Check in the Season, See Pages 6 To8

Page 1Monday

PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS LAS VEGAS — VEGAS LAS By SophiaChabbott starting inmid-April. pleased, if a bit surprised, at the uptick in sales fall. Retailersandcompanyexecutiveswere beating since the stock market tanked last categories,takena have, likeotherluxury a turn for the better for jewelry sales that these rocky times. Mother’s Day marked occasion purchasing to keep them afloat in and the like. heart: birthdays, anniversaries, graduations sake. In is a new era of purchasing from the diamond and gemstone jewelry for fashion’s consumer looking to drape herself in gold, sector.fine jewelry Rather Than Indulgence Rather Than Buying for Celebration NewMind-set: Jewelry’s Jewelry brands are banking on special brandsarebankingonspecial Jewelry Out is the indulging self-purchasing Check In the season, see pages 6 to8. of a picnic in the country. For more on fastened by snaps, with the freshness Here, her little checked minidress, silhouettes with a distinctive appeal. and volume for resort, creating Stella McCartney played with shape W Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

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WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY ™ FASHION 6 Stella McCartney mixed the whimsical and the sophis- A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based ticated for resort, while Roberto Cavalli channeled an on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Eighties joie de vivre. GENERAL The paradigms are shifting in the fine jewelry sector, as TO HAVE AND TO HOLD 1 the self-indulging consumer steps aside for a new era of Cotton Weds Eco- and Wallet-Friendly Bridal Wishes buying from the heart. 3 Tommy Hilfiger saw a 19.4 percent rise in group sales to $2.27 billion in the year ended March 31, on gains in Before the tiers of fondant cake are sliced, or “I’m finding that even if it’s not on a bride’s mind Europe and North America. the wedding couple shares the first dance, there is that when she’s looking for her gown, she often just enchanted moment when the bride first appears at responds to the look and feel of cotton,” Pettibone 5 New Pringle ceo Mary-Adair Macaire aims to honor the the end of the aisle. says. “My brides always comment on how soft and brand’s heritage while keeping it relevant and fine-tuning These days, amid environmental and economic comfortable the gown is. Sometimes they don’t even its distribution. concerns, not to mention a growing desire for outdoor realize it is cotton until they try it on. I always say EYE being beautiful is our first priority for a bride, but if weddings, many a bride is making her entrance in a Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy made a visit to she is comfortable too, that is cotton gown. 4 London last week, cohosting a dinner with Kate “One client of mine who a great bonus.” Kate Bosworth Bosworth at Harvey Nichols’ restaurant. in Rodarte. lives here in Florida was going “I’m finding that even if it’s not A light, breezy gown made home to Puerto Rico to be from the sustainable fiber WWD Trends is included as a Section II in this issue. on a bride’s mind when she’s looking married on the beach, and is a natural for an outdoor Classified Advertisements...... 15 for her gown, she often just responds even though she’s financially wedding, especially in the TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS comfortable, she wanted a to the look and feel of cotton.” summer when breathability is [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. swiss dotted gown,” says Judy – Claire Pettibone, designer key. Thread’s current collection WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 includes three different FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Ferrara, owner of The Dressing VOLUME 197, NO. 118. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Room in St. Petersburg, FL. varieties for bridal: seersucker, one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division “For the bride who chooses swiss dot and sateen, with a of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services cotton over another fabric, it’s a lifestyle preference.” new cotton group being added in October. provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage Most weddings are held in what can be the very Another trend in weddings this year: keeping paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. warm month of June, so cotton’s cooling comfort costs down. The Wedding Report, a research firm, Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES makes it an attractive option for brides looking to estimates the industry will reach $57 billion this TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS year, a drop from $60 billion in 2008. The firm also CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA beat the heat. According to the Cotton Incorporated 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a full 76% of women will expects the average wedding dress in the U.S. to drop on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. not sacrifice their comfort for fashion, an axiom that to $841 this year, versus $916 in 2008. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online could very well carry over to bridal attire. Among “For the past ten or so years, weddings have been at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services 25-to-34 year olds, 70% eschew discomfort, and the about excess and over-the-top luxury,” Pettibone says. that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please figure jumps to 81% among those 35-to-55. “The mood now seems to have become quieter, with advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, Chris Kole, designer of The Cotton Bride couture more concerns about over-spending and waste.” UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR collection, says silk is so commonplace in bridal Over half of her collection is cotton. “It’s a ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY that his cloth of choice has become that of non- more affordable option than other natural fibers,” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE conformists, too. Pettibone adds. “Most of our cotton gowns are ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. “Our brides tend to be free-spirited, down-to- $1,600 to $2,100, on up to $3,900 for some of our earth, young-at-heart, and very comfortable in their most popular styles. Gowns using silk and other own skin,” Kole says. “A bride who chooses cotton fabrics range from $3,200 to $10,000.” DAILY Man, you guys like to does so against a considerable amount of established While these price tags are comparable to designer “ norm and tradition. Brides who are able to rise above gowns, more moderately priced styles are available QUOTE get up early. I hear they’re these preconceived notions discover that cotton, at places like J. Crew, which carries about a half- still sleeping over at Target. which comes in an infinite number of varieties, is dozen models. perfectly suited for bridal gowns as it is light, airy Saving money is on almost every bride’s mind — Ben Stiller on the 7 a.m. start of the Wal-Mart annual meeting. Page” 3. and extremely these days. Though comfortable,” Kole How Well Do The Following Attributes just 25% females COMING THIS WEEK r e p o r t t o t h e adds. Describe Apparel Made From Cotton? MONDAY: Quiksilver Inc. reports first-quarter sales and earnings. Kole says that Monitor that they second-quarter sales and Female 13-24 25-34 35-54 since he introduced are very/somewhat earnings. THURSDAY: The Commerce The Cotton Bride Comfortable 86% 82% 85% 88% pessimistic about Department releases the May in 2007, interest in t h e i r p e r s o n a l TUESDAY: Barcelona Bridal Week retail sales report. gowns made of the Soft 82% 77% 82% 84% financial situation, (through Sunday). tLululemon Athletica Inc. fabric has only grown Natural 82% 73% 83% 84% 67% say increased tMovado Group Inc., Oxford reports first-quarter sales and stronger. expenditures have Industries Inc. and The Talbots earnings. Good Quality 82% 76% 82% 83% “Environmental kept them from Inc. report first-quarter sales and earnings. FRIDAY: Designers & Agents, Los Good Value 77% 70% 79% 79% c o n c e r n s a r e purchasing other Angeles (through Sunday). items. Moreover, increasingly playing Env. Friendly 75% 72% 75% 76% WEDNESDAY: The U.S. Commerce tAtlanta Apparel Market a greater role in 52% think it will be Department releases the April (through June 15). the choices we all a year or more before foreign trade report. tBrighte Cos., Los Angeles make as consumers, and eco-conscious brides are the current economy improves. tThe Federal Reserve Board (through June 15). particularly sensitive about making decisions that Kole may outsource some production overseas in releases the Beige Book tLos Angeles Fall II-Holiday are consistent with who they are as individuals,” an effort to lower costs on his couture gowns, which economic report. Fashion Market (through Kole says. approximate designer pricing. tMen’s Wearhouse Inc. reports June 16). Thread designers Beth Blake and Melissa Akey He notes: “Rarely does price drive initial interest find that to be the case as well. in a gown, but it almost always plays a major role in TODAY ON s WWD Trend Report: “More and more brides planning an eco-friendly whether a bride ends up choosing to buy the gown – Sport-inspired accessories especially nowadays.” or low-key wedding are opting for the subtlety and .COM s More images from resort: laidback feel of a cotton wedding dress,” says Blake. WWD “It just feels more natural and less contrived.” Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli, More than 6 of 10 women (63%) say cotton and This story is one in a series of articles based on find- 3.1 Phillip Lim, Doo.Ri, Helmut Lang, cotton blends are the fibers best suited for today’s ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ Rena Lange, Kate Spade and Dusan fashions, according to Monitor data. Further, 86% say tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these s Additional photos from the JCK clothes made from cotton are comfortable, and 82% pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it show and from Eye events: the Coach say cotton apparel is soft, natural and good quality. relates to the American consumer and her attitudes luncheon, Dior Beauty luncheon, and behavior regarding clothing, Claire Pettibone, the Los Angeles-based couture Ferragamo’s New York and Los Angeles bridal designer, says cotton’s inherently soft hand is a appearance, fashion, fiber selection and parties and Rodarte’s London event natural draw for brides. many other timely, relevant subjects. s WWD Eye Blog: The premiere of new

