PRADA PROFITS UP 33%/2 SEAN JOHN’S RETAIL BEAT/3 WWDWomen’s Wear DailyWEDN • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper •ESDAY March 31, 2004 • $2.00 Sportswear Bright Lights LOS ANGELES — L.A. opened its sunny fashion week with a certain laid-back cheer, and nowhere was that spirit more prevalent than at Petro Zillia. Designer Nony Tochterman’s lighthearted attitude, in fact, was evident throughout the collection. She applied color and texture to working-girl outfits as well as more casual fare, such as cardigans and skirts. Here, for example, the striped wool top and floral-print silk skirt. For more on the L.A. shows, see pages 6 and 7.

Target’s Latest Look: New Lifestyle Focus Boosts Women’s Wear By Katherine Bowers GREELEY, Colo. — Target is rolling out its next phase of stores — and they’re all about lifestyle. In its new format — as seen in its unit here — there is an emphasis on shopping by “life occasion,” as well as lavish, wall- size images of its designer apparel, higher ceilings, better lighting and a floor clean enough to picnic on. The reengineered store, which has been in test mode since October here but began rolling out to 25 markets nationwide this month, exemplifies what Target does best: construct pretty, airy See Target’s, Page8 PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Prada Earnings Surge 33% GENERAL in which Prada operates. FASHION: Petro Zillia, Coco Kliks and Rachel Pally were among the By Luisa Zargani Patrizio highlights as Fashion Week rolled on in Los Angeles. Bertelli “The Prada brand is a healthy 6 MILAN — Prada chief Patrizio engine that produces cash flow Target is rolling out its next phase of stores — and they’re all about lifestyle, Bertelli was spot-on in his earn- and which grows continuously, 1 with an emphasis on shopping by “life occasion.” ings prediction of last summer: without ups and downs — it is not Net profit for 2003 soared 33 affected too much by fashion and Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli was spot-on in his earnings prediction of last percent to $43.5 million, or 36 market changes and the fluctua- 2 summer: Net profit for 2003 soared 33 percent to $43.5 million. million euros. tion of exchange rates,” said Though fashion is in a decidedly dressy phase right now, casual apparel is Although profits climbed, Andrea Ciccoli, vice president of 10 proving its resilience and trending toward more put-together looks. sales declined 13.4 percent to Bain & Co. “When all is said and $1.65 billion, or 1.36 billion done, Prada brings results home Sean “P. Diddy” Combs is progressing with his plans to build a chain of euros, from $1.91 billion, or 1.57 focusing on innovative products.” 3 stores and has signed leases for sites in Los Angeles and Paramus, N.J. billion euros, in the prior year. Prada said it will continue to Consumer confidence, which continued to be affected by job concerns, Dollar figures have been con- expand its wholesale and retail was essentially unchanged in March after a plunge in February. verted at current exchange rates. network. Next month, it will 14 The company said revenues open a flagship in Hong Kong, Costs relating to expanding its market position, launching and restructuring were impacted by the political in- the group’s largest store in Asia 14 brands helped send IT Holding into the red for 2003. stability in the Middle East, the outside of Japan. The statement U.S. and Chinese executives hope to form a coalition to find solutions to the Iraqi war, the outbreak of SARS said the store will be pivotal in politically explosive issues of competition and American job losses. in the Far East and the apprecia- ensuring a higher penetration in 17 tion of the euro, but added that the Chinese market. The group SUZY: A dispatch from the Met gala to rival all Met galas; Daryl Hannah’s sales picked up in the second plans to further expand in Asia, 4 naked truth; partying on Bond Street; another Greek royal is on the way. half of the year and in early 2004. opening a “significant” number Earnings before interest, of stores in China, Japan and Classified Advertisements ...... 19-23 taxes, depreciation and amortiza- and said he was confident the South Korea. In 2003, Japan and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is tion stood at $248 million, or 205 “strategy we have adopted will the Asia Pacific area accounted [email protected], using the individual’s name. million euros, in line with the pave the way for significant for 26 percent of group sales. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 previous year. Prada attributed growth in all markets.” In July, the group will open its FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the improvement in its margins, In the first quarter of 2004, third Epicenter store in Los VOLUME 187, NO. 67. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three which grew to 15.1 percent in comparable-store sales grew 24 Angeles/Beverly Hills, which was additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 2003 compared with 13.4 percent percent in the U.S., 67 percent in designed by Dutch architect West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; in 2002, to increased efficiency. China, 22 percent in Singapore Rem Koolhaas. Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior In a statement, Bertelli said and 7 percent in Europe. In 2003, “This is a good strategy, which Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- the “ongoing introduction of in- the U.S. accounted for 23 percent Prada has embraced before oth- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at novative products” helped main- of total sales while Italy account- ers — these stores increase visi- additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. tain the company’s position in ed for 24 percent of sales, and bility,” said Ciccoli. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. the luxury goods sector. Bertelli, the rest of Europe accounted for Last year, Prada opened a six- FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR while noting the “difficult cir- 27 percent. story, 28,000-square-foot flagship DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new cumstances which had a signifi- The group’s core brands, in Tokyo’s Aoyama shopping dis- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production cant impact on the entire luxury Prada and Miu Miu, continued to trict, which was designed by correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, goods sector in 2003,” was opti- account for the bulk of revenues, Herzog & de Meuron. The store, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully mistic about the rest of the year, or 84 percent, in the 65 countries Continued on page 16 screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Specify TAC on your Tech Packs ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. & see the Savings! In Brief

● JUST A FEW MORE QUESTIONS: A Federal Trade Commission request for additional information will delay eyewear giant Luxottica Group SpA’s acquisition of Cole National. In late January Luxottica reached an agreement with Cole to buy all out- standing Cole National shares at $22.50 each, translating into a purchase price of approximately $401 million. Once the deal is completed, Cole will become a Luxottica subsidiary. The FTC re- quest has extended the waiting period established under the Hart- Scott-Rodino Antitrust Improvements Act to the 30th day following the submission by both companies of the additional information.

● FEDERATED GETTING COSI: Marathon Macy’s shoppers will no longer be driven from the store, thus interrupting their shop- ping campaigns, by a need to eat and drink. Having reached a food service agreement with Federated Department Stores Inc., Cosi Inc. will begin opening in-store restaurants at 10 of the country’s largest Macy’s stores this summer. Tom Cole, Federated vice chair, said the move was another step in the com- pany’s “reinvent process,” which is designed to meet rising cus- tomer expectations. The opening of the first 10 restaurants was described as the “initial phase” of the agreement.

● DMC CHANGES: The Dallas Market Center named Jane Robertson vice president of communications during the launch of FashionCenterDallas last weekend. At the same time, the DMC ex- tended the responsibilities of Robbin Wells, senior vice president of leasing, to include apparel and accessories showrooms. Before, Wells supervised hard goods leasing at the center, which spans sev- eral buildings. Pam Kramer continues as vice president of leasing for women’s and children’s fashion. Robertson, who was a market- ing specialist at the Galleria shopping center in Dallas for 12 years, began working at DMC last year as a contract consultant to help launch FCD. Her appointment puts her in charge of advertis- ing, public relations and exhibitor communications. Wells and Robertson report to Cindy Morris, chief operating officer.

Production Locations: Bangladesh, Cambodia, Central America, China, Correction Dubai, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Israel, Korea, Mexico, Kate Beckinsale wore an Yves Saint Laurent dress to the Rodeo Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, USA, Vietnam Drive Walk of Style party for Tom Ford Sunday night. The cap- tion was incorrect on page 4, Tuesday. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 3 Sean John On Course WWDMAGIC on the Move For National Presence By Nola Sarkisian-Miller WWDMAGIC in one hall,” busier atmosphere.” McConnell said. Buyers, especially those By David Moin of retail, and Jeffrey Tweedy, ex- LOS ANGELES — The venue hop MAGIC has undergone seeking out multiple categories, ecutive vice president. is over for MAGIC Marketplace. changes in the last two years as said reuniting the shows will NEW YORK — The debut of Greenberg added: “Sean Women’s apparel trade show a result of the 900,000 square help them cover more ground. Sean John the store is still John appeals to what we believe WWDMAGIC (a partnership be- foot expansion to the South Hall Fred Levine, partner in Agoura months away. Yet Sean “P. is a hip fashion-conscious young tween Women’s Wear Daily and at the LVCC. Licensing and ac- Hills, Calif.-based M. Frederic, a Diddy” Combs is progressing in man. It doesn’t matter what their MAGIC International) will join tive and some young men’s and chain of 19 contemporary, active his plan to build a national age or race or income level is.” its sibling shows at the Las Vegas casual lifestyle exhibitors and kids’ stores, said MAGIC’s chain of Sean John stores. The stores will sell young Convention Center for the moved from the Sands to the timing is right with the opening Within the past few weeks, leas- men’s and boys’ fashions, but will event’s next installment Aug. 30 LVCC in February 2002. At that of his new junior retail concept, es for 3,500-square-foot stores have have room in case women’s mer- to Sept. 2, according to show or- time, the Edge also relocated 101, at the Commons in been signed at Beverly Center in chandise is added to the Sean ganizers. Formerly held at Sands from the Sands to the LVCC. Calabasas shopping center. Los Angeles and the Garden State Jean collection in the future. A Expo & Convention Center, The change is welcome, ac- “This is fantastic for us,” he Plaza in Paramus, N.J. few women’s looks have been WWDMAGIC will join men’s cording to exhibitors and retail- said. “Before, we had to split up “We have three or four other featured on Sean John’s runway show MAGIC International, ers, who say the split venues and if we didn’t have time, we deals pending in Las Vegas, and Combs has in the past said MAGIC Kids and the Edge, along proved challenging for time- wouldn’t make it over to one con- Houston, Hawaii, and the San he’ll launch a women’s line. with the Sourcing Zone and fab- starved buyers. vention center and now we really Francisco area,” said Steve Sean John is seeking some high ric@MAGIC exhibiting at LVCC. Dick Cantrell, an owner of need the resources from both.” Greenberg, president of The productivity rates, in the $800- to Officials said attendance had Hard Tail contemporary sports- Finding the right home has Greenberg Group Inc., a real es- $1,000-a-square-foot range. been steadily increasing at the wear in Santa Monica, Calif., and taken a few years for WWDMAG- tate adviser to Sean John, The flagship is a gamble, Sands until 9/11, when overall 12-year veteran of MAGIC, called IC, which launched in February Lacoste and other retailers. since it’s situated on a stretch of 1995 at the Las Vegas Hilton. The Los Angeles and New Fifth Avenue virtually devoid of Until then, exhibitors with some Jersey Sean Jean stores should better fashion retailing. women’s garments showed along- open in the third or fourth quar- Between Saks Fifth Avenue on side their male counterparts. ter of this year, Greenberg said in 49th Street and Lord & Taylor One year later, the show moved to an exclusive interview. The flag- on 38th Street, the fashion tents in the parking lot across ship, by 41st Street, is now seen stores include Ann Taylor, from the LVCC. In 1998, it found opening around June, Greenberg Fossil, Forman’s and The New permanent space at the Sands said. Previously, an April or York Look. Sean John, consider- Expo & Convention Center. March opening was set, but the ing its drawing power, could be In the process, some say store design had to be reworked. the magnet that pulls additional WWDMAGIC lost out on traffic The strategy is to open 3,500- fashion retailers to the area. with its location 1.5 miles from square-foot stores in high-pro- Fifth Avenue in the 40s and the LVCC. Along the way, a few file, A-list shopping centers and 30s has plenty of foot traffic, fu- Sands vendors switched their downtown shopping districts. eled by Grand Central Station, exhibition space to the LVCC, Ultimately, there could be 200 to Bryant Park, the New York including Paul Frank Industries, 300 Sean John stores, Greenberg Public Library and the vast of- Blue Cult and Riley, or simply predicted. “This is a very fice-worker population. pulled out of WWDMAGIC, such thoughtful approach, involving According to Greenberg, as XOXO. two years of planning the retail “Clearly, we got a very, very at- WWDMAGIC will now be held at the Las Vegas Convention Center, the same According to MAGIC parent, strategy even before signing a tractive rent. We are paying a New York-based Advanstar venue as MAGIC International. single lease,” he said. “There has third of what people on Fifth Communications, 2003 revenues been constant demographic Avenue in the 50s pay,” which travel fell off and attendance de- the development “probably the for all MAGIC events increased analysis.” Sean John’s team in- he says ranges from $600 to clined. Like other shows, it has best single move they’ve made in 4.2 percent over 2002, though cludes Charles Soriano, director $1,200 a foot. been recovering ever since. six or seven years.…It makes the company release doesn’t “We’re doing this because cus- much more sense to merchandise break out specific shows. tomers have requested it,” said young contemporary for men and However, total trade footage for Laura McConnell, general manag- women under one roof.” nontechnology events was es- er and vice president of MAGIC For vendors like Jem sentially flat, declining 1 per- Proposal Would Tighten Marketplace. “About 60 percent of Sportswear, which split its cent. For the third quarter our buyers are crossover, shop- wares between the centers, the ended Sept. 30, total square ping multiple markets, so this is consolidation simplifies things. footage for the fall edition de- Gap CEO Pay Package the right time to do it.” San Fernando, Calif.-based Jem clined 5.6 percent compared McConnell said the shows will had showcased its men’s line of with the 2002 events. The de- By Vicki M. Young long-term equity compensation continue intact as their own entertainment-licensed mer- crease was offset by increased to senior executives be made in brands. That means she doesn’t chandise at the LVCC, and its pricing per square foot, leading NEW YORK — Paul Pressler did the form of restricted shares, anticipate any layoffs, but rather more fashion-driven, contempo- to a 2.9 percent revenue in- very well last year as The Gap not stock options. Moreover, the “growth opportunities across the rary lines, such as Disney crease of $900,000, compared Inc.’s president and chief execu- share program seeks to include board, internally and externally.” Classic Collection, Barbie with the 2002 events. tive officer by taking home an a three-year vesting require- The four shows occupy a total Vintage and the Pink Panther by McConnell said the recent annual salary of $1.5 million. ment and restriction for the of 865,000 square feet, with MAGIC Shag Collection, at the Sands. February show posted a 5 per- However, this type of pay stock grant at a value cap of $1 International taking up 600,000 “I had to run back and forth cent increase in exhibitor space package could change if a cer- million on the date of the grant. square feet, WWDMAGIC filling between management meetings compared with the August 2003 tain mutual fund shareholder Gap, in the Schedule 14-A filed out 210,000 square feet and the and it was very inconvenient,” run. Based upon show data, she gets its way. In a proxy statement Tuesday, said it is opposing the balance used by the other shows. said Jem president Jeff Marine. anticipates an increase in August filed by Gap with the Securities resolution’s adoption and asked Usable convention space at “This will benefit me and it will as well. A marketing campaign and Exchange Commission shareholders to vote against it. the LVCC, comprising three halls, only help traffic.” announcing the news, consisting Tuesday, the retailer noted a In the proxy, Gap is pushing for equals about 2.5 million square Guess Inc. president of of trade advertising and direct shareholder proposal by the shareholders to approve an feet, and plans are in the works as wholesale Nancy Shactman mailers to exhibitors and retail- United Association S&P 500 amendment of the retailer’s exec- to how to merchandise the event. agreed: “I think it’s a really ers, will hit next month. Index Fund. The mutual fund, utive management incentive cash “We have yet to determine the good thing for buyers — it will “We expect to see our atten- which is the beneficial owner of award plan. The Executive allotment of space, but…obvious- be easier for them. We’re in the dance increase as well in 56,693 shares of Gap common MICAP is intended to provide fi- ly our preference is to have LVCC and it can only create a August,” McConnell said. stock, is sponsored by the United nancial incentives for eligible offi- Association of Journeymen and cers to meet and exceed Gap’s an- Apprentices of the Plumbing nual financial goals. One aspect of and Pipe Fitting Industry of the the amendment adds two new U.S. and Canada. It is seeking performance goals, economic Dash and Gensler End Relationship caps on executive compensation. profit and free cash flow, that may The proposal seeks to target be used in making awards, and in- LOS ANGELES — After one year things, they just don’t work well Gensler is not there, all projects the ceo’s salary at the “mean of creases the maximum payable to in business together, Damon together,” Gensler said. “My de- will go on as planned to include salaries paid at peer group com- any participant in a fiscal year Dash and David Gensler have cision to walk away was made in the introduction of Tiret NY, a panies, not to exceed $1 million from $5 million to $7.5 million. parted ways. early March. Damon and I had luxury jewelry and watch annually.” The proposal also Earlier this month, certain Gensler, who headed up differences in management style brand, and the release of “State calls for a cap on annual bonus- performance goals for Gap’s Native, an in-house consulting and vision. I am proud that we Property II,” a film Dash is cur- es. In addition, the mutual fund 2004 fiscal year were set, and if team for The Roc family of were able to help The Roc devel- rently filming. She said that is pushing for the maximum those targets are met, Pressler at brands, has left the company. He op strategies and execute tactics there are members of Native level of annual bonus to be a per- year-end could receive $1.88 mil- and his team just moved into The that helped Damon and The Roc that have remained employed centage of the executive’s salary, lion under the Executive MICAP. Roc offices at 1411 Broadway in grow and expand. I wish my for- by The Roc. but not to exceed 100 percent of For Pressler, meanwhile, 2003 September from his home base in mer partners and the entire Roc Reached by cell phone, salary. represented his first full year at Philadelphia. Gensler said he and family of brands well.” Gensler said he has moved on to As for the stock that execu- Gap. In 2002, which had his Dash did not work well together. A spokeswoman for Dash said: take a position at a “well-known tives receive, the proposal is tenure starting from September, “You can’t put jet fuel in a “David Gensler is no longer an film company in Hollywood” to also asking other shareholders his salary was $535,045, with a pickup truck. There is nothing employee of Native or The Roc.” help produce a new luxury brand. to vote for a requirement that bonus of $885,000. wrong with either of those She did stress that while — Julee Greenberg 4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 The Met Gala to Rival All Met Galas ● Running Naked With Daryl Hannah ● Bond Street

