. Beauty. Business. STILL HIS OWN MAN AUG Paul Smith defies 2015 No. 4 gravity with his signature mix of art and commerce. p. 34 GOING BACKSTAGE Bedlam and anticipation: behind the curtain at the men’s shows. p. 20 ANDROGYNY RIGHT NOW The latest iteration of genderless style is skewing younger. p. 48 JUST RELAX

COLLECTIONS Special JustIssue Relax A dramatic shift in shape

“If you keep blowing up a balloon, eventually it will burst.” is taking place in men’s wear with the return of the Eighties oversize and slouchy silhouette. SIR PAUL SMITH

US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 A NDREW LAUREN F ILMMAKER R ALPH L AUREN . COM Backstage at Edward Nardoza Richard Chai. EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR

John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015

MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE SENIOR EDITORS, FINANCIAL Arnold J. Karr, Vicki M. Young ASSOCIATE EDITOR Lorna Koski BUREAU CHIEF, Samantha Conti BUREAU CHIEF, Luisa Zargani BUREAU CHIEF, Marcy Medina ASIAN EDITOR Amanda Kaiser BUREAU CHIEF, WASHINGTON Kristi Ellis SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Bobbi Queen ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jenny B. Fine SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIALTY RETAIL Sharon Edelson SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET Julie Naughton BEAUTY EDITOR SENIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Jessica Iredale SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR Roxanne Robinson SENIOR MARKET EDITOR Mayte Allende EYE EDITORS Taylor Harris, Erik Maza MEN’S SENIOR EDITOR Jean E. Palmieri FASHION DIRECTOR Alex Badia MEN’S MARKET EDITOR Luis Campuzano MEN’S REPORTER Aria Hughes MARKET EDITORS FINANCIAL NEWS AND ANALYSIS Debra Borchardt ACCESSORIES Lauren McCarthy, Misty White Sidell BEAUTY Molly Prior, Jayme Cyk DIGITAL Rachel Strugatz READY-TO-WEAR, Bobbi Queen FURS & INNERWEAR FASHION READY-TO-WEAR & SPORTSWEAR NEWS Rosemary Feitelberg MEDIA Alexandra Steigrad READY-TO-WEAR AND Kristi Garced SPORTSWEAR FASHION EYE Ally Betker, Leigh Nordstrom CORRESPONDENTS LONDON Nina Jones LONDON, EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lorelei Marfil LOS ANGELES Khanh T.L. Tran, Kari Hamanaka MILAN, FASHION AND NEWS Alessandra Turra NEW YORK, EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS William Cotto, Tara Bonet-Black, Kelsi Zimmerman Ellen Thomas NEW YORK, FASHION ASSISTANTS Andrew Shang, Ashley Davis, Kayana Cordwell, Milton Dixon, Emily Mercer , EUROPEAN BEAUTY EDITOR Jennifer Weil PARIS, SENIOR FASHION EDITOR Laurent Folcher PARIS, SENIOR BUSINESS NEWS EDITOR Joelle Diderich PARIS, GENERAL ASSIGNMENT Paulina Szmydke REPORTER, NEWS PARIS, EDITORIAL AND WEB ASSISTANT Anne-Aymone Gheerbrant WEB EDITOR, EUROPE Laure Guilbault SAN FRANCISCO, TECHNOLOGY Maghan McDowell DESIGN DEPARTMENT CREATIVE DIRECTOR Nick Mrozowski ART DIRECTOR Geraldson Chua Going The Fountain SENIOR DESIGNER Christa Guerra Backstage 20 Of Youth 48 DESIGNER Robyn Boehler Rehearsals, first looks, The Millennial customers’ DESIGNER Jewelyn Butron PHOTOGRAPHY bedlam and anticipation acceptance of gender PHOTO DIRECTOR Ash Barhamand behind the curtain. nonconformity is having PHOTO EDITOR Jenna Greene a dramatic impact on ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Katrina Brown fashion. PHOTO STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO MANAGER Eileen Tsuji PHOTO STUDIO ASSISTANT Emily Taylor Minding Loose Change 52 PHOTOGRAPHERS George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, The Store 34 After a decade of Thomas Iannaccone COPYDESK In a town famous for ultraslim proportions and tight, form-fitting cuts, it’s COPY CHIEF Maureen Morrison-Shulas struggling design talent, COPY EDITORS Danielle Gilliard, David Podgurski, Spring Collections 2016 Spring Collections Paul Smith has defied time to relax with a fresh, Maxine Wally gravity with his signature slouchy silhouette. PREPRESS PRODUCTION mix of art and commerce. DIGITAL IMAGING Alex Sharfman PREPRESS ASSEMBLY David Lee Chin WWD.COM SITE DIRECTOR Michelle Preli • 38 The top 10 collections • 40 Best hair, shoes and socks ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR Kristen Tauer • 42 Killer accessories • 44 Model Call • 45 Report Card DIGITAL DAILY DESIGNER Ryan Richmond WEB PRODUCER Robert Tutton • 46 The new crop of designers • 64 Inspiration points PUBLIC RELATIONS PR COORDINATOR Christina Mastroianni

Photograph by ELI SCHMIDT Contents

Paul Jowdy SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER

Agenda ADVERTISING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Pamela Firestone INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR, Renee Moskowitz RMM MEDIA EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MEN’S Brett Mitchell BEAUTY DIRECTOR Carly Gresh AMERICAN FASHION & Jennifer Petersen LUXURY DIRECTOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Samantha Hartje ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Amy Keiser Shannon Fitzgerald SENIOR CLIENT SERVICES MANAGER Joanna Block CLIENT SERVICES MANAGERS Annie Belfield Tina Schissel Fashion 10 Beauty 14 Retail 16 REGIONAL OFFICES/INTERNATIONAL OFFICES Three years after taking his British perfumer Lyn Harris is Are wild stock-market swings WEST COAST DIRECTOR Jill Biren company private, Kenneth Cole back in the fragrance business the new normal? +1-323-965-7283 EUROPEAN ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Giulia Squeri is re-energizing his business with scents that follow the fashion +39-02-722-33602 . . . Fashion Briefs seasons . . . Beauty Briefs ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, ITALY Olga Kouznetsova +39-02-722-33603 SENIOR SALES COORDINATOR, ITALY Emanuela Altimani EUROPEAN DIRECTOR, FRANCE Valérie Deschamps-Wright +33-1-44-51-07-611 EUROPEAN SALES REPRESENTATIVE Marjorie Thomas +33-240-31-6541 ADVERTISING ASSISTANT, FRANCE Pascale Rajac DIGITAL/MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES MARKETING DIRECTOR Shannon Nobles CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING Cass Spencer DIGITAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Cassie Leventhal DIGITAL SALES PLANNER Suzette Minetti AUDIENCE MARKETING VP & SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Ellen Dealy CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR Peggy Pyle SENIOR DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Janet Menaker & STRATEGIC DEVELOPMENT PLANNING & OPERATIONS DIRECTOR John Cross SENIOR DIRECTOR, Randi Segal INSTITUTIONAL SALES SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER Suzanne Berardi SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Tamra Febesh ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Lauren Busch PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kevin Hurley PRODUCTION MANAGER Providence Rao SUMMITS & EVENTS VICE PRESIDENT, NEW VENTURES & GM Amber Mundinger EXECUTIVE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Mary Ann Bacher DIRECTOR, ATTENDEE SALES Kim Mancuso SPONSORSHIP DIRECTOR Alexis Coyle DIRECTOR OF Amelia Ewert EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC Singer-songwriter Ruby Amanfu Stephanie George PRESIDENT AND VICE CHAIRMAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR OF Michael Atmore “I wanted to be extremely comfortable FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT FINANCE DIRECTOR Devon Beemer with being vulnerable.” DIRECTOR OF EUROPEAN OPERATIONS Ron Wilson Eye, Arts & Culture, page 18

WWD AND FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING LLC DEPARTMENTS ARE DIVISIONS OF PENSKE MEDIA CORPORATION Jay Penske 8 Social Studies CHAIRMAN & CEO The best and worst in social media, VICE CHAIRMAN Gerry Byrne what’s trending, whom to follow. EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, George Grobar STRATEGY AND OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, Paul Woolnough 18 Eye BUSINESS AFFAIRS • Arts & Culture Country Strong: Ruby Amanfu SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, Craig Perreault BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT is not your average Nashville success story. GENERAL COUNSEL & Todd Greene • Report Card Grades of the week, as the summer SVP HUMAN RESOURCES semester winds down. VICE PRESIDENT, CREATIVE Nelson Anderson VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE Ken Delacazar VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES Tarik West 66 Bridget Foley’s Diary Report Card: VICE PRESIDENT, ENGINEERING Gabriel Koen New Work Order: The workplace environment Zac Efron and DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS Lauren Gullion Emily Ratajkowski DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Joni Antonacci is changing dramatically. CONTROLLER Young Ko get their marks. SENIOR PROGRAM MANAGERS Christina Yeoh, Derek Ramsey ON THE COVER Lanvin’s wool and viscose blazer, Dries Van DIRECTOR, ADVERTISING OPERATIONS Eddie Ko Noten’s cotton tank top and Duckie Brown’s cotton pants. Louis DIRECTOR OF TALENT ACQUISITION Andy Limpus Vuitton scarf; Michael Kors sandals; Paul Smith belt; Gucci ring; DIRECTOR OF IT OPERATIONS Rick Gascon, Karen Karch rings. PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID URBANKE & PRODUCTION Matt Williamson SENIOR IT ANALYSTS Carl Foner Aramis Miranda-Reyes WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2015 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 210, NO. 10. Wednesday, August, 26, 2015. WWD (USPS 689-960, ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, with one additional issue in February, March, June, October, November and December, and two IT ANALYSTS Don Gerber additional issues in April and August by Fairchild Publishing, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave, New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage Fred Baez paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. TO CONTACT WWD Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is unde- EDITORIAL +1-212-256-8130 liverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of ADVERTISING +1-212-256-8102 order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspon- CIRCULATION +1-515-237-3650 dence to WWD, 475 5th Ave, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail FFM_Reprints@pmc. com or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLIC- ITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

6 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Social Studies EDITED BY KRISTEN TAUER THE WEEK IN SOCIAL MEDIA Best Worst

“Real Man #kawaii” The point must be lost in translation. No one “likes” an injury. Get better soon!

@lenadunham @lindseyvonn Lena Dunham, Actress Lindsey Vonn, Alpine Ski Racer

Stephen Dweck has been getting up close and personal with the public art in Times Square.

@stephendweck Stephen Dweck, Jewelry designer

“I love it and I can’t wait to see it ” Olivier Rousteing offered Alessandra Am- “#Girlsnightout #FBF #FlashBackFriday Nicki Minaj has expressed public support for this suggestive brosio the ultimate icon of the summer as a #Afro #70’s @cturlington miss our days of wax figure at Madame Tussauds in Las Vegas — but why not token of his friendship: a Minion figurine. dress up and fun . Time to do again. ” show a successful woman standing on her own two feet?

@alessandraambrosio @iamnaomicampbell @nickiminaj Alessandra Ambrosio, Model , Model Nicki Minaj, Rapper

Trending Let’s Follow #StraightOutta: . . . Box office hit “Straight Outta Compton” has inspired a social media meme — and also stirred up some old controversy for producer and former N.W.A. member Dr. Dre. The biopic, which focuses on the seminal rap group’s beginnings, has been criticized for glossing over Dr. Dre’s past abuse of several women. The rapper and entrepreneur has since issued a public apology through The New York Times.

