Examining the Iceland - China Free-Trade Agreement

The Puffin and the Panda Examining the Iceland - China Free-trade Agreement

The Lonesome Traveller is Out and About • Taking in Belgium • Is There Future For Music? Art Terrorist Returns • Books on the North Atlantic • Reykjavík International Film Festival

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 15 // Sept 21 - Oct 4 2007 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_YEAR 05_SEPTEMBER 21_OCTOBER 04

Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine 06 Future Music Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Interview with Gerd Leonhard www.grapevine.is [email protected] 08 Confessions of an Art-Terrorist, Part II www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine Interview with Sigtryggur Baldursson Published by Fröken ehf.

10 Mount Esja: The New Couple’s Therapy Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 12 Airwaves Countdown Publisher: +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Three Weeks The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff 45 The Saga Museum in Perlan Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Assistant Editors: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Features Editorial Intern: Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 16 Iceland – China Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson / [email protected] Music & Nightlife Contributing writer: Ian Watson / www.ianwatson.org Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] 20 Something Worth Hyping About Distribution: Samúel Bjarnason / [email protected] Franz Ferdinand at NASA Proofreader: Jim Rice

20 Who Needs Oxygen, Anyways? Press releases: [email protected] Sköllfest at TÞM Submissions inquiries: [email protected] Subscription inquiries: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 21 The Cornell Challenge General inquiries: [email protected] Chris Cornell at Laugardalshöll The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly 19 CD Reviews from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure Outside Reykjavík that all information inside the magazine is correct, prices and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in Reykjavík, Akureyri, 14 Across the Country in 40 Days Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður, Kárahnjúkar and at key locations around Adventures of the Lonesome Traveller, Leg 1 road #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres.

22 Belgium, an Unlikely Choice You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not 25 A Day at the Mall the advertisers’).

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B5 An Everyday Extraordinary Cover illustration by: Mary Ellen Mark’s Extraordinary Child at the National Museum of Iceland Sara Riel B6 Reykjavík International Film Festival Preview B7 CD Reviews B10 Food Reviews Boston, Hornið & Domo B12 Shopping B15 Five Classic Books About Moving to the North Atlantic The Puffin and the Panda Book Review Examining the Iceland - China Free-trade Agreement

The Lonesome Traveller is Out and About • Taking in Belgium • Is There Future For Music? Art Terrorist Returns • Books on the North Atlantic • Reykjavík International Film Festival

+ info. A Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Dining, Music, Arts and Events Issue 15 // Sept 21 - Oct 4 2007

From the Editor’s Chair This issue is the last of our summer issues. during the summer (the summer issues are coast to coast. He is back. And he is ready That means we will accept the inevitable win- more or less done in one week) means that to tell his story. His Walden will be published ter, and instead of bringing you a new issue we often don’t have time to spend on stories in six to eight installments over the next few every two weeks, from now until May, we that we find interesting, but would require issues. will bring you one new issue a month. Obvi- a longer work period. The winter is our op- I suggest everyone read the interview ously, that does not include our daily pub- portunity to follow such stories. But enough with Gerd Leonhard on page six. Gerd is a lication during the Airwaves festival, which about next issue, let’s talk about this issue. forward thinker who has incredibly intelli- is something worth being excited about. I’m Iceland – China free-trade agreement gent things to say about the future of mu- psyched at least. has been subject to some speculation for a sic distribution. His point of view is similar to Next issue, you might notice some chang- few months. This issue, Ian Watson takes that of Lawrence Lessig, the author of Free es to the paper. We will use this period to the difficult challenge of examining what the Culture, a book that everyone should read. do some fine-tuning, go over what has been agreement actually entails. Exiting stuff, I’ll (Download it from the Internet, it is free.) working this summer, and what not. We will tell you. change the look somewhat, to bring you a The Lonesome Traveller is actually a per- May you live in interesting times. fresh and exciting Grapevine this winter. son; he is a little different from the rest of Content wise, there will probably be us, obviously, for he elected to stay up in the some changes as well. The quick turnaround highlands for over 40 days, walking from 04_RVK_GV_15_2007_LETTERS Re: Icelandic Referees

Referees play an important role in any sport. Soccer is not the exception. Sour Grapes They are in charge of justice on the pitch. However justice does not wear a blindfold on the soccer fields in Iceland. The men in Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected]. black are unfair, not to mention partial to teams and players. Some footballers viciously and maliciously come after some Re: Icelandic Referees violence. opponents trying to take Referees play an important role in any sport. Soccer is Illegal drugs are available to buy 24hours a day on the them out of the game without any regard of fair play, much not the exception. street and at every school ground. less the safety of the player. They are in charge of justice on the pitch. However Maybe on the street right in front of the Mayors of- It is in these circumstances that the referees wear the blind- justice does not wear a blindfold on the soccer fields fice. folds. They see only what they want to see. in Iceland. The men in black are unfair, not to mention Could it just be, that the old daytime street drinking A vivid example that illustrates the point I am trying to get partial to teams and players. guys are smarter then the Mayor. across is Alicia Wilson who plays for KR. She is a very talented Some footballers viciously and maliciously come after People in Demark will have good joke on this one.--- and skillful player, and I believe whoever has seen her play some opponents trying to take The joke is on the Mayor of Reyjavík. would agree with me. She is also the fastest and quickest play- them out of the game without any regard of fair play, er in Iceland. Moreover, these qualities have become Alicia’s much less the safety of the player. Jonas Thor worst nightmare. Opponent players come after her in every It is in these circumstances that the referees wear the Gozo, Malta game trying to take her out of the game by any means, and blindfolds. They see only what they want to see. the man in charge of justice is nowhere to be found. A vivid example that illustrates the point I am trying to Alicia is passionate about the game, but she is by no means get across is Alicia Wilson who plays for KR. She is a Dear Jonas, a dirty player. She is an example and many should learn from very talented and skillful player, and I believe whoever her. has seen her play would agree with me. She is also the Obviously, Icelandic alcohol regulations do not com- There are five components in soccer, technical, physical, tacti- fastest and quickest player in Iceland. Moreover, these pare favourably to Danish alcohol regulations. Or may- cal, psychological, and the regulations of the game. Aggres- qualities have become Alicia’s worst nightmare. Oppo- be that depends on the viewpoint, I don’t know. But I sion has never been part of the sport, and when it takes place, nent players come after her in every game trying to don’t think the Mayor gave this much thought at all. It it is punished. However this rule is not applicable when KR take her out of the game by any means, and the man was a reflex action when some one yelled fire! number 7 is attacked, and if she responds in any way she is in charge of justice is nowhere to be found. Editor Alicia is passionate about the game, but she is by no means a dirty player. She is an example and many should learn from her. We spoke to someone in the editorial department last There are five components in soccer, technical, physi- week about the changing face of Reykjavik. We have cal, tactical, psychological, and the regulations of the been travelling to Iceland since the early 90’s, some- game. Aggression has never been part of the sport, times twice a year and we have always enjoyed spend- and when it takes place, it is punished. However this ing 2 or 3 nights in Reykjavik. It was a lively, friendly, rule is not applicable when KR number 7 is attacked, relatively clean city. We feel there have been some and if she responds in any way she is mercilessly pun- changes which make it a much less appealing place to ished. visit. We believe that a lack of pride and caring about Icelandic referees, stop the attacks promptly, and do the physical environment has infiltrated Reykjavik’s not run off international players who bring something culture to a great degree. A walk along Laugavegur good to the league and help make it better. Take off revealed a number of smashed shop windows. This we the blindfold and let justice wear it. have never seen before. Litter in alley ways , along city steets and in vacant lots is very unappealing to us as Truly yours, tourists. It seems the litter has increased to a great degree. Grafitti is now almost everywhere from older un- Oscar E. Lopez occupied buildings to newly painted renovated struc- [email protected] tures. This also is very unattractive and unappealing and we’re sure owners of the structures are not thrilled. The grafitti for the most part is far from artistic. To us it Reykjavík Dear Oscar, seem as though Reykjavik is losing its soul and is being abused by many individuals. We believe unless steps International First off, in Iceland, it is called football, not soccer. Soc- are taken to really curb these abuses and solutions are Film cer is a word used by barbarians. Second, what is your found with input from all parties involved, Reykjavik relationship with Alicia Wilson? will become less and less appealing to tourists and to Festival To me, the referee is allowed to make human errors, those people living there. The secure feeling we have same as the players. If you are suggesting that the ref- had in the past was not present during our last visit. erees are corrupted, I think you are wrong. This is not We hope that things do change so Reykjavik can once Reykjavík International Film Festival the NBA we are talking about. And by the way, my again become a special European city. We hope Icelan- congratulations to Valur FC for winning the Icelandic dic pride and ingenuity will bring Reykjavik back to an championship in women’s football. environmental leadership position as the major city in Editor a country with a unique environment. We look forward to hearing from you. 27. september 1 comment: ÁTVR Cindy and Paul Kaplan Never let a government or state run a public conces- Swan’s Island, Maine, U.S. sion of any kind. 7. oCtober Does the Mayor know that these kind of people do not care if the beer is cold or not. Dear Cindy and Paul, This violence occures late at night, the state booze stores close at 7pm. I am sorry to hear that our city no longer appeals to 2007 If there are six daytime street drinking guys together you. However, I don’t think the city is any worse than and ÁTVR will only sell by the six pack, then guess how it has been for the last ten years. And, you know, I live the six daytime street drinking guys will get their own here, so, case closed. Opening film: individual can of beer??? Editor I wonder if the Mayor has thought that there might be a drug problem in his town that is causing most this sIGUr rÓs - HeImA World premiere Thursday 27. September Friday 28. September

Ticket sales at www.riff.is The world premiere of Heima marks the opening of eleven days crammed with exotic films from every corner of the world - 87 of them to be precise. Visit our festival centre at Hressingarskálinn, Austurstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík or website for more information 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_INTERVIEW/MEDIA

“Bands are seeing the importance of building a brand name. If you have a million views a day of your blog and 5,000 people downloading your video, you can build a brand from it and don’t have to be so concerned about selling a CD.”

access, and the other thing is that musicians and labels will have to look at all the different ways they can make money as musicians – but first, they have to build a brand. Robbie Williams made seven or eight times more from branding and ads than record sales. The artist has nothing to worry about if you download his music, it doesn’t take away from him, provided he is smart enough to see the opportunities at hand. Iceland is being discussed as a suitable test-market for the new flat-rate system. Do you see this happening? The proposed model is simply a network license. Rather than saying that everyone has to pay when they want a song, we give them access to everything and charge a flat rate for that access. We provide a license to the telecom operators and portals and anyone who Future Music has a cell phone or any other kind of network access can get all of their music from there. I think it would work over well in Iceland Text by Haukur S. Magnússon Photo by Gulli because there are no major music labels in the country. It’s so small that even if nobody would buy any CDs, it would be relatively painless for A multitude of international music industry flat rate system, artists’ direct connection to and the consumers, but bad for the intermedi- the labels. The experiment is thus contained, figures and various professionals will con- the market, how niche markets are growing ary, i.e. the music industry, which has made and you can study the results. I think the total vene in Reykjavík in mid-October to attend more lucrative and how agents and managers almost all of its revenue from selling copies. market for CD sales in Iceland is around 10 an international conference that focuses on are becoming more important than the labels Very few artists made any money from selling million Euros, so this is very possible if you “The future of music distribution, Internet – all things that are quite clear to anyone who’s CDs, as most of the record companies tap up do the math. If everyone in Iceland pays one marketing and related topics.” The ambitious been following the progress for the last few 85% of the revenue on them. So in light of Euro a week for this access, and that revenue conference, promoted by the Icelandic Music years. the old model, this new way of doing things is distributed to labels and artists in accordance Export (IMX), is entitled “Who is in Control?” I do a lot of work advising companies and is excellent for artists and for fans but not for with the number of streams or downloads a If its keynote speaker, self-proclaimed “Media artists about the future of music. For the last the people in the middle, who now will have track gets, everyone will make more money Futurist” Gerd Leonhard, in any way lives up two years I have expanded into film, video, to think of new ways to make themselves and the consumer will also pay less. Iceland to his moniker, the answer to that question is TV, branding – in short everything that has to relevant. is also suitable because the people here really a concise: “No one”. The Grapevine met up do with content and technology, the overlap The small record companies have already like their music, and there is lots of local talent with Leonhard and learned how one becomes between creative work, intellectual property figured this out; all of them are becoming that would benefit from an early start in this a Media Futurist as well as why the global and how technology is using it. I help tech- agencies now. Distribution is easy now, you model. music industry needs to hoist up its pantaloons nology companies understand record labels; can have it on the net for almost zero cost, so What we have to do is create value for to prevent its bloated behind from showing record labels understand opportunities and what they do is specialise on helping the artist the composer and musician, a system where more than it already does. artists realise how they can market themselves. making the best possible music, and marketing we don’t bother charging for the individual Starting October 1, my new book, The End of that and promoting to get attention. The only song, at least not in the beginning. If you had What is your background? Could you ex- Control, will be available free of charge on-line thing that matters now, if you’re a musician, is to pay for every song you heard on the radio, plain to us what being a “Media Futurist” at endofcontrol.com. There I discuss how art- getting attention, and there are a lot of ways you wouldn’t listen to it. We need a system entails? ists, labels and publishers will have to give up of getting it. that’s all wrapped up in a flat rate, a system I went to the Berklee College of Music and the idea of controlling who gets their content Bands are seeing the importance of build- that’s ad supported and whose many operators studied Jazz guitar there, so I’ve basically been and how, and how there are other things they ing a brand name. If you have a million views would take care of the consumer costs instead in the music business all my life, as a musician, can sell than physical copies of it. a day of your blog and 5,000 people down- of ad revenue. The ISPs and phone companies producer, concert promoter, etc. I spent 12 How, then, do you foresee the future of loading your video, you can build a brand will probably wind up paying your one Euro years as a professional musician, touring and music distribution and consumption? from it and don’t have to be so concerned per week fee for you, if you agree to watch a recording different projects and playing every- The biggest change is that the model is moving about selling a CD. You can still sell them couple of ads per day. thing from concert halls to cruise ships. In the away from selling units to selling access. That to anyone who wants them, but the main So, you ultimately see this evolution mid-90s, I started working for the European means that at first you have to give access, focus should be providing access. You have as benefiting musicians and music-fans Commission on a project that employed 800 in some cases for free. You provide a way for to build the audience, to borrow a marketing alike? experts from all over Europe – the Arts Educa- people to find it on the Internet, blogs and term, it’s a big switch from “push marketing” I think that no matter what we do, the users tion and Training Initiative. We were looking social networks like MySpace and Facebook. where you force your product on people via and what people used to know as consum- at ideas to improve the economic conditions You provide access for the larger communi- advertising and flyers, to “pull marketing” ers – which is not that easy anymore – the for artists, musicians and writers, to help them ties in return for an ad-revenue split, so that where you play a gig, provide a good web-site user will get benefits everywhere. There are make money. money is made from the web site but the that features downloads and free streams to 1 billion people on-line, 1.5 billion people After working on that project for two music is free for the user, very much like radio social networks; all of these things work to watching TV and 3 billion with cell phones. years, it became clear to me that the Internet is done. No one pays for radio, but there’s still pull people in. If what you’re offering is any What’s happening is that the user is becoming was going to completely change the economy money being made. good, they’ll get stuck, and if it’s really good, more powerful, as there are so many of them. of how artists, especially musicians, distribute The thing about music consumption is that they will become loyal fans. And then you can Anything that keeps the user from getting their products and make money from them. In it’s changing over. The kids don’t want to start sell them something. his desired value is swept away. If you put a 1994, I started my first Internet projects and by buying a physical product, although they Lots of bands don’t sell any CDs at all, rock in a river, the river will get around the wound up working for ten different Internet may spring for it later. As you know, those instead making all their money from concerts. rock, it will find a way, and this is how you companies from 1995–2002, as well as found- aged 12–27 only want to click on a website Grateful Dead is a good example, and Prince is should view the users. There’s no use in trying six of those myself. or through their mobile phone to check the a more recent one. He gave away his last CD ing to place rocks in their way to stifle their since 1972 Long story short, after the Internet bubble music out; they consume music in an interac- for free in England recently because he could route, you should rather try and go with the crashed and all the companies died in 2001 I tive way and aren’t ready to pay right from make more money from playing a concert. flow. Travel agents, for instance, used to book ICEWEAR clothes and products are available at the following stores: moved back to Europe and wrote a book called the beginning. In the old way, you had to buy There are many, many ways to make money as your trips and flights for you, a process that Reykjavík: Rammagerðin, Hafnarstræti 19 - Ullarhúsið, Austurstræti 3, Reykjavik – Thorvaldsenbazar, Austurstræti 4 The Future of Music which became a bestseller the full CD before making your mind about a musician aside from selling copies, whether you now take care of on-line. There are still Islandia, Kringlan Shopping Center - The Viking, Hafnarstræti 3 - Handprjónasambandið, Skólavörðustíg 19, Laugavegi 64 in the industry. It’s been widely translated and the music, while now I can check out a punk it be licensing songs for movies, television lots of travel agents around; they have simply Ull og Gjafavörur, Hótel Sögu, Lækjargötu 2 – Hitt Hornið, Laugavegi 100 – Álafoss Verksmiðjusala, Laugavegi 1– Ísey, Klapparstíg 30 pretty much everyone has it. There, share the band from Japan, listen to all of their tunes and or computer games, selling concert tickets, reorganised what they do. Other locations: Blue Lagoon, Svartengi – Rammagerðin, Flugstöð Leifs Eiríkssonar – Eden, Hveragerði – Geysir Shops, Haukadal things I learned in my years in the business, and watch their videos for free – if they draw me merchandise, writing a book even. Byggðasafnið Skógum - The Viking, Akureyri – Mývatnsmarkaður, Mývatn – Mývatn ehf, Skútustöðum, Mývatn since then I’ve been lecturing, blogging and in and I become a fan, I will try and buy their So to summarise, there are two changes Tákn Sport og Útivist, Húsavík - Sæferðir, Stykkishólmur - El Grillo, Seyðisfjörður – Álafoss Verksmiðjusala, Álafossvegi 23, Mosfellbæ writing about the future of digital technology CDs and T-shirts and go to their shows. evident. One is from access to ownership, and music. I talk about things like the proposed This evolution is positive for the musicians where you now make money by providing Drífa ehf, Sudurhraun 12 C, 210 Gardabaer, Iceland, Tel +354-555 7400, Fax +354-555 7401, [email protected] 08_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_INTERVIEW/MUSIC

“First, I asked Bragi Special offer Ólafsson if we should put together a mini-version of Kormákur B’s Jazz Band so we could afford some food. He told me he had given up on music and had decided to become a writer instead...”