Alexander II, was the guest of honor at a concert given by her friend, pianist Marina Arsenijevic at the home of Andrea Stark. ● Daryl Hannah is telling anybody who cares to listen — and the list is growing shorter and shorter — that she loves to jog in the nude. “It’s not like I throw off my clothes and start running out of control,” she confesses. “But, basically, we’re all apes, right?” Speak for yourself, Daryl. Along with liking to be unfettered whenever possible if it’s a beautiful day, Daryl says she wants to have a baby, and at age 44, she doesn’t think it’s too late. “I’d be happy if I got pregnant tomorrow. I have 31 nephews and nieces and I’ve been at seven births of my sister’s Duane Hampton and best friends’. It’s definitely something I’d like to do.” No news as to what her new boyfriend, Sean McPherson, thinks about this. We can wait if he can. ● Ashley Judd may not have raised her voice in song before, but she does her voice-raising mother, Naomi, and her sister, Wynonna, proud in “De-lovely,” the MGM musical about famous songwriter Cole Porter’s public life — and secret life too — to be released on July 2. Kevin Kline stars as Cole and Ashley plays his beautiful wife and muse, Linda Lee Porter. Ashley and Kevin sing Suzy a duet — “In the Still of the By Aileen Mehle Night” — and she warbles “True Love” on her own. The The Metropolitan Opera’s annual movie is filled with Onstage at the Met gala is one of the extravagant production company’s most glamorous fund-raisers, numbers as the lead character eye® bringing out top corporate sponsors and looks back on his life as if it stars of big business who open their Ashley Judd Judy Ney were one of his spectacular pockets to support the most famous opera house in the stage shows. Natalie Cole, world. Onstage at the Met is just what it sounds like, a WIREIMAGE JUDD PHOTO BY Sheryl Crow, Diana Krall, huge party on the opera’s vast stage with hundreds of Zilkha, the Met’s gala event chairman, who is a genius at Elvis Costello, Alanis Morissette and Robbie Williams guests treading the very boards where some of the running the show and who looked superb in a gold brocade also sing their hearts out in the elaborate production. greatest singers in history have thrilled audiences jacket by Lacroix and black chiffon pants. The glorious ● through the years. Welsh bass-baritone, Bryn Terfel, sang during dinner. Gillian Hearst-Shaw and Annie Churchill have banded This year’s gala was especially glittering, starting And this is who was there: Our U.N. Ambassador together to form a clothing company called Angel. The with the incredible array of enormous chandeliers and Mrs. John Negroponte; Count and Countess Arco; girls, along with designers Zang Toi and Marc Bouwer, hanging overhead, crystal monuments of every shape, Dr. James Billington, who is the Librarian of Congress; will give a birthday dinner for Guess and Victoria’s size and vintage, all chosen from the Met’s elaborate Bessie de Cuevas; Carolina and Reinaldo Herrera; Secret star Larissa Bond at Chelsea hot spot Sette, productions through the years: “La Traviata,” “Don Marta Istomin; the Met chairman Beverly Sills; Doda followed by more undercover adventures next door at Giovanni,” “Der Rosenkavalier,” “Pique Dame,” “Un Voridis; Ezra Zilkha; Bettina Zilkha; Ambassador Jean Viscaya, all this on April 8. Matthew David and Bentley Ballo in Maschera,” “Otello,” “Arabella,” “Die de Ruyt; Spanish Consul General and Mrs. Ricardo Meeker will create a night of high glamour and mystery Fledermaus,” “Manon” and “Boris Godunov.” What a Duque; Anna and William Mann; Mr. and Mrs. Peter around a 007 theme. So it will be a night inspired by the brilliant idea! What could be more grand opera! John Goulandris; Anna Moffo, opera singer of yore; James Bond classic “Goldfinger,” with such guests as This year’s gala dinner honored William C. Weldon, Casey Ribicoff; HRH Prince Zeid Ra’ad Al Hussein and Amanda Hearst, Nicholas Raynes, Lauren Bush, the chairman and chief executive of Johnson & Johnson. HRH Princess Sarah of Jordan; the Honorable and Mrs. Elizabeth Kieselstein-Cord, Topper and Tinsley The dinner chairmen were Klaus Kleinfeld of Siemens Edward Ney; Kathleen Hearst; Duane Hampton; Lally Mortimer and Oliver Hammond with his girlfriend Lydia AG; Hank Paulson, chairman and ceo of Goldman Sachs, Weymouth, and on and on into the night. Hearst-Shaw. They have been asked to dress like secret and David J. O’Reilly, chairman and ceo of Chevron ● agents or Bond girls. Texaco. The dinner raised $1.3 million for the opera. Crown Prince Pavlos of Greece and his stylish wife, ● After cocktails on the opera house’s tiers, the on- Princess Marie-Chantal, and their three children — Elle Macpherson, who turned 40 on Monday, is stage guests dined on lobster, rack of lamb and warm aged seven, five and three — are looking forward to busier than ever. She looks great but doesn’t do much chocolate souffléd cake catered by Glorious Food and another little prince or princess this September. The modeling these days, what with her kiddies, Flynn, 6, danced to music by Michael Carney and his orchestras. baby, who should arrive right in the middle of the and Aurelius, 1, offspring of her companion, Arpad The tables, seating 500 in all, were as glittering as the Olympic Games, fits into the couple’s plans for a large Busson, clinging to her miniskirt. But Elle does run a chandeliers. Bill Tansey created the centerpieces, family. Give them a gold medal because they deserve it. lingerie company called Elle Intimates and is getting vibrant displays of tropical foliage, in tall crystal vases They are so missed in New York, where beautiful ready to launch a cosmetics line. And she has just surrounded by French tulips, hydrangea, vibernum and couples in the social swim with growing families are as landed a role on “Joey,” Matt LeBlanc’s TV spin-off of Dutch sweet peas in shades of spring green and white. rare as rubies. The child’s grandparents, King “Friends” due to premiere this fall. She will reprise her The table linens — cerise, lime green and white — Constantine and Queen Anne-Marie of Greece, are recurring role as Janine Lecroix, a friend of a friend, so were each covered with a matching organza overlay equally thrilled. The news has been cause for rejoicing to speak. She and her agents are pursuing movie offers shimmering with pailletes. Many of the guests thought from London to Athens to Palm Beach, where the royal with her appearances in “Sirens” and “Batman & it was the most beautiful onstage gala ever, with much family’s cousin, Crown Princess Katherine of Robin” to recommend her. Forty is the new 20. That is, of the credit going as ever to the incredible Cecile Yugoslavia, whose husband is Yugoslavia’s Crown Prince if you look like Elle. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 5 Wella’s 2003 Profits Slide on Soft Sales BERLIN — Confirming prelimi- works like spray-on panty hose, 20 to 25 applications. The spray since sold over a million cans. plained the circumstances, such nary figures released in January, covering legs with a purportedly comes in three colors: natural, Air Stocking is available at as its interest-bearing liabilities, the Wella Group Tuesday report- flawless (and run-free) finish. terra-cotta and bronze. The for- Carson’s, Henri Bendel, Nord- leading the indebted company ed a 2.4 percent downturn in Inventor Yoshiumi Hamada mula is guaranteed to last all strom and on QVC April 19. Bellne to seek a $3.33 billion aid pack- earnings before interest and came up with the idea after a day and claims to be sweat- and USA, Air Stocking’s U.S. distribu- age from the government-led fi- taxes and a 2.3 percent decline woman in his office complained waterproof, removed only with tor, expects the line to pull in $28 nancial institute Industrial in sales for 2003. However, the about having to wear stockings in soap and water. Although Air million in first-year sales. Revitalization Corporation of German group noted that on a Japan’s hot and humid summer. — Bryn Kenny Japan (IRCJ). currency-adjusted basis, EBIT “An employee of mine said, ‘I Kanebo Boutique, a sub- rose 1.5 percent on sales that don’t want to wear pantyhose be- sidiary of Kanebo that was estab- gained 4.3 percent. cause they’re uncomfortable in BEAUTY BEAT Kanebo to Spin Off Unit lished in 1975 and now manufac- EBIT reached $381.7 million, the summer,’” said Hamada. “And TOKYO — Kanebo, Japan’s sec- tures and retails women’s wear, or 312.9 million euros, for an she also couldn’t show her pedi- Stocking is reaching the U.S. ond largest beauty company, has will absorb Kanebo’s cosmetics EBIT margin of 9.4 percent com- cure.” Capitalizing on his back- market hot on the heels of Sally won shareholder approval for a business, which will be spun off pared with 9.5 percent in 2002. ground in household products Hansen’s Airbrush Legs leg revival plan, featuring a spin-off May 7. Kenji Chishiki, director of All dollar figures are calculated like spray cleaners, Hamada set makeup, which hit shelves in of its cosmetics operations. At Kanebo’s cosmetics division, will from the euro at current ex- out to create a product that would November 2003, it is already a an extraordinary shareholders be named president of Kanebo change rates. EBIT in the pro- simulate the look of stockings. hit in Japan, where it was intro- meeting held March 30, Kanebo Boutique. fessional division declined by Each $28 4.2-oz. can includes duced in February 2003 and has president Takashi Hoashi ex- — Koji Hirano 5.6 percent to $246.7 million, or 202.2 million euros, but in- creased by 0.7 percent to $101.7 million, or 83.4 million euros, in the cosmetics and fragrances di- vision, and leapt 17.6 percent to $69.2 million, or 56.7 million euros, in the consumer division. MILANOVENDEMODA Sales for the group hit $4 bil- lion, or 3.3 billion euros. By seg- 1st-4th October, 2004 ment, professional sales were Fiera Milano Piazza Sei Febbraio down 3.4 percent to $1.8 billion, or 1.5 billion euros, while con- International Presentation Organized by EXPO CTS INFO: +39 02349841 sumer sales were down 9.2 per- Women's Prêt-à-Porter Collections in cooperation with FIERA MILANO cent to $1.1 billion, or 932.3 mil- Spring/Summer 2005 www.milanovendemoda.it lion euros. Cosmetics and fra- grance sales gained 9 percent to $1 billion, or 842.8 million euros. Management said “2004 will be a year of great challenges for Wella.” The firm said it expects the consumer business to start bucking its downward trend while lately being “transferred step by step in the P&G organi- zation on the basis of the global license contract,” which was signed in late January 2003. Consumer division earnings are also expected to improve in the mid-term. Wella projects the professional division will “slight- ly increase the margin” above 2003’s level with sales forecasted “above the market level.” Meanwhile, the fragrance business under the Cosmo- politan Cosmetics umbrella is expected to remain the strongest motor of growth in 2004. — Melissa Drier Air Stocking Takes Flight NEW YORK — Look out L’eggs: Air Stocking, the Japanese leg spray, is hitting the U.S. market. With a formula that combines hy- drolyzed silk, amino acids, green tea and caffeine, Air Stocking

Air Stocking 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 Work ing Gi rls and Riveting The L.A. shows opened this week, with looks inspired by a range of decadent decades, from Petro Zillia’s Thirties glamour girls to

Petro Zillia: Often, designers will

▲ Rachel Pally Maria Bianca Nero show their collections to ▲ ambivalent applause, leaving Coco Kliks one to decide whether, metaphorically speaking, the glass is half-empty or half-full. los At Petro Zillia, however, the glass runneth over. Designer angeles Nony Tochterman showed exuberant clothes that channeled the screwball glamour of working girls like Claudette Colbert in the Thirties and Mary Tyler Moore in the Seventies. In fact, an appealing mix of those decades ran through the collection in the form of tulip-shaped skirts, peplum jackets, vivid cloche hats and antiqued gold brooches. Wool suits looked light and tailored in a delicious mint and violet tweed, and Tochterman’s flirty cardigans and sweaters appeared in a Crayola box of colors. “Cheer up,” the clothes seemed to say, with bursting floral blooms printed on silk blouses, neck scarves and skirts. These printed silks were also used in a final group of gowns with long, princess skirts attached to delicate, slinky halter tops. Leave it to Tochterman to supply her fall heroines with a sweet storybook ending.

Coco Kliks: The can-do spirit of the Forties was the theme of Coco Kliks’ first collection, which featured Rosie-the-Riveter silhouettes embellished with Surrealist images. Kliks built her business with quirky T-shirts featuring motifs like long-lashed eyes, flowers and dolphins, and this sensibility was apparent in her fall collection. There were colorful striped suits and Forties-style swing dresses stitched with vivid chunky yarns, or pinned with lip-shaped jeweled brooches. The retro theme could have been less literal, however, since it overshadowed some of Kliks’ more inventive touches, such as her star- shaped embroidery. Still, the intricate floral vines on the button-down shirts and the adorable jackets in metallic-laced tweeds gave the collection a fresh feel, and mark Kliks as a rising talent worth watching.

Rachel Pally: With her hip-hugging, curve- complementing jerseys draped in fluid, feminine shapes, Rachel Pally is all about the body this fall. Known for looks inspired by Seventies Halston disco styles and Eighties stretch dancewear, her first runway show played up these themes with some added flounce and sophistication. Return customers will still find her harem pants and cowl- necked tops, but now the Pally gal can add come-hither capelets, tiered dresses and soft, drapey skirts to her wardrobe. Luckily, the designer knows her strengths, and she stayed focused on exploring the flattering fabric that is her métier.

Maria Bianca Nero: Contemporary designers are often given to chasing trends, but designer Maria Bianca Nero held fast to the classics this season, sending out pretty and fitted silhouettes that should work for many seasons to come. For day, there were smart, tweed shells, matte jersey blouson tops, slim pinstripe trousers and camel suede coats. For those early evening assignations, Nero switched to softer fabrics such as lace and charmeuse, working them into unstructured dresses featuring rows of delicate beads along the neckline. Some highlights from her group of cocktail looks were a great strapless charmeuse number with a pleated skirt and a sexy black jersey halter dress, along with plenty of fake fur wraps.

