Issue 18 10 SPECIAL SPECTACULAR www.grapevine.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Xmas Special Spectacular 2010 2 Issue 18­

Xmas | Icelandic gifts to children who put their shoe in their windowsill for thirteen days before Christmas. However, their job descrip- tion didn’t expand to gift giving until the second half of the 20th century when the practice became widespread. “It comes from an old European tradition prac- ticed in port cities, such as Hamburg and Amsterdam,” Árni says. “In those cities, , who is really the prototype of the American Santa Clause, was naturally a popular figure as the patron saint of both sailors and kids. It happened that kids put their shoe, which symbolized a “ship,” in the window on 6, and the protector Saint Nicholas would visit them in the night and leave them a small gift.”

When Icelandic fishermen saw the cus- tom around 1930, they started doing it for their own kids in . Soon, they started doing it every Sunday of the Ad- vent. “As you know, can be pretty crazy,” Árni adds, “So by 1960, it exploded as a widespread phenomena wherein some kids received gifts every night in December.”

Reigning in the Yuletide lads

However, the excessive practice led to problems in play schools around Iceland. “I started working at the National Mu- seum in 1969 and old women—grand- mas—would call me and complain that this thing with the shoe was terrible,” Árni recalls. “Kids would show up to school and compare gifts, leading some kids to go home crying, ‘why isn’t Santa nice to me?’”

Árni told the grandmas that he wasn’t a policeman and he couldn’t ban anything, but that he would get in touch with the The Yuletide Lads Rise To Christmas Stardom day care workers association and pre- school teachers to discuss whether In Iceland, doesn’t live on ally trolls anymore, but they are still ugly. The clash of the Santas be a Christmas programme for kids,” he something could be done. “We decided the North Pole. He doesn’t come to town They don’t eat children, but they still explains. “There was a lot of discussion that we would try to change the practice, on a sleigh guided by flying reindeer. He steal food.” Then finally, in the 20th cen- The story of how the Yuletide lads came about what to do and the question arose, which had grown out of control,” Árni doesn’t squeeze down chimneys deliv- tury, they are still mischievous, but they to be the semi-nice, red-clad, gift-bearing if the Yuletide lads come on the radio, says. “On my weekly radio show about ering presents, and he doesn’t eat milk begin leaving small gifts for kids who put staples of Christmas can be explained by should they be the old mean Yuletide folklore, I suggested that the Yuletide and cookies. In fact, in Iceland, there is their shoe in the window. some major changes in Icelandic society. lads? Or should they have the new jolly lads only bring gifts during the thirteen no Santa Claus. On the contrary, there The first of which is when Denmark’s variety of Santa?” days before Christmas, and that the gift are thirteen jólasveinar, which is more monopoly on trade with Iceland was should always be something small, like accurately translated to “Yuletide lads” “Today, the Yuletide lifted in the mid 19th century. About half Árni continues: “It was out of these dis- chocolate.” rather than “Santa Clauses”. These mis- a century later, as a result of their new- cussions that the Icelandic Yuletide lads chievous country bumpkins live in the lads bring small gifts to found free trade, commerce in Iceland formally became thirteen and not one, “Our effort was successful, and since mountains and walk to town, one by one children who put their took off. Christmas markets sprouted up and although they weren’t malicious or then, they have remained fairly estab- for thirteen days leading up to Christmas in Reykjavík and Icelanders began sell- dangerous as they had been in the past, lished in their ways,” Árni says, adding Eve. While in town, they peep into win- shoe in their windowsill ing Christmas goods for the first time. they were still mischievous.” that every year since 1988, the Yuletide dows, slam doors, gobble up skyr, steal It was then that Icelanders were also lads have visited the National Museum sausages and candles, scrape leftovers for thirteen days before exposed to pictures of the Danish and Becoming gift bearing celeb- of Iceland in their everyday woolen garb, preserving their pre-1930 image for fu- from pots, lick bowls and spoons, and German varieties of the Santa Claus who rities harass sheep. Christmas. However, carried a bag full of gifts. “Those images ture generations of youngsters. were much debated in Iceland because The Yuletide lads really gained their -Anna Andersen While they may seem grim in compari- their job description those good guys who brought gifts for Christmas fame after their appearance son to the jolly grandfather-like coun- didn’t expand to gift the kids were called ‘jólasveinar,’ and the on the radio. “Although they couldn’t see terpart who cheerfully “Ho ho hos,” old people in Iceland said this couldn’t the Yuletide lads, kids could hear them the Yuletide lads have actually softened giving until the second be right because the ‘jólasveinar’ were talking to and singing with other kids considerably from their far more sinis- mean and ate kids.” who got to be guests on the programme,” ter past. Iceland’s leading authority on half of the 20th century Árni says. “It was then that parents start- Christmas, Árni Björnsson, explains So began the tug of war between the dif- ed ordering them for Christmas parties that folktales naturally change. “When when the practice ferent Santas, a debate, which culminat- and the decision was made to dress them the Yuletide lads are first mentioned in ed in another revolution, Árni says, when in the red outfit of the European version the 17th century, they are child-eating became widespread." the Icelandic National Broadcasting Ser- of Santa.” trolls,” he says. “Then two hundred years vice was founded in 1930. “Christmas later, in the 19th century, they aren’t re- was coming, and there was supposed to Today, the Yuletide lads bring small

HAUKUR S MAGNÚsson JULIA STAPLES Holiday Whale Watching

Daily Winter Whale Watching tours with Elding are scheduled from Reykjavík in December:

- Free entry to the Whale Watching Centre: Icelandic Christmas IIIdocumentary and music in addition to information about whales IIIand birds - Complimentary Holiday Punch and biscuits on board the Whale IIIWatching Centre on your arrival - From December 12th to December 24th you’ll get a gift from the IIIYule Lads - Warm overalls and blankets free of charge on board - Sighting guarantee: No sightings – you will get another IIIcomplimentary tour

Pick up service is provided in the capital area Notice: Weather permitting tours. Closed on December 25th and 1st.

Call us on 555 3565 or visit www.elding.is

Make sure it’s Elding! Tour Operator

Environmental Award Icelandic Tourist Board EarthCheck Authorised by SILVER CERTIFIED Icelandic Tourist Board elding.is 2011 The Reykjavík Grapevine Xmas Special Spectacular 2010 4 Issue 18­

Xmas | Disco Xmas | Shopping Disco Christmas FUN 1 2 3 The Professor knows how to do it! animals, werewolves, mummies and all sorts of cool entities you can expect to find in golden pyramids. When he’s not disco dancing, The Professor runs a refining academy for well-behaved and uninteresting children. The curriculum consists of dressing snazzy, strutting 4 5 their stuff and talkin’ jive, and is especially recommended for offspring of lawyers and marketing experts.

But how do they celebrate Christmas?