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTO Y-3 buddy ﬁlm “The Hangover” WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 3 WWD.COM Wal-Mart Cheers Itself on at Annual Meeting By Sharon Edelson Mattison noted Wal-Mart carries another Azria brand, Maxrave, and said, “We’re very familiar with the [BCBG Max Azria] portfolio.” FAYETTEVILLE, Ark. — Few, if any companies, could put on such a big and bold extrava- “The overarching strategy is leveraging connections in the entertainment ganza, especially in these times. The Wal-Mart annual shareholders’ meeting at the [world],” she said. Asked if Wal-Mart is embarking on this strategy mainly for ju- University of Arkansas’ Bud Walton Arena on Friday was equal parts self-congratula- niors, Mattison said, “We sell a lot of media and music [influenced apparel] to a tion, motivation and entertainment. whole range of customers.” “Annual,” as the initiated call it, is a tradition. What’s more, Wal-Mart has much Other performers at the annual meeting included Kris Allen, the winner of the to crow about: global sales in fiscal 2009 most recent “American Idol”; Smokey Robinson, and Latin pop star of $401 billion and, on Thursday, the Miley Cyrus Paula Rubino, whose performance preceded Doug McMillon, president retailer said it will create 22,000 jobs, and ceo of Wal-Mart International. mainly in its U.S. stores. McMillon gave shout-outs to blocs of associates from Chile, Brazil, “We have a story to tell, and we think China and Japan who were flown to Arkansas. The international divi- it’s a good one,” said a Wal-Mart spokes- sion opened 500 stores last year and added a new business, D&S, with man, adding that, “Annual gives the 209 units in Chile. company the opportunity to tell it. All six of the shareholder proposals were defeated at the meeting, Ben Stiller, who was the meeting’s where the themes of diversity and inclusion were raised by several master of ceremonies, poked fun at the speakers. “We’ve developed a new diversity strategy to put more women deeply ingrained Wal-Mart culture. and people of color in leadership “Man, you guys like to get up early,” Mike Duke positions,” said Castro-Wright. “We he said, referring to the event’s 7 a.m. want to lay out clear career paths start time. “I hear they’re still sleeping for our associates.” over at Target.” At a question-and-answer ses- Mike Duke, president and chief ex- sion with the media immediately ecutive officer of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., following the meeting, Duke pre- presided over his first annual meeting; dicted the customers Wal-Mart Duke succeeded Lee Scott, who retired won over during the economic in February. “Last fiscal year, earnings downturn will stay. “We clearly were up 6 percent to $3.35 per share,” benefitted over the last six months he said. “We returned $7.3 billion to our from customers getting extra cash shareholders. We closed the year with from lower prices. They’re buying about $11.6 billion in free cash flow.” discretionary purchases. We have Vice chairman Eduardo Castro- been gaining traffic. Out of that Wright noted that every month for five growth, 17 percent can be identi- consecutive quarters, the company has fied as new customers. They’ll stay reported better comparative growth with us because they realize they than the market (although Wal-Mart can save money with us. When recently decided to no longer report they have more disposable income, monthly comp-store sales, May being they’ll spend more with us.” the first month it did not do so). “I be- Sustainability, a pet issue of lieve we’ve achieved the best inventory Scott’s, “is personal for me, as it was for Lee,” Duke said. “I believe we flows, and our profits grew faster than can and must have an economy that is greener. We’re going to focus and sales last year,” he said. lead on sustainability.” After explaining that “Wal-Mart is As for Project Impact, the store redesign initiative has led to 75 to 130 not all about financial performance,” basis points of comp-store growth. “We expect to see better performance Castro-Wright showed the company’s fun side by introducing “the newest member from those stores,” Castro-Wright said. of the Wal-Mart family” — the more musical half of the Miley Cyrus and Max Azria Some of the changes will come to the apparel pad. “We see opportunity for contin- junior label that was unveiled on Wednesday. Wearing black cropped spandex leg- ued improvement,” Mattison said. gings, a Union Jack T-shirt and black blazer with rhinestone collar, Cyrus, her long But Metro 7, once hyped as a major move into more fashionable collections by brown hair worn straight, looked more innocent than her alter ego, the glitzy Hannah the discounter, is no longer a fixture in the stores. “We don’t carry that,” she said Montana, as she sang her hit, “The Climb.” simply. “We’re always looking for opportunities to increase space and productivity” Later, in an interview after the annual meeting, Dottie Mattison, senior vice presi- of successful brands. Op has a large display, this being the height of the swim season, dent of women’s apparel, jewelry, shoes and accessories as well as product develop- and Wal-Mart has added exclusive collections from the likes of Norma Kamali and ment, explained the Cyrus and Azria project “is a multicategory concept. The apparel L.E.I. Although the George offering in a store here seemed limited, Mattison insisted, part will be a casual junior line inspired by Miley’s rock ’n’ roll Tennessee roots.” “We’re still happy with George.” Hilfiger Sees Sales, Profits Rise Di Risio to Depart Versace, By Samantha Conti business comes from Macy’s, while the balance is gen- erated at the brand’s own retail stores. “Although we Ferraris Could Be Successor LONDON — Tommy Hilfiger is withstanding retail’s would have liked those numbers to be better, there is rocky waters. still double-digit growth at Macy’s, and we are beat- By Andrew Roberts Today, the brand will report a 21 percent rise in ing the competition,” he said. group sales to 1.6 billion euros, or $2.27 billion, from In Europe, sales rose 14 percent to 795 million MILAN — Gianni Versace SpA is to part company with chief 1.34 billion euros, or $1.9 billion in the year ended euros, or $1.13 billion, from 707 million euros, or $1 executive officer Giancarlo Di Risio by mutual consent — March 31, thanks to double-digit growth in Europe billion. The company said the inclusion of European and it’s understood the front-runner to succeed him is Jil and North America and the integration of Hilfiger’s footwear sales, as well as growth in all regions and Sander AG ceo Gian Giacomo Ferraris. Japanese operations. The figures do not adjust for product groups, contributed to the sales rise. Following a board meeting Friday, Versace said in a currency fluctuations or discontinued operations. In Europe, some 75 percent of Hilfiger’s business statement, “The company thanked Mr. Di Risio for the Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and is wholesale, and Gehring said the brand has about work he has done during his tenure as ceo and Mr. Di amortization were roughly flat year-over-year, rising to 5,000 customers in the region. “As a result, we’re more Risio expressed his gratitude to the board of direc- 270 million euros, or $383.4 million, from 268 million vulnerable in that market, but so far we are getting tors, to the shareholders and to all the employees of the euros, or $380.6 million. All figures have been calculat- stronger and gaining market share,” he said, adding Versace group for their support and collaboration over ed at average exchange rates for the 12-month period. that Europe currently generates about 50 percent of the last five years.” His departure confirms a May 21 re- “This is the toughest time we have ever faced, and turnover, followed by the U.S. with 35 percent and the port in WWD. we’re very happy with our progress. We were much rest of the world with 15 percent. Di Risio, who joined the Italian fashion house in 2004, less hurt than other brands,” chief executive officer Gehring said the company’s planned initial pub- will stay on temporarily “to guarantee a smooth transi- Fred Gehring told WWD. lic offering remains on ice. “We are not even think- tional period,” Versace added. Although Hilfiger did not break out aftertax profits, ing about it right now. We’re focused on making this Ferraris could not be reached for comment Friday, but Gehring said growth was positive. He said best-selling a leaner, meaner company and a better business,” sources said he is in talks with Versace about the ceo post. categories worldwide were men’s wear and denim. he said. He is said to have been unhappy at Jil Sander since Onward During the year, the company added 100 freestanding After a few delays, the company plans to open its Holdings Co. Ltd. bought the fashion house last September. stores, taking the global portfolio to more than 900, first global flagship, a 20,000-square-foot unit on Fifth Versace called in Bain & Co. after losing confidence in half of which are directly owned and operated. Avenue in New York, at the end of August, he added. Di Risio and approved a new three-year plan by the con- With regard to the current year, Gehring said it got Next spring, he said, Tommy Hilfiger plans “to put sultancy at the end of May. off to a “challenging” start, although trading began some muscle” behind its newly reacquired acces- Revenues fell 13.4 percent in the first quarter, although to pick up in April, and the European market saw a sories businesses at Macy’s, and in September the business improved in April and May. Last year, net prof- strong recovery around Easter. He said the big chal- brand will relaunch its e-commerce business “with its at Versace fell 30.7 percent to 9 million euros, or $13.2 lenge going forward will be “getting the consumer to high expectations,” he said. million, on revenues that rose 8.3 percent to 336.3 million return to a full-price mentality.” Gehring added he’s far from a “pie-in-the-sky op- euros, or $494.3 million. Dollar figures were converted at North American sales rose 10 percent to 636 mil- timist,” but he’s looking forward to the current fiscal average exchange for the periods to which they refer. The lion euros, or $903.1 million, from 590 million euros, year. “The comps are going to get easier, and we’ll see company has not disclosed its net indebtedness, although or $837.8 million. The company did not break out some leveling out in the fall. Inventories will have been Di Risio told WWD in February it was less than 20 percent separate figures for the U.S. readjusted. We’ll all be getting back to normal — to a of turnover. Gehring said about one-third of the company’s U.S. new normal,” he said. 4 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 WWD.COM

Lake Bell in Debi Mazar in Ferragamo. Ferragamo with Adrien Grenier.

Rosanna Arquette in Ferragamo with her daughter, Zoe Sidel. Global Studies Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy made a flash visit to London last week, cohosting a dinner with Kate Bosworth at Harvey Nichols’ Fifth Floor restaurant Wednesday night with guests including Daphne Guinness, Bella Freud and Emma Watson. “To sit and chat to Kate and Laura, to say they’re my peers, is amazing,” said Bosworth, who described her peach silk and net Rodarte frock as “kind of deconstructed ballerina.” s s Kate Bosworth As guests sipped pink Champagne and vodka-and-cucum- in Rodarte. ber cocktails, Trish Goff confessed that while she loved the “soft but tough” quality of Rodarte’s wares, she’d opted to sport a Balenciaga dress. “I always feel a little bit funny wearing [a Emma Watson designer’s] clothes to their dinners,” she said. in Rodarte. l l l Celebrities were the plus-ones for a change at Dior Beauty’s luncheon for makeup artists on Wednesday in Santa Monica, Calif. Each artist was asked to bring a client as his or her “date” to the event, which benefited Operation Smile. For every couple that attended, the organization donated one re- constructive surgery. Among the famous faces in attendance were Rebecca Romijn, Krysten Ritter, Lil’ Kim and Emma Roberts. Most of the stars, it turned out, said logging major hours in the makeup chair had resulted in friendships. “I think we’re going to adopt him,” said Kim Kardashian of Troy Jensen. “We’re even starting to look alike.” Meanwhile, a separate group of starlets hit Coach’s luncheon on the roof of the Chamberlain West Hollywood hotel for its new Poppy collection. Unfortunately, the line didn’t include an um- brella, which, considering the rain, would have come in handy. Kat Dennings opted to cover her bright off-the-shoulder dress with a pashmina. “I was trying to be summery, and I think I’m the im Jenkins

T only summery thing here,” she said. y b l l l arte d o Ferragamo hosted a twofer this week, starting with a party in Los R ; Angeles on Tuesday to benefit victims of the earthquake in L’Aquila, Italy, earlier this year. Co-hostess Debi Mazar invited her Rolodex of famous pals, including co-host and “Entourage” co-star Adrien Grenier and HUMPHREY Rosanna Arquette. “I live in L.A., and I hate earthquakes,” said the ac-

MARK tress, who is an Italian citizen. “When I saw the victims on the news, y b my heart went out to them,” so she formed a charity to benefit those affected and asked Ferragamo to donate handbags, which Mazar oach C then had pals like Madonna autograph. Lil’ Kim in Dior. The next night, Massimo and Chiara Ferragamo held a dinner in their ichner; Fifth Avenue flagship in New York to honor men’s creative director E Massimiliano Giornetti. teve

S Socials including Celerie Kemble, Marina Rust, Gigi Mortimer Kat Dennings in French Connection y b and Chiara Clemente settled into a stretch of the store that had with Melissa George in a Chanel

ork been transformed into a romantic Florentine hideaway and top and Kasil jeans. Y

w pondered the effects of the recession on parties these days. e N One observation: no jewels. “How interesting,” said Lucy Sykes Rellie. “I didn’t think about it, but I only wore rings tonight, and so did everyone else.”