Ben Frost, a very avant-garde musician; and Pétur Ben. These are all different things, but I have such a wide musical palette, I enjoy the variation, I need to stay busy with many different things. Do young musicians seek advice from your experience? I try not to give much advice. I am not sure I am the right person for that. But I enjoy working with young musicians and I am very happy to have had that opportunity. Usually they have come to me, but if you are open and seek out new things in what you are doing, that will happen. I’ve been lucky in that aspect. But I have no grand master plan at work. I just try to stay open to new things and to keep busy. I am very happy with my career, and I think it has been very colourful and varied. I read somewhere that you were a part of Confessions of an Art-Terrorist, Part II a project with [Type O Negative frontman] Peter Steele, something called Icelandic Ancestry? Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Gulli Did you see this on Wikipedia? I have seen this on Wikipedia also, and I have no idea what this is. I found some guy on Wikipedia Few Icelandic musicians remain as active as but since then you have kept quite busy. that is just fun to croon. But the strange twist called Peter Steele and I have no idea who he former Þeyr, KUKL and Sugarcubes drummer I would almost go so far to say that two is that people always want to pay money to is. I have been associated with many projects Sigtryggur Baldursson. Last issue, Sigtryggur musicians could hardly come together listen to him, but when I try to do something on the web that I have no idea what it is. But talked a Grapevine journalist through his ca- with out you joining them on drums. creative, like [percussion duo] Steintryggur, I have a likely explanation. When I lived in reer up to and including the Sugarcubes. This Heh, well, it is not that serious. I’ve been a that is an uphill battle all the way. But luckily, the US, when my wife was studying there, week, we find out what happened after the part of many projects. Most notably probably I still have a humour for this. I was working in some studios there. One Sugarcubes disbanded. is this crooner, the Bogomil Font character that So, again, like the Sugarcubes, this starts of the things I did was to release three CDs I have maintained. He is a lounge lizard, and a out as an art-terrorism project, that be- with beats. I know that people have used the I remember being in Austria as a small mambo dude. It started as a joke really. It was comes hugely successful. beats from these CDs in their music, but this Discounts on day tours kid, probably in 1988, and I saw the cover a part of the art-terrorism concept surrounding Yes. was sold as copyrighted material and used of the album Birthday by the Sugarcubes Bad Taste Ltd.. Probably the last art-terrorism So, is it entirely possible for you to be a with loop programs like Acid. I have found in a storefront window in Vienna. For me project we did was Kormákur B’s Jazz Band, successful art-terrorist? people that have credited me as a drummer it was probably the first manifestation which was intended to be a 14-15 people jazz No, you just have to keep the teeth sharp. It in their projects when they have used these that someone from Iceland could actually band that knew nothing about playing jazz. It helped me a lot when the band Flís approached CDs. Maybe they knew who I was, or enjoyed 5% discount for 1 daytour become world famous, and that you [The was made out of rock musicians around our Bogomil to do a calypso record with them. That the Sugarcubes or something. But even if they Sugarcubes] had probably done it. It was own label [Bad Taste] but it was more like a allowed me to revive this concept with him, to use my beats, that is not the same thing. I was a strange feeling theatre, so every one dressed up in fine cloth- do a calypso record with sharp, straight cut- also working as a session player in a studio It was for us as well. Very surrealistic. But still, ing and played their own character and then ting lyrics. I was getting a little tired of being called Smart, which is owned by Butch Vig. I we were such a strong group, and we had our we went on stage and absolutely slaughtered stuck in this family entertainer role. Even if I recorded albums with many musicians there. 10% discount for 2 daytours own philosophy, which helped us a lot. We these famous jazz songs. But it was still sort had humour for it, and it created money, it still That’s how I think I became associated with were pretty determined when it came to ne- of charming, beautiful kind of ugly really. This needs a blood transfusion every now and then these different projects. gotiating with companies; obviously we were was an idea from [former Sugarcubes bass to stay fun. The record Bogomil made with Flís Since we are on US turf, it is probably best working with a very good man in England, player] Bragi Ólafsson actually, and it was a is a cross-over. I am not singing Fly Me To The to ask you about a consistent rumour that 15% discount for 3 daytours Derek Burkett [founder, One Little Indian], who lot of fun, probably the last big project we did Moon anymore. We wrote our own lyrics, and you were offered a position as a drummer had similar ethics when it came to negotiating as a group together. that changed the whole concept. It became a in Pearl Jam. with major labels and distribution companies: Anyway, the concept was that you gather bit political, calypso music is so much fun, it is I knew Eddie Vedder before he was a rock star just take them as far as you can. The tougher a lot of interesting people and each one of very jolly music, but it always has this politi- (Eddie Vedder roadied for the Sugarcubes), and Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions you are in negotiations, the more they will them gets to create their own character to cal undercurrent and very sharp lyrics. That’s I met him again after he became a rock star respect you. So, we were able to negotiate play, then we rehearse some songs, only not where I found a new path for Bogomil, and when we played a festival with them. He had sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, for creative control over our work, which was too much, and eventually we would play these was able to do something that I felt mattered. changed a bit; he became a very artsy reclusive Our brochure is available uncommon in those days. We could just make large dance halls like Hótel Borg. That’s when I was able to reconnect him with myself when type, instead of the happy bouncy kid he used music the way we wanted. Bogomil Font came about He was this crooner, I started writing lyrics for him. to be. This is just when they are becoming Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. at all major hotels and Obviously, the pressure on us was sub- with a huge Bulgarian moustache. Later, after So are you more willing to be accepted famous, back in ’92. He was already into that liminal, and eventually it all became a game the Sugarcubes disbanded, I was broke and as a political musician then you were be- part he plays with Pearl Jam, the serious wor- guesthouses. between the record industry and us. There needed money, so I thought I would form fore? ried type, a character that he has cultivated is always the pressure to take it to the next a small pub-band with some friends. First, I Yes, I am doing this consciously now. When I very well. But they had some problems with level, that the next record should sell more asked Bragi Ólafsson if we should put together was in KUKL, I never expressed myself much drummers in the beginning. Dave Abbruzzese than the previous one, all that bullshit. Sud- a mini-version of Kormákur B’s Jazz Band so politically. My politics was more on a personal played with them on the first album, but quit denly we found ourselves listening to lectures we could afford some food. He told me he level. I was trying to create revolutionary music. the band in ’94 or ’95. At that point, they were on marketing in America, which we had no had given up on music and had decided to That was my politics back then. Now I am not looking for a drummer, and I get a call from SIA.IS KYN 35667 01.2007 interest in. This was all pretty surreal. But we become a writer instead. But he told me to trying to create political music, with [Bogomil their agent’s office and some woman tells me tried to laugh it up, for a long time. The clever- gather some people who knew how to play Font], but I regard Steintryggur, Parabola, and that Eddie had mentioned me as a possible ÍSLENSKA ness of what we decided could probably be and create a mambo band, which I did, more these other projects as an extension of what I replacement and asked if I was interested in debated in some cases, obviously we learned as a joke really. But then it became a runaway was doing in KUKL. I am trying to create music auditioning. But I knew Eddie, and I thought a lot. This industry is based on advances. You hit in 1992. that I don’t hear anywhere else. Something this was just so much bullshit, so I told her I get an advance on your publishing; you get I had never intended to be a ball king in that is unique to me, which is something I was ready to audition and said she could tell an advance from the label to make your next Iceland, so when my wife told me she wanted believe every creative artist tries to do, to cre- Eddie to call me himself if he wanted me to album, and so on. You better not take that to go study in the US in ’93, I was just pleased ate something they think matters, something come in. But he was very sheltered, and kind money and spend it on houses and cars, cause to leave this behind. But since then, I have that is an original creation. This sounds very of paranoid, so I never expected him to call me. then you have no money to make the record. always tried to joke a little with this theatrical formal, but I think that it is still true. Which he never did, this was just hyperbole. But we didn’t necessarily realise that, so when character Bogomil, and I revive him every now But you’ve been a part of many differ- This is probably just as good. I am not sure I we quit we didn’t have a god damn cent. That and then to earn me some money, although it ent projects lately, apart from Bogomil, would have fit into that group, I mean, they Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] was a lesson. has nothing to do with creative integrity when Parabola, and Steintryggur? were playing grunge music, I would have had The Sugarcubes disbanded in 1992, shortly it comes to music. Obviously, he only sings Yes, I enjoy playing with young musicians. I to get an all-new wardrobe. after the release of Stick Around For Joy, cover version, jazz and mambo, something have been playing with Sammi’s Big Band; 10_RVK_GV_15_2007_ARTICLE

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Mount Esja: The New Couple’s Therapy

Text by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson Photo by Gulli

In these modern times the therapy market is booming world around us and what we had missed while being with self-help books, talk shows, relaxing CDs, day spas caught up in the charms of parenthood. We stopped and the usual pill that’s suggested by four out of five not to get water straight from the stream and laughed at so known doctors. However, sometimes all you need is a how far we had to go to the top. He worried about me Free pickup at your hotel in the Reykjavík area. day away from the market. On a day with an acceptable when I lost my balance on the sharp jagged rocks to weather forecast and a need for a self- or relationship- level five, while I listened as he shared his knowledge renovation, Mt. Esja offers that and so much more. of the mountain and his experiences of its beauty from On a sunny day in July, my husband and I packed his childhood. When we finally reached level five we some food, a camera and sent the baby off to grandma’s stopped to snack on the power bars and fruit from our house. We only had one goal in mind – the top of Esja. backpack and decided to rest for ten minutes before Contact Info: Tel: +354 577 6050 - Fax: +354 567 9195 - Tangarhöfði 8 - www.bergcar.is - [email protected] At 914 meters high and about 20 kilometres long, Mt. trudging our way to the very top. In those ten minutes Esja answered our prayer for some peace, quality time it started to get a little cold and at that point we had and an opportunity to work together to accomplish a been away from the baby for almost three hours. The monumental task. Like so many couples who have spent best part of the trip happened in the next 30 minutes. years together, life can start to look like an assembly As I clearly did not want to go on, my husband lovingly line. Everyone does their part everyday the same way put his foot down and confirmed that we were going to produce the same product. In our case, we had spent to finish what we started. He jokingly commented that the previous two months focusing our time and energy if we didn’t finish this one adventure it would lead to a on our newborn. Not that we do not completely adore life of unfinished projects. Although his joke bled with and unconditionally love our child, it was just also cer- comedic exaggeration, he was right on point and I had tain that we needed time to breathe differently, to get to give in. to know one another as individuals again and to step For the last bit of the hike he got behind me and away from our roles as “the one that breastfeeds” and pushed both physically and mentally. It was teamwork “the one that changes all the poopie diapers.” in its truest form and I appreciated him so much more In theory we were going to be the super-athletic for the motivational edge. I realized that when someone power couple that dominated the mountain in a record loves you that much it’s their job to push you in ways breaking time of 45 minutes. However, after realizing that make you stronger and realise your full potential. that I had given birth eight weeks prior and that he When we finally reached the top it felt as if we had joined did not possess the Beckham-like form he once had, this exclusive club as we visually absorbed every speck we decided that on this hike we were going to take it of the most breathtaking view of the city of Reykjavik. slow and use the time to stop and smell the roses for The experience was surreal and yet provided my husband once. Our decision was also assisted by the fact that an and me with such tangible memories of one of the best elderly couple with walking sticks and their two children days we have had together. So next time you need a passed us quite speedily on the way up. At that point break, remember Dr. Esja, couches not included. we looked at each other and knew that our competitive egos could take at least one day off. Before we even reached level one I was blaming him for the heat and for lending me the wrong pants to wear. (I actually thought he was sabotaging the trip by being better prepared than I was.) This of course completely In theory we were going to be annoyed him, forcing him to walk even faster and leaving me to lag behind and grow even more frustrated. The the super-athletic power couple horizon looked bleak with the premature bellyaching that dominated the mountain and the little frustrations from the heat and fatigue. However, after we cooled down a bit by stripping down in a record breaking time of to tank tops and shorts and gulping down two bottles of orange-flavoured Gatorade, we got back on track 45 minutes. and reminded each other of the day’s purpose. As the trek fared on we reminisced about when we first met and how much our lives had changed since then. We caught up on what was going on in the

WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS 12_RVK_GV_15_2007_MUSIC Listasafn Reykjavíkur Reykjavik Art Museum

31 August – 21 October The Icelandic Love Corporation 8 September – 4 November Gjörningaklúbburinn Eggert Pétursson Countdown to Airwaves: 4 Weeks Hafnarhús Kjarvalsstaðir

Text by Haukur S. Magnússon Photo by Leó Stefánsson

As you are reading this, the last dozen of this year’s Grizzly Bear Open daily 10–17. One admission ticket is valid for three days Iceland Airwaves participants are being announced. All Don’t believe the hype! Take a listen for yourself and Free entrance on Thursdays. in Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundur in all, over 190 bands and solo artists will perform at take in the wisdom that Grizzly Bear are truly one of Sveinsson Sculpture Museum. the festival, which is way more than ever before. Iceland the most pleasurable things to happen in to the whole Airwaves will take place in just over three weeks, which of left-field music in a long time. And if the left field means that none of us will have time to properly acquaint doesn’t appeal to you, you should still check ‘em out, as ourselves with the many, many masterful acts we’ll be they have tunes by the bucket load and aren’t afraid to able to feast our eyes upon come that long, lager-soaked use them either. As much as their recorded output has Opening hours see www.handknit.is weekend in October. A great task is at hand. been raved about for the past months, their live shows are receiving even uppier thumbs from those who’ve www.listasafnreykjavikur.is [email protected] Tel +354 590 1200 Fax +354 590 1201 The Iceland Airwaves web site, at www.icelandairwaves. had the pleasure of witnessing. As far as I’m concerned, Ad Grapevine 245x195 (EE) 17/09/07 12:46 Page 1 com, is a great resource in this respect, as it lists all of Grizzly Bear are this year’s “Airwaves must”, and I’ll wait the performers, links to their MySpaces and even doles in line for a long time to see them. out free mp3s of most of them. Ticket holders and music enthusiasts – now is your cue to plop yourselves Smoosh down in front of a computer, note-pad and alcoholic The first thing you will learn about Smoosh is that the beverage in hand. Have a ball making your schedule, band is comprised of a pair of sisters in their early teens and enjoy the anticipation build-up, when you discover (13 and 15 years old, respectively) who have been writ- yet another great track from some oddly named fucks ing and recording songs under the guidance of Death you’ve never heard of. And if you discover something you Cab for Cutie drummer Jason McGerr for the last seven loathe on the bill, you can use your advantage to stock years. This is truly interesting, but there’s so much more up on rotten eggs and snappy comments for heckling. to it than that. Like a younger Jakobínarína, minus the Be creative: personalise! Those shiny promo pics and abundance of arrogance and Y-chromosomes, Smoosh blatantly boastful bios are more useful than you think. play perfect pop tunes filtered through some rocking But do not throw anything at the Airwaves-newcomers influences and the joyous innocence that accompanies listed below, for they are all awesome. See: their young age. Currently touring the US with Bloc Party, Smoosh will whip Airwaves crowds into a frenzy Bertel come October. Just you see. These kids from Seltjarnarnes have been getting it on for a while now, and they’ve been getting considerably better Ra Ra Riot with every passing month. Reminiscent of old Icelandic This unfortunate band gained their biggest surge of punk circa “Rokk í Reykjavík” (the hugely influential publicity for all the wrong reasons. Ra Ra Riot’s music I’M SENDING 1982 documentary, now mostly known for featuring is of the infectious variety, tuneful popage rammed a very young Björk freaking out), mixed with Emiliana through a blender of American indie-influences, so Torrini’s pronunciation and some very early-21st Gang they were already making waves (and booked to play of Four-isms. Also: rowdy fun concert stuff. Airwaves) when tragedy struck the band last June. Songwriter, founding member and excellent drummer MY SUPPORT FM Belfast John Pike drowned while apparently on the way home FM Belfast’s show at last year’s Iceland Airwaves was after an aftershow party. After some speculation, the truly the stuff of legends, as those in attendance will band announced they would keep going, not the least attest to. They raised hell at Pravda, so much in fact to honour Pike’s vision and memory. A truly sad story, that the place literally burned down (give or take a few but what’s important is that Ra Ra Riot is an amazing months) and frankly isn’t there anymore. They have live band (as I witnessed at SXSW), and their music is long been staples of the 101 Reykjavík music scene, genuinely good. but unlike many of their contenders actually have the tunes and showmanship to back up their infamy. Expect a great homecoming show at Airwaves, since 2/3rds of the band is currently residing in New York, attending art school. What else. Ticket holders and music en- Hraun Hraun will surprise you at Airwaves. Even though they thusiasts – now is your cue to only released their début this spring, Hraun is indeed one plop yourselves down in front of Iceland’s veteran bands. Since Hraun’s inception, they © 2007 WESTERN UNION HOLDINGS, INC. All rights reserved. have played an untold number of shows (that usually of a computer, note-pad and drag to an untold amount of hours in length) around the country, usually leaving behind a trail of satisfied, alcoholic beverage in hand. tired and drunk folks. Describing their performances as “party concerts” – they have mastered the art of sneaking up on you from behind, usually starting with Fast, reliable, worldwide money transfer. low-key versions of their folksy original material and climaxing a couple of hours later in a frenzy of joyous Falco covers. 14_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_TRAVEL/KJÖLUR REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_TRAVEL/KJÖLUR_15

is Ásbyrgi’s trademark and greatest attraction memories give way to immediate enjoyment, ches the waterfall of Hafragilsfoss, the walk an unceasing pilgrimage of visitors, devotees – from a strong vantage point at the southern tension melts into inebriation. No, it won’t be becomes more technical and challenging – but ready to stand in awe before its nude display Across the Country in 40 Days: edge, the gaze can embrace it in its entirety. the most spectacular scenery I have ever expe- the increasing effort is repaid by some of the of wrath and power. I am not exempted, and Mythology and poetry claim this place to be a rienced in Iceland, but even at the fourth visit most charming views encountered so far. The the morning after my arrival I am there, under mark in the earth left by the passage of Sleipnir, the Jökusárgljúfur National Park can reserve waterfall itself, nested deep inside the gorge a clear blue sky, paying visit to and spending Adventures of The Lonesome Traveller, Leg 1 Odin’s steed. delighting surprises. The craters of Rauðhólar and crowned in floating rainbows, offers a a generous portion of film on this Moloch of Geologists, on the other hand, have interp- – adorned with pointy pinnacles and vividly memorable spectacle. dirty water and silt. reted it as the outcome of a jökulhlaup (glacial red as if stained in blood – certainly are one So it has come that the third day of my Text and photos by by Fabrizio Frascaroli flood burst) of ridiculously huge scale – possibly of those, and seem to act like a border beyond Dettifoss journey has begun, blessed by sunny weather an even more catastrophic and unconceivable which all is mystery and wonder. When Dettifoss finally irrupts, it seems or- and the rarity of some 25°c in the air. My high explanation than the former. Personally, at The path winds among arcane basaltic chestrated a with savant cinematic touch. spirits, however, are fated to shortly face a “Why on earth am I doing this?” last organisational details. I dropped a couple strange, considering how this place is a fa- scenery you will ever encounter in the inlands, least, I have some troubles depicting a flood formations now – towers, caves, fortresses, As the Hafragil lowlands are left behind, the sudden demise. I have only walked a couple The question surfaced a bit earlier in the of boxes at the office, and made sure that vourite among foreign and Icelandic tourists but the region remains well worth the explora- stemming from a glacier (probably following and skulls of rock. Products of the torment landscape changes its face abruptly and en- of kilometres from the waterfall when I stop morning and lingered there for a handful of they will safely reach Mývatn and Askja – my alike. The atmosphere does not feel particularly tion, and predictably one of the most trodden some under-ice eruption) so terrific in scale that of the land, to a keen eye they could appear tirely. It becomes barren – utterly barren – a again for a few photos. I kneel, camera in seconds, as a last desperate warning or un- next destinations – within a few days. I am electrical. Even the weather seems undecided trekking resorts in the country. it inexorably ploughs hundred of kilometers of as cyclopean artefacts of times immemorial, monotonous stretch of black sand and solid, hand and pointed at the horizon. A sudden conscious solicitation to withdraw. I was at the planning to stay in the wilderness for more whether it will offer a fair and sunny sky or For me, it represents an ideal preparation land, excavates a deep and nearly rectilinear which the course of ages has covered in trees crude rock. Only minuscule patches of vege- breath of wind blows the fine sand all over me Akureyri campsite, while a light but persistent than one month: a Trex bus will take me to the “Weather of Great Occasions” (that is for the upcoming effort. I have chosen one gorge, and finally impacts the soil with such and scrubs. I dream of a megalopolis once tation are scattered here and there: small and and my precious equipment. I wait it out and drizzle hit the ground and my bare hands Ásbyrgi, in the North-East, and from there I cloudy, foggy and drizzly). I linger on: the of the hardest routes through the Highlands, brute violence that it models a hoof-shaped inhabited by some cruel and ancient civilizati- untamed flowers pathetically emerging from continue, but my zoom-lens does not respond intent at packing up the tent, and an array of will be walking for hundreds of kilometres, all freshly renovated visitor’s centre makes for an across deserts, marshes, glaciers, and roaring canyon out of bare rock – and all of this, in on, such as the ones conceived by the morbid the wasteland around just to ask “What are anymore: it got stuck by the grains and simply images buzzed within my head – projections the way to Þingvellir, at the opposite corner interesting stop and passionate introduction to rivers: I can expect plenty of challenges and the mere turn of a few hours. Whatever the imagination of H. P. Lovecraft. It is a fuzz of we doing here?” One could easily think of a does not turn any more. I make a first attempt and anticipations of all the misery to carry out of the Country. There is no way I can carry all the area and another cup of coffee for makes dramatic landscapes ahead. For the moment, origination myth, it is hard to deny or underrate voices and footsteps that brings me back to the Western movie’s final and epic duel, or even at remaining calm, sit down and smoke. “Once that same operation under blowing winds, equipment with me from the beginning, so I for an excellent excuse to postpone the start a enjoying a mellow and leisurely start, just long the sort of serene and majestic fascination concreteness of the present: I am only a couple St. John’s Apocalypse, set in such a place: in the cigarette will be over, I am sure the lens will heavy rain, and dozens of miles away from must rely on timely deliveries of supplies along bit still. A few last retouches to my backpack, enough to fully get into gear, appears to be that the overgrown glen of Ásbyrgi – with of kilometres away from the resting point at no way would it feel out of context. Yes, the work fine again” I tell myself. The facts cont- a friendly voice or the nearest cup of warm the way. and at last I am convinced that it truly is time the most reasonable and pleasant option. its steep cliffs, thick vegetation, and emerald Vesturdalur, and visitors are more frequent sensation is that of being at the far end of the radict my delusional optimism. My attempts coffee. A rather depressing scenario. It seems that the ride to Ásbyrgi will be to start: only matter of moving the first steps, The trail’s initial portion runs along the green ponds – exercises on the visitor. Even in this part of the park. I reach the campsite world. Not to mention the roar – that constant, at keeping calm crumble. I swear, try to force It is not uncommon to falter on the verge an intimate affair, concerning only me and a and all the rest will come easier. It is July 9, eastern side of the highly scenic canyon that when all appears blurred and faded under a after my first day of marching spent under overwhelming noise of precipitating waters the lens, but the screeching noises suggests of a long-awaited moment. As I found out couple of other hikers, obviously Germans. and I have begun my journey. leaden, sullen sky, like today. overcast but dry weather. I barely have time that draws nearer. to me that I am doing more harm than good. a long time ago, however, being chronically The bus driver – a friendly chap of few words There is a marked and well-tended path for crunching my dinner before finally paying When the main actor eventually reveals Apparently, I must accept the evidence: for the late is a basic and nearly impeccable antidote and many smiles, who smirked at my compli- leading southwards from Ásbyrgi to the water- Winding Down toll for last week’s lack of sleep. Without even itself, it is still cloaked in a cloud of drizzling moment, I cannot rely on a camera any more for such sudden weaknesses of the mind. mentary ticket – has been busy (and evidently fall of Dettifoss. It unfolds along the western I left town in a situation of most dramatic realising it, I collapse like a sack of potatoes splashes, raised up in every direction by the – clearly, an unbearable perspective. I sit down So the questions ceased while the scramble self-satisfied) for several minutes, stuffing the bank of the mighty river Jökulsá á Fjöllum, Mythology and poetry haste: being chronically late also has an ob- onto my sleeping bag (rather than inside it) impact. The real risk after all of the expecta- and smoke again, thoughtful. I try to repeat continued with only one apprehension left: to wagon with all sort of packages and endless within one of the most important protected noxious side. The franticness of my last days – it is not even nine o’clock. tion-building, however, is disappointment. In to myself that the unforeseen is part, even make it in time for the bus, possibly without cartons of milk. Finally, he slams the container’s areas in the country: the Jökusárgljúfur (Glacial claim this place to be a in Reykjavík has left a visible scar in my mood Fair weather greets me at awakening. The reality, the mighty Dettifoss actually sucks. the very juice, of adventure. Maybe. For now, any disastrous tumble in the process. door closed and turns his eyes towards me. It River Canyon) National Park. It is a reserve of mark in the earth left by and, no matter what, I still feel loaded with landscape gradually changes texture and grows There is nothing beautiful, cosy or picturesque however, I only see the adventure prematurely Waiting – the activity in life I dislike the is time. unique geological formations, fragrant birch nervousness and irritation. As the first kilo- idyllic, while the almost disquieting sculptu- about this waterfall: just a square wall of fluid slipping away: I feel miserable and perplexed most. In this case the wait is fortunately short, woods, rich fauna, and easy walking. The low the passage of Sleipnir, metres roll by, I am mainly focused inwards, res of basalt that accompanied my course mud erected there to scare the children into about the course to take – just a lonely and and allows for a very welcome cup of cof- Ásbyrgi elevation, the grassy and soft soil, the presence trying to give my thoughts the same placid yesterday become progressively rarer, until tears or delight those statistics-lovers such as bent figure in the landscape at the end of the fee. This morning’s stress rush was beneficial: It is around noon. I must have slept the entire of an organised trail network – all of this ma- Odin’s steed. green colour of the surroundings. I don’t have fading into memory. For a dozen kilometres, yours truly. (“Hey, after all this is the waterfall world, three days into my 40-day journey. besides getting rid of all lingering fears and way. The woods and shrubs of Ásbyrgi look kes for a comfortable, family-friendly hiking to wait long, however, before the usual little the surroundings are a sequence of colourful with the greatest flow volume in Europe!”). doubts, I could reach the bus station some silent and lazy today, as absorbed in some sort experience. Likely it won’t be your ultimate miracle that I have got used to over the years and blossoming vegetation, gashing waters, And yet, in spite of its lack of aesthetic value, Thanks to Trex (www.bustravel.is ) for Reykja- fifteen minutes early, enough to settle the of uneasy wait. There is little traffic, which is Icelandic adventure, or the most spectacular occurs: the wilderness slowly takes over, painful and mirror-like ponds. As the path approa- every summer the banks of Dettifoss enjoy vík-Ásbyrgi transportation

