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NEW YORK COLLECTIONS ROSETTA’S ALTUZARRA, ALEXANDER WANG, TURN DEREK LAM AND ROSETTA GETTY PRABAL GURUNG WERE IS LAUNCHING A AMONG THE HIGHLIGHTS DESIGNER LINE. AS FASHION WEEK PARTY BEAT PAGE 20 ROLLED ON. FROM BERLUTI TO PRABAL, ALL THE PAGES 10 TO 16. ACTION AT THE FASHION PARTIES. PAGE 22

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BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY Fashion’s Yogi Bares It THIRTY — recognized universally as a milestone birthday. It certainly is for Donna Karan, whose show tonight marks her brand’s 30th anniversary, an anniversary she never intended to have. When Donna went to her bosses at Anne Klein three decades ago with a modest idea for a seven- easy-pieces line that would appeal to her and her friends, she intended it as a little spin- off under the auspices of Anne Klein. Instead the suits offered — make that insisted upon — a total break and the establishment of a separate company. After her blockbuster, bodysuited launch in black and gold for fall 1985, Donna was

off and running — and not just THOMAS IANNACCONE sartorially speaking. Anyone who knows her knows that her fashion Donna Karan is linked inextricably with her PHOTO BY world view, which integrates reflecting a little bit. I don’t think business and philanthropy I’ve ever changed — that bores me. with a particular focus on the I look at the journey of a woman; development of artisanal crafts I’m exactly the same person I around the world. Those who know was in 1974. When I started this Donna (or who have ever seen or company in 1984 — I look at my read an interview with her) also book here and think that I’m the know that her conversation is same person. I haven’t changed. circuitous, often covering runway, yoga studio, Haiti and the lost joy WWD: Describe that person. of HotPants in short order. D.K.: Sensual. The body. It always The big 3-0 approaching, starts with the body, the body WWD wanted Donna to riff meaning yoga. Clothes that move. and reminiscence. And so she A woman on the go. Traveling did, over a healthy, beautifully constantly, back and forth. Cold presented don’t-ask-for-Diet-Coke shoulder.…I think I’m a little bit lunch at her Central Park West of a hippie. I think I respect the apartment. In the space of a few working woman and understand sentences (albeit many long, run- her, but I see her more as her body on sentences), she offered a string and that whole concept of “I want of pearls: “Our industry is on to make it easy for her in seven narcotics with the Internet.” “The easy pieces.” What are the must- sky is going to look different today haves? With me, it always starts than it did yesterday.” “Doing is with a bodysuit. Always. I wear a Going for Gold much more exciting [than thinking] bodysuit every single day of my — doing and being involved.” life. Some people get it, some It’s no secret Diane von Furstenberg has big plans for her brand, from Perhaps not surprisingly, she called people don’t. I think I was a little herself “probably the biggest yogi bit ahead of my time because I’ve continued global expansion to a possible IPO. And it all started with the in fashion design.” been doing yoga since I was 18. wrap dress. Von Furstenberg’s fall collection celebrated 40 years in business We talked at length and if in editing the transcript I noted a WWD: When you said, “I’m the same with several variations on the now staple, including this short, shimmering dearth of what one might call woman I always was,” I didn’t expect version. For more on New York Fashion Week, see pages 10 to 16. hard-core (or even superficial) you to go right to the clothes. business analysis, it was still D.K.: Obviously I’m talking to two hours of unbridled Donna Women’s Wear Daily and we’re — which is to say heady, a little talking clothes. Weirdly enough, if wacky and wonderful. I look holistically at myself — yes, I’ve done yoga all my life. I haven’t WWD: Thirty years. Do you think changed. I bore me. I travel. East- in terms of milestones? meets-West has always been the Donna Karan: This is the first time. most important thing for me. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER In doing the show, I’ve been SEE PAGE 8

MONTRÉAL VANCOUVER TORONTO DELHI

6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 WWD.COM Tazreen Factory Owners Jailed THE BRIEFING BOX The case is even more significant because of IN TODAY’S WWD By MAYU SAINI the interconnecting relationships between factory owners and politicians, trade union leaders have THE OWNER OF Tazreen Fashions Ltd. and said repeatedly since the incident. This has made his wife surrendered to the court in Dhaka, it difficult for factory owners to be indicted in ear- Bangladesh, on Sunday as workers outside the lier factory tragedies, even when there was clear New York Fashion Week courtroom called for them to be punished, seeking evidence of negligence. street style. For more, vindication for the 111 workers who were killed in It is also noteworthy, according to analysts, as see WWD.com. the fire at the factory on Nov. 24, 2012. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina’s government has been After several investigations and reports by the sworn in for a second term on Jan. 12 and is being authorities, the Dhaka court on Dec. 22 indicted 13 watched carefully by industry leaders and workers to people for culpable homicide in the case of the fire. see what actions she takes to restore the reputation of However, Delwar Hossain and his wife, Mahmuda Bangladesh’s textile and apparel industry. Akter, who was chairwoman of the company, were It also comes on the heels of a statement by among five people who went missing after the Human Rights Watch on Thursday that cautioned charges were made and arrest warrants were is- that employers continue to intimidate and threaten sued by the court on Dec. 31. workers about forming trade unions. The organiza-

