Baltasar Kormákur: ´s hottest answer to Hollywood

is in the air

Swimming in the Atlantic Ocean Yes people really do that!

Baltasar Kormákur: Iceland´s hottest answer to Hollywood “If you do things well and in a professional way they will arouse interest”

What´s cooking? Christmas the Icelandic way Look out! Gunnar Nelson is our new fighting champion

Cool gossip What were the A-listers doing in Iceland last summer? w o w i s n the ai r Issue one 2012 DAT APP!

Issue one 2012 This magazine is really expensive Your free copy / take me with you but you get it for free. Special prize, only for you my friend! Tax & Duty Free Experience Iceland All of our shops and restaurants offer you Icelandic memories to take home with you. ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 62154 12/12 ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 62154 12/12

One of few airports in the world that is both tax and duty free — meaning up to 20% off city prices. Tax & Duty Free Experience Iceland All of our shops and restaurants offer you Icelandic memories to take home with you. ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 62154 12/12 ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 62154 12/12

One of few airports in the world that is both tax and duty free — meaning up to 20% off city prices. WOW! This magazine is just brimming over with good stuff! I really wasn’t supposed to, as WOW air CEO got all the space but I just couldn’t resist. So here I am, abusing my position on the contents page. This magazine has been my sole project for many weeks and I have become kind of fond of it. I hereby present to you the first issue of WOW Magazine, titled “WOW is in the air” (next time it will be something completely different). Take a look at all this stuff and enjoy your trip to or from Iceland.

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief

In this issue WOW Magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir 6 A letter from the CEO 42 Jumping the fence the first Icelander to com- Skúli Mogensen really hopes Movie director and produc- pete in the esteemed Ulti- Design and layout: Ib you’ll enjoy your flight. er, Baltasar Kormákur makes mate Fighting Champion- Contributing editors: Erna Hreinsdóttir, Jón Kristinn his movies on both sides ship, UFC. Snæhólm, Dísa Bjarnadóttir, Kristín Ýr Gunnarsdóttir, 8 “I have had the whole of the Atlantic but says Ice- Björn Teitsson, Benedikt Bóas Hinriksson, Hrund world as an arena” land is the core of his cre- 72 The sea is our second Þórsdóttir, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir, Steingerður Max Dager, director of the ativity. Baltasar is the latest home Steinarsdóttir, Halldóra Anna Hagalín Nordic House tells us about WOW Star. Two of our brave journalists this remarkable cultural recently took a dive in the Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman center and his surprising past. 48 The golden boy Atlantic Ocean. Learn about Goldsmith Kristján Eyjólfs- their first hand experience Translator: Júlíana Björnsdóttir 10 Good to know son´s creations are literally fit with the freezing waters and This and that about things in for a queen. why no one thinks they’re In-house photographers: Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir, general. crazy. Kristinn Magnússon, Ernir Eyjólfsson, Myriam Marti 50 Crazy for Kria 14 What’s going on? Jóhanna Methúsalems- 76 Ready, set, go! Sales and marketing manager: Árni Þór Árnason Iceland is happening and dóttir´s jewelry designs If you wish to see Iceland in here are the highlights for reflect Icelandic nature and a different light, try taking Advertising reps.: Árni Þór Árnason, Magna Sveins- the next couple of months. history. part in the WOW Cyclothon. dóttir, Ingvar Örn Arnarson Race around Iceland in 72 16 Icelandic Christmas 53 The momentum of hours or less and raise © Birtíngur Publishing traditions Icelandic literature money for a good cause Lyngás 17 Did you know Icelanders After reading this, you’ll while enjoying the view. 210 Garðabær have 13 days of Christmas want to do some more Iceland and 13 Santas? This article reading. 78 What the person next to tells it all. you is really doing! Tel: 00 354 515 5500 56 A trip to remember Find out why the person 20 How to cook a traditional We got designer Ingibjörg next to you is acting Icelandic Christmas meal? Hanna Bjarnadóttir to tell us strangely and why you Printing Tried and tested recipe for about her favorite souvenir. should act the same. Oddi environmentally certified printing company hangikjöt (smoked lamb) All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or from Icelands leading culi- 58 Good ideas from Iceland recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit nary magazine. 80 Anything is possible for a from publisher. See companys legal protection and 60 You don’t have to be smiling bulldozer rates at www.birtingur.is. 22 Imagine Peace a sell out Andrea Sóleyjar og Björg-­ ERFISM vinsdóttir is truly a person of HV ER How did Yoko Onos 50 year Sigtryggur Baldursson, a M K U I old idea become a reality in former member of The WOW. Reykjavík? Sugarcubes, recently took Prentun: Oddi umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja 141 776 over as manager of Iceland 82 All about Berlin 26 A feast for all the senses Music Export. He now uses We bring you …. BERLIN. PRENTGRIPUR The Vatnajökull Region his extensive social network Read about recommended covers the area of South- for the benefit of aspiring restaurants, shops, sights, east Iceland and is truly the Icelandic musicians. trips and more. photographers paradise. Plus: We had a little talk with Plus: A firsthand experience renowned band Hjaltalín of a poor Icelandic student 28 Capturing nature’s and recommend some good in Berlin and a fraction of is in the air big show music. the . Olgeir Andresson has gathered attention world 64 Dat app! 90 Where to next? wide for his stunning photo- We present the app that Take a look at these WOW graphs of the Northern gets you around town. Find worthy destinations and Lights. out how to hail a cab plan your next trip. without speaking a word of 32 What’s that smell? Icelandic, with the iTaxi app. 94 Environmental emphasis Find out everything about in the air the ancient midwinter festi- 66 The WOW Stars Find out how Airbus makes val of Thorri and Thorri food. We are proud to present the world go round in a new WOW Stars Annie Mist and improved way. 36 The First Lady’s fashion Þórisdóttir and Jón Margeir The elegant and beautiful Sverrisson who both set 96 Good to know Dorrit Moussaieff dresses to world records in 2012. More about this and that. impress at every occasion. 68 There’s a new superhero 98 A flying star 40 Cool gossip in town We subjected pop sensation Read all about the Holly- Gunnar Nelson is a Þórunn Antonía to “The wood crowd that visited professional martial artist in traveling inquisition.” See her Iceland last summer. a league of his own. He is confessions.

4 ı WOW is in the air BE WARM BE WELL

Icewear Þingholtsstræti 2-4 Suðurhrauni 12c Víkurprjón 101 Reykjavík 210 Garðabær Austurvegi 21, 870 Vík Tel.: +354 561 9619 Tel.: +354 555 7400 Tel.: +354 487 1250 www.icewear.is Dear guest, welcome aboard WOW air!

want to start with a huge thank you for the fantastic reception we‘ve received from all our guests since we made our maiden flight to Paris on the 31st of May 2012. This marked the beginning of a great journ­­­ey that continues to evolve as we acquired IIce­land Express on the 23rd of October to create the lead­­­ing low cost carrier in Iceland. As a result WOW air now offers much greater fre­ quency to London and Copenhagen as well as many new and exciting destinations and starting next summ­ er we will be flying to a total of 15 destinations across Europe. Our goal for 2013 is to bring over 400,000 guests to and from Iceland. To achieve this we will con­tinue to offer the lowest prices to and from Iceland along with our signature friendly and fun service!

I am also very proud of our on time track record where WOW air and Iceland Express have had the best performance since June 2012. We expect this superb performance to continue as we have now secured four new Airbus A320 aircrafts, models 2005-2010 to furt­ her enhance our service and your safe and enjoyable journey. Very importantly these new aircrafts will signi­ ficanty reduce our fuel burn and carbon emissions. While WOW air is still a young company we have assembled a very enthusiastic and experienced team that I am very proud of and I hope you will experience firsthand on your flight today.

Thank you once again for choosing WOW air. We really do appreciate it.

Skúli Mogensen WOW air CEO and founder

6 ı WOW is in the air Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

The JS Watch co. Watch factory and exclusive retail shop located at Laugavegur 62, in the trendy “101” area of Reykjavik provides customers with unique opportunity to meet the watchmakers who assemble and test their timepiece.

The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel. www.jswatch.com Promotion “I have had the whole world as an arena” It rises like small hill with a massive purple cliff on top; the Nordic House in Reykjavik is a beautifully designed landmark. More than that however, it is a welcoming cultural center, filled with life and interesting projects. The current director is Max Dager, a Swede with a remarkable past and a genuine love for Iceland.

By Steingerður Steinarsdóttir Photos: Bragi Jósefsson

Standing alone in the middle of Icelanders in touch with what ing of each circus show,” says we were there within the time a marshland just off the center is going on in other Nordic Max with a grin, “and one of limit. We were also working of Reykjavík the light from the countries but in later years in the founders of Circus Cirkör, a towards performing in Las Vegas windows of the Nordic House greater measure to introduce contemporary circus. Many have but unfortunately that did not light up the deep darkness of art and culture from all parts of heard of Cirque du Soleil and we come about. I learned a lot from the Icelandic winter months. Max the world. Recently, we had an were a similar group. It was one my experience there and I’ve Dager has just arrived at work exhibition of Japanese art and of the fastest growing projects brought those lessons with me and he begins by pointing out next year a Yakutian Art Festival I have worked on. It started in a to Iceland.” the singularity of his workplace. is planned. Now that we have small cellar room in Stockholm “This is the only international become more diverse, it could by a small group of enthusiasts You have also been a part of a institution in Iceland in the be said that we are a link to and grew to be a company with puppet theatre. Could you tell sense that many governments the world through the Nordic 400 employees. We were reach­ us about that adventure? stand behind it. It is important countries.” ing for the stars and claimed we “I had been working with the in a small country to maintain a Max Dager has a performing would perform at the Stockholm Vietnamese Ministry of Culture. certain independence and I be­ arts background and there are Globe Arena within 3 years from When Ho Chi Minh took over lieve that we achieve it by being some very interesting projects founding, and we did. North Vietnam he wanted to international.” that he worked on in the past. “The Globe Arena [also known preserve the very old pup­ Before he took over the director­ as Ericsson Globe] is the largest petry tradition. In the rice fields What is the main role of the ship of the Nordic House he was venue in Sweden with a main men would attach puppets to Nordic House? a circus director. hall that seats 15,000 people. bamboo sticks and stand chest “To inspire and connect. It has “Yes, I was the man in the top Admittedly we performed in high in water manipulating them. of course always meant to keep hat that comes out at the beginn­ an annex of the main hall but The spectators could not see

The Nordic House was designed by acclaimed Finnish architect Alvar Aalto.

8 ı WOW is in the air the puppet masters hidden from more toward that. The majority “This is the only international institution in Iceland in sight by the rice plants and this of voters, however, wanted to the sense that many governments stand behind it. It was a method of conveying join so we worked with that of news from the palace and court course. is important in a small country to maintain a certain to the public. Ho Chi Minh creat­ “The Nordic countries are independence and I believe that we achieve it by ed a theater to preserve this connected. The scales that are being international.” cultural heritage and I worked used to measure the happiness with it, traveling all over the and welfare of nations have the The water runs from Öskjuhlid, rant, Dill is an excellent example world with their performances. Nordic nations always among the highest point in Reykjavik, of the new Nordic cuis­ine known You could say that the whole the top ten. I wanted to show down here and into the pond world over for fresh ingredients world has been my arena. After how much life and creativity in the city center. We wanted to and the innovative use of them working with this unique water there is in the North. I was also make the children aware of the and the view from the restau­ puppet theater I was offered interested in enlivening the Nor­ constant cycle in nature. rant’s windows over the marsh­ an honorary membership of dic House and do a little circus “We dug ditches and took an lands create the sense that one the Union Internationale de la here. This is the best job for me.” active part in maintaining the is far removed from the hustle Marionettes.”­ bird conservation habitat. This and bustle of the city. ­Currently Part of the functions of the Nor- year the Arctic Tern came back an exhibition of Sámi art is hang­ What kindled your interest in dic House has always involved and laid eggs in the marsh for ing on the walls and upcoming taking over the directorship of children. Is that true under your the first time in years. She of are concerts, children’s plays the Nordic House in Reykjavík? directorship as well? course is a soldier who protects and other performances. This “I already had a long relation­ “Yes, we have a lot of internal the other birds with her fierce is an interesting place to visit ship with Iceland through my projects focused on children attacks if someone approaches and most of the events can be wife who is Icelandic and my and youth. We try and inspire her nest. It was very lively this enjoyed free of charge. One appointment was odd in the fantasy and knowledge. There summer around the house with should not overlook it while sense that I was already living in are better museums in Iceland, birds, children and interested staying in Reykjavík. Iceland. They prefer that the di­ better theaters, better concert spectators flocking in. During rector comes from abroad, fresh halls but no one has the same the Expermentarium the children on the scene, so to speak. Also I urban environment as we do. took measurements and worked had always, like so many others, We had an Experimentarium or with scientific methods to get to been amazed by the creativity of Science Fair involving water. All know water and the life it entails Icelanders. I also believe in the children of Iceland took part in better.” idea of cooperation between the this project and we would like Although the Nordic House is Nordic countries. to continue it if we get funding. continually bustling with activity “When the referendum on We went out to the countryside it is, in the mind of many Iceland­ Sweden joining the European letting children there take part ers a haven of quiet reflection. Union came about I voted in experiments and scientific The library is stacked with books against it because I wanted a research. The Nordic House and the meeting hall is an inti­ stronger union between the Nor­ is situated in a marshland and mate place to gather and listen Max Dager and Dill head chef dic countries and was leaning this is a bird conservation area. to music or lectures. The restau­ Gunnar Karl.

Issue 1 ı 9 This and that

Book yourself!

ecently Icelanders literacy amongst young in his reading that he is have had to wake people. Illiteracy is not running late. Átakið er styrkt af Rup to the reality only an issue in Iceland The posters will be that about a quarter of since all over the world distributed in schools, Icelandic children can’t reading has decreased. swimming pools sports read fluently in their The group therefore and recreational halls, own language. WOW air began with the idea of and wherever young wanted to do something finding a way to increase people gather. Youths are about this and when the reading of all kinds of also encouraged to send they were contacted by text in particular among in a picture of them­ selves’­ author Þorgrímur Þrá­ the young. They photo­ reading their favorite insson­ the ball literally graphed the Icelandic book. started­­ rolling. They got icons in all kinds of fun To bolster the fun even in touch with soccer situations always holding further, a prize will be giv­ play­­ers, Gylfi Sigurðsson books and presumably en out to several people and Kolbeinn Sigþórs­ absorbed in reading that rise to the challenge son and asked them to them. These photos were and send in a photo. assist. Erling Aðalsteins­ turned into posters that Five individuals will get son, photographer was are diverse and amusing. a signed book from Þor­ already on board as well They are on display for grímur Þráinsson and in as the advertizing agency, viewing on the website: January one participant Brandenburg. Recently www.facebook.com/ will be selected randomly singer and bokaduthig.­­ Among them from the group and that Jón Jónsson was added is one picture of the soc­ lucky person will receive to this group of talents. cer players preparing for an airline ticket for two to Together this awesome a national football match a WOW air destination of team wants to promote and one is so engrossed their choosing. Lestur er í góðu lagi life and travel in Iceland. Pink Iceland Íslenskir strákar lesa alltof lítið. Það er óásættanlegt. Bækur eru skemmtilegar, heillandi, fræðandiworks og það er for and with the LGBT (Lesbian, Play it pink til meira en nóg af þeim fyrir alla. Ekki dragast aftur úr í lestrinum. Takið ykkur á strákar – bókið ykkur! Gay, Bisexual & Transgender) com­ Pink Iceland, this year’s recipient of munity and specializes in day tours, the prestigious Innovation in Tourism weddings, international and domestic Awards, was founded by lesbian events and festivals as well as orga­ couple Eva María & Birna in March nizing tailor-made luxury travel. See 2011. In early 2012 they joined forces more about Pink events on page 14. with their friend Hannes and the trio now owns and runs the company “Pink Iceland, this year’s recip­ together with love. This is Iceland’s ient of the prestigious Innova­ first and foremost gay owned and tion in Tourism Awards, was operated travel expert and your first founded by lesbian couple Eva stop for all matters relating to LGBT María & Birna in March 2011.” Photo: Leifur Wilberg Orrason. ATV ADVENTURES ICELAND BY THE BLUE LAGOON Free pick-up at the Blue Lagoon Pick-up at your hotel four times a day

Gaga loves Gnarr The Lennon Ono Grant for Peace was awarded to Lady Gaga (amongst others) at Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavík on October 9th. Among the attendees was Reykjavík Mayor, Jón Gnarr, who www.facebook.com/atvtours dressed up as Obi Wan Kenobi Instagram: @atvadventures to mark the day. He also gave a short but hearted speech that moved Gaga, who in her own speech thanked him and declared that he should be cloned. Lady Gaga´s grant will go to Elton­ John´s AIDS foundation. www.lavatours.is +354-857-3001 [email protected] Tangasund 1, 240 Grindavík

10 ı WOW is in the air Iceland delivered www.istex.is id you accidentally fall in love with Icelandic sweets? Or did you already know how delicious they are and this trip Dwas really just an excuse to get more? Well your next trip can truly be about the wonders of Iceland or meeting your family, Warm thoughts now that you know about nammi.is. This site has everything Ice­ landic, the candy, the music, the movies, the wool and even the Every moment with your loved ones is invaluable. Don’t let it slip away. Enjoy it to the fullest. brennivín. You can have it delivered to your front door and enjoy You only live once… Iceland in the comfort of your home anywhere in the world. We hope you’ll still come back though.

Uncommon knowledge ome exaggerations are so persistent Their language is also very complicated they become “common knowledge”, so this claim is hard to refute. The fact is including the claim that the Inuit though, that the 100 words for snow theory Shave over 100 different words for is utter nonsense. Inuits actually have only snow. This so-called fact can be traced to two words for snow; “quanik” for snow in the linguistic expert and anthropologist Franz air, and “aput” for snow on the ground. Boas who in “The Handbook of North Amer­ The Icelandic language has at least 40 ican Indians” (1911) talks about four different words for snow. And why shouldn´t it? We’re words. A well known article by Benjamin al­­ways talking about the weather! The easi­ Whorf raised that number up to seven and est and most common is “snjór” (snow) and from there it went onwards and upwards un­ “ís” (ice). From there it gets more complicat­ til, in the 1970s the number was around 50. ed with words like: bylur, drífa, fönn, hagl, hríð, The New York Times then stated that there mugga, ís, kafald, krap, krapís, mjöll, púður, were 100 words in 1984. skafrenningur, slydda, slabb, föl etc. etc. The claim for 100 words for snow is certainly not preposterous. The Inuit certainly have WOW Challenge: Try saying all of these a lot of snow. Wisely, one could deduce words over and over as fast as you can. that they had many words to differentiate For extra points: Do it while standing bare- between different kinds and forms of snow. foot in a snowstorm.

What a debut!

e can certainly a debut artist in Iceland ever interest in his music from recommend the and less than three months abroad. The music can best debut album after the release of the album be described as a fascinating Wof 20 years old it has already reached platin­ mix of folk and electronica singer-songwriter Ásgeir um sales. With his splendid where Ásgeir Trausti’s high Trausti that is making waves vocals and melodic tunes and beautiful voice and vocal these days. The album, titled Ásgeir Trausti, who sings in harmony play a key part. Dýrð í dauðaþögn (roughly Icelandic, also seems to be We hope Ásgeir Trausti will translated: Glory in total melting any language barr­ keep on being glorious but silence), is the best start for ier existing with a growing never silent.

Issue 1 ı 11 This and that

The local time The collaboration of a watchmaker, collector and designer has produced Iceland’s, JS Watch Company Reykjavik, one of the world’s smallest manufacturers of stylish and exceptional­ time­ pieces that promise to put the country on the map for some­ thing other than hot springs, Bjork and disruptive volcanoes. At JS Watch Company Reykjavik all the watches are design­ ed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used in production and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel. Among fans of the JS Watch Company are Viggo Mortensen, Quentin Tarantino, Yoko Ono and his holiness 14th Dalai Lama to name a few. In fact, the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy is so high that the company is now the official supplier of watches for the Icelandic Coast Guard. The JS Watch company Watch factory and exclusive retail shop is located at Laugavegur 62, in Reykjavik’s trendy “101” area. It provides customers with the unique opportunity of meeting the watchmakers who assemble and test their time­ piece. Quality control is administrated by Master Watchmaker Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, one of Iceland’s best known watch­ maker who has more than 40 years of experience.

Uncommon knowledge ome exaggerations are so persistent they become “common knowledge”, including the claim that chameleons will always adapt their colors to their Senvironment to become invisible. This is a big misunderstanding. It is true that chameleons in certain areas have adapted their colors to their environments to be better concealed. But if you take a chameleon from the desert and put it in the rainforest it will not turn green in an instant. As far as we know most chameleons can change their color. They have a myriad of specialized cells called chromatophor­ es, which contain pigments in their cytoplasm, in three layers below their transparent outer skin. When a chameleon chang­ es its color it might be because of the temperature but it is most likely making some kind of a social signal, reacting to a stressful situation. A color change signals a certain physiolog­ ical condition and intentions to other chameleons. For exam­ ple chameleons tend to show darker colors when angered or when attempting to scare or intimidate others. Color also has a big part in the mating of chameleons. But no, if you put a purple backdrop behind a chameleon it will not suddenly turn purple.

March on You are warmly welcome to Design- March, Reykjavík, 14.–17.03.2013. Held every year in March in Reykjavik, Iceland, DesignMarch is Iceland’s most important design event. For four days, Reykjavik plays host to hundreds of openings, exhibitions, workshops and events, spreading across the city from the harbour to the lava fields surrounding it. Starting with a day of international Design Talks, the festival showcases the best local creative scene, ranging from archi­ tecture to fashion, fonts, furniture and food design. For more information visit www. designmarch.is.

12 ı WOW is in the air Organic and raw Organic Lífstíll is a family owned company specializing in delicious raw deserts along with other organic goodies. Their products are certified organic and contain good proteins, complex carbohydrates, chlorella, spirulina and lots and lots of vitamins and nutrients. The recipes were developed and tested by the family who owns Party with the the company and we can certainly locals recommend their cakes. Look around when you visit the supermarket. You Why visit Iceland if you’re not plann­ might be lucky enough to find these ing on going “all in”? Reykjavík Rocks raw delights. is without a doubt one of the most fun enterprises in Iceland. Their staff specializes in showing travelers a good time while taking in the Reykja­ vík night life, giving them a chance to party with the locals and getting a Perving it up VIP service. The Food Pervert is a fun collaboration­ blog between Reykjavík Rocks provides an a-z two self proclaimed­ Icelandic Food Perverts that have service, all from arranging amazing a deep passion for all things edible and its presenta­ trips into the Icelandic nature, plann­ tion which they try to reflect on their site. ing helicopter trips around Iceland, Their blog, written in English, focuses mainly on guiding you into the most mainstream restaurant crit­iques in Iceland and recipes that Icelandic nightclubs or simply taking they make themselves either from ground up or you shopping and introducing you to by tweaking other well known recipes. The Food Iceland´s unique fashion design. This Perverts do not use profess­ional camera equipment is the surely the best way to get the but instead rely on mobile photo­graphy and of most out of your stay in Iceland. course you can also follow them on instagram (@ For more information visit thefoodperv) and facebook (search for “foodperv”). www.reykjavikrocks.is The blog can be found at www.thefoodperv.com.

