THENEW FACE OF

A Nerdfest of Epic Propotions • All the Ways Teen Cult has Gone Wrong Disecting the Liberal Propaganda • A Literary Discussion (of Epic Proportions)

Complete City Guide and Listings: Map, Info, Music, Arts and Events Issue 18 / 1 2006 - 11 2007 P_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_YEAR_4_DECEMBER_1_JANUARY_11 Articles The Reykjavík Grapevine crew

06 There is no Such Thing as a Safe Bet in Filmmaking The Reykjavík Grapevine An interview with director Baltasar Kormákur Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is 08 A Short History of Poles in [email protected] Jan Kargulewicz finds how are embracing the Poles Published by: Fröken ehf.

10 Youth is Wasted on the Young Editorial Office Basshunter brings out the worst in the youth +354 540-3600 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding editorial content. 12 Immigrants – Pandora’s Box in Iceland A column by Toshiki Toma Marketing Office +354 540-3605 / [email protected] 14 Simply Speaking for inquiries regarding advertising, marketing, distribution A column by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson and subscriptions.

20 How to Conduct Your Icelandic Christmas Publisher’s Office A guide to all our Christmas customs +354 540-3601 / [email protected] for inquiries regarding this publication. 27 Nordic Gods Alive in Reykjavík An interview with Jörmundur Ingi The Reykjavík Grapevine Staff Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] 28 A Christmas Flood of Books and Noah’s Freezer Trawler Editor: Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Some Icelandic literary figures discuss the Icelandic landscape Assistant Editor: Steinunn Jakobsdóttir / [email protected] Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 30 Icelandic Hockey Suffers for Lack of Ice Support Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / [email protected] The Grapevine explores the hockey culture Art Director: Gunnar Þorvaldsson / [email protected] Photographer: Óskar Hallgrímsson / [email protected] Staff Journalists: Haukur Magnússon / [email protected] Features Virginia Zech / [email protected] Sales staff: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] 16 You Can Take My Life, But You’ll Never Take My Freedom! Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] The Grapevine goes to an EVE Online Fanfest Staff Assistant: Jóhanna F. Sæmundsdóttir / [email protected] Distribution: Sæmundur Þ. Helgason / [email protected] 18 Faulty Logic, Half-truths and Innuendos Proofreader: Erika Wolfe The Liberal Party Fans the Flames of Xenophobia Cover photo by: Gulli On cover: Ingi Phuoc Du as Ketkrókur (Meat Snatcher) Music & Nightlife Make-up: Auður Valdís Grétarsdóttir Costume provided by the National Museum of Iceland. 22 An Appreciated Invasion of Flying Stars and Inflated Santas Special thanks to Gallerí Kjöt. Sufjan Stevens wows his fans at Fríkirkjan Printed by: Prentsmiðja Morgunblaðsins printing press 23 Reconnect and Eventually Triumph # copies: 30.101 A nostalgic reunion show at Laugardalshöll The Reykjavík Grapevine can be found in: Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík and at key locations around road 24 CD Reviews #1 and at all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres.

Are you planning an event? Do you want to tell us something? Outside Reykjavík Send a press release to: [email protected] We are always looking for articles. Send your submissions to: [email protected] 32 Swim Naked and Sing Your Heart Out in Helsinki The Grapevine goes to Finland Are you interested in working for the Reykjavík Grapevine (or the other way around)? contact: [email protected]

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From the Editor’s Chair

As the holiday spirit consumes me, let ruptcy by blaming foreigners for every We also put you on the scene of the me present my early Christmas present conceivable future problem the country third EVE Online Fanfest, a nerdy gath- to you: Dear Readers, an all new look to might eventually run into. Their dis- ering of epic proportions, on the scene your favorite magazine, The Reykjavík course does nothing but show-off their of the Sugarcubes’s reunion, on the Grapevine. With the publication stand- complete moral and ideological bank- scene with Sufjan Stevens, and bring ing at a juncture, this being our 51st is- ruptcy. As much as the Liberal Party has you all the right reasons for why teen- sue, we thought this would be an excel- tried to deny it, they have firmly placed agers should be locked up between the lent time to change things up a bit. themselves in the company of Jean-Ma- age of 16 to 21. I am also proud to announce: An rie Le Pen, Jurg Haider and Christoph Other cool stuff we did last month? aluminium smelting plant, a heavily Blocher. We now have our very own, We swam naked in Helsinki, and disputed dam-project (built to power Guðjón Arnar Kristinsson. danced with the Christmas Cat. Yes, we said aluminium smelting plant), and the This issue’s feature reveals some of live dangerously and, curiously enough, Icelandic northwest’s capital are among the most blatant propaganda in the Lib- live to tell the tale – over and over again the places that The Reykjavík Grapevine eral Party’s discourse. As much as this – for your amusement. will claim as its own as of this issue and should be an unnecessary act, serious Drink, be merry, and enjoy the fes- onwards. I am of course talking about attempts by the Icelandic media to call tivities. We’ll see you all again in the the Kárahnjúkar dam-site, Reyðarfjörður the Liberal Party on their B.S. have been New Year (those of you using the Gre- smelting plant Fjarðarál, and legendary lacking or unsuccessful. gorian calendar at least, after all, we are home to Mugison and the Mudball On a lighter note, and in spirit of a multicultural magazine). And Happy tournament alike, Ísafjörður. the season, we also bring you a how-to Holidays to you all. The issue of immigration has guide for all things Christmas, from eat- weighed heavily on people in the last ing out, gift shopping and decorations, few weeks. The Liberal party has re- to the most in-depth discussion of this sponded to their own political bank- year’s Christmas book titles. 0_RVK_GV_ISSUE18_2006_LETTERS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_NEWS_0

Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík. News in Brief Dear Grapevine Readers, rity has been the largest group of sit in Iceland was with without in- The past weeks media reports immigrants in Iceland for the past cident. There was only one person Text by Haukur Magnússon, Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, Steinunn Jakobsdóttir and Virginia Zech have been overwhelmed by the years, still is, and it’s growing. I am who remarked how much they lo- immigration issue in Iceland. So writing in particular about the Po- ved black people’s teeth because far the only beneficiary of this talk lish, as for many in Iceland it is sy- they were so white. As this state- Pilots To Bypass Iceland CAMB’s statement closes by saying that it not be used to spread fear, distrust and racism soon became apparent that Shomr’s visit had is the “Liberal Party” which gained nonimous to the new EU members ment was made in a way that was The Sea Shepherd Conservation Society is is the movement’s sincere hope that their in our society. We have seen many examples been rushed in anticipation of the protest, a noticeable rise of supporters in which is also their biggest fear. At meant to be a compliment, I wasn’t asking pilots and owners of private jets to requests will be met with the fullest regard from abroad where racists have used a wor- the hundred or so (as estimated by Reykja- the recent poll conducted for Frét- the same time the unemployment offended – though it did make me consider by-passing Iceland as a fuel stop “[…] so as to avoid Icelandic government of- thy cause or concern to catch a few votes. All vík police) peaceful protestors were in good tablaðið (it’s worth mentioning rate in Iceland has been constantly feel like a horse, and I did refrain until Iceland agrees to cease illegal whaling ficials participation in a meeting that will pre- negative discourse on a religion or race harms spirits, sporting banners and signs bearing that according to the previous poll dropping or being at the mini- from smiling with my lips parted. activities. sumably be used to plan criminal activities.” our society and adds to division within it.” slogans such as “Free Palestine”, “Israel = from last August the party could mum. This gives me and many But, that’s beside the whole point. According to Captain Paul Watson, Presi- Morgunblaðið has since the discussion Terrorist State” and “Down With The Wall” count on merely 2% of votes). The others non-economists an obvious Thank God for Gabriele. Please dent of Sea Shepherd, the idea to came from arose reported that about 7,000 foreigners as the diplomats conversed inside. After her discussion is on the move, howe- message: the Icelandic economy keep her on board. Sea Shepherd supporter and former eBay ‘Liberal Party’ Pushes Immigration Is- have entered the Icelandic job market this meeting with Sverrisdóttir, Shomr reportedly ver very little concerning the fo- is growing, allowing more invest- President Jeff Skoll. “Many private planes re- sues to the Forefront year and that a majority of Icelanders is in exited out the ministry’s back entrance and reigners policy in Iceland has been ments, it creates more jobs and April Dobbins fuel in Iceland on their way to Europe. It is November saw an onslaught of political favour of a multicultural society. Another re- thus avoided facing the angry crowd. done apart from an unfortunate at the end a need for immigrants Visit me at: a fairly sizeable business for Iceland. I have debate in Iceland regarding remarks made port citing the Reykjavík police department According to a Morgunblaðið report, wave of xenophobia and racism that can support this rising trend. www.myspace.com/april_the_ar- already notified Icelandic authorities that I by members of “The Liberal Party” on the stated that there are no indications of a rise Sverrisdóttir handed a formal letter of protest (especially towards the Polish mi- In conclusion to this matter i want tist or www.apriltheartist.blogs- will not be stopping there anymore unless explosive issue of immigration. In an article in foreigners’ criminal activities. to the Israeli ambassador, which she is meant nority) flooded over the Icelandic to highlight that it is not my Polish pot.com they renounce their new whaling policy and published in Blaðið entitled ‘Iceland for Ice- to deliver to Israeli Minister of Foreign Affairs society. The dreadful headlines national pride or high self-esteem I have been reaching out to others with pri- landers?’, the struggling party’s latest addi- Tzipi Livni. The letter supposedly condemns or major articles about foreigners that tells me that Polish people We are quite pleased with her as vate planes to do the same,” said Skoll. tion, Supreme Court lawyer Jón Magnússon, Iceland Has Second Most Developed the attacks on Beit Hanoun while acknowl- have been adding fuel to the fire. must be reliable, hard-working well, and her teeth. Other notable names that have accepted voiced his concerns about what he perceives Humans! Highly Indebted, Too edging Israelis’ right to defend themselves. The opponents of free labour and professional workers but the Sea Shepherd’s challenge include film pro- to be a ‘relentless stream of foreigners’ to Iceland comes in a close second to Norway Morgunblaðið quotes Sverrisdóttir as saying movement are concerned that number of Polish nationals wor- ducer Bob Yari, whose film Crash recently Iceland and calls for a tougher immigration in the field of “High human development” that while further action on the Icelandic such a big influx of foreigners can king in Iceland (it is said about 10 To whom it may concern: won an Academy Award for Best Picture. law. in the recently released 2006 edition of The government’s behalf were possible, severing endanger jobs of Icelanders, since thousand) and the number of Ice- My name is Laura de la Garza and Yari said he is involved with aviation and In the piece, Magnússon emphasises United Nations Human Development Report. political ties with the state was out of the the foreigners are untruly thought landic employers that are satisfied I’m writing to you all the way from other jet pilots, and will promote this stance that he has “[…] nothing against Poles or Various factors are taken into account when question. to agree to work underpaid. Here with the work and want to employ Mexico, to respectfully urge to any chance he gets. other Christians from our part of the world. deciding the rank, among those the preva- it is – something I do not actually even more Polish people. stop the cruel massacre of whales Shell’s manager for jet fuel sales, For example, I really like Danes, Swedes and lence of AIDS, tuberculosis, smoking and understand. Why do those people I hope that any further discus- in your country. Your country, in ­Þorsteinn Pétursson, had not heard of the Norwegians […]. If you try and fight the in- condom use. The report defines “Human de- Hydro Planning a Super Smelter? want to put the whole responsibi- sion about foreigners, immigrants, addition with Norway is the only initiative when the Grapevine contacted him. creased stream of immigrants to the country, velopment” as being “[…] first and foremost Jón Sigurðsson, the Minister of Industry and lity for this on foreigners? How can New Icelanders will not change a country that openly hunts whales He said the company had yet to detect any that has nothing to do with disrespecting about allowing people to lead a life that they Commerce in Iceland, met with representa- they think that the foreigners who very positive perception of forei- for commercial purposes. reduction in fuel sales. However, he feared other nations or racial prejudice.” He goes value and enabling them to realise their po- tives of the Norwegian energy and aluminium are applying for a job in Iceland gners in Iceland that has been so Although the mails you are that if the initiative would be successful, on to say that he would not want to see tential as human beings,” and it’s goals as company, Norsk Hydro, last month, where from their home countries know far among Icelanders. I hope eve- sending in response to our pro- there was a good reason to assume that a Muslims immigrate to Iceland, and that the “[…] reducing extreme poverty, extending the company’s new North Atlantic office in about minimal wages, workers´ ri- ryone agrees that Iceland needs test say that you will not kill en- reduction would follow. country now faces “[…] the greatest threat gender equality and advancing opportunities Reykjavík was the subject for discussion. ghts and union agreements? They foreigners to sustain its economic dangered species, that is not true. “I do take the threat seriously, but I guess an independent Icelandic nation and Icelan- for health and education.” After Iceland, the Norsk Hydro is among the largest inte- take what they have been offered, status. I hope Icelanders like thin- Already 7 Fin Whales have been only time can tell how successful the initia- dic culture has thus far seen.” top five reads: Australia, Ireland and Sweden, grated aluminium suppliers in the world supposing they like it. Another king of themselves as a multicultu- murdered, and this IS an endange- tive will be. There is not much we can do The party’s Vice President, Magnús Þór respectively. and was one of the companies that took group are people who come here ral society. I hope the government red species. as sellers. We are simply being affected by Hafsteinsson, followed Magnússon’s lead An altogether less-pleasing report was part in planning the aluminium smelter in to look for work. Without a proper understands that some steps have I know that killing whales is a larger effort to bypass Iceland in a kind of and continues to echo similar sentiments in released by international credit rating agency Reyðarfjörður. Hydro later on withdrew their knowledge of the native language to be taken soon to accommo- not necessary for the survival of unofficial trade sanction.” talk shows and blog posts, stating that he Fitch Ratings yesterday, in which the compa- interest in the smelter, but after yesterday’s and your rights how you can know date the natural need of the so- any of the citizens in your country, is concerned with increased unemployment, ny affirmed the Icelandic national treasury’s visit in Iceland, the company seems to be if you are not being cheated or ciety to integrate immigrants with and many times their meat is only faltering wages and a rise in crime and pov- positive credit rating while warning that out- showing interest in even bigger aluminium used by your employer? And the Icelanders. I hope that the recent used as fertilizer or pet food. Peace Movement Calls for Injunction erty following unregulated immigration. In a look for Iceland’s credit rating was bleak. projects in Iceland in the future. circle closes. Is not it the responsi- outburst of xenophobia and ra- There is a significant difference Against Icelandic Government recent blog post, he stated that he had re- Pointing out that Iceland was the most heav- In an interview with RÚV yesterday, Tor- bility of the local and government cism is only a momentary side ef- between commercial whaling and Friday November 24, Icelandic peace move- ceived tremendous support from Icelanders ily indebted sovereign nation that Fitch had sten Dal Sjøtveit, the executive vice president authorities, the workers´ unions to fect of the “Liberal Party” aggres- the aboriginal hunting of whales ment Campaign Against Military Bases since the debate started. rated, and that, along with heavy industry of Norsk Hydro, stated that the company control the labour laws and wor- sive campaign. for strictly subsistence purposes. (“Samtök Herstöðvaandstæðinga”) pre- “The Liberal Party”, formed in 1998, cur- projects that upset the country’s social stabil- was interested in building a new aluminium kers´ rights? Especially of those It is shameful that a beautiful sented Reykjavík police authorities with a rently has three MPs and has thus far mostly ity and changes in the local housing market, smelter with an output of 600,000 tons in who are most vulnerable, that is With a lot of hope, country as Iceland, considered for claim for an injunction on Icelandic Prime been known for its stance against Icelandic gave cause for future concern. Iceland, 250,000 tons larger than Alcoa’s the foreigners? Joanna Dominiczak us as one of the craddles of civili- Minister Geir Haarde and Minister of Foreign fishing regulations. In a statement, the par- The report adds that unstable financial smelter in Reyðarfjörður. Another point I want to focus zation, would choose to join Japan Affairs Valgerður Sverrisdóttir’s participation ty’s manager, Margrét K. Sverrisdóttir, em- markets made the local economy vulnerable As a result of news coverage, the Minis- on is the free movement of people We hope so too. or Norway in wastefully exploiting in a NATO Head of State and Government phasised that the party is mostly concerned to outside effects, such as a change in for- try of Industry and Commerce saw fit to issue and labour within the EU and EFTA the great whales. summit set to take place in Riga, Latvia, next with how the Icelandic governmental system eign interest rates, and that a rise in foreign a press release in which all plans for Hydro’s countries. 8 of 10 new members of What kind of world are we week. is prepared to handle the increased flow of investment fuelled by foreign short-term mar- possible smelter are denied, adding that no the EU were granted that freedom Good Lord Grapevine! I’ve died going to leave for our children. A statement issued by the movement immigrants, and the effects unhindered im- ket loans added to the problem. Therefore it impending projects were discussed at the in Iceland on May 1st 2006. I am and gone to heaven. There is a Please, act up to the country claims that such an injunction is completely migration will have on the nation’s native should be concluded that a stable economy meeting. not sure if Icelanders realise what black woman writing columns on you’ve been and stop this shame- justified since the summit will, among other work force. This should be discussed without for Iceland is still a while away from being re- it practically means for us – peo- her life as a new Icelander! I’m so ful killing. topics, deal with further military actions in outcries of racism, she said. “I furthermore alised. However, political stability, the strong ple from those countries. Basically out of sorts that I am using exces- Afghanistan, which the movement feels are repeat that The Liberal Party does not ap- status of government finances and a floating Reykjavík Celebrates Buy Nothing Day it means less bureocracy, both for sive exclamation marks! You see, Respectfully, in violation of several international treaties prove of people being discriminated against exchange rate weighed against the fact in November 25 marked the opening of Reykja- employees and employers. Now I was in Iceland once too. It has Laura de la Garza and family that Iceland has committed to. Furthermore, because of their religious beliefs. Therefore, the sovereign rating balance. vík’s only known “free shop” – the odd type we are not bound to work for always been a place of interest Mexico City the movement claims that NATO’s military those who say that only Christians should of store that does not accept currency of any the same employer until the end to me. But, I found in my prepa- actions are said to be in violation of“[…] the get a visa here and not people that belong kind – which will be operated until Christ- of the contract, we can quit and ration for the journey, there was You have a point there – consider foundation for basic human rights, the right to other religions do not have a place in Icelanders Protest Israeli Attacks on mas. Located in the basement of Laugavegur change a job for a better offer, NOTHING on what to expect as it passed on. Killing whales isn’t to life, secured by the Icelandic constitu- our party. The notion that The Liberal Party Beit Hanoun café Kaffi Hljómalind, the store is meant to we can apply for the first work a black woman (pnly that whole cool. We hope you also have ac- tion.” would support such religious discrimination Several dozen protestors convened outside be “[…] a place of free exchange, where ev- and residence permit while being bit about black servicemen being tive letter writing campaigns op- Along with several international treaties, is preposterous.” the Icelandic Ministry for Foreign Affairs eryone can bring and take what they want, here and receive them in a shor- banned from the base in Keflavik posing wars and such. Maquilado- the injunction claim is supported by Icelan- Many responded furiously to Magnús- Tuesday November 14, where Israeli ambas- free of charge” according to a press release. ter time. It takes less formalities back in the day). So, I was sick rias, too. dic law, Scandinavian legal precedents and son’s article, including the Icelandic Muslim sador Miryam Shomr was scheduled to arrive The opening coincided with the annual ‘Buy for the employer and what is most with nervous energy as my plane reports from various respected human rights Association, whose statement read: “The as- at 10:45 to meet with Minister of Foreign nothing day,’ which was celebrated by con- important it reduces a need for of- landed in Keflavik--not knowing organisations, according to the movement. sociation hopes that this worthy project will Affairs Valgerður Sverrisdóttir. Although it sumers worldwide. ten dishonest employment agents if I would be gawked at or given or illegal work. The Polish mino- hostile stares. I can say that my vi- Lunch special! WULFFMORGENTHALER From 11.00-14.00 The luck is with you

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many countries. So, in a way the success of 101 Reykjavík dragged me into this field. But recently I have been going back into the theatre, although I am doing it on different terms. You are pretty well-established as a filmmaker now and your production company is doing well; do you find that it is easier to take chances with a project now? Yes, I think the next movie project I am doing will be very different from what I am doing now. I will probably be taking a big chance with that one. It is more of an experimental project and I cannot really rely on the audi- ence’s acceptance with that so a successful film, like Mýrin, gives me an opportunity to take more chances with a film like that. You obviously cannot make many movies with a bankrupt production company and maybe this thought has been lacking here, that companies actually have to turn a profit like every other company. What is the next project for you? In January, I’ll start working on a project that is a combination of a theatre production and a movie where I intend to take a play by Anton Chekhov called Ivanov and turn it into a movie, while producing it on stage si- multaneously with the same cast. I am a big fan of Chekhov’s plays. I like the humanity in his plays; they are stories of people and their aloneness. This is a funny comedy. I do not want to make a silly comedy; I am not interested in slapstick. I like humour that is based on the human element in us, strange situations or something like that. I have no interest in making a Jim Carrey movie. Do you look at a successful film like Mýrin as a way to bankroll more experi- mental projects like this one? It is very clear that most Icelandic movies are not a financial success. People are al- ways running into financial troubles with their movies. When I made 101 Reykjavík, I put everything I had on the line. And even There is no Such Thing as a Safe Bet if it was a successful movie, it did not make me a lot of money because it was poorly fi- nanced. I have made five or six films and out in Filmmaking of those, only The Sea and Mýrin have been a financial success. Like I said earlier, when I chose the book, it was just a book I liked, Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Skari it wasn’t even very popular at the time, so I couldn’t really think about it in those terms then, although it looks different today, with Director Baltasar Kormákur is one of ever not really a crime film. It is the story allowing the pace to slowly gather steam, us- the attendance it has gotten. We have seen Iceland’s most successful filmmakers. His of a father who is trying to improve his ing a double timeline, the mystery is a little sequels to successful Icelandic movies flop earlier achievements include movies such as: relationship with his daughter who has complex and so on. This is something you badly, nothing is given in this industry. Take 101 Reykjavík, The Sea and A Little Trip to a drug problem. cannot really do in TV because the audience the script for Mýrin for example; I was work- Heaven. His latest addition, Jar City, based on Yes, that is true, this is not a hardcore thriller, is not nearly as patient as the cinema audi- ing on the script for years, without finding a Arnaldur Indridason’s best selling crime novel this is a dramatic thriller, much like Mystic ence. way to make it work. But now, afterwards, it by the same name, has been a box office hit. River. It is not the action or the chase that You have said before that you would like looks like it was a really natural and easy ad- Baltasar Kormákur sat down to talk about his drives these movies; it is the inner tension, to get closer to your Catalonian roots in aptation, but it never looked like that when I latest movie, which is now being screened in the tension in the characters’ relationships, your filmmaking. Is this something you was sitting alone at my desk, pulling my hair Icelandic cinemas with English subtitles. and events that advance the story. That is the are still aiming for? and thinking how the hell I could make this emphasis I wanted to place on the movie. I I think it would be interesting to do some- work. But of course, when you have success Arnaldur Indriðason, Iceland’s best-sell- did not want to make it into a thriller that the thing with my Catalonian roots. I have often it is good to be able to build on that, but one ing contemporary author; Ingvar E. Sig- storyline could not have supported. thought about it. I still have not found the thing is clear, my goal is not to film the next urðsson, Iceland’s most successful and That might be the difference between right angle. It is hard to go into a different book in the series, and then the next book. popular actor; and Baltasar Kormákur, this movie and other attempts at Icelan- country to make a film in another language. That is not the point, even if I might do that Iceland’s most successful director. With dic crime movies. It is hard enough to make a film in Icelandic. at some point in time. the three of you being behind the movie Yes. I am not saying that one approach is Foreign language films are difficult, and to Do you own the movie rights to the oth- (Mýrin), this must have been as safe a better than the other, I am just saying that go from one language to another one within er books in the series? bet as you could hope for in the movie you don’t see any dramatic thrillers in Ice- that genre is very difficult, so you have to No, I have not bought the rights to the other industry? landic movies, so making a dramatic thriller find the right angle. Foreign language films books. That is just something to think about When I bought the movie rights to the book here was no safe bet. Like I said, it happened are mostly financed through public funds later. It is not the next project on my list. If back in 2000, Arnaldur Indriðason was not when I took the bet in 2000 when the book and it can be difficult to get financing from that were my only goal, you know, to make a very well-known author. Betting on me is came out and I bought the movie rights to it. them. Just like it would probably not be easy money, I would do something else than make what my company is about. To call a movie Perhaps I have a nose for this since Arnaldur for a Serbian filmmaker to get funding from movies or work in theatre. a safe bet… I mean, this is what I do for a then became a very popular author. But then the Icelandic Film Fund. You have decided to screen the movie living. There is nothing safe in this industry. again, it can also be very dangerous to turn Do you speak Spanish? with English subtitles now, why? There has never been a successful Icelandic such a popular book into a movie. It can so Well… I used to, but I am probably more Well, 70,000 people have seen the movie crime film before. It has never worked. Plus, easily turn on you. than a little rusty. I directed once in Spain. in the last month. It is the biggest movie of many people doubted that Ingvar E Sigurðs- What made you decide to buy the rights I put on a theatre production of the musi- the year, and it looks like it will be the big- son was the right man for the leading role. It to the book? cal Hair in Barcelona; it was actually done in gest Icelandic movie of all time. I just think it would probably have been a safer bet to get I thought it was the first Icelandic crime novel Catalonian. would be good to be able to offer all these someone older to portray the main charac- where the story was realistic and everything Ah yes, the theatre. You were a very immigrants the opportunity to see the movie ter, someone who was a little more like the added up and it had social references that successful stage performer and director as well. Imagine if 70,000 people, an ac- character in the book. So, I think within what appealed to me. That is why I decided to before moving on to films. What made tive third of the nation, has already seen the you are calling a safe bet, we were taking make it into a movie. you decide to make the switch from a movie and are talking about it, then it is dif- risks on all these fronts, except perhaps that There is a sort of Scandinavian tradition relatively secure career in the theatre ficult to be a foreigner and to be shut out of I was directing, but that was obvious since I for dramatic crime thrillers, both books and go into filmmaking? this discussion. This is a part of connecting am making the movie. I also think that the and movies, did you try to work within Maybe that was just it, I did not want to feel to the society and taking part in what is hap- adaptation of the story to the screen was not this tradition? to secure. I had been in a few films as an pening. My father is a Spanish immigrant as a very safe bet. The narration of the adapta- No, I do not really know this tradition. I do actor and I wanted to try it myself to see if well, so I think it is very good to be able to tion is very different from the narration of not read a lot of Nordic crime literature. I was I could handle this medium. That is when I do this. the book in many ways. So I don’t think we mostly trying to move as far away from the made 101 Reykjavík. After that, filmmaking approached it in a very safe manner. TV film genre as possible. I tried to approach rather took over. The movie went all around You mentioned that Icelandic crime films it more from the language of the cinema, by the world, and I can simply say that no Ice- have never been successful. This is how- opening it up, giving space to the landscape, landic movie has ever been screened in as 0_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_IMMIGRANTS Special offer

A Short History of Poles in Iceland Discounts on day tours Text by Jan Kargulewicz Photo by Skari

