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Home , Daria Werbowy, Dean and Dan Caten, Ports International, Renzo Rosso

WWDSECTION II MILESTONES

Dsquared2 at 20 Marking two decades of irreverent Italian through a Canadian lens.

I THE DAN AND DEAN SECRET I FASHION AND FROLICS THROUGH THE YEARS I PLUGGING THE GREAT WHITE NORTH I THE BUSINESS, THE LICENSING AND MORE

Dean and Dan Caten at their spring 2012 Dsquared2 show fi nale. 2 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Two Brothers, One Brand, 20 Years The Catens and Dsquared2 through the years. By Eleonora Molesti

1991 2007 I Launch of Potion for men I Dan and Dean Caten arrive in I The first Dsquared2 men’s fragrance. Italy from , Canada. fragrance, He Wood, launches. I Women’s footwear makes 2012 1995 its debut. I Dsquared2 opens stores I The I The first Dsquared2 flagship in Tokyo; Nanjing, China, Catens opens in . and , Cyprus. present I Launch of Potion for their first women fragrance. men’s wear I The brand licenses silk collection house ISA to produce under the and distribute underwear Dsquared2 and swimwear for men label. and women. Potion I The company renews 1996 launched its eyewear license with I Debut in 2011. Marcolin through 2017. of the first Men’s wear men’s 2013 made its debut The Milan fashion show I Dsquared2 signs a five-year in 1996. fl agship. The store opened in 2014. in Milan, the licensing deal with Brave Kid “Homesick for children’s wear and Andrea Canada” collection, for fall 1996. Montelpare for kids’ footwear. International Canadian Designer 2008 of the Year award and Outstanding 2000 I The company licenses Marcolin Achievement award at the first I The brothers design the for eyewear. Brave Kid produces the Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards. looks for ’s video I The first women’s brand’s children’s wear. I Opening of Dsquared2 boutiques “Don’t Tell Me” and 2001 fragrance, She Wood, in Barvikha, near Moscow; “Drowned World” tour. launches. Chongqing, China; the Greek island I They sign a license and I Opening of Mykonos; Porto Cervo on the island distribution agreement Dsquared2 boutiques of Sardinia; Salonicco, Greece; with Staff International, in Capri, Italy; Kiev, , Azerbaijan; Los Angeles, and which is controlled by Ukraine; ; and New York’s SoHo. Renzo Rosso’s OTB Srl. Hong Kong. I Launch of the men’s fragrance Wild.

2002 2015 I Dsquared2 presents I The brand marks its 20th its first women’s capsule anniversary. collection in Milan. Eyewear 2003 was licensed I Debut of the first Madonna in to Marcolin complete women’s ready- Dsquared2. in 2008. to-wear collection, “Star 2009 D2 Fast Facts 24/07,” with a show in Milan. I Dsquared2 boutiques open in 150: Outfi ts designed for Madonna I The Catens design costumes for Cannes, France; ; Singapore; and her dancers for the 2001 ’s world tour. and Hong Kong (Kowloon). “Drowned World” tour and for the I They receive the award I The Catens are awarded the music video “Don’t Tell Me.” La Kore for best emerging designers. Canada Honour and unveil their star on Canada’s Walk of Fame in 17,000: Number of timber chocks 2004 , which celebrates Canadian used to create the Milan fl agship. The Catens design an exclusive excellence in music, sport, film, TV, commemorative sneaker for the science, innovation, and literary, 10: Looks created for the opening Olympic Games in . visual and performing arts. and closing ceremonies of the 2010 I Dsquared2 designs the Olympic Winter Games in Vancouver. 2006 Football Club’s official I The brothers are awarded the 20th off-field uniforms. 984 feet: The distance each of annual juried Spanish fashion award the Caten brothers ran during the Aguja de Oro (“Golden Needle”). 2010 Olympic torch relay. I Juventus Football Club of Turin I The brothers design costumes for the selects Dsquared2 to design its Opening and Closing Ceremonies of the 100: Number of seats at the Ceresio official off-field uniforms. Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympic Games. 7 restaurant. I Dsquared2 inks a licensing deal I They design costumes for rock band with ICR-ITF Group for fragrances. Tokio Hotel’s “Welcome to Humanoid 240: Types of wine available at City” tour. Ceresio 7. I Dsquared2 shops open in Monte 5: Number of honors and awards Carlo, , and received for their work in Canada. Shanghai. Ceresio 7 rooftop I The company bar in Milan. 1,000: Guests at the Wild party renews its licensing to celebrate the opening of agreement with Dsquared2’s Mykonos boutique in Staff International I Boutiques in Abu Dhabi; August. for 17 years. Hangzhou and Shanghai in China; I Dsquared2 moves and St. Moritz, Switzerland. 140: Relatives invited to the Catens’ into the Via Ceresio I The Ceresio 7 bar and restaurant, Christmas party at Casa Loma. building in Milan. located in the penthouse of the Dsquared2 building, opens. 26 years: The duration of the license The 2011 with Staff International. shop opened I Shops open in 2014 — E.M. Beijing and Paris. I The Catens are honored with the