DESIGNER INSPIRATION NEXT ACT @binxwalton @house_of_holland @tyrabanks @italozucchelli Creative director, Calvin @emrata

Klein Collection Mens Actress/model Boye Tyler by Eichner; Emily Ratajkowski Steve by photo Zucchelli Italo ONLY AT MACY’S 8 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Follow Us @WWD AND MACYS.COM 8311='31 ARMANI.COM/ATRIBUTE FashionAgenda EDITED BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT

Kenneth Cole Productions’ chief executive officer Marc Schneider (seated) with founder Kenneth Cole.

hanges are afoot at Kenneth Cole Produc- Kenneth Cole tions for fall. The 32-year-old acc– ess ories and apparel firm, which after an 18-year run as a public Reactivates Ccompany went private Three years after taking his in 2012, is starting to make some noise again. company private, the designer is Cole has redesigned its logo and Web site, MATT BOMER, CHEN KUN, DAN STEVENS will launch a multimedia ad campaign called inin advancing his business model. “Courageous Class,” has elevated its women’s By LISA LOCKWOOD and men’s sportswear and accessories offer- ings for fall and will open a new prototype store on Bond and Bowery on the Lower East Side of Manhattan on Sept. 15, which ►

10 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by SASHA MASLOV incorporates both omnichannel strategies and is 50/50. At wholesale, Cole’s footwear is four to FashionBriefs social initiatives benefiting the neighborhood. five times the size of the apparel business, but in In a recent interview at the company’s head- its own freestanding stores, apparel sales are equal quarters, founder, executive chairman and chief to footwear/accessories, Schneider said. creative officer Kenneth Cole and chief executive The new 2,500-square-foot store set to open on officer Marc Schneider described what prompted Bond and Bowery will feature men’s and women’s the rebranding of the business, which generates $1 sportswear and accessories. “It’s going to be a very billion in retail sales worldwide across all licenses curated shop,” Schneider said. “Some of the older GOLDSCHMIED ADRIANO AG and product categories. stores were 5,000 to 6,000 square feet.” Cole said he had an epiphany a few years Physically, customers will have access to select ago and decided that “in an effort to revitalize products, added Cole, but virtually they’ll have and re-energize and make the access to all the brand’s prod- company relevant again, that ucts. There will be a touch we needed to make some sig- table, iPads for product sto- nificant changes.” It became “What we found rytelling, a MemoryMirror, apparent, he added, that all social engagement and free the things the brand needed [from research] was Wi-Fi. The store will also host to be doing, it couldn’t do as shoe drives and other initia- a public company. that the consumer tives throughout the year, as “You can’t do it in a public is not aware of well as art exhibits from local arena and can’t do it with artists in the neighborhood. Marc Fisher, the spotlight of disclosure what we made.” “If Bowery and Bond goes Karlie Kloss and scrutiny. [We] needed to Marc Schneider, Kenneth Cole Productions as anticipated, we’ll open and the new become a non-public com- more,” said Schneider of the Yale boot. pany,” said Cole, as major new model. Other cities being strategic changes such as store considered: Los Angeles; NEW SHOES closings and the elimination Nashville; Chicago; Austin, Making His Marc of certain categories might not Tex., and Washington, D.C. Marc Fisher has a intended to empower sit too well with Wall Street. Also new is the compa- O new footwear brand — various role models. Cole thus set out to make ny’s re-engineered Web site. and a social media- One of them is Karlie the retail experience more It was designed by Cole’s driven platform to go Kloss, who’s featured relatable to a new generation in-house team and is powered with it. This week, he in the brand’s fall cam- of customers. It also enhanced by Demandware. Features introduced Marc Fisher paign and is the founder the user experience on its include the ability to pre-or- LTD, a line separate of Kode with Karlie, a Web site, and created a fall ad der, sort by color and size and from his namesake scholarship program to teach young women campaign that speaks to social show what’s trending. “You collection. “A lifetime of knowledge and experi- how to write computer issues for which Cole is well can get updates on what peo- ence,” the designer said code through the Flat- known — but this time puts ple are looking at while you’re of his impetus to start iron School. For every the spotlight on the product. shopping,” Schneider said. the second brand. Instagram or Twitter “What we found [from The company updated its The debut fall post with the hashtag, research] was that the con- logo as well. Designed by collection features a the brand will donate $1 sumer is not aware of what Redscout, it features Kenneth range of pumps, flats to Kloss’ program. we made. The whole rebrand- Cole in clean block letters. “It and boots, priced from Additionally, Kloss $140 to $329, and will be chose three styles from ing started with simplifying connotes functionality and available online and at the fall line — the Netty, the brand and focusing on industrial from a design stand- Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Tammy and Yale — and the product,” said Schneider, point,” said the ceo. Taylor and Nordstrom. for every purchase of who was previously group Since Schneider’s arrival in “I don’t want to make those styles, $20 will president of Heritage Brands February, Cole said he has shoes that you see next be donated. “There’s at PVH Corp., and before that been able to “focus on creative spring and say, ‘Why so much you can do senior vice president and an pursuits, working more closely did I buy those things?’” with the ability to Fisher said. “The sim- code,” Kloss said. “You officer of Timberland. with the design team.” Prod- plicity of fashion makes don’t always realize how In recent years, the com- uct-wise, the company has it interesting to me.” creative it can be — it’s pany closed a slew of under- elevated quality across cate- To commemorate the like a language….It’s performing freestanding Kenneth Cole (above) and “Courageous gories and introduced Black launch, Fisher intro- a superpower in stores and decided last year to Class” ads from the fall campaign. Label, a new capsule collec- duced #MakeYourMarc, its own way.” cease wholesaling its women’s tion of investment pieces using a philanthropic platform — LAUREN MCCARTHY sportswear collection in department and specialty high-quality fabrics. It is sold online and in top retail stores, effective this past spring. Women’s apparel accounts, generating 7 to 10 percent of the business. is now only available in the company’s freestand- The new ad campaign — backed by a budget that ing stores in the U.S. and internationally, while is 25 percent higher than a year ago, according to men’s wear is carried in stores such as Macy’s, Schneider — launches Friday in national print, out- Dillard’s, Lord & Taylor, Nordstrom, Bon-Ton door, digital and social media platforms. Shot by and Belk. Men’s and women’s footwear is sold in Glen Luchford and styled by Melanie Ward, the ads retailers that include Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Lord feature people who have overcome challenges and & Taylor and Nordstrom. pursued their dreams. They include transgender Cole has five freestanding stores in the U.S. — model Andreja Pejic, humanitarian hip-hop artist down from about 50 at its peak — and 65 outlet Rhymefest, pro-surfer-turned-activist Jon Rose,

stores. Overseas there are 100 freestanding stores, model-turned-activist Topaz Page-Green, and deaf QUOTED which are operated under license. The full-price pro soccer player Jamie Clarke. All wear Cole’s stores that remain in the U.S. are in New York’s clothes and accessories, which are the focus, while “I put my biometrics up on Grand Central Terminal (which does very well, their “story” is told in a simple, effective sentence said Cole, but whose future is questionable due to near the slogan “Look Good, For Good.” the screen. I was panicking a major construction project around the station); While Cole’s advertising has always had a social and sweating the whole SoHo; Pentagon City, Va.; Beverly Center in Los conscience, asked whether people know what the FALL 2015 Angeles, and Houston Galleria. brand stands for in terms of women’s fashion the time, so it was all up there.” AGJEANS.COM At Cole’s own retail stores, 65 percent of full- designer said, “That’s a good question. That’s been ’s David Lauren, on trying price sales are generated by men’s wear and 35 part of our struggles over the years. This campaign the new Polo Tech smart shirt while speaking

percent by women’s wear; at the outlets, the ratio does it better than we ever have before.” ■ at a luxury conference Eichner Steve by Thomas Iannaccone; Lauren Fisher and Kloss by Sasha Maslov; by Cole photograph

12 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM EDITED BY PETE BORN on her two scents: Stoned, a fragrance spiked with BeautyBriefs diamond dust, and Cosmic, a chypre with stardust. Beauty Harris said Perfumer H derives in part from her Agenda work creating bespoke fragrances. “My private cli- ents have helped me to evolve, in terms of service and uniqueness. You are highly tested by them, and HOT SELLER there is an endless quest for perfection,” she said, adding that she wanted every fragrance by Per- OAt Sephora in Times Square, Make fumer H to be something she would wear herself. Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible Cover The five seasonal fragrances embrace the basic Foundation, $43 fragrance families. For fall, there’s Cologne, a citrus , is a standout performer. scent with Haitian vetiver and a kiss of asparagus; Rose, a floral with rose absolute, carrot seed and sweet musk; Velvet, a wood family chypre with STATS oak moss, patchouli and frankincense; Leather, a fern with cardamom seed, oak moss and lavender, Social Stars and Heliotrope, a scent with orange flower, vanilla absolute and sweet musk. OThis week, L2 released its latest Video Intelligence Report. Here, its findings on the Prices range from 175 pounds, or $273 at current top four most popular and rising YouTube beauty vloggers. – JENNY B. FINE exchange, to 1,500 pounds, or $2,344, for the com- TOP BEAUTY VLOGGERS* TOP-RISING BEAUTY VLOGGERS** plete formula, and Harris plans to update that col- lection, which is for men and women, twice a year. 1. 1. The semibespoke Laboratory Editions features a series of rose scents that can be bought by the bottle and made up personally for the client or the formula can be purchased outright. Prices start at FRAGRANCE 250 pounds, or $390, and rise to 2,000 pounds, or The Celeb $3,125, for a complete formula. The bespoke service Michelle Phan Madi Bragg aka MadisenRoseBeauty1 Continuum 7.4M SUBSCRIBERS SUBSCRIBERS: 692K GROWTH: 258% yn Harris, whose fragrances starts at 15,000 pounds, or $23,443. Beauty companies just stir in her memories of her O can’t quit the celebrity 2. 2. grandparents’ house and gar- arris feels strongly about the evo- circus. den in the Scottish Highlands, lution of the fragrance business Both Coty Inc. and Eliza- has cooked up a new brand, since she began working 20 years beth Arden Inc. said they Perfumer H, based on an abid- ago. “When we first started, niche remain committed to the H underperforming celebrity ing passion for such pleasing was about creating something small smells as fruits, flowers and and beautiful — with no compromise,” she said. fragrance business during Bunny Meyer aka Grav3YardGirl Kathleen Lights L their fourth quarter earnings 4.5M SUBSCRIBERS SUBSCRIBERS: 553K GROWTH: 169% baking bread. “Today it’s exploded, and everybody wants to be calls this month. The London perfumer pioneered the use of part of this arena, build their businesses up fast On Aug. 13, Bart Becht, 3. 3. naturals at a time when the market was awash and sell them. There is a lot of sameness out there. chairman and interim chief in flashy scents and novelty bottles. She founded It’s much more a marketing thing, and it really executive officer of Coty, Miller Harris, the successful niche fragrance house, makes me sad.” whose stable of star licens- Lyn Harris in in 2000 and left at the end of 2012 after selling her On the flip side, Harris said the big brands have ees includes Beyoncé and her new perfumery. stake to NEO Investment Partners. become more “niche” in their thinking. “I abso- Jennifer Lopez, acknowl- Now she’s back, with Perfumer H, offering three lutely think we’ve inspired the bigger brands, and edged that the segment has “seen its heyday,” but told Ingrid Nilsen aka MissGlamorazzi Casey Holmes aka itsbl0ndie fragrance collections: a “ready-to-wear” line that 3.2M SUBSCRIBERS SUBSCRIBERS: 825K GROWTH: 135% that makes me happy,” said Harris, pointing to analysts, “As a result, we are follows the fashion seasons; a semibespoke col- fragrances by Chanel, Dior and Giorgio Armani’s seeing a gradual erosion of lection offering customers the chance to own the Privé collection. this business. It’s a highly 4. 4. formula, and an entirely bespoke service. “The big boys are really getting it right, and it’s profitable business because Recently, Harris, a cool bohemian with long been inspired by the smaller brands. We gave them the investments are not brown hair, sat down with WWD to discuss how a bit of a kick up the bottom.” always huge in this area….So, Return she’s evolved since selling her company. “I’ve had Those who have worked with Harris say she has it is better to keep it than to divest it.” two years to sit back and ask ‘Who am I?’ It’s an an unusual gift for distilling parts of the natural Arden, for its part, has interesting phase of life,” she said. “I’m at ease world into a bottle. “She’s an alchemist. She’s got CuteGirl Hairstyles Shaanxo worked to whittle down 3M SUBSCRIBERS SUBSCRIBERS: 1.5M GROWTH: 130% and not trying to prove anything. Perfumer H rep- an encyclopedic mind when it comes to smells,” its fragrance portfolio, Source: L2 *For Q4 2014 **Highest view growth from Q3 2014-Q4 2014 resents who I am as a perfumer and I feel totally said Azagury-Partridge. “I love sitting with Lyn with celebs including Engagement free. I think I’m ready to come out, whereas maybe in her lab. She picks things off the shelf and she , which now before I hid behind Miller Harris.” knows what they smell like on their own — and in accounts for 5 percent of Harris is one of Britain’s few master perfumers, combination. It’s quite magical.” the company’s total sales. British perfumer Lyn Harris is back in the — this time with a little help adding that the basis of the having trained at Robertet in Grasse, France. The Kristina Blahnik, chief executive officer of During its earnings call on Aug. 6, Arden reported that from The Big O. Oprah Win- collection is centered on fragrance business, with a new line of bespoke French firm also manufactures the fragrances Manolo Blahnik, recalled her own experience, its U.S.-based celebrity fra- frey’s longtime hairdresser, moisture. “All of the products Harris creates in her new 460-square-foot shop in when she and her uncle tapped Harris to create grance business continued Andre Walker, will launch his contain the moisture-en- and ready-to-wear scents that follow the London’s hip Marylebone neighborhood. limited-edition candles for the shoe designer’s to decline. Nevertheless, brand, The Andre Walker hancing mongongo oil.” The perfumer’s vision for her new brand remains pop-up at Liberty in 2011. The resulting scent was the firm said it remains Hair Gold System, on target. Prices range from $9.99 to fashion seasons. fluid, and she has no plans to wholesale it — or even Bourgeon de Rose, based around Manolo’s love of committed to the fragrance com this week and in stores $15.99. open another store. “With Miller Harris, we were roses. “There was a real honesty to Lyn’s process,” segment and has adjusted Sept. 13. — FAYE BROOKMAN By SAMANTHA CONTI always going to work with the department stores,” Blahnik said. “Lyn is able to build a fragrance its strategy accordingly by The Chicago-based introducing lower pricing for Walker first met the mega- Harris said. “With Perfumer H I don’t want to follow around narratives, concepts and individuals. Her some brands and/or more star in 1986, when he sent a mold. I just want to be the rebel I am, do what I fragrances all have a sense of heritage, an English- value-laden body sprays. her a letter noting she could feel is right. I want to be very precious about what ness about them.” Joel Ronkin, Arden’s presi- use some “hair help.” He I’m doing. I’m following my gut instinct.” Perfumer H’s apothecary-style glass bottles are all dent of global fragrances, included flowers to soften Harris is probably best known for her natural hand-blown by Michael Ruh, whose gentle, organic told analysts, “Keep in mind the message and the rest is scents, such as Citron Citron (2000) and L’Air de designs partly inspired Harris to start the new that the celebrity fragrance hair history. Winfrey called Rien (2006), which she originally created for Jane brand. The brand’s handmade gray flannel carrier category still represents HAIR CARE him and he remains her an important part of the personal stylist to this day. Birkin. Over the years, she’s also created scents bags were created by graphic designer Frith Kerr. global fragrance market. The Oprah Effect “I created the Gold System for companies including LVMH Moët Hennessy “I couldn’t go to China for a bag, I had to make it For example, it’s been 20 OTarget continues to with a formulation designed Perfumer H’s apothecary-style bottles Louis Vuitton and Marks & Spencer, and for clients myself,” said Harris, adding that personalization is percent of the U.S. mass expand its selection of hair to simplify the hair care pro- are hand-blown by Michael Ruh. Gift boxes including Amanda Harlech and Manolo Blahnik. so important to her. “Do it properly and beautifully fragrance market this past care targeted at consumers cess of coarse, kinky, curly

