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The Morgue File 2010
the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. -
Deco-Lletage Casey Spooner of Fischerspooner DESIGNERS CHANNEL the ART DECO YEARS for FALL’S PRETTIEST Goes Solo — for Now
Plus: CASEY AT BAT See Style Deco-lletage Casey Spooner of Fischerspooner DESIGNERS CHANNEL THE ART DECO YEARS FOR FALL’S PRETTIEST goes solo — for now. — AND MOST REVEALING — LINGERIE. SEE STYLE, PAGE 4. Page 18 men’s collections MONDAY, JANUARY 24, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 PARIS WWD fall 2011 TIME AS LUXURY Expensive Watches Boom As Investors Rush In By JOELLE DIDERICH GENEVA — At a time when curren- director of Van Cleef & Arpels. cies are seesawing and treasury “They want to buy something that markets are rattled by fears of a not only provides gratification at the European government debt default, time of purchase, but is also going to a limited edition tourbillon or chro- stand the test of time,” he added. nograph is looking not only chic, Van Cleef & Arpels is banking but also like a clever investment. on an exhibition of its jewels, to be Brands showing at the SIHH held from Feb. 18 to June 5 at the watch fair here, from Jan. 17 to 21, Cooper-Hewitt National Design were keen to emphasize the, well, Museum in New York City, to bol- timelessness of their offerings, ster clients’ perception that they ahead of what some experts pre- are buying into a piece of history. dict will be a record year for Swiss There is a more prosaic reason watch exports. for picking up haute horlogerie “The clients who are ready to timepieces. With the cost of gold resume making very significant and other raw materials steadily purchases want to know exactly rising, most brands are planning what they are buying and to be reas- price increases in 2011, guarantee- sured about the investment value of ing that fi ne watches will appreci- the product,” said Nicolas Bos, vice ate in value almost instantly. -
Analysis of Artificial Leather with Textile Fabric on the Backside
Volume 6, Issue 2, Fall2009 ANALYSIS OF ARTIFICIAL LEATHER WITH TEXTILE FABRIC ON THE BACKSIDE Darko Ujević, Stana Kovačević, *Larry C. Wadsworth, Ivana Schwarz, and Blaženka Brlobašić Šajatović University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Zagreb, Croatia *The University of Tennessee, Department of Materials Science and Engineering ABSTRACT The fundamental characteristics of a textile fabric intended for the vehicle interior is presented. Chemical and physical-mechanical properties of artificial leather with bonded textile fabric on the back side are analyzed. The most important parameters for leather durability are: breaking force and elongation-at-break, and these properties will be tested in different circular directions. Likewise, chemical properties of artificial leather and basic construction parameters of the textile fabric are investigated. When using artificial leather, physical-mechanical properties of artificial leather as well as the quality of the seams are most important. In addition to the results obtained, physical-mechanical properties and aesthetic evaluation of the joined places will be compared. Keywords: Artificial leather, Textile fabric on the back side, Joined place strength, Seam strength, Physical-mechanical properties Introduction pleather (plastic leather) is a slang term for synthetic leather made out of plastic, a In addition to ergonomically designed car portmanteau of plastic and leather, the term seats for keeping the body in a correct sitting can be either descriptive, or derogatory, position, it is important that the passenger depending upon the user (the derogatory use feels no bodily fatigue due to sitting implies use as a substitute for genuine discomfort. Pleasant contact between the animal hide leather to cut costs). -
Candy Girl NEW YORK — If Visions of Sugarplums Dance in Your Head Year Round, the Time Is Right to Indulge in a Bit of Novelty
STORM DOESN’T WIPE OUT WEEKEND RETAIL/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • December 8, 2003 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Candy Girl NEW YORK — If visions of sugarplums dance in your head year round, the time is right to indulge in a bit of novelty. For spring, innerwear designers favor candy prints on everything from bathrobes to slinky pajamas, and the results are sweet and sexy. Here Eberjey’s silk camisole and tap pants. 