Mike Kelley's Studio

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www.omegawatches.com 26 Editor’s LEttEr 28 MasthEad 30 Contributors 32 on thE CovEr slam dunk Fashion is another way Carmelo Anthony is scoring this season. By Adrienne Gaffney 34 CoLuMnists 114 sourCEs 116 stiLL LifE alexander Wang Balenciaga’s newly appointed creative director shares a few of his favorite things. Photography by Ditte Isager

What’s News.

37 thE CausE Rockaway Food Truck Photography by Dan Martensen buy thE book Relative Bios Worth thE visit China’s Island Escape

40 fLashbaCk Keith Haring Revisited thE inspiration Patchwork for Men faMiLy trEE Xan Cassavetes

42 partnErship Bling Makes the Man Photography by Tamu McPherson thE bEauty of Extreme Grooming

44 thE shift Nashville’s Food Scene statEMEnt piECE Marble Marvels

46 baCk in styLE Power Flowers shop taLk Thrill of the Hunt

48 tiME MaChinEs hidden hands A secretive group of Swiss masterminds is creating the most complex and coveted watches in the world. By Michael Clerizo Photography by Alex Majoli

On the cOver Carmelo Anthony in a Rag & Bone sweatshirt and a Nike Jordan Dominate headband. this page Nike Jordan Melo T-shirt, Nike Jordan sweatpants, Nike Jordan M-9 shoes. Photography by Terry Richardson. Styling by David Farber. Grooming by Bobby McLean; tailoring by Leroy Gough at Lars Nord. melo time page 82 For details see Sources, page 114.

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The men’S FraGrance the shoe must go on page 70

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53 A MATTER OF CHOICE dolce & gabbana page 63 rockaway food truck page 37 Map out the perfect look for any venture, whether it’s a constructive meeting, a perilous trek or a daring deal, by paying attention to the details. Photography by David Hughes Styling by Justin Arroyo

THE EXCHANGE.

63 TRACKED Dolce & Gabbana Follow the design duo as they live a day as opulent as the classic film that inspires their work. By Derek Blasberg Photography by Matt Lever

66 THE CULT OF Margaret Howell With a utilitarian approach to luxury, the British designer has won legions of followers at home and abroad. By Gaby Wood

68 MENTOR/PROTÉGÉ The Art of Inspiration Rising art star Rashid Johnson pays homage to the abstract paintings of Sam Gilliam by curating an exhibition devoted to Gilliam’s early works. By Chloe Schama Photography by Matthu Placek

70 MADE BY HAND The Shoe Must Go On The oldest bespoke shoemaker in Europe is modernizing and expanding its product line, and still making footwear of exceptional quality. the art of inspiration page 68 By Kimberly Bradley

Photography by Andrew Phelps CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW PHELPS; MATTHU PLACEK; MATT LEVER; DAN MARTENSEN YEARS IN THE MAKING. MOMENTS FROM UNVEILING. SUMMER 2013

the escape artist page 88 e); PARADIS

men’s fashion issue

74 outWard bound THAN eR Leave the tailored confines of suits behind and go off fashion’s familiar grid in rugged, relaxed pieces STRANG that give a peak performance. oN ( Photography by Nathaniel Goldberg

Styling by Clare Richardson WATS

82 MELo tiME

Carmelo Anthony is stepping up his game and IeW); SIMoN v turning a sometimes hit-or-miss career into the the classical view page 96 stuff championships are made of. By Jason Gay CLASSICAL

Photography by Terry Richardson e TH

88 thE EsCapE artist oN ( LARSS

Last year the influential artist Mike Kelley shocked

the art world with his suicide. An account of his AS extraordinary life—and his troubled last days. ANDRe outward bound page 74 By Kelly Crow

Photography by Catherine opie F 10; oN o 96 thE CLassiCaL viEW eDITI .

Six rising stars from the world of dance, music, opera IN and theater put the spotlight on flawless style. Photography by Andreas Larsson

Styling by David Farber , 1: 24 x 18 ACH .e

102 stranGEr than paradisE IN Will the Philippine government’s ambitious plan to attract luxury tourism threaten its environmental wonders? , 7: 24 x 20 By Wells Tower Photography by Simon Watson GRAPHS oTo

108 CoLLECt it frank Lloyd Wright’s Millard house PH Own a Los Angeles jewel from the great master’s oeuvre. oMe

110 hoW to suCCEEd in fashion CIBACHR ) F 8 Without tryinG too hard ND ou

Before growing into a global fashion business, Acne B Studios played by a few counterintuitive rules it still New York’s most anticipated residential building. Ready for occupancy 2013.

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Photography by Annabel elston RG For a private appointment please call 212.570.1700 stranger than paradise page 102 Ahh...Youth! Outward bOund John varvatos henley, Calvin Klein Collection WWW.ONE57.COM ey, eL GoLDBe

pant and Stephen Webster chain. LL GET WSJ. SATuRdAy A Saturday-only subscription to The Wall Street Journal gives a weekly fix of smart style and culture. Includes OFF duTy, a guide to your not-at-work life; REVIEW, the best in ideas, books and the classical view Giorgio Armani suit, shirt and tie. e Ke IK ONE57—157 West 57th Street, New York, NY 10019 All imagesviews from any specificare artist’s Unit nor canrenderings, Sponsor warrant Sponsorwhether any suchhas viewsprovided will be modified these basedrenderings upon future constructionfor the purpose or demolition of inpresenting the area. The completeprospective offering purchasersterms are in an offeringwith planpossible available fromviews Sponsor.from Filecertain No. CD- Units10-0307. Sponsor:within theExtell BuildingWest57th Street LLC, whenC/O Extellthey are completed. Sponsor cannot guarantee the DevelopmentCompany, 805 Third Avenue, Floor,7th New York, NY10022. Equal Housing Opportunity. Theforanymaterials oftrademark ordisclosures Park Hyatt Residences™contained andinany marketing related marks materials; are trademarks. or(iii) has approved Neither orreviewed Hyatt anytheoffinancialCorporation an offer to sellprojectionsnor nor anyitsof a solicitation affiliates otheror financial(i) theis to buyofferor to residents information of residentialany in statescontained condominium and in or said jurisdictions materials Units; such as (ii)expected responsibleis in which revenues registration or expenses of ownership requirements of any Residential have not Condominium been fulfilled. Unit. This is neither M culture; and, of course, the monthly WSJ. Magazine. 1-888-681-9216 or www.subscribe.wsj.com/getweekend. For details see Sources, page 114. NATHANI

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ANYONE FOLLOWING THIS YEAR’S BASKETBALL SEASON knows the importance of food to the Sandy-devastated Rockaways, or artists Sam Gilliam and Rashid teamwork. But with even the most tightly knit crew, there’s often one player who Johnson, who have forged a mutually inspiring aesthetic bond, despite their 45-year practically blasts off the court and inspires his fellow athletes to play better, leap age difference. higher, score more. This season, it’s Carmelo Anthony of the New York Knicks, who One of the most compelling legacies of the late artist Mike Kelley—who tragi - caught our eye, not only for his MVP-worthy play, but also his off-court style, which cally took his own life last year at the height of his is as outspoken as it is original. (This is the man who brought back the headband in career—was his commitment to his fellow art- a way we haven’t seen since Björn Borg.) Melo turns out to be as easygoing as his ists in Los Angeles, some of whom moved there nickname implies. When I visited him on the set of our cover shoot, he was joking just to be near him. As seriously as he took his around with photographer Terry Richardson—a valued WSJ. contributor—about work, he never put himself on a pedestal. When their shared love of red flannel shirts. his art-neophyte brother apologized for laugh- Anthony is just one of many talents featured in this issue, devoted to men’s style. ing at the constellation of stuffed animals he’d This month we profile the Swedish renegades at Acne Studios, who built a fashion arranged for one of his museum installations, empire on a few simple counterintuitive rules, while photographer Nathaniel Goldberg Kelley patted him on the back, saying, “Good, shoots the new rugged style in the Utah desert. And for those who believe that a tie, it’s supposed to be funny.” rather than a T-shirt, is the correct accompaniment to a jacket, we highlight six up- and-coming stars of the performing arts, who model the best of classic men’s suiting. Kristina O’Neill Beyond shaping the players themselves, teamwork at its best serves a deeper Editor in Chief purpose—whether it’s Beastie Boy Mike D partnering with chef Sam Talbot to bring [email protected] Cartier ©2012 Haute Joaillerie collection 26 wsj. magazine Editor in ChiEf Kristina O’Neill

CrEativE dirECtor Magnus Berger

ExECutivE Editor Chris Knutsen

Managing Editor Brekke Fletcher

fashion nEws/fEaturEs dirECtor Elisa Lipsky-Karasz PublishEr Anthony Cenname global advErtising dirECtor Stephanie Arnold art dirECtor Pierre Tardif assoCiatE PublishEr/EuroPE Claudio Piovesana businEss ManagEr Julie Checketts sEnior Editor Megan Conway MarkEting dirECtor Jillian Maxwell

MEn’s stylE dirECtor David Farber ChairMan & ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, nEws CorPoration Rupert Murdoch fashion MarkEt/aCCEssoriEs dirECtor David Thielebeule ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, nEw nEws CorPoration Robert Thomson MarkEt Editor Preetma Singh PrEsidEnt, ChiEf ExECutivE offiCEr, dow JonEs & CoMPany, PublishEr, thE wall strEEt Journal Lex Fenwick Photo Editor Damian Prado Editor in ChiEf, thE wall strEEt Journal Gerard Baker sEnior dEPuty Managing Editor, thE wall strEEt Journal sEnior assoCiatE Editor Adrienne Gaffney Michael W. Miller Editorial dirECtor, wsJ. wEEkEnd Ruth Altchek CoPy ChiEf Minju Pak ChiEf rEvEnuE offiCEr, thE wall strEEt Journal ProduCtion ManagEr Scott White Michael F. Rooney gM, thE wall strEEt Journal Romy Newman rEsEarCh ChiEf John O’Connor ChiEf ProduCt offiCEr, dow JonEs Alisa Bowen vP MultiMEdia salEs Chris Collins, Ken DePaola, Junior dEsignEr Alex Konsevick Etienne Katz, Don Reis vP vErtiCal MarkEts Marti Gallardo Editorial assistant Raveena Parmar vP ad sErviCEs Paul Cousineau vP MarkEting & businEss dEvEloPMEnt Nina Lawrence fashion assistants Jane Chapman, Sam Pape ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting Paul Tsigrikes dirECtor, EvEnts & ProMotion Sara Shenasky wEb Editors Allison Lichter, Robin Kawakami, Seunghee Suh ad sErviCEs, MagazinEs ManagEr Elizabeth Bucceri ExECutivE dirECtor MarkEting sErviCEs Julie Abrams Contributing Editors Alexa Brazilian, Eva Chen, Michael Clerizo, Charlotte Druckman, WSJ. Issue 34, April 2013, Copyright 2013, Dow Jones Jacqui Getty, Malina Joseph Gilchrist, Joshua Levine, and Company, Inc. All rights reserved. See the magazine online at www.wsjmagazine.com. Reproduction in whole JJ Martin, Meenal Mistry, Liane Radel or in part without written permission is prohibited. WSJ. Magazine is provided as a supplement to The Wall Street Journal for subscribers who receive delivery of sPECial thanks Tenzin Wild the Saturday Weekend Edition and on newsstands. WSJ. Magazine is not available for individual retail sale. For Customer Service, please call 1-800-JOURNAL (1-800-568-7625), send email to [email protected], or write us at: 84 Second Avenue, Chicopee, MA 01020. For Advertising inquiries, please email us at [email protected]. For reprints, please call 800- 843-0008, email [email protected], or visit our reprints Web address at www.djreprints.com.

28 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_Masthead_03.indd 28 2/7/13 11:53 AM 02072013105442 contributors

nathaniel goldberg & clare richardson outward bound p. 74

In a fashion story that upends conventions, photographer Nathaniel Goldberg (left) and stylist Clare Richardson found themselves, ® ® appropriately enough, showcasing spring fashion against single- THE CITI / AADVANTAGE CARD digit temperatures at the Amangiri resort in Canyon Point, Utah. “The concept of this shoot was to blend Andre—who is not your classic young model, but a more mature man—into a strong desert THE JOURNEY IS JUST BEGINNING. location,” says Richardson. “At the same time, we wanted him to look somewhat lost in his environment.”

wells tower & simon watson

stranger than paradise p. 102 R be Writer Wells Tower (far left) ventured to the Philippines to investigate the R nation’s new tourism economy and arrived on the island of Palawan with a stoic disposition that was short-lived. “I pompously consider myself to

be someone who hates to idle on beaches, so I figured I’d be immune to its tesy of simon watson. R ou charms,” he says. “But how easily we are gentled by ocean breezes, frond tesy of david fa C R ; R noises and coconuts equipped with drinking straws. Seconds into my stay, ou C I felt happily lobotomized by Palawan’s pleasantness.” Tower, author of

the award-winning short-story collection Everything Ravaged, Everything sson; R Burned, was followed in his travels by photographer Simon Watson. eas la tesy of wells towe R tesy of and R R ou C om left: Cou lynn yaeger & annabel elston R how to succeed in fashion without trying too hard p. 110 ow, f R om left: When fashion writer Lynn Yaeger (left) traveled to Stockholm to report on R ond

Acne Studio’s burgeoning empire, she admits she needed a bit of schooling ow, f seC R

about what makes the fashion line so beloved. “I first heard of Acne when th R my friends began extolling the virtues of their jeans. I don’t wear jeans, dson.

but anyway, the name horrified me. Can you imagine going into a shop ha R RiC

and saying, ‘Do you have Acne?’ ” After spending several days with Acne’s e R

Jonny Johansson and Mikael Schiller, who were photographed in Japan by la Annabel Elston, Yaeger is now wise to the brand’s virtues—as well as the C unorthodox business practices that launched it. ® ® ®

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R Learn about all the enhanced beneﬁts at citi.com/journey LOVE THE JOURNEY. andreas larsson & david farber the classical view p. 96

Six of this generation’s brightest talents in the classical arts, each wearing tesy of lynn yaege R

suits as timeless as their artistic pursuits—what could be easier or more tesy of nathaniel goldbe R elegant? It turns out that managing the divergent schedules of in-demand performers, whose appearances take them around the globe in any given week, was quite a feat for photographer Andreas Larsson (far left) and om left: Cou R om left: Cou

Men’s Style Director David Farber. But for Larsson, the decision to divide R

the shoot between on-location and in-studio sessions was a stroke of ow, f FreeCheckedBag:Baggagefeewaiverisfordomestictravelanddoesnotapplytooversizedoroverweightbags. R ® genius. “Mixing the theater settings with studio images makes it feel mod- d Double Miles: Earn 2 AAdvantage miles for every $1 you spend on eligible American Airlines purchases. American Airlines reserves the right to change the AAdvantage® programanditstermsandconditionsatanytimewithoutnotice,andtoendtheAAdvantage® program with six months’ notice. hi R ® top Row, f ern while still keeping the feel of classic portraiture,” Larsson says. • t American Airlines is not responsible for products or services offered by other participating companies. For complete AAdvantage program details, visit www.aa.com/aadvantage. AmericanAirlines, AAdvantage,AAdvantagewithScissorEagledesignandScissorEagledesignaretrademarksofAmericanAirlines,Inc.Citibankisnotresponsibleforproductsorservicesofferedbyothercompanies. Cardmemberbeneﬁtsaresubjecttochange. ©2013Citibank,N.A.Citi,Citibank,CitiwithArcDesignandCitiPlatinumSelectareregisteredservicemarksofCitigroupInc. 30 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_Contribs_03.indd 30 2/7/13 12:49 PM 02072013115902 Approved with warnings ON THE COVER 800-457-TODS SLAM DUNK Fashion is another way Carmelo Anthony is scoring this season.

IT DIDN’T TAKE LONG for Carmelo Anthony—who, in his third season with the New York Knicks, is stirring hopes of breaking the team’s four-decade championship drought—to get comfortable in front of photographer Terry Richardson’s lens. Although the two had previ- ously met last fall, when Richardson shot him for V Man magazine, the thought that something telepathic was gives us a chance to express editorially what we can’t on afoot occurred when Anthony walked into Richardson’s a daily basis. It shakes things up a bit.” studio: The basketball superstar had on a red plaid Men’s Style Director David Farber was happily sur- shirt very similar to the one worn by the photographer. prised by Anthony’s relaxed outlook toward dressing. Melo’s shift toward the sort of studiously casual look “What I thought was really interesting about Carmelo is favored by Richardson is no accident. As he has matured that he was very willing—even fearless—when it came from a college player—drafted to the NBA the same year to trying on different outfits for the shoot,” says Farber. NAL as his friend and on-court rival LeBron James of the “I wasn’t sure how he would react when I told him I Miami Heat—he has become more and more attuned to wanted to keep a bit of his personal style in the story, but matters of style, attending fashion shows and advocat- he was all for mixing things up until we found the right ing for out-of-the-box designers like Simon Spurr and balance. In one shot he is wearing a smoking jacket from Rag & Bone. His leap to a glossy magazine cover was Ferragamo paired with sweatpants from Armani. He had helped along by Khalilah Williams-Webb, his personal a ‘let’s play’ attitude, which makes my job a pleasure.” stylist, who now considers finding designer looks for Only one part of the session gave the all-star a 6-foot-8-inch frame second nature. “Working with pause: when Richardson asked him to spin a basket- Carmelo for the past four years, I am pretty much on ball on his finger long enough to capture on film. A feat autopilot for sports gear, like headbands and arm that, like so much else, he nevertheless made look easy. sleeves,” she says. “So I love fashion shoots, because it —Adrienne Gaffney

A MAN IN FULL From top: Anthony and Terry Richardson pose on set; playing on Christmas Day, 2012; with his wife, Alani “La La” Vasquez, at Vogue’s Met Ball in 2012; in 2002, Anthony,

right, then a high school senior, faced fellow star LeBron James. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY TERRY RICHARDSON STUDIO; NBAE/GETTY IMAGES; GREGORY PACE/BEIMAGES; PHIL MASTURZO/AKRON BEACON JOUR

32 WSJ. MAGAZINE

0413_WSJ_OnTheCover_03.indd 32 2/6/13 6:35 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT soapbox EDUCATION IS THE FOUNDATION FOR A BETTER FUTURE. Visit www.montblanc.com/signatureforgood to learn about our Signature for Good initiative THE COLUMNISTS and to build a better future - brick by brick. With the Signature for Good Collection, Montblanc WSJ. asks six luminaries to weigh in on a single topic. This month: Color. supports UNICEF’s education projects in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. Montblanc will donate 10% of the retail price excluding VAT/Sales Tax to support UNICEF’s education programs in these regions and help children pave their way to a successful, self-determined, and happy life.