The term ‘jet-set’ conjures up fairly vivid im- teresting statement. In a study done by Kári it may have seemed like there were a lot of [This is often the case with immigrant la- ages of things like champagne, guitar amps, Gylfason (one of only a handful of people Poles living and working in Iceland. bourers. They do not “steal” jobs, rather, 2 0 0 6 geisha girls, breakfast on the Concord or, nat- who have done any real in-depth research on But then, they were all just coming and they take the jobs that aren’t already taken.] urally, whatever the present equivalent may this topic) he notes, “Many Icelandic employ- going. In truth, the number in the 80s never When the employment situation changed 5% discount for 1 daytour be… but certainly not Polish blacksmiths. ers I talked to, noted that Poles were easy to really exceeded more than a total of 70 peo- again after the mid-90s the Poles returned i n I c Yet, the ‘here, there, and everywhere’ feel- employ as they had similar culture and values ple. In fact, throughout the 80s only 1.4 per- in greater numbers. So much so that their e l a n d ing of Poles in Iceland and all over Europe to Icelanders.” cent of the total population of Iceland was population increased from a seemingly insig- sort of fits the ‘jet-set’ criteria. I guess I fail to see this and, being Polish foreign. This tiny percentage was from the nificant 70 to over 500 in 1995. 10% discount for 2 daytours To be fair, there is no great exodus from myself, think Icelanders would be baffled by Anglophone (the U.K., Australia, etc.) world I’ve been warned, more than once, that Poland at the moment. It’s more of a con- Polish culture and news headlines (example: and decidedly distant from Poland. there is no real reliable information about the stant ebb and flow, where many of the par- “Roof Caves in at Indoor Pigeon Race, Doz- Historically, labour unions, as in the case scale of Polish migration. All research seems ticipants are constantly recycling careers all ens Injured”). with the blacksmiths, and also the Ministry to indicate that there are about 800,000 20% discount for 3 daytours over Europe and returning home every two- Poles working all over Europe and the num- to-six months. It’s interesting because some- ber of them working in Iceland is approach- how, almost overnight it seems, Poles have ing 4,000. Of course, with numbers like these Our brochure is available come to make up the single largest minority Now, when in Iceland, Reykjavík especially, one new cottage industries are unavoidable. The group in Iceland. gets a feeling of slight disconnect with the ills of first Polish market in Iceland opened recently Tours must be purchased at Reykjavik Excursions at all major hotels and Not too long ago I was sitting in a bar in (Stokrotka in Hafnarfjörður). Astonishing- Reykjavík with an Icelandic friend. the world. That’s why I was particularly taken ly, every week about 250 flights (most on sales offices: BSI Bus Terminal, Radisson SAS Hotel Saga, guesthouses. ”Kurwa,” he said in disgust at some- cheaper airlines) leave Poland bound for the thing. aback when Tandri managed to know, remember, United Kingdom. Most remain there. Of the Icelandair Hotel Nordica, Icelandair Hotel Loftleidir. Now, when in Iceland, Reykjavík espe- and properly use the filthiest word one can say in 800,000, roughly half are working in either cially, one gets a feeling of slight discon- the U.K. or Ireland, but, more and more of- nect with the ills of the world. That’s why Polish. ten Poles are choosing Iceland. I was particularly taken aback when Tandri Again, it’s both reassuring and surprising managed to know, remember, and properly to find that the Icelanders are embracing the use the filthiest word one can say in Polish. I Poles. At the tail end of September a Polish quizzed him about it. It turned out he worked “Yeah, it’s true. They’re good workers. of Social Affairs have both seen immigrant culture festival, the first one in Iceland, was with a group of Polish guys and more were Nice people. There’s a lot of them here now,” labour as a temporary shortage solution. held in Reykjavík. The coming all the time. Somehow it felt like two my friend said. Only recently have work permits been grant- was in attendance and the whole affair was ICELANDIC AD AGENCY/SIA.IS KYN 33158 06/2006 worlds colliding. Like my girlfriend and my Although the Polish population in Iceland ed for more than a few months. Even then, well received. It seems as though this was a © parents were going out drinking together seems relatively new, to be fair, one must in Iceland, the permits have always been public validation of a long journey. A journey without me knowing. “Yes”, said my other begin to consider the Polish and Icelandic granted to the employer, never the worker. that began over 30 years ago in the ship- friend Kiddi, “I’m going to visit Poland in the connection in the 1970s. During this time it Lastly, the Icelandic government reserved the yards of Poland. It goes to show that one of spring.” seems like a lot of Icelandic fishing compa- ability to revoke the permit (see the EEA in the great equalisers in this world is an open How Icelanders and Poles were coexist- nies had their vessels built in Polish shipyards. 1993). There’s no graceful misunderstanding labour market. If only because, when forced ing, in agreement on things, amazed me. Naturally, though quite slowly, through these here. All of this was a recipe for constant but together, two entirely different cultures can After asking around a bit it was fairly plain connections the Poles managed to find their deliberately short-term work and an overall find similarity, shake hands, share a drink to see that Poles were being accepted in a way into jobs in the Icelandic fishing indus- protection of the Icelandic labour market. and, if they dare, anecdotes about the short way that maybe other immigrant groups try. Also at the time there seemed to be a Then something interesting happened. and imagined distance between people. weren’t. There’s no way to quantify this and shortage of blacksmiths in Iceland. Polish Sometime after the mid-90s Icelandic un- Booking phone: Tel: (+354) 562 1011 www.re.is e-mail: [email protected] no metrics to put a real number on it. It just blacksmiths filled the shortage by working in employment fell dramatically. Icelanders had happened. Somewhere, along the line while short stints on specific projects then return- begun to leave the fishing industry and the doing research for this piece, I found an in- ing home. For most of the 1970s and 80s Poles happened to be there to fill the gaps. 10_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_REVIEW/MUSIC

these kids were being tricked out of their money just to take part in a spectacle that was more reminiscent of the donkey-carnival in Pinocchio (with ads!) than any wholesome youth gathering I’ve witnessed, and I’ve been to more than a few. They were all strapped with their cell phones, designer jeans and al- cohol, all those things the powers that be try and convince us we need to have in order to properly enjoy ourselves. I was appalled at the low amount of respect the promot- ers showed the kids, appalled that this was what our extravagant consumer-culture has tricked us into believing substitutes for a good, meaningful time, appalled that many Send your of the kids didn’t really seem like they were even enjoying themselves all that much, rather giving off the impression of screaming temper-tantrum kids that finally receive the Christmas parcels desired lollipops they only think they want. I was appalled at a lot of things. On the other hand, the sight of a group in good time of teenagers dancing to their favourite song, boasting exuberant smiles and just being happy to participate in such a social event made me think otherwise. Witnessing such The last date to safely send clear and unbridled joy in action reminded me that I should never be the one to judge if anyone is having a good time or not – and Christmas parcels to kids need their good times. Being one is countries outside Europe hard enough as is, and if this is what they want, then by all means, let’s give it to them. is Monday The providers of such entertainment should, 4.12. however, try and treat their target-market with a modicum of respect and dignity, like Christmas parcels actual persons maybe. Appealing to ones baser needs may often be necessary, but ex- within Europe ploiting them to this extent is just plain taste- Youth is Wasted on the Young less. is Tuesday Which brings us to the last act, of the 12.12. night, the “Very special guests!” Those Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Pallih were, predictably, the current kings of ex- Christmas parcels ploiting base needs, animal urges and no re- straint whatsoever: Dr. Mister and Mr. Hand- within Iceland The first thing that greeted my companions state law implies, the socially accepted drink- – a DIY move if there ever was one. Warner some. Introduced to great applause by the and myself when we entered the sometime ing age in Iceland has been, and always will music quickly snapped him up, however, and inane presenter duo, Dr. Mister stumbled to is Wednesday 20.12. concert venue Broadway on that fateful be, 16, and this is regularly mirrored in this it was through that respective label that he the stage to his very own Dr. Mister theme Tuesday night (after being dutifully frisked by age group’s social functions: people in the released his sophomore effort, LOL <(^^,)>, song. He introduced the rest of the band. the security staff, of course) was the sight process of finding their drinking legs are usu- this summer, scoring a huge hit throughout “Where’s Mr. Handsome? Oh, I guess he’s of a dead-drunk 17-year-old boy vomiting ally prone to fall down a lot, just like those Scandinavia with the first single – Boten backstage, fucking. Well, it’s me! The most furiously on the table he lay on. A colourful who have utilised them for too long. Anna – a catchy ditty whose lyrics suppos- famous junkie in Iceland. It’s true!” Hand- mixture of vodka and Red Bull, half-digested Making our way through a crowded stair- edly pay tribute to an IRC-bot. Basshunter some showed up minutes later, hitching up pizza slices and god knows what else flowed way that led to the dance floor below we was to dispel this myth that night: before he his pants. And Mister continued introducing relentlessly from his young gullet while his could hear the intro tape to XXX Rottweiler’s played it for the first time he explained that his band. vacant eyes betrayed signs of confusion and impending blast-off. I quite looked forward it was actually about some girl named Anna Dr. Mister and Mr. Handsome are mean Send your embarrassment. After a short while the not- to the show, as XXXR used to be one of the and her butt, as far as I could tell. The crowd looking dudes and all their songs are about much-older-than-him security officers (of most exciting live acts operating in Iceland: loved it. They would have. various combinations of cocaine and fuck- which there were plenty) noticed the trou- however, this was not the case that night. Two so-called Bassgirls accompanied ing. I’ve seen them put on some great, scary bled youngster and proceeded to manhandle The reasons were all too apparent, even Basshunter; low-cleavaged teenage girls shows, oozing attitude and self-destructive Christmas cards him out of our sight. Hopefully, they took through the murk of lasers, smoke machines who shook their titties in appropriate fash- cool, dancing relentlessly around on broken good care of him, although the behaviour and the kind of bass that rumbles your in- ion to the music. As far as I could tell, their glass to broken beats, proudly proclaiming those self-important boys were to display sides they simply weren’t into what they dancing wasn’t really synchronised, a fact their violent love for all things shiny coke. in good time later that night (and the rough, rough way were doing. And that is always a sad sight. that would reinforce my belief that they were That night, they just sucked. It soon be- they grabbed him) doesn’t give much merit came apparent that Dr. Mister had lost his to the theory. voice. And the band members were, for Several metres to the vomiting boy’s right the most part, wasted out of their minds was a drunk, crying teenage girl, mascara “Which brings us to the last act of the night, the – in no state to perform in front of a pay- The last date to safely send stained and sobbing over something that “Very special guests!” Those were, predictably, ing audience. While stumbling drunks are probably seemed important at the time, often entertaining to watch, it is not very fun Christmas cards to panties and cleavage prominently displayed. the current kings of exploiting base needs, animal to dance to – which was the general idea. countries outside Europe Close by, a fight was breaking out between urges and no restraint whatsoever: Dr. Mister and Naturally, the dance floor cleared up pretty two bleach-blond boys wearing extremely quickly after they started playing, only briefly is Thursday tight white t-shirts. These sights would re- Mr. Handsome.” regaining its former glory when they played 7.12. peat themselves in exceedingly short inter- super-hit Is It Love? vals as the night went on. Then a fight broke out and the bouncers There was also a stall selling pizza slices rushed in and some girls started crying and Christmas cards and energy drinks, 300 ISK for the slice, 200 The only time the band members seemed to simply a couple of attendees who had been another teenage boy threw up and some /SIA.IS/ISP 334581 11/06 for the drink (I sampled both, and while the truly enjoy themselves was when presenting hand-picked to strut their stuff on stage. dude climbed up on the stage to dance with within Europe drink was warm and the pizza was not, they songs off their respective solo endeavours. And it must be said, Basshunter is an ex- his heroes but was promptly kicked off by ÍSLENSKA is Thursday made for a strangely satisfying meal, com- And then there was Basshunter. The glo- traordinarily polite and pleasant young man. the very security that was supposed to pro- 14.12. pletely befitting of the surroundings). And rious reason we were all there, Basshunter He repeatedly asked the crowd to cheer the tect him but instead opted to brutalise him then there was some sort of coin-operated makes music for people who really don’t Bassgirls on, stating that they were the most to a shocking degree before dragging him dance-off machine that seemed really fun care about music all that much – but do beautiful women he had ever seen and that backstage, perhaps for some more brutalis- Christmas cards in a perversely wholesome kind of way. And care about impossibly contagious hooks and attendants should be grateful for their pres- ing. It just sucked. there was, of course, a plethora of advertise- incessant dancing. And that is fine by me, ence. Really, he treated those girls with the One of the lessons this dreary night pro- within Iceland ments. And then there was the concert that those folks need entertaining too, and en- utmost respect. Then, when the first fistfight vided is that the problem with coolness is is Wednesday drew them all there. And that seemed fun tertain he did. Taking the stage after two of of the night broke out in the crowd, resulting that once its thin veil drops, and it will, it’s 20.12. too, if not wholesome. But wholesome is not the most annoying presenters ever to grace in flood-lights being turned on and security just laughable. Attitude and ‘cool’ are always the catchphrase of the young. After all, teen- a stage had finished their shtick, Basshunter rushing the mass of people, the computer laughable in the end. They are what we re- agers live forever. appeared to the roaring applause of a crowd nerd seemed genuinely upset at the fact, sort to when we get uncomfortable with The spectacle in question was a concert revelling in the sultry decadence of teenage pleading: “Please. It’s much better to love who we are, or concerned with our status or he-dark by Sweden’s latest techno-pop export, the drinklust and disposable pop. than to fight! Why this rage? Why not enjoy standing in a social hierarchy. And, as any- Glow-in-t dhesive dumbfoundingly named Basshunter. Sup- Basshunter is a scrawny 22-year-old yourself and hug your partner?” one of any markable wit or wisdom has at- self-a istmas porting were lapsed Icelandic hip-hop pio- Swede, a self-proclaimed computer nerd, The main attraction was only to perform tested to – and this whole night certainly did Chr neers XXX Rottweiler and some “Very spe- although not of the pimply, Jolt Cola drink- five songs that night, although he did play – those are empty, unsatisfying and in the stamps cial guests!” This was the second concert ing variety, but rather the looks of a model two of them twice (his big hit Boten Anna end futile pursuits. Here’s hoping that there’s of the night, lasting from 22:00 ‘til 01:00, and a sculpted ass to boot variety. He re- was actually played twice in a row – the more to life than the animal urge to conquer and was meant to accommodate 16 to 20 portedly started making music on his home crowd went wild both times). I had some or prevail. Find the post office nearest to you on www.postur.is year olds (the night’s earlier show served the computer back in 1999 and released his very conflicted feelings about the show in younger breed of teen). Aside from what début through his webpage in 2004 general. On one hand, I was appalled that 12_RVK_GV_18_2006_OPINION Immigrants – Pandora’s Box in Iceland

Text by Toshiki Toma

ropeans drive while they are intoxi- – Immigrants cannot steal jobs cated, cause car accidents or get from Icelanders when there is only arrested. one percent unemployment. – Immigrants bring organised crime – Icelanders, not immigrants, de- into Iceland, including drugs and cide the wages that immigrants are human trafficking. paid. The wage issue belongs to – They also commit crimes as indi- the Icelanders and the native em- viduals, such as robbery and rape. ployers. – Immigrants don’t respect Ice- – True, lessons in the Icelandic landic culture and traditions. They language cost a lot. Tax money is belong to different churches and needed to pay for that. But who even believe in different gods. They pays the taxes? Is it just the Ice- don’t have the same values as Ice- landers? No, it is also us immigrants landers. who pay the taxes. – If the number of Muslims in- – Most Icelanders have no idea creases in this society, it will be a how much they are gaining from total disaster for Iceland. They stick immigrants’ families and their bi- together, respect only their own lingual children! The negative view laws, mistreat women and break on educational possibilities in one’s I am really tired of a whole range the order of the society...... mother tongue is nothing but igno- of arguments that surround the de- There must be more, but I think rance. bate on immigrants these days. Ev- this is enough for now. All of the – As far as I know, the Icelandic po- erybody knows the story of Pando- above statements are discussed lice see organised crime as a sort of ra ’s Box in Greek mythology. Zeus now as a part of the “immigrant “cooperation” between Icelandic gave Pandora, the first woman of problem”. This is like a buffet at and foreign criminals. The other mankind, a box full of treasures Christmastime. People can pick crimes such as rape, burglary or forbidding her to open it. But Pan- whatever they like from the varied drunk driving are, of course, issues. dora couldn’t resist the temptation menu of “The Immigrant Prob- But those crimes concern criminals, to have a look in the box. When lem”. not nationality or people’s origins. she opened it, all sorts of evils and When this one word “immi- – True, Muslims live here, but why disasters came out of the box and grants” is uttered, it includes im- is this potentially part of a prob- spread into the world... migrant workers who have recently lem? We cannot just import inter- We deliver it clean. This may be the situation come from the EEA, it includes national propaganda and use it as a around the debate on immigrants wives from Asia or Africa who weapon to attack immigrants who in Iceland now. The Liberal Party have Icelandic husbands, former are here now. opened the box and all sorts of “in- refugees who have settled, their – I have much to contradict the nflytjendavandamál” – immigrants’ children and those who have al- assertion that immigrants have problems – came flooding out into ready obtained citizenship. And it a different system of values than Have a dirty time! our society. Many Icelanders must includes everything, everyone and Icelanders, and that they therefore have been waiting for the opportu- all therein, namely all those who cannot live with Icelanders and (Book our nice prices at www.sixt.is or call 540 2222) nity to say something about immi- are not native here. No wonder the their culture. I will wait for anoth- grants in this country – something discussion cannot go forward or er opportunity to express myself negative. So, “Hurray! Everybody, make any sense. This is much too about this. hurray! Throw in everything all.” vague for constructive talk. I am not saying that everything Being cynical and only standing is fine with immigrants’ issues in It is astonishing to see what a prob- aloof is not to my taste. So I would Iceland. There are certainly things lem we immigrants are for Iceland- like to make a small effort to put that we have to think through, dis- ers and for this society. As a part things back in order. It is not only cuss and work on. In order to do of the “problem”, I feel ashamed negative things that people have so, however, we need to follow the of having been so ignorant of this thrown in. A small common ground facts, specify the issues, analyse until now. Let me show you some can be a place to start. Now let’s them and discuss each one objec- Íslenska examples of what has come out in look at the buffet table of the “Im- tively. It is also important that we the recent debate: migrant Problem”. Which part of explain our own philosophy re- – There are too many immigrants. the “problem” really concerns us garding how we want our society fyrir útlendinga Soon there will be more of them immigrants? to develop and how we want to than the Icelanders! – First of all, immigrants are not live. Dear readers, that is a natural Morgun- og kvöldtímar á fimm stigum. – Immigrant workers are cheaper just increasing in numbers by procedure in how to handle these labour in the Icelandic labour mar- themselves. The main factor that issues. But sometimes people don’t Sérstök ritunar- og talnámskei›. ket. Their existence pushes the calls them to Iceland is big indus- follow the most natural and fair Næstu námskei› hefjast 17. janúar 2007. wage level down for all. trial projects, such as Kárahnjúkar. procedure. They may even forget – Immigrant workers deprive Ice- While people are shouting about it and fall into chaos. Soon it will Skráning hefst 2. janúar 2007 á: www.mimir.is landers of job opportunities. too many foreign workers, Norsk be time for us to leave this chaotic e›a í síma 580 1800. – Icelandic language courses con- Hydro is showing interest in build- situation and begin to work on real sume huge expenses, which are ing another aluminium plant. These issues. basically taxes from Icelanders. projects are made in the name of I remember the end of the story – Some immigrants insist on the the government and affirmed by of Pandora’s Box. After all the evils Icelandic importance of education in their the Icelandic people. If Iceland- have come out into human society, mother tongue and ask for support ers think they see too many guest only “hope” remains in the hands from the government and the mu- workers here, shouldn’t they stop of Pandora. Hope was Pandora’s for foreigners nicipalities. Why should Icelanders these huge projects? The increase only tool to work with, but it in the take care of that? in numbers of foreign workers is end it was enough to start with. I Morning- and evening groups, five levels. – Icelanders cannot communicate not in the hands of immigrants. It want to believe the same. We have in Icelandic when they meet for- is in the hands of the Icelandic gov- “hope” for a better future in our Special writing and speaking classes. eign workers at shops, institutes or ernment. hands, both Icelanders and immi- Next courses start January 17th 2007. other places. Why do they have to – The same thing can be said about grants, and that’s where we have face such a situation in their own EEA. The free movement of labour to start working together. Registration begins January 2nd 2007 at: www.mimir.is country? within the EEA is a mutual obli- or phone 580 1800. – Some immigrants cannot under- gation for all the EEA members. Toshiki Toma is a pastor for immi- stand anything in Icelandic, yet they Again, the origin of the stream of grants and political scientist. vote in municipal elections. guest workers is located within the Sérstök byrjendanámskei› fyrir Skandinava og pólsku-, – Immigrants don’t respect the purview of the Icelandic authori- laws in Iceland. They try to import ties, and by Iceland’s decision to rússnesku-, taílensku-, víetnömsku-, kínversku- og their own laws. Many Eastern Eu- belong to the EEA. spænskumælandi fólk.

MÍMIR Einn tveir og þrír 4.183 WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS símenntun

NEWS | BACK ISSUES | PODCASTS | LISTINGS | REVIEWS InnritunInnritun fer fer fram fram á Grensásvegi í Skeifunni 8, 16a, í síma í síma 580 5801800 1800 e›a e›a á heimasí›unni á heimasí›unni www.mimir.is www.mimir.is 14_RVK_GV_18_2006_OPINION Simply Speaking

Text by Gabriele R. Guðbjartsson

being able to read the newspapers and understand the news leaves you in an empty and isolated state. You also aren’t as interested in in- vestigating major domestic issues when they aren’t as readily acces- sible. At present the Icelandic gov- ernment has also felt a push in as- sisting foreigners with becoming acclimated language-wise. In 2007 Festival of the Icelandic Ministry of Educa- tion will spearhead a project of- fering free Icelandic lessons for up Sunday December 3rd 5 PM and Monday December 4th, 8 PM to 2,000 foreigners over the next The Motet in Choir Hallgrímskiarkja Christmas Concert three years. The 100 million krónur The celebrated finnish mezzosoprano Monica Groop joins The Motet Choir of Hallgrímskirkja for its annual provided for the program is said and very popular christmas concertos performing music and christmas carols from around Europe to be utilised for the education of with oboist Daði Kolbeinsson and organist Björn Steinar Sólbergsson under the direction of Hörður Áskelsson. teachers, developing materials and Tickets, 2500 ISK Silence is golden; however, living in curriculum. To be honest, I’m a lit- a world with nothing but that can tle sceptical about government-run Thursday December 7th, 8 PM be the antithesis of anything bright projects for foreigners that do not Improvising on Christmas Carols and shiny. Inhabiting a nation incorporate the perspectives and Sigurður Flosason, one of Iceland’s most prominent jazz musicians on the saxophone and Gunnar Gunnarsson, where the native language is miles experiences of those they purport organist and jazz musician performing a collection of well known christmas carols. Tickets, 1500 ISK away from your mother tongue can to be helping. Many government seem quite lonely at times. When programs focused on immigration Sunday December 10th, 5 PM surrounded by native speakers you are established with good inten- usually find yourself faced with two tions but oftentimes fail to meet Christmas with Bach options: become invisible or find the standards of a high-quality A collection of advent hymns and christmas carols with organ preludes by Johann Sebastian Bach performed by something really pretty to stare program. I could be wrong and the professional singers, Schola cantorum, with organist Björn Steinar Sólbergsson and Hörður Áskelsson directing. at until someone realises that you program could go off without a Tickets, 1500 ISK have no idea what’s going on. hitch; however, based on my first Sunday December 31st, 5 PM - New Year’s Eve However, fear not my fellow experience in taking an Icelandic newcomers, there is a third option. course in this country, the govern- Festive sounds for the new year You can bite the bullet and actually ment is going to need all the help it Festival of Christmas Music in Hallgrímskirkja concludes with the annual New Year’s Eve Concert combining learn the language. As we all know, can get. the sounds of the magnificent Klais organ played by Hörður Áskelsson, the trumpets of Icelandic Symphony mastering any new language can Last month I endured a ten- Orchestra players Ásgeir Steingrímsson and Eiríkur Örn Pálsson and the powerful bass voice of internationally be a daunting task. Moreover, the week course conveniently named renowned Icelandic opera singer, Kristinn Sigmundsson, performing arias from Bach’s Christmas Oratorio and Handel’s Messiah along with celebrated works by Bach (Toccata and fugue in d-minor) and Albinoni (Adagio). idea of learning Icelandic can mir- “Icelandic for Beginners.” Al- Tickets, 2000 ISK ror the concept of a person trying though I did not assume I’d walk to climb Mount Everest wearing a out of the class with a level com- Tickets are available at Hallgrímskirkja (+354 510 1000) daily 9AM-5PM. wetsuit with a surfboard strapped parable to that of the Son of Ice- to their back. The motivation is land, Leifur Eiríksson, I did want to there, but everything you’ve come at least be able to engage in simple The Reykjavík Grapevine Readers Survey “Based on the complex grammar and the forever changing pronunciation of each word, learning Icelandic is not an easy course to run.” Win a trip to GREENLAND

with is all wrong. The entire pro- conversation. Unfortunately, I was cess can be even more discourag- (sadly) too optimistic. Not only can or around ICELAND ing if you’re like me and your native I not even ask my husband to turn language is grammatically and ver- the soccer game off in his own lan- Courtesy of Air Iceland and Reykjavík Excursions bally on a different planet from this guage (because clearly he conve- seasoned vernacular. niently refuses to understand Eng- As English is one of the most lish at these times), I walked out of widely used language in the world, the class feeling as if I should have PRIZES it hasn’t been too difficult to com- been paid for those ten weeks. municate and get around in Ice- Yes, it does take two to tango and Daytrip to Greenland for two with Air Iceland. land. Nevertheless, it does not I could have put in many hours of negate the fact that Icelanders practise, however, one of the major always prefer to speak Icelandic problems was the actual method in Daytrip for two with Reykjavík Excursions. and that there are myriad setbacks which the language was taught. if you cannot converse in the lo- As a former educator myself I cal language. For example, having do know a few things about how three separate degrees of higher to convey material to a class of be- The Reykjavík Grapevine readers survey at www.grapevine.is education does not qualify me ginners and it does not commence for a job above cleaning a school with the telling the class, “You kitchen. Initially I was offended, just have to get a feeling for it.” but it quickly forced me to come Are you kidding me? How do you Tell us what you think. Answer honestly for a chance to win to terms with the reality of my lim- just acquire a feeling for sounds ited language skills. An additional and words that have never grazed an exciting travel experience. hindrance is the wall that separates your tongue before? Based on the you from getting to know Icelandic complex grammar and the forever Prizes are valid for 12 months after acceptance. people intimately. Individuals are changing pronunciation of each more likely to reveal who they are word, learning Icelandic is not an when they can express themselves easy course to run, which means it in their own language. Despite the needs to be taught by skilled pro- notion that most Icelanders would fessionals trained in the discipline rather go streaking in the middle of linguistics. So my caveat to the of winter than openly express how government is that they spend they feel, connections are more apt their money wisely so that students to form with a mutual understand- walk away feeling motivated and ing of one another. satisfied with their decision to no Furthermore, when you dwell longer sit in silence. in any place you want to have your ear on the street and a sense of what’s happening around you. Not 16_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_RECREATION/GAMES REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_RECREATION/GAMES_17