2004’s Retail Surprise? Economic Outlook Rosy But It Might Not Last By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — A strong holiday season would only add to expectations of a stronger economy in 2004, but economists and analysts worry that any rebound will be short-lived without a better job outlook. Despite Saturday’s snowstorm — which ultimately should not have a major impact on sales — economists expect a solid holiday. That, coupled with election-year politics, is likely to give the economy a strong start in 2004, but consumers won’t allow it to carry into 2005, experts say, unless there’s real See Long, Page13 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: MARIYA SHVETSOVA/SUPREME; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MATEO FOR WARREN TRICOMI; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY TRICOMI; STYLED BY FOR WARREN MATEO HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SHVETSOVA/SUPREME; JOHN AQUINO; MODEL: MARIYA PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 8, 2003 WWDMONDAY Tourists Help Salvage Snowy Sales Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Saturday and we’re extremely FASHION By Ross Tucker A look at what’s going on in the world of young talent, through the eyes of and Katherine Bowers busy now,” said the store manag- er, who identified herself as 6 Charlotte Martin, Zac Posen and Paul Berman of 30 Vandam. -
April 20, 1971 L. R. MZELL 3,575,751. by 4.6% F 44
April 20, 1971 L. R. MZELL 3,575,751. METHOD OF MAKING SEMARTIFICIAL PILE FABRICS Original Filled Sept. 1, 1966 . 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 als. Sass Eckettsatistassists assass n N N NS 2 S.SS SSSSSSSSSSG21 is Y2 SnS 5 8 Arata. INVENTOR LOUS R. MZE BY 4.6% f 44 ATTORNEYs April 20, 97. L. R. M. ZE 3,575,751 METHOD of MAKING SEMI ARTIFICIAL FILE FABRICS Original Filed Sept. l. 1966 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 caseat 27. as N S 2šSSSSSSSSS;&SAS % 7 III)}. 2. s 33.5 SS 3 AŠ. in f (s & S 3 14 - 15 S. S. & : Šs C &%Š 3.d $ Aca 1. EEDan SNsO R S R SS f S.CN SESS 5 6 7 INVENTOR LOUIS R. MIZELL by 4-4 A 4-26 ATTORNEYS 3,575,751 United States Patent Office Patented Apr. 20, 1971 2 While the following discussion will apply primarily 3,575,751. to woolled animal skins typified by woolled sheep and METHOD OF MAKNG SEMARTIFICIAL PLE FABRICS amb skins, it pertains to haired or furred animal skins in Louis R. Mizell, Montgomery County, Md., assignor to general, such as the haired skins or hides or goats, llamas, I.W.S. Nominee Company Limited, London, England 5 vicunas, alpacas, and the like, and to the furred skins of Continuation of application Ser. No. 484,240, Sept. 1, mink, muskrat, rabbit, chinchilla, bear, and the like. As 1966. This application Jan. 15, 1969, Ser. No. 796,276 used herein the term "woolled' is intended to be inclusive Int. -
Clothing Terms from Around the World
Clothing terms from around the world A Afghan a blanket or shawl of coloured wool knitted or crocheted in strips or squares. Aglet or aiglet is the little plastic or metal cladding on the end of shoelaces that keeps the twine from unravelling. The word comes from the Latin word acus which means needle. In times past, aglets were usually made of metal though some were glass or stone. aiguillette aglet; specifically, a shoulder cord worn by designated military aides. A-line skirt a skirt with panels fitted at the waist and flaring out into a triangular shape. This skirt suits most body types. amice amice a liturgical vestment made of an oblong piece of cloth usually of white linen and worn about the neck and shoulders and partly under the alb. (By the way, if you do not know what an "alb" is, you can find it in this glossary...) alb a full-length white linen ecclesiastical vestment with long sleeves that is gathered at the waist with a cincture aloha shirt Hawaiian shirt angrakha a long robe with an asymmetrical opening in the chest area reaching down to the knees worn by males in India anklet a short sock reaching slightly above the ankle anorak parka anorak apron apron a garment of cloth, plastic, or leather tied around the waist and used to protect clothing or adorn a costume arctic a rubber overshoe reaching to the ankle or above armband a band usually worn around the upper part of a sleeve for identification or in mourning armlet a band, as of cloth or metal, worn around the upper arm armour defensive covering for the body, generally made of metal, used in combat. -
Ethical Consumers' Awareness of Vegan Materials
sustainability Article Ethical Consumers’ Awareness of Vegan Materials: Focused on Fake Fur and Fake Leather Yeong-Hyeon Choi 1 and Kyu-Hye Lee 2,* 1 Department of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul 04763, Korea; [email protected]figure 2 Human-Tech Convergence Program, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul 04763, Korea * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +82-2-2220-1191 Abstract: With an increase in ethical awareness, people have begun to criticize the unethical issues associated with the use of animal materials. This study focused on the transition of global consumers’ awareness toward vegan materials and the relationship between the interest in ethical subjects such as animals, the environment, and vegan materials. For this purpose, consumers’ posts about fur/fake fur and leather/fake leather uploaded on Google and Twitter from 2008 to 