ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR AMERICANA MANHASSET EXPANSION ROLLS AHEAD/4 SECTIONInside: II IN DEPTH WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 31, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 64 $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Fringe Group MILAN — Move over, Roxie Hart. The flapper dress is back, and you’ll have plenty of rivals for naughtiest singer/dancer/actress for fall. At Dolce & Gabbana, for example, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana toned down their seductress motif for day, mixing it with techno elements, but they kept it high voltage for evening, especially in the Twenties-inspired looks. Here, their fringed flapper dress. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Industry Anxiety Rises As Threatening Virus Spreads Through Asia he spread of the mysterious pneumonia virus in Hong TKong and southern China has begun to wreak havoc on the areas’ vital textile and apparel industries, while American industry executives grow increasingly nervous about traveling to the region. The World Health Organization advised travelers to avoid the region unless absolutely necessary and many countries issued travel advisories to their citizens. As of Friday, the outbreak of atypical pneumonia, or Severe Acute See SARS, Page10 PHOTO BY PHOTO DAVIDE BY MAESTRI 2 Charron Reaps Sharp Pay Hike WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Evan Clark some bang for their buck, though. still has a long way to go to top of Over the fiscal year ended Dec. the hill. took that NEW YORK — Paul Charron’s 28, the firm’s stock jumped about spot in 2001 with compensation of GENERAL pay rose more than his compa- 18 percent while the Standard & $24.9 million. FASHION: Brush up on the Charleston. Flapper looks are back, with beaded ny’s stock last year, and the stock Poor’s 500 sank 24.6 percent. For 2002, as reported, Levi 6 dresses; side-wrap, fur-collared coats; cloche hats, and lots of fringe. did just fine. The increased stock price Strauss & Co. ceo Phil Marineau The mysterious pneumonia virus in Hong Kong and southern China has The Liz Claiborne Inc. chair- does more for Charron than im- has already topped Hilfiger’s 1 begun to wreak havoc on the area’s textile and apparel industries. man and chief executive enjoyed prove his standing with investors, prior-year number with a $25.1 a 42.8 percent increase in his though. As of March 19, the ceo million paycheck, almost 15 Despite the soft economy, Americana Manhasset’s current expansion is

WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, pay last year to $4.3 million, ac- carried 1.1 million shares of times what he earned in 2001. 4 part of an ongoing strategy to pump up its luxury appeal. cording to the firm’s proxy state- Claiborne, or 1 percent of the Any executives wishing to don Tod’s 2002 net income dropped 2.5 percent to $38.3 million on a 12.5 ment filed with the Securities outstanding common stock. the compensation crown in the 2 percent sales increase to $382.8 million, satisfying its chairman. and Exchange Commission. For the year, Claiborne’s net future should consider a contract That’s a $1.3 million raise from income rose 20.4 percent to $231.2 that links compensation to sales. SECTION II: Accessories/Legwear In Depth is included in this issue. the $3 million he made in 2001, million, or $2.16 a diluted share, Hilfiger beat out the pack in 2001 Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 before restricted stock awards from $192.1 million, or $1.83, last with an annual salary of $900,000 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is valued at $2.2 million. In 2000, he year. Sales ascended 7.8 percent plus 1.5 percent of the net sales [email protected], using the individual's name. pulled in a total $3.1 million. to $ 3.72 billion from $ 3.45 billion. of TH USA and its subsidiaries SUBSCRIPTION RATES Charron’s salary last year rose Charron ranked 11th in WWD’s over $48.4 million. U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. 3.4 percent to $1.2 million while listing of the top apparel manufac- Number two on the 2001 list was All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. the big rise came in the execu- turers’ salaries for 2001. While last Hilfiger ceo Joel Horowitz with Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 tive’s bonus, which at $1.9 mil- year’s boost in compensation compensation of $12.7 million. Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. lion tallied a 99 percent upswing. bodes well for his position among Rounding out the top three was WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. Shareholders apparently got the most highly paid in 2002, he Ralph Lauren with $6.6 million. a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 Despite Strong Sales, Tod’s ’02 Net Falls GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of By Luisa Zargani depreciation and amortization European sales gained 16.6 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. grew 13.9 percent to $98.1 million, percent, while those in Asia and For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com MILAN — Tod’s 2002 net income representing a 25.6 percent mar- the rest of the world grew 25.5 dropped 2.5 percent on a 12.5 gin on sales. Earnings before in- percent. MONDAY: Tarrant Apparel’s fourth-quarter earnings. percent sales increase, but the terest and taxes grew 12.7 percent In a phone interview, Macel- slightly weaker profit showing to $67.6 million, representing 17.7 lari said it was difficult to make TUESDAY: Los Angeles Fashion Week (through Monday). was attributed to financial items percent of sales. The margin rep- any projection for the current rather than any lessening of its resented “slight growth” com- year. “We are cautious,” he told WEDNESDAY: Filo yarn fair, Cernobbio, Italy (through market strength. pared with the year before, WWD. “This is a difficult moment Friday). Diego Della Valle, chairman, notwithstanding hefty amortiza- to read, since the market and the pronounced himself satisfied with tion costs related to the expansion economic situation are worsened FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the February net income of $38.3 million and of its retailing network and the by the war. We have reevaluated employment report. sales of $382.8 million last year. opening of direct stores. Dollar our strategies and believe they Moda Made in Italy International Trade Fair for “The 2002 results are certainly figures are converted from the are still valid. After all, this mo- Shoes, Munich (through Sunday). positive for the group and are euro at current exchange rates. ment is bound to pass.” among the best, relatively speak- Emilio Macellari, chief finan- Macellari said he felt Tod’s SATURDAY: The National Bridal Market, Chicago ing, in the luxury goods industry,” cial officer of the company, said products were performing well, (through April 8). said Della Valle in a statement. that sales of the Tod’s brand grew in part, because “they are classic

“This performance affirms the 8.5 percent last year, while Fay but in step with fashion. So they COMING THIS WEEK health of the group.” and Hogan leaped 28.6 percent are not considered too trendy The company attributed the and 11.4 percent, respectively. and are not quickly out of style. drop in net income to a drop in Della Valle said the group’s They may cost more, but they last interest income compared with brands “remain strong and have longer and are easily worn on In Brief 2001, when it benefited from in- a great potential for growth.” more than one occasion.” terest on its initial public offering Sales in the U.S. were up 2.7 In 2002, the group’s work- LIZ CLAIBORNE TAPS TWO, INTERNATIONALLY: Liz proceeds, as well as a higher tax percent, but would have expand- force grew by 200 people to 1,715 Claiborne Inc. has appointed Patricia J. Royak as president of Liz burden in 2002. ed 6 percent if not for the weaken- employees, and the cost of labor Claiborne Europe and Patricia Williamson as president of Earnings before interest, taxes, ing of the dollar against the euro. escalated 14.2 percent. International Alliances. Both will report to Jorge Figueredo, pres- ident of Liz Claiborne International. In her new position, Royak, who was president of International Alliances, will lead the effort to grow the Liz Claiborne brand, identify opportunities for other brands in Europe and work closely with Mexx management. She will be based in Holland. Williamson assumes Royak’s former Féraud Unties Creative Knott role and will be responsible for sales, marketing, merchandising and business development activities for Liz Claiborne in Latin PARIS — Citing poor sales of its trate on his three-year-old signa- America, Asia and the Middle East. She has been vice president new luxury ready-to-wear collec- ture collection, which is sold in and general manager for Liz Claiborne Casual Petites. tion, Féraud SARL said Friday about 40 stores worldwide. He is that it was parting ways with its readying his spring 2004 precol- END OF AN ERA: Putting its ill-fated ventures into the sporting creative director Jean-Paul lection to show buyers during goods business behind, The Benetton Group SpA agreed on Friday Knott to concentrate on its main couture week in July. to sell its Prince sports equipment brand to the Lincolnshire label and its retail network. “I think we did a beautiful job, Equity Fund LP, a U.S. investment firm, for $39.4 million. The “We are very happy with the and I thank everyone who was sports businesses, which also included Nordica ski boots and image Jean-Paul has conveyed part of it,” Knott said. De Monts Roller Blade inline skates, necessitated write-offs that will lead and created for Féraud, but we did not rule out a return to luxu- Benetton to report a full-year loss, its first, for 2002. The deal with are disappointed by the commer- ry rtw in the future, but stressed Lincolnshire, already in the sports business, includes the Ektelon cial result,” Féraud managing di- that the immediate focus would brand and a number of intangible assets and is expected to close rector François-Xavier de Monts be on building the core women’s at the end of April. The move completes a tumultuous year in told WWD. “We have decided to wear and men’s wear businesses, which Luciano Benetton stepped down from daily management of concentrate on ladies’ ready-to- and initiatives such as a new the firm and managing director Luigi de Puppi said he would re- wear, under the Féraud label, 3,300-square-foot Paris flagship sign in mid-May following the firm’s annual meeting. De Puppi which is the core business.” on Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré was originally brought into the firm to restructure its unprofitable De Monts said the tough eco- slated to open in July. sporting goods ventures. A successor to him has been selected, but nomic climate figured in the de- He also noted that Féraud, that person’s identity hasn’t been revealed. cision, but he added that the Féraud plans to concentrate on its which is majority-owned by company is nevertheless gun- core suit business. Here, a look for Escada AG, is seeking a new in- NEW CEO AT DORBY: Richard Silverstein has been named chief ning to grow sales by 24 percent fall 2003. vestment partner to help grow executive officer of The Dorby Group, formerly Dorby Frocks, to this year to about $46 million. the business through retail ex- succeed Richard Golden. Most recently, Silverstein was president of Last June, Féraud hired 20 stores carried the debut col- pansion and national advertis- merchandising and sales for Studio 1, a New York-based dress com- Knott, a Belgian designer who fa- lection for spring 2003, but the ing. He declined to say who po- pany. A 25-year veteran of the retail and apparel industries, mously worked alongside coutu- fall-winter line, shown earlier tential partners might be, but Silverstein “will be instrumental in expanding the franchise into rier Yves Saint Laurent for 11 this month during Paris Fashion suggested that a deal could be the department store channel of distribution,” said Stephen Ruzow, years, to energize the label with Week, would not be produced. concluded by the end of the year. president of Kellwood women’s wear. Known for its value-oriented, a runway collection priced about Five employees are affected by Also in the works are licens- branded and private label dresses and sportswear, The Dorby 50 percent higher than its bread- the shutdown, he added. ing contracts for a range of new Group consists of two divisions: Dorby and Miss Dorby. During a and-butter line. But reviews for Reached on Friday, Knott said Féraud products, including transition period, Silverstein will report to Golden, Dorby chairman the Louis Féraud Paris line were he was saddened by Féraud’s de- watches, leather goods, sun- and former ceo. Golden will retire from the company in September. lukewarm. De Monts said about cision and would now concen- glasses and costume jewelry. 3 The Little Mermaid MONDAY,WWD, 2003 31, MARCH NEW YORK — Either the gods are conspiring There’s a void here.” against them or restaurateurs Jimmy But don’t expect a replica of, say, the West Bradley and Danny Abrams just have a Village’s Pearl Oyster Bar. The Mermaid Inn knack for opening restaurants in turbulent is less expensive, for one, and the menu has times. In 2001, six days before the scheduled no lobster roll. Rather, its menu covers a debut of their TriBeCa restaurant, the range of North Atlantic seafood recipes, in- Harrison, they and cluding lobster risotto their staff witnessed balls, blue crab the horrors of 9/11 spinach dip, a unfold firsthand. And Catalonian stew and tonight, as the war spaghetti with green wages on in Iraq, the salad on top. The wine duo opens the list features 34 bottles, Mermaid Inn, a and Bradley promises casual, no- he’ll only charge $15 reservations fish above the wholesale house located at 96 price of any bottle. “A Second Avenue in the steal!” he growls. East Village, where Better yet, dessert the only thing missing is free. “No selection is a crashing surf and at all,” he says. the smell of the sea. “There’s one a night. “Lucky in business, Maybe a cup of tapio- unlucky in love,” ca, a cupcake, or a cracks Abrams as he slice of watermelon. leans on the bar on a You can accept or de- recent morning. The cline.” The check ar- staff is huddled in a rives in a sardine can. Emmanuelle Haïm corner undergoing Other New training. Englandy touches, “We have an un- masterminded by the canny sense of tim- duo, include a black- ing,” adds Bradley, 35, Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams at the Mermaid Inn. and-white clapboard the more smart-alecky ceiling and storefront, Baton Twirler of the two, with a cigarette in hand. “Opening which came from an old farm in a neighborhood restaurant before a national Pennsylvania, and the tchotches on the wall PARIS — There were murmurs of astonishment when conduc- tragedy was part of the plan all along.” — a photograph of Jackie and Jack Kennedy tor Emmanuelle Haïm, dressed in what one music critic de- However, for Bradley, the chef/owner who from the Cape Cod years, maps of the Atlantic scribed as a “sexy, short dress,” took her place in the pit to di- grew up in Narragansett, R.I., opening a New waterways and a Thirties poster Bradley eye® rect Handel’s “Rodelinda” at Britain’s prestigious England-style clam shack like the ones he wrested from a shop in a fishing community Glyndebourne Touring Opera. In the male-dominated world of knew as a child really was part of the master whose slogan, “American Fish: Eat Us Instead classical conductors, Haïm is a novelty to be sure, with her plan. Finding the right place to do it proved of Meat,” could be the restaurant’s motto. flowing auburn hair and striking features. to be more of a challenge — that is, until they Not that the fish house needs a selling Not that everyone appreciates her looks — or her sex. “A man near the discovered a space just three doors down point. After all, that’s what Bradley is for. front protested out loud,” jokes Haïm, sipping champagne at the Hotel from Frank, the beloved Italian joint that “We offer you incredible value. The Crillon bar, recalling the incident, which occurred about two years ago. “He routinely has waiting lines topping an hour. dessert concept tied in with the wine — who didn’t like that I was wearing a dress, or that I was a woman.” “The East Village has Italian, Indian, does that?” he demands, working himself Unflustered, Haïm lifted her baton and delivered a spellbinding per- Mediterranean, Thai, sushi — you name it,” into a frenzy. “Tell me — who? Think of it as formance that the critics hailed a “revelation.” Almost overnight, she says Bradley, “but it has very few chef-driv- a revolution.” emerged as the hottest new name in the increasingly popular field of en, hospitality-driven seafood restaurants. — Alison Oneacre Baroque music. A shower of invitations followed, with engagements this year in London, Stockholm and her native Paris. In May, she will make her U.S. debut, conducting Handel’s “Agrippina,” at the Chicago Opera Theater. I refuse to direct in . I don’t see “why I shouldn’t wear a dress. ” — Emmanuelle Haïm Haïm’s recording career has also taken flight. Last fall, she released her first studio recording, a rare collection of Handel’s Arcadian duets. Under con- tract with Virgin Classics, she will issue recordings later this year of Handel’s early Neapolitan cantata, “Aci, Galatea e Polifemo,” Monteverdi’s “Orfeo” (opera’s first great masterpiece) and Purcell’s “Dido” and “Aeneas,” with a star- filled cast including soprano Susan Graham and tenor Ian Bostridge. Haïm’s specialty — and passion — is music of the Baroque era, which so often spotlights her instrument, the harpsichord. “The music is very rich and suits my temperament,” she says. “Eighty percent of the music is vocal, and I love the voice. I love the stories from the operas. They’re filled with gods and goddesses and tales of tragic love. I love the theater and the beauty.” Yet what’s most remarkable about Haïm’s thunderbolt success is that it was not planned. Trained as a harpsichordist at the Paris Conservatory, Haïm, who is in her mid-30s, played for a decade after her graduation in several orchestras, most notably under the tutelage of the great American director of Baroque music, William Christie. “I didn’t think I wanted to become a conductor,” she confides. “I was quite happy playing the harpsichord.” Then, three years ago, at the urging of a friend, she agreed to conduct one of France’s star sopranos, Nathalie Dessay, in a private concert at a chateau in Rambouillet, just outside of Paris. “I was terrified,” says Haïm, her hands cutting through the air in time with her gravelly alto. “But it came off extremely well and I found the experience exhilarating. It was then that I realized that I needed to conduct.” Recruiting friends from her conservatory and performance days, she founded her own Paris-based orchestra, Le Concert d’Astree, which takes its name from Honoré d’Urfè’s vast Baroque novel. But success didn’t come immediately. “It was really quite tough,” Haïm muses, dragging on a Marlboro Light. “I did all the photocopying and office work. I called everyone, begging them for a chance to perform. I phoned Vanessa Getty Kimberly Newson OJ Shansby every foundation for a grant.” Despite her quick ascent, Haïm, dressed in a Yohji Yamamoto jacket and TEARS GO BY: “Stop, you’re making me cry,” pleaded a grinning Ralph Rucci as Tatiana short black dress, still has one complaint. “You see, I refuse to direct in Sorokko sang his praises during a lunch she gave for him last week in San Francisco, where trousers,” she says. “I don’t see why I shouldn’t wear a dress. But the prob- the designer held a trunk show at Neiman Marcus. lem is that after one performance, you’ve got to find a new one. I suppose I “I’ve known Tatiana for 15 years — she used to model for me in Paris — and she need a designer to do my wardrobe.” understands how to push my emotional buttons,” the designer joked. The requirements of Haïm’s concert wardrobe? Also there were Kimberly Newson, heavily into campaigning for her husband, Gavin, who “It has to be easy to move in,” she says. “And it has to look good from is running for mayor; Vanessa Getty, campaigning for her favorite animal rescue charity; the back.” Denise Hale; OJ Shansby, and Yurie Pascarella.