FRANÇOIS JOHN KELLY IRIS GAV I N LEATRICE NARS BALDESSARI WEARSTLER APFEL BROWN EISEMAN

“I have never believed “When I was a painter, “Color is everything—it’s “I never met a color I “Color is a reality. The “Colors elicit different in rules when it comes I believed in relational more powerful than didn’t like. I approach white spaces of a contem- responses at different to makeup. Sometimes color; that is: This color geometry, it just depends it the way I approach porary art gallery are times. Much of our reac- the most dissonant color goes nicely with that on how you use it. It’s the all other things: totally only a social convention to color comes from combinations can be color. After I left painting first thing I start with unintellectual, com- tion—one that will childhood. For example, the most interesting. I in the late ’60s, I began when I’m working on my pletely on gut feeling. I inevitably be replaced by does a yellow-green evoke always encourage women exploring photography, fashion collections or try to approach things yet another convention of Kermit the Frog, or mon- to experiment with bold and merging painting interior projects. with a painterly eye so a different kind. sters under the bed? color in the way they and photography into a When I’m designing a that if I’m designing a Color is in everything. Selecting the Color might experiment with hybrid. Since then I’ve room, I always look at the room or putting together It is everywhere, equally: of the Year—Pantone colorful accessories. used color as a signal. adjacent rooms, or what’s an outfit, I think about in the whitest gallery 17-5641 Emerald—was What I do recommend is Red equals danger, green outside the window. I it as if it were a canvas and in the grayest bank. the result of our antennas keeping everything in equals safety, etc. While recently did a New York and needed just a little Color in galleries is to be alert to the progression moderation, and if you’re these are not universal townhouse, and there was spot of red here or a little expected, but if I were to of a shade. I’ve been going to experiment with meanings, it does help a brick red building vis- black over there. choose, I prefer the colors doing this for over 25 color on the face, make me escape relational ible through the windows. My apartment is a I find in my everyday life. years. I’m frequently sure you blend. color. Central to my work I chose a beautiful steel little bit on the wild side, I like the colors in flags. I asked: ‘How can I make We are not afraid to is absence, and when I blue for the room, and the done in parrot colors: like the colors in money, the best color choices for be a bit different—to omit part of an image, red gave it so much depth. dark browns and bright the color of cars, of a product or an environ- make shades that are that part is painted Texture is also very blues, greens and reds. I sheets, of magazines all ment?’ People shouldn’t unexpected. Color never white. My favorite color important. A matte have friends who love to in a row at Hudson News think only in terms of the exists in a void; the is blue, but I guess that’s format or a lacquered come here but say that at the airport. I like the latest ‘hot color,’ as there secret is contrast. When everybody’s favorite format makes color read when they go home to different colors of credit are pragmatic consider- I create makeup shades, color. An art dealer once very differently. And their apartment done in cards in a wallet. I like the ations—checking out the I like honest, bold colors, told me that people avoid people forget that white beige or celadon, they color of candy wrappers, I competition, knowing almost flashy. I invented paintings with purple is a color: Ten differ- find it more peaceful. like the color of terrorist- your target audience. the color Orgasm as a in them, and he has to ent shades of white can Strangely, these vibrant threat alerts, I like the Separating your profes- blush shade in 1999. discount them by 20 make an impact as strong colors are very peaceful colors of Republicans sional self from your Looking back, I think the percent. The door of my as malachite green. to me. If I had to live in a and Democrats. I like personal feelings about

combination of the name house is painted orange Sometimes clients tell celadon or a beige room, the color of rubber tires. color is most important. ENDORSE ANY BRAND OR PRODUCT. and the shade made it so so visitors can find me, ‘I’m afraid of color I would get very nervous. These are colors that talk Concepts about color

popular. It’s both cool it—another example of but I like it.’ I tell them to Color’s a great mood to me eye to eye. Someone change. Brown was once NOT and warm, peach and color as signal. The only look at what’s inside their swinger. I think it’s one of chose them for me. They associated with dirt. Now pink, with a pop of shim- mistake with color that closet. There will usually the most sensual things are there to be looked at it’s described as ‘earthy’ mer for a natural flush of I have regretted is once be one color they feel in the world. I just can’t as much as a painting. and ‘robust,’ which prob- color and highlight. crossing an intersec- good in, which means that picture a world without Art is everything we ably has to do with coffee For me, color and light tion against a red light. I they will look good in a color. I don’t think I could make—everything we culture. UNICEF DOES go hand in hand. All col- almost got killed.” room of that color. live without it.” see and everything we There are no longer ors can be amazing in the Color makes people name. And that includes hard rules. Sometimes a right context—I couldn’t happy. Living without color. Color of any kind.” color is simply associated choose one as a favorite.” color is like living with- with a brand. Coke is red out love.” wherever you go.” Nars is founder of Nars, Wearstler is a fashion and Brown is owner of Gavin Brown’s Eiseman is executive director a cosmetics company. Baldessari is an artist. interior designer. Apfel is a design consultant. Enterprise, an art gallery. of the Pantone Color Institute. visit and shop montblanc.com 34 wsj. magazine the world of culture & style what’s news. april 2013 what’s news 20,000 free meals. “We see the same people every Plate Lunch will give food day,” McKinley adds, pointing out a woman carrying a away for free until the summer, plastic bag for takeout. “They’ve come to count on it.” when the truck will become a key McKinley and Diamond, two old Montauk surfing player in a plan to teach Rockaway pals, arrived at the idea for Plate Lunch after driv- kids business and nutrition skills. ing out to volunteer the weekend after Sandy. While They have plans to open a com- there was no shortage of supplies or personnel, they munity garden—maintained by identified a desperate need for hot food. So Talbot, local school children—where the another friend and surfing aficionado, who’d been vegetables grown will be sold at the executive chef at the Surf Lodge, came with trays a farm stand, also to be staffed by of provisions, feeding both the newly homeless as locals. All of the proceeds will go well as responders. A week later, he was standing on back into the garden. the corner of 45th and Beach Channel Drive, cooking On that January afternoon, with food on a massive grill. McKinley pushed the idea one the temperature hovering around step further, renting an old Swiss Chalet truck from 20 degrees, summer seems years a man in Tennessee. Just 11 days after the storm, the away. The reggae tune “Dreadlock ad hoc program was fully operational. Holiday” blasts out of a nearby Since then, the Plate Lunch team has raised over speaker, warming the afternoon $200,000 to pay for food and the services of two full- air. Diamond dances in place as he time employees to run operations. And while they fills up containers with piping hot chicken thighs. “The wArming trenD serve the same thing every day—marinated chicken best thing about this is that it lifts people’s mood,” From left: Talbot, Diamond and with black beans, veggies and rice—the meal is fill- Diamond says. “At times like these, a little bit of hope, a McKinley tending to ing and healthy. little bit of happiness, it goes a long way.” —Alex French grilled chicken.

buy the book worth the trip going the DiStAnCe relative BioS china’S iSlanD eScape From left: Sam a)

Talbot, Jon Rose, NY Robert McKinley and When doeS biogrAphy get truly personal?

Mike Diamond in the When a family member has written it. aL (Sa Rockaways, New York. NT Pannonica de Koenigswarter (née Rothschild) ie R is the titular heroine of The Baroness (Knopf),

a story of rebellion by documentarian aRiN o

the cause Hannah Rothschild, who, like her great aunt, ND prizes candor over propriety. Born in 1913 Ma SY to the world’s wealthiest family at the time, e RT Nica—as she was known—abandoned her the giving truck children, husband and social position ); cou to become a jazz patroness. She forged Four unlikely friends—including Mike D from the Beastie Boys and tv chef intimate friendships with Charlie Parker and Thelonious Monk, who had a heart attack at

Sam talbot—have banded together to bring hot meals to new York’s hard-hit rockaway Beach her cat-filled Weehawken, New Jersey, home. iN RaMiN (booKS Brothers Emanuel (Random House) have kinDreD SpiritS RT afterh urricane Sandy. Six months later, their food program is only getting bigger. below: Nica with jazz legend Dubbed ‘the hawaii of china,’ the tropical all achieved success: Rahm, the mayor of Thelonious Monk, from F. Ma Chicago, in politics; Ari, as the uber-Holly- Time magazine, 1964. enclave of Sanya on hainan island boasts ica);

wood macher; and Ezekiel, a some of the cleanest air in the world and N

photography by dan martensen ND bioethicist and the book’s author, summer all year round. But like mainland S a in academics. And finally, Maya china, development in china has reached a iou

Angelou revisits her own story LoN

fever pitch, with over 14,000 hotel rooms due he

After hurricAne SAndy transformed New York corners of Rockaway remain unimproved. a nonprofit that provides clean drinking water to for Mom & Me & Mom (Random T City’s Rockaway peninsula into a pile of rubble and One constant in the neighborhood is Rockaway impoverished communities, runs refills of rice, beans House), an account of her for completion by 2015, including from luxury debris last October, the coastal enclave experienced Plate Lunch Truck, an old beat-up food truck that’s and chicken to the tables where Mike Diamond—bet- relationship with her mother, ( aGeS iM

outposts such as Bulgari, andaz, park hyatt an outpouring of support from police, firefighters been offering hot, free meals—up to 500 a day—to ter known as Mike D of the Beastie Boys, and now an Vivian Baxter, who left Angelou and private citizens looking to lend a hand. Together residents five days a week since Sandy. occasional curator and self-described “Brooklyn dad in the care of her grandmother and Shangri-la (the Mandarin oriental, above, TTY /Ge they brought contractor bags and cleaning sup- On a frigid January day, the food truck’s four found- and wannabe surf bum”—ladles out food. A line of when she was three and with has already opened). only time will tell whether

plies, helped residents gut and renovate their homes ers buzz with activity: Former Top Chef contestant Rockaway residents forms, snaking down the block whom she reunited a decade expansion plans are overoptimistic, but with TuReS and delivered bottles of water and food to nearby Sam Talbot, currently a chef, author and TV person- away from the butane-warmed buffet. “A lot of people later. Their reconciliation has virgin rainforests and an impressive lineup of 13 e Pic apartment buildings. But as the months since the ality, grills chicken thighs; Robert McKinley, creator here don’t know where their next hot meal is coming all the unflinching honesty and superstorm continued to pass, that outpouring of Ruschmeyer’s and Montauk’s Surf Lodge, chops the from,” says Diamond, who, along with the other Plate poetry of Angelou’s prior works. professional standard golf courses, this South Me & LiF

inevitably diminished—even as conditions in many piping hot meat; Jon Rose, founder of Waves for Water, Lunch founders, has already given away more than > —Brekke Fletcher china Sea gem is primed for a visit. —Alicia Kirby Ti

wsj. magazine 37 38 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_WhatsNews_03.indd 37 2/7/13 3:34 PM 0413_WSJ_WhatsNews_02.indd 38 2/7/13 11:13 AM 02072013143626 02072013103721 Approved with warnings what’s news h

flashback family tree AC AmericAn grAFFiTi indie dynAsTy

sidewalks, subway ads, concrete blockades—no Gena rowlands & city surface was off limits to the New York–based John cassavetes AndrA)

visual artist Keith Haring, whose trademark ex

featureless figures seem to radiate optimistic AL energy. A close friend of contemporaries Kenny , zoe, Fdr ny) #25 &26, 1984, 48 x 102 in. (e Scharf and Jean-Michel Basquiat, Haring died CK ed, ( S (ni of complications from AIDS in 1990. Now, more L

than two decades after his death, his work is being ge ntit reconsidered—and revered—anew. On the heels of U

last year’s large-scale Brooklyn Museum tion; A

exhibition of Haring’s early work comes “Keith nd Haring: The Political U Line” at the Musee ring Fo

d’Art Moderne in Paris. A And john); getty imA hA Opening April 19, the 250- work show represents one S (gen of the biggest retrospec- orbi nn/C

tives of Haring’s work A to date. Just before that, at the Dallas Art Fair in ettm in, 144 x 144 in. © Keith Texas (April 12–14), two nick cassavetes Zoe cassavetes AUL of his diptychs will be on display. Created in 1984 as part of a ecstatic line rp A From top: An untitled mural along New York’s FDR Drive, the 13-foot panels are Haring L t Keith haring artwork at his democratic, exuberant best. “There’s a lot of street art and iny from 1982; part of his Com (Kimono); © b graffiti that’s been rediscovered or repositioned—suddenly this mural for the Fdr is classic,” says the Fair’s director, Chris Byrne. “We have enough drive in new york. K on V L in

time to look back and see that now.” —Megan Conway imonoboy. iny Sy K S, V rte te A mir

the inspiration Ay); CoU nw pATch TricK

alexandra “xan” cassavetes itton (rU A textile technique that was VU “The lasT Thing you wanT to do when you are a kid is U dhAbi, United ArAb e

once the epitome of humble Sy LoUiS what your parents do,” says director Alexandra “Xan” rte thrift has gotten the deluxe Cassavetes, the eldest daughter of the pioneering tion, Ab eC CoU treatment by designer film director John Cassavetes—Husbands, A Woman LL

Under the Influence—and actor Gena Rowlands, who tion; A An Co

starred in many of her late husband’s films. (Her nd Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton. hy U For spring, the French house siblings are directors, too: Older brother Nick’s credits nA include The Notebook, while younger sister, Zoe, An AL

is selling men’s looks in the directed Broken English.) Still, the family business has hA ring Fo md antique Japanese patchwork proved irresistible to grown-up Xan: This month hA sees the release of her first feature film,Kiss of the © Keith

Damned, a showy vampire flick with instant midnight- AL

style known as boro. The mA bint movie appeal, starring Joséphine de la Baume and pieces’ indigo-dyed scraps ALA Roxane Mesquida. “My dad was super hyper, goofy and have an artisanal element that’s brilliant,” says the 47-year-old. “And in contrast my Aint on met

lacking in most folk-inspired mom is very composed and elegant—but she is surpris- L p ingly funny.” Operating under her father’s formidable me denim out there—the label shadow might seem daunting, but Xan, who fronted an L.A. hard-core band and has two children with Led, 1982, SheiKhA S folk art From enlisted Japanese craftsmen above: A boro her ex-husband, music producer Rick Ross, doesn’t feel runway look from for the effort. And they contrast competitive—she simply reveres her father too Ay pAint on enA Louis Vuitton; the much for that. “There’s John, and then there’s every- collection’s jacket. hA ring, Untit nicely with the label’s nautical L) S pr For details see body else—I’m in the same category as everybody else.” ne Keith Sources, page 114. spring collection. —Darrell Hartman —Elisa Lipsky-Karasz pA

40 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_WhatsNews3_02.indd 40 2/6/13 5:12 PM 02062013164812 Approved with warnings what’s news

PARTNERSHIP BLING MAKES THE MAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TAMU McPHERSON

“MEN AND JEWELRY, it’s all a bit ridiculous,” says Delfina Delettrez. Though the Rome-based jewelry designer regularly showers women’s wrists in curtains of gold fringe and their fingers in diamond-encrusted black widows, the idea of a man sporting anything more than his first communion cross gives this glamorous scion of the Fendi family the shivers. “Rings and bracelets on men…” she starts, rolling her eyes in mock disgust. “It all looks messy and wrong to me.” Be that as it may, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the dynamic co–creative directors of the newly relaunched Kenzo label, asked Delettrez to give masculine bling a shot for their fall 2013 menswear collection. Having already collaborated with them on imaginative jewelry for women—think resin-covered walnuts—Delettrez was given carte blanche. “We wanted her to really imagine what could be cool and new for men,” says Leon, who also co-owns the directional boutique Opening Ceremony with Lim. “We wanted it rethought.” Delettrez resolved her conflicting creative emotions by snubbing the male body altogether, opting instead for jewelry that adorns clothing, not skin—clasped boldly on to a lapel or discreetly fastened along the waist of a felted jacquard sweatshirt, “like a modern version of a men’s brooch,” SHINE ON Clockwise from above: says Leon. From button covers to tie clips, all crafted in brass that gleams like silver, the pieces add Humberto Leon, Delfina Delettrez and unexpected flash to an outfit. As for the more surreal-looking offerings, like a smooth metal hand- Carol Lim in Florence, Italy, after the Kenzo show; bracelet from the collec- kerchief that burrows into a nylon jacket pocket like a robotic silk hankie, Delettrez sees it as fashion tion; model wearing the lightning bolt armor for the future: “It’s a bit bionic man.” —J.J. Martin clip. For details see Sources, page 114.

THE BEAUTY OF EXTREME Signature Treatment Expert Opinion Product Pick GROOMING

Smartening one’s looks is AT KATE SOMERVILLE, a warming SAYS DR. DENNIS GROSS, a a time-honored male Age-defying, treatment called Laser Genesis New York–based dermatologist stimulates collagen. The Ritz-Carlton and skin-care expert, “I have been Shiseido Men’s obsession. Here, four new wrinkle-free in Marina Del Rey, California, offers telling my male patients for years Deep Wrinkle approaches to the art a man-about-town facial featuring to be more diligent about using Corrector face a Natura-Bisse algo-therapy mask, antiaging regimens to treat and ﬁrming cream of vanity, from pampered salicylic acid and willow bark. prevent ﬁne lines and wrinkles.” ($52) head to polished toe. IF YOU’RE a facial-hair “A CLEAN-SHAVEN look was Perfectly neophyte, pay a visit to Floyd’s the status quo for so long, but Brooklyn 99—a retro-rock-inspired today facial hair is the new cool,” Grooming’s coiffed Denver-based barbershop says Jorge Cosano, brand Williamsburg that’s expanded to 61 branches director for Baxter of California, Whiskers facial hair nationwide—for a beard or a high-end grooming store based Classic Beard moustache trim. in West Hollywood, California. Oil ($29)

AT HOME, opt for BB Creams— “BB CREAMS are a men’s beauty Flawless, the all-in-one moisturizer, toner, product movement waiting to Lab Series sunscreen and skin protector. At the happen,” says makeup artist Brian BB Tinted blemish-free dermatologist’s office? Ask for the Duprey. “As soon as men realize the Moisturizer YAG laser, which emits high-intensity one-stop shopping of BB creams, they Broad Spectrum skin pulses of light to remove blemishes are likely to never go without one.” SPF 35 ($39) without scarring.

THE RITZ-CARLTON in Lake ACCORDING TO nail artist Jin Buffed and Tahoe offers a gingerbread Soon Choi: “Hipsters, musicians manicure and pedicure, which and young men in fashion tend Deborah manicured pampers hands and feet with brown to be bolder in their approach to Lippman’s IN A LATHER A 1933 French sugar scrub and caramel lotion. nail grooming, favoring certain Flat Top newspaper illustration of a nails colors such as black, navy blue, Matte nail

TO bE ONE OF a KIND gentleman receiving a hot shave. gray and dark green.” polish ($18) F. MARTIN RAMIN (JEWELRY); FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY); LEEMAGE (ILLUSTRATION); COURTESY OF VENDORS (PRODUCTS)

NEW YORK baL HaRbOUR bEVERLY HILLS LaS VEGaS bRIONI.cOm 42 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_WhatsNews4_03.indd 42 2/7/13 3:32 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT what’s news

PARTNERSHIP BLING MAKES THE MAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TAMU McPHERSON

THE BEAUTY OF EXTREME Signature Treatment Expert Opinion Product Pick GROOMING

gentleman receiving a hot shave. gray and dark green.” polish ($18) F. MARTIN RAMIN (JEWELRY); FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY); LEEMAGE (ILLUSTRATION); COURTESY OF VENDORS (PRODUCTS)

42 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_WhatsNews4_03.indd 42 2/7/13 3:32 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT what’s news

the shift SOUThERn COMfORT

Boston Born and nashville raised, brothers Max and Benjamin Goldberg—29 and 33 years old, respec- tively—have almost single-handedly ignited their adopted hometown’s food scene. They are responsible for a collection of restaurants and nightlife venues that is transforming Music City into a national culinary destination. In 2006, they founded Strategic Hospitality, a company dedicated to importing a dose of Manhattan-style sophistication to a land of honky- tonks and rhinestones. “We wanted to create the kinds of spaces we would frequent ourselves, as well as create jobs, work with local farmers and invest in the community,” says Benjamin. Six years later, the Goldbergs’ $10 million statement piece portfolio ranges from trailer park–themed Paradise Park to the speakeasy-inspired MARBLE MARvELS Patterson House, on the roof of which is Aerial, a swanky private event space.

The romantic Goth fashions ;

There’s also a handful of other successful TS

of designer Rick Owens— or NIGHTLIFE’S spots located everywhere from within a NEw FACES baseball stadium to a historic hotel. Their often made from sinuous From left: Brothers S & reS

best-known venture to date is 18-month- el Benjamin, left, and Max black leather and lacquered Goldberg; inside The old The Catbird Seat. Tiny and perpetually python—might look out of Catbird Seat’s kitchen. booked a month in advance—with a kitchen ni hoT so open it’s literally surrounded by dining place set against a chintz oM

tables—it offers a seasonal prix-fixe menu from chefs Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger, who give a mod-South- sofa. But given that he’s also TeSy

ern spin to the techniques they learned in prestigious kitchens like Denmark’s Noma and The French Laundry a furniture designer, Owens’s our in Napa Valley, California. Restaurateurs have approached the Goldbergs about expanding their concepts Brutalist vision has a home of beyond the land of Dixie. But for now, they’re sticking close to home. Says Benjamin, “This is a city that truly wants you to succeed.” —David Kaufman its own. In March, Salon 94, at Design Days Dubai—the TeSy huSk; C our

second iteration of the United and Salon 94, new york ST Arab Emirates furniture Tel; C WhAT’S nEXT In nAShvILLE fair—unveils 10 new pieces e ho

he designed with his wife, MiTaG TeSy oF The arTi

Michele Lamy, who “cajoled, he her

prodded, encouraged, praised our S, C TeSy T

and bewitched” the Parisian he artisans who crafted them, our T); C according to Owens.

