGNER...... TO $75K Major Apparel co. seeks individual with negotiation skills, knowledge fashion emporium for theentire ITALIAN BI-LINGUAL NJ Loc 1st patterns, Stretch Fabrics 3 years experience. Responsibilities DENIMS TO SELL of weaving, printing & Asian family seeksap/t Dir. of Marketing. FABRIC MANAGER $125-150K Velisa Davis SRI Search 212-465-8300 include following up on orders with Candidate musthave min 2 yrs [email protected] Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. fabric market (China). Existing [email protected] 212-947-3400 www.srisearch.com buyers and interacting with production, Camo Available. Cheap Prices. mill relationships req’d. Trim mktgexp & strong fashion bkgd. design & sales areas. Must posess excel- 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL sourcing exp a plus. Travel. Develop & execute mktg strategies, LC/Import Coordinator Technical Designer lent communication, organizational & computer skill. Knowledge of AS400 a liaison to our ad agency. Work Major Apparel co. seeks individual with Fashion forward co. seeks tech designer PATTERN/SAMPLES PLEASE EMAIL RESUME TO: from home or our offices, flexible knowledge of entire process of LC to create tech pack, spec garment, de- plus. Please fax resumes to 212-730-9705 and Production Import. Must be detail tail production package, write fit com- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast [email protected] hours, generous discount. ments. Must have exp w/ Excel, Illus- work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 oriented and possess excellent computer E-mail: [email protected] skills. Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 trator & Photoshop. Excellent benefits. Patterns/Samples/Production BOOKKEEPER E-mail resume to: [email protected] Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Small friendly kids wear company re- DESIGNER PATTERNMAKER TECHNICAL DESIGNERS $HI Gowns custom made & wholesale. quires full charge bookkeeper. Must Major apparel company seeks Designer For children’s dress co. computer 1) Missy-Jrs.-Kids 2) C/S Knits or Wovens Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 know QB. Familiar with factoring. Part with minimum 3 years experience for patternmaker preferred, but will train 3) Sweaters 4) All Level Positions SALES time. Resume to: [email protected] Girls 7-16 knit/woven tops and sweaters. capable patternmaker. Well established, Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 Women’s contemporary label based in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Must have knowledge of garment and financially sound co. Good benefits. NYC seeks Sales Rep w/minimum of 3 fabric construction. Must have excellent Please email resume to: Technical Design to $50K Strong on years experience, Est’d. Contacts w/Dept. PRODUCTIONS Design computer skills with Illustrator required. [email protected] Illustrator req’d. Exp in creating tech pkgs & Chain Stores and a proven record of All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Photoshop knowledge a plus. or fax resume to: 212-643-9130 & working tech packs through to sending success. E-mail: [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Assistant Designer Please fax resume to 212-730-9705 to Far East. Chinese or Korean bi-ling helpful not nec. [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Sweater / Knitwear Patternmaker Sweater / knitwear co. seeks motivated NJ based swimwear co. seeks a pattern Textile Cad Artist PRODUCTIONS person who is hungry to learn to join DESIGNER TO $125K maker. Must have Gerber exp. Great Expert in Photoshop 2 + years Full service shop to the trade. our team. A fabulous growth Missy, Updated Knits benefits Please email your resume to: exp, textile design skills a must. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. opportunity for the right person. Must [email protected] [email protected] Sal + ben. Fax resume 212-947-4501 SLS- ACCESSORIES TO 100K be organized, detail oriented and able Email: [email protected] Major Co’s seek experienced salespeople PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD to go with the flow. Proficiency of Patternmaker to $90K. Current exp in for gift sets, luggage, other products. Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop a Gerber Accumark required. Queens High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Design womens sportswear company. Email: WAREHOUSE MGR $$$$ A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 MUST. E-mail resume to: Sweater Designer [email protected] Lg Womens Import Co. in CT seeks an 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 [email protected] or Fax to: Individual w/ experience in EDI & Traffic 718-418-9354 Attn: Sherry Private Label Sportswear Importer Compliance for dept/specialty stores. Mens / Womens seeks professionals to expand our co. : Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or DESIGNER $100-140K Current exp in Seeking 2 experienced, motivated, or- e-mail: [email