“Ah, Christmas on Disco Island,” quips Bragi. “Well, The Professor and the dwarf The Professor knows how to do it! start by searching the island for a perfect Everyone knows the Disco Island is the Christmas cactus. They bring it to the place to be. The fictional, tropical island pyramid and decorate it with mirrorballs 6 7 was conceived by our cover star Bragi and hang a Eurovision star on top. Then Valdimar Skúlason and is the framework they wax their pyramid and turn on the for his ambitious concept children’s disco wind machine to bring the mood. pop fun record ‘Diskóeyjan’ (performed by Prófessorinn and Memfismafían). Everyone on Disco Island gets a new studded collar and a disco cape in time Bragi tells us that Disco Island is located for the holidays, and then they just disco off the coast of Greenland, and that it is dance. It’s the perfect way to celebrate where a character called The Professor Christmas as far as I’m concerned.” lives, in a golden pyramid, which is also inhabited by a dwarf, some disco Your Fancy List It’s the quintessential 3. Classic Christmas tunes goes to fun humanitarian projects Xmas | Retro Christmas quandary. What to buy Every nation has its album of classic, in Colombia. You can thus buy some for the ones you love, the ones quintessential and somewhat gorgeous gifts and help heal the world at cringeworthy Christmas songs that they the same time. Double win. you like, and the ones you always hum along to while wrapping presents, Available from ‘59’, Hverfisgata 59. 700- “A Very Retro Christmas” end up buying something for out sing along to at office parties, and get 3.000 ISK of obligation. We compiled a list drunk to on Christmas Day. ‘Gáttaþefur Logi Pedro on how those kids celebrate of a few quirky choices that might í glöðum hópi’, the classic album by 6. Spring clean legendary Icelandic singer/entertainer/ To satisfy the domestic goddess in your “As for my personal fantasy Christmas, it just bring a smile to their dial. journalist/environmentalist, Ómar life, and on a budget too, take a look at would most definitely involve a heatwave Ragnarsson, will have you remembering Tiger’s range of rather cute and quirky hitting Iceland. I would lounge in my 1. Fresh films your Icelandic Christmas experience for household items. They actually made underwear, instead of having to put on a ‘Africa United’ by Ólafur Jóhannesson is years to come. me want to cook and clean just so I’d suit, and then hang out on the Nauthólsvík a quirky Icelandic film that tells the story Available from Skífan. 999 ISK have a chance to use them. Check out beach playing my ukulele and enjoying of Zico, a Moroccan living in Iceland their trés chic rubber gloves, uber-cute some sort of coconut cocktail. Tropical whose business goes bust during the 4. Reykjavík Towel heart shaped egg pan, and multicoloured Christmas, ahhh.” kreppa. In desperation he calls upon If you’re thinking a towel is a pretty utensils. fellow immigrants living all over Iceland unimaginative gift, then you definitely Available from Tiger, Laugavegur 13. 800- who come together to form an amateur haven’t seen the Reykjavík Towel. This 1.500 ISK football team. This fun and inspiring is one cool way to rub down! Its unique, film is in both English and Icelandic award winning, almost Grecian design 7. Perfect perfume with subtitles where necessary so you works for both men and women, and is Shopping for designer perfumes in can be sure you won’t miss a thing. fitted with a handy pocket and a little Iceland can leave a serious hole in your Available on DVD from Eymundsson. scrubby glove too. It’s creative, practical pocket. However if you don’t want to “For the past three or four years, we’ve 1.999 ISK done it by meeting up between Christmas and reasonably priced too, what more can pay up to 15.000ISK for leading brands and New Year’s throwing a fun concert. you ask for? but still want something special, then 2. Essential Eyjafjallajökull We’ll enjoy some good food and wine Available from Minja, Skólavörðustígur 12, check out Andrea Maack’s beautiful Coffee table books may be somewhat together—lobster, caviar and steak— 6.900 ISK range at Spark Design Space. The passé but this revised version of before the show, swap stories of our scents are based on translations of the ‘Eyjafjallajökull - Untamed Nature’ by Ari holidays and our presents, and enjoy 5. Tropical gems artist’s original drawings into scents by Trausti Guðmundsson is definitely worth one another’s presence. Then we step on If you find yourself wandering about on French perfumers APF. There are three a second glance. Featuring jaw dropping stage and play our hearts out.” Hverfisgata don’t miss a chance to check perfumes in the range, SMART, CRAFT photography and a chronological timeline out the wonderful range of Colombian, and SHARP. Take it from us, they are of the eruption from start to finish, it’s African and Icelandic jewellery, bags truly out of this world. written in both Icelandic and English, so and crafts at ‘59’. The store is run by Spark Design Space, Klapparstígur 33. it’ll be still be somewhat exotic for those international NGO Worldwide Friends, 9.800 ISK folks back home. so a percentage of everything bought Available from Eymundsson. 5.980 ISK Sari Peltonen

Kraum of the crop

The country’s largest National Museum of Iceland Clothing museum of cultural Opening hours: Jewellery Icelandic design Accessories history featuring a Summer permanent exhibition on (May 1st – September 15th) Daily 10–17 Furniture Iceland’s extraordinary Music Winter history from settlement Books (September 16th – April 30th) to present day. Daily except Mondays 11–17 Opening hOuRs Aðalstræti 10 June- AugusT 101 Reykjavík Mon-Fri 9-21 Tel: 517 7797 sat 10-17 www.kraum.is sun 12-17 Suðurgata 41 · 101 Reykjavík · Tel. +354 530-2200 · www.natmus.is Norræna húsið • Sturlugata 5 • 101 Reykjavík • Sími 551 7030 • norraenahusid.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Xmas Special Spectacular 2010 6 Issue 18­

Xmas | Dictionary

The Encyclopaedia of IcelandicThe A-Ö of the Icelandic Holidays holiday season By Haukur S Magnússon With additional reporting from Paul F Nikolov, Sveinn Birkir Björnsson, Páll Hilmarsson and Valgerður Þóroddsdóttir Illustrations by Inga Maria Brynjarsdottir