The white marble designs— ird S ea TB nods to his heroes, sculptor Constantin Brancusi and hermitage hotel husk nashville music city center Ble, 35.43 x 19.69 x 29.92 inC architect Le Corbusier— and The Ca douBle h Farms This spring marks the arrival Nashville is primed to GS e e Mar er T At the historic Hermitage Hotel, included a chair with a moose B

of Husk Nashville—the second welcome nearly half a dozen hi ol look for an increased focus on U.S. location of Sean Brock’s new hotels in 2013. The most antler arm (above). Design is locally raised produce and meats, celebrated “new Southern” anticipated will also be the Ty (G

“all about creating a universe ali thanks to the hotel’s recently Charleston eatery. Set within largest: the 800-room Omni T opened Double H Farms—a 245- a restored 19th-century Nashville, the anchor hotel based on gentle grace and S pi acre working estate in nearby the odd grand gesture,” aG Chair, 2012, w redbrick townhouse, Husk’s of the massive $625 mil- ST

Dickson County. The growing TeGiC ho Tennessee debut marks lion Music City Center says Owens. “I’m not saying MB Double H beef herd will supply ra

Brock’s return to a town he project. Just next door is the S To I hit the nail on the head ST the hotel’s Capitol Grille lived in for nearly three years. Country Music Hall wen with meat, while the gardens will of Fame, currently in the midst every time, but my efforts TeSy our provide vegetables. of a $75 million expansion. are very genuine.” —E.L.K. C riCk o ONLY AT PAUL STUART PAULSTUART.COM 44 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_WhatsNews5_03.indd 44 2/7/13 3:33 PM 02072013143641 Approved with warnings what’s news

shop talk thrill of the hunt

Online men’s shopping has become something it never used to be: addictive. A new generation of e-commerce emporia are not only bringing a wide world of desirable objects to your fingertips, but also presenting them in refreshingly creative and compelling ways. Men who once approached personal shopping with a grim sense of mission are being persuaded to browse, fantasize and maybe even take a fashion tutorial. “If the last 10 years of shopping were all about search, the next 10 are about discovery—showing me things I didn’t know I wanted,” says e-commerce entrepreneur Michael Phillips Moskowitz, founder of Bureau of Trade, a site that offers a cornucopia of pre-owned objects culled from all corners of the world. Here, five of the top online destinations for exploratory shopping. —D.H. lk)

BIRCHBOX

Ideal for entry-level groomers, Birchbox is a fast-growing subscrip- Rs (shop tA tion service that sends members a monthly package of trial-size ndo goods. Full-size versions of everything are sold on the website, which encourages visitors to stay for lessons on how to “eradicate the uni- brow” or tie a half-Windsor knot. “More and more men are willing to RtEsy of vE shop across different categories,” explains owner Katia Beauchamp. y (bulb); y cou (bulb); HICKOREE’S “For guys, a lot of what we might call window-shopping online is aes- RAR

thetic research,” says Hickoree’s cofounder Emil Corsillo. The site’s t lib AR bread and butter is U.S.-made casualwear and Americana-oriented

back in style Japanese brands. There’s also an amusing selection of nostalgic toys EmAn

(Wiffle Balls) and candy (Big League Chew) that stops short of hipster idg R

poWer floWerS cliché. The in-house brand has some of the coolest neckwear going. E b

historical provenance can enhance the ction/th E appeal of everything from lace frocks to STAG Launched in late 2009 with “Provisions for Men” as its slogan, this

french wine—and now, vintage flower bulbs, Austin store has a Texas-size embrace of timeless high-quality goods. AtE coll iv varieties of which trace back to the 17th There’s a regional flavor to the work boots and denim jackets, but )/p R

century. not unlike the “tulip mania” that it’s the selection of reinvigorated classics—Pendleton blankets, Save ER Khaki chinos—that make it a winner, not to mention a website that gripped Golden Age holland, centuries-old perfectly channels the shop’s savvy but not-too-fussy personality. varieties of heritage flowers like hyacinths and daylilies have become status symbols BUREAU OF TRADE

for discerning gardeners. “the virtue in R And pEncil on pAp This Web-trawler’s paradise digs up (mostly) vintage objects from

planting vintage bulbs is in the wide range far-flung places: Honda motorcycles from Japan, South African colo ER of forms, shapes and colors, not to mention buffalo and springbok-hide rifle cases, the Vulcain military watches

the scent and uniqueness of varieties,” says favored by Truman and Eisenhower. The San Francisco–based outfit , (wAt garden designer Madison Cox. for Scott sells some stock directly, although the majority still comes from carefully vetted merchants. Kunst, who runs old house Gardens—an

A-list destination for heirloom selections stelle rynveld e that ships throughout the u.S.—the appeal UNIONMADE Once little more than an advertisement for its brick-and-mortar

is indicative of a larger phenomenon: madame

stores—now two in the Bay Area and one in L.A.—Unionmade’s web- E,

“it’s part of a worldview that says, What it site has become an e-commerce hub. Online now accounts for half its A we have isn’t limitless.” —Adrienne Gaffney business, and it’s easy to see why: The straightforward approach high- osthw

lights founder Todd Barket’s unerring taste in emerging designers, R bulb to blooM A watercolor-and-pencil handcrafted goods and exclusive collaborations (with Alden shoes,

rendition of an Estella Rynveld parrot tulip, lly c

a vintage bulb planted for hundreds of years. Golden Bear outerwear) as well as the occasional statement piece. sA

46 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_WhatsNews6_03.indd 46 2/7/13 3:25 PM 02072013143626 Approved with warnings what’s news time machines LIKE FATHER, hidden hands a secretive group of swiss masterminds is perpetuating horological traditions by creating the most complex—and coveted—watches in the world. LIKE SON.

keeping time From left: Giulio Papi, Jean- François Mojon, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and David Candaux photographed in Le Locle, Switzerland.

BY michael clerizo photograph Y BY alex majoli

NothiNg is more gratifyiNg to connoisseurs than the watch industry’s equivalent of Interpol. Until is based in the tiny Swiss city of Le Locle, a watchmak- displaying their knowledge of arcane terms and their relatively recently their work was not publicly rec- ing center since the 17th century. (The demand for familiarity with obscure cult brands. Yet even the ognized, since most watch brands jealously guarded his services is so high that although Audemars Piguet most dedicated watch lover is unlikely to recognize their research and development processes. But now, bought a significant stake in his 27-year-old company these names: David Candaux, Jean François Mojon, their names—and the proprietary movements they in 1992, rival companies, including Harry Winston Giulio Papi and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The four create—have become a point of pride for companies and Richard Mille, continue to contract his services.) master watchmakers are the behind-the-scenes archi- seeking to corner the lucrative and highly competitive Recent examples of his wizardry include the 457-com- tects of the most sophisticated timepieces released in collector’s market by pushing the boundaries of tradi- ponent Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch for recent years from brands like Cartier, Harry Winston, tional watchmaking. Cartier, which sells for $676,000 and can keep track Audemars Piguet and De Grisogono. “Brands come to us with an idea that they do not of leap years until 2100, and the $250,000 Chanel J12 Ranging in age from 32 to 62, and working largely know how to realize,” explains Papi, the 48-year-old Rétrograde Mystérieuse, with a specially designed in ateliers high in the Swiss Alps, together they form cofounder of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, which retrograde movement. > MADISON – SOHO – BAL HARBOUR – BEVERLY HILLS – LAS VEGAS – SAN FRANCISCO PALM BEACH – BOSTON – MANHASSET – SOUTHAMPTON – SHORT HILLS – GREENWICH 48 wsj. magazine ALSO AVAILABLE AT BLOOMINGDALE’S WWW.VILEBREQUIN.COM

0413_WSJ_Watches_04.indd 48 2/7/13 3:08 PM 02072013140900 what’s news time machines IT DOESN’T TAKE A RED HOT FURNACE TO KEEP US IN A LIQUID STATE.

“Clients used to want watches that were the same as those made hundreds of years ago—watches that JEAN-MARC only tell the time,” adds Wiederrecht, 62. “Today, we start with what you see on the dial, and the dial WEIDERRECHT involves the person who wears the watch in a way that With the push of a button, the minute and was not possible before.” (Wiederrecht was a game hour hands fold together and time is seem- changer when he launched his Geneva-based company ingly stopped by Hermès’s Arceau Le Temps Agenhor in 1996, rather than going in-house for a sin- Suspendu, a 2011 invention by Weiderrecht gle brand. He says, joking, “I have too many ideas for in which concealed internal mechanisms keep only one brand.”) track of passing minutes. His timepieces, as with those of his compatriots, are made in tiny batches like a grand cru vintage. Only 100 of the $180,000 limited-edition Harry Winston Opus 9 watches were made, which he designed to feature two parallel sliding belts of 33 diamonds and two rubies instead of hands. Van Cleef & Arpel’s Poetic Wish watches, also designed by Wiederrecht, were sold only GIULIO PAPI as a pair last year for $1 million. Time is indicated by chimes, and rather than hands, intricately enameled The oval shape of these watches harks dials depict a girl chasing a kite across Paris on one back to a form first introduced at Audemars watch, while a love-struck man watches a shooting star Piguet 30 years ago, but the technology over the Eiffel Tower on the other. developed by Papi for the Millenary collec- As Mojon explains it, what differentiates their cre- tion is positively futuristic. The complex ations from the rest of the watchmaking pack, beyond movements are visible through the face. flexing their technical muscles, is that they strive to By the time this gold leaves the foundry, it convey the sentiments inherent in the passage of time. will be a solid bar that weighs approximately “A watchmaker must put into a watch all the emotions 400 troy ounces. But there is a way for you that a painter puts on a canvas,” says the 46-year-old, to acquire this precious metal while it’s who founded his Le Locle–based company, Chronode, especially liquid. in 2005, after stints in micro-engineering and aviation. With SPDR® Gold Shares, you get access to “The components that make up the watch are rational, 100% physical gold that you can buy and sell but assembling them gives life to a whole that is much as easily as any traditional stock. And GLD greater than the sum of the parts.” is the most liquid gold ETF in the world, which He has looked to such disparate inspirations as means you can trade and own it at the best ancient Persian cities and the solar system for his DAVID CANDAUX possible price..* watches. (For 2010’s Opus 10 for Harry Winston, separate dials for the hours, minutes and seconds orbit the To accommodate the curved face of the Badollet To put your portfolio in a more liquid state, watch face like the planets.) And he helped launch the Ivresse watch, Candaux developed innovative simply scan the QR code with your smart- new brand HYT this year with the H1 watch that dis- conical gears. Only six of the deceptively mini- phone or visit spdrs.com/GLD for details. plays the hour by a liquid that advances around the face mal pieces have been produced since the watch while the seconds and minutes are indicated by hands. was introduced last year. “A watchmaker must be passionate,” says the youngest of the bunch, Candaux, 32, who may also be the most conservative. He began as an apprentice at Jaeger-LeCoultre at 14 but left in 2008 to found his own company, David Candaux Horlogerie Créative, which is housed in a farmhouse in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. His feats include creating a flying tourbillon and conical gears that fit the curved case of Badollet’s Ivresse watch. “I want to bring back traditional watchmaking,” he says. “The way it was hundreds of years ago, before computers.” Others share his ambition: Papi is so concerned *GLD’s liquidity as measured by 12-month average daily trading volume ($1.9B) is 19 times greater than IAU’s ($98M). Data is as of 9/30/12 (Sources: Bloomberg, SSGA). with preserving tradition that he has written a JEAN-FRANÇOIS MOJON Important Information Relating to SPDR Gold Trust: book dedicated to the importance of hand-finishing The SPDR Gold Trust (“GLD”) has filed a registration statement (including a prospectus) with the Securities and watches. In it, he lifted at least a corner of the curtain Mojon was inspired by the solar system for Exchange Commission (“SEC”) for the offering to which this communication relates. Before you invest, you should read the prospectus in that registration statement and other documents GLD has filed with the SEC for more complete information about GLD and this offering. You may get these documents for free by visiting EDGAR on the SEC website at www.sec.gov or by on the secrets of his trade. Relying on “the oral tradi- Harry Winston’s Opus 10, which features visiting www.spdrgoldshares.com. Alternatively, the Trust or any authorized participant will arrange to send you the prospectus if you request it by calling 1-866-320-4053. tion between master and apprentice nearly led to the separate dials for hours, minutes and seconds ETF’s trade like stocks, are subject to investment risk, fluctuate in market value and may trade at prices above or below the ETF’s net asset value. Brokerage commissions and GLD expenses will reduce returns. death of handcrafted finishing,” he says. “We hope to that orbit a central axis like planets around These investments may have difficulty in liquidating investment position without taking a significant discount from current market value, which can be a significant problem with certain lightly traded securities. engrave an inestimably precious legacy into the col- the sun, completing their rotation every 24 Diversification does not assure a profit and may not protect against investment loss. Investing in commodities entails significant risk and is not appropriate for all investors. lective memory of watchmaking devotees.” In the hours. For details see Sources, page 114. “SPDR” is a registered trademark of Standard & Poor’s Financial Services LLC (“S&P”) and has been licensed for use by State Street Corporation. No financial product offered by State Street Corporation or its affiliates is sponsored, meantime, their watches will serve as literal remind- endorsed, sold or promoted by S&P or its affiliates, and S&P and its affiliates make no representation, warranty or condition regarding the advisability of buying, selling or holding units/shares in such products. Further limitations that could affect investors’ rights may be found in GLD’s prospectus.

ers of their skills. F. MARTIN RAMIN For more information: State Street Global Markets, LLC, One Lincoln Street, Boston, MA, 02111 • 866.320.4053 • www.spdrgoldshares.com. Not FDIC Insured – No Bank Guarantee – May Lose Value IBG-6409 50 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_Watches_04.indd 50 2/7/13 3:08 PM $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT fashion & design forecast MARKET REPORT. april 2013

it’s no fun on your own

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11:00 a.m. Domenico Dolce, left, and Stefano Gabbana do final fittings on model Kate King for a dress that was finished overnight.

tracked DOLCE & GABBANA A day in the life of the design duo, who have translated Italian allure into a fashion empire, is as opulent as the classic film that inspires their work.

BY DEREK BLASBERG PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT LEVER

FOR 28 YEARS, Italian designers Domenico Dolce But the latest addition to the Italian label is French entirely hand-constructed dresses featuring double- and Stefano Gabbana have held up “la dolce vita” in origin: couture, that cottage industry of elaborate ply cashmere, lace and raffia. The finale for the show, as the guiding principle of their self-named fash - custom-made clothing that sells to a select group of which was presented at the two-story penthouse ion house: corseted girls in white lace, va-va-voom loyal clients for five-figure prices and up. Calling their apartment that serves as their Alta Moda salons, drew “Toot” by Piero Lissoni and Cassina. Design ﬁrst. vamps dripping in Byzantine gold and animal iteration Alta Moda, which translates to “high fash- applause: a gilded dress with a crown, corset and plat- prints of every species have populated their run - ion” in Italian, they presented their first collection form shoes made entirely of real gold. Lissoni’s elegant design combined with the skilled craftsmanship of Cassina come together to bring you Toot. ways, proving that more, for Dolce & Gabbana, is last year away from the rigid Parisian show schedule And while their days are jam-packed, from their A modular system with an aluminium frame, feather padding and a choice of seat depths allowing many different indeed more. Today, the house includes four collec - in Sicily (the island where Dolce was born). “It was 7 a.m. wake-up call to bedtime 17 hours later (after permutations. Available with or without armrests and with or without back cushions, you will always feel at home tions (men’s, women’s, accessories and children’s), a dream come true,” Dolce says, which could aptly hitting the dance floor), some things still move slowly. with Toot. a makeup line and 27 fragrances. And tilling their describe the complex one-of-a-kind gowns whipped “Someone asked me to send the price of a dress by home turf has afforded rich rewards: The combined up in their ateliers. This season, the designers looked email,” Gabbana says. “I said, ‘No, darling. We don’t net worth of Dolce, 54, and Gabbana, 50, is now to the soaring architecture of Milan’s Duomo and email.’ I write it down on a piece of paper, and I send a New York Midtown and Soho - Washington DC - Miami by PFG Miami estimated at over $4 billion. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele to create fantastical, guy with it to your house.” > Boston by Montage - Chicago by WPA - Dallas by Scott + Cooner - Los Angeles by DIVA - San Francisco by Arkitektura

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9:30 a.m. 100 A pause for an guests attended the show espresso before amongst them were Italian 7:00 a.m. fittings begin 12:00 p.m. and Middle Eastern royalty. Dolce and in their salon at A sketch of the dress Gabbana the Alta Moda modeled by Kate King penthouse apartment. wake up is added to the show’s program. in their neighboring 17 apartments, blocks minutes from the Galleria, The time it took to model all which was one of the inspirations for the looks in the show. the collection. 3,840 white blossoms, including white roses, hyacinths, tulips and buttercups, were used to fill the venue, to complement the pale hues of the collection. 6 months The longest amount of time an Alta Moda garment can take to complete. 63 looks sent down the runway Only one will be made of each style, 6:45 p.m. so clients can own a unique creation. After a month and a half of work, 4:15 p.m. a hand-stitched white The designers dress with macramé lace 58 and raffia pieces Italian Baroque pieces break for a snack appears on the runway. served by waiters in from Dolce and Gabbana’s personal the designers’ furniture collection, including 52 private quarters. armchairs, 2 sofas and 4 gilded thrones, 7:00 p.m. were used to seat their guests. The designers applaud the finale, having changed into matching 0:00 a.m. tuxedos of their own design. Dolce wakes up 40 Loreror sequi tiur re people work in the officto et quis ab ipsus, Alta Moda ateliers tet est alilorlae essecea 10:45 p.m. including seamstresses and embroiderers. ribusa ipslae eslae es After dessert is served, some of the guests try on dresses that 1 were inspired pair of 18K gold shoes and by the Gothic architecture one gold filigree crown of the Duomo custom-made to match the final bridal dress. 6:58 p.m. cathedral. The final look was inspired by the Madonnina, the gilded p.m. statue that tops the Countless 6:00 Duomo’s 357-foot spire. viewings of The Leopard, Following the last fitting, the 1963 Italian masterpiece Giovanna Battaglia, left, and Tabitha Simmons, by Luchino Visconti about a 19th-century who styled the show with Coco Brandolini, Sicilian prince, which is Dolce

change into Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda dresses. PREVIOUS PAGE: COURTESY DOLCE & GABBANA (BATTAGLIA & SIMMONS) and Gabbana’s touchstone film. •

64 wsj. magazine the exchange

the cult of working with the same suppliers of traditional Charles and Ray Eames, and Scandinavian furni- men’s shirting, for example, for 40 years. And ture,” she says. “And I thought, What about little they are often reminiscent of a speciﬁc period old Britain, and the designers we’ve had? I real- or practice: Soft-hanging jackets that hark ized that I was a very British designer.” margaret howell back to working-men’s clubs in ’50s London. When she opened her headquarters in Her more recent second line, MHL, began with 2002, it became one of the ﬁrst true life- )

with a utilitarian approach to luxury, an affinity for masculine tailoring and collaborations outside ad a simple cotton jersey top based on a found ex- style stores by adding a background to the fashion world, the British designer has won legions of followers at home and abroad. army sports shirt. The look is so unostentatious the clothes. She began to put on small

ONDON (AD) as to be nearly invisible to the untrained eye, exhibitions of unsung British designers— yet it all stems, as Howell remarks, “from a very the postwar industrial designer Robert personal point of view.” Welch, for instance, or the sustainable Howell’s fashion career began in the late ’60s. communities designed in the ’50s by Span After studying fine art at Goldsmiths College Developments—and sold related objects. in London, she hand-made necklaces and sold Howell now regularly collaborates them. Then she made a shirt. At that time, with designers from other fields. Grange men’s shirts were either very formal or exaggeratedly STAR POWER says she has the highest standards of aes- “designer.” Howell used traditional fabrics to produce Above: Howell’s red thetic, structural and intelligent design. corduroy jacket, as a relaxed and quiet style. Working at first from home, worn by Jack Nicholson Indeed, Howell might be seen to be working she was compelled to expand operations when Joseph in The Shining, was in a tradition unrelated to clothes, alongside Ettedgui asked to stock her shirts in his then-new epon- updated and reissued British artists and designers whose works draw in 2011. ymous shop—a key endorsement that helped launch inspiration from the land, such as David Mellor her as a designer. Howell went on to make an unlined with his Sheffield steelworks, Peter Lanyon’s linen jacket, and then trousers using a robust cordu- landscape abstractions and the organic forms of roy. In every case she was inspired by locally produced Henry Moore. fabric. And women wanted to wear it too. This was the Howell still uses linen from Ireland and wool Annie Hall era, but Howell’s way of wedding Katharine from Scotland, and says that Scottish water Hepburn to Walter Gropius—a ’30s sense of moder- is “lovely and soft,” so the wool is washed to a nity—has never had a problem finding fans. particular effect. “People who have carried on This kind of authenticity has become its own manufacturing here just have a wealth of experi- form of luxury: Where else will you find wide- ence; weaving and finishing cloth does rely on that legged trousers made of hand-dyed tweed, or built-up knowledge,” she emphasizes. What she old-school shirting combined with thick cash- makes with these elements essentially respects and mere and a flirty take on tartan? McDowell loves retains their character. It’s what she calls “living with “the way she eschews dressing a catwalk fan- thoughtful style.” tasy figure in favor of suggesting clothes for real Occasionally, Howell will see a fabric she people who want quality—not what mainstream would never use, but longs to make it fit. “Silk fashion thinks are classics but are real classics to be organza takes color so beautifully,” she says treasured and worn for many seasons to come.” Howell wistfully, “but it’s not something that comes herself believes this is the key to her success: “There will into this sort of collection, really.” Policing form and always be a small group of people that like the feel of the this kind of thing is a full-time job: In Japan, fUnCTIon clothes more than the outward statement of fashion.” where separate collections are overseen Way); Way); courtesy margaret hoWell (lamp, chair, sWeater); photography By venetia scott, model: kim norda @ viva london ( margaret Howell was born in Surrey, England, just after closely by Howell, the designers, she says, howell in her

design studio. W (run the Second World War. Her two older sisters were “understand, but the merchandisers can born during wartime—three years apart—and push your look off-course, like with color or much of what she does can be seen through something that’s very pretty-pretty.” ); ); firstvie ); FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY); COURTESY MARGARET HOWELL (LAMP, CHAIR, SWEATER); PHOTOGRAPHY BY VENETIA SCOTT, MODEL: KIM NORDA @ VIVA L this ﬁlter. “I think in those days a lot of peo- Part of sculpting designs made in her BY GaBY Wood ple’s mothers used to get their machines name is showing where they come from. The out and make curtains or clothes,” she lifestyle aspect of the London store arose in the the shining When I ask Margaret hoWell if she designs with and does. Today, her fans include Alexa Chung, Bill and other classics of postwar British design are care- THE SHINING recalls. “My mother always used to say, part to help young designers working with a certain woman in mind, she shrugs and replies, Nighy, Frances McDormand and a dedicated follow- fully positioned next to handmade porcelain and a ‘If you make your own, you can get better her to understand her vision for the clothes. “The modern woman, who doesn’t want to be ing in Japan. selection of monographs on like-minded artists: the quality because you can buy nice cloth.’ ” Now she is working on a book using sources

restricted.” Asked for specifics, she names Jane Howell is widely admired for what the fashion his- sculptor Barbara Hepworth or the late “cutlery king” ( ollection When her father returned from the war, from her archive. She thinks of that, too, as something Birkin, Katharine Hepburn and Inès de la Fressange torian Colin McDowell describes as her “intellectual David Mellor. Howell herself is precise and petite. he became a legal clerk, who rushed into that might guide those who work with her. Because, as among her inspirations. The range—across decades, and creative integrity.” Kenneth Grange—the illus- There is a quiet thoughtfulness about her, and a sug- the garden at the end of each day to tend the CLASSIC STUDIES she admits, “I’m probably not the sort of designer who

looks and character types—makes me laugh, because trious British designer of everything from Parker gestion in her demeanor that things could always be everett c vegetable patch. “We were taught to look From top right: A could do a complete range just like that.” runway look from of course that doesn’t narrow it down at all, and this pens to high-speed trains, who recently collaborated more simple. “I think clothing should have a reason after things, and make them last,” Howell the latest menswear The remark is disarmingly anti-fashion, yet it makes is Howell’s gift: to see style where it already exists, with Howell on a slate-gray shirt—says: “What makes for being designed, and a sort of character to it,” says—wastefulness of all kinds still “goes collection; a cashmere perfect sense. From Howell’s point of view, if an item and to describe a person and a purpose before she her so unique is that she manages to flourish in a Howell tells me. That, she adds, can be the hardest against the grain.” sweater by Howell; of clothing is made well, you really only need one of it. an ad campaign from mentions the clothes. lunatic world of silly clothes for often silly people.” thing to achieve: “Sometimes it can just be clothing.” Consciously or not, that period 2009, photographed She describes her clothes as “practical, active”—and, It means that although Howell has a rigorous At her headquarters in Wigmore Street, in central “Utilitarian” is by now just another look in the lex- remained close to her heart. On her way by Venetia Scott; an one might add, made for life. “I don’t like variations on aesthetic—which has grown, since the 1970s, out London, she works behind the scenes of a deep, natu- icon of fashion, but for the 66-year-old Howell, utility home from work, years ago, she kept Anglepoise lamp (by a theme,” Howell says. “I like to get it all into one thing, Kenneth Grange) and a of the simple luxury and ease of dressing both men rally lit shop that sells not only her clothes but also is both fact and inspiration. The clothes must be seeing Ercol furniture in a local house restored ’50s chair, both and get it right. And when I like something, I usually like martien mulder/trunk archive mulder/trunk martien ©Warner ©WARNER Brothers/courtesy BROTHERS/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION ( and women in men’s clothing—anyone can wear it, furniture and books. Ercol chairs, Anglepoise lamps made expertly from the correct cloth—she has been ARCHIVE MULDER/TRUNK MARTIEN clearance shop. “At the time it was all sold at Howell’s store. it for a long time.”