Researchers’ Night - for the whole family Friday 28. September Open house 17:00-21:00 at Reykjavík Art Museum, Tryggvagötu 17. Cappuccino + bagle + yoghurt = 650 kr. 16_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_FEATURE/FREE TRADE REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_INFO_ISSUE 15_2007

Organ –September 26 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri –September 21

Elíza Release Concert Megas & Senuþjófarnir in Concert

On Wednesday, September 26, pop Eliza, who sings and plays the Megas and Senuþjófarnir will be Sigurður Guðmundsson on bass, veteran Elíza Geirsdóttir Newman will violin, will be accompanied by a new playing a concert in Akureyri on Fri- Mikael Svensson on keyboard, and hold a release-party and concert to band, consisting of Guðmundur Pé- day, September 21 as part of their Nils Olof Törnqvist on drums, as well celebrate her first solo album, Empire tursson on guitar, Birgir Baldursson short Icelandic tour. Megas and the as Guðmundur Pétursson on guitar. Fall. This will be Eliza’s first concert in on drums, Jakob Smári Magnússon band will be playing songs off their Only 150 tickets available. Iceland in approximately three years. on bass, and Arndís Hreiðarsdóttir on newly released record, Frágangur, Eliza established the all-female Kol- piano and glockenspiel. Mammút will Megas’ first record in six years, and Græni Hatturinn, rassa Krókríðandi at 16 and has later open up the show. Concert starts at the first he has done with the band Hafnarstræti 96, Akureyri been known as Bellatrix, a band that 21:00, 1000 ISK in. in seven years, as well as older Me- went on to win Músíktilraunir, an an- gas classics. Senuþjófarnir consist of nual Icelandic battle of the bands that Organ, Hafnarstræti 1-3, back alley, the four members of Hjálmar, Guð- has been the launch pad for many 101 Reykjavík mundur Kristinn Jónsson on guitar, TICKETS AT of the country’s biggest names in music.

Around Town – Sept 27 - Oct 5 Grettir Kabaret 2007

In collaboration with this year’s Reykja- the world. Every morning during the – The GrettirKabaret begins September vík International Film Festival, the Kino Kino Kabaret, a meeting and brainstorm 27 at 5 pm at Café Hressó. Registration movement will offer aspiring artists an session takes place at the Kinolab. Local on site. i8 – Sep 13 - Oct 27 / Kjarvalsstaðir Sep 8 - Nov 4 opportunity to partake in a Kino Kaba- Directors, Actors and Musicians are in- – September 28 - The first Kabaret be- ret, titled, Grettir Kabaret 2007. vited to join the meetings and partici- gins at 9 am. Kino first started in Montreal on pate in the Kabaret. Teams are formed – September 29 - The first GrettirKaba- Gallerí Gel – Sep 21 - Oct 5 Eggert Pétursson – Two Exhibitions Reykjavík Museum of Photography – Sept 15 - Nov 25 January 1999 when two friends decided and then off they go for the day The ret screening at 9 pm. Location: Nordic to produce an original short film every material is decided, produces, shot, ed- House, The Icelandic painter Eggert Péturs- than two years of work, where Iceland’s month until the end of the year. 200 ited and screened with in 48 hours. – October 1 - Concert: Mr. Silla & Mon- The Solars System of the Elves son, receiver of the 2006 Carnegie Art short-lived summer is described in three “Daagblaðið Víísir!” short films later, Kino was born. Inspired The Kinolab is the core of the Kabaret. goose, Steintryggur and Gabriel Braun. Award’s, 2nd prize is currently exhibit- different ways through the most deli- by kinè, a Greek word meaning “move- It requires a wide space, provided by the – October 2 - The second Kabaret be- Photography exhibition by Danish pho- The process makes it possible to create ing in two locations in Reykjavík. cate Icelandic flora. Reykjavík Art Mu- “Dagblaðið Víísir! 1960-200” or and country that takes center stage. country and includes photographs ment,” Kino works around the concepts festival, where the Kino Kabaret TEAM gins at 9 am. tographer Kim Linnet. The exhibtiotion panoramic images that shows the entire Petursson’s subject is the delicate Icelan- seum – Kjarvalsstaðir hosts a retrospec- Afternoon Press Photography in Ice- The exhibit also explores the ever from the afternoon papers Vísir ‘independence’ and ‘freedom of expres- can set up their headquarters with all – October 3 - The second Kabaret consists of nine big photographs, each surroundings, including the ground and dic flora. Displayed in conceptual paint- tive exhibition, featuring more than 50 land is the newest exhibit at the Rey- moving eye of the photojournalist, (1961 – 1981), Dagblaðið (1975 sion’. Its mission is to gather artists who of the production necessaries, such as screening 9 pm. Location: Organ. one 100cm x 512cm in size. The photos sky, from the place where the photos ings, rather than decorative, his unique works, some of which have never been kjavík Museum of Photography. The living day to day eager to capture – 1981), and DV (1981 – 2002). believe that the importance of a cin- video and audio equipment, lights, edit- – October 4 - The third and final Kaba- are taken in Reykjavik, on Snæfellsness where taken. Portraying the world this paintings of the minute tundra flowers exhibited before. name is taken from the shouts of the the next moment that will be of The collection also includes paper ematographic work does not rest solely ing stations, food, coffee, enthusiasm, ret begins at 9 am. and on Reykjanes. The circular form of way of makes us rediscover the beauty of Iceland’s seemingly barren landscape street-vender paperboys, advertising importance to the nation. copies of the newspapers as well on the amount of its production budget. encouragement and love. – October 5 - The third and final Kaba- the photographs symbolizes nine plan- and the details in our surroundings and reveal the universe within. Abstract at a i8, Klapparstígur 33, 101 Reykjavík the daily news. The exhibit features The exhibit features about 150 as films from the first production Its motto - “Do well with nothing, do Kinolab is also a production meet- ret screening 9 pm. Location: Nordic ets that has always been here, but are you will want to go closer and examine distance, at close inspection his canvas- tel.: 551 3666, www.i8.is photographs published in newspa- photographs all from the archives of year of Fréttablaðið in 2001. Now better with little and do it now!” ing space. It should easily be accessible House. normally hidden; just like the elves of the pictures, searching for details and es are hyper-realistic—an infinite regres- pers throughout Iceland over the 365, which the Reykjavík Museum on display through November 25. Kino Kabaret is a production labo- to the Kino Kabaret team as well as any Iceland. landmarks that you know are there. sion of painstaking brush detail creating Reykjavík Art Museum - Kjarvalsstaðir past four decades, highlighting the of Photography took over conser- ratory based within the festival’s setting, curious festival goer and organiser, who For further info, consult www.riff.is and Each photograph consists of more each petal, stem, and leaf. Flókagötu, 105 Reykjavík, role of photojournalism on relating vation of last year. The collection is The Reykjavík Museum of Photo- where films are created by participating want to see the Kinoïtes in action. www.kino00.com. than 50 different digital images that are Galleri Gel, Hverfisgata 33 Pétursson will be exhibiting 100 paint- tel.: 517 1290 major events in our lives, and telling one of the biggest privately owned graphy, Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, Kinoïtes (Kino members) from around glued together with a special software. 101 Reykjavík, tel.: 551 7733 ings at i8 gallery, the fruits of more www.listasafnreykjavikur.is stories about the people, places, collection of photographs in the 6th floor

If you would like to be included Sat 22.09 22:00 Gordon Riots celebrate Hlemmur Sat 22.09 21:00 Bacon Live Support Playing reggae, country and occasio- www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Surtsey – Genesis tan Guðjónsson Thu.–Fri. 11–17 Jul 21–Oct 10 in the Grapevine listings, free of release of new album 21.09 16:30 Retro Stefson Unit and Guests nally hosting live gigs on weekdays, Artótek The exhibition traces the emergence Gallery Gel Sat.–Sun. 13–16 Alas-Nature! charge, contact the Grapevine by Sat 22.09 00:00 DJ Master Hressó Wed 26.09 21:00 Mammút (live) Sirkus’s veteran DJs keep the party Tryggvagata 15 and evolution of the island Surtsey Hverfisgata 37 www.gerduberg.is The National Gallery of Iceland’s sum- email at [email protected]. Fri 28.09 00:00 DJ Sesar Austurstræti 20 Wed 26.09 22:00 Eliza (live) Album going till late on weekends. Mon. 10–21, Tue.–Thu. 10–19, Fri. until the present day and predicts its Mon.–Fri. 13–18 Sep 22–Nov 11 mer exhibition featuring works by more Sat 29.09 23:00 “Playing Requests” Here, troubadours play sing-alongs Release concert (1000ISK) Fri 21.09 23:00 DJ Tóti Trans 11–19, Sat. and Sun. 13–17 geographical and ecological develop- Sat. 11–16 Paintings by Guðmunda S. Gunnars- than 50 artists, including High Plane Music veterans of music cover everything until midnight, followed by DJs playing Thu 27.09 21:00 Benny Crepo’s Gang Sat 22.09 23:00 DJ Skeletor www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek ment over the next 120 years. Sun. 14–16 dóttir by Katrín Sigurðardóttir. Her work is Bar 11 from Britney to the Beatles. whatever the crowd is aching for at and Royal Fortune Wed 26.09 22:00 DJ Egner Sep 17–Oct 14 Dwarf Gallery www.myspace.com/gallerigel i8 Gallery a widely acclaimed installation for its Laugavegur 11 Café Cultura the time. Sat 29.09 22:00 Metro Area (USA) Thu 27.09 22:00 DJ Chuck Exhibition: Grundarstígur 21 Sep 21–Oct 12 Klapparstígur 33 revolutionary viewpoint in which the A popular hangout spot for Reykjavík’s Hverfisgata 18 Fri 21.09 22:00 Troubadours Public Thu 4.10 21:00 Monitor Concert Fri 28.09 23:00 DJ Maggi Legó The work of Þóra Sigurðardóttir Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat. 18–20 “Dulin Himintungl Álfanna” photo Tue.–Fri. 11–17 landscape is laid out horizontally on a rockers and their young idolaters with Music from the world’s four corners. Fri 21.09 00:00 DJ Bjarni Fri 5.09 22:00 Lee Hazelwood Tribute Sat 29.09 23:00 DJ Gísli Galdur ASÍ Art Museum www.this.is/birta exhibition. Sat. 13–17 and by appointment table. DJs playing classic rock‘n’roll hits. Fri 21.09 23:00 DJ Lupin Sat 22.09 22:00 Troubadours Alexander night Wed 3.1022:00 DJ Jonni Freyjugata 41 Current exhibition: The exhibition consists of nine big www.i8.is The National Museum Fri 21.09 23:00 DJ Gulli Ósóma Sat 22.09 22:00 Salsa Night and Örvar Sat 6.10 22:00 Skátar and Bloodgroup Thu 4.10 22:00 DJ Unnur Andrea feat. Tue.–Sun. 13–17 Smooth Spaces photographs, each photograph being Sep 13–Oct 27 Suðurgata 41 Sat 22.09 23:00 DJ Biggi Monitor Fri 28.09 23:00 DJ Kristín Sat 22.09 00:00 DJ Barni Prikið Tóti Trans Free Entrance Exhibition by Gunndís Ýr Finnbogadót- 100cm x 512cm in size. They are taken Eggert Pétursson exhibition Open daily 10–17 Fri 28.09 23:00 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Sat 29.09 23:00 DJ Ernir Thu 27.09 22:00 Troubadours Public Bankastræti 12 Fri 5.09 23:00 DJ Mr. White Sep 29 and onwards tir in Reykjavík, on Snæfellsness and on Living Art Museum www.natmus.is/ Sat 29.09 23:00 DJ Gulli Ósóma Café Paris Fri 28.09 22:00 Troubadours Böddi and Fri 21.09 22:00 Indigo (live) Sat 6.10 23:00 Lazershow Rubbish Gallery Ágúst Reykjanes. Due to their circular nature, Laugavegur 26 Permanent exhibition: Fri 5.09 23:00 DJ Biggi Monitor Austurstræti 14 Danni Fri 21.0900:00 DJ Maggi Lego Tjarnarbíó Magnús Tómasson exhibition. A jour- Baldursgata 12 the photographs symbolize nine plan- Wed., Fri.–Sun. 13–17 The Making of a Nation Sat 6.10 23:00 DJ Óli Dóri Weapons Fri 21.09 22:00 DJ Börkur / DJ Lucky Fri 28.09 00:00 DJ Maggi Sat 22.09 00:00 DJ Gulli Ósóma Tjarnargötu 12 ney through his sketchbooks. Wed.–Sat. 12–17 ets – planets that have always been Thu. 13–22 Sep 9–Jan 27 Barinn Sat 22.09 22:00 DJ Börkur / DJ Lucky Sat 29.09 22:00 Jazz band Tepokinn Wed 26.09 22:00 DJ Biggi Monitor Tue 2.10 20:00 Skátar, Reykjavík!, Me, Auga fyrir Auga www.galleriagust.is here, but are normally hidden www.nylo.is/ Extraordinary Child Laugavegur 22 Fri 28.09 22:00 DJ Börkur / DJ Lucky plays Thu 27.09 22:00 DJ Andri Slumbering Napoleon and more. Hverfisgata 35 Aug 29–Sep 22 Gallery Tukt Oct 6–Nov 4 Photographs by Mary Ellen Mark and Vibrant late-night party place and a Sat 29.09 22:00 DJ Börkur / DJ Lucky Sat 29.09 00:00 DJ Maggi Fri 28.09 22:00 Kokteilbandið (live) TÞM - Hellirinn Open Thu.–Fri. 15–19, Sat.–Sun. 14–17 Fenómena Pósthússtræti 3–5 Ragnar Kjartansson Ívar Brynhólfsson, artwork by students nice roomy bistro during the day. Fri 5.09 22:00 DJ Börkur / DJ Lucky Fri 5.10 22:00 Troubadours Alexander Fri 28.0900:00 DJ Gísli Galdur Hólmaslóð 2 Current exhibition: Opening exhibition: Ásdís Sif Gun- www.hitthusid.is We have been told that this exhibi- in Öskjuhlíðaskóli and Safamýrarskóli, Fri 21.09 23:00 DJ Casanova (1st floor) Sat 6.10 22:00 DJ Börkur / DJ Lucky and Örvar Sat 29.09 22:00 DJ Rósa Fri 21.09 20:00 Bands; Mara, Carte “Red Square” Photographs from narsdóttir and Rakel Bernie. Drawings, Sep 1–Sep 15 tion will be awesome. It will be Mr. and a documentary by filmmaker Mar- Fri 21.09 23:00 DJ Muffin (2nd floor) Fríkirkjan Fri 5.10 00:00 DJ Bjarni Q-Bar Moctem, Gone Postal and Diabolus Calcutta photographs, video-art and 3D. The Traveller Kjartansson’s largest solo exhibition tin Bell. Sat 22.09 23:00 DJ Gísli Galdur (1st Laufásvegur 13 Sat 6.10 22:00 Troubadours Public Ingólfsstræti 3 play live. by Christopher Taylor Sep 29–Nov 10 Photographs by Viktor Pétur Hannes- to date and is done in co-op with the May 19–Sep 30 floor) Fri 5.10 Danielson in concert (2500 ISK, Sat 6.10 00:00 DJ Bjarni Stylish and vibrant gay / straight- Vegamót The Einar Jónsson Museum Hlutlaus á Hreyfingu son. Hannesson travelled Europe for Austrian museum TBA21 Ways in Between Sat 22.09 23:00 DJ Ernir (2nd floor) midi.is) NASA friendly bar and party venue. Cosy Vegamótastíg 4 Eiríksgata Exhibition: Hulda Stefánsdóttir three months this summer and exhibits The Lost Horse Gallery Andrá exhibition: Installations by Guðb- Fri 28.09 23:00 DJ TATATA (1st floor) Gaukurinn by Austurvöllur on weekdays and full of surprises on Fri 21.09 22:00 DJ Simmi Tue.–Sun. 14–17 Gallery Crush his travel story with photos and a writ- Skólastræti 1 jörg Lind Jónsdóttir, Guðrún Kristjáns- Fri 28.09 23:00 DJ DJ Míó (2nd floor) Tryggvagata 22 Fri 21.09 21:00 Bands Jeff Who?, Ölvis weekends. Sat 22.09 22:00 DJ Danni Deluxe www.skulptur.is Laugavegur 28 ten diary. www.this.is/subaqua/losthorse.html dóttir and Kristín Jónsdóttir. Sat 29.09 23:00 DJ Rósa (1st floor) Hosts mostly cover bands on week- and Dikta play live (500ISK) Fri 21.09 23:00 DJ Beauty and the beats Thu 27.09 22:00 DJ Steinar Lár Permanent exhibition: Current exhibition: Gallery Turpentine Current exhibition: The Nordic House Sat 29.09 23:00 DJ Tweak (plugg’d) ends, playing anything from Britney to Sat 22.09 23:00 Irish folk rock band Thu 27.09 23:00 DJ Manny Fri 28.09 22:00 DJ Benni B Ruff The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Exhibition featuring artworks by graph- Ingólfsstræti 5 Gallery Opening Exhibition Sturlugata 5 (2nd floor) the Beatles. On weekdays, odds are Papar (1500ISK) Fri 28.09 23:00 DJ De La Rosa Sat 29.09 22:00 DJ Simmi The Culture House ic designer Hólmsteinn Kristjánsson. Tue.–Fri. 12–18 Paintings, sculptures and videos by Tue.–Sun. 12–17 Thu 4.10 22:00 Breakbeat you’ll find local bands playing their Sat 6.10 23:00 Legendary pop band Sat 29.09 23:00 DJ Ási Pjási Thu 4.10 22:00 DJ Símon Hverfisgata 15 Gallery Fold Sat. 11–16 Gabriella Friðriksdóttir, Tómas Magnús- www.nordice.is/ Fri 5.09 23:00 DJ Peter Parkar (1st floor) original material. Stuðmenn (1500ISK) Wed 03.10 22:00 DJ Beatur Fri 5.09 22:00 DJ Danni Deluxe Open daily 11–17 Rauðarárstígur 14–16 www.turpentine.is son, Jón Sæmundur, Davíð Örn, Hafste- The Numismatic Museum Fri 5.09 23:00 DJ Ernir (2nd floor) Fri 21.09 22:00 Cover band Silfur plays Organ Thu 04.10 22:00 DJ Þórir Sat 6.10 22:00 DJ Dóri www.thjodmenning.is Mon.–Fri. 10–18 Sep 28–Oct 13 inn and Michael Guðmundsson. Kalkofnsvegur 1 Sat 6.10 23:00 DJ Shaft (1st floor) Sat 22.09 22:00 Brain Police + Guests Hafnarstræti 1-3 Fri 05.10 20:00 Pre-Halloween party Permanent exhibitions: Sat. 11–16 Paintings by Pétur Thomsen The National Gallery of Iceland Open Mon.–Fri. 13:30–15:30. Café Amsterdam Fri 28.09 22:00 Live bands; Dr. Spock, Fri 21.09 21:00 GUS GUS (live) Sat 06.10 23:00 DJ Beauty and the Museums & Galleries Medieval Manuscripts; The National Sun. 14–16 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Fríkirkjuvegur Free admittance. Hafnarstræti 5 Vicky Pollard, Cliff Calvin and Perfect (3500ISK) tickets available at 12 Tónar beats 101 Gallery Museum – as it was; The Library Room; www.myndlist.is Gerðuberg 3–5 Tue.–Sun. 11–17 Permanent exhibition: Fri 21.09 22:00 Perfect Disorder Disorder. record shop Sirkus Hverfisgata 18 The Road to Zion; Berlin Excursion Current exhibition: Mon.–Thu. 11–17 Free Entrance The Central Bank of Iceland and the Fri 21.09 00:00 DJ Master Hlemmur Bus Terminal Fri 21.09 02:00 DJ Andrés Klapparstígur 30 Thu.–Sat. 14–17 and by appointment Current exhibition: Exhibition featuring the works of Kjar- Wed. 11–21 www.listasafn.is National Museum of Iceland jointly B4_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 15_2007_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 15_2007_LISTINGS_B5 operate a numismatic collection con- Open Tue.–Sun. 11–17 Treesculptures by Aðalheiður S. Eyste- www.daligallery.blogspot.com 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 sisting of Icelandic notes and coins. www.sjominjasafn.is insdóttir Current exhibition: Sambíóin, Álfabakki 8 Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Current exhibition: Gljúfrasteinn Sunna Sigfríðardóttir exhibition 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Aðalstræti 16 Trawlers in Iceland – Halldór Laxness Museum GalleriBOX Sambíóin, Kringlan 4-12 Open daily 10–17 Reykjavík Museum 270 Mosfellsbær Kaupvangstræti 10, Akureyri 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 Permanent exhibition: Kistuhylur 4 Open daily except Mondays from www.galleribox.blogspot.com Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorg The Settlement Exhibition Open daily from 10–17 10–17. 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 Reykjavík Art Museum www.arbaejarsafn.is Kópavogur Art Museum Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Permanent exhibition: – Gerðarsafn 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 Museum Objects from Reykjavík cultural history. Hamraborg, Kópavogur Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 Sigtún The Reykjavík Museum Open daily 11–17 except Mondays 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 www.gljufrasteinn.is Open daily 10–16 of Photography www.gerdarsafn.is Admission ticket is valid for three days Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor The Icelandic Museum of Design RIFF in all three museums. Weekdays 12–19 and Applied Art Films Sep 27–Oct 7 This year, RIFF’s pro- Free entrance every Thursday. Sat.–Sun. 13–17 Lyngás 7–9, 121 Garðabær Hairspray Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, gramme consists of nearly one hundred www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Free Entrance Opening hours: Tues.–Fri. 14–18; Sat. Laugarásbíó films. For more info see pick or go to Mar 31–Dec 31 www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is and Sun. 16–18. Brettin Upp Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, www.riff.is Folk Tales Aug 30–Oct 24 www.mudesa.org Regnboginn An exhibition of works by Icelandic The Lost Children of Afghanistan Exhibitions devoted to Icelandic design. Veðramót Smárabíó, Háskólabíó, Events draughtsmen who took on the task Photographs by Dante The Icelandic Settlement Centre Regnboginn Open House at the of illustrating folk tales from the oral Sep 15–Nov 25 Brákarbraut 1–15, Borgarnes Rush Hour 3 Smárabíó Intercultural Centre tradition. Dagblaðið Víísir! / Víísir Newspaper! Opening hours: May to Sep 10–20; Sep Knocked Up Smárabíó, Sambíóin 07.09 Every Friday night, the Apr 2–Dec 31 Press photography in Iceland from to May 11–17. Álfabakka, Laugarásbíó Intercultural centre plays host to an The Shape of Life 1960 to 2000. www.landnam.is Simpsons the Movie Smárabíó, intercultural meeting. The concept A new retrospective of the works by Safn Permanent exhibitions: Regnboginn is to bring foreigners and Icelanders Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition Laugavegur 37 The Settlement of Iceland: The Saga of Vacancy Smárabíó, Regnboginn together, and to give them the focuses on abstract works from 1945 Wed.–Fri. 14–18 Egill Skalla-Grímsson Mr. Brooks Sambíóin Álfabakka, opportunity to get to know other onwards. Sat.–Sun. 14–17 Suðsuðvestur Sambíóin Kringlunni people and to share experiences. The Reykjavík Art Museum Free Entrance Hafnargata 22, Keflavík Astrópía Sambíóin Álfabakka, Sam- meetings feature plenty of activities – Hafnarhús www.safn.is Thu.–Fri. 16–18 bíóin Kringlunni, Háskólabíó that will allow the attendees to stir Tryggvagata 17 May 19–Oct 20 Sat.–Sun. 14–17 Bratz The Movie Sambíóin Álfa- things up into a nice cultural broth. Open daily 10–17 Museum of the Surface / Desire Archive www.sudsudvestur.is bakka, Sambíóin Kringlunni Entrance is free. Aug 31–Oct 21 / Decay Complex Sep 1–Oct 7 Disturbia Sambíóin Álfabakka, The Intercultural Centre, Hverfisgata 18 The Icelandic Love Corporation retro- Unnar Örn J. Auðarson exhibition Coup d’État Laugarásbíó Young people with a foreign An Everyday Extraordinary spective exhibition Sep 1–Oct 7 Unnar Örn Auðarson Jónasson exhibi- Ratatouille Sambíóin Álfabakka background Aug 31–Oct 21 Sigurður Guðjónsson, Huginn Þór tion The Bourne Ultimatum Háskóla- The discussion meeting will be in D Gallery Arason and Tony Trehy exhibition Vatnasafn / Library of Water bíó, Sambíóin Kringlunni, Laugarásbíó Menntaskólinn við Hamrahlíð’s Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Photo by Mary Ellen Mark Jóhannes Atli Hinriksson exhibition. Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Bókhlöðustígur 17, 340 Stykkishólmur License to Wed Sambíóin Kringlun- conference room the 24th of Aug 31–Dec31 Laugarnestangi 70 www.libraryofwater.is ni September 2007, from 8:30 till 12:30 The Erró Collection Open Tue.–Sun. 14–17 Open daily from 11–17. Transformers Sambíóin Kringlunni For those interested in taking part, “Every time she saw me she laughed,” ed photographing homeless youths the pupils at Öskjuhlíðarskóli. Paintings by Erró Permanent exhibition: Permanent exhibition: Sicko Regnboginn please notify Anh-Dao by telephone says Mary Ellen Mark smiling at one in Seattle, brothels in Mumbai, and According to Mark, one of the 22 Sep at 13:00 Works of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson Roni Horn installation. She has replaced Superbad (Sept 28) 821-2523 or via email ahdao.tran@ of her large framed black and white the Indian Circus. Her latest work is goals of the exhibit and of Margrét Artist’s Talk Start Art / Art Shop stacks of books with glass columns Death at a Funeral (Sept 28) reykjavik.is. FÍNL (Future in a new photographs hanging in the National another raw divulge into the human Hallgrímsdóttir, director of the Na- Members of the Icelandic Love Cor- Laugavegur 12b containing water gathered from Hot Rod (Sept 28) country) is a project meant to help Museum gallery. “I guess she found condition, into a world that Mark tional Museum who worked closely poration discuss their work and career www.startart.is Iceland’s glaciers and glacial rivers. 3:10 to Yuma (Sept 28) young people of foreign descent to me pretty funny.” neither glorifies nor dramatises. with Mark on the project, is to raise along with poet and composer Sjón Sep 1–Sep 28 Sandgerði Museum No Reservations (Sept 28) educate themselves, organise their Mark’s latest photographic exhi- “This little girl, who is very pro- awareness of the kids and to encour- and curator Fee Quay. Anna María Sigurjónsdóttir and Gerðavegur 1, Sandgerði. lives and become active members bition, titled “Extraordinary Child,” foundly disabled, she recognised age that a new communal school Reykjavík Art Museum Ástríður Ólafsdóttir exhibition Until Feb 7, 2008 Movie Theatres of Icelandic society. The discussion or “Undrabörn,” is a look at the lives her picture. She came and she went with improved facilities be built. Later – Kjarvalsstaðir Thorvaldsen Bar Polar Adventures Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 meeting is part of meeting this goal. of disabled children in Iceland. Mark, straight to her picture. The first thing that day, at the exhibit’s opening Flókagata Austurstæti 8-10 Exhibition on the life and work of the 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 Menntaskólinn við Hamrahlíð, an American-born award-winning I learned is that you never underes- reception, the director of the Board Open Daily 10–17 www.thorvaldsen.is French polar explorer, scientist and doc- Háskólabíó, Hagatorg Hamrahlíð 10 105 Reykjavík photographer and photojournalist, timate, no matter how seriously or of Education, Júlíus Vífill Ingvarsson, Sep 8–Dec 31 Aug 28–Sept 28 tor Jean-Baptiste Charcot. 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 spent six-weeks in the fall and winter how profoundly disabled these kids announced that a new school would Eggert Pétursson – Retrospective Universe Jónas Viðar Gallery Laugarásbíó, Laugarás of 2006–2007 at Öskjuhlíðarskóli are, there’s a lot they understand and be built in the near future that would Architecture at Eye Level Paintings by Mæja Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 and Safamýrarskóli schools and the you can’t take it for granted.” combine the efforts of Öskjuhlíðar- Sep 8–Nov 4 Fri.–Sat. 13–18 Smárabíó, Smáralind Lyngás daycare centre for the disa- Walking around her exhibition skóli and Safamýrarskóli. Eggert Pétursson – Retrospective Outside Reykjavík www.jvs.is/jvgallery.htm bled, spending full days with the Mark bears a delightful look of con- “I think I have to show the happy Paintings by Eggert Pétursson, an Ice- Skaftfell Akureyri Art Museum kids and often accompanying them tentment on her face, looking at moments but I also have to show the landic artist famed for his meticulous Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri home. every photograph as though greeting moments of real pain,” says Mark. depictions of flowers. www.skaftfell.is Tue.–Sun. 12–17 Looking for tickets to events, cinemas, “I have a couple of pictures of old friends. The photographs show “We try to kind of balance it so if Sep 8–Oct 14 Aug 11–Nov 11 www.listasafn.akureyri.is theatres, or concerts? her,” Mark continues, walking away the children in their everyday envi- you see a kid crying you also see Sculptures by Helgi Gíslason. The exhi- A group exhibition featuring works by Aug 25 – Oct 14 from the picture of the smiling girl, ronments: eating, swimming, playing another picture of another side to bition features new works of bas-relief. Erla Þórarinsdóttir, Hulda Hákon, Jón Sjónlist 2007 / Icelandic Visual Art titled Íris who always laughed when in the snow, moments covering a their personality where they’re laugh- Sep 15–Dec 31 Óskar and Steingrímur Eyfjörð Exhibition displaying artworks by six Check www.midi.is for availability. she saw my camera. “I like to show full range of emotions, yet strung ing. Like Bragi here,” she says and Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key Works Hafnarborg artists and art-groups nominated for the different moods of the children together by a quality of distinct hu- stops in front of another beautifully Paintings by Jóhannes S. Kjarval Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður the Icelandic Visual Art Award (Sjónlist) because they’re just like every child. manness. simple photograph. “He really laughs 21 Oct at 15:00 Mon.–Sun. 11–17 this year. These are Birgir Andrés- They have moods; they’re happy, Accompanying Mark’s work are if someone falls down.” Guided Tour – Meditation on Furniture www.hafnarborg.is son, Hekla Dögg Jónsdóttir, Hrafnkell they cry, they’re mischievous, they’re photographs of the bare school en- Architect Óli Jóhann Ásmundsson joins Sep 13–Oct 7 Sigurðsson, Nikita, Studio Grandi and angelic, many different things. But vironment by Ívar Brynjólfsson, select Extraordinary Child will be on display a guided tour of the exhibition and “Photographs” Össur hf. these kids are mainly angelic. They’re artwork by the school’s pupils, as well at the National Museum of Iceland discusses his work. Photos by American artist Denis Masi DaLí Gallery really so sweet. And pure, actual- as a documentary made by Mark’s through to January 27, 2008. For Reykjavík Maritime Museum Sep 13–Oct 7 Brekkugata 9, Akureyri ly.” husband Martin Bell about the life more information visit www.thjod- Grandagarður 8 “Wait” Mon.–Sat. 14–18 Mark’s past projects have includ- of Alexander Víðar Pálsson, one of minjasafn.is