4 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Hip to Be Dsquared2

These brothers love to tell a story, and they’re anything but grim. By Alessandra Turra

THE 20TH ANNIVERSARY OF their Dsquared2 fashion brand isn’t the only thing are celebrating: the designers turned 50 last December. While some might be nervous about hitting the half-century

mark, for the Canadian twins, it was just another reason to throw a couple of stellar parties — a private dinner with music by star DJ David Morales at the Chalet Etoile, in Cervinia, a popular ski resort in the Italian Alps, and an extrav-

aganza at Toronto’s Casa Loma, an early 20th-century Gothic Revival mansion. This is the sort of thing that de- fi nes the Caten twins — the kind of glossy, happy, somewhat wild lifestyle they both live and sell to the world through their glamorous’’ fashion col- lections. There is nothing accidental about it: This is the path the identical twins, raised in the Willowdale suburb of Toronto, intentionally picked for themselves when they moved to Italy in 1991 to seek their fortune on the European fashion scene. Dean and Dan are the youngest of nine children born to an English moth- er and an Italian father, whose deci- sion to shorten the family name from Catenacci to Caten mirrored that of scores of immigrants before him. “He knows me, I know him. We He knows me, I know him. We understand each other. — DAN CATEN, ABOUT HIS BROTHER DEAN

understand each other,” said Dan, explaining the natural affinity he shares with his brother. The twins don’t just work together, sharing the same desk in their hyper-chic offi ce in the Dsquared2 building on Milan’s Via Ceresio; they also live together in , hang out together, go on vaca- tion together: they are very much the idiomatic two peas in a pod. They have no specifi’’ c roles, either, when it comes to designing a collec- tion, approving a business plan or de- vising a new campaign. “We both feel if something works or not,” Dean said. The twins left Willowdale at 19 to attend Parsons The New School for Design in New York, but dropped out after only a semester and went back to Canada, where they joined fashion label as junior de- signers. They spent six years there, eventually becoming head designers. At that point, they decided to make the big jump, and, returning to their Italian roots, they crossed the ocean and settled in Milan, where they began developing their own fashion label in Dean and Dan Caten in their Milan offi ce.

{Continued on page 6} PANSINI PAOLA PHOTO BY

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WWD MILESTONES

The “Charlie’s Angels” spring 2009 show.