Financial crisis or no, guests including actress Lake s Ikeliene Bell, ballet star Roberto Bolle and perfumer Frederic Malle ella; Ferragamo Stange in d were treated to a lavish spread of Italian delights, be-

ar vintage at S ginning with wines by Castiglion del Bosco, Massimo Harvey Ferragamo’s estate in Tuscany. Nichols. y Donato b

. For additional images and coverage on the latest in nightlife, A . L arts and culture, see WWD.com Ferragamo mage; I ella/Wire d ar S y Donato b

Krysten Tiffani Thiessen in Ritter Chiara ClementeClemente NatashaNatasha BedingfieldBedingfield withand Ferragamo at Ferragamo photos Beauty in H&M. inin Ferragamo.Ferragamo. Kim Kardashian in Vicky Tiel. Beverly Hills. Kate and Laura Mulleavy Dior WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 5 WWD.COM Pringle’s Fresh Approach By Samantha Conti The fall ads were photographed for the first time by Fabien Baron, who has been working on Pringle cam- LONDON — Mary-Adair Macaire is ready to breathe new paigns for years as artistic director. The black-and- life into Pringle. white campaign was shot in a studio under natural The new chief executive officer, who took up her light and features models Karlie Kloss and Mark Cox. post last September after spending her career at “It felt like the time for a new approach, and we Chanel, told WWD her chief aims are to honor Pringle’s wanted to bring in a different mood — one of sensual- heritage while keeping the brand relevant, fine-tune ity and delicacy, with sultry undertones,” said Waight distribution and better communicate with wholesale Keller. The campaign will break in the September is- and retail customers. sues of American and international One of her first moves is to pull editions of Vogue. the brand out of Milan and return Mary-Adair There are other changes to London Fashion Week for its Macaire afoot: Macaire has named Benoit An image from the fall ad campaign. 25th anniversary celebrations in Duverger as Pringle’s director of September. Pringle, which is also global communications. Duverger, Pringle closed its factory in Hawick, Scotland, and returning to mark its own 195th an- who will take up his post June 15, it now relies on external production facilities there. niversary year, will likely remain a will also be responsible for the Earlier this year, a net total of five staff were let go fixture on the LFW calendar in fu- brand’s media buy and report to from the company. ture seasons. Macaire. He is creative director of Pringle’s latest financial filings, for the year end- “It made sense that if we are a brand communications at Puma AG ing March 29, show a decline in sales to 17.7 million British brand and our history is and has worked for companies in- pounds, or $35.4 million, from 19.5 million pounds, or here, then we should be showing in cluding Jil Sander. $39 million. The company posted a loss of 9.5 million London,” said Macaire during an Macaire has also named Andrew pounds, or $19 million — slightly less than the previous interview with Pringle’s creative Wright as director of global sales. year’s loss. All figures have been converted at average director, Claire Waight Keller. Wright was previously vice presi- exchange rates for the period. Pringle joins Burberry and dent of international wholesale at Macaire said she believes the time is right for Matthew Williamson in returning to Bamford & Sons and has held man- Pringle, which embodies “craftsmanship and value for London to mark the big anniversa- For Pringle runway looks, agement posts at Harry’s of London investment,” and added she wants to get that message ry. The brand will show during the and Polo Ralph Lauren footwear of a dynamic heritage brand across to customers. She latter part of the week at a venue to see WWD.com. and women’s accessories. He began plans to revamp the distribution strategy, refurbishing be determined. work last month, and also reports to Pringle’s two London stores over the next few months, Macaire, a Pennsylvania native the chief executive officer. and fine-tune the wholesale strategy. Macaire added new who was formerly Chanel’s global marketing director Pringle has been in need of strong leadership since stand-alone stores are in the pipeline, and that New responsible for ready to wear, costume jewelry and ac- Kim Winser’s departure at the end of 2005. In the five York and Paris are among her top choice locations. cessories, has also been working with Waight Keller to years she was at the brand, Winser transformed Pringle “Pringle is an opportunity waiting to happen. We have reshape the brand’s ads, making the mood more sen- from a British golf and knitwear company to a luxury the smallest distribution in our market, and until now sual and feminine. brand selling at stores including Saks Fifth Avenue. we’ve been very quiet about what we do and about the “It felt like the time for a new approach, and we want- Douglas Fang, a member of the family that owns talent behind us,” she said. “We need to be better part- ed to bring in a different mood — one of sensuality and Pringle, replaced Winser and during his tenure ners and to send a clear and consistent message to our delicacy, with sultry undertones,” said Waight Keller. the company lost some of its momentum. Last year, wholesale clients and customers about who we are.” Ackman Facing FASHION SCOOPS ART IN VENICE: The Fondazione Prada’s my day as a nurse and ended my day seeing exhibitions have become the go-to events at ‘Nurse Jackie’ with Edie Falco. It’s brilliant,” the Venice Art Biennale, and this year is no said Karan, who proudly wore several hats ‘Short-Swing’ Suit different. On Friday, Miuccia Prada and her that day, including her graduation cap. husband, Patrizio Bertelli, welcomed the likes By Matthew Lynch of Marc Jacobs, Diesel chief Renzo Rosso and THINK PINK: The fight against cancer is Russian tycoon Roman Abramovich, who took something Ralph Lauren and his team at Polo A Long Island lawyer with a his- in Pop and Minimal works by American artist are very passionate about, and on Wednesday, tory of suing corporate figures under a fed- John Wesley at the Fondazione Cini on the that sentiment was underscored at a breakfast eral law barring “short-swing profits” has island of San Giorgio. hosted by David Lauren to highlight the brought a complaint against William Ackman Most of the art and fashion crowd then company’s nine-year-old Pink Pony program. for allegedly violating the regulation during moved on to a dinner organized by Lapo Held at the company’s 650 Madison Avenue his proxy fight with Target Corp. Elkann and Arrigo Cipriani to launch their new offices, the press breakfast served to unveil The Securities and Exchange I-Spirit vodka, then to the Vogue L’Uomo new Pink Pony looks for fall, which include Commission rule bars company insid- party at Palazzo Grassi, sponsored by Gucci a quilted down vest with the logo, a nylon ers from profiting from the purchase and Group, where the guest list included Angela running jacket, black sunglasses and water sale of stock within a six-month window. and Margherita Missoni, Beatrice Trussardi, bottles. Lauren recalled how the former Officers, directors and investors with Ennio Capasa, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, Naomi fashion editor of The Washington Post, the late stakes larger than 10 percent qualify as Campbell and Charlotte Casiraghi. Nina Hyde, inspired Lauren’s commitment company insiders under the law, which is to fight the disease, and he spearheaded the meant to prevent short-term gains by those HELPING HAND: Aspiring business owners A skull watch from Bell & Ross’ limited launch of the Council of Fashion Designers privy to company information. got a high-profile boost Thursday as edition BR01 Airborne line. of America’s “Fashion Targets Breast Cancer” Ackman’s Pershing Square Capital designer Tory Burch and Los Angeles Mayor plan to take legal action, but that the initiative. “We didn’t feel that was enough, so Management said it would not comment Antonio Villaraigosa unveiled the Tory Burch house is expected to settle. An Ungaro we started Pink Pony,” Lauren said. on the litigation. The fund first invested in Foundation at Burch’s store on Robertson spokeswoman declined to comment. His remarks were followed by a few words Target in 2007 and hasn’t been on record as Boulevard. The foundation will support small from Dr. Harold Freeman, the president and having a stake greater than the 7.8 percent businesses by making loans to aspiring DONNA KARAN, R.N.: Sandwiched between founder of the Ralph Lauren Center for Cancer holding in the retailer reported to the SEC entrepreneurs who don’t qualify for bank launching her resort collection and appearing Care and Prevention, which is devoted to on May 27. Its attempt to change the com- credit and is being launched in partnership at the LVMH Bike Challenge press conference helping underserved communities in Harlem. position of Target’s board and seat a slate with Accion, the largest micro lender in the Tuesday, Donna Karan found time to add “Poverty should not cause you to die,” of directors was unsuccessful. United States. Burch gave an unspecified sum another notch to her designer belt — an Freeman told the editors. “People should not In a lawsuit filed June 1 in U.S. District of money to the nonprofit to get things started, honorary nursing diploma from the Phillips die of cancer because they are poor.” Court in Manhattan, attorney David Lopez, and said she’ll fund her namesake foundation Beth Israel School of Nursing in New York. “It on behalf of Target shareholder Deborah through corporate partnerships and sales of was truly an honor and it was very humbling. WATCH OUT: Skulls may have become a tad Donoghue, accused Ackman and Pershing goods such as tote bags and T-shirts. “Despite To speak to these brand-new 100 nurses, all fashion victim, but Colette is backing a design Square of breaking the short-swing rule by the economy, and in fact because of it, now’s you could see [on their faces] was love and it feels has more substance. Today, a new making trades while owning a larger than 10 the time for people to step up and help,” said compassion. It has enormous meaning to limited edition BR01 Airborne skull watch line percent stake, and seeks to recover profits. Burch, adding her business also has been me,” said the newly minted “Nurse” Donna. by Bell & Ross goes on sale in the store which Lopez said his calculations included hit by the recession. “We still need to do a Karan, who already possesses an honorary has bagged a two-week exclusive. Launched to “common stock underlying over-the-coun- tremendous amount of work.” doctorate from Parsons The New School for coincide with the 65th anniversary of D-Day, ter American-style call options and cash- Villaraigosa lauded Burch for “using her Design, addressed the new inductees into the line, with its skull-shaped faces, pays settled equity swaps.” celebrity for good,” but didn’t pause to do the nursing profession by recounting her homage to the emblems on uniforms worn by According to published reports, the any shopping on his way out. “I’ll read about own personal journey. She recalled how she paratroopers of the U.S. Airborne divisions Southampton, N.Y., native has hit executives it on TMZ tomorrow if I do,” he said. produced the collection for Anne Klein, when during World War II, said to symbolize courage from companies such as Parlux Fragrances Klein was losing her battle with breast cancer in the face of death. “I think it’s a great and Casual Male Retail with similar suits LAW SUIT: Esteban Cortazar has launched a and Karan was in the throes of giving birth project as it has a real story behind it and real since as early as 1990. A national search lawsuit against Emanuel Ungaro, according to Gabby, and her late husband Stephan’s technique,” said Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, who of court records showed 137 securities to sources. As reported, Cortazar is parting valiant fight against lung cancer, as well as has chosen to dedicate the store’s windows to suits have been filed on behalf of Deborah ways with the Paris-based fashion house. her numerous efforts through the Urban Zen the line for its launch, along with a parachute Donoghue in federal courts since 2001. Sources said Friday the designer’s lawyers Foundation to help cancer patients. “I started and airplane seat for mood. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 The Easy Way From Eighties Riviera looks to lace dresses with a touch of the pirate, styles for resort have an easygoing charm.

