Candy Girl NEW YORK — If Visions of Sugarplums Dance in Your Head Year Round, the Time Is Right to Indulge in a Bit of Novelty

STORM DOESN’T WIPE OUT WEEKEND RETAIL/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • December 8, 2003 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Candy Girl NEW YORK — If visions of sugarplums dance in your head year round, the time is right to indulge in a bit of novelty. For spring, innerwear designers favor candy prints on everything from bathrobes to slinky pajamas, and the results are sweet and sexy. Here Eberjey’s silk camisole and tap pants.

2004’s Retail Surprise? Economic Outlook Rosy But It Might Not Last

By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — A strong holiday season would only add to expectations of a stronger economy in 2004, but economists and analysts worry that any rebound will be short-lived without a better job outlook. Despite Saturday’s snowstorm — which ultimately should not have a major impact on sales — economists expect a solid holiday. That, coupled with election-year politics, is likely to give the economy a strong start in 2004, but consumers won’t allow it to carry into 2005, experts say, unless there’s real See Long, Page13 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: MARIYA SHVETSOVA/SUPREME; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MATEO FOR WARREN TRICOMI; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY TRICOMI; STYLED BY FOR WARREN MATEO HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SHVETSOVA/SUPREME; JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: MARIYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 WWDMONDAY Tourists Help Salvage Snowy Sales Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

Saturday and we’re extremely FASHION By Ross Tucker A look at what’s going on in the world of young talent, through the eyes of and Katherine Bowers busy now,” said the store manager, who identified herself as 6 Charlotte Martin, Zac Posen and Paul Berman of 30 Vandam. NEW YORK — It certainly wasn’t Caroline, on Sunday afternoon. as bad as it could have been. “We had a lot of tourists getting Retailers in the Northeast accessories — hats and gloves GENERAL said they got away relatively easy mostly. People that were staying FINANCIAL FORECAST: Election-year politics are likely to give the economy a in coping with the record snow- in hotels weren’t going to stay in. 1 jolt in 2004, but without sustained job creation, it might not carry into 2005. fall for this time of year — it still Things are picking up today. It’s The snowstorm that blanketed the Northeast on Friday and Saturday was isn’t even officially winter yet — JASMINE CURTH STORM PHOTOS BY cold but it’s sunny. We have lines, 2 for many retailers pretty much a non-issue by Sunday morning. and most seemed to think aggres- the traffic is really big here.” sive Sunday shopping would A spokeswoman at Chloé at ACCESSORIES: With intricate design work, bold semiprecious stones and make up for a slow-to-non-exis- 70th Street and Madison 8 eye-popping diamonds, Vera Wang’s first jewelry collection is a visual feast. tent day on Saturday, when a Avenue, which does not open on Department stores and specialty apparel retailers cut staff in November and pair of storm systems blanketed Sundays, said, “Saturday we 800 jobs were lost in the domestic apparel and textile industries last month. the region with anywhere from 8 closed early, at 4. The weather 19 inches to nearly 2 feet. did affect sales, it considerably Kmart Holdings Corp. posted a narrower third-quarter loss than its While travel was treacherous cut down walk-in traffic, but we 11 bankrupt predecessor company did in 2002, but comps continued to slide. for most of Saturday, roads were had our repeat customers com- Versace is considering selling its historical headquarters, among other cleared enough by Sunday morning in to see our spring line.” strategies revealed in the interim ceo’s restructuring plan. ing throughout the New York Malls and shopping centers 2 metropolitan area that many in suburban areas were general- The scene in Herald Square Friday. malls had shoppers waiting to get ly harder hit. EYE in the door when they opened, Avenue location. “We were defi- “Losing a Saturday during Dita Von Teese offers some racy advice…Liv Tyler’s yen for and the streets of midtown nitely affected like anyone else any time of year is not good,” said McQueen…cleaning up those nasty tattoos. Manhattan bustled with tourists in the area, but we still did pret- Janine Nebons, general manager 4 and shoppers alike. Even on ty well, overall,” said the store of the 170-store Tanger Outlet Saturday, some stores in the city manager on Sunday. “In this Center in Riverhead, N.Y. “But Obituary ...... 15 reported doing good business, area, it’s saturated with tourists. losing a Saturday during the holi- particularly from tourists — They’re not going to let a little day shopping season is terrible.” Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 many of whom were not about to snow stop them, they get excited According to Nebons, the let the storm sequester them in by it. There’s a big difference al- Tanger Outlet was shut down by To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is their hotel rooms. ready today.” 6 p.m. on Friday night and re- [email protected], using the individual's name. Major Midtown department It was a similar story for Gap mained closed on Saturday. stores, such as Macy’s and in Herald Square. Despite losing a key Saturday be- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2003 Bloomingdale’s, maintained reg- “We were open Friday and fore Christmas, Nebons doesn’t FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ular hours over the weekend. Saturday and we had some great believe Mother Nature dealt a VOLUME 186, NO. 118. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays with one additional issue every month except July and two additional issues in April, September and December, and three in So did Giorgio Armani’s Fifth business. We were extremely busy Continued on page 16 August) by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Gucci America Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada Versace’s CEO Sets post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Posts Record DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Restructuring Plans subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild $4M in Sales magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully By Alessandra Ilari screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive LONDON — The momentum at these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. MILAN — Versace’s plan is Gucci Group keeps on building. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED ready at last. Sales at Gucci’s directly oper- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART Fabio Massimo Cacciatori, the ated U.S. stores reached an all- WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED interim chief executive officer at time high of nearly $4 million TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE the fashion house, will finally Thursday. “It was the best single ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. present the company’s restruc- day in Gucci America’s history,” a turing plan to shareholders company spokesman told WWD. Donatella and Santo Versace and The surge was because of a vigor- MONDAY: FFANY New York Shoe Expo (through to other board members, who in- ous U.S. market and particularly Wednesday). clude Leonardo Del Vecchio, on strong collections, he added. Tuesday. The spike confirms Gucci’s THURSDAY: The Commerce Department releases the According to a source close to bullish outlook for the second November retail sales report. the company, a crop of banks — half of its financial year, which Inditex Group reports third-quarter earnings. namely Morgan Stanley, Uni- runs from August until January. credito, Deutsche Bank, Intesa The Italian company said in a FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the Producer and Antonveneta — already second-half forecast in October Price Index for November. have examined the 150-page that it had not seen such growth The Commerce Department releases its import document. since Sept. 11, 2001. trade report for October. One point in Cacciatori’s “There was an improvement COMING THIS WEEK plan, confirmed by a real estate in the month of July as the col- source close to the company, lection hit the store,” Gucci comes as a surprise — the possi- Santo and Donatella Versace Group chairman Domenico De bility of selling the Via Gesù centrate together various previ- Sole said at the time, reporting palazzo, the company’s histori- ously far-flung divisions is a that the company posted a 1.1 In Brief cal headquarters that also strategy already adopted by percent uptick in second-quar- housed the late Gianni Versace’s many of Versace’s competitors ter sales to $684.5 million from ● PENNEY’S PROGRESS: J.C. Penney Co. Friday confirmed it home, decorated with Roman — including Armani, Dolce & $676.8 million. has retained Credit Suisse First Boston to evaluate “strategic busts, stuccoed ceilings and Gabbana, Tod’s and Moschino. “The problems that were alternatives regarding its Eckerd operations, including reten- Gustav Klimt paintings. As reported, the restructuring here have disappeared, mean- tion, merger, spin-off or sale.” As reported, Canadian retailer The source confirmed that plan aims at returning Versace to ing the war and SARS,” De Sole the Jean Coutu Group, which manages 300 pharmacies Donatella and Santo Versace the black by whittling costs on said, adding that retail sales for throughout Canada, is currently in negotiations with Penney’s, are considering selling the four fronts: advertising, manu- the group had “surged” since but other parties are, as well. “Jean Coutu is one of several in- 57,000-square-foot building, facturing, retailing and licensing. Aug. 1. terested parties. We are not negotiating with [Coutu] singular- which is valued at a minimum of On the retail scene, a spokes- Gucci America’s record sales ly,” said Allen Questrom, Penney’s chairman and chief execu- $67 million. The reason for the man confirmed that the plan in- last week are further evidence tive officer. spin-off is twofold. On one hand, cludes the shuttering of under- that the luxury industry overall it would inject a fresh dose of performing stores and the open- has been witnessing a pickup in ● FERRAGAMO P.R.: Clio Manuelian has resigned her posi- cash in light of the company’s ing of several stores in new mar- sales. Analysts say the key drivers tion as talent executive for E! Entertainment Television and $117 million bond that expires kets. It looks like Versace will in the luxury sector are global the Style Network in Los Angeles to become director of public next July and, on the other, it close stores in Paris and New economic growth, consumer con- relations for Ferragamo USA Inc. in New York. Manuelian was would be a first step toward York, where the company current- fidence and the “feel-good fac- tapped by Dana Gers, Ferragamo’s vice president of market- Versace regrouping under one ly has three and two shops, re- tor,” plus the appreciation of the ing, last month and starts Jan. 5. Manuelian will act as a liai- roof its different operating spectively. As for new locations, yen. All of these factors bottomed son with the press, stylists and celebrities and will report to arms, now spread out in four the most probable sites include out in the second quarter. In the Gers. different buildings in Milan. Spain, Prague and Birmingham, U.S. and Asia, in particular, there Finding bigger spaces to con- England, sources said. has been strong local demand. ACCESSORIE The Show Piers 12th Avenue at 55th Street, NYC Photo & Business ID Strictly Enforced for Admission SUNDAY–TUESDAY, JANUARY 11–13, 2004 9AM–6PM DAILY, 9AM–5PM LAST DAY An ENK International Event Phone: 212.759.8055 Fax: 212.758.3403 Email: [email protected] CIRCUIT INTERMEZZO SPRINGCOLLECTIONS 2004SUMMER 4 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 McQueen’s Princess LIONEL DULAY PHOTO BY Three’s the charm for Alexander McQueen, who dressed Liv Tyler in a glorious black gown for the Los Angeles eye® premiere of “The Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King” last week, just as he had for the first two films in the “Rings” trilogy. “His tailoring is sensational,” gushed Tyler, otherwise known as the elven royal, Arwen, as she made her way down the red carpet. “You feel PINUP’S RISE pretty and womanly. He cuts great for curves, but Dita Von Teese you also don’t feel like you’re hanging out at all.” While Tyler said finding new outfits for each LOS ANGELES — After years of swishing around in an enormous martini glass and premiere was “hard work,” the star’s habit of calling tiptoeing across the stage behind giant feather fans, Dita Von Teese is no longer dancing on McQueen certainly makes it look easy. In 2001, she — and stripping — on the fringe. Her legions of die-hard retro and fetish fans are chose a smart red suit for the London debut of “The learning to share their living icon with the mainstream types discovering neo-burlesque. Fellowship of the Ring,” while in 2002 at the Paris Jade Jagger recently enlisted Von Teese to do the martini glass act at a Garrard premiere of “The Two Towers,” Tyler went for full- party in London, while months earlier, she performed for Louis Vuitton execs at the throttle glamour in a pink corset gown McQueen Bellagio in Las Vegas during their corporate retreat. Over the past year, she’s also constructed from 273 yards of silk organza. crossed over from being a Fetish and Playboy cover girl to doing fashion shoots for The Each was inspired by McQueen’s theatrical Face and Flaunt. And come June, burlesque wannabes will learn all about Von Teese’s runway collections, but crafting a premiere- secrets in her book, “A Girl’s Guide to Burlesque and Glamour.” appropriate look requires a different approach, the But it’s a Vogue shoot in Paris last week that has Von Teese, who took her name designer explained. “When I design for the red carpet, I from French cinema star Dita Parlo, really keyed up. She left boyfriend Marilyn am aware that this is one woman on her own in front of Manson, who’s touring with his band through Europe, to meet her hero Mr. Pearl, the the world press,” McQueen e-mailed from London. “For English corset couturier with the 18-inch waist. “Can you believe this? Vogue and Mr. me, it is not about how many foxes you can get around Pearl. I never would never have believed it,” she says. your neck or how big the rock on your finger is. It’s about Von Teese, an Orange County, Calif.-native, has lost track of her own collection of the individual. corsets, which at last count exceeded 300. Most are by Dark Garden or Versatile “You wear the clothes, they shouldn’t wear you,” he Fashions, the Orange, Calif.-based house helmed by fetish grand dame Miss added. “Liv embodies this idea beautifully.” Antoinette. As for lingerie, Von Teese hoards Chantal Thomass and Agent Provocateur. McQueen, of course, considers Tyler a friend as well And she loves hats — the bigger and wilder, the better — by Philip Treacy. Ditto the as a high-profile client — and he’s a huge “Lord of the highest of heels, particularly those by Christian Louboutin. Rings” fan. “I think the films are incredible — An addiction to Swarovski crystals, however, sends her accountant over the edge. beautiful and epic,” he said. “And you know how much The costume she debuted at the Garrard event was covered in $8,000 of sparkle. “One I like the macabre.” year I spent over $18,000 on crystals,” she says. “I have them everywhere in my acts — on a claw-foot tub, a carousel horse, an antique phone. I go to the Liberace museum to get inspiration.” So why doesn’t she hit up the Swarovskis for sponsorship? “I don’t think they want to lose my business as a client!” Currently, Von Teese’s vast wardrobe resides in the guest house-cum-closet behind the home she shares here with Manson. He has gushingly referred to Von Teese as “the love of my life.” And she adores living with a man that takes as long as she does to get ready for an evening out. On Thursday, just three hours after arriving from Paris, Von Teese made her way to the Farmani Gallery in Beverly Hills where 13 oversized portraits of her taken by French photographer Lionel Deluy lined the walls, a project that began as a collaboration with The Book L.A. “What is incredible about Dita is that she works so fast in front of the camera,” says Deluy, standing with his own musician girlfriend, Fiona Apple. Also checking out the exhibition are the partners of Dita Eyewear, who named the brand in honor of the diva. Another hard-core fan, wearing a backless dress, shows off an image of Dita Liv Tyler in Alexander McQueen at the tattooed across her shoulder blade, while yet another brandishes an image of Von premiere of “The Lord of the Rings: Teese and the dancer’s cat inked across her leg. The Return of the King,” above, and in Of course, Von Teese is used to such attention. “How weird is that?” she sighs. Alexander McQueen in 2002 and — Rose Apodacaπ Jones

2001, at right. WIREIMAGE; TYLER 2001: CORBIS TYLER 2002 AND 2003 PHOTOS BY Salad Daze t a Valentino-hosted lunch to benefit New Yorkers for Children at Bergdorf AGoodman, Anne Grauso was in a holiday mood. “I just put the cardinal in the wreath, stood back and had a moment,” she said. But Blaine Trump, who was just back from South Beach, had a more pressing matter on her mind: “Does anyone know how to remove a henna tattoo?” she asked, lifting the hem of her pants to show off an ankle decorated with tribal arabesques. Thankfully, Jennifer Tiffany Dubin at the Samantha Creel knew the proper formula. “Lemon Valentinolentino lunch.lunch. Boardman Tor y Burch juice,” she offered. The next day, Trump, Serena Boardman, Pauline Pitt and Helen Schifter hosted the annual God’s Love We Deliver fund-raising luncheon at Sotheby’s. Among those shopping at the event were Kalliope Karella, who ordered a few boxes of brownies (recommended by Serena), and Samantha Boardman and Tory Burch, who admired Narciso Rodriguez- and Michael Kors-designed Christmas stockings, of which Kors has ordered his fair share to give to friends. Karen Blaine Trump LeFrak helped CeCe Cord choose an image of Alex and Muffie Cord’s dog, Tiger, for Christmas cards. Kramer at Potter Aston Nancy Jarecki Meanwhile, Marisa Noel Brown showed off Courtney Moss and the at God’s Love at God’s Love pictures of her newborn son, Ford, to Alex Hilary Dick at the ValenValentinotino Kramer and Jackie Astier. “She’s going to call We Deliver.liver. We Deliver.liver. Kalliopelliope KarellaKarella Anne Grauso Valentinolentino lunch.lunch. lunch.lunch. GOD’S LOVE WE DELIVER BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE WE DELIVER BY LOVE GOD’S her next one Mercedes,” Astier joked. ERICKSEN KYLE WE DELIVER BY LOVE GOD’S exclusively at V. Fraas