66 WSJ. MAGAZINE

0413_WSJ_MargaretHowell_03.indd 66 2/7/13 3:49 PM 0413_WSJ_MargaretHowell_04.indd 67 2/8/13 10:02 AM 02072013145017 Approved with warnings $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT the exchange

GiLLiaM on JohnSon JohnSon on GiLLiaM G an , “The Washington Color School gave me a chance to fit into a future, rather than oWR olk

D fit into what was domestic. In Washington, in the ’60s, you could see where you C on za wanted to go; you could see what you were thirsty for. You could feel the beckon- yli

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t ChiCaG another way in terms of a career. I think that Sam’s work deals with bigger human concerns about art and life.

Rashid Johnson, left, ., C aR Figuring out what a career is, You think about Sam making these abstract geometric paintings in 1965. And

and Sam Gilliam l.a

at the elder artist’s y, how to work, when to work and you think about all the things that are happening in 1965—it’s very specific to R Washington, D.C., what to work on—that’s the avoid representation of those things. It’s studio space. dilemma you talk about with kind of like escape as a protest: I’m going

ky S ky Galle younger artists. to refuse to participate in this problem, and D, D, 114” x 124.75” x 24.125” CouR an I encourage young artists to I’m going to continue to manufacture and oo RD know what’s in books but to go make things that I think are part of this big- mentor/protégé D W beyond books, to see what is going on outside of school, because that’s what ger conversation. taine

S you’re actually training for. To see the variables. The fact is, I’m still the same, One of the things I specifically learned

S,” S,” 2012, muSeum of ContempoRaRy perhaps, as I was when I was younger. The idea of the work is still the same. You [from Sam and his generation] was that Sy of DaviD ko te

olk see something as an extension of a certain time or a certain date, rather than when racial discourse was brought to their D paint, R

The aRT of inSpiRaTion ol the observation that the optimism of the ’50s and ’60s still continues—quieter work, there was a lot of opportunity for pro- , G but still the same. I see a kind of optimism when I talk with Rashid.” jection. What I really hoped to do with my RS

This spring, rising art star Rashid Johnson pays homage to the colorful, defiantly abstract o work was to at least be able to define my rela- RR aGe aGe to ouR f

paintings of 79-year-old Sam Gilliam by curating an exhibition devoted to Gilliam’s early works. SS tionship to race. My composition often goes 54.5” x 118”, Cou 118”, x S 54.5” me toward the black middle class, or the black on, “ a nva super-wealthy, or strong historical black S

BY chloe schama photographY BY matthu placek Ce RoCkS, mi figures. After starting my work thinking C on C

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“Some of theSe are geSSoed?” asks the artist Rashid artists of his generation, he shied away from address- dozens of solo shows, including one at the Museum of , plant deal a lot more with art-making and material. I wanted my art to deal with very R R; RaS hi D John te Johnson, gesturing at several colorful canvases lean- ing race head-on, producing geometric paintings, Contemporary Art in Chicago in 2012, the same year , 1969, a formal concerns and to deal with very material concerns, and to deal with ing against a wall in 79-year-old Sam Gilliam’s airy and then, in the late ’60s and ’70s, the large, draped he was nominated for the prestigious Hugo Boss Prize. antecedents and art history, which for me go very far beyond just the influence Washington, D.C., studio. “No,” Gilliam corrects, canvases for which he is best known. In 1976, three Around Gilliam, however, he is an eager and attentive of African-American artists. Don WebS , S hea butte speaking more deliberately than Johnson’s enthusi- Gilliam canvases covered almost an entire external pupil. Johnson first learned of Gilliam in the early Red Stanza There’s a tremendous amount of respect between us. In some ways I’m still an SS

astic clip. “They’re all raw.” Johnson, 35, furrows his wall of the Philadelphia Museum of Modern Art—like 2000s while in his twenties and still an undergrad in bR very intimidated by Sam. It’s been great to be able to talk to him, to talk a little brow, bends over and peers at one of the paintings as a giant’s tie-dyed laundry hung up to dry. “I wanted to his hometown of Chicago. It seemed to Johnson that about his influences. I don’t want to bug him too much. I just want to pick up though it contains code. brighten things up,” Gilliam says, “rather than just be Gilliam had been overlooked in favor of black artists what I can. He’s been really generous letting me follow him around, asking him aphy by

Last summer, Gilliam—known for his vibrant, concerned with the problem.” who had engaged more directly with identity politics. GR questions for the exhibition. I thought maybe he’d say, ‘OK, well, let the kid have often monumentally scaled paintings—received a call In recent decades—though still admired among This spring, Johnson will curate a show of some of a couple of pieces,’ and maybe even dictate to me what he thought was the cor- hoto from Johnson, who wanted to curate an exhibition of contemporary art aficionados—Gilliam has slipped Gilliam’s early work at the David Kordansky Gallery rect approach. But he’s really given me a lot of flexibility. He’s kind of like, ‘Run, the older artist’s work. Gilliam first made his name into semi-obscurity. A review of his 2006 retrospec- in Los Angeles (March 28–May 11), where both artists Wax, bookS, vinyl, bRa young fellow, you like this stuff.’ ”

in the 1960s as a member of the Washington Color tive at Washington’s Corcoran Gallery in The Wall are signed. oa p,

School, a group of D.C. painters that used similar tech- Street Journal was titled “A Master of Color Too Long “Surprised the hell out of me,” says Gilliam about Ck S S, 70.5” x 49.5”, p conceptual approach from top: Johnson’s Souls of Black folk, from 2010, features abStract impreSSion for the exhibition of Gilliam’s work at David kordansky Gallery niques: staining large unprimed canvases, embracing in the Shadows.” Johnson hopes to change all that. the initial call from Johnson, an amused smile playing vinyl, shea butter, space rocks and other mixed media; part of the artist’s 2012 exhibition at this month, Johnson, acting as curator, draws heavily from Gilliam’s early paintings. from lo CkWiSe fRom top RiGht: Sam Gilliam a nva C C abstraction and energetic color. Unlike many black A rising star of the art world, Johnson has had across his face. 2010, bla the museum of Contemporary art in Chicago, “Rashid Johnson: message to our folks.” top: Gilliam’s 1969 Red Stanza; 1965’s Ionesque.

68 edited from Chloe Schama’s interview with Sam Gilliam and Rashid Johnson. wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_Protege_03.indd 68 2/7/13 12:54 PM 0413_WSJ_Protege_02.indd 69 2/5/13 7:48 PM 02072013115902 02052013190421 Approved with warnings the exchange

built to lASt Clockwise from far left: Markus Scheer, the seventh generation of shoemakers in his family; as part of a recent expansion, Scheer Raum’s basement now has a private dining room—with shoemakers’ lamps on the table—for entertaining clients; Scheer in front of the original storefront; shoes on display in the store; apprentices in Scheer’s workshop.

made by hand thE shoE must go on

After nearly two hundred years in business, the oldest bespoke shoemaker in Europe is modernizing and expanding its product line—and still making footwear of exceptional quality.

BY KimBerlY BrADleY PhotogrAPhY BY AnDrew PhelPs

Scheer ShoeS are a VienneSe legacy. The Habsburg a casual afternoon visit to the store. Customers must This cloistered atmosphere began to unwind after Raum, handmade shoe-related items (shoehorns created the stunning lamp; on one occasion, his staff even made as he calls it. His hope is that at least one of them will dynasty named the shoemaker an imperial court pur- come to Vienna for several fittings and consultations the elder Scheer died in May 2011. “My grandfather in leather to match Scheer shoes, elegant shoe-care kits shoes by the soft glow of its light. train long enough (about 10 years) to reach master sta- veyor in 1878, and the building at Bräunerstrasse 4 for their first pair, which take six months to make. didn’t want me to change much while he was alive, so I and polishing stools) displayed against the store’s high Markus’s more open approach also involves shoe- tus and take up carving the lasts alongside him. The hasn’t changed much since then. Nor has the quality Leather is chosen from a “library,” with some pieces had a long time to think of my ideas,” says Markus. “The ceilings and vintage floral wallpaper became an easier related socializing. An antique tailor’s cabinet in goal is not only to slightly increase capacity (last year, of the footwear, which today costs upward of $6,700 a dating back to the 19th century (the most expensive is first thing I did was to open all the doors in the work- draw for established clientele. “This was the first step in Scheer Raum conceals a mini-kitchen, and down a they produced just under 300 pairs, but “we’d never pair and ranges from classic wing tips and tall-shaft a lizard skin from the 1920s). In the words of customer shop.” The shoemakers (there are nine on staff) can now opening up our philosophy,” Markus says. “People only stairwell covered in buttery leather is a spacious cel- grow so much as to lose quality,” he says), but to also boots to peppy derbies and glossy whole-cuts. As the Thomas Jakoubek, a Viennese real-estate developer, see and speak to each other as they work, which he says knew us for handmade custom shoes.” lar renovated as a dining area. Four or five times a reduce the risk of losing two centuries of know-how oldest bespoke shoemaker in Europe—in business for the shoes “fit like a sock. It’s like building a house—and increases communication—and quality. Some of the new wares are modern, like a leather month, he arranges dinners prepared by in-house should his four young children choose other careers. nearly 200 years—Rudolf & Söhne Scheer has fashioned Markus is like an architect. You have a dialogue with Markus had embarked on an ambitious expansion iPhone case designed last year, while others, like the chefs. Sometimes guests’ shoes are deep-cleaned dur- With all these innovations, Scheer is mindful of the footwear for Austrian emperors and Kaiser Wilhelm of him, set up a plan, choose materials and build.” plan, starting with opening a portion of an adjacent Schusterlampe, or shoemaker’s lamp, are drenched ing the meal. “He’s very smart and service-oriented,” fact that he’s modernizing an enterprise that will cel- Germany. The family business has also shod countless For years, tourists peering in the windows saw an old- storefront—known as the Scheer Schusterei, after the in Scheer family history. Suspended from a strip of says Thomas Geisler, curator at the Austrian Museum ebrate its bicentennial in 2016. “I’m trying to find new cultural luminaries, many of whose feet, in the form fashioned (“almost medieval,” says Jakoubek) interior: German word for cobbler—where customers could leather in a cubic wooden frame, a water-filled glass of Applied Arts/Contemporary Art. “He manages to symbols for tradition,” he says. Future plans include of wooden lasts, are stored in the workshop—though vitrines filled with historical lasts; an ornate chandelier; bring in non-Scheer shoes and leather goods for repair, orb amplifies the light of a burning candle. “When we bring good people together through handcraft. He’s got further expansion, but at the same time, one foot is it’s tradition to never name living customers, says and a steep, narrow staircase leading to the second floor. and where shoe creams and polishes in a riot of colors renovated, we found a package wrapped in newspa- his artist crowd, the businesspeople, the old Viennese. firmly planted in upholding the family legacy and, as he Markus Scheer, a trained orthopedist and the head of In the hushed ambience, a few employees sewed and now line the walls. At first, the Viennese weren’t quite per hidden in the wall,” Markus explains. “It was our I think he’s completely inspired by all of these people.” says, “educating” modern customers about true quality. the company. Markus, who at 40 represents the seventh hammered shoes, but the doors in the upstairs work- sure what to make of it. “People couldn’t believe we company’s original lamp, which someone had hidden Meanwhile, behind the scenes, more changes have “There’s big hype around handcrafted things right now, generation of the family business, still hand-carves all shop stayed closed. Markus worked here alongside his were doing something besides very expensive shoes,” he before the Russians and Americans came into Vienna been underway. In 2010, Markus began recruiting but most people don’t understand quality. It’s impor- the lasts himself. grandfather for about 20 years, honing his craft and says. “They thought maybe we weren’t earning enough after World War II.” Markus hired carpenters from emerging shoemakers from across Europe, offering six tant to bring that understanding back,” he says. “As my Owning a pair of Scheers involves more than just establishing relationships with customers. money.” But with the opening of a second space, Scheer South Tyrol and glassblowers from Leipzig to re-create of them apprenticeships in a shoe-making “academy,” grandfather always used to say, ‘The shoe has to fit.’ ”•

70 wsj. magazine

0413_WSJ_MarkusSheer_02.indd 70 2/5/13 5:39 PM 0413_WSJ_MarkusSheer_02.indd 71 2/5/13 5:39 PM 02052013164744 02052013164744 april 2013

MEN’S FASHION ISSUE

ROcking Out Take a break from structured style—there are no boundaries this fashion season. WW1 CHRONOGRAPHE MONOPOUSSOIR 45 mm · www.bellross.com Dries Van Noten coat, Jean Shop jacket, Lanvin T-shirt, BOSS jeans, vintage belt and boots. For details see Sources, page 114.

0413_WSJ_WellOpener_02.indd 73 2/5/13 4:59 PM 02052013162236 OU T WA R D BOUND

Leaving the tailored confines of suits far behind, go off fashion’s familiar grid in rugged, relaxed pieces that give a peak performance.

photography by nathaniel goldberg styling by clare richardson

lonely planet Stand apart from the pack in easy, lightweight pieces anchored by sturdy boots. Vintage coat, Steven Alan sweater, Dolce & Gabbana henley, Tommy Hilfiger pants, vintage belt and boots. 75

0413_WSJ_Fashion_02.indd 74 2/5/13 5:12 PM 0413_WSJ_Fashion_02.indd 75 2/5/13 5:12 PM 02052013162234 02052013162234 WISTFUL THINKING A simple sweater or a broken-in jacket are liberating alternatives to buttoned-up shirts. Trussardi jacket, John Varvatos henleys, Hermès pants, Stephen Webster chain (worn throughout), vintage boots. Opposite: Gucci sweater.

0413_WSJ_Fashion_03.indd 76 2/6/13 6:46 PM 0413_WSJ_Fashion_02.indd 77 2/5/13 5:12 PM 02062013175108 02052013162235 Top Gear Earth tones are the natural habitat for this season’s loose layers. Burberry Prorsum parka, Polo Ralph Lauren shirt, Diesel henley, Gucci pants, Belstaff sweater (around waist), Frye boots. Opposite: Bottega Veneta coat, sweater and pants, Belstaff sweater (over shoulders), vintage boots.

0413_WSJ_Fashion_02.indd 78 2/5/13 5:12 PM 0413_WSJ_Fashion_03.indd 79 2/6/13 6:46 PM 02052013162235 02062013175108 maN vS. WILD Prepare for all climates in a luxe tank or a voluminous trench coat. Yohji Yamamoto coat, John Varvatos pants, Frye boots. Opposite: Dolce & Gabbana tank. Model is Andre Van Noord at Root Management; grooming by Sarah Sibia using Shu Uemura Art of Hair at See Management; photographed at the Amangiri resort in Canyon Point, Utah, amanresorts .com.

0413_WSJ_Fashion_02.indd 80 2/5/13 5:12 PM 0413_WSJ_Fashion_03.indd 81 2/6/13 6:47 PM 02052013162235 02062013175109 m elo tIme In his third season with the Knicks, Carmelo Anthony has stepped up his game—on and off the court—turning a sometimes hit-or-miss career into the stuff championships are made of.

BY jason gaY sTYling BY Dav iD FarBer phoTographY BY TerrY riCharDson

CRUSHING IT “We recognized that Melo had the opportunity to change how people referred to him,” says Asani Swann, 82 director of operations for Melo Enterprises Inc. Nike Jordan Melo Redman Face T-shirt (also on page 86).