Stella McCartney: “We’re all fed up with walking into shops and seeing winter clothes in the middle of summer and vice versa,” said Stella McCartney during a walk-through of her resort collection in London. “This collection is more consumer-friendly. We treated resort as a series of months rather than a season, and there are various fabric weights for different times of the year.” She mixed the whimsical and the sophisticated and toyed with volume and shape: Scribble- print cotton organza trenches morphed into dresses when belted at the waist, and blouses dropped down to the knee, thanks to invisible snaps. McCartney played with texture for evening, turning out languid tuxedo suits, curvy dresses with three- dimensional embroidery and cropped lace jackets with structured shoulders.

Roberto Cavalli: Cavalli channeled an Eighties French Riviera joie de vivre with easy- to-mix pieces, which included slouchy cargo pants, breezy layered dresses and sexy shorts. Textures and colorful prints were key, especially Stella sailor stripes, a graphic McCartney diamond motif, crinkled effects, cutouts and matte beaded motifs. Roberto Cavalli 3.1 Phillip Lim: “Fall was about rock ’n’ roll. This is what that girl would be like on the beach,” said Phillip Lim of 3.1 Phillip Lim. “She would be a pirate.” One who dresses, of course, with the casual-cool polish for which Lim’s known. So she’ll wear those pirate polkadots, but as paillettes on a prettily draped dress and lace turns up in girlish blouses and vests, some in gold-metal versions for what the designer called “a little treasure.”

Doo.Ri: At Doo.Ri, resort is all about presenting an easy, wearable and salable collection. “I want resort to be cohesive with spring, and I think of how the two will mesh together on the selling floor in terms of merchandising,” explains designer Doo-Ri Chung. Her jersey knit suits and pleated jersey dresses in a navy and gray palette do, in fact, promise to translate well into the next season.

3.1 Phillip Lim Roberto Cavalli WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 7 WWD.COM

Stella McCartney Doo.Ri

Stella McCartney studio and khepri im Jenkins T centeno, talaya by photos 8 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 WWD.COM

Helmut Lang

Kate Spade Dusan

Rena Lange a

The Players mitr At Helmut Lang, creative directors Michael and Nicole Colovos were inspired by the concept of decay, which they channeled via coated and distressed fabric robert nd a treatments that didn’t detract from the lineup’s luxe feel. Meanwhile, René Gruau’s illustrations served as inspiration for Rena Lange’s playful-yet-elegant resort collection, featuring pieces that are easy to mix and match, such as a short-sleeve ribbon jacket and centeno a simple shirtdresses. Holly Golightly taking a spontaneous trip was the inspiration behind y a l

Deborah Lloyd’s resort collection for Kate Spade. “I wanted to show whimsical pieces that a are fun and lighthearted for the ultimate party girl,” she said, showing Fifties-style, brightly t colored skirts and dresses as well as nautical-striped jackets. Elsewhere, Dusan Paunovic’s effortless resort collection took its cue from tailored men’s wear, softened, the designer Aquino,

said, by “precious fabrics and feminine pieces.” That translates for Dusan into oversize but John impeccably tailored jackets, long gilets and boyfriend sweaters over draped pants, all in by black, gray and beige. The result was a balance of languid and sporty. photos WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 9 WWD.COM Innerwear Report A Look at Chantelle’s Colorful 60 Years By Karyn Monget early Seventies. Today, Chantelle prod- An ultrafeminine Chantelle’s ucts are sold in over 700 department and Chantelle Group, the 133-year- bra and panty highly specialty store doors in the U.S., with the old French bra company, celebrated the set by embellished Chantelle brand being about one out of 60th anniversary of the Chantelle brand at Chantelle. lace balconette 25 bras sold in department stores, said La Grenouille in Manhattan last month. bra, undies and Sonja Winther, president of the U.S. divi- Patrice Kretz, president of the $500 thigh-highs. sion, Chantelle Lingerie Inc. million business, hosted the luncheon on “Over the last 10 years [1998 to 2008], May 15 for some 40 members of the media, our sales have more than doubled,” said where models strolled and posed along a Winther, who would not give an actual balcony and stairwell wearing a number sales figure. “The increase over the last of embellished Chantelle bras and undies. five years has been about 35 percent.” Also on display were visuals of ad cam- Regarding European business, Kretz paigns throughout the decades, including noted that since April 2008 the Paris- one highly successful ad from the Sixties based company has opened two addition- that had a tag line saying “On Aimes les al Chantelle stores, now totaling six in Seins,” or “We Love Breasts.” France, and operates two Passionata bou- Kretz is a third-generation owner of tiques for its young, contemporary brand. Chantelle lingerie, which traces its roots As part of a strategic growth plan, the back to 1876 as a maker of elastic knits, firm acquired the 65-unit Orcanta linge- became a corset specialist in 1902 with rie chain from French luxury and retail stretch elastic fabrics and introduced the group PPR in August 2006. Orcanta had first Chantelle bras in 1961. Kretz said the annual sales in excess of $63 million. Chantelle name was inspired by either a Under Chantelle’s aegis, the number of village or a woman. Orcanta stores was cut to 58. They contin- “My grandfather spent some time in ue to sell fashion lingerie brands, includ- a village called Chantelle, which he was ing Lise Charmel, Aubade, Simone Perele very fond of,” said Kretz. “But then, he and Lejaby, as well as classic products also had a mistress named Chantelle. It’s from Calvin Klein Underwear. still a mystery.” Kretz added the company continues Chantelle’s operations in the U.S. to retain model Stephanie Seymour in began with Neiman Marcus in the late Chantelle’s multimillion-dollar ad cam- Fifties, when the brand started marketing paign called “Beyond Beauty,” aimed to and selling shapewear, expanding into the appeal to Chantelle’s core customer in bra business for American women in the the 30-to-35 age range.

Eres’ New Campaign Geren Ford Does Intimates By Marcy Medina LOS ANGELES — In a return to her roots, contemporary sportswear designer Geren Lockhart, who launched her Geren Ford collection with camis and boyshorts in 2002, is launching a lingerie line for holiday. The 11-piece silk collection, wholesaling for $34 to $116, echoes the vintage-inspired feel of her sportswear line in solid black, white and jewel tones. There are camis, slips, panties, tap pants and pajama pants. Details include ruffles, tucks, pleats, snaps and exposed zippers. “My sportswear line first came about because nobody would wear my lingerie as intimates — they only wore it as ready-to-wear,” said Lockhart, who quickly branched into drawstring pants and silk tops and dresses. The line now includes knits, jersey, denim and leather. “Now that we have more of a story to tell, we feel that we can go back into that [lingerie] market,” she said. “It’s great to have an opportunity in an additional category. This falls between high- end luxury and the more practical stuff. Not a great deal of people are playing in that market.” Geren Ford’s Lockhart described her aesthetic as ruffled top and “clothes that you want to pack in your low-rise undies. bag when you go on vacation, the lingerie Eres’ new model, being an extension of that. I’m launching Lara Stone. it now because the holiday season is a time a when people are more indulgent and pausing tr

Lara Stone has been tapped as the new model mi to enjoy life.” A signature for luxury lingerie and swimwear brand Eres. Stone, who ert Lockhart declined to give a first-year sales Geren Ford b

ro cami and

is appearing in several spring-summer 2009 ad campaigns projection for the intimates, but the line could including Givenchy, Hugo Boss and Jean Paul Gaultier, is by generate wholesale sales of $1 million to $2 mil- bottom. e under a one-year contract with Chanel-owned Eres, and ll lion, according to industry estimates. Deliveries te

will be featured in the fall-winter 2009 campaign for linge- an begin in October. Lockhart said she is targeting h

rie in the August edition of fashion magazines in France, ; c lingerie departments in the same stores that sell

Italy, Spain and the U.S. Photographed by Ian Welters, who ers her sportswear, including Barneys New York, has done a number of celebrity covers for Elle magazine, w Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. Stone will also be featured in Eres’ lingerie and swimwear po Upcoming pre-spring and spring inner- ERT campaigns for 2010. Valerie Delafosse, creative director of B wear collections will consist of cotton, Eres, said the inspiration for the fall-winter campaign was RO washed silk and silk-screened silk. “German Expressionism with a lot of dark colors like faux noir. It’s very Garbo and Dietrich-looking, with a feeling of, ‘Is it a man or a woman?’”

— K.M. FORD PHOTOS by 10 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009

Accessories Report Jewelers Adapt to New Priorities

Continued from page one The new mood was on full display at the jewelry trade shows here, including Couture at the Wynn resort from May 28 to June 2 and JCK, which took place at the Sands Expo & Convention Center from May 30 to June 3. The shows proved quieter than in years past, with Sasha Primak’s earrings. fewer exhibitors and retailers, but orders were placed and executives predicted a better holiday than last year’s dismal season. But jewelers and retailers appear to have learned their lesson, offering lower-priced collections; injecting more bang for the buck, and adding more casual pieces. “We’re very cognizant of where the consumer is spending for themselves Stephen for a gift,” said John Webster’s Green, president and earrings. chief executive officer of Lux, Bond & Green, the 111-year-old retailer with eight locations on the East Coast, who is investing the stores’ buy more into silver. “Luxury is a tough word. Celebration is a great word.” Jim Rosenheim, ceo of Tiny Jewel Box in Washington, D.C., said, “What we’re seeing is people buying for occasions, not retail therapy.” Cody Kondo, Saks Fifth Avenue’s group senior vice president and general merchandise manager of fashion and fine jewelry, watches, women’s shoes, handbags and soft accessories, sought value but said that word doesn’t only correlate with a low price. “It is really about the right mix of style and quality,” Kondo said. “The customer has to be able to see and appreciate how the piece was made, that the materials are of substantial quality and that the style is Judith on trend. To further service our fashion Ripka’s jewelry customer, we were encouraged to ring. find several new designers that we believe offer a fresh, new, modern aesthetic that will satisfy both new and existing clients.” Joanne Teichman, owner of the Ylang 23 boutique in Dallas that carries brands such as Temple St. Clair, Irene Neuwirth and Robert Lee Lucifer Vir Honestus, took a similar view, explain- Morris for ing, “We came here with no expectations. We wanted Elizabeth and to be conservative. But we have spent a lot. When the James’ cuff. merchandise is spectacular and irresistible, there will be someone to buy it.” Teichman is one of the few retailers that wasn’t price- point focused, but lauded designers for offering a wider range of prices than before. Most brands sought to have a wide offering mixing some new styles with a bevy of tried- and-true bestsellers. David Yurman offered a strong showing in silver this season with beaded gemstone torsade statement necklaces, cocktail rings set with faceted ruby and yellow onyx, and several pieces with black diamond pavé set into oxidized black metal. Yurman ceo Paul Blum used Couture as an opportunity to connect with the firm’s wholesale partners and take the temperature of the market. “[Consumers] are feeling much more confident,” said Blum. “People are shopping a little more and they’re buy- photo by thomas iannaccone ing product at different price points. I don’t feel it’s back to the levels it was at, but it’s getting normalized.” Brian Ripka, president of Judith Ripka Creations, said, “The [retailers] that showed up were surprisingly optimistic. We had diminished expectations last year and they were lower this year. There was a weeding out process. They wrote more than we thought they were going to write. They had their inventories under control and they were David Yurman’s cuff. optimistic and wrote into their optimism.” In an effort to keep prices reasonable, many brands such as Yurman and Ripka offered larger silver assortments. Roberto Coin, who made several of his gold pieces more lightweight to save on cost, has delved into silver for the first time with his Capri collection of gunmetal-coated WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 11 WWD.COM Accessories Report Jewelers Adapt to New Priorities

Andrea Fohrman’s pendant. Gurhan’s earrings.