New York 212.244.2350 • Toronto 416.703.8969 • Chicago 312.670.0320 • Boston 603.749.5738 • St. Louis 314.739.7699 • Minneapolis 320.762.1419 • Seattle 541.902.8840 6 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMEBER 8, 2003 The Young and Here’s a look at what’s going on in the world of young talent — a beauty queen-turned-chanteuse on the verge, an entrepreneur who’s

Glo Jeans’ cotton and nylon jacket, Citizens of Humanity’s Good Charlotte cotton and polyurethane jeans. MP; NEW YORK — Charlotte Martin wears her heart and soul Bach that really gets her going. “He freaks me out,” she on her sleeve — sometimes literally. The piano-playing says. “I think everybody alive today — unless there’s songstress writes her set lists on her arm and doesn’t, as some freaky janitor walking around who’s a musical most performers do, tape a typed list to the floor. genius and doesn’t know it — is a hack compared to him, Also, unlike most other musicians, Martin, 27, is com- including myself.” pletely alone on stage, with just her presence and her Not such a hack that her four-song EP, “In Yamaha S90 keyboard to keep audiences attentive. “It’s Parentheses,” released in August, didn’t garner her crit- hard playing by myself,” she says. For one thing, a lone ical attention. Now, Martin is sorting out the final details female singer makes an easy target for male hecklers. for her first full-length album, due out in early spring. A While she often hears cheers of the “You rock!” genre, storyteller by nature, she works her songs like quirky some fans are less polite. “The other night, one guy diary entries. And she’s not afraid to divulge — in person screamed, ‘Show us your tits,’ ” Martin says. or onstage — her inspiration. For example, in one as yet With her angelic looks — long, wavy blonde hair, big untitled tune, she implores a guy, “I’m normal, please blue eyes and peaches-and-cream complexion — Martin date me.” attracts more than a few untoward e-mails and letters, as “After an amazing date with this one guy, he never well. “Someone compared me to Britney Spears,” she called me back,” she relays. “But I remembered he had says. “I was like, ‘What are you thinking?’ We’re both a Ford Explorer with a surfboard strapped to the roof, so blonde and both girls, but that’s pretty much it.” my girlfriend and I rode around looking for it. I wrote the Musically, she’s the polar opposite of Britney, penning song while we were in the car. Once I found the Explorer, her own songs — brutally honest, slightly Goth odes to though, that was it. I didn’t do anything.” lost love. She usually draws comparisons to Tori Amos While she’s willing to talk about almost any personal and Kate Bush, and that’s fine with her as both are big topic, Martin avoids the matter of her 1994 Miss Teen influences, along with The Cure, Joy Division and My Illinois crown. In fact, artfully steering conversation Bloody Valentine. “I did not set out to reinvent the clear of the subject, she prefers to discuss her music, or wheel, because if I do that, I’m going to make horrible even her history with messy relationships, rather than music. I do what I do. I play keyboards.” her looks. As for her style, she’s perfected a laid-back Martin studied opera at Eastern Illinois University chic of worn jeans and trusty T-shirts, and is game to step before starting to write her own music in college. But her it up a notch. On a recent photo shoot with WWD, Martin interest started early in childhood when her musician happily let the styling team do its thing. “Oh, good,” she parents raised her on the classics. Now, she can hum bits laughed. “They’re going to make me look pretty. I’m such of Rachmaninoff ’s “Rhapsody on a Theme by Paganini” a fashion victim.” ASHION ASSISTANT: ANNE BARRY; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT STYLED BY ANNE BARRY; ASHION ASSISTANT: or “Piano Concerto No. 2 in C Minor” as if on cue. But it’s — Nandini D’Souza & ALLISON LUONGO/BUMBLE FEZ UNDER TIME CAFE; HAIR BY CENTENO AT MIZU FOR BOBBI BROWN/JU BUMBLE; MAKEUP BY TALAYA BY PHOTOGRAPHED F Shop, Look and Listen NEW YORK — All physical evidence to the contrary, Paul Berman plays benevolent fairy godmother to young designers in New York. And although the lanky, 6-foot, 3-inch South African native bears little resemblance to the Good Witch Glenda, his new high-concept store, called 30 Vandam, aims to be a fashion dreamer’s potential ticket out of Oz. Located in the retail no-man’s land west of SoHo, the store functions differently than your average boutique. The 5,000-square-foot site will be both retail space and a showroom for a rotating cast of 55 new designers — including those in men’s, women’s, children’s and home. Stylists and editors looking to borrow are just as welcome as cash-paying customers. Berman moved to New York at the beginning of the year after spending seven years in London. While there, the entrepreneur was involved in a variety of businesses, including hotels and the chocolate industry. He maintains, however, that he always has had “a Here: 30 Vandam’s storefront; passion for fashion.” In fact, while in London, he looked into creating a similar venue for that city’s vast fashion talent, but high real estate prices thwarted his plan. below, an interior look. However, he says, there’s no shortage of creativity Stateside either. “When I moved to New York, I found that there was this massive need for young designers to have a place where they could show and sell their work,” he says. “There’s such a huge pool of talent. And there’s never been a more opportune time, since people are becoming more attuned to finding new brands and something with an edge.” Berman advertised for designers in late summer and received an overwhelming response — more than 1,000 applicants. Along with a selection committee, he whittled the number down to 52. The last three spots are saved for students from Pratt, Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons. The designers cover quite a range: from relatively well-known It Girl shoe designer Kristen Lee to self-styled “eco-fashionista” Sara Cross and her line of organic T-shirts, sweaters and skirts named Coolnotcruel. And while some designers, like Ilse Eriksson, whose Mel En Stel makes use of vintage tablecloths and parachutes, fit the avant-garde image of a young designer, others like Stratton Boloukous, with his Stratton line, play it sleek and chic. By adding stylish extras, such as a florist, chocolate bar, cafe and a DJ booth, to the space, Berman is hoping that people will be tempted to go beyond mere shopping. “I think we’re pioneering a new era for this neighborhood,” he says of the area that was once home to the printing district. “People can come down and buy clothes and then have a coffee and hang out.” — Meenal Mistry PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, DECEMEBR 8, 2003 7 d The Restless

s looking out for New York’s emerging designers and a day at play with Zac Posen. Posen sniffing a Dream Factory scented fabric. WILMINGTON, Del. — One of fashion’s It Boys getting psyched about a seamless sock knitting machine? You bet. And Zac Posen makes no excuses for it. “I’m so excited to be here,” he says, as he enters the spacious factory at Invista’s Textile Research Lab. Dressed in a Yves Saint Laurent suit, cashmere sweater and black baseball hat — and accompanied by his creative director and sister Alex, who’s in a shapely brown suit from the designer’s fall 2003 collection — Posen has come to Invista (formerly DuPont Textiles & Interiors) to scope out the firm’s latest technologies. The fiber giant was a sponsor of the designer’s spring 2004 show. First stop: a conference room with some of the company’s latest on display. Posen reacts like Charlie when he first sees Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory — amused, bewildered and excited. Curious at every turn, he flips through fabrics, tries on cooling armbands, smells scented fabrics and chats with the Invista staff. Posen first discovered leather with Lycra for his fall 2003 collection. “I love the concept of stretch leather,” he says. “Stretch is integral to a collection and always an interest of mine.” For spring 2004 he used it again in three pieces: a pair of pants, a skirt and a shrunken jacket. Next stop: a view of the seamless machines. “I love the idea of seamless because you can do a number of things — jacquard design, ruching or mesh — in one garment. You can also create things for different body shapes.” As one machine spits out another pair of pantyhose — much in the same way as Willy Wonka’s Everlasting Gobstopper contraption — Posen exclaims, “It feels like tulle,” as he playfully places it on his sister’s head like a veil (she is soon to be a bride). The process used on the hosiery “really makes nylon look so modern, it’s so sheer!” he says. “Hosiery is something I’m really interested in doing.” Licensees, are you listening? Next, it’s on to a molding machine. Mostly used to mold and shape bras, the machine meets its match when the designer takes the helm. Armed with a simple fabric, he begins to make different shapes using the technology. While busy creating his masterpiece, he is given a gift: socks with Coolmax and Thermolite A leather with Lycra properties, which keep feet cool and dry in warm or cool temperatures. “Can’t wait to use these,” jacket and skirt from he says. the spring runway. After the tour, it’s back to the conference room to see new developments in seamless, which include examples of active and intimate apparel made with the company’s Illuminae, Supplex and Diablo yarns. Next, Posen is shown the latest in fashion fabrics — the company develops over 300 new concepts each year. First up is an updated Cordura nylon sample. Then comes a rayon, silk and Lycra blend. “I like the luxury of including a natural fiber,” he says. “I think the consumer is still interested in the security of natural fibers.” After likening a graphic pattern to “something on a Mario Bros. game,” Posen eyes another blend, this one paper, cotton and Lycra. He notes its “industrial quality — very ‘Out of Africa.’ It looks like it would be great to tailor with.” He spends the most time, however, looking at a pink silk and Lycra blend. “I love this. I could put this into my collection tomorrow,” he offers. As the day wraps up, talk turns to the future. Would Posen like his own store? “Of course,” says the former Central St. Martins student. “But I feel that the future of retail is at a lower price point, which is fine. I have a big interest in creating a lower-priced line.” That said, what we really want to know is if he ever got the chance to test out those new socks. “I did,” he says. “And I found that my stride never felt so cool!” — Daniela Gilbert

Posen and his sister, Alex, having fun at the molding machine. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003

Accessories Report

ID CHECK: Christian Dior Bridal and Beyond for Vera Wang Jewelry has introduced a FINDINGS jewelry line By Melanie Kletter based on identity bracelets. The name Dior, the carat and the ring’s NEW YORK — With intricate design work, bold identification number are engraved on semiprecious stones and some eye-popping dia- the top side of the ring’s band. It is monds, Vera Wang’s first collection of jewelry is a available in gold, white gold or embedded visual feast of materials and styles. with diamonds. The identity line ranks as “My idea for this jewelry is that it has a timeless one of Dior’s most affordable fine jewelry quality but is also modern and youthful,” said Wang, offerings, with retail prices ranging from $1,160 who is best known for her elegant wedding gowns, in to $10,540. The collection, which is slated to Dior’s new identity ring. an interview. “I have always loved jewelry, and this is launch next February in 30 Dior stores a natural evolution for me.” worldwide, is the first of an entire line of identity bracelet- inspired jewelry. Although Wang previewed select jewelry pieces in her recent spring runway presentation, the final BIG IN JAPAN: New York- touches have just been completed on the full collec- based accessories label tion, which is designed by Wang and produced M.Z. Wallace has under a partnership with Rosy Blue Fine, a opened a flagship in subsidiary of Antwerp-based diamond con- Tokyo’s Ginza district. cern Rosy Blue Inc. The 800-square-foot The initial Vera Wang Fine Jewelry of- unit was created by fering comprises three collections: bridal, architect Annabelle basics and fashion. The bridal collection in- Seldorf, who also cludes sleek bands for men and women designed the company’s in gold or platinum, as well as a range of New York boutique on engagement rings with diamonds in Crosby Street. Lucy different cuts and styles. The basics Wallace Eustice, collection features Art Deco-in- AND THOMAS IANNACCONE MITRA ROBERT ANG PHOTOS BY president and co- W M.Z. Wallace’s Ginza store was created by spired jewelry such as dangling founder, said the Ginza Above: Micropavé rings with semiprecious stones Annabelle Seldorf. earrings and chandeliers as well from Vera Wang Fine Jewelry. Left: A platinum and boutique has a similar as bracelets with large semi- diamond ring. feel to the New York store, with chairs upholstered in camouflage canvas precious stones. The crown corduroy — but also uses local features, including an interior wall jewel of the collection is the high-end independent jewelers and up- constructed from the Ginza building’s exterior tiles. “We wanted the space fashion offerings such as a mi- scale department stores, said to reflect M.Z. Wallace’s spirit without being the same as our New York cropavé diamond flower Koichi Takahashi, presi- store,” said Eustice, who declined to give sales projections for the unit. “We bracelet set in titanium and a dent of Rosy Blue Fine, believe that each store should be a unique experience and also carry designs tassel link necklace. In addi- adding that the jew- made for that location.” The new store is a result of a distribution agreement tion to platinum, materials in elry will be rolled M.Z. Wallace formed with Mitsui in 2001 to increase its wholesale sales and the jewelry include pink and out to additional distribution throughout Japan. The company plans to eventually open a green gold and semiprecious stores for fall and second store in Tokyo, and units in Yokohama, Kobe and Kyoto. stones such as tourmaline even more in 2005. and morganite. He declined to give GOOD TIMING: Luxury watchmakers are the latest fashion companies to get into Wang said she has a person- first-year sales pro- the charity game. Recently, Rolex, Ebel and Audemars Piguet have mounted al passion for jewelry and has jections, but said plans events to honor several leaders in philanthropic pursuits. Last month, Ebel long been a collector of both call for the business to have honored Destiny’s Child singer Kelly Rowland with its second annual Woman vintage and modern pieces. five-year total wholesale sales of Achievement Award in Los Angeles, while Ebel honored six women in six She has also studied jewelry of about $100 million. The jewelry different cities, donating $5,000 to each woman and a portion of retail sales techniques for many years. collection in coming months will be to each of their chosen charities. And last Tuesday, Audemars Piguet co- Although initially stylist L’Wren expanded to include stud earrings and sponsored its second Time to Give benefit for the Afghanistan World Scott was brought in to consult men’s jewelry, and a comprehensive adver- Foundation. As they did with their inaugural event in 2000, the company has on the jewelry, Scott is no longer tising campaign will break in consumer maga- given watches to more than 20 A-list celebrities who have worn and signed involved, and Vera Wang is zines starting with April editions. them. The live auction for these watches raised approximately $700,000. sketching and designing the col- While European houses such as Chanel have Meanwhile, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin launched its first lection completely on her own. long offered fine jewelry along with their ready- exclusively women’s watch, the Egérie, at David Orgell in Beverly Hills, “I am interested in mixing ma- to-wear, and brands like Gucci, Christian Dior and Calif., the first U.S. retailer to carry the timepiece, which will also be terials and proportions,” she said. Louis Vuitton are stepping up their jewelry as- available at Wempe in New York. Egérie, which comes in both 18-karat “I want every piece to have a cer- sortment, there are few American apparel yellow and white gold, with or without pave diamonds and interchangeable tain grace and level of detail.” firms that have forayed into this cate- satin bands, is based on a Vacheron Art Nouveau-style watch from 1912. Retail prices for Vera Wang Fine gory. But that may be changing. In The collection retails from $7,250 to $36,000, and word is that Nicole Jewelry start at about $300 for addition to Wang, Ralph Lauren Kidman has already received one as a thank-you present from the producer some of the basic wedding recently introduced a collec- of her latest film, “Cold Mountain.” bands, and range up to tion of fine jewelry, and de- $200,000, with the bulk of the signers such as Carmen HERMES HORSES AROUND: Speaking of watches, Hermès’ collection selling for be- Marc Valvo and Badgley new watch, Dressage, harkens back to the company’s roots tween $5,000 and $20,000. Mischka have worked with as a saddle maker. The watch, which refers to the The jewelry will initially jewelers to design and elegance and precision of dressage — a type of horse be sold this spring in produce baubles for their dancing — celebrates the 75th anniversary of Hermès about 40 stores, primarily runway shows, a trend watches and was feted at a party last week at the Right: The team behind Vera which has been increas- Madison Avenue store. Dressage has an exclusive Wang Fine Jewelry; Vera Wang, ing in recent seasons. mechanical movement and leather straps, and the seated, with Koichi Takahashi For Wang, jewelry is the case is available in yellow, white, rose gold or of Rosy Blue Fine, Chet latest offering from a design- platinum. Retail prices range from $13,000 to er who has been rapidly ex- $25,400 for the limited edition platinum style. Hazzard of Vera Wang, Yash panding her fashion empire. The bitter cold weather didn’t stop the arrival of a Mehta and Jeanne Daniel, both The 14-year-old company has large crowd, which included Ashley Holzer, who co- of Rosy Blue Fine. moved into a variety of other cate- hosted the party and is an Hermès-sponsored horse gories via licensing, including fra- rider, as well as Cornelia Guest and Miguel Forbes. grance, eyewear, crystal and home, and Ten percent of Dressage watch from Wang has plenty of other ideas percolating. sales from Hermès. “I would love to do bridal accessories,” she Dressage noted. “And lifestyle sportswear.” watches sold at the event were donated Wang’s partner in the jewelry venture is not a to the ASPCA Equine Fund, which household name in fashion circles but is well- protects horses from neglect and abuse. known in the jewelry arena. A siteholder of the “The first half of the year was tough Diamond Trading Corp., the sales arm of De Beers for watches but we are seeing some Group, Rosy Blue Inc. recently has been moving to sales growth now,” said Guillaume de establish brands and expand its business opera- Seynes, president of the La Montres tions. In addition to Vera Wang, Rosy Blue Fine Hermès (the company’s watch division), also owns RosiBlu, a new fine jewelry brand start- who had flown in for the event. “We ed earlier this year. Dilip Mehta, chief executive continue to expand our watch business officer of Rosy Blue Inc., which has annual sales of in the U.S.” over $1 billion and offices all over the world, told Nonetheless, in the recently WWD that Vera Wang jewelry is likely the first of completed third quarter, watches other such partnerships to come from Rosy Blue. Ashley Holzer and remained a tough category for the luxury “We would like to work with other designers,” he Guillaume de Seynes group, with sales dropping 12.7 percent Micropavé diamond and platinum bow earrings with noted. “We are expanding our business now and STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY at the constant exchange rate. morganite drops. we are interested in working with fashion brands.” Extravagance within reach AIL) THE COLLECTION: $40 TO $250 (SUGGESTED RET TO THE COLLECTION: $40