cruel and vicious world indeed. “We allow this kind of fraud because we want to have as much freedom as pos- sible in the game,” Nathan Richardsson, CCP Senior Producer tells me after the formal schedule at the Fanfest was over. “What we have seen happening, is exactly the same as has been happening in the real world for the last 50 years. The EIB scam for example was first pulled off in the 1940s, called the Ponzi scheme. This player was just doing the same investment fraud online. The players paid him money, thought they would double their profit but then saw him ditch the whole thing and fly off with all the investment.” Fanfest attendees had mixed feelings about the incident. Some thought it hilarious while others took it quite seriously, saying that it ruined the fun in the game while underlin- ing the importance of trust and cooperation, a crucial factor in the virtual world. But where there is trust there is betrayal and when earn- ing money is a status symbol, elaborate scams will always exist. And EVE has money. Lots of it. Enough to buy a fleet of spaceships or fancy Cadillacs, multiple times over. With more cash in your account, you earn respect, power and reputa- tion. This is something greedy individuals are fully aware of. Although players who take money out of the game run the risk of being banned from playing, its real-life reward is worth the gam- ble. These virtual game currencies are worth a lot out in the real world where some play- ers will always be willing to pay hard cash for the virtual gold. The business is blooming and while the black market is growing bigger, incidents like the bank scam can have some unpredictable consequences. The price to pay for 100 million ISK at the webpage ige.com is 11.55 US dollars and there are many other In- ternet sites fully designed for ISK transactions. You do the math. 7,000,000,000 x 11.55, anyone? because you make a commitment and then Assaulting comments and online threats are the game. If a player pays to get off, you bet- “It is a neverending chase and it is impos- something in real life comes up. You can feel common. One player told me about sexual ter respect that, as the only thing you have sible to follow every move,” one Dev told me You Can Take My Life, guilty,” Bregman tells me. His wife Daniela is messages he had received and even offers of in the game is your reputation. People warn and Richardsson agreed: not an EVE player herself, not yet at least. “I erotic online chat in exchange for money. other players if someone bombs his ship up “We see a lot of this happening, and yes, don’t play but I am going to. It’s much about How people see the game also varies after getting the money and puts the pirate it is a problem. It is hard to trace the trans- But You’ll Never Take My Freedom! self-control. Not playing all day and I have quite a bit. Some are playing to mine asteroids on the Name and Shame list. And that, appar- actions though. We don’t like it, because we been a little scared of becoming addicted to in their nice little vessels, others aspire to build ently, sucks. don’t want players to be able to get rich in it,” she says. Her man has been hooked on the biggest corporation possible while more the real world just by getting wealthy in EVE. Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photos by Skari EVE for two and a half years now, spend- spend most of their time completing missions, Are you being scammed? We have to find some balance and stop the ing too much time in front of the computer, trading and transporting cargo. Then there is Although some see the pirates as a group urge for these grossly abused transactions,” Daniela says, adding “Indeed you have to the group that gets high by ruining it all for of cold-hearted bastards who attack inno- he adds. “There are a bunch of crazy fanatics inside, EVE’s social experiment devastating consequences for ill-protected and a director in DarkStar1 (a corporation put a lot of time in it to get somewhere. I the aforementioned. They love nothing more cent miners, multiple other threats face EVE I’ve heard some rumours about sweat- but don’t worry, they’re all very friendly,” a Set in a galaxy tens of thousands of years in players who collide with the more ruthless within the biggest alliance in EVE). “It’s a understand that, as I play other online games than fighting, going to war and serving as pi- players. Devious scams and deliberate stunts shops operating, like in Eastern Europe, where young man tells me as I stand in front of the the future, the persistent world of EVE is a ones. Moral principles are disregarded, trust corporation, with a little over 120 accounts, as well.” rates or bounty hunters in the galaxy, with the are an unavoidable part of the game. Some people are employed to play computer games Nordica hotel one Saturday in November. capitalist society featuring a massive player- is taken advantage of, friendship is betrayed which has a primary goal to build the big Does it affect your social life? aim of the highest success ratio. dodgy players have even been known to for hours, cashing in virtual money selling it to “Myself? Well, I’ve been playing six hours a controlled economy. When you start as a and scams have become a regular thing to stuff. The biggest dive ships in EVE Online “Well, sometimes we sit side by side in Steini, a.k.a djammz and Kári, a.k.a Ra- spend many, many months working their way other players who don’t mind paying cash for day for the last two years, so I guess I’m a newbie, you choose a character, race and avoid where not only common sense but for example,” he proudly adds. the same room, playing online games. Then diogaga belong to that group. Playing since up the corporation ladder, gaining the trust of some online skills or better-equipped space- fanatic,” he adds. looks, get a spaceship and minimum equip- drastic measures have to be taken to survive. But what’s so fascinating about EVE? we start talking together through the game’s the beta-tests started, months before the the corp members, only to eventually destroy ships. Feeling like a fish on dry land as I stood ment to start the journey through the giant It is a world where you can let your more “The game has so many aspects of real life. chat-rooms, and not face-to-face. That’s a game first launched, they’ve been to all the the whole thing, steal the money and some- “These are not rumours but facts,” Rich- in the entrance hall of the high-class hotel, I universe. There you can interact in multiple devious sides can break loose. And once you It’s not like you’re playing against a computer. bit silly, I guess.” arson says. “In some countries, people have really couldn’t understand what makes 400 ways, build companies and space stations and log on, there’s no turning back. You are playing with and against thousands kids working for them playing online games people from countries as far as New Zealand gather resources. You bond with other play- of people from all over the world. And there High-tech hotline and earning them money. It’s modern-day fly all the way to Iceland and attend a com- ers and form ties with people from around “Yes, I’m a certified nerd” is so much freedom,” he added, a statement “In this game you are actually making friends,” “Our entertainment in the game is to kill people slavery and absolutely terrible. Other coun- puter game convention to talk about space- the world by taking part in PvP combats or Nordica was crowded with some of the most I would be hearing over and over from vari- I heard repeatedly at the Fanfest. Playing and and our political answer to all stupid political de- tries, like China, have people doing the same ships, 3D environment, role-play and graph- forming alliances with various groups. To sat- hardcore players of them all. I was even told ous players. friendship gets intertwined and some players job of creating virtual money, but they are ics for three days. After leaving the festival isfy the need for action your alliance can go that there were some celebrities present, As the EVE developers realised, the even meet their real life friends mostly through bates in the game is ‘Fuck off!!!’” getting paid for their work. A really good sal- seven glorious hours later, with a promise of to war with other corporations while trying although there were no gala dresses, red player’s freedom creates incredible dynamics in-game chatting and message boards, even ary compared to labour in their country. But billions of ISK and a membership in a couple to gain sovereignty over colonies, fight for carpet or paparazzi mania. I wouldn’t have within the game, so they granted players near if the friend only lives two blocks away. You the possibility of doing this creates the need of corporations, I understood it all too well. recourse or seek revenge, whether the other been able to spot the major general in the total freedom (some basic rules are enforced) also meet people from different countries al- to earn more money and you’ll always find This year’s event was the third annual group likes it or not. Just like in reality. group, unless he had had some spaced-out to let every player to influence the game and though you’ve never seen them, and that is Fanfests yet. The lectures, finding out what times even killing the CEO. people willing to operate companies like that. EVE Fanfest. Due to the steadily growing fan Today, this large virtual universe has uniform on. create opportunities for the other players. In what the Fanfest is all about, putting a face to will happen in the future and meeting other “In big wars you have people spying. You It’s part of the human nature. We don’t like base the convention sold out three weeks roughly 150,000 active subscribers logged The majority of guests were male, late EVE, you have the freedom to choose what months of plotting and chatting. players, is the reason, they attend. “My cor- have to be careful to keep secrets so your en- it, but it’s really hard to stop it,” Richardsson before the event. Roughly 400 foreign play- onto the same Tranquility server and EVE has 20s, and nerdy looking. Some were buying you want to be. You can be a spaceship pi- “We talk with people form Brazil or Den- poration has even met up in London two emies can’t build up forces against you. It is adds. ers, along with 100 Icelandic players and 170 been breaking world records in number of t-shirts, cards and limited addition posters lot cruising around solar systems, exploring mark,” Bregman explains. Daniela adds: “In times, to grab some beers and chat,” Steini currently very hard for the large alliances to It is time to run back to the party. The cer- staff members occupied the ground floor of players playing simultaneously in the same at the EVE store, others smoking, chatting the galaxy and enjoying the graphics along my opinion, online games expand your social says. work because of spies, people getting into emony was about to start and the Dev band Nordica for the purpose of celebrating the game world. Over 90 percent of players are and drinking beer in the lounge room. The the way, you can be a corporate spy, a man- life because you can get to know people from “I’m a mercenary at the moment but usu- chats and forums. Sometimes it is even play- was getting ready to get the party going and success of the multiplayer online game cre- male although the rate between male and biggest fanatics were busy playing in the ager in a company, or a scared little rat who the other side of the world. These guys over ally a pirate. I kill everyone that I see. For the ers that have gotten into the corporation, fly- the players were showing off their intergalac- ated by Icelandic Company CCP. The game female characters is quite even. Since we’re Second Genesis Tournament and the round never has the courage to leave the secure there are for example from his corp!” she last couple of months we’ve just been killing ing by our sides but relaying everything to our tic moves on the dance floor. There was no was launched in 2003 and today it boasts on the subject of statistics, it’s interesting table sessions or cheering their friends on in space. You can seek fame and fortune in an says and points to the table behind us, where everything we can,” Steini says. enemies,” Bregman explains quite seriously. more time for serious talks or sweatshop la- the largest virtual universe in the world. It to note that the man-years that have been the competition. Most of the people who aggressive solar system, become the leader three 30-something guys sit, engaged in “Same here. I categorise as a fighter,” Kári The biggest scam to date has nothing to bour speculations. Even though you can lose has its own currency, ISK, and a unique re- spent playing EVE are around 121,000, which came to the Fanfest were there to meet their of a giant corporation, bossing thousands of what seems to be a very serious conversation. adds do with spying though, but everything to do everything in a heartbeat while playing EVE, lationship between the EVE staff and the is half of the man-years it took 20,000 work- friends though, see what they look like, hug people around who are willing to risk their “We’ve never met them before the festival. I “We’re not the bad guys though. We with trust. The so-called EIB scam, where one worries about scams or enemies didn’t seem players. Together they keep the game on the ers to build the pyramid of Giza for example. their alliances, and backbite the enemies. life for the sake of some awards and respect just recognised them from their voices!” just want to have the most fun. Too bad for player established the EVE Intergalactic Bank to stop the players from having a blast. The front line and interact in real time with each And that pyramid is huge! What united them all was the excitement in the virtual world. In EVE, you can fulfil all “In the game, you get to know the players other players who end up getting killed in the and got players to deposit their money in the overall joy of having hundreds of people to other. During these three days, they all finally To become a good player takes time. of being there, the discourse awaiting them the dreams that never came true in reality. better than many of your friends and family. meantime,” Steini says: “Our entertainment bank. The bank turned out to be a fraud, and talk to who share your own hobby seemed to got the chance to bond in the real world and You have to earn money to buy basic skills, and of obviously the EVE Online party later And as you get closer to the ultimate goal, When you are on a three-hour mission, trans- in the game is to kill people and our politi- the player made off with a reported 700 bil- be the best reward for all of them. Whether, the Devs (developers) had the opportunity to weapons, bigger ships and form alliances, so that night. By then, the amount of empty the addiction grows bigger and it becomes porting cargo for example, you start chatting cal answer to all stupid political debates in the lion ISK, although no one can be sure if that when or how, the online rage and in-game tell the enthusiastic attendees about the cool you can get bigger, richer, more powerful beer bottles was enormous. harder to let go of the mouse. with someone to kill time. After a while you game is ‘Fuck off!!!’” number is correct. threats start breaking out in the real world, new stuff being added to the game as well and most important of all, earn respect. It I soon learned that the players proudly “Sometimes it is scary to see players, even know the name of the other guys’ high Are there any enemies here at the Fan- The scam has caused quite a stir in the net it was at least not this weekend. CCP sure as announcing CCP’s merger with Atlanta- takes stamina and strategic thinking. It takes call themselves nerds. Daniela Bregman which you know, being online 8-16 hours a school sweetheart!” a Brit explained to me fest? community as it is the biggest robbery in a knows how to throw a great party, and by do- based role-play-game company White Wolf money spent on monthly subscriptions and (Netherlands) even described her husband day. Some players who are unemployed have before excusing himself as he spotted a corp Sure. You can see people in t-shirts with multiplayer online game ever, leaving a lot of ing so, the company is steadily getting closer (greeted with booming applause and mul- buying ISK from other players, risking losing as one. They were first timers at the Fanfest, the time to do that. Then it is just EVE and member he desperately needed to talk to. their name or corporation on it and I have players pissed off. But according to the rules, to their goal of world domination. tiple questions). With this entire event, CCP everything in a world that is constantly evolv- but had long dreamt of attending. sleep. EVE becomes their real life. Most of “There have even been online weddings,” spotted a couple I have killed,” Steini says. this is ok, and the former bank president gets has proved it self as an established company, ing and renewing. Empires go to war and re- “Yes, I’m a certified nerd,” said Mr. Breg- the people I play with actually have a real life another player said. “Some more than once,” Kári adds but ex- to cruise around in his fancy new spaceship with the goal of conquering the world. lationships are just waiting to explode with man, playing by the name of Zaior Teilong though, which sometimes can be a problem Not all messages are friendly though. plains that you have to show some respect in and laugh at all the suckers he fooled. It’s a 18_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_FEATURE/CURRENT EVENTS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_INFO_ISSUE18_2006

The Liberal Party stance has particularly been directed to- wards the working class, while info. breeding ignorance, half-truths, Spessi’s Locations Ice“oh”lation Breaks Loose Jar City 16 Days for the 16th prejudice, and the mentality of us vs. them. Time Greenland in the Spotlight Ice Skating at Ingólfstorg A Very Special Benni Hemm Hemm Release Concert Jimi Tenor at Sirkus Grapevine Guide to Jazz

(location) Veteran photographer Spessi explores various locations at his Hafnarborg exhibit. B2_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_LISTINGS_B3

Klassíski Listdansskólinn – Dec. 9th at 19:00 Various Locations – Until 10 Dec.

Ice“oh”lation Breaks Loose 16 Days for the 16th Time

A new contemporary ballet piece, described as a strange and absurd Now being held for the 16th time 25 November, the International Day Ice“oh”lation, that springs from work, which displays the artist’s this year, the 16 Days of Activism Against Violence Against Women choreographer Andreas Constan- innovative, individualistic and un- Against Gender Violence is an in- and December 10, the International tinou, will premiere at Klassíski compromising approach to dance ternational campaign aiming at Human Rights Day, to mark the 16 Listdansskólinn (The Classic Dance theatre and installation art. This is a raising awareness about gender- day period while highlighting other School Academy) on 9 December. one-time event in Iceland, as after based violence and human rights significant dates like 1 December, It is a full length solo performance its premiere, Ice“oh”lation will be violations around the world. Under World AIDS Day. At 10 December created for Guðrún Óskarsdóttir, a performed at The Robin Howard this year’s heading, Advance Hu- the program will be wrapped up modern and classical ballet gradu- Dance Theatre in London. man Rights – End Violence Against with an Advent concert at Neskirk- ate from The Royal Ballet School of Women, dozens of groups and ja Church organised by Amnesty Stockholm and now a dancer with Klassíski Listdansskólinn, Grensás- institutes in Iceland participate in International in Iceland. Earlier that the Icelandic dance company. Ex- vegur 14. For tickets visit: www. the project by organizing protests, day, Amnesty has planed a letter- ploring the themes of human isola- ballet.is. drawing attention to gender-based writing marathon at the restaurant tion and fragmentation, the piece is violence by writing in the media. A Hornið, in which guests will have programme has also been planned the opportunity to write Christmas consisting of lectures, short films, cards to victims of gender-based and symposiums over the 16 day violence in Congo, Guatemala, event. Zimbabwe and Darfur. Tracing its roots back to 1991, the campaign originated at the first For a full schedule visit the Icelan- Women’s Global Leadership Insti- dic Human Rights Centre at www. tute. Participants chose the dates, humanrights.is.

Reykjavík Museum of Photography – Until 28 Jan.

Tjarnarbíó – 15 Dec. at 21:00 Greenland in the Spotlight Entitled Analog / Dialog, Mogens inhabitants and their homes in the A Very Special Benni Hemm Hemm Hafnarborg – 11 Nov. until Christmas S. Koch’s exhibition is on display barren, yet fetching surroundings. at Reykjavík Museum of Photogra- The photos not only document the Release Concert phy. Koch, a well renowned Dan- country’s history in a unique and Spessi’s Locations Cinemas around Reykjavík ish photographer, traveled multiple graphic way, but also intertwine Grapevine favourite Benni Hemm vine records will make it available bíó (by the downtown pond) on times to Greenland during the peri- rugged nature with daily life in a Hemm has done it again with his for Asian Hemm Hemm enthusi- the eve of Friday, December 15. In the main hall at Hafnarborg, the to show a given place just the way entitled Locations, which will fea- od between 1965 to 1980 and shot manner that feels like storytelling. brand spanking new record, Kajak asts. All of those foreigners will Appearing alongside the full Benni art and cultural institute of Haf- it is, regardless of whether it’s fas- ture photos from the exhibition Jar City over 100.000 pictures featuring The Reykjavík Museum of Photog- (“Kayak”), released domestically have to study Icelandic to get what Hemm Hemm orchestra is a line-up narfjörður, Spessi is displaying his cinating and exciting to look at or as well as almost 200 more there Greenland’s majestic landscape, its raphy, Tryggvagata 15. on Benni’s own “Smákökurnar” Benni’s trying to say on the album, guaranteed to provide a fine night latest series of photographs, en- not. The small pub at Kárahnjúkar weren’t room for on Hafnarborg’s Based on one of Iceland’s best seedy underworld from which she imprint on November 24. Thirteen however, since his lyrics are all in out. Teen hipsters Retro Stefson, titled Locations. As the name sug- dam and the workers living condi- walls. The book is being designed selling crime novels by Arnaldur emerges. tracks of honest, exuberant and Icelandic. However, Benni might be the ever pleasant Hjaltalín and non- gests, the subjects are various loca- tions, Örn Clausen’s legal office, by world renowned artists in New Indriðason, Jar City (Mýrin) a film Director Baltasar Kormákur, Ingólfstorg Square – 7 Dec. - 29 Dec. perfectly executed expression (and able to teach them a thing or two, smokers Skakkamanage will all play tions from all around the country. empty kitchens, jam-packed stor- York who have years’ long experi- by Baltasar Kormákur is well on its who made a name for him self horn sections), the album will likely as he will soon embark upon a tour their playful tunes to warm up for During a two-year period, Spessi, ages, a tiny gas station at Borðeyri ence in working for certain notable way to shattering all Icelandic at- based on movies such as 101 Reyk- rank among the year’s best and is of Japan (along with the Apparat Benni’s triumphant return. a leading Icelandic photographer, village as well as farms, mead- companies (designing shoes for tendance records. Taking in a little javík, The Sea and A Little Trip To Ice Skating at Ingólfstorg sure to travel far. A vinyl version of Organ Quartet, Kira Kira and Paul Those interested in attend- hit the road with only his camera ows and mountains criss-crossing Puma and animating for MTV). The over 70,000 viewers in the first few Heaven, delivers an exciting dra- the album even contains an extra Lydon, Flís, Hilmar Jensson and DJ ing the concert would do good to as company and scouted for things around the country are a few ex- book will hit the shelves in Iceland weeks of screening, this flick has matic thriller, starring Ingvar E. Sig- Downtown pedestrians have prob- versary of insurance company Tryg- track, Benni’s duet with Sweden’s Apfelblut of múm fame) and the fetch tickets as soon as possible, that caught his eye. amples of locations Spessi found shortly after Christmas. been the topic of water cooler dis- urðsson, Ágústa Eva Erlendsdóttirl, ably noticed the construction at gingamiðstöðin, the ice rink will lovable troubadour Jens Lekman U.S., following which he has a since there are only 200 of them “These pictures are snapshots on the way. Mixing man made cussions around the country. Björn Hlynur Haraldsson and Olafía Ingólfstorg Square, where a ice open 7 December. Welcoming all – singing in Icelandic, no less. European sojourn planned next up for grabs. They will set you back of all sorts of locations. Basic pho- environment and unspoiled nature, Hafnarborg, Strandgata 34. Open Jar City finds Erlendur Sveins- Hrönn Jónsdóttir. The movie is now skating rink is in the making. With those who want to enjoy outdoor Infamous electronic music label March. 2,500 ISK and can be obtained tos that could be seen as short sto- the exhibition gives its viewers a 11-17 every day of the week, ex- son, a lonely, middle aged police being screened with English sub- this new manmade skating rink the fun and winter sports, ice-skates Morr Music is set to unleash the To celebrate Kajak’s release, at the 12 Tónar record store, on ries” Spessi explains. A main char- chance to imagine what interesting cept Tuesdays closed. Entrance free detective, chasing down clues to titles, a rare opportunity to experi- Square will become a mini-version can be rented for the occasion. Kajak on Europe in January, and Benni has gotten together some Skólavörðustígur 15. acteristic of Spessi’s photos is the stories each spot has to tell. on Fridays. solve a murder case in downtown ence Icelandic cinema, and actually of New York’s Rockefeller Center Various happenings are scheduled, American audiences can acquire it of his favourite Reykjavík bands to way they reject any exaggeration Spessi is currently busy planning Reykjavík, while dealing with his understand it. for three weeks. like concerts, Christmas choirs and from the same label as of February. play at his release concert, due to Tjarnarbíó, Tjarnárgata 12, 101 or idealization, instead managing the publishing of a new book, also junkie daughter Eva Lind and the To celebrate the fiftieth anni- sporting events. Around the same time, Japan’s P- take place at the elegant Tjarnar- Reykjavík

If you would like to be included 07.12 Misery Loves Company in 29.12 DJ Rod & Stuard hitters until midnight followed by DJs 07.12 DJ Pan 26.12 Bubbi in concert 20.12 Marzípan Art Gallery 100 Degrees Mon.-Thu. 11-17 in the Grapevine listings, free of concert 30.12 DJ Andrea Jóns playing whatever the crowd is aching 08.12 DJ Kári Prikið 28.12 Benni Hemm Hemm in concert 101 Gallery Bæjarháls 1 Wed. 11-21 charge, contact the Grapevine by 08.12 Swedish Jazz band Laser in Domo Bar for at the moment. 09.12 DJ Tommy White Bankastræti 12 Stúdentakjallarinn Hverfisgata 18 Mon.-Fri. 8:30-16 Thu.-Fri. 11-17 email at [email protected]. concert Þingholtsstræti 5 01.12 Touch in concert followed by DJ 13.12 DJ Ingi Þór This old coffeehouse turns into a Hringbraut Thu.-Sat. 14-17 and by appointment www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100 Sun-Sat. 13-16 09.12 Swedish Jazz band Laser in The newest addition to the concert Maggi 14.12 DJ Lazer hip-hop mania at weekends where The University students’ former www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery/ Gallerí Anima www.gerduberg.is Music concert venue flora, emphasizing on jazz, 02.12 Troubadours Alexander and 15.12 Don Balli Funk not only DJs but also drummers hangout spot, now a diverse concert Artótek Ingólfsstræti 8 Gyllinhæð Bar 11 10.12 FÍH jazzrehearsal with Ingó blues and relaxing vibe. Örvar followed by DJ Maggi 16.12 DJ Árni Sveins and bassists create a crasy pit at the venue, attracting, still, a lot of Tryggvagata 15 Tues.-Sat. 13-17 Laugavegur 23 Laugavegur 11 corporation 07.12 Scott McLemore Trio 08.12 Touch in concert followed by DJ 19.12 DJ Davíð dancefloor. students. Mon. 10-21, Tue.-Thu. 10-19, Fri. 11- www.animagalleri.is Thu.-Sun. 14-18 A popular hangout for Reykjavík’s 12.12 Rom Tom Tom with Tómas R. 14.12 Varp – Jóel Pálsson Quinted Jhonny 20.12 DJ Davíð 01.12 Rap-fest with Gunni Stef 02.12 Ghostigital, Stilluppsteypa and 19, Sat. and Sun. 13-17 08 Dec – 23 Dec Students from the second year of the rockers and their young idolaters with Einarsson 16.12 Vinir Dóra Christmas concert 09.12 Troubadours Gotti and Eisi 21.12 Don Balli Funk 02.12 DJ Anna Brá FM Belfast in concert www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Jón Óskar, Kristinn Már and Bjarni Art Academy DJ’s playing classic rock‘n’roll hitters. 13.12 Þollí Bluesband 19.12 Borgardætur Christmas concert followed by DJ Jhonny 22.12 Steinunn and Silja 07.12 DJ Kári 21.12 Benni Hemm Hemm and Until Dec 31 Sigurbjörnsson Hún og Hún Gallery 01.12 DJ Gulli Ósóma 14.12 Björn Thoroddssen plus band Fríkirkjan Church 15.12 Helgi Valur troubadour followed 23.12 Don Balli Funk 08.12 DJ Benni B-ruff Sprengjuhöllin in concert Anna Hallin exhibition Gallery Fold Skólavörðustígur 17b 02.12 DJ Palli Maus and Andrea Gylfadóttir Laufásvegur 13 by DJ Maggi 28.12 DJ Ingi Þór 09.12 House DJ 22.12 R.A.M.S.E.S. release party Aurum Rauðarárstígur 14-16 i8 Gallery 08.12 DJ Óli Weapons 17.12 Eric Quick Jazzband 07.12 KK and Ellen’s Christmas Concert 16.12 Troubadours Gotti and Eisi 29.12 DJ Benni 13.12 DJ Óli Hjörtur Tjarnarbíó Bankastræti 4 Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Klapparstígur 33 09.12 DJ Gulli Ósóma 19.12 Atlantshafsbandalagið release Hallgrímskirkja Church followed by DJ Maggi 30.12 Don Balli Funk 14.12 DJ Gulli Ósóma Tjarnargata 12 Mon.-Fri. 10-18 Sat. 11-16 Tue.-Fri. 11-17 15.12 DJ Óli Weapons concert Skólavörðuholt 22.12 Touch in concert followed by DJ Langholtskirkja Church 15.12 Gísli Galdur, Guðni the bassist 15.12 Benni Hemm Hemm release Sat. 11-16 Sun. 14-16 Sat. and by appointment 13-17 16.12 Force Beyond Faith and Full 20.12 Krummafótur Christmas concert 03.12 Monica Group and The Motet Jhonny Sólheimar 13 and Addi the drummer. concert. Accompanied by Retro The Einar Jónsson Museum www.myndlist.is www.i8.is Speed Power Party in concert, 21.12 Misery Loves Company Choir of Hallgrímskirkja Church 23.12 Helgi Valur troubadour followed 10.12 Advent concert – Philharmonia 16.12 Singstar-night with Jón Mýrdal Stefson, Hjaltalín and Skakkamanage Eiríksgata Gallerí Sævars Karls 09 Nov – 23 Dec NEW followed by DJ Palli Maus Christmas concert 04.12 Monica Group and The Motet by DJ Jhonny Choral Society followed by DJ Benni B-ruff Vegamót Tue.-Sun. 14-17 Bankastræti 7 Stig/ 22.12 DJ Óli Weapons 22.12 Hraun Christmas concert Choir of Hallgrímskirkja Church 29.12 Touch in concert followed by DJ 12.12 Advent concert – Philharmonia 20.12 House DJ Vegamótarstígur 4 www.skulptur.is www.saevarkarl.is Katrín Sigurðardóttir 23.12 DJ Gulli Ósóma 23.12 Þorláksmessa Choir 07.12 Festival of Christmas Music Maggi Choral Society 21.12 DJ Óli hjörtur A weekly anticipation for its trendy Permanent exhibition Mon.-Fri. 10-18 09 Nov – 23 Dec NEW 29.12 DJ Gulli Ósóma Dillon 10.12 Festival of Christmas Music: 30.12 Pub-lic in concert followed by 15.12 Advent concert – Philharmonia 22.12 Trubadours Franz and Kristó clientele, always dressed for the The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson Sat. 10-16 Pétur Már Gunnarsson, poets and 30.12 DJ Óli Weapons Laugavegur 30 Christmas with Bach DJ Maggi Choral Society followed by DJ Anna Rakel and Sara occasion, the party starts at midnight The Culture House Gallery Tukt installations Café Cultura Legendary rock pub featuring concerts 31.12 Festive sounds for the new year 31.12 Hressó New Years celebration. 16.12 Christmas carols with the 23.12 Rap-fest with Gunni Stef and ends early in the morning. Hverfisgata 15 Pósthússtræti 3-5 Icelandic Labour Union’s Art Hverfisgata 18 every Wednesday night and rock DJ’s Háskólabíó Iðnó Theatre Langholtskirkja choir 29.12 DJ Gísli Galdur 01.12 DJ Kári Open daily 11-17 www.hitthusid.is Gallery Music from the world’s four corners. every weekend. Hagatorg Vonarstæti 3 Laugardalshöllin 31.12 New Years Rap-fest with Danni 02.12 Tommi White www.thjodmenning.is 25 Nov – 9 Dec Freyjugata 41 14.12 DJ Buzby plays African jazz, 01.12 DJ Mikkó 01.12 Lennon and the Icelandic 15.12 Elísabet Eyþórsdóttir release Engjavegur 8 Deluxe, Dóri DNA, Bent and Rottweiler 07.12 DJ Símon 29 June 2006 – 27 Feb 2007 Steinunn Harðardóttir and Sindri Freyr Tue.-Sun. 13-17 tango Nuevo, Asian dub, Japanese pop 02.12 DJ Andrea Jóns Symphony Orchestra (Tribute concert) concert. 01.12 Rock Star concerts with Magni, Sirkus 08.12 DJ Dóri Icelandic Fashion 2006 Steinsson art exhibition Free Entrance and Indian drum n bass. 06.12 Royal Fortune in concert 02.12 Lennon and the Icelandic Kaffibarinn Dilana, Toby, Storm and the majestic Klapparstígur 30 09.12 Gísli Galdur and DJ Benni Permanent Exhibits Gallery Turpentine Kling & Bang Gallery Café Rósenberg 08.12 DJ Rod & Stuard Symphony Orchestra (Tribute concert) Bergstaðastræti 1 Supernova houseband. Playing reggae, country and usually 14.12 DJ Adda Medieval Manuscripts; The National Ingólfsstræti 5 Laugavegur 23 Lækjargata 2 09.12 DJ Andrea Jóns 02.12 Lennon and the Icelandic With a mixture of techno, reggae, hip- 05.12 Frostroses in concert hosting at least one live gig at 15.12 DJ Símon Museum- as it was; The Library Room Tue.-Fri. 12-18 Thur - Sun 14-18 A true jazz club featuring live gigs with 13.12 Benny Crespo’s Gang Symphony Orchestra (Tribute concert) hop and classic dance hitters, the DJs Nasa weekdays, Sirkus’s veteran techno DJs 16.12 DJ Jói Dwarf Gallery Sat. 11-16 Free Entrance some of Iceland’s finest jazzists almost 15.12 Party with Canora followed by 07.12 The Icelandic Symphony are usually capable of crowding the Thorvaldsenstræti 2 keep the party going until morning at 21.12 DJ Símon Grundarstígur 21 www.turpentine.is www.this.is/klingandbang every night of the week. DJ Andri Orchestra: Gala Concert dance floor each weekend and getting 01.12 DJ Desyn Masiello (a mix of weekends. 22.12 DJ Anna Rakel and Hjalti Opening Hours: Fri. and Sat 18-20 Gel Gallerí 19 Nov – 10 Dec 01.12 Halli Reynis release concert 16.12 DJ Andrea Jóns 16.12 The Icelandic Symphony the regulars frisky at weekdays. house, funk, tech and dance music) 01.12 DJ Curver 23.12 DJ Kári this.is/birta Hverfisgata 37 Myndlistardreifing/Art distribution 02.12 Halli Reynis in concert 20.12 Perla in concert Orchestra: Christmas Concert 01.12 DJ Lazer 02.12 Í svörtum fötum in concert 08.12 Jimi Tenor and President Bongo 28.12 DJ Adda Until Dec 9 Mon.-Fri. 10-19 Helga Óskarsdóttir 03.12 Ingó corporation: FÍH graduation 22.12 DJ Andri Hressó 02.12 DJ Kári 09.12 Papar in concert 09.12 DJ Árni Sveins 29.12 Gullfoss and Geysir Der Sat. 10-17 19 Nov – 10 Dec concert 23.12 DJ Andrea Jóns Austurstræti 20 03.12 DJ Vala 15.12 Sálin in concert 13.12 Ghostigital in concert 30.12 Gísli Galdur and DJ Benni Kristján Zaklynsky and Lina Larsen Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Kling & Bang & Slang 06.12 Kristjana Stefánsdóttir quartet 27.12 Weapons in concert Here, troubadours play sing-along 06.12 Don Balli Funk 23.12 Bubbi in concert 15.12 DJ Nuno video and installation exhibit Gerðuberg 3-5 Kristinn Már Pálmason B4_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_LISTINGS Music Art Films Events Music Art Films Events RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_LISTINGS_B5