0413_WSJ_Melo_02.indd 82 2/5/13 5:02 PM 0413_WSJ_Melo_02.indd 83 2/5/13 5:02 PM 02052013162218 02052013162218 very once in a while, a surreal moment used to it. A lot of things have become clearer to me occurs in the life of Carmelo Anthony. He about being in New York.” will be out somewhere, maybe at a dinner or It did not occur overnight. The Knicks traded half a business gathering, and he will be intro- their roster when they brought Anthony from the duced to a person, perhaps a very capable Denver Nuggets in February 2011, after an exasperat- Eperson, who knows many things about many things, ing saga that dragged on for months. He returned to but does not know who Carmelo Anthony is. This seems the city where he was born, across the Brooklyn Bridge, improbable, given that the 28-year-old Anthony is one in the brick apartment towers of Red Hook. Anthony of the most public and scrutinized athletes in the media hadn’t spent his entire childhood in New York—when fun-house mirror of New York City, but it does happen. he was eight, his family moved to Baltimore, where he Sometimes the person has a vague idea. Sometimes ascended into a high school star—but there was enough they recognize just Anthony’s first name—Carmelo, thread to spin a homecoming narrative. Anthony was yes, it rings a bell—and nothing else. They don’t know introduced at a standing-room-only press conference much about NBA basketball. They don’t know much with his wife, the former MTV personality Alani “La about the New York Knicks. La” Vasquez, and the couple’s son, Kiyan, now six. When This doesn’t insult Anthony. Not at all. This is a Anthony walked onto the Madison Square Garden floor relief. Anonymity makes him happy. as a Knick for the first time, the team played a welcom- “I love having those conversations,” Anthony says ing video accompanied by the schmaltzy lyrics of the on a January afternoon. He says this earnestly, as if he’s Diddy–Skylar Grey song “Coming Home”: describing a guilty pleasure he wishes he could enjoy I’m coming home / Tell the world I’m coming home / more. “Because if there is a connection, it’s a natural Let the rain wash away all the pain of yesterday / I know connection. It’s not anything to do with basketball.” my kingdom awaits and they’ve forgiven my mistakes. These moments do not happen often. Chances are That gooey homecoming feeling faded fast. The they will be happening less and less. Anthony is deep Knicks were swept out of the play-offs in Anthony’s into his third season in New York, and the Knicks are first half-season, and the lockout-shortened 2011–12 playing some of their best basketball in more than season was messier—its peak was a winning streak a decade—the primary reason being Anthony. This piloted by the point guard Cinderella, Jeremy Lin, is not insignificant news. For most of his 10-season most of which Anthony missed with an injury. The career, Anthony has been regarded as an offensive team stumbled upon his return, leading to the resigna- dynamo—Charles Barkley, the ex-player, TNT analyst tion of head coach Mike D’Antoni, with whom Anthony and basketball’s Simon Cowell, describes Anthony to had occasionally clashed. The team improved, but me as “the best scorer in the NBA”—but there was the Miami drummed New York out of the play-offs in five maddening suspicion that Anthony left potential on games. A couple months later, the Knicks declined to the table, that he lacked the crazy-eyed single-mind- sign the beloved Lin. The off-season criticism of the edness that separated the very good from the great. franchise was withering. Melo was about Melo, too unengaged, perhaps ambiv- But New York is crazy even when things are good. alent, the rap went. When today’s Knicks practice ends, Anthony is That suspicion is fading. When we meet just after swarmed by reporters, eager to hear his comments the New Year, the Knicks are in first place in their divi- on the latest absurd distraction. A couple days before, sion, and Anthony has just been named the Eastern Anthony had been involved in a strange episode in the Conference Player of the Week. The long hype of underbelly of the Garden, where he was spotted by a Carmelo Anthony in New York City has coalesced into television camera outside a bus chartered by the Boston something real, and there’s a lightness to his mood. Celtics. He was waiting to speak to the Celtic antagonist “This is what I envisioned, coming to New York,” he Kevin Garnett, and it’s safe to assume he was not there says. “This was on my vision board. I’d sit back and be to ask Garnett out for pomegranate mojitos. Anthony like, Damn, I am going to run out there and be hitting would later claim that during the game Garnett had game winners in the Garden in front of fans, getting said “certain things you just don’t say to another man,” them riled up. When they’re stomping on the floors, and there was gleeful, junior-high-schoolish specula- yelling ‘New York Knicks’—that’s a great feeling.” tion about what exactly these “certain things” were. We are sitting on plastic chairs in the empty Knicks Today Anthony politely deflects the controversy (“me practice facility in Tarrytown, New York. Practice and Kevin, that’s handled, that’s settled, that’s done is done. We look like a pair of ninth graders waiting and over with,” he says), but the National Basketball out detention after gym class. Anthony is wearing an Association overlords do not like Anthony’s attempted orange T-shirt and a pair of lightweight sweatpants cut bus confrontation. Hours later, the league suspends at the calf—a version of basketball capris. He stretches him for one game. his long legs across the floor. But New York could not have cared less. Melo was “I always told friends around me, my family, my becoming one of their own. The city had his back. teammates, guys in the organization, this process was going to take two and a half to three years,” he says. here is a presumptuous belief that New “Just to get everything in order. Get your feet wet. Get York is nirvana for a professional athlete, but a number of high-profile free agents game on Melo has “a real sense of style and the confidence have blown off this nirvana in recent years. that goes with that,” says Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone. The Knicks made a pandering overture to This page: Salvatore Ferragamo blazer, BOSS henley, tLeBron James—going as far as to make a recruiting Giorgio Armani pants. Opposite: Ralph Lauren Black Label Denim leather jacket and T-shirt, Panerai watch, Anthony’s film with members of theSopranos cast—but there’s no own pants. For details see Sources, page 114. evidence James took the offer seriously before joining

0413_WSJ_Melo_03.indd 84 2/7/13 12:03 PM 0413_WSJ_Melo_02.indd 85 2/5/13 5:02 PM 02072013110448 02052013162218 the Miami Heat. Not everyone signs with the Yankees Institute Gala, says the player has a “real sense of per- Detroit Pistons in a regular-season game in London. now. The Jets may have a quarterback opening soon, sonal style and the confidence that goes with that.” Another fuss is stirred when Anthony reveals he has “this was on my and the gig might be less preferable than putting your Anthony’s style upgrade was deliberate. Asani been on a two-week fast for “clarity in my life and face inside a trash bag full of bees. Swann, the director of operations for Anthony’s man- spiritual reasons,” a period that coincided with some vision board. But New York held an appeal to Anthony and his agement company, Melo Enterprises Inc., says that lackluster performances. But Anthony deflects the to run out advisers. “New York City is the capital,” says Anthony’s when Anthony was still with Denver, he began making concern with humor—he cracks that the fast may there and be manager, Robert “Bay” Frazier, who has known him a conscious effort to freshen his look. He cut his hair, have contributed to his tangle with Garnett—and the since his teens. “You can get everything done.” Anthony began wearing suits, bow ties, better shoes and coats. news cycle pushes on. There’s a sense that Anthony hitting game is not in the elite class of superstar endorsers like Part of this was prompted by the dress code the NBA has gotten better at handling the city’s volatile winners, James or Kobe Bryant—he’s more like 1-AA than 1-A— instituted in the middle of the last decade, but part of it rhythms. When he says that last summer was the first getting the but since leaving Denver his visibility and business has was also growing up—and trying to alter public percep- time he actually got a chance “to sit back and reflect grown. Anthony’s current relationships include Nike’s tion. “We recognized that Melo had the opportunity as on the whole experience” of being traded and what fans riled up. Jordan Brand, PowerCoco sports drink and the supple- he was changing his look to change how people referred it means to play in New York, it sounds like a delayed when they’re ment Isotonix Champion Blend Plus. Frazier says that to him,” Swann says. Anthony entered the league at 19, reaction, but it also appears to be true. The city is a stomping on Anthony just agreed to terms on a deal with Degree after just one season at Syracuse University, and there place that will bury you one night, then whip around deodorant, and he recently became a stakeholder in were the predictable reckless episodes, but there’s and defend you the next, and athletes who thrive the floor Haute Time, a luxury publishing com- here grasp this. Anthony is not just yelling ‘new pany covering timepieces. “I’ve been a playing better for his team—he also york knicks’— watch guy as long as I can remember,” understands his town. Anthony says. A few nights before, I’d that’s a great noticed a dazzling timepiece in the championship would feeling.” cubby above Anthony’s Garden locker, change everything— uP uP –carmelo anthony its face as big as a baby’s fist. those brief moments of GRO GRO

Anthony says he is no longer inter- social anonymity would WALL ested in strict endorsement deals; surely vaporize. A title is WALL The he prefers partnerships that offer a AAnthony’s obvious goal, as it’s flum- ThE FOR percentage of ownership. “I’ve got moxed every would-be Knicks savior FOR

to have a connection with that com- for the past 40 years. “If he’s able to n ARMA pany,” he says. “An endorsement win a championship in New York,” ARMAN

deal—I just feel like it’s a one-off says Barkley, “it will take his legend y h

thing. ‘Oh pay him to go out there and to another level.” Walt Frazier, the AND

do a commercial.’ After that contract television analyst of the Knicks and By G By AnDy h in

is up, you have no ties with that prod- a member of New York’s last cham- LING yL y ST uct. So I go into a deal and say, ‘OK, pionship club, in 1972–73, agrees. ST

forget the money. Let’s be partners.’ ” “In order to authenticate your great- PROP PROP . Anthony says his wife is an ideal ness, you got to have a ring,” he says. . ORD

advisor. The Brooklyn-born Vasquez “Ask Patrick Ewing.” nORD

N is the star of her own reality series, It’s probably wise to cool the ARS ARS L La La’s Full Court Life (Melo makes an engine here. The Knicks are vastly L AT AT occasional appearance), and not long improved, but they should at least win ago started her own line of beauty a play-off series before anyone starts y GOuGh products. Anthony says that he and Vasquez keep their now a new equilibrium. “He has definitely grown and stockpiling championship confetti in the Garden roof. y GOuGh RO individual businesses separate (“we have our own enti- matured,” says Frazier. There’s little evidence that New York has the power to ERO

ties”), but adds that Vasquez encourages him to look Anthony has also gotten better at handling New withstand a seven-game series with the brilliant James By L G By Le

beyond the traditional borders of sports. “She doesn’t York. Many athletes who play in the city prefer to live and Miami. These Knicks are old and fitful and still in

look at me as an athlete at all,” Anthony says. “She’s across the river in New Jersey or secluded in leafy capable of lethargic lapses. But energy has returned LOR Ai AILORING

always been the person I can bring something to— suburbs. But Anthony and Vasquez, who were mar- to the Garden, and Anthony is being discussed as a . T n. T A

that’s a no-brainer.” ried in 2010 at Cipriani restaurant on 42nd Street, contender for the NBA’s most valuable player award. EAN Meanwhile, Carmelo has refined Carmelo. Anthony chose to live in Manhattan, not far from the Garden, Knicks shooting guard J.R. Smith, who played with is among the wave of NBA stars who have prioritized and they have thrown themselves into city life: There Anthony in Denver, notices new assertiveness in his OBBy McLe OBBy McL fashion down to idiosyncratic details, migrating away were Carmelo and La La at a Lincoln Center fund- teammate. “I think he’s been more of a leader,” he says. By B

from blankety suits and garish ties to slimmer-fitting raiser for President Obama; at the U.S. Open to see “He’s just been more vocal.” G By B Ivy League looks: sweaters, tweeds, thick-rimmed Serena Williams; in the VIP section at a Jay-Z show in “Last year I was pretty much on a wild streak, going in ROOM eyeglasses. The Michael Jordan generation may have Brooklyn. “A lot of athletes are just known for being in and out of clubs and stuff like that, and this year he ROOMING . G favored silk and wide lapels, but today’s players have athletes,” Anthony says. “You can come to a place like told me to buckle down,” Smith admits. “I’m not so sure . G BB New York and diversify yourself.” EBB

gravitated toward smaller boutique designers and a year or two ago he would have told me that.” -We-W oddball accessories: James has sat in the front row at “This is where Melo started his life,” says Swann. “I Anthony has yet to conquer New York, and there’s AMS i

Michael Bastian menswear shows; Oklahoma City’s think it’s just in his blood. It’s for some and not for oth- no assurance he will. But there’s undeniable change. LL ILLIAMS Kevin Durant popularized backpacks over dress ers. It is for him.” There’s a fight, a commitment, a pronounced confi- h WiW LA

shirts; Durant’s teammate Russell Westbrook is fond Of course New York can also be an exhausting dence. Anthony has been collecting wine, and when I i ALILA of eyewear that makes him look like a lost member of grind: the 24/7 media; the elevation of minor disputes ask him if there’s a special bottle that’s being held for AL : kh Weezer. Anthony, who uses a personal stylist, Khalilah into consuming dramas; the daily back-page judg- a championship, he smiles. “There’s a couple for those : kh

Williams-Webb, is part of this trend. “Athletes have ments of the tabloid newspapers. Anthony endures moments.” (Yes: He said moments.) You might not find TOR Di EDITOR

become more in tune to the fashion world,” he says. that frenzy regularly. In January rumors surface that him in the NBA finals this season. But there’s a new T e ET

Marcus Wainwright of Rag & Bone, who worked with he and Vasquez had been living separately, but soon awareness of what Carmelo Anthony can do. If you ever k ARkeAR Anthony on a custom tuxedo for the 2012 Met Costume Vasquez is at Anthony’s side when the Knicks play the meet up, you will know exactly who he is. • M

0413_WSJ_Melo_03.indd 86 2/7/13 12:04 PM 0413_WSJ_Melo_02.indd 87 2/5/13 5:03 PM 02072013110504 Approved with warnings 02052013162219 y THe eScApe BB ArTiST Last year, the influential artist Mike Kelley committed suicide. The news shocked the art world. After all, his works were selling for millions, and a major retrospective is still set to travel to the U.S. this year. Here, an account of his extraordinary life—and his troubled last days.

portraitsBxrchic of tx dit, ium thEaut artist xmmxlxr pxrrum Kelley’sdxssinihitxt second home, xmnit BY kellY crow photographY BY catherine opie locatedmagnimxt in South qui Pasadena. bxrum oppositevxnditas page: dxlxrxpxd mike Kelley xt xt photographedvxrx tx xum by xnt,grant cxrx aligni mudfordint.a inpit 1989, iurxhxn left, duntixn and on dplabecember ilibus 7, milluptax2011, at his officepxrisquxs in highland mi, sxllati Park,

from left to right: Photo © grant mudford, collection Santa BarBara muSeum of art; tyler hu by tbusciatixrumyler hubby. xssusax.

0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_02.indd 88 2/6/13 5:45 PM 0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_02.indd 89 2/6/13 5:45 PM 02062013164811 Approved with warnings 02062013164708 ast December, on a cold night in tribute with their own pop-up shows of his art. focus on the art he created—and the charitable founda- called herself Niagara, formed a band named after one

Amsterdam, a crowd packed into the newly Kelley matters to art history in part because he dis- tion he formed to help artists on the rise. ss of their favorite B-movies Destroy All Monsters. During , y expanded Stedelijk Museum for the open- covered a potent way to pick up where Pop art left off. Grief rarely churns out neatly or quickly, though. se their first concert, at a comic-book convention, they B ing of a major retrospective of Los Angeles When he was growing up in a Detroit suburb, the art In most art circles, Kelley’s absence still causes oU took to the stage and played a violin, coffee can, saxo- TRAL mA hoto RDH en

establishment reveled in Andy Warhol’s slick appropri- consternation. At one point during the party in C artist Mike Kelley. The 19th-century insti- , P phone and vacuum cleaner. Ten minutes and one Bad .

tution had just undergone a nine-year, $172 million ation of soup cans and Hollywood starlets. But by the Amsterdam, Dutch art historian Petronella Zeeman le Sabbath song later, Loren said they were asked to leave. L oLiC Bi overhaul—much of it poured into the construction of time Kelley reached adolescence in the 1970s, Detroit’s summed up the sentiment in a whisper: “It’s terrible, terdam CATH S a creamy new wing dubbed The Bathtub. Inaugurating car factories were shuttering, and whatever pop cul- but why isn’t he here? Why, when his career was aria B hree years later, Kelley and Shaw took am S V

the space with a show of Kelley’s work was designed to ture he encountered didn’t gleam—it sneered: Iggy Pop going strong and he had this big show coming up, did .com; their quirky sensibilities to the California S S ion

send a signal to the contemporary art world that the and the Stooges; Sex to Sexty, a cheeky comic; school he kill himself?” S eum Institute of the Arts, a Los Angeles mu

museum was back, and smartly so. hazing rituals; and soiled stuffed animals. Could fine dimen art school whose faculty was enviably

JK Picture

Organizers devoted nearly six years to chronicling art really be made from middle-class vernacular? Did ike kelley’s stuDio compound in the w stacked with successful conceptual art- the basements of America have anything profound to crEativE timE the career of this provocative performer, painter, historic Highland Park neighborhood tedeli Tists like John Baldessari and Douglas Huebler and hite/J clockwise from left: Kelley tallation

musician, sculptor and installation artist, and the 200 say? Kelley was among the first to seek an answer. of Los Angeles sits on a busy street w maverick performers like Laurie Anderson. Shaw says Sy S S in los angeles in 1989; artworks on display represented some of Kelley’s best. Oursler said, “He looked at Pop and thought, ‘Why behind a high wall. The juxtaposition in that once Kelley set his mind to studying at CalArts, Superman-inspired Kandor These included his 1987 masterpiece More Love Hours did they stop there? Why is it all so tasteful? Why is fitting because the division between he quickly developed a fierce affection for Los Angeles, 15, 2007; Catholic Birdhouse, courte part of Kelley’s senior Than Can Ever Be Repaid, a cheery yet unnerving didn’t they go all the way down because there are Mpeople’s public and private spheres—and particularly By JoS hua a laid-back city that didn’t spook him like the art- thesis, 1978. tapestry he created by sewing together dozens of cro- plenty of sublevels in society to explore.’ ” what they do at home where no one is watching—is a es , 1991-1999 world capital, New York. Curator Paul Schimmel, the

cheted dolls and handmade stuffed animals he found At a time when rising-star artists earned their major theme in Kelley’s art. When he initially bought LL iT former chief curator at Los Angeles County Museum S Photo e

at flea markets—objects of homespun affection that stripes in New York, Kelley also stood apart for cham- the property on Figueroa Street a couple decades ago, AT of Contemporary Art, recalls meeting Kelley at a roof- ngele

had been tossed out. pioning Los Angeles, a once-sleepy art scene that it doubled as his home. He painted its eaves and kitchen iTH s top barbecue. “He didn’t look like a California dude,

Nearly everyone who played a role in Kelley’s now simmers with younger talents like painter Mark cabinets green and filled the backyard pool with soil so W but intellectually he willed himself into becoming the loS a ss , 95 1/2 X 123 3/16 X 86 3/8 three-decade career came to the opening party Grotjahn and sculptor Sterling Ruby—both in their he could plant a cactus garden atop it instead. paradigm for what a young L.A. artist could be—and

early-to-mid forties—who say they moved there in The cozy rooms of this stucco house still brim with ection he had no interest in ever leaving,” says Schimmel. J allery, allery, TRAL mA ro part to study with Kelley or work nearby. In fact, his hints of him. There is a cactus-shaped floor lamp in the en Kelley also impressed Richard Armstrong, now the thrift-store aesthetic has arguably influenced the way living room made from horseshoes (he loved national director of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New Stein g

“he didn’t look ideo P

younger artists everywhere think about making art. park–lodge decor). A nearby wall displays his vast CD en York, who then ran the La Jolla (now San Diego) Museum V like a california “Mike brought the lowest, base forms of pop culture collection (he loved Sun Ra). There’s also a white, unas- DoRiZeD C of Contemporary Art, which was then the region’s top eo with D

dude, but into the arts,” says Ruby. “That’s big with my genera- suming building out back, behind the “pool,” where he ; contemporary art museum. Armstrong says he pur- tion, but he was the pioneer.” worked and often slept—even after he bought another chased an artwork from Kelley’s senior show: Catholic media elley elley intellectually The retrospective that began in Amsterdam will home seven years ago in nearby South Pasadena. ed Birdhouse, a strangely shaped white birdhouse in which Sy of Perry ruB X ermuelen

travel to Paris’s Centre Pompidou in May and then V he willed himself Home is a motif that threads all the way to the mi the artist had carved two holes, one large and one small, mi Ke K mi Ke K

of on to New York’s MoMA PS1 in October before fin- beginning of his art. Michael Duffy Kelley was born of with corresponding signs that read “the easy way”

into becoming , 2007,

ishing early next year at Los Angeles’s Museum of in Wayne, Michigan, on October 27, 1954. His father, corine and “the hard way.” Armstrong liked Kelley’s sense of ate y tate t

the paradigm for mage courte Contemporary Art. And on May 11, Detroit’s Museum Henry, was a devout Catholic who managed janitors for B humor so much he invited the artist to do a performance , i nDoR 15 S ©eS what a young l.a. of Contemporary Art unveils Mobile Homestead, a a public school system. His mother, Rita, worked as a S ©eS at his museum a few months later. Oursler, a classmate hoto KA , each art art .

full-scale replica of Kelley’s childhood home that the convenience-store clerk and later as a cook for the Ford of Kelley, drove him there and watched, grinning, as

artist could in of of

, 2010, P

artist commissioned. Together, the retrospective and Company’s executive canteen. The Kelleys slipcov- elley the 20-person audience tried to make sense of Kelley’s be—and he had the public-art house in Detroit will offer audiences ered their living-room sofa in clear plastic and hoped style. At the time, performance art was all about action: Ke K tation no interest their best chance in decades to experience the whole their four children would grow up to be teachers or, mi Vito Acconci rolling, naked, beneath a ramp in a gallery; S foundation foundation

layered sweep of his oeuvre. even better, priests. Their youngest, Michael, arrived ion; Chris Burden asking a friend to shoot his arm with a

in ever leaving.” S 84 X 23 X 17 ½ SS train er

Yet Mike Kelley remains something of an enigma, nearly a decade after his siblings. He spent much of his rifle. Kelley stood beside a houseplant and delivered a Z elley —paul schimmel elley even to his closest friends and family. Short and foul- childhood alone, reading in his room. ermi frenetic 45-minute monologue about a man who was mouthed, with blue eyes and a boisterous cackle, Kelley At one point, he stopped going to mass and started convinced that the plant was controlling his thoughts. central deodori

mi Ke K mi Ke K

settled near the Pacific Ocean but preferred the desert. playing with a neighborhood boy whose parents were .; At the end, Kelley’s character exacts revenge by rip- Sy Sy that night, from multimedia artist Tony Oursler— He hated to drive or fly—his agoraphobia and anxiety glass blowers—what amounted to his first encounter in ping one of the plant’s leaves. Several members audibly

detroit floating world Kelley’s longtime friend—to major German collector growing worse over the course of his life. His artworks with art. Pretty soon, the family’s glass studio became gasped. “You couldn’t see him perform without feeling courte courte left: Deodorized Central

Harald Falckenberg and New York collectors Eileen earned him a fortune, yet he shopped mainly at second- his creative “refuge,” says George Kelley, his older , rePrinted with P invigorated and confused,” says Oursler. “You real- mass With satellites, and Michael Cohen. Even Dutch Prince Constantijn hand stores and wore a pair of his father’s red loafers brother. Kelley started telling everyone he intended 37 X 40 X 40 ized you were caught up in a tide-pool of Freudian and 1991–1999, installed to andoned . at Perry rubenstein in stopped by. for years. He painted just about every bedroom he ever to be an artist. aB Jungian misnomers with a punk overtone to it all—he es es Times gallery in l.a. last year.

One person was missing, though: the artist, who had a particular shade of cucumber green. The news didn’t go over well with his parents, but by the was chaos and utter brilliance.”