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I Adapt Soundspell Chainlike Burden An Ode to the Umbrella

Chainlike Burden is the third LP release from the Ice- Soundspell is made up of five boys not old enough to landic hardcore outfit I Adapt. The band’s earlier re- buy alcohol, the oldest one at 18 years old. On their leases are long since unavailable and in great demand. debut, counting 10 songs, they demonstrate unusual On Chainlike Burden, the band moves from the more musicianship for such youngsters. The songs are excel- traditional high-octane hardcore, and slows down the lent inde music a la Coldplay or Keane with a soft Reykjavík International Film Festival Preview pace a bit, to create a slower and far heavier record piano playing a big part, but it is the angelic voice of then the band’s first two albums. Still, it is the band’s singer Alexander Briem that makes this stand out from most consistent and solid offering, full of crunching the average brit-pop sounding bands. The production Viking feasts every night The fourth annual Reykjavík International Film tival’s extensive program. It turned to be even one fateful Sunday night in 1980. But this is is poetic, religious and brimming with subtle energy and the occasional sing-along. The recording is good and the packaging professional. In fact this Festival will take place September 27 – Octo- more challenging than getting five people to also the story of Deborah Curtis, the woman allusions to Dickens and Shakespeare. Iraq process took its time, and the band has made good does not sound like a debut at all, but instead a mature - live entertainment ber 7. Founded in 2004 by a group of film agree on pizza topping, but this is what we he loved and betrayed, and what she had in Fragments received an Academy Award use of it. The production is excellent, although I believe work of art. A few of these songs will definitely make enthusiasts and professionals with the goal of came up with. Obviously, it would be wise to to go through. The screenplay is based on nomination as best documentary of 2007, won the vocals should have been higher in the mix. The lyr- it into daytime radio. Soundspell play Airwaves in Oc- • Hotel creating an annual international film festival consult the more extensive program available her memoir. Samantha Morton is stunning in several awards at the Sundance Film Festival ics are introversive and dark, which creates a sombre tober. A sure thing to check out. Recommended. PH • Restaurants in Reykjavik, RIFF has become the one of the on the festival’s web page, www.riff.is. the role of Deborah. Directed by renowned and the Grand Jury Prize at the Full Frame atmosphere. The highlights are Sinking Ship, a slow main cultural events in Iceland, with last year’s photographer and music video director Anton Documentary Film Festival. and emotional bone crusher and Subject to Change, a • Souveniers guests exceeding 15,000 people. Sigur Rós – Heima Corbijn, who approaches the subject with rare powerful screamfest for the kids. Solid stuff. SBB In July 2006, musical group Sigur Rós began subtlety. Corbijn worked as a photographer Shotgun Stories (Above, right) Dimitri Eipides, programmer for the Toronto an unexpected two week tour around Iceland. and photographed Joy Division while the group The backdrop of this modern minimalist West- and Montreal Film Festivals as well as the Thes- The tour marked the end of a 13 month world was active. His experience makes for a realistic ern are the cotton fields and back roads of saloniki Festival in Greece, was brought on tour in support of their fourth album Takk... recreation of the late seventies and the aura Southeast Arkansas, but brothers Son, Boy and board to supervise the film selection in 2005, Once details of the tour were available it was surrounding the group at that time. Control Kid could just as well be born out of the old and has worked with the festival since. This decided to film all of the tour’s concerts, the is his first full length feature film. Icelandic sagas. Their father was a violent drunk year’s festival selection features nearly 100 journey itself, the Icelandic people and Iceland’s who left his family without even bothering to titles from over 30 countries, with a focus on nature in order to make a documentary. The Grandhotel give the boys proper names. They grew up in new cinema. The festival’s comepetive category footage has now become Sigur Rós – Heima, This latest of Ondricek’s films keeps up the a bad relationship with their mother and had For booking and is only open for first or second features from a 94 minute documentary directed by Denni tradition of mixing together excessive humour, no relationship with the father, who forgot further information: directors who compete for the Golden Puffin. Karlsson. The world premiere of Heima will strong characters, realistic material and a his former life, sobered up, became a devout Tel.: +354 565-1213 Every year, the RIFF program has included films open this year’s on September 27. unique style. The setting is an old hotel high Christian, started another family and had four www.vikingvillage.is on human rights issues. This year, the category in the mountains where Vlasta Fleischman new sons who all got fine names. The film [email protected] will be dedicated to films on the situation in Helvetica works as a guard. He is an amateur meteo- begins just after the father dies. When the Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur Iraq and panel discussions will be hosted in rela- The Helvetica typeface should be familiar to rologist and fantasises about flying away from lost boys show up for the funeral to the latent tion to the screenings. The festival’s program anyone who has ever typed on a computer. In the hotel and thus escaping from his own life. hostility of their half-brothers, past hatred boils Magni Jan Mayen includes an extensive array of documentaries fact, it should be familiar to anyone who has Obsessed with the weather, he is constructing anew and an old-fashioned tale of revenge, Magni So Much Better Than Your Normal Life and special attention will be directed to cinema ever lived in a city, watched TV, read the papers. his own hot air balloon in order to follow his obligation and honour is unleashed. in Spain. 25 years ago, German film director Helvetica is the most popular typeface in the dreams. The film revolves around different Magni is blessed with a great voice and he is a very Jan Mayen came out in late 2003 with an outright Rainer Werner Fassbinder took his own life at world and celebrates its 50th anniversary this characters living in or working at the hotel, Metamorphosis presentable guitar player. Unfortunately, he elects for buoyant and breakable, yet catchy and melodic, self- the age of 37 and a special Fassbinder retro- year. For this occasion, director Gary Hustwit connecting in one way or another through According to medical statistics from the year a take-no-chances, rather than a take-no-prisoners, titled EP. 2004 brought to light their debut LP, an al- spective is scheduled to celebrate his work, decided to make an independent documentary the protagonist. Grandhotel is a film that must 2003, an average of one in 4,600 people in approach, so this is a rather uninspired, overproduced bum that shook many trees and even caught the at- in cooperation with the Goethe Institut in about the origin, rise and world domination be seen on a large screen, as the hotel itself, China wants to have a sex change, which is paint-by-the-numbers pop-rock effort that sounds tention of city counsellor Gísli Marteinn Baldursson. Copenhagen. of Helvetica. The film, which is both visually the surroundings and last but not least the about 280,000 people. With state owned hos- professional but offers little of substance. In through “So Much Better than Your Normal Life” displays the Finnish director Aki Kaurismäki will accept beautiful, thought-provoking and entertaining, magnificent shots of the weather are among pitals in big cities offering private sex change one ear, out the other, type of stuff. The tender ballad quartet’s development gracefully from being a gleeful RIFF’s 2007 Creatice Excellency award. In his was an immediate hit and has been screening the film’s strongest factors. operations since 1986, about 400 people in If I Promised You the World, which has been in con- tour de force to a grown up entity that contains its celebration, RIFF will screen his “Finland-tril- at events and festivals the world over. The film China have made this dream come true. Al- stant air-play the last months, and a completely bite- youth elegantly, not only as a band but as individu- ogy” consisting of Drifting Clouds (1996), is full of lively interviews with designers and Iraq in Fragments though they can officially change the sex on less version of Radiohead’s Creep are good examples als. Their biggest growth might be the voice of singer the Oscar nominated The Man Without a revolutionaries who analyse and elaborate on A triptych of life in a war-ridden country. In their ID cards, they still face immense pressures of his soft and safe approach. Most of the songs are Valgeir Gestsson. The guitar work brings to mind the Past (2002), and Lights in the Dusk (2006). how Helvetica has become synonymous with the first part we follow an 11-year-old or- from society and tradition. Their greatest desire Magni’s own, apart from two covers and two older duelling chemistry of Sister-era Sonic Youth and even Another guest at the festival this year will be modern life and surrounds us on all sides. phaned garage worker in Baghdad who fears is to be understood. This documentary is about songs from his earlier band, Shape. The highlight of Thin Lizzy’s Gorham and Robertson with a murky twist Czech director David Ondricek but his films the world he lives in. In the second part we three transsexuals, whose lives and desires this album is a live cover version of Live’s When the and held together by a greatly advanced rhythm ses- have never been screened in Iceland before. Control (Above, left) are presented with the political uproar that reflect those of others in their community in Dolphins Cry – the ultimate crowd pleaser – but sadly sion. The album is also neatly crafted and includes This year, three of Ondricek’s latest features Ian Curtis, lead singer of the legendary rock followed the U.S. army invasion as extremist China, a community that deserves not only the only song on the this album where the producer some out of the ordinary, but welcome, synthesized will be screened. Ondricek will attend a Q&A group Joy Division, committed suicide at the Shiites see that the moment has come to take acceptance but also respect. could not run amok on his ProTools equipment, and sweetness. This album is so much better than a normal session after the premiere of his most recent age of 23. By then, he had recorded two al- action against the Sunnis, who have ruled the the only time that Magni fully uses his voice and lets it rock album. BR film Grandhotel. Leading actress Klára Issová bums with his band, gotten married, had a country for hundreds of years. The film’s final For more info go to www.riff.is escape from the scales. SBB will also attend the screening. mistress and fathered a child. Control is Curtis’ part revolves around a family of farmers in Originally printed in issue #12 Grapevine staffers put their heads together story of struggle with depression and alcohol- Kurdistan, which is perhaps the only region to select a few interesting titles from the fes- ism from his teenage years until his death of Iraq where “peace” still reigns. The film Reviews by Benedikt Reynisson, Páll Hilmarsson and Sveinn Birkir Björnsson

Lárus & Lárus

EXPECT HANG

Energy for life through forces of nature Hey Lárus, did you fix No, I couldn't, but I OVERS... the breaks on the car? made the horn louder.

THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. ALWAYS LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. NICE WWW.NASA.IS www.bluelagoon.com 1 EATING 8 30 SHOPPING 37 Pizza King DOWNTOWN REYKJAVÍK Cintamani Vor Hafnarstræti 18 G-Star Raw Laugavegur 11 Laugavegur 24 This small pizza place is not only cheap Laugavegur 86 If there is one thing you need in Iceland but offers the largest slices of pizza you’ll it is warm clothing. In a country known Vor’s refreshing take on café-style eat- 13 Buying jeans used to be a simple task. get downtown. Charging only 350 ISK Hafnarstræti for rapid wheather changes, you either ing is marked by its use of fresh ingre- 10 With the ever-growing selection, suc- per slice, not to mention the special come prepared, or buy the appropriate dients and a health-conscious menu that 2 cessful jeans hunting can take days. The lunch offer where a 10” pizza with three gear. Designed and developed in Iceland emphasises French and Mediterranean task did not get any easier with the re- toppings of your choice and a can of to meet rugged wheather conditions, Ask for a Tax Free cuisine. The fresh spring salad and the cent addition of a store from the indus- Coke costs only 800 ISK, Pizza King is Austurstræti 8 Cintamani clothing has been worn on excellent carrot-ginger soup are excellent try powerhouse G-Star Raw. This Dutch form & save up to 15% a local favourite. The fact it’s open until 3 17 both the North and the South Poles, as pick-me-ups on rainy days, and the cof- brand features an edgy collection, au- 6 on Friday and Saturday nights doesn’t well as on the top of Mount Everest. fee served is of the highest quality. thentic details and innovative washings. hurt either. 19 43 Bank astræti Ingólfsstræti 15 2 Hornið 9 Bernhöftsbakarí 25 31 Underground 38 Trilogia Lækjargata Hafnarstræti 15 Bergstaðarstræti 13 38 Veltusund 1 Laugavegur 7 26 37 Hverfisgata The casual family-friendly Italian-style It’s a bakery, the oldest one in the city 40 Laugav Located in a basement by Ingólfstorg, A collection of trendy designer wear corner restaurant has operated at the in fact, selling all sorts of bakery goods, 28 35 former pro skater, Mike Carroll’s skate- fills the space at fashion shop Trilogia, egur 44 same spot since 1979 when it became snacks and an extensive selection of the 21 board shop Underground is aptly named. including amazing designs by Alexander SPOT THIS: Sjávarkjallarinn 5 16 a loyal member of the Icelandic dining- sweet stuff from early dawn. We particu- Skóla The shop offers all the relevant skating McQueen and Chloe alongside Robert out tradition. Most famous for its pizzas larly love the spelt bread in the morning, Aðalstræti 2, 101 Reykjavík 20 gear, be it clothing or boards, from in- Cary Williams, Erotokritos and many,

and the generously stuffed calzone, the and some snúður, kleina and vínarbrauð vörðustígur dustry leading brand names such as many more. Summery dresses, sweaters wholesome menu prides itself on all sorts to go with the afternoon coffee. In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar chefs spired dishes. The most fun is to order the 12 27 DC, Circa and others. A wide array of and skirts for all the fashion conscious of high-standard pasta dishes, vegetarian serve gourmet fusion style dishes, where exotic menu, a range of courses carefully Klapparstígur 1 T-shirts, shoes, and other skating neces- girls out there as well as cool accessories and meat courses, all very affordable. 24 sities available. to complete the look. the emphasis is not only on ocean delights, selected by the chef, and share it with your 34 29 but also on all sorts of tempting Asia-in- dining partners.