protected] jr. denim. Must hang w/ Vigos, Angel, ganized individuals who are able to •Technical Designer KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Glo, Plastic, Truck Jeans, Piper, Revolt, work independently and join our team. Sister Moon, Miss Me, Hydraulic, Doll Responsibilities include designing •Assistant Tech Designer House, Nori, Fusion, Hint, etc. Midtown specific licensed labels and private la- branded co. Email: [email protected] bel product. Sweater experience a MUST. Able to design from initial con- •Designer Designer $80-90K Strong current exp cept, color, yarn through all aspects up We welcome independent, organized, Accountant/CFO from $110-$140K in mens sportswear. Will assist head to sales sample. Must be detail orient- self-motivated & highly responsible Strong exp in apparel co req’d. 34th St. designer w/ interpreting sportswear ed and able to multi-task. Knowledge candidates who are good team players STORE MANAGER Current relationships w/ banks or factors from mens outerwear inspirations. of cut and sew knits, Adobe Illustrator with strong communications skills. req’d. Email: [email protected] and Photoshop a plus. BETHSDA, MD Mens outdoor fashion vision required. Email resumes and salary history to [email protected] E-mail resume to: Upscale ladies boutique seeks a Store ACCOUNTANT to $75K. Current exp in [email protected] or Fax to: [email protected] Manager. Must be detailed oriented, apparel co. req’d. Monthly statements, Designer Associate to $60K. Min 2 yrs exp 718-418-9354 Attn: Sherry with position title in subject. exp’d in Retail Management, and fash- collections, financial statements, A/P, in intimate apparel. Bergen/Hudson Account Executive ion driven. This individual will be re- A/R, journal entries, etc. Midtown co. County, NJ area. Strong career oppty. Midtown Sweater Mfr. seeks an exp’d., sponsible for staff and monthly reports. Email: [email protected] Product Development Email: [email protected] Major apparel co. seeks individual motivated, aggressive Sales Executive Email resume to: EDI Coord $60-65K. Strong current exp product development position. Re- with strong, well established contacts [email protected] Admin Since 1967 Designer Head $110-140K. Current exp or call: 410.825.3191 in girls tween market. Must hang w/ in EDI Administration. Edison, NJ sponsibilities include reviewing design with major Dept. & Chain Stores. Salary W-I-N-S-T-O-N Adjmi, Mamiye, Regatta, etc. Exp’d location. Growth opportunity. worksheets & coordinating information + commission w/benefits or freelance. dealing w/ Wal-Mart or Target or Kohl’s Email: [email protected] between design department & production Please Fax or E-mail resumes to: APPAREL STAFFING 212-921-5672 / [email protected] DESIGN * SALES * MERCH etc. Midtown. [email protected] department. Focus on sampling, fabric ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION and accessories. Must have good (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 organization, communication, and Independent Sales Rep Fabric / Trim Coordinator computer skills. Garment construction **NATIONAL TERRITORY ** ECI New York knowledge, fabric development, and With great contacts for high-end women’s ASSISTANT DESIGNER Better womenswear manufacturer Wal-mart experience a plus. Must be boutiques seeks individual with 3-5 years exp. able to travel overseas. ** GREAT COMMISSION** Large co. seeks an Assistant Designer Fax resumes to 212-730-9705 Please call: 626-825-8110 for fast paced, high energy private Will be involved in all aspects of fabric /trim sourcing and development. Must label Womenswear division. Candidate SALES e-mail: [email protected] must have excellent flat sketching have strong understanding of woven Production Design Assistant and knit market. Responsibilities VP-Sls/Home deco exp/Biling Frnch $140k skills and be proficient in Photoshop Major apparel co. seeks experienced Sales Manager /Wholesale jewelry $120k /Illustrator. Excellent benefits. DESIGNER include communicating with overseas individual to create production/tech factories on daily basis. Need to be Visual Merch/ Prod Mgr/Jewelry $100k Defi ning style. Fax resume to: 212-556-5429 Leading Accessory Company looking packs. Other responsibilities include Asst Mgr & Sales Assoc $35-50k+ for talented Designer to join our charac- extremely organized with good com- helping prepare worksheets and art ter license division. Position responsible puter, verbal and written skills. work pages. Must have knowledge of Delivering results. for conception, sketching and executing Fax or Email resume to: Illustrator and Photoshop. SALES EXECUTIVE ASSOCIATE DESIGNER orignial designs for backpacks, bags, 212-382-0237/[email protected] Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 In Vogue Studios, an excellent full service Large company seeks an experienced totes, etc for toddler, thru adult range. CAD+Hand Studio is expanding again. Associate Designer for fast paced, high Must know Photoshop & Illustrator. Replenishment Analyst $120-140K Cur- Seeks a self-starting individual w/ strong energy private label Womenswear divi- Min 5 years experience required. Graphic Artist $45-55K. Min 1 yr exp in rent exp as planner in retail or whole- relationships + experience in textile Call 800-423-3314 or e-mail sion. Candidate must be creative, Illustrator, Photoshop. Able to sale ok. SKU intensive product lines service work. We offer opportunity fpclassifi [email protected] organized, and able to multi-task. PLEASE FAX OR EMAIL RESUME layout planograms. Sketch on CAD. background. Forecasting, ratios, advise for growth w/ competitive Sal. & Ben. Photoshop /Illustrator a must. Excellent WITH SALARY HISTORY TO: Bergen/ Hudson County, NJ area. buy adjustments quarterly. Excel. Major Fax resume to: 212-947-4501 or E-mail to advertise. benefits. Fax resume to: 212-556-5429 212.842.3217 or [email protected] Email: [email protected] designer brand. [email protected] [email protected] 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2007 WWD.COM Annie’s Song In order to remain relevant in today’s music world, many artists are forced to put out a new album almost every year and tour constantly. But most artists aren’t Annie Lennox. On Tuesday, she’ll release “Songs of Mass Destruction,” only her fourth record in 15 years, following it up in November with a brief six-week solo tour of the U.S., also only her fourth in the last decade and a half. Despite having such infrequent bursts of publicity, Lennox is still one powerful dame. When the eternally pixie-coiffed singer calls, you answer — even if you’re Madonna. And that’s precisely what happened when Lennox asked 23 of the world’s most recognizable female singers, including Fergie, Shakira, Joss Stone, Celine Dion, Gladys Knight, k.d. lang and her Madge-sty herself, to be the choir on the track “Sing.” But this wasn’t just an estrogen-fest of divas designed to fuel sales and provide fodder for a TV special. Lennox had an ulterior motive: The song is a call to arms in support of HIV/AIDS awareness in Africa, and the proceeds will be donated to the cause. “Isn’t it a powerful statement when you can collect all these names and then the media is interested?” asks Lennox. “Through all those performers I can get peoples’ attention and say, look, this is what the issue is: AIDS.” Egos aside, the women were happy to be, in essence, her backup singers. Only Madonna got her own verse. “It just thrilled me to bits because Madonna is a mighty powerful lady,” says Lennox. “To have her sing is phenomenal for me. That is a huge endorsement.” Annie Lennox Showcasing her distinct deep-soul voice and some beautifully heartbreaking WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY WEI BY MARK LANGTHORNE; MIKE OWEN AND LENNOX PHOTO BY tunes, “Songs of Mass Destruction” is a strong personal social statement for the ex- Eurythmic, starting with her choice of title, a play on what she calls “a terrifi c lie, media, especially when it comes to fellow U.K. songstress Amy Winehouse. a tremendous excuse.” That Lennox is using this as a platform to eloquently vent “I’m concerned for Amy because she’s a hugely gifted artist. Like everyone, I’d her artistic and moral spleen over the state of the world is clear. She’s done with like to see her get sorted. What I’m criticizing is the fascination that the media frivolous topics. has in tailgating these people and making some kind of huge mythology out of “I feel myself despairing for this destructive potentiality being played out by them,” she says. “It’s not helpful to those individuals to be celebrated for their human beings across the planet. I don’t think war has ever been a solution to any misdoings and weaknesses. They’re vulnerable. It’s like [the media] is chasing of our problems. I’m just amazed at how much politicians get away with murder. ambulances. It’s sick.” America is now trillions of dollars in debt because of the war effort. At the very But the Lennox forecast isn’t all doom and gloom. At the end of the day, she beginning of it, I thought, ‘Uh-oh, here goes their second Vietnam.’” Her goal is to still has faith people will do the right thing. “You only have to look at history inspire people to do something and help make the world a better place for her two to see how things can change. I think humans have so much creative potential. teenage daughters. There’s a tremendous amount of goodness out there,” she says. “I’m not a When Lennox gets on a roll, so passionate is her stance that it’s hard to get a pessimist completely.” word in edgewise. She also has plenty to say on the state of the celeb-obsessed — Nandini D’Souza