some ferocious criticism. In February 2012, ICR-ITF for fragrances and Isa for un- for instance, the designers sent out models derwear and swimwear. Hip to Be Dsquared2’’ in chic and preppy Sixties-inspired outfi ts Concurrent with Milan men’s fashion — with cigarettes. Model and actor Rick week, which Dsquared2 will open with {Continued from page 4} The tone of Dsquared2’s future shows Genest — aka Zombie Boy, famous for the a special anniversary-themed show a garage on Via Burlamacchi, in the was set. More than a runway, more than tattoos completely covering his body — was tonight at the Hangar Bicocca exhibi- city’s Porta Romana district. an occasion to present new collections, also smoking in the front row. tion space, the label will also christen “When it was too cold there, we the Caten brothers’ shows are always “We did apologize,” said Dan. “That a store in the city’s Porta Nuova district. used to move into the kitchen of our large-scale events or quasi-theme par- was too much.” “This is going to be a concept store apartment,” Dan said. ties, where the inspiration running At any rate, taking a walk on the where we can give visibility to a cer- Strongly believing in the innovative through the lineup is evident to all from wild side is part of Dsquared2’s phi- tain kind of product,” Dan said. “It’s power of their project, in 1995 they pre- the moment one sets foot in the venue. losophy, rooted, say the designers, in a a different concept for us. We like to sented their fi rst men’s collection, and “We always want to make our mes- very specifi c set of values: “Sexy, cool, work on new things. It’s exciting, it’s the following season they were already sage complete. We always try to make relaxed, different, accidentally chic different — it’s a turning point.” showing the “Homesick Canada” collec- our show look like a story,” said Dan, and individual,” said Dean, describing tion on the Milanese men’s catwalks. noting that once they choose a theme, the label’s aesthetic. In contrast to Milan’s core sartorial he and his brother build on it the way “And contrasting,” Dan added. At work in the studio. classicism, Dsquared2 collections of- “Having a contrast with the world is re- fered a new, luxurious take on denim ally Dsquared2.” and casualwear, with a fresh, irrever- This strong sense of individuality is ent vibe that stemmed from the label’s Our father never let one of the key elements that made the two cheerful, eccentric designers. brand especially successful among mu- “Our father never let us wear jeans. us wear jeans. He sicians. Over the years, the twins have He used to say, ‘Poor people wear dressed quite a cadre of international jeans, and you are not poor,’ ” Dean artists, including Madonna, Christina said. “Denim, for us, is an element that used to say, ‘Poor Aguilera, Michael Bublé, the Tokio Hotel blends things together.” band and , who walked the Just when their popularity was people wear jeans, brand’s spring 2008 show, among others. starting to grow, Dean and Dan met a While the Caten twins’ fun and un- man who was to have a huge impact and you are not poor.’ conventional take on glamour is still on the future of their business: Renzo a hallmark of the brand’s collections, Rosso. In 2002, the Caten twins inked a — DEAN CATEN they have also evolved, losing the evi- licensing agreement with Rosso’s Staff dent street connotations of their early International, which still manufactures years and moving toward a sophisti- the brand’s collections. The entrepre- a director builds on a movie concept, cated, luxurious style. For example, neur gave the designers the fi nancial trying to fi nd the most appropriate lo- Dsquared2 is making a big push in and productive support to launch the cation, soundtrack and props. men’s tailoring, offering different suit Dsquared2 women’s line in 2003. The designers have re-created a and tuxedo fi ts, festively named after The Catens made their women’s wide range of cinematic sets over the jet-set destinations such as Miami, debut during the Milan women’s fash- seasons. For example, in September Capri, London, Paris and more. ion week with the “Star 24/7” fall col- 2011, they celebrated the influence The fashion house is also extend- lection, presented with a spectacular of music festivals — particularly ing its brand identity through a rapidly show in which models, wearing hoods, Glastonbury — on the fashion indus- growing collection of bags and shoes, denim pants and minidresses (all in- try, setting up a festival tent with a a children’s wear line produced by fused with a va-va-voom sexy attitude), stage and a camper van, while models Rosso’s Brave Kid and a range of li- emerged from a big pink airplane be- walked on a catwalk caked’’ with mud. censes managed by high-end manufac- fore striding down the catwalk. This irreverent approach also earned turers, including Marcolin for eyewear,

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WWD MILESTONES

Backstage, fall 2014. Fall 2008

It’s a Romp Fashion frolics through the years.

Spring Fall 2006 Fall 2000 2003

Spring 2013 Spring 2001 PHOTO BY R. TECCHIO R. PHOTO BY

Backstage, fall 2014.