can be customized with gold initials. She worked with jeweler Solange Azagury-Partridge Images Jerritt Clark/Getty by Lopez Dan MacMedan/WireImage; by photograph Winfrey and really give the customer something special.” ■ year.” — MOLLY PRIOR with textured and curly hair and dry hair,” said Walker,

14 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Photographs by JAMIE STOKER WWD.COM AUGUSTMONTH 2015, No.XNo. 4 00 15 EDITED BY EVAN CLARK a lackluster back-to-school shopping season), the often-negative impact of a strong dollar, a soften- 118 Retail ing in the tourism side of business, a disappearing The WWD Global Stock Tracker Agenda middle class and stagnant wage growth are all 118 What’s been driving the composite up and down its bumpy road. influencing investment sentiment — especially in the consumer sector, which is already considered a volatile market. 117 Despite dire economic As a result, the WWD Global Stock Tracker is events in Greece, down 11 percent over the past three months with the tracker maintained a steady level. The tracker stabilized 86 of the 100 issues in the composite declining, 116 on the jobs report. while 14 have advanced. There’s also other market influencers at play. 115 Consider the Greek financial crisis, which is ongo- It got a boost on ing, and an early U.S. election cycle that features a sales gains, cast of seemingly unstable characters. Crude oil is including spending also ridiculously low, which is great for consumer 114 on apparel, but dipped from spending and textile firms using synthetics but low-volume bad for the energy sector. That segment of the profit-taking. 113 economy has created a number of higher-paying But in late July, the jobs across the U.S. over the past five years, and implications of Greece And it held steady and a troublesome until getting features households that like to spend money on 112 China market weighed dragged down things like expensive handbags, jewelry, high-end it down. by concerns watches and electronics. about the Chinese economy. All of which is creating a sense of instability 111 All magnified by dire headlines and gloomy social media posts. The result, experts say, could have a negative impact on consumer spending as the 110 INDEX MEASURE industry heads into the all-important holiday shopping season. And that, in turn, could push down fashion apparel and retail stocks even more. 109 In his weekly retail sales report, Michael P. Wrapped Niemira, chief economist of The Retail Economist LLC, said, “The recent stock market’s weakness, volatility and uncertainty bears watching as it JULY 20 JULY 25 JULY 31 AUG. 5 AUG. 10 AUG. 15 AUG. 19 potentially could negatively affect consumer demand of high-income consumers, in particular, secondary sources such as news reports — it’s curb their spending. Raising interest rates could but all consumers as well.” hard to reverse the psychological impact. Which also boost an already strong dollar, which has Scott Tuhy, vice president and senior credit is what already occurred following the Great benefited some companies while dragging down officer at Moody’s Investors Service Inc., agreed, Recession. The downturn triggered a seemingly the sales and earnings of others. and noted that the impact on shoppers really permanent shift in how and where shoppers Economists are split on whether there will depends upon their income level. “The concern spend their money. Overall, consumers are more be a rate hike when the Federal Open Markets right now is really what’s ahead for the high-end thrifty and value-driven — even as money flows Committee meets. Economic fundamentals are shopper,” Tuhy said, adding that households who back into their pockets. And they have traded strong, they note. There’s been a recovering labor might be seeing their stock portfolios erode by experiences for things to add a more meaningful market with increases in disposable income. But Up 5 or 6 percent could get nervous and pull back. dimension to their lives. the other side of the camp said real wages remain With the aspirational shopper, limited spend- Recently, though, analysts noted a shift back to stagnant, and inflation is low. And inventories are What market volatility ing may result, he said. With the middle class, buying apparel, which had suffered steep declines slowly swelling, especially at retail. means for fashion apparel a robust stock market didn’t mean much for over the past decade. Fashion trends such as boho In its most recent statement, the FOMC said the households trying to stabilize their budgets, so styling, loud prints and high-waisted bottoms as economy has expanded moderately. The housing and retail stocks. a market drop or ongoing volatility is unlikely to well as more loose and flowing silhouettes reso- market, while not robust, is on steady ground. impact spending. “The high end can spend from nated well with shoppers in recent months. And Household spending has been also expanding, but By ARTHUR ZACZKIEWICZ the portfolio, but that could change if they get denim made a comeback at the same time. Retail- at a moderate rate. “The labor market continued nervous,” Tuhy said. ers such as Nordstrom, Target and Stein Mart were to improve, with solid job gains and declining reporting upticks in apparel sales. unemployment,” the FOMC said, adding that Consumer confidence was also on the upswing, inflation continued to “run below the committee’s “The concern right now with the latest reading showing a significant gain longer-run objective, partly reflecting earlier is really what’s ahead for the in sentiment, although the survey was done prior declines in energy prices and decreasing prices to the most recent stock market decline. of non-energy imports.” high-end shopper.” So whether a return to apparel and accessories The committee said various market-based purchases is jeopardized is unclear at this point. measures of inflation compensation are low while Scott Tuhy, Moody’s Investors Service Inc. Nothing is a given under these current condi- surveys on the long-term outlook on inflation are tions. In the short term, the mood is troubling. stable. The committee said it will take a “balanced ust as fashion apparel retailing The market madness included eye-popping Economist Mike Norman told WWD that market approach consistent with its longer-run goals of was staging what looked like a declines on Friday and Monday when the Dow Lawrence White, professor of economics at volatility is likely triggering changes in the overall maximum employment and inflation of 2 percent” comeback, jittery investors came Jones Industrial Average was shredded by a total , said if consumers may feel behavior of shoppers. “I think in the short-term in deciding on the rate hike. For retail and fashion along and threw a wrench into of 1,119 points. As confusion and fear gripped the less wealthy, they are “less prepared to spend.” it could translate into consumer behavior as they apparel companies, the Fed’s apparent fence-sit- the works. market, safe havens such as gold offered no ref- Other economists and analysts have said the short- pull back,” he said. “People get more cautious ting will mean ongoing volatility to their stocks. Concerned over the global uge. By Tuesday, Chinese officials had intervened term negative impact on consumer spending when the market sells off.” For now, it may pay to be patient. Jack Klein- impact of a slowed Chinese econ- with an interest-rate cut and investors rushed caused by unpredictability in the stock market has Other economists and analysts said it was henz, chief economist at the National Retail Fed- Jomy, investors — many of whom back into markets in Asia, Europe and the U.S. a lot to do with “the headline effect.” IHS Global important to read into other economic data such eration, called for calmness. had already been reducing their But what became clear was that upward swings Insight economists said a month ago that news as the employment situation and the jobs outlook. “We’ve seen these things happen before, like in exposure to stocks and turning to cash instead and steep declines are here to stay. And China isn’t about the Greek economic crisis as well as the ini- Still, the fall season is generally a time when sell- August 2011,” Kleinhenz said. “Spending gyrated — made an historic retreat (and then a return) the only item on the menu. A stall in the growth tial stock market meltdown in China had spooked ers emerge in greater numbers, so more market a bit and uncertainty increased. I expect to see that reflects what seems like a new normal: of emerging markets, the strong possibility of a consumers abroad, and will weaken spending. plunges may occur. And then there’s the Federal more volatility, but I don’t believe we’re going to extreme market volatility. It’s like it’s raining U.S. interest-rate hike in September, a lack of a The headline effect is slowly changing con- Reserve’s meeting on Sept. 16 and 17. see a big pullback. A lot of this uncertainly came bulls and bears. strong rebound in consumer spending (typified by sumer behavior. Will the market bounce back? Higher interest rates mean businesses have to about because of the situation in China, but I think Most likely. But from a human behavior perspec- spend more while consumers would also face there’s something of an overreaction in the fear tive, once someone is traumatized — even by higher credit card rates and bank fees, which may of a global recession.” ■

16 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Illustration by OLIVER MUNDAY WWD.COM AUGUST 2015, No. 4 17 Arts & Culture BY LEIGH NORDSTROM Report Card From A to D Country Strong Ruby Amanfu From Emily Ratajkowski’s waifish frame to Zac Efron’s thick neck, a few of the best and the worst of the week.

is not your average Nashville DWe all have been DHair is perfectly DThe Goldi- DThe natural following Mr. Efron’s imperfect. Peachy dreadlocks frame hair and makeup transformation into cheeks and nude lip his face nicely while are business as a beefcake, but a are spot on. matching the gold usual for her, but success story. lean body always chain at the same apparently the DWe love this looks better in look. It’s young, time. honeymoon is over. You can take the girl out of their church choir, dad its director. clothes. Where’s the post- sporty and sexy DThe cute red Nashville, but you can’t quite take Amanfu took up formal training in nup glow? DThe printed silk and the rare display color-matching of Nashville out of the girl. music in college — first at Berklee jacquard tuxedo of a cropped top the plastic bracelet, DThe style of That’s how singer-songwriter Ruby College of Music in and later blazer feels a bit that doesn’t look T-shirt logo and the jumpsuit is Amanfu summed up her extended at . But she was too gaudy for him generic. hand wrap works, superchic and well stay in Los Angeles, where she’s eager to get her own work out and, and when paired The sailor pants turning an injury into within her comfort been living since February. while still in Boston, she self-released with the gold watch give it a playful, a fashion statement. zone. But the droopy The West Coast has its perks, she her debut, “So Now the Whole World is too much like fit and length are tomboy twist and DThe sweat denim tells WWD, but it doesn’t hold a can- Knows” in 1998. “A Night at the the whole thing pants are sad and kind of a drag. She dle to the South. Amanfu’s been steadily working Roxbury.” shows off her the statement high- needed a tailor to hem, nip and tuck. “That front porch feel is not a ever since, though she is guarded DThe precious blue ridiculous figure tops are a bit too myth,” she says warmly. “You can about her age: “I have strong feelings velvet lace-ups are without making moon boot-y — fly Also, at the risk of walk down the street and people about ageism and am passionate annoying. A white you hate her for it. away Fetty! sounding like her are hanging out and you can stop about putting full attention solely on sneaker would be We want to be her mother, stand up and talk.” the music. Our ears and our souls more youthful and friend. straight. In a city like Nashville that’s brim- know no age when we receive what less tacky. ming with striving musicians, Amanfu an artist has created.” has slowly built a following all her Over the years, she worked own. And on Aug. 28, after four al- frequently with other musicians bums and a string of high-profile col- including Sam Brooker, with whom laborations, most notably with Jack she released two EPs and an album White, she is releasing “Standing as Sam & Ruby. And she also worked Still,” an album of covers produced with the band The Duhks, which by, among others, resulted in a Grammy nomination of and the prolific for their 2006 song “Heaven’s My Daniel Lanois. Home.” In many respects, Amanfu’s rise In 2011, White enlisted her to per- D A C C+ to the top of the musical heap in the form on “,” the lead capital of country music is extraordi- single to his album “Blunderbuss.”