NADRI JEWELRY GROUP 45 WEST 36TH STREET 12TH FLOOR NEW YORK 10018 (212) 683-2972 10 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003

Innerwear Report Lautman Mixes Business With Politics By Jessica Steinberg and then added Victoria’s Secret, Gap, key to the firm’s growth. They’re big believ- That’s not counting the production facilities Banana Republic, Express and J. Crew to ers in their varied menu of design, textile owned or sourced out of Hong Kong, Central CARMIEL, Israel — Dov Lautman, the the mix. A decade later, Lautman realized technology, outsourcing, manufacturing America, the Caribbean, North America Israeli chairman and founder of private he had to match his competition’s ability and marketing. and Eastern Europe. The company is seri- label intimate apparel maker Delta Galil, to produce in lower-cost markets, from It’s also Lautman, according to analysts. ously thinking about extending to China, in never set out to become the spokesman for China to Central America. “Dov Lautman is a real industrialist, this order to match the competition. Israeli-Arab economic relations. But while With a relatively short commute to company is his baby,” said Shachar Brener, During the last decade, acquisitions building up the now $567 million business both Egypt and Jordan, Lautman set up an analyst at Gmul Sahar, a Tel Aviv broker- have become another key part of Delta’s that produces and outsources underwear his first Egyptian factory in Cairo in 1995. age. “You don’t feel that he’s just doing the vertical strategy. The company’s BabyGo and socks in 20 countries, he found that the Three years later, Israel and Jordan rounds and then exiting. It’s his business.” subsidiary in Scotland works with Marks best place to sew seams was in Israel’s established a qualified industrial zone in As such, the Carmiel plant remains the & Spencer, which is still the maker’s backyard. Namely, down south in Egypt and Irbid, Jordan, which facilitated the pro- headquarters for the company. It is here largest customer. There are marketing across the valley in Jordan. duction of duty-free export goods to the that a cadre of 60 in-house Israeli design- and logistics centers in London, Holland It was back in the heady days following U.S. Now, Delta has four plants in Cairo, ers come up with black-and-electric blue- and Spain; outsourcing centers in the the 1993 Oslo peace accord between and 10 sewing plants at the Century Wear veined sock gloves for their “cocktail Dominican Republic and Honduras, and Israel and the Palestinians, and after the headquarters in Irbid, which serves as an party” clubwear collection, and finely now three Delta-owned companies in the signing of the peace treaty between Israel outsourcing arm to the Far East. woven suit socks made on the company’s U.S. in order to better penetrate the and Jordan, that Delta Galil opened a fac- In the last three years of violence new 200-meter machines. The machinery American mass market. At present, more tory in Egypt, and then another in Jordan. between Israel and the Palestinians, is part of Delta’s constant effort to bring than 50 percent of Delta’s products are The peace agreements made it possible, Delta hasn’t felt the surrounding political new technology into the company, making sold in the U.S., 27 percent in the U.K. and but what made the arrangement financially upheaval on its own factory floors, for better-woven, higher-quality knits. In a 9 percent in Europe. viable was Israel’s free-trade agreement according to the company management. given day, 40 200-meter sewing machines “In the end, we sell underwear and with both the U.S. and the European Union, “People came to work and worked shoul- can churn out 5,000 pairs of terry cloth- socks, and we have to understand our mar- as well as the North American Free Trade der to shoulder, Yosef with Yusuf,” said heeled socks for Nike or silken suit socks ket. Europe alone is six or seven different Agreement offering Israel duty-free access Smadar Tadmor, who directs the compa- for several men’s wear clients. markets,” Lautman said. “Twenty-eight to Canada and Mexico. The major advan- ny’s human resources department. “We do it all, from fabrics, design, years ago, a product sold in England tage of the free-trade agreement with the However, the company did put on hold sewing, manufacturing and marketing,” wouldn’t be sold in New York. Now, a prod- U.S. is that it grants Israel rules of origin Tiberg said. “Our business is underwear uct in England has to be in New York.” benefits that allow a garment to be cut in Today was to be a and that is all about fabrics and styles. For now, say Lautman and Tiberg, the Israel, sewn in a low-cost country and still “ People want comfortable underwear. So plan is to keep moving into the mass mar- enter the U.S. duty free. that’s what we invest in.” ket retailing of Wal-Mart and Target. In For Delta and several other Israeli time when things would According to Tiberg, the company 2000, Delta purchased U.S.-based Wundies, apparel companies, it made sense to keep could never have succeeded without mov- and then Inner Secrets, a New Jersey- their headquarters in Israel, where cut- be different. When ing its production to the low-cost labor based manufacturer of private label bras ting-edge design teams, new technologies business would come markets of Jordan, Egypt and Turkey, and underwear catering to Target, Wal- and loyal Delta’im — a Hebrew-ish expres- which he refers to as the JET countries. Mart and Kmart. Last month, the company sion for Delta managers and employees — Currently, 21 percent of Delta’s goods are bought Auburn Hosiery Mills from keep the company on its toes. before politics. manufactured in the JET countries, com- Kellwood Co. Auburn manufactures sport But a steadily rising minimum wage — Dov Lautman,” Delta Galil pared with only 8 percent in 1996, while socks for Wilson and Converse; Delta sold and stiff competition from abroad made production in Israel has fallen to 55.8 per- $86 million worth of socks in 2002. Lautman look for cheaper sewing labor. plans for a factory in the Palestinian cent from 73 percent in 1996. Tiberg says It isn’t easy for an Israeli company to Not surprisingly, he found it in Jordan Authority, given the uncertainty of the pres- that without the peace process and the enter the American mass market, say the and Egypt. ent situation in the region. For Lautman, availability of Jordan and Egypt, Delta Israeli analysts covering Delta. “There’s a relative advantage to being who has made Israel-Arab economic rela- would have been forced to move its man- “You don’t just knock on Target and based in the Galilee, which is so close to tions into his pet project, it is a frustrat- ufacturing to Eastern Europe. Wal-Mart’s doors and say, ‘I want to work Jordan. It’s a matter of hours,” said ing situation. “Their decision was to manufacture in with you,’ ” said Brener. “They knew that Lautman, referring to the several-hour “Today was to be a time when things cheaper places and slice the pie,” said and bought companies that could work drive from Delta’s headquarters in would be different,” he said. “When busi- Sophie Galper, an analyst at Ilanot with those retailers.” Carmiel over the nearby Sheikh Hussein ness would come before politics.” Batucha, a Tel Aviv-based brokerage. “It Apparel is a tough market, but Delta is bridge and into Jordan. “That’s an advan- It’s certainly the priority at Delta Galil, allows Delta to go and buy failing compa- strategically very strong, added Galper. tage that none of our competitors have.” which has become an important production nies in some places and make them more “Mass market was the right direction,” When Lautman founded Delta Galil in source for major designer names, such as efficient and profitable in the long run.” she said, “and they prepared for it before 1975, he looked for cheap land and avail- Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Tommy But their Middle Eastern location allows the downturn began.” able labor and found it in the lower Hilfiger, and is expanding its business in the them to profit from places that others can’t With the recent acquisitions, Delta will Galilee, the area of Israel that is known for mass market. reach, such as Jordan and Egypt, Galper increase its U.S. sales to more than 50 per- its mostly comfortable population mix of With declines in the specialty and said. “That’s their magic,” she added. cent of its total and expand its U.S. pres- Israeli Jews, Israeli Arabs and Druze, all department store markets, Delta has Better for Delta, but tough on the local ence. In 2003, Delta had $172 million in of whom work together at the company fac- watched its sales decrease slightly this Israeli textile industry, which began suffer- sales from the mass market, a 20 percent tory. Delta first made men’s underwear; year. Although year-to-date sales were up ing cutbacks, layoffs and closures in the last jump from $143 million a year earlier. but given Israel’s tiny market, the compa- 4.6 percent to $426.6 million, the company decade. Delta, for instance, closed several “I believe our expansion into Target ny exported nearly all of its products. Even reported a 2 percent decline in its third- smaller factories in Israel when it made and Wal-Mart could be huge,” said now, only 8 percent of the hosiery, under- quarter sales, to $148.7 million from $152 more sense to keep outsourcing to Egypt Lautman, who still retains ownership of wear and intimate apparel made by Galil million a year earlier, as revenue from and Jordan, or Romania and Honduras, about 35 percent of the company; Sara is sold in Israel, and that is primarily in U.S. customers such as Victoria’s Secret rather than paying the high minimum Lee Corp. owns 23 percent and the rest is the last few years. and J.C. Penney dropped sharply. wages of blue-collar laborers in Israel. traded in Tel Aviv and New York. “It’s By 1980, Delta Galil was making under- Lautman and chief executive officer For now, there are 4,000 Delta employees what Delta does best. It gives us a balance. wear for British retailer Marks & Spencer, Arnon Tiberg say vertical integration is a in Egypt, 2,500 in Jordan and 3,000 in Israel. We’re everything from mass to couture.”

Maidenform’s Tom at advertising companies including J. Walter Thompson and Ward and Maurice Foote Cone & Belding, managing accounts like Burger King, INTIMATE NOTES Reznikik withwith Wallpapers To Go and Eddie Bauer. WONDERFUL TOWN: It was a celebrity-filled lineup for the Nov. Lauren Bacall. 23 opening night of the 1953 Broadway musical, “Wonderful TO SLEEP, PERCHANCE: Based on a scientific study of sleep, Town,” at the Al Hirschfeld Theater in Manhattan. Maidenform Wacoal Japan has come up with a new type of bra for wearing Inc. was the title sponsor of the after-show party for 750 guests in bed. at the Mandarin Orange Hotel, where the firm contributed the The new bra for sleeping comfort does not use any metal or gift bags featuring a Maidenform bra and panties, among other plastic materials and the bra cup is designed in such a manner related items. that the bust will not move excessively even when the wearer The revival of “Wonderful Town” featured music by Leonard turns in her sleep, Wacoal explained. Bernstein. The show originally starred Rosalind Russell and Previously, Wacoal had advised that wearers remove their Edie Adams, and was a multiple Tony Award winner. bras when sleeping. But the company decided to develop the The star-studded soiree included Lauren Bacall, James Earl For-Sleep bra because a study it conducted demonstrated that Jones, Patrick Stewart, Eartha Kitt, Mario Cantone, Delta about 31 percent of women said they wear bras while sleeping. Burke, Brian Stokes Mitchell and Harvey Weinstein. The stars Some 63 percent of women who do not wear bras while of the musical also were on hand for the party, including Donna sleeping said they take the bras off because they want to feel Murphy and Jennifer Westfeldt. free of tightness. Cronan brings to the KN company more than 20 years Many said they were dissatisfied with bras presently CRONAN JOINS NEUBURGER: Maureen Cronan has been named to experience in advertising, marketing and public relations. In her available. The main reasons: a tight feeling underneath the bust the new post of vice president of marketing at KN Ltd. She will new role, she will oversee all U.S. marketing activities. and contact with an underwire. report to Karen Neuburger, founder and designer of the Prior to joining KN, Cronan spent seven years working in The new For-Sleep bra will be available to the Japanese sleepwear, intimate apparel, loungewear, bedding and home financial marketing with companies such as Charles Schwab & market in January. Suggested retail will range from $20.09 to accessories firm. Co. and Montgomery Asset Co. Earlier, she held executive posts $30, based on current exchange rates with the yen. WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 11