— Robert Murphy GIBBONS JOHN THOMAS BY LUNCH RUCCI ERICKSEN; KYLE BY ABRAMS AND BRADLEY FEUGERE; STEPHANE BY HAÏM 4

A rendering of the expansion. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 WWD, MONDAY,

Americana Manhasset B

By David Moin side the 8,100-square-foot Hirshleifer’s, the family- Even though luxury sales have been on the soft side owned specialty store mainstay in the Americana that since before Sept.11, 2001, Americana Manhasset’s mis- NEW YORK— Counter-intuitive? Not so, according to offers a variety of designer labels, is creating a 6,000- sion remains clear — to sharpen its luxe appeal and se- the Americana Manhasset. Despite the soft economy, the square-foot store of its own. cure its unique positioning. It’s a privately owned prop- shopping center’s current expansion is simply part of an In a few other cases, the project provides space for erty, covering 16 acres, and among the most productive ongoing strategy to pump up its luxury appeal. newcomers, such as Yves Saint Laurent, which is creat- shopping centers in the country, hitting $950 in sales The Long Island shopping center, a rarity on the sub- ing a 2,400-square-foot-shop, and Bottega Veneta, which per square foot last year, or $200 million in total sales, urban retail landscape with its high concentration of is building a 1,553-square-foot shop. give or take $10 million in recent years. chic designer shops, urbane architecture and independ- Filling in some of the space created by those moving The center anticipates sales per square foot rising to ent attitude, will extend its classic limestone facades into Section IV from elsewhere in the center, Christian about $1,025 later this year or in 2004 after all of Section and array of top European and American labels. Total Dior is planning to open a 2,700-square-foot shop in IV’s occupants are open. By comparison, mainstream space at the Americana Manhasset, after the project is malls and shopping centers average around $250 to $350 completed this fall, will be 220,000 square feet. in sales per square foot, depending on the mix of stores While Americana Manhasset executives declined to and location. discuss the cost of the project, real estate sources said Asked about the center’s recent performance, such an expansion would cost in the range of $30 mil- Castagna replied, “Business is good. We’ve been sur- lion to $40 million. prised. All the retailers saw the downturn coming be- “This is the single largest change that we’ve ever fore 9/11. However, the fact that we don’t depend on made at one time,” stated Frank Castagna, partner of tourists is why we have stayed stable. We’ll follow a re- Castagna Realty Co. Inc., developer of the center. “We’ve cession,” he acknowledged, though he added, “We just been planning on this for at least 10 to 12 years.” don’t go down into the pits. We enter the recession last During an exclusive interview about the long-await- — and we get out first.” ed expansion, designated Section IV, Castagna ex- With all the consolidation and mergers occurring in plained that the 29,000-square-foot Waldbaum’s at the the world of shopping centers, the Americana Man- center’s eastern end always resisted vacating, even hasset, a prime property, could easily be sold. However, though from the center’s perspective it was practically Castagna, who is a co-partner in the real estate compa- an eyesore. The food retailer’s apples and oranges just ny along with members of his family, said he has every PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA didn’t match up with the silk-screened Hermès scarves. Peter Marino Frank Castagna intention of holding on to what he considers his crown But Waldbaum’s lease expired last year, the building jewel and a work always in progress. “We’re not for was razed and another 11,000 square feet of retail and August, and Burberry plans to expand to 5,000 square sale,” he said. restaurant space was torn down, setting in motion a feet from its current 2,900 square feet. The Burberry ex- While he is very involved in finding new tenants, 40,000-square-foot expansion/renovation project. The pansion should be ready to receive customers in late even traveling to Europe to learn about emerging objective is to create real upscale harmony and do what spring of 2004. brands and to attend fashion shows, John J. Gutleber hardly any other shopping centers do — cast an image Recently, two other high-end businesses moved in serves as president and chief executive officer, making of elegance. near Section IV. Salvatore Ferragamo opened a 3,755- sure the Americana runs smoothly. Diedre Costa Major For several designers already housed in the center, square-foot shop and a 2,700-square-foot Payard serves as senior vice president and creative director, the expansion means relocating to larger shops, en- Patisserie & Bistro opened last June. and Andrea Sanders is vice president and director of abling them to show their collections the way they want For the Americana Manhasset, Section IV is just the branding and communications. to — in full. For example, Louis Vuitton will open a latest phase in what’s been an active process at the cen- When the Americana Manhasset debuted in October 5,000-square-foot “global” shop, while Brooks Brothers ter of relocating tenants and finding new ones. There’s 1956, it was a typical strip center, with a drive-through is taking a 12,750-square-foot, two-level space. St. John rarely a time when the center isn’t fully leased, and the bank, a Chinese restaurant and, overall, a lower grade is moving to a 5,000-square-foot space, and Coach is tak- designers, according to Castagna, sign 10- to 15-year of retail, with such tenants as Lerner’s and Bakers ing 2,700 square feet. leases. “Any top-flight tenant is not about to take a five- Shoes. Castagna Realty still has some conventional Also, Gucci, which formerly had a small boutique in- year lease,” he said. holdings, such as the moderate-priced, family-oriented 5 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2003 31, MARCH

Builds a Bigger Footprint

Wheatley Plaza, in Greenvale, N.Y., and two residential rary, clean look for the center, limitations have been put come primarily from several other wealthy Long Island developments, Rock Rim Pond in Pound Ridge, N.Y., on such things as graphics and lighting, and Marino’s towns, such as Great Neck, Sands Point, Roslyn, and Brady Brook Falls in Pawling, N.Y. It also has com- approval of everybody’s facade is required. “The ten- Brookville and Locust Valley, though the Americana mercial property in Garden City, N.Y. ants are happy to comply, but we would never do any- Manhasset draws as far west as Manhattan, east to However, Castagna has maintained a different vision thing that would hurt their brands,” Castagna said. The Oyster Bay in Nassau County, and north to south, from for the Americana Manhasset for more than 20 years, restrictions are flexible enough so that designers can the Long Island Sound to Garden City. evolving it into a rare breed in retailing that includes put their signature stamps on their stores and how they Aside from a few designer shops situated on some of Bal Harbour Shops in Miami, The Atrium at Chestnut look, while there’s continuity in the architecture Long Island’s fancier main streets and a few situated in Hill near Boston, and Highland Park Village in Dallas. through the center. Louis Vuitton, for example, will be the Roosevelt Field Shopping Center in Garden City, the And Americana Manhasset occasionally gets compared practically a glass box, yet it will have a limestone roof. Americana Manhasset faces little competition. “Our to South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., as well, Yves Saint Laurent will have a black frame broken up strongest competitor is New York City,” Castagna said. which is also independently owned and, like the by limestone sections and big glass windows. However, there could one day be stiffer competition, Americana, has a very hands-on owner/management, While the Americana lineup of 42 stores does in- so Castagna feels there’s no better time than the present and an upscale lineup of designer shops. However, it’s a clude Gap and Talbots, these moderate, value-minded to strengthen the business. Taubman Centers, which has regional megamall, with multiple anchors and sections businesses are a small minority and getting smaller. a portfolio of high-end malls, is seeking to build one in serving up different price points. Oyster Bay on Long Island, where Neiman Marcus On the other hand, the smaller Americana Manhasset, This is the single largest wants to open a store. But that project has for several a peanut in comparison to South Coast Plaza and other years been stalled by politics and local opposition for such regional centers, has intimacy, which few centers “change that we’ve ever made at traffic and environmental reasons. The situation is not can boast, especially because there are no anchor de- about to be resolved soon, since Taubman is battling a partment stores and it’s open-air. The result is often de- one time. We’ve been planning on takeover attempt by Simon Properties, the nation’s scribed as the Madison Avenue of suburbia. Moreover, largest shopping center developer and operator. the center is elegantly landscaped by the world- this for at least 10 to 12 years. While that situation may always be in the back of renowned landscape architects Oehme, van Sweden & Castagna’s mind, he hasn’t let up on the remerchandis- Associates. Castagna says over $360,000 is spent annually — Frank Castagna, Castagna Realty Co. Inc.” ing effort. It’s intensified since 1996, with, among other on flowers alone, and more is spent on keeping up the or- brands, Escada, Escada Sport, Prada, Max Mara, namental grasses and perennials, creating a meadow There are also some tenants in the bridge and better- Emporio Armani, , Rizzoli, London around the center’s perimeter. Near the stores, there’s a price point zones, such as Ann Taylor, Dana Buchman Jewelers and the nation’s first freestanding Estée more manicured look with ground covers and annuals. and Banana Republic, and Ellen Tracy will be moving Lauder Salon & Spa locating in the center since then. The master plan was devised by store designer Peter in this year. Still, the lineup overall is 85 percent true Castagna and his team see the constant tweaking of Marino roughly two decades ago. His association with designer, with such brands as Ralph Lauren, Fendi and Americana as similar to working over a very high-end the Americana Manhasset has continued through the Barneys New York, and the customer base truly has department store. There are similarities, considering years, right up to the current expansion. Best known for money. The center’s customer has an average house- the limited amount of space that’s available to work creating retail spaces like Barneys New York on hold income of $155,000, and a median home value of with and the politics of dealing with the always-de- Madison Avenue, Marino was hardly gung ho to work for $1.25 million. manding designer crowd. As Castagna explained, it’s an Castagna at first, and copped an attitude of his own. But as Castagna sees it, it’s not the smell of wealth ongoing, delicate process, involving renegotiating leas- “Peter told me, “I don’t do shopping centers,” Castagna that makes the initial impression. It’s the smell of the es, and waiting for leases to expire. recalled. flowers, which is perfectly fine by him. “Section IV opens up a whole new avenue, a whole However, Castagna, who is known for his patience “The first thing people say is, ‘Don’t you love the new perspective, but it doesn’t end here,” Castagna and reserved, methodical manner, continued to pitch flowers?’” observed Castagna. “I think of flowers as said. “We’re always anticipating changes as new trends the Americana Manhasset and eroded Marino’s resist- fashion.” and new designers arise.” ance. “Peter didn’t say a lot, but he was a good listener, The center is located along a 1,469-foot stretch at The remerchandising process, he said, is “like a per- and he finally agreed.” 2110 Northern Boulevard, by the intersection of petual chess game, of moving the pieces, but in some ways With Marino’s master plan establishing a contempo- Searingtown Road in monied Manhasset. Shoppers it’s simpler. That’s because we’ve become more focused. 6

Alberta Ferretti Trend Les Copains WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, 7 WWD, MONDAY,WWD, 2003 31, MARCH TheReturnof the Flapper Brush up on the Charleston. Flapper looks are back, with beaded dresses; side-wrap, fur-collared coats; cloche hats, and lots and lots of fringe. You’ll wish you could shimmy like your sister Kate.

Dries Van Noten Blumarine Anna Molinari PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA MAURICIO AND MAESTRI DAVIDE GIANNONI, GIOVANNI BY PHOTOS 8 Innerwear Report Getting Into the ‘Chicago’ Mood

By Karyn Monget

NEW YORK — “Chicago” is jazzing up consumers and designers alike. The movie, which won six Academy WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, Awards on March 23, showcases overtly sexy daywear, , and . As a result, retailers said the ap- petite for specialty lingerie items in the last few months has generated sales gains of 17 to 30 percent in corsetry as well as in Twenties- and Thirties-in- spired daywear. Now, stores and design- ers are scrambling to add key items for late-fall selling. Kal Ruttenstein, Bloomingdale’s senior vice president of fashion direction, said: “The trend has received written verifica- CLAY JAMES tion” in the media and at retail. All of the tremendous TV play the movie is getting, plus the exposure of Catherine Zeta-Jones and Renée Zellweger singing the signa- ture song of the movie in hosiery and min- islips has certainly promoted this trend.” Donna Wolff, vice president and divi- sional merchandise manager of intimate apparel and hosiery at Bloomingdale’s, said she believes the “spillover” from the success of fishnet hosiery sales influ- enced by the film has already impacted lingerie business this season and is gen- erating positive results in two classifica- tions: bustiers and “beautifully soft, un- constructed and sexy-looking daywear.” “Those daywear items are already very hot for fall and bustiers are selling very TOP TRENDS well right now. We plan to do a major Soft, unconstructed triangle and ‘Chicago’-inspired promotion this fall,” said Wolff, noting that the retailer al- coordinating retro . ready held a similar promotion for Garters, whether a single on hosiery in January and that daywear busi- the thigh, or garters attached to ness is up 17 percent against a year ago. ,control briefs, waist Anne Caetano, dmm of intimate ap- cinchers, corsets or micro skirts. parel at Saks Fifth Avenue, said daywear sales, particularly items that have a pret- Modern and vintage-looking bustiers. ty, vintage look, have increased 25 to 30 Shimmer and shine, from antique- percent. She added that more corsetry looking laces with Lurex to pearls and was featured in Saks’ “core book” for gold, silver and jet black beads. March and more corsets and bustiers will be highlighted in April mailers. Anything with mesh, fringe, fur trim, “Obviously, the film has had an im- marabou or fishnet. pact, even in sleepwear that has a day- Velvets, especially retro burnout looks.

wear look that is definitely ‘Chicago’-in- HAIR: HARLOR; SALLY FOR ING ANNIE MAKE-UP: FRANCISCHINI/SUPREME, CAROLINE MODEL: QUEEN, BOBBI BY STYLED TURNER, DAVID BY PHOTOS spired,” said Caetano. “As a matter of Clockwise from top left: Claire Pettibone's black floral-pattern stretch lace cami dress with soft top on a champagne ground; Mariposa’s black fact, I’m looking for garters to go with fringe and lace halter top and matching fringe ; Ying Lee’s Thirtie’s-inspired oversized black and red floral-printed sheer and . The trend is actually all en- coordinating dressing robe; Moni McCleary for Loungewear Betty’s ostrich-trimmed black velvet cocoon wrap; Catherine Zeta-Jones wore lots of compassing. You need the whole ensem- soft, unconstructed silk and silk robes in sultry dark hues in the Oscar winning film ‘Chicago.’ Whether in prison or the boudoir, Renée ble to complete the mood.” Zellweger constantly wore boxy little semisheer chemises and vintage-printed silk robes in dusty pales. As an example, Caetano said hosiery departments at Saks now merchandise described as selling “extremely well.” ideas, silhouettes, laces and glamorous people are starting to look back to the novelty hosiery with intimate pieces on Christine Ansari, dmm at Frederick’s looks are inspired by the musical.” nostalgia of the Twenties and Thirties.” mannequins in hosiery departments as of Hollywood, said that while Frederick’s Key ideas for spring 2004 will in- Kim said she plans to work on a num- well as in intimate apparel departments. has always specialized in “Chicago” clude the introduction of silks and rigid ber of ideas for garters and garter belts, She further noted that corsetry in particu- looks, she has seen an increased demand laces, soft triangle bras, bias-cut slips as well as rich-looking solid velvets and lar has been a key item and is a segment of for particular products since the movie and chemises that are “kind of boxy retro burnout velvets. the intimates business that is “coming to hit the screens. looking but sexy,” she said, adding, “I’m Toronto-based Banu Khurana, design- fruition” since the release of “Chicago.” “We think certain aspects of the movie also bringing in garters, something I’ve er of Khurana daywear and sleepwear, Best-selling brands include La Perla Black will influence trends going forward. In never done before.” said her best-booking items for fall are Label, Aubade, , , particular, an emphasis on garters, Los Angeles-based Claire Pettibone soft, pliable bra tops and coordinating Chantal Thomass, daywear by Natori and whether it’s garters on slips, garters on noted: “I loved the silk robes in the movie. retro tap pants, as well as fuchsia and a black retro bustier by Natori, which she tap pants and garters on panties. The Very decadent looking. Spring 2004 would black lace panties. overall feeling of the dance number in be a good time to do those robes. Silky pa- “We’re always into things that have a prison with strappy black lingerie also is jamas and kimonos and little chemises, retro look, but now it’s more glamorized, an important influence,” said Ansari. and camis and tap pants are a natural not just vintage pale colors,” said “Because of ‘Chicago,’ lots of cus- now. I’ll be using very delicate silks and Khurana, noting that the shimmery lin- INTIMATE NOTES tomers are coming in asking for boy-cut laces with unconstructed, pretty-looking gerie in the musical has inspired her to DOZING OFF: St. Eve International has signed like the ones worn by Zeta-Jones daywear and sleepwear. There’s definite- use more dramatic special effects. For a licensing agreement with Montreal-based and Zellweger,” said Rebecca Apsan, ly room in the market for those looks.” holiday, she said the focus will be on “lots lingerie manufacturer Dozing Off to produce owner of La Petite Coquette, a lingerie “I loved ‘Chicago’ so much that I got a of silver and glamorous black with a bit of private label and branded St. Eve underwear, boutique in Manhattan. “My boy-cut jump-start for fall,” said Moni McCleary, gold, as well as stark white charmeuse. sleepwear and daywear for women, as well as shorts business has grown 20 percent designer of Loungewear Betty. “I’m doing I’m also thinking of doing silk garters and the St. Eve for Kids label for boys and girls. over the past couple of months.” chemises with soft triangle bras; a ton of corsets with built-in garters.” Distribution in the Canadian market is Top-selling brands include Eberjey, ; a fishnet halter top with low- Flora Nikrooz, designer of Flora aimed at department stores and mass Fleur’t, Peekaboo by M. Milien, Damaris, waisted panties that tie on the side; a lit- Nikrooz Lingerie, said the movie has merchants. Shipments are scheduled for July. Loungewear Betty, Snatch, Zazi and tle polkadot mesh skirt with garters, and inspired her to introduce more day- The line is expected to have first-year Buttress, said Apsan. bustiers with garters. Response has been wear and sleepwear that “looks ex- sales of $500,000, said Todd Demakos, The push at the designer end for very good, and I plan to do more tremely seductive.” chief executive officer of St. Eve. “Chicago”-inspired items is taking place ‘Chicago’ looks for holiday and spring.” “Instead of concentrating on floral “The products will have the same primarily in the domain of new, entre- Christine Kim, designer of the day- laces, I’ll be showing more geometric-pat- fashion look as our St. Eve merchandise in preneurial companies or the young de- wear and sleepwear label Mariposa, tern laces of that era. The glitz will be very the U.S.,” he added. signer arena. said: “I’m sticking with this ‘Chicago’ important, and I’ll be doing a lot of pearls A wholesale price range has not been Designer Leigh Bantivoglio, said, “It’s thing for holiday. I think it’s going to be a and shiny beads on chiffons and finalized. been all subliminal. I saw the movie, and big hit in lingerie. We’ve gone through charmeuse in silhouettes that are bias-cut I thought, ‘my gosh,’ a lot of my new the Sixties, Seventies and Eighties. Now, and feature geometric flairs,” said Nikrooz. WWD Accessories/Legwear In Depth Section ll