nary. She was raised in Accra, Ghana, “It was a vibrantly creative experi- Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic; by ston Zac Efron Emily Ratajkowski Fetty Wap Jennifer Aniston ence…[it] allowed me to continue hav- ing that freedom to be an original,” Images m McIsaac/Getty “When I become DThe woman is DThe green in his DShe’s clearly DHe has enviable she says. not afraid of a little hair matches his going for the natural curls and, comfortable with It also gave her incredible expo- hardware, but we eyes, but it isn’t a gold. The allover as we can all see, sure: White and Amanfu performed would not want to pleasant visual. A shimmer, especially perfectly straight people, all the best together at the 2013 Grammy be behind her at hair-toner treatment on the eyes, is big teeth. airport security. It’s would go a long stuff comes out Awards and, shortly after, her solo really pushing the DThe subtle pin- career kicked into gear. bold, confident and way. Also, trim “ready to party” striped suit fits him of me.” Her new album of covers was feels personal. those aggressive look. But the brows, OK for the most eyebrows; they partly inspired by a performance at DThe white heavy liner and part, although he — Ruby Amanfu a New York music festival that same asymmetric, long seem a bit too voluminous blowout should let it out an year. evening top over devilish. were done with a inch around the lead hand. and “I did a song, ‘Not Dark black pants is a DThe minimalist chest area. modern evening look is clean and Ruby Amanfu at Yet,’ at Best Fest and when I heard DThe tassel DThe bright color the 2013 Grammy that song I just felt like, ‘That’s the power combo. The modern, but on him earrings, the tie adds a pop to the Awards. one, that’s all me,’” she says. “I got draping of the shirt it feels a bit forced. gold dress cut to outfit, but a fuller up and did it and everything came ties nicely to the A simple navy tie shimmy and gold knot would be more to life.” belt on the pants. would soften the clutch show off the appropriate for his The song appears on her new She’s appropriately impact and make barrister’s wild side. size. album along with covers of Kanye flashing her abs. him more elegant. Hey, she’s in Ibiza at The outfit is all West’s “Street Lights” and Wilco’s DThe pants are too a tequila party — but confidence. “One by One.” To record it, she and fitted — mature men she looks a little like her production team decamped DLove the bronzed look better in looser a trophy wife. to a remote cabin in the woods of tribal sandal but silhouettes. DOpting for black Tennessee. buckling them over pumps over sandals “I knew I would be vulnerable,” the pants feels a of any kind, makes little dated. she says. “I wanted to be extremely no sense. until she was three, when her father, comfortable with being vulnerable. a computer programmer, moved the So I wanted to take it a step further family to Nashville for work. — what would it be like if we lived in “We could’ve lived in Germany the same space, all cooked and lived or Tennessee,” she says. “Growing together under the same roof?” up in Nashville, I got lucky to be in a In short order, the album came place where I was surrounded by together. A- C D B Blige by Christopher Polk/Getty Images for TAS; Elliott by Steve Eichner; Clooney by Dani Gorino/REX Shutterstock; Posada by Ji by Posada Dani Gorino/REX Shutterstock; by Eichner; Clooney Steve by Elliott TAS; Images for Polk/Getty Christopher Blige by music.” “When I become comfortable with Images; Ani Eisman/Getty Matthew by Images; Wap Hiatt/Getty Timothy by Barry Images; Ratajkowski King/Getty by photograph Efron It was for the best. Music runs in people, all the best stuff comes out Mary J. Blige Sam Elliott Amal Clooney Jorge Posada TYRH the family — mom was a singer in of me,” she says. ■ Winter/WireImage Kevin by photograph White

18 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Photograph by MICHAEL BUCKNER WWD.COM AUGUST 2015, No. 4 19 From Gucci’s new direction to New York’s fashion week debut, WWD shares a backstage pass to the men’s season.

COLLECTIONS Special Issue

Gaining a new perspective on the genderless Millennial generation backstage at Gucci.

PORTFOLIO BY Piotr Niepsuj IN MILAN, Alfredo Piola IN PARIS AND Eli Schmidt IN NEW YORK TEXT BY Alex Badia A model in the spotlight at the dress rehearsal for Etro.

Beauty is in the details and a touch of flare at Paul Smith. Mothers are always the most sought-after stars, at Parke & Ronen. It takes a village to create a memorable moment at Rick Owens: from Cyclops headpieces to extreme spiked hairstyles — not to mention the clothes. From the master of Surrealism to Milan’s fashion maestro, Giorgio Armani.

Repetition is key for success at . I think we’re turning Japanese at Thom Browne’s arty show.

In the Hood by Air universe, bananas and mouthpieces easily coexist. MILAN

JUNE 20 - 10:30 A.M. – EMPORIO ARMANI JUNE 20 – 4 P.M. – JIL SANDER JUNE 20 – 6 P.M. – MARNI JUNE 20 – 7 P.M. – NEIL BARRETT JUNE 20 – 8 P.M. – VERSACE JUNE 21 – 10:30 A.M. – NO. 21 JUNE 21 – 12: 30 P.M. – SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JUNE 21 – 2 P.M. – CALVIN KLEIN BEGINNING #MFW WITH PLAYFUL KIDS WEARING GROWN-UP BUSINESS SUITS. TALK ABOUT A TIGHT SQUEEZE: CREATING CHIC NERD HAIR THE GRAPHIC ARMY IS GETTING READY TO MARCH THE RUNWAY WITH A KILLER NO CARBS UNTIL DECEMBER AFTER ARMY BOOTS AND BATHROBES IS ALSO A LOOK. IT TAKES ATTITUDE TO PULL OFF COLORBLOCKING AND THEN…PUT A YELLOW COLLECTION THE EMOTIONAL ROLLER THE PHOTOGRAPHERS’ PIT ISN’T THE ISN’T AN EASY TASK. ATTITUDE. THIS BACKSTAGE SELFIE. HAT ON. COASTER OF BEING A DESIGNER. MOST COMFORTABLE.

JUNE 21 – 4 P.M. – MISSONI JUNE 21 – 7 P.M. – MONCLER GAMME JUNE 22 - 12:30 P.M. – GUCCI JUNE 22 – 2 P.M. – ETRO JUNE 22 – 3 P.M. – MSGM JUNE 22 – 6 P.M. – FENDI JUNE 22 – 7 P.M. – MARCELO BURLON JUNE 23 – 9:30 A.M. – DSQUARED2 JUNE 23 – 10:30 A.M. – GIORGIO ARMANI TO FILTER OR NOT TO FILTER? THAT IS BLEU IT’S A LONG WAITING GAME IT IS A LONELY WORLD WITHOUT A TECH TOY. SILK PAISLEY SUITS ARE BUSINESS THE BIGGER THE HAIR, THE CLOSER THE BOYS AND THE LATEST TRENDY BAGS. COUNTY OF MILAN WHAT’S A SHOW GETTING OUT OF BED AT 7 A.M. FOR ROUNDED EYEWEAR WAS COOL IN THE EIGHTIES — AND IS EVEN COOLER NOW. THE QUESTION. FOR THE MALE MODEL. AS USUAL FOR KEAN ETRO. TO FASHION. WITHOUT STATEMENT CASTING? SEE-THROUGH BODYSUITS IS NEVER AN ISSUE.

PARIS

JUNE 24 – 5:30 P.M. – VALENTINO JUNE 24 – 6:30 P.M. – HAIDER JUNE 24- 8:30 P.M. – JUNE 25 – 12:30 P.M. – RICK OWENS JUNE 25 – 2:30 P.M. – LOUIS VUITTON JUNE 25 – 7 P.M. – DRIES VAN NOTEN JUNE 26 – 6 P.M. – GIVENCHY JUNE 26 – 8 P.M. – BERLUTI ROMANTIC WAVY HAIR AT THE FIRST SHOW IN THE FRENCH CAPITAL SEEMS ACKERMANN MEETING ANOTHER ALWAYS A RAIL-THIN TOUCH OF YOUTHFUL RAVE WITH MR. SIMONS. OMG, I KILLED KENNY HAIR. BLUE LIGHT ALWAYS SEEMS TO COOL IT DOWN DURING THE FRENCH HEAT WAVE. OH MARILYN!!!…WE’VE MISSED YOU. WITH RICCARDO TISCI AT THE HELM, CASTING NEVER GOES WRONG, WHO SAID NEWSPAPERS ARE DEAD? APPROPRIATE. TYPE OF DANDY. #SOMELIKEITHOT AND OF COURSE, WE LOVE A GOLD CHAIN.

JUNE 27 – 10 A.M. – KENZO JUNE 27 – 11 A.M. – SACAI JUNE 27 – 3 P.M. – DIOR HOMME STREET JUNE 27 – 5 P.M. – BALMAIN MODELS JUNE 27 – 9 P.M. – AMI JUNE 28 – 11 A.M. – LANVIN JUNE 28 – 2:30 P.M. – Y–3 JUNE 28 – 3 P.M. – HOOD BY AIR JUNE 28 – 4 P.M. – PAUL SMITH JUNE 28 – 6 P.M. – THOM BROWNE GETTING READY FOR THE PARIS BOURSE IS ALWAYS A BOURGEOISE REFERENCES FROM THE THAT DRESS LIKE SOCIALITES; SO- THE RETURN OF ACID-WASH IT’S ALL ABOUT LABELS, AFTER ALL. YOHJI KNOWS THE POWER A HAIRBOW PIN IS ALL YOU NEED AN EIGHTIES SUIT FESTIVAL WITH A TOUCH OF “MIAMI VICE.” PAGING DON MODELS DRESSED LIKE GEISHAS AND WEARING KLAUS NOMI MAKEUP JUST ADD A MOON LANDING. BREATHTAKING SHOW LOCATION. HAND OF KRIS VAN ASSCHE. CIALITES THAT DRESS LIKE MODELS. JEANS, WHAT A DELIGHT. OF THE THREE STRIPES. WHEN DRESSING LIKE A DOLL. JOHNSON. TO THE GENDER-BENDING TREND.

NEW YORK

JULY 14 – 9 A.M. – THOM BROWNE JULY 14 – 12 P.M. – ROBERT GELLER JULY 14 – 10:30 A.M. – PUBLIC SCHOOL JULY 14 – 2 P.M. – DUCKIE BROWN JULY 14 – 4 P.M. – TODD SNYDER JULY 14 – 7 P.M. – OVADIA & SONS JULY 15 – 10 A.M. – JOHN ELLIOTT + CO. JULY 15 – 11 A.M. – MICHAEL BASTIAN ANOTHER THOM BROWNE SHOW, BUT IN A DIFFERENT CITY, RICH SILKY COLORS CREATE A TIME-TRAVELING IN NEW YORK, “WARRIORS COME OUT AND PLAY.” GETTING DUCKIE-D OUT BEFORE THE BACKSTAGE IS A MADHOUSE, BUT THE ENERGY IS PRICELESS. A MODEL’S CLEAR MESSAGE THAT WE A NEW STAR OF #NYFW IS BORN WITH FASHION BEARS ALWAYS WANT ALL THE ATTENTION. THIS TIME SHOWING HIS SIGNATURE GRAY SUIT. HEAD-TURNING COLLECTION. SHOW. WISH WE COULD FOLLOW. HIS STREET-SAFARI COLLECTION.

JULY 15 – 1 P.M. – RICHARD CHAI JULY 15 – 2 P.M. – JULY 15 – 7:30 P.M. – TIM COPPENS JULY 15 – 9 P.M. – BILLY REID TOM GAS- JULY 16 – 10 A.M. – PERRY ELLIS JULY 16 – 1 P.M. – PARKE & RONEN JULY 16 – 8 P.M. – JOHN VARVATOS HIGH-WAISTED AND BIG VOLUME IS A TREND AND MR. CHAI NAILS IT. AMERICAN HERITAGE SPORTSWEAR DON’T GET MAKEUP ON THE T-SHIRT!!! BUT REALLY…JUST ANOTHER PHOTO OP. KIN GETTING DRESSED FOR THE LAST FIRST LOOKS OF THE DAY, BUT WAIT A MINUTE — SOMEONE BARELY SLEPT. THE AMERICAN BEEFCAKE FACTORY NEVER DISAPPOINTS. A ROCK ’N’ ROLL COLLECTION WITH A SIDE ORDER OF LUCKY BLUE CLOSES THE ON DISPLAY. #DEJAVU SHOW OF THE DAY; IT NEVER ENDS. WELL DONE, TOM. FIRST NYFW: MEN’S. UNTIL NEXT TIME, FOR NOW, LET’S DANCE. 00 34 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM

MONTH 2015, No.1tk Agenda campaigns himself), and nodisproportionate marketing oradvertising (heshoots allthe the real estate for hisBritishshops), nogrand (indeed, hewas often theoneinvesting, buying Smith, 69, achieved itallwith nofancy investment ofnorth $320million anddouble-digitprofits. still independent—business withannualsales his native Nottingham into aninternational —and commerce. mix of and art with hissignature defied gravity Paul Smith design talent, for struggling In atown famous