3 Deco 10 Bæjarins bestu 7 32 Kirsuberjatréð 39 Kolaportið Austurstræti 12 Tryggvagata Vesturgata 4 Tryggvagata 19 Deco, a café and wine bar that has ev- There’s a good reason why there’s always 4 Kirsuberjatréð is the perfect little gift A trip to the downtown indoor flea mar- erything you need for a quality lunch a line in front of Bæjarins Bestu, regard- 11 shop. A co-op gallery/gift shop owned ket Kolaportið down by the harbour is café, right in the city centre. Its modern less of the weather or time of day. Select- 32 and operated by ten women artists and always a fun way to spend a Saturday af- and stylish interiors, varied menu and ed the best hot-dog stand in Europe by 18 designers. Kirsuberjatréð is the commer- ternoon. Endless stalls offering all kinds impressive selection of whiskey, draw The Guardian, a fact locals realized de- 42 39 cial outlet where they sell their products. of second-hand goods, candy and even me back again soon. Deco usually gets cades ago, it has been serving “ein með 5 22 23 The selections ranges from clothes, bas- fermented shark and Icelandic liquorice. quite crowded during the evening, when öllu” (“one with the lot”) to downtown 31 kets, ceramics, copper sculptures, fish If ready to spend some time thoroughly it turns into more of a wine bar than a pedestrians since 1935, making it the 41 Austurstr skin items, paper crafts, contemporary examining the selection you can find coffeehouse. oldest fast food restaurant in the coun- 6 æti Ingólfsstræti jewelry, felt items, and various other some great bargains. Only open on try. Grabbing a bite couldn’t be easier. Bankastræti designs. weekends. Hverfisgata Lækjargata Skólavörðustígur Laugavegur 33 4 Icelandic Fish Chips 11 Great Wall 33 Vinberið 40 Nakti Apinn 36 14 Tryggvagata 8 Restaurant 9 Laugavegur 43 Bankastræti 14 Not the regular fish’n’chips diner but a Vesturgata 6-8 Tjarnargata This small boutique sells all kinds of Nakti Apinn, located on the second floor Þingholtsstræti healthy restaurant using only organic As the name might suggest, Great Wall sweets. From chocolate fondue mix, to at Bankastræti 14, offers an amazing va- vegetables, quality fish products and Restaurant serves Chinese food with handmade chocolates, to lollypops and riety of colourful street-clothing, includ- Bergstaðarstræti 30 no wheat or white sugar in its kitchen. great pride. Located in an old house Frakkastígur Belgian chocolate with such flavours as ing hooded sweatshirts, T-shirts and leg- Deep-fried catch of the day served with that has recently been extensively refur- Óðinsgata lavender and ginger. Vinberið also sells gings designed by the owners and hand- oven baked potatoes and Skyronnes, bished, this new addition has enough Icelandic sweets, including the popular printed with different patterns, graphics a sauce made out of the fat-free milk space to accommodate large groups. In licorice products. A must stop for the and figures. Inside you’ll also find a good product Skyr and flavoured with all sorts the basement, you will find Great Wall sweet toothed. selection of Icelandic music, books on of spices, on the side for 1350 ISK. They Magazine, which will sell you all the art and design, accessories, baby clothes also offer take-away at all times. ingredients needed to make your own and international designer wear. Austurstræti 8 Chinese food. Barónsstígur

DRINKING 5 Sjávarkjallarinn 12 Á næstu grösum 15 18 Glaumbar 21 Sirkus 24 Boston 27 Barinn 34 Laugavegur 28 41 Thorvaldsens Bazar Aðalstræti 2 (First Vegetarian) Grái Kötturinn Tryggvagata 20 Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 28b Laugavegur 22 Laugavegur 28 Austurstræti 4 Laugavegur 20B Hverfisgata 16a In an elegant setting, Seafood Cellar Here is a bit of trivial information: In Ice- Attracting a mixed crowd of party-peo- Located above the second-hand fashion Up-and-coming Barinn is becoming A fresh addition to the Laugavegur fash- Located inside a dignified wooden build- chefs serve gourmet fusion style dishes, Many locals claim this to be the best A small antique-style non-smoking cof- landic, ‘glaumur’ means the sound of a ple, the small bar Sirkus has always been store Spútnik, with its roomy bar floor quite popular among Reykjavík party ion scene, four separate stores under ing, Thorvaldsens Bazar is among the where the emphasis is not only on ocean vegetarian restaurant in town offering a fee house in a Hverfisgata basement, party. I don’t know what more you need popular among musicians and the cre- and nice sofas in the lounge room up- scenesters. Its three floors and equally one roof, second-hand clothing and ac- oldest shops in Reykjavík, opening in delights, but also on all sorts of tempt- menu with plenty of vegan and vegetar- legendary for its early opening hours, to know about Glaumbar, except per- ative crowd who get along well although stairs, Boston is a fresh addition to the numerous bars get quite crowded dur- cessories stores Elvis and Rokk og rósir, 1901 and run by the women’s charity ing Asia-inspired dishes. The most fun ian options, both healthy and tasty. Ask amazing breakfast and strong coffee haps that it is the premier sports bar in the breathing space can be limited on Reykjavík bar scene. Old-school yet styl- ing weekends where a mix of dancing and CD experts Smekkleysa, all staples of organization the Thorvaldsen Society. is to order the exotic menu, a range of for the daily special or try the selection that will easily wake you up in the morn- town. After the final whistle, the action weekends. While Sirkus’s DJs provide for ish interiors, and enough tables to cre- downstairs and chatting upstairs make the Laugavegur shopping experience. In Selling souvenirs, handicrafts, woollen courses carefully selected by the chef, of three different courses. The Indian ing. We especially recommend The Truck, on the dance floor becomes feverish as the greatest party possible every week- ate a good vibe, make the place a comfy for a good night out. Though mostly a addition, the new store, Pop, supplying underclothes and sweaters as well as Ice- and share it with your dining partners. theme on Fridays is usually a hit and the American style breakfast consisting of local DJs take central role. end, the bar occasionally hosts concerts café as well as a laid-back tavern where DJ bar, Barinn occasionally hosts live gigs neat stuff for the home. The collective landic jewellery, the friendly saleswomen sugar free banana cake just one of the eggs, bacon, pancakes, fried potatoes, on weeknights. the music is good but never intrusive. and is always a fun party venue. will offer unique clothing and ornaments work as volunteers and all profits are do- highly tempting desserts. tomatoes, syrup and toast. The bagels and supply the score to your life. nated to charity work. are also excellent.

6 Shalimar 13 Nonnabiti 16 Kaffi Hljómalind 19 Hressó 22 Organ 25 Café Cultura 28 Q-Bar 35 Gullkúnst Helgu 42 Fríða Frænka Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 9 Laugavegur 21 Austurstræti 20 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Hverfisgata 18 Ingólfsstræti 3 Laugavegur 13 Vesturgata 3 Few places in Reykjavík match the great Renowned for its greasy sandwiches, This organic, free-trade café prides itself The celebrated site of one of the more The stylish two-floored bar and concert Located inside the Intercultural Cen- A spacious gay/straight friendly bar, the This spacious and classy store sells jew- This small boutique is a jam-packed combination of good price, excellent Nonnabiti, or Nonni as the locals call it, on being a non-profit company and a famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ venue Organ presents a diverse range tre, Cultura is a restaurant/bar with a newly renovated Q-Bar is a welcome ad- ellery made from lava and other stone. treasure chest overflowing with antique food, and fast service available at Shali- is one of the more popular junk food dedicated venue for the hardcore and café/bistro brings a European flair to the of concerts by local and international cosmopolitan feel, hosting an array of dition to the nightlife downtown. In styl- Gullkunst Helgu, which is housed in the furniture and items to perk up your mar. On the menu are assorted Indian- places around, offering a large selection cultural scene by hosting concerts, lec- city. That is until about 11, when things acts at least four times a week. Features events and various theme nights like ish and comfortable surroundings, with 1924 built shop on Laugevegur 13, has apartment. In every corner of the shop, Pakistan dishes and the lunch special is of take-away or dine in subs, sandwich- tures and poetry nights. Serving delicious get to rockin’, and you can see the true established bands and young emerg- Salsa teaching, tango nights and fusion a lounge-like atmosphere, a good vibe been selling unique jewellery such as you’ll find some unique items, including always a great bet for a good meal dur- es and burgers with a nice dash of the soups and vegetarian dishes as well as character of Reykjavík. ing musicians; the newly opened venue parties. The menu features all sorts of and plenty of seats, the place never gets necklaces, bracelets and watches for 15 candle holders, lamps, pillows, gorgeous ing a busy day. Grapevine staffers are unique Nonni-sauce. If you have a late organic tea, coffee and cake, this is the can accommodate 300 people and has international dishes like Thai soup, Span- uncomfortably crowded nor too noisy years. 60’s sofas, tables, vases and a selection frequently spotted in the locale, which night craving there’s no need to worry, place to visit for a reasonably priced enough seats for weary concertgoers to ish tapas, fahjitas and falafel mixed with for conversation. of clothes and vintage jewellery. should be recommendation enough. Nonni is open longer than most other healthy lunch. rest between sets. Open ’til way past late bistro regulars such as sandwiches and in the city center city the in places. on weekends. salads.

7 Sægreifinn 14 Austurlanda- 17 Segafredo 20 Kaffibarinn 23 Gaukurinn 26 Prikið 29 Dillon 36 Börn Náttúrunnar 43 Iða Verbúð 8, Geirsgata hraðlestin By Lækjartorg Bergstaðastræti 1 Tryggvagata 22 Bankastræti 12 Laugavegur 30 Skólavörðustígur 17a Lækjargata 2a cafe & bar & cafe Located right next to the Reykjavík har- Hverfisgata 64A The Italian coffee-chain found its spot in A popular coffee place on weekdays, es- Reykjavík’s version of CBGB’s, Gaukurinn This two-floor café/pub has been a part The quintessential rock-pub, Dillon fea- The children’s toy store Börn Náttúrun- The spacious Iða bookstore is a great bour, Sægreifinn fish shop and restau- Although a little pricey for a take-away, the heart of Reykjavík, with its windows pecially among students and downtown has been a mainstay in the Icelandic mu- of Reykjavík’s bar scene for decades. tures moderately priced drinks, a dark nar, located in a Skólavörðustígur base- source for all kinds of reading material of- rant is truly like no other you’ll witness in charging around 1600 ISK for a main facing the Lækjartorg Square. Serving workers who like to enjoy a bottle of sic scene since the days of Ingólfur Ar- With a large and fairly cheap bistro and cosy mood and some pretty good ment, sells clothes and toys made only of fering an excellent range of books, travel the country. The menu features various course, the food is well worth that extra lunch snacks like paninis and strong beer after a busy day. At weekends, Kaf- narson. A popular live venue, this is the menu, Prikið attracts a mix of university music (especially when local favourite organic products as well as books about guides, magazines, post-cards and great fish dishes and a rich portion of the best spending once in a while. Serving typi- espressos for coffee lovers whether you fibarinn becomes the opposite of a quiet place to find young and upcoming band, students with their laptops and elderly DJ Andrea Jóns mans the decks). The childcare and parenthood. Here you can gift items. The first-class service will help lobster soup we’ve ever tasted. It also ca- cal Indian dishes, the menu is a treasure need to grab a cup and sandwich on the destination, as its two floors fill up with as well as older and more established devoted regulars during the day while tattooed, beer-lovin’ types who hang buy creative wooden playthings and you search for what you need. On the ters to groups upstairs where the room chest for those with a penchant for a way to work or want to enjoy your drink the late-night souls. With DJs playing live bands. Anyone who is anything in Icelan- the younger clientele fills up the space out there on school nights are joined by woollen products for the young ones second floor you’ll find restaurants serv- looks more like a cabin than a diner. The spicy bite. There are also a few tables in- on the spot. sets from Wednesday to Saturday, the dic music has passed through Gaukurinn during the evening and especially at legions of parka-clad students during carefully selected by the parents who ing sushi, soups and sandwiches. good food and welcoming service make side for those who choose to dine in. party doesn’t start winding down until at one point or another. weekends when the music is mostly weekends, creating a party atmosphere own the shop. this place a must-try. early morning. dedicated to hip-hop and R&B. that’s always fun to partake in.

ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANI TASTE

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 950.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1150.- AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 15_2007_REVIEWS/FOOD

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Boston Domo Garðurinn Whales& Laugavegur 28,101 Reykjavík Þingholtsstræti 5, 101 Reykjavík, tel.: 552 5588 Klapparstíg 37, 101 Reykjavík, tel.:561 2345 Puffin Island Until recently, Boston has been known to bar hoppers in Domo has not been around for long, but in the short time The restaurant Garðurinn, or as it is called in English, Ecstasy’s Take part in an adventure at sea with an unforgettable 3-hour Reykjavík as a comfortable place to go for drinks and meeting since its opening it has garnered a good reputation through Heart Garden, is a small and friendly family-operated vegetar- trip into the world of whales and sea birds. friends. Now it takes a plunge into the ever growing scene of word of mouth. I am pleased to inform you that the reputa- ian restaurant, located on Klapparstígur, a little side street Located in Reykjavik's old harbour, only a 5 minute walk from bistros and restaurants located in downtown Reykjavík. Though tion is mostly well deserved. from Laugavegur. It does not exactly protrude when you pass the city centre. it opened its doors on New Year’s Eve in 2006, its location has The restaurant’s simplistic, yet elegant design presents an it, but if vegetarian is your choice, you should probably keep been somewhat of a mystery to many, owing to the fact that aura of no-frills attitude towards fine dining. Monotonous an eye out for it. A spacious double-deck and a special viewing area on the it has no sign on the outside to lead prospective clients in. But black and white interior, peppered with warm wood and The menu is rather simple. It consists of the day’s special third deck ensures a spectacular view into the deep blue sea. Puffin season that hasn’t stopped it from flourishing. red décor that give the place warmth, despite the minimalist and the soup de jour, both of which are changed every day. 60170 • fít Once inside one realises that this is not one of those design. It fits the menu perfectly. With a dominating Asian The week’s selection is available every Monday in advance. • April May June July Aug Sept Oct Call us on 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 or visit typical, over-designed modernistic places in Reykjavík. It’s themed cuisine, Domo offers a lot of sushi types and other The restaurant offers an half n’ half option, that is, a small MIXA obvious that a lot of effort has been made to create a unique “cold” dishes; yet, each dish is nicely decorated, earning bowl of soup and a small dish of the day’s special, for a very 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 555 3565 www.elding.is atmosphere at Boston. The daring combination of black and praise from my companion as “the most beautiful food in manageable 1150 ISK. 17:00 17:00 17:00 golden colours, antique chairs, Victorian-style wallpaper, and Reykjavík.” If nothing else, a dinner at Domo is an aesthetic When my lunch date and I sat down for a power lunch modern art makes up an interior design like no other in Iceland experience. (every lunch should be a power lunch, shouldn’t it?) at the – everything working together to create a relaxed ambiance We selected the Domo Surprise, a five-course combo se- Garden, the day’s selection was tofu in coconut milk and Turk- for dinner and wine. lected by Domo’s chefs. At 6,800 ISK (ca. $100) it could be ish bean soup. Both dishes were excellent, and although I am The menu isn’t very long, only nine courses in total, in- considered a bargain, as on average a simple starter comes at always a little sceptical of tofu that I have not prepared myself, Elding Whale Watching, Reykjavík harbour cluding appetizers and desserts. Hildur, co-manager and one around 2,000 ISK and a main course around 4,000. The wine I feel confident in giving this dish the thumbs-up. The home Tel: (+354) 555 3565, Fax: (+354) 554 7420 of two owners, told me that the idea was to rotate between selection was left in the hands of the waiter, and he proved baked spelt bread that followed the soup was a good, but the [email protected], www.elding.is different menus quite frequently and that way let it reflect the fit for the job. hummus really stood apart. Afterwards, we had a strong cup seasons. For starters, we were served a mixed sushi platter, eight of coffee and some very good cakes, one chocolate and an Skipping the appetizers we went straight for the main different kinds in total, with a glass of light Italian wine that equally good carrot cake. That is something of an achievement course. I decided on chicken medallions with Parma ham and proved fitting. They were all good and although my compan- really, since both cakes were made from spelt, but still did not salvia. Somehow the combination of chicken wrapped around ion did not care for squid, I must mention the salmon maki, taste dry or dull, as spelt sweet bread often tends to do. Parma ham and a string of salvia perplexed my senses for a which I thought stood out among them. Among the dishes available that week were: Persian vegetable bit, not knowing what to make of the taste. But it soon came The second starter was a delight. First, a lightly broiled and fruit dish and carrot soup (Thursday), vegetarian curry, and to me; it was brilliant, unlike anything I had tried before. kangaroo, served with pears and cashew nuts. Perhaps fit- bean and vegetable soup (Friday), Mexican burritos w/ pinto My companion went for a more conservative dish of traditional tingly, the kangaroo was served with a glass of Australian beans and vegetable soup w/ basil (Saturday); no shortage of Icelandic fish stew favoured by many Icelanders. This being a white Riesling. Second, perfectly fried scallops with coriander. exciting options obviously. very simple dish only meant that the demands for success on It was the peak of the night. The service is extremely friendly, as it usually is in family the chef’s part were even greater. Much to our delight the The main course consisted of fried cod in garlic and Soya, run places. The dining area is small and decorated with photos stew was exceptionally good. a delicious treat, lightly fried duck breast, a very good choice, of Sri Chinmoy, with relaxing yoga music coming from the For dessert we both had the French chocolate cake. Look- and grilled lamb with plum sauce, which I frankly felt was speakers. I guess it would be easy to describe the atmosphere ing like a muffin, it had a cake-like crisp on the outside but beneath the standards set by previous dishes. But again, the as new-age, but that would be over-simplifying things. Mostly, the inside was filled with warm, creamy chocolate. Now I red Australian Shiraz Cabernet was a fitting selection. After this is just a good restaurant. could try to go into details for you, using words like ‘velvet’ enjoying chocolate tarte, raspberry ice cream and exotic fruit, The only real complaint is that it is only open until 17:00 and ‘euphoria’ and somehow try to translate the sensation it the evening was brought to a close by another excellent se- each day, except for Sunday, when it is closed all together. gave to me – but I won’t. The reason for this is simple: words lection by the waiter, a glass of France Muscat wine. SBB cannot do it justice. All I can say is, try it and you’ll know what As far as fine dining in Reykjavík goes, Domo is up there I mean. SH with the best of them. SBB

Reviews by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson and Sverrir Hjálmarsson Photos by Gulli and Skari

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21,990 ISK This Chie Mihara Gina heel in red is juicy enough to eat. Shoes like this are why Kron has a special place deep in all our hearts, and our wallets. Made in Spain. Kron, Laugavegur 48

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8,990 ISK Puma’s “The Suede” is a pure classic. These babies find that simplicity never goes out of style. Alternate white laces included. Pumabúðin/Maraþon, Laugavegur 42

5,550 ISK These vintage boots are made for walking. Strutting really. A must for tackling winter in style. PREN 16,990 ISK Spúútnik, Laugavegur 28b Camper’s “homage” to Barcelona and the skate scene. Alternate orange laces included. Made in Morocco. Kron, Laugavegur 48 TAÐU BOLI NNÞ INN

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5,500 ISK The Florsheim Shoe, once the most popular men’s shoe brand in the United States. Find this and more King-worthy feet accessories at Elvis on Laugavegur. Elvis, Laugavegur 28

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That old cliché about women having a soft But it’s not just women who get a kick spot for shoes is alive and well in Reykjavík, out of Kron, as the store stocks quality men’s especially when those women pop into shoe- shoes and boots to boot. A purchase from store Kron on Laugavegur. Co-shop owner Kron is definitely a treat, and should be Hugrún Árnadóttir is alleged to have the considered such, especially when you get a most impressive shoe collection in Iceland, look at the price tag. Yet the prices dutifully and not surprisingly, since Kron is something follow some of Europe’s top labels, a fact of of a candy-store for feet enthusiasts. Indeed pretention that the store often lets you forget. everything inside is deliciously wearable, the As anyone with a self-respecting sweet tooth best brands, quality, and style hand-picked will undoubtedly affirm, this place is a factory to make Kron the most exciting shoe retailer of sweet, sweet shoes, and luckily enough in the city. Kron stocks brands such as Chie you don’t need a Golden Ticket to take the Mihara, Vialis and Salvador Sapena, and is magical tour. VÞ one of the only stores in all of Iceland that sells the gorgeous Spanish brand Camper. B14_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 15_2007_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE 15_2007_BOOKS_B15