president and general merchandise manager for women’s, in- Kmart Logs Wal-Mart’s Don Harris Sets Retirement fants and girls apparel, and Lois Mikita, senior vice president and By Katherine Bowers has managed the company’s suc- right private label merchandise general merchandise manager of Smaller Loss cessful foray into food, in charge was recognized this past January, men’s and boy’s apparel and BOSTON — Don Harris, execu- of hardlines and food. when she won the Sam M. Walton home goods, will report to Watts. In Quarter tive vice president of general Both Degn and Watts, who Entrepreneur of the Year award Degn, 46, has been with the merchandise over Wal-Mart’s previously reported to Harris, at the firm’s semiannual man- firm since 1983, working his way U.S. store base, will retire in have begun reporting to Duke. agers meeting in Kansas City, Mo. up through its pharmacy opera- By Vicki M. Young April, the retailer said Friday. Watts, whose title becomes exec- Watts has been particularly tions. Although his title remains Harris, a 23-year veteran, is utive vice president of merchan- successful with junior lifestyle executive vice president of food NEW YORK — Kmart Holdings second in command behind dising, will also join the retailer’s brand No Boundaries, which in- merchandising, Degn will add Corp. on Friday posted a narrow- Mike Duke, president and chief executive committee cludes everything from sports- toys, electronics, sporting goods, er third-quarter loss than its executive officer of Wal-Mart The promotion and appoint- wear to sheet sets. One of her lawn and garden and entertain- bankrupt predecessor company Stores. In a statement, Harris, ment to executive committee key challenges will be to contin- ment to his responsibilities. Degn did a year ago, but same-store 46, said he was retiring to spend confirms Watts, 43, as a rising ue to build the profile of George, has been lauded for his oversight sales continued sliding as the re- more time with family. star. She is one of the few women the contemporary line designed of food merchandising and distri- tailer opted for fewer promotion- After Harris steps down, the to break into the top ranks of the by Wal-Mart’s British subsidiary bution, an integral component of al events. company will essentially divide world’s largest company. ASDA, in the U.S. the company’s highly profitable The company also disclosed his job, putting Claire Watts, who A recruit from Limited In her new role, Watts will supercenter expansion. in a regulatory filing that it was runs the company’s private label Brands in 1997, Watts’ work set- oversee all the firm’s apparel Degn received the Sam M. closing a distribution center to apparel programs, in charge of ting up a design department and and home brands. Walton Entrepreneur of the “improve productivity and effi- softlines, and Doug Degn, who getting it to produce more trend- Both Celia Clancy, senior vice Year award in 1997. ciency.” It reported that the closure will have no material impact on its financial condition or its operating results. The unit to be shuttered is in Billerica, Mass., and about 250 hourly employees and 40 management employees were notified of the decision on Tuesday, according to a Kmart spokesman. Following the closure, in Febru- ary 2004 upon expiration of the lease, Kmart will still operate 16 distribution centers and more than 1,500 stores in 49 states and will employ 170,000 associates. For the three months ended Oct. 29, the firm lost $23 million, or 26 cents a diluted share, compared with a $383 million loss last year, or 74 cents, in the year- ago quarter. The loss before interest, reorganization items, income taxes and discontinued operations was $10 million versus last year’s $328 million loss. Sales in the quarter fell by 21.2 percent to $5.09 billion from $6.46 billion last year, attributa- ble in part to the closure of 316 stores during the first quarter of 2003. On a same-store basis, comps declined by 8.6 percent. Kmart said the decrease in comps is due to the elimination of certain company-wide promotions and the reduction in the frequency of midweek advertising circulars this year. Julian Day, president and chief executive officer, said in a statement, “Our focus on profitable sales and a consequent reduction in losses from clearance sales and promotional events re- ACCESSORIESTHESHOW sulted in a decrease in same- store sales in the third quarter. The marketplace for hot, new directions in edited accessories The actions we have taken to drive profitability contributed to a midteens decline in November Shop over 800 lines of edited accessories sale-store sales, but allowed us to operate the company prof- itably in November 2003.” JANUARY 11-13, 2004 For the nine months, the loss JAVITS CENTER, MANHATTAN was $890 million, or $1.97, versus a staggering $2.12 billion, or Spring/Summer 2004 Collections $4.21, a year ago. The retailer said the loss was $28 million for Sunday - Monday 9am-6pm, Tuesday 9am-5pm the 26 weeks ended Oct. 29 and 800-358-6678 • accessoriestheshow.com • exhibiting 212-686-4412 ext. 408 $862 million for the 13 weeks ended April 30 while the company was still operating under bankruptcy court supervision. Sales fell by 18.7 percent to $16.93 billion from $20.82 billion. Sales for the 26-week period were $10.74 billion and $6.18 billion for the 13-week period during bankruptcy court protection. Kmart also said in the regulatory filing that it filed a lawsuit against Capital One on Nov. 7 in a Detroit federal court in connec- Also shop , our juried ready-to-wear show running concurrently at the Javits Center tion with an agreement the parties had over the marketing and AccessoriesTheShow and Moda Manhattan are properties of Business Journals, Inc. co-branding of a Kmart Master- Card. The discounter is seeking monetary damages. 12 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003

Financial THIRD-QUARTER RETAIL RESULTS Retailers Report Better 3rd Qtr. By Dan Burrows COMPANY EARNINGS CHANGE SALES CHANGE SAME-STORE NEW YORK — Better retailers, discounters and off-pricers domi- nated same-store sales results during the third quarter as consumers played both ends against the middle. Abercrombie & Fitch $51 5.8% $445 6.1% -9.0% However, it was the better and specialty segments that wound Aeropostale 22 45.8% 220 30.1% 5.2% up with the biggest gains once the focus shifted to the all-important bottom line. American Eagle (1) 10 -62.5% 374 -0.2% -10.3% A sample of third-quarter results from across the price-point galaxy showed that, as a whole, retailers enjoyed robust bottom- Ann Taylor 30 21.7% 397 16.6% 6.2% line growth over last year’s third quarter, and produced good, if not great, top-line and comparable-store sales improvements as well. Bon-Ton (2) (2) v. profit 181 7.7% -0.8% Taken together, 31 retailers covered in a WWD survey achieved Cato (3) 1 -85.3% 157 -3.1% -10.0% a cumulative increase in net earnings of 30.5 percent versus the prior-year period. Excluding the leviathan Wal-Mart Stores, whose Charming Shoppes 2 v. loss 530 -2.2% 0.0% massive earnings of $2.03 billion tend to skew the results, the ag- gregate profits of the remaining 30 firms soared 60.1 percent over Chico’s FAS (4) 27 72.2% 211 53.4% 16.3% last year’s third quarter. Of the retailers studied, 20 had profit in- Claire’s 25 104.3% 264 14.8% 8.0% creases, seven had profit decreases and four incurred net losses. In an indication that the industry-wide cost-cutting activities of Dillard’s (16) v. loss 1,765 -1.7% -2.0% the last few years have led to greater efficiency, cumulative sales by comparison rose a much more modest 7.5 percent. Excluding Wal- Federated (5) 67 -36.8% 3,486 0.2% 0.3% Mart’s top-line contribution, sales advanced just 2.5 percent against Gap 263 94.1%3,929 7.8% 6.0% last year. Overall, 22 retailers surveyed had sales increases and nine had sales decreases. As for same-store sales, 18 posted gains, 12 regis- Hot Topic 15 52.0% 162 31.8% 10.8% tered declines and one, Charming Shoppes, was flat versus last year. The company producing the greatest year-over-year earnings J.C. Penney (6) 80 -35.0% 7,985 1.4% 1.7% improvement was specialty stalwart Limited Brands, which saw Kmart (23) v. loss 5,092 -21.2% -8.6% profits skyrocket 722 percent to $129.7 million. Even on an adjusted basis, Limited’s net income earnings surged 326.8 percent Kohl’s (7) 121 -9.1% 2,394 11.7% -1.3% to $44.3 million from $10.4 million a year ago. But Limited wasn’t the only specialty retailer generating gar- Limited (8) 130 722.0% 1,847 4.5% 2.0% gantuan bottom-line gains. Ranking the 31 companies by per- May Co. (9) 47 193.8% 2,976 -0.5% -2.4% centage of profit increases, specialty retailers claimed six of the top 10 spots in the survey, as Claire’s profits more than doubled Neiman Marcus* (10) 56 97.1% 825 12.4% 10.7% to $24.3 million, Gap’s net income rose 94.1 percent to $262.6 million, Chico’s earnings grew 72.2 percent to $26.8 million, Nordstrom 45 146.8%1,421 7.4% 5.0% Pacific Sunwear’s profits increased 54.1 percent to $24.5 mil- Pacific Sunwear 25 54.1% 281 23.2% 13.8% lion and Hot Topic reported a 52 percent expansion in profits to $15.3 million. Ross Stores 50 12.0% 977 12.3% 2.0% Also claiming stake to the top 10 were better players Saks, Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, whose profits grew 542.7 per- Saks (11) 12 542.7% 1,467 4.3% 3.1% cent, 146.8 percent and 97.1 percent, respectively, and department store operator May Department Stores Co. with a 193.8 Sears (12) 147 -22.2% 9,794 1.3% 1.2% percent increase in net income. ShopKo 1 9.9% 759 -1.4% -1.3% While hybrid chain Kohl’s said profits fell 9.1 percent to $121.2 million, discounters and off-pricers reported solid year-over-year Stage Stores (13) 13 26.4% 198 -3.2% -7.1% earnings growth. TJX Cos., for example, reported a 24.1 percent increase to $182.8 million, Wal-Mart saw earnings climb 12.9 per- Stein Mart (14) (10) v. loss 316 -5.1% -5.8% cent to the aforesaid $2.03 billion, Ross Stores posted a 12 per- Talbots 35 -7.0%408 1.6% -4.5% cent gain in income to $50.5 million and Target said earnings advanced 9 percent to $302 million. Perhaps most notably, when it Target 302 9.0% 11,286 10.7% 4.3% comes to squeezing the most profit out of top-line results, the specialty segment is dominant. Looking at earnings as a per- TJX (15) 183 24.1% 3,387 11.2% 3.0% centage of sales — or net margin, if you will — Chico’s ran away Wal-Mart (16) 2,028 12.9% 63,035 13.0% 6.1% from the pack, boasting a 12.7 percent return on revenues. Abercrombie & Fitch was a close second with 11.3 percent, and Aeropostale, Claire’s and Hot Topic filled out the top five with *Q1 RESULTS. EARNINGS AND SALES FIGURES IN MILLIONS OF DOLLARS. PARENTHESES INDICATE NET LOSSES. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. 9.9 percent, 9.6 percent and 9.5 percent, respectively. Pac Sun FOOTNOTES: 1 - EARNINGS INCLUDED A NONCASH GOODWILL IMPAIRMENT CHARGE OF $8 MILLION, OR 11 CENTS. 2 - NET LOSS INCLUDED A $2.3 MILLION PRETAX CHARGE FOR came in at number six with earnings as a percentage of sales at ASSET IMPAIRMENT RELATED TO THE ACQUISITION OF ELDER-BEERMAN STORES CORP. 3 - EXCLUDING CHARGES, EARNINGS PER SHARE WOULD HAVE TRANSLATED TO A LOSS OF 1 8.7 percent, Talbots was number seven with 8.5 percent and Ann CENT. 4 - RESULTS INCLUDED A ONE-TIME PRETAX CHARGE OF $3.6 MILLION. 5 - EXCLUDING YEAR-AGO INCOME FROM DISCONTINUED OPERATIONS, PRIOR-YEAR NET INCOME WOULD HAVE BEEN $75 MILLION. 6 - SAME-STORE SALES FOR DEPARTMENT STORES ONLY. 7 - YEAR-AGO RESULTS FROM THE FIRM’S PREDECESSOR COMPANY. 8 - ON AN Taylor returned 7.6 percent of earnings as a percentage of sales. ADJUSTED BASIS, EARNINGS INCREASED 326.8 PERCENT TO $44.3 MILLION, OR 8 CENTS, VERSUS $10.4 MILLION, OR 2 CENTS, LAST YEAR. 9 - EXCLUDING AFTERTAX CHARGES OF Limited ranked number nine at 7 percent and Neiman Marcus $6 MILLION, OR 1 CENT, THIS YEAR, AND $9 MILLION, OR 2 CENTS, A YEAR AGO, NET INCOME WOULD HAVE INCREASED 131.8 PERCENT TO $51 MILLION, OR 16 CENTS, FROM $22 finished the top 10 with a 6.8 percent net margin, which just MILLION, OR 7 CENTS. 10 - EXCLUDING A CHANGE IN ACCOUNTING PRINCIPLE LAST YEAR, EARNINGS WOULD HAVE INCREASED 29.8 PERCENT FROM $43.3 MILLION, OR 91 CENTS. 11 - SAME-STORE SALES COMPRISE A 1.8 PERCENT INCREASE AT SAKS DEPARTMENT STORES GROUP AND A 5 PERCENT INCREASE AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE ENTERPRISES. THIS beat out Gap at 6.7 percent. YEAR’S THIRD QUARTER INCLUDED AN AFTERTAX NET GAIN OF $5.5 MILLION, OR 4 CENTS. LAST YEAR’S QUARTER INCLUDED AFTERTAX CHARGES OF $2.6 MILLION, OR 2 CENTS. 12 - Their assortments may not overlap, but Nordstrom and Wal- EXCLUDING PRETAX CHARGES OF $141 MILLION, OR 32 CENTS, SEARS WOULD HAVE RECORDED THIRD-QUARTER EPS OF 84 CENTS. 13 - RESULTS INCLUDED AN AFTERTAX NET GAIN OF $7.8 MILLION, OR 38 CENTS, AND AN AFTERTAX CHARGE OF $500,000. 14 - EXCLUDING THE IMPACT OF STORE CLOSINGS, STEIN MART WOULD HAVE RECORDED A NET LOSS OF Mart actually had something in common in the third quarter: 11 CENTS A SHARE. 15 - YEAR-AGO THIRD QUARTER INCLUDED AN AFTERTAX CHARGE OF $10 MILLION, OR 2 CENTS. 16 - SAME-STORE SALES COMPRISE A 5.7 PERCENT INCREASE They both returned 3.2 cents on every sales dollar. AT WAL-MART STORES AND AN 8 PERCENT INCREASE AT SAM’S CLUBS. Winning Strategy.