Issue 1 ı 13 Heeeeyyyy... Corelli, with the highlight being a premier of a violin concert from the 18th century, now attributed to “Anonymous” but possibly by What´s Vivaldi. going on? Iceland is happening – so happening, actually that we wouldn´t even have room for every event if we used the whole magazine to cover it. Here are the highlights for the next couple of months. And don´t forget the nu- merous pubs that offer live music every weekend, the art galleries that always have a show going, the movie theaters (we use subtitles not Icelandic voice-overs) and the restaurants that offer great food day and night. For something unique Eivør Pálsdóttir is from the Looking for some The best package deal Faroe Islands. When she began good times? you’ll ever get singing and performing here Try the “Reykjavík Appy Hour” See the some of the best Iceland­ Icelanders fell in love with her; app. This app informs you of ic bands and artists at the Hátt her songs, her style and her every happy hour at Reykjavík’s í Höllinni (literally: Loud at the personal interpretations through bars. A little bird told us that Palace) concert held on the 19th music. Find out why - on the the creators were enthusiastic of December at Laugardagshöll. 6th of February at Salurinn, barflies and visited each place This is a true festival of music, Kópavogur or on the 7th in Hof, regularly to see if an “Appy featuring reggae band Hjálmar, Akureyri. Hour” was really … Appening. newly debuted singer and song­ The app is free for Android and writer Ásgeir Trausti (his album is Low key but still iPhone users. the best selling album of all time spectacular on www.tonlist.is / www.icelan­ Singer Paul Oscar and pianist, dicmusic.com), Valdimar, Moses singer and songwriter Jón Hightower and Kiryama Family Ólafsson, really get the feel of all of whom have had great their audience while they chit success. If you are only going to chat at the grand piano. These one concert how about this one two have an impeccable taste where you can see them all. for music and are now back, due to popular demand. Catch them on the 17th or 24th of January at Salurinn, Kópavogur. If life was a musical Have you ever wondered what

that would be like? Well you Photo: Leifur Wilberg Orrason. could get a glimpse at this lively performance February Pink December and Are you more into 1st at Salurinn, Kópavogur or Rainbow Reykjavík classic? February 15th in Hof, Akureyri. Festivals He´s probably sold Why not enjoy the festive tunes Four talented performers take Pink Iceland organizes and op­ out but... of the Reykjavík Chamber on a number of tunes by the old erates two LGBT festivals during Mika is playing in Harpa Concert Orchestra at Harpa on the 19th musical maestros, Gershwin, the winter. “Pink December is a Hall on the 18th of December. of December? Their Christmas Sondheim, Andrew Lloyd Web­ concept we’re trying out for the Known for his amazing stage concert will feature the lovely ber, Cole Porter and Rodgers & first time this year,” Eva María, performance this artist is truly an music of Bach, Marcello and Hammerstein to name a few. one of the owners of Pink Ice­ act worth watching. See if there land, explains. “We are organ­ are any tickets left at www.midi. izing a series of events, big is and www.harpa.is. and small, for every single day in December, giving people the Do the salsa freedom to come whenever suits Every Thursday night at 20:00 them and plug into whatever is Thorvaldsen bar in downtown Reykjavík gets a little bit hotter when teachers and salsa enthu­ siasts from Salsa Iceland visit for If you love Sónar an evening of steamy dancing. Reykjavík we have You don´t have to know anything about salsa, just go there and let good news – them show you how it’s done. A WOW air is flying to dancing partner is also optional. Barce­lona in June, They have seasoned dancers (taxis) in stock just waiting to just in time for move you around the floor. The Sónar Barcelona. best part … it’s free!

14 ı WOW is in the air going on that day. These include guided tours, museum and those who truly seek gallery visits, a dip in Reykjavik’s it by those perform- geothermal pools, shopping, live ing it and showing music, fantastic food, meeting that it´s not always the largest stage locals, partying, visiting natural and the biggest wonders and hunting for the crowd that matters Northern Lights. but it’s also about The other festival is Rainbow the unique relation- Reykjavík in early February. The ships that form and program offers a great mixture the memories for all of nature, activities, culture, involved. cuisine, music and nightlife. The Sónar Reykjavik cherry on top of this year’s festi­ takes place on four val will be the amazing Rainbow stages with the total Reykjavik Concert planned for capacity of 3500 Friday, February 1st. It’s the night guests. Beside the before the Eurovision finals in Leaving Iceland? Come back in two main stages a Iceland and Pink Iceland has February for Sónar Reykjavik part of the concert already booked two of Iceland’s halls underground hottest Eurovision stars, Paul parking will be chang­ nd if you where it takes place. ed in to a nightclub ­Oscar and Hera Björk to head­ already live In previous years, it were local and line the concert. Let’s laugh Ahere - Stay! has travelled to Lon- inter­­national DJ´s will For more information visit Let´s talk Iceland is a histori­ Són­­ar is the Inter­­ don, Frankfurt, Seoul perform during the www.pinkiceland.is. cal comedy show performed national­ Festival of and Buenos Aires, festival. A scenic part every night at 20:00 in English Advanced Music and among many other of the concert house Still looking for the at Víkingakráin (The Viking’s New Media Art, cre- destinations around will also be changed ated in 1994 and held the world. classics? Hall) in Hafnarstræti, Reykjavík. into a stage. in Barcelona for three Sónar Reykjavik is Salurinn Concert Hall in Kópa­ This show tells you all you need The line-up will vogur will be the host to a Men­ days every June. going to portray how include around 15 to know about the history of The festival has a prestige brand delssohn Festival from February Iceland and Icelanders from its international acts, regularly­ travelled can redefine itself including DJ´s, and 8 until February 10. During these settlement until the present day. beyond Spain’s front­ in smaller locations some 30 Icelandic concerts, musicians will play all You will meet Vikings from iers since 2002, with and venues. The of Mendelssohn’s work in their bands and DJ´s. the past, heroes of the nation events in various new concert house, To drop but a few correct time order. Did you know and everyday people. Go places around the Harpa, and the joy names: James Blake, Mendelssohn wrote his first on an unforgettable journey world, adapting the of music will be in Squarepusher, Mode­ piece when he was 11 years old? with them through the history Sonar philosophy stark contrast to the selektor, GusGus, of Iceland and discuss the to unique venues Icelandic winter and Retro Stefson and strange people living there, and environments, the arctic darkness Alvo Noto & Ryuichi namely the Icelanders. You will highlighting the most outside. Sónar Sakamoto. For more participate in historical events, interesting home- Reykjavik is also an information visit www. reenacted by The Vikings. And grown talent and experiment in how sonarreykjavik.com if something’s not clear, just the scene in the city music can reach interrupt and ask them. Check out available tickets and other events online: For more information visit www. www.midi.is – They have tickets to every major event in Iceland, including movie theaters. www.harpa.is – Harpa Music and Conference Hall’s official site. letstalk.is, email to letstalk@lets­ www.menningarhus.is – Hof Culture and Conference Hall in Akureyri - official site. talk.is or call 00354 777 5500. www.visitreykjavik.is – See what’s on in Reykjavík. www.salurinn.is

Explore the dancing How about something dark and heavy? Northern lights Have you ever heard the songs of the Vikings? Well we kind of all around Iceland haven’t either, seeing as those where the winter days are long gone by. How­ ever we have heard the melodic nights are magical ­Viking or Old Norse inspired tunes of metal band Skálmöld as with FOSSHOTEL have most everyone in Iceland. Their music truly transcends generations and genders. If you travel to North Iceland you could catch their show on February 2 in Hof, Akureyri or in Reykjavík on the 9th. Beware this will not be your average, sweaty and chaotic heavy metal concert. Guests will be seated in comfortable seats where they can truly enjoy the magic of Skálmöld. Good luck getting tickets. Try midi.is or menn­ all around Iceland ingarhus.is.

Issue 1 ı 15 The 13 julelads

The 13 Icelandic Yule Lads are all sons of a troll couplee called Grýla and Leppa­­lúði who are known for their taste for naughty children. For many years these Yule Lads were not wel­ come guests in the Icelandic household, they would steal food and candles, make noise and gener­ally be a nuisance for every­body. Over Icelandic the years they have changed a lot and are rumored to have taken a liking to the red and white costume of their colleagues over­­­seas as Christmas well as their generosity. One by one the Yule Lads come to town and put little toys, cloth­es and other trinkets in the traditions shoes of well behaved children but the naughty ones can ex­­pect a potato. The last Yule Lad arrives­­ on the eve of the 23rd of December and Every country has its own Christmas traditions and Iceland is no then the Yule Lads start leav­­ ing­­ as they came, one by one, until the 6th of January,­­ generally­­­ different, but of course it is different! Wanting to do better than called “The thirteenth”. everybody else Icelanders have 13 days of Christmas instead of the usual 12, or maybe 26 would be more accurate since it is 13 The fragrance of Christmas days before and after Christmas Eve, starting with the arrival of Some say every day before Christ­­mas has its Stekkjastaur the first “Santa Claus”, or more accurately Yule Lad, own aroma. Mostly they mean cookies, apples, on the eve of December 11th. orang­­ es,­ mandarins, cloves and cinnamon­­ but there are others,­ for example­ the infam­­ ous­­ By Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir smell of rotten rays tra­­diti­onally served on the Photos: Eyjólfur Már Thoroddsen and Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir. 23rd of Decem­ber. Those who serve this rotten delicacy at their home often boil a full cauldron of Hangi­kjöt (smoked lamb) later that day to get rid of the smell of ray. Even if they don´t serve rays most people boil hangikjöt at some time or another during the holiday season, we have even heard of vege­­tarians boiling the meat just to get the right aroma for their home and that Christmas spirit that follows.

Entertainment

Before Christmas there is no shortage­­ of Christ­ mas concerts,­­­ bazaars, seasonal plays and other events designed to bring people­­ the spirit of Christmas and nourish the soul. The Holidays are a season of family gatherings in Iceland. Some families have rigorous traditions regard­ ing their get-togethers but others keep it more casual. On Christmas Eve day fa­m­­ilies stay home for the most part, tidy up the house, deco­­rate their tree and cook their lavish Christ­­­mas meals, most commonly­ Hangikjöt,­­­­­ smoked rack of pork, ptar­­mi­g­­ans, whole goose or fresh lamb. After the meal comes the Christmas pudd­­­­­ing which usu­­­ally is made from rice and milk and contains one almond, generally­ referred to as “The Al­­mond”. Whoever gets the almond wins one extra present. After the meal the family sits together to open pre­­­­sents. Christmas day is also reserved for the family and more often than not they come together for an afternoon family­­ party. These parties­­­ are not exclusively­­­­ held on Christ­­mas day but can also occur in the following days.

New Year´s Eve

As parties go there is probably no bigger party than New Year´s Eve in Iceland. Icelanders go all out in food, drinks and fireworks. Some keep their parties in the family but others The Christmas Exhibition at Arbaer Museum has been very popular in recent years, and become an in­­vite their friends for a night of partying and established feature of the festive season in Reykjavík.

16 ı WOW is in the air Fireworks are an essential part watching fireworks. After dinner many to go to of the Icelandic New Year’s Eve. a New Year´s Eve bonfire (most start around In estimation over 600 tons of fireworks are blown up at the end 8:00-8:30 PM) where people meet, greet, sing of the year. Perlan (The Pearl), and and shoot up a few fireworks. Bonfires are held the area around it, is an ideal spot in every town in Iceland and in Reykjavík there to witness this spectacle and the are several bonfires. restaurant at the top of the dome In most houses the TV will play a great roll is open on New Year’s Eve. all through the day albeit mostly in the back­ ground. Politic­­­­ ia­ ns­ get to shine during the daytime on var­­ious talk shows and around dinn­er there are news chron­­­icles from the year. This all ends with the annual New Year´s Eve ridicule (Ára­­mótaskaup), an hour long come­­dy program ridiculing the year’s highlights. You can hear when the show ends (at about 11:30 PM) because at that time every­­­­­body rushes into their warm cloth­­es, run outside and start blasting fireworks­ as a fare­­­well gesture to the old year. This home­­­­­made show of explo­ s­ions goes on for almost an hour, reaching its In November and December Holiday highpoint at midnight. It is a spect­acle talked markets pop up like mushrooms offering about through­­out the World and those who live ornaments, crafts, designs and even home­ made delicacys. it never forget it. The Thirteenth

Having just dealt with the aftermath of Christ­ mas and New Year´s Icelanders tend to be rather calm during the first days of January. On the 6th they say goodbye to Christmas as the last Yule Lad leaves town. Many use this day to take down the Christmas decorations “On Christmas Eve day fa­m­­ilies stay and serve the last of the cookies and candy. home for the most part, tidy up the Various sports clubs throw a Thirteenth party house, deco­­rate their tree and cook with bonfire and a firework show during the their lavish Christ­­­mas meals, most evening. It is common to see all kinds of elves, trolls and Yule Lads entertaining children and An Advent wreath is a part of the Icelandic comm­only hangi­­­­­kjöt, smoked rack grownups at these parties but unlike the New Christmas tradition. Most make their own of pork, ptar­­mi­g­­ans, whole Year´s bonfires there is usually an ad­­missions late in November and it is usually the most prided of ornaments in the home. One candle goose or fresh lamb.” fee, the party being a great part of the teams is lit on every Sunday until Christmas. fund raising.

“Some say every day before Christmas has its own aroma. Mostly they mean cookies, apples, or­­ang­es, mandarins, At Arbaer Museum visitors can try their hand at traditional crafts, sing Yuletide songs, taste traditional holiday dishes and take a cloves and cinna­­mon ride in a horse-drawn carriage. but there are ot­hers, for exam­ple the in­­fam­­ous smell of rotten rays tra­ A dressed up Yule Lad entertains the people of diti­onally served on the Kópavogur at the lighting 23rd of Decem­ber. of the Christmas tree. Issue 1 ı 17 Promotion

The Danish Pub When in Iceland, go Danish!

You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though independence­ from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate every­thing Danish, so don´t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just acting­ like they’re Danish. Really!

This bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene cocktails if you’re not in the beer-mood (Does that ever happen?). and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appear­ remarkable selection of beers including the famous Danish white ances and unadvertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays and beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the traditional and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the test at the Wednesday almost obligatory Tuborg and Carlsberg. If you come during the night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you. Christmas season you can taste some of the renowned Christmas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”). Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while visiting Do as the Danes do Reykjavík. The people of Reykjavík do anyway, so they flock to The The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” during the Happy Hour every day from atmos­phere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Icelanders) 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaranteed to meet some as “hyggelich”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away fun, “lee glaath” people. from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house” within the pub – an off-the­-wall design in its most literal sense! Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the WOW Challenge: Imagine there’s a potato in your throat and custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitters or catch some live football. Watch receive every drink with the words: “Tag skaadoo haw”. They’ll all the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra­ think you´re from Copenhagen. Honest! ditional smørrebrød­ (fantastic open sandwiches). You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups. Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 I 101 Reykjavík I Tel: +354 552 0070 Does this sound too tranquil? www.dendanske.is I Opening hours: 14:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party. The atmosphere 14:00 – 05:00 Fri-Sat is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even

18 ı WOW is in the air Promotion

The disappearing café Ten Drops is also known for its homemade cakes, baked Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux from scratch according to old recipes, and of course, their hot cocoa, known by many of their guests as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa on Earth’. If you’re not in the mood for Des Dix Chuttes old fashioned Icelandic goodies you can choose from an assortment of light dishes, tea, wines and beer. We recommend the French meat soup, a popular dish and Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­ another old favorite vegur­ 27. This is one of the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly baked pancakes and Where did the café go? waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped Don´t be surprised if you can´t find the café after 18:00. cream and Icelandic jam. Something happens around that time that trans­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux Des Dix Chuttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops. This is a lovely place to sit and enjoy good wines along with cheese, ham or other light dishes for as little as 500 ISK a plate, and don´t worry, the coffee, cocoa and pancakes are still there! Lovely French music sets the mood and the ambiance is perfect for a deep conversation. Guests wanting to break out in song can have their turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long as they can find someone to play the antique piano given to the café’s owner, David Bensow, by a regular. Choose your wine Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Cha­ te­aux Des Dix Chuttes and David will make special orders to fulfill their wishes. In fact, he welcomes any suggestions making the wine list one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He´s especially interested in serving good Port to his clientele.

Intimate climate The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests and the mood is set in the early evening. It’s safe to say this is just the kind of place that was missing from the brimming Icelandic bar and café scene - a perfect setting for a small group of friends to reminisce over the good old days or for a first date. Be sure to taste David´s “wine of the week” or let his fair beer prices amaze you.

Check out the ten drops twitt­er feed and find both café and wine room on Facebook.

Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux Des Dix Chuttes Laugavegur 27 I 101 Reykjavík I Tel: 00 354 551 9380

Issue 1 ı 19 Promotion

Let´s go to the … Lebowski Bar The Reykjavik venue that rocks!

From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vega­ mot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn´t like the infamous 1998 movie we are certain­ you will love this bar.

Just walking in to this retro get those hips swaying. If that´s vodka based cocktails featuring you count the bars at actual American bar puts a smile on not enough there’s a DJ on coffee liqueurs and cream or bowling alleys that certainly don’t your face and the mood is very every night of the week so you milk. The Lebowski Bar has have the cool vibe of Lebowski­ 1960’s. You can hang out at the won´t feel the pressure of select­ taken this now-iconic drink to a Bar. DJs and a bass player add to old fashioned porch and imagine ing all the music by yourself. new level, offering an astound­ the music mix at weekends and you are in a real action movie. The menus are the biggest ing 18 varieties of White Russian, there’s room to dance. Check it They don´t make bars like these in Iceland … no literally! Their along with an extensive bar list. out dudes, you’re guaranteed a anymore … oh wait they do, this phy­­sical dimensions are huge! good time. one! Four big screens adorn the Doesn´t everyone say that size walls, so it’s also a great place really does matter? Bowling at the bar The real icing on the Lebowski to hang out when there are big Try their amazing burgers, there’s WOW Challenge: Dress up as cake, however, is the bar’s genu­ events and sporting high­lights cheese, bacon, a béarnaise­ a real rockabilly chick or dude ine bowling lane – it’s a classic. to be seen. And there’s also an sauce option and succulent beef before you go to the Lebowski­ How many bars have a bowling “outside” area deco­­rated in a tenderloin. If that’s not enough, Bar. You’ll fit right in. lane? In Iceland, not many, unless zappy Miami-sunshine yellow choose from one of the 12 kinds that will cheer even the dullest of milkshakes to go with it. of days. “Careful man, there’s The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a I +354 552 2300 I [email protected] Dine and jive a beverage here!” www.lebowskibar.is Lebowski Bar really captures the Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the FIND US ON FACEBOOK and Twitter I Twitter: @LebowskiBar diner style with cosy booths and protagonist of the Coen brother’s Instagram: #LebowskiBar I Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs a fabulous jukebox containing comedy, is renowned for his and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat over 1,600 songs guaranteed to penchant for ‘White Russians’ –

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake. Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which makes the vibe like none other in Reykjavik. They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that! Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great mainstream bar where you can meet fellow travelers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

20 ı WOW is in the air Saint Clair has become one of New Zealand’s leading winemaker, known for its exemplary whites and its fruit- forward reds, which have won a constant stream of awards and trophies. Promotion

SushiSamba Let your taste buds dance Open at the end of 2011 and already a hot favorite on the Reykjavik restaurant scene, SushiSamba offers a deliciously unique take on Icelandic fish and other home-grown ingredients. Fusing Iceland’s freshest flavors with Japanese, Peruvian and Brazilian influences, the restaurant’s top sushi masters have created a fantastic range of colorful dishes that taste as exciting as they look.

Fresh fish fusion A great selection of tempting smaller courses includes tuna ceviche with coconut sorbet and lobster tempura. If you fancy some meat, there are delicious Icelandic lamb ribs and beef rib-eye usually on the menu, along with an amazing steak platter for two. The ‘Juicy-Sushi’ maki rolls range from the shrimp based Volcano roll to Spicy Lobster and the Foie Gras – a stunning concoction of blue-fin tuna, foie gras and salmon caviar, perfect posh nosh! For surf ‘n’ turf lovers there is an exciting dish of beef tenderloin with lobster tempura, avocado, smoked teriyaki and tempura flakes. The South American influence also extends to the desserts, which include the exotic Red Velvet Cupcake – a magical blend of vanilla ice cream, passion fruit, chilli and white chocolate. If you can’t decide what to go for, the Icelandic feast is a perfect solution – six courses form an incredible tasting experience, including the national aperitif ‘Brennivin’ and an Icelandic Skyr flan for dessert. In between, enjoy fishy delights such as grilled spotted cat fish with pea purée, bacon and mojito foam; or minke whale tataki with fig jam. Also included is a dish of lamb ribs, complete with chilli crumble, “Skyr” mint sauce and celeriac fries.

Drink in the atmosphere Attentive staff, fabulous chilli mojitos and a gorgeously eclectic interior are the icing on the cake at SushiSamba. Hand-carved Brazilian curios and some 50 pretty Japanese birdcages complement the contemporary lines and gentle feel of the place. One of Iceland’s hottest style gurus and the artistic brain behind many of the city’s top restaurants, Leifur Welding is the man responsible for the design, and some say it’s his best work yet.

Sushi Samba Þingholtsstræti 5, 101 Reykjavik I +354 568 6600 I www.sushisamba.is [email protected] I Kitchen open: 17:00-23:00 Sun-Thurs (Midnight on Fri/Sat)

22 ı WOW is in the air Let your taste buds dance

At Emiliana we use organic and biodynamic agriculture to reflect our passion for making the highest quality wines and our deepest respect for nature and the environment. 24 ı WOW is in the air The invisible landmark Imagine Peace The Peace Tower was inaugurated on October 9, 2007. It is a symbol of Yoko Ono and John Lennon’s struggle in the name of peace, a struggle that began in the 1960s. The concept for the column of light came to Yoko Ono in 1967. “Imagine Peace” is engraved on the platform in 24 languages.

By Kristín Ýr Gunnarsdóttir Photos: Bragi Þór Jósefsson and Reykjavíkurstofa

oko came up with the idea to build a house or a tower made out of light almost 50 years ago. The idea was first mentioned in her book Grapefruit, a book that lists her so-called event scores for which she is now Yfamous. She tells a story from the time she and Lennon were getting to know each other, during which he became fascinated by her ‘concept work’. He asked if she could possibly build a tower of light in his garden,” Svanhildur Konráðsdóttir, the division head of the ­Department of Culture and Tourism, told the reporter. Yoko Ono’s relationship with Iceland began at an exhibition of her work held at the Kjarvalsstaðir Museum at the Reykjavík Art Festival, during which her friendship with Gunnar Kvaran, the previous Kjarvalsstaði Muse­ um’s head formed. “Gunnar was the one who suggest­ ed the idea that Yoko would produce a piece for Ice­land. It was in 2005, after Gunnar and I had gotten to know each other properly that he mentioned the idea to me and the wheels started turning. Then Yoko came to the country and met with Stefán Jón Hafsteinn, who at the time was the departmental head of the Board for Culture and Tourism. Strangely enough, the meeting was set the day before their mutual birthday on Febru­ ary 18,” says Svanhildur.

What is the Imagine Peace Tower? A memorial piece by Yoko Ono constructed on the island of Viðey in the bay of Kollafjörður to honour the memory of her late husband, John Lennon. Start: October 9, annually on Lennon’s birthday. End: December 8, on the anniversary of Lennon’s death. He died in 1980. Not to be forgotten: The tower is lit up for a whole week during winter solstice and spring equinox, as well as on New Years Eve and specific holidays agreed upon between the artist and the city of Reykjavík.

Issue 1 ı 25 Enjoy Yourself in Smáralind

The Largest Shopping Centre in Iceland

Smáralind offers surprisingly low prices on world renowned labels like Zara, Benetton, Debenhams, Hugo Boss, Oasis, Karen Millen, Levi‘s, Vero Moda, Topshop and Apple. Great selection of Icelandic design such as outdoor clothing from 66° North, Cintamani, ZO-ON Iceland as well as jewelry, crafts and more. Smáralind is also home to a multi-screen cinema and a good variety of cafés and restaurants.

“I hope the Imagine Peace Tower will give light to the strong wishes of world peace from all corners of the planet and give encouragement, inspiration and a sense of solidarity in a world now filled with fear and confusion” – Yoko Ono “Stefán Jón was a key figure in raising support for the Evening excursions are available to the island of Viðey, and dedicated to the project; the Orkuveitan energy company contributed Winner of the Imagine Peace Tower and the couple’s long struggle for peace. Time between the funds, and Yoko Ono paid the largest chunk out of prestigious IAAPA ­departure and return is roughly 90 to 120 minutes. Guided tours are available her own pocket to fund the design aspect as well as Brass Ring Awards as Top Family with a tour guide who relays information about history, nature and the arts on the installation. Yoko and I have become good friends, the island. Visitors are welcome to place a wish on Yoko Ono’s Wish Tree by the Entertainment and I have been in charge of the project since the Center 2012 Church of Viðey (Viðeyjarkirkja) at the end of the excursion. very beginn­ing in cooperation with the Reykjavík Art Museum, the caretakers at the island of Viðey and Visit Reykjavík,” says Svanhildur. The event has developed and changed in the last six years, or since the first Peace Award ceremony. “Yoko is very creative and open to the most extraordinary things. It’s been a blast working with her and her team. We have become co-producers in a documentary directed and produced by Ari Alexander Ergis Magnússon, about the creation and development of the Peace Tower project.­ The documentary will be screened in various film festi­ vals and hopefully makes it to television around the Skemmtigarðurinn at Smáralind is the world. The project has taken on unexpected façades only indoor amusement park in Iceland. and it’s become impossible for me to predict where it’ll Not to be missed. ever end,” Svanhildur concluded.