to talk about his favorite photographer Lloyd Klein’s new face, background in architecture served him well — (Helmut Newton), films (“Children of reconstructed he mapped out precise measurements on his Klein Fashion Scoops Paradise” and “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari”) with prosthetics. face, ensuring that his new look was in perfect and how he hates to sit still. Perhaps that’s on the “The collection proportion. COCO POPS?: Could the Material Girl be why he doesn’t wear a seat belt. Arriving 30 runway was easy to developing a taste for tweed? Embarking soon minutes late to the packed auditorium, he Monday reproduce, but I LA DOLCE WEBER: Bruce Weber celebrated his on a new world tour, Madonna is said to have apologized for the delay, explaining that he’d night. redesigned all 58th birthday Monday night at Beverly Hills’ approached Karl Lagerfeld about her wardrobe. been pulled over by the police. the specific old-yet-new-again hot spot La Dolce Vita. The The designer hinted at a possible collaboration things [on my 38-year-old restaurant, a favorite of Frank Tuesday at a public Q&A session as part of the EXTREME MAKEOVER: French designer Lloyd face],” he said Sinatra and Old Guard regulars Nancy Reagan, Paris Film Festival. The session was convened Klein, in a coma for three days following last over the Betsey Bloomingdale and Diane Keaton, around Lagerfeld’s photographs of celebrities. month’s horrific car crash in Paris that telephone shuttered its doors to the public for Weber’s When someone asked the designer whom he shattered his cheek, chin, nose and 14 teeth, Tuesday. “[The 60-person dinner, which included guests would like to shoot, Lagerfeld immediately made a miraculous recovery for his Los plastic surgeon] Cornelia Guest, Joel Schumacher and Miranda said he’d “love” to photograph Madonna — Angeles runway show Monday, which kicked completely got Richardson. While most Old Hollywood haunts and design costumes for her tour. He didn’t off Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Smashbox it.” Klein also like Chasen’s and The Bistro have gone the elaborate and went on in his rapid-fire manner Studios. But even more awe-inspiring was said his way of the horse-drawn carriage, La Dolce Vita WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 7 Showtime g Rosies The Bank At a whopping 15,000 square feet, the newest — and largest — permanent showroom to bow with this week’s fall mar- to Rachel Pally’s Seventies disco divas. ket in downtown doesn’t stand out simply due to its size. The Bank, as veteran sales reps Betsee Isenberg and Kay Sides have christened their new space at the down- Kay Sides Petro Zillia town corner of Ninth and Los Angeles Streets, introduces a and Betsee groundbreaking approach in fashion showrooms here by Isenberg at putting out the welcome mat to more than their retail The Bank. clients. It champions the idea of a community center for the surrounding industry with a cafe, lounge and even a gift shop occupying a corner of this vast landmark, former- ly housing Manufacturer’s Bank. The retail corner inside is cheekily named Banc-o-Mat. “As downtown has grown in the last few years, we want- ed to show we’re really committed to this industry — not just to the city, but to downtown,” said Sides. “With this space, we had the great opportunity to take the showroom concept to another place and raise the bar.” For Isenberg, the square footage only boosted her dreams. “There’s no really great place right now to run down and get a cappuccino, so we thought, let’s do it for us and our neighbors. It’s a place to hang out, meet people. Besides, when buyers come, we don’t want them to leave.” It’s that kind of thinking, of course, that has made Isenberg and Sides a dream team among sales reps. Their three showrooms — Hatch, 10-Eleven and Theory — have dominated floor 10 of the New Mart, as well as the down- town marts, for years, thanks in part to a sixth sense for new talent like Rick Owens and Michelle Mason. Side, who opened Hatch in 1999 when she partnered with Isenberg, helms a stable that includes Mason, Henry Duarte, Tree, James Perse and Lacoste, among others. The Hawaii native worked for Chanel corporate for nine years, then at Maxfield, where she bought from Isenberg. With a baby on the way, making buying trips to Europe was less appealing, so Sides accepted Isenberg’s offer to partner. Isenberg’s downtown creds go back to the Eighties, when she worked in-house at various companies, then The art-fashion fusion at 11B opened her first showroom at the new New Mart in 1989, at the California Market Center. calling it 10-Eleven after the unit address. Among the lines there are Robert Rodriguez, Catherine Malandrino, Joie, But with access from the New Mart next door and right Jet and Vince. Last year, she added another showroom de- off the street, The Bank should reenforce the growing voted to Theory. sense of community and leadership returning to these Together the three showrooms raked in $80 million in parts. Already, the pair are working with nationally re- sales in 2003 and count two dozen employees. spected decorative art consultant Cristina Grajales on fu- With the three showrooms bursting at the seams, the ture exhibitions for the space. pair looked to New Mart owner Joyce Eisenberg for more “I really hope that in the next years, downtown can be- square footage — possibly an entire floor. As a joke, her come more than a daytime destination,” said Isenberg. property manager suggested they might as well take over “I’m hoping that what we’re doing here is part of this the adjacent building, a bank for more than five decades. change. We’re definitely here to stay.” “We looked at it and five seconds later said we’d take it. I — Rose Apodaca Jones think it shocked them.” The bank doors locked forever last Halloween and dem- olition began. Everything but the cafe will be ready by mar- 11B ket this Thursday. Even without the espresso machine Art — graphic, bold and often political — has always been ready to go, the Bank should prove the week’s most-visited an integral part, even the basis, of urban streetwear. And attraction. now it’s distinguishing the newly christened streetwear Within this cavernous hall with its 35-foot ceilings, and floor of downtown’s California Market Center. beyond the walls of frosted glass, lies a kind of theme park Step out of the B-tower elevator on floor 11 and flavor- of fashion. The dozen brands will be displayed according ful, even cutting-edge images immediately tell visitors this to their identity. A “jeans bar” will showcase Chip & isn’t just another showroom floor. The sprawling murals Pepper and Duarte’s new diffusion denim. Many of the 10- and more temporary canvas works are among the new and Eleven lines will be presented beyond 20-foot doors stand- hipper projects the CMC leadership is now green-lighting. ing at the end of the space, permanently fixed open enough “The focus is really downtown, art, fashion and beer,” to reveal an enormous chandelier and oversize zebra-cov- said a CMC spokeswoman. Behind the program is Aaron ered ottoman inside. Levant and Luis Pulido, partners in Agenda, the High glam also heightens the drama inside the original streetwear trade show that will be held on 11B during the bank vault, a showcase for jewelry and accessory lines first three days of market, starting Thursday. Lena Wald, Juliana Raye, L’frank. Even the deposit boxes The pair realized more than half their business was in will contain samples from the lines. “The building owners graphic T-shirts. “So we thought we would showcase their wanted to redo the floors, take out the vault. We said ‘no art on a larger scale, which ties in with the stuff they are way,’” said Isenberg. “We love the details and have worked selling,” said Levant. “Using their work helps to surround them where we can.” the show with great energy.” More fun than challenge for architectural firm Eid All the art is for sale, yet Levant says it’s not just about Designs and interior designer Lia Greg, they managed to commerce: “The kind of people Agenda brings in appreci- has endured, thanks in part to Alessandro Ford retain the expanse of walnut across a corner, and sealed ate the showcase, so it doesn’t really matter if the art sells Uzielli, a business developer and Ford Motors heir the concrete floors (along with adding terrazzo where or not. That’s not what it’s about.” who acquired the place last year. A self-confessed needed). Other showrooms on the floor are also following the art- Sinatra-phile, Uzielli wanted to keep Ol’ Blue Behind the scenes, it’s a maze of rooms. There’s a fashion fusion. At the Jose Angel showroom, more contem- Eyes’ memory alive while attracting a whole new kitchen and plenty of office and storage space. “I don’t porary lines by designers including Maggie Barry and generation of low-key rat packers, all good with even know how to get out of here,” laughs Isenberg as she Erica Rose hang next to paintings by artist Dora Hofmann. the ladies. But one of his most notorious clients leads a tour. “This aim to support independent artists — the fashion was Peter Bacanovic, who dined there on New With the new space, the duo are giddily emboldened and the art are all built around the spirit of independ- Year’s Eve. about their contribution to downtown’s rebirth, from the ence,” said Angel, who is also producing a designer collec- new Frank Gehry-designed Disney Hall to the many re- tive showcase this Saturday and Sunday nights at the Bliss COAT CAPERS: Allegri, the Italian outerwear stored landmark buildings surrounding the fashion district. Penthouse in Beverly Hills. company, has hired the Antwerp design duo Filip One sore spot: The departure of fashion week from the The CMC spokeswoman said she is hopeful retailers Arickx and An Vandevorst, known together as AF ’hood. Mention of it sparks a mixed reaction. “I’m sad they will take to the art when they hit market this week. “We Vandevorst, to give it new fashion dash. The left downtown, but I’m very happy that they’re finally to- hope they feel a sense of discovery. It’s very likely curious collaboration starts for fall and includes Allegri’s gether,” said Sides. Isenberg echoed her partner, adding visitors who may not know about you, will find you when staple coats but also a small collection of shirts one key point: “I just don’t like the fact we’re now promot- they go and see what art’s next door.” and trousers for men and women. ing Culver City.” — Kavita Daswani PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DONATO SARDELLA GIANNONI AND DONATO GIOVANNI TYLER BOYE, PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 Target’s New Lifestyle

Wal-Mart customers hit the retailer’s Supercenters six to eight times a month, while SuperTarget shoppers stop in only two to three times a month. — Deborah Weinswig, Smith Barney

The new store in Greeley, Colo.

Continued from page one stores that take the low-budget aftertaste out of discount shopping. Target Trying to Get Into the Supercenter Groove But appearances can be deceiving. Despite the rosy Target Trying to Get Into the Supercenter Groove looks of the design, industry experts say the retailer faces several warty challenges. BOSTON — Now that 100,000-plus-square-foot Target stores forth with supercenters, the Minneapolis retailer appears to be Among them: price deflation puncturing high-margin with vast pantry sections spread out nationwide this month, searching for a halfway measure that will balance the traffic categories such as apparel and electronics, tough comp- where does that leave SuperTarget? draw of food with the profitability of general merchandise. store sales comparisons, the continuing onslaught of It’s a valid question since the retailer is opening 25 dis- Because it doesn’t control food distribution as Wal-Mart Wal-Mart Supercenters and Wal-Mart’s ambitions to count stores this month, but only one full-grocery SuperTarget, does — which means slightly higher prices in its stores as a become a fast-fashion force. in Durham, N.C. When the Minneapolis retailer has its second result — food is inherently a less profitable business for The stakes are such that, as Bain & Co. retail director store-opening drive in July, it plans to bow 21 discount stores Target. However, some experts believe it needs to sell milk to Darrell Rigby puts it, “Target will need every possible and seven SuperTargets, a ratio more in line with recent sell more Mossimo denim and Isaac Mizrahi sunglasses. dollar and brain wave focused on competing with Wal- growth for the format. Therefore the question on the table seems to be can a little Mart if they hope to maintain or gain market share. They Yet company executives appear to be tempering the bull- food — primarily high-margin items like frozen pizza and BBQ can’t afford to subsidize [Marshall] Field’s and Mervyn’s ishness they once displayed about supercenters. In the com- sauces stocked at the Greeley store — mimic the traffic draw while fighting such an intense battle.” pany’s fourth-quarter conference call in February, Target chief of a full supercenter grocery? But with this new store format — which industry experts financial officer Douglas Scovanner noted that SuperTargets Darrell Rigby, retail director for consultant Bain & Co., estimate took the retailer more than two years to concep- and discount stores “behave in financial terms in virtually believes it’s an open but crucial question for Target. tualize and test — Target is putting a stake in the ground identical fashion.” The supercenter’s relatively higher sales are “No one else, including Target, has yet figured out how to about what it does best and what businesses it can own. offset by lower returns, he added. make a supercenter sing like Wal-Mart does,” he observed. And women’s apparel, it clearly believes, is one such While Wall Street has long anticipated Target would eventu- “Target needs a strong response to that threat.” business. ally follow Wal-Mart’s enormously profitable lead and plow — Katherine Bowers In its new format, the retailer has reoriented and enlarged ladies’ apparel, to roughly 10,000 square feet from an estimated 5,000 square feet. still do better than anyone else [in the discount channel].” focused on convenience,” he said. A Target spokeswoman did not respond to requests Besides the ones hanging on the walls, the other big Recognizing those realities, Target has arranged the for specifics on the new store design, but the store picture is that Target desperately wants to increase the new format in terms of the common “themes” that cause a looked to be slightly more than 100,000 square feet. It number of times a customer visits each month. customer to shop — a need for greeting cards or gift sup- replaced an 88,000-square-foot older store, according to More transactions, analysts pointed out, is the only way plies, seasonal apparel, baby gear or high-consumption store associates in this fast-growing Denver suburb, who for Target to cope both with deflation (which nipped $1.5 foods. It’s hoping that assembling a mix of daily “needs” wore R.I.P. T-213 (the number of the closed store) billion out of sales last year, according to Target chief finan- with the higher-margin “wants” can convince customers to stitched onto red polo shirts. cial officer Douglas Scovanner, speaking on the company’s visit more often and spend more when they do. Hugging the far right wall in the new format, women’s year-end conference call) and Wal-Mart Supercenters. The new layout reflects the retail industry’s growing wear stretches from the front of the store to the back. On The situation can be summed up in a statistic: Wal- interest and sophistication in a new form of category man- a recent visit, the department led with a colorful blast of Mart customers hit the retailer’s Supercenters six to agement, known as consumer marketing at retail. In sum, Mossimo swimwear, typically a strong performer and a eight times a month, while SuperTarget shoppers stop in CMAR moves the focus from selling a particular product symbolic statement that Target is not going to be shy only two to three times a month, according to Smith to clustering goods around a particular consumer’s needs. about protecting its turf — or its surf, as the case may be. Barney analyst Deborah Weinswig. Wal-Mart plans to The store in Greeley shows how Target used CMAR Instead of posters and a few wall racks that divided add (including relocations) 220 to 230 Supercenters this insights to play musical chairs with several of its depart- the old-format apparel department into “cubicles” of year while Target has announced plans for only seven ments, and even with some categories within departments. misses’, junior and activewear, the new department fea- SuperTargets this year. For instance, instead of putting ladies’ and men’s tures enormous wallboard fashion shots of its designer Bain’s Rigby noted, “As Wal-Mart’s Supercenters grow, apparel slightly left and right of center, respectively, brands, starting with Mossimo and progressing down to retailers such as Target must find ways to stay top-of- women’s apparel is now on the far right (or left, depend- new Baby-Boomer brand Linden Hill at the back. mind with their core consumers. Job one is to keep cus- ing on the entrance configuration) and a scaled-down The changes give apparel new “grandeur,” noted Marshal tomers coming into the store as frequently as possible.” men’s wear department is at the back next to electronics. Cohen, co-president of NPD Fashionworld, who has visited According to Bain research, Target’s customer is, on Taking that central spot is an infant department several of the new-format stores that opened this month. average, five years younger than Wal-Mart’s, with a resembling a mini-me version of Babies ‘R’ Us. It stocks “Target is making a commitment that says, ‘We’re putting household income that’s $5,000 to $10,000 higher. “They everything from jars of mashed prunes to Amy Coe vin- our best foot forward’ with apparel,” he said, “which they are more comfortable on the Internet and a little more tage-floral crib bedding, one of Target’s latest designer WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 9 e Focus partnerships. Infants’ is nestled up to a larger lingerie and loungewear section, which now also includes Liz Lange and Target’s private label, In Due Time, materni- ty lines. That whole cluster is approximately where men’s wear used to reside. Part of that is simple category math. The men’s wear market has been an uphill battle for several years, while infant and toddler apparel sales across all channels climbed 4 percent in 2003 to $10.6 billion, according to The NPD Group. When a category is that strong, it can spur sales of everything around it, which is presumably one of the reasons why Target moved maternity out of women’s sportswear and next to infants’. Although women’s wear has decamped from that center- store post, it has not lost status at Target, Cohen contended. “Conventional wisdom used to be that putting some- thing floating left or right of center would force people to go through,” noted Cohen. “What they found is that people shop big boxes somewhat like a grocery store. They grab a cart and head to one side.” As well, Target’s long women’s department stands Target’s prototype boosts space devoted to women’s apparel, like the Mossimo and Isaac Mizrahi lines. apart, visually, from the centralized grid of apparel racks used in Kmart and Wal-Mart. A wide aisle runs along the able price that Target will have to lengthen their stride pushed all the way to the back, and tight-clustered expi- department, allowing customers to stroll along and move to stay competitive,” he added. ration dates several weeks out indicated robust sales. in when something appeals to them. When asked on the most recent conference call how Nonetheless, Target still had a thing or two to learn Based on anecdotal evidence in the Greeley unit, Target plans to improve apparel this year, cfo Scovanner about local food, since several potato chip bags were on these new stores are pushing more fashion and stylish responded briefly that focus was to “upgrade and the point of exploding and others had split seams. activewear. Danskin’s two Target-exclusive lines — Pro improve our own-label assortments.” Because of the high altitude, chips that aren’t bagged Spirit and Freestyle —showed a range of Pucci-esque Analysts weren’t won over. locally bloat and pop as the air inside expands. and Mod prints on yoga tops. “Where is their next Isaac?” asked Northeast But because a pantry section can be a huge traffic Cherokee had a smaller presence here, only four Securities analyst Eric Beder. “Target needs the excite- booster, it seems Target is likely to be collecting more racks, which may indicate the retailer is becoming less ment to draw people to its stores.” chips than spilling them. reliant on its long-running Americana house brand. Perhaps the redesigned store’s most striking innova- Gary Ruffing, retail director at consultant BBK Ltd. Linden Hill, the new misses’ brand reminiscent of and a former Kmart vice president, said when Kmart better line Eileen Fisher, goes after Cherokee’s Baby- Target’s customer is, on installed a pantry section in a store, first-year sales went Boomer demographic. Linden Hill showed Tencel skirts up “in the double-digit range.” He said Target could eas- and jackets, each priced $27.99, under a caption touting average, five years younger than ily be seeing a similar boost in its sales. the fabric’s “ease.” “The pantry department has a lot of clout,” he said. Apart from a couple of carousels of Levi Strauss Wal-Mart’s, with a household “People at Kmart used to say, ‘If you aren’t selling milk Signature junior denim, the only new fashion properties to mom, you aren’t selling anything else.’” were designer extensions: Isaac Mizrahi swimwear and income that’s $5,000 to If adding more food is all aimed at making Target’s a rack of Swell activewear (sports bras, yoga pants, customers visit often, preliminary indications suggest shorts). That’s the third apparel-category extension for $10,000 higher. the chain is on track. the housewares brand designed by Cynthia Rowley, Speaking on a year-end conference call in February, which already does intimates and sleepwear. — Darrell Rigby, Bain & Co. Scovanner said same-store transactions counts were up 4 Analysts, who noted that both Wal-Mart and Target per- percent since the beginning of 2003, a result that formed relatively poorly with apparel last year, encouraged “pleased” him and that he expected to continue into 2004. Target to dial up the attitude — and downplay Merona tion is its pantry section, which is 50 percent larger than Northeast Securities’ Beder wasn’t bowled over by basics — in its apparel department. They pointed out that previous convenience food sections, according to Target that number. “Wal-Mart drives consistent comps because Target, which sizzles in its marketing and television com- Stores president Gregg Steinhafel, on the conference they have frequency and take an increasing share of cus- mercials, sometimes lacks the same vigor at store level. call. No mere selection of chips, soda and candy, the tomers’ purchases,” he noted. “The question with Target “Target feels a little calm. It’s a bit of a disconnect pantry includes everything from private label frozen is, can this model get that frequency and the wallet from all the excitement and energy of their ads,” salmon fillets to Paul Newman salad dressing, as well as share? Target’s customer base [because it’s more afflu- observed Jim King, co-chief creative officer at Toronto- frozen foods, milk, bread, cleaning supplies and paper ent] has many more shopping options than Wal-Mart’s based retail design consultancy Perennial Inc. “Their products, but not meat or fresh produce. and they use them.” stores can lack a little of the wonderful retail excitement An old industry gauge on how fast a store’s goods turn In a research report, Beder called the discounter’s that someone like H&M or Victoria’s Secret or even Wal- is to check the bread aisle to see how many loaves are on growth in the past three years “mediocre” and noted Mart generates by having a little chaos.” the shelves and if the expiration dates are out. Since the that, in the same period, Target Stores has been “unable Target’s “marketing is so good that it’s actually more bread companies manage the stock level (and absorb the to consistently register reliable growth when confronted fashionable than the merchandise in stores,” said Bain’s cost if the goods go stale) the bread vendors will stock with difficult comparisons at either the same-store sales Rigby. And while Target still leads the discount pack in thinly if sales are slow. or operating profits lines.” The chain has only recorded looking trend-right, “specialty retailers are doing such A veteran food industry executive who toured the quarterly income growth at or above its goal of 15 per- an impressive job of providing fast-fashion at a reason- Greeley store noted that the full shelves, with loaves cent, in five of the last 12 quarters, Beder pointed out. Smith Barney’s Weinswig also correlated Target’s financial performance to a need for a redesign. “If you look at it on a two-year stack, their comps are still not as strong as Wal-Mart,” she said. “The frequen- cy-of-visit thing is so important and that’s why this for- mat is so critical.” Overall, she views the format as “more female friend- ly,” but remains concerned that the shift to more high- frequency, low-margin products such as food will contin- ue to pressure Target’s profit margins. Regardless, Target, known to be diligent and thorough about testing new formats against a group of control stores, seems confident that this format is the right step. According to store associates at Greeley, the company is planning to remodel two other Denver-area stores, one in Boulder and one in Arvada, Colo., to mirror Greeley. That’s on top of the 25 March openings in markets rang- ing from Bangor, Maine, to West Hollywood, Calif. In addition to Hollywood, Target is putting in four other California doors (La Quinta, Redlands, Sacramento and Stockton North). “These stores provide more guest-friendly merchan- dise adjacencies, offer assortments in which key cate- gories have been expanded or edited to incorporate our guests preferences and more effectively convey value in category dominance,” said Steinhafel on the conference call. “We believe these changes enhance Target’s brand image and give our guests more reasons to make Target their preferred shopping destination.” 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004