2019 were utilized, and the Term Frequency-Inverse Document Frequency (Tf-idf ) value was extracted using Python 3.7. Furthermore, the worldwide Google keyword search volume of each word was analyzed using Smart PLS 3.0 to investigate global consumers’ awareness. First, with time, consumers began relating animal materials such as fur and leather to topics such as animal rights, animal abuse, and animal protection. Second, as interest in “animal welfare” increased, interest in “fake fur” also rose, and as interest in “cruelty free” increased, interest in “fake fur”, “vegan fur”, and “vegan leather” also increased. Third, as consumers’ interest in the “environment” increased, interest in vegan materials such as “fake fur” and “fake leather” decreased. However, as interest in “eco” increased, interest in “vegan leather” also augmented. -
Characteristics of Artificial Leather for Footwear - Heat and Moisture Transport Properties -
Technical Paper Characteristics of Artificial Leather for Footwear - Heat and Moisture Transport Properties - Won Young Jeong !1,Jung Woo Park !2,Masayoshi Kamijo !1,YoshioShimizu !1,andSeung Kook An !2 *1 Dept. of Kansei Engineering, Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, Ueda, Nagano 386-8567, Japan *2 Dept. of Textile Engineering, Pusan National University, Busan 609-735, Korea Abstract :Artificial leather used in this study was prepared by wet coagulation method with polyurethane resin in a laboratory instrument. Various needle-punching nonwoven fabrics were used as substrate material, which are widely used in the shoe industry as the substrate ofinsole or artificial leather. To estimatecomfort properties with the finishing for artificial leather, we measured air, water vapor, and thermal transport properties ; and then we evaluated the changes of each property of finished nonwoven fabrics which were dipped and coated with polyurethane resin. The changes due to the dipping and coating processes for artificial leather may give rise to a feeling of discomfort. Water vapor permeability and heat keeping rate decreased, but thermal conductivity and a cool feeling increased with the finishing process. After dipping and coating processes, there was little significant difference in the transport properties of base materials. Therefore, the transport characteristics were more closely related to the finishing condition than the constructive characteristics of the base materials. (Received 14 December, 2006 ; Accepted 4 July, 2007) 1. Introduction some situations, the evaporation rate of perspiration from wet skin is less than that of perspiration secretion. So Artificial leathers have the advantage over natural accumulated water vapor may condense inside the inner products in uniformity of quality and availability in roll clothing of a wearer undertaking arduous exercise in a form, which facilitates production planning and cold and wet climate. -
Varemerketidende-Nr29-2012.Pdf
. nr 29/12 - 2012.07.16 NO årgang 102 ISSN 1503-4925 Norsk varemerketidende er en publikasjon som inneholder kunngjøringer innenfor varemerkeområdet BESØKSADRESSE f Sandakerveien 64 POSTADRESSE f Postboks 8160 Dep. 0033 Oslo E-POST f [email protected] TELEFON f 22 38 73 00 TELEFAKS f 22 38 73 01 INFOSENTERETS TELEFONTID f kl. 09.00 - 15.00 Telefon (+47) 22 38 73 33 Telefaks (+47) 22 38 73 31 1 Innholdsfortegnelse og inid-koder 2012.07.16 - 29/12 Innholdsfortegnelse: Registrerte varemerker ............................................................................................................................................ 3 Internasjonale varemerkeregistreringer ................................................................................................................. 30 Innsigelser ............................................................................................................................................................. 81 Avgjørelser etter innsigelser .................................................................................................................................. 82 Begrensing i varefortegnelsen for internasjonale varemerkeregistreringer .......................................................... 95 Endringer i varefortegnelsen for nasjonale og internasjonale varemerkeregistreringer ..................................... 105 Slettelser, begjært av innehaver .......................................................................................................................... 106 Overdragelser -
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company April 22-23, 2011