The Imagine Peace Tower consists of different beams that merge into an impressive column of light erupting from a “wishing fountain” four metres in diameter and two metres high. The surface of the fountain is covered in white glass, developed specifically in Japan with the latest chemical technology. The fountain is constructed on a platform that is seventeen metres in diameter. Yoko asked that the platform would be covered with three types of Icelandic rock, that is, rhyolite, dolerite and gray basalt. The surface is split into six “tunnels”. At the outer end of each tunnel is a searchlight from which the light makes its way to the wishing fountain inside where the light is reflected in mirrors receding to 45° and operat­ ing as prisms used to project the light into the air. The mirrors are produced out of a particular material that guarantees 99% refractivity. The design is a symbolic ­interpretation of Yoko Ono’s “Light House”, an event score she made in 1965.

26 ı WOW is in the air smaralind.is Opening hours: Weekdays: 11-19 Thu: 11-21 Sat: 11-18 Sun: 13-18 Find us at facebook Enjoy Yourself in Smáralind

The Largest Shopping Centre in Iceland

Smáralind offers surprisingly low prices on world renowned labels like Zara, Benetton, Debenhams, Hugo Boss, Oasis, Karen Millen, Levi‘s, Vero Moda, Topshop and Apple. Great selection of Icelandic design such as outdoor clothing from 66° North, Cintamani, ZO-ON Iceland as well as jewelry, crafts and more. Smáralind is also home to a multi-screen cinema and a good variety of cafés and restaurants.

Winner of the prestigious IAAPA Brass Ring Awards as Top Family Entertainment Center 2012

Skemmtigarðurinn at Smáralind is the only indoor amusement park in Iceland. Not to be missed.

smaralind.is Opening hours: Weekdays: 11-19 Thu: 11-21 Sat: 11-18 Sun: 13-18 Find us at facebook Photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson Simmering Southeast A feast for all the senses

28 ı WOW is in the air Photo: Árni Tryggvason. Photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson

Photo: Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson. Photo: Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson.

In the Vatnajökull Region you find some of the most popular tourist destinations in Iceland such as Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skafta­ fell, Vatnajökull (Europe´s largest glacier), Vatnajökull National­ Park, and many more attractions. You also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great restaurants with local food.

Photographers’ paradise The Vatnajökull Region covers the area of Southeast Iceland. This area is one of the most beautiful and diverse of all in Iceland. It is situated close to and partly within Vatnajökull National Park making nature our next door neighbor. One can find creeping glaciers, glacier­ Check out attractions and tours such as: lagoons, Iceland’s highest mountain and deepest lake. For hiking you can go from the black coastline to colorful mountains and deep valleys. If lucky, one might see seals on Boat rides at Jökulsárlón the coast and herds of reindeers are a common sight during winter. Glacier walks at Vatnajökull There are strong contrasts in the Vatnajökull Region from the white glaciers to the black Snowmobile tours at Vatnajökull sands that stretch along the coastline and in the spectacular nature throughout the region Jeep tours at Vatnajökull making it a true paradise for photographers. The combination of diverse nature and of the ATV tours at Hoffell varied sectors of tourism service has made the Vatnajökull Region one of Iceland’s most Northern Lights tours visited tourism areas in rural Iceland. Reindeer excursions Thorbergssetur Cultural Museum Taste the Nature Geothermal baths at Hoffell There are several restaurants in the area and most of them offer local food made in the Vatna­ Lobster meal at local restaurants jökull Region by local people. Examples of local food are arctic charr, smoked mackerel,­ duck Farm zoo at Hólmur meat, beef, cured lamb, ice cream, vegetables and of course the lobster which Höfn is famous Local food and handicraft for as the lobster capital of Iceland. And be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajökull, which is For more information: www.visitvatnajokull.is made with icebergs from Jökulsárlón and arctic thyme. Issue 1 ı 29 Capturing the Northern Lights Nature’s big show Olgeir Andresson has gathered attention worldwide for his photographs of the stunning nature of Iceland, especially the Northern Lights. Among his accomplishments is being named ‘Photographer­ of the Year’ in 2008 by Danish Zoom Magazine­ and having one of his photographs displayed on a big screen billboard in Times Square, .

By Dísa Bjarnadóttir hen asked function because­­­ I took the how long best pictures.” he’s been It wasn’t long until Olgeir Wtaking pict­­­ began capturing nature’s ures he explained­­ it started beauty on film. “People when he was very young. in my town probably “When I was a child I thought I was strange traveled around the country when I walked alone, with in the summertime with my my camera to the beach grand­­par­ents. My grand­ to take pictures of waves mother was very interested and seaweed. It wasn’t in taking pictures. She common in those days to taught me most of what I do those kinds of photos.” first learned about photo­ As for the Northern Lights graphy. From the age of 14 he still remembers vividly I started getting requests when they first captured from family members when­ his attention: “I grew up in ever there was a family a small village and I was “Benjamin Franklin theorized that the “myst­­ery of the Northern Lights” was caus­ ed by a concentra­tion of electrical charges in the Polar Regions intensified by the snow and other moisture.” This photo, taken near Reykjanesviti, was displayed on a big screen billboard in Times Square.

30 ı WOW is in the air Issue 1 ı 31 playing outside in the dark with my friends. We lay on our backs in the snow mak­­ing snow angels, so nat­ urally we were looking up at the sky. That’s my first memory of the Northern Lights.” WE‘LL TAKE Around 1984 Olgeir started trying to capture the Northern­­ Lights on film which wasn’t always easy. “It took time to learn and it was much YOU THERE! more difficult before digital cam­ ALL THE MOST ExCITINg eras. Many of the first ones came out completely dark. The digital PLACES IN ICELAND cameras have completely changed the potential to get good photos, espec­ially as the technology and the equipment keeps getting better. But what’s most im­­portant is Researchers have discov­ having a good lens.” ered that auroral activity When asked about the best times and places to see the Northern is cyclic, peaking roughly Lights he says that because of every 11 years. The next the high intensity of solar activity peak period is 2013. ex­­pected in 2013 and 2014, these should be good years. The best time is around midnight at places The Aurora Borealis such as Krýsuvík, Borgarnes, Þingvellir and Mosfellsheiði, places (Northern Lights) and the that are not far from Reykjavík but Aurora Australis (South­ ExPERIENCE away from the bright city lights. ern Lights) occur close to Olgeir has been known to give the north and south poles A gREAT DAY seminars and even guided tours to when highly charged WITH US! visitors and travelers but his best electrons from the solar work is usually when the rest of us wind interact with ele­ Discover all the magical places not have gone to bed and he’s outside ments from the earth’s to be missed when in Iceland: in the dark with his camera. atmosphere. Beautiful nature, multicolored mountains, fertile farmlands, stunning views, plummeting Free WiFi Hotspot on MORE TOURS AVAILABLE and on waterfalls, natural wonders and our website board all our coaches. IN OUR BROCHURES www.re.is Olgeir gave us permission to publish a small sample of his collection. geological phenomena. For more stunning photos visit: www.olgeir.zenfolio.com

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and admission O our brochures or visit www.flybus.is Duration: Flexible. Included: return bus fare & admission to the blue Lagoon. Pick up at hotels & guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. Guaranteed departures. Fast, frequent & on schedule Adults every day of the week. PRICE 8000 ISK Children - bus fare From Keflavík Airport From Blue Lagoon and admission Free WiFi Hotspot to Blue Lagoon to Keflavík Airport on board all Duration: Flexible. Reykjavik Excursions Included: return bus fare & coaches. 09:30, 12:45, 12:15 & 14:15 admission to the blue Lagoon. 16:15 & 17:15 Pick up at hotels & guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. Guaranteed departures. REYKjAVíK KEF AIRPORT REYKjAVíK CITY From Reykjavík From Blue Lagoon to Blue Lagoon to Reykjavík 0–11 years 12–13 years FREE OF 09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 11:15, 12:15, 13:15, CHARgE PRICE 1600 ISK 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 14:15, 15:15, 16:15, 15.00, 16:00, 17:00 17:15, 18:15, 19:15 14–15 years & 18:00 & 21:00 PRICE 4000 ISK You can buy your ticket at our tour desk in the arrival hall at Keflavík Valid through 31 May 2013 Airport & in the ticket automats located by the exit.

bsÍ bus terminal 101 reykjavík +354 580 5400 OR [email protected] • www.re.is 32 ı WOW is in the air WE‘LL TAKE YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST ExCITINg PLACES IN ICELAND

ExPERIENCE A gREAT DAY WITH US! Discover all the magical places not to be missed when in Iceland: Beautiful nature, multicolored mountains, fertile farmlands, stunning views, plummeting Free WiFi Hotspot on MORE TOURS AVAILABLE and on waterfalls, natural wonders and our website board all our coaches. IN OUR BROCHURES www.re.is geological phenomena.

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and admission O our brochures or visit www.flybus.is Duration: Flexible. Included: return bus fare & admission to the blue Lagoon. Pick up at hotels & guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. Guaranteed departures. Fast, frequent & on schedule Adults every day of the week. PRICE 8000 ISK Children - bus fare From Keflavík Airport From Blue Lagoon and admission Free WiFi Hotspot to Blue Lagoon to Keflavík Airport on board all Duration: Flexible. Reykjavik Excursions Included: return bus fare & coaches. 09:30, 12:45, 12:15 & 14:15 admission to the blue Lagoon. 16:15 & 17:15 Pick up at hotels & guesthouses 30 minutes before departure. Guaranteed departures. REYKjAVíK KEF AIRPORT REYKjAVíK CITY From Reykjavík From Blue Lagoon to Blue Lagoon to Reykjavík 0–11 years 12–13 years FREE OF 09:00, 10:00, 11:00, 11:15, 12:15, 13:15, CHARgE PRICE 1600 ISK 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 14:15, 15:15, 16:15, 15.00, 16:00, 17:00 17:15, 18:15, 19:15 14–15 years & 18:00 & 21:00 PRICE 4000 ISK You can buy your ticket at our tour desk in the arrival hall at Keflavík Valid through 31 May 2013 Airport & in the ticket automats located by the exit.

bsÍ bus terminal 101 reykjavík +354 580 5400 OR [email protected] • www.re.is Attacking the taste buds

What’s that smell? Thorri food Thorri food is a traditional Icelandic food served during Thorri, the fourth month of winter according to the old, Icelandic calendar. Thorri, possi­bly a nickname for the old pagan god Thor, starts in the thirteenth week of winter, the 18th-24th of January, and always on a Friday. The first day of Thorri is called Husband´s Day and Thorri ends in the eigh- teenth week of winter on a Saturday called Thorri´s Slave. Originally, Thorri food was served in individual farms on the first day of Thorri as an ancient midwinter festival.

By: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Photos. Kristinn Magnússon and Birtíngur photocollection. oday many restaurants taste the traditional dishes. and grocery shops in Thorri food soon became popu­ Reykjavik and around lar in other restaurants around the country offer Thorri town and of course many people food in the month of knew these dishes from their TThorri, most commonly smoked younger­ days. Many of the region­ lamb and meat and fish cured al societies then started using the and processed in the tradition­ terms “Thorri food” and “Thorri al way and served sliced in a feast” when they advertised their wooden tray. The beginning of reunions. Besides, Thorri comes this tradition can be traced back at a time which is usually consi­ to midwinter reunions of student dered rather slow in the restau­ societies in the late 19th century rant business. Around 1970 the and later to various regional term “Thorri tray” became a societies in the beginning of the 20th century. These reunions often offered buffets of “Iceland­ ic food” or “Icelandic food the old style” which consisted of a few well known dishes from the Icelandic countryside that had become rare in the common Icelandic household, such as sing­ed sheep heads, stockfish, cured shark and whale blubber, favourites of some of the “old timers” and the more adventur­ ous. The term “Thorri food” did not emerge until the year 1958 when restaurant Naustid in Reykjavik began offering a special “Thorri menu” consisting The term “Thorri food” of these traditional countryside did not emerge until the dishes. The declared intention year 1958 when restaurant of this Thorri menu was to offer Naustid in Reykjavik began people who did not belong to offering a special a regional society a chance to “Thorri menu”

34 ı WOW is in the air synonym when referring the all the Thorri food as a special dish. Many restaurants offer a selection of traditional pickled and non-pickled Thorri-trays. Thus Thorri food has evolved through the years to take into account the changes in peoples taste. For additional information on Icelandic holidays and traditions we recommend the book “High Times and Holidays in Iceland”, available in most Icelandic book stores. If you are a tourist travelling around Iceland,­­ at any time of the year, you will probably be offered some of these smelly delicacies with the claim that this is traditional Icelandic food and what the people of Iceland are eating. That is, of course, a lie. Icelanders just love watching tourists gag and cough. Truth be told fewer and fewer Icelanders appreciate the Thorri food and those who do usually only eat it around the Thorri season.

What you could find in a Thorri tray: Pickled blood and liver pudding Briskets Rye pancakes Smoked lamb Stockfish Pickled loin parcel Cured shark (also known as rotten shark) Lace bread Flanks Pot bread Pickled whale blubber Mashed beets Rye bread Pickled seal flippers Pickled swim bladders Pickled ram´s testicles Singed sheep heads Singed sheep legs Sheep head jelly, pickled and non-pickled Pickled pig jelly

Brennivín Also known as ‘Black Death’, Brennivín is not unlike the Scandinavian akvavit as it comes from the old folk tradition of steeping herbs in alcohol to create schnapps. This schnapps is considered to be Iceland’s signature liquor. Made from fermented potato mash and flavored with caraway seeds it has a strong taste and high alcohol content. This world famous drink is not as popular among Icelanders as you would think, given its status as the national beverage but it is traditional to have a little taste or two during the Thorri festivals. Some use it solely to mask the taste after taking a bite of the cured shark.

A taste you say? After all you’ve now read about Thorri food, you still want to try it out? We have just the thing. You will need a safe environment and responsible caterers, not some laughing farmer who won’t even pat you on the back if the shark goes down the wrong way. Try Café Loki’s sample dish of these horrific delicacies. This cozy family owned café is almost directly across from Hallgrimskirkja Church so you can enjoy the view while putting your taste buds to the test. Issue 1 ı 35 36 ı WOW is in the air Cooking up a storm How to cook a traditional Icelandic Christmas meal Text: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Recipes: Gestgjafinn culinary magazine / Chef Úlfar Finnbjörnsson Photo: Gunnar þór

For most Icelanders the smell of hangikjöt (hanged Uppstúfur (white sauce): toes and add them to the melted meat / smoked lamb) is a pleasant reminder of Christmas. 2 tbsp. butter sugar. Mix thoroughly without Although Hangikjot is mostly associated with the Holidays 2 tbsp. flour breaking the potatoes and let 3 ½ dl milk simmer on low heat for 3-4 min. it can also be found in an Icelandic midwinter festival ½ tsp. salt known as Thorri celebrated after the middle of January 1/3 tsp. pepper Homemade red cabbage: (see page 34). Besides this, it is served thinly sliced with ¼ tsp. nutmeg 1 head of red cabbage, about both regular bread and flatbread, all year round. 1 tsp. sugar (optional) 1 kg Why not use the opportunity to take some of Iceland to 1 apple your home and give your friends and relatives a chance to Melt the butter in a saucepan. 50-75 g butter taste and smell this Icelandic delicacy? We’ll show you how. Add flour and mix well until 1 tsp. salt the flour and butter resemble 3 cloves dough. Pour the milk in gradu­ 4 peppercorns ally, whisking constantly until ½ tsp. ground pepper Icelandic hangikjöt with potatoes, red cabbage, white all the milk has gone into the 1 tbsp. red wine vinegar all the trimmings sauce and green peas and, if saucepan. Let simmer on low 2 tbsp. raspberry jam possible, leaf bread (laufa­brauð). heat for 5 min. whisking regu­ 1 dl raspberry juice 2-2 1/2 kg roll of smoked The best drinks to serve with larly. Add salt, pepper, nutmeg ½ l water lamb or smoked thigh of lamb hangikjöt are Christmas ale or and sugar to taste. (hangikjöt or hangilæri) a blend of malt ale and orange­­ Chop red cabbage and apple 1 l apple cider or apple juice soda (available in all Ice­­landic This sauce is always served hot, into small pieces. Melt the butter 2 tbsp. apple syrup grocery stores) or, if neither is even if the hangikjöt is served in a large saucepan and simmer attainable, a good beer. cold. the cabbage and apple for a Put the smoked meat, cider and few minutes. Add salt, spices, syrup in a large cauldron and eftovers can be served cold vinegar, jam, juice and water fill it with water until the meat is and thinly sliced with bread Sugared potatoes: and let simmer under a lid for 45 submerged. You can also use Lor you can use the apple 2 dl sugar min. or until the cabbage is soft, just water (the cider does not cider broth and make a delicious 2 tbsp. lemon juice stirring occasionally. Put cloves change the taste of the meat soup. Use 1 l of the broth and 40 g butter and peppercorns into a closed but the broth will be absolutely heat in a saucepan along with 1 kg boiled potatoes, peeled gauze for easy removal. delicious this way). Bring to a 1 chopped fennel and boil for Add water if necessary. boil and let simmer on low heat 5 min. Add 1 chopped apple Pour sugar and juice into a large for 40 min. and 200 g of the smoked meat, skillet; blend well. Heat the skil­ Red cabbage can also be Take the cauldron off the stove diced, into the saucepan along let and stir until the sugar turns bought ready-made in most and let it stand for 20 min. Now with 2 tablespoons of chopped golden brown. Lower the heat, ­supermarkets in Iceland. Then the meat is ready to serve hot coriander. Serve with sliced add butter and melt together. all you have to do is heat it up. or cold with sugared or regular baguette. Strain all water from the pota­ Issue 1 ı 37 ELEGANT Dorrit has a knack for elegance. SOPHISTICATED Dorrit´s style is pretty and sophisticated, mixed up with traditional Icelandic hand knitted items.

The First Lady‘s fashion Dorrit Moussaieff, Iceland´s first lady, is one of the country´s best dressed women and has been so for many years. She is always smart and charming, elegant and beautiful.

By Íris Dögg Pétursdóttir

DAPPER Looking beautiful and dapper in her house in Britain.

BRRRR In black and white in the freezing cold. BEAUTIFUL IN BLACK Dorrit in her London home 38 ı WOW is in the air BEAUTIFUL Red is a good colour on the first lady.

GREEN AND DIVINE President Grimsson and Dorrit at a private party in Drottningholm 2006, the day before Carl Gustaf, King of Sweden’s, 60th birthday FANCY Attending the Pink Ribbon reception in 2008.

SUMMERTIME COZY The first lady was fresh as a Dorrit chose to stay warm while sight­ summers breeze while meet­ seeing with Frederik, Prince of Denmark,­ ing with Hillary Clinton. and his wife Mary in 2008. ICELAND´S BEST DRESSED There is an obvious reason why Dorrit has been chosen Iceland´s best dressed for many years.

TRENDY Dorrit is always dressed to HAPPY impress. Merry and yellow at home. Issue 1 ı 39 Cool gossip By Benedikt Bóas and Björk Eiðsdóttir

Crowe‘s nests Known for his roles in Gladiator, Robin Hood FULLY LOADED: and A Beautiful Mind, actor Russell Crowe is When the RV is fully extended it looks a big league Hollywood actor. Last summ­ like this and rivals a small apartment. er Russell stayed in Iceland for five weeks while filming his scenes for Darren Aronof­ The home was built in 2007 after Werners­ sky‘s “Noah”. As the locations were often in son had the previous, smaller house leveled. the Icelandic Highlands, where there are no Renowned interior architect Jóhanna Kristín hotels, Crowe stayed in this luxurious 2006, Ólafsdóttir designed the inside of the house 301 horse power Allegro Bay RV. and according to reliable sources, there is Croweland! Here is where Russell Crowe a great cellar under the house serving as a lived while in Reykjavík last summer. Located in recreational area. the popular Fossvogur, this 600 square meter This particular house has also been in the house is the home of Steingrímur Wernersson, news because in it is said to be a panic room, most often associated with his firm Milestone quite an uncommon feature in the Icelandic and one of the so-called outvasion Vikings of household. Iceland´s financial rise (and crisis).

nature played a big role Marriages on thin ice? as it forced him to face the truth. You can’t lie to What is Iceland´s role in the recent avalanche of Hollywood divorces? yourself with this pristine nature before your eyes. Hollywood actors and actresses have flocked to Iceland during the last few months but not all of them have had a happy return to the States.

Ryan Phillippe and Reese Witherspoon STUNNING: Phillippe came to Iceland Emma Watson is best known for her part for his role in Flags of our as Hermione in the Harry Potter movies. Tom Cruise and Katie Fathers and had a great She was in good spirits at Hotel Rangá. Holmes time. Such fun was his stay It seems as if Iceland that he forgot his vows. A taste of Iceland for Emma was the final puzzle in Witherspoon was heart­ Actress Emma Watson stayed in Iceland while Katie Holmes great divorce brok­­en, but at least the working on “Noah”. While here she popped into plot. Tom Cruise stayed in movie was good. Hotel Rangá and had a taste of the Icelandic Russell Crowe and Dani­ Northern Iceland shooting lamb with a glass of Icelandic water. elle Spencer scenes for his movie Obliv­ Clad in tight black jeans and a light sweater, After nine years of marri­age­ ion while Holmes­­ planned Emma Watson went without make up to dinner Russell Crowe and Dani­ her big surprise. She flew at Hotel Rangá. She was accompanied by two elle Spencer are gett­ing back to the States, moved a divorce. The couple has women and looked happy and relaxed, while smil­ out of their house and left Is Ben Stiller next? two sons, Charles (8) and ing, joking and infecting others with her laughter. Tom for good. Ben Stiller and his wife Tennyson (6), and to the Icelanders now await the premier of “Noah”, Christ­­ine Taylor have been world they have always expected on March 14, 2014. married since 2000. Stiller looked like the ideal stayed in Iceland most married couple, especially of last summer and now according to Hollywood there are reports that his standards. According to marriage is on the rocks. sources, Crowe did not Javier Bardem Sources claim to have act the devoted husband A few years ago Javier seen him leaving a bar during his stay in Iceland, Bardem visited Iceland with an Icelandic girl but COOL HOTEL: befriending a young wom­ and travelled the Icelandic this has not been confirm­ Hotel Rangá is in a league of its own. an who now has a text Highlands along with his ed. We sincerely hope that Here the big stars can come and relax for message to prove it. Did then girlfriend. During the the Icelandic divorce fairy a while. It is also one of the top places to Spencer find out and kick trip they broke up. Accord­ does not go knocking on view the Northern Lights. her man to the curb? ing to Javier the Icelandic Stiller´s door.

40 ı WOW is in the air Northern Lights photo contest

Be snappy and you could win flights to Iceland WOW air is running a cool little competition for all you photophiles, shutter- bugs and happy snappers. Even perhaps for you sad snappers as well.

end us your favorite picture (or video) of the Northern Lights and you could win a return flight for two with WOW air from any of our European destinations. It’s that simple, takes no time at all and is free to enter! The rules are that you have to have taken the picture yourself and own the copyright. SOnly enter the competition if you consent to WOW air potentially using your photo for illustration and/or marketing purposes in print and/or online. As long as photos are of the Northern Lights or the Southern Lights, it does not matter whether they were taken in Iceland or not. Closing date for entries is the 1st of February 2013 and the winner will be notified by email. The top entries will appear on our website, with photographers’ names. All entries should be sent to [email protected] with the subject line ‘I smell’ – or ­‘Photo competition’, it’s your choice.

Good luck!

Get going while the going is good If you have a camera but no Northern Lights to capture you could always spring for a WOW air Northern Lights package. Just imagine buying one trip but getting two because of your epic photos. If you don´t win the contest at least you’ll have your own wonderful memories of the trip. Make your dreams of Northern Lights come true at www.wowiceland.co.uk.

