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Full schedule inside www.grapevine.is THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND IN THE ISSUE Issue 2 • 2011 • February 4 - March 10 2011 + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! SHOPPING DAIRY #CABLEGATE MUSIC TRAVEL What will we do Skyr gets Siggi'd Greatest hits... The Sugarcubes: Snowboarding, without Havarí? did they world dominate glacier hiking: NICE! or die? Transparency WIKILEAKS IS NOT THE POINT! The info-wars have begun, and Iceland is begging to be the legislative battleground. Indeed, the so-called info-wars are raging, and Iceland is getting a piece of the action. Learn the story of Iceland's tryst with WikiLeaks and their love-child, the Icelandic Modern Media Initiative, whose plan to make the country into a transparency and information haven might put us back on the map. PAGE 10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 2 — 2011 THE REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík 2 www.grapevine.is [email protected] Editorial | Haukur S. Magnússon Published by Fröken ehf. www.froken.is Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association SOME WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS EXCLUSIVES www.saf.is Haukur’s 36th Editorial Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. ‘Cuz we can’t possibly fit all this awesome stuff on FUCK YOU, NEW YORK TIMES TRAVEL SECTION our pages EDITOR: Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] But not really. More like: fuck all of us. -What is Crealism? JOURNALIST: Interview with Luis de Miranda, father of the ‘Creal- Anna Andersen / [email protected] A regular day at Grapevine HQ entails lots of trying devaluation of the krona that followed the country’s ism’ movement. EDITORIAL: 2008 financial crisis, the breathtakingly beautiful is- -Jónsi GOES LIVE +354 540 3600 / [email protected] to keep folks happy, at least trying to avoid angering - show review ADVERTISING: them. See, Reykjavík is a pretty vibrant city, and there land is a lot more affordable, meaning that a hotel room +354 540 3605 / [email protected] are lots of people staging lots of events that all need that was $200 before the crash might cost $130 now.” -Apparat Organ Quartet release bash PUBLISHER: and deserve our attention/promotion, to ensure all you I was sorta outraged. “HOW DARE THEY?” I – show review Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] +354 540 3601 / [email protected] readers out there know about them and perhaps attend thought as I ground my jaws. “Are we enduring mass -Marc Vincenz examines Iceland in the interna- them. unemployment and severely painful cutbacks to essen- tional media CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: So we get anywhere between ten and fifty emails tials like healthcare, education and welfare [not to men- -Ryan Parteka tackles Reykjavík’s weird traffic Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir culture Sam Knight every day asking our help publicising an art show or tion the most joyless, soul-killing discourse known to Dr. Gunni concert or theatre performance or new puffin shop or humankind] all so some fancy New York Times reader -Explorer extraordinaire Louis Philippe-Lonke Markús Þór Andrésson whatever. This is fine; this is why where here: to serve can save $70 on his or her hotel room? Fuck you, New interviewed in depth Valur Gunnarsson -More BEST OF #CABLEGATE Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Iceland’s amazing community of artists, performers York Times travel section. Fuck you very much!” -LOTS OF NEWS Bob Cluness and entrepreneurs, and to ensure you know about all I relaxed a little. “Why would anyone revel in large -LOTS OF HOT TIPS Egill Helgason the cool stuff that they’re doing. We strive to serve our groups of people’s disadvantaged position anyway, just Nathan Hall -LOTS OF EVERYTHING ELSE Magnús Sveinn Helgason purpose, and we strive to provide equal exposure to ev- because it benefits them financially? There’s some- Madeilene T. eryone out there—although we do seem to favour some thing awfully wrong and distasteful about that mode Paul Fontaine-Nikolov of the work being done by our friends and/or relatives, of thinking. Shouldn’t they at least pretend to be down James Crugnale Bogi Bjarnason as is the style in Iceland (c’mon, that was a joke. Light- about it?” I mumbled to myself. Birkir Fjalar Viðarsson en up!). Filled with righteous indignation, I angrily closed Eiríkur Kristjánsson In any case, I was working on something or other the tab on my browser and clicked through to a link EDITORIAL INTERNS: the other day when I got one of those emails. This one someone posted had posted on Facebook. “APPLE’S Alda Kravec / [email protected] was from ‘concert hall and conference centre’ Harpa’s CRIME AGAINST HUMANITY”, the link said, and it Sindri Eldon / [email protected] recently