. all artworK . all artworK in in of

had committed suicide in his South Pasadena home Until now, few details have emerged about the man- adolescence, he had developed a stubborn streak, his By 1982, Kelley had signed with two of the country’s Los AngeL nearly a year earlier at the age of 57. ner and possible reasons for his death. Even friends brother says: In high school, Kelley taught himself to 19 X 18 X 18 top young galleries, Metro Pictures in New York and front In a field that reveres greatness and immortalizes who knew him say they are still sifting for clues. He sew and once wore a thrift-store dress to class mainly Rosamund Felsen in Los Angeles. Right away, Felsen from in

its own, Kelley’s death stunned the contemporary art was depressed and drinking heavily, they say, but was to annoy his parents. He and his friends also spent long said Pasadena real-estate developer Robert Rowan and AD ary Te S, 22 X 18.5 X 18.5 world—and haunts it still. Almost immediately after the source of his pain a recent heartbreak or some- hours inventing their own comic-book series featuring S, 22 X 18.5 X 18.5 Love Boat producer Douglas Cramer paid $600 or more S V the news of his death broke, cryptic signs started thing that stretched further back? He was working an impish hero, Turd Man. for Kelley’s black-and-white paintings of monkeys omes S ion hingle popping up on Manhattan lampposts that read “I Saw furiously on several ambitious projects right up to the By the time artist Jim Shaw met Kelley outside a fig- hingle and symmetrical shapes. Three years after that, he S S BiLe H

Mike Kelley Today.” In Highland Park, California, end, and some say he felt enormous pressure to keep ure-drawing class at the University of Michigan in Ann dimen exhibited his work in the Whitney Biennial, an artistic

mo e PoS ite where Kelley kept his studio, an empty carport half pace with his ideas and the art world’s expectations Arbor, Shaw recognized him immediately as a “fellow PoS ite endorsement he would accept seven more times over TH

a block away transformed into an overnight shrine. of him. To a few, he confided he was even struggling weirdo.” In class, they studied Abstract Expressionism J; the course of his career. com com , , The artist’s staff and friends fielded weeping calls to keep faith in art itself, an existential crisis all its with teachers who sported crew cuts. But after hours, atellite In 1987, he began teaching at the Art Center College .; S rooi tr avEling show

aint aint own for a man who had always prized the pursuit of they hung out with anything-goes guys like Cary in of Design in Pasadena, a sign among his peers that he right: mobile from Korea and grief-stricken emails from London, an , P , P V Cologne and Tokyo, where galleries and auction art above all else. Loren, a hippie-haired musician who built fanciful Se from toP: ©1989 randy leffingwell, had “arrived.” That same year he started toying with Homestead in front wi an of the abandoned K -J wood houses have sold his works for up to $3 million apiece. Kelley’s studio manager, Mary Clare Stevens, wishes papier-mâché theater sets in his loft. In 1973, Kelley, wood the material that would earn him an international repu- detroit central train cloc 1978, gert 54 X 152 X 63 Within months, at least eight U.S. museums paid everyone would stop parsing his death altogether and Shaw, Loren and Loren’s girlfriend, Lynn Rovner, who 1978, tation: stuffed animals. In all his years rooting through Station, 2010.

0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_02.indd 90 2/6/13 5:45 PM 0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_02.indd 91 2/6/13 5:45 PM 02062013164708 02062013164811 Approved with warnings flea-market bins, he had grown to feel a particular his stepped-up workload might be exacerbating his curiosity about the hand-knit dolls and secondhand agoraphobia. When the pair flew to New York for the sock monkeys he always found on offer. The question “Catholic Tastes” opening, she said Kelley made their Kelley asked hinged on the economics of exchange: driver stop four times between the airport and the How many hours of love did the grannies who sewed hotel, ostensibly so he could use the restroom. She sus- such creatures hope to engender—and had they been pected it had more to do with anxiety. paid in full? Few artists at the time were interested in Ironically, friends say these were some of his happi- looking closely at the causes and uneasy consequences est years. In 2000, he and Pace broke up, but the pair of familial entanglements. The fact that he was a man remained close friends. Soon Kelley began dating a interested in handicraft struck others as odder still. A cherry-haired Italian curator, Emi Fontana. He threw few saw these stuffed animals as evidence of something legendary parties at his Figueroa Street home and nefarious and wondered if he had suffered some form studio each Thanksgiving and Fourth of July. He was of child abuse, an allegation he consistently denied to as outspoken as ever, and often ended these meals by friends throughout his life even though it continues to regaling friends and neighbors with tall tales about his crop up in public discussions of his art. supposedly hardscrabble childhood, according to art- Felsen, his dealer, wasn’t sure how collectors would ists Diana Thater and T. Kelly Mason, who lived next react when he splayed blankets across her gallery floor door. Thater’s favorite Kelley story: He told her that to and arrayed tattered animals around them in formal get to school, he had to step across an open sewer. “I groupings, like they were attending a picnic without was so gullible, I always believed him,” she says, laugh- people. The biggest piece in the 1987 show, More Love ing. (Eventually, she learned that Kelley had actually Hours Than Can Ever Be Repaid, was composed of ani- grown up in a sanitary middle-class neighborhood.) mals and afghans and stretched 10 feet wide. He hung Around 2004, he switched from Metro Pictures to this on the wall next to The Wages of Sin, a pedestal the bigger Gagosian Gallery, in large part because he table dripping with candles in rainbow hues, as though wanted room to display outsize artworks. Gagosian audiences were standing before a holy shrine at mass, also pledged to pay his production costs for the first a nod to his Catholic upbringing. The show didn’t sell five years after joining up. Kelley plunged in by orches- especially well, but after More Love and The Wages of trating one of his most immersive environments ever, Sin debuted in that year’s Whitney Biennial it never left. Day Is Done. For years, Kelley had scoured yearbooks The museum bought both pieces for $9,000—his high- for images of those curious rituals and rites of passage est price at the time. that invariably crop up in American high schools, like In 1991, the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington 4-H Club and prom. Then over the course of a summer devoted a show to these same plush pieces, and for he hired dozens of extras and restaged at least 30 of the first time Kelley invited his brother George and the captured moments, scripting scenes as though the sister-in-law Debbie to take a look. The invitation was act of participation in the rituals had wrecked psycho- significant—according to his girlfriend at the time, logical havoc on its members. the choreographer Anita Pace, Kelley told his relatives Day Is Done was a commercial hit for Gagosian, little about his burgeoning art career because he didn’t with sections of his installation selling to buyers believe they would appreciate his artwork. George says like Los Angeles billionaire Eli Broad for between his brother was probably right—it only mattered to $225,000 and $500,000 apiece. Friends say Kelley their parents that Kelley had secured a teaching job. was pleasantly surprised by all the attention. That For his part, George says he guffawed when he walked same year, he stopped teaching, telling Art Center he into the museum. Stuffed animals? Minutes later, a had grown too busy. local reporter approached George and asked if his little brother had ever been sexually abused. George nearly n January 10, 2011—roughly a year threw a punch. Their parents were strict and so were the before Kelley died—Gagosian Gallery in nuns at school, but he knew of no such trauma. George Beverly Hills threw a dinner for the art- told his brother what had happened. He also apologized ist following the opening of his latest for chuckling at first glance. Kelley slapped him on the show, “Exploded Fortress of Solitude.” back: “Good, it’s supposed to be funny.” OThe show amounted to a new blend of two major bod- From then on, the art world demanded autobiog- ies of work he had been developing for years. There raphy from Kelley. Rather than quell the scrutiny, he were toga-party videos reminiscent of the repressed- stepped fully into the role of provocateur—toying memory series Extracurricular Activity Projective with critics and waffling continually between - mem Reconstruction of which Day Is Done is a part. And ory and myth in his life. In an essay first published in there were also neon-hued cityscape sculptures and Architecture New York in 1996, Kelley wrote, “I had to tar-like grotto installations referencing one of his abandon working with stuffed animals for this rea- other ongoing series, Kandor, named after Superman’s son. There was simply nothing I could do to counter home city. In comic-book lore, the superhero’s home the pervasive psycho-autobiographic interpretation planet is destroyed but not before he’s able to shrink of these materials. I decided, instead, to embrace the his city and ferry it to his earthly fortress. social role projected on me, to become what people Several people at the dinner after the opening say crEaturE comforts wanted me to become: a victim.” When the Whitney they were approached by Kelley’s girlfriend at the more Love Hours Than Can ever Be Repaid and The gave him his first mid-career survey in 1993, he called time, Trulee Grace Hall, a design student he’d met sev- Wages of sin, Kelley’s 1987 the show “Catholic Tastes” and posed on its catalogue eral years after he stopped teaching. “Mike doesn’t see work featuring stuffed cover dressed in a janitor’s jumpsuit, mop in hand—a enough of his friends,” she said, to attendees such as animals, afghans and a pedestal with candles. reference to his father’s profession. It was also around Pace, Kelley’s ex-girlfriend, and artist Marnie Weber, this time that his dealer, Felsen, realized the stress of who is married to Kelley’s longtime friend Jim Shaw.

0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_03.indd 92 2/7/13 1:49 PM 0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_02.indd 93 2/6/13 5:45 PM 02072013125035 02062013164708 Sometime after New Year’s, Kelley agreed to try rehab Diana Thater and T. Kelly Mason noticed him pad- Hard things had happened in the past few years: at a San Diego facility that specialized in treating alco- ding around and they said a brief hello.

Kelley’s older brother Gary, a retired policeman, had Nd

ou holics. But being stripped of his prescription sleeping Sometime after that, either late Sunday night or the S

committed suicide; Kelley only told a few people, ound pills—and the withdrawals—left him wide awake and following Monday, he went back to his green house on TH including his longtime friend Cary Loren. His older .; 52 X 23 X in second-guessing his decision. Eight days in, the artist the hill and stepped into the second-floor bathroom. sister Nancy and mother died shortly thereafter. His checked himself out and came home. With him, he carried a heartbreaking arsenal that remaining brother, George, and others around him It is a testament to Kelley’s devotion to the Los included a Smith & Wesson .38-caliber revolver, Xanax, noticed that Kelley was drinking gin and vodka pretty Angeles art scene that in his final days he continued to vodka, soda pop, peppermint-flavored liquid soap— heavily, something he hadn’t done to excess since his S, 96 X 127 X 5 pop into the occasional art opening. On January 14, he and a barbecue grill. He covered a pair of ceiling vents youth. He also suffered from heart disease and a mild art

e, 2 PArTS, 96 X 127 X 5 iN.; 52 X 23 X turned up at a show and bumped into Sterling Ruby, his with duct tape to make the bathroom airtight and then case of gout, and increasingly he depended on Hall to

TTL e FrieNd, 2007, ToY Wi former teaching assistant. Ruby says he was shaken lit the grill’s charcoal briquettes. As the grill’s toxic aSe, 2 P Li studio visit drive him around town. B

TAL BAS when he casually asked Kelley how he was. “I’m hor- carbon-monoxide fumes began to build, he tossed YS a view of the back On September 7, 2011, the Guardian came out S little friend, 2007, toy with S oy porch of Kelley’s , Me rible, I’m depressed,” Kelley told him. Ruby suggested some pillows into the tub and climbed atop them to metal t

with a scathing review of Kelley’s show at Gagosian’s , studio compound,

ood he take a vacation—with the Stedelijk retrospective breathe and wait, a photograph of ex-girlfriend Hall am now the offices of London outpost, a continuation of the hybrid pieces he d PAM To

wood already in the works, Kelley was often spending week- taped low on the wall beside him. AN his foundation. the had begun in Beverly Hills. With the headline “Planet on filled-in pool, on the eY ends at his studio trying to catch up. The pair made On Tuesday morning, Kelley’s college friend Shaw

Bunkem,” the review ended with a searing dismissal of LL left, is just visible. plans to meet at Columbo’s, Kelley’s favorite Italian called the house and got no answer. Later that after- both the man and his latest Superman-themed pieces: piano bar, for dinner a couple weeks later. noon, Kelley’s therapist called the studio to let them “Kelley has been thinking about this stuff for more X candleS From there, things continued to spiral: On January know he had missed an appointment. The studio called miKe Kelley and P e: MiKe Ke

than 20 years. What does it all add up to? You almost wa N, N, WAX CANdLeS oN W , 24, Kelley went to lunch with John Welchman, an art Weber, and together with Welchman and another PAG or

expect to see a dead horse up there on screen, getting age:

modEl living iS historian who married Kelley’s ex-girlfriend Anita mutual friend, Fred Nilsson, they agreed to go over to a good flogging. Kelley overdoes it, time and again. Ah, corn clockwise from left: Kelley TH Kelley’s house. It was about 5:30 p.m., already dusk, Y. . thiS P

loved cacti, like this one; you might say, but that’s the point. It’s what he does, to e and no lights were on. Welchman hoped briefly that a cactus lamp and some LL the sound of all that cinematic thrashing.” e

of the artist’s cds at elley Kelley was out because he had met a woman. Nilsson Rafael Jablonka, Kelley’s dealer based in Cologne, VaS, dried “you couldn’t see the studio compound; a scrambled up the drainpipe of the two-story home can

model of the retrospective saw the artist the following night at the London oN CANvAS, dried C him perform mi Ke K

traveling to the centre on and peered into several windows. When he made it to S e oF MiKe K

opening and realized he was in “destructive shape,” of Pompidou in Paris. without feeling the bathroom, he saw Kelley’s legs in the tub. Weber, drinking heavily and acting tensely toward his girl-

STAT LegAcy: tate invigorated and distraught, called 911. The coroner later ruled the AFGHANS d AFGHANS friend. Jablonka says he and the artist had made afghan death a suicide by carbon-monoxide poisoning; the

tentative plans to meet again in the Austrian Alps a S ©eS confused. you the mike keLLey and revolver was never used. S art

few days later to check out a company that special- MALS AN MALS

i realized you were

N oF ArTS ©e fOundAtiOn of izes in crystals—something Kelley was curious to io AN little more than a year later, the animal caught up in a tide-

mull over for future work—but the artist backed out. AT fOr the Arts Nd

FF ed studio where Kelley felt most at home is

Another group of friends, including Shaw and Oursler, u pool of freudian ou still trying to recalibrate. Since he left tuffed

had invited Kelley and Hall to join them for a reunion foundation

S eY F and jungian no note, Stevens and her staff of eight

weekend in Paris. Oursler says he even tried to assuage LL MA de ST e

d have had to improvise. Kelley’s agoraphobia by reminding him he wouldn’t elley misnomers with AFirst there was the upending of the Stedelijk show, the charitable entity that Kelley have to fly; he could ride the train from London. handmade a punk overtone

Nd HAN

mi Ke K which had to be reworked so it would feel more like an started in 2008 to support artists But when Oursler arrived in Paris, he got word that ou Sy

TeSY MiKe K to it all—he was ultimate survey of Kelley’s greatest hits. The art loans, has taken on added significance—and a

Kelley had changed his mind and had flown straight back found

our chaos and utter the catalogue, the layout of the pieces in the galler- high-profile board of trustees—since , 1987, F to L.A. Oursler was disappointed and confused. “That C courte , 1987,

er ies—everything suddenly had to be reconfigured. On his death. Chairman Paul Schimmel,

was our first collective sign that something was really er brilliance.” sin

K the night the exhibit opened, the studio staff intended former chief curator of Los Angeles’s wrong,” he says. Just after their return, Hall broke up oF ar —tony ousler to amble over to a nearby bar so they could toast their Museum of Contemporary Art, says

with Kelley and moved out. For days after, Kelley called ges

S m. P leader on their own. But by the time the reception the artist used to give away his own

Shaw and his wife seeking solace over hours-long con- GLAS M. PArK e WA THE WAGES OF SIN ended, they were too exhausted and went to bed. money, but now the board plans to TH d

versations. Few blamed her for leaving—Loren said the dou Pace and now serves as president of the artist’s foun- Now, they’ve turned their attention to finishing leverage occasional sales of his art dougla and “caretaking role was a lot for her to shoulder.” After the y

B dation. Kelley told him he was overwhelmed by the an even more ambitious project in Detroit, Mobile to deliver direct grants to artists, iD

breakup, his friends decided to circle round more often. oTo BY

PA prospect of helping curators finish the retrospective. Homestead. Years ago, Kelley tried and failed to buy curators, critics, musicians and cul- e

On November 29, a Los Angeles art space called hoto S PH He spoke about possibly starting fresh in New York or his childhood home on Palmer Road in Westlake. tural groups that Kelley might have S P

PRISM opened a survey about Kelley’s college-era eLe Berlin, where he wouldn’t have to drive. Welchman More recently, he asked the city’s new Museum of admired, particularly outside the band, Destroy All Monsters, which had regrouped sev-

S ANG was surprised by the confessional bent of their conver- angele Contemporary Art if he could build a replica of it on their artistic mainstream. n eVeR Be R o

eral times in the years since. Loren, one of the original S sation, particularly when Kelley mentioned how he had grounds, and the museum agreed. This house, once com- Kelley was only 54 when he created his lo n CA Y, L

band members, who now runs a bookstore in Detroit, ,

er been mulling the consequences of his long-ago deci- pleted in May, will be used to showcase local artists, the foundation, making him one of got nervous after the artist gave him a big hug at the s THA sion never to marry or have children of his own. “I’ve museum said. A pair of stacked basements underneath the youngest artists ever to do so, opening and said “he loved me, really happy, like he UR o gallery

eN GALL given my whole life to being an artist, every ounce, so will also be used for occasional artistic events. behind others formed by Keith Haring

was saying goodbye.” Loren looked down and noticed LS S en e

H oVe that there’s nothing left,” he told Welchman. “Now I In a design twist, the front section of Kelley’s rep- and Robert Mapplethorpe, says Kelley had scrawled a note on the backside of one of his fel need something else, but I’m emptied out.” lica can also be detached and driven around like a Christine Vincent, an Aspen Institute Re L MORE LOVE HOURS THAN CAN EVER BE REPAID AN uNd F hands that read, “Keep your mouth shut.” eY mo Y,

LL On Saturday, January 29, Pace was perform- mobile home. Kelley insisted that this doppelganger— expert on artist-endowed foundations. , e e

With the holidays approaching, Kelley’s friends and SAM amund elley LL

S ing a piece of choreography along a staircase at the with its matching white siding and green door—be It also appears to be well stocked: ro staff instituted an informal “Mike watch” to check on e ro elley W Welcome Inn in nearby Eagle Rock, California, as constructed first, so that he could film it winding its Schimmel says its holdings include at him daily. Sometimes these visits led to lengthy conver- vie mi Ke K iew

Ke K part of a citywide exhibition called “Pacific Standard way from downtown Detroit to the house in the sub- least 500 of Kelley’s artworks. spEaking volumEs N V e oF MiKe K of sations when he admitted his drinking was making his mi

from left: an exhibition io Ad: MiKe K Time.” During the 5:30 p.m. performance, she noticed urbs. On the day of its maiden voyage, the mobile depression worse; other times, he was defensive. Loren re catalogue; a bookshelf in STAT Above: Members of the artist’s estate trust tate

e Kelley standing nearby, staring intently at her “like home made it less than a mile along its route before

the office of mary eS tried to convince him to spend Christmas in Detroit, © and his foundation include, from left: S SP a proud father.” By the time the performance ended turning a corner too tightly and falling over. The tallation NT NSTALLAT clare Stevens, the S SPread: John C. Welchman, Marnie Weber, Paul S and Oursler invited him to do the same in New York. He i

executive director of the in

N. Schimmel, Jim Shaw, Mary Clare Stevens, iou and she had changed her clothes, she looked around facade has since been repaired, but friends say Kelley . V

spent it in Los Angeles, at the home of longtime collec- reviou

artist’s foundation, at in Joan Weinstein and Gary Cypres. 23 i eLeMe P

re for him, but he had already left. The following day, always worried over it like an omen. 23 P the studio compound. tor and occasional collaborator Khourosh Larizadeh. element © •

0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_03.indd 95 2/7/13 1:49 PM 0413_WSJ_MikeKelly_02.indd 94 2/6/13 5:45 PM 02072013125035 02062013164811 Approved with warnings THE CLASSICAL VIEW A well-cut suit plays a starring role in any wardrobe. Here, six rising stars from the worlds of dance, music, opera and theater put the spotlight on flawless style.

rashauN miTChell, mOderN daNCer aNd ChOreOgraPher Growing up in Atlanta, Mitchell entertained himself by making up dance routines. But it wasn’t until he saw a modern dance performance at 15 at a theatrical summer camp that he considered professional training. “It was the first time I had experienced any sort of concert dance, and the image shifted my brain,” says the photography by andreas larsson styling by david farber 34-year-old. “I thought, This is what I have to do with my life.” The late start was no hindrance: After graduating from Sarah Lawrence College, Mitchell david hallberg, balleT daNCer spent eight years performing As a 13-year-old ballet beginner, the South Dakota native never dreamt that one day he would be leaping across the Bolshoi Ballet’s with the prestigious Merce Moscow stage. But two years ago, the 30-year-old became the first American to join the famed Russian dance company as a Cunningham Dance Company permanent member. He still maintains a stateside base at the American Ballet Theater, where he’s a principal dancer. Despite having before leaving to launch his starred in everything from Romeo and Juliet to Don Quixote, Hallberg sees a fresh challenge in each new production. “The true test career as an independent is what you are bringing to a role that’s been done hundreds of times,” he says. “Some artists succeed, some don’t.” choreographer. In March, he celebrated the world premiere of Hallberg wears Burberry Prorsum. his latest work, Interface, at New York’s Baryshnikov Arts Center.