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Capital Factors is part of the Union Planters Bank family, with over $34.5 billion in assets. Good Listeners. Good Lenders. WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 13 Long-Term Outlook Still Critical Continued from page one more pump-priming from the economy as improving? Has the mately pay a steep price for The difference, he noted, is progress in job creation and government, the roadmap isn’t U.S. economy actually moved squeezing too much out of an “profound” because the former, other fiscal fundamentals. very clear.” into a “hot zone” of a cyclical re- unbalanced economy.” apart from margin debt, is fund- Optimism is limited and Loeb said he’s yet to see ei- covery? Perhaps it has for the Roach noted in the same re- ed mostly from a psychological somewhat fragile, they note. Just ther significant job creation or short term, but the long-term pic- port that America’s net private sense of well-being. In the lat- as expectations for the holiday the levels of capital spending ture is less clear. saving rate for consumers and ter, mortgage debt and frequent season rose with a strong Black needed to sustain GDP growth. Stephen Roach, chief econo- business combined, net of de- refinancing are the principal Friday performance but fell with The latest data available sug- mist at Morgan Stanley, wrote in a preciation, is 5 percent of GDP, means of extracting incremen- last week’s reports on November gests the economy will grow vig- research note: “In a classic pre- well below the 9 percent average tal purchasing power from retail sales, rays of sunshine on orously in the fourth quarter election gambit, Washington has in the Sixties. In contrast with housing assets. the economic landscape could after its robust 8.2 percent pulled out all the stops in the past, America also is now For Roach, the new cultural be eclipsed by dark clouds if advance in the third. order to resuscitate what more dependent on foreign sav- phenomenon of excess leverage consumers don’t see convincing However, more than had been an unusually ings to fill the void, leaving open may mean that the ultimate evidence that the bounce back 2 million Americans sluggish economy. On the possibility that we may see post-bubble payback may be all from an economic slump is real. remain unemployed Foreforecast the surface, the re- higher interest rates in order to the more severe, particularly if While recent data about jobs for 27 weeks or more, turns appear most adequately compensate foreign the U.S. current-account deficit and gross domestic product have according to the encouraging, 8.2 per- investors for keeping their in- sparks the consequences of provided hopeful signs about the Bureau of Labor cent GDP growth in vestment money on our shores. higher interest rates. nation’s finances, an uneasy feel- Statistics. U.S. job-cut [the third quarter of Of course, any spike in inter- Roach concluded in his re- ing remains among consumers announcements 2003] and vigorous fol- est rates would impact what port: “America’s newfound and those who study their behav- dropped in November to’04 low-through in the month- Roach believes is another prob- cyclical vigor is hardly an acci- ior. That nervousness was under- 99,452 jobs lost versus 171,874 ly data that points to spillover lem in our economic system: dent. Washington has learned scored last month, when retail fig- in October, according to Chicago- into the 4 to 5 percent range in American households have led an important lesson from the ures for November revealed based Challenger, Gray & [the fourth quarter]. the charge in using debt to drive early Nineties. Eight years ago, strength at the high end but weak- Christmas. Yet, initial applica- “While it’s tempting to ex- the U.S. economy. the credo was, ‘It’s the economy, ness among low- and middle-in- tions for U.S. jobless benefits un- trapolate into the future on the He explained that during the stupid.’ This year, it’s, ‘It’s poli- come consumers as Sears, expectedly rose during the basis of this seemingly spectacu- latter half of the Nineties, tics, stupid.’ Deep in our hearts, Roebuck & Co., Kohl’s and other Thanksgiving week, with the lar upturn, there’s still good rea- American consumption shifted we all know predicting the fu- moderate retailers failed to meet number of Americans claiming son to be cautious, in my view,” from being income-driven to ture is next to impossible. It analysts’ expectations, their own benefits rising to 365,000 from a he stated. “Two related issues one that was increasingly stretches the imagination to plans or both. revised 354,000 in the prior week. keep me awake at night — the wealth dependent. Once the eq- conjure up a macro scenario December may very well pro- Employment statistics are quality and sustainability of this uity bubble popped with the that is based on an exquisitely duce the 4 to 5 percent gains in often a lagging indicator but rebound. On both counts, I technology bust, wealth shifted timed interplay of political and holiday sales that many antici- there are still nearly 9 million worry that the U.S. will ulti- toward the property markets. economic cycles. pated for the holiday season, people unemployed, and non- but that won’t alter deep-seated farm payroll growth last month uneasiness about jobs, house- increased by just 57,000, far hold finances or unsettling po- short of economic forecasts of litical news from overseas. 150,000. The number of jobs “That uncertainty will carry needed each month just to stay TIME IS MONEY. through most of 2004, without even and keep unemployment at any dramatic robust growth in 6 percent is 150,000. numbers over 2003,” predicted A further concern is the Andy Moser, senior managing Temporary Emergency Unem- WE GIVE YOU MORE OF BOTH. director of GMAC Commercial ployment Compensation pro- Finance, Retail Finance Group. gram. After two extensions, the “Will consumers be willing to program, which has provided take on more debt next year? about $900 million a month in Much more nimble, independent and streamlined than Yes, and that means that eco- benefits to those whose state- nomic growth will be fueled by paid stipends have ended, is set banks, we’re the financial backbone of sophisticated, consumer debt. But consumers to expire at the end of the month successful businesses all over the globe. Our clients will remain nervous right up barring another extension. through the election.” According to Loeb: “A con- benefit from customized financial solutions and the He expects some election-re- sumer without benefits will be a breadth of services that we provide. We are known for lated job creation, “but not any- very unhappy person who will thing significant,” and professes not be spending in the stores our expertise in: concern about real wage growth, until there is a job in hand.” the principal generator of dis- Andrew Jassin, co-founder of Factoring: cretionary spending. consulting firm The Jassin- “My great fear,” he added, “is O’Rourke Group, believes con- • Full-Service Factoring and Accounts Receivable what happens in 2005. It will be sumers have very little confi- Management Services Unless we see more capital spending • Web-Based “Factronics” System for fast credit approvals “ • Advance, Collection & Maturity Factoring by businesses and more pump-priming • Trade Finance Services (Letter of Credit) from the government, the roadmap isn’t Asset-Based Lending: very clear. • Loan/Revolving Credit Lines secured by receivables, ” — Walter Loeb inventory, or other acceptable collateral • Debtor-In-Possession Financing a post-election year, and it is dence in the security of their jobs, hard to imagine what we will and with the first of the Baby • Bridge Real Estate Loans see economically because Boomer generation getting ready there’s still an unknown regard- for retirement in a few years, Find out how the Rosenthal & Rosenthal equation will ing the presidency.” more will become concerned with enable your company not just to thrive, but to conquer. Moser noted that, while the medical costs, retirement assets numbers coming out of Washington and Social Security payments. look better, retail and apparel ex- “A good amount of thought on ecutives remain cautious. They where to spend their disposable STRATEGIES. SOLUTIONS. SERVICE. hear about economic growth, but income will be focused more on “they haven’t seen it yet.” nonfashion items, such as im- Walter Loeb, a retail consult- proving the quality of their stan- Contact: ant of the firm that bears his dard of living,” Jassin said. Michael Stanley 212-356-1497 Executive Vice President, Factoring name, said, “I am convinced that “They want to eat well, be Sheldon Kaye 212-356-1481 Executive Vice President, Asset-Based Lending 2004 will be a good year. We’ll be healthy and travel. Those dol- in an election year so you expect lars have to come from some- some pump priming someplace where, and it will be coming out in order for President Bush to of fashion to a large degree.” get reelected. If priorities are shifting for Rosenthal & Rosenthal, Inc. “My concern is afterwards, in those discretionary dollars 1370 Broadway, New York, NY 10018 • www.rosenthalinc.com 2005. I am more concerned about against a backdrop of govern- consumer spending in 2005 than ment statistics that say produc- in 2004. Unless we see more capi- tivity is at an all-time high, tal spending by businesses and should Americans regard the 14 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt J. Crew: A Step Back to Move Forward High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers By Jennifer Weitzman essary cost of our turnaround.” where her last post was execu- 14.59 3.39 Bon-Ton Stores 15.2 6030 10.88 -2.55 Other changes include less tive vice president of circulation 17.80 12.32 Dillard’s 43.7 40063 15.46 -1.39 NEW YORK — No one ever said promotional activity at the direct and international. 50.60 23.51 Federated 16.1 125773 47.11 -1.98 turnarounds were cheap. and retail businesses and the in- Customers can also expect a 4.00 0.94 Gottschalks - 749 3.77 -0.09 J. Crew on Friday reported a troduction of same- price selling better experience in all of its 25.88 15.57 J.C. Penney 24.0 126632 24.35 -0.53 loss in its third quarter, but com- in all of its channels, which has channels, officials said. Crew 30.82 17.81 May Dept. Stores 16.8 98812 28.43 -1.22 pany executives asserted that significantly improved the cus- has made changes to its logis- the results reflect its strategy to tomer experience. tics systems in the last quarter 6.30 1.48 Retail Ventures - 4244 4.97 -0.43 upgrade its operations and mer- Chief operating officer Scott to improve delivery times to its 15.81 6.66 Saks 29.5 74179 13.75 -1.63 chandise. Gilbertson said on a conference retail stores. It is now able to 56.06 18.25 Sears 10.8 360799 48.96 -6.20 The New York-based firm 41.80 25.60 Target 21.5 246465 39.19 0.47 suffered a $23.6 million loss in 60.20 46.25 Wal-Mart 26.5 901611 53.48 -2.16 the third quarter ended Nov. 1, These results are a necessary cost of compared to a loss of $700,000 in “ Softline Retailers the year-ago quarter. Sales for our turnaround. 40.79 17.05 Ann Taylor 20.2 63454 38.55 -1.19 the period were slashed by 20.5 ” 5.97 0.70 Bluefly - 43979 3.77 -1.01 percent to $151 million from — Millard Drexler, J. Crew 22.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 14.2 2641 20.75 -0.35 $189.9 million. By division, re- 6.85 2.70 Charming Shoppes 18.7 45059 5.63 -0.60 tail sales fell 6.2 percent to $94.4 call that Crew has made im- replenish inventory on a weekly 39.43 16.75 Chico’s FAS 33.3 105470 35.01 -3.37 million and fell 9 percent on a provements to its working cap- basis, instead of two weeks. It 15.23 12.20 Dress Barn 58.5 3249 14.63 0.18 same-store sales basis. Direct ital position, with year-over- also put a process in place for a 22.77 9.28 Foot Locker 16.8 111862 21.42 -0.68 sales fell 47.3 percent to $31.6 year free cash flow at the end faster replenishment on a next-, 22.01 12.01 Gap 20.1 269848 20.95 -0.55 million, with decreases in both of the quarter up $20 million second- or third-day basis, as 65.44 44.50 Kohl’s 25.4 408793 47.35 -0.97 Internet and catalogue sales, and inventories down by $46 needed. 18.46 10.88 Limited Brands 17.0 127095 17.62 -0.30 and factory sales fell by 4.7 per- million. Gilbertson said that, given the 55.25 25.90 Neiman Marcus Group 18.1 8396 51.81 -2.09 cent to $20.3 million. Other additions on the finan- magnitude of the strategic 35.50 15.00 Nordstrom 23.3 74857 33.70 -0.80 The company, which oper- cial front include a $20 million changes, the firm remains cau- ates a fleet of 154 stores, said it investment by Drexler and tious yet optimistic about the 24.56 10.74 Pacific Sunwear 23.7 110390 21.06 -1.76 has made significant strategic Texas Pacific Group, Crew’s pri- outlook for the balance of the 56.15 32.58 Ross Stores 19.4 45967 52.90 -1.88 changes to the business since mary owner, in February in the year. He noted November retail 8.40 6.02 Syms - 328 6.99 0.05 new management, including form of an exchangeable debt in- sales fell 11 percent to $65 mil- 38.65 22.00 Talbots 15.8 21092 31.17 -1.60 Millard “Mickey” Drexler, strument, an amended working lion from $73 million in 23.70 15.54 TJX 19.6 184750 21.41 -1.18 chairman and chief executive, capital facility to reduce mini- November 2002 and were off 1 took over in February. Among mum EBITDA levels and a re- percent down on a comparable- Vendors the measures taken are upgrad- cent exchange offer for its out- store basis. Factory comps last 64.40 47.08 Alberto Culver 22.5 11085 61.90 0.83 ing the quality and style of the standing 13 1/8 senior subordi- month improved 23 percent, off- 69.75 48.93 Avon 27.0 39129 68.07 -0.43 merchandise assortment, which nated debentures. set by a 36 percent decrease at 22.70 13.65 Cherokee 13.2 691 21.76 -0.69 started to hit the store’s shelves The latter was accepted by the direct channels. Merch- 40.84 14.52 Coach 40.8 123473 36.70 -3.14 in July, and liquidating carry- almost all of its bondholders andise margins improved 300 59.39 31.55 Columbia Sportswear 18.7 11983 55.25 -4.03 over inventory, which reduced and will reduce Crew’s annual basis points. 29.29 16.29 Del Laboratories 12.6 236 24.60 0.45 merchandise margins in the cash interest expense by $16 For the nine months, Crew’s 40.20 25.40 Estée Lauder 29.7 33876 38.94 0.94 first half of the year by 580 million annually during the pe- loss widened to $28 million from 30.20 15.95 Fossil 21.1 9021 27.59 -1.55 basis points. riod between 2003 and 2005. $19.9 million and overall sales 12.00 4.62 G-III 15.6 1092 9.42 -1.03 Since then, there have been Crew has also added fresh depleted 8.6 percent to $479.5 99.80 83.91 Gucci 30.6 6241 85.35 0.39 signs of progress — merchan- blood to its ranks. As reported, million from $524.5 million. 