Aðfangadagur 23:30. The show itself is a comedy revue days leading up to the 31st. on formal attire and heading out to a friend’s (Ath-founga-dager) featuring many of Iceland’s best-loved actors After watching the Áramótaskaup comedy house to indulge in some hangikjöt or hot December 24th, Aðfangadagur, is the day that parodies the year’s events in sketches and revue and lighting some fireworks, most chocolate. Everything is closed. A very relaxed Icelanders celebrate Christmas (as opposed to song. The quality differs from year to year, but will head to a rowdier, less family oriented day, for most. December 25th in most countries). The first Icelanders love even the especially bad ones gathering and stay there ‘til dawn. half of the day usually goes towards finishing (because then they can complain to each other A note about the word “áramót”: like Jólaglögg off all of the last minute preparations, making about how much it sucked). It is not subtitled, many Icelandic words, it is impressively and (yo!-la-gludge) food, wrapping presents, bathing and putting so the fun is likely lost on non-Icelandic descriptively sensible, and it does not have a See also: Jólahlaðborð, drinking on nice clothes. Children are often occupied by speakers. It’s worth checking out, though, counterpart in the English language. Quite A hot beverage consisting of red wine, vodka, the television set, as most stations broadcast a you can always make fun of Icelandic TV’s low literally, “áramót” translates as “the meeting and spices. Often served with raisins. The word or Christmas Day—although non-stop programme of cartoons throughout production standards. of years”. Makes sense, doesn’t it? can also just mean a party of friends around indulging in a glass of wine or two isn't the day. Attire Hangikjöt Christmas time who get together under the frowned upon—as the days’ festivities are Six o’ clock marks the official start of Icelanders like to dress smart and snazzy over (Hownge-kjoet) pretext that they will drink Jólaglögg, when all generally reserved for family activities. The Christmas in Iceland, and this is when most the holidays. Formal attire is usually expected See also: Jólamatur they really want to do is drink anything with 26th, 31st and New Year’s Day are popular for households sit down to enjoy a pleasant holiday Hangikjöt—literally meaning “hung meat”— alcohol in it. You know, because of the dark. binge drinking and partying, however, as are meal. After dinner, most people commence is smoked Icelandic lamb which takes its name any weekend days that fall between the two opening their presents. They then hang out Jólahlaðborð days. and indulge until bedtime. (yo!-la-hlaeth-boerth) Aðventa See also: Christmas dining, eating out, (Ath-venta) Eating out Hamborgarhryggur See also: Christmas buffets, commerce A fairly new tradition in Iceland, connected Icelanders generally don’t like to eat out to the number of restaurants increasing in during the holiday season. If you are visiting, later years. A Jólahlaðborð is a Christmas and you plan on dining at a restaurant during buffet that people attend in groups, usually co- the holidays (see our special Xmas listings workers go together for a night of eating, but for details), chances are you’ll be dining with from the old tradition of smoking food in order mostly drinking. Many a marriage has been some fellow tourists. However, attending in the parties of the 24th and 25th, on other to preserve it by hanging it from the rafters put to a serious strain after a drunken night special Xmas buffets is a popular activity over days go for neat casual outfits. of a smoking shed. Hangikjöt is traditional at a Jólahlaðborð. Something about Christmas the . Christmas meat, often served with potatoes in brings out the adulterers in some people. Family a sweet white sauce and pickled red cabbage. Jólakort Icelandic Christmas is all about one’s family, Iceland doesn’t have a lot of original Xmas It’s pretty awesome. (yo!-la-kowrt) extended and otherwise. Generally speaking, songs, although there are a few to be found. Hamborgarhryggur Many Icelanders choose to parlay greetings most Icelanders will be busy spending time Aðventan, or the Advent, is the month leading Mostly the tunes meant to get you into the (Haam-bouwrger-hreggurrrr) to their friends and loved ones over the with their families from December 24th until up to Christmas. Icelanders celebrate each holiday spirit are translations of international See also: Dining holidays via the mailing of Christmas cards, or Sunday of the Advent (starting on the fourth Xmas ones (some of them don’t have anything A traditional Christmas food eaten on the jólakort. They will most often feature a generic Sunday prior to Christmas) by lighting candles whatsoever to do with Xmas), so the stuff 24th at six o'clock. It is pork, usually with a on an (“Aðventukrans”), blaring from the radio in the knick-knack which is usually a four-candle (one for each shop should sound familiar. There are some Sunday of the Advent) evergreen wreath. The popular local songs, however, the most first Sunday of Advent marks the time most infamous one being Sniglabandið’s Jólahjól Icelanders start decorating for the holidays and (“Christmas bike”). preparing in general. Christmas stockings Aðventukrans See also: Jólasveinar, Santa Claus Christmassy motif and some standard well (Ath-ventou-kraans) The Christmas stockings tradition is wishes, although some use the opportunities See: Aðventa. celebrated in Iceland, although it differs honey glazing and pineapple, cooked in an to send along pictures of the family. the eve of the 26th, so don’t expect that hot boy greatly from what you might be used to. oven for a few hours. This is a pretty heavy Jólakötturinn (or girl) you hook up with on the 23rd to be Aðventuljós As explained elsewhere, there are thirteen meal, resulting in the number of heart (yo!-la-koett-ur-enn) available for any immediate follow-up sessions (Ath-ventou-lyows) Yuletide lads in Iceland, and each one comes attacks increasing around Xmas when people To avoid, as the saying goes, “going to the (you should still try, though). Aðventuljós, or Advent light, is a decorative down from the mountains on a designated day who really shouldn’t eat fatty meat gorge Christmas cat,” children are required to object somewhat unique to Iceland. This before Christmas bearing gifts for children Flugeldar themselves almost to death. receive at least one piece of new clothing in (flug-oeld-arrrrr) seven-armed electric candlestick is found in to be placed in their shoe or stocking left by time for Christmas each year. Otherwise, the See also: Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld at least one window of almost every Icelandic an open window. It should be noted that well- Heitt súkkulaði cat will eat them. Flugeldar (“fireworks”) are an essential part home throughout the holiday season. See our behaved children receive something of value, (hate sooqou-laethi) of the Icelandic New Year’s Eve experience, in Xmas guide for more info. whereas ill behaved children usually receive a Indulging in a cup of freshly made heitt rotten potato. súkkulaði (“hot chocolate”) is an essential Annar í jólum part of the Icelandic holiday experience. (Aann-arr ee yo!