Sexual positions worthy of the “Kama Sutra,” lingering shots of RED sweat-covered anatomy: It was THE DANCER’S SECRET CARPET just a normal downtown screening n 1997, Julie Kavanagh was far from excited about the prospect of writing a FLASH when Focus Features and James Ibiography of Rudolf Nureyev. A former ballet dancer and author of an acclaimed Schamus invited guests to a spe- biography of British choreographer Frederick Ashton, she wasn’t relishing the cial viewing Thursday evening of idea of spending another decade chained to her computer. The book wasn’t even Ang Lee’s much-buzzed-about “Lust, Caution.” The her idea: She’d been headhunted after a group of Nureyev’s closest friends began fi lm, which stars newcomer Ta n g We i as a Chinese looking for an appropriate biographer. Besides, there were already more than 30 resistance member in Forties Shanghai who falls books out there on the dancer, who died in 1993, so what new information could for her government assassination she possibly unearth? target (played by Tony Leung), Ten years and more than 700 pages later, Kavanagh has produced the fi rst has drawn much notice for its authorized biography of the greatest male dancer of the 20th century — in her words, NC-17 rating, thanks to its a man who could sit virtually motionless on a stage and still make the audience’s highly erotic scenes. hair stand on end. “He was a theater animal. He could eclipse everyone else on stage At the after party at the with his unbelievable charisma,” says Bowery Hotel — which drew Kavanagh, whose book, “Nureyev: The Julie guests such as Kristin Davis, Life” (Pantheon Books), comes out Tuesday. Kavanagh Thakoon Panichgul, Vivienne But it wasn’t Nureyev’s legendary TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY Ta m and Kiera Chaplin — Wei charisma that fi nally convinced her to quietly held court, looking write about him. It was a story she uncovered after following up on elegant and demure in a a comment made during an early interview with a confi dante of the diaphanous nude Jean dancer’s, Chinko Rafi que, a foreign student who studied at the Kirov Yu dress, silver Prada Ballet’s Vaganova School in St. Petersburg at the same time Nureyev sandals and an eye- was with the famous ballet company. catching Lulu Frost cuff. “I hit on this Cold War love story — and I got excited — and suddenly Draped in a thick shawl I knew there was a book,” says the petite Kavanagh. to fend off the evening After that fateful interview with Rafi que, Kavanagh did some chill, the baby-faced digging and found that before Nureyev defected to the West, he had star admitted that in a secret lover named Teja Kremke, a handsome, precocious 17-year- real life, she is much old from then-East Berlin who met Nureyev in 1960 while he was a more modest than her student at the Vaganova School. Kremke would tell Nureyev about cinematic counterpart life outside Russia. The young dancer also pushed Nureyev to defect, might suggest. which he would eventually do in June 1961. Kremke told Nureyev: “When I go to the “There you’ll be the greatest dancer in the world. But if you stay here, doctor and they have to you’ll be known only to Russians.” listen to my heartbeat, I Their relationship didn’t last long, however. Nureyev soon met his lift up my blouse [and] Rudolf longtime love, Erik Bruhn, while the bisexual Kremke later took an I’m so shy,” she said Nureyev Indonesian child bride. Kremke died in the mid-Seventies. blushing. So how did

PHOTO BY ZOE DOMINIC/PIX INC./ PHOTO BY TIME LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES “Nureyev never told anybody about his affair with Teja. Not even she manage the more his close friends knew,” says Kavanagh. Rafi que was the only friend in prurient scenes? “That the West to whom Nureyev confi ded his feelings. “Teja was Rudolf ’s fi rst love, and with him he discovered where wasn’t Tang Wei; that his real [sexual] feelings lay,” she says. was the character,” she Kavanagh, who as a teenager studying at the Royal Ballet School would sleep on the London pavement to ensure said fi rmly of her mental she got tickets to see Nureyev perform with his famous partner, Margot Fonteyn, says she fell in love with the dancer distance technique. all over again. “This time around, I fell in love with his mind and his intelligence. He was very witty — and dirty. And She’s not alone in her he had a writer’s mots justes. He would describe a hard stage and say: ‘It concusses the feet,’” she says with a laugh. modesty. “My mother As for Nureyev’s legacy, Kavanagh believes it lies mainly with his students. “He knew more about classical is from Shanghai, so dance than anyone else, and he was a pioneer of modern dance. He was so assimilative. And he was a brilliant, as I was watching I was brilliant teacher — in a way that Fonteyn and [Mikhail] Baryshnikov were not.” thinking, ‘Oh my mother But 20 years writing about ballet are enough — at least for now — for Kavanagh, who is married to ex-Royal would love this,’” said Anna Ballet dancer Ross MacGibbon and has two sons. She is fi nished with her ballet biographies and describes the Sui. “And then the sex Tang Wei book she’s currently working on as “a 19th-century ‘Goodbye to Berlin.’” And, not surprisingly, it’s going to be short. came along and I was like, — Samantha Conti ‘Oh, no, no, no!’”