Issue 1 ı 41 42 ı WOW is in the air Jumping the

fMovie directorence and producer, Baltasar Kormákur: Iceland’s hottest answer to Hollywood

By Jón Kristinn Snæhólm Photos: Bragi Þór Jósefsson

altasar Kormákur is Iceland´s most Living by the sea outstanding movie director today. Baltasar was five years old when he moved His latest movie, The Deep, has to the Kópavogur Bay area where the sea acquired exceptional reviews and and its beaches dazzled the young boy is now on its way to conquering with their amazing secrets. In those days Bthe world. The Deep is Iceland´s contribution Kópavogur was a small municipality where to the Academy Awards coming up next people from countryside villages settled spring. Will Baltasar´s movie bring home an bringing with them their long cherished Oscar and win a lot of prestige for Icelandic traditions and culture often in sharp contrast filmmaking? Baltasar is prepared. “You never to the fashionable capital milieu. Farms know! I am very ambitious and it would make with horses and other livestock dotted the me very happy. I already have my speech neighborhood, cured shark meat hung in ready!” informs the filmmaker when asked sheds, and men went fishing from their own about his shot at an Oscar. boats. Close to his house Baltasar was either Baltasar was born in Iceland on February fishing in the bay or befriending the horses 27th 1966. It seems like the goddesses of nearby. the arts favor this day as he shares a birth­ Obvious to most, Baltasar does not have day with many great artists such as Elizabeth the typical Icelandic appearance or an ordi­ Taylor, Josh Groban, Joan Bennet, Michael nary Icelandic surname. Fox and John Steinbeck. Kópavogur was his “My father is a Catalonian from Barcelona. playground but he was born in Fossvogsdal­ On his first trip to Iceland he had recently ur, at the border of Reykjavik and Kópavogur, graduated from the University of Fine Arts where a tiny creek separates the Kópavogur in Barcelona. He wanted to make enough municipality and the capital. money in the herring industry to buy art sup­ plies and paint through the winter. On one of Meet the latest WOW Star. For Baltasar, being a WOW his trips he decided to drop into the Mokka Star might just be an honorary title but for the up and café, a center of culture, arts and small talk coming film makers of Iceland this sponsorship will prove in Reykjavík. There he met my mother, Krist­ beneficial. Baltasar believes in Icelandic film making and does his utmost to support it. Through Baltasar WOW air jana Guðnadóttir, a young innocent girl from will sponsor the young film makers of Iceland on their the county of Grimsnes. It was love at first way to great things and even greater movies. sight, and contrary to popular beliefs this Spanish lover did not flee before the birth of

Issue 1 ı 43 the child – in fact, they are still together. And has gone to sleep. That’s the best time for they still live in the house where I grew up. me. I can be a bit groggy in the morning but My mother later became a fine artist herself where my movies are concerned, and during graduating from the University of Fine Arts in shoot­ings, one time is as good as another, Reykjavík and the University of Fine Arts in whether it be at six o´clock in the morning or Tucson, Arizona,” says Baltasar. late in the evening – I am always on track. I work when I need to work so it’s to my ad­ vantage that I have never been very set in Under the influence of art and nature my ways.” Growing up in close proximity to the sea andwith artistic parents had a great influence on Baltasar­ and he says both art and nature other Nature plays a huge part in have marked his character deeply. “I was Baltasar’s movies. His upbringing by deeply affected by my father´s painting Mthe sea and life along the beach has every night as I was growing up. He needed always had a profound effect on him. peace and quiet and since he didn’t have “It‘s true, nature, especially the sea, has a separate studio he waited till everyone helped mold me. I not only lived by the sea went to bed so he could use the living room. that came right up to our garden, but I also When the family was waking up in the morn­ discovered its endless possibilities such as ing he was placing his brushes into turpen­ fishing, exploring, and jumping between ice tine and heading­ for bed. At night he could floes when the bay froze. I was a member master his art. This touched me deeply,” of a yacht club nearby and the proud owner Baltasar says, admitting to be a bit of a night of a laser sailboat which I often sailed from raven himself. the clubhouse, home to have one of my “I often work during the night but maybe mother’s delicious omelettes. The sea was things will be changing now that I am getting my life and I longed for its company. Can older. I have always been a night person you imagine many kids dressing themselves and have written volumes after everyone in woolen clothes and swimming with the family dog in the cold sea? Swimming in the sea is “in” today but it certainly “Through my movies you can wasn’t then. Without the influence of see the huge effect nature and the sea I would not have been able to the harsh weather conditions do The Deep. Through my movies you can see the huge effect nature and we often experienced have had the harsh weather conditions we often on me.” experienced have had on me.”

44 ı WOW is in the air “Mundane activities such as ordi­ nary physical work can trigg­er a lot of good ideas. These relaxing moments can be very inspiring.”

Basic information: Date of birth: 27 February, 1966 Relationship status: Married Children: Five Favorite food: Dry fish Favorite beverage: Water What kind of car do you drive? I don´t have a car. I never stay in the same place for long so I use rental cars wherever I go. Dream project: Laxness’ Inde- pendent People Favorite project of your career: Film- ing White Night Wedding in Flatey was one of the best summers of my life. What are your most popular movies? Contraband has the greatest distribu- tion of course, but 101 Reykjavík, The Sea, Jar City, White Night Wedding and now, The Deep, have all been very popular in Iceland and abroad consid- ering that they are in Icelandic.

Trash is trash has been servicing the big movie companies Sout­ h­ ern­ European TV stations simply pro­ Baltasar has been a very productive author, that came to Iceland this year to shoot new vide much worse material than the worst actor and director both in the theatre and movies, such as Ben Stiller´s, The secret life material ever presented in The States. movies. Now he works on either side of the of Walter Mitty, Darren Aronofsky’s, Noah Southern Europe goes further concerning Atlantic making both Hollywood and Icelan­ starring Russell Crowe, Oblivion with Tom “reality trash”. What people often tend to dic productions. Since 2005, Baltasar has Cruise and Thor 2. My earnings abroad have forget when they watch a European movie directed and produced eight movies, five mostly been used to strengthen the Icelandic­­ or TV series is that they are only watching of which are in Icelandic. When asked his film industry, as well as to produce Icelandic the top 2% of the best material produced in opinion about whether LA and Hollywood movies, such as Fleigur [Rocket Man] by Dag­ Europe. are the venues where things are happening ur Kári [director of Nói Albinói, Good Heart “European film and TV productions have in the film industry today, he answers: and Dark Horse]. Not long ago I bought the such scarce circulation that audiences in “Regarding my work yes and no … I live movie rights to film Laxness´s Independent Europe are really watching the crème de la in Iceland but I do a lot of my work in LA. People and I have numerous Icelandic proj­ crème of the entire production, even some Most of film financing and distribution comes ects in development.” of that is simply so bad that it is absolutely from Hollywood and it is the capital of film not worth watching.” making. I don‘t want to live there permanently ately Baltasar has spent a lot of time Icelandic audiences get to see so much though. My best creations are inspired by in the States, amongst the Hollywood more, percentage wise, of American movies Iceland and that’s where I do most of my crowd. The names of big stars appear and TV productions than the rest of Europe. work. Iceland is the core of my creativity. Of Lin connection with his movies, such Ever since World War II, Americans have course I have to go abroad to shoot films as Mark Wahlberg and Kate Beckinsale in been busy distributing their culture in this but I have already invested in and started Contraband, Forest Whitaker and Julia Stiles country thanks to the defence agreement Icelandic production companies; Blue Eyes in A Little Trip to Heaven and now Denzel and the economical circumstances between Vision will soon produce an Icelandic TV Washington in Two Guns, currently in post our two countries. That way we get both the series, and True North, of which I own 30%, production. best and the worst productions – in other Many Icelandic cultural idealists plainly words the whole spectrum. claim Hollywood to be the outhouse of “The other big difference between high and Baltasars top five favorite West­­ern culture. Why is Baltasar not working low quality is that “junk” often sells better, it movies: in Paris, Rome or Berlin where European has more commercial value – more popular culture is said to be blooming? appeal. Hamburgers sell better than steaks; Come and See (Idi I smotri - 1985) by “Well! There are all kinds of boogie stories right? I hope this doesn’t make me sound Elem Klimov. “This movie is always and ideas concerning these matters floating like a snob. I am not a snob by nature.” on the top of my list. I saw it at a film around, and some of them concerning festival when I was about 20 years old Hollywood are, I am sorry to say, true. But Baltasar has chosen to work in The States and it had a great effect on me.” since you use the term outhouse then I say and he has a mission concerning his work Carmen (1983) by Carlos Saura that European culture is in no need of an there. Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid American outhouse since there are plenty of (1969) by George Roy Hill them in Europe. “Yes absolutely, and a very clear mission. Witness (1985) by Peter Weir “Eurotrash” can be hideous like so many I want to loosen up the severe limitations Down by Law (1986) by Jim Jarmusch European TV stations prove, and many concerning Icelandic filmmaking. I dream

Issue 1 ı 45 what is relevant to them. If the material is too local and the inner universal message is not Baltasar is currently working on the clear then a foreign audience will not relate movie Two Guns, starring Denzel to it. The movie could end up with negative Washington and Mark Wahlberg. responses, and therefore not be fit for the The plot follows a DEA Agent and an foreign market.” undercover Naval Intelligence Officer who have been tasked with investi- Does that mean that if a movie becomes too gating one another. They then find typically Icelandic, foreign audiences will not that they have been set up by the very comprehend what is really happening on organization they believed they had the screen? been stealing money from. “I may get slaughtered for saying this, but if you do things well and in a professional way they will arouse interest on foreign grounds. If you tell a story well, it does not matter where it happens as long as it sparks someone’s interest. The movie Jar City, an all in one a thriller - a crimex and detective story, was considered typically Icelandic but both audiences and critics found it to be good just like it was presented. This is what I mean. How many detective movies from or Finland have been presented in Icelandic movie theaters? On the other hand, my movies are presented in Israel and Fin­ land and in most other countries. This is much more difficult to achieve than people realize but I have achieved it and thereby attained an audience abroad. You asked me about my mission. I want to get rid of all limitations, put my work on the international market and in of helping the industry reach a higher level that way draw attention to Iceland­­ and the Ice­ where passion and dedication to excellence landic film industry. With all of this said I want rule and drive Icelandic filmmakers to success to make it clear that it is still important that the in the field. I do not only want to make artistic Icelandic film industry cares about the Ice­ movies that get outstanding reviews during landic audience. Without them there wouldn’t some film festival and only 500 people watch. be much of an Icelandic film industry.” Neither do I want to produce trash just to generate easy money. I want to make good What is the future of the Icelandic film quality movies for everybody, like Jar city Independent People industry? and The Deep, movies which make people Independent People (Sjálfstætt fólk) is an epic flock to theaters around the world, movies novel by Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness. Original- “It is very important to produce films in which can also be presented at film festi­­­vals ly published in two volumes in 1934 and 1935, the Iceland as well as welcome big movie pro­ and get distributed as such.” novel deals with the struggle of poor Icelandic ductions from abroad. Everyone should be farmers in the early 1900’s, surviving in isolated able to make their movies, tell their stories. crofts in an inhospitable landscape. The most im- Local or global? Icelandic filmmaking should be like The Na­ portant theme of the novel is independence, what Even though many of Baltasar’s movies are tional Theatre, capturing the present state of it means and what is worth sacrificing to achieve typically Icelandic, one seems to detect mind, preserving it, and giving us a window it. The ancient Icelandic Sagas and Icelandic some international atmosphere about them. folklore are still alive in the stories and fables on to history. The Deep is a good example Sinking ships and the rescuing of people is that the characters live with on a daily basis. The of this. There are groups of elementary stu­ not an exclusive Icelandic event, miracles imaginations of the characters are inhabited by dents going to the theatres wanting to see happen all over the world as do crimes and elves, ghosts and demons. how things were here in the ‘80s.” Bjartur of Sommerhouses, the main character, all sorts of hide and seek games. is without a doubt one of the most single-minded “Many of my movies are actually very So the film industry is an important tool to figures of literary history. He takes a note from Don local, wrapped in the most typical Icelandic preserve our cultural inheritance? Quixote and Candide and is devoted to the seem- reality as can be. No one, at any rate very ingly simple concept of personal independence. few people like to go to the movies to see This novel, the title literally meaning self-stand- “Yes, very important. Some forces here an Icelandic film which appears to be a copy ing, or self-reliant people, is considered amongst are opposed to supporting culture ... By all of an American one. But people need to see the foremost examples of social realism in means go to Luxembourg which accommo­ Icelandic fiction in the 1930’s. It is an indictment dates one airport and many banks. There is of materialism and capitalism itself. It was this Brainstorming with Baltasar: no culture to speak of. People may want to novel, along with others that helped Laxness win the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1955. “I have discovered that merely live in such a country but I don’t wish to be there with them. Every Icelander who’s read Independent People sweeping the stables or washing the has their own view of it. Is Baltasar nervous about dishes can begin a journey that leads “Our culture is our most important heritage. taking on this huge part of the Icelandic psyche? to something extraordinary. There are What is a country without culture? This makes “This project is not at that stage yet and besid­ us who and what we are, it gives us our identi­ times when my mind just drifts off. I es, I think Icelanders have changed regarding ty. If we stop to think about our great Sagas … this. I also think they will be thankful that this don’t have to try and think about any- someone had to slaughter a calf and skin it to movie is being made. There is more acceptance thing special, things just come to me. be able to write our history on that skin. This to individual interpretations of novels today, than Amazing notions pop right into my is exactly what we are doing today. We are say, 10-20 years ago because people are more broadminded and seasoned these days. They’ll head. Mundane activities such as ordi- writing our history.” nary physical work can trigger a lot of understand that some changes have to be made So you are skinning the calf? to film such a huge project. Of course some good ideas. These relaxing moments people who don’t see their interpretation of the can be very inspiring. “Yes and some American buffalos too.” novel might get angry.

46 ı WOW is in the air Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 a Í Because sometimes a gentleman needs to do business in the morning and climb a mountain in the afternoon. • jl.is s & Le’macks Jónsson The Eldborg jacket is designed to meet the needs of contemporary living. It’s a technical jacket that combines classical tailoring and high-tech Polartec® fabrics. Whether you are on top of the highlands or downtown central - Eldborg is a performer for the wilderness and a stylish fit for daily life in the city.

The Eldborg Jacket is the winner of the 2012 Apex Award

» magazine.66north.is The golden boy

Kristján Eyjólfsson is fit for a queen

The diamond brooch presented to Queen Elizabeth on her diamond jubilee last summer.

By Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos: from private collection When Queen Elizabeth celebrated her 60 years on the throne with a diamond jubilee in the summer of 2012 she was pre­sent­ed with a special gift. A diamond brooch designed and made by the Icelandic goldsmith Kristján Eyjólfsson. The brooch was presented to Her Majesty the Queen by the Royal Horticultural Society. Eyjolfsson’s inspiration for the piece came from the flower Iris Unguicularis. For the first time in the history of the Society, dinner guests were also presented with limited edition pins, also designed and made by Kristján.

ristján has lived and In his latest collection named worked in London Vikingur, Kristján pays tribute to since 2004, where he his Icelandic Viking ancestors designs and makes fine with the Recycled Sterling Silver jewelry collections­ and collection. “Fine jewelry means Kbespoke pieces under his label the creation of pieces - designed Kristjan Eyjolfsson Fine Jewelry. and made by hand - of the high­ He says that his inspirations come est quality and thereby made to from his love of dramatic and un­ last.” Besides his commitment to usual forms found in nature, archi­ excellence in jewellery, Kristján tecture, paintings and sculpture. states, “we are committed to These various inspirations can be environmental­ and social re­­­ seen in Kristján’s 2012 collect­ions sponsibility”. This special focus on named Regal, Cath­edral, Embrace ethics and sustainability means and On the Rocks. While the that when possible Kristján avoids Cathedral collect­ion is inspired harsh and harmful chemicals in by the stained glass windows of his work and only uses materi­ cathedrals, On the Rocks features als that are sustainable, et­hical rings inspired by ice cubes and and conflict-free. “The way we icebergs. see it, our commitment to the

“Fine jewelry means the creation of pieces - de- signed and made by hand - of the highest quality and thereby made to last.”

48 ı WOW is in the air environment extends beyond very same day in London. Even sourcing the right materials but though Kristján and Ivonne’s Promotion also to what chemicals we use wedding was quite a bit smaller when making our lovely pieces. with a head count of eighteen We do business with suppliers guests, like Will and Kate’s wed­ that are able to trace the stones ding it did gather guests from all and pearls we buy. This helps over the world. us ensure the stones and pearls “We are from opposite sides of we use are not acquired through the globe, Iceland and Australia, methods that may be harmful to and our special little group of either people or the environment. friends and family came from We only use recycled precious Australia, Germany, Iceland, India metals as we believe them to be and the United States,” says Krist­ the most ethically and ecologi­ ján. Coincidentally Kristján and cally sustainable option for us.” Ivonne used the same materials for their rings as Kate and Prince A royal wedding day William; diamonds and sapphires. The year before the Queen’s Needless to say, the groom jubilee another royal event gath­ designed and made the ring he ered worldwide attention; the put on his wife’s finger on their Royal Wedding of Prince William special day. and Kate Middleton. A funny coincidence is that Kristján and For more information and lots more his wife Ivonne got married that pictures we recommend a visit to www.kristjaneyjolfsson.com.

A ring from Kristjáns Cathedral collection.

Very nice Vegamót

Compass ring from the Vikingur collection. The all-in -one restaurant “We are from opposite sides of the globe, Ice- This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the land and Australia, and our special little group heart of Reykjavík on Vegamótastígur, close to Laugavegur. The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of of friends and family came from ­Australia, its wonderful quality of being an all-in-one, restaurant, café, bar Germany, Iceland, India and the United and nightclub. You‘ll never want to leave! States,” says Kristján. Here the decor is rich on the Mediterranean side and yet ele­ gant with a jazzy ambiance. In the summertime tables are moved outside to the sheltered terrace, probably one of the hottest places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very reasonable prices for quality, portions and presentation and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent desserts – if they make it that far. Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste.

On The Rocks. Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 I 101 Reykjavík Tel: 511 3040 [email protected] I www.vegamot.is

Issue 1 ı 49 Crazy for Kria Influenced by nature and history

By Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos: Kria

Jewelry designer Jóhanna Methúsalemsdóttir was recently nom­inated for a cultural award in Iceland. Her work has appear­ed in maga­­zines such as Elle, Marie Claire and Vogue and television series such Gossip Girl. While Jóhanna has lived in New York for years, her designs are heavily influenced by Iceland’s nature and history. Her current collection is call­ed The Cod Collection and is “the study of the [cod] fish which has sustained Icelandic culture for centuries”. Jóhanna told us a little about where and how she be­­gan and where her inspirations came from.

How did you get started doing mostly are my family and friends the work you’re doing today? and the beautiful nature!” “I was an intern for Me & Ro Jew­elry a long time ago when What are your current favorite they first began, and back then Icelandic artists or designers? I took some classes at FIT. But “In design, I feel that Aftur is for the most part, this has been do­ing very good things and I an instinctive process of will. I love what they stand for. I like have been making jewelry pretty Mundi and Reylabel, too. Also, much since I was little but Kria I have always been a fan of the came to me around 2007 with artists Gabriella Friðriks­­ dóttir,­­ the birth of my second daughter.” Sigrún Hrólfsdóttir and the Love Corporation.” Photo: Elísabet Davíðs What inspires your designs? “It all started on a beach in Ice­ land when I discovered a skele­ ton of a bird by the same name, the Kria. It is one of the furthest migrating animals in the world. I took it home and started playing with its individual bones, and as I did I began paying closer attent­­ ion to repeated shapes in nature and figuring out how to wear them. That’s when I decided that I would continue to make jew­ elry for a long time.”

You’ve lived in the US for a long time, what do you miss most about Iceland? “I have been in New York for 25 years now and what I miss Photo: Elísabet Davíðs

Check out more of Jóhanna’s designs on www.kriajewelry.com and www.kriajewelry.bigcartel.com.

50 ı WOW is in the air Promotion

Influenced by nature and history

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Issue 1 ı 51 More reading

The momentum of Icelandic literature

By Björn Teitsson Photos: Ernir Eyjólfsson and others Halldór Guðmundsson is something of an authority on Ice­ landic literature, having worked in the publishing industry since 1984 and applied his expertise­ extensively as a scholar and lecturer. His biography of Nobel laureate Halldór Laxness received the Icelandic Literary Prize in 2004 and became a best-seller. In 2011, when Iceland was selected to be the guest of honor at the Frankfurt Book Fair—the largest of its kind in the world—Halldór was chosen to direct the project, standing right in the center of the action as Iceland was cata­ pulted into the limelight of the international literary scene. We met up with Halldór Guðmundsson in Harpa, Reykjavík’s new concert hall and conference center, where he recently took office as managing director.

Do you think it is easier now—in in 2011. The best way to mea­ the wake of the 2011 Frankfurt sure the success of the project Book Fair—for Icelandic authors to date is to point out that there to gain a wider audience in the has been a huge increase in ap­ international literary market? plications to translate Icelandic authors. That, in itself, is tangible “Yes, I am sure that is the case. In evidence of a rise in international fact, I know it is so. It is difficult in interest.” some sense to assess the project as a whole, since only a year has The last decade or so has seen passed since the Book Fair itself. thrillers and crime novels as On the one hand, there was a the biggest Icelandic literary decline in published material exports. Do you feel that there from Icelandic authors in 2012, is too much emphasis on that for example in the German mark­ specific genre? Or are authors et. But that is because German­­ simply answering the demand publishers capitalized on the me­ of the market? dia coverage Iceland got in 2011; many publishers postponed “Perhaps this can be partly ex­ their 2010 scheduled releases plained by demand. But if we in order to utilize the press look back through history, there surrounding the Book Fair. So was never a literary tradition there was an unusual amount of in the genre of crime novels in material from Icelandic authors Iceland. Very few authors took it being published internationally upon themselves to experiment

52 ı WOW is in the air with the form, and it never really the ones that sell most. When I gained any momentum. Crime was younger the most popular novels and pulp fiction were very author in Iceland was Alistair Ma­ popular in Iceland, but they were cLean. The best-selling author in mostly translated works. The early Germany was someone relatively ‘90 however saw a certain shift unknown outside of Germany, in the international book market. Karl May—and he wrote stories Two novels, “Sophie’s World” by about Indians! Popular fiction is al­ Jostein Gaarder and “Smilla’s ways going to be in high demand, Sense of Snow” by Peter Høeg, although we must realize that were published in Scandi­navia some of these authors are actual­ and both became massive ly walking the tightrope between international hits. These novels ‘popular’ and ‘serious’ fiction. For were, in a sense, thrillers and example, I have always consid­ they brought about a new focus ered Arnaldur Indriðason to This gem, situated in the heart of Reykjavík, offers a on the Nordic countries, taking be a serious novelist. I noticed homey Mediterranean atmosphere along with great over the throne from, arguably, dur­­ing the year of the “Fabulous food from the freshest ingredients. South America. At the turn of Iceland” project at the Book Fair, The pizza oven at Caruso is legendary as well as the the century, the Swedish crime that increased interest in his pizzas and everything from pasta to amazing steak and novelist, Henning Mankell, sudd­ novels—and say, the novels of fish dishes are prepared with love and respect. enly became the biggest-selling Yrsa Sigurðardóttir—tend to give Be sure to try the delicious homemade chocolate cake. Nordic author, which only goes other authors a boost and they Some say it’s the best in town. to show that the authors within help to bring a focus to Icelandic the genre have witnessed a huge literature in general. It doesn’t increase in interest. This may matter whether you are trying to have led some authors, who were break into the German-, Spanish- perhaps interested in the form, to or English­ -speaking market. Just turn their attention to honing their that there is an author out there skills therein. The international who has made a name for himself attention on thrillers and crime can lead readers in the direction novels has functioned as encour­ of the next. In that sense, the agement, that maybe this was the crime novelists have really been Promotion right time to “give it a go.” Just pulling the load.” look at all the media coverage, advertisements and numbers But are Icelandic authors of ‘se­ of published work in the genre rious’ fiction also doingwell? today. We see a lot of talented writers trying to master the form “Certainly. What I find most inter­ and many of them have become esting is the fact that different au­ quite good at it. The opportuni­ thors are gaining an international ties are there. Take an author like audience in different places. We Arnaldur Indriðason for example, have Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir, who he would have to publish conse­ has done extremely well in the cutive best-sellers in Iceland for French-speaking market. Hall­ 30 years in order to sell the same grímur Helgason has done well amount of books that he does in especially in Germany, Ólafur a year in Germany or France.” Jóhann Ólafsson has achieved success in the North American Can this development, this focus market. There is no rule of thumb on crime novels, be seen as as to where one is most likely to de­trimental to authors of other succeed. My feeling is that the types of fiction? most important factor for up-and- coming authors is simply to write “As far as I can tell, that has not as well as they possibly can - as been the case. I have actually simple as that sounds. Chances given this serious thought and I are that they will be noticed. At know that there are authors out the moment, we have young there who are growing tired of authors who may very well be the attention and publicity crime on their way and it would not novelists receive. But this is in sur­­prise me at all if some of them fact how the market has always were to achieve international been. There are always going to success. Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl is be some novels that turn up once one of them, Kristín Eiríksdóttir in a while to become best-sell­ is another. I think the success of ers—novels that could be called the “Fabulous Iceland” project, “serious,” but generally speaking, as well as the general success popular forms of fiction are always of Icelandic authors in recent Caruso Þingholtsstræti 1 I 101 Reykjavík I Reservations: 562 7335 or email [email protected] I Fax: 561 7334 Take an author like Arnaldur Indriðason for Open: Mondays - Thursdays: 11:30-22:30 Fridays: 11:30-23:30 example, he would have to publish consecutive­ Saturdays: 12:00-23:30 Sundays: 17:00-22:00 best-sellers in Iceland for 30 years in order to sell the same amount of books that he does in a On weekends live music is played by our famous classic guitar year in Germany or France.” player Símon H Ívarsson creating an unforgettable ambience.