mod odyssey The swinging accessories scene is glancing back to the Sixties, turning out bold and graphic Op Art-inspired styles. Chelsea boots, geometric Lucite jewelry and a dose of flower power are some of the looks making designers mad for Mod. In challenging economic times, accessories remain a bright star in the fashion galaxy. The $30 billion accessories market is highly fragmented, but handbags and jewelry are the sector’s largest categories. The socks business has risen in recent years, while sales of sheer hosiery units have fallen. Here, Bags by Boris’ Ultrasuede bags at Fiona Walker. PHOTOS BYSTYLEDERICKSEN; KYLE BY JULIA TOPOLSKI WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 2 that carry accessories, there are surprisingly few acces- few surprisingly are there accessories, carry that wardrobes.” their update to use people which products “Accessoriesrecession-proof office. are buying Group Doneger The at sories acces- for manager merchandise Rudinsky, Deborah said at pockets of opportunity and funding those opportunities,” Taylor, offerings. Ann apparel as non- such their boost to continue H&M chains and Republic Banana specialty and room more category the giving and chains other Targetamong are accessories. Corp. Kohl’s to space more devote can it so recently decided to get rid of much of its beauty offerings their investment in accessories. J.C. Penney, for example, by license under made WathneLtd. collection, handbag their first women’s its of unveiled elements recently example, lifestyle for Nautica, the brand. up build to attempt an in categories accessories more adding also are Nautica Vittadini.Adrienne and Bros. Brooks Retail Brand Alliance, the budding conglomerate by acquisitions that also owns Carolee firm jewelry recent of purchase the Other include jewelry. Hilfiger Tommy Napier, Jack, Judith Enzo AngioliniandGloriaVanderbilt, as aswelllicensed such brands are fold Jones Under the license. under Cole Kenneth for jewelry as well as as Monet, Dungarees, Brand label, Lucky Olsen, Sigrid namesake as well its are for jewelry and accessories categories. accessories into brands fashion ing exist- their expanding also are they and companies, bag hand- and jewelry smaller of number a up snapped have ion firms such as Liz Claiborne and Jones Apparel Group fash- Big acquisitions. for area attractive an become has firms accessories business, the in margins highest the of As market. one of accessories the best performing segments in the fashion with some in consolidation of amount ring. the into baubles their throwing homemakers former to celebrities and models an been especially ripe has area for introduction, from with everyone Jewelry impressive. been has accessories Bottega VenetaMcCartney. Leiber,Stella and Judith Coach, are bandwagon eyewear the on jumping those Among category. the entered have designers high-end of number a as late, of activity with percolating been also has Eyewear come. to months for the Oscars, will the likely category continue to strong run styles. chandelier and oversized especially year,last the in category key a earrings, and Northeast, the in weather winter cold the during handy especially in came which scarves, town; over all events and mieres pre- at starlets and celebrities by worn been have which watchers. market and utives depart- categories, most at largest exec- ment storesandlargechains,accordingtoindustry sales sector sector’s of bulk the the for are accounting jewelry and hand- legwarmers, bags and eyewear to everything belts and encompasses hats from sector accessories the While pie. the of piece their for vying firms small of hundreds with fragmented highly is market the billion, $30 about individuality.”their express to accessories using is market younger the and to used they like season each market Marshall the said research firm.“Nooneisgoingtoreplacetheirwardrobe NPDFashionworld, wardrobe,” of their co-president update Cohen, to women for fashion right now and accessories are an inexpensive way run. their continue to poised well are accessories gling, the when time a strug- are sales apparel and along At sputtering is can economy accessories. women many constant: too remains have that never thing one is there floors. retail on category the for space more and comers world for the last few years, leading to an explosion of new- NEW YORK — Kletter Melanie By SECTION II SECTION but room to grow lhuh hr ae lny f ag ad ml stores small and large of plenty are there Although looking and centers profit examining is retailer “Every up stepping are stripes all of stores level, retail the At and Klein Anne Corp., Kellwood as such Firms makes and owns Claiborne Liz brands the Among considerable a been has there time, same the At of manner all into getting newcomers of number The at earrings large wearing stars many the by Judging hats, include recently categories standout Other at estimated are sales accessories overall Although on money of lot a spend to willing not are “Consumers shifts, cyclical undergoing always is sector the While acrowded acrowded field, ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH IN ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR Accessories haveledthepackinfashion apparel, they are among the many firms who have who firms many the among are they apparel, in start their got Karan Donna and Lauren Ralph cate- accessories gories. Althoughdesigners suchasGiorgioArmani, into names whom their of licensed have many designers, apparel by dominated rapidly also shores. these on units new adding are Ferragamo as and such Veneta brands Bottega Italian in High-end stores months. new Kate recent added Bourke, have also & Furla while and Dooney Spade nameplate, as such its firms under handbag stores new out roll to continues example, for Coach, stores. own their opening aggressively a been have vendors of number this, to response in Perhaps chains. sories-only or Accessory You Splurged on? te:10.48% 1.59% 1.90% 14.92% 5.71% 2.86% 1.90% 16.19% Other: Suit: 6.98% 4.76% 5.40% Jacket/coat Scarf: 6.98% Socks/stockings: 4.13% 1.27% Sweater: 5.40% Skirt: 5.71% 1.59% Slacks or other pants: Jeans: Formal shoes: Sneakers: Casual shoes: 2.22% Underwear: Shorts: T-shirt: Blouse: Belt: Hat or other head gear: Silk gloves: One million dozen pairs, $3 million Man-made fiber gloves: 19 million dozen pairs, $118 million Wool gloves: One million dozen pairs, $15 million Cotton gloves: 51 million dozen pairs, $116 million 1.9blin$43 ilo -1.5 % $14.37 Change billion February 2003 $14.59 billion February 2002 SOURCE: U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT SOURCE: U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT SOURCE: LOOK-LOOK INC. uh f h upred f h bsns i now is business the of upper-end the of Much Glove Imports Glove for Imports the Year What is the Clothing Last and Accessories Stores Retail Sales at Clothing Ending 2001 Women 14to30 Table Three Table One Table Two aeul, Rdnk ntd “ot im wn to want firms complete their business with offerings.” head-to-toe “Most noted. Rudinsky more carefully,” category the at looking are accessories with offerings. well- are non-apparel other that and handbags their Prada for known and Gucci as such produce panies com- of to ranks the chosen joining accessories, have own their that those among are last few years, Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta entire an present to clothing. of line new seek a acces- just than rather lifestyle, with designers filled as been have sories, years few past the entered accessories via licenses. Runway shows for on Clothes/Accessories/Footwear Sunglasses Do Women Own? How Much Do Women Spend I hn bad ta dnt ae n association an have don’t that brands think “I the In alone. it go to choosing are firms Some What is the Most Amount of Money Women Have Spent on a Pair of Sunglasses? ie 2.76% 7.09% 5.12% 14.57% 32.28% 29.13% 9.06% More than Five: Five: Four: Three: Two: One: None: 11$0: 4.33% 3.15% 2.36% 8.27% 5.91% 6.30% 0.79% More than $200: 5.51% $151-$200: 14.57% $136-$150: 30.31% $100-$135: 12.60% $76-$100: $50-$75: 5.91% $41-$50: $31-$40: $21-$30: $11-$20: $5-$10: Less than $5: SOURCE: LOOK-LOOK INC. SOURCE: LOOK-LOOK INC. SOURCE: LOOK-LOOK INC. 0.60% 4.02% 7.34% 11.26% Over $500 each month: 14.37% $251-$500 each month: 15.48% $151-$250 each month: 27.64% 19.30% $101-$150 each month: $75-$100 each month: $51-$75 each month: $21-$50 each month: $0-$20 each month: Purchases Each Month How Many Pairs of Women 14to30 Women 14to30 Women 14to30 Table Five Table Four Table Six NOVELTY ACCESSORIES SMALL LEATHER GOODS HANDBAGS FASHION HEADWEAR HOSIERY BACKPACKS COLD WEATHER ACCESSORIES SCARVES BELTS HAIR ACCESSORIES 212.842.3000 • www.accessorynetwork.com SEW HOBO WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 4 survival of the fittest the of survival fully been able to turn its business around with a co- a with around business its turn to able been fully success- years recent in has firm goods leather based York-New the Krakoff, Reed of guidance creative the Under momentum. main-floor in pack main-floor Biasia, EtienneAignerandMaxxNewYork. FrancescoBourke, & Dooney Monet, Vittadini, West,Adrienne DKNY,Nine Haan, Cole Carolee, Claiborne, order,Liz particular no in include, These stores. department major in frequency heavy with players main-floor key several are there tier, — forcreativity. open-to-buy necessary and — room little leaves that system matrix set a on work to forced are buyers that adding wayside, the by fallen has product compelling that lament often vendors ment, the endofseason. at issues chargeback cepting ac- and tab markdown the up picking including floor, main the on be to concessions vast make to asked often are dors ven- promotions, price with traffic store stimulate to ing try- increasingly are retailers As stores. department support to strategy marketing strong and record sell-through solid a need often brands fashion and Designers spiral. ditions con- economic as severe more accordingly.floor isshifting main the and days, these signer de- accessories an be to wants everybody rooms, living their in beads stringing moms soccer to deals licensing with out ing branch- designers and brands lion accessoriesbusiness. bil- $30 the of share a for vying nonstop, up popping faces fresh now are there cessories, ac- on exclusively focused who players established few a were dramatically.there once Where changed has momentum floor an easierandclarifiedway.” in customer the to ideas ion fash- best the of some forward put to opportunity the creates also It audience. broadest the to yourself expose to ability the you gives It critical. is floor main “The added: Haan, Cole of officer executive chief ing ones.” last- are impressions first And store. department a into walks she when gets consumer our brand the of impression first the It’s seriously. very it take “WeInc. Claiborne Liz at dent presi- group Bucciarelli, Ed said floor,” store department any of floor trafficked most cold-weather goods. and sunglasses watches, fashion jewelry, costume to goods leather and handbags from gamut the covers assortment Typically,today.the retail in areas tive competi- and crowded most the among floor,is main stand outfromthecrowd. to work extra of lot a takes it where environment overstimulating and busy loud, a in themselves find rope velvet the past it make eventually who those but in, get to hard incredibly It’s nightclub: trendy a like — YORK NEW Karimzadeh Marc By SECTION II SECTION According to industry sources, Coach leads the leads Coach sources, industry to According store the on depending variations are there While environ- tough a such In become rules survival The apparel Fromestablished main- the years, recent In and president Rubel, Matt the still is floor main “The the on located often department, accessories The ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH IN ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR The department store main floor is floor main store department The spring adcampaign. Dooney &Bourke’s hobo forfall. patchwork Coach’s about 25percentinthequarter. rose sales point-of-sale as stores department U.S. at and specialmarkets,rose56percentto$117.1million. operations wholesale international stores, department U.S. Japan, Coach including sales, Indirect year. previ- ous the from million $308.5 to percent 30.9 up shot Sales 28. Dec. ended quarter second the in million thedepartmentstoremainfloor.sumers whoperuse con- for desirable this made and house goods leather American preeminent a as image Coach’s veyed con- that stores of slew a and effort marketing strong a assortment, accessories fashion-forward hesive, statements to simplify the shoppingexperience. statements tosimplify trend clear and — floor main the through hurries she as attention consumer’s the grab to designs colorful more fresher, pushing — assortment product their updating started have players Many circles. sories across multiplechannelsanddifferentgeographies.” luxury accessible offers accessories in else one “No Frankfortannounced. were figures the time the at said Lew officer executive chief and chairman Coach base,” consumer classic strong our maintain and chise fran- the to consumers stylish and new of number ing grow- a attract we as share market growing a is sance, oc eprecd infcn icess n sales in increases significant experienced Coach $62.4 to profits in leap percent 41.4 a posted Coach oc’ sces a nt oe noie i acces- in unnoticed gone not has success Coach’s renais- our during experiencing, are we “What fall assortment. Cole Haan’s item from A topbooking for thecustomerto understand it.” easier it make to and product the merchandise help to really is “It Piotti. said them,” compress and prices Piotti, vicepresidentofsalesatAignerGroup Inc. Jim to according is, percent 5 only year, this while $100, over was line the of percent 45 also fall, Last slashed. was floor main the on point price average The eight. only are there now points, price 18 of range a in available were goods leather Aigner ago, year a Over assortment. its in points price of number the reduce department stores.” for important are others and stores specialty for clusive growing onthemainfloor. insiderssaidthatthebrandsare client base.Industry new a add to messages advertising strong duced intro- and collections goods leather their in tient quo- fashion and color the up stepped seasons cent clear andtitillating,themorewewillcontinuetowin.” are that messages with her hit can we more the ment, depart- the through running consumer.is the she to As messages item cohesive more telling and items, pulse im- and merchandise of collection about more become has “It Claiborne. at Bucciarelli said merchandise,” “We thought it was more critical to simplify the simplify to critical more was it thought “We to effort an made has meanwhile, Aigner, Etienne Gary said changing,” is competition the area, our “In re- in have Bourke & Dooney and Haan Cole Both of collections about was floor main “Previously,the Etienne Aigner. A falllookby main floor mainstay ecutive. “Some things are ex- are things “Some ecutive. ex- account senior Maxx’s aum, Alb- Robyn said versa,” vice and stores specialty in found be can stores department stores tostandoutinthecrowd. exclusivedepartment to designs offers also company The $100. under tag price a and store department tier second the targeting collection, MX priced lower- a with collection its ed better pricingpolicy. ping storesfromdemandinga stop- not that’s But tag. price higher a carry often which brands, aspirational for look to continue women cause be- underperforming been has point price moderate the — flourish to product less-expensive expect would one when — economy lenging chal- the despite that marked Lancel businessintheU.S. loss-making its back scale to planned it said and 31 March ending year the in percent 40 to up by fall could profits erating op- its that warned Richemont month, this earlier But strom. Nord- including accounts, floor main- of network a and rollout store a advertising, nationwide including fanfare, much with market, U.S. the in player major a becoming at aimed AG, mont Riche- Financière Compagnie of division a Lancel, firm goods players French2001, leather In abound. main-floor about speculations and rumors and — success to road the on lenges chal- major face firms clines, de- traffic store and fierce more with them.” compete we and accessories into ventured have companies Ready-to-wear companies. accessories and handbags only were that companies be er brandedarea.Thereusedto design- a become to continues it because competitive more “It’s president. vice executive Bourke’s & Dooney Dembart, “Not everything that’s in the in that’s everything “Not extend- Yorkhas New Maxx re- executives Some becomes competition As

WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 6 “There is a big part of the business that is not sexy,not is that business the of part big a is “There designer: accessories Totentengo, Rafe perseverance.” plus ambition, and dream a have Basically,are. to customers have their you who know to need They stores. the shop and go to people age encour- I and market, the of knowledge have to have Youbusiness. Youabout clue a have also to have Finance101. Business take designers: tell always also I time. each start fresh a have and selves them- edit to able be to have industry the samba. one-note a just not is and level, next the to go can it if see and power staying has tion collec- a Weif market. see the to in look what’s from it differentiate to something be to has there and unique be to have products Their ideas. their communicate to ability the and uct prod- own their in belief commitment, serious and talent have Fragmentswho designers are at for look we What business. this enter to showroom: Fragments of owner an Goldman, Janet small companiesgrowandbesuccessful.” tomesee gratifying companies, andit’svery it andtopersevere.Ihaveworkedwithmany have tobelieveinyourselfenoughstaywith well andcontinuallyknowyourmarket.You and havealong-rangestrategy. creative aspects,youneedtobecapitalized you havetobeorganized.Inadditionthe abusiness.Evenin asmallcompany,running to ative idea,andgoodorganizationiscrucial designers havetoanewideaandcre- sories atNeimanMarcus: Sandra Wilson,fashiondirectorforacces- business. accessories healthy a sustain and build to takes it think they what out find to designers and showrooms executives,retail with spoke WWD growth, continued for poised seem accessories when undertaking. serious a is arena accessories the entering business, the financing to sourcing Fromright attest. the can finding business the in many as looks, it as easy as always not is room. show- Group Design Metropolitan of owner Levy,Stephanie said offerings,” accessories their increasing are stores ready-to-wear more strong. runs still spirit entrepreneurial the and orders minimum for factories from demands less are There designers. unknown on chances more take to willing are often stores apparel, than margins higher carry usually they since and retailers, for tions classifica- standout been have scarves and sector.the jewelry,give Handbags, watches they dollars open-to-buy and space of amount the increase to stores many causing sories, acces- of manner all for robust particularly business.” jewelry a start and home at beads string to easy now,it’s think and working not are they that frustrated and off laid are people of lot A people. new from day a calls 25 get “I said: showroom, O’Connor that. just do some and gems, some and idea an just with room living their in business jewelry a start can they think Many materials. raw of outlay larger a and sizing, and struction con- fabric of skills technical more requires which instance, for apparel, than enter shelves. retail overcrowded already W Kletter Melanie By SECTION II SECTION “Designers who have lasted a long time in time long a lasted have who “Designers “Also, it’simportanttodoyourhomework time a At it? make to take it does what So arena accessories However,the into jumping and category the in [interest] huge is “There been have years four last the Nonetheless, O’Connor,Cynthia Cynthia of president to easier industry dollar billion $30 the view Many ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH IN ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR “There so many people who want who people many so “There stand out in a crowd a in out stand looking to eke out some space on space some out eke to looking newcomers with teeming is sector the Stefani, Gwen as such entrants high-profile with Along days? these line accessories isn’tan ho starting “New accessories expert advice: called Mixiblue. from anewline Here, alook business. accessories flooding the Newcomers are alone, but they really need a business partner,business a need some- really they but alone, linings. and zippers and hardware as such about think to have you things are there bag, a designing to comes it when Even factories. with working and credit of letters opening as such issues and chargebacks, and codes are there control, quality production, shipping, is There that. address to don’twant people creative of lot a and O’Connor showroom: O’Connor Cynthia of president O’Connor, Cynthia business.” this in it make to organization and planning structure, takes It buyers. for easy it make and try also and yourself market to have you but bag, cute a be may it end, the In side. business the on them with work can who one things out of their house and say it’s a business. 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RITA WILCOX PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO UTAH

www.stonemountainhandbags.com WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 8 SECTION II SECTION at YvetteFry. and metalwatches Splash’s suede ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH IN ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR mod mod odyssey mod Marchon. sunglasses at Fendi’s plastic Marchon. sunglasses at Fendi’s plastic leather boot. Cole’s patent boot andKenneth Morrison’s python Sigerson and swingwiththelatestModmixofaccessories. Take atriptoCarnabyStreetandgroove, shake Alain Mikli’splasticframes. 9 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 TOPOLSKI JULIA BY STYLED ERICKSEN, KYLE BY PHOTOS plastic and metal Donna Karan Eyewear’s sunglasses at Marchon. Tommy Hilfiger’s patent leather and suede clutch. Tommy Erickson Beamon’s resin and metal earrings at Showroom Seven. resin and metal earrings Erickson Beamon’s Plastic and metal bracelet from Noir by Catalan. Alex & Ani’s LuciteAlex bracelets. Resin necklace by Kenneth Jay Lane. necklace Resin 10 SECTION II

ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH europeans on the prowl

WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, By Amanda Kaiser would be an edgy studded bag with a chain strap. in Milan in 2001 have grown sales of those items to make Another cylindrical case with bamboo detailing that up 24 percent of the group’s total revenue, which came ough economic times are stretching shop- sold well in the spring is also returning next season. to $1.39 billion in 2002. Key looks for fall include exotic pers’ budgets more than ever, but Europe’s Tod’s is also targeting growth for its namesake collec- skins such as crocodile and ostrich, but Armani said accessories players are on a mission to woo tion and younger Hogan brand.The company was mum its signature bag of the season is a small black-and- women into at least one splurge this season on the state of orders, but said sales this fall should be white tote in satin and leather costing $906 at retail. T on a key item like that must-have bag. swift for its two Hogan models, the “We are confident we will be well Whether it’s leaders like Gucci and Prada tighten- Bijoux, a soft, rectangular bag in placed to capitalize on the upturn ing their grasp of the market, storied fashion houses suede, and the biker bag in in the economic cycle which can like Armani and Versace growing their comparatively leather, which features detailing be expected within the next 12 to small accessories businesses, or emerging designers like knotted handles and exteri- 18 months,” said an Armani like DSquared and Vanessa Bruno launching their or zippered compartments. spokeswoman. own lines, everybody seems bent on creating the next LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Versace said it is too early to bag so hot it will convince even the most hesitant Vuitton-controlled Fendi said give an indication of accessories spender to dig a little deeper in her pockets. sales of its fall accessories are Prada’s fall handbags orders for next season, but the Italian exports of handbags, luggage and small currently up 18 percent. The feature interchangeable business is steadily growing, leather goods dropped 10 percent in the January to company said it has seen a lot of leather handles. thanks to recently implemented November period of last year to $1.8 billion, according to success with the newest ver- strategies like more focused price data from industry organization AIMPES. Dollar figures sions of the Biga, a slouchy, asym- positioning and improved distri- are converted from the euro at current exchange rates. metric shoulder bag that is espe- bution and communication. Sales With disheartening numbers like that, designers cially popular in bronze python. of accessories, including increas- have their work cut out for them. “It’s a positive result,” said a ing revenue streams from watches “There’s so much competition in accessories right spokeswoman. “Certainly the and eyewear, make up 30 percent of now. Everybody thinks accessories are the new gold- war could bring repercussions. A Versace’s turnover for its top line. en egg,” said Bergdorf Goodman chairman and chief lot depends on how long it lasts.” The best-selling bag of the season executive officer Ron Frasch. There’s plenty of buzz on the is a crescent-shaped biker car- Paola Durante, an analyst with Merrill Lynch in accessories front in France, as ryall with external zipper Milan, said that based on data from listed companies well. New accessories remain a compartments. in the sector, leather goods appear to be outperform- driving force at Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana is also ing other product categories such as watches, jewelry the pace of introductions will ac- trying to diversify its product and apparel. Quality, service and proper price posi- celerate in 2003. Handbags and small leather offering. In late February, tioning are essential, she said. goods in multicolored versions of the famous the company opened its “My impression is that…the brand will count more LV monogram, a collaboration between cre- first store dedicated and more and that we will see a natural selection ative director Marc Jacobs and Japanese entirely to acces- that is normal in a difficult environment,” she said. artist Takashi Murakami, are slated to ar- sories on Milan’s Versace’s brown On the upside, tentative consumers could actually rive in stores next month and winter-ap- Via Della Spiga. bode well for at least one Italian company. Furla presi- propriate versions of the mono- crescent biker bag “It’s a slice of dent and ceo Giovanna Furlanetto said her brand, which gram, with a black back- with zipper detail. our product offer- has lower price points than those of many designer ac- ground, should arrive ing that we are cessories businesses, is well placed to take advantage of in stores this June. focusing on,” a customers’ growing attention to the price-quality ratio. A cylindrical Among fashion- spokeswoman Prices in the U.S. market range from $150 to handbag with driven bags for fall said. Wholesale $550. Furlanetto said the accessories market at this bamboo detailing showcased on the revenue for the point is “rather stagnant” given the state of world will be returning runway recently in brand and the affairs, but her company has seen some bright to Gucci next Paris were struc- younger line D&G points, with sales in Asia and Italy, season. tured bags combining for the 12 months the brand’s biggest market, rising tweed and vinyl mono- ended March 31, 2002 about 20 percent since the begin- gram, and round shapes in totaled $589 million, with ning of the year. In 2001, Furla red patent leather. footwear and leather acces- posted sales of $90 million. Also, Vuitton is put- sories accounting for 6 percent. “We are looking at the future ting a new emphasis Europe is also home to a host of emerging players with a lot of optimism,” she on accessories in exot- launching their own accessories businesses. These said, adding that Furla plans to ic leather like alligator up-and-comers vary wildly from a luxurious cashmere open a flagship on the corner of and supple goat skin. firm Loro Piana to hip sportswear label DSquared. Madison Avenue and 57th Street Analysts estimate the Storied knitwear group Loro Piana launched its in New York in September. Vuitton business to be first bag collection in spring 2002, selling the bags at Industry powerhouse Prada, which around $2.9 billion, its own network of stores. The line is crafted from derived about 38 percent of its $1.66 bil- with most of it coming luxurious and unusual materials such as Norwegian lion in 2002 revenue from its Prada and from leather goods. leather and a unique cotton and linen blend. Miu Miu branded accessories business- Longchamp, the 55-year- Loro Piana won’t release sales figures, but the com- es, said orders for those items in the old Paris house, has obtained bragging pany is clearly targeting a niche market with a price fall collection are up about 20 percent rights few of its rivals can match. It range of $775 to $2,775. The bags, highly coveted by on the year. Prada is betting that it has sold more than a million of Italian fashion editors, bow at Bergdorf Goodman and can win over the most fickle fashion- its signature nylon Pliage bags, top Neiman Marcus locations with the fall collection. istas with handbags that feature which it introduced a decade DSquared, designed by Canadian brothers Dan interchangeable leather han- ago, last year alone. and Dean Caten, launched its first women’s collection dles. Purchased separately, “We’ve sold more than 4.5 this past season and is now bolstering its nascent ac- the buckled handles can million Pliage bags since it cessories business to diversify its product offering alter the look of the bag was introduced,” said Jean and edgy, casual vibe. Suede totes with riveted han- without breaking the bank. Cassegrain, managing direc- dles are seen as potential top sellers. That said, it doesn’t tor of the family-owned and “Given the track record of our men’s collection, ac- come cheap — one high- operated firm which over the cessories will be an important part of our business,” end number in green last three years has doubled said Katie Liu, vice president of sales and merchan- crocodile retails for its sales to some $157 million. dising for Staff International, DSquared’s licensee. $5,765. Armani’s black The bag retails for about $100 in In France, a handful of smaller houses has mim- “If you’re tired of and white satin Europe. The house revamps and icked the success of the big luxury brands by intro- the bag, you can give it a and leather tote. tweaks its looks with new colors ducing their own signature bags. Vanessa Bruno, for new twist just by changing every season. But its quiet, almost time- example, has sold countless thousands of her so- the handle,” said a Prada less design, has become a perennial hit with called sequined shopping bag. The shiny sac retails spokesman, adding that “atten- shoppers from Tokyo to New York. for between $80 and $200 and has limited-edition tion to detail” is a key component Meanwhile, plenty of fashion houses that generate runs. The designer introduced the bag in 1998 when in creating a must-have bag. most of their sales through clothing, such as Giorgio she opened her first shop in Paris. Another market leader, Gucci, is also keeping a Armani, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana, are building “It took a couple of years for it to take off, but it’s keen eye on details. Leather goods are the single their accessories businesses. been a huge success,” said Bruno. “The idea wasn’t to biggest product category at its main Gucci division, Armani said back in 2000 that it was placing a new come up with a classic. I wanted a simple bag, with sales in 2002 at $792.4 million. emphasis on accessories. Moves like beefing up the de- though, that was suited for the way I lived.” Gucci declined to release figures on its order book sign team, buying shoe factories and opening the group’s — With contributions from Robert Murphy and for fall, but a spokesman noted that a bestseller first freestanding Giorgio Armani accessories boutique Miles Socha, Paris, and Courtney Colavita, Milan Tignanello® www.tigbags.com 12 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 comfort SECTION II SECTION ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH IN ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR Esprit dress. kneesocks. and scarf wool headband, Ellen Tracy’s zones often withahomespun,hand-knittedorwhimsical matching slippers.Sockssportplayfulpatterns, three-piece combinationsofaheadband,scarfand winter withcozywarmsocks,slippersandeven Legwear designersaregettingreadyforatough Thinksoft,gentleandcomfortable. NEW YORK — and childlikelook.Layeringisanotherbig trend, withlegwarmersgoingoverkneesocks and patternedhoseonceagain. details. with animal slippers acrylic Legale’s socks. snowman cotton Soxland’s cotton socks. Nine West’s Soxland’s cottonsocks. Nine West’s acrylic knit mary janeslippers. Nine West’s knitmary acrylic and acrylic andspandex legwarmers. and acrylic Nine West’s polyesterandnylonsocks Legale’s cotton, Legale’s nylon military- spandex and motif socks.

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: ALINA AND ANNALYCE, BOTH I.D.; FASHION ASSISTANT: JEANNE CHOW; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT 13 sock it to’em MONDAY,WWD, 2003 31, MARCH

Three-for pricing is dominating the sock market. From left, signs depicting the pricing strategy for socks and knee-highs by Nine West, Legale Legwear and Hue.

By Marc Karimzadeh are very price conscious.” trying to figure how we could get most are three-for-$17.50. volume to justify the space on the Nine West ventured into into the game,” Mott said. “We Sheers are two-for-$12. Summer main floor,” said Lipson at rice, price, price. multiple pricing with trouser started offering the three-for items like foot tubes, toe toppers American Essentials. “That might Home to quick pick- socks six years ago and has strategy, first in socks, then with and liners are three-for-$12. change if the trend to move me-ups that don’t break since expanded the program to tights and trouser socks. We did it But is multiple pricing the legwear upstairs with intimates P the bank, the sock include basic and novelty to drive multiple sale and to final sock solution? continues, though. Once she department has in recent years fashion styles. Customers can boost our basic business.” “As long as the sock depart- makes the trek upstairs, she will become the place to find an typically mix and match across Hue offers basic socks at ment stays on the main floor, it’s a look for specific items and then it overwhelming amount of classifications, including over- three-for-$12, fashion socks and necessary tactic because it drives will be less about a deal and more bargain offers. the-knee socks and legwarmers. knee-highs at three-for-$15 and business and stores need the about the item.” Whether it’s multiple packs, Individually, each pair retails three-for-$12 or three-for-$15 for $6 and a combination of deals, roaming legwear depart- three will carry a $15 price tag. ments these days is like the “The customer was able to pick-and-mix candy counter at purchase a wardrobe assort- the local multiplex movie ment and receive a reward for theater. that. It was key to building rapid “There’s always a deal,” said volume,” said Pat McNellis, Jordan Lipson, president and president of women’s brands of chief executive officer of Royce Hosiery, Nine West’s American Essentials. “The legwear licensee. “As a retailer, consumer loves the idea of you make a trend statement buying three socks for one easily, all in one fixture, in one price, and retailers are looking location, with strong signage. for a return on investment and You don’t have to quote a range to enhance their sales per of price points to the customer. square foot. The higher the out- It’s a clear merchandising the-floor ticket price, the better strategy at retail.” the sale per square foot.” Ken McHale, sales manager The idea is simple: a single and merchandising coordinator pair of socks may retail for $6, at Legale Legwear, said: “It but three purchased together varies from account to account, will cost $15 — a savings of $3 or but some buyers want one entire $1 a pair of socks. Some items — side of fixture at one price point.” slipper socks, luxury fibers, for Legale Legwear ventured instance — are still exempt from into multiple pricing more than the pricing strategy, but most five years ago, but pulled back vendors have embraced multiple after a few seasons — only to pricing. After all, if you can’t return to it this spring. beat them, join them. “We found there was a spike For fall, The Hot Sox Co. will in sales the first season we did it, be launching a new pricing but after a while, we felt it wasn’t strategy by splitting its Hot Sox that significant, so we dropped offering into black and silver it,” McHale said. “Starting this labels. The silver label will be spring, we joined the herd again available at retail at three-for- and are now offering socks at $12 for basics, and three-for-$15 three-for-$15. Our department for novelty socks, from anklets store buyers had asked us to do and knee-highs to tubes and it for consistency on the floor.” footliners. The black label will In an effort to accommodate offer single pairs at $7 to $25, customer demand, many stores and feature handknitted socks allow clients to pick socks across and boot toppers, with embroid- brands. That is a key challenge, ery and appliqué, as well as noted McHale. “It can cause some luxury fibers such as mohair, confusion as to who is getting angora and cashmere. billed for the markdown,” he said. “We decided there was a Molly Mott, vice president of section we weren’t addressing, a sales at Kayser-Roth, the maker layer of department stores that we of Hue, said jumping into were not currently in,” said Gina multiple pricing has helped the Edwards, sales manager at Hot brand rapidly build market Sox. “Many departments are very share. “In 1997, our sock business price driven and their customers was pretty small and we were 14 SECTION II