MINDING THESTORE

WWD.COM tiny, windowless shopin managed to transform a be SirPaul Smith, who the keeper inchief should —then the 18thcentury saying withasneersince as theFrench have been nation of shopkeepers — f Englandisindeeda

has ¶

BY

Samantha Conti PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME

Illustration: Artist Name

Illustration: Artist Name Photographs by They those principles. “He has never forgotten London’s DesignMuseum. My Paul Nameis Smith” at 2013 exhibition “Hello, Loveday, who curatedthe needs tobe,”says Donna the customerexperience “Paul what understands says Mdumulla. balance withcommerce,” that you needtofinda you’re toocreative, and never besuccessful if can final formen’s wear. Prize British Isles regional scooped theWoolmark & Sam,which lastmonth the men’s wear brandAgi mulla of andSamCotton protégés are AgapeMdu- mostrecenters. His mentoring young design- design firms. automobile andindustrial collaborations withsports, and hometextile designto professional photography thatstretchactivities from ofextracurriculara string still-thriving businessand peerswitha among his and remains ananomaly totheindustry,services for in2000 Elizabeth He wasknightedby Queen pendent fashion designer. ain’s mostsuccessfulinde- Brit- made himpostwar the luxury arena, have ativity, insideandoutside savvy, andcre- curiosity growth, volume never fell. ofeconomic lost decades even duringthecountry’s 1982, andSmithsaidthat been sellingthere since annually. Thebrandhas about$330million total —intheregion business rate from own his direct licensedsales—sepa- his childlike imagination—and quickly charmand forhis fell in Japan —thecountry humming. ready-to-wear machine accessories tokeep the reliance onfragranceor Others would agree: “He toldusthatyou He alsospendstime Smith’s commercial He hasalways beenbig KATE PETERS been headofmen’s design. who had previouslystaffer Simon Homes, alongtime firstcreativehis director, fashion rolling around.” That’s justthewheel of double-breasted designs. jackets, widerlapelsand shapes again,more relaxed toseebigger starting already Soyou’re doneit. would rejectbecause we’ve that maybe my age group they embracedthethings are 20or21,tothearchive, the younger who artists, ham. WhenItooksomeof Smith archive inNotting- we have avery good Paul team inunderme—and design team. bers ofhis revival totheyounger mem- flared. cropped orvoluptuously stovepipe-slimcame and Trousers styles. tip-length cropped toloose,finger- ranging from boxy and ofproportions, a variety double-breasted jackets in and geometric shapes. Bauhaus-inspired boxes blurred-edge checksand and patternssuchasbig, shoulders oftheera, with thewider, built-up ets withpeaklapels,coats ettes, double-breasted jack- brimming withboxy silhou- regularly dressed. and David Bowie, whom he David Bailey, EricClapton including David Hockney, the era’s creative talents wear, andwere inspired by Seventies originsinmen’s hark backtohis collections mostrecentHis runway enjoyingis aresurgence. daystwo aweek —Smith he couldonly afford torun than 150 square which feet, Nottingham store —less opening thatfirsttiny shopkeeping.” from somany years of are embeddedinhim Smith hasalso In March, henamed “I’ve putavery young runwaySmith credits his featured springeffort His was The fallcollection Now, 45 years after ►

Collections reorganized his design stu- dio so the men’s and wom- en’s teams are now sitting next to each other, sharing fabrics and working in parallel. He believes he’s Collections found the right chemistry, blending the experience and expertise of his gener- ation with the fresh eyes of the younger one. The new organization also enables Smith to spend more time doing what he enjoys. He reg- ularly roves the stands at the European fabric fairs — admitting he loves discovering new textures and colors, and spending time with his staff outside the design studio. “You can have a whole day with your team, have a coffee and say: ‘Oh, I really liked the yarn in that stand and that might work as an overcoat,’ so it’s part of the creative process,” says Smith, who’s dressed in one of his travel-friendly, windowpane-check suits in Loro Piana wool. His feet are clad in weathered white sneakers made

the ground and just enjoy- “It is very easy for many designers to ing life for life’s sake.” Smith has never been at distance themselves too much from the the knife’s edge of design, nor has he pocketed hun- dreds of millions in stock nitty-gritty, and you can’t really do that.” options, as have some of his fashion peers. He has from glove leather, and he rebooted the design studio, PAUL SMITH stores and fashion labels to no problem with that. SPRING 2006 shows off the waistband of Smith has no plans to alter keep the cash flowing and “The main thing is I’m his snazzy red-and-white- the company’s strategy. his Nottingham store open. proud of our continu- striped boxer shorts, all of “I have no intention of Smith believes one of the ity and of the fact that which are from the brand. selling the business, float- main reasons his brand has we’ve always had a good “It is very easy for many ing on the stock market endured is because of his standing. We’ve never designers to distance or retiring. I have good wife’s original insistence been number one, but themselves too much from people in place, so there on quality. we’ve never not been in the nitty-gritty, and you is continuity in the studio, “She trained at London’s the top 10,” says Smith. “I can’t really do that,” he the financial aspect and Royal College of Art as a mean, it’s extraordinarily adds, noting his London the retail.” fashion designer when they dangerous to be number headquarters, located on In many ways, Paul were still teaching couture one, because there is only a quiet street in Covent Smith is still a mom-and- fashion,” he recounts. one place you can go — and Garden, is an efficient pop operation, albeit on “So Paul Smith has been that’s down.” operation. “Everything’s a grand scale. The brand always been based on The designer also under one roof here, so the has 40 directly owned quality, the importance believes that size still joy is I’ve got marketing, stores and 176 franchise of beautiful stitching, matters in fashion, and social media, shop design, shops and sells in 359 nice quality buttons, and overdistribution is a curse. press office, sales, as well department stores and understanding cut, shape, It’s sad to think that many as all the design team. We 1,247 multibrand boutiques and proportion.” of the big designer brands do all our fabric design worldwide. Pauline has also helped aren’t really exclusive the here as well.” In past years, the “mom” him remain grounded in way they used to be.” Smith remains the major- was Smith’s wife, Pauline an industry packed with He believes the business ity shareholder in the com- Denyer, who helped to set high-strung personalities is poised for a significant pany, with a 60 percent Smith on his success track. and the constant pressure correction. “There is far stake, while Itochu, his He dedicated the Design to innovate and remain rel- too much product, far too longtime Japanese licensee, Museum show to Pauline, evant. “With Pauline, I’ve many shops that have the holds the remaining 40 who helped design Smith’s got the stability at home, same or a similar appear- WWD.COM

percent. Smith says he has first collections — bell-bot- I’m not using energy on ance, and I think in the an easy relationship with toms, jackets, frilly and lots of networking or pri- next 10 years you will see Itochu, and they don’t get flowery shirts — while he vate views. I’m not worried big adjustments. If you involved with the business. studied tailoring at night about being famous. It’s keep blowing up a balloon,

While he may have and consulted for various about keeping your feet on eventually it will burst.” ■ Giannoni Giovanni by photographs Runway AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST BRUNOMAGLI.COM 36 38 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Collections Générale directional collection. key reference for Pierre Maheo’s of SaintGermainserved asa Mastroianni strolling inthestreets Photographs of Marcello 10. subtly futuristic show. by designerStefano Pilatiduringa among themost directional looks and stripped-down tailoring were Generous silhouettes, liquidfabrics Zegna 9. jacket, thisseason’s key style. silhouettes, suchasasouvenir LeagueAsia thatheusedinIvy embroideries from Southeast evident intheexotic printsand Kim Jones’ appetite for travel was 8. core of thisnew Parisian elegance. jacketsflowy andcoatswere atthe the anklespaired withlightweight Pleated pantsthatpooledaround 7. leather piecesandsafari elements. fabrics withsleekmoto-racer blended dandysuitsinheritage the kingof League AmericanIvy In hisreturn to theMilanrunway, Purple Label 6. reigned supreme. jackets inavariety of shapes— silhouette —double-breasted lineup where anew tailored clothing glowa colorful to thedesigner’s An iridescentcolorschemegave 5. slouchy silhouettes. showed alineupfullof vintage than Milan’s emperor of soft, who volume —nobodydoesitbetter oversize proportions andplays on In aseasonawash withfluidity, 4. androgynous effort. more timewithhis “boy inspace” based designer, whoexceled one differentiation for theLondon- accessories isapointof Storytelling viaclothes and 3. plaid ponchos. Peruvian-inspired Bermudasto guy withamash-upof styles from cultures to conjure atrulyglobal traveled across time, styles and Japanese designerChitose Abe 2. andafeylace shirts attitude. lineup headlinedby silkblouses, a genderlessSeventies-infused Alessandro Michelepresented collections of theseason, One of themost influential 1. WWD’s picks of theseason’s top men’s collections. SPRING ETERNAL Gucci Paul Smith

Lemaire Sacai J.W. Anderson Giorgio Armani Louis Vuitton Ermenegildo Ralph Lauren

Officine

7. 1.

8.

2.

4.

9.

3.

5.

10.

6.

Anderson, Armani, Gucci, Lemaire, Smith, Vuitton and Zegna photographs by Giovanni Giannoni; Sacai and Officine Générale by Dominique Maître 40 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Collections

ROBERT GELLER ern, sexy, funandexciting,” said into sleek, high-endfootwear. nous tribes, andspinningthem his native Brazil anditsindige- natural materials, somefrom London andspecializes intaking tigious Cordwainers Collegein Vanassibara studied atthepres- Diego Vanassibara the namesthatdiditbest Diego Vanassibara were among Pierre Hardy, and Cartujano car forhigh-end sports thefoot. —likepersonality andluxury a they still scream highnet worth, than theirpredecessors, but and technologically advanced They maybemore comfortable shoe isready for arenaissance? now, isitany surprisethedress of thefootwear heapfor solong he sneaker hasbeenatthetop say it—legs. look continues to have —dare we all-weather socks-and-sandals be broken. Love itorhate it, the Some rules were just Sock Politic

“Craftsmanship canbemod- MEN’S R-T-W SPRING. meantto and tonic, thisonejust endures. soup andgrilledcheese, andgin like peanutbutter andjelly, tomato Veneta, Kenzo andVersace. And at shows includingBottega packed withthedubiouspairing,

Isetan, Dover Street Market and and soldatstores including of someBrazilian tribes. the decorative scarification of leathercutto resemble unique, madefrom lacidyers Even hisslip-onsneakers are carved inIndonesia. mahogany orrosewood, hand- pattern oradornedwithdelicate laser-engraved withaturtle-shell feathers, others thathave been in green cockerel and goose lection features shoescovered the designer, whoselatest col- The HeelingRemedy:Dress ShoeMakes aComeback The springrunways were The shoesare madeinItaly shoes cost 880euros, or$971. orate designs. Thegreen feather euros, or$717, for themost elab- from 590 euros, or$650, to 650 H Lorenzo. Retail pricesrange dressy, theclassicshoesas have beautifulshoes, chicand a man,” saidHardy. “I want to issue...As adesignerandas men’s dress shoesare a “big ing hislabelin1999, believes and Christian Diorbefore launch- waho honedhis skillsatHermès French designerPierre Hardy, Pierre Hardy AT .C. A. D. D. C. B. A. quirky elementto thecollections. Match thembelow. While theclothes are themainfocus of any runway show, eccentricandover-the-top hairdos addafunand Name ThatDesigner Hairdo BILLY REID. Y-3 Costume National Dries Van Noten Neil Barret

VANASSIBARA

DIEGO .D. B. D. D. C. B. Garçons HommePlus A. Givenchy Hoodby Air Commedes Kenzo details, sothestructure isvery We triedto erase alltheuseless craft, whichisavery truedesign. stitching, very traditional hand- a goodjustice of ratted black Richelieu, but it’s handmade, it’s So it’s areal brogue, it’s areal clean andasgraphic aspossible. Hardy. “But makingthemas shoe styles for men,” added to focus onvery basic, standard $845 for aHopperstyle. “I tried $495 for boot adesert style to latest collection ranging from more streamlined lookfor his wonder aboutthattoo.” to find, andIthinkmentoday anymore. Sothisbalanceishard too modernit’s not even classic too modern—becausewhen it’s and modernaspossible. Butnot lection, to make themasclean classic dress shoeinthecol- boring. Thatiswhy withthe Itry without itlookingold, classicand very classicandelegantshoe to combinethisfantasy andthe because it’s very hard for aguy shoes. It’s like afantasy, Ithink, handcrafted, beautifullymade equivalent of thetailor. Really The designerfocused ona — LUIS CAMPUZANO D. D. C. B. A. Lemaire Louis Vuitton Lanvin Juun.J with thelonger lengths. added volume thatworked well with intensified textures, which remained onclean,fresh styles Theemphasis bohemian look. fringe —created amasculine, longcurls andlong occasional with messyfinishes —and texturedto-long hairstyles Eighties forspring. Medium- but thingsswungbackto the season’s favored runway look, O TEXTURED TOUSLE Slicked-back hairwas last cowboy boots. to 650euros or$717for euros or$386 for asneaker, Goodyear-welted.” with stitched details onleather, icon:alowthe Cartujano boot cowboy boot isanew version of “In theheritage range, the Goodyear-welted,” saidFluxá. in Mallorca withthetradition of outdoor, butallmanufactured boots, highboots, ormore city Oxford, monkstrap, Chelsea on withclassics:moccasin, son, thenew collection carries for theSpanishlabel. sea- “This to focus ontraditional footwear dating backto 1928, Fluxá opted created theCamperbrand. — whobears thesamename— in1928andFluxá’s father great-grandfather launchedLot- a shoemakingtradition. Fluxá’s of theFluxá family, on carrying is afourth-generation member General managerLorenzo Fluxá EspañaCartujano clean andmore streamlined.” classic, butthelinesare more

The pricerange isfrom 350 With ahistory of shoemaking BY D. D. C. B. A. RickOwens

Moschino MaisonMargiela Thom Browne Lorelei Marfil — LUIS CAMPUZANO A) Y-3 B) Comme des Garçons Homme Plus C) Juun.J D) Rick Owens Juun.J D) Rick Owens Homme Plus C) B) Comme des Garçons A) Y-3 Answers: Answers:

Geller photograph by Steve Eichner; Reid by Eli Schmidt Alexander McQueen Berluti Prada Bertoni Collections

Costume National Vivienne Westwood

Bobby Abley Pierre Hardy

Loewe Andrea Incontri

GIVING NOTICE By Alex Badia

From underwater-creature prints and alien heads to rabbit-shaped Dior Homme Brunello Cucinelli carryalls, the men’s accessories market again proves that the sky is not the limit for head-turning novelty.