Casual Report Complementing the Urge to Dress Up

By Evan Clark A white cotton and acrylic NEW YORK — Though fashion is going through a decidedly dressy phase right now, casual apparel — which came to the forefront during the dot-com ribbed top and boom of the Nineties — is proving its resilience, but not its isolation. blue cotton and Even casual apparel is trending toward more put-together looks — the spandex denim jacket, T-shirt and jeans combo that is increasingly worn not for work, but for pants from lazy weekend ventures. Plus, what is passing as relaxed casual looks now Focus 2000. often have less in common with the unadorned basics of several years ago, looks that have been pressured at the cash register, apparently for being what they are — simple. Aru Kulkarni, president of Liz Claiborne apparel, said, “The casual lifestyle is very alive and kicking,” but conceded, “it definitely seems as though the casualization of America is starting to level off.” There’s been a shift from uniform casual dressing. Kulkarni said, “Women today are so much savvier than before [in the way they dress]. They’re really getting better at mixing and matching.” Using an example with brands from Claiborne’s portfolio, she said women are coming up with their own looks, mixing Lucky Brand jeans with a bouclé blazer from Liz Claiborne. One indication of the health of the casual market is strength in denim, she said, which has been a hot category for Claiborne, espe- cially five-pocket jeans with special washes and cropped jackets. “What’s more casual than denim?” Kulkarni asked rhetorically. “We live in such cyclical times. A couple of years ago, people became too casual. We’re kind of in a fun place right now. What amazes me is just how comfort- able women are becoming with their individuality.” Women, she said, are increasingly looking at fashion magazines and tak- ing style cues from myriad places, more so than some might think in haunts Co & Eddy’s orange Mac & Jac’s far from the more fashion-conscious coasts. suede jacket, blue acrylic, “We’re maybe not giving Middle America as much credit [as it deserves],” brown cotton mohair and she said, noting that that customer has become bolder in her shopping pat- turtleneck and cotton knit terns and buying style. wool and spandex sweater and According to STS Market Research, the casual sportswear market raked in herringbone pants. Gloria sales of $26.1 billion last year, down 0.4 percent from 2002. This included sales Vanderbilt’s of jeans, casual pants and shorts, knit and woven shirts (excluding dress shirts), brown cotton sweaters and athletic wear. Sales of dressier looks, including dress pants, skirts, and spandex dresses, dress shirts and blouses, slid 4 percent to $12.1 billion in 2003. The pants. total sportswear market dipped 1.5 percent to $38.2 billion. Lynne Coté, group chief executive officer of women’s moderate sports- A tan cotton wear at Jones Apparel Group, described her casual business as “good,” with items like cargo and capri pants, as well as the more casual components of and spandex the career business, selling well. corduroy Polo shirts are “off the chart,” she said, noting that customers are gravitat- blazer, pink ing toward a cleaned-up casual. cotton henley “It’s not just a regular polo shirt, but a polo shirt with a pretty grosgrain and blue ribbon on it,” Coté said. “When [casual] is too urban or too rugged, it’s not cotton denim selling as well.” pants from Some of the current fashion trends, though, make a bit of an uphill battle So Blue by for casual. Sigrid Olsen. “The whole return of ‘the pretty’ lends itself more toward pretty dresses, pretty shirts, more feminine kinds of suitings,” she said. “Some of the casual tends to be more androgynous and manly.” Kathy Bradley-Riley, senior vice president of merchandising at The Doneger Group buying and consulting firm, said consumers continue to buy fashion denim, “athleisure” looks, printed T-shirts and, in bottoms, capri and cropped styles. “I don’t think it’s as sloppy as it may have been a couple of years ago,” said Bradley-Riley of casual apparel. “It’s more pulled together. Casual can be anything but basic. The customer has voted at retail and she’s not buying basics. Anything with a slight fashion twist has been good. The slightest bit of novel detail is giving her reason to buy.” That novel twist can be anything from trimming to a splash of vivid color. Pink, for instant, continues to sell across a wide berth of categories, including casual. “Casual is certainly not going to go away,” said Bradley-Riley. “We still live in a predominately casual society.” Janet Howard, vice president of design for Dockers at Levi Strauss & Co., agreed: “It’s getting a little bit dressier, but I still think people are dressing casual. Everything still has to be special. I think basic is dead.

Nothing can be basic anymore. Everything has to be special, more interest- MITRA; MODELS: GIULLIANA/WILHELMINA AND REBECCA LEE/MAJOR; ROBERT PHOTOS BY ROANNA, TRICOMI MANAGEMENT BOTH FOR WARREN SELDON, MAKEUP BY HAIR BY

ing, something that appeals to you.” Kathy Gauthier, division manager of women’s apparel at Orvis, You’ve Got The Order... which focuses on the casual country lifestyle for Baby Boomers, said, “We find strength in clothes that just suggest a little bit of out- Are You Sure You’ll Get Paid? doorsiness, a cargo pocket here or there. There’s a lot more outfit- Sterling Factors: Serving Businesses for 75 Years! ting going on in casual clothing. People really want you to show them how to dress.” •Protects your receivables Orvis is offering a lot of classic looks that can be mixed and •Puts cash back into your cash flow matched. The swing from more relaxed to more structured looks is •Opens letters of credit to bring in product nothing new, though. ...and we do it all as part of Sterling National Bank! “We’ve got an industry that overacts all the time,” said Jack Weinstock, president of corporate brands at Intertex Apparel Sterling wants to be your financial partner. For your own pieceof mind, Group. “There’s a blending of the two. People in the casual area are Contact: explore the possibilities by calling one of our relationship managers. adding a few things that are more structured and the career people are adding more casual.” For Factoring call Stanley Officina, For Asset-Based Lending call Robert Schnitzer, The firm’s Maurice Sasson label carries career and casual looks. President Vice President “It’s a question of having the proper amount of casual and the Sterling Factors Corporation at 212-575-4413 Sterling National Bank, at 212-575-4446 proper amount of career,” said Weinstock, noting the customer’s STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION FDIC lifestyle has changed and vendors need to change with her. STERLING NATIONAL BANK NYSE: STL “Casual’s not going to die, so you want to blend the two of them,” he said. “In our business, it’s planned obsolescence, so all of a sud- 500 Seventh Avenue • New York, NY 10018 • www.sterlingbancorp.com den it’s time for newness. There’s a necessity for balance so you OUR DOORS ARE OPEN ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP have a sufficient, but not excessive amount in any one area to give the customer what she wants.”

12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004

Casual Report Girl Friday NEW YORK — Ever since casual Friday came into play, office dress codes have loosened up a bit. For fall, designers in the better and moderate markets have made casual dressing easy, yet chic. From great leather jackets to corduroy skirts, these looks can take any professional straight from the office to a night on the town with friends.

Lauren Ralph Lauren’s cotton cable-knit sweater; Izod’s cotton shirt and cotton denim skirt.

City DKNY’s polyester, wool, Liz Claiborne’s acrylic and lambswool,lambswool, acrylicacrylic From left: Calvin polyamide and nylon cardigan Klein’s leather jacket, tweed jacket, and nylon lace cashmere shell and cotton and camisole and wool pants. Kangol spandex cotton corduroy hat; Via Spiga shoes. corduroy skirt skirt. Camper Kenneth Cole’s leather and wool scarf. shoes; Kangol hat. jacket, cotton lace- Camper shoes. trim top and cotton denim pants.

Axcess’ acrylic jacket, rayon and nylon camisole and cotton and spandex denim pants. Kangol hat. ROANNA, BOTH FOR WARREN TRICOMI; FASHION ASSISTANT: LINA AHLBERG; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE LINA AHLBERG; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: ROANNA, TRICOMI; FASHION BOTH FOR WARREN PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA; MODELS: GIULLIANA/WILHELMINA AND REBECCA LEE/MAJOR; HAIR BY SELDON AND MAKEUP MITRA; MODELS: GIULLIANA/WILHELMINA AND REBECCA LEE/MAJOR; HAIR BY ROBERT PHOTOS BY BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 13

A look from Bernardo Collection. ▲ Bernardo Contrepoint Courts Catalogue Covers

NEW YORK — Contrepoint Industries is finding its casual customers increasingly with catalogues. Grows With Styles from the firm, which specializes in embellished casual apparel, graced the cover of seven catalogues in 2003 and the first quarter of this year, giving a healthy boost to the 35-year- old vendor’s operations. Better Line While the Manhattan-based Contrepoint, with annual revenues of about $10 million, also sells its goods to retailers such as Talbots and J.C. Penney, being featured on the cover of catalogues By Evan Clark such as Soft Surroundings has been a boon. “When you put something on the cover it stands out a lot more and they pay a lot more atten- NEW YORK — Bernardo tion to it,” said Sam Ramani, vice president, noting that a look featured on the cover can sell Fashions sees its chance to twice as well as one inside the catalogue. In addition to the increased exposure, the cover also grab the better sportswear lends a stamp of approval to the look. spotlight, but knows it’s going In the past year, about 70 percent of Contrepoint’s business has been done through cata- to take some work to be a star. logues, up from about 30 percent historically. The 24-year-old firm, based “It’s a different sort of business,” he said. “You’re getting your margins and you’re getting a here, is launching a line of better decent amount of units. You’re kind of getting the best of both worlds.” Pants from Contrepoint in Soft Surroundings. sportswear for fall dubbed Bernardo Collection, set to bow in 100-plus doors in August. Key retailers for the launch in- clude Nordstrom and Dillard’s. Primarily known for its women’s outerwear, Bernardo began producing washable and dryable suede sportswear sepa- rates under the Bernardo label in 2000 and has grown the sportswear portion of its busi- ness, along with private label, to $20 million in annual sales. The addition of Bernardo Collection helps the name evolve into Elements of style more of a lifestyle stance. Rather than using skins for trims and accents, though, the new line uses fabrics such as denim, canvas, twill and cor- duroy, all in stretch, to finish off its leather and suede looks. Wl Wholesale prices for the col- W ool From the marriage of science and style lection range from $20 to $112. With the launch, president come exciting innovations from the makers Stuart Pollack is aiming to make Bernardo recognizable ® from coast to coast. of GORE-TEX fabric— Wool, Cotton, “To create a national brand, you can’t do it without sports- Denim and Liners. wear,” he said. It won’t be an easy road, Ct These elements give designers and though. Better sportswear is a happening area right now, with Cotton lots of competition from more manufacturers new options for creating established houses. Included among the recent launches and fashions that stand up to the demanding relaunches are Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Jones New York Signature, H Hilfiger and tastes of today’s fashion-focused Calvin Klein. “We know this is going to be customers—as well as the demanding a 24-month process,” said Dn Pollack of convincing retailers Denim that the new line has a place. elements of wind, rain, and cold. To help in that process, the firm plans to lay down about $2.5 million in ad spending in stores and national magazines to support the launch. Despite Part chemistry, part alchemy, part mystery, the new lines, Pollack said there is an opening in the bet- use these building blocks in your formula for ter area, since some of the megabrands that anchor the success this season and beyond. floor are having difficulty re- taining market share. “A lot of megabrands are performing below average and are being supported by mark- For more information please call: downs,” he said. “The true evi- dence of gross-margin genera- tion is really derived from 1-800-431-GORE x62618 earning sales per square foot.” Bernardo is looking to Ln leverage its reputation of prof- Liners itability in other categories, such as outerwear. “We’re going to get the ben- efit of the doubt that, if we’re profitable in one area, we’ll be profitable in another,” said Pollack. “We’re trading on that benefit of the doubt. We have to build it brick by brick. We have to prove ourselves step by step. This is not daunting. This is just what needs to be done.” GORE, GORE-TEX, Guaranteed To Keep You Dry and designs are registered trademarks of W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc ©2004 W. L. Gore & Associates, Inc., 1-800-431-GORE, gore-tex.com 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 Expansion Takes Toll on IT Holding Net MILAN — Costs relating to expanding its market position, Starting with the spring-summer 2004 collection, the new grew 1.5 percent compared with the previous year, despite launching and restructuring brands, as well as a one-time GF Ferré brand replaced the Ferré Jeans and GFF labels, a trend of unfavorable exchange rates, said the company, write-off of intangible assets, sent IT Holding into the red which were previously licensed to Marzotto. and accounted for 85.8 percent of sales. Eyewear revenues for the year-end period on sales that rose 6.4 percent at “Our strategy is clear and focused: We are aiming at fell 4.8 percent, accounting for 8.5 percent of sales. The fra- constant exchange rates. expanding and strengthening our core brands, such as grance division grew 84.3 percent, reaching sales of $30.8 The company also told investors that it bought back Ferré, Exté and Malo, and developing our licenses and ac- million, or 25.5 million euros, compared with $16.7 million, 12.5 percent of a bond that was issued in 2002. cessories division,” said Perna. He noted that the group or 13.8 million euros, in 2002. Last week, the group final- At current exchange rates, sales in 2003 gained 2 per- has “caught up” with its competitors in the eyewear divi- ized the sale of this division, ITF SpA, to its partner, cent, rising to $808.5 million, or 668.2 million euros, from sion and its accessories category, which IT Holding Roberto Martone, in order to focus on its core business. $792.9 million, or 655.3 million euros, in 2002, while the launched last year through the new Ittierre Accessories Sales derived from royalties dropped 21.3 percent to loss came in at $88 million, or 72.8 million euros, which division. IT Holding produces and distributes young lines $15.6 million, or 12.9 million euros, as the firm took back compares with a profit of $6 million, or 5 million euros. for Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Roberto Cavalli, among the Ferré licenses and internalized production and dis- Earnings before taxes, interest, depreciation and others. The latest addition this spring was a young line for tribution. The company said this will boost revenues in amortization fell 4.4 percent to $87.6 million, or 72.4 mil- Costume National called C’N’C’ Costume National. the first months of 2004. lion euros, determined, said IT Holding, by unfavorable “We are very pleased with the market’s reaction to Sales of the Ferré brands amounted to $142.3 million, exchange rates and increased advertising costs of $53.3 this line,” said Perna. Perna confirmed speculations or 117.6 million euros, a 3.1 percent growth compared million, or 44.1 million euros, which accounted for 6.6 with last year. percent of sales. While sales in Italy grew 8.8 percent, accounting for Management at IT Holding, parent company of Last year, we made 42.2 percent of revenues, penetration in Europe grew 3.1 Gianfranco Ferré, said it bought back 12.5 percent of a percent to $278.3 million, or 230 million euros. The $242 million, or 200 million euros, bond issued in 2002. “courageous decisions and we strengthening of the euro affected other markets, such as The buyback totaled $30.2 million, or 25 million euros. the U.S. market, which dropped 7.8 percent to $93.2 mil- The bond expires in 2005. are now ready to face 2004. lion, or 77.1 million euros, accounting for 11.5 percent of Tonino Perna, chairman of the group, which also in- sales. Sales in the Far East, including Japan, dropped 11.8 cludes clothing maker Ittierre, Romeo Gigli, Malo and — Tonino Perna, IT Holding” percent to $55.4 million, or 45.8 million euros. This, said Gentryportofino, said in a phone interview the buyback IT Holding, was also caused by a new distributor of the conveys “a strong message to the market. The buyback about his desire to sell the Romeo Gigli and Gentry- Gianfranco Ferré collections in the region. was scheduled long ago. We are a stable group, which portofino businesses. “We are talking to potential buy- Meanwhile, another Italian fashion firm, Fin.part, cares about its financial resources. Last year, we made ers, but nothing has been signed yet,” he said. posted a loss for the year. The firm, which owns Cerruti courageous decisions and we are now ready to face 2004.” Perna went on to say that the company “successfully and Frette, among other brands, more than doubled its Regarding year-end results, Perna attributed IT boosted our products’ penetration in various target mar- net loss to $174.5 million, or 143 million euros, in 2003 Holding’s net loss to the group’s “discipline,” which result- kets and devoted particular attention to reducing consol- from $79.7 million, or 65.3 million euros, in the previous ed in an extraordinary write-off of intangible assets and an idated indebtedness.” As of Dec. 31, 2003, the group’s year. Sales tumbled 11.8 percent to $493.2 million, or amortization and depreciation of $126.2 million, or 104.3 debt dropped to $331.4 million, or 273.9 million euros, 404.3 million euros, from $559 million, or 458.2 million million euros, last year. Investments to expand direct dis- from $364.9 million, or 301.6 million euros, at the end of euros. The company, however, managed to chip away at tribution and restructure the network of Ferré brand 2002, showing an improvement of 9.2 percent. its standing doubt, reducing it 11.7 percent to $433.3 mil- stores, and costs related to the launch of the new GF Ferré “I am confident that the group has all that it takes to pur- lion, or 355.3 million euros, from $490.9 million, or 402.4 brand caused a depreciation of $36.5 million, or 30.2 mil- sue its development path in the year to come,” said Perna. million euros, in the previous year. lion euros, which is up 17.5 percent compared with 2002. IT Holding’s ready-to-wear and accessories division — Luisa Zargani Ferré’s Foray on Madison Consumer Confidence Remains Low NEW YORK — Gianfranco Ferré has put beachwear, leather accessories, eyewear By Jennifer Weitzman said same-store sales are tracking above up a red flagship on Madison Avenue and fragrances. plan while Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said earli- and it’s an enticing new look for the “I am elated that there is now a store NEW YORK — Jobs continued to weigh er in the week that it expects March sales Italian designer. in New York characterized by the new heavily on consumers’ minds, as the at U.S. stores open at least a year to reach Inside, past the bronze castings and concept that already distinguishes the Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence the high end of its forecast for a 4 to 6 per- the tall, two-story windows, are vivid red boutiques in Milan, Paris, Munich, Index, which posted a significant plunge cent gain. In addition, according to the interiors and a glossy red resin stairway Cannes, Capri and Porto Cervo,” Ferré in February, was essentially unchanged in Instinet Research Redbook Average of re- that provides a sense of fluidity. Another said in a statement Tuesday. “I consider March. tail chain sales, month-to-month comps in key element is how the space is organ- it a decisive and strategic move, one that Economists were expecting the monthly March rose 7 percent above February. ized. There are separate areas defined will impact the future of the brand both reading to post another steep drop. According to Diane Swonk, chief econo- by different furniture and decor, yet re- on a global and on a North American However, the index fell just 0.2 points to mist at Bank One Corp., $35 billion in tax lated to each other by “a logic of continu- level.” 88.3 in March from an upwardly revised refunds are expected to be distributed this ity of volumes, forms and movement,” The store, housed in the historic 88.5 last month. The two components of the year. To date, Swonk said about two-thirds the company said. Chesebrough Building erected in 1911 by index moved in opposite directions, with of the refunds are still in the mail. Ferré’s U.S. flagship, which bowed the architect Albert Joseph Bodker, re- the “expectations index” dropping to 91 So when does business at retail tick Saturday at 870 Madison Avenue be- places the Ferré store at 845 Madison from 91.9, and the “present situation up? When companies start hiring, econo- tween 71st and 72nd Streets, encompass- Avenue, opened in 1993. index” inching up to 84.1 from 83.3. mists said, adding it could be as soon as es approximately 3,000 square feet of re- In addition, Ferré plans to renovate The Consumer Confidence Index, the second half of 2004. Swonk said the tail space and has two levels. It is pro- his Rodeo Drive boutique in Beverly which is a representative sample of 5,000 preconditions for a sustained turnaround jected to reach $10 million in sales vol- Hills at the beginning of 2005 and the U.S. households, is at its lowest level in employment growth are in place: there ume in “a medium period of time,” ac- boutique in Bal Harbour Shops, in Bal since last October. The reading follows a is top-line revenue growth, higher profits, cording to Enrico Di Muccio, president Harbour, Fla. in 2006 to reflect the new 9 point decline last month, which repre- improved production growth, higher back- of Gianfranco Ferré USA. concept. Gianfranco Ferré, a division of sented the biggest since February 2003, order logs and a pickup in temporary em- The store sells all Ferré products, in- IT Holding, also operates a GF Ferré just before the start of the Iraq invasion, ployment hires. cluding his women’s and men’s ready-to- boutique in Mandalay Place, Las Vegas. when the index dropped 14 points. “We are just waiting for the second wear collections, as well as lingerie, — David Moin “It looks like the index is stagnating at shoe to drop. We have economic growth, current levels after the February drop, now we need jobs,” Swonk said. which was quite significant,” said Ken However, for now, consumers’ opti- Peng, an analyst for Citigroup. “The mism about future conditions continues biggest drag is still unemployment, and to wane. Those expecting business condi- until we see solid evidence of an improve- tions to improve in the next six months ment in employment and payroll, this dipped to 19.3 percent from 19.5 percent. drag isn’t going to go away.” Consumers expecting conditions to wors- Lynn Franco, director of the board’s en was unchanged at 9.6 percent. consumer research center, said the month- Consumers’ assessment of current con- ly reading highlighted concerns over the ditions is more favorable today than last lack of jobs, which clouded the short-term month. Those claiming business conditions outlook. “While consumers are saying the improved increased to 20.7 percent from overall business conditions were better in 19.3 percent. Those claiming conditions March, they also claim the labor market have worsened was almost unchanged at continues to be a sore spot. Looking ahead, 23.3 percent. it is the labor market that is causing this However, after improving in January dampening in expectations.” and February, the consumers’ view of job Still, economists agree it doesn’t mean opportunities worsened slightly in March. that consumers won’t continue to spend. According to the survey, the percentage of Franco said tax refund checks will consumers describing jobs as being plen- help spending from falling off too much. tiful edged up in March to 14.7 percent But she warned rising prices at the pump from February’s 14.5 percent. But the could impact retail. share of those polled claiming jobs are Still, there’s been evidence of strong hard to get climbed to 30 percent from