96 Mitchell wears Louis Vuitton.

0413_WSJ_FashionPortfolio_02.indd 96 2/5/13 8:02 PM 0413_WSJ_FashionPortfolio_02.indd 97 2/5/13 8:02 PM 02052013190335 02052013190335 aNThONy rOTh COsTaNZO, COuNTerTeNOr The New York–based opera singer is nothing if not determined. “I spent every weekend in college traveling to voice lessons, and I was always in bed by 11 when everyone else was out partying,” says the 30-year-old Princeton grad, who began singing professionally at age 11 and has starred in roles everywhere from New York’s Metropolitan Opera to a Merchant Ivory film. “I didn’t have my first drink until I was 27, which was probably overkill, but it never felt like a huge sacrifice. Your body is your instrument.” evaN rOgisTer, CONduCTOr The devotion to his craft has The 33-year-old’s first foray into conducting involved a fireside poker rather than a baton. “When I was a kid, I saw a video of Leonard served him well: This spring Bernstein, and I used to conduct on the hearth of the fireplace,” the North Carolinian recalls. “I’ve wanted to be a conductor he returns to the Met for since I was about three.” Rogister studied at the Juilliard School and now performs in front of international audiences: in Stockholm at Handel’s Giulio Cesare before the Royal Swedish Opera, where last May he conducted Richard Wagner’s Lohengrin (a self-professed career high); and the Lyric Opera performing in Pergolesi’s Stabat of Chicago, where this spring he will lead superstar soprano Renée Fleming through A Streetcar Named Desire. Mater at the Glimmerglass Festival in July. Rogister wears Ermenegildo Zegna.

Costanzo wears Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière. 99

0413_WSJ_FashionPortfolio_02.indd 98 2/5/13 8:02 PM 0413_WSJ_FashionPortfolio_02.indd 99 2/5/13 8:02 PM 02052013190335 02052013190335 ; ATSON W ULIAN J AT

ONG W HI PRODUCTION C

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ANDMAR L TAILORING ; AT

ERNABE B Charlie siem, viOliNisT

NNA It’s safe to say that Siem is A the only musician to have PHOTOGRAPHED BY

been kissed by a nearly nude Lady Gaga while performing a fiendishly difficult solo—and not ITCHELL ROOMING

M miss a note. But he’s no stranger : G to the spotlight: The 27-year- AND old graduate has performed with members of The Who and OGISTER

, R modeled for karl Lagerfeld. OSTANZO But Siem has no intention . C of giving up his day job. “There

ITCHELL is a reason why the classics ARNER , M continue to be interpreted— W because they’re good,” says sam CraNe, aCTOr Siem, who will play venues For Crane, the son of British playwright Richard Crane and theater director Faynia Williams, joining the family business was a ALLBERG from Taiwan to Denmark this ICHELLE

natural choice. “Maybe I should have known better,” says the Oxford University–educated thespian, laughing. “But I guess you can’t help , H

M year. “Classical arts allow us to

but be influenced by your parents.” A personal highlight for the 33-year-old was performing in Henry IV at England’s Shakespeare’s BY

go beyond our physical world Globe theater in 2010. “It was pretty extraordinary. In the pit in the middle of the theater you have 700 or so people standing,” he says. and our physical forms into

“It’s the closest you will get as an actor to being a rock star.” OSTANZO something profound.” C Reporting by Adrienne Gaffney OR Crane wears a Tom Ford jacket and a Giorgio Armani sweater. F TAILORING and Raveena Parmar

Siem wears Giorgio Armani. 100 For details see Sources, page 114.

0413_WSJ_FashionPortfolio_02.indd 100 2/5/13 8:02 PM 0413_WSJ_FashionPortfolio_02.indd 101 2/5/13 8:02 PM 02052013190421 Approved with warnings 02052013190335 sTrAnger ThAn PArAdise Will the Philippine government’s ambitious plan to attract luxury tourism threaten the environmental wonders that have made the country one of the last unspoiled tropical destinations in Asia? Two islands—one pristine, the other overpopulated—sound a cautionary note.

BY wells tower photographY BY simon watson

sea worthy A view of the Bacuit Bay archipelago, composed of 45 islands and located in the Philippine provenance of Palawan. 103

0413_WSJ_Travel_02.indd 102 2/6/13 5:04 PM 0413_WSJ_Travel_02.indd 103 2/6/13 5:04 PM 02062013164724 02062013164725 sk the average Westerner what he nation. And, until recently, its roadways, airports and in a limestone breaker. Here, I swim through a canyon knows about the Philippines and the reply hotels simply couldn’t support large numbers of visi- filled with green water of such violent luminosity that will likely touch on Imelda Marcos’s shoe tors accustomed to first-world amenities. But in the it’s like breaststroking through a radioactive Midori collection, or Manny Pacquiao’s knock- hopes of winning a wedge of a market long dominated cocktail. Green waverings play on the high gray stone. out record, or the Bataan Death March, or by Thailand and Bali, the Philippines has committed Plashings and gaspings of a sparse pack of astounded Aother things that don’t necessarily scream “paradise.” unprecedented sums to its infrastructure budgets—$9.6 tourists echo off canyon walls. I suffer a vague despair For this, I am grateful. Arcing down toward El Nido, 260 billion in 2013—and undertaken an ambitious media that I am neither Brooke Shields nor 13 years old. air miles southwest of Manila, I gaze upon spectrums of campaign to help assuage its image problem. Gustillo takes me snorkeling in a coral grove, seawater rarely observed in nature—Scope mouthwash The efforts appear to be bearing fruit. Fueled in going so far as to summon a crowd of gorgeous fish by deepening to Edge Shave Gel—and, in my experience, part by the growing tourism industry, the nation’s chumming the water with hacked-up bits of less gor- never before observed without American accents and GDP swelled by 7.1 percent in the third quarter of last geous ones. I see clown fish being gleefully tickled by steel-drum tunes ringing in my ears. The breathless year, Asia’s second-fastest growth rate, bested only by anemones. I see schools of Day-Glo creatures that look reports I’ve heard of Bacuit Bay’s gob-stopping natural China. “There is no better time to be in the Philippines like they were designed by Wes Anderson. I hear the beauty seem, if anything, to have under-hyped the vista than now,” says Robbie Antonio, managing director snicky-snacky sound of coral breakfasting. He takes me passing beneath the plane. of Century Properties, a Manila real estate firm whose spelunking through a Neolithic cave that is both prettier coast of UtopIa Bacuit Bay, home to an archipelago of 45 islands array of luxury construction projects includes Trump and tidier than my house. He brings me to the summit of Clockwise from far bordering the South China Sea, occupies a place in the Tower, Makati City. “In our industry, demand for real a little mountain to take in a panorama of the bay and, left: The view from Filipino psychogeography like Alaska’s in the American estate has never been higher.” In 2012, the Philippines with any luck, to spot some of Palawan’s celebrity fauna: the Miniloc dock; Bacuit Bay’s small imagination: an unspoiled national Eden that few citi- received 4.3 million foreign visitors—more than twice green sea turtles, dugongs, sharks, whale sharks and lagoon; Pangulasian zens ever get around to visiting. The bay sits at the its intake of travelers just a decade ago—inspiring a rash the world’s most adorable ungulate, the Chihuahua-size Island. Opposite northernmost tip of Palawan, the Philippines’s least of media speculation that the nation’s beach towns may Philippine mouse deer. At this point, I’m so surfeited on page: Thatched-roof accommodations on sparsely populated, westernmost province, which soon go the way of Acapulco. In places like the Philippine natural spectacles, it’s faintly disappointing not to see Miniloc Island. brands itself “the last frontier.” The 19-seat turbo-prop island of Boracay, the transformation is well underway, a troupe of all these things executing Busby Berkeley charter to the bay’s lone village, El Nido, is reportedly so I head first to Bacuit Bay, to check out a diminishing maneuvers for my personal delectation. the most expensive domestic airfare in the Philippines. rarity: a self-proclaimed tropical paradise that contains Among Palawan’s deep trove of wildlife, the most (An informal survey of my plane mates turns up zero no go-kart tracks or daiquiri stands or much of anything precious to the local economy, Gustillo explains, is the As I clImb off Philippine passport holders and a predominance of but wild animals, water and sand. swiftlet, a small darting bird whose nests, built largely the boAt, A pAIr Japanese and South Koreans.) But the view would seem If, like me, you are not categorically keen on of its own spittle, are the essential ingredient in bird’s of long-tAIled to justify the ticket price: The bosky little ingots of land Southeast Asian beach resorts, it is probably because nest soup. A swiftlet nest (nido in Spanish, hence El studding the bay seem to bear no trace of human settle- you have been to Thailand’s Phuket or Krabi, where you Nido’s name) sells for upward of 200 Philippine pesos mAcAques, whom ment, and the blue-green tides are wholly unscarred by sat on heel-hammered sands drinking a warm gin and per gram ($2,265 a pound). A few years back, Gustillo I Assume Are on cruise ship or Jet Ski wakes. tonic from a literal bucket, wishing you’d discovered the eked out a dangerous living retrieving the nests from the pAyroll, The bay’s welcome lack of development is partly an place before the invention of fire-spinning, Katy Perry crevices high in the cliff faces. “So many of my friends effect of environmental progressivism (in 1998, the gov- and laser shows. But the Lagen Island Resort, where I died doing that kind of work,” he says, explaining that rove the clIff ernment declared northern Palawan a protected area) fetch up after a 40-minute boat cruise, is not that sort nido hunters disdain safety harnesses. “That’s how it is fAce, sAmplIng and partly an emblem of the country’s late-blooming of place. Situated on a remote and otherwise deserted with many Philippine people. They do what they have whIte flowers. tourism industry. Public perceptions, shaped by head- island distinguished by serous limestone cliffs, Lagen to live.” But in the name of social and ecological respon- line-grabbing earthquakes, typhoons and periodic has 50 private rooms, including a crescent of eight sibility, Lagen’s resort manager tells me later, the El kidnappings—mostly by Muslim extremists around hip-roofed cottages poised on stilts in an oval of placid Nido Resorts have made a point of hiring nido hunters the contested southern island of Mindanao—have water that’s the color of molten Coke bottles. Admission away from the cliffs and into careers less hazardous for helped chill leisure travelers’ enthusiasm for the island to this world of ecofriendly ease—the resort has its the swiftlets and for the hunters themselves. Most eatecteMpor sustibus audaept asimustor own desalination and power plants, and wastewater- molecum rene molupta processing technology—does come at a comparative ate in the afternoon, I return to Lagen sperum uta quissimusa premium. Cabanas here range from $400 to $650 per Island. I laze around my handsome cabin. proreped ent fugiae. Itae debis es ea custiam, net night, a relative fortune in a land where clean and com- I laze some more on my private bayside etur, sum acipsam fuga. Ur fortable beachfront accommodations abound at a tenth veranda, gnawing a mango of life-altering aut et et volor aut alita di or so the price. As I climb off the boat, a pair of long- excellence. I watch silvery small-fry dance dem listorro quunt options tailed macaques, whom I assume are on the payroll, editisi nctore enit ad maxim Land play across the water’s surface. Then I reflect that suntotaqui int eaEhenduci rove the cliff face, sampling white flowers. In the perfect they’re not dancing and playing at all. A bigger fish psandaectem. Itatur, sandam absence of thundering house music, the call of a lone, is down there trying to murder them. But such is the qui videndae. Nequibustem imentisquis prerferite eni coarse-throated bird thunders like a foghorn. weird, solipsistic derangement that starts to takes hold tentorate con et molore Under the unwalled reception pagoda, frozen tow- when you’re in a place where the chief anxiety is the volor molo eaque volores els and glasses of gelid melon puree are put into our slowness with which the shadows grow on the shore- equidelestor mi, odipsant doluptates hands. We are gently instructed to set our mobile front chaises. When the light begins to fail, a staffer devices to vibrate for the duration of our stay. We are announces that the sun will soon be going down. My shown the beach, the slate-tiled saltwater pool and the fellow guests and I get excited about the rotation of the al fresco cocktail shanty—phenomena my fellow trav- planet as though it were an impromptu performance elers quietly moan over and photograph with reverent by Tom Jones. We board a sunset-watching vessel and diligence. The temptation is strong to take to a lounger stare at the big Clingstone peach in the western sky. and lapse into basking-iguana consciousness. Instead, I The fiery lacuna the sun burns into my field of vision submit to the activities director’s recommendation to somehow feels like a valuable memento. head out on a tour of Bacuit Bay’s astonishments. Sumptuous though Lagen Island is, it seems a poor My guide, a friendly and knowledgeable young man relation compared to Pangulasian, westward across named Angelo Gustillo, ferries me across the bay to the bay. After a fire razed the property a few years a small lagoon, known locally as “the small lagoon,” back, Pangulasian underwent a ground-up restoration, which you get to by kayaking through a narrow fissure completed in October 2012. The result is a property

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0413_WSJ_Travel_02.indd 104 2/6/13 5:04 PM 0413_WSJ_Travel_02.indd 105 2/6/13 5:04 PM 02062013164725 02062013164725 nearly unsettling in its opulence. Accommodations at years, boat anchors and heedless divers have helped kill Pangulasian range from $800 per night for a beachfront off much of the surrounding hard coral. Leakage from cabana, to $3,300 per night for an eight-person suite of below-code septic systems has been known to taint the shoulderIng villas equipped with a private infinity pool. During my beach sands. Among Boracay’s service-sector work- through the visit, the staff is still making refinements. One of these is a ers, nervous rumors circulate that the environmental whIte beAch’s plan to query guests in advance as to their music and fra- authorities plan to shutter the island for a season or two grance preferences, and moments before arrival, to flood to let its ecosystem convalesce. tImes squAre– the cabana with, for example, gardenia and Metallica. Down by D Mall, the White Beach’s retail epicenter, I densIty throngs, At sunset, I sit on a balcony with Pangulasian’s pause to chat with boat tour operators Rene Plemones It’s hArd to manager, Lei Policarpio, dining on sea bass and foie and Reynald Bernardo, who fret that the island and their gras–whipped potatoes, watching the sun perform. I livelihood may fall victim to its own success. “The devel- greet hAppIly mention to Policarpio my strange new understanding opment is a problem here in Boracay,” Plemones says. those elements of the sun—Sol the product, Mister Tom Jones. “There are so many tourists, and so many hotels doing of tourIst She nods. “Yes, the sun is a product,” noting that the violations to the environment. How long will the tourists island’s east-west orientation treats the guest to two want to come here? We don’t know.” culture thAt solar recitals per day. “The beach is a product, too.” An official I queried at the Philippines Department hAve AlreAdy Then she frowns, looking down on the glowing strand. of Tourism claimed not to have heard of any plans to dImmed the In her opinion, the product could be handsomer. Too close the island, but the rumor is regrettably familiar many bits of shell and coral litter the sand. to Plemones and Bernardo. “Maybe it’s going to hap- AppeAl of plAces “You could have it sieved,” I suggest unseriously. pen,” says Bernardo. But even a rest-cure isn’t likely lIke phuket. “We’re going to try with rakes,” but if the rakes to restore Boracay to its former preeminence, he says. don’t do the trick, says Policarpio, she will have the “Boracay used to be number one, but now number one beach sieved. is Palawan. It’s the best island because of the nature. Boracay cannot be Palawan.” f Bacuit Bay feels like the Philippines’s best- Fair enough. But even here on Boracay, I ask, is there kept travel secret, its worst-kept secret is the maybe someplace to, you know, dodge the tourists and island of Boracay, in the region of Visayas, a get off the beaten track? Plemones muses, shakes his the idea of finding a spot less traveled by my fellow 40-minute flight south from Manila. Seen from head. “I don’t know about something like that.” tourists. In my guidebook, I find mention of a local above, such a profusion of windsurfers and para- But, the White Beach is not devoid of appeal. And attraction that seems like it might be underattended: a Isails mob the limeade-tone shallows that the island at mealtimes, it’s well worth wending your way to the bat cave near Ilig-Iligan Beach, on Boracay’s less-popu- looks besieged by moths. The flourlike beaches of fish market, or talipapa, at the center of the labyrin- lous eastern shore. Even Yeng has never ventured there, Boracay, a narrow oddment of land a brief boat ride thine D Mall. Here, for a modest sum, you can snag a which seems a good sign. He arranges for us to double from the mainland town of Caticlan, have drawn throngs fresh-caught fish or a still-gesticulating crab, which (or, more accurately, triple) helmetless on a stranger’s of foreigners since the ’80s. Its years of hard use aren’t you then take to one of the half-dozen or so “cooking wimpy-looking scooter. We rocket terrifyingly through difficult to detect. Not many acres of this 10-square mile service” restaurants surrounding the market. A capa- traffic, swinging away from the hotel strip, through a island remain unclaimed by hotels or houses and golf ble chef will flay and cook your catch to order. Eating simple village where the houses are sheet-metal shel- courses. The few remaining postage-stamp size wil- your weight at the talipapa plaza is a wise thing to do. ters. The paving peters out, and the road dead-ends at a dernesses are staked with “for sale” signs. Boracay’s One afternoon, I ask my guide, a young man named band of green ocean. main attraction is the White Beach, a 2.5-mile stretch Yeng, if he might help me track down some less tourist- Yeng and I climb through a fence of rusted barbed of bright sand along the island’s west coast. When I first friendly fare. He gives me an uncertain look. “Have you wire, down to a beach of brilliant white, thrillingly free of arrive, I have some difficulty finding it. The beach, as it eaten balut?” Balut, for reasons that soon become clear, humanity. At the north end, Yeng finds a pair of barefoot turns out, is hiding behind a long bulwark of commercial is a dish whose sale and consumption are forbidden on kids in a cabin enclosed by a driftwood fence. They’re establishments, including but not limited to: the Obama the White Beach. We head inland, and soon come across maybe eight and ten years old, but they know about the Grill (slogan: “You want good food? Yes we can!”); a a plywood shelter full of local guys watching television, bat cave and agree to take us there. They lead us up an shooters bar inviting patrons to accept its “still stand- one of whom has a crate of it. eroded bank, past a couple of “No Trespassing” signs, ing after 15 [shots]” challenge; the Facebook Resort; a Balut is an unborn duckling scalded in its shell, through a dense patch of woods to a forbidding hole in shopping mall; and an uncountable number of T-shirt apparently, before hatching. By way of instruction, the ground. It is dusk, and my plan is to hang around by vendors, massage touts and diving tour agencies. Yeng eats one first. He peels the shell, douses the occu- the mouth of the cave until the bats burst forth in a huge Visiting Boracay after Palawan admittedly subjects pant with vinegar and knocks it back, unchewed, like an photogenic plume, but the children go in. I follow, down the place to an unfair comparison. Still, I’m pleased that oyster shot. My turn. A tittering mob gathers. I peel my and down over guano-slicked rocks, the descent get- Palawan’s enviro-protected status has prevented people egg and see a beak, an eye and some matted black down. ting scarier and less hygienic by the instant. I try to tell from erecting shooter bars on the hawksbill turtles’ nest- Steady on, down the hatch. Okay, a couple of problems: the kids that I’ve gone deep enough, that really, I’m just ing beds. Shouldering through the White Beach’s Times First of all, the notion of swallowing something with waiting for the bats to fly out, you know, toperform, like Square–density throngs, it’s hard to greet happily those such an obvious face does not inspire my throat to open Mister Tom Jones. elements of tourist culture that have already dimmed for business; second, “duckling” seriously understates “No,” one of the boys says. the appeal of places like Phuket: pedicurists plucking at the creature’s weight class. Lodged halfway down my “What? They don’t fly out at sunset? All bats fly out your sleeves; Russian tourists dancing Gangnam-style at gullet, the thing feels like a condor. A boa constrictor at sunset.” a beachfront club; restaurants lit with so much neon they would have a hard time managing. “No,” he says cryptically. look like rides at the state fair; Wilford Brimley looka- About halfway past my tonsils, the bird makes a The unseen bats are shrieking, evidently enraged at crowd sUrfIng likes dining wordlessly with young Filipinas whom one break for it and flies toward the light and into my palm. the intrusion. They howl and wheel but stay hidden in Clockwise from left: can only optimistically suppose are mail-order brides. I give it an unceremonious burial behind the television the dark. The light at the cave’s mouth begins to fail. My Boracay’s teeming White Beach; two According to press reports, the island is beginning shack. For the better part of a week, I will feel its ghost guide is right. These creatures, who’ve presumably been boys selling mangoes; to suffer serious ill-effects of its own popularity. The impression on my uvula, but it’s hard to regret any here since before the arrival of the first tourist boat, a pizza delivery relentless foot traffic notwithstanding, hotels and sea- experience that gives a dozen rubbernecking strangers have no intention of putting on a show. I respectfully man near D Mall. Opposite page: A walls built too close to the beach are contributing to the gift of helpless, tearful laughter. withdraw, climbing up into the twilight, down to the beachside Boracay the quickening erosion of Boracay’s beaches. In recent My last full day on the island, I am still hung up on empty beach, where I wash my hands in the sea. • tchotchke stand.

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Part of a venture into modular housing by the venerable architect, 1923’s Millard House (which Wright himself referred to as “La Miniatura”— a label to describe his fondness for the house) was created from concrete blocks, each featuring a carved cross and square pattern, in a style he believed would lower the cost of home construction while retaining delicacy and beauty. The 4,230-square-foot, four-bedroom, four-bath home—currently on sale through Crosby Doe Associates for $4,495,000— offers a rare opportunity to lay claim to a unique piece of Wright history. The house, located in Pasadena, California, was originally built for book dealer Alice Millard for $17,000. Wright once said, “I would rather have built this little house than St. Peter’s in Rome.”

get it WRigHt From left: The Millard House’s living room has a ceiling of redwood. The doors, surrounded by Wright’s textile blocks look out onto the gardens; the Asian garden was inspired by Wright’s visits to Japan while he was working on the Imperial Hotel. The house also has a formal garden and a nature trail. Photographs by Scott Mayoral.