-luwm) Commerce The classic recipe is thus: melt one plate of December 26th, the second day of Christmas, See also: Þorláksmessa ‘Suðusúkkulaði’ (available everywhere one is the designated party day of the holiday Like elsewhere, Christmas and commerce might buy chocolate) in a double boiler with season (New Year’s notwithstanding). The have very close ties in Iceland. Stores stay 1–2 cups of water. In a separate container, heat day itself usually entails heavy lounging and open until 11 PM on Þorláksmessa, the 23rd one litre of milk to the boiling point. Slowly stir attending a family Christmas party or two, of December, and until noon on the day of melted chocolate into boiling milk. Enjoy. but the evening has most of the action, with Christmas Eve. This is done in a mutual bars and clubs opening for business around agreement between late shoppers and greedy Jólaball midnight. Revellers like to go out at that time, shop owners who want to make sure that no (yo!-la-boll) decked in their fancy holiday attire and re- króna is left behind. See also: Jólaboð Jólamatur fact, the sale and deployment of fireworks is connecting with friends and acquaintances The jólaball, or Christmas dance, is a (yo!-la-maw-tuer) only legal in Iceland between December 28— that they haven’t seen for all of three days. longstanding tradition where children are See also: Christmas buffets, rjúpur, kæst Dancing . Like everything else Icelanders are herded by their parents or schools to hang skata, hangikjöt, jólaöl, jólasmákökur See also: Jólaboð, jólaball, jólatré fond of, they take their fireworks seriously— out, eat cake and candy and dance around Like in most other places, nourishing oneself Áramót Dancing around the is still most of those who have witnessed the mass a decorated tree while singing some classic over the holidays is all about indulgence. When (our-a-mowt) a widespread fad at Christmas dances in employment of fireworks at New Year’s will Christmas tunes. More often than not, one or it comes to jólamatur (“Christmas food”): the See: Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld. children’s schools around the country, but the agree that the act is far beyond over-the-top. more of the lads will make an appearance richer, sweeter, fattier and saltier, the better. tradition is slowly dying out as a practice in But most will also attest that the display is and disburse small gifts of candies. Áramótaannáll homes. It involves holding hands around the striking and beautiful. An added bonus is that Jólaöl (our-a-mowt-a-annoudl) tree and walking repeatedly in circles whilst most of the places selling them are doing so for (yo!-la-oel) Jólaboð Icelanders are fond of watching television singing Christmas carols. Hours of fun. charity, or to fund rescue teams. See also: Christmas dining (yo!-la-boeth) on New Year’s Eve, with most of the day’s Decorating Expect small blasts here and there as of The ultimate Christmas drink, Jólaöl (or: The Icelandic Xmas party—jólaboð—is programming dedicated to detailing See also: Aðventa, Aðventuljós December 27th, culminating in an all-out orgy “Christmas ale”) is created by mixing an traditionally a family gathering that involves the fast fading year’s events. Second to Icelanders like to decorate their houses a of explosions around midnight of New Year’s elusive ratio of Malt and Appelsín orange copious amounts of eating Christmas fare the Áramótaskaup in popularity is the lot in time for Christmas, with the start of Eve. soda. Although you can now buy this drink Áramótaannáll on RÚV, a collage of the year’s Advent usually marking the official ‘OK such as hangikjöt and cookies, drinking coffee TV news stories with commentary from the and chocolate, talking about the weather and Gamlársdagur/Gamlárskvöld engaging in the latest board games (although news team. An international version and a (gaaml-ouwrs-daager / kvoeld) Trivial Pursuit is always a classic). local one run back to back. Check newspapers’ See also: Fireworks, drinking, Áramótaskaup, TV listings for more info. Áramótaannáll, Áramótabrenna [Note: Jóladagatal Áramótaskaupið Gamlársdagur refers to (yo!-la-dae-ga-tael) (our-a-mowt-a-skoj-pith) New Year’s Eve’s Day, and The jóladagatal (“Christmas calendar”) is used Gamlárskvöld refers to to count down the days from December 1st New Year’s Eve itself] until the 24th and is a must for children of all time’ for decking the halls. Decorations are The coming of the New ages—some adults like to indulge as well. The similar to what may be found in the rest of the Year is celebrated pretty most common variety has a differently shaped premixed, it’s way more fun to mix it yourself, Christmas-celebrating world: pine branches, heavily in Iceland. Drinks piece of chocolate for each day, although some according to taste. Note that it contains no light sets, Santa-related effigies and various are drunk, fireworks are of the crappier ones just have dumb, holiday alcohol. Which is nice for a change. knick-knacks and doodads. American style lit and vomit is, eventually, related pictures. Some families like to craft lighting monstrosities are uncommon, but not spewed. Although there is their own, wrapping small gifts for each day. unheard of. no rule, most folks like to gather for a nice dinner feast with family and/ Jólasmákökur or friends at the start of the evening (or late in Jóladagur (yo!-la-smouw-koek-er) Gathering around the TV on New Year’s Eve the afternoon). They hang out, drink drinks, (yo!-la-daguer) See also: Dining to watch the Áramótaskaup comedy special Drinking play board games and watch the TV recap of See also: Jólaboð Jólasmákökur (“Christmas cookies”) are on RÚV is an old and honoured Icelandic See also: Annar í jólum, Gamlársdagur/ the preceding year. Many head out to their Jóladagur—Christmas Day—is the big day an essential part of the Icelandic holiday tradition—in fact the streets fall completely Gamlárskvöld local New Year’s bonfire, a complete list of for family gatherings and Christmas parties. experience. Most households bake their own silent during its broadcast time of 22:30- Heavy drinking is generally not condoned on which is published in local newspapers on the Many like to sleep in and relax before putting cookies in the weeks leading up to Christmas, The Reykjavík Grapevine Xmas Special Spectacular 2010 7 Issue 18­