Temple St. Clair’s pendant.

bangles inlaid with semiprecious gemstones. “The recession is on, we know,” said Coin. “Consumers want maximum quality and value for something different.” Ripka said the company saw a spike in silver sales, as did Monica Rich Kossan, Maya Jewels, Leslie Greene, Gurhan and Stephen Webster, many of which have launched silver collections in the past two years. Webster ceo Terri Eagle said the brand’s silver line continues to grow and that retailers such as Saks and Neiman Marcus sought exclusives from the collection. Robert Lee Morris, whose business is rooted in silver, offered col- Irene lections that were derivations of his necklaces and other jewelry Neuwirth’s for Donna Karan’s runway, as well as the Robert Lee Morris for necklace. Elizabeth & James collection, which launched last year as a joint venture with Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s contemporary apparel line. Both lines were among the hits of the show. Some of the top sell- ers included rings with several pom-pomlike spheres, amorphous stack bangles in silver and wood from Morris’ signature line. “The morale in our company was just boosted,” said Morris, who said the company was booked solid with appointments. “It’s a very creative time for me.” Monique One major silver jewelry vendor, John Hardy, was noticeably ab- Péan’s sent from Couture. The company showed privately in a hotel suite, bracelet. as opposed to the large and elaborate ballroom it typically shows in. Due to the economic climate, ceo Damien Dernoncourt said showing privately was more cost efficient this year. A further sign that extravagance is out, at least for the time being, is that across the board, key price points are now in the $500 to $2,000 range, down from the $2,000 to $10,000 bracket that was so popular a year ago before the economy’s dive. The silver lines fall comfortably into the lower-price range, but retailers and designers overall have remained careful to dress up silver on the fine jewelry level with some diamond and gold details, as not to diminish their brands’ luxury status. Pearls were also big news at the shows. Several credited First Lady Michelle Obama as the inspiration for classic two-row pearl necklaces, while others such as Slane and Slane used freshwater pearls rather creatively in torsades, and a even a bib necklace of gold and pearls. Tara showed white South Sea drop pen- dants with rose-cut diamonds. And even as consumers focus more on special-occasion buying rather than indulgence, statement pieces remain in the mix. Yossi Harari’s Mexican fire opal suites included a necklace with the distinctive orange-hued opals with black diamond covered beads and high karat gold; Irene Neuwirth showed oversize bibs with turquoise, onyx and moonstone, Eclat Jewels Inc. conch Marco pear and diamond briolette sautoir, De Grisogono’s aquamarine, turquoise Bicego’s and emerald collar, and Sevan’s formidable baroque pearl cocktail rings ring. with diamond set upside down are priced well into the five figures. Brands well-versed in the high end diversified their assortments to include more affordable and casual pieces. Sasha Primak, known for its weighty diamond eternity rings, launched a charm line with micro pavé diamond details. Primak’s lines typically start at $50,000 at retail, but the new collection starts at a modest $1,000. Other trends included black or white diamonds set into blackened gold or oxidized silver showcased at Nam Cho, Arman, Andrea Fohrman and Coomi, and the continued push into men’s jewelry. Cuff links, brace- lets, rings and necklaces for men were offered by David Yurman, Marco Bicego, Damiani and Shamballa Jewels. Rose gold also remains an important component for brands. Temple St. Clair launched a line in the pink-hued metal, as did Monica Rich Kossan. Alternative diamond cuts included rose cuts and diamond slices at Nina Runsdorf, Andrea Forhman and Paul Morelli. For more images, Paul Morelli’s While the troubled economy defied a clear picture of what’s to come see WWD.com. for fine jewelry, the bottom line was defined by Marie Helene Morrow of bracelet. Reinhold in San Juan, Puerto Rico. “We are stocking up with people that sell,” she said. “We are partners for the long term and this is a blip.” 12 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 WWD.COM MEMO PAD K&G Wins Auction for Filene’s O’BRIEN TO EXIT?: Glenn O’Brien is said to be on his way out at Interview. As WWD reported on Wednesday, changes at the top are imminent at the By Vicki M. Young and Jean E. Palmieri on the board of New York & Company Inc. and magazine. According to sources, co-editorial director O’Brien is being pushed the Vitamin Shoppe, could not be reached for out, as the working relationship between him and owner Peter Brant appears to THE K&G ACQUISITION CORP., A DIVISION comment over the weekend. have deteriorated. O’Brien would be leaving just one year after joining Interview of The Men’s Wearhouse Inc., outbid two other FB II Acquisition Corp., a holding compa- with Fabien Baron, who also had signed on as co-editorial director. Baron left parties for bankrupt Filene’s Basement late ny of the Buxbaum Group, acquired Filene’s the title in January. — Stephanie D. Smith Friday night after a lengthy auction, agreeing Basement from Retail Ventures Inc. on April to pay more than $60 million for a total of 17 to 20. Two weeks later, the off-pricer filed for 20 sites and store inventory. Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protection, post- The deal is for $62 million in cash and the ing $182 million in liabilities and $84 million first $5 million of the money Men’s Wearhouse in assets for the year ended Jan. 31. Retail would receive from Vornado Realty Trust. Ventures had closed 11 stores prior to the According to sources, since January, Vornado April transfer to FB II. has been paying $500,000 a month to the retailer for not delivering the store that is planned for the promi- nent and problematic Downtown Crossing development in downtown Boston. (Vornado also made a play for Filene’s Basement, in a joint effort with Syms Corp.) Work on the $700 million Klein Downtown Crossing development stopped in 2007 due to construc- tion issues over the property’s rede- velopment into a mixed-used site.

Steven photo by Under the terms of the deal, Filene’s Dolce & Gabbana’s fall-winter 2009-10 ad campaign. Basement was to have received a 20-year lease at the bargain base- IN THE RING AND THE POOL: Dolce & Gabbana are hoping their fall ad campaign ment price of just over $2 a square will be a knockout inside and outside the boxing ring — while the summer foot. The new store was originally The deal would include funds Vornado will pay Men’s Wearhouse one for their underwear is headed to the pool. Taking inspiration from Italian scheduled to open this year. for the failure of the Downtown Crossing project in Boston. film director Luchino Visconti’s pugilist flick “Rocco e I Suoi Fratelli” (“Rocco K&G Aquisition’s bid includes the and His Brothers”), the campaign, shot by Steven Klein, features Madonna’s Basement’s Boston flagship. Also bidding for the Basement were Crown beau Jesus Luz, David Gandy, Noah Mills, Adam Senn, Julienne Quevenne and Eva K&G operates the chain K&G Fashion Acquisitions and the joint venture between Herzigova, in historical boxing sanctuary Gleason’s Gym in Brooklyn, the one- Superstores, which sells discount designer ap- Syms and Vornado. Crown Acquisitions was time training base of Mohammad Ali and Mike Tyson. parel for men, women and children. According named stalking horse bidder for Filene’s be- Meanwhile, the underwear campaign was shot by Mariano Vivanco and features to sources, Men’s Wearhouse will convert fore the auction. Crown’s bid was $22 million five swimmers from the Italian national team — Nicola Cassio, Paolo Bossini, the majority of the existing K&G stores into for 17 of Filene’s 25 sites. Emiliano Brembilla, Alessandro Terrin and Mirko Di Tora — posing in front of a pool Filene’s Basements. Stevan Buxbaum of the Buxbaum Group at the Circolo Aniene de Roma, Rome’s historical swimming arena. The campaign Men’s Wearhouse’s plan is one of reorgani- over the weekend cautioned that the auction breaks this month in leading publications in Italy, the U.K., France, Germany and zation that will retain the majority of Filene’s result isn’t official until bankruptcy court ap- Spain ahead of the World Swimming Championship to be held June 17 in Rome. Basement’s 1,800 employees, including the proval is granted. There were rumblings by The campaigns continue the Italian maison’s association with sports. D&G featured bulk of the buyers, according to sources. estate sources in the past two days that the rugby players in its ads last year, while in 2006 members of Italy’s Word Cup winning Considered a favorable workplace for employ- auction might be contested, possibly by Crown. soccer team appeared in Dolce & Gabbana’s underwear campaign. — Emilie Marsh ees, Men’s Wearhouse has been voted one of The contention reportedly is that K&G was the top 100 companies to work for by Fortune given excess time to submit a bid. Zac Posen at FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Most people know Zac Magazine for seven of the past eight years. Filene’s Basement was founded in 1909, the Scholastic Posen as the bon vivant New Yorker with The bid requires Delaware bankruptcy court and previously filed for Chapter 11 in 1999. conversation. a passion for dramatic designs, but fewer, approval. A hearing is set for Wednesday. David It was acquired by Value City in 2000. Value

ign perhaps, realize he is quite the foodie. Posen Edwab, vice chairman of Men’s Wearhouse and City, which was acquired s e

