Check in the Season, See Pages 6 To8
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Page 1 Monday s s FASHION: RETAIL: Pringle details Miley new growth Cyrus plans, page 5. FINANCIAL: helped Tommy Wal-Mart Hilfiger’s celebrate s a big year, sales leap, SECTION II: page 3. page 3. s WWDTrends Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 8, 2009 • $3.00 WAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearwDMONdAY Check In Stella McCartney played with shape and volume for resort, creating silhouettes with a distinctive appeal. Here, her little checked minidress, fastened by snaps, with the freshness of a picnic in the country. For more on the season, see pages 6 to 8. Jewelry’s New Mind-set: Buying for Celebration Rather Than Indulgence By Sophia Chabbott LAS VEGAS — The paradigms are shifting in the fine jewelry sector. Out is the indulging self-purchasing consumer looking to drape herself in gold, diamond and gemstone jewelry for fashion’s sake. In is a new era of purchasing from the heart: birthdays, anniversaries, graduations and the like. Jewelry brands are banking on special occasion purchasing to keep them afloat in these rocky times. Mother’s Day marked a turn for the better for jewelry sales that have, like other luxury categories, taken a beating since the stock market tanked last fall. Retailers and company executives were pleased, if a bit surprised, at the uptick in sales starting in mid-April. See Jewelers, Page10 PHOTO BY BY TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY 3x14 (left) WWD.COM WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY ™ FASHION 6 Stella McCartney mixed the whimsical and the sophis- A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based ticated for resort, while Roberto Cavalli channeled an on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated Eighties joie de vivre. GENERAL The paradigms are shifting in the fine jewelry sector, as TO HAVE AND TO HOLD 1 the self-indulging consumer steps aside for a new era of Cotton Weds Eco- and Wallet-Friendly Bridal Wishes buying from the heart. 3 Tommy Hilfiger saw a 19.4 percent rise in group sales to $2.27 billion in the year ended March 31, on gains in Before the tiers of fondant cake are sliced, or “I’m finding that even if it’s not on a bride’s mind Europe and North America. the wedding couple shares the first dance, there is that when she’s looking for her gown, she often just enchanted moment when the bride first appears at responds to the look and feel of cotton,” Pettibone 5 New Pringle ceo Mary-Adair Macaire aims to honor the the end of the aisle. says. “My brides always comment on how soft and brand’s heritage while keeping it relevant and fine-tuning These days, amid environmental and economic comfortable the gown is. Sometimes they don’t even its distribution. concerns, not to mention a growing desire for outdoor realize it is cotton until they try it on. I always say EYE being beautiful is our first priority for a bride, but if weddings, many a bride is making her entrance in a Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy made a visit to she is comfortable too, that is cotton gown. 4 London last week, cohosting a dinner with Kate “One client of mine who a great bonus.” Kate Bosworth Bosworth at Harvey Nichols’ restaurant. in Rodarte. lives here in Florida was going “I’m finding that even if it’s not A light, breezy gown made home to Puerto Rico to be from the sustainable fiber WWD Trends is included as a Section II in this issue. on a bride’s mind when she’s looking married on the beach, and is a natural for an outdoor Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................15 for her gown, she often just responds even though she’s financially wedding, especially in the TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS comfortable, she wanted a to the look and feel of cotton.” summer when breathability is [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. swiss dotted gown,” says Judy – Claire Pettibone, designer key. Thread’s current collection WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 includes three different FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Ferrara, owner of The Dressing VOLUME 197, NO. 118. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with Room in St. Petersburg, FL. varieties for bridal: seersucker, one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division “For the bride who chooses swiss dot and sateen, with a of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services cotton over another fabric, it’s a lifestyle preference.” new cotton group being added in October. provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage Most weddings are held in what can be the very Another trend in weddings this year: keeping paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. warm month of June, so cotton’s cooling comfort costs down. The Wedding Report, a research firm, Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES makes it an attractive option for brides looking to estimates the industry will reach $57 billion this TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS year, a drop from $60 billion in 2008. The firm also CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA beat the heat. According to the Cotton Incorporated 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a full 76% of women will expects the average wedding dress in the U.S. to drop on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. not sacrifice their comfort for fashion, an axiom that to $841 this year, versus $916 in 2008. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online could very well carry over to bridal attire. Among “For the past ten or so years, weddings have been at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services 25-to-34 year olds, 70% eschew discomfort, and the about excess and over-the-top luxury,” Pettibone says. that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please figure jumps to 81% among those 35-to-55. “The mood now seems to have become quieter, with advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, Chris Kole, designer of The Cotton Bride couture more concerns about over-spending and waste.” UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR collection, says silk is so commonplace in bridal Over half of her collection is cotton. “It’s a ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY that his cloth of choice has become that of non- more affordable option than other natural fibers,” WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE conformists, too. Pettibone adds. “Most of our cotton gowns are ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. “Our brides tend to be free-spirited, down-to- $1,600 to $2,100, on up to $3,900 for some of our earth, young-at-heart, and very comfortable in their most popular styles. Gowns using silk and other own skin,” Kole says. “A bride who chooses cotton fabrics range from $3,200 to $10,000.” DAILY Man, you guys like to does so against a considerable amount of established While these price tags are comparable to designer “ norm and tradition. Brides who are able to rise above gowns, more moderately priced styles are available QUOTE get up early. I hear they’re these preconceived notions discover that cotton, at places like J. Crew, which carries about a half- still sleeping over at Target. which comes in an infinite number of varieties, is dozen models. perfectly suited for bridal gowns as it is light, airy Saving money is on almost every bride’s mind — Ben Stiller on the 7 a.m. start of the Wal-Mart annual meeting. Page” 3. and extremely these days. Though comfortable,” Kole How Well Do The Following Attributes just 25% females COMING THIS WEEK r e p o r t t o t h e adds. Describe Apparel Made From Cotton? MONDAY: Quiksilver Inc. reports first-quarter sales and earnings. Kole says that Monitor that they second-quarter sales and Female 13-24 25-34 35-54 since he introduced are very/somewhat earnings.