making an average of 3–5 different types. In any case, there’s nothing wrong with Jólasveinar Xmas | Opening Hours They are then consumed at Christmas asking. Xmas presents are stored under the (yo!-la-svain-er) gatherings or while lounging about with ones Xmas tree until they’re due to be opened. See also: Christmas stockings, Santa Claus new presents. Some classic types include: The Icelandic Jólasveinar (Yule Lads) have little Piparkökur (ginger snaps”), Mömmukökur Religion and church to do with the international Santa Claus. They (ginger snap-type cookies sandwiched around Even though around 80% of them are enrolled are descended from trolls, and were originally white frosting), súkkulaðibitakökur (chocolate in the State Church, Icelanders have never bogeymen used to scare children. During this Holiday Opening chip cookies) and hálfmánar (rhubarb been known to be particularly enthusiastic century they have mellowed, and sometimes preserves wrapped in dough), although the churchgoers or observers of religious customs. don red suits. Their number varied in old varieties are endless. Indeed, Christmas isn’t a particularly religious times from one region of Iceland to another. Your Grapevine Guide holiday in Iceland. However, many folks The number thirteen is first seen in a poem like to attend Church services and concerts about Grýla (the Lads’ mother) in the 18th Hours Jólatré century, and their names were published by Compiled by Eimear Fitzgerald (yo!-la-tr-yeah!) during the holidays, Jón Árnason in his folklore collection in 1862. See also: Þorláksmessa, Christmas presents particularly on the 24th About 60 different names of Yuletide Lads are Since many of you reading this may be tourists stranded in Iceland over the coming Icelanders’ Christmas trees are usually and the 31st. Check with known. They visit the National Museum on Holiday season, we decided to compile a little list for you detailing what’s open, and installed on December 23rd, with the actual your tourist information each of the 13 days before Christmas. when. Seeing as how most of the country pretty much shuts down during the Holidays, decorating taking place on the 24th (although centre for complete On December 12 the Yuletide Lads begin this does differ between households). Various church listings. it can be tricky enough to find places to eat and things to do, but hopefully this guide to come to town. The first is Stekkjastaur organisations, such The ringing of will keep you fed, watered and entertained. We tried to make it as comprehensive as (Sheepfold Stick), who would try to drink the as the local rescue the church bells of we could, but apologies if we've missed something. milk from the farmers’ ewes. squads, sell live trees to Reykjavík’s Lutheran A good rule of thumb to go by when planning any of your Holiday activities is to On December 13 Giljagaur (Gully Oaf) fund their operations, Cathedral is broadcast assume that most shops and restaurants are closed, and just call up the ones you’re arrives. Before the days of milking machines, although private on all major television and radio stations interested in checking out. This should help avoid any disappointments. he would sneak into the cowshed and skim the companies also partake. throughout the country promptly at 18:00 The Official Tourist Information Centre has the most up-to-date information so be froth off the pails of milk. Fake plastic trees aren’t on Christmas Eve, at which point everyone sure to pay them a visit, or check out www.visitreykjavik.is. The Lad who arrives on December 14 is very popular, although wishes each other a Merry Christmas and sits Stúfur (Shorty) who, as his name implies, some folks prefer them. down to eat. is on the small side. He was also known as 25: Closed 25/26: Closed Pönnuskefill (pan-scraper), as he scraped Buses Kæst skata Returning gifts 26: Closed 31: 10:00-12:00 scraps of food off the pans. (kjae-st skaaa-taaaa) See also: Commerce Bus Information: Call 31: 08:00-12:30 1: Closed