Sirkus – 8 Dec. at 21:00

Jimi Tenor at Sirkus

The Pineapple Records concert of pure musical happiness. His nights at Sirkus continues its draw forthcoming album, Joystone, of a mixed crowd in December, is awaited with anticipation. now featuring the Finnish multi- Sunrise, a three-track EP released instrumentalist, singer and com- in October this year, is said to be poser Jimi Tenor. unlike everything else Tenor has GusGus , Pineapple been known to do, where he is Records, in cooperation with Uncle accompanied by West African Siggi and Desire Loveschool have percussion group Kabu Kabu, organised multiple shows at Sirkus afrobeat master Nicholas Addo since early summer where among Nettey, and a group of young stars performances have been Petter of the Finnish jazz scene. What Winnberg, Khan of Finland, Helmus Sirkus’s attendees can expect to and Dalli and Kid Carpet. witness will unfold in just a week. Playing a strong-beat mix of Followed by the legendary jazz, funk, soul and techno, Jimi President Bongo and Casanova DJ Tenor’s first solo album, Sähkömies, Set, the show starts at 21:00 and was released in 1994 and the is, like always, free of charge. second one, Europe, a year later. Now counting ten solo records, Sirkus, Klapparstígur 30. his newest LP, Beyond the Stars Photo by Jimi Tenor. is described as a joyful showcase

Living Art Museum The Orange Island & Perfect Dream Álfabakka, Regnboginn. arts video game Dead or Alive. Lots of The annual lighting of the Oslo Christ- Laugavegur 26 and Life Borat fighting Ninjas. (Dec 8) mas tree at Austurvöllur takes place Wed., Fri.-Sun. 13-17 Elisabeth Smolarz exhibition With the subtitle: Cultural Learnings Eragon 3 December at 16:00. The Reykjavík Thur 13-22 Safn of America for Make Benefit Glorious Based on the best-selling fantasy Brass Band will be playing popular www.nylo.is/ Laugavegur 37 Nation of Kazakhstan, TV personality novel, the movie centres on the farm Christmas tunes and the Choir of the 18 Nov – 17 Dec Wed.-Fri. 14-18 Borat is finally on the big screen, along boy from Alagaesia and his dragon Reykjavík Cathedral sings Christmas Grasrót 2006/Grassroot 2006 Sat.-Sun. 14-17 with Pamela Anderson, playing herself. friend who together have to save their carols. A few Santas might even show Hulda Vilhjálmsdóttir Free Entrance Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó. homeland from an evil king. (Dec 8) up. The National Gallery www.safn.is Flyboys Deja Vu Austurvöllur, 3 December at 16:00. Fríkirkjuvegur Until Dec 31 Bombed up airplanes, dramatic love Time travelling, love affair and vicious Best í Heimi in Theatre Tue.-Sun. 11-17 Hildur Bjarnadóttir textile exhibition scenes and heroic young Americans murderers in an action movie starring Icelandic play with English subtitles by Free Entrance Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum caught in a WWI battle, even though Denzel Washington as an ATF agent Hávar Sigurjónsson and María Reyndal. listasafn.is Laugarnestangi 70 all they wanted was to learn how to who has to save hundreds of people Iðnó Theatre, Vonarstræti 3, until 9 7 Oct – 12 Dec Tue.-Sun. 14-17 fly. Clichés guaranteed. Háskólabíó, from the past. (Dec 15) December. For tickets call 562 9700. Málverkið eftir 1980/Icelandic Painting Permanent exhibition Sambíóin Álfabakka. Happy Feet Salsa Night with Carlos Sanchez after 1980 The work of sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson The Departed Singing penguins plus a tap-dancing The one and only Carlos Sanchez Reykjavík – Dec. 2006 15 Dec 2006 – 25 Jan 2007 Said to be Martin Scorsese’s best film penguin chick, who becomes an out- shows guests the basic Salsa steps, Un Regard Fauve >>>OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK since Goodfellas. Starring Leonardo cast from the penguin society due to free of charge. French Expressionism Hveragerði Library DiCaprio, Matt Damon, Jack Nichol- his off-key voice. (Dec 26) Café Cultura, Hverfisgata 18, 9 De- Grapevine Guide to Jazz The National Museum Austurmörk 2, Hveragerði son and Mark Wahlberg it’s a violent Flags of Our Fathers cember at 10:30. Suðurgata 41 Mon.-Fri. 15-19 gangster drama no one should miss. Clint Eastwood’s newest blockbuster International Campaign: 16 days Text by Andrew Clarke Open daily 10-17 Skaftfell Kringlubíó. tells the story of five marines in the of activism against gender violence natmus.is/ Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður Paris Je T’aime battle for the island Iwo Jima in the 01.12 International AIDS-day. Seminar: Reykjavík has a small but pretty In the winter, the scene cen- Tomm Tomm. Last year, Múlinn ran until mid-May, beautifully with the bass and drums Temporary Exhibitions: www.skaftfell.is A love story set in one of the most Second World War. A typical Holly- Human rights, young women and good jazz scene. It can be hard to tres on the Múlinn jazz club and in Gigs start at nine and the line- so hopefully it will pick up again in that make up the trio. Photography from Iceland, 1938 2 Dec – 20 Jan 2007 romantic cities in the world, Paris. wood war movie with all the proper AIDS in Uganda. track down, as gigs aren’t always summer on the courtyard behind up for the rest of the year is: the new year. Tómas R. Einarsson’s Let Jazz be Invisible women in Haraldur Jónsson exhibition Directed by 18 different filmmakers all bombings and special effects overload. Kaffi Viktor from 20:00-22:00. well publicised but once you do, it Jómfrúin, the Danish sandwich bar. Bestowed on the Huts is a wildly di- Archaeological research and Iceland’s Hafnarborg tackling the subject of love their own (Dec 26) 02.12 Screening of two short films, It’s is easy to get into. A regular gig- Café Rosenberg on Lækjargata is 7 December. Scott McLemore – For Icelandic jazz CDs, check out verse collection of songs partly in- new view of history Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður way, the movie gives a unique portrait Tenacious D in Our Hands and Lives Blown Apart. goer will soon start to recognise also worth keeping an eye on. Mú- Frisell Projekt, a guitarless set of the Skífan on Laugavegur or 12 Tónar spired by the poetry of WH Auden Permanent Exhibitions: Mon.-Sun. 11-17 of the city everyone loves. (Nov 24) Jack Black’s new real-life movie is said Both films address Amnesty Interna- the musicians who play different linn has just moved from Sunday guitarist’s music. Scott McLemore on Skólavörðustígur. Both will let (the original friend of Iceland?). The Making of a Nation www.hafnarborg.is The Nativity Story to be the greatest cinematic piece of tional’s struggle against the violation styles in different combos. I’ve nights at the Þjóðleikhúskjallarunn is an American drummer but a sta- you listen to CDs. Skífan is a bit The nine tracks are sung by eight The Nordic House Until Dec 30 This is the tale of Mary, Joseph and our time (according to him at least). of women. Discussions after the show. seen some excellent gigs, as well as (the basement bar under the Na- ple of the Reykjavík jazz scene. The like a Virgin or HMV and is fine for different singers, including KK Sturlugata 5 Location unborn baby on their journey to Two dudes, played by Black and Kyle Café Cultura. Hverfisgata 18, starts at one or two that were a bit stiff and tional Theatre) to Thursday nights line-up features the talented Sunna what it is. 12 Tónar is small, cosy, and former Sugarcube Einar Örn Tue.-Sun. 12-17 Spessi photo exhibition . A nice reminder of what Gass, in an epic mission of becoming 18:00 and 20:00. wooden. at Domo at Þingholtsstræti 5. In a Gunnlaugsdóttir. very friendly and hands out cups of (whose singing certainly won’t ap- www.nordice.is/ Suðsuðvestur the holiday was once all about. (Dec 1) the greatest rock stars ever. What 05.12 Dorit Otzen, talks about the If foreigners have come across way it’s a shame, because the Na- espresso to browsers. peal to everyone). If I were forced Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 : The Hafnargata 22, Keflavík Flushed Away could possibly go wrong? (Dec 26) blind eye of democracy. any Icelandic jazz at all, it is likely to tional Theatre basement is such a 14 December. The Jóel Pálsson There are quite a few decent to pick one song, it would probably Settlement Exhibition Thu.-Fri. 16-18 Animated film about a fancy pet rat, Children of Men The Nordic House, Sturlugata 5, at 17:00. be Björk’s 1990 album Gling-Gló. lovely venue. For the musicians, Quintet, promoting the forthcom- Icelandic jazz CDs around but two be Ellen Kristjánsdóttir’s rendition Aðalstræti 16 Sat.-Sun. 14-17 which has to learn the street life when Starring Clive Owen and Julianne Moo- 07.12 The Icelandic Human Rights The bigger names in Icelandic jazz though, it is an improvement. The ing album, Varp. This promises to really stand out. Flís’s self-titled of Guðbergur Bergsson’s poem Open daily 10-17 www.sudsudvestur.is it gets flushed down the toilet and re, this dystopia, set in 2027, centres Centre presents a documentary on are little known elsewhere. They acoustics are better and the own- be a good gig. I’ve seen Pálsson album is a lovely collection. It’s a Spring Rain in Njarðvíkur but really, Reykjavík Art Museum 2 Dec – 31 Dec finds itself floating in the sewers of on the quest to save humankind from domestic violence in Latin America. include the keyboard player Sunna ers are actually into jazz. Domo’s play a few times and he was good warm, lyrical and very likeable set the whole album is a quirky mix of – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Gunnhildur Þórðardóttir exhibition London. Supposed to be a fresh additi- an inevitable apocalypse as women Café Sólon, Bankastræti 7a, at 20:00. Gunnlaugsdóttir, the saxophonists fine and at least there is a regular enough to keep company with the of old-time Icelandic songs given styles that work perfectly. Museum DaLí Gallery on to the CGI frenzy. (Dec 1) have become infertile and no child has European movie icons Jóel Pálsson and Sigurður Flosa- jazz night again. It kicked off with electrifying pianist Kjartan Valde- jazz arrangements. Some tracks Sigtún Brekkugata 9, Akureyri SAW III been born for 18 years. (Dec 29) The National Film Archive of Iceland son, the bass player Tómas R. Ein- Tómas R. Einarsson with most of marsson (who is sadly missing from are mournful, others jaunty. Davíð Open daily 10-16 Friday and Saturday 14-18. The psycho Jigsaw is back and nothing Regnboginn, Hverfisgata 54 continues with its screening of old arsson and the singer Ragnheiður the jazz-funk band Jagúar in tow, this season) last May. Þór Jónsson’s piano is thoughtful, Admission ticket is valid on the same www.daligallery.blogspot.com seems to stop him on his mission to 101 Reykjavík, Tel. 551-9000 movie masterpieces. Gröndal. promoting his new album Romm assured, never dull and combines day 02 Dec – 17 Dec torment innocent victims. This time, Sambíóin, Álfabakka 8 5 and 9 December: La città delle donne for all three museums. Magdalena Margrét Kjartansdóttir his apprentice, played by Shawnee 109 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 by Federico Fellini www.listasafnreykjavikur.is exhibition Smith, is there to help Jigsaw with his Smárabíó, Smáralind 12 and 16 December: La femme d’à Reykjavík Art Museum Gallerí+ devious plans. (Dec 1) 201 Kópavogur, Tel. 564-0000 Côté by François Truffaut – Hafnarhús Brekkugata 35, Akureyri Deck the Halls Háskólabíó, Hagatorgi National Film Archive of Iceland, Tryggvagata 17 Jónas Viðar Gallery This year’s family Christmas story 107 Reykjavík, Tel. 525-5400 Hvaleyrarbraut 13. Open daily 10-17 Fri.-Sat. 13-18 with Danny DeVito taking on the role Kringlubíó, Kringlunni 4-12 cookies for 10 Jun 2006 – 07 Jan 2007 Akureyri Art Museum of the annoying Mr. Christmas who 103 Reykjavík, Tel. 575-8900 The Future of Iceland The Erró Collection: Graphic Works Kaupvangsstræti 12, Akureyri finds himself in the middle of a stupid Selfossbíó, Eyrarvegur 2 To raise awareness as well as for fund- Reykjavík Art Museum Tue.-Sun. 12-17 neighbour disputes about Christmas 800 Selfoss, Tel. 482-3007 raising, Framtíðarlandið (The Future – Kjarvalsstaðir www.listasafn.akureyri.is decorations. Idiotic scenes may be Laugarásbíó, Laugarási Country) a cross-political organisation How did it all begin? Flókagata 28 Oct – 17 Dec expected. (Dec 1) 104 Reykjavík, Tel. 565-0118 protesting heavy industry and destruc- Closed in December Dröfn Friðfinnsdóttir retrospective The Holiday Sambíóin Akureyri, Ráðhústorgi tion of the country’s nature, is organis- Step into Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s past to life, providing Reykjavík Museum A romantic holiday movie starring 600 Akureyri, Tel. 461-4666 ing a gingerbread baking marathon visitors with insights into how Kistuhylur 4 Cameron Diaz, Kate Winslet, Jude Law Nýja-Bíó, Hafnargata 33 the 2, 5, 7 and 9 December under the people lived in the Viking Age, and www.arbaejarsafn.is and Jack Black and featuring guy- 230 Reykjanesbær, Tel. 421-1170 careful guidance of Sigfús the baker. what the Reykjavík environment The Reykjavík Museum of problems, relationship complications Those interested in participating are looked like to the first settlers. Photography and a whole lot of romance, just the Events asked to contact Sigfús via e-mail: www.gljufrasteinn.is the Viking Age The Settlement Exhibition 871±2 Grófarhús, Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor right mixture for a holiday chick flick. Cultures of Landscape [email protected]. is located at Aðalstræti 16 Weekdays 12-19 (Dec 8) Seminar organised by the Department Eat for Peace Sat.-Sun. 13-17 Films Severance of Geology and Geography and the 01.12 Fundraising dinner organized by Reykjavík City Museum Free Entrance Casino Royale A film about an office vacation going Nordic Landscape Research Network. the Campaign Against Military Bases www.reykjavik871.is www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Zorro director Martin Campbell returns terribly wrong when some serial killing The University of Iceland, Sæmundar- at Friðarhús (The Peace Center). An 24 Nov 2006 – 28 Jan 2007 with a James Bond flick starring Daniel maniacs start chopping up staff mem- gata 6, 1 December from 10:00 to impressive Christmas buffet for only Analog - Dialog Craig as the secret agent spy fleeing bers. (Dec 8) 15:15. 1.500 ISK. Mogens S. Koch from assassinations and other dilem- DOA: Dead or Alive Lights are lit at Austurvöllur Friðarhús, Njálsgata 87, starts at 19:00. 23 Nov 2006 – 3 Jan 2007 mas. Smárabíó, Laugarásbíó, Sambíóin An adaptation of the popular martial For more info visit: www.fridur.is. CAFÉS RESTAURANTS 1 8 Tíu Dropar 15 Café Victor 22 Pravda 25 Ölstofan 28 Kaffibrennslan 31 34 Argentína 37 Tapas 44 Bæjarins Bestu Café Roma oaj]d]kk Laugavegur 27 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Austurstræti 22 Vegamótastígur Pósthusstræti 9 Krua Thai Barónsstígur 11a Vesturgata 3b Tryggvagata f]logjc Laugavegur A very nice, old-fashioned café. It’s sub- Spelled with a C rather than the Icelan- Pravda is one of the biggest clubs/bars in Ölstofan is an unpretentious, comfort- Café, bistro, restaurant, bar – whatever Tryggvagata 14 Perennial favourite, Argentína is a fine Those with a bit of money and time on A veritable institution in central Reykja- terranean, as all traditional coffee shops dic K, presumably in an effort to seem downtown Reykjavík, situated in one of able and straightforward place to relax. you want to call it, Kaffibrennslan is a dining steak house. For whale-etarians, their hands would do well to spend an vík, and probably the most consistently Roma, at the far end of the main street This authentic Thai restaurant is one of should be, and this place makes you feel more cosmopolitan. This ploy seems to the more ideal locations for such an in- It’s also known as a hangout for the ‘in- consistently pleasant place to go for you can also sample the local Minke, or evening or two at Tapas, having course successful business the city has seen, Laugavegur, is a deli-type coffee house the better bargains in town. We chal- warm, both with its atmosphere and the be working, as the bar has become a stitution in the city. It’s divided between tellectual’ circles of Reykjavík, as well as snacks and refreshments of whatever excellent fish. This restaurant has main- after course of wonderful miniature Bæjarins Bestu is actually just a simple offering a variety of breads, soup and lenge you to find a better meal for the generosity of the coffee refills. hangout for older foreigners. The Viking two floors, although the distinction some media types, the opposite of ‘intel- variety you happen to crave. They also tained its reputation with three things: dishes served to them. Oddly, it’s also a hot dog stand. Their menu consists of tempting cookies, cakes and other sweet same price anywhere else. They have ship sitting on top of the building might between the ambiance on the top and lectual’ in this country. Music is almost have the largest selection of beers in perfect cuts of meat, excellent service, great place to get tasty and affordable hot dogs and Coke – and nothing else. things. Their specials around lunch time their menu outside with numbered co- also add to the appeal. The crowd is very bottom floors has faded away in recent never played at Ölstofan – so you can Reykjavík. We recommend the Cobra and an excellent wine list. lobster. If you don’t feel like getting up You don’t have to be a Buddhist to ask are always a bargain. lour images. Just say the number and eat mixed, both in origin and age, and so is times. actually have a conversation. and Staroprammen. right away afterwards, there’s also a them to make you one with everything. the food. the music. lounge.

2 Ráðhúskaffi 9 Kaffitár 16 Vegamót 23 Café Cultura 26 Thorvaldsen 29 Glaumbar 32 Tveir Fiskar 35 Vín og Skel 38 Sægreifinn 45 Subway City Hall Bankastræti 8 Vegamótastígur 4 Hverfisgata 18 Austurstræti 8 Tryggvagata 20 Geirsgata 9 Laugavegur 55 Geirsgata Austurstræti Ráðhúskaffi, situated inside the Reykja- This is the downtown store of one of the Vegamót (crossroads) has an appealing The trendy Café Cultura is located in the This place is fancy, and it knows it. Civil- Partly a sports bar, Glaumbar is also a Located right by the harbour, Tveir Fis- If you like fresh seafood and are in the Places recommended for their local touch You know exactly what you get when vík City Hall, is a comfortable choice for country’s finest coffee importers, and the lunch menu, they serve brunch during same building as the Intercultural Centre, ian attire is looked down upon, so don’t popular venue for live bands and DJs, but kar boasts some of the freshest fish in mood for something a little different, tend to instantly loses any element of the you walk into a Subway restaurant, and the view over Tjörnin (the pond). It’s es- quality of the product is as excellent as the weekends, and the kitchen is open and has a distinct international flavour. A expect to get in wearing hiking boots. mostly it’s just a good place to get drunk town – they prefer it to still be mov- this cosy but ambitious restaurant just exotic, but Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) is their sub sandwiches are always made pecially convenient on Iceland’s so-called you would expect. While anything here until 22:00 daily. After that the beat goes good-value menu, friendly service and DJs play on Thursdays, Fridays and Sat- and party. They can host private gath- ing when they buy it. Their menu also might fit the bill. Shellfish, salmon, an exception. It’s a combination of a fish from fresh ingredients – right in front ‘window weather’ days – the days that is good, the speciality coffee drinks are on, and you can check the end results in settings that allow you to either sit down urdays. Arrive before 12 if you want to erings before midnight on weekdays, dares to be different, and this just squid, lobster and other creatures of the store and a... well, not exactly a restau- of your eyes. Reasonably priced and far are only beautiful if you stay indoors. truly remarkable: our favourite, the Az- photos published the day after on their and carry on discussions, or dance the avoid the queue. and you would be hard pressed to get might be your only chance to sample deep predominate the menu here. There rant but a place that serves prepared healthier than most alternatives – pro- Coffee, light snacks, art exhibitions, In- teca, an espresso drink with lime and website www.vegamot.is. If you like Oli- night away. a better deal on a keg party than here. the debatable delights of raw dolphin. is no smoking in the restaurant, but if food, located in a harbour warehouse. vided you show some restraint when you ternet access, a topographic model of Tabasco. ver, try Vegamót and vice versa. you want to have a go at sitting out- Smell of fish, the view over the harbour, order. Iceland and municipal politics: all conve- side there are fleece blankets provided. an old man that looks exactly like an Ice- niently under the same roof. landic fisherman should. What’s not to love? WWW. 3 Grái Kötturinn 10 Segafredo 17 B5 39 Shalimar 46 Nonnabiti GRAPE Hverfisgata 16a By Lækjartorg Bankastræti 5 DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK Austurstræti 4 Hafnarstræti 11 Grái Kötturinn (the grey cat) is a cosy Italian coffee chain Segafredo seems to B5 is a bistro with a Scandinavian focus 41 Prides itself on being the northernmost Almost certainly the best junk food in the place that’s especially popular during be doing brisk business by Lækjartorg, on the menu. Don’t be fooled by the im- Indian/Pakistani restaurant in the world. Greater Reykjavík area, and extremely VINE.IS the morning hours. Their breakfast is with locals and tourists alike flocking to pressive collection of design classics that Hafnarstræti 44 Their cooks know exactly what they are popular with drunken youths on week- legendary, but they tend not to be open sip their espressos at the conveniently you see in the window when passing by 33 doing with the spices and as a result we ends. This place has none of that Sub- later in the day. A great place to nurse a placed tables outside. The staff are ex- – it’s neither cold nor overly expensive, 45 have given them two glowing reviews way commitment to healthy living, and NEWS | PODCASTS hangover, or just to start the workday. pert baristi, and, even though Iceland is but rather a cosy place with friendly ser- Austurstræti 46 and a ‘Bezt í Heimi’ recommendation in they probably contribute significantly to 42 LISTINGS | REVIEWS proud of its coffee, nobody quite tops vice. 39 10 the past. You can still see the latter ar- the ever-increasing “size” of the nation. the Segafredo latte. 26 ticle hanging in their window – and we They also serve burgers and sandwiches, 6 stand by it. and have lunchtime offers. 21 22 28 18 49 Bankas17 Ingólfsstræti 43 træ BARS 'N' BISTROS ti 11 3 4 Kaffi Hljómalind 11 18 Rósenberg 23 40 Við tjörnina 47 Hamborgarabúlla Laugavegur 21 Sólon Lækjargata 2 Lækjargata 9 Templarasund 3 Tómasar (Búllan) Despite hosting the occasional rock con- Bankastræti 7a Perhaps the closest thing to a jazz club 24 20 Hverfisgata If you’re looking for high-quality food in Geirsgata 1 Laugavegur19 cert, Kaffi Hljómalind is a peaceful café Sólon is a nightclub on Friday and Satur- in town, here old instruments line the a unique but cosy setting it doesn’t get with perfect windows for people watch- walls. People go there for conversation 5 14 much better than Við Tjörnina (literally, Tómas originally popularised the ham- day nights, but during the daytime it’s a burger in Iceland when he opened his ing and a lot of daylight. It’s run by a café/bistro. On weeknights they’re a res- and to listen to music rather than dance. By the Pond). They’re known for their Skólavörðustígur famous Tommaborgarar shop. A couple non-profit organisation and only serves taurant with a decent menu as well, and The place tends to have jazz- or blues- SPOT THIS: Jólahúsið 13 traditional living room décor and innova- 16 tígur 8 of decades and business ventures later organic & fair-trade products. It’s strictly an art exhibition on the walls to finish type music, and is developing a blue- tive fish dishes made from a variety of Skólavörðustígur 21a, 101 Reykjavík, Tel: 568 8181 he has gone back to the basics and now a non-smoking establishment. the package. grass scene. 25 fresh catches. The ambiance is some- 48 thing you have to experience to truly has one of the most popular fast food Iceland’s House of Christmas is the Christ- as well as ornaments from around the restaurants downtown – affectionately Klappars appreciate. mas fanatic’s Disneyworld. This true gate- world. Guaranteed to get you in the holi- 30 known as Búllan (the joint). way to the colourful world of Christmas day spirit. offers hand painted Icelandic handicrafts FAST FOOD 5 Mokka 12 Litli Ljóti 19 Grand Rokk 41 48 First Vegetarian Skólavörðustígur 3a Smiðjustígur 6 38 47 Andarunginn 32 American Style (Á næstu grösum) Kaffi Mokka is one of the oldest cafés in Lækjargata 6b As the Viking-style garden and logo Tryggvagata 26 Laugavegur 20b Reykjavík, dating back to the 1950s. Fa- Known for its all you can eat fish buffet, accurately signal, this hardcore chess 31 Famous for their burgers and fries, One of the first places in Reykjavík to mous for their dark, smoky atmosphere, this restaurant/guesthouse is also a fine hangout is no place for the weak. Yes, American Style actually serves a variety specialise in vegetarian and vegan dishes. loyal clientele and some of the best waf- place to sit down and relax with a latté chess bars are that tough in Iceland. 37 29 of American-influenced dishes with a Despite having changed owners a couple fles in town. or some beer when suffering from a case Even if the downstairs atmosphere can 27 strong local flavour. You get the feeling of years back, the quality has remained of severe hipster-burn. feel a bit ominous at times, it’s one of the best venues for live music in town. 15 that you are expected to eat a great deal, consistent and you almost get the feel- If you speak Icelandic you can also take Austurstræti so loosen your belt a bit before you dig ing that the place is being run on sheer part in the pub quiz on Fridays at 17:30. Bankastræ Ingólfsstræti in. principle as much as anything else. Participation is free and the winner walks ti Hverfisgata away with a case of beer! 40 12 SkólavörðustígurLaugav 2 36 Lækjargata egur 6 Ömmukaffi 13 Kaffibarinn 20 Bar 11 35 42 Pizza King 49 Kebabhúsið Austurstræti Bergstaðastræti 1 Laugavegur 11 43 4 Hafnarstræti 18 Lækjargata 2 The name literally means “grandma’s Kaffibarinn has a reputation as a hang- While the place is only open on the Tjarnargata 34 Most people get to know Pizza King af- Some of the best fish and chips in town coffee shop,” but here you can find out for artists and others who think they weekends, Bar 11 is a popular rock bar Þingholtsstræti ter a late-night drinking session leaves can be found at Kebabhúsið, and they people of all ages and all nationalities. It are hip. Friday and Saturday nights serve on Laugavegur and one of the main late- 7 them tired and hungry downtown, and it obviously have a selection of kebabs as Bergstaðastræti has a very friendly, down-to-earth feel to as the weekly peaks of claustrophobia, night party venues in town. You’ll feel Frakkastígur truly is a lifesaver in those situations. The well. The falafel comes recommended, it. Affordable prices on coffee, cakes and while weekdays and afternoons can be the floor jumping every Friday and Sat- difference between Pizza King and some despite being a relatively unappreciated the lunch menu. Try their speciality, the comfortable, if banal. urday, and it’s neither you nor an earth- Óðinsgata less savoury fast food options downtown menu item in Iceland, and the beef and South African latte. quake. Live concerts and a nice foosball 1 is that you would be happy to go back to lamb pitas are quite good as well. table upstairs. eat there while sober, and their special lunch offers make that a very attractive Barónsstígur option. Icelandic food with an Asian flare