Fall 2001 Fall 1997

10 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

Fall 2008 PHOTO BY R. TECCHIO R. PHOTO BY

Spring 2014 Fall 2000

Fall 2004 Spring 2015

Spring 2000

Fall 1999

Spring 2015

Fall 2014 Spring 2014 Congratulates on its 20 thAnniversary 12 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

The company is poised to expand its retail penetration and grow revenues Time for Takeoff around the world. By Luisa Zargani THERE’S NO LOOKING back for the units. In the U.S., however, the priority is Caten twins. …St. Moritz… to open directly operated stores. Dsquared2 marks 20 years in busi- The fi rst American venue opened in ness in 2015, but for founders, owners Beverly Hills on North Rodeo Drive in and creative directors Dean and Dan September. A New York store, which Caten, it’s “eyes forward” as they view opened in December at the corner of this year as a pivotal turning point for Spring Street and Broadway in SoHo, the brand. is the largest, at 6,467 square feet. A “Practice makes perfect. We’ve built 2,000-square-foot door at Miami’s Bal the foundations, everything is in place Harbor Shops is due to be unveiled and now we’re starting to grow. We know early this year as well. where we want to be,” said Dean Caten, A store will also open in London by during a joint interview with his twin at the end of February. their Ceresio 7 restaurant in Milan. Wholesale still represents 80 per- “It’s her time to go and run,” cent of business, but the designers are added Dan, speaking of a fi gurative working on growing the retail network Dsquared2 customer. to convey the brand’s “full message,” The brand grew from one simple which they believe will also help de- premise — that men’s fashion week velop their wholesale revenues. Men’s was “a bore.” So they set out to fi ll the wear accounts for 55 percent of sales, category with clothes that were any- and women’s wear makes up the rest. thing but boring — and fi ll it they did, Maccarrone said online is the brand’s as they grew their company to reach best store and credited the Catens for revenues in 2014 of 205 million euros, Shops in Tokyo… …Mykonos… their own involvement in the channel. or about $242 million at current ex- The Dsquared2 online store is oper- change, up 10 percent compared with ated by Yoox Group and the partnership the previous year. The brand now in- agreement was renewed in May for an- cludes comprehensive men’s, wom- other fi ve years. The collaboration with en’s and children’s lines, completed the Caten brothers started in 2009, sell- by handbags and footwear collections ing on Yoox’s Thecorner.com and moving made in-house, and a successful licens- onto the brand’s own e-commerce site. ing business, including eyewear, inner- Upon the renewal, Yoox founder and wear and fragrance agreements, plus a ceo Federico Marchetti said Dsquared2 network of 33 stores and 600 points of is one of the group’s “top stores in terms sale around the world. of revenues, and the brand has one of To put things in perspective, sales the highest online penetrations on its in 2001 stood at 3 million euros, or $3.7 total sales. It’s a benchmark for us.” million, noted chief executive offi cer Asked to explain why the Dsquared2 Gianfranco Maccarrone. The company is site is so successful online, Marchetti forging full steam ahead as the executive said, “Their product and target custom- expects a double-digit growth in 2015. er are in line [fi tting the Internet] but While the designers convey a free- this would not be enough. They have a spirited image and a playful attitude, clear managerial online strategy that they “have a very important vision of is well communicated within the com- the numbers,” said Maccarrone. “They pany, a well-executed management of are easy to work with, they like their the store and the designers are actively …Milan… business and they know their business.” ...and Los Angeles. engaged. They have fun with it, and the To be sure, the affable brothers bris- store refl ects their brand.” tled at the suggestion that design was traordinary lucidity. They’re very much mentation, they “remain faithful to He said there is an ambitious fi ve- their main focus. “There are those days in contact with their customers, and their style and DNA. Hats off to them year plan, with hopes of a triple-digit we have to talk numbers — they are not know how those tastes and expectations for their extraordinary consistency.” growth of this store. our favorite days, but we do,” said Dean. evolve — and they follow that evolution.” The executive noted that, while the Maccarrone said that, off line, “We are not money-driven. If we Minelli said Staff International, market is operating a “ferocious selec- Europe is the biggest market, account- don’t like it, we don’t do it,” added Dan owned by Renzo Rosso’s OTB Srl, has tion,” Dsquared2 wholesale clients are ing for 60 percent of sales, while the of their decision-making. grown together with Dsquared2 and giving the brand “more space — we U.S. is the company’s main online Ubaldo Minelli, ceo of Staff that the “profi table collaboration” is haven’t expanded our distribution, but driver, representing 24 percent of International, which has produced one of the longest in the industry, as it is much more penetrated.” revenues. Offl ine, the U.S. accounts and distributed the brand since 2001, the license was renewed in 2010 until Minelli highlighted how the companies for 5 percent of sales. After opening noted that the designers “have a pre- 2027. Underscoring their “extraordi- have worked on distribution “step-by-step stores in Dubai in 2009 and Abu Dhabi cise knowledge of their consumer target. nary talent,” Minelli said that, while and by priority.” Dsquared2 is broaden- in 2013, there are plans for units in They have very clear ideas and an ex- driven by a strong desire for experi- ing its retail network, also via franchised Kuwait and Qatar in 2015.