D admits his waistline is often in flux, and the company’s long-time dealmaker, is report- by Retail Ventures in 2003, while in high school in 1998, he won two edly spearheading the bidding process. Edwab, went bankrupt and was liq- and s Scholastic Art & Writing Awards, one of which who has also worked for Bear Stearns and sits uidated in 2008. rt A was for a short story he wrote about a person of

m who, because of a wrong measurement of an eu

s WwD ingredient in a Martha Stewart recipe, is driven to kill the domestic queen. On Friday morning, Men’s Posen recalled this, and many other anecdotes,

oler / Mu Prada Opens Men’s Unit in Madrid k when he spoke to over 100 Scholastic Art & Writing Award winners at the Museum of Arts MILAN — Prada opened a men’s-only store in Madrid on & Design on Columbus Circle in Manhattan. Friday, making it the third unit in the Spanish capital. He told the crowd he never turns to trend Located on shopping thoroughfare Calle Goya, forecasters while conceptualizing the next around the corner from Prada’s women’s store,

So Katie photo by collection. “Curiosity is very important,” Posen which opened in April, the new men’s shop carries said. “I am always trying to stay curious and ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories. open and take in knowledge. I think you create your own trend forecast.” Designed by Italian architect Roberto Baciocchi, In the conversation with Susan Harris, the textile designer and founder the 1,240-square-foot store features ebony paneling of home furnishings brand SeaCloth, he also talked about his career path, and parquet with beige carpeting and chrome and inspirations and design process, the importance of being a communicator in glass shelving units. this media-savvy age, and his culinary preferences. He favors vegetables and Prada Group, which includes Prada, Church’s, rice over a meat-heavy diet, and cooks at home three nights a week. “I went Car Shoe and Miu Miu, counts 238 stores world- home after the Met ball and made a pasta sauce with whole wheat pasta and wide, a spokeswoman said. puff pastry, instead of going to a raucous party.” — Marc Karimzadeh — Emilie Marsh Prada’s men’s store in Madrid. Daphne Guinness to Launch First Scent in September LONDON — Although Daphne Guinness’ first commer- Woody notes, for instance, recall floors and Christian Astuguevieille was the proj- cialized fragrance, Daphne, will only hit counters in furniture from the house where she grew ect’s creative director. September, the socialite is far from a novice when it up, while oud was included since her moth- The fragrance, which will bow Sept. comes to scented creations. er often brought the ingredient back from 4 at Dover Street Market and worldwide “I’ve always made my own with essential oils and alco- trips to the Middle East. starting Sept. 18, will retail at $140 for a hol in my bathroom,” said Guinness, whose multihyphen- Adrian Joffe, chief executive officer of 50-ml. spray. In keeping with Guinness’ ated professional descriptor includes writer, filmmaker Comme des Garçons International, recalled literary leanings, Daphne’s outer carton and designer. “For me, [scent] is time travel. It takes you Guinness insisting he whiff oud in the door- is made of white linen book cloth, while away from the everyday and you are transported to some- way of Dover Street Market, Comme des its interior has a high-gloss black finish. thing in your past. It’s a very mysterious thing. It’s magic.” Garçons’ multibrand store in London. “I love black and white,” she said, “You can’t resist such passion,” he said. Daphne by Daphne Guinness. adding a red velvet pouch, which pro- “She always picked the most presti- tects the flacon is “your heart ripped out. gious and expensive ingredients,” added Lie. “We’ve Inside that is the essence of the heart.” The rounded BEAUTY BEAT taken classic ingredients and arranged them in a way glass bottle features an engraving of the scent’s name. It comes as little surprise, then, that when working that is very modern.” A first run of 5,000 flacons will be produced. on Daphne, Guinness, who inked a fragrance deal with Daphne’s top notes include bitter orange, incense Comme des Garçons has a history of linking with other Comme des Garçons Parfum in 2007, plunged into her past and saffron. At the eau de parfum’s heart are rose cen- names in the design world, including milliner Stephen for inspiration. Working with Givaudan perfumer Antoine tifolia, Tunisian jasmine, tuberose and iris notes. Its Jones and Monocle magazine, to produce fragrances. Lie, Guinness chose ingredients with personal meaning. base comprises patchouli, oud, amber and vanilla notes. — Brid Costello WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 13 WWD.COM May Shows Signs of Life Carol Brodie Partners With HSN for Collection By Sophia Chabbott Items from Rarities: Carol Brodie is bringing her Fine jewelry with particular brand of glamour, glitz Carol Brodie. As Job Loss Rate Drops and style to the masses. Brodie, a veteran of the jewelry By Liza Casabona industry known for her work as a spokeswoman at De Beers and WASHINGTON — The pace of job losses in the U.S. that have bal- Harry Winston, is introducing her looned since the Wall Street collapse last fall slowed in May, as the own jewelry line with multichannel economy shed 345,000 jobs — the fewest losses since September — retailer HSN. and the unemployment rate rose to 9.4 percent from 8.9 percent in The line, dubbed Rarities: Fine April, the Labor Department said Friday. Jewelry with Carol Brodie, is com- Since the recession started in December 2007, six million jobs prised of red carpet and high jewel- have been lost, according to the Labor Department. Employment ry-inspired pieces with diamonds, levels have fallen consistently this year, but the May drop was about gemstones, gold, silver and gold ver- half the average monthly decline over the last six months. meil, with prices ranging from $89 “The light at the end of the tunnel just got a lot brighter,” said to $799.90. Brodie will conduct her Nigel Gault, chief U.S. economist at IHS Global Insight. “May’s em- debut show June 21, the same day ployment report brings clear evidence that the labor market is be- the line will launch on hsn.com. ginning to stabilize.” “Jewelry is my passion and my Department stores helped the jobs picture by adding 4,500 po- love,” said Brodie, who has been col- sitions to employ 1.53 million last month, but specialty stores that lecting since she was a child. “I have have been hurt more by consumer spending cutbacks slashed 3,300 always been obsessed with fine jew- jobs to employ 1.43 million. elry and gemstones my entire life.” Apparel fabric manufacturers, or textile mills, eliminated 800 po- Her personal collection includes sitions to employ 127,000 workers last month. Textile product mills, rare diamonds, signed pieces and notable works of the HSN collection. “It’s about layering and which make home furnishing fabric, cut 100 jobs to 127,200 positions. from Tiffany & Co. and Buccellati. building a great wardrobe of jewelry.” Domestic apparel producers added 200 jobs to employ 170,100. The collections are divided into cities where Brodie, who has helped outfit celebrities such Economists cautioned that while the May report gave some cause Brodie has traveled and found inspiration. The as Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Hudson and Halle to hope for recovery, job losses are still rising. Palm Beach series incorporates white quartzite Berry in Harry Winston jewelry for major red “It’s encouraging news, but we’re far from out of the woods yet,” cuffs with gold and turquoise; the Rio carpet events, is recreating such iconic jewelry said Richard Yamarone, director of economic research at Argus collection contains faceted am- looks for her line. She has designed a pink Research Corp. “We’re still furloughing hundreds of thousands ethyst and smoky quartz cocktail amethyst ring with diamonds that recalls of workers. I’m not willing to believe that consumers are all that rings, and the Capri collection Jennifer Lopez’s much-buzzed-about pink confident when the unemployment rate is rapidly approaching 10 has bright stones echoing the vi- diamond engagement ring given to her percent.” brancy of the island. by then-fiancé Ben Affleck, as well as Labor Secretary Hilda Solis called the rise in May’s unemploy- Through her years in the in- a citrine ring inspired by a yellow ment rate “unacceptable” and pledged to help bring it down by dustry, Brodie counts many in- diamond once worn by Hudson. helping the unemployed get new skills or training. fluences, but a key mentor was “The idea is to bring that fine Scott Hoyt, senior director of consumer economics at Moody’s Ambaji Shinde, who spent a life- jewelry category at accessible Economy.com, said department stores have fared better than spe- time designing jewelry for the price points in those looks,” cialty retailers because the sector encompasses a broad range of Maharajas of India as head de- said HSN chief executive offi- companies that sell at a variety of price points, allowing them to signer for Winston. cer Mindy Grossman. “Luxury keep staffing levels marginally higher. “He would show me every facet is being redefined, to a degree. “In general we know the discount retailers are performing better in and every groove of a gemstone You can get the take-your- the current economic climate as consumers trade down,” Hoyt said. and explained to me that to make a breath-away unique piece…but Wal-Mart Stores Inc. said last week it would add 22,000 U.S. jobs beautiful piece of jewelry, you have to people are being more discerning. to payrolls. show the natural beauty of the stones,” It’s not about amassing a quantity of “Clearly, the precipitous plunge [in employment] late last year and Brodie said. things.” early this year has moderated sharply,” said Charles McMillion, presi- One of her goals is to not only make beautiful Grossman declined to offer sales projections dent and chief economist at MBG Information Services. jewelry accessible, but also to show women how for Rarities, but said fine jewelry is a corner- But economists noted the auto sector collapse will impact top-line to style and layer the pieces creatively. stone of the HSN business and comprises 16 per- employment numbers significantly in the coming months. However, “Rarities is all about confidence,” said Brodie cent of sales. they also point out the federal economic stimulus package is expected to help bolster the economy as projects get under way this summer. OBITUARY Safilo Anticipates Private Equity Stake Offers By Andrew Roberts “at least two” private equity funds were ongoing and a deal funds — thought to be Bain could be reached before the sum- Joseph Behar, 80, Owner MILAN — Safilo Group SpA said Capital and PAI — were to sub- mer. The other funds linked to Friday it expects to receive “of- mit offers for a stake in Safilo the eyewear firm are CVC Capital fers soon” regarding the pos- on Friday as it looks to ease Partners and Apax Partners. sible entry of a private equity mounting debts and declining As of March 31, Safilo’s net Of Clothing Manufacturer fund into its share capital. demand, according to sources. financial position rose to 617.7 By Lisa Lockwood “The company will present Neither equity fund returned million euros, or $879.4 million the eventual offers to the board,” calls seeking comment. at current exchange, from 570 NEW YORK — Joseph “Jo” Behar, owner and chief executive officer of Safilo stated, after the eyewear Safilo chief executive officer million, or $811.5 million, at the Andrea Behar, a women’s contemporary clothing and private label firm’s stock was temporarily sus- Roberto Vedovotto said in April close of 2008. manufacturer, died of throat cancer Tuesday at Lenox Hill Hospital pended on the Milan Bourse fol- that talks between the group’s The Tabacchi family con- here. He was 80 years old. lowing a 13.7 percent gain. majority shareholder Only 3T trols 39.9 percent of Safilo via Behar, who was born in France, started his career in his family’s As reported Thursday, SpA and four private equity Only 3T. fabric business. He then took a position in the corporate office of Frank Oliver, the French designer firm. In 1971, Behar opened the New York office of Frank Oliver, where he was the import director, and where he met his wife, Andrea. They ran the operation together, as she would Harry Winston Hit by Luxe Spending Falloff edit and remerchandise the French collection for the U.S. customer. Behar later owned a company called Jabé. In 1987, the Behars By Evan Clark Including the firm’s mining operations, which started Andrea Behar, a contemporary sportswear firm and private produced 700,000 carats worth of rough dia- label manufacturer that sells to retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Both sides of Harry Winston Diamond monds in the quarter ended April 30, the net loss Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Dillard’s. Corp.’s