Issue 1 ı 53 years will result in international and at the same time you con­ tives from the city came to an active part in the ICORN publishers having their eyes on struct an image of your reader. Frankfurt to plead their case. (International­­ Cities of Refuge Iceland.” But you cannot be contemplat­ What makes this especially Network) project where perse­ ing at the same time: “Well I pleasant is the fact that we have cuted writers are offered a safe Do you think Icelandic authors wond­er what someone in is been running the Reykjavík haven to live and work. This has are now writing with an interna­ going to feel about that.” International Literary Festival in turn led to another prestigious tional audience in mind? since 1987, and I know that was honor, that of having PEN, the This year, Reykjavík was an important factor, and now, the worldwide association of writers, “That might be: probably. And design­­ated as UNESCO City of city is increasing its support for choose Reykjavík as the venue some of them haven’t really Literature. Do you think the city the festival. But I also feel that for its annual world congress been trying to hide it. Not too owes this honor to the “Fabu­ the city has managed to make in 2013. To me, this is one of long ago Hallgrímur Helgason lous Iceland” project? the project their own, especially the symbols of the momentum even wrote a novel in Icelandic in their emphasis on freedom Icelandic literature is enjoying at and English at the same time. “Well, I would not take any credit of expression. They have taken the moment.” Others would simply say that for that designation. But I’m very they write for themselves and pleased by it. This was approved For further information about “Fabulous Iceland,” visit: www. nobody else. In general, I find by UNESCO in the fall of 2011, sagenhaftes-island.is/en. The site offers extensive coverage on that you always construct an so it went hand in hand with Icelandic literature, authors, biographies and updates on new image of yourself as a storyteller Fabulous Iceland. Representa­ translations, interviews and reports.

Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir. We Recommend:

Auður Ava Ólafsdóttir An art historian by trade, Auður did not enter the literary scene until the age of 40. Since publishing her first novel, “Raised Earth,” in 1998, she has been highly praised by critics for her artistic approach to her subjects, introspective style and humor. “The Greenhouse,” published in 2007, won the prestigious DV Culture Award and was also nominated for the Nordic Council’s Literature Prize.

Sjón. Sjón While still a teenager, Sjón was one of the founding members of Medúsa, an influential surrealist art group in Iceland. He has experimented with different genres—even writing lyrics to pop songs—and was nominated for an Academy Award for writing the lyrics to “I’ve Seen It All” for Lars Von Trier’s “Dancer in the Dark”. Sjón received the Nordic Council’s Literature Prize in 2005 for his novel “The Blue Fox”.

Kristín Ómarsdóttir With a catalogue that spans the spectrum of literature—including poetry, plays, short stories and novels—Kristín Ómarsdóttir has Kristín Ómarsdóttir. been at the forefront of the Icelandic literary landscape for over two decades. Highly decorated for her work, she received the DV Culture Award for her novel Elskan mín, ég dey (“I’ll Die, My Love”). Her 2004 novel “Here,” was published in the U.S. in 2011 and received critical acclaim in the New York Book Review.

Andri Snær Magnason Starting his literary career as a poet, Andri Snær Magnason took Iceland by storm with his 1999 children’s book Sagan af bláa hnettinum (“The Story of the Blue Planet”), the first children’s book to receive the Icelandic Literary Prize. Andri is also author of “Dreamland: A Self-Help Manual for a Frightened Nation,” for which he received the Icelandic Literary Prize in 2006 in the genre of non-fiction. His highly acclaimed dystopian novel, “Lovestar,” was Stefán Máni. recently translated into English.

Stefán Máni With something of an unusual background—having worked in various fields such as fishing, stonemasonry, construction and Andri Snær Magnason. garden­ ing—Stefán­ Máni has unexpectedly become one of the most popular authors in Iceland. His no-nonsense style has garnered well-deserved attention, as he explores the darkest and most cor­ rupt corners of the mind. His 2004 novel, Svartur á leik (“Black’s Game”) was produced as a motion picture in 2012.

54 ı WOW is in the air

A trip to remember Every country has it´s display of souvenirs and they want you to buy them. These things usually look good but when you get home you might find that they do not mix well with the rest of your décor. So, how to choose from the endless array of souvenirs and things to take home from your trip? What do people really treasure from their trips abroad and how can we learn from their experience?

by Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Photos: Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir

56 ı WOW is in the air esigner Ingibjörg Hanna most of them home because they did not fit Bjarna­­dóttir is well travelled my luggage. The traditional Ningyō doll was and enjoys visiting foreign one of the gifts I received and it is the trea­ countries. She has her own sure I love most. I have many pretty things label, IHANNA, and designs from my stay in Japan but I think this doll is beautiful things such as the the most beautiful and it has also been an Dvery popular Krummi bird hanger. inspiration for one of the designs made by Growing up with parents with a travel bug my collaboration with my friend and fellow certainly made it´s mark on her. “My parents designer Halla Björk Kristjánsdóttir. The took me and my siblings along on their trips de­­sign is a three-dimensional display box and I guess we were lucky in that respect. called Frame It and is ideal for favorite things This has inspired me to travel as a grown like these that can be difficult to display in up and now besides travelling I am also so the home but still need a place of honor or a fortunate to attend design shows overseas niche. Now my Ningyō doll has it´s place in where I present my label and designs.” the frame that was designed for it.”

Frame It display box and other designs made by IHANNA can be found in design shops such as Epal and Kraum. What does Ingibjörg buy as souvenirs when she goes abroad? “My parents started collecting national cost­ ume dolls on my behalf when I was young and I still buy those dolls when I visit foreign countries but only when they are of good quality. I also search for specially designed ar­ ticles for myself, such as jewelry or clothes.” Ingibjörg’s favorite souvenir comes from Japan where she stayed for five weeks as a part of the Lions International Youth Ex­ change Program. “Japanese love giving gifts and the tradition of gift giving is very strong. I stayed with four different families in Japan and received so many gifts that I had to mail Good ideas from Iceland Cool designers on fire

Wheel of Nutrition The Wheel of Nutrition is a dining plate that promotes healthy, nutritious eating habits. It’s an archetypical ceramic plate enhanced with explanatory graphics and distinctive colors. The plate is a Fair trade production, manufactured by Portuguese porcelain Tulipop is the creation of designer, Signý factory, Porcel. It’s made of fine porcelain Kolbeinsdóttir. The company’s newest with an emphasis on pure, quality materials. design is a lamp called Mr. Tree, meant for Porcel relies on the rich regional Portuguese both children and adults. Mr. Tree comes heritage of porcelain craftsmanship and from the magical and colorful world of Tuli­ imports pure quality clay materials from Li­ pop. And he’s not alone; the world of Tulipop moges, France. The plate is dishwasher and is filled with fun and interesting characters microwave safe. Designed by Rui Pereira & such as Gloomy, Monsieur Bubbi and Skully. Hafsteinn Juliusson, it comes with a conve­ More on www.tulipop.com nient stand. More on hafsteinnjuliusson.com.

Postulína Designer duo Guðbjörg Káradóttir and Ólöf Jakobína Ernudóttir at Postulína premiered these beautiful and bubbly flower vases during DesignMarch 2012. These 24 karat gold coated vases are called Marimo. Find Postulína on Facebook or visit www.gudbjorgkaradottir.com

Farmers Market Farmers Market is an Icelandic design company, founded in 2005 by designer Bergthora Gudnadottir and musician Joel Notknot Palsson. The idea was to utilize one of the “The inspiration for Notknot originally came most organic materials available – unique from scout knotting,” says designer Ragn­ Icelandic wool, with other raw, natural mate­ heiður Ösp at Umemi. “I’ve been fascinated rials such as silk and leather, to create a line by knots, the process of knotting and their of multifunctional clothing and accessories. purpose, for some time now. After studying Authentically styled, sophisticated and wear­ scout, nautical and decorative knots I began able, the clothing is suited for a wide range playing with the sizes and examined the of occasions including outdoor activities outcome of changing their textures and pur­ and city life. The style has been described pose. Depending on the material the hard as revitalized Icelandic traditional design, and tightly tied knot could appear soft and combining Nordic design elements with chic cozy and its purpose of being strong and se­ modernity in lightweight apparel. Farmers cure can change to be comforting and warm, Market clothing and accessories are sold in all the while holding its decorative value.” selected shops in Europe, Japan and the US, Find out more about Umemi’s creations on including concept stores, fashion boutiques www.umemi.com. and an occasional ski resort.

58 ı WOW is in the air Kraum Sizzling hot designs in the oldest house in Reykjavik In the year 1762 a man named Skúli Magnússon, then governor of Iceland, had a vision. He wanted to create jobs and industry for Icelanders, who at that time were under Danish rule. He built a house at Aðalstræti 10 which he intended to house a factory where yarn would be made from Icelandic sheep wool. By Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos: Myriam Marti

He’d be happy to know that today all made from fish skin, which has been have been a staple of Icelandic cuisine these years later, the house he built processed into leather in a factory in for centur­ies. For those interested in still stands and is serving the function the north of Iceland. A stool made from learning more about traditional Ice­ he intended it for. It is not a wool fact­ sheep’s wool is quick to catch the eye land­ic food Kraum also has for sale a ory but Aðalstræti 10, the oldest house as it resembles an Icelandic sheep. It’s cook­book filled with recipes of what in Reykjavik, is now the home of a called fuzzy, named after a small Latin Icelanders often refer to as “mom’s store which features the works of over troll, and was first designed by an Ice­ cooking” sprinkled with interesting old 200 Icelandic artists, designers and landic furniture maker some 40 years pictures taken in Icelandic kitchens craftsmen. The store is called Kraum. ago. It became fashionable then and through the years. The name is a reference to the word has now made a comeback. It folds This oldest house of the city, located “kraumandi” which in English trans­ up quite easily for those who choose on the old­­est street and filled with new lates to sizzling, a reference to the siz­ to invest in a sheep like creature as a exciting designs is definitely a place zling creativity and ideas of the artists’ memorabilia from their Iceland visit. worth visiting. minds. The collection of items for sale Kraum has also started designs is as versa­tile as the number of people under its own name. The first Kraum whose work is featured there. To name designed item was a new twist on the Kraum a few it features clothing (often made traditional Icelandic pancake pan. It Aðalstræti 10 I Tel: 517 7797 from Icelandic wool) books, jewelry, started last March when five Iceland­ Open: Mondays – Fridays: 9:00- furniture, pancake pans, soaps and ic designers were asked to create 19:00 Saturdays: 10:00-18:00 cosmetics. Amongst all the fascinating their version of a new handle for the Sundays: 12:00-18:00 things one will find in Kraum are shoes traditional pan. Icelandic pancakes

Promotion

Issue 1 ı 59 Sigtryggur Baldursson recently took over as manager of IMX, Iceland Music Export. No stranger to the music business, Baldursson has been Listen now… a professional musician since the late ‘80s. He was a member of the first internationally renowned band to come out of Iceland, , and has also recorded as a solo artist and as a percussionist for various artists and bands. Now enjoying an office job, Baldursson is putting to good use the social network he has acquired throughout his years in the music business – for the benefit of aspiring Icelandic musicians.

By Björn Teitsson Photos: Kristinn Magnússon and Jónatan Grétarsson

You don’t have to be a sell-out

ur goal is to “We own the company IA, Being pro-active It’s constantly evolving and art­ export­­ Icelandic which runs the Iceland Airwaves Baldursson has an unusual per­ ists have become much more music and a festival.­­ We are also working spective for a man in his position. pro-active in getting their names lot of our work with other festivals around the He was a member of The Sugar­ out there.” revolves­ around country, trying to take advantage cubes, a band that made it big gathering­ and of some of the experience we in late ‘80s. He now devotes his No compromises are Odistributing information.­­ This have gathered here. By that, we efforts to emerging artists, mak­ always “In” means that we need to distribute want to elevate the concept of ing it easier for them to achieve It is not uncommon to hear information to Icelandic artists “music-oriented tourism.” Tómas what he has already achieved. someone­­ from an international about the jungle, that is the Young, a member of our staff, is “Things have changed record label, or a member of the international­­­ music industry, and currently working on a report for immensely. Of course, I still music-press, say something like also gat­­her information about the Icelandic Tourist Board, to understand­­­­ the perspective of a “Iceland is very happening at the Icelandic artists. We maintain determine the growth potential work­­ing artist although I´m not moment.” Is this something Ice­ two websites, one in Icelandic of music festivals outside of running my own band. It is often landic musicians are aiming at? and the other in English. The Reykjavik. Take for example, easier to promote other people “I think it is by no means a Icelandic one is obviously aimed Eistna­­flug, a metal-music festival than yourself. I still play but conscious effort. The reason why at Icelandic artists where we with a very clear focal point. these days mostly for back-up, the music scene here is growing offer guidance in applications Such a festival has enormous as a percussionist. That´s all. It is basically because it tends for music festivals, information potential to grow further. At the is interesting however, to see to come naturally. There is no about concert bookings abroad moment it takes place in the mid­ the direction we are taking with centralized authority behind the as well as keep artists informed dle of summer,­­ but why shouldn’t music oriented tourism. This scenes telling people what to about key information regarding it also be in the middle of winter? means that Icelandic artists can do. We at IMX are certainly not their trade. The English site is a Just imagine, “The darkest achieve international recogni­ doing that. our role is simply to de facto information center about metal-festi­val in the world!” tion, even though they are based help the artists help themselves. Icelandic music. Its purpose is to There are of course many more in Iceland. Since IMX started, It should function as the oil to make it easier for people in the cases where it’s possible to ex­ back in 2007, the goal has always the engine of this industry. That’s music industry gain access to pand on a good idea. One of the been to make it easier for the how it has functioned and that’s Icelandic artists. We have gath­ biggest success stories in these musicians. We are organizing how I think it should function. ered information about every music festivals has been the lectures about touring and we concert performance by Icelan­ anarchical ‘Aldrei fór ég suður’ travel to music festivals to build dic bands abroad, divided the [I never went south] festival, in up our network of contacts. This artists by genres; did basically the northwest corner of Iceland. network has become somewhat everything we could to make it The do it yourself mentality of of a tightly woven quilt. Festivals easier to make contacts.” that festival is inspiring, gaining like Iceland Airwaves give us To learn more about much admiration from both the opportunity to bring in the Behind the scenes at ordinary Icelanders and people right contacts, the press, the Icelandic music, please music festivals in the music industry. And we agents, record label executives, visit the website of IMX IMX does not focus solely on its try to pro­­mote these festivals by booking agents ... There is a (www.icelandmusic. role as an information center. importing key members of the steady increase­ in the number of is) where you can find It is also the owner of the com­ music press, thereby creating Icelandic artists who are making weekly news updates, exposure for Icelandic­­­ artists international record deals. It is pany that operates the largest artists’ biographies, Icelandic music festival, Iceland – without even leaving the very pleasing to see these results Airwaves, and is also committed country. Iceland Airwaves is a but they can in no way be solely concert listings to spreading the reputation of diff­­erent story altogether. It has credited to our work at IMX. There and information smaller, local festivals through­ grown to something completely is simply this common mentality on Icelandic music out the country. self-sufficient that we hardly that seems to be flourishing festivals. need to pay any attention to.” within the Icelandic music scene.

60 ı WOW is in the air Issue 1 ı 61 “The thing is, this brand that Look at Iceland Airwaves, the Icelandic music has become is costs involved with the festival are something that was created by huge, and there is a real effort in music enthusiasts and music making it ever more artist friendly journalists abroad – not locally. by improving payments to artists Recommend: There was no marketing bureau and catering. A lot of the cost is We that found out that this or that funneled into importing people Oyama Founded in 2012, the five-piece shoe­ would work. It has been created of inter­national importance to gaze band, Oyama has received plenty because most successful artists the music scene. Of course the of well-deserved attention. Draw­ing have done their music on their tourism industry reaps a lot of the from ’80s trailblazers such as Dinosaur own terms. These are artists that benefits by receiving so many Jr. and My Bloody Valentine, their con­ have become known for doing it foreign guests. But what we certs are loud and fuzzy. Their shows ‘their way’ without compromising are doing is trying to create an during Iceland Airwaves this year were their artistic integrity. Take Björk environment where musicians can highly successful, and they have now for example, she has never sold network and make international signed with international booking agen­ cy, Projekta. Oyama is in the process of any of her compositions for adver­ deals giving them a chance to wid­ recording their debut album. tising purposes. She has denied en their audience. Every recording www.oyamayo.tumblr.com copious sums of money, because artist should be happy with that. I www.facebook.com/oyamaband she chooses to do things her own mean, there are always some artists way.” who are fine staying in the corner, Sóley happy in their own little world. And A long time collaborator and band Too commercial? there is always going to be this de­ member of Sindri Sigfússon’s band bate; where to draw the line in the Seabear, Sóley was not initially at the TAKE THE But all this publicity must lead to clash between artistic integrity and center of attention. When German the assumption that the Icelandic marketing. This goes for everyone­­ record label executive Thomas Morr music scene is being commercial­ who works in the creative fields. asked her if she had any songs of her own, however, the wheels were set in ized. Could it be that too much But you have to know the market, motion. Sóley has emerged as some­ commercialization can hurt the you can’t just stand by not know­ thing of a star on YouTube, some of her reputation of Icelandic artists? ing anything about your career or videos having been viewed as often as simply not having a say about it. 9 million times. She is now spending her “Probably, and that is why we This is our working environment early winter as the opening act for the WARMTH are working this way. We are not and it is better to familiarize our­ hit band, Of Monsters and Men. trying to commercialize anything. selves. And you don’t have to be a www.soleysoley.com WOOL We are first and foremost trying sell-out to achieve success. I think www.facebook.com/soleysoleysoley to support up and coming artists. the careers of Björk and Sigur­ SWEATERS, Of course there are always going rós have proven that you can do Sykur to be people who think that there things your own way, with great Beginning their career in 2009 while ACCESSORIES, is too much marketing involved. success.” still in high school, Sykur has emerged BLANKETS, as one of the most exciting bands WITH in Iceland. Their catchy electro-pop tunes have gotten extensive airplay on TRADITIONAL Icelandic radio and their concerts are becoming a cult phenomenon. Drawing CRAFTS & influences from the world of fashion and pop art, they can be seen as MODERN electro-music’s answer to Bryan Ferry. Sykur recently signed a record deal with ART British-based label Wall of Sound. YOU! www.sykur.com www.facebook.com/sykurtheband

Sísý Ey Founded in 2011, Sísý Ey is a family Hjaltalín with a pleasant surprise affair. Members are sisters Elín, Elísabet www.alafoss.is and Sigríður Eyþórsdóttir, all of them 1896 The band with the funny sounding name, Hjaltalín, has become one of Iceland’s most having previously performed and record­ celebrated bands. Their 2009 album, Terminal, was a huge success and was design­ ed as solo artists. Gathered together by ated as album of the year at the Icelandic Music Awards. Now they have released their their friend and now band mana­- third studio album, Enter 4, having kept the release a closely guarded secret from ­g­er, Carmen Johannsdóttir, they have the music press, right until the day of release. We met up with Bassoon player set their minds on singing live house Rebekka Björnsdóttir, who also produc­ed the music video to the first single of the music. The band was completed by the album “Lucifer/He Felt Like a Woman.” addition of Oculus, a producer and DJ. Did you approach this record differently than you did with your previous ones? Sísý Ey’s live shows have received much “Yeah, I think with our previous records we kind of just went for it. We got into the studio praise, where few, if any, manage to with the clear intention of cutting an album, and the recordings didn’t really take much escape without serious sweat. time. For this one, we’ve been recording in various places - in a summerhouse in the www.facebook.com/sisyey country, in Sundlaugin studio, in the community center in the town of Garður ... We recorded a lot of material during the last two years and suddenly we realized that we had enough quality on there to go ahead and release an album.” Ásgeir Trausti ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23 - MOSFELLSBÆR Many of you live abroad, while others have careers that call for much travelling. Did The fairytale of Ásgeir Trausti’s rise it affect the process of the album that you are rarely all in Iceland at the same time? to local stardom began last summer, OPEN: MON. - FRI. 9.00 - 18.00 SAT. 9:00 - 16:00 “It did affect the process of course, but not in a bad way, not at all. All of us are travel- with two hit-singles, “Leyndarmál” and ling a lot and some even have careers outside of music. I’m working in film. We have “Sumargestur”. When his debut album, LAUGAVEGUR 8 CITY CENTRE an economist and an airplane pilot. I think the distance from each other gives us a “Dýrð í dauðaþögn”, finally dropped wider perspective and greater appreciation for what we are doing with Hjaltalín. The joy in September, Ásgeir had already OPEN: 10:00 - 18:00 of jamming together when we get the chance is immense. I think this album is much, more managed to break all existing pre-sale straightforward, and I mean that in the best sense.” records—all this at the tender age of Can Hjaltalín fans expect to see you performing live in the near future? 20. Ásgeir plans to release his album in “Our official release concert for the new album is scheduled for the 21st of December English in 2013. and then we’ll have to wait and see. The joy of playing together is always present, but we www.facebook.com/asgeirtrausti do have to respect each other’s schedules. Hopefully a lot of people will get to see us.”

62 ı WOW is in the air TAKE THE WARMTH WOOL SWEATERS, ACCESSORIES, WITH BLANKETS, TRADITIONAL CRAFTS & MODERN YOU! ART www.alafoss.is 1896

ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23 - MOSFELLSBÆR OPEN: MON. - FRI. 9.00 - 18.00 SAT. 9:00 - 16:00 LAUGAVEGUR 8 CITY CENTRE OPEN: 10:00 - 18:00 Dat app!

Get around town with this brand new taxi-app This is probably one of the more useful apps if you need a lift. The iTaxi application uses your location to find the nearest available taxi and then sends it to you. By Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Photos: Ernir Eyjólfsson

t can be difficult for a foreign­ “Today I have a new programm­ er to pronounce some of er and my whole day goes into the Icelandic street names checking the app for glitches, (ok almost all of them) and making contacts, doing inter­ sometimes people don´t even views and telling my programm­ Iknow where they are. Now, with er of anything that needs to be a few clicks you can get a taxi to changed. But I still drive my taxi your location and you don´t have on the weekends. to wrap your tongue around street names such as Þorláks­ How does this work? geisli, Bræðraborgarstígur, Muru­ “Every taxi driver willing to take rimi­­ and Háaleitisbraut. You can part has an iTaxi driver’s app in even monitor your taxi´s progress. his phone and receives his calls, The iTaxi App was created or “hails” through it. When a by seasoned taxi driver Jón passenger calls a taxi and a taxi Norðfjörð Kristjánsson and his driver responds, their phones partners at P84 development are connected which allows the and it serves every taxi driver passenger to follow his taxi’s willing to partake in the project. progress on a map and the iTaxi is free of charge and availa­ same goes for the driver. This ble for both Android and iPhone. mak­es everything work much We met up with Jón and made faster. The app eliminates taxi him walk a mile in the shoes of drivers waiting outside a party his apps users. He was more for passengers who forget to than willing as he is confident in check out the window every his program and its benefits to minute and as a passenger you both travelers and taxi drivers. know when your taxi is coming. It also shortens the waiting period­ Where did this idea come from? for the passenger as the nearest “One day I was driving a passeng­ available cab, regardless of its sta­ er who lost his iPod. I watched tion, will always be sent to him. as the lady took up her phone and used an app to find it again. How did the drivers respond to And I thought to myself ‘There’s this new technology? got to be a way to locate taxis in To be honest I expected them a similar manner’. I started looking­ to be more open-minded but I around and found two apps that hadn’t thought about the possi­ fit this description but I could bilities this app had for eliminat­ never access them to find out ing taxi stations. That was never how or if they really work­ed. I got my intention. The app’s purpose in contact with one developer is to help drivers get passengers and tried getting their program and passengers to get their for the Icelandic market but cabs sooner. It has no relation to that never came through. After any taxi station and every driver a while I decided to make the is welcome to use it. To the best application on my own and I of my knowledge all of the sta­ held onto this idea for maybe tions in Iceland have given their 1 ½ years. Then, by a series of drivers the green light for using coincidences I came in contact this app. And when you think of with a programmer who wanted it all this comes down to giving to work with me and we started the passenger the best service working on this project together. possible. The app also eliminates the strain on the telephone lines Going places! Jón Norðfjörð takes the role during weekend rush hours when of one of his apps’ users. everyone is trying to get a cab.