PHOTO GREG KESSLER BY spring sales. Target Corp., for example, 28.9 percent. WelcomeTomorrow to

where fashion and technology converge

WWDTech In Depth Section II: May 12, 2004 Close: April 28

Creativity comes in many forms. This section will provide retailers and manufacturers with new ways to stand out in a crowded field by giving them the knowledge they need to run their businesses better and the latest ideas on how to reach customers with the right product at the right time.

CIOs and CEOs who control information technology spending in the apparel and beauty industries will turn to the information in this section to help increase their bottom line.

For more information, please contact Tia Potter, Director, Technology & Financial Services, at 212-630-4844, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 Prada Leaps Ahead 33 Percent Despite Jil’s Return, Continued from page 2 Real Estate International Srl, which will acquire Sander Stays in Red including the land, cost $83.3 million. At the time, a number of Prada-owned real estate assets by the Miuccia Prada said the store represented the end of the year for about $116.8 million; the sale By Courtney Colavita rency basis, sales fell 2.6 per- company’s latest approach to the fashion and re- of a 55 percent stake in Church’s, the English cent to $164.9 million, or 135.1 tail market, providing a place to experiment with footwear brand, to the Swiss Equinox MILAN — Last year may have million euros. new ideas and products and for “interaction” be- Investments; an agreement to sell some real es- marked the return of Jil Sander “With this difficult year be- tween the store and its customer. The first Epi- tate for about $157.3 million, or 130 million euros, to the company that bears her hind us, we have signs 2004 is center store opened in SoHo here in 2001. to Italian property company Beni Stabili, space name, but it wasn’t enough to off to a good start thanks to Mrs. Last month, however, Prada said it was going to Prada will now rent; an inventory reduction, and bring the Prada-owned fashion Sander’s return as creative di- sell an 80 percent stake in the Tokyo Epicenter store, a tax rebate for a total of $181.5 million, or 150 house out of the red. rector,” Bernhard Wirmer, chief controlling the balance and beginning to pay rent on million euros. Jil Sander Group widened its financial officer of Jil Sander the unit. Prada said it was expecting to net about “I think the expected 30 percent drop by the net loss to $34.6 million in 2003 Group, said in a statement. $108.9 million, or 90 million euros, this year from the end of 2004 is realistic if the company maintains from $32 million in the previous “Orders and sales for the sale and saw it as a means to reduce its debt. this level of investments and does not venture into year. Dollar figures have been spring-summer and fall-winter Prada said on Tuesday that it reduced its debt particular initiatives,” said Andrea Paladini, lux- converted from the euro at cur- collections have been very by 30 percent last year, bringing it down to $816.7 ury goods analyst at Centrosim. Paladini said he rent exchange. In local currency strong.” million, or 675 million euros. Prada said it plans “still believes a listing would be the most useful Jil Sander reported a net loss of The statement went on to say to further reduce its debt to less than $363 mil- step for the group.” Given the market conditions, 28.4 million euros versus 26.3 that Sander’s return was “espe- lion, or 300 million euros, by the end of 2004. The however, Paladini said he doesn’t think “these are million euros in 2002. cially important” for the compa- debt, incurred with its acquisitions of such com- the best conditions for a listing and would wait at Group revenues, hurt by un- ny’s “overall strategy, image and panies as Jil Sander and Helmut Lang in the late least until 2005.” favorable exchange rates and brand equity.” Nineties, stood at $1.21 billion at the end of 2002. After postponing an IPO three times, Bertelli the residual effects of the SARS After a three-year absence, Other initiatives last year included a joint real recently hinted that this year may still prove diffi- epidemic, slid 9.4 percent to Sander returned to the fashion estate spin-off venture with Aedes SpA to create cult for a listing. $153.4 million, or 125.7 million house last May. Her first collec- euros, from $169.4 million, or tion, which was well received by 138.8 million euros in 2002. The both the press and retailers, company said on a constant cur- bowed this spring. Sales Rise, Net Slides at Tod’s Benetton Profitable PARIS — Heavy investments in cided with a “difficult global its store network contributed to economy,” but that the company a 28.2 percent drop in net in- is well positioned for a rebound come at Tod’s Group last year to in spending. “Initial signs of a After Exiting Sports $31.4 million, or 25.8 million recovery exist, confirmed by a euros, versus $43.8 million, or positive sales trend in the first NEW YORK — Benetton Group lion euros from 2 billion euros a 35.9 million euros, a year ago. part of this year,” he said in a SpA returned to posting full- year ago. Expressed in dollars, The Italian maker of luxury statement. year profits after excising the however, a surging euro helped leather goods, shoes and appar- The company said compara- sports equipment business that total revenues grow 11.7 percent el added 24 stores in 2003 and ble-store sales increased 4.6 pushed it to its first full-year to $2.1 billion from $1.88 billion blamed higher labor and real percent in the first three loss in fiscal 2002. in the prior year. estate costs for the earnings de- months of 2004, excluding cur- The Ponzano, Italy-based ca- “Consolidated revenues cline. However, sales advanced rency impact. sual apparel manufacturer re- showed continued staying power by 3.7 percent to $459.5 million, Tod’s said it invested $58.8 ported fiscal 2003 net income of in the clothing division and a or 377 million euros, versus $443 million, or 48.2 million euros, 108 million euros against a loss large drop in the sports sector million, or 363.4 million euros, a last year, with almost half of that of 10 million euros last year. In associated with the disposal of year ago. Dollar figures are con- amount earmarked for its net- dollars, Benetton’s earnings the sports equipment brands, verted from euros at current ex- work of directly owned stores, were $122.2 million versus a loss which took place in the first half change. with the balance going to equip- of $9.5 million a year ago. of the year,” said Benetton in a Stripping out the negative im- ment, logistics and increasing Figures have been converted at statement. Indeed, adjusting for pact of currency exchange, con- production capacity. average exchange for the corre- the exit of the sports business solidated sales growth stood at Currently, the firm operates sponding periods. and currency exchange, the com- 8.1 percent for the period ending 99 boutiques for its Tod’s, Hogan Excluding charges related to pany said net revenues gained Dec. 31. The company did not and Fay brands, four of which the disposal of the sports equip- 1.2 percent, while sales of casual give quarterly breakdowns. have bowed already this year. ment business, as well as other wear advanced 2.1 percent. Earnings before interest and Diego Della Valle Tod’s said investments would be items, net income would have im- Operationally, Benetton navi- taxes for the year declined 30.9 sustained, but did not give fur- proved 8.6 percent to 139 million gated the restructuring of its busi- percent to $53.3 million, or 43.7 Diego Della Valle, chairman ther details. euros from 128 million euros, or ness smoothly, as gross margin as a million euros, versus $77.1 mil- and chief executive officer at Shares in Tod’s went up 2 per- $157.3 million versus $121 million percentage of sales remained lion, or 63.3 million euros, a Tod’s, acknowledged that the cent to close at $35.12, or 28.81 — an increase of 30 percent be- steady at 43.6 percent, and operat- year ago. firm’s investment strategy coin- euros, on the Milan Bourse. cause of the weaker dollar. ing income actually increased frac- Total revenues for the year tionally to 12.5 percent of sales. declined 6.7 percent to 1.86 bil- — Dan Burrows Euro, Taxes Bite Into Marzotto Profits Wanda Ferragamo Wins MILAN — A strong euro cut rate, the company said sales 628 million euros, in 2002. into Marzotto’s 2003 sales, inched ahead 1.4 percent. Although first-quarter figures while an increased Italian tax Improving conditions at have yet to be released, Marzotto Highest Honor in Italy rate penalized its net profits. Valentino, Hugo Boss and its said for the first two months of The fashion and textile com- textile division enabled Marz- 2004, sales on a constant curren- MILAN — Wanda Ferragamo has world. It was unexpected.” pany, which owns Hugo Boss and otto to increase its operating cy basis fell 8.6 percent to $426.1 been awarded the title Cavaliere The Cavaliere di Gran Croce Valentino, said net consolidated profit 6.4 percent to $161.5 mil- million, or 351 million euros, di Gran Croce, the highest honor is Italy’s highest honor for out- profits dropped 22.7 percent to lion, or 133 million euros, from from $466.2 million, or 384 mil- of the Order of Merit of the standing work in literature, art, $70.4 million in 2003 from $91.1 $151.8 million, or 125 million lion euros, in the same period Italian Republic. economy, military achievements million in the previous year. euros, in 2002. last year. However, the company Ferragamo was chosen by and humanitarian works. Dollar figures have been convert- Apparel sales represented said sales were flat on an adjust- Italy’s President of the Republic, In 1986, it was conferred to ed from the euro at current ex- 84.3 percent of company rev- ed currency basis. Based on Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, who hon- Valentino, while Martin change as Marzotto reported net enues, with Valentino in partic- early results, Marzotto said it an- ored her decades-long work at Scorsese received it in 2002. income of 58 million euros ver- ular registering strong growth in ticipates significant sales growth the helm of the Florentine luxu- Wanda Ferragamo, now 84, sus 75 million euros in 2002. The 2003. Sales at the Roman fash- this year in the U.S., China and ry goods company, through took the company’s reins in 1960, company said an increased tax ion house rose 11.4 percent to Japan. However Europe, which she strengthened ties be- after the death of her husband, rate coupled with the absence of $183.3 million, or 151 million Marzotto’s main market, contin- tween Italy and the U.S. and pro- Salvatore Ferragamo, who found- extraordinary income, which in euros, in 2003. On an adjusted ues to show vulnerability. moted Italian production. ed the company in 1927. During Italy is subject to reduced taxa- currency basis, a Marzotto The company said that, ex- “It was an honor to receive the her tenure, Ferragamo, who is tion, caused the slide in profits. spokesman said Valentino sales cluding non-comparable busi- highest Italian award, to which supported by her six children, On a constant currency rose more than 20 percent. nesses and currency fluctua- I’m particularly attached to be- turned the footwear company basis, group sales fell 2.5 per- Marzotto said it was success- tion, it expects a sales increase cause it concerns my Italy and be- into a global fashion player with cent to $2.12 billion, or 1.74 bil- ful in chipping away at its debt in 2004. It also forecasts an im- cause it comes from our presi- a product lineup that includes lion euros, in 2003 from $2.17 in 2003, reducing it 4.8 percent provement in operating margins dent,” said Wanda Ferragamo in women’s and men’s apparel, fra- billion, or 1.78 billion euros, in to $725.7 million, or 598 million and in further debt reduction. an interview. “It was given to me grances and eyewear as well as 2002. On an adjusted currency euros, from $762.5 million, or — C.C. for the image that Salvatore leathergoods and footwear. Ferragamo represents in the — Alessandra Ilari WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 17

couple of immediate concerns. He said there is a serious question about what impact a U.S., China Seek Intra-Industry Coalition preferential duty-free program for China would have on other existing programs with Africa By Kristi Ellis but would require the use of U.S. expired while the delegation was Augustine Tantillo, Washing- and the Caribbean, and a pend- fabric. in China and no agreement was ton coordinator of the American ing free-trade deal with Central WASHINGTON — U.S. industry “One of our thought process- reached on a more comprehen- Manufacturing Trade Action America. Secondly, Tantillo said executives who participated in a es is to find a way to use U.S. sive quota deal. As a result, a 7.5 Coalition, still supports a com- he is concerned that Customs delegation just back from China fabric in China,” said Birkins. would not be able to enforce the hope to create a U.S.-Chinese “That would satisfy both sides.” agreement with China and en- textile and apparel industry A large U.S. textile coalition We didn’t make giant steps, but we sure the country was only using group to find solutions to the po- had been pushing American U.S. yarn and fabric. litically explosive issues of “un- trade officials to negotiate a made“ half steps in terms of starting “I’m not rejecting anything fair competition” and American comprehensive quota agreement out of hand without listening to jobs lost to Chinese competition. with China that would restrain to close the gap. the proposal,” he said. “But what U.S. job losses and a balloon- imports even after quotas are it does is, in essence, grant the ing $124 billion trade deficit with lifted on all other WTO coun- — Rodney Birkins,” J.C. Penney Purchasing Corp. importing community many China have become a key issue in tries. However, a 90-day consul- more options to pit producers the presidential campaign and tation period over quota safe- percent growth cap will remain prehensive quota agreement against each other on a global prompted a Democratic hearing guards that the U.S. imposed on in place on imports of knit fabric, and said a yarn-forward propos- basis if they can get the same on Capitol Hill on Monday. It is three Chinese apparel and tex- dressing gowns and robes and al would require a significant zero duty in China that they can also a lightning-rod issue among tile categories at the end of 2003 bras from China until Dec. 23. amount of review and raises a get in Honduras.” textile executives, retailers, im- porters and apparel manufactur- ers bracing for the phaseout of apparel and textile quotas in nine months. China is expected to be- come a global powerhouse at the expense of apparel and textile workers around the globe once quotas are removed by a World Trade Organization mandate. Against that backdrop, U.S. textile, retail and apparel manu- facturing executives met with high-level Chinese government officials and representatives of six Chinese trade associations in Beijing Friday and Saturday to continue the dialogue on what many claim is unfair competi- tion by China and the devastat- ing impact on U.S. companies. Grant Aldonas, undersecre- tary for international trade at the Commerce Department, led the delegation with several ex- ecutives, including financier Wilbur Ross, chairman of the International Textile Group, which was formed by the merg- er of Burlington Industries and Cone Mills; Rodney Birkins, di- rector of strategic sourcing at J.C. Penney Purchasing Corp., and Keith Crisco, president of Asheboro Elastics. “There was a fairly open ex- change and dialogue,” said Birkins in a phone interview. “We didn’t make giant steps, but we made half steps in terms of starting to close the gap on the issues at hand.” Ross, in a statement, said no conclusions were reached, but noted that U.S. executives invited the Chinese to a “near-term fol- low-up meeting in Washington.” “Discussions included mutual trade and investment opportuni- ties, intellectual property rights and alternative scenarios for the industries when quotas are elim- inated per the WTO Jan. 1, 2005, schedule,” Ross said. Birkins said the top priority for China, which is in the midst of a manufacturing boom, is job cre- ation. He added that it will be dif- ficult to counterbalance China’s need for employment with the desire to create and preserve jobs in the U.S. “We have a lot of capital-in- tensive textile mills in the U.S. that are not running at capacity and any type of solution needs to almost satisfy the two compet- ing elements,” he said. One of the proposals being considered, according to Birkins, is establishing a yarn-forward or fabric-forward rule of origin for China. A strict yarn-forward rule of origin, in this case, would re- quire the use of U.S. yarn and fabric, whereas a fabric-forward rule of origin would allow the use of foreign yarns and fibers, WWDCollege Issue date: April 15, 2004 Close: April 1 Invaluable Access.