See also: Þorláksmessa Exchanging one’s Xmas gifts in lieu of 540.2700 1: Closed The consumption of kæst skata, or rotted skate, something more desirable is a common City Buses 10-11 grocery stores: on the 23rd of December is a holiday tradition practice in Iceland. Most stores will accept 24: Saturday Service until Vesturbæjarlaug: ALWAYS OPEN! - derived from the West fjords of Iceland. The returns until the second week of January, 14:00 24: 08:00-12:30 selected locations. dish—which many swear by, and others find although policies differ. 25/1: No service 25: Closed especially foul—is most often imbibed at Rjúpur 26: Sunday service 26: Closed Bars that got special skate gatherings around noon on the (ryooe-purr) 31: Saturday Service until 31: 08:00-12:30 23rd, and is often served along with potatoes, See also: Jólamatur 14:00 1: Closed back to us butter, rye bread and shots of brennivín (most Wild fowl rjúpur, or ptarmigan, are a popular West Fjords experts recommend drinking main course for many families Christmas Reykjavík Excursions: The Blue Lagoon Café Oliver milk with the skate, as the fish is “intoxicating meals. The small birds can be delicious if 24: Tours operating: 23: 10:00-17:00 24/25/1: Closed in and of itself”). handled properly, and have a rich, gamey sort Golden Circle Tour and 24: 10:00-13:00 31: Open until 15:00 The skate is a chondrichyte, and therefore of taste. The Grapevine recommends trying Blue Lagoon Tour On December 15, Þvörusleikir (Spoon-licker) (restaurant closed) ferments when allowed to rot, as its urine some if you have the chance. The English Pub: comes down from the mountains. He would Other days are operated 25: 10:00-15:00 is distributed through its flesh and goes 24/25: Closed steal the wooden spoon that had been used for according to program (restaurant closed) through a chemical change over time. 26/31/1: 12:00-06:00 stirring. When he visits the National Museum, and schedule. 26: 10:00-20:00 They are in fact poisonous if eaten before 31: 12:00-06:00 he goes looking for wooden spoons. 31: 10:00-16:00 the fermentation process is complete. It is On December 16, Pottasleikir (Pot-licker) Iceland Excursions: 1: 10:00-20:00 fermented by throwing it in a box and letting Íslenski Barinn: comes visiting. He tried to snatch pots that 24: Tours operating: it lie for three weeks. 24: Open until 15:00 had not been washed, and lick the scraps from Golden Circle Classic, Museums/ Laufabrauð them. Greater Area Reykjavík 25: Closed (loi-fa-brau-eth) Askasleikir (Bowl-licker) arrives on Sightseeing, The Blue Galleries 26: Open at 17:00 See also: Aðventan December 17. He hid under beds and if Lagoon and Keflavík 31: Open until 18:00 The making of laufabrauð, or “leaf-bread,” someone put his wooden food-bowl in the airport and The Blue 24/25/26/31/1: ASÍ Art 1: Open is usually a family-affair taking place early floor, he grabbed it and licked it clean. Lagoon. Museum, Gerðarsafn, in December. People gather together to cut Hurðaskellir (Door-slammer) comes on 25: Tours operating: The Nordic House, Kling & Restaurants intricate patterns into this deep-fried, thin December 18. He is an awfully noisy fellow, Golden Circle Afternoon, Bang, Saga Museum in Frequently who is always slamming doors and keeping Iceland from Below, Perlan, Gallery Agúst, people awake. Iceland from Below & The Hitt Húsið, The National Open During the The Lad who is expected on December 19 Blue Lagoon, The Blue Gallery, Gerðuberg Holidays is called Skyrgámur (Curd Glutton), because Lagoon. Cultural Center, Sigurjón he loves skyr (milk curd) so much that he 31: All tours operating Ólafsson Museum, Babalú Santa Claus sneaks into the pantry and gobbles up all the except: Blue Lagoon/ Gljúfrasteinn Museum 24: Open until 17:00 See also: Jólasveinar skyr from the tub there. Viking Horse at 14:00, - All closed 25—1st: Open right We have no need for your international big, Blue Lagoon at 16:15 through the holidays fat, jolly, capitalist greed-mongering Coca Cola flatbread, which is then enjoyed as a tasty and 16:30 and Northern The Culture House Bistró Vox-Hotel snack to accompany any Christmas event or Santa Claus in Iceland, as we have thirteen of Lights at 20:00. There is 24: Exhibitions and shop Nordica meal. It goes exceedingly well with butter. our own that are much cooler. He still makes are open from 11:00-4:00. an appearance from time to time. Oh we like a special New Years Eve Open every day. Café closed him fine enough, he’s a jolly good fellow and tour entitled Bonfire and BSI Bistro: Nýársdagur 25: Closed all. Fireworks at 20:00. Open all through the (knee-ouwrs-da-guer) Other days are operated 26-30: Exhibitions and holidays See also: Drinking according to program shop 11:00-17:00. Café Vacations Cafe París: Icelanders like to spend most of New Year’s Day and schedule. closed Icelanders usually take pretty hefty Xmas 24/25: Closed feeling hung-over and sorry for themselves. 31: Exhibitions and shop 31: Open until 18:00 As the evening approaches, many will start vacations, with , 25 and 26 all The Official Tourist open 11:00-14:00. Café 1: Open pulling themselves together and dressing up being legal holidays, as well as December 31st Information Centre closed Fiskfélagið/The Fish for New Year’s Day banquets or parties that and January 1st. A lot of folks actually take Dec (The Centre) 1: Exhibitions and shop Company have grown popular lately. Others will stay in 23–Jan 2 off entirely—so don’t expect a lot to 24: 09:00-12:00 open 11:00-14:00. Café 26/31/1: Open as usual watching DVDs or something. get done during the Xmas season. Bjúgnakrækir (Sausage Pilferer) comes on 25: Closed closed Fjalakötturinn-Hotel December 20. He loves sausages of all kinds, 26/31: 10:00-14:00 Reykjavik Centrum Opening hours Þorláksmessa and steals them whenever he can. 1: 09:00-18:00 The Reykjavík Art Open for Dinner See also: Commerce, eating out (thoer-louwks-mess-a) On December 21, Gluggagægir (Peeper) Museum: See also: Kæst skata, commerce Christmas Day and Eve If you are touring in Iceland for the holiday arrives. He is not as greedy as some of his 24/25: Hafnarhús, In celebration of one of only two Icelandic Pools with reservations. season, we can only hope someone told you brothers, but awfully nosy, peeping through Kjarvalsstaðir and saints, St. Þorlákur, Icelanders eat fermented Fish Market of Iceland’s antiquated opening hours for that windows and even stealing toys he likes the Ásmundarsafn - Closed skate, which preferably is swallowed with look of. Árbæjarlaug: 26/1: Open for dinner time. You will not have much luck locating 26: Hafnarhús, copious amounts of Icelandic Brennivín On December 22 Gáttaþefur (Sniffer) 24: 08:00-12:30 Gamla Smiðjan open restaurants—or open anything-else — Kjarvalsstaðir and schnapps. Then, they will traditionally gather comes calling. He has a big nose, and he loves 25: Closed 26/1: Open during Christmas or on New Year’s. Check out Ásmundarsafn 13:00 - on the shopping street Laugavegur to do some the smell of cakes being baked for Christmas. 26: 12:00-18:00 31: Open until 16:00 our holiday listings guide for info on places 17:00 that are actually open and happy to serve you. last minute shopping (although some do the He often tries to snatch a cake or two for 31: 08:00-12:30 Hamborgarafabrikkan 31:Hafnarhús 10:00 - 1: Open Presents bulk of their shopping on that day), drink himself. 1: Closed 14:00 Icelandic Fish & Chips: See also: Commerce, Aðfangadagur, jólatré Christmas beer or hot chocolate and have a December 22 was sometimes called 1: Hafnarhús 13:00 - 31: Opens 16:00 Of course Xmas is all about the presents, and a merry ol’ time. Also, this is traditionally the hlakkandi (looking forward), because the Breiðholtslaug: 17:00 1: Open lot of debt is incurred during the season, even day that children are allowed to decorate the children had started looking forward to 24: 08:00-12:30 Kaffi Sólon though we’ve yet to discern completely how Christmas tree. Christmas. 25: Closed the act of spreading goodwill through gifts On 23 December, St. Þorlákur’s Day, 26: Closed Stores 31/1: Open is affected by the full impact of the Kreppa. Þrettándinn Ketkrókur (Meat Hook) arrives. He adores all 31: 08:00-12:30 Lounge 1919 (thu-rhett-ouwn-din-n) meat. In olden days he would lower a hook 1: Closed Lyf & Heilsa Drugstore, 24/25/26/31/1: Open January 6 is Þrettándinn (“the thirteenth”), down the kitchen chimney and pull up a Egilsgata 3, 101 Reykjavík 31: Open until 20:00 the thirteenth and final day of Christmas leg of lamb hanging from a rafter, or a bit of Grafarvogslaug: 24: 9:00-12:00 Restaurant & Bar Hotel according to Icelandic tradition. The event is smoked lamb from a pan, as smoked lamb was 24: 08:00-12:30 25/26/27: Closed 101 celebrated with torch processions, bonfires, traditionally cooked on St. Þorlákur’s Day. 25: Closed 31: 10:00- 12:00 31/1: Open fireworks, and the king and queen of the Kertasníkir (Candle Beggar) comes on 26: Closed 1/2: Closed Tabasco’s hidden people traditionally join the festivities. Christmas Eve, December 24. In olden times, 31: 10:00-12:30 24/25/26/31/1: Open Back in olden times, it was a scary time to be candlelight was the brightest light available. 1: Closed Lyf & Heilsa Drugstore, Tíu Dropar: out and about, as the hidden people can be Candles were so rare and precious that it was Hringbraut 121, 107 24: Open surprisingly sinister. a treat for children to be given a candle at Laugardalslaug: Reykjavík 25-1: Closed Christmas. And poor Candle Beggar wanted 24: 08:00-12:30 24: 10:00-13:00 Tapas Barinn one too. There are no specific guidelines for Xmas gift 25: Closed 25/26: Closed 31: Open During the thirteen days before Christmas, giving in Iceland, but a good rule of thumb is 26: 12:00-18:00 31: 10:00-12:00 1: Open the National Museum presents actors dressed to avoid being extravagant in your gift choices, 31: 08:00-12:30 1: Closed as the old-school Jólasveinar. They show up unless maybe something extravagant is called 1: 12:00-18:00 for or expected on the other end. around 11 AM each day. National Museum, Kringlan Shopping Generally most folks tend to stick with Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík. Tel. 530 2200. Mall: (By Paul F Nikolov. Originally appeared in issue Sundhöll Reykjavíkur: bestowing presents upon their immediate 23: 10:00-23:00 16/2005. Santa Claus drawings are also from the 24: 08:00-12:30 family and loved ones, although some like to 24: 10:00-13:00 spread the joy to their entire group of friends. same issue) The Reykjavík Grapevine Xmas Special Spectacular 2010 8 Issue 18­