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0413_WSJ_CollectIt_02.indd 108 2/5/13 7:27 PM 0413_WSJ_CollectIt_02.indd 109 2/5/13 7:27 PM 02052013182756 02052013182756 HOW TO SUCCEED IN FASH ION WITHOUT TRYING TOO HARD

Before growing into a global fashion business with high-profile collaborations, its own culture magazine and an ever-evolving product line, Acne Studios began as a boutique creative consulting firm that played by a few counterintuitive rules—ones it still stands by today.

BY lYnn Yaeger photographY BY annaBel elston

hile he was working on Acne’s spring 2013 collection—the long, floaty para- chute-fabric skirts and T-shirts emblazoned with the word “music” that are in stores now—Jonny Johansson listened to a lot of Emmylou Harris. “It was a bit surreal. She talks about women, the difference between a woman who has experience and a woman who is young and free. She was painting pictures in a Wsense,” he says dreamily. “I could see this woman, in a white dress.” Johannson, the cofounder and designer of Acne Studios, is sharing this reverie in a lofty room in the company’s world headquarters, a spectacular art nouveau former bank building on an almost ridiculously picturesque cobblestone street in Stockholm’s Old Town. Vintage copies of Flair are enshrined under plexiglass near the entrance; a grand staircase still shows off its original gilded the brand PLaYed On wood paneling and stained glass. The uniformly youthful staff is clad in the kind of clothing that has Mikael Schiller, left, the become the company’s hallmark: edgy and slightly twisted, managing to walk a tightrope between executive chairman of Acne slightly avant-garde and eminently wearable—or, put another way, unthreateningly bohemian. Studios, and creative director Jonny Johansson, at the In an era when every high street from Altoona to Zanzibar is crammed with identical chain Acne store in Tokyo, which stores selling identical merchandise, Acne is perceived as different: Its legions of fans think of it as opened in December. a brand with integrity, a company that makes principled aesthetic decisions and never resorts to marketing tricks, even though they have hundreds of outlets.

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The ﬁrst issue of Acne Paper, from 2005, on the theme The City. Other Acne’s collaboration issues have celebrated with photographer Lord Acne’s spring 2013 Playfulness, Elegance and Snowdon resulted in a Acne’s ﬁrst furniture collection was inspired The Body. book of portraits featuring collection, presented at Paris by Emmylou Harris’s the classic blue work shirt fashion week in 2010, was cover of a Neil Young (which Snowdon calls based on a classic Swedish song “Wrecking Ball,” “anonymous and yet kind sofa designed by Carl and more generally of a uniform”), along with Malmsten, which was then by designer Jonny designs for eight new shirts. stretched and distorted. Johansson’s love of music.

Acne, which began In 2008 Acne teamed Last year, Acne opened as a digital art, film up with fashion a 4,000-square-foot and graphic design powerhouse Lanvin to flagship store in collective, made its first create an entirely denim New York City’s Soho foray into fashion in line—coats, shorts, district. It now operates 1997 with a pair of five- Acne’s Stockholm blouses, trousers, 30 stores globally. headquarters since As Acne has crossed pocket raw denim jeans. dresses and skirts—for over to the mainstream, 2007 occupies a former men and women. bank building in the Old celebrities have been Town section of the city. spotted wearing the label on the red carpet—as with the striped top and trousers worn by Rihanna. IHANNA); FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY) FIRSTVIEW IHANNA); IHANNA); FIRSTVIEW (RUNWAY) FIRSTVIEW IHANNA);

If the most difficult challenge in the fashion indus- be deliberately off-putting, a reflection of the ironic Soon everyone who wanted to appreciate how his or created with Candy magazine, a cult transsexual pub- and some friends asked me if I could write an invest- “looking for the right people and the wrong street.” try is to remain relevant and desirable in an ever more mood of the ’90s. “I didn’t like the name at all,” he her rear end looked ensconced in a pair of perfectly lication; and a furniture line that offered an elegant ment memorandum for Acne,” he recalls when asked A recent wintry afternoon finds Schiller, who crowded marketplace—and the whole project of pre- confesses. “I was embarrassed to call the bank. I don’t cut jeans embraced Acne. A big spread appeared in sofa that is quite possibly the narrowest couch in liv- to explain how a young guy whose previous work splits his time between Stockholm and New York, dicting what customers will want in any given season know if I like it now either.” Wallpaper, followed by others in French Vogue and ing room history (this skinny jeans version of a settee experience included starting a fireworks company at the company’s digs on a Manhattan street just is at best an ephemeral enterprise—Acne’s ability to Swedish Elle. “We were not prepared at all,” Johansson is still available for sylph-like customers by special and working as a high school psychology teacher rap- south of Canal—true to the Acne credo, it’s an area play the game while appearing to remain mysteriously S TIME WENT ON, Johansson and his says. They added other products to the line very quickly, order). None of these projects are announced through idly rose to a major position. “I had heard that when where Soho dips from major to minor, and there are above the fray is a deeply impressive accomplish- cohorts started flirting with the notion determined not to be identified with a single item. The traditional advertising methods—the company delib- you write an investment memorandum you had to do spectacular 360-degree views wrapping around the ment. The company was founded in 1996 by four guys of launching some kind of fashion prod- company had a hunch that the boundaries separating erately hides its light under a barrel, preferring to discounted cash flow. I was not good with Excel—I offices. Looking north, you can almost see Acne’s who threw 10,000 euros into a pot and launched a uct—but not just anything. “We knew we the various sectors of the fashion market were rapidly promote the brand through Acne Paper, along with its worked day and night on this for 10 days. I gave it to New York flagship a few blocks away; with a high- multidisciplinary digital film–design–creative con- had to do something fantastic,” he recol- dissolving, that the same consumer who was able to shifting roster of collaborators. Acne, and a little while after that they said, ‘You seem intensity telescope, you might even be able to pick sulting collective in Stockholm, an enterprise that, by Alects. They were intent on creating something special, afford expensive garments was not averse to amus- Mikael Schiller, the company’s executive chair- to be good with business—would you like to become out customers lugging dusty pink shopping bags, a combination of frankly nutty decisions and shrewd something that lived up, or down, to their name. They ing himself/herself with fun high-street labels. “We man, says he thinks Acne has succeeded because the the managing director?’ ” perhaps containing ankle-length frocks and witty business practices, has become a highly profitable were sure they didn’t want to become just another wanted to be a creative entity, an eclectic universe,” company adheres to its own informal catalogue of With the crazy confidence that youth bestows, T-shirts, but more than likely, they’re filled with business—$112 million in revenue last year alone— streetwear brand. After all, if their agency was an Johansson remembers. “We knew as customers that if counterintuitive rules. Rule number one, he confides Schiller signed on. He quickly jettisoned the lessons he’d those jeans which, a decade on, remain responsible encompassing men’s and women’s ready to wear, unclassifiable multitasking synthesis of digital art, we liked something, we didn’t care if it was streetwear, with a laugh, is their desire to open stores in cities he learned in school: how to analyze markets and figure out for the firm’s ascent. footwear, accessories and premium denim. film and graphic design, couldn’t their fashion line be vintage or couture.” and Johansson find personally appealing, not places which consumers should be targeted. “Acne started the Asked what the business-school guy who came to Johansson, who turns 44 this month, originally just as ambitious? Unfortunately, this was harder than When the big department stores came courting, at where the company would necessarily make a killing. opposite way—let’s make a fantastic product, whether work at Acne in 2001 would make of the company’s came to Stockholm from a small town in Sweden to it sounded. In a country like Sweden, with virtually first the Acne guys said no, reluctant to relinquish any While everyone else may be rushing to China, Acne it’s a gown or a magazine. If we do this, it will be easy to last decade, Schiller laughs at the astonishing way be a rock musician. “I sacrificed my band for this!” he no domestic garment industry or tradition of fabric control and fearing that retailers wouldn’t properly was seduced by the charms of Japan, launching its sell, and if they like it, they will come back.” things have turned out. “If I would have known that says, smiling. He has no formal training as a designer, manufacturing and where the largest fashion retailer, merchandise their products. (This initial hesitancy first Asian flagship in Tokyo in December 2012. When in 10 years we would have 100 times the turnover, a and his interests range far beyond the usual fashion H&M, sources and manufactures everything outside has dissolved—Acne is sold in fancy big boxes world- the existing Tokyo building was deemed too pro- IS FIRST DAY AT his new job was Lanvin collaboration and stores in so many cities…,” talk—the conversation drifts easily from jazz artist the country, how do you begin? wide, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, saic, too generic, Johansson and architect Andreas September 1, 2001. Ten days later, the he says, shaking his head at the wonder of it all. “But Chet Baker to the turn–of–the–20th century Swedish It turns out, with the most obvious of icons: a pair Isetan, Harrods and Le Bon Marché.) Even now, with Fornell redesigned the interior to resemble a modern world changed forever. “At the time, the you know, you change with what happens, your per- polymath August Strindberg. Struggling to describe of five-pocket raw denim jeans with red stitching—an 650 outlets in 66 countries around the world, catwalk Swedish house. company was on shaky financial ground,” spective changes and fashion, by its nature, is always in words how he works, he uses his first love as a meta- unwitting homage, perhaps, to the American idols that shows during London Fashion Week and a showroom Schiller himself is a living example of rule number he recollects. “People were calling night changing. We have been perceived as creative and phor: “When you get into the flow, music connects Johansson idolized as a teenager, Marilyn Monroe and in Paris (because buyers and press, no matter how two: the company’s devotion to seek out, cultivate Hand day asking, ‘Where is my money?’ My first task quirky, but we want to become a long-term institution. with the unconscious. Fashion does this too, but it’s James Dean. Johansson designed these dungarees in intrepid, aren’t likely to schlep to Sweden), Acne insists and promote employees who embody the ethos of was impossible—I was trying to raise a million euros. I We want to have even better services, better products, more playful, like perfume. And it’s very fast.” 1997 on a lark, to give to his friends. “We did 100 pairs. that it is far more than a clothing company. There is the brand. “People who work at Acne become so called everybody we owed money to, and told them we a better online presence.” In its early days, Acne Studios strove for a Warhol I used up all the money. I didn’t even dare to tell the the biannual magazine, Acne Paper (hardly a conven- passionate—it’s almost organic. They feel it, and could pay them 30 percent or we could declare bank- Then he turns thoughtful, and almost by accident Factory atmosphere. “We loved how they looked, other fellows. The strategy was to get somebody cool to tional fashion publication, it has offered such features other people know they feel it,” he says. “My former ruptcy. Everybody agreed.” In the end, Schiller and hits upon what makes Acne so special and so success- the way they did things—whether you were old or wear it in front of my colleagues.” as an interview with the M.I.T. linguist Noam Chomsky assistant, Mattias Magnusson, is now the CEO.” If Johansson scraped the money together to buy out their ful: “We had this idea: not to explain everything to young didn’t matter,” Johansson says. The busi- It worked. Fashion insiders, graphic designers, film- and rarely accepts advertising); an ongoing series of Johansson is the pensive bohemian, Schiller is, at original partners and run Acne Studios themselves, everybody.” It may have been the best notion Schiller ness’s borderline-repulsive name—an acronym for makers, hipster kids—in short, all the people Johannson collaborations, including a denim line with Lanvin least by Acne standards, relatively practical and a decision that allows them to pursue their manage- and Johansson ever had—a bit of mystery could well be

Ambition to Create Novel Expression—was meant to hung out with and admired—began wearing the pants. in 2008; a book with Lord Snowdon; three blouses PREVIOUSPREVIOUS PAGE: PAGE: COURTESYCOURTESY ACNEACNE STUDIOSSTUDIOS (ALL).(ALL). THISTHIS PAGE: PAGE: COURTESYCOURTESY ACNEACNE STUDIOSSTUDIOS (LANVIN,(LANVIN, SOFAS, SOFAS, STORE);STORE); BRIANBRIAN RASIC/REX/REXRASIC/REX/REX USA USA (R(R down to earth. “I was 24, ﬁnishing business school, ment strategy, which Schiller sums up irreverently as Acne’s best revenge.

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COVER Suspendu, price upon request, Brioni hat, $1,425, brioni .com; 212-223-1824; vintage coat and page 80 Rag & Bone sweatshirt, $350, rag- hermes .com for store locations; Santa Maria Novella Spanish belt, Early Halloween NYC, 212- Dolce & Gabbana tank, $175, bone .com; Nike Jordan Dominate Audemars Piguet Millenary Leather cologne, $125 for 3.3 oz, 691-2933; vintage boots, What dolcegabbana.it headband, $16, nike .com 4101, price upon request, santamarianovella .com; Tom Goes Around Comes Around, audemarspiguet .com; Badollet Ford belt, price upon request, whatgoesaroundnyc .com page 81 TABLE OF CONTENTS Ivresse, price upon request, 212-359-0300; Breguet watch, Yohji Yamamoto coat, $2,910, page 19 badollet .com; Harry Winston $26,600, breguet .com; Longchamp page 76 yohjiyamamoto.co.jp; John Nike Jordan Melo Redman Face Opus X, price upon request, umbrella, $230, longchamp .com; Trussardi jacket, $1,170, trussardi Varvatos pant, $398, johnvarvatos T-shirt, $36, footlocker .com, Nike harrywinston .comt Hermès briefcase, $8,550, hermes .com; John Varvatos henleys, $298 .com; Frye boots, $298, Jordan M9 shoe, $140, nike .com, Nike .com; Ralph Lauren sunglasses, each, johnvarvatos .com; Hermès thefryecompany .com Jordan sweatpants, $60, nike .com MARKET REPORT $140, ralphlauren .com; Hermès pant, $580, hermes .com; Stephen page 53 notebook, $245, hermes .com; Webster chain (worn throughout), MELO TIME page 24 Dior Patchouli Imperial cologne, Montblanc pen, $445, montblanc $525, 310-246-9500, vintage boots, page 82-83 Outward Bound: John Varvatos $155 for 4.25 oz., dior .com; Tod’s .com; Paul Stuart shoes, $678, What Goes Around Comes Around, Nike Jordan Melo Redman Face henley, $298, johnvarvatos .com, shoe, $665, tods .com; Prada travel paulstuart .com; Longchamp whatgoesaroundnyc .com T-shirt, $36, footlocker .com Calvin Klein Collection pant, $495, case, $390, prada .com; Cartier wallet, $195, longchamp .com; 212-292-9000, Stephen Webster watch, $6,250, cartier .com; Jil Tiffany Knot cuff links, $2,500, page 77 page 84 chain, $525, 310-246-9500. The Sander wallet, $180, 212-925-2345; tiffany .com Gucci sweater, $590, gucci .com Salvatore Ferragamo blazer, Classical View: Giorgio Armani suit, Dior Homme card holder, $220, $2,150, 866-337-7242; BOSS $2,595, shirt, $545, and tie, $125, diorhomme .com; Prada sunglasses, WELL OPENER page 78 henley, $45, 800-HUGOBOSS; 212-988-9191 price upon request, prada .com; page 73 Bottega Veneta coat, $1,300, Giorgio Armani pant, $725, 212- Lanvin belt, $480, barneys .com Dries Van Noten coat, $1,120, sweater, $960, and pant, $680, 988-9191 WHAT’S NEWS barneys .com; Jean Shop jacket, bottegaveneta .com; Belstaff page 40 page 56 $990, worldjeanshop .com; Lanvin sweater (over shoulders), $750, page 85 patch trick Bell & Ross watch, $4,500, bellross T-shirt, $875, 646-439-0380; 212-897-1880; vintage boots, What Ralph Lauren Black Label Denim Louis Vuitton jacket, $6,100, shorts, .com; Lotuff iPad case, $215, BOSS pant, $145, hugoboss .com, Goes Around Comes Around, leather jacket, $2,995, and T-shirt, $4,620, scarf, $350 louisvuitton .com barneys .com; Ermenegildo Zegna vintage belt, Early Halloween whatgoesaroundnyc .com $85, saks .com; Panerai watch, sunglasses, $350, zegna .com; Gap NYC, 212-691-2933; vintage boots, $10,400, panerai .com page 42 belt, $34.95, gap .com; Duluth What Goes Around Comes Around, page 79 bling makes the man backpack, $175, duluthpack .com; whatgoesaroundnyc .com Burberry Prorsum parka, $3,395, page 86 Kenzo Bijoux by Delfina Delettrez Filson duffel, $495, filson .com; Rag burberry .com; Polo Ralph Lauren Nike Jordan Melo Redman Face cuff and tiebar, prices upon request, & Bone hat, $125, rag-bone .com OUTWARD BOUND shirt, $89.50, ralphlauren .com; T-shirt, $36, footlocker .com openingceremony.us Alden for Unionmade boots, $468, page 74 Diesel henley, $98, 877-433-4373; unionmadegoods .com Steven Alan sweater, $248, Gucci pant, $480, gucci .com; THE CLASSICAL VIEW HIDDEN HANDS stevenalan .com; Dolce & Gabbana Belstaff sweater (around waist), page 96 page 50 page 58 henley, $275, dolcegabbana. $750, 212-897-1880; Frye boots, Burberry Prorsum jacket, $1,595, Hermès Arceau Le Temps Coach suitcase, $698, coach .com; it; Tommy Hilfiger pant, $228, $298, thefryecompany .com trousers, $895, and sweater, $895, burberry .com

page 97 THE LIFE AQUATIC Louis Vuitton suit, $3,100, shirt, Shipshape selections $575, scarf, $350, louisvuitton that make a land- .com; Burberry Prorsum shoes, loving wardrobe $525, burberry .com more buoyant. Clockwise from top page 98 left: BOSS belt, Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière Prada Luna Rossa suit, $2,650, and boots, $975, Eau De Toilette 212-206-0872; Balenciaga by spray, Paul & Shark Nicolas Ghesquière shirt, $355, duffel, Stone Island balenciaga .com parka, Louis Vuitton sneakers, Burberry page 99 Prorsum sunglasses, Ermenegildo Zegna suit, $2,895, FOSSIL watches. shirt, $345, tie, $195, pocket Details, this page. square, $135, zegna .com

page 100 Tom Ford jacket, $3,520, 212-359- 0300; Giorgio Armani sweater, $895, 212-988-9191; Brunello STOCKS Cucinelli pocket square, $135, 970- 544-0600

page 101 Giorgio Armani suit, $2,595, shirt, $545, tie, $125, 212-988-9191; Church’s shoes, $560, church- footwear .com TO SOCKS SOURCES page 114 Award-Winning Business News to iPhone-Enabled Socks. BOSS belt, $135, hugoboss .com; Prada Luna Rossa Eau De Toilette Find Out Why The Wall Street Journal is the #1 Selling spray, $62 for 1.7 oz., macys .com, Paul & Shark duffel, $785, 212-452- 9868, Stone Island parka, $715, Newspaper in America. stoneisland .com, Louis Vuitton sneakers, $675, louisvuitton .com, Burberry Prorsum sunglasses, $220 each, burberry .com, FOSSIL watches, $95 each, fossil .com PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HUGHES. STYLING BY JUSTIN ARROYO Celebrate Your Weekend Visit: wsj.com/wsjweekend 114 wsj. magazine

still life alexander wang Balenciaga’s newly appointed creative director shares a few of his favorite things, from surprise birthday gifts to inspirational party favors. EPA-estimated ratings of 47 city MPG for C-MAX Hybrid and 108 city MPGe for C-MAX Energi.* photography by ditte isager Say hi to the 5-passenger C-MAX HYBRID + C-MAX ENERGI plug-in HYBRID.

After I sAw thIs blAck studded box at interior ashtray was a gift from Vanessa Traina and Maxwell first thing to sell out, so we did it again for the sec- ford.com designer Ryan Korban’s home and mentioned how Snow’s wedding in San Francisco last year. When ond collection; I love the irony of a python-embossed much I loved it, he ordered one for me as a surprise I won my first CFDA award in 2008, I received a bike lock. The flask, also from our Objects collec- for my birthday five years ago. Beside it is the King handwritten note from Ralph Lauren and was so star- tion, was inspired by one I received from a friend as Burger visor from my Halloween costume four years struck that I’ve held on to it ever since. My mother a party favor. While in Hawaii for my birthday last ago when I went as the character Bon Qui Qui from gave me a picture of herself when she was 20 years year, some friends went on a shopping binge for the MADtv. I searched high and low and finally resorted old; I keep it framed in my bedroom. For our first ugliest gifts they could find. They came back with to sending a visor out for custom embroidery. The Objects collection we made a bike lock, and it was the this coconut purse! • *EPA-estimatedratingof47city/47hwy/47combinedmpg,C-MAXHybrid;108city/92hwy/100combinedMPGe,C-MAXEnergi. Actualmileagewillvary.MPGeistheEPAequivalentmeasureofgasolinefuelefficiencyforelectricmodeoperation.

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Automatic chronograph LV 277 manufactured in Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking workshops in Switzerland Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores and on louisvuitton.com.