are real, contemporary clothes that people wear when they ‘Papi’ Renzo Refl ects leave their houses, for day and night, for many hours and in “MAMMA MIA, how interesting!” To be sure, Rosso’s rela- the cool places. I adore them.” In his signature informal tionship with the designers Asked if he’d consider taking and easygoing manner, this is runs deeper than most. “We a stake in Dsquared2, Rosso, what Renzo Rosso exclaimed don’t feel like their licensees, who has built a fashion pole when he fi rst saw Dean and but rather as part of a family. under OTB that comprises, Dan Caten’s designs. We have an excellent rapport in addition to , brands “I was in Antwerp and I professionally, but we are also ranging from to Martin was struck by their creativity, friends, which is a rarity,” ex- Margiela, said that, “obviously, started watching them and fol- plained the entrepreneur. Case to become their partner would be a dream for me. But we do lowed their work. By coinci- in point: the designers call Dan and Dean Caten fl ank Renzo Rosso. dence, they were looking for Rosso “papi,” the affectionate have a long contract. We respect someone to produce their col- Italian term for “daddy.” In each other and we know each lections,” he recalled. turn, he calls the twins “fi glio- turity over the years and their yourself. You are your own ther- other very well, it’s two-way. These initial steps led to a letti belli” (“my cute boys”). “incredible professionalism” as mometer — no need for market “We are doing well together fruitful and lengthy collabora- They take vacations to- the company expands around research,” he contended. and we are building our busi- tion. First inked in 2001, the li- gether and Rosso said recur- the world, also leveraging a Rosso touted the design- nesses together,” said Rosso, cense between Dsquared2 and ring holiday stints include “a deep knowledge of their cus- ers’ “modern” looks, which noting that the Dsquared2 Rosso’s manufacturing arm weekend in Ibiza and an eve- tomers. “They themselves are he believes epitomize “luxury business totals more “than 150 Staff International, under the ning in Mykonos.” their own customers, the same casual wear — well-made, not million euros [$186 million] for entrepreneur’s OTB umbrella, While the Catens retain their as I was with Diesel — Diesel garish, in good taste — which Staff International. We see ex- was renewed in 2010 for anoth- image of “joyful kids,” Rosso was me. There is nothing bet- makes you feel different and ceptional sell out.” er 17 years. underscored their growing ma- ter than when the product is for good, but not ridiculous. These — L.Z.

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WWD MILESTONES

Fall 2011’s Pioneer Cold Mountain show. Hockey Horror theme for fall 2010.