15.60 3.30 Guess - 10659 13.76 -0.44 dise margins improved 200 basis Roxane Al-Fayez joined Crew on Drexler said, “We remain ab- 37.44 25.61 Jones Apparel 13.3 57037 33.25 -1.25 points in the third quarter and Oct. 20 in the new post of vice solutely focused on upgrading sales of full-price merchandise president of catalogue and e- the quality and style of our 40.27 22.65 Kellwood 30.2 10788 38.76 0.52 improved 30 percent. commerce, reporting to Drexler. merchandise and we are 31.40 18.55 Kenneth Cole 18.7 5598 28.85 -1.05 “From my experience, a turn- Al-Fayez spent six years at Gap pleased with initial customer 38.90 26.23 Liz Claiborne 14.0 40860 34.82 -0.19 around requires tough medicine Inc., most recently as vice presi- response. They are clearly 7.00 3.40 Mossimo 8.3 1431 4.76 -0.19 that is not without painful side dent of operations for Gap noticing the improvements in 29.80 17.30 Movado 16.7 1745 29.42 2.23 effects,” Drexler said in a state- Direct. Prior to that, she spent our merchandise, catalogues, 35.83 11.01 Oxford 22.6 5867 32.60 -1.54 ment. “These results are a nec- nine years at Victoria’s Secret, online and stores.” 18.20 11.16 Phillips-Van Heusen 16.4 10398 17.40 -0.20 31.52 19.30 Polo Ralph Lauren 15.0 28261 28.52 -1.16 19.55 12.10 Quiksilver 16.7 19310 17.05 -0.93 WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending December 5 Biggest Percentage Changes 3.92 2.05 Revlon - 4377 2.34 -0.06 For Week Ending December 5 21.15 14.94 Russell Corp. 13.8 6212 18.17 -0.22 Gainers Close Change 4.76 2.45 Tarrant Apparel - 364 3.90 -0.10 Composite: 113.68 Broadline Stores: 110.80 Softline Stores: 120.26 Movado 29.42 8.20 16.60 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 7.6 25369 13.00 -0.74 Estée Lauder 38.94 2.47 9.03 3.35 Tropical Sportswear - 3575 3.61 -0.58 Del Laboratories 24.60 1.86 44.08 32.62 VF Corp. 12.2 21929 40.31 -0.96 Kellwood 38.76 1.36 18.23 8.80 Warnaco - 27349 14.78 -0.62 -3.59 -4.26 -3.98 Alberto Culver 61.90 1.36 Losers Close Change Vendors: 116.84 Textiles: 93.50 Textiles Bluefly 3.77 -21.13 5.17 1.35 Delta Woodside - 51 1.67 0.01 Index base of 100 is Bon-Ton Stores 10.88 -18.99 0.07 0.01 Galey & Lord - 239 0.01 0.00 keyed to closing prices Tropical Sptswr 3.61 -13.84 12.30 2.25 Guilford Mills - 78 11.85 -0.15 of Dec. 31, 2002. Sears 48.96 -11.24 -1.30 -0.81 7.37 4.25 Unifi - 7169 5.10 -0.03 Saks 13.75 -10.60 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 15 Primedia Disbanding Arden’s Earnings Gain 3.2% NEW YORK — Benefiting from earlier promotions ceo of Montreal-based Prestilux, which handles the Consumer Magazines and fragrance innovations, Elizabeth Arden saw operations of Decléor USA. “We want to be top profits inch up 3.2 percent in the third quarter. end,” he remarked. About 400 U.S. spas have annu- By Greg Lindsey units led by our current group Net income for the three months ended Oct. 25 al sales of at least $2.5 million, Pérusse contended, publishers: Consumer Auto, hit $38.9 million, or 88 cents a diluted share, in- adding: “That group is the target.” He sees Carita’s NEW YORK — Primedia is get- Enthusiast Auto and Action cluding a noncash charge associated with the con- ideal “market potential” as a distribution network ting ready for life after New Sports, Outdoors, Lifestyles, version of preferred stock into common stock. in the U.S. of roughly 250 to 300 doors. York magazine. and Home Technology.” Last year, the prestige beauty company reported Industry sources estimate that Carita, which With the sale of the flagship The largest groups, both in income of $37.7 million, or $1.64. Excluding the comprises an assortment of 75 items, currently title now only weeks away, new the number of titles and the charge, income was $1.59 a share, 9 cents better generates worldwide wholesale volume in excess chief executive officer Kelly size of the audience, will be the than the First Call consensus estimate. of $29.3 million, or 25 million euros at current ex- Conlin is shaking up the com- auto and outdoor divisions. And Sales for the quarter rose 2.1 change rates. Its top markets are pany to prepare it for its new the most recognizable Primedia percent to $321.3 million from France, Italy and Germany, and it life as a lower-profile niche magazine after the New York $314.8 million. was introduced in the U.K., publisher. sale will likely be Motor Trend “All of our selling units per- BEAUTY BEAT Spain and Scandinavia last year. Conlin announced internal- or Guns & Ammo, both of which formed as expected, and our The U.S. is said to generate nearly on Friday that he was dis- arrived at the company only mass business in particular continued to strength- ly 10 percent of Carita’s worldwide volume. banding Primedia’s consumer two years ago along with the en throughout the quarter,” E. Scott Beattie, During the next two to three years, Carita’s whole- magazine group in favor of rest of Emap USA, for which chairman and chief executive, said in a statement. sale sales volume in the U.S. could grow to be- smaller divisions built around Primedia paid $515 million. Describing the quarter as “eventful,” Beattie tween $10 million and $15 million. the themes of its enthusiast Primedia began divesting its said the equity offering completed in October al- Carita SA and Decléor SA are both wholly magazines. Consumer maga- three largest magazines under lows the firm to accelerate its deleveraging strate- owned by Shiseido, and Herve Lesieur, who is zine chief David Ferm will former ceo Tom Rogers, who gy and increase the market float by over 40 percent. based in France, presides over both firms. leave Primedia at the end of sold Modern Bride to Condé He also noted that, after calling $20 million worth The Japanese cosmetics giant handles Decléor the month after Conlin de- Nast (a corporate sibling of of bonds, it had reduced its long-term debt by more and Carita under its recently formed Shiseido clined to renew his contract. WWD) last year for $52 million, than $100 million since the start of the year. Professional Group, which is based at Shiseido’s “Dave’s decision comes as and then quickly sold Chicago Looking ahead, Beattie said he is encouraged home office in Tokyo. Hiroshi Maruyama, as re- we are completing the program to Tribune Co. for $35 million by the solid retail performance during the holiday ported, was recently appointed deputy general to divest our large consumer and the American Baby group season to date. “We are excited about the impact manager of the group. Shiseido’s professional unit magazines and refocus this seg- to Meredith for $115 million. our advertising efforts will have on our brands also includes the Zotos and Joico hair care busi- ment of the company on our Rogers wanted to stop there, but across all of our channels of distribution this sea- nesses and Qi, a skin care brand marketed in Asia. core enthusiast magazines,” his board and Primedia’s ma- son,” he said. He noted the first television com- Zotos shares offices with Decléor USA’s in Darien. Conlin wrote in an e-mail to jority owner Kohlberg Kravis mercials featuring Catherine Zeta-Jones had Sources indicated that Shiseido is considering staff. Elsewhere, he explained, Roberts & Co. wanted to press begun to air, and along with television commer- acquisitions in an effort to develop its spa distri- “The practical effect of this on, forcing out Rogers before cials supporting the Elizabeth Taylor fragrances, bution businesses. While L’Oréal and Procter & change is moving from a single, selling Seventeen to Hearst for will continue throughout the holiday season. Gamble dominate the hair side, professional skin large business unit…to having $182.4 million and putting New For the nine months, income dropped 25.9 per- care is wide open, one source said, “It’s just a a group of focused business York on the block. cent to $13.1 million, or 47 cents a share, from question of getting at it.” $17.7 million, or 77 cents, in the like period last Decléor, which Shiseido acquired three years year. Sales rose 3.1 percent to $600.5 million from ago, is estimated to generate in the vicinity of $15 $582.3 million. million in annual wholesale sales in the U.S. On Nov. 21, Arden redeemed $56 million of its Sources projected, however, that Decléor had the 11.75 percent senior secured notes due in 2011 at potential to be twice that size here. Givenchy Homme a redemption price of 111.8 percent, plus accrued Pérusse asserted: “We’re aiming for 15 percent interest. It funded the repurchase with the pro- growth” for the Decléor brand, which features an ceeds from its public offering of 5.8 million shares assortment of 125 items. “We want to expand dis- of common stock, which it closed on Oct. 22. It tribution,” he added. “We need to be in 1,000 to Taps Creative Head sold 3.7 million shares in the offering, and 1,200 spas.” Unilever sold 2.1 million, at an offering price of On the product front, Carita has extended its PARIS — Ozwald Boateng, one house, part of luxury giant $18.25 a share. Perfect Line with the launch of Perfect Hair of Britain’s most colorful LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis — Jennifer Weitzman Serum, for $70, and Perfect Eye and Lip Contour, Savile Row tailors, has been Vuitton, expires next spring. for $150, both of which are rolling out now. appointed creative director at Givenchy has yet to indicate Additionally, three products — including a sham- Givenchy Homme. its plans for women’s wear. Decléor’s New Plans poo and a masque — will be added to Carita’s six- This confirms a report in Meanwhile, Boateng will NEW YORK — Decléor USA Inc. has some bullish item Le Cheveu line by next spring. these columns Feb. 13 that the make his runway debut in July strategies for the U.S. spa market. Decléor recently introduced a line called French house was courting 2004 during men’s fashion The Darien, Conn.-based affiliate of Paris’ Harmonie, which includes three products — a Boateng. week in Paris. He is said to Decléor SA handles the Decléor aromatherapy soothing cream, emulsion and eye contour gel — “My challenge will be to have charmed LVMH chief and Carita skin care brands in the U.S. — and the designed for sensitive skin. reinvent the French gentle- Bernard Arnault, whipping company plans to broaden the reach of both lines It also launched Decléor for Men. For spring, a man,” said Boateng, 36, known out a tape measure during the here amid a series of launch initiatives. “major” launch is planned within Decléor’s Vit- for mixing bespoke savoir faire interview to outfit his future While Decléor is a more established brand in al- aroma sub-brand but Pérusse was mum on details. with cross-cultural references. boss with a suit. most 700 spas and retail stores in the U.S., Carita “Spas want more technical products,” said “The style and elegance of Boateng’s celebrity clientele was just introduced here last year. Moving forward, Pérusse, adding that in order to get the message Hubert de Givenchy’s wardrobe ranges from Will Smith and Carita’s distribution in the U.S. — which currently out, Decléor USA two months ago named will be a source of inspiration.” Joseph Fiennes to Anthony includes two Barneys New York doors and 33 up- Fabienne Lindholm its director of education and This marks the first time Hopkins and Samuel L. Jackson. scale spas — could include 75 U.S. spas by next training for the Decléor and Carita brands in Givenchy has appointed a Boateng’s signature line is year, according to Jacques D. Pérusse, Decléor North America. Pointing to Shiseido’s research head designer for its men’s carried in such stores as USA’s president and chief executive officer. and development capacities, Pérusse said. wear, which has lingered in Galeries Lafayette in Paris and “The objective is to really capture the profes- “Novelty and the latest technology will become the shadows even as it gener- Selfridges in London. The de- sional category,” Pérusse said during a recent in- the added edge in our business.” ates about half of the compa- signer is planning freestanding terview in New York. Pérusse is also president and — Matthew W. Evans ny’s turnover. Julien Macdon- stores in London, Moscow and ald is Givenchy’s couturier New York, and will soon launch and women’s ready-to-wear a women’s fragrance. designer. His contract at the — Robert Murphy Finally...Stability In A Factor! Obituary Custom Tailored, Creative Financing We can help turn your receivables into cash, faster. We provide financing from $1 million Milton Lewis, Apparel Retailer, 89 to $10 million in as little as one week. You need a lender who knows your business. NEW YORK — Milton Lewis, was instrumental in the compa- president of the defunct William ny evolving regionally, including Sterling provides: Factoring, Asset Based Lending, Letters of Credit, Trade Finance, Bank Relationships and Common Sense. A. Lewis Clothing Co., a Chicago- opening a store in Milwaukee. based women’s apparel retailer, With the emergence of nation- Take advantage of our experience. died Nov. 13 at the Northwestern al chains during the late 1980s, Speak directly with a decision maker Memorial Hospital. He was 89. customer traffic for neighbor- For Factoring call Stanley Officina For Asset Based Lending call Robert Schnitzer The cause of death was heart hood retailers declined. After President Vice President failure, according to his son, suffering a heart attack in 1990, Sterling Factors Corporation at 212-575-4413 Sterling National Bank, at 212-575-4446 Dan Lewis. Lewis decided to close the busi- The store opened in 1910 in ness the following year. STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION Chicago’s South Side. Lewis In addition to son Dan, Lewis STERLING NATIONAL BANK went to work full time for the is also survived by another son, family-owned business after Timothy; a daughter, April Burke; “Our Doors Are Open All The Way To The Top” graduating from high school. a brother, Norman; and four NYSE: STL 500 Seventh Avenue • New York, NY 10018 • www.sterlingbancorp.com FDIC Along with his two brothers, he grandchildren. 