64 ı WOW is in the air In the settings menu, type in your phone number. This only needs to be done the first time you use the app.

1. 2. 3. 4. When you turn on the app it finds you Press “Request” and the app takes Set an accurate location by Hail the taxi by pressing “Send Request”. on the map. Use the magnifying glass you to the next step for GPS accuracy. running your finger on the You will receive a message from the driver to find an available iTaxi. The app Press the globe to get a screen (only necessary when that he has accepted your request. Now automatically finds you the satellite view hailing from inside a house). you are able to follow your taxi in real time nearest iTaxi Press “Set Location”. on his way to your location. When he gets there you will receive a message “Your driver is here”.

Does this app only work in did so, but with some restric­ Do you have other apps in the Reykjavík? tions on how these programs making? No, it is designed to work any­ should work. To my knowledge “I have a few ideas and my aim where in the world. If the drivers iTaxi is now the only application is always directed toward the are willing the program will that meets these requirements. users. I am not in this to fill my work. Most hailing apps I have We will have to make one small pockets. Many apps today seem found seem to work only within adjustment before putting it on designed to throw ads at their For iPhone. For Android. certain geographical limitations the market there and that is to users. If any of my ideas become but iTaxi is for everywhere. make sure the users’ phone usable apps in the future I For example, the New York number can’t be seen by the want them to be beneficial for Taxi and Limousine Commission driver. That will happen in our everyone.” Jón told us some of Pedir Taxi con estè app. closed the door on all hailing next update. Also this program his grand ideas for new apps Commande un taxi avec apps but after seeing the results has never and will never collect and swore us to secrecy. If any cette appli-cation. of a poll among smart-phone us­ information on the users to sell of them become reality we can’t Bestelle einen Taxi mit ers, whereSB_business_front.ai 70% said they want ­ 9/26/07it to a third9:41:10 party. PM I will always wait to try them out and tell our diesem App. ed to use these kinds of apps, protect the users’ privacy. readers all about it. Bestill en taxe med den App. they had to open it again. They

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Get burger and beer and receive Try our delicious food and receive a 15% discount 15% discount on all food Just take a picture and show it or cut this out Just taka a picture and show it or cut this out Hressó is a popular bar/café/restaurant Bjarni Fel is a popular sportbar on the and is on the main street in downtown main street in downtown Reykjavík. Reykjavik. Hressó offers a big menu with We have 15 HD flat screen TV’s and everthing from breakfast to desserts. Our the capacity of showing up to 10 Todays specials always include traditional different events simultaneously and Icelandic cuisine like lamb and fish. On over 1700 TV channels. We offer good weekends Hressó offers live music and food and friendly service in one of the after that you can experience the true oldest café in Reykjavík natur of Reykjavík’s famous nightlife. Austurstræti 20 - 101 Reykjavík - 561 2240 Austurstræti 20 - 101 Reykjavík - 561 2240 66 ı WOW is in the air Aim for the sky The WOW Stars

WOW air is proud to present WOW Stars Annie Mist Þórisdóttir and Jón Margeir 1:59:62 minutes. He beat his opponent by 17 Sverrisson. The people chosen are individuals who have done something WOW hundredths of a second. His next goal is to worthy and are good role models and inspirations to others. Both Annie Mist and compete both in the Olympics and Paralym­ Jón Margeir have set world records this year, she is the first woman to earn the pics in Rio 2016. He has already met the qualifications for the 1500 meter crawl swim. world championship in CrossFit two years in a row and Jón Margeir set the world According to Jón the moment of victory was record at the Paralympics in 200 meter freestyle swim as well as winning the gold. an unforgettable one, a memory he said he would forever treasure. Jón Margeir practices 9-10 times a week WOW air´s goal is to help its stars reach After winning the CrossFit world games in and admitted that he rewards himself with their goals by sponsoring their internation­ 2012 she became the first person to win the ice cream after every record. We’re guessing al travels. Skúli Mogensen, CEO of WOW games two years in a row. Winning the com­ he had a few of those at the Paralympics. air says: “Iceland has so many noteworthy petition earned her the title “The fittest wom­ He also got a tattoo of the Paralympics logo people doing good things in art, sports and an on earth”. She let it slip out that after her after setting his World record. If getting culture that it’s really unbelievable. Annie win she went to The Cheesecake Fact­ory inked is his next celebratory tradition he will Mist and Jón Margeir have definitely earned where she enjoyed more than one desert. probably have to visit the tattoo parlor a few the title of WOW Stars and we’re proud We think she totally deserved that! more times – we at least, have high hopes to sponsor them because they really are You can’t expect a girl like that to be single. for more records and more ice cream. inspira­tional role models and have shown Annie met her boyfriend, Frederik Ægidius that it is possible to reach your goals and from Denmark while they were both com­ have your dreams come true.” peting in CrossFit, although Frederik’s main sport is American football. Annie says it has been encouraging competing at the same time as Frederik. Annie is on the Rebok’s CrossFit team and tests clothes and materials for Rebok’s design team. With Rebok she designed her own shoes for the 2012 games, which had the colors of the Icelandic flag: red, white and blue.

Annie Mist Annie Mist started doing CrossFit two The latest star of WOW Check out our latest WOW Star. You months prior to the CrossFit Games in 2009. probably already did. He is on the cover Before CrossFit she practiced gymnastics, and his name is Baltasar Kormákur. Actu­­ ballet, pole vaulting and Bootcamp. Her diet ally, this is more of an honorary title for is healthy foods and minimally processed Baltasar, he doesn’t need the WOW Star goods. She also aims to eat a lot of high sponsorship or free tickets to anywhere. qu­ality protein, some of which comes from The real WOW Stars here are the up Icelandic dairy products. “We have a lot of and coming filmmakers of Iceland whom really clean dairy products here in Iceland.” Balt­asar is a benefactor to through his When Annie Mist competed in her first Jón Margeir product­ion companies in Iceland. The CrossFit tournament in Iceland it was on When Jón Margeir Sverrison won the gold WOW Star sponsorship will be used the same day she’d had a math exam. She at the Paralympics in London he also set to further help and support young film entered the competition after only two hours the World- and Olympic records in 200 ­directors and Icelandic movie projects. of sleep. meter freestyle swim. His record time was Now, back to the movie. Issue 1 ı 67 Ultimate Icelander There’s a new superhero in town

Gunnar Nelson - full name Gunnar Lúðvík Nelson - is Iceland’s very own superhero. This pro- fessional martial artist has proven himself to be in a league of his own in Iceland­­ and one of the very best worldwide. He recently became the very first Icelander to compete in the esteemed Ultimate Fighting Championship or UFC. His very first fight was against DaMarques Johnson, a USA fighter with considerably more experience­ than the 24 year old Nelson. Despite an obvious weight difference in DaMarques’ favor, Nelson accepted the challenge­ and using a technique known as rear naked choke (RNC), conquered the seasoned­ fighter in the first round after only three minutes and 34 seconds. WOW Magazine contacted the young superhero who as a child dreamt of becoming Batman.

by Hrund Þórsdóttir Photos: Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir Make-up: Þórdís Þorleifsdóttir

unnar Nelson is a rising “The Icelandic Sports Federa­ performer and while I do not ment where I am comfortable. star in the fighting leagu­ tion made me a generous spons­ want to injure my opponent, in Sometimes I want to train hard Ges of the world. Despite orship offer; it came shortly after I the ring, I put my feelings aside but other days I want to play, an his young age he remains un­ had realized how much I wanted and do what it takes. attitude many athletes lose with de­feated and unfazed, having to pursue Mixed Martial Arts, so “I take no pride in violence. I time. They think maximum result defeated one fighter after anot­ I couldn’t in good conscience used to get into fights when I during training is necessary and her. As an athlete, he’s grown accept it. Sponsorships for Mixed was younger and a part of me can’t stand to lose to training tremendously in just a short Martial Arts athletes are not thought it was pretty cool to be partners. That to me is a mistake time, having achieved the kind available in Iceland, as the sport able to beat up anyone and be and it is generally a bad idea to of success very few accomplish is not recognized by the Federa­ ‘the man’. But deep inside, I al­ stand on a pedestal. If you do in a lifetime. tion. Anyway, I was yet to make ways felt bad about it. Today, I’d that, you’ll miss out on so many “It’s hard for me to focus my a name for myself in MMA.” never use violence outside the things you could learn. During attention on too many things ring,” Nelson said with resolve. training sessions, I’ve been at once. I prefer to put all my No pride in violence beaten up numerous times, by energy in one activity and do “The picture people paint of Crucial to have fun fighters I would easily take in­ it the best I can. When I find fight­ers is generally an ugly one. For a novice, it may seem diffi­ side the ring. It’s okay to give up some­­thing that appeals to me, However, some people admire cult to enter the ring and accept sometimes, because it means all I want is to do it all day long, the exterior façade of coolness, the challenge. When asked if you’ll come back stronger. It’s every single day. Since I start­ and look up to fighters who’re he is frightened before a match, important to be playful and I ed training Mixed Martial Arts blatantly arrogant and disre­ Nelson replied, think that’s the key to success, (MMA), my enthusiasm for the spect their opponents; this is “You know your opponent’s not just for athletes but for sport has continued to grow not the image I want to convey,” goal is to beat you up, and at every­one; also to be calm and and has become such a big part Nelson said when asked about first it’s terrifying but when you composed. The better you feel, of my life. This is what I want the violent nature of the sport. get used to it your perspective and the more at ease you are to do and I am blessed to have Despite his sport, Gunnar Nel­ changes. Some think rage with everyone and everything, found my calling so early in life,” son is not a violent man. “I want can help you in the ring but it the easier it is to focus; also your Nelson explains. people to see the good in me, doesn’t - same goes for fear. You brain functions quicker, and you Before his involvement in Mix­ and paint a picture that sincerely cannot be emotionally involved ed Martial Arts, Nelson was an depicts goodness. I don´t want to in the ring, because those feel­ Date of birth: 28 July 1988 accomplished athlete in Karate mask my weaknesses­ with neg­ ings will get in the way.” and a member of the Iceland­ ative or cocky be­havior, partly Apart from the aches and Height: 180 cm ic national team. Although he because a younger­ fighter might pains that come with the terri­ Weight: 80 kg received­ a major sponsorship want to imitate me. I am very tory, Nelson has never been Shoe size: 43 (European) ­offer – the largest ever offered confident in myself and show it injured. When asked if he thinks Eye colour: Blue-gray to an Icelandic martial artist - through my composure, rather the training rounds are too from the Icelandic Sports Feder­ than by being ostentatious and rough, he explained, “To me, it’s Hair colour: Brown ation (ÍSÍ), he turned it down. having fits of rage. I am not a im­portant to train in an environ­ Motto in life: Balance

68 ı WOW is in the air Issue 1 ı 69 have more ambition, energy and “To possess real confidence self-confidence,” Nelson said convincingly. means to be at ease with your­ “To possess real confidence self, and not because people means to be at ease with your­ self, and not because people admire you. I am very much at admire you. I am very much at ease with myself; still I know ease with myself; still I know there’s always room for improve­ there’s always room ment. You have to have a goal to work towards, but it felt good for improvement.­ when I finally discovered that there is more to it than that. I “I am very good at being by realized this recently and now I myself, and unlike those who dis­ don’t do things just to achieve tract themselves with tele­­vis­i­on, certain results but also because I like to reflect upon matters and I enjoy doing them. Now that I reach my own conclusions. Hon­ have achieved this state of mind est and sincere contemplation is I’ve never wanted to train as all about chasing a feeling with­ much, I could spend all day at in, considering matters­­­­ through the gym.” meditation and applying­­­­ them systematically” he explained.­­ Rules are restrictive “People keep asking me why Gunnar has a remarkably mature I don’t set specific goals for approach to life, despite the fact my­­self, but if the truth be told, he’s never received spiritual goals become restrictions. The guid­­ance to help with the mental best way for me to succeed is side of things. to focus on what I am doing,” Gunn­ar replied when asked about his goals. “When people watch you from the idea of leading a tribal life Gunnar Nelson now has Gunnar Nelson is a man who afar, you can take positive ener­ where the most experienced, gy from them and that’s what I guide the others. For us, it’s not a contract with the UFC sets his own bars and isn’t bother­ do. It can be difficult for some the old people with the most life and is currently waiting for ed by public opinion. Still, he does people to be watched like this, experience on their shoulders his next challenge. He has have a role model within the MMA. but you shouldn’t be afraid of that steer the wheel, but young received a lot of attention being who you are.” people driven by insecurity. People after his debut in the UFC “Fedor Emelianko is a family man who is generally serene He feels people should have always want more and more, and numerous magazines and composed, even though he the freedom to make their own and to them modest living is not have interviewed him, such is the best fighter in the world. choices and considers it normal interesting. I think it’d be better as Japan´s biggest maga- He never loses his composure, to make a mistake. if individuals like my grandfather zine in the martial arts field. a quality I’ve always wanted to “Rules are confining. It should were in charge - he has taught Nelson´s next fight is yet possess,” he says. suffice to instruct people to me so much. Sometimes I don‘t undecided but it could be ­ Nelson is aware of all the atten­ recog­nize right from wrong, but immediately understand what he‘s in early 2013. tion he’s now receiving and his we’re such babies that we can’t trying to say, but í come around in responsibility as a role model. live without rules. I am drawn to the end. Grandfathers are wise.”

BANKASTRÆTI 7 AUSTURHRAUN 3 SMÁRALIND KRINGLAN 70 ı WOW is in the air 533 3390 533 3805 533 3013 533 3003 Gunnar says with a smirk. “My grandparents have a farm up north and from time to time I´ve helped them out. When my grandfather taught me to strike a nail, he told me to not hit too hard and to focus on the object at hand. My impatient self on the other hand wanted to get the nail in the wall as quickly as possible­ and as easily as my grandfather did, but the nail broke and I had to start over. It’s the same for my sport, once I learned to be relax­ ed when striking a blow, each blow became more powerful.”

Indifferent to the material world When Gunnar talks about mod­ est living, the obvious question is if material objects matter to him at all. “I am no monk but I’ve become increasingly indifferent to worldly goods. The never-ending rat race is a race for quantity not born from wanting it all. I´m not my grandparents when I get the quality. We are living breath­ that concerned about worldly chance. I want to continue train­ ing be­ings with feelings and goods, yet I’ve never wanted for ing MMA and eventually start a “I am drawn to the the best ones have nothing to anything. If I make healthy eating family of my own. We’ll see what do with material objects other choices, make time for family and the future brings. You never idea of leading a than our basic needs: to be out friends, am able to workout and know what’s going to happen tribal life where the in nature, exercise, relax and have sex, I’m okay. That’s all I next, and I live in the moment. I laugh with friends… these are need. I have dreams but they’re don’t want to miss out on all the most experienced the things that give life mean­ not my goals. Above all, I want to positive experiences happening guide the others.” ing. Many worry about money spend time with my friends and this very momen.” for no good reason. Worries are my family, which includes­ seeing

BANKASTRÆTI 7 AUSTURHRAUN 3 SMÁRALIND KRINGLAN 533 3390 533 3805 533 3013 533 3003 Photo: Guðmundur Vigfússon.

Jump right in The sea is our second home

by Jón Kristinn Snæhólm Photos: Heiða Helgadóttir,Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir and Kristinn Magnússon one in their descendants. In Iceland today right mind this has become quite a craze. In walks calmly fact sea swimming and bathing Notowards the is one of the fastest growing free­zing Atlantic January waves sports in the country where up with a big grin on his face howl­ to 500 enthusiasts from the ages ing words of excitement and 15 to 85 do it on a regular basis. bravado without being stark “The cold is not our enemy, the rav­ing mad or a member of the brain is. The brain tells us that Icelandic Sea Swim and Bath going into the freezing water is Society. Yet this is not a new hazardous and of course it is if phenomenon because this sport you don´t know how to behave has indulged various eccentrics in these circumstances. And through history claiming that the surely you have to know the sea is the cure for bad health, signs of hypothermia. But if the diseases and hot temper. Some brain gets used to this kind of emphasize that this is or was, environment it adopts the right the true sport of the Vikings and countermeasures and you’re thus essential to endeavor for ok,” says Árni Þór Árnason, form­ those who claim to be their true er chairman of the Icelandic Sea

72 ı WOW is in the air Swim and Bath Society and best friend and companion an applicant for his second shrank up to non existence swim crossing of the English leaving my manhood at Channel. ZERO. But I promise, after a little while he forgave me and A unique experience came home to daddy. Yours truly tried this unique “My toes and fingers have experience on December 1st numbed up,” I told Árni who 2012 in order to share the had accompanied me. “At this feeling of swimming in the point your body is regulating North Atlantic Ocean at freez­ itself to the conditions it’s ing temperatures with the in,” he assured me while my TY SERVICE respectable readers of WOW body’s function in the water QUALI Magazine …and … WOOOOW! began to slow down so I could ATIVE EXPERIENCE Shh*t! Don’t try this at home, survive as long as possible. CRE folks. “The body is a wonderful What a tremendous shock machine, able to take tremen­ for the body. First it was like dous punishment both from a huge sledge hammer made heat and cold and the brain of ice hit me on the chest and with proper training will save my heart, the fist sized muscle you in the worst conditions. DAY TOURS supposed to pump blood It’s only a matter of training. through all my veins, shrank Now I’m taking you out of the ACTIVITIES to a raisin protecting only the water. You have been in here Watching most vital organs; the brain, with me for two minutes but Whale on the lungs and itself. It was bear in mind that after about The Blue Lago very hard to breath and every a month’s training we could Circle muscle in my body stiffened stay for an hour or more. This The Golden becomes an addiction.” g or cramped up to reserve rseback Ridin body heat and energy. Most In the sauna afterwards I Ho shocking of all was that my had the feeling that billions Car Rental of needles were prick­­ing pride and joy and long time -minute gently at my entire body and Last n sure enough I felt like a new Accommodatio man and full of energy. I’m nd defin­itely going to take this Geenla up in the near future and I‘ve ... and more! already started looking for places in Florida and Spain where I can flaunt my favorite sport.

There are some major factors to be considered before jumping into the unknown world of the freezing sea:

Nourishment, a good night´s sleep and no alcoholic beverages. It is of vital importance to eat something nourishing so you don’t encounter a dive in your blood sugar levels in the middle of your swim. A banana is enough before a short swim. A good night’s rest is also very important and by no means should you drink alcohol beforehand as it dilutes the blood and can therefore easily transfer coldness to the heart. Recommended: One minute in the sea for each degree of the sea’s Tel.: +354 570 7770 temperature for beginners Breathing: It is important to breathe regularly. Otherwise a swimmer can icelandonline.com encounter difficulties, such as adrenalin shock and stiffening of muscles. visit our store locations Support: For those experiencing sea swimming for the first time it is high­ Downtown at Aðalstræti 2 ly recommended that they have the support of an experienced swimmer; Keflavik Airport someone who knows the body’s reactions in these new circumstances. Hótel Saga For further information visit: www.coldwater.is and www.thingvallasund.is.

Issue 1 ı 73 Taking the plunge

Jeez I´m freezing!

by Erna Hreinsdóttir Photos: Rakel Ósk Sigurðardóttir n the early days of the sport, into the cold in to the colt sea the sadistic exercise of sea water, until Ocean, until only our swimming was beyond my heads were above the surface. comprehension. After all, At that moment, I seem to re­ what right-minded man or call a yelp of my own but frankly woman willingly and regu­ I´m not quite sure because these larly goes into the North first seconds I spent in total shock. IAtlantic Ocean for a swim? But as is to be expected, the hen I got used to the day came for my very first swim freezing cold water, in the cold seawater. Wand once I caught my It all started one morning when breath again, I swam for about 20 a girlfriend of mine left a mess­ seconds, the maximum time for age saying, “Hi Erna, will you me as a novice sea swimmer. come with me for a dip in the Twenty seconds may not seem sea?” My first response was a much but I probably would have big fat NO! died had I spent another moment But alas, I gave in and on my in the frigid water. The first steps way home from work I picked back on dry land were rather up my bathing suit. As I arrived difficult since I couldn’t feel my utterly petrified in Nauthólsvík, legs, but otherwise I felt myself Reykjavík’s popular beachfront to be remarkably graceful with known for its partially heat­ my muscles popping and the ed seawater cove, I was bent cellulite mysteriously gone. on solving the mystery as to Safe to say, I solved the mystery. why riddle­ why so many have The great appeal to sea swimm­ abandoned­ their senses and ing is this very feeling of wellbe­ turned to the sea. ing. For some it may be from the rush of adrenaline experienced ow I shivered to the core in the cold seawater, and for of my body while I chang­ ­others, from the feeling of ecsta­ Hed into my bathing suit sy when it’s all over. behind the raw concrete walls For me, it was the relief to rest of the Nauthólsvík­ locker room; comfortably in the hot tub again, and bent and bowed like a cave­ even though bathing in thermal woman, I rac­­ed to the outdoor water was strangely conflicting. hot tub. I couldn’t tell if I was feeling cold In the hot tub we met our brave or hot, and my skin felt like a companions, two men with nerv­ pincushion. But when the sensa­ es of steel, fixed on the targ­et. tion passed, I could feel my Together, they talked me into energy returning. forsaking the deliciously warm water to run half-naked to the arely have I been as proud beach - the not heated side. Yes of myself as I was after I refer to the “other side of the Rthis ordeal, and I felt as if I rocks” where the real sea swimm­ could climb on top of the world. I ing heroes and swim all the way was determined to return another to the buoy and back. day to experience this extraordi­ For a little while, all we did was nary high once more. to stand on the beach, and watch Even though I have yet to return, experienced native swimmers­­ I count sea swimming as an activi­ wade into the Atlantic Ocean. ty worth trying and I recommend it The first to take the plunge from to everyone. our group of four were the two A word to the wise, find out how men, yelping like puppies. Then to proceed when swimming­ in the it was our turn. Hand in hand, sea and make sure to check local we took one small step at a time conditions. Useful information is - without a splash as recommend­ available on www.nautholsvik.is ed - and gradually made our way and www.sjosund.is. 74 ı WOW is in the air Pure organic moisture made with hand-picked wild Icelandic herbs – carefully selected for powerful results

Sóley products are free from parabens, PEG and genetically modified ingredients - soleyorganics.com/about Ready, set, go!

One of the very best things about Iceland are the long, bright summer nights. Combine the bright long nights with the country’s beautiful nature and the possibilities for outdoor activities become endless. For many years, people from all over the world have been coming to Iceland in the summer months to play golf at midnight or try their luck at catching fish in the rivers. But it’s not just foreign visitors who enjoy the long summer nights and what they have to offer.

By Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos: courtesy of WOW air

ith its bountiful annual event. Twenty groups of Contestants raised quite a bit daylight and four contestants set upon the of money by collecting pledges Big wheels beautiful nature task to cycle around the country for their teams and all corporate keep on turning Iceland is a in 72 hours or less. sponsorship also went directly An unknown philosopher once prime spot for This first WOW cyclothon was to Save the Children. The total said: “To test a man’s character, Wbike riding, which is why a new both to promote healthy living amount raised by the cyclothon give him a bike.” If you want tradition was started in 2012 by and outdoor activities in the was ISK 3.8 million. to test your own character you a group of energetic outdoorsy beauti­ful nature of Iceland and can participate in the second people inspired by the nature to raise money for a charity Around Iceland in 40 hours cyclothon to be held on the 19th and daylight: the WOW cyclo­ called Save the Children. Some Amongst the 20 teams competing of June 2013. Register at www. wowcyclothon.is. Registration thon. Surprisingly this is the first twenty teams, each consisting were a WOW air women’s-team has already begun and is open cyclothon held in Iceland, but of four people participated and WOW air men’s-team, The to everyone until May 15th 2013. it is determined to become an in the relay style cyclothon. Police-team, a team of middle

76 ı WOW is in the air aged office workers and a gar­ by hosting this compe­tition we of Save the Children Iceland age band. The winning team, can draw people’s attention to adds, “It is very important to raise Piltarnir (the young men) cycled how great Iceland is for outdoor awareness­ of the significance of around the country in 40 hours activities.­ It is also good to spon­ physical­ activities for the general and 57 minutes, which was sor a good cause and a promote health and well-being of children. about seven hours quicker than healthy lifestyle at the same time.” It means a lot to our cause to get the time they were aiming for. this kind of support so we can Skúli Mogensen, CEO of WOW A cause that “wheely” keep working on these projects air, one of the main organisers of makes you think for the children.” the competition and a member The aim of the competition in of WOW air men’s team said: which WOW air was the official “The aim of WOW “The aim of WOW Cyclothon sponsor, donating the winning Cyclothon is to cre­ is to create an international prize, was to raise money for Save ate an international competi­tion in class with the the Children, especially its project best in the world. Icelandic titled “Exercise and the physical competition in class nature has a lot of charisma health of children”.­ with the best in the and appeal and we hope that Ágúst Þórðarson, the manager world.”