Our Home and Native Land

participating in the Olympic Torch SHOW THEMES The Catens are Canadians Relay on Feb. 9, the duo decked out Dsquared2 shows are never just through and through. such northern notables as Michael about the clothes; each season, the By Cynthia Martens Bublé, Bryan Adams and Nelly Furtado. designers devise a new theme to en- Last February at the Fairmont tertain their guests, and Canada has Royal York hotel in Toronto, Dean been at the heart of the message on CANADA IS MORE than a land of ice and Dan Caten received the Canadian more than one occasion. and snow, red maple leaves and unfail- Arts and Fashion Award’s prizes for For their fall 2004 men’s and wom- ingly polite people — it’s also Dan and “International Canadian Designer en’s lineups, the designers worked the Dean Caten’s home turf, and a continu- of the Year” and “Outstanding “Great White North” theme, also used ous source of inspiration for the de- Achievement.” Canadian in that season’s advertising. Models — signers, who grew up in the Willowdale Coco Rocha, who won “Model of the some carrying dogs — walked down neighborhood of Toronto. Year,” collected her prize in a long, the catwalk in furry ranger hats and “I defi nitely think Canada’s a big white Dsquared2 dress in double wool red-and-black checked coats, with a infl uence for us,” mused Dan. “It’s our with asymmetrical shoulders. backdrop of pine trees and snow. little bit of individuality inside [the] More recently, the designers un- fashion industry, so we kind of milk it, PACKAGING veiled a “Hockey Horror” show for and we work it, and it’s ours…We like When the Caten brothers teamed up men’s fall 2010, with models in ath- to wave our fl ag whenever possible.” with licensing partner ICR-ITF on letic jersey-like shirts decorated with Dean agreed, noting that he and their first fragrance, one element skulls and maple leaves, and “Pioneer his brother are “very proud” of hav- was a given: wood. The aptly named Cold Mountain” shows for both the ing helped place Canada on the high- Michael Bublé in Dsquared2. men’s He Wood eau de toilette, which men’s and women’s fall 2011 collec- fashion map. launched in 2007, not only made use tions, with models striding forth from From suiting up homegrown ce- of woodsy notes in the juice — it also an icy backdrop in dark hats, long lebrities to running with the Olympic in a foggy homestead, surrounded by encased the glass perfume bottle in a gloves and plaid wraps. torch in Vancouver, here’s a look at horses and a bevy of scantily clad men wooden frame. all the ways the Dsquared2 twins carrying lassoes and pistols. The idea for the fl acon stemmed have sung “O Canada.” Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott were partly from a bottle of maple syrup behind the camera for the brand’s the designers spotted on sale at RETAIL spring 2010 campaign, which the de- Toronto’s international airport. In their first Milan flagship, which signers called “Camping.” Against a In 2008, the women’s eau de par- opened on Via Verri in 2007, the Caten vivid blue sky, models Daria Werbowy, fum She Wood followed, also featur- brothers opted for a lodge-like decor Arthur Sales, Andre Bentzer, Kyle ing a piece of wood along the top that combined logs from old-growth Ledeboer were shown hanging out of the glass bottle. trees with maple leaves, moose antlers, by a pristine lake, with a rowboat an imaginary forest, glowing fireplace, and cooler — presumably beer- A CERTAIN CELEBRITY 39-foot suede bench and Champagne fi lled — in tow. While various Canadian stars bar. In all, 17,000 timber chocks were have been spotted in Dsquared2, manually stacked to create a store HONORS & AWARDS one has a special relationship showcase. The designers’ love for with the brand’s design- Subsequent flagships in Paris, Canada has been pub- ers: Grammy and Juno Tokyo, St. Moritz, Mykonos and Los licly reciprocated award-winning singer, Angeles closely mirrored the Milan over the years, via a songwriter and actor boutique concept, although each also plethora of honors Michael Bublé. incorporated more local elements to and awards. Bublé clicked the design. For instance, while the St. Fashion Group International with the designers Moritz store featured a rustic look ap- recognized Dean and Dan Caten Coco at the 2010 Vancouver The Catens receive propriate to its mountainous location, for their accomplishments Rocha in Winter Olympics, and the fol- their star on Canada’s the Mykonos counterpart drew on the in fashion on April 17, Dsquared2 lowing April, he called on them Walk of Fame. seaside spirit of the Greek islands. 2008, during the Night of Stars at the 2014 for wardrobe assistance for his Gala at Toronto’s The Carlu Canadian Buenos Aires wedding to Luisana ADVERTISING event space. Arts and Lopilato. The duo dressed Bublé THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE HOME Shot by Steven Klein, Dsquared2’s fall On Sept. 14, 2009, the de- Fashion in a “Hollywood Tuxedo” from their To celebrate Christmas at home and 2004 advertising campaign featured signers received a star on Awards. classic collection, with a black silk the 50 candles on their birthday cake, and a posse of hunks Canada’s Walk of Fame, a dis- jacket and satin peak lapel, closed in December the Caten twins threw in an explicit series of comic-book tinction shared with the likes with a single button, and pants with a party evocative of their childhood style images, titled “The Great White of Ryan Reynolds, Céline a lateral black satin stripe. The shirt, yuletides of yore. North.” The campaign took consumers Dion and James Cameron, in white popeline, was matched with Approximately 140 of the design- on an outdoorsy romp, with not-so-sub- among many others. a black bow tie and nickel and black ers’ relatives descended on Toronto’s tle captions like “Bang” and “Is that Vancouver’s Winter leather cuff links. In a personal touch, Casa Loma — an early-20th-century wood hard enough to chop?” Olympics committee the designers stitched their best wish- Gothic Revival mansion — for a cel- For spring 2006, the wilderness named the brothers es inside the jacket. ebratory dinner made with Italian theme returned in the form of sexy “headline talent cos- The singer again turned to the ingredients specially fl own in for the cowgirl Carmen Kass, the star of the tume designers” for the twins in 2013, when he needed a look occasion. The designers made sure “Dean and Dan’s Ranch” campaign event’s opening and for the cover of his album “To Be to include their paternal grandpar- shot by Mikael Jansson. The blonde closing ceremonies in Loved,” and he donned Dsquared2 ents’ names, Arcangela and Pietro model was shown lounging around February 2010. After during his world tour the same year. Catenacci, on the invitations.