Services 11-18. www.ahus.is Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses come from a Nordic country, foreign in Scoresbysund before returning to Austria, Useful Numbers Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Icelandic Travel Market are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 citizens have to have had an unre- where he died in 1968 and Christiane Ritter Emergency number: 112 09-16. Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, in churches all around the capital. stricted residence permit in Iceland for in 2000. Police: 569 9000 www.kleif.is Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja at least seven years in order to get an Not held by any Icelandic library, but used Medical help: 1770 Getting Around Information on day tours, accommo- every last Saturday each month, start- Icelandic citizenship although some copies are for sale on abebooks.com for about Dental emergency: 575 0505 Public transport dations, car rental and everything else ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic exceptions exist to that general rule. $8. Easily available used or new in German. AA: 551 2010 The only public transport system in you need to know when travelling in Church also has masses in English and Applications are at the Ministry of Information: 118 Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iceland. Polish. Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Iceland – Ripples from Iceland Telegrams: 146 every 20 minutes and price per fare is Iceland Visitor Other religious movements in Reykja- Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, By Amalia Líndal (1962) Tax Free Refund 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, vík are for example: www.domsmalaraduneyti.is Amalia Líndal met her Icelandic husband when Iceland Refund, dren. Complete route map at: www. www.icelandvisitor.com The Muslim Association of Iceland, Unemployment benefits: Director- they were both students in Boston just after Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 A travel agency offering travelling Ármúli 38 ate of Labour, Public Employment World War II. She came back to Iceland with www.icelandrefund.com Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on package trips and custom-made tours Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, him in 1949 and raised five children in Kópa- Laundry Service weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week- as well as car rental, day tours and Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 www.vinnumalastofnun.is vogur. In between meals and diaper changes, HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, ends accommodations for visitors. The Church of Evangelism, Icelandic social security number she wrote – collecting her observations of Ice- Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Rent a bike Tourist Information Centre Hlíðasmári 9 (kennitala): National Register, Bor- landic society into this book, and later editing Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, The Icelandic Buddhist Movement, gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, a magazine called 65° Icelandic Life. Her prose Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net www.visitreykjavik.is Víghólastígur 21 www.hagstofa.is is light and readable, her opinions forthright, Post Office HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, Offers information for tourists as well Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, Driver’s license: Those who have a sincere, and sometimes controversial. Twenty Post offices are located around the Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is as providing internet access, booking Fríkirkjuvegur 5 foreign license don’t need an Icelandic short chapters cover subjects like moving to city as well as in the countryside. Tourist Information Centre, service, a phone centre, money ex- Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 one for the first six months. After that Iceland, childbirth, home ownership, gender The downtown post office is at Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, change service, tax refund and selling Roman Catholic Church, time you have one month to apply for roles, class distinctions, alcohol use, mother- Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and www.visitreykjavik.is the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja- Hávallagata 14 an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- hood, sex, religion, and Christmas. Forty-five info on opening hours visit www. Taxi vík Tourist Card gives admission to city Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- tions are at police stations. years later, it is amazing to see both how much posturinn.is. Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, busses, various museums, Reykjavík Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, Iceland has changed, and how much Líndal’s Stamps are also sold in bookstores, Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 swimming pools, The Family Park and Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71 Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is descriptions still ring true. Líndal’s marriage gas stations, some grocery stores and BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and Seventh-Day Adventists, Rent subsidies: Social Service Office, broke up in 1971, she renounced her American tourist shops. For disabled travellers the National and University Library. Suðurhlíð 36 Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www. citizenship when the Vietnam War put her sons Embassies and Consulates Reykjavík Group Travel Service, The Icelandic Tourist Board Zen Buddhism in Iceland, felagsthjonustan.is under threat of the draft, and in 1973 she left in Iceland Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Iceland for Canada, where she remarried and United States, Laufásvegur 21, randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav- www.visiticeland.com Independent Church, Facts on Iceland passed away in 1989. Get the second (1988) Tel: 562 9100 el_service/ All information needed before travel- Háteigsvegur 101 Iceland is a constitutional repub- edition of the book, which includes an inter- United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja- ling in Iceland. The Russian Orthodox Church in lic with slightly more than 300,000 esting epilogue. Tel: 550 5100 vík, can be found at tourist offices. Goethe Institute Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the Available at almost any Icelandic library, or Russia, Garðastræti 33, Car rentals Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 country’s capital since 1786 and today Five Classic Books About Moving on sale at Reykjavík bookstores for less than Tel: 551 5156 Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, www.goethe.de/island Trade Unions almost two-thirds of the population 400 ISK. China, Víðimelur 29, Tel: 554 6040 A cultural institute that offers movie The Icelandic Federation of Labour, live in the greater capital area. Tel: 552 6751 ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 screenings, lectures and German Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is The 17th of June 1944 Iceland to the North Atlantic Ireland – The Island of the White Cow For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 language courses. The Federation of State and Mu- became an independent republic. By Deborah Tall (1986) Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800 Nordic House nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, That day is the national holiday and is A divorced Irish playwright comes to teach sions/icelandic-missions/ A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is celebrated all around the country. Text by Ian Watson for a year at the English department of an Internet Access Tel: 587 5544 www.nordice.is The Association of Academics, Bor- Alþingi, the national parliament, American university. He falls for a pretty stu- Most coffeehouses have wireless Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, The Nordic cultural centre organises gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is is the oldest assembly in the world, dent named Deborah Tall, she falls for him, Internet access. Tel: 565 3800 various cultural events, conferences Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, established at Þingvellir in 930 but You know the story already: a comfortably village, hosted by one family after the next. Winona Ryder and Angelina Jolie. Wylie has and he convinces her to run away with him Computers with Internet connections Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, and exhibitions. www.efling.is restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par- off writer buys an old farmhouse in France He is alternately exhilarated by the thrill of also written several fine books about Faroese after graduation to the island of Inishbofin are available at: Tel: 577 6050 All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also The Commercial Workers’ Union, liament is comprised of 63 members, or Italy, drags their sceptical spouse along, learning to ice-fish and drive a dog-sled, and history and culture. off the northwest coast of Ireland. The book Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 offer brochures, maps and information Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is who are elected by popular vote every meets the eccentric neighbours, learns to cook repelled by Greenlandic isolation, drunkenness, Get it from the Seltjarnarnes, Gerðuberg, tells the story of their five years there, from BSÍ Bus Terminal, Airlines for travellers. Union of Public Servants, Grettis- four years. Icelandic citizens over 18 with the local herbs, and writes a best-selling underemployment, poor housekeeping, and and Seyðisfjörður public libraries, or for literally 1972 to 1977. This was Ireland long before Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is years of age have the legal right to book about their new life. But what about village jealousies. After a year and a half, he pennies at Amazon.com. it got all those European Union development Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Useful Information Useful Websites vote. the people who move north and west, not returns to Paris, where he has lived ever since. grants and slashed its corporate taxes to at- The Reykjavík City Library, Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, Where to learn Icelandic as a www.visitreykjavik.is (The official Parliamentary elections were last south? These five classic books tell of their Originally written in French, this book has been Svalbard – A Woman in the Polar Night tract business. The islanders are fascinating, Tryggvagata 15 www.eyjaflug.is foreign language tourist website of Reykjavík) held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of authors’ fascination with the North Atlantic, translated into many languages and has slowly By Christiane Ritter (1938) and make good company, but are (much like The National and University Li- Bus Terminal Icelandic on the Internet, www.gayice.is (Information about votes going to the Independence and the enthusiasm that made them leave become a real classic. A tiny hut on the snowbound northern coast Kpomassie’s Greenlanders) burdened by un- brary, Arngrímsgata 3 BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, www.vefskoli.is the gay scene in Iceland) Party. The Social Democratic Alliance their southern homes and come here to live ... Available at Borgarbókasafn’s downtown of Svalbard was home to the Austrian couple employment, alcoholism, remoteness, jealousy, Tourist Information Centre, Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Mímir Continuing Education, www.fjolmenningarsetur.is got 31 percent, the Progressive Party three Americans, one Austrian, and a young branch, or for less than a dollar from Amazon. Christiane and Hermann Ritter during the win- and frustrated ambitions. The island lacks a Aðalstræti 2 Samferda.net Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is (The Multicultural Centre) 17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8 man from Togo. com. ter of 1933–1934. Christiane Ritter’s superb good store, reliable telephone service, and a Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2 A reasonable choice for the budget Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, www.hostel.is percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per- book about her year in Svalbard came out running water supply. Tall is forced to cast off Opening hours traveller. You log on to the website Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 (Hostel International in Iceland) cent. The Independence Party and the Greenland – An African in Greenland Faroe Islands – Far Afield just before World War II, and the German-lan- most of her romantic notions of island life, Bars and clubs: According to regula- www.samferda.net, choose your Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, www.vinnumalastofnun.is Progressive Party formed a coalition By Tété-Michel Kpomassie (1981) By Susanna Kaysen (1990) guage edition is still in print (Eine Frau erlebt but she gains wisdom from her hardship, and tions bars may be open until 01:00 on destination and hopefully find a travel Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is (Public employment services) and together lead the government. Tété-Michel Kpomassie grows up in a good In the early 1970s, Susanna Kaysen accom- die Polarnacht). She would not have come she writes beautiful prose. This book speaks weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. buddy to share the cost. The Icelandic College of Engineer- www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages) Iceland has 12 ministers with the family in Togo, and one day discovers a book panied her then-husband Jonathan Wylie to but for her husband, who had already made to anyone who has ever dreamed of giving it Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9, www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) prime minister and head of govern- about Greenland in a used bookstore. With live for a year in the village of Skopun in the several trips to Svalbard, and she describes her all up and buying an old house by the green closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Cultural Centres and Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is www.ja.is ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is the adorably random obsessiveness of youth, Faroe Islands, where Wylie collected material ambivalence at leaving her civilized Central fields and stormy coasts on the western edge and Smáralind as well as most super- Tourist Offices Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, (Icelandic telephone directory) also chairman of the Independence he decides that he just has to go there. After for his Ph.D. dissertation at Harvard University. European life to keep house in the far north for of Europe. Eventually, Tall and her Irish friend markets and tourist shops have longer The Intercultural Centre Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Where to get … Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur several years of working his way north via Her book Far Afield, published twenty years her husband and his hunting and trapping bud- split up, and she returned to the United States, opening hours. The Intercultural Centre throws oc- www.ir.is Work and residence permit: The Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in Paris and Germany, he finally gets the right later, fictionalizes their experience, even going dies. Ultimately, she comes to love the Arctic, where she had a successful career as writer, Swimming pools: weekdays casional cultural events and confer- The University of Iceland – Depart- Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð office since 1996. He is the Chief of visa and reaches Greenland in 1964. He’s a so far as to write herself out of it. Though the and her depiction of raw nature and isolated editor, and teacher before her untimely death 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 ences but its main purpose is to be an ment of Continuing Education, 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. State although his duties are mostly handsome and agreeable kind of guy, young novel falls slightly short of classic status, it is beauty is second to none. During World War in 2006. although some may be open an hour information and counselling centre Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, Insurance and benefits: The State ceremonial. Greenlandic women quickly fall for him, and easy to read and one of the most accessible II, Hermann Ritter’s Svalbard experience landed Not held by any Icelandic library, but used longer. and serve as an advocate for the rights www.endurmenntun.is Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Time Zone: GMT 0 his description of the sometimes casual, some- portraits of Faroese life in English. Kaysen is him a job running a German weather station copies from Amazon.com cost $4. The State owned ÁTVR liquor of immigrants in Iceland. Religious movements 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK). times ritual promiscuity of Greenlandic life best known for her subsequent book Girl, Inter- in Greenland. The station was discovered, stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 The national church in Iceland is the Icelandic citizenship: Unless you International Dialling Code: +354 is riveting. Kpomassie drifts from village to rupted, which was made into a movie starring and Ritter ended the war as an Allied prisoner

Don’t miss Kisan when in downtown Reykjavík. A truly unique concept store carrying world known brands as well Step into as local delights like the quality The exhibition and museum shop are open sweaters from Farmers Market – daily 10–17 only place in downtown. the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 101 Reykjavík / Iceland &*#HZeiZbWZg¶'*#CdkZbWZg'%%, Experience Viking-Age Reykjavíka t the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is Annick Goutal, Bonpoint, exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like Farmers Market, Orla Kiely, Sonia Rykiel, relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. oldest such site found in Iceland. Laugavegi 7 • 101 Reykjavík Ign\\kV\ViV&*!+i][addgÆ&%&GZn`_Vk`ÆIZa#*+(&,.%Æe]didbjhZjb5gZn`_Vk^`#^hÆlll#e]didbjhZjb#^h Jamin Puech, Petit Bateau, Steiff... Sími 561 6262 • www.kisan.is DeZc^c\]djgh&'¶&.bdc¶[g^!&(¶&,lZZ`ZcYhÆ69B>HH>DC;G:: REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_FEATURE/FREE TRADE_17