Xmas | History

A Slice of Icelandic Christmas Through the Ages: The story of a winter feast turned commercial boom.

How did a child-eating ogress, thirteen mischievous this time. They aren’t mentioned until the 17th century. the late 17th and 18th century, and the even stricter Night (Þrettándinn in Iceland). So, the number of yule- yuletide lads and a creepy bogeyman crash However, the ogress Grýla, who is now known as their form of pietism. tide lads was very clever, because they could come to Christ’s birthday party? Ethnologist Árni Björnsson runs mother, is in the picture by this time. We’re not sure if Pietism was like the Taliban in Afghanistan. They town one by one for thirteen days until Christmas and through the history of the Icelandic Christmas and ex- she was tied to Christmas. She was usually mentioned banned everything. People were hardly permitted to then leave one by one until the last day of Christmas on plains how this fascinating mix of paganism, Christianity around Christmas, but she is likely a supernatural be- laugh. Everyone was supposed to be thinking about January 6. Since then it has become a ritual. It just fit so and commercialism came to share the holiday. ing associated with the dark. These kinds of child-eat- the dead and afterlife. During this time, people weren’t well. ing monsters who lurk in the dark are part of English supposed to participate in leisurely activities like card JÓL: A WINTER FEAST TO COMBAT THE DARK and German stories as well. playing or dancing on Christian days. This period of JÓL: AN EXPLOSION OF GIFTS Let’s start with 1000, the year Chris- pietism lasted to around 1900, although the ideas lin- What about 1950 after World War II tianity was adopted in Iceland. What So the yuletide lads are first men- gered longer. and the American occupation, did was Christmas like? tioned in the 17th century. What’s hap- I can even remember it myself as an eight year old Christmas change? boy in 1940. My elder brothers wanted to play cards First of all, people don’t realise that Christianity is pening with Christmas in 1600 then? Around 1900, there was a greater European influence after dinner on Christmas Eve, and my Mom forbid rather young in the world. In Iceland, it was officially After 1600, there are a lot of changes in Icelandic so- on Christmas, but by 1950 the American influence was them—although they didn’t listen. It’s because she grew adopted in the year 1000, but it didn’t manifest itself ciety. Folklore often mirrors what’s happening in soci- stronger. I moved to Reykjavík in 1947, and I remember up with the rule that it was not Christian to play cards in the blink of an eye. It happened that the Norwegian ety. So, it makes sense that Grýla and the yuletide lads there were a few families that were highly American- on Christmas Eve, an idea that still lived with her. King threatened to forcefully convert Iceland to Christi- are grimmer during this difficult time for Icelanders. ized. They had the Santa Claus who brought gifts, but anity as he had done it in Norway, so Icelanders agreed In 1602, the Danes banned Iceland from trading with most people were really against Americanising the to adopt Christianity, rationalising that it didn’t matter countries other than Denmark, and this was tough be- JÓL: MEETS NEW IDEAS yuletide lads. if they officially believed in Odin or Christ. The Bishop cause Iceland relied on many imported goods. To make Moving along then to 1900 after the Regarding Christmas presents, they were unheard wasn’t appointed until 1050, and it really took a few matters worse, the colder period in Iceland also sets heyday of pietism, what’s going on? of—at least among the general public—until the late generations for Iceland to be Christian. in around 1600. The period is referred to as “Iceland’s In the mid 19th century, Iceland enjoyed free trade 19th century. People might have gotten something As you know, we use the word “jól” for Christmas, humiliation,” which Halldór Laxness describes in his again. But it took an entire generation for Icelanders to new to wear, like mittens or a scarf, but it was more and jól is a much older celebration, although we don’t book, ‘Iceland’s Bell.’ learn to trade. It wasn’t until perhaps 1870 that stores like a Christmas bonus. The gift-giving extravaganza, know exactly how old. It’s a lot of guesswork at this So, those things we call “jólavættir,” or supernatural started appearing in Iceland. Where we’re sitting [in a which is part of today’s Christmas, took off with a boom point. Even though we have stories, they aren’t de- beings of Christmas—including the yuletide lads, their downtown Reykjavík coffeehouse], a small centre of around 1940 though. tailed. We know there was a celebration of jól, but ogress mother Grýla, and the Christmas cat—those ele- commerce sprouted up, and if one looks at papers be- This was first and foremost because Icelanders what’s that? We don’t know exactly. It most likely ful- ments were probably incorporated into the Christmas tween 1880 and 1900, you can see advertisements for emerged from the war years with money after living filled the psychological need to have good time during tradition to keep kids in line. Everyone was supposed Christmas products for the first time. Still, it’s important through a long Depression. I remember the change darkest month of the year. What we do know is that to work hard to do all the things that had to be done to remember that in 1900, 80% of the population re- as an eight-year-old boy. My siblings, who were work- people had a good time, eating and drinking well. They before Christmas, and some people were lazy, you see. sided in the countryside, so even though there were ing for money in Reykjavík, sent a big package to our probably drank beer or ale and most likely ate lamb, as So it was said that if you weren’t diligent at working, Christmas products in Reykjavík, they hadn’t reached home in the countryside. Usually one got small Christ- the food didn’t change much in Iceland. the Christmas cat would come for you. What did the the majority of the country. mas presents, like a small notepad and pencils, but the Christmas cat do? We’re not really sure. Early on there The year 1930 is a significant one. This is when the package was full of gifts for everyone. I had never got- JÓL: HAUNTED BY SCARY SUPERNATURAL was never any mention of the cat eating kids, although yuletide lads formally become thirteen and adopted the ten presents like that before, and we are talking about BEINGS the story evolved that way. red uniform of their European counterpart, who came books and clothes. Since then, gifts have been a big to Iceland in the form of pictures. In face of this nice What about 500 years later, what was part of Christmas. JÓL: HIJACKED BY THE TALIBAN PIETISM European Santa who carries a bagful of gifts, the grim Although Christmas is never exactly the same, it Christmas like in 1500? In 1746, there was a regulation ban- Icelandic yuletide lads softened up, quit eating children has remained fairly stable over the last few years. Only, By the year 1500, the Church had become rich. It was and settled for being petty criminals and pranksters. it’s more difficult to find Christmas presents these by far the biggest landowner in Iceland, with claims to ning the “foolish custom of scaring The story of how they became thirteen has to do days because everybody already has everything. Still, fifty percent of the land. The Christmas feast was likely children with the yuletide lads and with the Christian belief that there were thirteen days Christmas has always been about getting together with similar to what it had been. People generally wanted to ghosts.” How does this fit into the of Christmas. Because it doesn’t say anywhere in the the family and that strong tradition still holds true. have fresh meat on Christmas Eve, so they would feed story? Bible when Jesus Christ was born, there were discrep- a sheep well for the occasion. On December 25, they For background, first the Catholic Church came to Ice- ancies between the Eastern Church in Constantinople, might have enjoyed smoked lamb. There was a great land and lasted to the mid 16th century. Then came The which said it was January 6, and the Western Church influx of imports in the 15th century, including wine, so Reformation around the year 1600, with the Evangeli- in Rome, which said it to be December 25. Alas, Rome they probably had wine as well. cal Lutheran Church, which believed that the Catholic triumphed and it was decided that January 6 would be Anna Andersen There is no recorded mention of the yuletide lads at Church was amoral. Next came Lutheran Orthodoxy in the last day of Christmas, known widely as the Twelfth Hörður Sveinsson

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Open to 10 pm every day from 9th of Desember. Mon - Wed 10-18:30, Thu 10-21, Fri 10-19, Sat 10-18, Sun 13-18 | Tel 517 9000 The Reykjavík Grapevine Xmas Special Spectacular 2010 10 Issue 18­

Music | CD Reviews X-mas music buyer's guide

Baggalútur Retro Stefson Siggi G. og Memfismafían Ensími Hjaltalín Næstu Jól Kimbabwe Nú stendur mikið til Gæludýr Alpanon

baggalutur retrostefson siggiogmemfismafian ensimi hjaltalinband Warms the heart of the toughest The thing to move you! A great ironic soundtrack to a Occasionally brilliant, but here’s hoping Symphonic sweetness from trusty gangland torture session the bad half improves with time. favourites.