2003 ACCESSORIES/LEGWEAR IN DEPTH 31, MARCH , sheer makers fight the snags MONDAY

By Melanie Kletter Wolford’s new WWD, ollowing years of steady sales declines, sheer hosiery sheer styles remains one of the fashion industry’s most challeng- include ing categories. What used to be a staple for women, trompe l’oeil whether they were working or not, has become a looks. F beleaguered sector plagued by years of fashion trends that shun sheers. The working woman of the Eighties, with her skirtsuit, sheer hosiery, socks, sneakers and pumps, has been replaced by women in trousers and skirts with bare legs, what- ever the temperature. Sales of hosiery units plunged 33 percent in 2002 over 2001, marking the steepest drop among all legwear categories, according to marketing information from The NPD Group, Port Washington, N.Y. The number of sheer hosiery units sold fell to 398 million, while total hosiery unit sales for women fell 15.4 percent to 1.22 billion. The decline comes as stores throughout the country continue to relocate, and often shrink, their hosiery departments to make space for better-performing categories, often accessories. Among the New York stores that have moved their departments recently are Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s Herald Square and Lord & Taylor. Hosiery Annual Sales Unit Volume (in thousands) Total Men and Women 2001 2002 % Change SHEER HOSIERY 593,063 397,582 -33.0 TIGHTS 23,884 18,358 -23.1 SOCKS 1,898,352 1,830,197-3.6 ALL HOSIERY 2,515,296 2,246,149 -10.7

Hanes is AQUINO Women focusing on JOHN

shaping and Y ALL HOSIERY 1,450,932 1,226,896 -15.4 B novelty

SOCKS 833,994 810,948 -2.8 products in its PHOTO SOURCE: NPD GROUP/NPD FASHIONWORLD CONSUMER sheer offerings.

“I continue to hear from the major department their own name, which usually provides higher mar- stores that their sheer business is extremely soft,” gins. Other important companies include Wolford and said Pat McNellis, president of women’s brands at Fogal of Switzerland, which carry higher price tags Royce Hosiery Mills, which produces Nine West and more specialized products, including sheers. sheer hosiery under license. “The best thing we have Hue, one of the industry’s largest legwear firms, done lately is to make sure our basics are in stock and introduced sheer hosiery about two years ago, and that consumers can find the basics that are a staple in currently it has about 2.8 percent of the market her wardrobe. Right now, the business is about satis- share, according to Jody Eskenazi, director of mar- fying our existing customers. We don’t see a lot of new keting. New styles include shaping products and customers coming into sheers.” detail options with novelty details, as well as a fash- Sheer hosiery also used to be more of a year- ion category that includes more colors and patterns. $)"/(&:063'"$& round business. However, overall weaker demand While the company doesn’t break out sales of Hue, has caused the holiday selling period to take on annual wholesale sales at Kayser-Roth, Hue’s more importance for sheers as women stock up on owner, are estimated at about $300 million. for seasonal parties and events, accord- Hanes, meanwhile, is focusing on more shaping ing to McNellis and other executives. products in its sheer and other offerings heading into Nonetheless, legwear in a variety of forms was fall. The company’s Body Enhancers line was intro- abundant at the recent designer runway shows in New duced last fall and has been a key area of growth, York and Europe, and many firms are hoping that con- according to Howard Upchurch, president of Sara sumers, too, will return to legwear in coming months. Lee Hosiery, which includes Hanes and L’eggs. Mitchell Brown, president of Doris Legwear, The company doesn’t break sales of these said: “We haven’t had this much legwear on the run- brands, but industry sources estimate that L’eggs ways in years. Many of the miniskirts and other generates an annual volume of about $400 million styles from the Sixties are back, and pantyhose are and Hanes about $360 million. safe to wear with a mini.” Sara Lee said in it a recent financial report that Among the most important fashion looks in sheers unit volumes for sheer hosiery fell 12 percent for the now are support products that massage the leg, as six-month period that ended Dec. 28. The company well as smoothing and shaping sheers. Color has attributed the decline to “weak market conditions and been showing up in offerings across the price spec- the discontinuation of low-margin products.” Hanes, trum, and backseams are also an important trend. which has more than 50 percent of the sheer market Another area of growth for sheer makers is share according to market executives, is looking plus-size offerings. Women have long complained beyond sheers with new additions to Body Enhancers, about uncomfortable sizing in hosiery, and makers many of which fall into the realm of innerwear. are addressing their needs with more plus-size Maria Basquil, national sales manager at Wolford, #*(#0-% offerings and nonbinding waistbands. said she was also feeling upbeat about fall despite “We are offering more larger sizes, but it’s at the the recent difficulties in sheers. She said sheers rep- %"3*/(-:%*''&3&/5/(-: %*''& same price and is the same styling,” Brown noted. resent about 49 percent of Wolford’s overall legwear '035)&5*.&48&-*7&*/ “We are more inclusive in our sizes.” sales, and that legwear sales represent about 47 per- According to industry executives and market cent of company sales in the U.S. and Canada. watchers, among the biggest brands in the sheer arena “Sheers have had an increase of 14 percent in units now are Hanes, Donna Karan, Nine West and Calvin sold, and we shipped 9,000 more units in 2002 than in Klein. Brown also said sheer hosiery has seen some 2001,” she said. “Hosiery is an accessory now, and we $)"/(*/(5)&'"$&0'5*.& strength recently in the private label arena, as many think it’s going to be a great fall season based on all 8887*4"(&8"5$)&4$0.t*/'0!7*4"(&8"5$)&4$0. retailers choose to focus on building legwear under the legwear shown at the recent runway shows.”    15 making a good impression MONDAY,WWD, 2003 31, MARCH

By Marc Karimzadeh here’s nothing quite like a great-looking accessories de- partment. Generally located on the main floor, it’s a store’s entry point, which gives customers that all-important first T impression that will last as she wanders through each de- partment. In recent years, several department and specialty stores have tried to bolster their image by giving their accessories depart- ments a consumer-friendly facelift. From Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York to Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s and Lord & Taylor, a slew of stores have reconfigured their main-floor layouts, creating wider aisles and adding clearer display fixtures — all while sharply editing the as- sortment. In the process, many have stepped up the number of handbag and bridge jewelry resources — hot categories in recent years — and singled out real estate to showcase must-have trends each season. Last December, Saks Fifth Avenue unveiled its new accessories concept at the Manhattan flagship’s main floor. The department fea- tures centrally located designer collections from such labels and designers as Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Lambertson Truex, Coach, Isabella Fiore, Miu Miu, and Eric Javits. These are flagged by luxu- ry leather goods in-store shops for Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Burberry, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Dior, Tod’s and Longchamp that line the perimeter of the main floor. Louis Vuitton will be added later this year. The shops were designed in collaboration with the brand’s retail architects, but are operated by Saks, except for Dior, Ferragamo and Vuitton, which are leased. In the new layout, the main floor real es- tate for handbags increased by 57 percent, while the square footage for soft accessories remained about the same. “In terms of trends, accessories are running the highest increases for us right now, and are second, in terms of volume, next to women’s ready- to-wear,” Christina Johnson, SFA’s president and chief executive officer, said during a walk-through of the department last year. Bloomingdale’s, meanwhile, also renovated the main floor of its Lexington Avenue flagship in 2001. Formerly cluttered with multiple

classifications, its main floor now appears orderly, with distinct islands MITRA ROBERT BY PHOTO and fixtures dotted around a circular, frosted-glass structure that store Bloomingdale’s renovated main floor features distinct islands and fixtures.

Saks Fifth Avenue now offers designer store-in-stores as part of its accessories department. PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER DAVID BY PHOTO executives refer to as the “cul-de-sac.” In the process, the company has moved sheers off the main floor and given more real estate to fashion accessories and costume jew- elry, including Carolee. “The accessories category has been explosive within our stores,” Francine Klein, Bloomingdale’s general merchandise manager, said at the time. “New York has been growing at a particularly fast pace and we were not able to maximize opportunities. In order to do so, we felt it was critical to reallocate space appropriately.” In 2001, Barneys New York also joined the list of retailers recon- figuring its accessories department. It moved its cosmetics depart- ment, previously located on the main floor, to the lower level, open- ing about 3,700 square feet of real estate to accessories, with an in- creased assortment of jewelry, handbags and watches, and an in- store boutique devoted to Goyard, the luxury French luggage and leather goods firm. L&T, meanwhile, has been focusing on giving the customer a more focused assortment of fashion lines and all important trend categories, according to Lavelle Olexa, senior vice president of fashion merchandising. “We have eliminated cheaper lines that weighted down the acces- sory department,” she said. “We have also reinforced our new image by revitalizing our accessory presentation to reflect a more modern, upscale, open, shopping environment.” While there was no direct renovation on the main floor, the re- tailer has eliminated sales tables that were clogging the aisles and updated fixturing and visual presentation. “We have made it easier to shop, more user friendly,” said Olexa. “The customer does not need to call an associate to look at the mer- chandise to touch it. Handbags, for example, have been taken out of cases. The visual elements do not overpower the merchandise, rather they complement and enhance it.” CHICAGO • HOUSTON • MIAMI • CORAL GABLES • SAN JOSE OPENING 2003 BEVERLY HILLS WWW.DONALDJPLINER.COM 1.888.307.1630 9 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 Richard Stark — Matthew W. Evans W. Matthew — Quest’s total 2002 food sales In announcing the appoint- Despite weaker sales on “In the U.S., we expect Investors drove up shares of accounted for 60 percent of its revenues, which totaled $1.1 bil- lion last or year, 12 percent of total group sales. The fragrance side of the business generated the remaining 40 percent of Quest’s sales. By comparison, National Starch had $2.9 billion in sales last year, generating 30 percent of ICI’s revenues. ICI’s other subsidiaries include ICI Paints and Uniqema — as well as businesses in India, Pakistan and Argentina, which fall within a subsidiary called Regional & Industrial Group. ment of Knott, ICI ceo Brendan O’Neill said: “Charles helped strengthen has the opera- tional efficiency of National Starch and I am certain that he will help improve the perform- ance of the Quest business.” Quest’s food side, performance on the fragrance side paints a different picture. Damas C. Thoman, Quest’s president of fra- grances for North America, said: “We’ve had tremendous growth in fine fragrance.” Recent fra- grance launches that have in- cluded formulations from Quest include the red hot Glow by J.Lo; a scent from designer Lulu Guinness, and MAC Cosmetics’ MV1, MV2 and MV3 trio. sales will be double-digit gains in units as well as the number of active representatives. sales to be up slightly, due to the temporary disruption to our business caused by se- vere snowstorms and war-re- lated consumer uncertainty in recent weeks,” said chief executive officer Andrea Jung of the quarter in a statement. “U.S. operating profit should be up 5 to 6 percent, and op- erating margin should grow by some 80 basis points, even after a significant increase in strategic investments in the quarter.” the direct merchant of cosmet- ics $1.35, or 2.4 percent, to $56.90 on Friday the New York Stock Exchange. Over the last 52 weeks, the firm’s stock has traded as high as $57.10 and as low as $43.49. had picked clean Colette’s stock of had picked clean Colette’s When Chrome Hearts’ Karl Lagerfeld Avon Avon Products Charles Knott has made appearances on the fifth floor recently. MADNESS: METAL KARL’S got word that goth-flavored silver line — including a hair ring the ornately, and tie ring — the news made him pause, kind of. “I think it’s great when anybody buys a piece of our stuff no matter who they are,” he said Friday from his Hollywood studio, where even the door screw heads are Chrome Hearts’ signature cross and extra special when somebody like him silver motif. “But it’s a great artist himself.” But don’t expect buys. I mean, he’s picked up more than a few Lagerfeld designs for Stark, who’s cool, but his fashion-loving wife, to start broadcasting it. “It’s I’m not going to tell the world.” Last year, Last the year, firm posted Despite the upward shift in As reported, earlier this First-quarter sales for Avon Knott was formerly president At the same time ICI said One of the principal factors Avon Products Raises Products Avon Outlook First-Quarter NEW YORK — Inc. upped Friday its first- quarter profit estimates by a penny, to 41 cents a share, in- cluding a charge of roughly 5 cents for the “repositioning” of its BeComing brand. earnings of 40 cents in the first quarter. outlook for the quarter, Avon maintained its projection for the full year of $2.55. year Avon said it would pull the fledgling retail brand, which never really found its legs, from about 90 J.C. Penney Co. doors. This spring, Avon beauty advisers will begin sell- ing BeComing fragrance, color and skin care products. are slated to increase 6 to 7 percent, or 11 to 12 percent in local currencies. Driving these Casey ICI Names Knott Quest CEO, Quest Knott Names ICI Estimate Quarterly Lowers NEW — YORK been named chairman and chief executive officer of fragrance supplier Quest International, succeeding Paul Drechsler, who resigned Tuesday after five years at the post. and chief operating officer of National Starch, a subsidiary of London-based Imperial Chemical Industries Group, which is also Quest’s parent. Plans call for Knott to relocate to Quest’s head- quarters in Netherlands, from Naarden, the Bridge- The water, N.J., headquarters of National Starch. Drechsler was leaving the com- pany, the group also announced expectations of lower profits for the first ICI quarter. stated it ex- pected first-quarter “profit be- fore taxation, exceptionals and goodwill amortization to be around $78.7 million in compari- son with last year’s $103.9 mil- lion.” Dollar figures have been converted from the British pound at current exchange rates. impacting first-quarter perform- ance was weakness in sales on the food European business, ICI side stated. of This was primarily due Quest’s to “pro- duction problems at its Naarden facility as a result of systems changes,” the company said. , who both Rebecca Taylor and was spotted lunching with has been getting the has been getting the ’s new spring collection for Kulson ’s attention of larger firms. attention of larger firms. Rapidly growing Quiksilver Rapidly growing Quiksilver a Kulson — Nola Sarkisian-Miller Nola — Bobby Short The changes will result in 700 ping into the niche beauty mar- ket pioneered in the U.K. by Space.NK and subsequently de- veloped by such department stores as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, House of and Fraser Harrods. But neither concept was developed fully enough. Boots originally proclaimed Pure Beauty as a cutting-edge chain that would compete directly with Space.NK; instead it focused on major brands like Clinique and Bobbi Brown rather Clarins, than the niche products the more-fashionable consumers de- manded. Meanwhile, the U.K. treatment market underwent a boom, but women preferred to get their treatments from day spas or salons rather than an off- shoot of the mass-market Boots the Chemists. job losses charges and of $86 million, of which exceptional $47 million relates to asset write- offs, though it’s anticipated the ac- tions will improve trading profit by around $34 million in 2003/2004 and each year thereafter. Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Von and others on Friday at La Grenouille, but was SHORT RHYTHM: has been flying off the shelves so quickly at Bergdorf Goodman that the former designer for Theory flew in from Florence over the weekend to make her first retail appearance at the department “Saturdays on 5ive” series. She joins the ranks of store’s designers Ribicoff somewhat singing the blues. Short walked in on a chic cane suffering from neuropathy in his foot. One because he’s drawback has been that Short hasn’t been able to walk his new a real bore,” he moaned of the dog, a black poodle. “It’s affliction. “Especially for someone with my natural rhythm.” MEET AND GREET: Lis Chief financial officer Steve Brink expects the with worldwide control of our brand, distribu- tion and image,” McKnight said. “The tone of our business is excellent and that’s patently gratifying as a number of our competitors are struggling.” Asia-Pacific region to represent 9 percent of busi- ness in 2003, a new sales source replacing royalty income from the region. The company is also dumping “It was a sure indication things A spokesman at Boots said al- The Wellbeing and Pure the Chemists chain, which is suf- fering from growing competition from supermarkets. “They’re the real threat to Boots and they’re not going to be going anywhere soon,” said an analyst, who spoke on condition of anonymity. Pure The Beauty. six existing stores will either close or be converted into branches of Boots the Chemists, not to the surprise of analysts after the company halted rollout plans for a further 65 stores in November last year. were perhaps not going as well as they had hoped,” suggested anoth- er analyst. “After news like that consumers begin to lose faith.” though customers were happy with the service, they weren’t re- turning in sufficient numbers. and Pure Beauty didn’t “Wellbeing live up to our expectations,” said the spokesman. the “Ultimately, concepts weren’t making enough money to make them viable.” Beauty stores were aimed at tap- Neither an acquir- , who shuttered his ready-to- Eric Bergere Boots PLC has

