A Dramatic Shift in Shape Is Taking Place in Men's Wear with The
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Fashion. Beauty. Business. STILL HIS OWN MAN AUG Paul Smith defies 2015 No. 4 gravity with his signature mix of art and commerce. p. 34 GOING BACKSTAGE Bedlam and anticipation: behind the curtain at the men’s shows. p. 20 ANDROGYNY RIGHT NOW The latest iteration of genderless style is skewing younger. p. 48 JUST RELAX JUST COLLECTIONS Special JustIssue Relax A dramatic shift in shape “If you keep blowing up a balloon, eventually it will burst.” it will burst.” eventually up a balloon, blowing keep “If you is taking place in men’s wear with the return of the Eighties oversize and slouchy silhouette. SIR PAUL SMITH SIR PAUL US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 A NDREW LAUREN F ILMMAKER R ALPH L AUREN . COM Backstage at Edward Nardoza Richard Chai. EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski BUREAU CHIEF, LONDON Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, MILAN Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, LOS ANGELES Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior, Jayme Cyk DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman Ellen Thomas NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, Kayana Cordwell, Milton Dixon, Emily Mercer PARIS, EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua Going The Fountain SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra Backstage 20 Of Youth 48 DESIGNER Robyn Boehler Rehearsals, first looks, The Millennial customers’ DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY bedlam and anticipation acceptance of gender PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand behind the curtain. nonconformity is having PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene a dramatic impact on ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown fashion. PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor Minding Loose Change 52 PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Thomas Iannaccone The Store 34 After a decade of COPYDESK In a town famous for ultraslim proportions and tight, form-fitting cuts, it’s COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas struggling design talent, COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Spring Collections 2016 Spring Collections Paul Smith has defied time to relax with a fresh, Maxine Wally gravity with his signature slouchy silhouette. PREPRESS PRODUCTION mix of art and commerce. DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli • 38 The top 10 collections • 40 Best hair, shoes and socks ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer • 42 Killer accessories • 44 Model Call • 45 Report Card DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton • 46 The new crop of designers • 64 Inspiration points PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni Photograph by ELI SCHMIDT Contents Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER Agenda ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Tina Schissel Fashion 10 Beauty 14 Retail 16 REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES Three years after taking his British perfumer Lyn Harris is Are wild stock-market swings WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren company private, Kenneth Cole back in the fragrance business the new normal? +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri is re-energizing his business with scents that follow the fashion +39-02-722-33602 . Fashion Briefs seasons . Beauty Briefs ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Singer-songwriter Ruby Amanfu Stephanie George PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore “I wanted to be extremely comfortable FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer with being vulnerable.” DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Eye, Arts & Culture, page 18 WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC DEPARTMENTS ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske 8 Social Studies CHAIRMAN & CEO The best and worst in social media, VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne what’s trending, whom to follow. EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough 18 Eye BUSINESS AFFAIRS SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault • Arts & Culture Country Strong: Ruby Amanfu BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT is not your average Nashville success story. GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene • Report Card Grades of the week, as the summer SVP HUMAN RESOURCES semester winds down. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West 66 Bridget Foley’s Diary Report Card: VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen New Work Order: The workplace environment Zac Efron and DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Emily Ratajkowski DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci is changing dramatically. CONTROLLER Young Ko get their marks. SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, Derek Ramsey ON THE COVER Lanvin’s wool and viscose blazer, Dries Van DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko Noten’s cotton tank top and Duckie Brown’s cotton pants. Louis DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Vuitton scarf; Michael Kors sandals; Paul Smith belt; Gucci ring; DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Karen Karch rings. PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID URBANKE & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Aramis Miranda-Reyes WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2015 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 210, NO. 10. Wednesday, August, 26, 2015. WWD (USPS 689-960, ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, with one additional issue in February, March, June, October, November and December, and two IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber additional issues in April and August by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. 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