16 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 WWD ®The retailers’ daily newspaper Published by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. Weekend Not a Total Wipeout 7 W. 34th St., New York, N.Y. 10001 Continued from page 2 The manager of the mall’s EDWARD NARDOZA, VP, Editor in Chief PETE BORN, VP, Associate Publisher death blow to the holiday sales Brookstone store said on BRIDGET FOLEY, VP, Executive Editor season. In fact, she believes it Saturday, “I’m amazed. We have JAMES FALLON, Editor will drive more people to the blizzard conditions, the mall DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor LISA LOCKWOOD, News Director stores. “This could help us,” said traffic is outstanding, we had DAVID MOIN, Senior Editor, Retail Nebons on Sunday. “Everybody beat [last year’s numbers] by 4 ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, Senior Editor, Markets ARNOLD J. KARR, Senior Editor, Financial now is reminded they need boots o’clock and I will not leave until JOE ZEE, Fashion Director and waterproof gloves. We’re al- the last person leaves the mall.” LORNA KOSKI, Associate Editor GABE DOPPELT, Entertainment Editor ready seeing a positive effect at Meanwhile, in Boston, the MILES SOCHA, Bureau Chief, Paris SAMANTHA CONTI, Bureau Chief, London the shoe stores this morning.” storm gave new meaning to the ALESSANDRA ILARI, Bureau Chief, Milan Nebons also pointed out that “Big Dig.” ROSE APODACA JONES, Bureau Chief, Los Angeles BOBBI QUEEN, Associate Fashion Editor a storm dumped 8 inches of The system wrapped an enor- JENNY B. FINE, Associate Editor snow during the same week last mous furry, white muffler around VALERIE SECKLER, Marketing Editor, Statistics ERIC WILSON, Associate Sportswear Editor, Designer year, and that should help bal- the city and its suburbs. By Friday SCOTT MALONE, Associate Sportswear Editor, Denim, Textiles AGNES CAMMOCK, Senior Market Editor ance comparisons. evening, the region looked like a JESSICA KERWIN, Senior Editor, Eye As of 11 a.m. on Sunday, vigorously shaken snow globe. SHARON EDELSON, Senior Editor, Research JULIE NAUGHTON, Prestige Market Beauty Editor Nebons said cars were already Those whirling gusts were LAURA KLEPACKI, Mass Market Beauty Editor starting to fill the parking lot. enough to send Christmas ven- NANDINI D’SOUZA, Fashion Features Editor EDMUND J. LEE, Fashion Features Editor “On Sunday, traffic doesn’t dors outside the Prudential MARSHALL HEYMAN, Eye Editor begin to move until 1 or 2.” Center shops downtown packing. LIBBY ESTELL, Associate Sections Editor Shoppers braved the elements in New York this weekend. JENNIFER HIRSHLAG, Associate Sections Editor Karen MacDonald, communi- “I’m not waiting for it to get ANAMARIA WILSON, Associate Retail Editor ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT, Senior Accessories Editor cations director for Taubman worse,” muttered one red-nosed The hardy souls who ven- hour late because an employee MEENAL MISTRY, Fashion News Editor Centers, said that of the compa- vendor, packing up candles and tured out Saturday — mostly couldn’t get shoveled out. But ETTA FROIO, Senior Executive Editor ny’s Northeastern operations, handmade velvet scarves. short distances on foot or on owner Hernando Santamaria JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Editor at Large only the Mall at Short Hills in Most of the storm’s fury hit public transportation — didn’t said the day’s tally was re- MARKET EDITORS New Jersey closed early on both Saturday, with accumulation hesitate to thaw their wallets. spectable, mostly because there Accessories: Melanie Kletter, Marc Karimzadeh (News), and Julia Topolski (Fashion); Friday and Saturday. Weather surpassing an inch an hour at “We thought it would be worse. was a captive audience of bored Beauty: Matthew W. Evans, Andrea M.G. Nagel, Kristin Finn; conditions had only a marginal times and a fall of 15 inches in The news coverage was so fright- tourists in the area. Furs: Bobbi Queen; Innerwear/Bodywear: Karyn Monget; Legwear: Marc Karimzadeh; Activewear, Outerwear: impact on Taubman’s Stamford the city by Sunday morning. ening,” said Rebekah Rafalski, “I had a mother and daughter Rosemary Feitelberg; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear News: Julee Greenberg, Evan Clark; Ready-to-Wear and Town Center mall in Stamford, Northern suburbs got nearly two co-partner in contemporary bou- in — the daughter goes to Harvard Sportswear Fashion: Brooke Magnaghi, Kim Friday, Conn. According to the general feet in blizzard conditions. tique Holiday, referring to police here,” he said. “They were from Antonia Sardone; Textiles: Daniela Gilbert (Fashion); manager, Friday traffic was Jon Hurst, president of the warnings to stay home and stories Minnesota so the snow didn’t Media/Advertising: Jacob Bernstein, Greg Lindsay CORRESPONDENTS strong until 2 p.m. “Despite a Retailers Association of of people squabbling over shovels phase them at all. They bought — Atlanta: Georgia Lee (Bureau Chief); Dallas: Holly Haber slow start, Stamford had a sur- Massachusetts, said the weather and snow blowers at area Home and made it a good day.” (Bureau Chief), Rusty Williamson; Milan: Luisa Zargani, Amanda Kaiser, Courtney Colavita; Valeria Ghio (Editorial prisingly good [Saturday],” said might have depressed sales be- Depots. In Boston’s Beacon Hill In the heart of the city, Manager); Los Angeles: Kristin Young, Nola Sarkisian-Miller, the manager, “even with near- tween 50 and 80 percent on neighborhood, where Holiday is Prudential Center Shops — Jeannie Chen (Fashion), Marcy Medina (Associate Entertainment Editor); New York: William Cotto; Dan blizzard conditions.” Saturday. During the holiday sea- located, residents waded short which houses major chains and Burrows, Jennifer Weitzman, Ross Tucker, Vicki M. Young Not surprisingly, sales of cold son, expected sales would be distances, taking a newspaper to draws more of its traffic from (Financial Reporters); Norah Zis (Bookings Editor); Paris: Robert Murphy (Retail and Fashion News Editor), Jennifer weather accessories led the way. around $200 million for the sin- a cafe or stopping in stores for suburbs, particularly for holiday Weil (Beauty), Brid Costello (Beauty); Boston: Katherine Bowers; Washington: Joanna Ramey (Bureau Chief) and The mall’s Children’s Place gle day, he said. cozy purchases. shopping — was nearly deserted Kristi Ellis store, for example, sold out of Although snow still fell steadi- At Holiday, flannel pj’s, until late afternoon when peo- LAYOUT/COPYDESK gloves and hats. Saturday sales ly by close of business Saturday Diptyque candles, cashmere ple started to trickle in, accord- STEVEN HILLMAN, Copy Chief PETER SADERA, Deputy Copy Chief at Foot Locker were above fig- evening, retailers actually sound- sweaters and a few pieces of ing to a clerk in specialty retail- Lisa Kelly, Doug Hennemeyer, Maureen Morrison, ures from last year and ed relieved that they had “really fun, festive jewelry” er Barami. The clerk, Asan, who Deborah Boylan (Copy Editors) Timberland sold 150 pairs of achieved the basics: opening the sold, Rafalski said. didn’t want to give her last ART DEPARTMENT boots on Saturday alone. Stride door and making at least a few In Harvard Square in name, said the atmosphere was EDWARD LEIDA, Executive VP, Group Design Director JEAN GRIFFIN, VP, Group Design Director Rite also sold 300 pairs of snow solid sales. Most planned to open Cambridge, Mass., contempo- “fun” with camaraderie among ANDREW FLYNN, Art Director ANTONIO AGUIAR, Associate Art Director boots during the week. as usual at noon Sunday. rary boutique Alo opened an those who had made it in. KIM SVITIC, Assistant Art Director Designers: Emilio Marin, Kara Hasson, Amy LoMacchio MELISSA COMITO, Photo Editor JENNIFER BIKEL, Photo Assistant ANITA BETHEL, Photo and Imaging Director Christmas shopping is worse than not wearing an Thursday’s premiere of her new movie, “Big Fish,” PHOTOGRAPHERS New York: John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, American flag on your lapel.” which was directed by her partner, Tim Burton, the George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Fashion Scoops Trillin, however, is not opposed to giving English actress stepped onto the red carpet Thomas Iannaccone, Robert Mitra, David Turner people a part of the world they won’t have to worry proudly holding onto a clutch that eerily looked IN THE PINK: Emanuel Ungaro has a new leader, about. One year, he gave his late wife, Alice, the like a fish fresh out of the Atlantic Ocean. WWD has learned. Paolo de Spirt has been named country of Iran, freeing her from reading about any The sparkly silver fish clutch was designed by the new chief executive officer of the French goings-on there. “I told her I would inform her of fellow Brit Lulu Guinness and came complete with EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI, President, WWDMediaWorldWide fashion house, effective immediately. He anything that would likely lead to nuclear a crystal-like eye and beaded gills. Columbia RALPH ERARDY, Senior VP, Group Publisher SARAH MURPHY, Publisher, Beauty Biz succeeds Riccardo Adamo, who left the company conflagration.” Tristar had asked Guinness to make the limited- MELISSA POST, Associate Publisher, Designer last summer after one year in the post. Previously, edition evening bag for the movie’s premiere. Fans JOEL FERTEL, Associate Publisher, Innerwear/Legwear/Textiles de Spirt, 39, was director of group business COVERING A COVER: For the cover of Primal will have to make do with photos of Bonham DALE REICH, Fashion Director VANESSA MAHLAB, Associate Publisher, Sportswear development for Salvatore Ferragamo SpA. He will Scream’s single CD “Some Velvet Morning,” the Carter and the fish: A company spokeswoman said ALIX MICHEL, Associate Publisher, Accessories be based in Paris and reports to the board of one that features Kate Moss’ singing debut, the the fish bags are not for sale, since only 50 were TIA POTTER, Associate Publisher, Technology RANDI SEGAL, Mass Beauty Director directors of Ungaro. A spokeswoman for the house group made an extra fashion investment by asking made and then distributed to a select few. GUS FLORIS, Fashion Manager said his immediate task would be to reinforce the Gibò designer Julie Verhoeven to come up with an TRACY HUPP, Account Manager DEBBIE HARTSTEIN, Account Executive ready-to-wear and accessories businesses. illustration for its packaging. The cover sketch is BUT WHAT I REALLY WANT TO DO IS FLATWARE: SUSAN KILKENNY, Account Manager, Fine Jewelry SUSAN SMITH, Regional Advertising Director an amalgam of images of butterflies with eyes on Isaac Mizrahi’s high-low split between couture and MAURICE CORKY NEWMAN, Consultant COOL RECALL: “I was a dork and she was the most their wings, lead singer Bobby Gillespie and Moss Tar-jay is so old hat. The new accessory for KARA LEVY, West Coast Account Executive Paris: ELIZABETH HAYNES, European Advertising Director popular girl in school,” said Valentino-clad Selma in various permutations, all emerging from a set of designers looks to be your own line of housewares. Milan: ELENA DEGIULI, ENRICA MANELLI, Blair, recalling the first time she met Sarah red lips. An interior illustration of a naked woman Account Executives That seemed to be the sentiment at Interior HAROLD ITZKOWITZ, Group Publisher, Michelle Gellar as she presented the actress with features a similar set of lips elsewhere. Design’s Hall of Fame awards last Wednesday Classified Advertising Divine Design’s “Woman of Style” award in Santa VALERIE MORRIS, VP, Manufacturing and Distribution night, where “Queer Eye for the Straight Guy” CRISTINA TAVARES, Production Director Monica, Calif., Thursday. “True style is being design chief Thom Filicia coyly avoided confirming MICHELE LEUNG, Production Manager WENDY FRANK, Circulation Director generous,” said Gellar, wearing Prada and arriving that he would roll out his own line of furnishings ANDREA KAPLAN, VP, Corporate Communications late from another charity event she had hosted through Pier 1 (where he’s the new spokesman) to FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS INC. that evening. Adrien Brody picked up the “Man of go along with his high-end practice at Thom MARY G. BERNER, President, CEO Style” award while Louis Vuitton accepted a PATRICK McCARTHY, Chairman, Editorial Director Filicia Inc. “The announcements that you’ve seen ROBERT A. SAUERBERG JR., Chief Operating Officer corporate humanitarian award. The awards are are unofficial,” he said, “but through my EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI, President, Women’s Wear Daily tied into a five-day annual shopping event that MediaWorldWide connection to the show, I’ve used Pier 1, Crate EDWARD NARDOZA, VP, Associate Editorial Director historically raises $1 million for Project Angel EILEEN CROSS, VP, Human Resources/General Services and Barrel and Pottery Barn, and I think design is Food, which delivers meals to people living with MIKE DeBARTOLO, VP, Group Publisher design is design. A good designer knows how to ALYCE ALSTON, VP, Publisher AIDS/HIV. EVA DILLON, VP, Publisher match a Louis XV chair with faux bamboo from WILLIAM WACKERMANN, VP, Publisher ELIZABETH TIGHE,VP, General Manager, Fairchild Summits BAH HUMBUG: Don’t look for Calvin Trillin to be Pier 1.” Fashion designer Yeohlee Teng, whose PAUL WHITE, VP, Senior Business Manager designs are perpetually described as architectural, cramming into shopper-happy department stores TO DIAL DEPTS. DIRECT AREA CODE 212 also seemed ready to make the jump. “I think it News: 630-3500 Fashion: 630-3520 Display Advertising: this month. During a discussion Thursday night 630-4600 Classified Advertising: 630-4610 Editorial Re- about the new book “Christmas at the New Yorker: would be really fun,” she said. “There’s not a lot prints: 221-9595 Individual Subscriptions: 800-289-0273 of difference. One envelopes the body and the Group Subscriptions: 212-630-4196 Subscription orders Stories, Poems, Humor and Art,” he said he and can be faxed to 818-487-4550; Production: 630-4475 other supports it. Fashion, furniture, interiors — FAIRCHILD OFFICES his daughters have called a truce on gift giving. ATLANTA 30329: 57 Executive Park So., NE, Suite 120, “One of the interesting things about Christmas it’s all about lifestyle.” (404) 633-8461. CHICAGO 60611: 875 N. Michigan Ave., Julie Verhoeven’s cover art for “Some Velvet to me is there seems to be this unwritten rule This year’s inductees included the real Suite 1410, (312) 649-6539. DALLAS 75207: Morning.” 2730 Stemmons Fwy., Suite 211, (214) 630-5461. about shopping. Somehow you’re viewed as architects John Pawson (the man responsible for LONDON WC2: 20 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AU, (44207) 240-0420. LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., disloyal and unpatriotic if you don’t spend yourself Calvin Klein’s New York and Paris stores) and Suite 720 (323) 951-1800. MILAN 20121: 2 Piazza Cavour, into poverty,” he said. “The whole economy rests FISH OF THE MOMENT: Helena Bonham Carter sure Stephen Owens, designer-decorator Jamie Drake (3902) 760-06283. PARIS 75008: 9 Rue Royale, (331) 4- 451-1300. WASHINGTON 20045: 529 14th Street N.W., on Christmas sales. Being a slacker about knows a great catch when she sees one. At and photographer Julius Shulman. Suite 954 (202) 662-8827. WWD ACCESSORIES Perfect Bound Magazine: February 2, 2004 Close: January 7 The ultimate consumer shopping guide for accessories from the most plugged-in editors in fashion.