appointed PR representative, enquiring wheth- took me to a story about workers at the FOXCONN fac- TRACK OF Steve Ganey / [email protected] THE ISSUE er we wouldn’t like to publicise the house a bit, as it was tory in Shenzhen, China, and how they suffer abuse, ON-LINE NewS EDITOR opening soon and all. “Sure,” I responded, “maybe a bit injury and insane work hours so we can save money on Download your free track at Paul Nikolov / [email protected] closer to when it opens this spring, though, as we are sexy designer electronics. grapevine.is ART DIRecTOR: Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] running a really short issue in February.” I read about the inhumane conditions at the factory DESIGN: She replied saying that was fine, but it would be where my MacBook and iPod were made by workers as Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] cool getting something on our website at least. Maybe young as 12-years old. And even though I had known PHOTOGRAPHER: Hörður Sveinsson / hordursveinsson.com we could write something about The New York Times all about conditions at factories in places like China SALES DIRecTOR: travel section naming it a ‘MUST SEE’ attraction and India—where most of our non-digestible consum- Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] when they dubbed Iceland one of their ‘41 Places To er goods are manufactured—for a long time, I still died Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] TRACK OF THE ISSUE DISTRIBUTION: Go In 2011’ article (who travels to 41 places in a year, a little inside. [email protected] My mind raced, and suddenly I recalled all the though?). She attached a link to the piece in question. Sin Fang: Always Everything PROOFREADER: I got a little excited. New York Times has a gigan- disposable clothes I have bought at places like H&M Jim Rice Download the FREE track at www.grapevine.is PRESS RELEASES: tic readership, and it’s a pretty cool newspaper. Maybe through the years. Items that I damn well know are [email protected] them pointing to Iceland as a cool place to visit will made by disadvantaged people under horrifying condi- SUBMISSIONS INQUIRIES: mean more tourists visiting, which means more adver- tions, items that I still bought because I feel like I can [email protected] Sin Fang Bous used to be the solo vehicle for Sea- tising, which translates to more pages per issue for us never afford anything and 2.000 ISK for a pair of jeans SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES: bear’s Sindri Már. It still is, except now it’s called Sin +354 540 3605 / [email protected] to write about everyone that’s staging events in Reykja- is just such a great price! Fang (which is a cooler name anyway). Now, don’t GENERAL INQUIRIES: vík, which means fewer angry glares from artists and I thought about every article I ever read in Icelan- [email protected] worry, the music is still really, really good. You read- dic media recommending some far off destination or FOUNDERS: event promoters when I go out drinking. ers may confirm this by hopping on over to www. Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, So I clicked through and scrolled down the page other because it was cheap, because they are poor, be- grapevine.is and downloading ‘Always Everything’, Hörður Kristbjörnsson, (we’re number four, after Santiago, Chile; San Juan cause they are undergoing (or live in a constant state of) Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, this issue’s TRACK OF THE ISSUE. Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Islands, Washington and Koh Samui, Thailand). I am ‘hardship’. The track comes from Sin Fang’s forthcoming album, Valur Gunnarsson not easily offended, especially on behalf of my nation And I thought: “Sorry for judging you, New York ‘Summer Echoes’ (to be released on March 4 via (in fact, I quite enjoy offending my nation given the Times travel section. I guess most of us deserve a big Morr Music/Kimi Records). It is a fine display of why The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times chance), but their headline offended me. It said: ol’ FUCK YOU.” so many people have fallen for Sin Fang’s sound. It is a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til Octo- adventurous, yet curiously conservative. It is heart- ber. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced 4. Iceland Present company included. felt, yet distant. A whispered scream, if you will. We in whole or in part without the written permission Where a country’s hardships are a visitor’s gain look forward to the full-length, and so should you. of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is dis- The opening paragraph read: “Iceland’s economic tributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, crash has had an upside, at least for tourists. After the www.myspace.com/sinfangbous Seyðisfjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country.