McGrath and Russell origi- The decision is the latest in a The group plans to close its 12 “We’re “We’re able to move forward with one voice Since beginning the new Quiksilver’syear, On Friday, shareholders On approved Friday, a 2-for-1 At the same seeking time, to Quiksilver buy isn’t “I believe we’re on the radar screen,” McKnight The business of surf, skate, snowboard and That was among the messages delivered by Bob Fashion Scoops Fashion COMEBACK KID: wear business last year, is hopping back into the fashion wear business last year, saddle. Aigle, an outdoorsy French brand popular with hunters, sailors and weekend warriors with milder pursuits, tapped Bergere to design a capsule collection of more urban And styles for fall to help celebrate its 150th birthday. signature brand will also be reborn in September Bergere’s in Japan. The designer just signed an agreement to design shirts exclusively for the hip chain and men’s women’s United Arrows. nally thought the con- Wellbeing cept would be the key to topline sales growth at the core Boots series of back-to-basic strate- gies by Boots, under the leader- ship of chairman John McGrath and Steve Russell, the outgoing chief executive, who, after a four-month search, still hasn’t been replaced. Wellbeing centers in areas includ- Wellbeing ing Manchester, Oxford, Reading and London, and will ditch the remainder of its Pure Beauty stores. The closures represent a significant retreat for Boots, which had proclaimed the two concepts as a major move into beauty and treatment services. By Sarah Harris Sarah By LONDON — abandoned its move into Botox injections, massages, makeovers and manicures in a rethink of a strategy that now will see the U.K. retailer focus more on its core Boots the Chemists chain. seen first-quarter earnings more than double, up 112.8 percent to $6.6 million, while sales rose 30.7 percent to $192.1 million. Additionally, the firm has dipped its toe in more deeply to the Pacific, western partnering with Hong Kong-based Glorious Sun Enterprises to open five to 10 stores in the area by early 2004 and also focus its Asian sourcing activities. Units Core to Focus Refining Boots stock split, effective May 8 for holders of record April 30, while shares closed up 49 cents, or percent, 1.6 at $31.39 in New Stock York Exchange trading. more companies after coming off its buying binge in 2002 that included the purchase of Beach Street Inc., operator of 26 Quiksilver outlet stores, and its Asia-Pacific license in 2002. Those developments and the rapid growth of its Roxy brand helped the company, in the year ended Oct. 31, expand sales 13.7 percent to $705.5 million, with European rev- enues growing 26.3 percent to $282.7 million. Net income outpaced topline growth, expanding 34.3 percent to $37.6 million. Its stock in the past year has appreciated 42 percent while the Standard & Poor’s gone down 24 percent. 500 has said in response to a question from the audience. I’ve had conversations with other ceo’s, but noth- ing’s gotten serious.” other youth lifestyle apparel has been strong enough that the firm has been approached by oth- ers as an acquisition target, but the company has- n’t yet heard the offer that would pull it off its firm. course to become a $1 billion McKnight, Quiksilver chairman and chief executive chairman and chief McKnight, Quiksilver here Friday. at the firm’s annual meeting officer, er or an acquiree be. er or an acquiree

HUNTINGTON BEACH, HUNTINGTON Calif. — Quiksilver: On Track for $1B for Track On Quiksilver: 10

ANAT GIVON/AP WIDEWORLD PHOTOS WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 not coverthetrip. would insurers their that found most Fair,but Culture Fashion International Shanghai the tend at- to expected were collections those of each of designers The Ferragamo, LanvinandGivenchy. Westwood,Salvatore Vivienne Tam, Vivienne as brands tional interna- such featuring shows ion fash- high-profile cancel to had it when blow a dealt was Shanghai well. as region the in events other of out pulled have tives out givingnotice. with- fair the to trips their celed can- exhibitors Nine organizers. to according percent, 40 to 30 by down was attendance overseas where Asia, Interstoff week’s last at evident most was tries indus- apparel and textile the traveled fromtheFar East. recently had affected people the of city.However,all the in cases Yorkfive are now there revealed New in authorities health when Friday increased only U.S. the in virus the over nervousness The spread. to continues illness the if increase only will ruption dis- The disrupted. been have plans travel some admitted they far, thus business-as-usual is it insisted and outbreak the down Fridayplayed contacted tives through Saturday. countries 13 from reported been had deaths 54 and cases 1,550 of total cumulative a site, least 34deaths. at and cases 800 reported have officials disease, the of stances in- any admit to reluctant nally origi- was which China, Kong.In Hong in 10 killed and 319 fected in- has Syndrome, Respiratory one page from Continued SARS Outbreak Thwarts Travel Chinese citizenstake precautionsagainstSARS. found that Unifi “has not com- not “has Unifi that found has N.C., Charlotte, of Mulliss Helms, firm law arbiter, the Unifi, N.C.-based Greensboro, ufacturing alliance.” “man- filament polyester a over DuPont and it between pute dis- the hearing panel tration arbi- the from order initial an received had it Fridaythat late — YORK NEW Arbiter Dismisses $17.6M of DuPont Claim v. Unifi Representatives from U.S. from Representatives execu- industry and Designers on illness the of impact The execu- American most While WebWHO the to According According to a statement from statement a to According Unifi Inc. said Inc. Unifi gion’s major importance to the to importance major gion’s re- the given outbreak, the toring moni- closely are they that week last late said U.S. the in tives eliminate purchases. not but delay, will shoppers hard die- city’s the that hopes the in forecasts their revise to yet have sector retail the observing Those million. $250 about lose could try predicting are Economists percent. 10 than more fallen had land by arriving tourists of number the while break, out- the since percent 30 fallen had Kong Hong into flying tourists of number the that here lators legis- told Cheng Eva Tourism, for commissioner Kong’s Hong sories. acces- must-have become have masks surgical and norm the come be- have cancellations last-minute soirees, glittery and parties ciety backed outofthetournament. that ones overseas three for teams replacement with albeit — forward go to slated was fans, 40,000 draws that events ing sport- annual an Sevens, Rugby The fans. his to letter open an in reschedule to promised who Williams, Andy crooner did as Kong, Hong in concerts planned two canceled Stones Rolling the last week. Crawford Lane store specialty at honor his in party a attend did designers, footwear star Pedder’s On of another Weitzman, Stuart But store. Pedder On high-end territory’s the at appear to slated was he where Kong, Hong to trip a canceled conflicts, scheduling citing Louboutin, Christian signer de- shoe Similarly, ahead. go still will Kong, Hong in Place Pacific in Seibu at event, The week. this Asia in counter first its of opening the attend to not decided Badescu Mario brand care skin gemn, h ptcl provision put-call the agreement, to Unifi. Wilmington,N.C., and Kinston in plants filament polyester its sell to use DuPontcould which firms, two the between agreement put-call the of execution the up step to able be not DuPontwould the allianceagreements.” of breach’ ‘substantial a mitted Apparel and textile execu- textile and Apparel high-so- to accustomed city a In events, cultural of terms In codn t te original the to According finding, that of result a As that the tourism indus- tourism the that It’s highly communicable and the and communicable highly It’s moment. this at go shouldn’t you think I then go, to mandatory not it’s If communicable. highly it’s because office the down shutting they’re that, it’s that suspected it’s and office an in sick is someone if “That said. Holtzman on,” letting they’re than serious more it’s that Kong Hong in office our from ing hear- I’m but business, our fecting course ofactionwiththeillness. best the probably was prudence that agreed China, in factories Benard,whichworksin16 Harvé of ceo and president Holtzman, Bernard outbreak. the of cause be- Kong Hong to travel stricting re- is it but East, Far the in ities capabil- delivery and production company’s the impacting isn’t illness the said Gold, Ballinger limiting travelasappropriate.” and closely it monitoring are We us. to concern serious of is China in developed has that issue SARS “The said: Group Apparel Jones of officer executive chief and Kong towearmasksintheoffice.” Hong in staff our requested have we area, the in companies other most Like occurrence. bizarre this of result the as strategy sourcing of deviation no been has “There Windham. John sourcing strategic of president vice Co.’s Kellwood said situation,” this tor moni- to continue we while April in Asia to trips their limiting ous aboutbringingoutsidersin.” nerv- were They office. the into people outside of lot a bring to in oneplace,andtheydidn’t want meet to together comes everyone Kong, Hong “In said. he ments,” appoint- to out goes everyone where U.S., the like not is there about aweek,Nolanestimated. by production its delay will which collection, Klein Anne AK better-priced the of production the for used mostly are which samples, fabric and broidery em- send to office Kong Hong its of staff production the asked ny compa- The concerned. equally were Asia in colleagues their because also but contagion, own their of concerns over week this planned was that Kong Hong to trip a canceled members staff several and he said Nolan caused bytheU.S.warinIraq. disruption with coping ready al- industry an to blow another yet be could it months, several for lasts and spread to continues outbreak the if However, utives. exec- industry Farfor the East to month travel heavy a not is April because partially illness, the from industry U.S. the on impact immediate no been has There center.production a as sector enough partially oriented yarn oriented partially enough buying wasn’t it that namely deal, the of terms the to up living wasn’t Unifi that claiming arbiter, an to matter the brought lier, iftheagreement isbroken. ear- or 2005 1, June effect takes — buy to chose Unifi if sell to gated obli- be would DuPont and sell to chose DuPont if buy to obligated be would Unifi which under — “For the moment, it’s not af- not it’s moment, the “For of president Burns, Thomas president Boneparth, Peter are executives sourcing “Our work offices their way “The Charles designer Klein Anne uot n eray 2002 February in DuPont Shanghai atthemoment. to employees his send even n’t outbreak. the would- However,he said Gutman of locus the be to appears that Zhou Guang of province southern the from far and country the of northeast the in is which Shanghai, on focused typically are operations sake ofbusiness.” the for risks health necessary un- to people expose to reason at myself go or people my send not tainly cer- would “I said, Gutman Jim president China, from tensively ex- imports which man-Gutman, before ourtravelstartsupagain.” away weeks three “We’reabout traveling. of lot a doing been have wouldn’t official sourcing Penney’s when time a at came outbreak the of news the that said internationally.Birkins travel to employees its allowing sume re- to about was Penney’s that Thursday late added but Iraq,” in war the of because globally on travel of suspension a put ly actual- “we that far.said However,he thus Asia in operations company’s the impacted hasn’t illness the said Inc., Co. Penney J.C. Texas-based Plano, at ing ture formany, manyyears.” infrastruc- and people assets, of terms in market, Chinese the for China in We’veinvested parel. ap- for especially focus, strategic a is us for “China since cern con- particular a was outbreak job donewithlocalstaffers. the get to way a is there if see to and conditions safety about ees” employ- local our with consult to them asking are “we critical, be to trip a considers ployee tobeflexible.” trying We’relatest. the check to and there folks our with connect to them asking are we region, the to travels anyone “Before DTI. at Apparel Global of president Ghitis, Bill said this,” watching closely Weare concerned. are we so and Kong Hong and China Kong andChinabeforetraveling. Hong in employees DuPont with consult to staffers urging are tives execu- though region, the to travel ban to made been has decision no Interiors, & Textiles DuPont to doourjobswithoutgoing.” us enable will technology the go, can’t we if so stops, nothing “But said. he usual,” as business it’s So factories. our in sick is nobody us; affected not has “It date. the to closer situation the monitor will he but months, two to one in is Asia to go to has company his death rateisquitelarge.” appropriate award.” an with result will process the satisfied is DuPont…DuPont to awarded compensation damages final the define help will that submissions additional quested re- has panel arbitration “The lion ofDuPont’s damageclaim. mil- $17.6 dismissed arbiter the said it although damages, final on rule not did order initial million indamages. $85 sought company Del.-based Wilmington, The DuPont. from Pressman-Gutman’s Chinese Pressman-Gutman’s Press- Yorkconverter New At sourc- of director Birkins, Rod the that acknowledged Ghitis em- an if even that added He in people many “Wehave Del.-based Wilmington, At time next the said Holtzman A DuPont spokesman said: spokesman DuPont A the said statement Unifi The this point...There’s no point...There’s this about anything.” worry to not saying they’re says she and Shanghai in wife my call I but Kong, Hong in schools closing they’re York,know I New in “Here said. he China,” in information of control the progress whilehe’sontheroad. its track to him for easier it making disease, the of spread the on citizens their with information little very sharing are thorities au- Chinese the that concerned spread theoutbreakbecomes. of schooluntiltheyseehowwide- out children their pull to agreed had wife his and he that said he and Shanghai, in lives family YorkHis Thursday.New in ling travel- was who LLC, Associates of & Williams G.E. Williams, Shanghai-based E. George ant cern forthosewholivethere. con- larger much a it’s China, to trips canceling considering businessmen American many he hasevercanceledatrip. time first the was it said Ascher factories, foreign with tionships rela- build and inspiration sign de- gather to countries foreign it fromahealthpointofview.” about bothered terribly but view, of point business a from it about bothered terribly not I’m ness. busi- our in on going what’s with tune in keep to like I now,but portant im- an not is China it. about body any- didn’ttell they but November since on going been “It’s Ascher. said they knewaboutthedisease,” what disclosing not for Chinese partners andattendtradeshows. potential visit to China to going he was hesaid— ed bythevirus, unaffect- area an Korea— South in mills with works primarily he Though leave. to supposed was he before day the month this earlier China to trip his converter,print canceled he said York-basedNew a Inc., Studios it hasn’t beenanissue.” Fortunately, fine. he’s guess I and Zhou, Guang in wasn’t He parent. ap- became this before ago, month a about there was He back. got just people my of “One added, he yet, trips any cancel to had hasn’t ny the outbreakbegan. where region the to authorities health world of access the ited lim- reportedly also has ernment gov- Chinese The Organization. WorldHealth the to currence oc- its acknowledged government Chinese the before months three about China in began portedly re- outbreak the Indeed, said. he problems,” medical about you giving are Chinese the tion informa- much how about cerned ate themanufacturing alliance.” oper- to continue will “we means Fridaysaid Unifi, ruling of the cer offi- financial chief and president of April. end the by completed be to due has confirmedthosenegotiations. Koch nor DuPont Neither unit. TextilesDuPontInterior its & sell to Industries Koch with tiations nego- reported DuPont’s in hitch minor a been has agreement — Constance Haisma-Kwok, “The unfortunate part of it is it of part unfortunate “The particularly was he said He consult- admitted scary,” “It’s leave may outbreak the While visiting in believer firm A the at angry rather “I’m Ascher of Ascher Peter compa- his said Gutman While con- be to has always “One Willis C. Moore, executive vice executive Moore, C. Willis is arbitration the said Unifi dis- the WWD told Sources Larson, Larson, Scott Malone and Hong Kong, and Kristin part of our business right business our of part Eric Wilson, New York — Scott Malone 11 Fashion’s Future: A Bumpy Ride MONDAY,WWD, 2003 31, MARCH NEW YORK— If there’s a future less expensive to show in mon message was that a design- of fashion, it’ll come with a London, where designers are er’s ultimate success relies on catch-22. also often financially supported what Singer described as making A panel organized by the by local retailers, it’s harder to “a commitment to an aesthetic.” Council of Fashion Designers of gain international press expo- “Be very conscious of your America and Gen Art last week sure for designers there. strengths and your abilities,” she found itself opening a can of “There’s a different sense of said. “If you decide to focus on worms when it comes to the topic both ambition and challenges tailoring, work with good tailors. of “The Future of Fashion,” here in America,” Pearce added. I see so many collections where specifically addressing the chal- “It’s a bit more difficult to jump a designer tries to do evening lenges facing young designers in and say, ‘I want to be the next pieces, sportswear and swim- today. In a frank discussion of Donna, Calvin or Ralph.’ That suits, and if one piece isn’t quite the industry’s fate, two design- size of ambition can be limiting right, that’s when you begin to ers, a magazine editor, a retailer because it’s so daunting that it see the weaknesses.” and a lawyer found that virtually almost washes out any possibility Also of import, they seemed to every reassuring pro facing de- of growing organically.” agree, was not to get caught up in signers just starting out comes Their advice for designers in- the celebrity game, as tempting Jack McCollough, Narciso Rodriguez and Lazaro Hernandez. with an equally challenging con. cluded very specific tips: Don’t as is the publicity that often Stores are counting on talent- get caught up in the theatrics of comes from such associations. her needs when she walks in the ting savvy to it. They still care ed new designers to reinvigo- the runway, keep the customer in “It’s the original gossip story store, she’s over it,” Gilhart said. what Nicole Kidman is wearing, rate the fashion business, but mind, try to be organized, work that drives a customer to find “The customer is seeing that but they’re less affected by it.” they’re also being more careful hard and focus. But their com- out more, but if it doesn’t meet this is a game and they’re get- — Eric Wilson in their buys. New designers stand a better shot of getting magazine coverage if they catch onto the right trends of a season, but stores don’t like so many trends. A breakthrough collec- tion will create a media frenzy for a designer, but what happens after the novelty of a new-de- signer profile wears off? The answers weren’t so easy to come by, but the point of the discussion was to at least put the subject on the table as part of the organizations’ efforts to foster a support structure with- in the American fashion indus- try, or at least some place to talk about such things as charge- The Apparel & Accessories backs, the pressures of conglom- erates, and the double-edged Trade Show That Delivers swords of runway shows and the fashion press. “There are so many issues The fastest growing show for the hottest today, with the economy and segments of the fashion marketplace. now the war, that starting a new business at this time is a very Bringing manufacturers and retailers scary thing,” said Narciso together in the heart and soul of the fashion Rodriguez, who was joined on the panel by Rebecca Taylor; industry – New York City. Sally Singer, fashion news and features director for Vogue; The latest trends… broad international Julie Gilhart, vice president and exposure… free leading edge seminars… fashion director of Barneys New York, and Elizabeth Q. Pearce, extensive press coverage…unparalleled an attorney who specializes in amenities… exceptional customer service. the fashion trade. The panel was moderated by Bridget Foley, executive editor of WWD and W. “There are so many things Featuring: going on in the world today, whether you’ve been in business ACCESSORIES for six months, a year or 10 years, that make it very difficult to sur- CASUAL LIFESTYLE/BETTER vive every season,” Rodriguez said. “Maybe when you’re Calvin JUNIOR Klein or Ralph Lauren, and you’ve been in business for 30 STREETWEAR years and you’ve had that level of YOUNG CONTEMPORARY/CONTEMPORARY success, then you feel some level of security. My company is enjoy- ing a very healthy growth and there are positive sales, but it can change at any moment.” May 4-6, 2003 Taylor described a bumpy Jacob Javits Convention Center road starting out and some valu- able lessons learned, such as New York City after her first season, when she sold 26 Saks Fifth Avenue doors off the bat, but sales were slim To exhibit call 888.964.5100 because her label was virtually or 917.326.6237 unknown to the consumer. “That could have put us out of business, then and there,” she said. “Now we don’t sell more To attend, register online at than six doors at one depart- www.industry212.com or call ment store to keep that percent- age down.” 877.554.4834 or 218.723.9792 Rodriguez considered him- self to have had an easier road through his partnership with Aeffe, which manufactures his collection in Milan, but he chal- lenged the notion that it’s easier Formerly to start a designer business in Europe than it is in America. Singer, too, said that while it’s 12 Financial Weekly Stock Index Merrill Lynch Sees Jones-Polo Divorce, 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers Downgrades Shares of Both Companies 5.28 3.37 Bon-Ton Stores 6.5 457 4.13 -0.07 31.20 12.32 Dillard Dept. 8.1 33724 13.00 -1.05 By Arnold J. Karr to earnings by fiscal 2005, an in- clines at Tommy, so we would not 44.10 23.51 Federated 8.9 81015 28.52 -1.25 tegration of Lauren into Polo expect a buyer to pay much of a 3.71 1.15 Gottschalk’s - 315 1.15 -0.15 NEW YORK— Merrill Lynch would also bring “substantial ex- premium to comparable compa- 25.70 14.07 J.C. Penney 16.2 79030 19.87 -1.48

WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 WWD, MONDAY, thinks the end of the Lauren and ecution risk,” the report pointed ny multiples, which are now Ralph licenses at Jones Apparel out, estimating that Polo current- about nine to 10 times.” 37.08 17.81 May Dept. Stores 11.6 58850 20.01 -1.50 Group is at hand, and it doesn’t ly receives between $36 million Although such an acquisition 15.75 6.66 Saks 15.7 16874 7.73 -0.38 believe the split will be good for and $38 million in royalty rev- would lift 2004 EPS to the $3.30 59.90 18.25 Sears 4.8 608911 23.75 1.47 either the licensor or licensee. enue and “just over $20 million” range, without allowing for cost- 46.00 24.90 Target 16.2 196400 29.56 -1.17 In a research note issued in operating profit from Jones reduction synergies, “the chal- 4.62 1.48 Value City - 950 1.61 -0.11 Friday, Merrill lowered its ratings for Lauren. The ML figures as- lenge with buying Tommy is that 62.17 43.72 Wal-Mart 29.6 355036 53.13 -1.54 for both Jones Apparel Group and sume a royalty of between 6.5 we think it is tough to grow EPS Polo Ralph Lauren to “neutral” and 7 percent. from there.” from “buy,” saying that Jones “Ralph’s wholesale business Also working against a Jones Softline Retailers would take a “two-year EPS hit” is currently running 10 percent to purchase of Hilfiger is the name- 33.19 17.05 Ann Taylor 11.3 47638 20.23 0.20 if the Lauren license were to be 11 percent operating margins, sake designer’s lifetime employ- 1.95 0.55 Bluefly - 1252 0.85 -0.05 lost and that Polo already “has its suggesting taking back the li- ment contract, which guarantees 23.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 10.4 2535 16.27 -0.63 hands full with the integration of cense would be accretive at $200 him an annual cash bonus equal 9.14 2.70 Charming Shoppes 8.6 22604 3.55 0.19 its European operations, the roll- million in volume, versus current to 1.5 percent of U.S. revenues. out of Blue Label, consolidation levels of $550 million,” ML stated. “Shareholders of an acquiring 23.73 13.02 Chico’s FAS 25.0 59728 20.11 0.19 of the Japan business and the ex- Of the three firms discussed, company may resist the assump- 17.50 11.06 Dress Barn 13.4 1423 13.65 -0.63 pansion of its retail store base.” all of which are traded on the tion of such terms,” the report 17.00 8.20 Foot Locker 9.7 28741 10.58 -0.19 “We now believe that Jones New York Stock Exchange, only said. “Alternatively, the depar- 17.14 8.35 Gap 27.0 212914 14.63 -0.30 ture of Mr. Hilfiger could have 78.83 44.00 Kohl’s 29.8 164331 56.60 -2.60 negative implications for the We now believe that Jones will lose brand’s designs.” 22.34 10.88 Limited Brands 13.4 88564 12.87 -0.69 “ ML doesn’t believe that the 39.80 23.75 Neiman Marcus Group 10.8 4404 29.20 -0.20 the Lauren license. Ralph’s wholesale Polo Jeans business in the U.S., a 26.87 15.06 Nordstrom 26.1 26381 17.32 -1.14 $400 million enterprise for Jones, 21.12 10.81 Pacific Sunwear 20.0 31478 20.25 -0.65 business is currently running 10 percent is at risk. However, the loss of the 47.77 31.85 Ross Stores 14.6 48836 36.46 -2.64 Lauren line would basically 8.09 5.40 Syms - 528 8.00 0.23 to 11 percent operating margins. leave Jones’ earnings per share — Merrill” Lynch “flattish” at about $3 “or slightly 39.64 20.59 Talbots 12.6 11953 25.62 -1.98 north” through the calendar year 22.45 15.30 TJX 16.6 120985 17.88 -0.85 will lose the Lauren license,” Polo escaped a price reduction, 2005. ML believes that termina- analysts Virginia Genereux and rising 10 cents, or 0.5 percent, to tion of the license would take ef- Vendors Gina Gordon wrote. close at $22.35 a share on Friday. fect after the spring 2004 season. 57.91 41.55 Alberto Culver 19.7 11868 49.28 -0.62 The opinion followed not only Jones shares were down 81 cents, The ML report doesn’t envi- 57.10 43.49 Avon 24.6 77078 56.90 0.58 various news accounts about or 2.9 percent, to $27.18; while sion Jones taking this loss with- friction between Jones and Polo Tommy Hilfiger’s eased off 15 out a fight, calling the firm’s man- 23.40 13.65 Cherokee 9.6 347 14.80 -0.50 and a possible Jones acquisition cents, or 2.1 percent, to $7.15 agement “a group of excellent op- 39.99 17.19 Coach 30.3 62376 38.30 -1.63 of Tommy Hilfiger Corp., but after Thursday’s 23.9 percent erators” who “will certainly move 47.80 27.46 Columbia Sportswear 14.6 14553 36.99 -1.73 also an appearance by Roger run-up on news of Jones’ interest to replace the Lauren business.” 38.80 25.20 Estee Lauder 39.0 41586 31.00 0.10 Farah, Polo Ralph Lauren presi- in acquiring the firm. In one scenario considered in 24.61 14.99 Fossil 14.1 8206 17.75 -0.70 dent and chief operating officer, The report said the firm the report, Jones secures the 8.49 4.49 G-III 101.9 348 6.21 0.75 at an ML Retailing Leaders “would be surprised” by a Jones Calvin Klein women’s wear li- Conference the week before last. acquisition of Hilfiger based on cense from Phillips-Van Heusen, 99.45 82.53 Gucci 34.4 9391 95.59 0.02 Although mum on negotia- the maturity of the business, now builds it to $75 million to $90 mil- 8.25 3.30 Guess - 310 3.65 -0.10 tions between Polo and Jones re- “on its fourth year of revenue de- lion in 2004 and then to $200 mil- 41.68 25.61 Jones Apparel 11.4 61436 27.18 -2.81 garding the Lauren name, the an- clines and with operating mar- lion in 2005. Assuming the rest of 32.50 19.70 Kellwood 73.7 9467 28.73 -1.00 alysts said Polo “sees much more gins arguably at their peak.” Jones’ business grows between 5 30.50 16.00 Kenneth Cole 17.3 5719 22.40 -1.15 strategic rationale for operating “Jones needs topline growth and 6 percent, EPS would rise to that business vertically than in to grow earnings,” the report $3.05 to $3.10 in 2004, meaning ac- 33.25 23.55 Liz Claiborne 14.2 30405 31.11 -0.46 our prior discussions with them.” said. “We should note that this is cretion from CK of 5 to 10 cents a 13.25 4.40 Mossimo 5.4 687 4.80 -0.02 Although viewed as accretive also the fourth year of EPS de- share, and to $3.15 to $3.20 in 2004. 25.20 14.60 Movado 11.3 896 18.90 0.06 16.22 8.06 Nautica 13.8 5259 9.73 -0.27 30.25 19.50 Oxford 17.3 216 24.50 -0.15 16.46 10.80 Phillips-Van Heusen 11.4 2478 12.32 -0.18 30.82 16.49 Polo Ralph Lauren 14.0 31922 22.35 0.90 Elder-Beerman’s 4th-Qtr. Hiccup 32.34 17.26 Quiksilver 18.0 15926 31.39 -0.86 6.50 1.85 Revlon - 743 2.80 -0.18 NEW YORK — The Elder-Beer- mary focus for Elder-Beerman cents, a year ago. 19.55 13.14 Russell Corp. 12.0 5757 17.43 -0.35 man Stores Corp.’s fourth-quar- was to improve the organiza- However, excluding the bene- 6.50 3.33 Tarrant Apparel - 270 3.65 -0.20 ter profits withered under the tion’s productivity and financial fits charge, as well as a noncash 16.65 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 9.4 74333 7.15 1.20 dual pressures of soft sales and strength,” said chief executive of- aftertax charge of $15.1 million, higher expenses. ficer Bud Bergren in a state- or $1.32, for a change in account- 29.55 4.14 Tropical Sportswear - 2169 4.79 -0.26 For the three months ended ment. “Today, we are in strong fi- ing principle and other special 45.64 31.50 VF Corp. 11.4 22461 37.56 -1.78 Feb. 1, the Dayton, Ohio-based nancial condition. The improve- items amounting to $4.4 million, 14.10 8.80 Warnaco - 4137 10.08 -0.56 operator of 68 department ment in operating results, ex- net income would have been stores in eight states said net in- pense and working capital man- $945,000, or 8 cents. Textiles come declined 14.5 percent to agement, most notably inventory Net revenues for the year de- 4.45 1.21 Cone Mills 7.0 1666 1.93 -0.08 $8.3 million, or 72 cents a dilut- control, and disciplined capital clined fractionally, or 0.4 per- ed share, versus prior-year spending provided free cash flow cent, to $670.6 million from 6.15 1.55 Delta Woodside 107.3 343 3.22 -0.59 earnings of $9.7 million, or 84 to reduce long-term debt by $33.4 $673.5 million, and same-store 0.22 0.03 Galey & Lord - 131 0.04 0.00 cents. The most recent results million during 2002.” sales dipped 2.4 percent. 8.00 2.50 Guilford Mills - 0 4.00 0.25 included a pre-tax charge of $3.6 Bergren added that yearend — Dan Burrows 11.66 4.36 Unifi - 2860 4.37 -0.87 million from losses incurred revolver borrowings were re- from the termination of a com- duced to $6 million from $36 pany-defined benefits program. million at the end of the last fis- Biggest Percentage Changes WWDStock Market Index for Week Ending March 28 Net revenues for the period cal year. For Week Ending March 28 fell 2.3 percent to $222.4 million Better inventory management Gainers Close Change Composite: 101.77 Broadline Stores: 103.08 Softline Stores: 95.85 from $227.8 million, as compara- was evidenced by an 8.6 percent Tommy Hilfiger 7.15 20.17 ble-store sales fell 2.6 percent. decline in yearend inventory lev- Galey & Lord 0.04 14.29 While merchandise, occupancy els, compared with the prior G-III 6.21 13.74 and buying costs retracted 100 year; a retail inventory turnover Guilford Mills 4.00 6.67 basis points to 70.2 percent of improvement of 15 percent to 2.2 Sears 23.75 6.60 -2.99 -3.08 -3.80 sales from 71.2 percent a year ago, times in 2002, and an 11 percent Losers Close Change Vendors: 102.33 Textiles: 85.41 those efficiencies were more than gain in inventory freshness. Unifi 4.37 -16.60 offset by a 220 basis point expan- Overall, for the full fiscal Delta Woodside 3.22 -15.49 Index base of 100 is sion of selling, general and admin- year, Elder-Beerman reported a Gottschalk’s 1.15 -11.54 keyed to closing prices istrative expenses to 23.7 percent wider net loss of $14.2 million, or Jones Apparel 27.18 -9.37 of Dec. 31, 2002. -1.34 -14.68 from 21.5 percent last year. $1.33 a diluted share, compared Dillard Dept. 13.00 -7.47 “Throughout 2002, my pri- with its net loss of $920,000, or 8 WWD The College Issue Courses, Culture and Fashion on Campus

Section II: May 1 Close: April 14

College campuses have long been the root of cultural and social trends– including fashion. For the first time, WWD is dispatching editors to colleges and universities nationwide to observe, photograph and interview students, faculty and administrators to identify what fuels the fashion–savvy student.

A valuable resource for any retailer or manufacturer targeting this important market.

Bonus Distribution at select college campuses across the country.