Timed to the spring shopping season, arriving to consumers just as the hottest spring handbags, sunglasses, shoes, belts and wallets hit the stores.

For more information on advertising in this special WWD perfect bound magazine, contact Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® PHOTO: CHARLES MASTERS 18 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003

Designer/Accessories/to 60k KIDS BAGS/Backpacks Graphic Artist/Designer PRODUCTION Great oppty. to help develop new RUSSELL-NEWMAN, INC. Candidate should have minimum three line of kid’s bags/accessories for years experience working in production CHILDREN’S DIVISION and QC. Understand construction for well estab. Accessory co. Req: expr. Prestigious Children’s Wear Mfr. seeks designing both graphics and bags in coats, trousers, and skirts. Fabric knowl- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD acreative, multi-task, motivated team edge an asset. Previous overseas travel Base + Commission High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Kid’s mkt, strong Illust/Photoshop player. Duties include developing prints, Well est’d. L.A. based Missy Importer/Mfr. Production Manager sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 skls. Nice working envirn. experience required. Will review produc- artwork and drawing silhouettes. Must tion and quality in existing factories. Good seeks exp’d., energetic Salesperson for NY E-mail resume [email protected] also prepare artwork and print repeats showroom to help spearhead the establish- /Supervisor for Accessory Co. (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 salary & benefits for the right candidate. Knowledge of fabric purchasing, for overseas factories. Strong graphic Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 ment of new Missy Woven/Knit line. Team inventory and costing. Must be able to skills a plus. Minimum 3 years experience player who knows the paths to all impor- schedule production for timely and must be proficient in Illustrator/ tant Missy Stores. Strong Dept. & Chain DESIGNER ASSISTANT Photoshop. Pleasant work environment. Production Store contacts and good business sense deliveries, have previous experience Designer assistant needed with 3 years with importing and be familiar with Please Fax resume/salary requirements Coordinator req’d. Please E-mail resume and client experience in organizing moderate to Marcela Gambhir at: 212-736-3334 lists to: [email protected] major accounts. Benefits available. APPAREL AND RETAIL JOB BOARD eveningwear design room. Will be re- Major women’s and children’s accesso- Fax to 212-202-4396 Job Candidates-Post your Resume & View Jobs sponsible for dealing with piece goods ries company seeks a highly motivated Employers-Post jobs & view qualified resumes and trimmings, pricing of garments, GRAPHIC ARTIST Production Coordinator for our Children’s Wear Headwear division with a minimum of www.fashioncareercenter.com overseas developments. Tremendous FREELANCE - Illustrator / Thorough Exclusive French children’s line seek opportunity for growth in all areas. knowledge of Handbags & Accessories 2 years experience who thrives in an highly motivated Sales Representa- RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Fax resumes to 917-402-8045 a must. Fax resume: 516-897-3733 upbeat and fast paced environment. tives to join our NY show room. The Updating/Phone Interviews Responsibilities will include daily candidate will have at least 2 years PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. Designer Associate $40-$55K. Min. 2 Graphic Artist communication with overseas vendors, experience with high end department 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 yrs exp. in better or bridge market. act as a liaison between design and stores and specialty boutiques. Must ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Intimate apparel company seeks creative, sales depts. regarding artwork and Dynamic children’s and ladies accessory (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Wovens. Both creative & product detail oriented, highly motivated individu- be detail oriented, team driven with co. seeks sales pro to work with mid-tier www.resumesforfashion.com devel. Fittings. Skeching. Follow up sales order details and various other excellent communication and follow al. Qualified individual should be profi- follow up issues. and discount chain stores. Must have design calendar. Samples. Trim, etc. cient in Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7 and up skills. Great Benefits package. proven retail following and Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. Streamline and MAC OSX. This individual Please fax resume to: 212-564-4536. excellent follow-up skills. Computer The ideal candidate must be a Team should have a great work attitude and be Player, detail oriented, organized and knowledge a plus. Great opportunity!! Designer/Handbags/Jr. Mkt/to 60K+ able to work in a fast paced work environ- Please Fax Resume to (212) 268-0479 For mjr. handbag/accessory co. possess excellent written and verbal Jewelry Sales Associate ment. Must be able to meet deadlines and communication skills. Computer Luxury retail company seeks polished Seeking expr. handbag designer to be a team player. work on "hot" branded licensed line literate a must, AS400 experience a individual with strong selling and com- Weoffer excellent benefits and salary plus. Prior experience with Wal-Mart munication skills. Must be motivated for the Jr. mkt. Fast paced creative to compensate experience. Please fax atmosphere. Req. strong Illust/ Retail Link also helpful. and enthusiastic with ability and will- Photoshop skls. Nice working envirn. resume to: M. Fox at 212 842-4050 ingness to build a business. Client E-mail resume [email protected] We offer an excellent compensation books A+. Great Growth opportunity ACCOUNT MANAGER (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 SaraMax and benefits package including a in established market. Please fax Lantis Eyewear is a designer, marketer 401(k) plan. For immediate considera- resumes Attn: Caroline 212-244-4560. and distributor of sunglasses and opti- tion please fax resumes including cal frames. We have an opening for a DESIGNER - Handbags GRAPHIC ARTIST salary history and requirements to: Moderate handbag line with a Fashion Major apparel company seeks graphic 212-842-3217 LINGERIE Velour-Fleece Sr. Account Manager in the sunglass artist with experience in infant/toddler - division to manage a key territory. Flair. Jr to Missy. Proficient in Photo - Production Immed Est’d. Madison Ave. Co. seeks Acct. Execs French Terry Lycra+reg shop, extremely detail oriented. Creative, boys. Must be proficient in Illustrator/ in Daywear/Panties. Also expanding into Must have dept store & mid-tier exp. Photoshop. Name Companies Drake Fabrics Work from our new Secaucus, NJ office innovative, motivated designer wanted. Sleepwear. exp’d. only need apply. Fax 718-389-8902 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 All Levels resume to: with gym & cafeteria. Great benefits. Please email resume to: $35 to $100,000 212-889-8411 Send resume w/ salary to: [email protected] Graphic Artist to $65K [email protected] [email protected] or Baby better branded. Photoshop/Illustrator Retail store sales to $34K + incentives. fax to 201-766-7717 Designer - JEWELRY Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 PRODUCTION MANAGER Current exp. in high-end luxury soft goods [email protected] required. 5 days/wk. Hours: 9:45-6, Madi- Admin Ass’t Immed Established costume and sterling silver Five years hands on experience and son Ave in 60’s. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy OM/HR Jewelry Co. seeks motivated Designer problem solving attitude. Spanish a Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Stable Firm with 3 years minimum experience for GRAPHIC DESIGNER TO $75K must. Fax Res. W/Salary History. Sales All NYC Based Positions No Lot Too Big or Too Small. $75,000 all aspects of line development. Must...: Top notch Sr. graphic designer needed for FAX (305) 634-0077 Current exp. in these markets req’d. Call CLOTHES-OUT: [email protected] •Be able to design both sterling silver Growing & hot hat & cold weather Sales Mgr-Mens better sptswr- $150K++ (937) 898-2975 and costume jewelry collections accessories div. Must be proficient Receptionist Private label womens knit tops $150K++ •Be able to travel both domestically in Photoshop & Illus. Very Promotable Jr. Tops private label or branded $150K++ ALLOCATION SUPPORT Fax Resume Attn Carla 201-894-1186 Apparel company seeks a FT person Womens bttr csual sptswr prvt lbl $150K+ and overseas. for 3 months starting ASAP in a fast Major apparel company seeks individu- •Be knowledgeable of overseas mfg. or email [email protected]. Jr. Jeans $$ open al to assist Allocation department with KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS paced environment in the garment Costume Jewelry $$ open •Be proficient in Photoshop; center. Looking for a person who is maintenance on EDI orders. Responsi- Portfolio required Womens outerwear $$ open bilities include cross checking flexible & quick thinking & versatile. Call 973-564-9763 Jaral Fashion Agency •Be detail oriented, creative, and Import Asst. - SWIM CO. This position entails an all around confirmation orders against original possess the ability to spot trends buy and creating Excel sheets for Duties include interface between pattern person who is able to work well with customers. Great opportunity. Please Fax resume to: 212-629-6614 &importdepts. Garment construction others & completes projects. SALES ASSOCIATES Fax resume to 212-239-2766 knowledge. Must be detail oriented & Please fax resume to: (212) 302-8388 Gerry’s is looking for qualified Sales PC literate with strong follow-up skills. Associates. Candidates must have a DESIGNER E-mail resume: [email protected] Associate Designer Major apparel company seeks dynamic Samplemaker (F/T) minimum of 2 years women’s retail Activewear Co. seeks talented, energet- experienced designer. Must have expe- experience. Associates must possess Import Traffic Manager For patterns, sourcing & finished prod- computer skills, the ability to multi- ic, creative, hardworking, organized rience with Infant/Toddler Boys. Must NJ apparel importer requires highly uct. No less than 5 years experience. individual to work with design director be proficient in Photoshop and/or task, & excellent administrative, & organized professional with expertise $45,000 Email Kathryn at: communication skills. on line presentation, product develop- Illustrator. Mass Market experience a in freight movement and customs. [email protected] ment, and spotting the latest plus. Excellent salary and benefits. Please fax resume to: (212) 243-9141 Career opportunity. Fax resume and (Attention Clifford Rullow) trends. Must be a team player. MAC Fax resume to 212-239-2766 salary requirements 201-662-1588. Computer exp. required. Great career SHIPPING CLERK or Email: [email protected] Queens based dress mnfg. seeks opportunity. Salary commes. w/exp. Designer/Merchandiser $100-125K. Cur- Knitting Production Mgr to $50K. current Sales Immed Fax resume to: 212-278-8696 rent exp, in product devel of womens full ep. managiing knitters on Stoll CMS bright individual to oversee all aspects ynthia of shipping and receiving operations. Men’s Active Wear $Open Attn: C fashion sweaters. Creative & technical. machines. Train/supervise 8. Co. will relo Juniors $Open Take charge. Midtown Call 973-564-9236 Agcy you to West Coast. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Individual must be a self-starter, organized, and have a minimum of Outerwear $Open Bookeeper [email protected] Designer Merchandiser to $150K. LICENSING Coord/Sales Asst-2+ yr three years in the Garment Industry. Garment company seeking full-time controlling artwork sent to character Thorough knowledge of ASN’s, UPC, experienced bookkeeper - must be Current exp. in product devel of relaxed classic mens sportswear. licensors/do sales admin work. $40-45K UCC 128 and exporting documentation quick. Bk proficient. Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 is essential. Must be computer literate Sales Manager Please fax resume to 212-268-3963 Supervise art dept. Photoshop/ Illustra- Growing Fashion Accessories Co. seeks tor proficient. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. and familiar with the UPS computer. LICENSING GRAPHIC DESIGNER Fax resume with salary requirements an organized, motivated, go-getter with CHILDREN’S ACCESSORIES aproven sales record to join our team. CAD DESIGNER Designers Immed to: attn: HR at 718-204-5081. Very strong in Photoshop & Illustra- Better Dept. Store/Catalog/Private Label Needed for Jr branded company. Prestige following required. Must be strategic Must have 3-5 yrs exp in jr accessories. Name Company tor. Concept design through comple- Shipping Clerk &analytical. Great Growth Opportunity. Fax resume to 865-546-1630 or Top label tion Illustration, specing, hangtags, Seeking organized, responsible, detail Excellent work environment. Please Fax E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] packaging, storyboards. Some produc- oriented shipping clerk to pack resume to: 212-629-6614 tion follow up. Capable of handling and ship boxes, receive deliveries Careers in Apparel Thru and maintain inventory of fabrics. DESIGNER- SLEEPWEAR multiple tasks. Team player. Please fax resume to 212-944-5894. SALESPERSON WANTED APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. GREAT OPPORTUNITY for Better Fax to: 646-452-5571 Well established hosiery & intimate Asstnt. Controller-Royalties Exp...... $OPEN Sleepwear Designer! Create an exciting CHADO Ralph Rucci apparel importer based in NYC, 488 7th Avenue V.P. Product Development-MJR Catalog..$OPEN line for newly acquired license of a Merchandiser $70’s looking for individual w/contacts to Dsgnr-Junior C.N.S. Knits...... $OPEN well-known brand. Candidate must possess ACCESSORIES mass merchants & discounters. Also Live/Work Dsgnr-Contemporary-Denim Exp...... $BOE great color and style sense, with ability DIRECTOR SPEC TECH Childrenswear Company seeks experi- looking for salesperson for our new Unique Showroom Space...... $3850 Dsgnr-Girls 7-16 Knit Tops...... $70K+ to identify emerging trends and silhouettes. [email protected] division of fashion slippers & flip flops. Duplex PH. 1400 sf/ +/-. Skylight. enced Spec Tech for Girls and Boys Asstnt. Dsgnr-Sptswr-Westchester loc...... $35K Knowledge of fabrics and garment Please fax resume to: 212-239-1448 Spiral staircase. 2 bths, 2 entries. Asstnt. Dsgnr-Intimate Apparel...... $35K construction, is essential. Able to flat Merchandising Manager division. Should have working knowl- 1 Bedrooms...From $1,795 CAD Dsgnr-NED graphics Exp only...... $To 50K sketch, with design details; prepare edge of specs, grading and production Drman. Hi ceils. Wood flrs. Immed Occ Techn. Dsgnr-Wovens-Designer Label...$OPEN packages for development with daily ACCESSORIES with overseas factories. Candidate Sales Professional 212-629-8694 / M-F / 10-6 / NO FEE Techn. Dsgnr-Missy Sptswr. Wovens....$To 60K communication, until final desired must be strong in Excel and have good Mens sptwr company seeking an expe- Experience with handbags, overseas follow up and tracking skills. Must be Techn. Dsgnr-C.N.S. Knits + Sweaters....OPEN esult is achieved. Must be able to meet vendors, costing, and Excel required. rienced sales person. Ym background deadlines, be detail-oriented, multi- organized and detail oriented. preferred. 3+ yrs. exp. Showroom Other [email protected] Great communication skills, follow up Fax resume to 212-239-2766 GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 task and a team player. High proficiency and attention to detail a must. Please sales. Room for growth. For ALL office & loft SPACES with LectraGallery or similar computer Fax resume & salary requirements to: Technical Designer $80’s Please fax resume to 212-268-3963 500-20,000 SQ.FT system is required; 5+ years experience 212-204-0485 LARGE FIRM Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! CUTTER in Sleepwear. We are a well established GROWING 525 7th Avenue Shared Shwrm Own Ent Exp hand cutter for busy sample room / company and offer a competitive/ excellent Sales VP - SLIPPERS OPERATIONS ASSISTANT STABILITY Branded Slipper Mfr. seeks seasoned factory. English speaking. salary and benefits. Email resume to: [email protected] 212-947-5500 Phone 212-921-2233 Fax 212-921-2583 [email protected]. Manhattan based accessory manufac- Sales Pro w/established contacts w/major Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Steve turing co. seeks qualified candidate dept. stores. Fax resumes: 516-223-3491 with minimum 2 years relevant experi- TECHNICAL DESIGN ASSISTANT Designer to $140K ence including order entry, allocation, Couture house seeks organized, self- 10 yrs missy contemportay casual bts &tops pick ticket/label generation and DESIGNER Sweater Sales Executive motivated indiv. to assist in all areas. Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 routing to major stores. Growing successful Childrenswear Com- New Junior sweater and cut-n-sew Showrooms & Lofts [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Knowledge of Photoshop. Please fax Fax resume with salary pany seeking Spec Technician. Minimum division seeks experienced, professio- resume to: 212-921-5169 requirement to 928.244.4036. 5yrsexperience creating spec, garment nal sales exec. Candidate must have Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Designer to $150K. Current exp. in better ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 fittings and grading Excel and PDM a 3-5 yrs exp in the Junior market. foundation bras req’d. Creative + tech must. Good communication skills with Major department stores a must. DESIGN ASSISTANT knowledge + patternmaking skills. Grad- Product Development Asia markets essential. Experience work- Strong compensation package for Major apparel company seeks experi- ing, etc. Midtown Call 973-564-9236 Agcy the right person. enced individual to act as liaison ing with top retailers a plus. Coordinator Fax resume to : 646-827-9061 Please fax resume in confidence between design and production. Midtown Intimate Apparel manufactur- to Evan 212-819-1912. Responsibilities include assisting de- DESIGNER er seeks experienced candidates with signers with concepts/layouts, pricing Turkish Manufacturer with Missy and TECHNICAL DESIGNER neat detail orientation, excellent in Rapidly growing menswear designer inquiries and completing production Junior Activewear Line looking for follow-up, issue & tracking samples SWEET PEA AND NUDIES packages. Must have knowledge of Designer with experience and with sample room / overseas office, seeks a strong tech designer with 5 yrs N.Y. Showroom Sales position availa- exp. Must have background in ble. 3-5 years experience. A+ contem- Photoshop and/or Illustrator. knowledge of Turkish, Excel, Word. monitor & update chart for customer / Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Fax resume 212-447-6851 Att: Nora patternmaking. Candidate should be porary spec.stores following a must. Showroom Sublet - Brand New overseas office. Fax resume w/ salary proficient in technical drawings and 171 Madison 3300 FT Wood Floors requirement to 212-337-0639. FAX Resume (305) 634-0077 Design Dir/Merchandiser $120-150K. cur- garment construction. Must be able to Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 fit and review garments on models and Search-www.manhattanoffices.com rent exp. in product devel. of JR denim bot- Executive Assistant toms, twills, cords etc. Private label & A major urban brand seeks an individual Production Associate follow up with constructive and detail TEMPTED APPAREL branded. Supervise 6. Call 973-564-9236 to assist VP of Licensing. Must be highly Weare seeking an apparel production comments. Ability to communicate Agcy organized, a self starter, and able to associate for our NY office. Candidate with vendors/factories on a daily HOT JUNIOR RESOURCE SoHo Loft Showroom Share communicate well. Skills required; must have minimum three years basis. Must be proficient in MAC Looking for the right person to handle Beautiful sunny loft showroom on Designer $80-100K. Current exp in typing 60 wpm, master of Excel and experience working with factories, Illustrator and Excel. Good organiza- NY Sales. Must have major store Broadway is looking to sub-lease half mens lounge wear/sleepwear. Knits 7 Power Point. Exciting opportunity. agents and designers. Limited travel. tional skills a must. A team player is relationships. For consideration please of its showing space of 1800 Sq Ft. wovens. Mid tier and mass market Mid- Fax resume and salary requirements: Please fax resume to: 212-244-3808 important. Send resume to: Fax resume to Steve Schoenholz at: Please call Olga at: (917) 653-9375. town Co.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy (212) 764-5208 Attn: Susan [email protected] 213-744-9881 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 19

IN THE BAG: Handbag guru Roberta di EUROPE WATCH Camerino is being celebrated Retailers Cut Jobs in Nov. in the Swiss town of Lugano this month. An exhibition organized by the newly created By Joanna Ramey MBG Information Services, ad- port shows continued improve- nonprofit Roberta di Camerino Foundation displays the designer’s most mitting that doesn’t mean there ment, at least for the short significant pieces. Giuliana Camerino, who, with her line, Roberta di WASHINGTON — Department was a resurgence in the sectors. term” through the holidays, Camerino, pioneered the use of fabrics in handbags at the end of World War stores and specialty apparel “The reality is the industries said Steve Spiwak, an econo- II, has donated her archive to the foundation. It spans models of each bag retailers cut staff in November have lost more than 10.4 per- mist with Retail Forward Inc. and clothing piece designed by Camerino, press clips, photographs, film — at a time when they’re typi- cent of their jobs over the year.” Hiring was also off at spe- clips and original sketches. In the Fifties, Camerino created handbags with cally adding seasonal workers Overall, domestic manufac- cialty clothing and accessories luxurious Venetian fabrics more commonly found in the interior decoration to handle the holiday rush — turing employment in Novem- stores. The sector employed 1.3 of churches and royal palaces. Her “Bagonghi” style, originally created in and 800 jobs were lost in the ber — a weak spot in the million workers last month, 1948, is still a bestseller and is now available in silk, velvet or exotic skins, flagging domestic apparel and strengthening economy — de- which is 4,500 below October, such as ostrich. In addition to accessories and clothing, the line today textile industries last month, clined for the 39th consecutive and 24,600 fewer than Novem- includes footwear, eyewear, watch and home collections. — Luisa Zargani the Labor Department report- month, shedding 17,000 workers. ber 2002. ed Friday. DOWNSIZING: News that the Steilmann Group is closing its last domestic Nonetheless, the overall un- production site in Cottbus, Germany, in April 2004, affecting 134 jobs, employment rate in November was followed by rumors of planned massive layoffs at the apparel company. improved, dipping to 5.9 per- November had the smallest job According to figures released in July 2003, Steilmann employs 2,078 in cent from October’s 6 percent, “ Germany and 11,600 worldwide. The apparel producer, which in 1997 but companies added employ- loss the apparel and textile industries was Germany’s largest employer with a workforce of 3,496, is reportedly ees at a slower pace than in re- getting ready to let go of at least 484 employees in its Bochum- cent months. The November have had this year. Wattenscheid headquarters. Steilmann managing director Rüdiger Knaup unemployment rate is the low- — Charles McMillion,” MBG Information Services has called a press conference for today to outline the “current situation, as est since March, when it stood well as details of the future development of our group.” While Steilmann at 5.8 percent. once manufactured 70 percent of its ranges domestically, the company Overall, the jobs report mir- “Manufacturing has been General merchandise stores was a pioneer in setting up production in Eastern Europe and by 1999, 94 rored other positive economic the weak sector in the U.S. saw jobs decline for the month percent of its production was already established outside of Germany. The news of the past few months, economy and there are signs by 8,700 to employ 2.9 million, company, the sales of which were down 9.3 percent to $608 million, or but economists’ opinions were things are improving,” as facto- which was up 32,000 over last 506.7 million euros, in 2002, has been struggling with soft market mixed about the extent to ry orders increase, said John year. However, at department conditions and internal management problems since founder Klaus which the improved employ- Mothersole, senior economist stores, hiring was off 2,000 Steilmann officially retired in fall 1999. Euros have been converted from ment news underscores contin- with Global Insight Inc. How- workers in November against the dollar at current exchange. — Melissa Drier ued economic recovery. ever, Mothersole noted that October and down 9,800 over The apparel industry gained certain sectors in manufactur- the 12 months to employ 1.7 RAF RIFF: Raf Simons, the avant-garde Belgian designer, was the big winner a seasonally adjusted 900 jobs ing, like apparel and textiles, million workers last month. at the Gwand Fashion Festival in November. The Swiss Textiles Federation in November against October to are long-term shrinking indus- Retailers “are hiring, but handed Simons its top prize of $120,000, or 100,000 euros, plus fabric employ 297,900, which is 45,300 tries that aren’t likely to par- not nearly as much as they tra- vouchers valued at about $12,000. Among the candidates vying for the workers below the year-ago take in this rebirth. ditionally do,” said Carl Steidt- award were Bernhard Willhelm, Boudicca, Hamish Morrow, Henrik Vibskov, level. The textile industry for In the entire economy, em- mann, chief economist with Marcus Huëmer and Yvan Misplelaere, who each showed 20 looks in a the month lost 1,700 workers to ployers added 57,000 new jobs Deloitte Research. “They are fashion show featured at the event. A panel of 16 judges, including top employ 433,200, or 48,500 below in November, much lower than just extremely cost-conscious retailers and editors from Europe and the U.S., selected the winner. November 2002. the 150,000 jobs expected by at the moment. They have also Simon’s inventive designs correspond with Swiss Textile’s goal to help “November had the smallest analysts, which tempered opti- spent a great deal on technolo- dynamic designers make their mark on the international scene. The Swiss job loss the apparel and textile mism about the jobs report. gy to manage business over the textile and clothing industry makes up the fifth-largest export sector in industries have had this year,” “I think it paints a picture of last couple of years, which al- Switzerland. Swiss Textiles represents 200 Swiss textile and clothing firms, said Charles McMillion, presi- a labor market that is still try- lows them to manage with employing a total of 24,000 employees. — Ranya Husami dent and chief economist with ing to get on its feet, but this re- fewer people.”

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