Uno is a cozy restaurant in the heart of and consequently the restaurant has acquired a downtown Reykjavik that has become a favorite following of loyal patrons. among foodies, mainly for their flavorful Prices are moderate and the warm and inviting antipasti, platters and Italian style tapas. The lounge offers 50% of all drinks during the daily kitchen's emphasis is on local ingredients, Happy hour between 17–19. served with an Italian twist. No shortcuts are allowed and everything is made from scratch. Fridays and Saturdays the kitchen stays open Vesturgata until midnight, so sharing a platter of brus- Tryggvagata This charming old house on Ingolfstorg square, houses the restaurant on the main floor and chettas and a bottle of wine is the perfect end to downstairs a wine cellar, kitchen and bakery a good day in Reykjavik.

Hafnarstræti with a pasta machine that churns out linguine, Ingólfs- torg tagliolini and rigatoni every morning. Recently Aðalstræti Austurst. UNO at Ingólfstorg Veltusund renovated and under new ownership, Uno has attracted some of the best young chefs in town Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is Fit while flying

Land in style With the help of these In-flight exercises! We don´t want tired or worn out passengers coming out of the WOW airplanes so we got Ásthildur Björnsdóttir, a registered­ nurse and personal trainer, to whip you into shape. Rest assured that you are in excellent hands and start moving those ankles.

By: Halldóra Anna Hagalín Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

To combat poor circulation, swelling, sore joints and the “joys” of cramped flights you might try doing a short exercise routine; at the very least, you´ll entertain your fellow passengers!

When you´re sitting upright and inactive for a long period of time, several things can happen:

• The central blood vessels in your legs can become compressed, making it harder for the blood to get back to your heart. • Muscles can get tense, resulting in backaches and a feeling of excessive fatigue during, and even after your flight. • The normal body mechanism for returning fluid to the heart can be inhibited and gravity can cause the fluid to collect in your feet, resulting in swollen feet after a long flight. Wait! That doesn´t sound attractive at all!

While in-flight, move your legs and feet for three to four minutes per hour while 1. Neck roll: seated and move about the cabin occasionally. Sure, these exercises are light; With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently we’re not training you to be a bodybuilder, still they can be effective at increasing roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each the body´s blood circulation and massaging the muscles. position about twenty seconds.

2. Arm stretch: 3. Triceps lift Put both of your hands on the seatback directly in front of Make sure there is plenty of space around you to do this exercise! Place your hands on the you and push symmetrically for 10 seconds and release. bar of your seat. With hands gripping the arm rests and elbows pointing back lift yourself Repeat 5 times. This exercise can only be done if the seat up and down using your muscles in the back of your arms (the triceps). Your feet are stuck in front of you is vacant! So wait until its occupant leaves to the floor. Try to do as many you can! for the bathroom … or a recommended stretch.

78 ı WOW is in the air Attention: Each exercise should be done with minimal disturbance to the other passengers and none of the exercises should be performed if they cause pain and cannot be done with ease.

Land in style

4. Forward flex for your back: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs toward your ankles. Hold the stretch for 20 seconds and slowly sit back up. Repeat 5 times. Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the floor and point feet upward as high as you can. Hold for 10 seconds. Then put both feet flat on the floor. Next, lift your heels high as you can, keeping the balls of your feet on the floor and again hold for 10 seconds. Repeat this cycle 5 times every hour.

Airplane workout – Q&A

Is it dangerous to exercise on the airplane? Because airplanes are moving and therefore not stable you should not perform the more extravagant exercises while the “fasten your seat-belts” sign is turned on. If the air currents are unfavourable you can always do the ankle circles and the neck roll.

Aren’t people going to think I´m weird? Yeah maybe! Of course, if they’re 5. Knee lifts: Lift leg with knee bent while contracting your thigh muscles. sleeping they won’t notice. If not Alternate. Repeat 20-30 times for each leg. they may think you are a bit weird. But think of it this way: you’ll be the liveliest person leaving the aircraft. Well, you and the other weirdos, that is. Just bear in mind; Avoid disturbing passengers that might throw you out!

How often should I do the exercises? The upper body exercises are perfect for every other hour but the lower body exercises should be done for about 3-4 minutes every hour.

WOW Challenge: Challenge your 6. Heavy lift 8. Ankle circles: Place the ankle of your right leg on top of your left leg. Now push Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the entire row to do the Triceps lift or your left leg up and down without your left foot touching the floor. toes, simu­­ltaneously moving one foot cloc­­k­ Heavy lift until only one person is Repeat at least 10 times and then switch legs. wise and the other foot counter clockwise.­­ left standing … sitting (ok, we´re Reverse cycles. Do each direction­­ for 20 confused but you’ll figure it out). seconds. Repeat­­ every hour of your flight. Issue 1 ı 79 A person of WOW

Photo: Aldís Pálsdóttir, www.paldis.com Anything is possible for a smiling bulldozer

There is an Icelandic saying for people that can do a lot of tasks at once. It loosely translates to “having a lot of irons in the fire”. Where it came from or what it exactly means I’m not sure, but it certainly came to my mind when I first heard of Andrea Sóleyjar og Björgvinsdóttir. She is a single mother of three girls, graduate student, flight attendant at WOW air, a project manager at WOW air marketing department and now a book author. (After reading that, all I could think, was “wow!”) Andrea has recently put the finishing touches on what she calls “her fourth child”, a book about child­ bearing, birthing stories, and fun things that happen to parents. The book is titled BókiN oKKar which translates to “Our Book” in English.

By Dísa Bjarnadóttir

Where did the idea publish it myself but then be­­hind the book come I contacted Salka pub­ from? lishing house and they “It started when I was loved the concept so two pregnant with my eldest months ago we signed daughter, Sóley, who is a contract. Then the ball “The WOW now seven years old. really started rolling and atmosphere I thought there was a now I’m working full time need for a book of this on the book. It has already in the work­ kind in Icelandic and gained a lot of interest place suits since none existed I got and from what I hear there the idea of writing one was a need for a book me really myself. I started col­ like this. People within the lecting­­ material, writing­­ health professions tell me well.” down questions and there is excitement about ide­as and my pile slowly it within their field and also started getting bigger. amongst mothers- and I worked on the book fathers-to-be. on and off for the next few years, during which How do you manage to time I also had two more balance motherhood, daughters, moved twice studies and work? to other countries, work­ It has gone remarkably ed and went to school. well, believe it or not. I At first I was going to am very lucky to have my

80 ı WOW is in the air “It started when I was pregnant with my eldest daught­ er, Sóley, who is now seven years old. parents who live in the I thought it would be but country side, just outside also a lot more fun. The of Selfoss. I’d be lost WOW atmosphere in the without them. The book workplace suits me really is dedicated to them. I am well. To be optimistic and not usually very organized outgoing at work and put­ but I have lots of energy ting an effort to “WOW” and optimism and I be­ all my tasks is amazing! lieve I can do anything, as long as I picture myself as got an opportunity to a smiling bulldozer. work in the marketing Idepartment and I get to What do you like most work on all kinds of fun about working for and challenging projects WOW air? for them. I think I’ve appl­ Getting a job as a flight ied “The Secret” method attendant at WOW air is to get everything I want one of the best things because I’m exper­­iencing I’ve done in my life. The everything I’ve ever job is more difficult than dream­ed of and more.

Issue 1 ı 81 All about Berlin

© VisitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien

A grand historical city

Berlin is a tourist destination not to be missed. Even with a population of approximately 3.8 million people, it is remarkably tranquil for such a highly populated metropolitan city. Berlin is rich in history and divided in two parts, the east and west, and has been since 1961 when the Berlin Wall was constructed almost overnight. The barriers were finally broken when the wall was demolished in 1989. The two city parts are worlds apart despite their proximity, and written in their city’s extraordinary history are lingering memories of a wall that for decades kept families and friends apart.

By Kristín Ýr Gunnarsdóttir

82 ı WOW is in the air western sector when the Berlin Wall was built. The gate was repaired in the new millennium and is considered extraordinarily beautiful. Before the gate is a beautiful square where street artists often perform.

© VisitBerlin / Susan Steudtemann © VisitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien

The Berlin Wall The Parliamentary Berlin was split into sectors by Building DDR Museum the Allies in 1945 following Nazi Berlin’s parliamentary build­ © VisitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien This highly entertaining museum Germany’s defeat in the Second ing, Reichstag has a long and is by the Cathedral. It gives a World War. became impressive history. It was built in fun account of daily life in East a part of West Germany and the 19th century but was severe­ The Holocaust Memorial Berlin and guests are welcome fell into the hands of ly damaged in the Second World The Holocaust Memorial is a to interact with the artifacts. You the Communist regime. Massive War, and remained that way for prominent sight in the Berlin city can start an old Trabant (a car evacuation from the east to the almost 50 years. It was finally centre occupying approximately produced by an East German west led the construction of rebuilt in 1990 when Germany 20,000 square metres. It was auto­­maker), dress up in an East the Berlin Wall in August 1961. was reunified. A new cupola was built in commemoration of the German military uniform, read The wall seperated families and built in the parliament building five to six million Jews who died East German comics and it’s friends all the way up to 1989 from which visitors can now in the Holocaust. Above the even possible to have an East when it collapsed overnight. enjoy a magnificent view. ground is an assembly of 2711 German meal in a special diner Most of the wall has been demo­ slabs and below is the Holo­ connected to the museum. lished. The most sacred remains caust museum, where letters can be found by a memorial of written­ by Jews about their the wall at Bernauerstrasse 119. experiences­ during the war are on display. Letters from mothers telling theirchildren­ to be brave and accept death, and letters wishing the hol­ocaust would end can be read.

© VisitBerlin The Berliner Dom Prenzlauer Berg Prenzlauer Berg is one of Berlin’s © VisitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien Cathedral most colorful and inviting bor­ The Berliner Dom Cathedral is oughs. Located in East Berlin, the White Trash - Fast Food The Television Tower the largest Protestant church property value was once low in The name does not do justice The Television Tower in Berlin in Germany, approximately 114 this run down sector, attracting to this extraordinary restaurant (Fernsehturm) is approximately metres tall and 70 metres wide. Bohemians and artists. Today, and it’s an experience and a half 370 metres high and was built Construction began in 1905, a sur­ Prenzlauer Berg - an art district to come here. All the staff looks in East Berlin between 1965 to prising fact to most visitors who with cafes, bars, small boutiques, like Amy Winehouse, covered in 1969. The tower was a symbol think the church is much older. restaurants and markets - is a tattoos and body piercing, and intended to show the West Adventurous explorers who enjoy laid-back area where the bars wearing loads of knick-knacks. German population the great the mystique of a narrow stair­ stay open until dawn. Although their appearance may power of . The case, can climb beyond where the be a bit off the deep end the food Visitor Platform (the panoram­ lifts go all the way to the church is right on and the service enter­ ic floor) rises two hundred tower. Like most buildings in Berl­ taining. White Trash is a great metres above the city and the in The Berliner Dom Cathedral hangout for a night out with good revolving restaurant offers an was dam­aged severely in the friends. amazing panoramic view. second world war, and rebuilt in 1975. © VisitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien A worthwhile place to visit is the Sunday market held in the Mauer­ park, where street performers set the mood and just about every­ thing can be bought. The ideal place to spend a perfect Sunday afternoon.

© VisitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien Brandenburg Gate The Brandenburg Gate is Berlin’s best known symbol. It was com­ Cycling is a charming way to ex- plore Berlin. Hotels generally offer missioned by King Frederick a day by day bike rental for 10 to William II towards the end of 12 Euros. It’s a real bargain and a the 18th century and was meant great way to get to know the city. Fashionation to be a symbol of peace. Like The cityscape is flat so it’s easy The cool designer labels and sophisticated clothes are made for the most buildings in the city centre, to get around. All you need to do selective consumer. The price tag is steep for single design­ ­er items it was damaged in the Second is find a map, mark the route and but they’re worth it. This boutique is located on the second floor in World War, and became isolated the museums you might want to visit and enjoy the ride. the P&C Welstadthaus mall. be­­tween the eastern and Issue 1 ı 83 All about Berlin

Night Out

Beautiful Berlin Ritter Butzke - Ritterstrasse 26 This fairytale land is always Graphic designer Nicole Nicolaus, born in Leipzig, Germany, spent the past 11 years working in crowded and the music is great. Iceland, three, as the art director for the popular clothing line 66° North. Earlier this year Nicole moved back to Germany and she now works as a senior graphic designer for CYBEX in Berlin. Prince Charles - Moritzplatz Eight months since her relocation to Berlin – a city she loves for its heterogeneity­ The bar situated at the site of – Nicole told us about some of her favourite places to visit. an old indoor swimming pool plays non-stop music By Kristín Ýr Gunnarsdóttir KaterHolzig - Michaelkirchstr 23 You can enjoy good food 24/7 in this old factory with its graffiti décor. Your first destination should always We care be www.safetravel.is

© Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH about you so muchPhotographer: Günter Steffen Clärchens Ballhaus - August- . In Iceland the weather can change fast. strasse 24 Sit and chat or dance the Check the weather at http://en.vedur.is night away at this unique old that we want youballroom with real history and genuine character.

Neue Odessa Bar - Torstrasse 89 . Always leave your travel plan with The bar to meet the crème de la to visit our website.crème in the art community. someone who can react if needed or Relax at www.safetravel.is/en/Bl/TravelPlan.

Insel der Jugend Ideal for renting a canoe or a boat at the “Kanuliebe”. The per­ . Gather information about the area you fect place in Berlin to truly relax. Photo: ©VisitBerlinwww.safetravel.is / Günter Steffen are travelling to. little bookstore you’ll find books Eating Shopping on design, architecture, the arts and much, much more. Papaya - Krossener Strasse 11 . Remember to bring the right equipment An authentic Thai restaurant, Aarven - Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 2 and a favourite of mine. It is This store carries a wide range for the kind of travel you are planning. absolutely delightful. of priceless designer gifts. © VisitBerlin / Günter Steffen Chén Chè - Rosenthaler Strasse 13 Tiergarten A Vietnamese Tea house where An enchanting green zone in the the decorations and the food Broke und Schön - Krosseren heart of the city. say everything that needs to be Strasse 9 said. The spring rolls are lovely, This is a favourite of mine. The the atmosphere great and the clothing comes from neighbour­ waiters ever so friendly. ing France and it’s smart but © Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH. cheap. The salesgirls are pretty Photographer: Günter Steffen Dolores - Rosa-Luxemburg and there is always something Küchenliebe - Gärtnerstrasse 28 Strasse 7 to be found. A fantastic boutique where The authentic California burritos you’ll find perfect housewarming and quesadillas always do the Cos - Neue Schönhauser Str. 20 presents, and a little something trick, and I definitely recommend The selection of timeless for yourself. the homemade lemonade. Pric­ mod­ern clothing is made out es are very reasonable. of quality material and the colours are fabulous. Badeschiff- Eichenstrasse 4 Yam Yam - Alte Schönhauser Str. 6 Badeschiff takes you to a whole This small,cozy Korean restaurant proqm - Amstadtstrasse 48-50 new level in a swimming pool We want you out of here – alive! is always packed. Once you’ve Bound for Greatness is Berlin’s that literally floats in the River tried the food you’ll know why! finest bookstore. In this neat Spree.

84 ı WOW is in the air Your first destination should always We care be www.safetravel.is about you so much . In Iceland the weather can change fast. Check the weather at http://en.vedur.is that we want you . Always leave your travel plan with to visit our website. someone who can react if needed or at www.safetravel.is/en/Bl/TravelPlan.

. Gather information about the area you www.safetravel.is are travelling to.

. Remember to bring the right equipment for the kind of travel you are planning.

We want you out of here – alive! All about Berlin

A Kreuzberg metro. © visitBerlin / Günter Steffen

What’s not to love about Berlin? A poor student’s guide to the city

By Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir More Iceland for less money efore moving to landic upbringing didn’t Von Teese with a neon This can range from Berlin I knew it teach me much about the pink poodle on a leash, board­ing a tram before only from trav­ real world of industr­ial sit down next to them on all passeng­ers have elling through a energy. Turns out that, the train. stepped off or asking for few times, look­ once you get past the fact Open minded and li­ an extra plastic bag from Bing at the sites as a tour­ that there is an actual fire beral as they are in this the fruit vendor at the ist and loving it. I loved­­ it burning uncomfortably city, they really love their market. This may sound so much that I decided­­ to close to your gas stove, rules, most of which are uncomfortable and rude spend the winter here on it’s actually quite nice. And unspoken, silent agree­ but you welcome their stud­ent loans, studying scary park­-people seem ments. But as a stranger forwardness in comment­ and soaking in the cult­ very linguistically intimidat­ here, I make roughly 2-3 ing on your behaviour ure. At the moment I’m ed by Icelandic, so there socially unacceptable once you’ve mistaken a living in a coal heated you go. mistakes aa week. I know “this way to pool” sign for apartment next to a scary The city’s rental market Guðrún Baldvina and her this because Germans will “feel free to walk naked park in the hip and lively is so crazy that when straight hair. inform me about whatever­­ through this door” sign. I Kreuzberg district. For I go back home, I will my line. They are in fact blunder I’ve just made, will always think fondly of those considering this have moved 5 times in all part of the world’s enquire about what my the outspok­en German type of accomm­odation, 6 months and lived in most comprehensive exact intentions were and who stopped me in that did you know that coal is four different neighbour­ public transport system, provide a suggestion on doorway. When I need incredibly heavy and usu­ hoods. Each neighbour­ and they give you a really how to do it next time. a break from studying ally stored in basements hood has its own charm good sense of the diver­ with huge red pictures of and whenever I’ve sity of the people in this “When I need a break from study­ Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland rats on their doors? Even mov­­ed, I’ve settled in so city. Grandfathers with “real Berliners” find this nicely that I never want their trimmed moustach­ ing or toting coals to my apart­ adventurous of me, prob­ to leave. I’ve gott­­en so es and neat suits don’t ment the variety of options to en­ ably because they know emotionally­ attached raise an eyebrow when I’m about as street smart to metro lines that I’ve a middle­-aged lesbian tertain are overwhelming. I think as Dora the Explorer and travelled for an extra 20 couple, dressed as diff­ I can honestly say that the only that my geothermal Ice­ minutes just to stay on erent versions of Dita real limits are my imagination.”

86 ı WOW is in the air Tel: +354 511 2600 E-mail: [email protected] bustravel.is side there’s something the city, complete with asking for heroin at a an accessible plaque interesting happening a rainforest, a beach pharmacy. My enquiry explaining it all. And within a 10 minute radius and an artificial sunset. was met with shock, that’s just the streets, anyway. The highlight You can even bring your slight offence and a small the museums are a this week was the Turkish sleeping bag and camp lecture on the damage world of their own where bath for women (hamam) for the night. It is without those chemicals do to incredibly well made on Mariannenstrae where a doubt, the weirdest the environment and my exhibitions shoulder the you stroll naked through attraction I’ve ever heard hair, in that order. I was responsibility of remem­ hot rooms with your of and I am more than however informed that if I bering and informing. My friends, pretend you’re willing to be one of the get my hair cut when the personal favorites are the a goddess by leisurely suckers attracted. Bundestag’s parliamen­ Gendarmenmarkt. pouring water from a I’ve also come to real­ tary museum at Gendar­ © visitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien. fountain all over yourself ize that I can buy virtually menmarkt and the Wall or toting coals to my and relax for three hours. anything here, from odd Memorial on Bernauer apartment the variety of Brilliant! Fair trade, bio-eco Afri­ Strasse …both incidental­ options to entertain are These days I’ve been can fruits to tickets to a ly, incredibly remarkable overwhelming. I think bolstering up my holiday Leonard Cohen concert – and incredibly free! I can honestly say that cheer at the numerous almost anything. Shortly The rat sign in the basement. In the end, what makes the only real limits are Christmas markets trying after arriving I decided moon is at a certain po­ it so special is this my imagination. I have to get you to drink a lot that my outgrown, hippie sition every month, after combination of old and yet to invent something of glühwein and eat a hair days were numbered two years I’d have natural new, history and culture, that they don’t already lot of walnuts that are and that an edgy perm curls. There are no quick variety in all meanings of offer in Berlin. From really incredibly festive. would be the new me, fixes in the world of the the word in all aspects of private lessons in playing The best ones are up in but asking for a perm at eco-friendly and environ­ a society. What’s not to an ancient instrument­­ Prenzlauer Berg at the a BIO hair salon is like mentally enlightened. At love? or dancing in absolute Kulturbrauerei and Koll­ another hair salon I was dark­­ness during a lunch witzplatz where they’ve referred to a specialist break, to wheel gym­ boycotted the 20th cen­ who did this sort of thing nastics (it’s the weirdest tury and just dive straight at a different place. My sport in the world) the into proper old fashioned hair is still straight and choices are endless. It Christmas. This year I am boring. helps to subscribe to planning on something a newsletters like www. little different for Christ­ omething slowtravelberlin.com and mas, namely a visit to the mind-blowing www.eventim.de, just in Tropical Island Dome. Shappened at case the Beetles reunite. It’s an indoor tropical The Tropical Island Dome, just about every corner Christmas Market at But if you just step out­ Charlottenburg Palace. beach resort, just outside just outside Berlin. and on that corner is © visitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien.

More Iceland for less money

Explore the unique volcanic and arctic nature of Iceland

Tel: +354 511 2600 E-mail: [email protected] bustravel.is All about Berlin

A small piece of a long story The Wall was built in 1961 in order to separate the western part of Berlin from the east­ ern part. The former capital of Germany was at this time situated in Soviet territory and their “puppet” government in East Germany wanted to do everything in its power to stop defection of East Germans to West Berlin. At the time they started building the wall, i.e. on August 13, 1961, more than 2.5 million people had already fled from Eastern Ger­ many to the western part of the country. By Jón Kristinn Snæhólm

he government of dead zone was lit up by flood to give passionate speeches East Germany called lights, armored soldiers were on in front of The Wall daring the The Wall “The De­ guard everywhere with auto­ Soviets to honor independence, fense Wall against matic machine guns who shot freedom and human rights. fascism” whereas everyone that tried to defect. It Two speeches in retrospect Germans in the west is estimated that ca. 136 people about the Berlin Wall and its Tcalled it “The Wall of Shame”. died in their attempt, 200 were significance­­ concerning the The creation, upbuilding, and wounded and there is no way of horrible­­ injustice perpetrated development of The Wall was knowing how many people were against the people in the East is at all times in the hands of the imprisoned after trying to flee. first, the speech made by John East Germans. At first barb wire F. Kennedy on June 26, 1963, in was put up be­tween houses Making a stand which he attacked the Soviets then brick walls were built block About 350 thousand people left and its “puppets” in East Berlin by block. In 1975 a new brick East Germany with the consent for the building of The Wall, and wall was built in such a way that of German authorities from 1961 their severe breach of human it was almost impossible­ for until the fall of The Wall on the rights. And I quote, “In the people to climb over. In fact The 9th of November 1989. The world of freedom, the proudest Wall was built as if it were two Wall was the image of the Cold boast is; [I walls, i.e. a wall facing West Ber­ War and Berlin was the center of am from Berlin].” And next as US lin, and another situated on the heated and sometimes violent president Ronald Regan asked other side of the so called “dead confrontations between commu­ Michael Gorbachev to clarify and zone”, a zone of 100-200 meters nists and their detractors. West­ prove what he meant by “Glas­ Check point Charlie. between the two walls. The ern political leaders were eager © visitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien. nost” and “Perestroika” when he

88 ı WOW is in the air said on June 12, 1987, “General Secretary Gorbachev, if you seek prosperity for the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe, if you seek liberalization, come here to this gate! Mr. Gorbachev, open this gate! Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall.” Margaret Thatcher had these famous words to say in the House of Commons in a debate concerning foreign policy “We don´t need walls to keep our people in.” These speeches derive somewhat from a speech that Winston Churchill made on the 5th of March 1946 at the Uni­- versity­ of Fulton, Missouri, in which he described the power that the Soviets had over the occupied territories after World War II, and their treacherous promises concerning democracy “from Stettin in the Baltic to Trieste in the Adriatic, an descended across the con­ tinent.”