7 Babalú 14 Sirkus 21 Hressó 24 Prikið 27 Kaffi Amsterdam 30 Dillon 33 Hornið 36 Tjarnarbakkinn 43 Bernhöftsbakarí 50 Vitabar Open Dec 24th and 31st. Skólavörðustígur 22a Klapparstígur 30 Austurstræti 20 Bankastræti 12 Hafnarstræti 5 Laugavegur 30 Hafnarstræti 15 Vonarstræti 3 Bergstaðastræti 13 Bergþórugata 21 Reservations Only One of the youngest coffeehouses in Of absolutely no relation to the trashy The celebrated site of one of the more Prikið has changed noticeably in charac- Kaffi Amsterdam is a cosy tavern lo- Legendary Icelandic rockers have been Means “the corner” and the place lives Tjarnarbakkinn is right above the Iðnó The oldest bakery in Reykjavík, founded Actually a bar, but best known for its Reykjavík is also the homiest. Almost like culture guide, or trashy TV station that famous coffeehouses in Iceland, this bar/ ter in recent years, as it used to be an cated in the centre of Reykjavik. Known known to DJ at this place from time to up to its name by… well, being on a theatre, so it’s an ideal place to go be- in 1834. If you are particular about your hamburgers. A burger with fries for 500 Vegan and Vegetarian Options available a living room away from home, Babalú stole its name, Sirkus is worshipped like café/bistro brings a European flair to the old-fashioned and traditional downtown mostly for its rambling late-hour drinking time, and Þröstur from Mínus has even corner. This is actually the oldest Italian fore shows, or during if you prefer a bread this is about the best place in is one of the best meal deals in town, but keeps it simple, quiet and cosy with cof- few other locales in Iceland. Elements of city. That is until about 11, when things coffeehouse. Somehow the younger crowd, Amsterdam recently established tended the bar. You can pretty much guar- restaurant in town, celebrating its 27th more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by central Reykjavík to stock up on a vari- special mention must go to the Forget- fee and the occasional crêpe. the odd and alternative cultural institu- get to rockin’, and you can see the true crowd caught on and transformed the itself as a fresh new venue for the city’s antee this place will be rocking any time year, and it always seems to be consis- the window you get nice view of the ety of freshly baked loaves – they also Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extrava- RESERVATIONS 867-4448 or [email protected] Baronstígur 2-4, 101 Reykjavik tion include an upstairs that looks and character of Reykjavík. place to its present form: a diner during music talent. you walk in on a Friday or Saturday night. tently popular. Excellent quality pizza, pond, and in the summers you can do a particularly moist and juicy version ganza. Restaurant open 6-10pm daily. smells like a bus, a garden, a flea market the day and a rowdy nightclub on week- pasta and salads – all priced affordably. enjoy your meal outside. The lamb of the ever popular vínarbrauð pastries. and a queue on weekend nights that ends. You can also borrow board games comes especially recommended; it’s You can even call ahead and have your looks never-ending. there, such as backgammon or chess, one of those rare traditional Icelandic favourite items reserved, if you’re afraid and it is a popular breakfast spot early dishes that aren’t an acquired taste. someone else might beat you to that last in the morning. snúður or kleina.

INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE Discover THE ORIGINAL EASTERN TASTE IN THE WEST AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel: 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B8_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_REVIEWS/FOOD RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_BEZT Í HEIMI_B9

COME TO THE NORTHERNMOST Argentína Steakhouse Perlan Siggi Hall INDIAN-PAKISTANI CUISINE AND TRY ONE OF THE MOST Barónsstígur 11a, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 551 9555 Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík, Tel.: 562 0200 Þórsgata 1, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 511 6677 SAUCY, SNAZZY, & SPICY Although mostly famous for its tender Argentinean grilled Dining at Perlan is always an uplifting experience, if not only First off, Siggi Hall does not offer a traditional style buffet. beef steaks, Argentína’s Christmas buffet this year is Ameri- for the fact that the restaurant is located near the top of a Rather, the various dishes from the buffet are grouped to- CURRIES IN ICELAND. can style with the featured item being turkey in all its vari- grand structure, providing an excellent view of Reykjavík. The gether on tray according to tradition; starting with fish cours- ations. floor even revolves at a slow and steady pace. The restaurant es, moving on to cold meat dishes, then hot meat dishes The atmosphere at Argentína has little to do with Amer- has experienced bouts of greatness interspersed with low and finally the desert table. It was certainly nothing I had ica though, but everything to do with the southern charm. points during its fifteen year run; while the service and at- expected, but I can honestly say that this method of present- Seated next to the dancing flames at the fireplace where my mosphere has always been of the highest standard, the food ing the Christmas buffet exceeds the more traditional buffet INDIAN INDIAN companion and I were served Christmas beers as appetizers, itself is less consistently good, although the last few years style. The only drawback is that you cannot see what you LUNCH DINNER we felt a need to finishing our drinks as fast as possible and have seen a change for the better. have to look forward to, so restraint in the first two rounds get right to the good stuff, as we witnessed one guest after “Christmas buffets” have long been popular in Iceland, is hard to muster, leaving you full by the time you get to the 990.- 1190.- another walk to their tables holding hearty dishes with all serving as a venue for families or co-workers to sneak a pre- main courses. BEZT Í HEIMI: Thorvaldsens Bazar sorts of delicacies. view of impending holiday feasts. Arriving for this purpose For me, the key to a good Christmas buffet lies in the After serving us turkey cappuccino (yes, that is right) with on a Monday night, my companion and I were met with a essentials. Several dishes are imperative, while others could Austurstræti 4, 101 Reykjavík, Tel.: 551 3509 pumpkin foam as a starter our waiter enlightened us on the pleasant Christmassy atmosphere. After showing us to our be regarded as interchangeable. The first real test is the her- wines we could choose from, carefully selected by the res- table, our waiter (who provided a competent and profes- ring. With six different varieties on offer, the standout was Located inside a dignified wooden building on the cor- for us for many years, but in addition to that, we buy taurant’s sommelier and specially recommended to suit the sional service throughout our stay) brought us a nice glass of the herring with mustard sauce, with the very Icelandic Bren- ner of Austurstræti and Veltusund, Thorvaldsen’s Bazar clothes from wholesale firms. The children’s clothes and INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE feast. Our waiter chose a bottle of Argentinean red wine, Chianti and a pre-starter in the form of wild geese soup. nivínssíld, or Black Death marinated herring a close runner is among the oldest shops in Reykjavík. Opening its the woollen underclothes, available for men, women which was an excellent pick and made a perfect combo with The cream infused soup tasted fine, if bland, and was up. However, the curry herring was not very exciting, while doors in 1901, the Bazar has from day one specialised and children, have been very popular and the woollen AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is all the diverse dishes. actually more reminiscent of standard mushroom soup. The the other varieties fell somewhere in between. The tradition- in selling souvenirs, handicrafts and wooden products, sweaters as well.” Not surprisingly, as these are quality Guiding us to the elaborate buffet he told us it was di- starter table was an altogether more exciting affair. Choos- al Icelandic salmon was also a highpoint. mostly hand-knitted by Icelandic women who needed products. In addition to the good selection of the tra- vided into four sections. As entrées we could choose from ing from a wide selection of starters, we sample bits of ev- The most essential of the essential Christmas foods, Ice- a place to sell their products. Thorvaldsen’s Bazar has ditional Icelandic woollen sweaters (lopapeysa), socks, pickled salmon, beef carpaccio with rucola and parmigiano, ery available course. The whale carpaccio was well suited for landic hangikjöt, or smoked lamb along with the second most been located at the same downtown spot since 1905 gloves, hats and other hand-knitted warm clothing for turkey salad, marinated beef with horseradish sauce, rein- fans of such delights (which I am), marinated herring on rye essential dish, the smoked pork fillet, were both featured on and through the years its business has evolved with the winter can be bought for a reasonable price. deer pâté and marinated shellfish. The cold main course sec- has yet to let down and some smoked eel on boiled eggs the second tray. The hangikjöt is prepared in every Icelan- changed shopping habits. Still run by the same organi- As Christmas draws closer, their classic Christmas tion was more traditional, featuring the classic holiday dish, fit the mood nicely. Not as fitting to the Christmas theme dic home around Christmas, with each family preparing the sation that opened the store in the beginning of the stamps and Christmas cards now fill the shelves next smoked fillet of pork with red cabbage and corn, smoked (which just screamed “traditional Icelandic!”) were tomatoes meat according to traditions passed on through generation. last century, the Thorvaldsen Society, a women’s charity to the counter. There they get renowned Icelandic art- “One of Europe’s turkey breast, turkey galiante, and all sorts of side dishes. The with mozzarella and basil and a Tandoori style chicken. Obviously, with such a dish, everyone has their own idea on organisation established on 19 November 1875, counts ists to paint the pictures: Kjarval, Bertel Thorvaldsen tender lamb fillet and juicy turkey breast served with stuff- The main buffet table was loaded with many a salty deli- how the meat should taste, look and feel. I realise that there approximately 80 members today. and Nína Tryggvadóttir to name a few. The stamps have finest ensembles.” - BBC Music Magazine ing, sweet potatoes and at least three tasty sauces, was no cacy. The casserole and reindeer ball courses were actually is never a single right way to prepare hangikjöt, but to my The women working in the store each day serve been for sale since 1913 and collectors from all around less inviting than the previous courses. so salty that I had a hard time finishing them. Another draw- taste the meat was a tad to smoked and the flavour a little to voluntarily, and all profits are donated to charity work. the world wait with anticipation every year for the new- upcoming concerts A special note has to be taken to the service, which was back was the pre-boiled potatoes served. We had better luck strong. The smoked pork fillet, a main course for my family Particularly supporting children in need, the Thorvald- est addition. SAturdAy, December 9th @ 5:00 tHurSdAy, January 11th @ 7.30 friendly and relaxed. Our waiter took good care of the wine with the turkey-leg course and the hangikjöt (smoked lamb) on , was cooked exactly to my liking. sen Society has bought equipment and sponsored facili- Sigurbergsdóttir tells me that their largest clien- advent concert young soloists Conductor ::: Jonas Alber Conductor ::: esa Häkkilä and the used plates were always gone when we arrived back was exquisite. They even managed to get the white sauce Although a word must be reserved for the excellent rein- ties at the children’s hospital, supported the psychiatric tele are tourists who want to buy something special to Soloist ::: denyce Graves Soloists ::: eygló dóra davíðsdóttir to our booth. right, which is uncommon for restaurants. The absolute high deer steak and the exquisite potato gratin, I must mention ward BUGL for adolescents, the organisation Save the take back home. And the variety is distinct. In addition egill Árni pálsson and Grímur Helgason Although absolutely full after round three we couldn’t point of the evening was tender and juicy venison, served the superb desert table. While the crème brûlée and the ti- Children Iceland and the movement Young and Sober to the clothes and Christmas stuff, Icelandic jewellery SAturdAy, Desember 16th @ 2:00pM SAturdAy, December 16th @ 5:00pM tHurSdAy, January 18th @ 7.30 say no to the appetising chocolate cake that had stared at us with an addictive wild mushroom sauce. ramisu tasted heavenly, it was the pavlove with berries and for example. Recently, the society started a 10 million like necklaces decorated with lava, runic letters, Thor’s family christmas concert Conductor ::: petri Sakari every time we walked from the buffet to the table. Various After wondering what Latin styled background music vanilla sauce that made my day. ISK fund for diabetic children. In light of all this, the Ba- hammer or other ancient Icelandic symbols as well as Conductor ::: Bernharður Wilkinson Soloist ::: reka Szivay other cholesterol-bombs filled up the dessert table and the had to do with Christmas, we headed to the dessert table With his firm grip on the Christmas essentials, and deli- zar has to be noted as a store well worth the desirable the large variety of Icelandic souvenirs, toys and quality Soloist ::: Hulda Jónsdóttir Béla Bartók ::: Violin Concerto no. 2 Choir ::: Gradualekór Langholtskirkju Anton Bruckner ::: Symphony no. 7 irresistible cake, served with caramel sauce, tasted as good – and what a table. Laden with sugary cakes, ice creams and cious augmentations in the “interchangeables,” Siggi Hall’s title Bezt í Heimi. handmade products make up a list of nice Christmas Leroy Anderson ::: A Christmas Festival as it looked. cheeses, it was without a doubt the high point of our eve- Christmas buffet is a delicious treat, easily recommended for When browsing through all the shop has to offer, presents to send to friends abroad as well as the family Mendelsohn ::: Violin Concerto, 1st mvt. tHurSdAy, January 25th @ 7.30 ning. all. the friendly service is instantly noticeable. Greeted by at home. tchaikovsky ::: the , 4 mvt. dark music days Conductor ::: roland Kluttig Sigríður Sigurbergsdóttir, the Thorvaldssen Society’s WedNeSdAy, January 3rD @ 7.30pM Soloists ::: Guðrún Birgisdóttir, chairwoman, she tells the Grapevine that the women Opening hours: Monday to Friday 9-18, tHurSdAy, January 4th @ 7.30pM Martial Nardeau love the downtown atmosphere and that the shop is still Saturday and Sunday 10-14. FridAy, January 5th @ 7.30pM Örlygur Benediktsson ::: A new piece SAturdAy, January 6th @ 5:00pM Karólína eiríksdóttir ::: Concerto f. two flutes as well appreciated as it was over a hundred years ago. vienna concerts erik Mogensen ::: rendez-vous Reviewed by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Reviewed by Haukur Magnússon Reviewed by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson “We have a range of women who have been knitting Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Conductor ::: Christopher Warren-Green Herbert H. Ágústsson ::: Concerto breve Soloist ::: Þóra einarsdóttir Music by Johan Strauss Jr.

tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is or tel. 545 2500. BERGSTAÐASTRÆTI 13 All concerts take place in Háskólabíó unless otherwise noted. - PHONE: 551 3083

Oldest bakery in Iceland since 1834 F í t o n / S Í A

fl group is the main sponsor of the iceland symphony orchestra B10_RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_ULTIMATE SURVIVAL GUIDE RVK_GV_INFO_ISSUE18_2006_DESIGN AND MUSIC_B11

Services Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, Service in English is at Hallgrímskirkja Icelandic citizenship although some Useful Numbers 09-16. www.kleif.is every last Saturday each month, start- exceptions exist to that general rule. Emergency number: 112 Information on day tours, accommo- ing at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Applications are at the Ministry of Hot Spring River This River? Police: 569 9000 Getting Around dations, car rental and everything else Church also has masses in English and Justice and Ecclesiastical Affairs, Medical help: 1770 Public transport you need to know when travelling in Polish. Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, Dental emergency: 575 0505 The only public transport system in Iceland. Other religious movements in Reykja- www.domsmalaraduneyti.is (Or: Who’s Sheep is This?) AA: 551 2010 Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run Iceland Visitor vík are for example: Unemployment benefits: Director- Information: 118 every 20 minutes and price per fare is Lækjargata 2, Tel: 511 2442, The Muslim Association of Iceland, ate of Labour, Public Employment Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Skari Telegrams: 146 250 ISK for adults and 75 ISK for chil- www.icelandvisitor.com Ármúli 38 Service, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 515 4800, Tax Free Refund dren. Complete route map at: www. A travel agency offering travelling Ásatrú Association, Grandagarði 8 www.vinnumalastofnun.is The aluminium smelter in Straumsvík, the more debated in Iceland. That’s why we Iceland Refund, bus.is. Tel: 540 2700 package trips and custom-made tours Bahá’í, Álfabakka 12 Icelandic social security number slogan “Kanamella” (Yankee-whore) printed printed the aluminium smelter in Straumsvík Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on as well as car rental, day tours and The Church of Evangelism, (kennitala): National Register, Bor- over a picture of Iceland, and a portrait of on a t-shirt. It’s one of the first landmarks www.icelandrefund.com weekdays and 10:00-24:00 on week- accommodations for visitors. Hlíðasmári 9 gartún 30, Tel: 560 9800, former Minister of Industry and Trade and tourists notice when driving from Keflavík Laundry Service ends Tourist Information Centre The Icelandic Buddhist Movement, www.hagstofa.is current Foreign Minister, Valgerður Sver- to Reykjavík. And Sverrisdóttir, she has to be HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, Rent a bike Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, Víghólastígur 21 Driver’s license: Those who have a risdóttir, can now be seen on the chest of noted as the face of Iceland’s heavy industry. Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Borgarhjól, Hverfisgata 50, www.visitreykjavik.is Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, foreign license don’t need an Icelandic conscious locals who have caught on to the Sverrisdóttir is also an elegant woman, which Úðafoss, Vitastígur 13, Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net Offers information for tourists as well Fríkirkjuvegur 5 one for the first six months. After that web-based t-shirt store www.howdoyou- belongs on a t-shirt.” Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is HI Hostel, Sundlaugarvegur 34, as providing internet access, booking Pentecostal Assembly, Hátún 2 time you have one month to apply for likeiceland.is. Loving its black humour and Getting ideas for new designs hasn’t Post Office Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is service, a phone centre, money ex- Roman Catholic Church, an Icelandic driver’s license. Applica- critical, yet comic speculations regarding Ice- been difficult, as the Icelandic government, Post offices are located around the Tourist Information Centre, change service, tax refund and selling Hávallagata 14 tions are at police stations. land’s reality, the company, established ear- politicians and the general public are just giv- city as well as in the countryside. Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The Reykja- Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, lier this year, has been growing steadily. The ing away subjects to tackle. The downtown post office is at www.visitreykjavik.is vík Tourist Card gives admission to city Day Saints, Ásabraut 2 Tel: 563 1100, www.rsk.is Grapevine met with Þórður Snær Júlíusson “The government is constantly making Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full list and Taxi busses, various museums, Reykjavík Jehovah’s Witnesses, Sogavegur 71 Rent subsidies: Social Service Office, and Orri Guðjónsson to learn more about mistakes, which gives us both ideas and mo- info on opening hours visit www. Hreyfill-Bæjarleiðir, swimming pools, The Family Park and Seventh-Day Adventists, Tryggvagata 17, Tel: 411 9000 www. their political messages. tivation to point them out so they get to live posturinn.is. Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House and Suðurhlíð 36 felagsthjonustan.is “When me and Orri went on a backpack- longer than the split second they get in the Stamps are also sold in bookstores, BSR, Tel: 561 0000 the National and University Library. Zen Buddhism in Iceland, ing trip around the world we started see- media,” Þórður says. “Our newest addition, gas stations, some grocery stores and For disabled travellers The Icelandic Tourist Board Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Facts on Iceland ing Iceland in a different light and thought the phrase-shirt Neither A Bird Nor A Fish, tourist shops. Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Independent Church, Iceland is a constitutional repub- it would be funny to grasp all its flaws and where we string together a puffin and cod- Embassies and Consulates Brunastaðir 3, Tel: 587 8030, www. www.visiticeland.com Háteigsvegur 101 lic with slightly more than 300,000 cheesy elements by printing them on t-shirts, fish, could be connected with Árni Johnsen in Iceland randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_trav- All information needed before travel- The Russian Orthodox Church in inhabitants. Reykjavík has been the with the slogan, How Do You Like Iceland?” for example. He is neither a bird nor a fish, United States, Laufásvegur 21, el_service/ ling in Iceland. Iceland, Sólvallagata 10 country’s capital since 1786 and today Þórður tells me. he likes puffins and this puffin-cod creature Tel: 562 9100 A useful brochure, Accessible Reykja- Goethe Institute The Cross, Hlíðasmári 5-7 almost two-thirds of the population Some of the t-shirt slogans are popular might be called a technical error, right? But United Kingdom, Laufásvegur 31, vík, can be found at tourist offices. Túngata 14, Tel: 561 5921, Trade Unions live in the greater capital area. catch-phrases translated into English, mak- in all seriousness we want to remind people Tel: 550 5100 Car rentals www.goethe.de/island The Icelandic Federation of Labour, The 17th of June 1944 Iceland ing no sense whatsoever in that language. about how we are sometimes being screwed Russia, Garðastræti 33, Átak Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, A cultural institute that offers movie Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, www.asi.is became an independent republic. The phrase I Stand on the Duck (a direct over,” Þórður says and designer Orri agrees: Tel: 551 5156 Tel: 554 6040 screenings, lectures and German The Federation of State and Mu- That day is the national holiday and is translation of Ég stend á öndinni) is a good “We have many ideas and believe that China, Víðimelur 29, ALP, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 language courses. nicipal employees, Grettisgata 89, celebrated all around the country. example, which more idiomatically translates with the t-shirts we can keep the discussion Tel: 552 6751 Avis, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Nordic House Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is Alþingi, the national parliament, to: I am breathless. alive and hopefully change society for the For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Eurocar, Hjallahraun 9, Tel: 565 3800 Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, The Association of Academics, Bor- is the oldest assembly in the world, “All these typical Icelandic phrases are better. Now it’s just a question of manufac- Affairs: www.mfa.is/diplomatic-mis- A.G Car Rental, Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.nordice.is gartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, www.bhm.is established at Þingvellir in 930 but very uncool, especially when you translate turing more t-shirts.” sions/icelandic-missions/ Tel: 587 5544 The Nordic cultural centre organises Efling, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, restored in Reykjavík in 1844. The par- them word for word. Then they lose all “We could even call ourselves the com- Internet Access Atlas Car Rental, Dalshraun 9, various cultural events, conferences www.efling.is liament is comprised of 63 members, meaning but become quite funny. With the munity service project How Do You Like Ice- Most coffeehouses have wireless Tel: 565 3800 and exhibitions. The Commercial Workers’ Union, who are elected by popular vote every t-shirts, we want to celebrate all the distinc- land?” Þórður adds. Internet access. Berg Car Rental, Tangarhöfða 8, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is four years. Icelandic citizens over 18 tive features Iceland has and show that the While planning a shopping-mania shirt Computers with Internet connections Tel: 577 6050 offer brochures, maps and information Union of Public Servants, Grettis- years of age have the legal right to county is not all the glamour we’re selling for Christmas and preparing for a fashion are available at: Hertz, Flugvallavegur, Tel: 505 0600 for travellers. gata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is vote. to tourists. Buying t-shirts like ours, you are show in Luxembourg, they would also like to Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Tjarnargata 11 Airlines Useful Websites Parliamentary elections were last buying a piece of the society as it is today and encourage other designers to contact them BSÍ Bus Terminal, Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Useful Information www.visitreykjavik.is (The official held in 2003 with 33.7 percent of a part of the common discussion, instead of with ideas for a new line. The t-shirts are Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Where to learn Icelandic as a tourist website of Reykjavík) votes going to the Independence some sort of stereotypical memories,” Þórður now available at the website www.howdoy- Ground Zero, Vallarstræti 10 Air Vestmannaeyjar, Tel: 481 3255, foreign language www.gayice.is (Information about Party. The Social Democratic Alliance explains. He goes on to add, “Take heavy in- oulikeiceland.is with plans for further outlets The Reykjavík City Library, www.eyjaflug.is Icelandic on the Internet, the gay scene in Iceland) got 31 percent, the Progressive Party dustry for example. Fewer things have been in the future. Tryggvagata 15 Bus Terminal www.vefskoli.is www.fjolmenningarsetur.is 17.7 percent, the Leftist-Greens 8.8 The National and University Li- BSÍ, Vatnsmýrarvegur 10, Mímir Continuing Education, (The Multicultural Centre) percent and the Liberal Party 7.4 per- brary, Arngrímsgata 3 Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is www.hostel.is cent. The Independence Party and the Tourist Information Centre, Samferda.net Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, (Hostel International in Iceland) Progressive Party formed a coalition Aðalstræti 2 A reasonable choice for the budget Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 www.vinnumalastofnun.is and together lead the government. Chaplin’s Genius Meets Icelandic Travel Market: Bankastræti 2 traveller. You log on to the website Fjölmenning, Laugavegur 59, (Public employment services) Iceland has 12 ministers with the Opening hours www.samferda.net, choose your Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmenning.is www.gulalinan.is (The yellow pages) prime minister and head of govern- Bars and clubs: According to regula- destination and hopefully find a travel The Icelandic College of Engineer- www.leigulistinn.is (Rent a flat) ment being Geir H. Haarde, who is A Finely Tuned Orchestra tions bars may be open until 01:00 on buddy to share the cost. ing and Technology, Höfðabakki 9, www.simaskra.is also chairman of the Independence weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is (Icelandic telephone directory) Party. The President of Iceland is Ólafur Text by Haukur S. Magnússon Photo by Skari Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun Cultural Centres and Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, Where to get … Ragnar Grímsson, who has been in closed. The shopping centres Kringlan Tourist Offices Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Work and residence permit: The office since 1996. He is the Chief of Now, it is generally accepted that in films, was properly immersed in the movie and its and Smáralind as well as most super- The Intercultural Centre www.ir.is Directorate of Immigration, Skógarhlíð State although his duties are mostly music has a very specific purpose. It is meant plot, I frequently had to remind myself why markets and tourist shops have longer The Intercultural Centre throws oc- The University of Iceland – Depart- 6, Tel: 510 5400, www.utl.is. ceremonial. to enhance and complement the mood the I had come in the first place; the music was opening hours. casional cultural events and confer- ment of Continuing Education, Insurance and benefits: The State Time Zone: GMT 0 director is trying to establish, and can con- flawlessly executed and sounded so good Swimming pools: weekdays ences but its main purpose is to be an Dunhagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, Social Security Institute, Laugavegur Currency: Íslensk króna (ISK). tribute greatly to the overall experience of that it might as well have been coming from 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00-20:30 information and counselling centre www.endurmenntun.is 114-116, Tel: 560 4400, www.tr.is International Dialling Code: +354 the film, even to the extent of determining the theatre’s high quality sound system. The although some may be open an hour and serve as an advocate for the rights Religious movements Icelandic citizenship: Unless you Weather: Average temperature dur- whether it is any good or not. As it is a back- only tell-tale signs that this was in fact a live longer. of immigrants in Iceland. The national church in Iceland is the come from a Nordic country, foreign ing summer is around 10ºC and winter ground element rather than a focal point, it performance by Iceland’s classical elite were The State owned ÁTVR liquor Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 Evangelical Lutheran Church. Masses citizens have to have had an unre- 0ºC. For information on weather in is often stated that film music is at its best the rare occasions when they fumbled and stores: Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat www.ahus.is are generally held on Sundays at 11:00 stricted residence permit in Iceland for Iceland visit www.vedur.is or Tel: 902 when it blends in with the atmosphere to drew one’s attention away from Chaplin’s 11-18. Icelandic Travel Market in churches all around the capital. at least seven years in order to get an 0600. the point of being unnoticeable. All of this plateau. makes attending a concert where the Icelan- Nevertheless, after mulling this over while dic Symphony Orchestra performs the score the latter movie, The Kid, was beginning, I to two silent Chaplin movies consecutively a came to the conclusion that the orchestra did questionable task – although it turned out to indeed give off a certain warmth of tone and be a highly enjoyable one. general mood special to the performance. Performing to a theatre packed with I divided my attention between the perfor- family types out for a relaxed Saturday af- mance and the movie throughout the course ternoon at the cinema, the 45-piece orches- of The Kid (which has a very engaging plot) tra prepared itself onstage until conductor and came to the conclusion that this was a Frank Strobel made his appearance. After a worthy endeavour for the orchestra to em- brief comic introduction, Chaplin’s Idle Class bark upon, not the least since it seemed to started rolling on the silver screen while the be drawing children who wouldn’t normally orchestra ran through the director-penned get exposed to this kind of music. score. Highly befitting of a 1920s silent As for myself, I couldn’t help but wish comedy, the music had a playful quality to I had chosen some other performance to it, with the percussionists often adding gag properly acquaint myself with the obviously sound effects to augment the various on- competent orchestra. Maybe the film score screen shenanigans – timing them perfectly plays a larger part in silent movies than our for the most part. It quickly became appar- modern-day talkies, and witnessing it per- ent that the orchestra was taking great joy in formed live is certainly a novelty. I still feel their task, and such performances are always that the movies in question somewhat drew delightful to witness. away from the pleasure to be had from ex- When the lights turned low and one’s at- periencing a finely tuned and powerful or- tention focused on Charlie Chaplin’s comic chestra, and will certainly need to venture genius, it was often all too easy to forget that there again to witness what the orchestra is the orchestra was even there (in part due to capable of at its best. its accomplished sense of timing). When I REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_FEATURE/CURRENT EVENTS_19