As a general rule, Christmas albums are a Retro Stefson know how to have a good time As Here’s one thing my sarcastic inner-mono- There is a beautiful simplicity to roughly half Hjaltalín are locally renowned for their live jingly, tinkly waste of money and should be and their latest album, Kimbawe, is no ex- logue mentioned the other day: “You know of this album that is difficult to shake, a core of performances, and their new live album, avoided if not outright banned. The latest out- ception. The band is well recognised in the what you REALLY need right now? Some easy excellent tracks that make the disappointing ‘Alpanon’—a live album that documents their put from comedy group Baggalútur, ‘Næstu Reykjavík music scene for rocking collective listening music to help you survive the Christ- openers and closers all the more painful. Long concert with the Icelandic Symphony Orches- Jól’, may however be an exception. A collec- socks off, both in their live shows and studio mas gravy delivery system this year.” Then in a chords and gloriously laid-back vocals com- tra this spring (nicely packaged as a CD/DVD tion of their own brand of Christmas songs, albums, of which Kimbawe is the second. The stroke of good timing, such an album drops on bine cheesy-synthed, delay-drenched ‘80s combo)—is a testament to their deserved the group has covered a number of well- album is fun and rhythm filled, good for a bit of my desk, courtesy of Sigurður ‘Hjálmar’ Guð- sensibilities with Ensími’s melancholic/eu- reputation. known hits and written witty Icelandic lyrics a living room dance, one healthy way to while mundsson and Memfismafían. phoric shoegaze side on wonderful tracks like Hjaltalín’s unique style is complimented to go with them, which generally cover differ- away the dark winters we get in these parts. If Eleven tracks (plus a DVD performance) ‘Sáttarhönd’ and ‘Gæludýr’, the beautiful ‘90s well by the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and ent topics than your usual Christmas songs. you are looking for something deep and intro- of slow orchestral arrangements, ‘50s style whitewash of ‘Ráfandi’ and ‘Pillubox’ will give in their performance they almost sound as if Thankfully. spective, this probably isn’t the thing for you, harmonies, quaint Andy Williams style you goosebumps, and the haughty, insidious they were meant to play together. Even though While Christmas songs remain incredibly however it’s a pretty original sound that these crooned lyrics about snow, and images of aw- stop-start charm of ‘Fylkingar’ and ‘Heilræði’ the atmosphere of a live show is rarely proper- annoying, at least Baggalútur are doing some- guys have. So if you want to broaden your ho- ful jumpers, Advocaat poisoning and radioac- is very satisfying, but they are highlights on ly conveyed on plastic, Alpanon at least suc- thing different here, and going into this album rizons or brighten up your day with something tive turkey come at you like a torrent of slow something that could have been a lot better. ceeds in delivering some of the force, which is feeling pretty cynical I did actually manage to zesty, Kimbawe is the way to go. moving cheese. The sound is interesting on all of it, though, no mean feat. The DVD is also good, cleanly crack a smile a few times. This one is therefore - Bergrún Anna Now, normally I wouldn’t be doing with with thin, urgent drums and ripping, lo-fi lead shot and edited, giving a decent overview of OK, and maybe even a good ironic gift for a Hallsteinsdóttir this sort of nonsense, but I’m giving this a guitars paddling furiously to keep the low- the evening. If you want to listen to something Christmas album hater. higher mark than it deserves for three rea- bottom bass and quietly desperate vocals you like done a bit differently, give ‘Alpanon’ a - Bergrún Anna sons. Firstly, the opening track ‘Jólastjarnan’ afloat, and ‘Gæludýr’, thankfully, sounds quite go. distinct from the first three albums (there Hallsteinsdóttir uses a Scott Walker tune that has a more - Bergrún Anna was a time when demos for an unreleased ambitious arrangement, thus managing to Hallsteinsdóttir transcend the kitsch. It is the best track of would-be fourth effort, ‘Parkaboy’, were float- the album. Second, the closing track ‘Nýár- ing around, sounding miserably akin to bad smorgunn’ actually creates a nice sombre feel B-sides from their eponymous third album). pretty much akin to New Year’s Day itself. And Only when they try a little too hard to please three: err... its Christmas? (‘Læðumst’, ‘Mittisband’) do Ensími fail on -Bob Cluness this unfortunately discordant album, and all of it bears repeat listening. - Sindri Eldon

Okay, I know how this is gonna sound, but “Clever” title notwithstanding, A Long Time I’m sorry, Friðrik Dór just isn’t black enough Listening is not quite diverse enough to make to pull this shit off. I’m sorry, there’s simply no up for its lengthy running time (it’s a fucking other word for it… I mean, this is a fine pop hour long), but its careful sonic innovation album, all things considered; ‘Leyfðu Mér’ brilliantly showcases that rock music played and ‘Hún Er Alveg Með’etta’ are remarkably by educated musicians doesn’t have to be Prófessorinn og Memfismafían strong, and the raucous party stomp of ‘Til Í boring and pointless; in fact, it can be en- Allt’ is damn near irresistible, but there’s just ergetic, emotional and fiercely pointed, and Diskóeyjan not enough soul, not enough sass and sure as although it’s a bit too intellectual to impart hell not enough mojo to make this good R&B. anything specific, you never can quite shake memfismafian The production is somewhat lacking, as well: the fact that there’s a message somewhere in A kids’ album with a twist excessive compression squeezes what soul that fucking hour, rather like the fact that this there was to be had out of everything, and the sentence is 119 words long and is desperately Friðrik Dór synths are startlingly uniform, like they just Agent Fresco trying to tell you something, but can’t quite picked one preset and ran with it through the decide what it is, even though it takes a fuck- A sort of children’s story with songs, Diskóey- Allt Sem Þú Átt whole album. Also, you need to know how to A Long Time Listening ing hour to say it. jan tells the tale of two kids, Daníel and Rut, sing to do this. I mean, sure, Friðrik can sing, - Sindri Eldon who are sent to Diskóeyjan (“disco island”) fridrikdormusic in a reality TV, SingStar-topscoring kind-of- agentfresco to learn how to be cool. The music is funky, Kill whitey way, but to pull this off you need to really, re- BL: It’s a fucking hour long (but disco naturally plays a part, and the story is ally know how to sing, sing with a conviction original to say the least. The album calls on a strong enough to bite through the crushing really, really good). whole range of well-known Reykjavík musi- weight of all that autotune and all that com- cians who lend their talent to the story/album, pression… oh well. Who knows, maybe Friðrik but the main force behind it is Baggalútur will ‘blacken’ with time… I mean, look at Jus- member Bragi Valdimar Skúlason, who uses tin Timberlake. his skills as both a comedian and musician to - Sindri Eldon good effect here. Overall the album is a good one for the kids that, as an added bonus, par- ents will probably find quite amusing, too. - Bergrún Anna Hallsteinsdóttir Treasure chest

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