business — its 18 high-end stores and its tallied $45.1 million, or 68 cents a share, com- At Andrea Behar’s first office on West 38th Street, Jo Behar often mining operations — lost a good deal of their pared with year-ago earnings of $21.3 million, or cooked meals for his employees, who ate together in the kitchen. He sparkle in the first quarter as luxury spending 35 cents. Sales fell 29.8 percent to $109.6 million. was a lover of fine food, especially French cuisine. One of his favor- continued to dwindle. With sales down and the cost of sales up nearly ite experiences occurred in the Seventies when he was a contestant However, the company said deterioration in $11 million, gross margin declined to 23.4 per- on the TV game show “To Tell the Truth.” He appeared with André business conditions had been reversed since the cent of sales from 53.1 percent in the comparable Soltner, the renowned French chef, and when the panelists had to start of the second quarter. period of fiscal 2009. pick the real Soltner, or one of two imposters, they picked Behar Operating losses at the Harry Winston chain But chairman and chief executive officer based on his answers to questions about French food. more than doubled to $5 million from $2.4 mil- Robert Gannicott said business had taken a turn Behar was actively involved in the company until a few weeks lion a year earlier, as sales fell 30.4 percent to for the better. before his death. He was an avid tennis fan and regularly attended $52 million. “We began this quarter with a rough diamond the U.S. Open. Like many other retailers, Harry Winston has market that could see no bottom and retail sales In addition to his wife, Andrea, who serves as president and de- cut staff, closely monitored its inventories and effectively stalled,” Gannicott said. “We ended signer of Andrea Behar, he is survived by a sister, six children and reduced capital expenditures in hopes of keep- the quarter with consistent improvement in one grandchild. ing expenses in line with lower demand. The rough diamond prices and the return of custom- A memorial service was held Sunday at the Vander Plaat Funeral tony retailer slashed selling, general and admin- ers to our retail stores. This improvement has Home in Wyckoff, N.J. Burial will be in France. The family said do- istrative expenses by $5.8 million to $30.2 million continued through May in both of our business nations may be made to Hackensack University Medical Center. for the quarter. segments.” 14 WWD, monday, june 8, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Retail Stocks Gain 4.8% for Week Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt By Evan Clark High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Despite news that might have caused out- 71.31 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 13.6 34271554 27.31 -2.80 38.00 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 31.6 15656916 26.30 0.44 right panic a year ago — the bankruptcy of General 26.14 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 18.1 1811163 14.93 1.51 44.20 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 13.8 40237513 29.05 2.96 Motors Corp., 345,000 new job losses and monthly 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) 31.3 2126898 0.60 0.03 8.00 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 0 7.25 0.00 same-store sales declines of more than 25 percent for 37.96 12.52 Aeropostale (ARO) 16.6 19758560 36.41 1.79 1.67 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 8.6 390153 0.59 -0.01 both Neiman Marcus Inc. and Saks Inc. — retail stocks 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.7 3484832 24.08 0.84 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 12044581 10.66 1.56 pushed ahead 4.8 percent last week. 10.25 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 79.8 2008155 4.03 0.07 42.50 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 12.3 4719481 39.72 1.90 The S&P Retail Index increased 15.20 points to 18.00 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 19.4 24180874 14.85 0.04 18.50 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 296745 7.35 0.39 334.12 last week as the Dow Jones Industrial Average advanced 3.1 percent, or 262.80 points, to 8,763.13. 27.55 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 10134327 7.29 -0.03 47.80 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) 22.5 41572513 12.40 0.71 Shares of Saks fell 1.8 percent for the week to $3.75. 425.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 43.9 1333327 377.25 -9.25 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 15.9 30799421 45.97 3.50 Neiman Marcus is privately held. 45.34 14.40 Avon (AVP) 19.6 21725205 26.72 0.16 20.76 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) 27.2 826114 9.73 0.98 Stocks held up, in part, because the GM insolvency 11.26 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 25.3 2186192 7.73 -0.33 17.63 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 13.3 19228 9.80 0.40 seemed to be somewhat orderly, job losses were better 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 14.9 2510249 33.97 -0.68 22.16 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 19.7 25984094 12.92 0.41 than the 525,000 expected and sales of luxury goods 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 8.6 944639 6.90 0.31 20.14 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 4765348 4.86 0.36 have been so bad that double-digit drops are no longer 3.33 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 23763 0.65 0.17 3.74 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 16.2 1352992 1.79 0.12 surprising. 44.29 27.26 BJs (BJ) 13.8 11854722 34.21 -1.03 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 16.7 4500014 55.21 -0.58 The markets also held their own because of a con- 0.29 0.03 Blue (BLHI) - 28400 0.09 0.04 30.12 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 25.6 4576539 13.97 1.34 tinuing sense that consumers could be loosening their 4.84 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 15970 1.32 0.10 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 18.9 3533659 14.95 0.29 purse strings, at least a bit. The NPD Group Inc.’s Retail Response Indicator, 7.24 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 584253 4.84 0.93 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 13.8 7488026 59.00 0.47 a survey measuring consumers’ spending intentions, 18.44 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 3465966 8.86 0.74 72.77 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 15.7 21304341 20.71 3.83 rose to 43.9 in May from 39.5 in April and 35.9 in 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 14.3 7801586 33.33 -2.45 23.35 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) - 69130867 12.81 1.13 March. The indicator runs from 0 to 100, with 0 repre- 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) 39.6 13444770 3.89 0.03 16.64 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 12.9 1398179 13.48 0.56 senting “reduce or spend less” and 100 representing 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 12030579 399.25 16.75 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 8.9 52298257 286.00 2.50 “spend more.” 15.75 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 12.2 2787026 13.21 -0.08 26.43 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 16.3 4599588 17.97 0.88 “We are seeing consumers move toward replace- 14.86 1.41 Caché (CACH) - 441845 4.33 0.27 26.17 4.65 Movado (MOV) 90.6 574573 8.27 0.69 ment and replenishment purchasing and these are the 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 17.7 10068975 32.38 0.80 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 12.5 6017109 18.04 0.93 kinds of purchases that would indicate we have taken 25.36 11.94 Carter (CRI) 17.9 4025462 24.48 0.83 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) - 2096367 3.59 -0.01 the first step toward recovery,” said Marshal Cohen, 4.95 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 2584722 2.50 0.75 0.26 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 484744 0.16 -0.04 the research group’s chief industry analyst. 21.05 11.30 Cato (CTR) 16.8 936776 20.47 1.23 70.28 38.24 Nike (NKE) 17.4 19882755 58.29 1.24 While there are still more questions than answers about the U.S. consumer, Spencer Leung, a UBS eq- 26.70 1.92 CBL (CBL) 90.6 12603737 7.36 1.13 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 209129 0.07 0.01 uity analyst in Asia, upgraded Li & Fung to “buy” from 8.88 2.05 CCA (CAW) 18.0 54200 2.97 -0.08 37.00 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 11.6 39278403 21.09 1.40 “sell” Wednesday, noting the sourcing company would 1.38 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 113086 0.50 -0.06 18.15 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 14.3 112748 15.93 -0.37 benefit as both U.S. consumers and retailers look to 18.92 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) - 1054089 11.41 1.26 29.02 3.14 Oxford (OXM) - 577265 11.50 2.23 stretch their dollars. 6.35 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 3848694 4.11 0.35 10.50 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 4213053 4.19 -0.10 Shares of Li & Fung shot up 20.8 percent to 25 Hong 82.00 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 17.9 1634875 66.06 6.33 7.15 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 258166 1.84 -0.18 Kong dollars, or $3.23, last week, outpacing the mar- 26.35 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 12.6 182386 20.48 -0.28 27.20 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 3351309 6.19 0.61 ket. The Hang Seng Index, of which the firm is a com- 10.50 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 27353728 9.98 0.22 27.70 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 1074888 9.02 0.85 ponent, rose 2.8 percent to 18,679.53. 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) 11.3 7353171 30.66 -5.25 45.77 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 23.0 4632319 31.30 1.83 Leung said a hike in commodity prices could force 12.00 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 938458 5.37 0.19 1.66 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 35175 0.35 0.01 U.S. consumers to trade down in their purchases. “Given that [the] unemployment rate will likely re- 33.73 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 11.2 9522331 22.83 -0.46 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 14.2 12156021 56.39 2.57 main at a high level in 2010...U.S. consumers will 28.12 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 18.0 1463435 23.66 -2.12 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 14.4 2586804 61.33 2.11 likely once gain resort to cheaper alternatives,” he 37.10 11.41 Coach (COH) 12.9 38201751 26.92 0.65 26.93 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 11.8 580372 18.03 1.36 said. Li & Fung sells goods to Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 4914537 5.00 1.20 10.34 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 11674580 3.49 0.44 many other retailers and vendors. 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 18.9 30745900 70.90 4.95 8.84 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 8.3 38270 6.27 0.22 The sourcing firm could also get a boost from a bit 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) - 11379012 14.60 -0.16 24.10 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 15.1 602424 11.51 2.50 more deal making. Already this year, the company 49.49 24.63 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 13.8 1487627 33.09 1.38 70.95 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 24.0 9646632 37.21 1.58 took on all of Liz Claiborne Inc.’s production and has 74.89 38.17 Costco (COST) 17.6 31827940 47.64 -0.88 5.43 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) 3.2 1417517 3.22 0.61 a nonbinding agreement to become The Talbots Inc.’s 10.55 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 10246905 3.30 0.39 14.85 2.30 Revlon (REV) 3.0 1403522 5.09 0.08 primary sourcing agent. 0.18 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 1400 0.06 0.00 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 11.9 12842161 24.14 0.96 “[Li & Fung’s] strong financial capacity could attract 144.93 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 11.4 3205173 63.65 5.69 41.56 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 15.9 16119855 39.36 0.20 more retailers with working capital constraint[s],” Leung said. 3.50 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 4.9 701881 2.60 0.18 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 11793298 0.48 0.05 Li & Fung could also buy a company outright. 