Faulty Logic, Half-truths and Innuendos – The Liberal Party Fans the Flames of Xenophobia

Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Gulli

“The issue of immigration as such needs to be lowing workers from more disadvantaged Former Grapevine journalist Paul F. Niko- ployment market until some years later and in discussed. We need to decide how we prepare countries such as Poland, Slovakia and the lov, who launched a political movement called some cases not at all. The people who are co- Icelandic society to welcome immigrants. In a Baltic states to freely apply for work in Iceland the New Icelander’s Party to bring political at- ming to Iceland are coming here to work. This way, the government has opened the debate without applying for a special work permit. tention to the immigrant community, before is a migrant work force that has come here by not taking the initiative in this discussion. Despite being a member of the EEA, and running in the parliamentary primaries for the because the economy has been calling for it But the way the discourse has been presented therefore obligated to ratify EU regulation, Leftist-Green Party in the upcoming election and they are likely to leave and look for work lately by the Liberal Party, it is coming from an Iceland could have postponed the decision agrees with Hauksson, saying about the Libe- somewhere else when the economy slows entirely different direction.” for as long as seven years instead of two. The ral Party, “They are becoming a carbon copy down.” -Úlfar Hauksson, Assistant Professor of Politi- Liberal Party claims that a gross mistake was of the Danish People’s Party, and there is no In a lengthy discussion with the Grape- cal Science, University of Iceland made on behalf of the Icelandic government question they are doing it to drum up support. vine, Ragnar Árnason, head of labour market by not fully extending the adaptation period I agree that the immigrant issue needs to be division of the Confederation of Icelandic Em- Last month, Liberal Party member and former until the year 2011, thus allowing a flood of discussed, but it is not right to get people wor- ployers said that it would be best to forget reserve-MP Jón Magnússon, brought up the foreigners to Iceland who would do one of ked up based on rumours. The facts are squa- this discussion as soon as possible. He blamed topic of immigration in Iceland in a column in two things, be willing to work for lower wa- rely against them. Unemployment in Iceland the Liberal Party for blatantly over-simplifying the daily newspaper Blaðið, titled ‘Iceland for ges than Icelanders, thereby undercutting the is less than one percent. Instead of discussing the economic factors of the immigrant issue. Icelanders?’. Despite the obvious reference to wage market and rob Icelanders of their jobs the issue, they only want to talk about how “With the current level of construction in this racism in the title, Magnússon has maintained or they would come here to claim social bene- the party is being flooded with new people. country, we could never have met the de- that the core argument of his column is that fits and undercut our social welfare system. You cannot blame immigrants for being paid mand for work force with domestic workforce “the system is obviously not prepared to deal 2) The fear of a cultural clash by poin- less than Icelanders any more than you can only. So, obviously, the wage drift in Iceland with the growing influx of foreigners.” ting to immigration problems in other Nordic blame women for being paid less than men. would have been much greater if it was not Displaying incredible lack of respect for countries. It’s not like women are demanding lower wa- for the foreigners and companies would have the rules of logic, Magnússon claimed that The Liberal Party stance has particularly ges.” been forced to enter a bidding war for Icel- “if the influx of foreigners continues to grow been directed towards the working class, Nikolov touches on the subject of wage andic workers. The wage drift between years at the current rate, Icelanders will number while breeding ignorance, half-truths, preju- differences between Icelanders and immi- has been 10-11 percent, which is much more 400,000 (currently 300,000) by the year dice, and the mentality of us vs. them. One grants. The difference has mainly been ex- than in the surrounding countries, that num- 2015, and immigrants will number 80,000.” example, and by no means the only one, of plained by two factors. Immigrants have filled ber would have been substantially higher wit- Choosing to completely ignore the difference how their discourse has been conducted can jobs where Icelanders have failed to meet the hout foreign workers. We would have been between permanent immigrants to the coun- be found in a blog post by Liberal Party MP Si- demand in basic service industries and low- forced to ration developments to diminish the try and the migrant work force who are tem- gurjón Þórðarson from Nov. 5 where he said, level healthcare for example. Immigrants, or level of operation, especially with private in- porarily employed and make up the majority “The unlimited influx [of foreign workers] more accurately, foreign works have also been vestment. People would have had to apply for of foreign residents in the country, in order to endangers the wages of a large group of the frequent victims of infraction to their worker’s permits from authorities to build a roof over pad the weight of his argument, Magnússon working class, even if it does little to threaten rights and legally binding contracts for mini- their head.” also makes the erroneous assumption that the the educated experts who often control the mum wages. The Liberal Party’s tactic of pla- With the inflation level in Iceland hovering need for such a migrant work force will conti- discourse in Iceland.” cing the responsibility of these infractions on above eight percent in recent months, further nue to increase at the same rate for the next The Liberal Party’s position was met with the shoulder of the workers is obviously er- increase in wage drift would surely have pu- decade. mixed reactions. While other parties were roneous and misleading, and the party mem- shed inflation marks higher. That exact deve- As faulty as his logic is, there is a good re- quick to condemn the party for their position bers have been curiously reluctant to discuss lopment took place in the late 90’s when de- ason to discuss the “system’s” preparedness and the general public felt insulted by their unemployment numbers along with the num- mand for workers far exceeded supply and as to deal with the recent influx of immigrants, blatant use of propaganda, Icelandic media ber of foreign workers in the country. a result, inflation soared. Back then there was particularly how we assist them in their as- jumped at the chance to stir the controversy no tradition for bringing in foreign workers to similation to Iceland. Magnússon however is and misguided Icelandic nationalists soon The Truth About Foreign Work Force alleviate tension in the labour market. calling for a stricter immigration policy and found themselves filling out entry forms to According to numbers from the Icelandic La- “Looking ahead, you might even say that shuns all attempts to critically discuss an im- the Party, with a recent poll showing a sub- bour Union and the Directorate of Employ- the addition of foreign workers is protecting portant issue, revealing his true motives when stantial increase in its support. ment, the employment situation in Iceland is Icelandic jobs. It is obvious that if you have a he goes on to say, “If I was an out-of-work exceptionally good. Current unemployment workplace that needs 100 people to run as Pole, I would not think twice before moving Meeting the Demand in Iceland is one percent, which means there an efficient unit, and you can only supply it to Iceland. Nobody should understand my The emergence of a semi-nationalistic anti- is virtually no unemployment, but rather an with 70 people, you only have two options, words so that I have anything against Poles or immigration party in Icelandic politics should excessive demand for work force. According either you fold the operation or you move the other Christians from our part of the world.” perhaps not come as a surprise. As recently as to statistics from the Directorate of Employ- operation to another country,” Árnason con- That is, although Magnússon has con- last spring, former MP Ásgeir Hannes Eiríks- ment and the Directorate of Immigration, tinues. In either case, that is 70 Icelandic jobs cerns over immigration, there are certain im- son commissioned IMG Gallup to conduct a the number of foreigners who have sought lost, instead of the 30 created for foreigners, migrants that are more desirable than others. poll on his behalf, gauging the attitude of Icel- residence permits in Iceland this year totals who do, after all, pay their taxes in Iceland. He goes on to especially mention his fondness anders towards a party with an anti-immigra- 10,000, bringing the total foreign work force Árnason also brings up the subject of fo- for people from Denmark, Sweden and Nor- tion / nationalistic platform. According to the in Iceland to an expected 15,000. The Icelan- reign temporary contractor agencies. These way (why he simply didn’t use the term “of poll, one-third of Icelanders said they would dic Labour Union maintains that the increase agencies, located in countries like Poland or Aryan descent” is beyond me), while especi- consider voting for such a party. For a political is due to heavy demand for work force stem- Lithuania for example, were used extensively ally sorting out the more undesirable ones, “I party on the verge of elimination, that is a lot ming from the build up of heavy industry in by Icelandic building contractors to supply don’t want to bring in people from the bro- of potential votes. Eastern Iceland. workers on salaries far below the Icelandic therhood of Muhammad who have their own In a conversation with the Grapevine, Úl- In an interview with the Grapevine, Guð- minimum wage, only legally, for the workers laws and don’t respect minimum rights and far Hauksson, Assistant Professor of Political mundur Hilmarsson from the Icelandic Labour were employed by the agency, not the buil- offend women.” Science at the University of Iceland said, “The Union said, “The foreign work force has not ding contractor, “One positive thing to come Liberal Party is clearly moving in the direction been taking any employment away from Icel- out of the change that was made March 1 is Circling the Wagons of the Danish People’s Party (Folkepartiet). anders. They have been asked to come here that companies are now able to hire employ- As easy as it would have been for all con- They are appealing to people’s nationalistic to meet the added demand for work force ees directly instead of going through foreign cerned – leaders of the Liberal Party included, tendencies and the discourse is similar, war- in the country. I cannot understand this dis- temporary contractor agencies, which are a lot to dismiss Magnússon’s diatribe as the ram- nings about how “these people will change cussion by the Liberals. It is totally based on more difficult to supervise. Magnús Hafsteins- blings of one disgruntled member, the party’s our society.” This is a very typical reaction for false presumptions and does nothing but fuel son ought to know better. The adaptation pe- vice chairman, Magnús Þór Hafsteinsson ap- a political party that is on the defensive. The animosity against foreigners. It is completely riod that we were offered and decided to use peared on the TV talk show Silfur Egils, where party has based their campaigns on one is- impossible to blame foreign workers for being from 2004-2006 did not extend to the free The only guide that tells you the talk of the swimming pools, how to he voiced his support for the views expressed sue in the past and it is not enough anymore. offered lower wages. It is against the law to flow of service companies, like the temporary in Magnússon’s article. Soon enough, other They were likely to be wiped out in the next offer wages under the minimum wage bar- contractor agencies, within the EU. This is so- find the best cafes, how to recover from all night parties, an A to Z of leading proponents of the party, including the election, so they grab this issue to attract vo- rier, and if that is being done, then that is a mething the Liberal Party conveniently forgets Chairman Guðjón Arnar Kristjánsson and the ters when polls show that up to 30 percent of criminal act by the employer, not the employ- to mention.” Icelandic music and what "Viltu kaffi?" can really mean. party’s MP Sigurjón Þórðarson, circled the wa- Icelandic voters would consider supporting a ee. People who are coming in from Poland But perhaps, all this is over-explains a rather gons and defended Magnússon and his calls party with an anti-immigration platform.” or China have no good way of knowing their simple issue. The Labour Union’s Guðmundur for stricter immigration policy, lending him The theory that the Liberal Party is rea- rights or what the minimum wage is, and Hilmarsson thinks we might be well-served credence as a party spokesman on the issue. ching for the immigration issue in order to get even if they are being offered something that by looking closer to home. “I think when we In an attempt to play damage control for the disgruntled vote is given added weight is beyond minimum wage in Iceland, it may are discussing these issues, we should keep in Travel Guides Can Be Honest. Really the racial innuendos appearing in Magnús- by the words of Vice-Party Chairman, Mag- still be a good wage compared to their home mind how Icelanders have in large numbers son’s column, the Liberal Party has focused nús Þór Hafsteinsson, who went on record in country.” sought work in other Nordic countries, such their fight for stricter immigration policies by this year’s April 23 edition of the newspaper Úlfar Hauksson agrees, “If you look at dif- as Sweden, every time unemployment increa- trying to focus the discussion on two different daily Fréttablaðið in reply to the question of ferent groups of immigrants, you will see that ses and the economy has been slow here. We topics. whether immigrants were causing problems people come to Iceland for different reasons regard this as basic survival instinct on our be- Available at your nearest bookstore 1) The decision the Icelandic government in Iceland, “I don’t see any problem here. Fo- than to the other Nordic countries. The ma- half, but when a Pole decides to do the same made in 2006 regarding the EU’s regulations reigners do well here and have brought a lot jority of the immigrants in the rest of Scandi- then suddenly it is something completely dif- of free flow of workforce between member of good things to Icelandic society. I see no navia are seeking refuge from poverty or war ferent. They are doing this out of the same states (and the EEA countries, such as Iceland) need to create a special platform regarding and in many cases they go straight to the so- basic survival instinct as we are.” after the enlargement of the EU in 2004, al- foreign citizens,” Hafsteinsson said. cial welfare system and do not enter the em- Christmas products Various products available 20_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_FESTIVITIES RVK_GV_18_2006_FESTIVITIES_21

at sea as opposed to on mountains), The skate has at this point been rot- and there are as many as 80 record- ting by itself at room temperature ed names for them. Jón Árnason, for about three weeks, giving it a Iceland’s answer to the Brothers harsh and cleansing taste. By most Grimm, published their names in accounts, cooking skate will really his widely read folklore collection in stink up a house, although many 1862 and thus contributed to a still profess a great love for the dish and Konfektbúðin remaining consensus that there are its accompanying tallow, cooked Kringlan Shopping Mall tel: 568-9966 exactly 13 active Jólasveinar. rye bread and whole milk. Certainly The Jólasveinar have come a an acquired taste, but one that’s long way since their salad days of well worth exploring. terrifying young kids. As the cen- There aren’t many specifically turies passed, they seem to have Icelandic Christmas-style drinks to taken a shine to the little ones and speak of. The Scandinavian custom sometime around 1960 they found of gathering to drink the so-called a purpose in leaving small gifts in Jólaglögg (Christmas-drops) in the kids’ shoes left on window sills (al- weekends leading up to Christmas German quality chocolates German chocolate balls Belgian Galler chocolate roses Belgian chocolates with liqueur though there are reports of this be- is often practiced, although its haviour as early as 1930). The first popularity has waned somewhat one, Stekkjarstaur (Gully Oaf) comes in recent years. Jólaglögg is a sickly to town on the eve of December 12. sweet sort of drink that’s usually They keep on coming leading up to made by heating red wine spiced , when the infamous with cinnamon, ginger, raisins and Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar – he lemon peel – and some will add usually leaves the greatest presents spirits for added bite. behind) makes his arrival. Some in- Alcohol consumption around teresting ones that show up in the Christmas itself is less popular than interim include Þvörusleikir (Spoon- one would assume from Icelanders’ licker), Hurðaskellir (Door-slammer) usual drinking habits – folks would and Gluggagægir (Peeping Tom). rather stay warm with a cup of The gifts they leave behind range hot chocolate or a combination of from small toys and Christmas alcohol-free Malt ale (Maltöl) and decorations to books and CDs (that Icelandic orange soda (Appelsín). would be Kertasníkir), but if a child Combined, the two drinks form has behaved foully, he can count on what’s commonly referred to as getting a potato in lieu of the com- Jólaöl (Christmas ale). The blending mon pleasantries. of the two has been common prac- As mentioned earlier, the Jólas- tice in Iceland since around 1960 veinar are descended from common and most families have their own trolls, and in fact they come from a special ways of determining the pretty horrid family. Their mother is correct proportions between them the most infamous Icelandic troll of (some even go as far as adding cola all – the deadly Grýla. She is mainly to the mix). known for taking great pleasure in devouring naughty children, some- (Nothing to Fear But) times cooked but often raw, and Christmas Itself it is believed that her sons’ origi- The first thing you should know nal purpose was to bring her fresh about the actual celebrating of meat when the hunger struck. Not Christmas in Iceland is that it culmi- as devious but still pretty mean is nates on December 24 rather than How to Conduct Your Icelandic Christmas Grýla’s husband, Leppalúði, who the 25th, which is the common partakes in all the nastiness but is a Western date to celebrate the birth more passive figure. of Christ. This is in keeping with the Text by Haukur Magnússon Photo by Reykjavík Museum of Photography However, the most vicious original Christian chronology, taken and weird family member is in all up from Judaism, which deems that likelihood the deceivingly named a new day starts at sunset, or six Even though most western nations are by Calling All Shoppers! of the Christmas-celebrating world: pine the businessman was importing boatloads Jólaköttur (Christmas Cat). This p.m. outside of the original Jew- all accounts becoming more mind-numb- Consumerism is just as rampant in Iceland as branches, light sets, Santa-related effigies of the decorative lights, as no respectable feline is said to be of gargantuan ish areas. Thus it is deemed that ingly culturally uniform by the minute, there the rest of the world. Thus it should come as and various knick-knacks and doodads are Icelandic home could bear to be without proportions (for a cat), and he has Christmas day starts at six p.m. in are still some vast regional differences as to no surprise that each year, the first signs of common in Icelandic households during the them. the sole purpose of eating disad- Iceland, signalled in by National Ra- how we go about living our lives and the the impending holidays stem from Iceland’s month of December. A four-candle Advent vantaged children. Not necessar- dio’s broadcasting of church bells. various customs and traditions that entails. shopping malls and advertising agencies; as wreath, with one candle to be lit on each A Pretty Horrible Family ily naughty ones, something that This is followed by a traditionally Take Christmas for instance. Most Christian early as October one may witness Santa or Advent Sunday to mark its passing, may Iceland has some strange and violent folk- would, in a way, be understandable; extravagant Christmas meal, often countries (and some non-Christian ones one of his minions run amok in the media, be found in most homes, as may so-called lore connected to the month of Advent, and rather, the Christmas Cat chooses comprised of smoked pork or wild as well) have their own special version of reminding shoppers that the Christmas sea- Christmas-calendars, boxes of chocolates to Christmas in particular, although later years to feast on kids who fail to get a game such as ptarmigan or rein- the festivities that December brings, even son has indeed arrived and it is time to stock be dispensed every day leading up to De- have seen some of its harsher tales consider- new clothes for Christmas. Luckily, deer. Large families like to gather though themes of celebration, charity, love up on gifts and pleasantries. Soon after, the cember 24. ably revised and edited to make them more Iceland’s trusty welfare system has for this occasion and there will of- towards mankind and consumerism are larger stores will start decorating in a Christ- A decorative object somewhat unique to “child-friendly”. As with most Western na- ensured that he rarely finds motive ten be as many as 20 people eating widespread. Iceland is no different in this re- massy sort of style, giving nods to the festivi- Iceland, although the phenomenon may be tions, Christmas in Iceland involves several to visit these days. at the same table. Many families spect and has many Christmas customs and ties with the use of Christmas trees, blinking found in some Nordic countries, is the so- mythical creatures dating back to the middle will conclude the meal by eating a ceremonies you will not find anywhere else. light sets and inflatable Santas. called Advent light, a seven-armed electric ages, but what may set ours apart is their Devouring Christmas Christmas porridge in which an al- The following is an attempt to give outsiders bleak nature and often-scary undertones. Food plays a large part in Icelandic mond has been hidden – whoever some insight into how the average Icelander In folk tales, Christmas Eve is a dangerous Christmas festivities and there are gets the almond wins a fun prize. will experience and celebrate the holidays in night that should be approached with ex- several local culinary traditions to Leading up to this is an always-un- light of traditional folklore and long standing “In folk tales, Christmas Eve is a dangerous night treme caution. It is the time when every be honoured over the holidays. The bearable wait, at least if you’re a customs, as well as some new ones. that should be approached with extreme caution.” supernatural creature in Iceland’s collective fun starts in early December, when kid. While parents spend the day The presents themselves and the various consciousness comes out to play, often lur- families congregate to bake several putting last-minute touches on dec- traditions surrounding them (such as the me- ing innocent peasants into their dens, killing types of Christmas-cookies to be orations, preparing the meals and dian price-range) vary between households, them or trapping them forever. For instance, eaten over the course of the coming wrapping up presents, children will although there are some constants. Books, elves will tempt with their riches and beauty, month. An average household will watch some of the local TV stations expensive as they may be in Iceland, have for However, most of the shopping occurs in candlestick found in at least one window trapping whoever falls for their shtick into an usually produce around three to ten all-day broadcasts of Christmas- long ranked as the most popular gift-items; the month of December itself, culminating at of almost every Icelandic house throughout eternity of living inside rocks, or worse. And different sorts of cookies, although themed cartoons. Many will suffer the publishing industry and book stores December 23 – known here as Þorláksmes- the holiday season. It is reportedly quite those who dare play cards or games of any later years have seen an increase uncontrollable sugar-induced tem- virtually revolve around the holiday season sa – when the stores stay open ‘til late and common for those who visit Reykjavík in nature on Christmas Eve may expect horrible in the circulation of store-bought per tantrums throughout the day. – the months leading up to it see the major- midtown Reykjavík along with the shopping December to get in touch with the National things to come their way – a famous folk tale ones. More productive households What they are looking forward ity of the year’s releases being published and malls experience their most crowded day of Museum and inquire about the objects, and speaks of a Church that was engulfed into will also bake and freeze layer cakes to is of course the much-coveted bought. Of course, condensing the book the year. The large mass of people that con- as to whether Judaism is widespread in the the earth by Satan himself after its patrons and raisin-laced Christmas cakes. opening of presents, an activity market and literary discussion this way has gregate downtown to do some last minute country. partook in a midnight game of cards. From the northern parts of Ice- that reigns supreme over the rest of some strange effects on Icelandic literary shopping and drink cups of cocoa is truly a The story behind the Advent lights’ pop- And then there are the gift-bringers: the land comes the December tradition the evening. A family member will culture, as is discussed elsewhere in this is- sight to behold and is to some one of the ularity in Iceland is surprisingly mundane Jólasveinar (or Yuletide Lads), a motley group of baking Laufabrauð (Leaf-bread), often take the task upon himself of sue. season’s high points. and in most cases it is thought of as any of bogeymen descended from trolls. Origi- a very thin, deep-fried sort of bread fetching the presents from under The Icelandic music industry faced similar other decoration, even though the seven- nally used to scare children into submission, that has decorations carved in it and the Christmas tree and distributing concerns a while back, with the majority of Deck the Halls armed candlestick is laden with symbolism it is only in later years that they have warmed goes tremendously well with but- them according to their tags. This each respective year’s releases and purchases Icelanders usually commence giving their elsewhere. The story goes that a certain to the task of bringing them presents instead ter. Another regional delicacy that can go on for hours in large fami- being made during its last quarter. Lately the homes the holiday treatment in late No- Reykjavík businessman encountered the ob- of harassing their families with pranks and has in later years spread throughout lies, and it’s usually not until well af- sales have become more constant, however, vember/early December, with the start of ject on a standard shopping trip to Sweden misdemeanours. Little is known of the Jólas- Iceland is the annual devouring of ter midnight that people make their although the gift of music is still a popular Advent (which occurs the fourth Sunday sometime in the mid-sixties. He thought veinars’ origins, but they do get mentioned kæst skata (rotten skate) on Þor- way to bed, often reading newly one. Beside cultural products, other popular before Christmas) usually marking the of- they’d make excellent gifts to his aunts back in writing as early as the 17th century. Their láksmessa (December 23). Originat- acquired books well into the small gift items include decorative objects, board ficial ‘OK time’ for decorating. Decorations home and bought several for that purpose. number and habits varied from region to re- ing in the West Fjords, the skate- hours of Christmas Day. games, electronic equipment and the like. are similar to what may be found in the rest Word of mouth popularity ensued, and soon gion (the East Fjords even had some that lived feast generally takes place at noon. 22_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_REVIEW/MUSIC/LIVE REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_REVIEW/MUSIC/LIVE_23