A ground-breaking issue with a direct pipeline into the minds of college students — information industry decision-makers can’t find anywhere else.

If college is your market, this is the issue you can’t afford to miss.

Not only will WWD editors survey attitudes, purchasing habits and spending power of college students across the country, but college students become WWD editors to fill this issue with raw material on what’s hot and what’s not on campus.

Bonus distribution: 20,000 college students through college bookstores and sororities.

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, Sr. VP, Group Publisher, at 212/630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 19

VP of Operations ACCOUNT MANAGER SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA LINEA PELLE, INC. Organic wellness beauty company seeks experienced Aleading LA based belt Co. seeks a highly motivated Operations Manager for an emerging growth company. individual to coordinate Consumer products (preferably beauty) background, product development, samples excellent negotiating and management skills, financial and production in our LA office. savvy and entrepreneurial personality required. Requires experience in product SALARY + BENEFITS + STOCK OPTIONS coordination with overseas factories, client management Email: [email protected] or Fax: (800) 413-2584 and product development. Some travel required. Experience in leather accessories a plus but not required. Competitive salary and benefits package. Please fax or email resume: Fax: {310} 231-9949 Email: [email protected] PRODUCTION MONIQUE ASSISTANT Fast-growing LA knitwear LHUILLIER company seeks hardworking Fitter individual to coordinate Full-time Fitter needed for production. Also, responsible our Beverly Hills Store. for managing day-to-day Must have Bridal and/or operations of vibrant design Designer experience. Fax Resume to: studio. Minimum 2 years {310} 550-3394 experience. Must be highly organized, methodical and TOP DOLLAR FOR willing to take initiative. RETURNS,IR’S OR Strong computer skills and CLOSEOUTS fluency in Spanish a plus. Please fax resume to: WALT ADAMS INC (310) 358-9031 T:800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784 [email protected] APPAREL & ACCESSORY BUYERS SAN DIEGO CORPORATE OFFICE LOCATION HAVE IT ALL!! Live, work, and build your career all in an expanding, successful, and profitable retail company located Merchandising Professional in San Diego, California! Charlotte Russe and Rampage Men’s Wear Mfr. (L.A. Location) Stores are currently seeking qualified Buyer candidates with Men’s Wear Manufacturer seeks a career minded individual the following qualifications: to be a part of its Merchandising Logistics Team. Duties · 3+ years Buyer level Junior fashion Apparel a/o Accessory include planning through sales analysis, inventory manage- ment, and coordination w/internal departments. Individual Buying experience should have 2 - 3 years planning / buying experience. Must · Excellent vendor relationship building and negotiation skills be detail oriented, analytical, and organized. Excellent Listed in Forbes 2002 list of "Best Small Companies", communication skills required. College degree a plus. Opportunities for growth! Please Fax resumes to: Charlotte Russe offers tremendous career and promotional opportunities to our talented and qualified employees! 213-623-3226 THREE DOTS GROW AS WE GROW! Fax your resume to: 858 875-0326, SALES REPRESENTATIVE or mail to: 4645 Morena Blvd., SD, CA 92117, TODAY! Seeking an exceptional person to join our corporate LA showroom sales team. You have a strong fashion sense, 1-2 yrs experience Apply online at www.charlotte-russe.com working with contemporary specialty stores and an entrepre- neurial spirit to grow existing accounts and develop new business. Computer skills essential - expertise in ACT and AIMS beneficial. SCOTT-THALER ASSOCIATES Please respond via fax to: (213) 627-0499 or NATIONWIDE EXECUTIVE RECRUITERS Email: [email protected] •VP SALES-Young Missy Contemporary (L.A.) •SALES MANAGER-Girls / Tweens (L.A.) •DESIGNERS & DESIGN DIRECTOR(s) - Missy & Men’s (Midwest) •SALES EXEC / MERCHANDISER - Junior Sportswear (Majors / L.A.) •TEXTILE DESIGNER(s)-U4IA - Moderate Missy (Midwest) •BUYER & MERCHANDISING DIR. - Moderate to Better Missy Apparel •WEST COAST ROAD REP - Young Men’s Contemporary Sportswear (L.A.) Don’t just SETTLE for a job, when you can have a CAREER! Attn: Mary Oliva Fax: 213-312-9324, Tel: 800-968-1562 Email [email protected] / http://www.scott-thaler.com 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004

253 West 35th St. Between 7th and 8th Aves. AMAZING JOBS! Leading Intimate Apparel Co. Store &/or Bsmt Seeks DIRECTORS Baby Jersey - Baby Rib Store 2550 sf, 19’6’ ceil ht. *Design - Head Design and Tech Areas French Terry - Lycra+reg - 6 Brands Jersey + Rib Lycra + reg BSMNT 6100 sf, 11’ ceiling ht. All air cond. Up to 800 amps avail. *Creative - "think outside the box" type 718-389-8902 to take brands to the next level. CALL OWNER 212-685-1514 Must have 10+ years in intimate SUPPLEX*TASLAN Proven sales relationships? apparel, 4 year degree in Fashion Largest Supplier of IN-STOCK Woven Solid Fabrics. Available in all Finishes. Ready to become a fashion entrepreneur? *Assistants - Ladies Sportswear pro- Domestic/Export www.fabrics.com duction, excel, trim Venture Textiles 1-800-4-SUPPLEX *Tech Design - cut-n-sew knits, multi- If yes to both, go to www.rhythmfashion.com tasked, fast paced-35K *Sales-cut-n-sew ladies private label chains *Sales - sportswear, branded, depart- ment stores, junior/missy/plus Liquidation of NY’s Commercial Dye House [email protected] Finest Clothing & Offering Washing/Dyeing of Knitting Fabrics, Linens, Towels, Napkins etc. ACCOUNT MANAGER Accessories at LOW PRICES! Call: (718) 937-2900 LINEA PELLE, INC. 45,000 Sq. Ft. of hanging women’s, A leading LA based belt Co. seeks a men’s & children’s upscale & high-end highly motivated individual to coordinate mixed brand name clothing & accesso- Cut/Sew/Ship product development, samples and ries from New York’s finest stores. All Small or big lots. We do markers and production in our LA office. Requires quantities. Large piece good deals! samples too. Call 973-266-0901 experience in product coordination Call Clarence: 800-521-5999 with overseas factories, client management and product development. Some travel OFF PRICE BRANDED APPAREL required. Experience in leather accessories 50-70% off Original Wholesale. Women’s, a plus but not required. Competitive Men’s & Kids. Warehouse appts avail. salary and benefits package. Contact Marsha @ 516-239-8111 BEN ELIAS Please fax or email resume: Fax: {310} 231-9949 500 Seventh Ave., Suite 1040 Sewing Equip. Available New York, New York Samplemaker, 30 yrs in business, has Email: [email protected] P: 646.312.8918 equipment to share. 2 minutes from F: 201.712.0426 Manhattan. Call Mariana: 718-472-9063. Admin. Assistant Apparel Staffing, Ltd. JOBBER/EXPORTER Fast growing Women’s Contemporary *PRODUCTION*DESIGN* We buy better goods. All categories, Apparel Co. seeks upbeat Assistant for *TECH DESIGN*GRAPHIC DESIGN* including fabrics. Immediate $$. order entry, customer service, style data- *MERCHANDISING* Please call 212-290-2336 base maintenance, and general office / See career listings @www.apparelstaffing.com Miami Public Warehouse production help. Excel and Quickbooks Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 Located near airport helpful. Growth opportunity. Fax resume: Servicing the apparel Industry. 212-239-2409 Recieves your products/storage/ and ship direct to retailers. Contact Joe/Paul (305) 691-9400 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ASSISTANT DESIGNER Major apparel co. seeks asst. mens PRODUCTIONS Admin Assistant sleepwear/ boxers designer. Duties in- Samples and patterns full servcie shop Major sptswr importer seeks a motivated clude all aspects of line development: to the trade. Fine fast work. person for fast paced production prints, plaids, presentation boards, 212-869-2699. department. Must be computer literate, spec sheets. All-over-print exp. a plus. highly organized and detail oriented with Must be detail-oriented w/ excellent strong communication skills. Garment communication skills. Exp. w/ MAC BRIDAL CO 4 SALE experience a plus. Employee friendly with Photoshop & Illustrator. Great work Nationally known couture bridesmaid full company benefits. Room to grow! environment. EOE. and bridal company for sale. All seri- Please fax resume to: JM @ 212-944-2867 Email resume w/ salary req. to: ous inquiries fax to: 212-427-6123 [email protected]

ADMIN. ASSISTANT NANETTE LEPORE ASSISTANT Seeking a motivated receptionist to work in a fast paced environ. Will be DESIGNER New Jersey children’s Sportswear Co. 36th St betw. B’way & 7th Ave primarily responsible for answering RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH phones. Must be computer savvy, flexi- needs assistant to designer. Must be Full Floor 6,000 SF - sublease able to sketch, use Photoshop & Illustrator, Short Term, extension may be possible Exclusive to the Fashion Industry ble and have 1-2 yrs. office exp in the fashion industry. Great opp to learn have organizational skills and be Attended lobby, Private Bathrooms Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 capable of undertaking design projects. Tenant controlled A/C and grow within an exciting company! Winoker Realty Nancy Bottali,Accessory 212-213-6386 LADIES Fax resume : 212-594-0038 or email Fax resume to {973} 836-0271. David Kahane 212-519-2018 Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 [email protected] Fax: 609-448-8248 TECHNICAL DESIGNER www.raskinexecsearch.com Leading ladies outerwear Assistant Designer co. looking for highly organ- Admin. 509 5TH AVE. (btwn 31&32 Sts) ized and detailed individual Required 3-4 yrs+ exp in high-end RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Design Room Assistant contemporary Women’s Wear. Must 488 7th Ave Updating/Phone Interviews w/3-5 years exp. in techni- Accessory company looking for a have strong technical as well as sketch- 3000 Sq. Ft ing ability combined with creative 1 BR. SHOWROOMS PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. cal design. Must have great bright, organized recent grad with OFFICE/SHOWROOM 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 verbal and written communi- fashion background (experience a plus ideas, detail oriented, hardworking & LIVE / WORK 56’ of Show Window on 5th Ave. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 but not necessary) w/ good computer & self motivated. Photoshop and Illustra- From $1550-$1850, 400-600SF Pvt Bathroom, Pantry, etc. www.resumesforfashion.com cation skills. Exp w/ prepar- communications skills. You must be a tor a must. Fax resume to: 212 302 4332 Wd. flrs, hi ceils, April Occup No Retail ing tech. paks to overseas self-starter that can multi-task as you 212-629-8694 M-F 10a-6p No Fee ALSO: 785 Sq. Ft. factories + pre-production will be handling many functions. Some design & merchandising skills a Penthouse Showroom 36th St. 5000 ft CALL OWNER (212) 685-1514 fittings. Please e-mail all re- Assistant Designer or inquire: 307 5th Ave, 17th Floor plus. Opportunity for growth. Skylights Wood floor Great light sumes to: Fax resume to 212-643-8464. Seeking a creative and motivated 37th St. 7500 ft Full Floor [email protected] design assistant with a minimum of 2 Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 FREELANCE DESIGNER years experience. Must be highly Junior, Missy or organized, detail oriented and have a solid understanding of garment con- Showroom / Office / Retail Childrenswear, Excellent Admin Since 1967 Please call 212-273-9650 struction. Must be able to complete pre- We find you space-best deal-no fee W-I-N-S-T-O-N sentation boards as well as technical Sublet 525 7th/ready sketches. Garment Center Real Estate APPAREL STAFFING Candidate must be MAC proficient in Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Illustrator and Photoshop. Please DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION forward your resume to the Human SPACE YOU THOUGHT SUPERBA NECKWEAR (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Resoures Dept: YOU COULDN’T AFFORD Well-rounded, energetic, creative [email protected] Luxury 150 W 30 St 12,000 approx sf 212-904-1238 (Fax) Call David Berger CHINA-QUOTA FREE thinker with merchandising and Bernstein R.E. 212-594-1414 Ext 306 All categories incl cotton jeans. High textile design skills to join our ALLOCATION quality, large vol., FOB or LDP. Call Scott 212-719-2450/Victor 323-266-7711 product merchandising team. ASSISTANT Responsibilities: preparation of ASSISTANT SPORTSWEAR IMPORT /DOMESTIC PRODUCTION product presentations. Working Rapidly growing apparel company Full Service Prod’n: samples/cut/sew/ship seeks an individual to assist our Head DESIGNER for Woven, Denim Tops & Bottoms with fabric and neckwear. Product Allocator with all customer fulfillment Established apparel company seeks Hi-Quality; Sm-Lrg Vol; Fast & Reliable. development and design. Assist- orders as well as tracking shipments. Assistant Designer for updated moder- FOB or LDP; Call Victor Lee: 917-748-9946 ing in preparation of merchandise Responsible for packing labels and ate sportswear co. Qualified candidate WORLD HOLDING INC. creating work orders using Excel and will have experience in collections as 212-221-9570 / 212-560-0693 plans and product manuals. AS400. Coordinate customer order well as key items. Individual must be E-mail: [email protected] Opportunity to grow. process with warehouse. Excellent self-motivated with ability in print telephone skills and proficient in direction and silhouette trends. [email protected] e-mail programs. Candidate must be able to thrive in Pattern - Production - Samples 212-401-2459 Fax fast paced environment/ All applicants Please fax your resume to: 212-869-5242 EOE must be experienced in woven, soft Full - Fast - Quality fabrics and full fashion sweaters. 212-575-1001 Please Fax resume: 212-302-4193

Planners ASSISTANT TECHNICAL PATTERN/SAMPLES Children’s wear mfg has oppty in Planning Dept. Looking for DESIGNER Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast KIDS OUTERWEAR work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Sr. Mrch. Planner & Financial Seeking strong individual with 2-3 yrs. Planner. Apparel a must. in the industry. Must have experience PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Email resumes to: in measuring garments, fit evaluations and communicating detailed reports to PRODUCTIONS [email protected] manufacturers. Should also be proficient All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. or fax 212-736-1753 in Color Matters and Microsoft Office. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Please fax resume to: (212) 997-9188 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 21

DESIGNER (Apparel) A rapidly growing consumer mail order company with an entrepreneurial spirit is seeking a highly qualified candidate to join our team as an Apparel Designer in Salt Lake City. Candidate will be re- sponsible for the creative design, devel- opment and coordination of all aspects of the women’s apparel division, under the direction of the Design Director. Excellent communication skills, both verbal and written. This position re- quires a Bachelors Degree or equivalent; or 5 years related experience and/or on the job training; or equivalent combi- nation or education and experience in fashion design. Catalog experience required. Proficient in Freeboarders Design and Product Manager systems, with sketch and illustration abilities. We offer a competitive wage and excel- lent benefits package including 401K and product discounts. For consideration, send cover letter and resume with salary requirements to: Sundance Catalog Company Human Resources Manager, 3865 W. 2400 S. Salt Lake City, UT 84120

Fax: (801) 978-3293 Email: [email protected] NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE.