Marni Valentino Caruso Givenchy

Gucci Bally J.W. Anderson Christopher Raeburn

Duchamp London Adidas × Raf Simons Neil Barrett WWD.COM

Abley photograph by AC Cooper Ltd.; Cucinelli, Costume National and Caruso by Davide Maestri National and Caruso by Costume Cucinelli, Cooper Ltd.; AC by photograph Abley AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST 42 The New Front Row The athletes at the shows: a scorecard. Collections

Collections

NYFW: Men’s gets high marks, with some caveats

The big news during New York Fashion Week: Men’s was the mere fact of the event itself. For the first time in decades, men’s wear had dedicated runway time and a week to call its own. Did it work? Some say yes, and that it was a long time coming — Victor Cruz Tom Daley Amar’e Stoudemire New York designers are having increasing international influence DWe’re sure it looks great on DThe Olympic diver shines in DThe rule for attending a runway and global reach. They showed a model, but this hybrid varsity his front-row debut with this show as a celebrity is to wear sparks of creativity, made some hooded nylon parka is a bit too minimalistic sleek eveningwear- a look from the designer. But progress and drew top stores. It affected for him. inspired suit. the logo-heavy Kenzo feels a bit looks like the format will continue DThe graphic element on the DThe ultrathin shawl lapel works forced. for the foreseeable future, espe- white T-shirt adds complication to well with the skinny shirt collar DThe white suede sneakers cially with the Council of Fashion the already tricked-out ensemble. C- and his angular features. A- — although they’re pretty — B- Designers of America behind it exaggerate his size 15 feet. with support and sponsorship. “For the first time, we have a room full of retailers here — we’ve wanted this for so long,” said Billy Reid after his runway show. Greg Lauren called it a successful start and a strong “showcase for All in the Family what’s happening in American design.” BY Luis Campuzano Barneys’ men’s general merchandise manager Tom Kalendarian said the separate What do you think about on jobs and now, occasionally we men’s fashion week “galvanized Andre van your son following in your work together. It just happened a strong message that will drive footsteps? seamlessly. business.” Andre van Noord: The industry is hard For long-term staying power, Noord is on people. Only time will tell if he What are your thoughts on the big boys will have to step makes it. The only thing that a your dad being a well-known up. American heavyweights like passing father can wish for is that his son model? Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and will do better than himself. Other- P.V.N.: Well, before I started my first Michael Kors participated, albeit wise, there is no use in doing the season in the fashion industry I with presentations, not full-blown the baton same thing. did not really know he was such a runway shows. And this season’s famous man. But when I went to anchor, John Varvatos, is still on to his son Did you ever think you would several castings like Berluti, Louis the fence. walk a runway show alongside Vuitton and even Gucci, they told “I was happy with the buzz, your father? me my father was/is a legend. press, reaction and attendance,” Parker Parker van Noord: I didn’t really think People were nice to me. There is said Varvatos, but hedged, “We famous saying about apples we would walk a show together, only one thing I don’t really like are just about to begin looking at who joined and where they fall vis-à-vis the but when I went to my castings, about my dad being a [top] model, January shows.” tree seems to apply this season, the first thing the casting director everywhere I go I am mentioned Nelson Mui, fashion director at especially in the case of Andre said was, “A-ha, you’re the son of as the son of Andre van Noord….I Hudson’s Bay, called it a “good him on the and Parker van Noord. The Dutch Andre.” I did not imagine I could be want to make my own name in the first start,” but “to keep people father-son duo walked the Umit booked, too. So I hoped we would fashion world. Oh, and if you knew coming back, there needs to be Dwyane Wade Lewis Hamilton Rudy Gay runway Benan show, together for the walk a show together and I’m very my father, you would not see him two to three more established first time, in Paris. happy that happened with Umit as a fashion model, and that is anchors.” DIt’s not easy for a basketball DThe pyramid haircut just DThe monochromatic outfit Andre started his career at Benan. what’s very cool about him. So it’s apparent that Europe player to pull off a bowler hat, but accentuates the egg shape of makes him look like one of the this age 21 and worked with some still rules the runways. With Milan at 6-foot-4, he just makes the cut. his face. Teletubbies. At 6 feet 8 inches, he of the industry’s most famous How did you decide to work Will we be seeing you together the commercial leader, Paris the would be the skinny one.

WWD.COM The high-top fringe- The colorblocking is a good D D WWD.COM

season. photographers, including Hedi together? again on the runway next trendsetter and a healthy dose of embellished Saint Laurent effort, but it’s one too many DEvery girl in town has a pair of Slimane and Peter Lindbergh, so A.V.N.: My son has a natural feel season? coming from London, sneakers are too precious for elements when paired with ripped light-colored . There’s a he’s got more than enough tips for the camera. People noticed A.V.N.: Probably…we’ll keep you the question remains: Where him and flirt with fashion victim B+ white jeans and snake-print high- D potential danger area: the male C+ for Parker as he gets his start in that and asked if they could posted. does that leave New York? territory. top designer sneakers. cameltoe. Make sure you cover it. the business. P.V.N.: — JEAN E. PALMIERI photograph us together. I took him Yes! Eichner Steve by All others Feugère; Stéphane by photographs Name Artist and Stoudemire Illustration: Daley AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST

44 Photograph by ANDRE VAN NOORD PHOTOGRAPH BY BYLINE_NAME 45 The New Crop

darkness that exists in my These designers are getting attention with their JACKSON MCKEEHAN work, but now it’s about finding a new ‘black.’” singular perspective and positioning in the market. The designer is also mov- LUCIO VANOTTI ing away from his usually slim silhouettes, and experimenting with more o stand out from a three-piece indigo oversize models, manipu- striped suit to patterned lating proportions to come in the growing ponchos. up with new lines. While his label isn’t “My work is an amalga-

men’s wear about to hang next to his PIERRE MAHÉO mation of everything that uncle’s anytime soon, Lau- I am thinking and seeing,” Collections category is no ren said he doesn’t really Lynn said. “I also consider think of how his line will what I want to wear and easy task, but perform commercially as what the people around he’s designing. me want to wear. Clothing these brands are “It’s part of my training isn’t art, but it should still as an artist. You put your- be a snapshot of the world doing just that. self out there and create we live in at a moment in work without thinking if Boyswear Todd Lynn time.” people will like it. After attending Jackson Before setting his sights Lynn’s prices range Even so, the line has McKeehan’s trippy on a career in fashion, from $250 for a T-shirt found a following. Lauren Boyswear presentation Todd Lynn wanted to to $2,500 for a suit or a said it’s carried in 50 during New York Men’s be an actor, which led leather jacket. His line is Lucio Vanotti “a constant sense of stores around the world Day, one can’t help but him to work in the art sold at boutiques includ- Amid an industry comfort” is the leitmotif

GREG LAUREN including Maxfield, Dover question what childhood department at various ing H Lorenzo in Los of flamboyance and of his creations, infused Street Market and Barneys was like for the designer. theater groups during high Angeles and ODD in New eccentricity, Lucio Vanotti with a sense of effortless New York. “I grew up ankle-deep in school, appearing on stage York. — L.M. is a quiet, discreet person, elegance. So while he noted that rat poop,” said McKeehan, and creating costumes. who prefers to let his Pure, graphic silhou- with his familial ties and who worked on his family’s “I like that I can have an designs do the talking. ettes and unexpected the fact that he’s married rodent farm in Missouri idea and create something After developing the proportions are also key TODD to actress Elizabeth Berk- Officine Générale have always been sur- — hence the Boyswear rat from beginning to end. I LYNN “February” contemporary elements of the brand’s ley, there’s a “microscope Officine Générale owner rounded by fabrics and logo. “I was always around can be very hands-on,” brand for nine years, the pieces, which are crafted focused more sharply on and designer Pierre Mahéo clothes. I always knew art that was for everybody Lynn said. “I cut most of designer established his from high-end fabrics what I do,” he doesn’t followed in his family’s I would launch my own so I focus a lot of my work the patterns myself and namesake line in 2012 with enhancing the light- really fret over that. footsteps and started his brand; it was a necessity on kitsch.” am very involved in the the goal of offering Made weight, relaxed feel of the “I want the collection career as a tailor in Paris for me.” Kitsch certainly came dialogue with the factories In Italy collections with a collection. to speak for itself, offer before working at fashion Mahéo decided to start through in McKeehan’s in the make of the pieces. personal point of view. Pants retail from 250 my own artistic blend and houses in Paris and Italy. his own label, he said, spring collection, which It’s artistic but practical.” According to Vanotti, euros, or $281 at current speak to who Greg is,” he He launched his men’s because “I was losing pas- was titled “The Manson Working with musicians exchange, to 350 euros, or said. “If you put things out wear line in 2012. sion in the previous com- Family Singers.” The including Janet Jackson, $393, while blazers range there that are authentic, “My grandfather was pany I was working for. designer referenced the U2 and Courtney Love, from 260 euros, or $292, then it’ll resonate.” a tailor, and had some The only way I could get it von Trapp family from Lynn designed wardrobes to 400 euros, or $449. Out- TODD — JEAN E. PALMIERI stores,” Mahéo said. “I back was to put together “The Sound of Music” and for album covers, music LYNN erwear pieces come in at what I had inside me, my the Charles Manson cult. videos and live perfor- about 500 euros, or $561. own vision. Designing This translated into an mances. He also worked Among the collection’s Greg Lauren making a jump into fash- product I wanted to wear Instagram-friendly lineup in Roland Mouret’s studio. BOYSWEAR bestsellers, Vanotti listed He has what can arguably ion,” he said. Instead, he was key.” of slick-haired models His strategy paid off: the comfy, deconstructed be called the most famous paired the innate knowl- GREG He said he wanted to wearing culottes along “After making wardrobe double-breasted suits, LAUREN last name in American edge he acquired growing “bring back the focus on with T-shirts and jackets pieces for various rock the layered pants as well fashion. But that doesn’t up in a fashion family with quality, work with the covered in imaginative ’n’ roll stars, I was getting as the lightweight jackets intimidate Greg Lauren. his artistic aesthetic. best material only, and be prints such as dancing requests from the friends made from shirt fabrics, “It’s a very powerful What that translates into extremely conscious about goats and nuns traipsing who wanted the same worked in graphic patterns name and it’s impossible on the runway is a collec- country of origin for both through the Alps. pieces,” said the Canadian of polka dots and stripes. for me to meet anyone tion that uses repurposed fabrics and production.” “The von Trapp family designer, who studied for “Rust was the most suc- without them having pre- fabrics such as vintage duf- His aesthetic is about “mix- led me to think about his M.A. in fashion under cessful color, along with conceived notions, but it’s fel bags, sailors’ uniforms ing tailoring, workwear the Manson family and I Louise Wilson at Central the more classic whites, only part of me. It doesn’t and Army tents to create a and military, without any thought it would be really Saint Martins in London. blues and blacks,” Vanotti define me,” he said. military-inspired assort- rules.” Fabrics come from funny to merge the two,” “That’s when I thought I said, revealing that the His father is Jerry ment of deconstructed Japan, England and Italy. McKeehan said. “I want should expand the busi- brown tone he included in Lauren, the longtime suits, field jackets, trench- “It’s a subtle recipe; I people to smile when they ness — and the audience.” the collection turned out executive vice president coats and even a touch of have never been a fan of see my work.” Today, Lynn considers to be very difficult to sell of men’s design for Ralph tailored clothing. ‘overdesigned product,’” Before breaking out on “rock ’n’ roll tailoring” to in Asia. Lauren Corp., And, of Lauren grew up loving he noted. “You want to his own as a designer, McK- be his trademark. “Not in Vanotti said he would course, Jerry’s brother is… “vintage military every- look and feel good in your eehan was a theater major a cliché way,” he stressed. like to focus more on the Greg’s Uncle Ralph. So the thing….That led me to clothes, while being a bit and then went to the Fash- “I spent a lot of time classic, sartorial part of provenance is impressive experiment and make a different, but not scream- ion Institute of Technology working on cut. It’s a big his collections to propose indeed. beautiful three-piece suit ing, ‘Hey look at me.’ to study men’s design. part of what I do. It’s not a “new idea of tailoring.” But Greg Lauren is his out of military duffel bags. That’s why it works. It’s When McKeehan is not really surface; it’s deeper The development of a full OFFICINE own man, with design on I destroy it and make it also a question of attitude.” designing his collection, than that. Leather jackets, footwear range is also on GÉNÉRALE his mind and art in his unglamorous.” Officine Générale is he’s putting his real estate tailored jackets, tailored his agenda. heart. And his apparel His spring collection sold in , license to use and renting trousers. I make clothes “The sandals I designed WWD.COM WWD.COM

collection, which launched was intended to “create an Odin, Bergdorf Goodman out apartments in Brook- for people who like to for next spring were in 2011, is an extension and epic men’s wear story,” he and Nordstrom. Prices lyn. “[It] helps me pay my make a bit of an effort well-received and I think evolution of his paintings said, and offered up a Bed- range from $260 for a shirt rent and pay for the line,” when they get dressed. VANOTTILUCIO that there is good poten- and paper sculptures. ouin take on the season to $1,400 for a coat. said the designer. Leather, fur, structured tial in this segment.” — LORELEI MARFIL Dadey Christopher by Chinsee; Lynn George by photograph runway Boyswear — ARIA HUGHES — ALESSANDRA TURRA “I never looked at it as with 62 looks that ranged Dominique Maître by Thomas Iannaccone; Officine Générale by photograph runway Lauren tailoring. There is a AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST

0046 MONTH 2015, No.X WWD.COM Illustrations by DANILO AGUTOLI 47 2005 The Millennial customers’ Collections acceptance of gender non- conformity is having a dramatic impact on fashion.

THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH BY Joelle Diderich

1997

And all this coincides with a moment when the transgender community — HEDI SLIMANE’S thank you, Caitlyn Jenner GENDER-BENDING — is experiencing unprece- MUSES dented visibility. These archival images, “We are living in a here and far left, shot transgender moment,” said and provided by Riki Wilchins, a transgen- Slimane, illustrate how androgyny has der activist and author impacted his design of three books on gender aesthetic. theory. “Gender roles are being challenged, and 8 they’re being challenged in 199 fashion. Fashion isn’t just reflecting it, fashion is help- ing to lead it, it’s profound “Men’s wear” is starting to and it’s here to stay.” Even before the U.S. sound like an antiquated Supreme Court legalized same-sex marriage in June, term. ¶ Silk blouses, knit skirts a revolution was playing out on social media. “I and hip-hugging tunics are all think Millennials are defi- nitely pushing this change. part of the picture for the spring Millennials are much more comfortable with gender

2016 season, accentuating the nonconformity and gender 1999 2006 queerness,” Wilchins said. ways that men’s collections Celebrities such as , Kristen Stewart profess a gender-neutral each other — reflects the are becoming more gender and Cara Delevingne are aesthetic — cult labels like principles of Gypsy Sport. ¶ rejecting what they view as 69 Worldwide, Baja East, “The idea is that it’s a fluid than ever. Designers outdated definitions of sex- Eckhaus Latta and Vejas, planet where everyone is uality. Though whose fashion shows often welcome — anyone of any Alessandro Michele at Gucci, now offers a smorgasbord take on the air of under- race, ethnicity, gender, Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent of gender options, they ground art happenings. color, size,” he explained. prefer to write their own Streetwear’s elevation to “I just started it as a and Jonathan Anderson were script. As Cyrus recently luxury status, in particular, men’s line with the idea told Paper magazine: “I has been instrumental in to make stuff that might among those flying the flag don’t relate to being boy moving fashion forward. be pushing the envelope a or girl, and I don’t have to Harlem-based label little bit for men, but never for a new young style inspired have my partner relate to Gypsy Sport captured the to make it an androgynous boy or girl.” zeitgeist with its guerril- or unisex line. But as time by Millennials — a generation The boys have been less la-style fashion show in went on, more people vocal in staking out the Washington Square Park started to give me that that appears to have cast off “New Neutral” of gender last September, in which type of reputation, and I politics. androgynous models in realized that it was actually gender labels like last season’s That doesn’t mean it’s ethnic-flavored garb took working and selling that WWD.COM

not happening. For one over a public space. way, so I just went with it,” Zara duds. thing, men are moving on Designer Rio Uribe said Uribe recounted. from the classic button- the brand’s Haturn planet Shayne Oliver, whose down-and-pants combo logo — consisting of two luxury streetwear label ► Illustration: Artist Name Artist Illustration: and adopting brands that baseball caps turning on Hood by Air cleared the AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST 49 way for genderless brands, of androgyny, who started “It’s very transgressive,” always about no gender, likes to challenge gender RICK OWENS HOOD BY AIR challenging conventional said Rech of Slimane. “He but rather a generation, DUCKIE BROWN stereotypes head-on. notions of masculine hasn’t been afraid to lose a and an allure,” according He summed up his Paris beauty in the late Nineties whole segment of custom- to the house of Saint Lau- runway debut during as head of men’s collec- ers, presumably in order to rent, also noting Slimane men’s fashion week in June tions at Yves Saint Laurent, win another.” changed the look of models Collections as “extravagance without a and went on to revolution- She noted that while by street casting young, filter” — think off-the-shoul- ize male — and female — the legendary house’s androgynous “indie” types. der tops, zipper-adorned wardrobes with his skinny founder was the first to During his first tenure maxiskirts and fetish acces- suits for Dior Homme. dress women in tuxedos at YSL, Slimane dressed sories including dental Almine Rech, whose gal- via Le Smoking, Slimane women in men’s wear, retractors and padlocked leries in Paris and Brussels is breaking new ground starting with in pacifiers. show Slimane’s artwork, by imposing a youth-dom- 1997, foreshadowing his “I do men’s Paris sees his current reinven- inated unisex aesthetic at belief in a unisex ward- because I enjoy causing tion of Saint Laurent as no a luxury brand. To wit, he robe. He introduced Saint friction,” said the designer, less exciting. Since taking photographed his spring Laurent’s new “perma- who also shows in New over the brand in 2012, 2015 collection on models nent” collection in 2012, York. “It was a ‘f--k you Slimane has shown his seen from the back, mak- offering for both sexes mas- — we don’t need to sell men’s collections on male ing gender identification culine tailoring, peacoats, you anything,’ because a and female models, with redundant. duffel coats, trenchcoats, show is about a mood and items like trenchcoats and “Calvin Klein did it with leather blousons, skinny an archetype. It’s about “The point is not to just The establishment is leather jackets becoming jeans, but nobody has jeans and duffel bags. Hourani has been like a woman or making a something that doesn’t put heels on someone taking notice. staples for both sexes. dared to do it with a brand In a uniquely upscale selected as one of the woman look like a man,” necessarily have to sit on a and have them walking This year, Oliver For his spring 2016 that had haute couture manner, Slimane is ambassadors for a similar he explained. “I’m not rack in general for men or the runway and be like, scooped up the Swarovski “Surf Sounds” collection, and luxury ready-to- mirroring the shopping initiative by luxury online trying to limit people into women.” ‘Oh my God, that was Award for Menswear at the inspired by the California wear aimed at a wealthy, habits of the boys and boutique Thecorner. being only androgynous Not that HBA spurns genius!’ It’s more about the Council of Fashion Design- music scene, Kurt Cobain bourgeois clientele,” Rech girls who camp out on the com, set to launch in or only transsexual or only the commercial aspect. modern-day take on what ers of America Awards and others, male models noted. floor at his shows to watch mid-September. feminine or only mascu- The collection is carried that means for someone and has been mentored wore flashy satin jack- “Hedi’s attitude toward their peers — indie band “The No Gender section line. I’m creating a canvas in more than 220 points of to do that,” he said. “I’m for the last year by a team ets and colorful granny genders has always been members and celebrity stems from an observation that can be adapted to any sale worldwide, including not doing it to be shocking from luxury conglomerate cardigans with the same challenging the pre- offspring like Jack Kilmer, of how an increasing num- style.” Barneys, Colette, Prin- — it’s because I want this LVMH Moët Hennessy nonchalance as black conceived ideas about Dylan Brosnan and Char- ber of people buy clothes Damien Paul, head of temps and Lane Crawford. person to actually wear it.” Louis Vuitton, after coming leather jackets. masculinity. Hedi was lie Oldman — walk the — beyond seasonal trends, men’s wear at Matches- in as runner-up in the inau- runway. beyond gender divisions, fashion.com, said that gural LVMH Prize competi- As retailers have toward a timeless and approach is gaining genderless aesthetic,” tion for emerging talents. GUCCI noticed, too, Millennials currency. And Gypsy Sport has are not shy about crossing explained Katherine Yoo, “We’re definitely seeing been selected as one of the into departments dedi- head of merchandising a shift — increasingly, J.W. ANDERSON 10 finalists for the CFDA/ cated to the opposite sex. at Thecorner.com, which designers are creating Vogue Fashion Fund. “This cross-division belongs to Yoox Group. clothing with a more uni- Crews from Ovation TV shopping pattern is The section will feature versal appeal. It feels like have been shadowing increasingly significant to more than 30 brands a more modern approach Uribe as he gears up to “In my modeling career bandwagon, particularly the way we buy, merchan- including Rick Owens, than any clichés about gen- present his first women’s I’m shown as a white male in those men’s collections dise and retail product,” Lemaire, Lucio Vanotti, dered dressing. I thought it collection on Sept. 15. model who can play the — without naming any said Judd Crane, director Gypsy Sport, Études Stu- was really interesting that So does this spell the masculine and androg- names. If it wasn’t in the of women’s wear and dio, Giorgio Armani and when Craig Green intro- end of the guy’s guy as we ynous parts. I have felt cultural air, it never would accessories at Selfridges. Yohji Yamamoto. duced women’s looks into know him? One thing’s for beautiful in both a dress have made the collection, The British department Hourani said he was his runway show this sea- sure: Androgyny is the new and a suit,” said Gates, so to me, some of it did store chain earlier this year pleased to see the concept son, the girls were dressed gold standard in magazine who recently did a shoot look quite fake,” he said. hosted Agender pop-up catching on, but he was almost identically to the editorials and advertising. with photographer Terry “And then there are stores at its flagship on keen to make a distinction boys — he kept his focus Amid news that Apple Richardson for Vogue brands whose DNA, like London’s Oxford Street, as between his approach and on the silhouettes that he’s Model Management, a Hommes in which he Hood by Air, is just born well as in its Manchester the androgynous trend already gained a following leading Thai agency, is switched between the two. right out of that,” Burstell and Birmingham stores seen on men’s catwalks. for,” he noted. opening a Los Angeles Nonetheless, Gates is continued. “For me, it and online. “He She Me,” “For me, unisex is Burstell said “gender branch dedicated to trans- somewhat guarded about would just be about the a fashion film starring Nef more about neutrality flip” would be at the center gender talent, modeling fashion’s flirtation with integrity of the brands. If that was commissioned than making a man look of Liberty’s fall campaign. agents are scrambling to cross-dressing. this is part of their DNA as part of the project, “It could be an entire sign fresh faces, with a pre- “The idea of a trend and it’s genuine, there’s was viewed more than bank of windows where mium on the kind of wan, worries me because trends no reason why it wouldn’t 300,000 times. all the female mannequins bespectacled guys who die off,” he said. “I think have longevity.” Agender offered more “That it are in men’s wear. We’re walked the Gucci runway there is a danger in sensa- Burstell pointed out than 40 men’s wear and deciding just how far and in pussy-bow blouses and tionalizing any identity. In the androgynous look has women’s wear labels, in dovetails how deep we want to go. Seventies thrift-store chic. mainstream men’s fashion, been around for a while. addition to five new-to- You need to change a con- Actress and model dressing feminine has been “That it dovetails with as store unisex labels, includ- with as big sumer’s eye, and it takes a Hari Nef, a trans-fashion provocative in the past, or big a cultural moment as ing Canadian designer Rad a cultural little while for your eye to muse with an avid Tumblr sometimes even used as Caitlyn Jenner’s transition Hourani’s made-to-order change,” he noted. following, recently joined a party trick. This doesn’t has just made it snowball, designs. moment It all adds up to an excit- the women’s roster at IMG feel right to me.” but there have been a lot “The concept of unisex ing time for retailers. Worldwide and is set to Ed Burstell, managing of people that have been or co-ed dressing is as Caitlyn “The future really is appear in the second sea- director of specialty store working this vein for a increasingly accessible and just going to be about the son of Amazon’s ground- Liberty London, is also really long time — Rick works well commercially Jenner’s acceptance of choice,” breaking series “Trans- skeptical when it comes Owens, Gareth Pugh, Ann for us,” Crane said. “What transition has Burstell argued. “At the WWD.COM

parent.” Brooklyn-based to the growing embrace of Demeulemeester, Comme we learn from our creative end of all of this, isn’t it just artist Michael Bailey Gates, feminine stylings on the des Garçons, Haider Acker- projects, and from Agen- just made it what you’re comfortable whose work explores gen- runway. mann,” he noted. der in particular, could in? If you want to wear a der identity, is on the men’s “There were an awful lot And then there is really impact the way our snowball.” men’s suit or if you want to

board at Ford Models. of people who were on the Slimane, the patron saint Giannoni Giovanni by Eli Schmidt; All others by Piola; Brown Alfredo by photograph Owens stores look in the future.” — Ed Burstell, Liberty London wear a dress, why not?” ■ AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST 50 Haider Ackermann’s linen coat and linen and cotton vest and Billy Reid’s cotton shorts. It’s time to relax. Haider Ackermann scarf; Karen Karch necklace; Gucci necklace. Collections After a decade of ultraslim proportions and fitted cuts, a fresh, slouchy silhouette featuring voluminous blazers, baggy pleated pants and an easy attitude is taking the lead. Photographed by David Urbanke Styled by Alex Badia WWD.COM