16 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES It All Adds Up Licensing is a small but important part of the overall business. By Cynthia Martens

LICENSED PRODUCTS in the fash- Greece and Russia. Martone said he ion world distill a brand’s essence, sees “many areas to tackle” for ex- and the range of items spawned by Snowboards are pansion: the brand’s scents are al- Dsquared2 is no exception. Backed by produced by Rough... ready available in Canada, but ITF salacious, jocular campaigns starring would also like to take on the U.S. hot young things in varying degrees and South America, and “improve our of undress, Dsquared2’s eyewear, fra- position in the duty-free sector.” grances, intimates and yes, even snow- Two years after signing their deal boards, provide consumers with an- with ICR-ITF, in 2008 the Caten other “way to belong to the company,” brothers signed a five-year licens- said Dean Caten. ing agreement with eyewear giant They’re also “more accessible as far Marcolin Group for the production as price point,” said Dan Caten, add- and distribution of their fi rst men’s ing: “Eyewear and fragrances are al- and women’s frames. ways the two fi rst things that are easy “Eyewear was our missing link and for someone with more of a budget” to we feel it’s important because a pair approach in high fashion. of glasses can make a distinctive state- Fragrance, eyewear and underwear ment and pull a look together,” Dan licenses are a relatively small part of told WWD at the time. The deal was Dsquared2 retail sales — the company extended for another fi ve years in 2012. says around 5 percent of the total — Dsquared2 “has a special place in our with selective distribution. portfolio and in our heart, for its fresh- Fragrances came fi rst, when the duo ness and its way of never being banal,” signed a 12-year licensing deal with said Marcolin ceo Giovanni Zoppas. Italian manufacturer ICR-ITF in 2006. He attributed the brand’s distinc- Roberto Martone, president and tive identity and international appeal chief executive offi cer of ICR and vice to its mix of elegance, edginess, mod- president of distribution arm ITF, said ern colors and vintage references. The he and his staff spent a year-and-a-half fi rst sunglasses bowed in 2009, and developing the fi rst Dsquared2 men’s prescription frames soon followed. scent alongside the designers. Shot by , a provocative “The decision to start with a men’s advertising campaign for the original fragrance came from the fact that batch of sunglasses portrayed Naomi [Dsquared2’s] fashion also began with Campbell and men’s wear,” Martone noted. The re- tackling each other while sporting sult, He Wood, channeled the design- Seventies-style shades. ers’ love of the Canadian outdoors through its woodsy notes and packag- the fi nal selection — they want to step percent of Dsquared2’s perfume sales, ...eyewear by Marcolin... ing; the eau de toilette hit the fi rst in at the beginning.” Martone said. shelves in September 2007 and remains Pivotal launches after He Wood An unrelated new women’s pillar is the brand’s bestseller. include She Wood (2008), Potion for also on the agenda for next October. “I have to say that the inspiration men (2011), Potion for women (2012), Today, Dsquared2 fragrances ac- for each perfume really has always Intense He Wood (2014) and Wild count for about 38 percent of ITF’s started with Dean and Dan,” said (2014), a men’s juice introduced with turnover of 125 million euros ($147 Martone, adding that the brothers a racy campaign by Steven Klein that million at current exchange), Martone viewed fragrance as another outlet for drew explicit parallels between mus- noted, and about 65 percent of that creative expression. “We work very cular model Silvester Ruck and an un- stems from men’s scents, versus 35 closely with them, they want to be in- tamed stallion. Although distribution, percent from women’s. The fragranc- volved in every stage of the process, which began in October, will only be es are distributed at an estimated from the outset…They’re really active, complete later this year, the fragrance 8,000 to 9,000 international doors, they want to participate, smell the fra- is already doing well and could eventu- and key markets are Italy, Germany, grances. They don’t limit themselves to ally account for anywhere from 25 to 40 Austria, the U.K., the Netherlands,