Designer FASHION JEWELRY DESIGNER Fast paced prestigious jewelry compa- ny is seeking a highly organized & detail-oriented jewelry designer with 3-5 years experience. Must have high taste level and a range of capability. The ideal candidate must be able to conceptualize new product, produce mechanical drawings, render new designs and execute samples. Must be ateam player with an understanding of jewelry design, fashion jewelry raw materials and manufacturing techniques. Excellent benefits & great work environment. Fax resume & salary requirements to 212-966-1238

Designer/Merchandiser Junior/Plus Import Sportswear Co. seeks highly motivated, creative and detail oriented individual. Must have at least 5 years of experience in Import Assist Prod’n Coord wovens. Fax resume to: (212) 575-5311 Major sptswr importer seeks highly organized and detail oriented indiv with outstanding communication and computer skills, to work in a high ener- DESIGNER/ gy prod’n dept. Knowledge of Mandar- in is a plus. 1 year experience Employee MERCHANDISER friendly with full company benefits! Nat’l/ brand missy sportswear co. seeks Please fax resume to: exp’d person to design contemporary/ JM @ 212-944-2867 moderate missy, petite, related sepa- rates. Must have 5-7 yrs exp. and a Asst Designer/Technical strong background in woven bottoms, Fast paced private label cut & sew knit skirts, and jackets. Must have great company seeks indiv. to assist and color, print & pattern sense, and be a provide tech/development for design team player. Position in Boston Area. team. Resp. incl prod. packages, Excellent benefits & salary. technical sketching, fabric & trim Fax resumes to HR: 617-332-3260 research & org. Must be detailed oriented. Fax resume: 212-730-0416 NewNew Products Products Marketing Marketing Buyer BuyerII ASST OPERATION MGR $50K Well estab Accessory Co seeks exp’d Designer RRapidlyapidly growing growing and and nationally nationally recognized recognized personal personal care care and and assistant to manage the smooth flow of Private label cut & sew knit co. seeks cosmeticscosmetics company company is isseeking seeking a aresourceful resourceful and and experienced experienced Buyer Buyer costing, purchasing & sourcing. talented creative, hardworking indiv. Liaison w/all Pvt Label accounts. to join our team. Candidate must be withwith well-honed well-honed negotiating negotiating skills skills and and an an eye eye for for design design to to become become a a Fax Resume Attn Cindi 201-894-1186 organized, able to multi-task, and membermember of of our our highly highly visible visible Product Product Development Development Team. Team. The The Burt’s Burt’s or e-mail [email protected]. think out of the box. 3+ yrs exp. Fax BeesBees Product Product Development Development Team Team has has an an outstanding outstanding track track record record of of 212-947-3399 x16 resume: (212) 730-0416 creatingcreating award-winning award-winning and and innovative innovative consumer consumer products. products. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Better womens import manufacturer DESIGNERS, TECH DESIGNERS hishis high high profile profile position position reports reports directly directly to to the the Director Director of of of woven shirts and sportswear seeks: Production, Sourcing, Buyers TT Planners, hundreds of jobs! CreativeCreative Services Services and and Founder Founder of of Burt’s Burt’s Bees. Bees. You You will will be be responsible responsible Associate Designer with Contact [email protected] forfor sourcing sourcing packaging, packaging, components, components, and and accessories accessories for for product product CAD Experience launcheslaunches that that meet meet the the company’s company’s aesthetic, aesthetic, quality, quality, and and profit profit Candidate will work w/ Design Director, be organized & able to work with a requirements;requirements; evaluating evaluating supplier supplier capabilities capabilities and and negotiating negotiating price price diverse customer base. Responsibilities DESIGNER WOVENS andand terms; terms; working working with with Purchasing, Purchasing, Quality, Quality, and and Manufacturing Manufacturing include sketching/line plans/ presenta- Design & execute contemporary, pri- personnelpersonnel to to meet meet specifications specifications and and timelines; timelines; and and identifying identifying new new tions /fabric development. Experience vate label in dynamic, team-planning with Primavision graphics/weave & environ. Must have 6 yrs. min. exp. technologytechnology and and packaging packaging advancements advancements that that promote promote the the Company’s Company’s Color Matters 32 is A+. Photoshop & w/eye for print, color & trend. Will be environmentalenvironmental goals. goals. Illustrator experience is needed. CAD DESIGNER CUTTER proactive in fabric development & Please fax resume with salary Fast paced importer of women’s Experience in fine fabrics follow-up w/ overseas offices. Strong QQualifiedualified candidates candidates must must have have experience experience working working with with domestic domestic requirements to: (212) 328-1230 sleepwear/intimate apparel seeks CAD and some grading. communication, organizational skills Designer with a degree in fashion Call 973-471-7444 or Fax 973-471-7410 necess. as well as, ability to flat sketch andand international international suppliers; suppliers; excellent excellent negotiating, negotiating, interpersonal, interpersonal, and and Better womens import manufacturer w/knowledge of garment construction of woven shirts and sportswear seeks: design and at least 3 yrs of working organizationalorganizational skills; skills; ability ability to to identify identify packaging packaging compatible compatible with with experience. Must be well organized, & fit. Must be computer literate, up to Data Entry date portfolio req. for interview. Large brand’sbrand’s image; image; strong strong initiative; initiative; and and an an ability ability to to multi-task multi-task under under Technical Designer detail oriented, technical as well as Required. Must have EDI and garment creative and proficient in Photoshop public co. w/ benefits. FAX resume: demandingdemanding deadlines. deadlines. We We require require a aBA/BS BA/BS Degree Degree in in Marketing Marketing or or Experienced in wovens with a strong industry experience. private label background. Must be and Adobe Illustrator. We offer a great Fax Resume: 212-382-3623 212-556-5431 BusinessBusiness Administration Administration with with 8 8years years related related experience. experience. flexible and well organized to work with working environment and a salary multiple accounts. Responsibilities based on experience. Fax resume to 212-448-0926 e eoffer offer an an attractive attractive salary salary and and benefits benefits package. package. Interested Interested include taking fit notes, working with DESIGN ASST WW patternmaker to ensure fit comments Design Options candidatescandidates are are welcome welcome to to submit submit an an electronic electronic resume resume in in a aWord Word Seeking design asst with min 1 yr. SWEATER DESIGNER are completed, creating and updating exp. Must have sketching exp. Some attachmentattachment to to [email protected] [email protected] OR OR you you can can US US Mail Mail your your resume resume spec packages, working with the over- COSTING Novelty Sweater Co. seeks creative person pattern and technical knowledge is re- w/min. 3 years exp. Strong sketching/ to:to: Human Human Resources, Resources, Burt’s Burt’s Bees, Bees, P.O. P.O. Box Box 13489, 13489, Durham, Durham, NC NC seas factories, and specing samples. The fastest growing ladies suit and quired. Must be able to work in a fast Must have at least 5 years experience sportswear manufacturer and importer graphing skills req’d. Good color sense 27709.27709. We We are are an an equal equal opportunity opportunity employer, employer, M M / /F F/ /D D / /V. V. paced environment. & detail oriented. FULL BENEFITS. preferably with the KARAT system. in the industry currently has a costing Fax resumes to 646-473-0982 Please fax resume with salary position available in our Production Please Fax resume to: 212-768-1143 ForFo additionalr additional opportunities, opportunities, please please visit: visit: requirements to: (212) 328-1230 Department located in mid-town Manhattan! Successful candidates Better womens import manufacturer must have previous costing experience Design Cutesy Baby Stuff! www.burtsbees.comwww.burtsbees.com of woven shirts and sportswear seeks: NJ accessory company seeks a talented EDI to $35-38K. Current exp. in with imported garments from samples apparel co. Order entry. Warehouse and sketches. Proficiency in Excel is designer for their newborn/infant Computer Production accessory line. 2-3 years licensed environment. Edison New Jersey area. required. We offer a competitive Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy EarthEarth Friendly Friendly Natural Natural Personal Personal Care Care Products Products Patternmaker salary and benefit package. Please fax baby/lafayette experience a must! Experienced in Woven Tops & Sports your resume with salary requirements Creative working environment, friend- wear with a strong private label back- to the attention of: Mr. Evans at ly people and great benefits. Outstand- ground. You must be flexible and well 973-258-0978 ing opportunity for the right GRAPHIC ARTIST organized to work with multiple accounts candidate. Email resume: Childrenswear co. seeks talented artist & understand overseas factories. Must [email protected] to create prints, appliques and em- MERCHANDISING POSITIONS be a team player who is used to working broideries for generic and licensed art. in a fast paced environment and have CUSTOMER SERVICE Must have at least 2 yrs. exp. in Children’s wear importer seeks Designer $80-$100K. Current exp. in MACYS.COM at least 5 yrs. experience on the Gerber moderate missy sweaters. Fashion lisenced products for n/b, infant, and Accumark system. Please fax resume individual with experience in EDI, todler. Lac Ill 8 & 10. Also must have allocations, invoicing, data entry, and vison of Liz Claiborne etc. 1411 Broad- The New York based merchandising team of this world-class with salary requirements: (212) 328-1230 way. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. knowledge/ exp with production art customer and warehouse relations. pkgs. Fax resume to MM: 212-971-4681 retailer is seeking talented candidates for DIRECTOR OF Must be detail oriented and have PLANNING and ASSISTANT BUYER positions. Must have BOOKKEEPER strong follow up, computer and com- retail experience, preferably in Internet/catalog environment, Designers’ rep seeks experienced book- munication skills. Fax resume/salary keeper. Responsibilities include bill- requirements to COO at 212 563 2301 DESIGNER GRAPHIC DESIGNER excellent computer, analytical, communication, organizational ing, commission analysis, collections, Couture design house seeking evening Leading manufacturer of fun junior and problem solving skills. and communication with vendors. wear designer with 4-5 years exp. Must novelties seeks graphic designer with Strong computer skills required, in- have sketching and technical knowl- exp. in licenses such as Disney, Nickel- To apply, log on to www.macysjobs.com. cluding Quick-books, Excel and Word. CUT & SEW KNIT T.D. $65K edge about couture garment odeon, etc. 2 years exp. with Illustrator Macys.com is an equal opportunity employer. E-mail resume and salary require- Vertical Retailer, Mens Ladies. construction and Photoshop a must. ments to: [email protected] [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Fax resume to 646-472-0982 Fax resume to 212-594-0452 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004