AUGUST 2015, No. 4 No. 2015, AUGUST 52 Gucci’s silk shirt and Lanvin’s viscose and polyamide pants. Emporio Armani belt; Hermès sandals; Karen Karch necklace and rings; Gucci necklace and ring. Ovadia & Sons rayon cupro coat, Lanvin’s cotton tank top and Richard Chai’s wool and elastane pants. Gucci scarf. OPPOSITE: Billy Reid’s cotton and polyester blazer and cotton pants and Ermenegildo Zegna’s silk coat. Karen Karch necklace; Gucci necklace; Michael Kors sandals. Paul Smith’s wool suit. Paul Smith belt; Marc Jacobs scarf; Gucci ring; Karen Karch rings. J.W. Anderson’s metallic gabardine canvas jacket, Rick Owens’ cotton tank top and Joseph’s cotton and elastane pants. OPPOSITE: Dries Van Noten’s cupro robe, cotton blazer and wool pants. Lanvin belt; Karen Karch necklace; Gucci necklace. N.Hoolywood’s Tencel, polyester and polyurethane shirt and Robert Geller’s cotton and wool pants. Dunhill belt; Giorgio Armani hat; Robert Geller for Suicoke sandals. OPPOSITE: No. 21’s cotton vest and Duckie Brown’s cotton pants. No. 21 belt; Pringle of Scotland sandals.

MODELS: DANE BELL/VNY and ADAM BUTCHER/IMG FASHION ASSISTANT: KAYANA CORDWELL GROOMING: ELOISE CHEUNG using ORIBE HAIR CARE for WALTER SCHUPFER MANAGEMENT 64 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM Collections “Island life, from Capri to Catalina.” Michael Kors “The desert explorer“The desert and[World of sand, green, khakiandbrown.” CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER, BELSTAFF military-inspired pieces inapalette War Rats, II]BritishDesert with Frederik Dyhr, “Engineered supernova.” Jonathan Anderson J.W. ANDERSON

S p

a

c e “Wave chasers: nomads for theultimate ride.” traveling theworld Dean andDanCaten DSQUARED2

N o r t h

A

f

r i

C c a a

to thestars, creating p

utilitarian wardrobe

r i Designers drew from thedesert S

u r adventurers.

TRAVEL BUFFS

the ultimate f for modern inspiration

I

n

d

i a

M y a “This season’s origin

n

called Tom Harrison, anthropologist came from anamazing

Christopher Raeburn, CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN who isfamous for his trips to Borneo.”

m

a r

V

i

e

“Missoni men’s spring t

Angela Missoni country ofcountry India.” of aman’s emotional collection isthe[tale]

the exhilarating metamorphosis as he journeys through MISSONI n

B a o m

r

n

e o

“Our collection isderived “I’ve traveled to 15countries John Elliott JOHN ELLIOTT +CO. Asia feeling.” A New York-to-Southeast- a placewhere Icould alsodo already thisyear.” InMyramar, through experiences Ihad vividly striped garbthat “looked research onacolor palette.” running through Vietnam. I was curiousto runthrough like contemporary streetwear. Kim Jones he discovered atribewearing LOUIS VUITTON MEN’S ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, Map Illustration by MUTI

Anderson, Raeburn, Missoni and Vuitton photographs by Giovanni Giannoni; Kors by Thomas Iannaccone; Belstaff by Antonio Salgado; DSquared by Davide Maestri; Elliott by Rodin Banica For advertising inquiries, MATERIALS CLOSE Activewear October 14 ISSUE Week Dailies New York Fashion 10—17 September ISSUES wwd.com/wwdcareers Voice of Authority With theIndustry’s FASHION. BEAUTY. BUSINESS. Dreams Job ofyour Find the PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERNS,

A Full Service Shop To The Trade To The Shop Service A Full AND CHILDRENS WEAR CHILDRENS AND September 30 September Fine Fast Work 212-869-2699 Work Fast Fine PRODUCTIONS October 5 October FOR WOMEN, MEN please contact Shannon Fitzgerald |323-617-9094 Editorial Calendar MATERIALS CLOSE What’s Next inDenim October 21 ISSUE MATERIALS CLOSE Made inItaly 23 September ISSUE

October 7 9 September October 12 October 14 September

AUG 2015 No. 3 Fashion. Beauty. Business. Beauty p.Beauty 16 makeup brand. and skin-care sets anambitious The actress/mogul NEXT ACT ALBA’S JESSICA Milestones p. 30 accessories. in apparel and sourcing giant 50 years asaglobal Luen Thaimarks ENTERPRISE EXPANDING Fashion p. 9 10th anniversary. Simpson’sJessica for fragrance ontap Activewear, new AFTER 10 SIMPSON Top Stories to TheIndustry’s Fashion News From Breaking Subscribe to WWD.com today You Are Content Anywhere Access to Timely WWD.com Delivers | [email protected] MARKETPLACE UOE€11 EUROPE € 8 UK £ 3 $1 CANADA US $9.99 INDIA HK100 HONG KONG CHINA ¥80 JAPAN ¥1500 800 The New fashion itcallshome. inthecity Barneys New York isonamissionto make Yorkers

MATERIALS CLOSE MeetsFashion Tech ‘A’—Accessories October 27 ISSUE Dailies FashionMilan Week September 24, 25,28 ISSUES

October 13 October 16 October Feature p. 52 on theindustry and vital information new analysis, trends, Stay up-to-date on Forward FashionBe Subscribe today wwd.com/subscriptions MATERIALS CLOSE Intern’l Tradeshow Calendar Hot for theHolidays 11 November ISSUE Dailies Paris Fashion Week October 5,6,7 1,2, ISSUES

October 28 November 2 November at WWD.COM AUGUST 26, 2015

65 APPAREL & RETAIL Bridget Foley’s Diary CEO SUMMIT New Work Order 27—28 OCTOBER 2015

competitive than ever. In the white-collar world, Employment — it’s a changing world. ¶ Two recent media it won’t be enough to be merely the brightest and stories suggest just how much it’s changing while a third most well-educated with the most highly developed skills. The new workplace stars must also be the indicates that a considerable portion of the potential most driven, possessed with a powerful work ethic inclusive of a broadened sense of responsibility. workforce may be in for a rude awakening. ¶ The cover While Amazon came across as — what’s the word? — disgusting, some of its codified Leadership Prin- feature of the July/August print issue of The Atlantic proclaims: ciples make sense. One, “Dive Deep,” includes the notice that “no task is beneath [Amazon leaders].” “The End of Work” with the Which brings me to an irritant issue for fashion and fashion media over the last several years:

subhead, “Technology will interns. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s Dualstar INSIDE DEALS M&A Entertainment Group LLC is the latest to be hit by LISA CLYDE soon erase millions of jobs. a class-action suit, filed earlier in the month, for BANK OF AMERICA alleged malfeasance at The Row. The company The New MERRILL LYNCH Could that be a good thing?” follows Condé Nast, Hearst Corp. and Charlie Rose Advil among those charged. Upon first read of the Page Derek Thompson wrote a provocative “what Six report on the court filing, I thought, here we MARC S. COOPER if” based on what is — the ongoing replacement of go again. More stupid, spoiled kids, these perhaps Face of Fashion PETER J. SOLOMON human labor by technology. His analysis is a big-pic- emboldened by Condé’s out-of-court settlement COMPANY ture look at the greater societal ramifications of a with other stupid, spoiled kids in November. trend certain to continue, focused on the United The suit against The Row cites 50-hour weeks KATHY ELSESSER States: “Industriousness has served as America’s (the exploited came in at 8 or stayed until 7 some- GOLDMAN SACHS unofficial religion since its founding.…What might times — poor things!) and other affronts such happen if work goes away?” Citing academic as “organizing materials, photocopying, sewing, experts, he lays out and examines three schools of pattern-cutting,” along with “running personal thought: an enlightened-leisure utopia dependent errands for paid employees.” Maybe interns ran upon “the right government provisions”; a revival personal errands constantly, but interviewed by of the artisan spirit and, the most bleak, a “precar- At one of the most fascinating, Page Six, the one that came to lead plaintiff Sha- iat” working class going from task to task. hista Lalani’s mind: “The head technical designer The New York Times feature (Aug. 15) examin- quantifiably successful was like, ‘Go get me an Advil. I need this and this ing what it’s like to work at Amazon.com had the because I’m feeling sick and I have this meeting.’” entire working world abuzz. According to the piece, companies on earth, I recently had a conversation with a senior exec- “Inside Amazon: Wrestling Big Ideas in a Bruising work trumps all, period. utive at Penske Media Corp., which owns Fairchild, Workplace,” by Jodi Kantor and David Streitfeld, at about possibly reinstituting an internship program. one of the most fascinating, quantifiably successful He talked about various approaches while acknowl- companies on earth, work trumps all, period. edging the challenges, noting that h.r. deemed Supposedly in the interest of customer service, to today’s dollars and employed 758,611 people. an essential task he thought would qualify as not employees’ lives are subjugated to the needs and Today, Google is worth $370 billion with a work- sufficiently educational. whims of the world-spanning populace they serve, force of 55,000. That was for an unpaid/credit-only internship. no matter how unimportant the particular cus- Amazon’s reported practices and expectations Another way to go is to pay interns, in which case tomer fulfillment — near-instant delivery of mostly for its labor force may be extreme — or maybe not, interns can be assigned anything. That would mundane discretionary goods — nor how traumatic depending upon whom you ask. And some are eliminate the cultural bias inherent in unpaid/ the circumstances of the employee’s life up to and big-time employers, including tech-world types. for-credit internships — a significant issue worthy including cancer and the birth of a stillborn child. Marc Andreessen (@pmarca) tweeted: “Well, of consideration. But it’s separate from the bizarre Regardless, employees are expected to buck up, given the number of workplaces designed for communal mind-set of college-enrolled, profession- shut up and perform at maximum efficiency 100 underachievers to feel good about themselves...” ally unaccomplished young adults — at least enough percent of the time (more than 100 percent of the and continued defending Amazon throughout of them to comprise several class-action lawsuits official work time, including into the wee hours, the week. As for more clinical reaction, the stock — that they’re too good to perform entry-level but on a regular basis and while on vacation). And oh market resounded with a big “who cares?” Though essential tasks in fields to which they aspire. yes, covert trashing of colleagues is encouraged. along with the rest of the market, Amazon’s stock is One can attribute the temerity to naiveté or the The piece read like tales from white-collar Dickens. down significantly since the China sell-off late last arrogance of youth. Perhaps misguided advice from (Except for the reminder about the 2011 incident in week; on the Monday following the story, it was up. parents or academic advisers plays a part. If so, which ambulances were parked outside a stifling Even as some huge companies are working to that’s a problem. An internship should indeed be JOHN JAY hot warehouse in Allentown, Pa., in triple-digit allow employees greater work-life balance, these educational — it should educate as to the realities of FAST RETAILING heat, waiting to take those workers who passed out two stories suggest an increasingly competitive the workplace. The Times’ Amazon article should to the ER. That just reads like Dickens.) employment picture going forward. If The Atlantic be required reading for all involved constituencies. The Atlantic story is speculative, with a soupçon piece proves prescient, full-time employment will God willing, Amazon won’t provide a template of sci-fi, and the Amazon piece, about a single at some point no longer be the norm. Amazon is a for the standard workplace of the future. But the summits.wwd.com company based on (in-depth) anecdotal reporting. heralded innovator led by one of the most watched Bezos approach of expecting more and more from TO ATTEND: [email protected] 646.356.4722 TO SPONSOR: [email protected] 646.356.4719 But each resonates with certain large-scale facts. chief executive officers of our time and perhaps of employees is definitely the wave not of the future, Comparing telecommunications giants, Thompson all time, Jeff Bezos. It’s unlikely that others won’t but of now. Come on kids, organizing materials, ILLUSTRATOR: Anna Higgie for Art–Dept notes that in 1964, AT&T, then the most valuable take pages from his success. photocopying, sewing — not good enough for you? U.S. company, was worth $267 billion adjusted Future employment will likely be more Like, get me an Advil. ■ FAIRCHILD SUMMITS ANNUAL 66 AUGUST 2015, No. 4 WWD.COM PARTNERS EVENT SPONSORSEVENT