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company April 22-23, 2011 1 THREE ROOSTER BUTTONS. All large stamped brass: 2-piece with fine detail, steel back, self shank, 1 11/16. High relief head with foliate border, steel back (rusted), loop shank, 1 1/2. 1- piece convex brass with applied high relief rooster, 1 1/2. Good-excellent. $36.00 2 TWO LARGE INDIAN THEME BRASS BUTTONS. "Indian Hunter", 2-piece stamped and tinted, based on painting by Bejamin West "The Death of General Wolf". 2 inches. (Minor wear) very good. Extra large Indian head profile stamped in relief on a flat disc. 1 15/16. Excellent. $48.00 3 FIVE TEDDY ROOSEVELT HUNTING BIG GAME BUTTONS. Medium 1-piece stamped brass, one lion, two rhinoceros, two elephant. 1 1/8. Excellent. $108.00 4 FOUR ENAMELED BUTTONS with CUT STEELS. All large: Three 1-piece including two pierced. One mounted on a pearl disc with raised edge. 1 1/4 - 1 1/2. (Some oxidized steels) good-excellent. $60.00 5 TWO LARGE BUTTONS with DOGS. Wood high relief terrier head with glass eye within stamped and pierced brass border mounted on wooden disc, 1 3/4, (tiny rim chip). 1-piece flat brass button with cut steel and stamped geometric border having dog and doghouse escutcheon with cut steels. 1 9/16. Excellent. $132.00 6 TEN ENAMELED BRASS BUTTONS. Medium and large 1-piece consisting of four pair and a pierced set of four. 1 3/16 - 1 5/16. Excellent. $84.00 7 TWO FIGURAL STAMPED and PIERCED BRASS BUTTONS. -
A SURVEY of STANDARDS for the U.S. FIBER/TEXTILE/APPAREL INDUSTRY
A Survey of Standards for the U.S. Fiber/Textile/Apparel lndustr y Craig 6. Pawlak U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE Technology Administration National Institute of Standards and Technology Manufacturing Systems Integration Division Gaithersburg, MD 20899 April 1996 U.S. DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE Michael Kantor, Secretary TECHNOLOGY ADMl NlSTRATlON Mary L. Good, Under Secretary for Technology NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF STANDARDS AND TECHNOLOGY Arati Prabhakar, Director DISCLAIMER No approval or endorsement of any commercial product, organization, or company by the National Institute of Standards and Technology is intended or implied. Certain commercial equipment, instruments, or materials may be identified in this report in order to facilitate understanding. Such identification does not imply recommendation or endorsement by the National Institute of Standards and Technology, nor does it imply that the materials or equipment identified are necessarily the best available for the purpose. This publication was prepared by United States Government employees as part of their official duties and is, therefore, a work of the US. Government and not subject to copyright. A SURVEY of STANDARDS for the U.S. FIBER/TEXTILE/APPAREL INDUSTRY Craig G. Pawlak Manufacturing Systems Integration Division Manufacturing Engineering Laboratory National Institute of Standards and Technology Gaithersburg, MD ABSTRACT This report documents a survey of standards relevant to the U.S. Fiber/Textile/Apparel (FTA) industry. The standards are discussed in four main groups-integration standards, test methods, quality standards, and standard reference data and materials. The Appendix of the report lists the titles of all standards found, grouped together by the organization responsible for them. Those organizations are also listed along with contact information for them. -
Check in the Season, See Pages 6 To8
Page 1 Monday s s FASHION: RETAIL: Pringle details Miley new growth Cyrus plans, page 5. FINANCIAL: helped Tommy Wal-Mart Hilfiger’s celebrate s a big year, sales leap, SECTION II: page 3. page 3. s WWDTrends Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 8, 2009 • $3.00 WAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearwDMONdAY Check In Stella McCartney played with shape and volume for resort, creating silhouettes with a distinctive appeal. Here, her little checked minidress, fastened by snaps, with the freshness of a picnic in the country. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 8. Jewelry’s New Mind-set: Buying for Celebration Rather Than Indulgence By Sophia Chabbott LAS VEGAS — The paradigms are shifting in the fine jewelry sector. Out is the indulging self-purchasing consumer looking to drape herself in gold, diamond and gemstone jewelry for fashion’s sake. In is a new era of purchasing from the heart: birthdays, anniversaries, graduations and the like. Jewelry brands are banking on special occasion purchasing to keep them afloat in these rocky times. Mother’s Day marked a turn for the better for jewelry sales that have, like other luxury categories, taken a beating since the stock market tanked last fall. Retailers and company executives were pleased, if a bit surprised, at the uptick in sales starting in mid-April. See Jewelers, Page10 PHOTO BY BY TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY 3x14 (left) WWD.COM WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY ™ FASHION 6 Stella McCartney mixed the whimsical and the sophis- A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based ticated for resort, while Roberto Cavalli channeled an on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Eighties joie de vivre.