Stevens’s instrumental talents were no a keyboard to the side. Their calm demean- secret, but seeing him switch between the our stood in stark contrast to the bantering piano, guitar, banjo and occasional cow bell, and spastic twitches of singer Einar Örn, who was amazing, as was the supporting brass at times conjured images of the Mad Hatter section and aforementioned St. Vincent, as he joked around with the band’s other vo- who had re-entered the stage, now wearing calist, Björk, and danced around with a red butterfly wings, playing the guitar, some- trumpet. times the piano and singing back-up vocals As much as everyone tried to ignore it, on a couple of the songs. the star of the show was still Björk Guð- Although the songs were all familiar to mundsdóttir. Her command over her in- the audience and the set mostly consisted strument is quite amazing, and it is hard of tracks from the Seven Swans and to imagine the Sugarcubes having reached Illinois (the second piece in the 50 States their level of success without her unique vo- puzzle), the compositions were so much cal lines. Although her mates onstage were more imposing and sensational than on the all accomplished, seasoned musical veterans albums, as Seven Swans, Sister and two of – (with the exception of bass player/writer my favourites, To Be Alone With You and The Bragi Ólafsson, who had earlier told me that Man of Metropolis Steals Our Hearts, bore even if he had not played bass in years, his witness to. In keeping with the evening and lines were simple and really, it was just like the season, Stevens also played a Christmas driving a car, you don’t forget) – she is the song, That Was the Worst Christmas Ever! only international star, able to attract audi- from his Songs for Christmas album. ences from afar. Which she did. It would be impossible to talk about the On location that night were over 1,000 show without mentioning Stevens’ lyrics and foreigners who flew in exclusively to watch stories. His narrative skills were also displayed the night’s show. You wonder how many as he delivered historical facts and stories would have shown up if Björk had not been about notable people, mixed with religious present. She fell seamlessly in line with the views and weird jokes in songs with ridicu- band, and at times she looked so at home lously long titles that stressed his strong feel- on that stage, you could almost forget that ings towards fellow countrymen and com- they had disbanded and she had moved on plex emotions and childhood memories. to bigger and better things. His performance of A Good Man Is Hard More than anything, it was drummer To Find, based on a short story about a serial who caught my atten- killer written by American novelist Flannery tion. Even if this talented drummer has been O’Connor, who he paid tribute to before involved with various projects recently, wit- playing the song, was received with boom- nessing him in his element that night, truly ing applause. Another breathtaking per- made it clear how much fun it is to watch formance was his rendition of John Wayne him play. His constant smile and jovial spirit Gacy, Jr (also about a serial killer). As sad as also underscored another detail that was lost An Appreciated Invasion of Flying Stars this story of the serial killer from Chicago Sugarcubes Reconnect and Eventually Triumph on no one that night; just how much fun dressed in a clown suit is, when he delivered these people were having, sharing a stage lines like: “His father was a drinker/and his again for the first time since 1992. and Inflated Santas mother cried in bed” with his delicate voice Text by Sveinn Birkir Björnsson Photo by Skari After they had performed 18 songs, the Stevens almost made you feel sympathy for Sugarcubes finally retreated under the fever- the man. ish salute of the crowd. After a few minutes Text by Steinunn Jakobsdóttir Photo by Skari After an almost two-hour show and secured the Sugarcubes an almost mythical nected patrons, 15 years after their prime. of the stomping, clapping and yelling, they several spine-chilling moments, Stevens and Who: The Sugarcubes status in Iceland’s musical history. The Sugar- This feeling was not lost on the band either returned to perform an encore, including his winged friends said goodnight, only to Where: Laugardalshöll cubes decided to use this opportunity cash as they strained to find their comfort level their most successful single, Hit, off the 1992 show. an obvious reference to the fracas over the return to the stage after a lengthy applause When: November 17, 2006 in on this fact in order to bankroll further op- and create a connection with the audience . After the band left the Who: Sufjan Stevens St. Vincent, a moniker of the multi-talented original cover of Illinois album, which sports and outcries from the crowd. “I can’t believe eration of their own record label, , in the large stadium. It was not altogether stage for the second time, the crowd was still Where: Fríkirkjan Church singer and songwriter Annie Clark, blew Superman. Only a few albums exist with the he’s not gonna play Chicago,” the guy sitting Some artists are only discovered posthu- founded the same day as the band and still pleasant to witness and for a moment I hungry for more and brought them out for When: November 18, 2006 everyone away with her first tune. She has original cover. Stupid copyright laws. next to me had said to his friend when Ste- mously. So it seems to have been with the a productive and daring label, despite the feared that the Sugarcubes reunion would yet another encore. been supporting Stevens during his Euro- Sufjan Stevens is not only a unique musi- vens didn’t seem to be coming back again. Sugarcubes who returned to perform a con- band’s demise. Although I am not a big fan prove to be as disastrous as Michael Jordan’s For the final act, the ‘Cubes brought out Detroit native Sufjan Stevens has built quite pean tour, deservedly earning attention for cian, a brilliant writer and composer but also But the audience didn’t crack, and kept on cert last Friday in celebration of the 20th an- of bands reuniting in order to cash in on for- second comeback. a special guest in none other than Johnny a fan base in Iceland, so it was not surprising her solo project. Her dynamic voice, heartfelt a creative performer. It was soon evident clapping and stomping until now humble niversary of their first single, Birthday, despite mer fame, the Sugarcubes lapse was easily Nevertheless, the night was kicked into Triumph, the only man alive who could justi- that his two shows last month sold out in performance, complex melodies and unusual that the props on the piano had a purpose and almost watery-eyed Stevens returned, the band announcing its death in 1992. forgiven in light of their altruistic reasoning. gear with the rock solid delivery of Regina fiably demote Björk to a back-up singer. Join- a matter of minutes and more dates would instrumentation, like stomping her foot to when Stevens and the Band of Butterflies en- alone, taking his good time thanking the At a press conference two days before While much of the older audience that and Cold Sweat, both early highlights. From ing him onstage were two young teens, Ein- surely have been appreciated. Those lucky the ground to create an intense drum sound tered one after another, wearing feathered guests for the warm welcome, before kick- the concert, with nearly 5,000 tickets sold in night was there for the rare second chance to that point on, crowd and band were in uni- ar Örn’s and Þór’s and Margrét’s sons, who devotees who got a ticket in time flocked while playing the guitar, got every single soul masks and butterfly wings. Stevens himself ing off with Chicago. For the last two songs, advance, the Sugarcubes’ bass player, Bragi fulfil something that perhaps they ought to son, equally at home with one another as joined the family in performing Luftguitar, a with anticipation to Fríkirkjan Church to see in the audience gazing at the stage, almost had eagle wings tied to his back and told the the whole band came back for support with Ólafsson told me: “This is very new to us. We have done circa 1989, many of the younger the band blazed through their hit singles one collaboration project from Johnny Triumph’s his European tour climaxing in Reykjavík in a forgetting that there was more to come. crowd he was the chief eagle in the majesty the concert culminating in Concerning The are not exactly used to be playing in front audience was barely old enough to remem- by one. Other notable highlights were Deus, own album. Even if Triumph’s return was a god-like manner. (Check out her MySpace page for songs snowbird tour where the theme was flying UFO Sighting Near Highland, Illinois. of large crowds here in Iceland. We are used ber the times when the Sugarcubes were still Motorcrash, and the obvious Birthday. It was welcome sight for many Icelanders, I have a Fríkirkjan Church, usually holding ap- Marry Me and Paris is Burning, in particular.) objects. When the Supermen and Santa Everything clicked perfectly. Stevens and to playing small clubs.” The sentiment was a band. Overall, attendees were not so much pleasant to hear how well their songs have feeling the joke may have been lost on the proximately 500 people, was overfilled when After her set, I wasn’t only excited about the Clauses started bouncing like colourful mari- his Butterfly band were more energetic, pas- echoed by Sugarcubes front man, Einar Örn nostalgic as they were curious to see the re- withstood the test of time. The gist of songs majority of the foreign guests, as his album opening act St. Vincent, started her set. With following act but equally thrilled by the fact onettes inside Fríkirkjan after Stevens threw sionate, magical even, than I had dared to Benediktsson, when I asked him if he was turn of the now legendary and much-hyped sounds just as fresh today as they did when was never released outside Iceland. every seat on the church benches taken, I had now discovered another genius. That them in the crowd I understood what he hope for, leaving the audience in a daze. Tak- surprised that the show had not already sold Sugarcubes. they first came out. As Triumph brought the night to an end some late arrivals had to settle for a place on was just a bonus. meant. ing their time thanking the band for its stag- out. “Not so much, we were never really a Despite the anticipation filling the stadi- Despite the long lay-off, there was little by smashing his invisible Luftguitar against the floor. That didn’t diminish the cosy feel The instrument-packed stage indicated After introducing his band as the Magi- gering performance that night, the crowd success in Iceland.” um, the show got off to a rather slow start as rust to be found in their performance. Band the amplifiers and eventually tossing it into inside the church that night, where candles that Stevens’s supporting band included cal Butterfly Brigade and he himself the slowly scattered away, some carrying an in- Despite a meagre following in Iceland the band opened with the song Traitor, the members resumed their duties without ef- the audience, the night was brought to a lit up the stage and Jesus hovered above it. quite a few members. The inflated Santa Majesty Songbird, the whole crew, consist- flated Santa under their arm, a memorable during their heyday, the combination of their first song from their first album. In the early fort and quickly fell into their roles. More or memorable pinnacle and ultimately, a close. Every bit of decoration was in total harmony Clauses lying on top of the piano gave no ing of a brass band, drummer and a string souvenir of a concert no one in the church well-documented and somewhat aberrant moments of the show I could not escape the less motionless in the background stood gui- with Stevens’ music, underlining how per- indication at all. Also mysteriously lying on set, started off with the theme song Majesty would forget about in the near future. quirkiness, their timeless songwriting, and feeling of the band being out of place and tarist Þór Eldon and bassist Bragi Ólafsson, fect a small-scale venue was for this kind of a the piano were severeal inflated Supermen, Snowbird. the fact that they are Björk’s former band has time, playing in front of 5,000-plus discon- with Margrét Örnólfsdóttir standing behind

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Travel Agency Borgartúni 29 | 105 Reykjavík | Iceland | www.exit.is | +354 562 2362 Authorised by Icelandic Tourist Board 24_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_REVIEWS/MUSIC/CDS

Bríet Sunna Biggi Benni Hemm Hemm Bara ef þú kemur með id Kajak

Sena, the biggest record label on the market, seems to have Maus were a popular, great and influential indie band back Benni Hemm Hemm has been named Golden Boy of Icelan- an endless supply of former Icelandic Idol contestants to in the late 1990s. Frontman and singer Biggi was charis- dic pop in this publication. Judging by his self-titled debut, put in front of a microphone, covering old songs like Always matic in a weird way, sometimes out of tune and not really released last year, the title isn’t far off, winning two awards on My Mind, all yielding the same results. For the most cut out to be a singer. He even acknowledged this in a great at last year’s Icelandic Music Awards. The music sounds part these are pretty girls who can hold a tune somewhat Maus song, Maðurinn með Stálröddina (The man with the something like indie big-band pop, with trumpets, acoustic decently. Bríet Sunna delivers for her part, singing pretty steel voice). His singing worked with Maus, backed by the guitar and horns playing a big part, at times reminiscent when told to, but devoid of feeling or emotion. The hired traditional guitar, bass and drums. This solo album is much of the ever-influential Belle and Sebastian. Benni is a good session players trudge through the songs and surely earn more low key than rock’n’roll and this is not good for Biggi. songwriter, the melodies are interesting but the album suf- All back issues available online the money the record label paid them. This sounds like ka- The songs could have made up for this but they are unorigi- fers from Benni’s singing, which really isn’t strong enough. raoke and that is what it is. Better than your average drunk- nal electro-pop, never catching your attention. The compo- I struggle to imagine a time when I would put this CD on, on-a-Saturday night karaoke, but still karaoke. Some of the sitions still sound like they could have been made into some maybe as a prelude to some heavy drinking and dancing 1400 articles, listings and daily news from Iceland Icelandic lyrics are so embarrassingly bad that they almost good Maus songs. The production is good and the booklet with some party people of the cute generation – it sounds justify buying the album for a short laugh but, probably, it is not hideously ugly. Included are liner notes instead of lyr- as if it would be a lot of fun to see performed live – but isn’t will just depress you in the end. Stay clear of this. ics, which feel awkward at times. This album is not excellent really suited for the home stereo. Benni proves that he’s a or original, just mediocre, which is a letdown coming from talented songwriter and the band performs well. It’s simply Biggi. I expected more. not the follow-up I was anticipating.

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Magga Stína Jóhann Jóhannsson The Foghorns syngur Megas IBM 1401, A User’s Manual New Low

Megas, a cultural icon around these parts, sure seems An album inspired by recordings of electromagnetic waves The Foghorns have been pretty active in the music scene popular this year. Two albums have surfaced where artists emitting from an obsolete computer the size of a large the past couple of years, playing numerous shows but never try to put their mark on his songs and lyrics. Magga Stína, a refrigerator. Sounds fun? Not really but this actually is a drawing a big crowd. The brainchild of former Grapevine talented and sometimes quirky musician, backed by some of highly enjoyable CD. Originally composed for a string quar- editor, Bart Cameron, this release was partly recorded live the best musicians in the country, offers 11 songs by Megas tet as the soundtrack to a dance piece, this is eerie and in Reykjavík and partly in some (I imagine) seedy locations on this album, three of which are new. It’s hard to make an haunting symphonic stuff with sounds from the computer in Brooklyn and Wisconsin. The sound is rough and lo-fi but old song your own, especially songs by such a unique artist sampled. Each of the five tracks slowly builds up to a peak perfectly fitting the Bruce Springsteen folk-punk rock (think as Megas. Magga Stína succeeds on some tracks, especially with strings and weird sounds – after all this is built on Nebraska, not Born To Run). Lyrically it’s an album of sor- Fílahirðirinn frá Súrín, which is the greatest Icelandic love electromagnetic sounds. The computer plays a big part and row, sadness and longing – the bitterness shines through. It song of all time and her version hits the target perfectly. its various accessories like the IBM 1403 printer or the IBM sounds honest and raw with a feeling of intensity; as if the Although she doesn’t manage to make you forget Megas’s 1402 Card Read-Punch. The album is big and powerful and band has a point to make and really, really wants the listen- originals she provides a pleasing album and by far the best cinematic. It has a remorseful sound, somehow sounding er to get it; as if they care about their work, getting the mu- cover album of his songs the world has seen. like a eulogy or an homage to an obsolete machine. A great sic out just to get it out and not because they think it will and beautiful piece of modern composition. make them lots of money. It won’t. So throw all the money you can spare at them because this is a fucking great CD.

All reviews by Páll Hilmarsson

Energy for life through forces of nature

www.bluelagoon.com 26_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_FICTION REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_INTERVIEW/RELIGION_27

sort of way that we should not back away from everything, ie. no dams, no fishing, and so on, because if you live in nature with- out ever touching nature you also upset the balance. Thirty years ago when you talked about Paganism as an ecological religion, it was OK because ecology was not in fashion. But it sounds corny when you say it today because it looks like you are trying to cash in on the ecology trend. There is a good paral- lel that we are acting ourselves into a corner where we are so dependent on electricity and oil and new technology. Science will tell you that it doesn´t matter because there will be a new science that will solve all the prob- lems of the old one. This is basically the same as what the prophesy of the Sibil in Völuspá states, except that there will be a crash, a col- lapse before you can go on. Do you think Iceland will bear any ill consequences of its actions? The Ambassador An excerpt If you go against nature, nature will revenge. And you have to explain the word revenge, or hefna in Icelandic, it means simply to even By Bragi Ólafsson Translated by Victoria Cribb things. If you upset the balance, nature will even things out, there will in other words be a new balance. Just like the Mother of the Brief synopsis “I’m in the visual arts line myself,” the assistant chipped where he knew the coffee was supposed to spurt out and hunting animals, you go too far and you will Icelandic poet Sturla Jon Jonsson attends an international in, making it sound as if he didn’t want the news to get out. fumbled at the machine until the salesman came to his pay the price when nature evens it out. poetry festival in Lithuania - but this is no ordinary poetry trip. Sturla repeated his question. rescue by pressing a small button, the same colour as the As “Goði,” what does your role as a spir- As the poetic ambassador of his country, Sturla Jon shrugs “None of the suits were modish enough for him,” machine, marked with the picture of a coffee cup. While the itual and ceremonial leader entail? off his official duties, deciding to become the ambassador to answered the assistant with a smile. “He couldn’t find any coffee was brewing, Sturla took out his wallet and counted I am licensed to perform marriages, and we his own feelings instead. with dried mustard on the lapels.” out thirteen five-thousand kronur notes. have funeral services also. They are all based In Vilnius he meets a female white-Russian poet by the For a moment Sturla reflected how unusual it was to “We don’t often see that much cash,” said the man, on old ceremonies. This would probably not name of Liliya Boguinskaia, who introduces him to the not- hear a man as young as the one in front of him use the word and Sturla answered by asking if there was a discount for a be a very scientific way of doing it, but when so-poetic aspects of reality. modish. down payment. I prepare a ceremony, I go to old law books, “He had a crusty old stain on the jacket he was wearing,” “Not if you pay in cash. But there’s a five per cent to the sagas, to all sorts of old traditions Part one, Reykjavík, Bankastræti continued the latter, and when he added that the man had discount if you pay by plastic.” The assistant took the notes which often preserve a great deal of ancient It was made of particularly hard-wearing material, one an Adolf Hitler moustache and was wearing a yellow shirt, from Sturla’s hand, laying the coat on the table beside the knowledge. I simply go to my subconscious, hundred per cent cotton, which gave the impression, when though one couldn’t immediately tell whether the colour was coffee cups. He licked his thumb several times while counting to the things that my grandmothers and touched, of being waxed. And as for the seams – they were original or had been acquired over time, Sturla thought it the notes, and was forced to start over when his attention great-grandmothers told me. I am sure I have guaranteed for life. Because the finish was similar to that had probably been N. Pietur, the artist and improvisational was suddenly distracted by Sturla taking off his anorak and forgotten most of it but it is there. I know of some book jackets, like lamination – “you would know composer, an old friend of his father’s, and he wondered smoothing out the coat in order to slip it on. He put the that I have succeeded in this because people all about that, as a poet” – it was resistant to all moisture, if it was appropriate for an assistant in a shop such as this notes away in the cash register and smilingly watched the say “this is a beautiful ceremony” and so on, which made it ideal for the climate of this country, or to gossip about other customers. When the assistant added new customer’s clumsy attempts to struggle into the coat. but they also say “it is so Icelandic.” whatever country you cared to name; after all, even when that of course it wasn’t just anyone who bought “expensive, Then he handed Sturla a bag branded with the shop’s name How does one become a Pagan? Is there the day greeted you with cloudless skies, you could never quality apparel like this”, as he put it – meaning the apparel in which to place his anorak – a bag so beautifully produced a so-called “sacred” text? be sure that by the time it had ended dust would be the stocked by the shop – Sturla felt convinced that if anyone that Sturla was momentarily afraid he would have to pay for The sacred text would be the Eddic poems, only thing to have fallen on you. The colour, too, was one had the right to express an opinion to complete strangers it; it was a rich brown colour, made of thick, waxed paper, but Snorri´s Edda is the key to understand- of its main advantages; it never demanded attention as a about the delicate process involved in the relations between with a finish not unlike that of the coat and a handle of ing them. If we didn´t have Snorri´s Edda, we colour, but drew it anyway in the form of silent admiration, the one who is offering the goods and the one who is faced orange cord. wouldn´t know anything about the Nordic and – “though of course we shouldn’t let ourselves think with the choice of choosing or rejecting, it should be the While Sturla was his anorak into the bag, the sagas. We would be walking in the dark. It that way” – envy. The mere fact of its being made in Italy customer, not the salesman. He felt it was uncalled for of assistant was called away by a colleague; someone was is all so vague, but Snorri explains it. To be a was a form of insurance that the sum you paid for it would the young assistant to make conversation with a prospective needed to serve a young couple whom Sturla had noticed Pagan you must think of all of nature and the go straight into your own pocket, so to speak. And talking of buyer about his experience of the shop’s other customers, enter the shop, a well-known theatrical pair of whom he whole world as a balance, and everything is pockets, this nifty little inside pocket on the right did nothing even if the person in question had put him to considerable had recently heard his father’s friend, Örn Featherby, talk in very close to being stable. This is what peo- to detract from the appeal; it was especially fitted there to trouble without actually buying anything – and perhaps most rather slighting terms. It had been in connection with a play Nordic Gods Alive in Reykjavik ple, especially people living in cities, have a accommodate a mobile phone. Or a packet of cigarettes, of all for that reason. that either she, the wife, or he, the husband, had sold to one little bit of difficulty understanding: preserv- that’s to say if the owner doesn’t use a mobile phone but Yet despite his thoughtlessness, the assistant was right of the two big professional theatre companies in town. While ing too much is just as bad as destroying too belongs instead to that select group of people who still insist in saying that of course not everyone could afford to purchase Sturla was drinking his espresso he watched the couple and Text by Greg Bocquet Photo by Skari much. There is no good or evil there, the on ruining their health by smoking. Oh, and it was worth the clothing stocked by the shop, least of all the garment the assistant out of the corner of his eye; they all seemed good thing is to just have the scales be im- mentioning that in the other inside pocket, intended to hold that Sturla had his eye on. Because it was safe to say that to know one another and had immediately launched into a mobile. When people go too much on what a wallet, there was a small, dark-blue velvet bag – one of the these English coats, made in Italy, were expensive, fiendishly discussion of something that made them all laugh. Judging by Jörmundur Ingi, a real-life modern druid, is they have always been. It has been passed I have pointed out for decades, that there are they consider to be the good side, they will features that made this particular design so unique: a bag expensive. But Sturla Jón, who did not as a rule spend much the husband’s gesticulations the subject of the conversation head of the Reykjavikur Goðar, one of two down. In Reykjavik, people have been sort of no sins. The idea of sin does not exist in Pa- tip the scales just as much as if they do too made of velvet – and in this neat little bag, which you closed money on clothes for himself, had at some point many years was probably some project the couple were currently involved officially recognized Pagan associations in split off from nature, but only very recently. ganism. You will bear the consequences for much on the negative side. by pulling a yellow silk cord, there were two spare buttons ago seen a garment like this, a cross between a duster coat in. Sturla Jón glanced around, then sneaked his hand into the Iceland. In his position as Goði, he performs Almost until 1970, everyone kid in Reykjavik your actions, like karma in India. The price Does your organization have a training to use in the unlikely event that one of the original buttons and mackintosh, and permitted himself the thought that white bowl containing light-brown, cylindrical paper packets marriage and funeral services, and spreads was sent out into the country during sum- you pay for overfishing is no fish next year. center? Do you do any outreach? came off and was lost. Of course there wasn’t much risk of perhaps he should go a little against the grain and his clothes- of sugar and fished out several. He examined them in his the word of the naturalistic beliefs of an- mer vacation to work on the farm. Everyone The price you pay for overgrazing is no grass No, we are not allowed to do any mission- that happening, because, as already mentioned, the stitching buying habits, and set himself the goal of acquiring such an open palm, counted them, then slipped them into one of his cient Iceland. The Grapevine sat down with who was born before then has worked on next year. With the whaling issue, I am not ary work. It is our own rule. If you convince was guaranteed to last a lifetime. overcoat, almost regardless of cost; allowing himself for once side pockets. Jörmundur Ingi to discuss the influence of a farm, so the connection with the country even sure whether I support the decision to someone that they should change religion, It was with these words – more or less – that the to spend money on a sartorial luxury, something he knew It had begun to rain when he left the shop. Cold rain, ancient beliefs on Icelandic identity, politics, was much stronger. start commercial whaling, but in Iceland we it doesn´t hold. You may become a member sales assistant in the gentleman’s outfitters on Bankastræti would give him more pleasure to wear than any of his other one level up from sleet. Sturla buttoned up the coat and and the resurgence of the gods in Reykjavik. Why are there are two Pagan associa- feel that we have the right to decide this our- of that religion on the surface, but it doesn´t described the Aquascutum duster coat to Sturla Jón; the coat clothes that had cost not a penny more than necessary. reflected on the things the sales assistant had come out with tions in Iceland? selves. It´s ridiculous to think that the killing hold. We have spoken at schools, even kin- that Sturla had long ago set his heart on and asked to have As Sturla announced that he would take the coat, he in connection with the garment and its prospective buyer; Paganism, in many ways, is a universal There should really be 36 separate groups. of seven whales this year and 39 next year is dergartens, but we have not had seminars or reordered for him when it sold out. The assistant had no idea realised he had a smile on his face, an innocent smile that he, that is to say the buyer, Sturla Jón, did not use a mobile belief system. What makes Icelandic Pa- This was, I belive, the object of the three who going to ruin the stock of whales. I can state courses in Our Way, as Icelandic Paganism is that it was Sturla Jón who had requested the order since was of course nothing wrong in itself, but he was afraid that phone but smoked all the more for that. As if to demonstrate ganism unique? united into Ásatru Félag, which was the first categorically that there is one wrong thing properly called. We would like to, at least I Sturla hadn’t spoken to this salesman before; he seemed to other people it might look as if he were irrepressibly proud to passers-by that he was precisely the type who didn’t In Icelandic stories, you have tales of what Pagan association in Iceland, in 1972. When in the whole scheme, and that is the whal- would like to. We used to have a huge build- to be new. So it took him pleasantly by surprise – though of himself, like a child or teenager who is about to have his care to be hassled by phones ringing in the open air but happens if you disturb the Mother of the I was leading the group, I tried to organize ers that say that “the whales eat our fish, so ing here down by the harbor, but it was sold perhaps he should have expected it of a man whose job is greatest dream come true. “I’ll take it,” he said decisively, instead underlined his independence by allowing himself the salmon, or the Mother of the flounder, a this as close to the ancient organization as we have to kill them.” That is ridiculous. So after I quit. They plan to build a new one, to pay attention to people’s taste in clothes, and thus to trying to wipe the smile off his face. forbidden pleasure of smoking, he stopped on the pavement fish about ten times bigger than any whale. possible simply because I thought that noth- right there, that will make my support a little and that will start on the first of December. people themselves – that the assistant should recognise him. The assistant nodded solemnly, as if he himself had in Bankastræti after leaving the shop, drew a packet of She lets you hunt the flounder unless you ing has been invented ever since that comes shaky. Whales cannot deplete the oceans of If you are not actively seeking new mem- But of course it was conceivable that one of his colleagues come to an important decision, and said: Royale from his breast pocket, tapped out a cigarette and get greedy and take too much. Then she will close to the old Icelandic republic. This was fish, but man can because we are not living bers, how will interest in Ásatru grow? had tipped him off when Sturla came into the shop that this “Good choice.” then pushed the packet back into the little inside pocket after destroy the ship, because you have become not accepted by others in the group so we in the ocean. We are taking things out of It´s a strange thing – it is growing mostly in was Sturla Jón, the poet; maybe even adding: the one who Sturla misheard this as “Gotcha”, and stared at the lighting the cigarette – the pocket was so tight that it only to greedy. I see the beginning of the Nordic split up, also there where other issues which the ecosytem. I think that human beings not Reykjavik, where it would be, in the good published freedom from freedom. assistant in mild surprise as the man folded the garment. It just fitted. religion in shamanism. Shamans were sim- we will not get into. The ancient system was only have the right to utilize the land like any sense of the word, a nationalistic trend. It has Sturla had first spotted the coat in the shop back in made a crackling noise, not unlike thick paper, due to the ply very strong personalities who were the a mixture of a religious power and very much other living creature in the world – to graze, become organized now that there are prob- February. The weather had been rather too cold at the time stiffness of the cotton. strong leaders who knew about the sun, of people deciding, because you would have to mine, to fish, even to make dams – but ably around 900 people, at least in my old to justify purchasing an unlined duster coat, and he couldn’t “Might there be anything else?” was the assistant’s About the author the moon, the winds, the changing seasons, 36 Goðar spread over the country, and if you in reality we are obliged to. So if you don´t group. People realize that this is maybe the have afforded it then anyway. But when he thought of taking reaction to the questioning look in Sturla’s eyes. Bragi Olafsson has long been established as one of Iceland´s connected to nature. Nature was the enemy didn´t like your representative, you could sim- graze, that is also bad. You have to keep the best way for the younger people to express another look at the coat in June, when his finances were “No, thank you,” replied Sturla. greatest authors and poets. When he published his first volume of primitive people – you always needed to ply leave and attach yourself to another one. balance. It is the excessive use which is bad, that they are actually Icelandic. One reason looking up, the three or four coats that had been there in “Right you are,” said the assistant, and they went over of poetry in 1986, he struck a very particular note, which pacify nature. It was a very direct democracy. and this is when you are making decisions for that Paganism is coming up could simply be February had vanished from the rail; they had been sold. to the cash register which, unlike in most shops, was located has since evolved and deepened into that unmmistakable Where is Paganism most popular in Ice- In Icelandic politics, we see many initia- the wrong reasons, like the dam at Kárahn- because the church is losing ground. The “There was a man in here the other day who I reckon must in the middle of the room, by a square pillar. On a table voice that is his own. He has also inadvertently gained quite land? tives that seem to exploit Iceland´s natu- júkar which will never make any money. They strata that is underneath is only coming up have tried on every suit in the shop,” said the assistant. Sturla beside the cash desk stood a shiny coffee machine – from a reputation for himself as a playwright, and his play Belgian Strangely enough it splits exactly in two. In ral environment. How do you interpret just crossed their fingers and built the dam when the patina of Christianity is starting to was not sure how to interpret this information. He himself the same country as the coat – and an artistic arrangement Congo ran at the City Theatre for almost 2 years and enjoyed small, what you would call primitive fishing the government´s behavior, specifically and it hasn´t leaked, at least not yet, but no fade away. This is so much alive in Iceland had not tried anything on yet; perhaps he reminded the of white coffee cups. great popularity. His novels Time Off (1999), The Pets (2001) communities, and mostly in the Westfjords with their policies that have been con- one knows what will happen when it is full. that it is not considered strange to be a Pa- assistant of this man. “Do have an espresso while we’re processing the and Party Games (2004) are undoubtedly among the most where they have been, until recently, sus- troversial for Icelanders and foreign It is too big a risk for a very small gain, so it gan. It is such a part of the national identity “You might know him,” continued the assistant. “I transaction,” invited the assistant, unfolding the coat in original and remarkable Icelandic novels of recent years tained by the seals. There, people are Pagan groups alike? is wrong. that it´s very difficult to define Iceland with- think he’s a painter or some kind of artist.” order to fold it up again. without being members of any organization, We should do like the ancient people did. We So Paganism is the original Green Party? out mentioning the ancient Paganism. “And did he buy a suit?” asked Sturla. Sturla placed one of the white cups under the nozzle they just know this is how things are and how should be scared of nature. We do know, and We would be, as I say, ecological, but in the 28_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_DISCUSSION/BOOKS REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_DISCUSSION/BOOKS_29

Auður Jónsdóttir Eiríkur Guðmundsson Guðrún Eva Mínervudóttir Haukur Már Helgason Kristján B. Jónsson Auður Jónsdóttir (b. 1972) is a highly revered Born in 1969, author, National Radio One Thirty-year-old Guðrún Eva Mínervudóttir The youngest of the group, Haukur Már A literary scholar and published author, author with a total of eight published works personality and literary scholar Eiríkur Guð- spent her youth moving between Iceland’s Helgason (b. 1978) released his first novel, Kristján B. Jónasson (b. 1967) is perhaps bet- under her belt, among those four well-re- mundsson has made a reputation for himself smaller towns, before reportedly sleeping Svavar Pétur & 20. Öldin (Svavar Pétur & the ter known for having, until recently, worked ceived novels. She was awarded the Icelandic as a veritable authority on Icelandic culture her way through college. She has thus far 20th Century) just last month. He has previ- as publishing director and head of develop- Literature Prize in 2004 for her novel Fólkið and literature. His collection of essays, 39 published five novels, as well as several po- ously released three volumes of poetry and ment for one of Iceland’s major publishing í kjallaranum (The People in the Basement) Þrep til glötunar (39 Steps to Damnation), was ems, short stories and translations. Her work been highly active in Reykjavík’s cultural life, houses, Edda. He currently serves as presi- and her just published fourth novel, Tryg- released in 2004 to critical acclaim, and his is widely acknowledged and critically lauded, co-founding the ever-growing publishing dent of the Association of Icelandic Book gðarpantur (Depositum) has received great recently published sophomore effort, a novel and her latest novel, Yosoy, was awarded the house/collective Nýhil. Helgason, an active Publishers and remains one of the industry’s reviews. Her works have been translated into entitled Undir himninum (Under the Sky), is DV prize for literature in 2005. proponent of Slavoj Zizek, holds degrees in leading voices. Swedish and Danish. already receiving the same treatment. philosophy and cinema studies.