Remains of the Berlin Wall at Potsdamer Platz. © visitBerlin / Wolfgang Scholvien.

Welcome to

June 1963. President John F. Kennedy inspects the Berlin Wall during his visit to West Berlin. Photograph by Robert Knudsen, White House, in the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Another brick from the wall The small fraction shown here could tell The Wall´s impressive history. It may be a good description of the reality reign­ ing between The East and The West. The side facing East Berlin was grey and gloomy and the dead zone clearly visible­­ with all its machine guns, armored soldiers and landmines­­­ threatening to keep peo­ ple from fleeing towards freedom – the MONSTER TRUCKS • SNOWMOBILES • SUPER JEEPS other side facing West Berlin was colorful and bright where people had gone freely Tel. (+354) 580 9900 to The Wall and decorated it with graf­fi ti [email protected] - www.mountaineers.is emphasizing messages about freedom and human rights. Did these messages work? Did they unite Germany? When it comes down to it, it was not just the politicians with their passionate speeches or the graffiti demonstrating opposition rather it was the people as a whole, and their longing to be united under one national flag that actually tore The Wall down. This little fraction of The Wall in Berlin never saw the bloody battlegrounds of the eastern part. It faced freedom as Germany does today.

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© Visit Berlin / Koch Issue 1 ı 89 WOW destinations

Where to next? – The possibilities are endless

the Old Town Market Place (Rynek Starego Miasta), which dates back to the end of the 13th century. It is in the heart of the Old Town, and on UNESCO’s list of World Heri­ tage Sites along with all of Old Town.

Flip out in Barcelona Enjoy your sangria while sitting on Las Ramblas nibbling delicious tapas. Get one step closer to fulfilling your life long dream of becoming a flamenco dancer. Experience Gaudi’s architectural­ creations first and bask in the warm sun at Sitges while sipping a cold glass of Cava later. Barce­lona El Prat Airport is situated 12 km southwest of central Barce­lona and only 15 minutes away from the pleasure of this wonderful city and all it London calling has to offer. Sorry for the obvious headline but it had to Flights are available next June through be said, even just once! Now, switch on your August on Mondays and Fridays. imag­ination, stick out your pinky and sip on a nice cup of English tea. Then, in your best British accent, poke fun, at a respectful distance, at the Buckingham Palace guards who look so funny in their tall fluffy hats. Now put all of that aside, except for the accent, because if you are thinking of a city worth visiting, this is it! Quit Lyon around And while it’s hard to say something about This medieval city is a popular destination this city that hasn’t already be said, written, for art lovers and travelers seeking for ad­ sung about or portrayed in movies, we can venture in dining. Surrounded by the great still say that this city has everything; food, wine regions, Lyon is the world’s culinary fashion, football, festivals and fun and all capital and a great first stop on your journey sorts of other things not beginning with an Wandering through Warsaw throughout Europe. Only one day’s drive ‘f’. We recommend a photo montage at the The Polish capital, Warsaw was the center from Paris, Marseille, Geneva, Torino and Buckingham Palace, a boat ride down the of art and culture for centuries and offers a Barcelona, let Lyon get you started on a Thames, shopping most everywhere and great glimpse of history with its many muse­ delightful and unforgettable tour. a visit to at least one of the city’s street ums and architecture. A cultural cornucopia, Here’s a tip - A cool trip to the Alps can markets such as the one on Camden or Warsaw has something for everybody; inter­ be especially refreshing in the midst of the Portobello Road. national cuisine, vibrant nightlife, favorable summer. One long weekend in London will never currency and gentle climate. We recommend WOW that you’ll go to Lyon! Just pick any be enough and that´s why WOW air flies to Sunday next summer. London every week, all year round.

90 ı WOW is in the air without losing its medieval charm or reason­ hungry munch away in Tirggel and the out­ able pricing. With its gothic, renaissance, doorsy can take a hike, literally, in the Alps. baroque and classic architecture, beautiful Discover the secrets of Zürich while your parks and rich history, the Old Town is the banker takes care of all your gold and secret real attraction of the city. Make sure to taste documents. the country’s popular drink Midus, made Take a WOW plane to Zürich. Flights from vodka, spices and honey, stroll leisurely available every Saturday from June through through the Zoo, lose it at one of the night August. clubs and get your tan going at … wait for it … one of the beautiful clear water beaches of Kaunas! Flights available every week in June, July and August. Where to next? © copenhagenmediacenter.com / Ty Stange The carefree Copenhagen

When it’s time for one of those long and © Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH bright red hot dogs, a roller coaster ride and a carefree stroll down Strøget with a beer Beautiful Berlin stop or two … Copenhagen is the place to Haven’t we told you enough about Berlin? go. For Icelanders, this city is like a Mecca Did you miss our Berlin coverage on pages that has to be visited at least once in a life­ 106-112? Well if you are still not convinced time although many have lived there as well. then you’ll just have to see for yourself! Every district has its charms not to mention WOW flights to Berlin are availa­ble all year. the Freetown Christiania – that gives laid Twice a week during the winter and three back and carefree a whole new meaning. times weekly during the summ­er. And no The Danes know how to cook so get ready excuses! to indulge, be it authentic Danish, oriental, Alicante all the way Italian or Spanish dishes. They also have Sunny sunny, warm warm! We love it, a great cycling culture; Denmark is, after because, let’s face it, Iceland is not always all rather flat, making it easy for the whole warm and sunny and we need a little bit of family to enjoy the day out. Cycling is a heat sometimes, a heat that is not geo­ great way to explore the city and with only a thermal. If you like relaxing, sunbathing, deposit, refunded on return you can use one having fun and going to the beach, and who of those scruffy looking bicycles provided by doesn’t? This is a place for you. the city … And don´t miss the Little Mermaid, If you worry that you’re going to get bored though you’d think she was a little more after a few days doing nothing, don´t. Ali­ prominent the way they go on about her. cante has more to offer than just afavorable ­ Because Copenhagen is so etched into climate. Check out the view from Catillo de the Icelandic psyche WOW air offers flights Santa Barbara or visit the 14th century­ church every week all year round. of Santa Maria. Stroll down Alicante Harbour or the El Palmeral Park and if that doesn’t fill you, feast your eyes on some modern sculptures in Collecia Capa or anything but modern artifacts at the arc­heological muse­ um. Alicante is also a golfers’ paradise. Pack Mercedes-Benz Museum. © Stuttgart-Marketing your sunscreen. GmbH / Brigida González. Stuttgart is outstanding Germany is truly the place to go. If you’ve already been to Berlin and need a new city to add to your list, why not try Stuttgart? Situ­ated in the southwest of Germany this city has a lot of interesting features such as graveyards (yes really!), churches, castles, palaces, parks and lakes. A little known fact is that the area around Stuttgart is home to the biggest wine pro­ duction in Germany with over 400 hectares’ of vineyards. This has influenced the culinary culture of the city resulting in a variety of excellent restaurants. If you are not into fine © Zürich Tourism wining and dining you might be interested to find that Stuttgart is known for its auto Zürich so good in­dustry and sports, football (soccer) especi­ Kaunas go there? The biggest city of Switzerland has more to ally. But, don´t take our word for it. Go and Take a look at Lithuania’s most populous offer than just watches and cheese. Check see for yourself. Pick a date from the 23rd of city, approximately 360 thousand people. out their magnificent buildings, museums, May until the end of August. Throughout the This sounds good already. Kaunas is a city the Opera house and the irresistible Old summer WOW air offers three flights a week. in flux developing into a Western culture Town. Party people go Niederdorf, the Issue 1 ı 91 It’s almost enough to just sit down at a café to watch the bustling life of Parisians. There’s history on every corner, famous buildings and landmarks and perhaps you’ll get a glimpse of some famous people as well. We recommend visiting one district at a time and coming back again for more, more, more. Paris is just a few clicks away. Five flights a week (WOW!) starting next June and through August.

“Paris is a heaven for all woman’s obssesions: hot men, great choco­lates, scrumptious pastries, sexy lingerie, cool clothes © Paris Tourist Office / Photographer: Jacques H3D but, as any shoe-o-phile We’ll always have Paris A city for lovers, fashionistas, artists and art knows, this city is a hot­ lovers, the culturally aware, culinary en­- © Amsterdam Tourism & Convention Board (ATCB) thusi­asts and all who want more beauty bed of fabulous shoes.” in their life. Paris will lift your spirit with its Kirsten Lobe, Paris Don´t miss out on Amsterdam Bastille, Eiffel Tower, Seine, Triumphal Arch, Amsterdam holds the title ‘Short haul desti­ Montmartre and its distinctive districts. Hangover nation of the year for City Breaks’ awarded

92 ı WOW is in the air at the World Travel Market event in London only true downtown skyline, has gained exclusive and extensive thermal spas, the last November. It is also, according to Lonely widespread historical acclaim as the coro­ Alpentherme. With six adventure and vitality Planet, the second hottest destination in nation site of German kings and emperors, worlds spread out the Alpentherme covers the world to visit in 2013. This ranking is as Goethe’s birthplace, and as the site of an area of 32,000 sqare meters and featur­ es­ a probably based on the ‘Amsterdam 2013’ Germany’s first national assembly in 1848. unique 360°panoramic view of the Alps. Bad theme year. In celebration of several incredi­ Today, it is equally well known for its inter­ Hofgastein is part of Ski Amade, a network ble milestones, such as the opening of the national trade shows and as one of Europe’s of 28 ski areas and towns that combined, renovated Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh foremost business and finance centers. Hist­ make up the largest ski area in Europe with Museum and 400 years of the Canal Ring a ory and modernity - side by side! Visit one 860 km of downhill slopes and 278 modern host of special events have been planned of their many museums, try out the famous ski lifts. This town should really rather be throughout the year. The year 2013 prom­ apple wine, learn about the poet Goethe, known as Good Hofgastein! ises to be a festive year for the Amsterdam enjoy the wooded parks and visit Frankfurt’s * A friendly little town, Kirchberg in Tirol Metropolitan Area. very own wine yard, Lohrberg, situated attracts couples, groups, families and any Find your desired event or activity in within the city. dedicated skier looking for a good deal. Ski June, July or August on www.iamsterdam. Don’t be a wiener – be a Frankfurter and holidays in Kirchberg offer bargains to many com/2013 and book your WOW flight before check out WOW air flights to Frankfurt, avail­ of the ski and snowboarding related festivals everybody else catches on. Three flights a able three times a week from June until the held in the region each season. The world week so you won’t miss anything. end of August. famous Hahnenkamm Race Week is just one of these. Kirchberg offers a number of lively pubs that you can party the night away in, as an alternative you can also take a trip into Kitzbühel to try out their après ski scene or try your hand in the casino. There are also plenty of options for snowboarders in the area with a local snowboard park as well as a second near the Kitzbühelerhorn. * Saalbach is one of Austria’s premier ski resorts, offering a wide range of runs, extensive off piste, and an excellent snow record. Skiing can be found on both sides of the valley. The runs on the north side of the valley (south-facing side) tend to be pre­ © Düsseldorf Marketing & Tourismus GmbH / Photographer U. Otte ferred by visitors due to their sunny weather. Just Düsseldorf it! The pistes on the south side of the valley This city is an economic center of Western (north-facing side) are normally in the shade Germany located along the River Rhine. and have better snow coverage, particularly Famous for its nightlife, carnival, events, in late season, as well as more trees. Much shopp­ing and its fashion and trade fairs like of the off piste skiing is found on the north the Boot Messe (one of the world’s best side, where thigh-deep, untouched powder trade fairs for boats and water sports) and can be found only meters from many of the Igedo (world leader in fashion), Düsseldorf pistes. There is a small snowpark in Hinter­ is in the fortunate position of being able to Strut your stuff in Milan glemm, but experienced snowboarders and entertain and surprise its visitors with a wide … or just relax and take in this capital of Lom­ skiers prefer to head to the snow park in the variety of sights to see. Every year, more bardy and its 1.3 million people. A magnetic adjacent valley in Leogang, which boasts than 4 million people visit the Kirmes fun fair point for designers, artists, photographers superior kickers, as well as rails and jibs. which runs for 9 days in the summer. and models, Milan has an ancient city center We weren’t kidding about last call – WOW The famous Old Town (Altstadt) is a won­ with many interesting buildings and palaz­ air is flying to Salzburg once a week in Jan­ drous square kilometer that has more to zos. People from all over the world come uary and February. After that you´ll have tons offer than any other district in Düsseldorf. to see this city of glamour. This has always of other destinations to fly to. The waiters (köbesse) are diamonds in the been a rich and significant city. It has always rough, the next beer comes without being been a center for famous artists and offers a ordered and pork knuckles are a staple of beautiful assortment of churches, buildings people’s diet and monuments. The most spectacular is the WOW yourself over there on one of the Cathedral which is the third largest church three flights a week, available from the end in the world. Another famous church is the of May until the end of August. Santa Maria della Grazie, a home to Leo­ nardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper”. Don´t forget, this is Italy and Italy is ‘bellisimo’. Let WOW air lift you up where you belong, pronto. Flights available on Tuesdays and Saturdays next June through August.

Last call to Salzburg Salzburg’s attractions are loved by millions of visitors from all over the World making it one of Europe’s busiest city all year round. This, however, is not the only reason to take flight to the city. Just some short distance away from the bustling city life you will find Take a tour of the old town in the “Apple Wine Express”, the city´s popular merry streetcar. Photographer: Holger Ullmann Copyright: some of the best ski areas in Austria; Bad Tourismus+Congress GmbH Frankfurt am Main Hofgastein, Kirchberg and Saalbach-Hinter­ Feel up Frankfurt glemm. Frankfurt has always been characterized * In addition to the 250 km of pistes Bad by its colorful variety of urban contrasts. Hofgastein is also an esteemed well­ The Main metropolis, home of Germany´s ness resort offering one of Europe‘s most Photo: ©Saalbach Hinterglemm Issue 1 ı 93 Airbus makes the world go round Environmental emphasis in the air Europe´s answer to the US dominating the commercial airline industry is Airbus. A joint European­ consortium of the continent´s leading aviation firms such as UK´s Hawker Siddeley, France´s Breg- uet Nord and Germany´s Arbeitsgemeinschaft and other companies from Spain, Holland and Italy. Airbus Industries was formally formed on the 18th of December, 1970, and today it is a leading air- craft manufacturer playing a pioneering role in the international­ air transport industry’s evolution. This trend will continue over the coming decades, as Airbus leverages innovation solutions to further improve the economic efficiency and environmental performance of commercial aviation. By Jón Kristinn Snæhólm

for passengers, along with Technical data: opportunities­­­ for wider aisles and Pilots: 2 increased overhead storage bins. Cabin crew: 4 WOW air’s fleet consists of Passengers: 168 four new A320´s and its safety Propulsion: 2 turbofan engines record is one of the greatest Speed: 904 km/h - 562 mph - 488 kts in the world, a record held up Service ceiling: 12,131 m – 39,800 ft by extensive and professional Range: 5,700 km – 3,542 mi maintenance on the ground. Empty weight: 37,230 kg – 82,078 lbs Max. takeoff weight: 77,000 kg – 196,756 lbs Advance technology Max. landing weight: 64,500 kg – 142,198 lbs The A320’s advanced techn­ ­­- Wing span: 34.09 m – 111.8 ft olo­gy includes the extensive Wing area: 122.6 m2 – 1,320 ft use of weight-saving compos­ protection for improved safety the effort to reduce pollution Height: 11.76 m - 38.6 ft ites, an optimized wing that is and reduced pilot workl­oad, and dependence on oil. The 20 per cent more efficient than along with im­proved flight company in conjunction with previous designs, a centralized smoothness and stability, and lead­ing firms is trying to develop You are here fault display for easier trouble­ fewer mechanical parts. a bio fuel that could be used in If you are reading this while fly­ shooting and lower mainte­ the next decade and cover one ing you are currently sitting in an nance costs, along with Airbus’ Navigating the future third of the world commercial Airbus A320, Airbus’ best-selling fly-by-wire flight controls. Advanced navigation techno­ l­­ airplane needs. A plan to create single-aisle product line, which The advantages of the fly-by- ogy contributes to the A320’s a bio fuel that won´t affect can seat up to 180 passengers. wire controls – which were operational flexibility. This includ­ food resources is the proposal. The A320’s right-sized fuselage pioneered on the A320 – are es the Required Navigation Per­ Thus Airbus will be the leading is seven inches wider than its many. They provide total flight formance (RNP) capability, which manufacturer of environmental competitors, enhancing comfort envelope and airframe structural reduces approach distances friendly passenger aircrafts in for landing while reducing fuel the near future. The advantages of the fly-by-wire controls – consumption and CO2 emis­ which were pioneered on the A320 – are many. sions; and the Global Position y flying WOW air you are They provide total flight envelope and airframe (GPS) landing system, allowing not only saving money, structural­ protection for improved safety and instrument-type approaches­ Byou are kind of saving the where ground stations are not planet too. And since WOW air ­reduced pilot workload, along with improved available. Airbus has joined is Iceland’s most punctual airline flight smoothness and stability, other leading companies in you are also saving time.

94 ı WOW is in the air

This and that

Winter Lights in Reykjavík 7.-10. February A warm welcome n pages 72-74 you will come he Reykjavik Winter Lights Festival and it is across an article about sea pack­ed with exciting events. The Festival Oswimming in the Atlantic celebrates both winter and the growing light during winter. Just know that there after a long period of darkness. It is an event are warmer ways to take a dive to be enjoyed by all, locals and visitors alike, because there are more than 170 Tand features an amazing array of events including the­ geothermal pools in Iceland. atre, street performances, dance, visual arts and much Iceland is known for its natural more. All the major cultural and educational institu­ hot springs and spa culture, which tions participate in the festival and sports clubs, galler­ is widely celebrated across the ies, artists, shops, restaurants and many more join in country. One of the nations’ favorite the fun. Among events are Museum Night, Swimming pastimes is chilling out in the various Pool Night, International Children’s Day and Photo­ hot pots dotted across the island’s graphers Day. All events are free of charge. townships. For more information visit www.vetrarhatid.is

where original sourdough breads with organic Scandinavian wheat are A sweet genius his main product. Asgeir Sandholt was Iceland’s candi­ All chocolates and pralines are hand date at the World Chocolate Masters made by Ásgeir and for sale in the competition in October 2011 and small Sandholt bakery where custom­ came in 5th, only 1 1/2 points from ers queue up on weekends for their the winner. He is the heir and 4th freshly baked croissants and breads. generation of the renowned Sandholt family which has been baking bread “He is the heir and 4th genera­ at Laugavegur 36 for nearly 100 tion of the renowned Sandholt years. He has made a name for him­ family which has been baking self as a “konditori” (pastry chef) and bread at Laugavegur 36 for chocolate master as well as a baker nearly 100 years.”

A child´s first pair of shoes should be as natural and beautiful as is your child

Icelandic beers excel on inter­- nati­onal grounds t World Beer Awards 2012 two Icelandic beers got a grand prize. Úlfur got named Europe’s best IPA (Indian Pale Ale) and ABríó was awarded the title Best Lager Pilsner in Europe. Bríó BabyK shoes are lovingly made to make little feet happy, to give your then went on to win the World’s best Lager Pilsner title. Both beers are child lucky steps. These shoes are made from Icelandic fish, lamb, and brewed at Borg Brugghús and Bríó was developed in collaboration reindeer skins. They are all made of natural produce, which means no pair with renowned bar Ölstofa Kormáks og Skjaldar. Bríó had previously is identical. One of a kind and beautiful. won its category of german pilsners at the World Beer cup. Here’s what the judges said about Bríó: “Good malt, sherbet nose. Lots of hops and lemon zest in good balance. Malty and fruity hops on the palate. Nice and clean. Big hoppy finish.” About Úlfur: “Beeswax and toffee on the nose. Very oily, coconut www. .is aroma. Sweet under currents to the palate, more toffee, creamy malt and bitter hops balance. Pleasant honeyed notes.”

96 ı WOW is in the air The history of Iceland here are count­ they cooked their meals less folk muse­ on a fire in the living Tums all over the room and what utensils country; every county they used. The items on and many of the major display vary from cook­ communities can boast ing utensils to spinning one. They focus mainly wheels and weaving on the history of Iceland, equipment, harnesses with the emphasis on lo­ and mousetraps, and just cal artefacts dating from about everything else in Iceland still in top 10 according the late 19th century. You between! can get a very good feel Talking of turf buildings, to Lonely Planet for how people lived in Iceland also has quite those days by visiting a few turf churches, his strange land inspires devotion. valued the króna by 75% – also helped any of these museums. most dating from the Ask any tourist during your trip to make a trip much more favorable to the Some include (or are late 19th century, which TIceland and you’ll quickly see that wallet. As the global economy starts to actually housed in) old have been beautifully everyone develops an unconditional heal, prices are climbing once more. turf buildings, which preserved and are well love for the little island nation, whether The spoils of Iceland are no longer a were used as homes as worth a visit. The north it’s for the mind-bending scenery, the secret, but they’re still yours for the late as the 20th century. is the best place to see platefuls of delicious lamb and fish dish­ taking – and in 2013 you’ll still be well You can see how people them, but they can also es, or the sincere local hospitality. The ahead of the curve. slept two by two in be found in other areas, currency crash – which effectively de­ www.visiticeland.com narrow little beds, how including Reykjavík.

Funky, fresh and full of flavour! www.rub23.is

RUB23 | Aðalstræti 2 | 101 Reykjavík Phone: +354 553 5323 | [email protected]

RUB23 | Kaupvangsstræti 6 | 600 Akureyri Phone: +354 462 2223 | [email protected]

Issue 1 ı 97 The Traveling Inquisition

A flying star Þórunn Antonía Magnúsdóttir has been singing since she was a child. She released her first solo album in 2001 and since then she’s both lived and worked in London and Los Angeles. She has worked with bands like Junior Senior, Dhani Harrison’s band Thenewno2 and sang background vocals with Beck. Currently Þórunn is based in Iceland although she travels often to promote her most recent record Star Crossed for which she has been called “a genuinely­ exciting pop discovery”. For this first ­issue of WOW she became a victim of “The Traveling­ Inquisition” and was asked a few questions about her favorite places.

By Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photo: Karl Petersson

What is your favorite city abroad and why? “I have to say Los Angeles. I have so many good memories from there since I first visited and I’ve been there often to visit friends and work on my music. There is something so charming about the palm trees, the old Hollywood glamour and the sunshine. Also the Mexican food there is so good. I know of few better things than eating fresh guacamole and drinking a Margarita in the sun. And it’s so beautiful to go to the Griffith Observatory where you watch the city from a huge balcony and learn about the solar system. I also love the nightlife in Loz Feliz and West Hollywood. What is the strangest thing you’ve experienced overseas? “There is a lot to choose from ... I’ve gotten lost in Tokyo which was very challenging with all the street signs in Japanese. One time after a performance, a fan gave me a box full of whipped cream. I’m still trying to figure out what that means! But the strang­ est experience has to be in Spain. I was visiting a water park and got stuck at the top of a roller coaster. I was rescued by a man who escorted me down a rickety ladder which ended in a mud puddle where wild pigs roamed.”

What do you recommend to people visiting Iceland? “Definitely the natural thermal pools. There is also an abundance of good restaurants. Some of my favorites include Við Tjörnina, The Fish Market and Sushi Samba. For the people interested in having a look at the night life I recom­ mend my favorite bars and clubs such as Kaffibarinn, Prikið, Boston and Dolly.”

What do you miss most about Iceland when you’re traveling? “My friends and family and having dinner at my mother’s house – seeing the mountains when walking downtown and being close to the ocean.”

Have you planned your next trip abroad? “I am going to London to finish a music video to the song “Electrify my Heartbreak” from my latest CD Star crossed. The video will be directed by my good friend Þóra Hilmarsdóttir. I might perform once while I’m there but I’ll also try to relax a little and maybe do a little Christmas shopping.”

What countries or cities haven’t you visited yet, but would like to? “I really want to visit Peru, Prague, Moscow, Thailand, Bora Bora, Mexico, the Faroe Islands ... my list is so long that it looks like I’ll have to do a world tour!”

98 ı WOW is in the air facebook.com/noisirius