9.00 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) 9.6 37664 7.65 -0.05 13.02 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 24915833 3.75 -0.07 “We need a major acquisition or outsourcing deal 17.39 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 59025 13.85 0.05 108.75 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 66.7 8758060 69.47 12.62 to meet our targets in the three-year plan,” presi- 41.60 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 19425756 5.60 0.69 106.43 24.27 Simon Property Group (SPG) 28.3 37050985 53.51 0.04 dent Bruce Rockowitz told reporters last month, 16.50 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 6113535 9.54 0.09 24.00 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 15.0 2034734 9.74 0.24 according to a published report. The company re- 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 16.0 3518869 16.58 0.75 2.39 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 5650 0.35 -0.05 cently held a stock sale that raised $345.8 million to 16.32 6.66 DSW (DSW) 22.0 1909633 11.53 0.16 8.08 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 2238174 7.66 0.73 be used for business expansion and general work- 16.67 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 31612 15.12 -1.38 30.40 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.8 1866467 29.81 2.59 ing capital. 8.72 0.24 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 2154847 0.48 0.00 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 803463 37.70 0.90 21.79 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 556311 7.13 0.08 17.86 4.22 Syms (SYMS) - 128190 7.11 0.31 54.75 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 18.9 5587626 33.72 0.64 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 6965727 5.01 1.66 WEEKLY 35.00 18.43 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.5 17419362 30.86 0.59 6.99 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 31118 2.37 -0.36 12.43 3.42 Finish Line (FINL) 113.1 3663198 7.82 0.91 3.20 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 9.4 297300 2.27 -0.03 CHANGE WWD 33.36 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 12.6 3004414 23.95 1.61 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 22.9 4851292 33.29 0.93 ENDING 1.92 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 21250 0.71 -0.02 59.55 25.00 Target (TGT) 14.3 58531312 40.49 1.19 ( june 5 ) INDEX 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 33.6 2110042 13.86 1.03 0.81 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 71440 0.77 -0.02 % 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:LN) - 79294 59.50 -9.00 92.35 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 10896562 27.67 2.93 20.80 9.41 Gap (GPS) 12.6 67615598 16.63 -1.22 5.00 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 53414 3.81 -0.14 Gainers Change Composite 42.43 0.24 General Growth (GGP) 10.5 0 1.05 0.00 48.23 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 21.1 16421736 29.76 1.39 G-III Apparel 61.29 790.03 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 3.9 2210752 25.47 -0.32 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 21.3 2123214 14.91 0.53 Talbots 49.55 23.00 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 1688526 10.79 4.10 37.52 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 14.8 35580498 30.52 1.01 Casual Male 42.86 29.90 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 16.0 7193486 16.09 -0.36 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 15.1 245688 41.28 1.51 Birks & Mayors 35.42 13.46 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 1753125 3.52 0.76 31.82 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 12.8 2731563 23.65 0.59 38.15 15.32 G&K (GKSR) - 610731 23.68 2.24 20.53 1.01 Tween Brands (TWB) - 1852424 5.47 0.20 Coldwater Creek 31.58 45.15 10.26 Guess (GES) 11.9 14749668 28.60 2.78 43.52 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 32.1 2672053 25.19 0.65 45.90 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 12.0 5197648 37.29 0.44 5.43 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 923855 1.60 0.05 Decliners Change 9.00 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 36375 2.85 0.20 33.11 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 4732172 24.28 0.68 NexCen -20.00 33.91 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 23.7 6022626 18.08 1.18 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 19.7 25403389 21.26 0.84 Children’s Place -14.62 0.53 0.01 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 1011311 0.03 0.00 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 11.9 6444286 58.76 1.94 Tandy Brands -13.19 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 20.0 10455837 361.50 1.00 28.88 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 21.4 1346210 13.32 -0.35 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 34.1 621130 93.99 -0.67 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.0 96963630 51.07 1.33 French Connection * -13.14 +24.83 16.54 1.40 HSN (HSNI) - 1575309 11.77 0.47 53.89 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 24.0 6779883 35.57 3.97 Sport-Haley -12.50 13.87 4.61 Hot Topic (HOTT) 14.3 10473572 7.31 0.10 40.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 11.7 14850216 16.02 0.14 19.68 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 12830392 16.31 0.11 5.54 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 12.2 11109956 3.37 0.22 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 17.95 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 13.7 11051425 15.39 -0.80 41.99 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 20.8 102813 25.54 1.51 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 16.0 8685732 32.27 0.45 29.45 13.15 Wolverine (WWW) 12.8 2061282 21.00 1.19 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 17.41 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 12.7 420877 8.41 0.02 30.89 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 3505972 4.05 0.15 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 22.46 4.80 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 21.1 2170262 9.40 0.48 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 8, 2009 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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CUSTOMER SERVICE REP SALES ASSISTANT Midtown importer seeks bright indiv. Alexis Bittar Inc is looking for a sales w/ customer service exp. to process assistant to offer operational support to Wholesale Department Store Senior We are interested in PATTERNS, SAMPLES, orders, pick tickets, allocate orders Sales Executive. Candidate must have PRODUCTIONS CFO & assist customers and sales reps. 3 years experience in wholesale/retail Buying Surplus Fabrics & Stock jewelry industry. Please send cover lots irrespective of quantity. Contact All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Large, privately held apparel company has an immediate Exp w/ imports, suppliers, customs, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. letter with salary requirements, and us: 646.642.3002 / [email protected] opportunity for a Chief Financial Officer reporting directly to & freight a plus. Must be familiar resume to: [email protected] Patterns, Samples, the President. The CFO is responsible for the day-to-day with Microsoft Office & Excel. Productions, Cutting financial operations of the company. The candidate must Good salary, benefits & bonuses! Any styles. Fine, fast work. have strong financial and managerial skills, have extensive Sales Key Account Exec. $$ Open. Cur- Call Lucy 212-840-1136 E-mail: [email protected] rent experience in junior cut and sew experience in financial planning and budgeting, and knowl- knit sweaters. Well financed established Spaces PATTERNS, SAMPLES, edge of working with a factor. The Company offers a Midtown co. competitive compensation package. Please submit resumes Junior/Girls Designer [email protected] 973-564-9236 PRODUCTIONS to: [email protected], on behalf of the Company. Moderate priced Brand denim Co seeks Full service shop to the trade. exp’d junior/girls bottoms designer. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Must have previous work exp in juniors/ SALESPERSON Accounts Receivable/Credit Assist to $40K . Designer $165-190K. Current exp in girls moderate denim market & ability NYC based for closeout on mens, boys, COMMERCIAL Min 1-2 years exp in credit dealing designer market required. Must have to create product package. Knowledge womens & girls highly rated company w/factor disputes, returns, POD’s, etc. European sensibility and hang with of non-denim fabric and must know looking for salesperson. Candidate REAL ESTATE Middlesex County, NJ. Prada, Balmain, Marni, Martin Mangela, how to use illustrator & Adobe. Email: must have knowledge & experience in [email protected] 973-564-9236 etc. Tailored clothing, casual career. Refined [email protected] this field. Kindly send resume by fax taste. To design for bridge market. # 212-819-9268 or e-mail to: [email protected] 973-564-9236 Production Sourcing Manager $100-120K [email protected] BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Chief Financial Officer (CFO) to Current exp with an $80 mil vol min Financially strong apparel Co. is seek- $175K. Current exp in fashion or acces- kidswear co. required. Sourcing world- ing individuals or companies with an sory co. req. Exp in licensing, royalties, wide. Exp approvals for licensed exisiting business looking to cut over- dealing with factors. Supervise 1 con- product. Large Midtown co. head and increase profits. Excellent troller plus 4 others. Strong manager Factory Plant Manager Assist. $40- [email protected] 973-564-9236 opportunity to grow the sales in your needed. 100 mill vol private co. Midtown. 50K. Current exp in men’s or women’s Showrooms & Lofts business while we provide financing, [email protected] 973-564-9236 shirts required. Must have supervised minimum 20 individuals. NJ location SRI SEARCH INC. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS EDI, back office, distribution and PERMANENT / FREELANCE Great ’New’ Office Space Avail showroom. Please fax correspondence [email protected] 973-564-9236 Credit Analyst, South Hackensack, NJ: 212-465-8300 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 to 201-871-9790 or email: Allen Platt / Jennifer Glenn [email protected] Analyze paying habits of customers Retail Store Manager $100 - 120K + who are delinquent in payment of bills [email protected] / [email protected] bonus. Must have current exp in and recommends actions. Evaluate Internal Auditor, South Hackensack, NJ: better/expensive mens suit store. Exp in de - customer records and recommends that Conduct audit assess effectiveness of veloping new stores. Will become director. account be closed, credit limit reduced or controls, accuracy of financial records, Midtown. $3,000 men’s suits, etc extended, or collection attempted, and efficiency. Examine records of depart- [email protected] 973-564-9236 based on sales data, payment history ment and interview workers to detect and purchase activity of customer. Use and control frauds and to ensure recording extensively Aria systems, Business of transactions and compliance with Objects and Microsoft Excel to reconcile laws and regulations. Inspect accounting and compare invoices and accounts receiv- systems to determine their efficiency ables, run aging reports, analyze customer and review records pertaining to material credit history and pay trends, and give assets. Prepare reports of findings for recommendations for future orders Management. Mastering Aria software: from customers. Require BBA degree for downloading trial balances and NATIONAL SALES MANAGER majoring in Business Administration. For- statements and running audit tests. Better designer brand is seeking a eign education equivalence is acceptable. Balance sheet, Income Statement and qualified National Sales Manager to Mon-Fri, 9 am to 5 pm, 40 hr/wk @ $27.00 statement of cash flows, and the ability run major department store & special- pr/hr. fax resume to LK @ 201 641 0666. to run various reports under Aria for ty store business. Minimum of 7 years the daily operations reports. Require experience & must have existing rela- BBA and commercial Science degree tionships in the industry. This job Designer $100 - 125K. Min 5 years cur- entails manaing a national sales team. rent exp in young men’s contemporary majoring in Auditing. Foreign education equivalence is acceptable. 24 months Merchandising skills required. Knowl- Accessories Sales Executive sportswear, woven & knits, non-denim edge of retail math required. Dynamic Well Connected to Mass and Mid Tier and denim. Interpret trends for Ross exp req’d in job offer. Mon-Fri, 9 am to 5 pm, 40 hr/wk @ $ 25.00 pr/hr. Fax resume & fast paced environment. Full health Management: Please Call: 267-671-2130 Stores, Marmax, JC Penney, etc market. benefits. Fax: 212-869-5965 [email protected] 973-564-9236 to LK @ 201 641 0666. intimates Ensure Market S WWWeekeeee kk SSuccessSS uucccceess ss dnar B r u ffoorrfor YYoouYour r BBrandrand PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY

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