transport). It also might be defined to include na has yet received such a license. So even a considerable amount of moral queasiness. the types of banking services that an Icelan- though CCP has an office in China, they can- But for now, economics has trumped The myth that the future dic-registered bank like Glitnir can offer to its not offer EVE Online to Chinese users. They idealism. When I studied Chinese in Beijing of business is in China is customers in Shanghai. The free trade agree- do, however, lease EVE Online to a Chinese in 1992, the atmosphere was still politically ment will not change the residence and work company which sells it to Chinese users under charged, and it is only a small exaggeration to very old. As early as 1840, permit system that limits Chinese workers’ a different name. However, the virtual world say that every conversation with Chinese stu- ability to come to Iceland. in the Chinese version of EVE Online is not dents was thought of as an example of friend- European and American connected to the virtual world accessible to ship between nations. Now, most foreigners manufacturers ran the Old-Fashioned Gains users in other countries, so Chinese users can in China have making money on their mind, Iceland–China It seems that Iceland’s main gains from a free only play with each other, not with Europeans not political principles. This has pulled the po- numbers and calculated trade agreement with China will be very old- or Americans. dium away from those who are troubled by that they could get hugely fashioned and simple, and incremental rather Naturally, CCP hopes that a free trade social, environmental, and human rights is- Is Free-trade as Good as Claimed? than revolutionary. To start with, halibut and agreement between Iceland and China would sues in China. rich if they could just sell redfish exported from Iceland to China are let them sell their services directly to Chinese Europeans’ personal relations with Chi- currently subject to a customs tariff of 10- customers, so that Chinese players could reg- nese have started to resemble their relations one toothpick or button to 15%, which would hopefully disappear under ister and pay directly to CCP for membership with Americans, in which feelings about, say, the agreement. in EVE Online and participate in the same the death penalty or the war in Iraq are mostly each person in China. Meanwhile, ninety-eight percent of Ice- virtual environment as the rest of the world. set aside. land’s imports from China are manufactured No one seems sure whether the free trade Still, it never takes long before a disturb- FRI SEP 21 – 23:00 goods like shoes or telephones. Export manu- agreement under discussion will actually bring ing story comes over the news from China facturing has boomed in China, especially in about any change in this kind of complex situ- – or the United States – about pollution, or Text by Ian Watson the coastal cities, over the last two or three ation, where regulatory power, Internet free- corruption, or discrimination, or cultural im- GusGus / Dj Andrés (3,500 ISK) decades – just as it once did in other Asian doms, and online payment issues interact. perialism. Such stories force the idealist deep countries like Japan, Korea, and Taiwan. For inside every pragmatist to ask again what we As Iceland and China moved closer towards the first time in 2006, Iceland imported more Idealism and Pragmatism should do when we see fellow humans suffer. signing a free trade agreement, the state tele- from China than it did from Japan. China’s growing importance in world trade No amount of business success can ever quite vision news came up with a great graphic to Many Chinese goods actually stop in other disturbs the “China idealists” who still feel make this question go away. illustrate what might happen. Two lace-less European countries on their way to Iceland. that Western relations with China should be shoes arrive duty-freeSAT in IcelandSEP from 22 China. – 22:00 Some are subject to a 15% tariff when they conditional on the humane development of The History of China Hype Icelanders tie on a set of laces. Then we resell enter the European Union. This is supposed Chinese society. Idealists are horrified by the It’s skilful marketing, in addition to business the shoes duty-free to Europe at way less than to be refunded if the goods are re-exported quality of life in Chinese society, and the Chi- realities, that has created a China buzz in Ice- Europe’s price for Baconimporting direct. Live Support Unit Release Concert to Iceland. But in practice the refund doesn’t nese government’s seeming indifference to its land. And marketing often means creating ex- The unstated fear that this news story always take place. So imports wind up being peoples’ suffering. They condemn China’s use pectations that people can get excited about, played upon runs basically like this: China has subject to Icelandic tariffs on top of the Eu- of the death penalty, its cultural imperialism even if they never fully pan out. infiltrated the Icelandic government and has ropean ones, which increases Icelandic retail in Tibet and Xinjiang, the working conditions The myth that the future of business is in a secret plan to use Iceland as a back door to prices. in its factories, its lack of freedom of speech, China is very old. As early as 1840, European Europe’s markets. WEDA few people SEP in Iceland 26 will – 21:00 As long as Iceland remains outside of the the way that ordinary Chinese people keep and American manufacturers ran the numbers make lots of money on this, at the moral cost EU, a free-trade agreement may encourage each other under ideological surveillance, the and calculated that they could get hugely rich of collusion with an ethically bankrupt coun- more Icelandic wholesalers to import directly weak rule of law, the poor state of the envi- if they could just sell one toothpick or but- try which mistreats its people and is ruining from China, by making the savings from doing ronment and public health, China’s belligerent ton to each person in China. Iceland’s current the environment. Elíza Release Concert so significant enough to offset any inefficien- ethnocentric tendencies, and its stubborn op- exports to China work out to only about two In fact, country-of-origin rules mean that cy in importing directly to such a small market position to letting Taiwan become a normal ISK per Chinese. What if we could boost that Iceland would have to add more value than instead of through larger mainland facilities. independent country. They want the rest of to two hundred ISK, by getting every Chinese tying on a pair of shoelaces in order to be able As any introductory economics class teaches, the world to act harshly towards China – no person to eat half an Icelandic cod fillet on to re-label Chinese products as its own. But free trade is, at least in principle, good for Olympics, no free trade – until it changes. average every year? Just a few hundred grams this story illustratesTHU how theSEP China 27 buzz – in 21:00 both parties’ bottom lines. These days, the idealists are losing their – that’s not much, now! Iceland is riddled with myths and hype. The battle to the so-called China pragmatists. These speculative dreams have a history of Grapevine’s editor asked me to cut through Refrigerated Transport: Eimskip Deep down, pragmatists sympathise with the not working out. One of the most poignant them and find out what is really happening. Icelandic exports to China totalled 2.75 billion idealists’ concerns, but they have concluded examples was the story of the Icelandic-owned Conspiracy theoristsBenny probably imagine Crespos Gang / Royal Fortune ISK in 2006, 80% of which were frozen sea- that the only sensible way to deal with China Scandinavian Guangzhou Candy Company, that all of the talk about China in Iceland is food products. Fish is a high-status protein in is to engage it economically and politically. which began producing liquorice in China in because rich, corrupt Chinese businessmen- Chinese culture, although the Chinese prefer They suspect that criticising Chinese society March 1993 and closed amid land ownership cum-politicians have paid off rich, corrupt Ice- to buy live rather than frozen fish when pos- is counterproductive. (On a personal level, disputes in the summer of 1994. (For more landic businessmen-cum-politicians to be able sible. Much of the Icelandic fish that is sent direct criticism can make Chinese representa- detail, see Stefán Úlfarsson’s master’s thesis, to influence the SAT political SEP process here29 (and– 23:00 to China travels with Eimskip, Iceland’s largest tives feel they have lost face, and thus disen- “Kína í íslenskum veruleika.”) kick some Falun Gong butt in the process!) shipping line. gage.) They see benefit in increased business I lived through a more modest example But the more I looked into the situation, the Eimskip has four offices in China and just with China and hope that in an economically of high expectations when I went to work for less sensational it turned out to be. China is signed a contract to manage China’s largest stronger China, social and environmental con- the then Bifröst School of Business in 2005. neither as much ofMetor a threat, nor as much Area of (USA) refrigerated warehouse in Qingdao. While Ice- ditions will improve from the bottom up. Amid much fanfare, the school had signed an opportunity, as it is made out to be. landic frozen fish will surely spend time in this Iceland’s China policy has long since a partnership agreement with a university in warehouse, it will also serve other shippers moved from idealism to pragmatism. But even Shanghai. The hype was that just as many Not Just Free Trade from other nations, as do Eimskip’s operations to pragmatists, the degree of recent Icelandic- Chinese students have come to American Iceland is not really that special. China has al- in general. Chinese contact sometimes seems dispropor- and European universities in the past couple ready signed severalTHU free tradeOCT agreements, 4 – 21:00 This is in turn a sign that growth oppor- tionate. A recent report in Fréttablaðið (June decades, dozens of Chinese students would and is now working on adding New Zealand, tunities for Iceland, in China and elsewhere, 24) says that 20 official Chinese delegations soon be studying business at Bifröst. This Australia, Switzerland, Iceland, and Norway. may no longer be in raw exports of Icelandic were expected in Iceland in 2007. sounded exciting at the time, but little by little For the time being, China has left the big goods. The game now is to manage, own, or All of them will take up Icelandic public it turned out to have been a misjudgement of fish – the EU, theMónitor USA, and Japan – out of Concert invest in all sorts of businesses, which serve cli- servants’ time and money. One can’t help but the market. No Chinese students ever came their sights, probably because those negotia- ents worldwide and employ local people. This wonder whether this will be time and money to Iceland. But there was actually a workable tions are trickier and more politically charged. might mean logistics and transport, or supply wisely spent. Chinese officials tend to come to business model in the relationship. Shanghai Smaller, peripheral countries like Norway chain management, or airlines, or banking. Iceland in large groups. Of course one wants became a popular, inexpensive, and exotic and New Zealand have more to gain from Modern Icelandic businesspeople no lon- to be hospitable and to promote cultural ex- study abroad destination for Bifröst students an agreement, andFRI China’s OCT smaller 5 successes – 21:00 ger move abroad to sell fish, like in the old change. But the protocol and security arrange- – essentially, another outsourcing role for Chi- might pave the way for bigger ones. days. They drive their jeeps to work in Reykja- ments for Chinese visitors have sometimes na, with Icelanders as purchasers, and teach- Signing a free trade agreement requires vík, where they might own part of a company seemed excessive. Even Minister of Justice ing rather than phones or TVs as the prod- recognising ChinaLee as a “market Hazelwood economy,” Tribute Concert based in London which serves German cli- Björn Bjarnason, a person who normally takes uct. which is something that many countries would ents in Asian markets. While Iceland’s “flag” pride in Iceland’s police and border security Besides sheer size, another way to get prefer not to do. China is, increasingly, a free- products are still important – the ones that capability, has repeatedly criticised the Icelan- people excited about China is to play on the market society, but it is also still opaque, au- tourists talk about, like fish and geothermal dic government’s heavy-handedness towards natural tendency to imagine that foreign cul- thoritarian, and centralised. So being among know-how – Icelandic companies have, very Falun Gong protesters during Chinese presi- tures possess secret spiritual wisdom. Own- the first to recognise China as a market econ- sensibly, grown up and gone global. dent Jiang Zemin’s visit to Iceland in 2002. ers of Zen retreats, purveyors of meditation, omy means beingSAT among OCTthe first 6willing – 22:00to It’s easy to see how these visits make massage, and Chinese medicine, and tattoo say that the glass is half full rather than half Virtual realities: EVE Online some people start to imagine that Iceland has artists who post Chinese character designs on empty. This is a justifiable move at this point in A completely different example of Icelandic lost track of its self-interest and swung be- their walls all lick their lips when Europeans history, and at theSkátar same time it is a somewhat / Bloodgroup operations in China involves CCP, a successful yond pragmatism to a point where it is letting and North Americans come through the door dubious honour for countries like Iceland. computer-game company based in Reykjavík. itself be manipulated. I haven’t managed to convinced that Asians understand the path There has been lots of talk about how the Their star product is EVE Online, a multiplayer learn enough about the costs, incentives and to cosmic bliss. (Similarly, Landsbanki’s recent agreement between China and Iceland will role-playing game with about 200,000 users outcomes of these visits, the interests behind English-language advertising campaign, which be a “new generation” free trade agreement, worldwide who pay $15 a month to play. CCP them, the time they take or the amount of which will cover services as well as goods. I needs to offer user support 24 hours a day, so free food involved, to really judge whether have heard people say that thousands of Chi- they opened two extra offices in places where this is the case. nese workers will flood Iceland to offer their people are awake when Iceland is asleep. New Zealand is another country which has China is neither as much services to the construction or fishing indus- They chose Atlanta and Shanghai as the loca- moved from idealism to pragmatism in the of a threat, nor as much tries at very low wages.www.myspace.com/organreykjavik tions and now have around twenty employ- last few years. Much like in Iceland, critics ac- However, it seems that free trade in “ser- ees, mostly Chinese, working in the Shanghai cuse New Zealand’s government of suppress- of an opportunity, as it is vices” really meansHafnarstræti things like letting 1-3, Icelan back- alley – Open: Mon-Thu 19-01 / Fri 17-05 / Sat 19-05 / Sun closed office. ing protests against visiting Chinese leaders, dic shipping companies move goods not just China’s bureaucracy requires that provid- stonewalling local journalists who have ide- made out to be. from Reykjavík to China, but also between ers of online computer games be licensed by alistically criticised China, and moving too two different Chinese ports (what’s called the government – few other countries have quickly towards a free trade agreement with a “cabotage” in the language of international such rules – and no foreign company in Chi- country for which many New Zealanders feel 18_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_FEATURE/FREE TRADE imbued everyday Icelanders with the mythi- America) have plenty of interesting, practi- truth behind it. Many people who travel to the same bookshelf with the story of Lan- cal qualities of their first names, relies on the cal ideas that are worth knowing and learn- China aim at getting beyond the stereotypes cashire in the early 1800s, the north-eastern myth of the Land of the Vikings – where ev- ing about. And that means Indonesian pea- to make human contact with the “real” Chi- United States in the later 1800s, or Japan af- eryone believes in elves and speaks an an- nut sauce and Japanese red bean paste just na. In the same way, thoughtful travellers to ter World War II. Cities like Shenzhen have cient language of great wisdom and power.) as much as Chinese pot stickers or Peking America know that stereotypes of Americans sprawled from nothing to New York size in a But as the two German brothers in the 2000 duck. only apply to a minority. matter of two or three decades. Emigrants, movie Enlightenment Guaranteed find out Just as those with a Jewish identity do often young women, have arrived from the when they are put to work scrubbing floors China within Asia not automatically identify with Israel, not ev- Chinese countryside, and work 12 hours a at a Japanese monastery, we are all human, The cultural differences and relations be- eryone who is “Chinese” lives in or identifies day, six days a week, for $100 a month. They and Asian cultures, though different, are nei- tween Asian countries are as complex as with mainland China. So overseas Chinese live in company dormitories, eat in company ther more nor less spiritual than our own. those within Europe. China has a special can be as critical of mainland China as any- cafeterias, and overworked but reasonably I am often concerned when I hear stu- position in Asian history. In medieval times, one else. Singapore’s anti-spitting campaign, secure, assemble the goods that China sells dents speaking casually about plans to study when China was more powerful, many Chi- for example, was not just a way of cleaning to the world. Chinese. Spoken Mandarin is easy once you nese settled in other Asian countries. These up the city but also of symbolically distancing There’s no question that Iceland can figure out its four tones. But the writing sys- communities were prominent in business Chinese Singaporean customs from those in benefit from establishing more direct trade tem is an inefficient beast (which other Asian life, and in some cases enjoyed special favour mainland China. channels with China. It’s likely that Iceland countries have mostly abandoned and which from European colonial administrations. Sub- Many Asians feel they have worked hard can modestly increase its exports to China, Chinese schoolkids also find difficult). It takes stantial ethnic Chinese minority communities to create relatively tolerant, relatively open and that Icelandic investors can significantly two to three years of intensive study before still exist in countries like Thailand, Vietnam, societies and to develop sensible trade rela- increase their holdings in China. It’s impor- you can even begin to read a newspaper. Indonesia, Malaysia, and the Philippines. tions with the rest of the world. At one level, tant to have sensible political relations with Like studying any language, it’s a fascinat- China. Understanding Chinese culture is im- ing journey, but not one to be undertaken portant. lightly. You can make quicker progress in any other Asian language. ...But Location Still Matters To hook a customer, one doesn’t always I mentioned that Icelandic exports to China have to deliver tangible returns; sometimes totalled 2.75 billion krónur in 2006. That just expectations of returns are enough, and may have sounded like a lot. Here’s anoth- sometimes even expectations of others’ ex- er statistic: the same year’s exports to the pected returns. So before you drop every- Faroe Islands totalled 2.89 billion krónur. Ex- thing and get on the China bandwagon, or ports to the Faroes have outpaced exports any other, be an informed consumer: try to to China for many years running. China has find out whether there’s something real on twenty-five thousand times as many people offer, or you’re just a sucker in a buzzmakers’ as the Faroe Islands. But it is many times fur- scheme. ther away. We need to understand these sorts of Not the Only Asian Country numbers to avoid building castles in the air. In the grip of the China buzz, mainland As Stefán Úlfarsson put it, the “lack of criti- China starts to seem like the only country cal discussion about China in Iceland” has in Asia. But there are over 700 million East “probably played a role in Icelanders’ consid- Asians in countries like Malaysia, Thailand, erable gullibility towards unrealistic ‘miracle Korea, Singapore, and Japan, and roughly stories’ about the Chinese economy.” 1.2 billion in India, Nepal, and Bangladesh. Here are some more facts: Lithuania These countries are important business part- and Nigeria are bigger purchasers of Icelan- ners, outweigh China as a source of imports dic seafood than China. Japan is a far more to Iceland, offer considerable investment important export destination for Icelandic growth potential, and produce (on average) goods than China. And something like 70% higher-quality products. For example, Asian of Iceland’s trade is with Europe anyway. food importers in Iceland prefer to buy from Now that China is open again, it is likely Thailand, the Philippines, and Japan, not Especially after World War II, Asian coun- they welcome mainland China’s re-emer- to become a trade partner with Iceland of from China. tries promoted their indigenous languages, gence. But they also find its current swag- an importance proportional to its size and China is just one of the scenes on a religions and value systems at the expense ger in world politics slightly nauseating. The distance from us. That means that it is going broader Asian tapestry. The real long-term of Chinese culture. This process was com- sense is a little similar to the feeling some to be a significant partner, but surely never story is the two-way encounter between parable to the twentieth-century rollback of Europeans have towards a resurgent, ener- the biggest one, and probably one subject Asian and Euro-American cultures. Two hun- German-speaking influence in Eastern Eu- gy-rich Russia, which they feel has not really to relatively high geopolitical risk. I know this dred years ago, there were virtually no Asians rope, as countries like Poland and Hungary learned how to cooperate with its neigh- isn’t a really exciting conclusion – but hey, my in Europe or North America. Now people of promoted their own identities. The measures bours or behave responsibly on the world goal was to evaluate the buzz, not perpetu- Asian ancestry make up about 4% of Brit- used were often drastic. Thailand closed stage. ate it. ain’s population, about 5% in the United Chinese-language schools and made ethnic And that means that China’s prominence China’s high rate of manufacturing States, and closer to 10% in Canada. Iceland Chinese take Thai names. Indonesia passed a in Iceland’s foreign relations, given the well growth will continue for some time, but it is at around 1%, but already Southeast Asian law in 1959 forbidding Chinese to own busi- established Thai, Vietnamese, and Filipino will not last forever, just as Japan and Taiwan cooking has had a huge influence on us, to nesses. Tensions continue: in 1998, anti-Chi- immigrant communities here and our busi- matured as manufacturing centres. Iceland the point where fish sauce and coconut milk nese riots broke out in Jakarta. ness relations with other Asian countries, is in the North Atlantic, and will always be have become commodities that we buy in During the thirty years since the Cultural can start to come across a little as if Iceland closely tied to its closest neighbours: Europe, bulk at Bónus. Revolution, as mainland China has slowly re- was emphasising political and economic rela- Canada, and the United States. The encounter may be just beginning. Al- opened to the rest of the world, the image of tions with Russia at the expense of its historic So, here’s my advice. Go to China. Learn though Asia is far away, I can well imagine mainland China in other Asian countries has ties to Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. about it. Work with Chinese suppliers. It’s a that in fifty years Europeans will be eating been a less than positive one, of chain-smok- fascinating place. But keep in mind that the more Asian food, reading more Asian litera- ers with rude manners, who dress badly, China is Important... Great Wall of China is not visible from the ture, seeing more Asian movies, and using spit in public, and are suspicious of anything China has become one of the world’s most moon. And don’t forget to learn some Faro- more Asian design ideas than they do now. non-Chinese. In a way, the mainland Chinese important manufacturing centres and a ese. The three billion people in Asia (compared have been the Ugly Americans of Asia. This growing political power. The rise of China to less than one billion in Europe and North is a stereotype, of course, with only limited as a world manufacturing centre belongs on ExperienceIce-land The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of Easy Glacier Adventures for Everyone Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. 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Something Wort Hyping About Who Needs Oxygen, Anyways? The Cornell Challenge

Text by Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Photo by Gulli Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Gulli Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Leó Stefánsson

for school… the point at which you actually This marked the first time I’ve seen the Who: Franz Ferdinand stop going to school, and are forced to ask What: Sköllfest metalcore band Celestine live, and although Who: Chris Cornell Where: Nasa yourself: why are you fucking making music Where: TÞM I could see glimpses of excitement in their Where: Laugardalshöll When: September 14, 2007 if you pretend to hate it so much? When: September 11, 2007 aggressive delivery, I did not manage to connect When: September 8, 2007 When Franz Ferdinand finally took the with the band and found the whole thing The two-person mosh-pit gyrating to Jako- stage, casually dressed in a way that I think The second annual Skullfest festival will likely rather uninspired. As a live performer, Chris Cornell is an ontological challenge. bínarína’s Jesus was spilling beer onto the no one expected of such a glitzed-up name, be remembered as the year’s sweatiest show, Kimono stuck out like a sore thumb on this By all accounts, he is a grunge-god, a member of a selected club that crowd. It wasn’t their beer, they definitely two years of anticipation and expectations which is a good thing. bill. Their progressive indie rock sound, with lot includes him, Eddie Vedder and Kurt Cobain. But, as Cornell himself pointed didn’t look old enough to buy, but the man in bubbled to the surface of everyone’s mind in TÞM, the night’s venue, closely resembles of time-changes and off-beats, was a refreshing out, this show covered “a lot of songs, a lot of different albums, different the crisp grey suit with freshly groomed hair the sold-out venue. They kicked off with Cheat- a storage basement: four walls, no windows change of pace however. Kimono delivered bands, and a lot of different time periods.” and an even fresher beer in his hand had a ing On You, a song off of their premier album, and, as logic dictates – when you cram in more a great set, highlighted by two new songs As I watched him tear through songs from his rather industrious career, strangely bemused smile on his face as for the but seemed to have a hesitant, nervous glint than 200 people – no oxygen; the perfect that might cement their status as the most his early days with Soundgarden, the one-off Temple of the Dog record, third time the two pubescent boys slammed in their eyes. Every other song that followed setting for this kind of show really. interesting indie-rock band in the country. and a few Audioslave songs, I was forced to consider the question as to their sweaty bodies into his side. The beer was a newbie, a fresh Ferdinand being tested “I wanted to put on an ‘end of summer/back to By the time the next two bands had finished whether watching Chris Cornell and the session squad could recreate with splattered again over the dense crowd. out on Reykjavík before being taken into the school jam’ where I gather the most interesting their set, the already hot TÞM was positively some authenticity the feeling of seeing any of these bands live. It was a bizarre scene, as the jacket-clad studio, interwoven with the golden oldies, bands from the alternative music scene and steaming. So steaming, in fact, that the Through out his career, Cornell has been lucky enough to play with thirty-somethings began strutting onto the Michael, Matiné, Walk Away and then the bring together different styles of music for Grapevine photographer could no longer use some great musicians, in particular, guitarists with a unique style, such as standing room floor of NASA with a beer in one show’s pinnacle with Take Me Out, where at people to enjoy,” explained promoter and I the camera. First up were Philly, PA, hardcore Kim Thayil and Tom Morello, whose sound is not easily replicated. Would hand and their badly dressed up girlfriends on one moment the hundreds of people crowding Adapt’s singer Birkir. The goal was achieved, act Blacklisted who delivered an emotional it be the same without them? Or would the Chris Cornell entourage share the other. I wasn’t sure which stereotype was NASA were all jumping simultaneously. At ten for the most part, with varied acts representing and energetic performance that made me a similar fate as the latest reincarnation of Guns N’ Roses? more hateable, the businessmen pretending songs in, the band was still sizzling on stage, the furthest peripheries of the mainstream grid. remember why I think hardcore is important It turns out that the session squad (I can’t recall the name of a single to have an interest in ‘hip young people music’ and at the start of Darts of Pleasure, someone A night like this offers a great opportunity to to begin with. They were immediately followed group member, although Cornell took the effort to introduce them all twice) by securing a pair of the most hard-to-get actually threw a black lacy bra at singer Alex’s see what’s brewing beneath the surface. by Icelandic hardcore act I Adapt, who, despite did a good job with these songs. For the most part. It was mostly during tickets of the summer, or the too-cool-for- face. As if that wasn’t enough, the bra then Sadly delayed, I missed the opening act ripping the bass drum in the middle of their the delivery of songs from Soungarden’s Badmotorfinger, in particular the school punks spilling the beers they were too fell off his face and slipped perfectly onto the from Skítur entirely. I caught the tail end of set, set everyone’s ass on fire. This was possibly fast paced Jesus Christ Pose and Rusty Cage, that Thayil’s presence was young to buy. Either way, I suppose neither microphone, where it hung by one strap for the death-metal band Diabolus who displayed the best one-two punch I’ve witnessed since missed. The more traditional-riff based Outshined came through fine, and type was in the majority. They just happened the rest of the song. their authoritative metal mastery. The band is Gojira-Mínus at last year’s Airwaves. the night’s version of Slaves and Bulldozers was actually very cool. to be bumping into each other. The social At the end of the night a hearty encore fol- clearly influenced by the New-Canadian wave Metal veterans Drep did just what veterans Obviously, when Cornell performed songs of his two solo albums this commentary was writing itself. lowed. The two most clichéd names in Iceland- of death-metal and vocalist Egill has the tools should do, and played a very solid set of very was not a problem. And about halfway into the show, he emerged with an Jakóbínarína were gracing the stage look- ers’ recent music memory had just informally for the craft. Diabolus sound brutal – although solid metal music. Long time punk mainstays acoustic guitar and played a few songs solo, including an inspired version ing just as young and exploited as we’d all duked-it-out on stage, and who would have gore-ridden lyrics and song names usually make Dys, however, surprised everyone and premiered of Fell on Black Days. It was not a problem then either. In fact, I would have imagined, but had kicked off their set with thought that it would be the boys in Ferdinand me cringe – and it will be interesting to see a new song, the first one in over three years, loved to see him perform a solo set entirely. an undeniable and consuming energy, fuelled who proved that they were something worth how these youngsters move forward. adding to their arsenal of politically charged Another thing to keep in mind is that Chris Cornell has sole writing perhaps by a seeming enjoyment of the music hyping about. Retron is comprised of two guitarists and anarcho-punk sing-a-longs. That’s a joyous credits for almost every major song that Soundgarden released, besides they were making. Their apathetic and doped- a drummer who play instrumental hero-metal. occasion. writing most of the Temple of the Dog album, and contributing heavily to up-looking faces soon got the better of them, Riff after riff and blaring drums interlocked in Audioslave; so in a way these will always be his songs, regardless of who however, as their set slowly dwindled into a a metal symphony, I love the concept. I even he elects to play them with. well-rehearsed but tragically unconvincing bout loved listening to them for up to 15-minutes, So, was it a good show? Yes, it was actually. Cornell is a great singer, of angsty noise. Tragic, because the band has but after that it became redundant and I lost backed by a capable band, performing both new material and songs that obvious talent, which, I fear, will soon go to interest. On one song they added keyboards, have stood the test of time remarkably. But more than anything, it just made waste when they actually become too cool which added much needed diversity. me wish I had been old enough to see Soundgarden play in their heyday.

by the sea and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri :mXî^c\ Kdgd[[Zgh\gZVi[ddYXdbW^cZYlî]\ddY eg^XZhVcYVcndcZl]da^`ZhBZYîZggVcZVc \djgbZiXdd`^c\h]djaYXdbZk^hîi]ZcZl VcYZmXî^c\gZhiVjgVci# Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir

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BDC#ÄI=J#./(%Ä''/%%q;G>#./(%Ä%&/%%qH6I#&&/%%Ä%&/%%qHJC#&&/%%Ä''/%% News // Culture // Dining // Travelling // Shopping B7K=7L;=?(*r'&'H;OA@7LßArJ;B+,(()((rMMM$LEH$?I 22_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_TRAVEL/BELGIUM RVK_GV_15_2007_TRAVEL/BELGIUM_23 We don´t serve foreigners... because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that makes you feel at home. Tel: (+354) 483-3330, Eyrarbakki - South coast

initiatives have been set up to do just this. One such which apparently takes years to master. After walking initiative is The Youth for Europe Exchange set up by the narrow streets and admiring the canals, we stopped Belgium, an Unlikely Choice the European Union, which invites young Icelanders to at the Béquinages, a once enclosed convent-style (al- Oostduinkerke to take part in a cultural and historical though, less strict) community built during the Middle exchange with young Belgians in an attempt to foster Ages and designed to help unmarried women (many Text and photos by Zoë Robert interest in the history and to forge links between young men lost their lives fighting during this time, leading people of both countries. Many of the fishermen who to a shortage of men) meet their spiritual and material did not make it back alive were buried on Icelandic soil, needs while also providing them with a safe place to It is common knowledge, or, at least it should sion ran a mock breaking news bulletin “an- that the centre of European politics is having But it wasn’t that long ago when fishing while some of the survivors stayed on to live in Iceland. live. The Béquinages were the result of a semi-religious be common knowledge, that Belgium is home nouncing” that the Dutch speaking part of an identity crisis of its own. wasn’t so glamorous and fishermen had to Those that did built and decorated their houses with movement by women in Northern Europe who wanted to the best beer in the world. And, obviously, the country had declared independence and travel much further to fill their nets. Once the remains of the stranded fishing boats. to maintain a sense of independence. Although the site it’s famous for its delectable chocolate. That is as a result the king and queen had fled. Only A Fishy History Belgian fishermen sailed to Iceland to earn a But this region isn’t just about fishing. Belgium may is a major tourist attraction, the place continues to house probably why Brussels, the capital of Belgium, half an hour later did the station inform its The two-hour train journey from Brussels to living catching cod. Every Friday during July be one of the most densely populated and urbanised women. was chosen as home to both the European viewers that the whole thing was a hoax. But the beach resort town of Oostduinkerke in and August a “folkloric” evening is held at the countries in the world, but large areas have also been It’s clear that the tiny nation Belgium is definitely Union and NATO. Still, as a tourist destination, many people, including politicians and ambas- the southwest of the country passes contrast- National Fishery Museum in Oostduinkerke to dedicated to outdoor leisure, such as extensive cycling underrated on the international stage. The weather Belgium remains grossly underrated. When sadors abroad, had already fallen for the stunt. ing landscapes of medieval cities and open commemorate the history of local fishermen tracks. The notoriously flat countryside is perfect for the may not always be fantastic, but the country has a rich was the last time you heard of anybody who Criticism came from all sides, that is, apart farmland. While you’re unlikely to visit the going to sea. The event consists of a market sport, and it’s not uncommon for bicycles to outnumber history and its people are passionate about preserving went for a holiday to Belgium? from the separatist far-right Flemish Interest Oostduinkerke and its surrounding area for of traditional crafts and foods including ham- cars on the roads. The paths wind through peaceful tradition. For such a small country, Belgium offers in- party, which advocates Flemish independence. its stunning scenery, the area offers plenty mocks made from fishing net and hand woven farmland and small villages, but the highly organised credible diversity in everything from scenery to culinary Background: a Divided Nation The broadcaster later defended the program, of cultural activities. Its rich history also has baskets, similar to those which hang from each mapping and signing system allows you to cycle the delights to things to see and do. Why else would foreign Belgium is divided into two parts: Dutch speak- stating that it illustrated the importance of significant links to Iceland. Until 1995, local side of the shrimp fishermen’s saddles, and whole country with little navigational effort. And because diplomats, cycling-enthusiasts and beer-lovers be equally ing Flanders, and French speaking Walloon. the debate on the future of Belgium. But, for fishermen sailed to Iceland to work in the lu- local delicacies such as dried fish and other there are so many paths to choose from, you can cycle content on visiting? With three official languages, Dutch, French some, this longstanding issue is anything but crative cod-fishing industry. Today, the seaside seafood. Each week a band entertains the in relative solitude, even during peak holiday season. At and German (two parts speak Dutch, one a joke. resort town’s economy heavily relies on the crowd with folk songs, now mainly consisting least, that’s what I experienced. third speaks French and a small minority speak According to statistics, many Flemings many tourists who flock to the sandy beaches, of tourists. My evening there, the group sang German as a first language), you would expect support the independence of their region, lined with cafes and beach cabins, during the about the hardship of sailing to Iceland – the “Venice of the North” things to get complicated. But many people in but wouldn’t push for it if it came down to summer months. cold (some of the fishermen suffered from Most commonly referred to as the Venice of the North, Brussels, the only officially bilingual part of the it. Three months after Belgians went to the However, the fishing industry is also still frostbite), spending six months of the year the medieval and World Heritage listed city of Bruges In December last year Bel- country, speak both Dutch and French. polls, the country still doesn’t have a govern- visible. At low tide you can still catch shrimpmidi-concerts.pdf away from their 4/11/07 families, 10:55:30 and eating AM nothing lies a little inland from the West Coast. The impressive Waiting at Brussels North station for my ment, fuelling speculation by some that the fishermen on horseback dragging their nets but cod and potatoes. In the early years, fish- Old World architecture and canals are worth a visit in gian state television ran a train to the West Coast, where I would spend country is running into real trouble. While through the shallow waters off of the beach. ermen would also walk long distances to the themselves, that is, if you don’t mind sharing the tiny mock breaking news bulletin the majority of my stay, I got a sense of life independence isn’t an aim of any of the major These fishermen are one of the village’s tour- harbour where their boats were kept before streets lined with stores selling what else but pralines, in the multilingual capital. The newsstands parties in power, the economic gap between ism draw cards as they are supposedly the only setting sail north souvenirs of perhaps one of Belgium’s most famous “announcing” that the Dutch were filled with a generous choice of papers the wealthier Flanders and struggling Wallonia fishermen in the world to fish on horseback. The bodies of some of the fishermen who died exports – Tintin, and carts selling chips with mayon- in both Dutch and French and regular train has intensified discussions on the subject. The During peak season, they can be seen search- at sea in Iceland are buried in a small cem- naise, with hoards of other tourists. Finding less scenic, speaking part of the country departure announcements were also in both two regions have separate political parties ing the grey waters of the North Sea before etery next to the museum. While the younger but more charming, quaint cobble-stoned back streets had declared independence Dutch and French. Walk into a shop or a cafe and media, and have enjoyed self-rule since later cooking and selling their catch to hungry members of the festival’s crowd were using wasn’t too difficult, though. and you’re greeted in both languages. As one the 1980s. Along with economic, social and passers-by on the beach. The town celebrates the cemetery as a playground, much to the Bruges is famous for its handmade lace. A recently and as a result the king and of Europe’s main business centres, many expats cultural differences, these were among the its annual Shrimp Festival in late June, which disgust of some, the locals are generally keen aired program on Belgian television claimed that some of are among the office workers and students that reasons a group of 65 Flemish businesspeople includes a public shrimp fishing competition to honour and pass on the history of these the “locally-made” lace actually comes from China, an queen had fled. rush through the station, resulting in English and academics, which released a manifesto in and culminates in the crowning and procession men. Though the Amandine, the last trawler allegation that has the local lace makers in uproar. But also being widely spoken. 2005, argued their case for independence. In of the “shrimp queen”, the winner of the teen that sailed from Belgium’s coast to Iceland, some of the craft workshops welcome visitors interested In December last year Belgian state televi- the meantime, it does seem somewhat ironic pageant. arrived back in April 1995, many festivals and in viewing the women making the intricate lace, a skill

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This exciting new multimedia exhibition tells the story from an island’s dramatic �� birth from the depths of the Atlantic Ocean through its forty year history to the �� current day – and beyond, glimpsing the future 120 years hence. C

The exhibition explains the Government’s decision to submit an applicationM �� to UNESCO to designate Surtsey a World Heritage Site. Y �� CM

MY �� CY �� CMY

SURTSEY – GENESIS. EXHIBITION AT THE CULTURE HOUSE

The Culture House - Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11am and 5pm �� National Centre for Cultural Heritage Hverﬁ sgata 15, 101 Reykjavik The admission fee grants entry to all exhibitions at the Culture House. Adults ISK 300. Senior citizens ISK 200. Telephone 545 1400 www.thjodmenning.is Students ISK 200. Free entry for children 16 years of age or younger. Admission is free on Wednesdays. �� 24_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_THEN & NOW REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_DESTINATION_25

A Day at the Mall

Photo by Gulli

Everyone loves the mall. This has already been established and the video evidence made available by Kevin Smith. In the greater Reykjavík area, there are two malls worth visiting: Kringlan, located just outside Reyk- javík city centre and Smáralind in Kópavogur, which has acquired some international noto- riety for resembling male genitalia when seen from the air. (Guess which one is Smith’s favourite?) Like elsewhere in the world, in Iceland the mall is a world full of opportunities. With sufficient funds (or credit) there is no limit to how much fun there is to be had. Obviously there is a plethora of stuff to buy: clothes, electrical gadgets, CDs, or whatever else the mind desires. Even more important is the fact that shopping greases the wheels of economy, so really buying that awesome new phone that simultaneously allows instant text messaging, taking photos and talking while driving eventually serves the greater good. But going to the mall to shop is to miss the point entirely. The most exciting thing any Old buildings in Aðalstræti were renovated and new ones built in the same style at the beginning of the century. 2000/2007 mall has to offer is not the merchandise for sale, but the people who are there to buy it. The mall is the modern day equivalent of the ancient market square, where people gathered to enjoy each other’s company, make conversation, or in the case of Socrates, solve the riddles of philosophy. Many of his questions are still raised in the halls of the malls. So, go to the mall: it is your duty as a citizen and as a moral being.

Kringlan Kringlan 4-12, 103 Reykjavík Tel.: 568 9200, www.kringlan.is

Smáralind Hagasmári 1, 201 Kópavogur Tel.: 528-8000, www.smaralind.is

A must do for the visitor...

the SetTlement centre IN BORGARNES

Two unique exihbitions: The Settlement of Iceland and Egils saga

Open daily from 10 am to 7 pm RESTAURANT Open from 10 am to 9:30 pm

Tel: +354 437 1600 www.landnamssetur.is 26_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_DESTINATIONS one *ca. 50 km Get a taste of the best ...withof a little Iceland bit of spanish thrown in! Choose from over 70 courses, ranging from lobster and various 2 types of fish to icelandic lamb in the greatest of atmosphere. A must try is our famous puffin with blueberry and “brennivín” sauce.

6 Þingvellir If this is not your first-time in Iceland you’ve probably made a trip to the Þingvellir National Park already. If not, you should definitely take 7 a day tour to this oldest national park in the country, founded in 1928. A place of great 8 significance to Icelanders due to its role in the country’s history, the park is a protected national heritage and is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 930, Alþingi, the oldest parliament in the world, was established at 3 Þingvellir. Other historically important events took place here as well, for example the 1 4 adoption of Christianity in 1000 and the celebration of Iceland’s independence in 1944. 5 Understandably, there are numerous historical sites and buildings to explore and marked paths will lead the way. You will be able to explore old ruins, an ancient drowning pool (Drekkingarhylur) where women who had children out of wedlock were drowned for 9 their crime, and the Þingvellir church. The park, with the country’s largest lake, Þingval- lavatn, as its centrepiece, is renowned for its natural attractions such as Almannagjá fis- sure and Öxarárfoss waterfall. Photos by Thorsten Henn and Skari *distance from Reykjavík in kilometres. two ca. 480 km three ca. 50 km four ca. 120 km five ca. 50 km Iceland’s only authentic Tapas-Bar Tel:551-2344 • Email:[email protected] Address: Vesturgata 3b • 101 Reykjavík

Álafoss - outlet Álafossvegur 23 Þingvellir Mosfellsbær (C.a 16 km away from Húsavík Akranes Gullfoss Garður Reykjavík on the road The fishing town Húsavík, which sits at the A town of 6,000 people, Akranes is only a When the gushing white Hvítá river runs into Located on the northern part of the Reyk- Mosfellsbær to Þingvellir) shore of Skjálfandi bay, has been experi- 35-minute drive from the capital. a canyon in the southwest, it creates Gullfoss janes peninsula, the small community Garður encing a great increase in tourism in recent Two Irish brothers settled the town in 880 (or Golden Falls), one of the most popular is only a ten-minute drive from the Keflavík Open: years. The biggest draw for travellers is the and today the townspeople celebrate the tourist attractions in Iceland. The waterfall international airport. The town’s trademark is fact that the Skjálfandi bay is known for be- settlement annually with a family festival has a series of three steps, with each drop the two old lighthouses down by the coast Mondays - Fridays ing an excellent whale-watching spot and called the Irish Days, taking place on July 6 to greater than the next. Where the trail meets which offers a great panoramic view over the 9:00 - 18:00 many companies offer daily whale-watching 8 this year. Activities for visitors are varied and the falls, the volumes of the wide Hvítá can Faxaflói bay. The coastline also happens to be Saturdays excursions from the harbour. Visitors should range from exploring interesting museum ex- be witnessed plunging about 32 meters into a an excellent bird-watching spot. As Garður is 9:00 - 16:00 also check out the Whale Museum, located hibitions in the Garðar area, sunbathing on relatively obscured canyon. Fortunately, plans an old fishing village, a museum dedicated by the harbour. The museum was founded in the town’s famous sand beach Langisandur to utilise the fall for energy were dropped a to fish processing, The Garður Folk Museum, Grafarvogur - Bridge - Grafarholt 1997 and provides information on cetaceans or relaxing in the public park Garðalundur, long time ago. A trip to the spectacular Gull- was established in 1995 and features a col- and Iceland’s whaling history. The Húsavík a spacious area with lakes, trees and a large foss is generally included with any “Golden lection of old boat engines, fishing gear and Reykjavík church, which is one of the oldest wooden playground for the children. Circle” package. other historical items. churches in Iceland, is also worth a look. Álafoss

Laugavegur 1 Skólavörðustígur

Laugavegur six ca. 490 km seven ca. 700 km eight ca. 600 km nine ca. 190 km Reykjavík - City Center

Open: In summer: Every day 9:00 - 22:00 Bankastræti

In Winter: Lækjargata Mondays - Fridays Austurstræti 10:00 - 18:00 Saturdays Mývatn Lagarfljót Askja Vík 10:00 - 14:00 Lake Mývatn, created by an eruption more Just as the Scottish have folklore about the One of the country’s majestic volcanoes, The small coastal village Vík í Mýrdal is the than 2000 years ago, is one of the larg- nightmarish Loch Ness monster who dwells the caldera Askja has erupted several times southernmost town in the country and con- est lakes in the country, covering about 37 in the depths of the great Loch Ness, so the over the last centuries. Surrounded by the tains many interesting sights to explore. The square kilometres and surrounded by unique Icelanders have their own haunting sea crea- Dyngjufjöll Mountains, Askja is an active vol- town’s natural surroundings offer attractions landscape. One of the most popular tourist ture. “Lagarfljótsormurinn” is a lake monster cano, which was declared a natural monu- such as green meadows, expansive sand des- spots in the country, the vast volcanic area according to east Icelandic folklore, who stirs ment in 1978. A powerful eruption in 1875 erts, glaciers and glacial rivers and only min- is rich with a striking scenery, diverse fauna, in the depths of the Lagarfljót lake, near the changed the scenery immensely, forming the utes away from town is Dyrhólaey, a long pre- varied birdlife, numerous small islets and eastern hub of Egilsstaðir. A tourist boast by large blue lake Öskjuvatn, right in the middle served promontory stretching from the coast Since 1896 Take the warmth hordes of extremely annoying midges, which the same name cruises the lake and features of the caldera. The 220 metre deep lake is and out into the ocean. The area is rich with the lake draws its name from. The lake and special tours and on-board banquets. Nearby the deepest one in Iceland. The same explo- birdlife and picturesque views and while hik- with you! its surrounding wetlands and lava fields are a is Hallormsstaðarskógur, which is the largest sion created the volcanic crater Víti containing down to the town’s beautiful black sand nature reserve. The area boasts endless sight- forest in the nation. ing a geothermal warm lake where bathing beach you can view the large Reynisdrangar

Wool & Souvernir Shop www.alafoss.is Design: Sjáaldur auga míns 2006 / Photo: Hallgrímur Kristinsson seeing options as well as good services and is quite popular. Just beware of the slippery rock pillars in the near distance. facilities for travellers. slopes leading down to the ‘pool’. 28_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_DESTINATION REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE 15_2007_LOCATION_29

The Saga Museum I have always thought that the Photo by Gulli old radiotelegraph office by Suðurgata is the most beautiful In the Saga Museum in Perlan it all starts at the building in Reykjavík. It does very basic beginning; it begins with the land, with lava and with rocks. With a very fancy not hurt that it stands between mp3 player and headphones in my ears, I am Árni Magnússon Institution, being prepared for a thirty-minute overview of Iceland’s story. The whole thing, or up through where the old Icelandic manu- the Sagas at least. Starting with the lava. scripts are kept, and Háskólabíó The museum tackles seventeen points of interest about Icelandic history, spanning religion, cinema, where the La Grande commerce, trade, war, illness and more. The Bouffe by Marco Ferreri was exhibit highlights important historical figures, such as literary, religious, and war heroes, as screened over 30 years ago. well as tackling economic, cultural and political phenomenon, such as the once popular swamp iron smelting, and the creation of Alþingi, Iceland’s first government. Bragi Ólafsson used to play bass for The The figures used in the museum are silicone Sugarcubes. Today he is an award winning casts of real models, chosen for their supposed author. likeness to the historical figures which other- wise have no physical depiction on historical record. The process was developed by Ernst Backman and creates an amazingly alive re- presentation of figures long, long dead. The museum also talks at length about the origin of Icelanders and especially of the first Icelandic women settlers, most of whom were of Celtic origin, kidnapped from Ireland of the mostly Nordic Vikings. Other important stories that are lodged in the conscious of every Icelander - such as that of Egill Skallagrímsson, the most famous, and violent, poet of the Saga age - are brought to life with startling authenticity. The exhibit is surely as enthusing a visit for Icelanders as it is for visitors discovering Iceland’s sagas for the first time. VÞ

Perlan, Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík, www.saga- museum.is Open daily from 10-18 through September, 1000 ISK for adults CD available in Icelandic, English, German, French, and Swedish

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The Reykjavík City Police has been cracking down on public urination lately. If you need to use the toilet, use the toilet, or else pay the penalty. Photo by Gulli

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ISSUE FIFTEEN: SEPTEMBER 21 - OCTOBER 04 YOUR FREE COPY

Stuffed with stuff !!! (US), múm, Bloc Party (UK), It is common knowledge, or, at least it should be common knowledge, that Chromeo (CA), Deerhoof (US), Belgium is home to the best beer in the world. The Grapevine goes to Belgium. Mugison, Trentemöller (DK), Page 22

Lots of bands don’t sell of Montreal (US), GusGus, any CDs at all, instead making all their money from concerts. Grateful The Bronx (US), Mínus, Dead is a good example, and Prince is a more recent one. Lay Low, Buck 65 (CA), Gerd Leonhard explains the future of music. Amiina, Ampop, Annuals (US), Benni Hemm Hemm, Bonde do Role (BR), Changer, Page 6 Cut off Your Hands (NZ), Dikta, The Duke Spirit (UK), FM Belfast, Forgotten Lores, Eberg, Friendly Fires (UK), Gavin Portland, Ghostigital, Grizzly Bear (US), Hafdis Grapevine staffers put Huld, Heavy Trash (UK), Hjaltalín, I Adapt, Jagúar, Jakobínarína, Jan Mayen, Jeff Who?, their heads together to se- Khonnor (US), Jenny Wilson (SE), Kira Kira, Lali Puna (DE), Late of the Pier (UK), lect a few interesting titles Leaves, Loney, Dear (SE), Motion Boys, Ms John Soda (DE), My Summer as a Salvation from the festival’s exten- Soldier, Ólöf Arnalds, Pétur Ben, Plants & Animals (CA), Ra Ra Riot (US), Retro sive program. It turned to Stefson, Reykjavík!, Seabear, Sign, Singapore Sling, Skakkamanage, be even more challenging Skátar, Sprengjuhöllin, Steed Lord, The Teenagers (FR/UK), Ultra Mega than getting five people to agree on pizza topping. Technobandið Stefán, Ungdomskulen (NO), The Reykjavík International Film /7oi, > 3 Svanhvít, 1985!, Æla, Alræði Öreiganna, Asli, Atomstation, Audio Improvement, B. Sig, Ben Frost, Festival is soon. Benny Crespo’s Gang , Bertel, Best Fwends (US), Beteley, Biogen, Bloodgroup , Bob Justman, Bobby Breiðholt , BonSom, Page B6 Bootlegs, Borko, Boys in a Band (FO), Brain Police, Búdrýgindi, Cliff Clavin, Cocktail Vomit, Computer Club (UK), Coral, Dark Harvest, Dimma, DJ Kalli, Detect (FR), Djezus, Dr. Spock, Drep, Dýrðin, Ég, Eilífur, Electroll, Elíza, The End, Enkidu, Envy of Nona, Esja, ET Tumason, Ewok, Fabúla, Fjallabræður, For a Minor Reflection, Foreign Monkeys, Frost (NO), Future Future, The Ghost (FO), Grasrætur, Fluokids (FR), Gordon Riots, Gossi , Hairdoctor, Helgi Valur As a live performer, Chris & The She-males, Hellvar, Hestbak, Hoffman, Hooker Swing, Hraun, Jack Schidt, Jezebel, Johnny & The Rest, Cornell is an ontological Johnny Sexual, Jónas Sigurðsson, Kalli, Kasper Björke (DK) , Kenya, Kimono, Klassart, Lada Sport, Leaf (SE), Leópold, Lights on the Highway, Mammút , Mala & Sgt Pokes (UK), Markús Bjarnason, Martyn (NL) , Mental Overdrive (NO), Miri, challenge. Momentum, Mountain Zero, Moonbootica (DE), Morðingjarnir, Mr. Silla & Mongoose, The Musik Zoo, Múgsefjun, Sveinn Birkir Björnsson saw Chris Cornell in Motorfly, Naflakusk, The Nanas, Nilfisk, Noise, Nr. Núll, O.N.E., Óli ofur, Orang Volante / Panoramix, Our Lives, concert and thought of philosophy. Original Melody, Patrick Chardronnet (DE), Perfect Disorder, Pikknikk, Plúseinn, Póetrix, Prinzhorn Dance School (UK), Perla, President Bongo (GusGus DJs), Radio LXMBRG (SE), Rafhans 021, Raychem, Receptors (US), Retron, Page 21 Rökkurró, Rhondda and the Runestones, Roxy Cottontail (US), Royal Fortune, Rúnar Þórisson, Sam Amidon (US), Samúel J. Samúelsson, Sesar A, Severed Crotch, Shadow Parade, Shogun, Sickbird, Single Drop, Slow Club (UK), Smoosh (US), Snake And Jet’s Amazing Bullit Band (DK), Social (SE), Solid Gold (US), Sólstafir, Sometime, Soundspell, South Coast Killer Band, Stafrænn Hákon, Stairplex (FR), Stereo Hypnosis, Strigaskór nr. 42, Subliminal, Everyone loves the mall. Sudden Weather Change, Sverrir Bergmann, The Telephatetics , Terrordisco, The Tremolo Beer Gut (DK/SE), This has already been Theatre Fall (SC), Thor, Thundercats, Tied & Tickled Trio (DE), Tim Pogo (US) , Toggi, Tonik , Trassar, Úlpa, established and the video Valgeir Sigurðsson, Van of Two, Védís, Vicky Pollard, The Viking Giant Show, VilHelm, We Made God, Weapons, evidence made available Who Knew, Worm is Green, Wulfgang, XXX Rottweiler, The Zuckakis Mondeyano Project. by Kevin Smith. The mall, the place to be. Page 25

TÓNLEIKASTAÐIR MIÐASALA BAKHJARLAR Armband á hátíðina kostar 7.900 kr. í 17 - 21 October 2007 I am planning to stay in Listasafn Reykjavíkur - september, og hækkar eftir það í 8.500 Hafnarhús, Gaukurinn, kr. Það veitir aðgang að öllum tónleikum the wilderness for more hátíðarinnar. Airwaves armband fæst í NASA, Lídó, Organ, verslunum Skífunnar (Laugavegi, Kringlunni & than one month. Smáralind), BT á landsbyggðinni og á » midi.is. SAMSTARFSAÐILAR Grand rokk, Barinn Framkvæmd Iceland Airwaves 2007 er í The Lonesome Traveller leaves höndum Hr. Örlygs í samvinnu við Icelandair & & Iðnó. Reykjavíkurborg. town, again. Auk þess munu fleiri viðburðir og tónleikar fara fram í Fríkirkjunni, Bláa lóninu, Norræna húsinu, plötuverslunum, » www.icelandairwaves.com. Page 14 kaffihúsum og börum í miðborginni. » www.myspace.com/icelandairwaves