...and fragrances by ICR-ITF. Eyewear prices vary but generally average around 200 euros ($236). Fragrances and eyewear may be the designers’ best-known licenses, but the brothers have dabbled in a range of other product categories, too. In 2012, they signed a three-year deal with silk specialist ISA for the production and distribution of Dsquared2 men’s and women’s underwear and swimwear. The designers had fl irted with inti- mates nearly a decade prior, with a se- ries of in-house pieces such as men’s briefs with the words “I Love Beer” written across the front — and that ir- reverent approach remained key with ISA as partner. “Our collections have always been characterized by a strong element of seduction that stands halfway be- tween eroticism and exhibitionism,” Dean explained. And with their unabashed love of winter sports, it was inevitable that the duo would veer into athletic accesso- ries: in 2013, the Caten brothers signed a deal with Rough Snowboards for a series of boards for adults and chil- dren, at around 900 to 1,000 euros — or $1,062 to $1,180 at current exchange. DSQUARED2-254x171 New.pdf 1 08/01/15 12:16

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K 18 WWD FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2015 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The Picture Tells the Story IRREVERENT, PROVOCATIVE, eye-catching. Gisele Bündchen in a Since the launch of the brand, fall 2005 campaign Dsquared2 has consistently gen- shot by Mert Alas and erated buzz with strong advertis- Marcus Piggott. ing campaigns that capture the label’s free-spirited soul. The fi rst to team up with the company was Steven Klein, who collaborated with Dsquared2 for four years. The American pho- tographer used his cinematic approach to shoot some of the charged images that have con- tributed to the popularity of the label. Among them, the fi rst women’s campaign for fall 2003, showing Naomi Campbell posing among a group of half-naked men in hyper-glam clothes, contrasting with the spare, decadent set. The supermodel is also the protago- nist of another signature cam- paign shot by Klein a year later that reproduced a photonovel. With the brand’s collections evolving toward a more sophisti- cated and luxurious style, in 2005 the company went black-and-white, commissioning Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for a completely different approach. Dean and Dan Caten recreated chic Sixties’ at- mospheres in the intense images portraying Gisele Bündchen in a lady-like look. Then, Carmen Kass played a stunning, sexy cowgirl in the black-and-white shots by Mikael Jansson for spring 2006. In 2007, Dsquared2 returned to color with sensual and dramatic pictures taken by Steven Meisel, who put his stamp on the cam- paigns for the brand’s “He Wood” and “She Wood” fragrances. Naomi Campbell and In 2009, Alas and Piggott re- friends in the fall 2003 turned. Among the projects they campaign by Steven Klein. developed for the spring 2012 campaign were the colorful, re- bellious images celebrating the impact of music festivals on the fashion industry. The duo also fi lmed “Behind the Mirror,” the Carmen video for Dsquared2’s spring Kass in 2013 collection featuring the spring 2006 Caten twins both in men’s and by Mikael women’s clothing. Jansson. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

Steven Meisel’s moody spring 2007 campaign.

Alas and Piggott’s spring 2012 “music festival” campaign. A fall 2004 Steven Klein photonovel campaign. Joyce WWD Size: 10”x6.75” PDF1.3 Color: CMYK