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Candidate through strongfollow and analytical experience, excellent sales as footwear skills. of well years 3+ as have must and Individual computer stronganalytical, allocation as planningand well years communication skills. 3-5 as have experience must Candidate addt uthv +yaso handbagbuying of years 2+ Some required. experience travel. have development Product experience. must Candidate in based followingpositions the accessories, leadingdesigner for and White Plains,NewYork: a footwear seekingcandidates Inc., apparel, Group, branded is Apparel of marketer Jones and of division A Design Assistant Designer -Jr.Knits Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Senior Designer Fax resumeto212-725-2703 opportunities! Sendresume,salaryrequirementsand Nine WestFootwearCorporation y The followingopportunityisbasedinNewYorkCity: , etc.Call973-564-9236Agc We offercompetitivesalaries,benefitsandgrowth [email protected] orfaxto914-640-2417. DESIGNER Visit www.jny.comandwww.ninewest.com Director ofProductDevelopment y Call(212)221-0870 646-827-9043 Corporate TechnicalDirector Assistant BusinessManager for otheropportunities. Allocations Manager indicate jobcodeto: Account Executive No callsplease. Handbag Buyer (Job Code:ABM) (Job Code:DPD) (Job Code:CTD) (Job Code:AM) (Job Code:HB) (Job Code:AE) EOE M/F/D/V y y y . A s k eiey nweg fA 0 required. 400 AS of LC experienceamust. Knowledge delivery. ra pt.t onsafo hs"hot" this of staff join to oppty. Great oioigoesa hpet and ensure to shipments documents and processing overseas scheduling monitoring include individua Responsibilities seeks company w apparel Major - MarketingandPRManager - Accounts/BookkeepingAssociate - AdministrativeAssistant - RetailStoreManager - Dir.ofSales&BusinessDevelopment years craft 3 hand least at in experience andbeverytalented. have Must creative be be techniques. pro- and computer Must grams, applicable essential. with is skilled print design and arts and graphic fine of color Knowledge textile, development. in and of, experience knowledge thorough have Must DESIGN product in com- Exp knowledge puterized. Call973-564-9236JaralAgc spec men’s. pkg’s., samples, boys/yg. exp. in current $50-60K Asst. yg DESIGNER in exp Current mens orboysdenimtwillbottoms. $60K to DESIGNER A w A (fax) 212-725-7116(Tel)212-481-1941 E-mail [email protected] graphics, their & backpacks Create r ie e:asf ad strong hand, soft a Req: line. Jr. EDI OrderEntryto$35KCurrentexp. CREATIVE TEXTILEDESIGNER Rozae Nichols Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Jennifer *JustMgmt.*800-544-5878 dobe Illustrator,licensingexp,etc. div. backpack/tote Co’s. ccessory t iiu er experience. years 3 minimum ith r /iesdcaatr trendy & characters w/licensed ork IMPORT MANAGER in Wal-martretaillinkformid-town infant/toddler. Careeroppt’y.MAC Please faxresumeto212-719-2942 sportswear co.Assistsalespeople. NY DesignerJewelryFirmseeks: Designer to$60KCurrentexp.in Designers/Graphics/Backpacks E-mail: Garment Industryfirmseeks Fax resumeto212-239-2766. E-mail: fiona@ 1-3 yrs.exp.PR/Packaging full timesize10FitModel. Fax: Kids andJuniors/to80k+ proficient. 110W34thst. [email protected] FIT MODEL GURHAN Fax: (646)230-1122 Marketing to$50K [email protected] 213-489-1615 g urhan.com ONLY is seeking timely y y y l esl-tre raie x’.with Patterns byhand.PleaseFax resumeto: exp’d. - organized w - Must self-starter maker. be pattern production manufacture seeks based Brooklyn Growing Other [email protected] * * * * * * * seeks exp. company ladies/missys with Must havemassmerchantsexp. apparel individual Major and 3-5 salary Minimum Good benefits package. trends. experience. seeks years forecast company identify to and able wear be Must Merchandiser. infant Major (Fax)212-725-7116 (Tel)212.481.1941 coy utwr eludrpressure. under Only experiencedpersonsneedapply. well work with Must construction. work fctory. and of produc- samplemakers knowledge Oversee to with 1st Inter- tion sketches eveningwear. designer in exp’d pret be Must * A Y * *Dsgnr-Jr. Sportswearexp...... $Open rnyJno rvltts Strong totes. for travel experience Junior handbag trendy w/ Designer at thismaj.AccessCo.Sal.d.o.e. rection etc.willlandyouthistopspot spot trends,knowlofdesign,givedi- designer whocanputtogetheraline, E-mail resume:[email protected] APPAREL STAFFING,LTD. PATTERNMAKER PATTERNMAKER MERCHANDISER/SALES Key AcctExec-CWrmfr"Walmart"exp Acct Exec-BrdgeRltdSeps-SpecStore..$Ope Spec Tech-CWr-AllSzRanges Prod Mgr-C&SKnit,Walmartexp Patternmkr-Long IslandLoc-Knits Merch Planner-Mjrmfr-ImmedHire Grphc Dsgnr-AccessLicChctrs....To$60 Grphc Dsgnr-Jr.Stnry&RmDecor Dsgnr-Infant &Toddlerexp pa w/ strongretailexperience.Excellent Please faxresumeto:(212)302-1272 our expasasavvyhandbagmerch/ dobe Illustratorskills. mns&cide’ nt wovens. & knits children’s & omen’s and PDMexperienceaplus. MS Word, Proficiency required. Illustrator with team attitude. required. player and an possess entrepreneurial must is years field Candidate 2 related of experience minimum a a plus in degree location. for Miami hats, etc.) its sunglasses, goods, towels, leather (handbags, small designer acces- sories experienced company an seeks apparel leadinginternational branded A Openings inApparelThru rns aaycommensurate with experience. Salary multiple brands. of charge specifications. take and qualities leadership possess creative, must maker to Candidate render to be model able and Must organized exp junior markets. and related trend years of jewelry knowledge 5 and of costume Min. firm. designer established in NY available Position SENIOR DESIGNER Designer -Accessories Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 Alan Wolf-Since1971 y Fax resumeto:206-201-8051 Please e-mailresumesto: MERCHANDISER COUTURE EVENINGHOUSE or faxresumeto(212)302-1161 . Pls.faxresumeto 3000 N.W.107Avenue fax to:(305)593-1722 Upscale fashionablewomen’s Attn. HumanResources Perry EllisInternational International NANTUCKET Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Dept. EOE/DrugFree sportswearretailerseeks: [email protected] TRAVEL TOTES/to85k Merchandiser/Designer HANDBAGS/to 125k+ - STOREMANAGERS Miami, FL33172, Perry Ellis xe,Photoshop, Excel, 509-693-5837 - ASSISTANTS Workplace. or mailto: (941) 383-5865 college A ...... To $90K ....To $50K ...... To $100 ..

To $60K CAD To $85K . . .$Open ..$55K K K n r WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2003 - 15 : y .** y y .com y ahoo.com y a European mfr Send resume & salary req Send resume & salary Fax: (732) 873-5100 SALES REPS [email protected] or work week, no benfits required. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** [email protected] Target. New York based not nec. Target. New York CHILDRENSWEAR SALES PRO childrenswearmaven@ Seeking showroom position. 3 day ide Sales Rep. Please E-mail resume Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC well-established manufacturer of **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc / specialty & dept. store contacts for all Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc Call 973-564-9236 Jaral sportswear or dresses to JCPenney or sportswear or dresses Independent Reps Int’l. Sportswear Apparel Co Sales $ Open. Current exp. selling girls Current exp. selling Sales $ Open. to: ladies, men’s and children’s umbrellas is looking for an exp’d manufacture representatives. For more information, please contact Ron Rankin at: EMBROIDERY: design, sample,professional, couture, talented beading, schiffli, prod’n machinePATTERNMAKER: exp embroiderypattern to prod’n, sketch. 718-769-6428. 10 design. years, 1st T-shirts importer/mfr seeks expchain stores. pro for Sales toexp. $150K in +++.JR. JR. Current skirts tops. $9-20 strong Fashion Agc Call 973-564-9236 Jaral wholesale. $7-15 1407 wholesale. Bway. Or A INTIMATE APPAREL Anita International, of lingerie &w swimwear seeks sales agents Facilities in Turkey,Jordan Hong Kong, & Israel, Sriw Lanka. Seeking nation- TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? U.S. territories. Fax resume: 954-730-8723 323-846-5109 or hrd@unihosier Showroom. SALES 212-967-2025 [email protected] Fax: (212) 563-5201 or Ms. C @ (212) 739-9739 Fax resume 212-947-7954 Sales /Brand Mgr. $125+ Fax resume 212-967-8631 Att: MN Must have kids experience. Email: [email protected] Sales Manager SALES EXECUTIVE SALES MANAGER Roxy/Quiksilver Sales Executive needs experienced detail oriented Please e-mail resume to: SALES ASSISTANT Better tween showroom with 7 lines [email protected] Roxy JuniorFootwear Accessoryseekinga and Sales Professional for DivisionCandidate Eastminimum must is of Coasthandlingdepartment 3-5 have stores years Majors. & exp. a large specialtybe chains, and availableNew York to work out of Please send resume in confidence to: salesperson. Very upbeat atmosphere. Judy * Just Mgmt.* 800-544-5878Agcy. TO SALES MANAGER swimwear business. Salesexperience a must. Fax resume to: and product Fast paced lifestyle brand based in NYC is seeking Sales Manager, with experience in fashion, accessories or home. Strong specialty, catalogue and department store background and at least 4 years of experience is required. Ideal candidate is proficient in retail math, highly organized, self-motivated, detailed and aggressive. Working well with others is a MUST. You will be given the opportunity to grow within our organization and become an important part of our sales force. Travel necessary. Salary/ commissions commensurate with experience and abilities. Company benefits, fax your confidential resume: Growing NYCo. seeks Tee-Shirt/trendy Sales& Exec Spec Cami for Store sales.road Hi-end Indiv Dept. force will & alsoexp hire run req’d. trade Commresume to: [email protected] shows. 2-5 & yrs override.Sales Email $sportswear Open. selling toor Current Wal-Mart or exp.stores. West 33rd. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Federated Target in or boys Mayco. or Mid-tier Aggressive, devoted andGreat experienced. childrenswear importer. future with growing Major Private Labelseeks Childrenswear Salesperson Co. development, w/ to exp.existing in handle Target product high andMust have volume JCP full understanding of accountances compli- and lists. approvalorganized processes. w/ Must be excellentskills. Great Oppty. communications N.Y.C. based Children’s Apparelimmediate Co. opening has forExecutive "Hands-On" Sales to lead growing branded girls’ f . y with major dept. [email protected] g @ 212-869-3639. y experience Box#C 5000 SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Jerr New York, NY 10001 Sales Assistant Fax resume: 212-967-4389 c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Flr. K.A. KITTIES SALES ASSISTANT or E-mail: desi Please fax resume in confidence to ssistant with strong communication Wanted: Luxury Handbag Mfr. Pls. send resume to fax: (646) 336-7215 Must have stores (Saks, Neiman’s,benefits. Submit resume & salary to: etc.). Excellent High EndA Jeanswear Co seeks Sales retail math and computer skills. Immediate entry-level positionble availa- to worklarge with account dress executivedetail for oriented, manufacturer. ability toand learn Must quickly, haveExcellent computer skills necessary. good be communication skills. Leave your jobhave what now it ifhottest takes you ladies to thinkseeks urban be only you contemporary the adepartment co. best/brightest Kitty! with The and proven This specialty job isseriouslyfabulous should apply! store not exp. for everyone, only the Technical Designer to $60K. Current exp. in full fashion sweaters + cut & Sewn knits. Specing. 1411 Broadway. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc skills, ability to learnindependently. quickly Must and have work some experi- ence with accounts, knowledge o ’ 213-891-2812 f Allen Schwartz [email protected] Attn: 212-689-3890 Men & Women By Allen Schwartz [email protected] g A B S / ALLEN B A B S / Fax resumes to : Or E-mail: , maker of contemporary/designer sportswear, has (212) 302-2117 EXCLUSIVE!! 212-730-2099 LindaHo DESIGNER Passport Juniors seeks accessory Allen B an incredible opportunityDesigner for an to aggressive,three years experience. join self motivated our design L.A. based team. Minimum 450 7th Ave. (AGCY) 268-6123 Fax to LUNAIRE at: ill pay high commission. Fax resume: salary requirements, attn. Navin at: / chain/discount stores and private ith 3 +ell years of versed experience. in Must be flat sketching,/outside sample room. Fax resume to: specs, ith Intimate Apparel experience. Good Intimate Apparel Sales Pro 5+ years experience necessary. New York location. Please fax resume and A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. sales representative for new division. Intimate Apparel Sales Technical Designer (323)265-3286; Email: [email protected] Or E-mail: labeling in NY, Midwest & Northeast. grading, fit sessions &paks, comments, and tech possess the ability to work Bare Elegance seeksin sales intimate reps w/ apparelw exp & has connection W Seeking aw self motivatedcomputer skills and travel involved. salesperson Accessory Sales Rep SLS PRO - GIRLS SPTS HI$ Maj co seeksmid-tier hvy WALMART exp. orBranded line. for other sales and mgmt o and children’s wear. Mustrelations have current andcounters and contacts massresume: [email protected] to merchants. E-mail most dis- Leather & suede sportswear/outerwear importer seeking a Technicalw Designer w w Experienced Salespersonlarge required importer by of promotional infants . g d . . y y . Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agc y Sales Manager Fax resume: 212-629-3004 Fax resume to: 212-594-9633 SAMPLEMAKER Please email resume plus salary Spec Tech Asst. to $40K. Western specing garments,pre-production, with minimum 5 years experience. SALES ASSISTANT Please fax resume to: 212-239-2766 almart account. Must be detail orient- Eveningwear company seeks sewer / Account Executive on maintaining requirements to [email protected] Excel computer. Call 973-564-9236 Agc Suffolk Co. near Nassau Co. LI. Exp. Purchasing Coordinator r. denim bottoms private label for wal- PRODUCTION ASSIST Entry level positionw available toW work Major NYC basedin trade Fashion show andseeks specializin Apparel a Trade Salesmust Shows, Manager. be The energetic, candidate excellent motivated, interpersonal skills, possess in experience dealing withand apparel retailers. manufacturers Thefive ideal years candidate plusSome has travel of required. showand benefits. Base sales plus incentive experience Largeindividual outerwear withfollow-through company 2-4 all yrsMust seeking experience production be to details. detailliterate. oriented Ability and topaced, high-volume import dept req’d. computer work well in a fast- Production Coord to $75K.j Current exp. in Midtowndetailed, Intimateindiv. organized, to Apparel tracedelivery, & hard data follow seeks ment, up entry Far working fabric/trim & Eastself-motivated. email Fax arrange resume comm.requirement to 212-679-1381. ship- and Must salary be ed & haveExcellent computer skills necessary. good communication skills. mart req.1407 Bwa From inception to completion.

f n y . SALES y 212-725-8723 Technical Designer to: 212-684-3295 y Fax resume to: 718-218-9763 Call (212) 221-0870 Call (212) 221-0870 salary history to: 212-947-0277 y y Company has the following positions: [email protected] Fax Resume to: Human Resources Fax: 646-435-7412 [email protected] CAROLE HOCHMAN DESIGNS CAROLE HOCHMAN

For Confidential consideration all interested COLLECTIONS AND CREDIT MANAGER We are an exciting company with excellent benefits. Associate Woven’s Designer Associate Woven’s Patternmaker candidates should fax or email their resume with Streetwear Men’s and Women’s Sportswear and Accessories in speciality and department stores. All territories available. Major Women’s ModerateAssociate Brand Woven Company is Designerperson lookingfor with an 3-4 mustThorough years knowledge experience. possess ofrequired. garment This Strongcomputers a constructionof skills and A/I is strongtechnical specing computercreative, necessary. systems detailed background. apaced Knowledge oriented, plus. environment. and Thecommunication skills. ideal Must thrive candidate beJones in must a an Apparel teampackage and an exciting work environment. EOE upbeat, player Group with fast excellent Inc. offers an excellent benefits Job responsibilities include:Design Workingwith team MerchandiserPrioritizingwork and from to linecostingspecs inception meet for through allpack. all final calendar production. development deadlines. Fittingallrevisions usingExcel Creating to counter basedpatternmakingto factories. spec samples effectivelyinternal Possessinga staff communicate and and strongknowledgeof factories.and corrections Flat pattern communicating sketchingdetails to of corrections and TOP Samples. specs. Approving all pre-production garments for spec packs. Developinggraded Candidate mustWord have a excellentskills, MUST), computer be strongpatternmakingand detail skillsoffer oriented, communication and competitive (Excel an salarywork in a great team environment. and effective and time benefits manager. and We the opportunity to Seeking ambitious, fashion forward sales rep with experience omens apparel. Will interface with olume-based Women’s apparel firm Production Assistant Production Assistant Pls fax resume w/ salar Create & maintain value statements Les Richards Agc Les Richards Agc Communicate w/ plant personnel Enter bill materials & cutting tickets Order woven labels & tickets & process for offshore production µ the related invoices µ w seeks diverse individual within 5 yrs exp Patternmaking for all types o oriented, possessesskills good and communicatio office is environment. able Mustliterate to perform the following tasks: be to computer workµ in aµ bus Movie StarProduction Inc., seeks Assistant an entry that level is detail Calypso, a retail/whsleindiv. operation seeks with min.tion. 2 Duties yrslab incl.: exp fabric, dips, infollow-up. trim, Knowl. samples produc- of labels, garmenttion tracking. construc- is a Delivery +.cellent Must communicator, be detail computerate oriented, & liter- ex- able topotential! work at fast pace. Growth V PRE-Production Mgr-4+POs to yrs getting 1stOrient/accessories mfr/mge 3. $70-80K samples writing made in the Production Administrator to $70K. Current exp. in coord. of production, lab dips, LC’s, etc. As well as admin. asst. duties to Pres. of co. Liason w/ top exec’s. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agc Design, Prod &communicating overseas factories correctionssessions. in Exp in from wovenments, sportswear gar- fit leathers,knits. Only Team player need apply. suedes & sweater PLANNER/Forecasting - 2+planning yrs for doing goodsMart or Penneys/heavy Excel. $40-50K sold to Sears/Wal- Shouldn’t your tags and labels move No matter how quickly styles change, Checkpoint is nimble and responsive enough at the to meet your needs. We print more than 10 billion tags and labels SPEED annually for more than half of the world’s top apparel makers and retailers. of Check-Net,® our global network of 29 service bureaus, is online 24/7 so you’ll have what you fashion? need when and where you need it. And if you think the fashion business is fast now, just wait. Checkpoint also provides integrated RF and RFID expertise. So we can brand, track and secure merchandise today—and help you get ready for the future.

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