JEWELRY JOBS!!!$$$ Production Assistant SPEC WRITER & *Designer/Costume for Jrs/Mass Fast-growing LA knitwear company PRIVATE LABEL seeks hardworking individual to coor- US Account Executive *Designer/Relocate to St. Louis, Mo dinate production. Also, responsible *Design Asst./Specs & Sketch COORDINATOR Seeking a highly enthusiastic Sales for managing day-to-day operations of Due to expansion, Harvé Benard has 2 Rep w/min 3-5 yrs exp to join our fast *Product Development/Jrs/Mass vibrant design studio. Minimum 2 yrs. new positions available in its Clifton, growing brand. You have a great sense *Production/Costume/Mass experience. Must be highly organized, NJ location. Both require excellent of fashion, excellent communication *Sales--Costume & Fine Jewelry methodical and willing to take initiative. verbal and written communication skills, & an entrepreneurial spirit to de- Strong computer skills and fluency in skills and 2 yrs. technical & construc- velop our existing business/open new Fax w/salary info: 914-962-2257 Spanish a plus. Please fax resume to: tion knowledge. Spec Writer will be accounts. Relationships w/ major retail- Or Email: [email protected] (310) 358-9031 Asst. to Technical Designer. Private ers A+ Computer & org’l skills a must! Label Coordinator will act as liaison Customer Service / Sales Assistant JOBS JOBS JOBS Production Assistant between both in house depts. & Excellent communication & data entry *Artists - Boy - Young Men- Girl- JR Large import co seeks exp’d person. outside contacts. skills required in a person who can *Assist or assoc dsgnr yg miss/knit/woven Duties include preparing purchase Fax resume with salary req. to: multi-task in a fast paced environ- *Assoc designer jr knit/wvn-tech-graphic orders, order tracking, ordering 973-249-8651 or email to: ment. You will be involved in all phas- *Assoc Designer Jr or Girls Jkts/Btms accessories and communication w/ [email protected] es of admin & sales including order *Designer dress I/6x holiday/spec occas factories. Must have knowledge EOE/M/F/V/D. processing, customer follow-up, and re- Federated Merchandising Group, A $2 billion division of *Designers - Assists - Assoc - Boy or Girl of computers. Fax # 212 398 0317 turns. Must be service oriented, and *Entry Level: CAD Artists possess a great fashion sense. Min 2 Federated Department Stores, is seeking Technical *Entry Level: Production Assistants PRODUCTION years related experience. Designers and Designers for it’s growing Ready to Wear, *Entry Level: Spec Techs Stylist - Junior Prints Fax resumes & brief cover letter to HR Intimate Apparel and Men’s businesses. *Fabric Coordinator - organized/admin COORDINATOR Transprint USA, a leading heat trans- at: 212-840-3630 *Product coord liaison bet design&prodctn fer print co, seeks self-motivated indi- *Production Coord. - Bilingual Chinese Cynthia Steffe vidual able to seek out, predict and Men’s Neckwear Designer *Production: Mgrs & Coords & Assists Rapidly expanding contemporary color jr trends. Must have CAD *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel design firm seeks experienced, highly exp/good color sense/ knowledge of jr *Technical Designer Sweaters motivated individual to handle domes- market customers. Be able to work in Intimate Apparel Design and CAD Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) tic production, Minimum five years fast paced environ, have a streetwise experience, all others need not apply. edge, be extremely organized & work Please fax resume attn: (212) 302-1254 as part of a design team. Good bene- Tailored RTW Technical Designer KIDS T.D. $50K fits. Fax resume 212-967-5099 attn: [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 PRODUCTION MANAGER Philip or [email protected] Denim RTW Technical Designer Highly organized & motivated individ- ual. Must have 3 yrs. exp. in women’s Marketing Coordinator woven collection w/technical knowl- T.D. KNITS/WOVENS $80K Woven RTW Technical Designer Women’s bridge apparel co seeks detail- edge & overseas delivery tracking exp. Bi-Lingual Mandarin & Patmaking Exp TIME FOR A CHANGE oriented indiv w/strong writing, verbal Ship’g & import a plus. Career growth [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 opportunity. Fax resume 212-354-2661 At FMG we focus on your personal and professional growth. communication, and organizational skills. Come join us! We are a We have in depth, on-the-job training and classroom Exp in project management, marketing diverse, successful private label and fashion req. Proactive, focused person- PRODUCTION PERSON T.D. WESTCHESTER N.Y. $75K company doing business for over 50 training to enhance both technical and management skills. ality best suited. Must be proficient in Pat Exp, PDM. Travel HK 1 Trip Experienced with Jr. & Contemporary years. We offer a pleasant work FMG offers a wide range of community activities such as Excel and Word. Please fax resume to: market. Ability to communicate with [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 (212) 683-6761 Far East. Computer knowledge required. environment with offices in both the soup kitchens, reading to children, clothing drives, etc. We E-mail: [email protected] are committed to helping provide you with a good work-life Technical Design Assistant U.S. and Asia. We are searching for a dynamic sales professional who balance through flexible work schedules, discounted gym MERCHANDISER PRODUCTION/SOURCING & Production Coordinator memberships and much, much more. We believe that our can hit the ground running. Must OF DRESSES VON DUTCH KIDS Fast-paced Designer Co. seeks Technical have strong sales ability, proven people are our most valuable resource! Come join FMG Leading dress company with tremen- We seek an individual with Domestic Design Assistant / Production Coordinator and start your new career today! dous distribution seeks experienced and Overseas production experience. for both the Tracy Reese & Plenty lines. track record and current relation- merchandiser. Individual must have Must be computer literate, be able to TECHNICAL DESIGN ASSISTANT ships with catalogues and stores for excellent sense of trends, color, style travel, have denim experience, strong Candidate should have a minimum of 2 private label. We will consider only Federated Merchandising Group and must be well versed in all areas organizational and follow up skills. years experience with writing spec sheets of line development. This is a unique Fax resume/salary requirements to and specing garments. Written and verbal candidates with min 10 yrs experi- 11 Penn Plaza, New York, New York 10001 COO at 212 563 2301 Fax: 212-494-6824 or apply online at opportunity for a team-oriented profes- communication skills a must! Knowledge ence selling women’s apparel. Hard sional to advance the company and of Photoshop a plus! Chinese, Korean, work and results will be handsomely www.careers.federatedmerchandisinggroup.com themselves to the next level. QUALITY CONTROLLER or Indian as a second language a plus! Fax resume to: 212-827-0074 rewarded with a generous compensa- Growing NJ based Co. seeking 10+ yrs exp PRODUCTION COORDINATOR --Tech knowledge of knits & wovens-- Candidate must have 3 years experience tion plan. Please send resume: MERCHANDISING Ladies Garments in Far East and domestic production. Email Resume to: [email protected] Extremely organized, detail oriented, Fax: 212-594-3009 ASSISTANT and with strong follow-up skills. Manufacturer of fun junior novelties RECEPTIONIST Both applicants must be fluent with both seeks individual for product develop- High-energy Apparel Co. seeks bright Excel and Word. Please E-mail resume Accessory/Gift Division ment. Includes researching trends, energetic person with great communica- and necessary salary requirements to: Seeking energetic, motivated Sales Pros sourcing & sampling with factories tion skills. Will maintain showroom and [email protected] overseas. Must be organized, creative greet customers. Good organizational for our Accessory & Gift Division to and be able to work independently. skills &multi tasking a must. Candi- grow business. Must have 5-10 years Buyer or merchandising experience dates please Fax resume to: 212-575-0069 experience, successful sales record, and preferred. Fax resume to 212-594-0452. strong account contacts. Cosmetic indus- Technical Designer try relationships a plus. Fax resume to: APPAREL & ACCESSORY BUYERS RETAIL ANALYST (2) $$$$ For Contemp. women’s line, hangs w/ 201-943-8195 Lg Co. Numbers/Inventory/TURN Ms Sixty. Expertise in Photoshop, Illus- SAN DIEGO CORPORATE OFFICE LOCATION FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 trator, garment/accessory construction, fit, grading, fabrication, spec/tech and ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE HAVE IT ALL!! Live, work, and build your career all in an Retail Positions prod’n packages. Liaison w/ factories in Established moderate missy and large Looking for qualified Retail Professionals HK & Italy. Fax resume: 212.840.1289. size manufacturer seeks dynamic, ener- expanding, successful, and profitable retail company located To fill the following positions: getic, hard-working sales professional in San Diego, California! Charlotte Russe and Rampage Buyers: Boston, NJ, NYC and LI to $110K for NY showroom. Must have account Mgrs/Merch Planners NYC to $120K relationships, excellent communication TECHNICAL DESIGNER skills and be results oriented. Great Stores are currently seeking qualified Buyer candidates with Send Resumes to:[email protected] Growing Jr. sportswear co. seeks exp’d Or call 954-351-1112 Ext: 244 career opportunity! the following qualifications: pro to assist designer. Thorough knowl- Fax resume: 212-354-1974 *PLANNERS 45-100K edge of tech pack & specs for oversees (Retail, Merchandise & Distribution Analyst) production. Detail oriented, team play er. · 3+ years Buyer level Junior fashion Apparel a/o Accessory *TECH DESIGNER (All levels) 30-95K Sales Assistant ENTRY LEVEL Fax resume: 212-840-1374 or email: Account Executive Buying experience *PRODUCTION (All levels) 45-80K [email protected] *EX. ASST. (6+ yrs. Exp. a must) 80K CP Shades, a California based contem- Leading private label ladies sports- · Excellent vendor relationship building and negotiation skills porary casual clothing manufacturer is wear co. seeking an established key (Please define which position you’re applying for) looking for an entry-level Sales Asst. account salesperson to join our team! www.tuttleagency.com for our New York Showroom. Must have Must have 5 yrs minimum experience Listed in Forbes 2002 list of "Best Small Companies", Fax resumes: 212-448-0932 Attn: Chris knowledge of Microsoft Excel & Word, TECHNICAL DESIGNER in dealing with national accounts. Charlotte Russe offers tremendous career and promotional Or email: [email protected] be organized, detail oriented & friendly. Leading apparel co. seeks a tech. Friendly work environment with Please fax resume to: (212) 869-9802 designer for junior cut & sew & knit tremendous support system in place. opportunities to our talented and qualified employees! tops. Must have exp. working w/ Competitive salary and benefits offered. Positions Available Sales Assistant overseas & domestic factories, develop Please fax resume to MM 212-944-8409 GROW AS WE GROW! Fax your resume to: 858 875-0326, detailed technical packages & lead fit JANE ASHLEY/JEETISH IMPORTS Fast paced Apparel Company has an sessions to ensure quality & resolve all or mail to: 4645 Morena Blvd., SD, CA 92117, TODAY! opening for a Sales Assistant. Responsi- production/design issues. Excellent Major Sportswear company has the bilities include order placement, following positions available: verbal/written skills are essential. AVIREX account follow up and communication Currently interviewing for independent, Apply online at www.charlotte-russe.com Production Asst. Must be computer literate. Min. 3 - 5 and interfacing with both design and yrs exp. required. high powered, "go-getter" Sales Reps Candidate should have experience in production. Experience with Word and with established account base / Dept. tracking overseas shipments and Please fax resume in confidence Excel required. The candidate is organ- to Evan: 212-819-1912. and better Specialty Stores/ for new corresponding with suppliers. Must be ized, detail oriented and thrives in a premium designer dressier sportswear detail oriented and computer multi-tasking environment. Minimum line. VARIOUS TERRITORIES AVAILABLE. literate. two years experience required. Fax Please send resume confidentially to: Order Entry/Coordinator resume to 212-842-4030 Attn: J Leib. We TECHNICAL DESIGNER Fax: (212) 575-6962 or An exp’d order entry person who will are an equal opportunity employer. Major retailer in NJ requires technical Email: [email protected] also coordinate w/ shipping for order designer for lingerie and sleepwear. processing. Must be highly organized SaraMax PDM required. Excellent salary and & detail oriented and is able to moni- benefits. Da-Nang - Joe’s - Follies SALES MANAGER/to 100K+ Looking for 3 specialists to run better tor every level of order execution. For mjr. Accessory co’s "Hot" soft case Send your resume, in confidence to: Minimum 3 yrs. experience. JRS Executive Search contemporary specialty store sales. Figleaves.com is the leading on-line retailer of Branded div. (laptops, PDA’s, cells ph.,cases etc). 3-5 years experience selling similar Intimate Apparel. We have the following immediate opportu- Receptionist/Admin Asst. Req: ability to be: a closer, team lead- www.jrsexecutivesearch.com Fax: 239-254-8870 lines is a must. Please e-mail resumes: Seeking a person who is enthusiastic er, work w/outside reps, based in NYC, [email protected] nities based in our New York and Fairfield County offices: and has excellent communication & have a steady & proven track record E-mail: [email protected] interpersonal skills. Some computer (rel. expr.pref) Exp. working w/ Nat’l home Intimate Apparel Buyer skills necessary. electronics,drug chains, grocery, mass etc. GREAT OPPORTUNITY Lead the merchandising and buying for all Figleaves.com Fax All Resumes To: 212-768-1858 E-mail resume: [email protected] TECHNICAL National Search Firm expanding its U.S. Brands. You will have a record of successful Intimate (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 PATTERNMAKER Retail Search Division is looking for Apparel buying, strong negotiating ability, and excellent Sales and Recruitment Talent. Join an Sales Sample Packaging Asst. Women’s high end apparel company aggressive Firm that offers excellent management and administrative skills. Department Store Prod’n. Coordinator Asst. Responsibilities will include sample seeks part time technical Patternmaker benefits including a 401K plan. The and/or Catalogue buying experience is a plus. Domestic better Women’s Co. seeks a labeling, photographing and archiving, with at least 5 yrs experience. Work on right candidate can join either the NYC computer savvy perfectionist w/minimum maintenance of sample room, assembling samples to production. Basic to cou- or FT. Lauderdale office. Please check Intimate Apparel Assistant Buyers 5 years experience and knowledge of of presentation boards and swatch cards. ture level evening wear. Able to utilize out our Website @ www.seguesearch.com garment construction & stretch fabrics. Also modification of packaging files Lectra pattern making software. For a confidential interview please Assist the Buyer in assortment planning, product administra- Experience w/Gerber system & grading including font loading, editing and CD Please send resume to: contact Randy Schaefer tion and purchase order management. You will be highly aplus. Benefits. Please Fax resume & burning. Must be familiar with MAC and Camille Ashby, 499 Seventh Avenue (954) 351-1112 or (877) 777-3483 or salary history to: 212-725-7567 PC environments. Must know Word, Excel, 18th Floor - South Tower New York, Email [email protected] motivated and have 1-2 years of related retail experience in Photoshop and Illustrator. NY 10018 212-271-6111 or Email a buying office or store. Salary range $25K. Please fax resume: [email protected] Both positions require strong analytical and computer ability, Jay (212) 213-4296 JONDEN and excellent interpersonal skills. Prod’n. Coordinator - Head 1411 Broadway Fast Paced Textile - Garment Importer Textile Artist sought by textile service Missy knit sportswear company seeks Please email your resume & salary requirements, indicating seeks Prodduction. Coordinator fluent in Sample Cutter company. Requirements: BFA + min 1 Chiago Mid-West specialty rep. which position is of interest, to [email protected] Chinese &English. Must have excellent Couture house seeks person to cut one yr. exp. in apparel & home furnishings FAX: 718-369-4927 communication & computer (Word/Excel) of a kind pieces. Must have knowledge work + CAD proficiency. Send resume We offer competitive salary and benefits. Figleaves.com is an skills!!! Minimum 10 years experience of matching & grading. Minimum 5 to In Vogue Studios Ltd., Attn: Hilarie req’d. Extensive knowledge of credit years exp. Fax resume: 212-279-0368 Bach, 545 8th Ave., Suite 21, New Ladies Suit Sales equal opportunity employer. Only those candidates selected transactions, shipping documents, and York, NY 10018 for consideration will be contacted. www.figleaves.com accounting preferred. Send resume to: Once in a lifetime opportunity. Domestic Box#M 1039 SAMPLEMAKER sportswear company seeks energetic c/o Fairchild Publications Sales Person with contacts to become Women’s wear apparel company seeks avital part of our team. Excellent growth 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl experienced samplemaker. New York, NY 10001 opportunity for enthusiastic, motivated Call (212) 382-0400 bet. 12-1PM Raffi TEXTILE DESIGNER individual. Salary plus commission. GRAPHIC DESIGNER HOT COMPANIES! Full time. Design studio seeks energetic Fax resume to Joe @(212) 643-1289 Licensed/Private Label apparel co. CAD designer to create prints for the seeks talented, creative, self-motivated, ** Production/Sales Assts ** apparel and home markets. Must have team-oriented Designer able to work Various spots, all levels, kids, PRODUCTION - 40K SAMPLE SEWER a good eye for color and a contempo- NEW YORK REP WANTED under tight deadlines. Knowledge of accessories, sleepwear. Full benefits Coordinator for Accessory Co. Selia Yang bridal and evening wear co. rary, trendy hand. Proficient in NY Rep for Montreal collection. Young, Photoshop and Illustrator a must. Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or 2 yrs exp required. Come from seeks highly skilled indiv. with exp in Photoshop and Illustrator. contemporary washable leather & suede, Located in San Francisco. e-mail [email protected] Accessory or Sleepwear. NYC loc. working with chiffon & beaded fabrics. Please call Stephanie @ woven & knit sportswear. Contact Taline: Please fax resume to: (415) 558-8965 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Email resume to: [email protected] Call/Fax 212 254 9073 212-594-0777 for a portfolio review. Tel: 514-381-4112 / Fax: 514-381-3559 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 31, 2004 23

NY Sales Pro Sales Support 2 year young, Premium Contemporary Jeanswear Co. - Presents a great oppty. Specialist - NY for an aggressive NY based Sales Pro. Lectra, a leading technology provider Must be an extremely self-motivated for the apparel industry, is seeking a team player, with at least 2-3 yrs expe- Sales Support Specialist in the rience w/ strong established contacts Apparel and Textile Markets for its NY in the better Specialty and Dept. store office. This position will provide business. Salary + Comm. and Great direct support to customers and the Vice President, Sales Benefits Pkg. Must be computer literate sales team; providing input and direction &willing to travel. Please e-mail cover on customer requirements, product Junior handbag manufacturer seeks top sales professional to letter & resume to: [email protected] development as well as sales and take the lead for this high profile position. Candidate must marketing needs. Four (4) year degree have strong sales record, established account relationships, in Fashion, Apparel, Merchandising or Textiles and 2-3 yrs industry exp. and fashion merchandising skills. Individual must be self mo- req’d. Travel is required. tivated with leadership skills and possess strong analytical ex- Optical Accessories Fax or email resume to: pertise for sales planning and inventory management. Fedon America, Inc. a leading importer of Optical Accessories, seeks energetic Lectra HR Mgr 800-746-3416 Sales Executive for our NY showroom. [email protected] Sales Assistant Minimum 5 years exp. Candidate must Seeking energetic sales assistant for junior handbag manu- have strong relationships w/major Dept. / Showroom Sales Specialty Stores & Mass Market Accounts, Est’d Import Co seeks exp sales pro for facturer. This position will have direct sales responsibility, in as well as being an organized, motivated missy & large sizes. Must have estab- addition to supporting sales team. Individual must be highly self starter; Computer knowledge and lished relationship with dept stores, organized, detail oriented, hardworking and self motivated. travel are required. E-mail resumes to: specialty stores & catalog co. Must be [email protected] ateam player & have knowledge of the Strong computer skills a must. Great growth potential with ex- market. Fax resume to (212) 354-6553 panding division. or E-mail to: [email protected] SALES/ACCESSORIES/to 100k+ Sr. Sales Exec needed for the Handbag div SLS - KIDS SPTSWR HI$ We offer a fantastic working environment, with a of mjr Accessory imp. co. Req: proven & Lge est’d co. seeks expd seller for competitive salary package + 401K + benefits. steady track record/exp working w/Wal- branded lines to mid-tier Mart, Target etc./specialty stores. Previous Please fax all resumes: 212-696-2098 accessory exp a plus. NYC based. A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. E-mail resume to: [email protected] 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 SALES/ACCOUNT NATIONAL WOMEN’S EXECUTIVE JEWELRY STORES High-end accessory company seeks NYC, NJ, FL & St. Thomas exp’d Account Executive with 3-5 years wholesale background. Established Now hiring F/T Salespeople account following with dept & specialty & Managers for flagship stores a plus. Strong attention to detail stores. Must have experience & accuracy a must. Must be willing to Established knitwear manufacturer has an exceptional oppor- travel & develop new business. in retail sales and a passion tunity for 2 individuals to join its exciting team. Qualified Please fax resume w/ cover letter & for fashion. Store Managers salary requirements to: will be involved in setting candidates are positive, flexible and proactive. Strong follow-up {212} 245-2038 skills and proficiency in all MS office applications is a must. sales goals, hiring & merchandising. Our boutiques offer a sophisticated & intimate Sr. Account Executive working atmosphere. Minimum of 4 yeas experience. Will work with specialty SALES Better contemporary women sports- stores, department stores and be involved in the launch of a wear mfr. is seeking a sales rep for Fax resume {212} 355-1411 new product line. Well established contacts a plus. our corporate office. Email resume to: [email protected] Jr. Account Executive 1-3 years experience. Will work with specialty stores and assist with department stores. Room for growth. Sales Executive Junior/Plus Import Sportswear Co. seeks an experienced Salesperson Please fax resume to: 212-764-3665 or with proven track record. Must have good following with Mass Merchants. email:[email protected] Please fax resume to: (212) 575-5311

SALES EXECUTIVE Watch accessory company seeks sales ACCESSORIES exec for NY showroom. 1-3 years exp. Mfr. seeks Sales Professionals to expand Strong organizational & follow-up skills business with bridal distributors. Non- to maintain and develop accounts. Must competing lines okay. Fax resume to: INDEPENDENT SALES REPRESENTATIVES be an excellent communicator, team 478-741-9636 player. Act required, Photoshop & High-end intimate apparel Lejaby Designer and JLo brand of Warnaco Word application a plus. Please fax Inc.isseeking Independent Sales Representatives for Specialty Stores in the resume att: David at: 212-689-4036. Mid West, South and Northeast areas.Asaconsultant, you must agree ACCOUNTS that you will not, during the consulting period, compete with, accept RECEIVABLE employment or accept engagement as a consultant with any competitor of Knowledge of all tiers of business. Warnaco Inc. or its subsidiaries or affiliates. Sales/Marketing Proficient with A2000. Provide salary Entry Sales Position requirements with resume. The highly motivated individual we seek will possess previous Specialty Fax: 212-944-2055 Luggage & Accessories Stores sales exp. Additional responsibilities include monitoring sales results NYC Showroom base. Must know NYC & performing sales coordination & marketing functions as well as Metro Area. Must be self starter administrative/ sales, assistance to local Specialty Store retailers. One to 2 capable of selling accounts nationally. years’ related Specialty Store exp helpful. Good interpersonal, communica- Some travel. Salary & Benefits. Factory Direct Sales Fax resume to 212-736-3913 El Salvador based Cut & Sew Sweater tion, computer, mathematical, & problem-solving skills essential. Mfr. seeks Sales Rep with strong rela- tionships with sourcing directors at major We offer competitive compensation. Please fax your retailers. Must have extensive experience resume, including consulting compensation rate Sales with direct to retail and package sales. requirements to: (212) 287-8257 Candidate should be willing to work on PRIVATE LABEL an incentive based structure, and have knowledge of sweater mfg. Excellent SWEATER SALES organizational, communication, and Young spirited sweater importer seeks follow-up skills req’d. Please Fax resume: self motivated, high-energy, organized 212-268-8599 junior Salesperson. Three years private label import experience required. Strong communication, National Sales Manager/National Sales Force computer and presentation skills are JR. SURF LINE Hot new Junior Contemporary & Kids line exploding in the essential. Must have a passion to explore Growing company aggressively seek- market has opened some of the best department stores & and develop new accounts. We offer ing established & experienced sales better specialty stores in the country. We are looking to hire excellent benefits. reps to promote and sell our Jr. Surf Please email your resume to Line. Candidate must have knowledge aNational Sales Manager with 10 years experience in better [email protected] or of boutique, dept store and action Fax {212} 840-7742 sports market. Territories available Department & Specialty stores. Sales Manager must have nationwide. Please fax resume to: strong management skills capable of hiring & managing a Ad # RV001 @ Fax 323-277-9025 National Sales Force. We are also seeking Sales Reps in key geographic locations: New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Texas, Sales Professional The Rockies, San Francisco & Los Angeles. Experienced pro- Well known contemporary sweater/ knit Co. seeks exp’d sales pros. Min 5 fessionals with proven record of accomplishment & existing years exp reqd, strong connection account list need only apply. Six figure potential income. w/major, specialty chain in better mkt. Please fax resume Attention: Human Resources @ High commission incentive plan and great working environment. (213) 228-0416 or Fax resume to 646-473-0963 or Email: [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] www.littlebig.com.tr Independent Sales Reps *DALLAS SALES PRO - JRS. *ATLANTA Established Jr. company seeks energetic *CHICAGO N.Y. based SALES PRO with strong *FLORIDA relationships with Specialty Chains & Established sales reps with own Department stores to launch an exciting showroom & existing better specialty new knit top line. Must expand business store accounts for Men’s and Women’s in all territories. Great Benefits. European contemporary denim line. Please fax resume to: (610) 932-7051 Please E-mail: [email protected] or E-MAIL: [email protected] or Fax: 212-868-2120