Helgason: Eiríkur is wincing! Why? be construed as the real one, and when stu- Mínervudóttir: You did it once, with very sell-outs reside, but there are also tons of Jónasson: Well, Rokland is getting those dents return from Portugal, Spain or New good results. flops published in that genre every year. kinds of reviews. York, they bring home a sampling of what Jónasson: And once with really horrendous Helgason: That’s probably the surest way to Guðmundsson: That book is written spe- it has to offer. results. We can’t just have a slew of literary become a sell-out. You don’t have to do a lot cifically with a German audience in mind, Jónasson: That’s a good analogy, and if you masterminds writing nothing but epic works of writing when you start getting all kinds of isn’t it? look at each of the present company’s work of staggering genius for others of their ilk. pressure to write books about one person or Jónasson: They’re also raving about Höfun- you’ll find a lot of prototypes of larger liter- You also have to appeal to kids on their own another. dur Íslands [The Author of Iceland]. The dis- ary movements. Eiríkur represents the recy- terms. Jónasson: I think Iceland’s smallness imposes course is on a much different note than what cled, self-reflexive story, Guðrún Eva has the Helgason: Are you saying it’s easier to sell the greatest limits on Icelandic writers, where we had here, when people were focusing on macabre fantasy, and Auður’s work is actu- this age group worthless crap? it’s pre-determined what you can and can’t politics… ally the most European, in some respects her Jónasson: Icelandic kids read a lot. Just this do as an author. There are all kinds of unspo- Guðmundsson: When they market these new book could have been written by a Ger- year, there are 220 titles being released that ken agreements to be honoured, and fought. books in Germany, no matter what the sub- man. You have a distinctly European world- are aimed specifically at children. Around 30 People like Guðbergur Bergsson [fabled Ice- ject matter is, they always put the same pic- view; I was actually concerned when I read percent of children aged 8-10 subscribe to landic novelist] sometimes venture outside ture of a field on the cover, same as with the your latest work that Icelanders wouldn’t some sort of book club, they read a lot. Then, of those boundaries and reap anger and fear Laxness novels. A freshly mowed field, even warm to it. And then there’s you, Haukur, at age 12-13, their libido kicks in and reach- in the process. At the time he released his for Atómstöðin [The Atom Station]. They with the modern avant-garde. ing them becomes near impossible. Authors defining novel, Tómas Jónsson, Metsölubók, play that field; perhaps it’s our only chance Helgason: Avant-garde? start moralising and preaching, something [Tómas Jónsson, Bestseller] people were re- to get attention in that market? Jónasson: You know what I’m referring too, that’s bound to alienate and annoy their tar- ally upset, going as far as mailing him boxes A Christmas Flood of Books and Noah’s Freezer Trawler Jónasson: Well, you have to look at the sit- historically. get audience to no end. I think Manga com- of faeces. It’s those unwritten laws that pose uation over there. Many German publishers Mínervudóttir: Well, he did call mine a fan- ics are going to come on strong in a while, the greatest threat to Icelandic authors, not are very market-oriented and they base all tasy. they all feature OC-like plots, themes of jeal- selling out. It’s the fear of overstepping those Text by Haukur Magnússon Photos by Skari their covers on extensive research. The edi- Jónasson: Each of you is writing in a different ousy, gender blunders, etc. boundaries that have been silently agreed tors don’t have any say in those matters. genre, and you’re pretty much on your own Do Icelandic authors compromise to an on; doing that will always cause an author Helgason: You seem to think that the gold- there. You’re not necessarily engaging in a extent, to widen their appeal in order to to experience all sorts of righteousness and So, what’s the deal with Iceland’s heav- ceiving enough payment for their works. The try used its tricks to convince Icelanders that and they’re all amazed by how simple and en age is defined by your stint in the literary dialogue with your next-door colleagues, reach a greater success? rejection from the public. ily condensed book market, where al- state would have to sponsor the profession paperbacks are the new gospel? lyrical the narration is, exclaiming: ‘What!? business. I rather feel like it’s just beginning rather your voices are meant for a worldwide Helgason: Compromise isn’t the right word. Guðmundsson: The bottom line is that most all of the year’s titles are published to a much greater extent, either that or writ- Helgason: Since the paperback market got This is just a story!’ This applies to some of right now, this Christmas. There seems to be discourse. Writing a piece of text is like stretching out a there’s not nearly enough of us Icelanders in the space of three months? ers would have to work two extra jobs and its legs, books have started to sell a lot bet- the country’s most skillful writers, this symp- such a heap of good stuff coming out now. Helgason: Perhaps Iceland is like literary certain fabric of meaning that’s already out to maintain such a culture, or do any damn Kristján B. Jónasson: Well, it’s a gift mar- have a fat bank account to rely on. People ter here, and they’re now bought through- tom of , they just tell simple Jónasson: I never said it was over. Noah’s Ark in this respect. If everything goes there. It’s never merely your own, it’s some- thing, really. We still do, however. ket, one that clocks up sales for about 5-700 expect to pay a lot more for gift items, and out the year. lyrical stories. With noteworthy exceptions, it Mínervudóttir: We are facing an endless to hell out there, we’ll have a sampling of thing you have to pull at it without tearing it, Mínervudóttir: Like the Flateyri theatre million ISK each Christmas. The total mar- the publishers take that into account. They Jónsdóttir: They’re even selling them in gas feels to me as if post-modernism in literature golden age! everything there was. to employ a certain amount of force without club. ket brings in around 3.5 billion every year, even divide the market into certain catego- stations now. Guðrún, you were sort of a pi- is just making its way here now. Jónasson: It’s multi-voiced; a lot of very dif- Jónsdóttir: More like Noah’s freezer trawler, breaking it apart. Helgason: President Ólafur Ragnar Gríms- schoolbooks included. That isn’t a lot in light ries, for instance how a book is advertised, oneer in that field when you released Albúm Jónsdóttir: We also seem to define and in- ferent authors have been prominent in the where we keep one of each [the room bursts Jónasson: Like pulling at that Charles Atlas son pointed out in the recent Klink & Bank of the number of books aimed at it each presented in the media, the jacket design. in paperback form during spring, weren’t terpret our literature differently from some field. It’s hard to find a common denomina- out laughing at this point]. spring mechanism to exercise your chest. No, documentary that Iceland had a similar pop- year. Everybody is trying to get his slice of Guðrún Eva Mínervudóttir: Are you really you? of our neighbours. I published the same tor for all of you, for instance. Maybe Eiríkur Guðmundsson: Only one of each? I don’t think this question is really applicable ulation that Florence had during its golden the pie, present company included. that devious? I thought most publishers were Jónasson: Things have changed a lot since book here and in Denmark and Icelandic crit- and Auður are the most similar ones here. The Icelandic music scene is similar in to literature, selling out isn’t really an op- age. So, all of you have in common the fact idealists, primarily concerned with realising ten years ago. I remember when Einar Már ics kept referring to it as being of the realist We’ve been hesitant to draw lines and make this respect. What the literary estab- tion. Jónsdóttir: People in Denmark used to gig- that you publish books, and that you’re their vision. Guðmundsson’s Englar alheimsins [Angels vein, while the Danish media uniformly cited up categories, something that foreign trans- lishment needs now, then, is an Einar Mínervudóttir: I haven’t even had editors gle when I told them I was an author on the interested in selling them? Jónasson: It’s always a combination of the of the Universe] was released in paperback it as absurdist. So what we feel is realistic, lations can perhaps help us with. It can help Bárðarson [a prominent Icelandic music instructing me to compromise. It happened Icelandic market. The reaction was similar to Haukur Már Helgason: You two had this two. What I’m really saying is that the so- form two years after its hardcover release. they think of absurd. Neither interpretation us put things into perspective. promoter/agent]. once with a column I wrote for radio, they what people here would be like if I told them debate, didn’t you? Eiríkur doesn’t want lit- called Christmas book flood isn’t entirely a It sold tremendously well, and the industry is more correct, but I do feel we tend to look Helgason: With all the snow pouring down Jónasson: I can agree on that, we do need thought my death talk would offend all the I was writing solely for Keflavík’s populace. erature to be sold, and Kristján only wants it bad thing. was taken aback by it. No one expected that at things differently over here. outside, it’s tempting to look at Iceland as an Einar Bárðarson for the literary world. old people listening. Guðmundsson: At its core, I think writing to be sold… You’ve been quoted as saying that a paperback would be so successful. And Jónasson: We haven’t been doing a good the Platonic realm of Ideas. It could be said We’re having trouble reaching the young Jónasson: In terms of the Icelandic liter- for such a small market is a beautiful task to Eiríkur Guðmundsson: I remember noth- books in Iceland are too cheap, and that now, the amount of units sold increases each job of defining ourselves in regards to the that over here, we’ve got single represen- adults, the 15-20 year olds. It can easily be ary tradition, the only sure-fire way to be a undertake. It has a kind of poetic hopeless- ing of the kind. You tell us something about customers are thrilled when 20,000 ISK year, as well as the amount published. This outside world. We haven’t examined our tations of all the noteworthy trends in the done, if the task is approached on adequate- sell-out is to write a memoir or an interview ness. this, Kristján, selling the books. ones are released… year’s release catalogue has 300 more titles literature from an outside perspective, and outside world. The outside world could then ly commercial terms. book. Non-fiction, that’s where the literary Jónasson: Well, the first books were print- Jónasson: Yes, that is correct. This year’s than the one from 1996 – there are about we’re lacking a vision of how whatever it is ed in Iceland in the 16th century, but they popular Christmas present is a juicer that 700 titles being published and aimed at the we’re doing falls in place in a historical con- weren’t mass-produced and affordable until costs around 10,000 ISK. We all have so this year. text. the mid-19th century. That’s when the Ice- much money now, it’s ridiculous. But aren’t individual releases at a risk of Helgason: It’s especially noteworthy in light landic book market was created. The current Mínervudóttir: Then a cheap book makes getting lost when 700 hundred titles are of just how many literary scholars we have. tradition then takes shape following World for a bad present? released to such a small market? Jónasson: Yes, they’ve failed. The last 20 War II, because there was a shortage of Jónasson: When [publishing house] Edda Jónasson: You could say it’s a case of over- years have been a literary golden age in Ice- giftware in a country operating under rigid released their 20,000 ISK Atlas of Iceland production. land as far as I’m concerned, a lot of really currency restrictions but with a strong pur- last year, people were brimming with joy Helgason: If you think about it, it all makes presentable work has been published, things chase power due to economical upheaval that there was finally an expensive book they sense. There are 700 titles released each that stand comparison to the best of what’s during the war. You couldn’t import tradi- could spend their money on. year, and the Christmas season brings in up happening in Europe. It’s certainly telling that tional gift items, but there were few restric- Helgason: That sort of publication is cost to 700 million ISK. Shouldn’t they just pay only twenty years ago, it was an exception tions on importing paper. Thus the book was efficient? each author a cool million every January? if an Icelandic book got translated. There’s born as Iceland’s premier Christmas present, Jónasson: Man alive, it is! The Atlas in ques- Jónsdóttir: That would be really nice. An since been an explosion in terms of sales and although book sales pick up in every coun- tion has sold around 10,000 copies to this excellent solution. translations. try around Christmas. Right now, Britain is day. How would you describe the Icelandic Hasn’t that got a lot to do with market- raging with price wars and competition be- Helgason: Hmmm… this might be a new literary scene to an outsider? ing? tween those who vie for having this year’s direction for Nýhil? Jónasson: [In a forced Icelandic accent] Hall- Jónasson: Of course there are trends, but Við Tjörnina seafood restaurant was Christmas bestseller. Jónasson: I think the publishing industry isn’t dór Laxness got the Nobel Prize… you can’t get away with selling something established in 1986 and celebrates Auður Jónsdóttir: But other countries cer- paying enough attention; it keeps getting Jónsdóttir: When I was in Denmark, the only that amounts to a worthless piece of crap. tainly have more than one publishing period, lost in pre-Christmas price wars. The cata- author people asked me about was Sjón. As Jónsdóttir: That’s true. The crap gets sifted its 20 years annaversary now. and also a more constant literary discussion. logue prices for hardcovers are accurate as I was trying to explain him and summarise out pretty soon, but we do have authors Jónasson: The Christmas season is really is, and the paperbacks are reasonably priced, what else was going on here, I was struck such as Jón Kalmann [Stefánsson] and Hall- what keeps up the literary market here; with- too. They just have to focus on advancing by how disparate the literary landscape is in grímur Helgason getting five-star reviews in Opening hours are from 18.00 every day. out it, prices would drop as people would pri- that market, so that people will buy more Iceland. places like Germany. marily buy books for their own consumption, books for their own consumption. Helgason: I’ve given Italian friends some of Jónasson: They’re likening Hallgrímur Hel- Phone (+354) 551-8666. Templarasundi 3, 101 Reykjavík. and as a result authors couldn’t count on re- Mínervudóttir: Yeah, why hasn’t the indus- the Icelandic literature that’s been translated gason to Thomas Mann over there. www.vidtjornina.is - [email protected] 30_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_RECREATION/SPORTS

300.000 ÍSLENDINGAR

Loksins! 400.000 Icelandic Hockey Suffers for Lack of Ice Text by Virginia Zech Photo by Skari FERÐAMENN Forget everything you think you know about Skautafélag Akureyrar (SA) in Akureyri, and commemorate their Canadian hockey playing two Czech citizens, brothers, are playing for Icelandic hockey. Skautafélag Reykjavíkur (SR) and Björninn ancestors with a maple leaf and falcon crest. SR as well as one Canadian. When I asked For Icelanders this will mean accepting in Reykjavík – and two women’s teams – SA A native of Canada, new SR and Icelandic Coach Maggiacomo if the relative shortage that hockey is at least fairly popular here and Björninn. While this bodes well for the national team head coach Ed Maggiacomo of players growing up in the (500 players and counting). For outsiders, international and domestic competition in brings the crest’s symbolism full circle. was a problem for the national men’s team know that what Disney’s 1994 film D2: years to come, a rising interest in hockey, Speaking with the Grapevine, recruitment he replied no, stating that The Mighty Ducks implied about Icelandic and ice sports in general, has led to more Maggiacomo, former Danish women’s every country’s programmes are different. hockey was not exactly accurate. The vision logistical problems for current programmes. national team coach, said the schedule was “Some have big junior leagues and some presented of a Scandinavian hockey culture Even with no speedskating to speak of, tight. “Of course, you always want more don’t,” Maggiacomo explained. “It’s not a (played by some tall, silent, blond dudes) and curling still in its infancy (introduced in ice… but people are pretty good about problem.” is probably more aptly illustrative of the 1996 and only competitive for the past three sharing with the national team.” Though When Coach Maggiacomo returned to situation in Finland, if anywhere. Iceland years), ice-time at the nation’s rinks is booked ice-time is currently a logistical problem, it the ice, his wife Carol told me he is training itself has been forced to overcome a series solid. Between figure skating programmes doesn’t appear to be a sensitive issue for some of the older players to act as coaches of obstacles imposed by its small population to younger players. Teaching strategies of and rapidly changing climate conditions to instruction in the sport of hockey could be build its emerging hockey culture. Iceland his “legacy to leave behind,” as Carol put it, does not currently compete in the Junior Since the creation of a national competitive league for hockey playing Icelanders down the road. Goodwill Games, against a team of American in 1991, Icelandic hockey culture´s rise has been Carol explained that the players brought in hoodlums or otherwise. from abroad aren’t “super-star players… Icelandic hockey was born in Akureyri perceptible. The national league is currently com- And the team is starting to see that… They’re around the middle of the 20th century, and here to help them improve.” Carol also the northern city continues to pride itself on posed of three men’s teams and two women’s commented on the idea of a hockey culture its locals’ skills with a puck. Originally played teams. here in Iceland. “You’re instantly embraced on frozen ponds and rivers in wintertime, by hockey people,” she told me, going on to unpredictable weather made practising say that even so far away from Canada she difficult in the north and impossible in and hockey’s junior and competitive leagues those involved. Ice Hockey Iceland’s Chairman feels at home at the ice rink. warmer areas of the country. By 1990 (many of whose male players cross-upwards Viðar Garðarsson told the Grapevine that, Last year was Maggiacomo’s first Iceland had built two outdoor artificial rinks. through the three age divisions to play for though it is difficult to continue to build in Iceland. It was also the year that the Auglýstu í Grapevine sem – loksins – með Though manmade ice was an improvement multiple teams while they can) there is Iceland’s hockey enthusiasm without more Icelandic team hosted and won the Division on previous “facilities,” Viðar Garðarsson, only barely enough time to fit everyone in. space, he feels there is definitely a developing III World Championships, competing against Chairman of Ice Hockey Iceland, told the Considering that regular season games go hockey culture here. Pausing for a moment Turkey, Luxembourg, Armenia and Ireland. Grapevine that melting still caused problems. untelevised and are barely attended by local after seeing his son send his second puck The championship brought “about 2,500 nýjasta Íslendingnum nær til 700 þúsund manns Reykjavík’s rink “often looked more like a press, the enthusiasm is impressive. that week flying into a light fixture and people, most of whom had never seen a duck pond” than an ice rink.” Covers for Icelandic hockey culture, as such, might be showering the ice with glass, Garðarsson said game before,” Carol told me. Iceland’s win the existing arenas in Akureyri and Reykjavík somewhat new domestically, but Icelanders that expansion in ice facilities will come. The at that tournament earned them a spot in were constructed by 2000 and later, a third have been competing in hockey abroad since process is slow, but growing local support for Division II for the 2007 event. I asked Coach indoor rink was added in Reykjavík. the early 20th century. Icelandic emigrants to hockey will help, and eventually more ice will Maggiacomo what Icelandic fans can expect Canada attempted to gain entrance to the be available for Iceland’s athletes, he stated. from team Iceland this year. “We’re looking The Reykjavík Grapevine – Reykjavík’s Only English Language Newspaper Since the creation of a national competitive nation’s hockey teams. After being repeatedly Maggiacomo isn’t the only Canadian to stay in Division II,” he said, “and to get league in 1991, Icelandic hockey culture´s rise denied, they formed the Winnipeg Falcons. with the Icelandic programme this year. stronger” in the process. has been perceptible. The national league is The Falcons won the prestigious Allan Cup Icelandic teams recruit foreign players for Auglýsingadeild The Reykjavík Grapevine | 540 3600 | [email protected] currently composed of three men’s teams – in 1920. Icelandic national team jerseys the regular competitive season. This year 32_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_TRAVEL/HELSINKI

land has been officially independent since the least. Amused, but completely unable to 1917 – visitors can now see Finnish-designed participate (yeah, that’s my excuse), I depart- Art Nouveau and Functionalist buildings ed when the performers began to recycle from the early 20th century mingling harmo- themselves for encores. niously with the older neoclassical edifices. On my final day in Helsinki I dropped by Like most European capitals, Helsinki is the Senate Square (Senaatin Tori) to see En- bigger and busier than Reykjavík, where my gel’s Tuomiokirkko church, pristine outside journey began. Greater Helsinki is home to and austerely beautiful inside, before making over a million people, almost one-quarter of my way to dinner. Zetor (“tractor”) is a res- Finland’s population. Busses, ferries, a metro, taurant and bar decorated with exactly that. and electric trams make getting around the My delicious, though strong, reindeer dinner city easy on both travellers and their wal- would kick off my Saturday evening in the lets. In fact, the comprehensive public transit midst of Finns of all ages letting loose on the system had me dodging traffic several times enormous, not yet full, dance floor. when crossing the street – cars, trams, more After meeting up with my photographer cars. To get a better idea of Helsinki’s layout, for the trip, Sari Peltonen, we made our way on my second day I took a ride on the 3T, a to Erottoja Bar. The turquoise brick inte- tram that makes a loop around the city: past rior, live DJs, friendly bartenders, and Sari’s the university, an amusement park (complete friends filling me in on the specifics of Hel- with Ferris wheel), the Olympic stadium, one sinki’s karaoke scene, formed an eclectically of the lakes that bisects the city, a port, an pleasant atmosphere. They said, by the way, uncountable number of beautiful buildings, that home karaoke is becoming increasingly under the railroad going out of town, and popular and that there are, in fact, bars ca- through the downtown area. Though it takes tering to most genres so that one can choose over an hour to ride, including one cigarette a karaoke venue to suit their musical tastes. break for the driver, the 3T is well worth the About an hour later, Sari, her friends, and price at only two euros. I headed on to the next (my last – I swear) bar Seeking out a Finnish obsession, sauna, for the evening, We Got Beef. While waiting prompted my evening journey to a local in line to pay a two euro entrance fee I noted indoor pool. How was I supposed to know that the bar’s opening hours were listed un- that the pool segregated their hours by der the enigmatic heading “Hammertime”. gender because everyone swims and takes Once inside, we found ourselves in the midst saunas naked? Moving back in time a cou- of a couple of Finland’s more prominent mu- ple of weeks, I fell into a hole outside my sicians, several girls dressed in poofy dresses new apartment in Reykjavík and sustained and fairy wings, and the usual collection of a rather gruesome, grapefruit-sized bruise jovial drinkers. This might be a good time to Swim Naked and Sing Your on my hip before going to Finland. Having point out that the reputation Finns have for forgotten this, I couldn’t fathom why locals being cold is completely untrue in my expe- at the pool were staring at me in the sauna, rience. The only Finns who weren’t eager Heart Out in Helsinki and could only assume they had somehow to talk to me on my trip and share tips on sensed my foreignness. Helsinki and other travel advice (generally Upon realising I looked abused, I de- consisting of “go to X place outside Helsin- Text by Virginia Zech Photo by Sari Peltonen parted the saunas and made for the pool. ki” – Estonia seems to be a favourite) were Getting used the idea of swimming nude those who didn’t speak English. This particu- might have been easier if it weren’t for the lar location was no exception and certainly a Helsinki (Helsingfors) is in many ways the umbrellas in the snow (huh?). With this ex- women on the second floor balcony drink- good way to end my stay in Finland’s largest Nordic capital that tourism forgot: especially, ception, as well as that of the goth-punk ing tea in bathrobes. Perhaps the most sur- city. for reasons of both light and weather, in win- youth contingent who seem to take their prising discovery of the experience, though, After capping off my night out with ter. Keeping the aforementioned factors in hairstyling cues from Sharon Osbourne, the was that the lack of self-consciousness ex- some Danish hot dogs I bought on the street, mind, however, I surely wasn’t disappointed aesthetic in Helsinki is almost invariably busi- tended through generations. If you thought I returned to my hostel to rest up for the by the city in November. Following six hours ness chic and well put together. that only old women do water aerobics you next day. Regardless of specific advisories of flight delays out of Reykjavík due to bad The home of Marimekko and Alvar Aal- were wrong, at least as far as this pool goes, on where to go, my skis and I were off on weather, losing and locating my luggage to, Finland is big on design and aesthetics in and needless to say without swimwear. Dif- a gruelling 15-hour train and bus ride in the mid-journey, a brief nap (a little over an hour) general. Both art museums and good shop- ficult as it is to imagine high demand for a morning. The scene in our destination, Levi, in Copenhagen, and another – extremely ping are in no short supply. The architecture, crowded naked pool, on my way out I ran a ski resort in the Lapland and well above the early morning – flight out of Denmark, I fi- perhaps what Helsinki is most famous for, is into a mad – apparently after-work – rush at Arctic Circle, is another story entirely. nally arrived in the Baltic Sea-side city. Snow undeniably impressive in scale and kept as the door. was falling heavily as we made our decent (I surprisingly clean as the city streets. Snow- Obviously I couldn’t leave the capital with- couldn’t see the ground until the plane was fall that preceded my arrival made the urban out going in search of the Finnish karaoke The best way about three metres off the runway). landscape all the more picturesque. phenomenon. The next day proved that it’s to get to Helsinki: After a slippery cab ride to my new Finn- The layout of Helsinki’s city centre, and not hard to find. After arriving in the area my ish home, the fantastic (seriously) Hostel many of the buildings for which she is most hostel advised I try for such entertainment, Icelandair flies directly to Helsinki Erottanjanpuisto in Helsinki’s city centre, I recognizable, were designed by the German I followed some of the loudest noise into a in the summertime. took a walk in a nearby park. My efforts to Carl Ludvig Engel in the 1800s. When Russia bar. A surprising (for me anyway) percentage build any part of a snowman were foiled by defeated Sweden in the Finnish War in 1809 of songs were Finnish rather than English Icelandair flies to Copenhagen in lack of moisture, though some nearby kids the country changed hands and Helsinki, a pop. Perhaps more shocking was the unpa- the wintertime, where connecting managed to make a significant number of struggling city with few tall buildings, be- tronising enthusiasm palpable in the crowd. flights to Helsinki are abundant. snowballs. In summer, Helsinki’s parks play came the new capital (previously Turku). En- Clearly, the collected company thoroughly host to numerous live concerts and events. gel’s neoclassical architecture was an effort enjoyed dancing to karaoke and, perhaps, By November, with temperatures and day- at mimicking St. Petersburg, part of a Russian even more so than to the original versions light hours dwindling, they are slightly more attempt to put its own stamp on Finnish cul- of the tunes. The occasional singer pausing, sedate. People-watching on this particular ture. Almost 200 years after Russia’s capture pointing to his buddies, grinning and gestur- day I learned that the Finnish regularly use of the easternmost Scandinavian state – Fin- ing, didn’t seem to bother the audience in 34_REYKJAVÍK_GRAPEVINE_ISSUE18_2006_PARTING SHOT

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ISSUE EIGHTEEN: DECEMBER 1 - JANUARY 11

Stuffed with stuff When the first fistfight of the night broke out in the crowd, resulting in flood- lights being turned on and security rushing the mass of people, the computer nerd seemed genuinely up- set at the fact.” Haukur S. Magnússon attends a teen concert Page 10.

Many Icelanders must have been waiting for the op- portunity to say something about immigrants in this country – something nega- tive. Toshiki Toma weighs in on the immigrant issue. Page 12.

In the game, you get to know the players better The Reykjavík Grapevine Readers Survey than many of your friends and family. Steinunn Jakobsdóttir attends an EVE On- line fanfest and meets people who clearly Win a trip to GREENLAND need time away from their computers. Page 16. or around ICELAND Courtesy of Air Iceland and Reykjavík Excursions For the final act, the ‘Cubes brought out a special guest PRIZES in none other than Johnny Daytrip to Greenland for two with Air Iceland. Triumph, the only man alive who could justifiably Daytrip for two with Reykjavík Excursions. demote Björk to a back-up singer. The Reykjavík Grapevine readers survey at www.grapevine.is The Sugarcubes Reunite. Page 35. Tell us what you think. Answer honestly for a chance to win an exciting travel experience. How was I supposed to Prizes are valid for 12 months after acceptance. know that the pool segre- gated their hours by gender because everyone swims and takes saunas naked? Virginia Zech receives a culture shock in Helsinki. Page 44.