Senior Judicial Magistrate Tajul Islam denied tion called on the Bangladesh government to step KIBLER RYAN bail to both on Sunday. in and stop garment factory owners from doing so. Workers have been demanding the arrest and “Workers interviewed claimed that some man- death penalty for the couple since the fire broke agers intimidate and mistreat employees involved PHOTO BY out. Their anger against the employers and man- in setting up unions, including threatening to kill agement of the company has been fueled by the fact them,” Human Rights Watch said. “Some union or- that the exit gate was allegedly locked by company ganizers said they were beaten up and others said Donna Karan sits down for a Q&A covering her 30 years in the personnel, preventing an exit for the workers who they had lost their jobs or had been forced to re- fashion industry. PAGE 1 were scrambling to escape the fire. Workers were sign. Factory owners sometimes used local gang- forced to jump from the windows of the building, sters to threaten or attack workers outside the The owner of Tazreen Fashions Ltd. and his wife surrendered to resulting in additional deaths and serious injuries. workplace, including at their homes.” the court in Dhaka, Bangladesh, on Sunday. PAGE 6

Paris-based luxury resale site Vestiaire Collective, whose backers include Condé Nast International, is preparing to launch Vestiaire Collective Preps for U.S. Launch in the United States and Italy. PAGE 6

partners. “The quality of the products is incredible. Hugo Boss closed 2013 with a 7 percent increase in operating By JOELLE DIDERICH That’s what matters the most to me, because the war profit and 6 percent increase in currency-adjusted sales, between marketplaces is waged on supply.” PAGE 6 PARIS — Paris-based luxury resale site Vestiaire By tracking popular products, Vestiaire meeting the group’s sales and earnings targets. Collective, whose backers include Condé Nast Collective focuses on the most profitable items, International, is preparing to launch in the United which it asks sellers to send to its headquarters be- Innerwear executives are feeling bullish about the upcoming States and Italy. fore putting them on sale, guaranteeing they reach Curve trade shows this month. PAGE 18 Founded in 2009, the social shopping site offers buyers more quickly. “Increasingly, we are shifting items from brands including Chanel, Hermès and to a consignment system, having the products on Rosetta Getty, wife of Balthazar Getty and no stranger to the Céline, with 2 million members in countries as far tap,” Fabre said. fashion industry, discusses her new fall collection, which opens afield as Iceland, Australia and China. Speed and quality of service are especially im- in New York today. PAGE 20 Having focused initially on building a strong com- portant in the U.S., he noted, saying the company has munity and a solid offer- a team of four people in A rash of shootings on mall properties worldwide has brought ing that promises to filter New York and will hire 10 the issue of mall security into the spotlight. PAGE 20 out counterfeits, the site more this year. is on track to post its first Mobile transactions Time Inc. employees are beginning to feel the company’s organic profit in 2014, account for 55 percent mandate to cut costs before it spins off from parent company said Sébastien Fabre, of revenues, up from 10 Time Warner. PAGE 21 Vestiaire’s chief execu- percent in October 2012, tive officer. and new developments A slew of industry executive came out Thursday night to He forecasts revenues will be targeted at mo- celebrate Vince’s initial public offering. PAGE 21 will approach 60 million bile consumers, with the euros, or $81.3 million at planned introduction of current exchange, in 2014 an electronic wallet func- The New York Fashion Week party scene picked up steam as PAGE 22 versus 27 million euros, tion that will allow trans- the shows got into full swing. or $35.9 million, in 2013. actions to pass directly Vestiaire Collective between users. The collection Diane von Furstenberg showed coincided with has already launched Fabre also sees great the 40th anniversary of the wrap dress and the front row was a testament to the designer’s appeal. PAGE 23 in the United Kingdom The Vestiaire Collective Web site. potential synergies be- and Germany, with the tween Vestiaire Collective U.S. to follow later this month and Italy in June. Its and Condé Nast, which in September 2013 led a ON WWD.COM users post 2,200 new products a day, up from 980 $20 million investment in the site alongside private in January 2013, and buyers are spread across 40 equity firm Idinvest Partners and existing inves- countries, with the top markets being France, the tors, London-based venture capital firms Balderton THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto U.K., Germany and Italy. Capital and Ventech. the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from New York Fabre expects international markets will ac- Editors at Vogue, Glamour and GQ have made a Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. count for 50 percent of the site’s revenues by the selection of products on the site, Vestiairecollective. end of 2014, versus 40 percent at present. com, and there are plans to integrate more editorial “Vestiaire’s ambition is to become a real destina- content. Fabre also sees Condé Nast’s “critical mass” tion for fashion,” said the ceo, who worked at Vivendi as key to accelerating growth in the U.S. and entering FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA and Microsoft before founding the site with five markets such as Russia and Asia in the future. @ WWD.com/social

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8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 Fashion’s Yo g i Bares It

PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE

{Continued from page one} “we.” There are WWD: What do you mean WWD: You’ve never thought about But it’s not either or. If I was these two opposing “a model of the world”? mortality before? just investing myself, that’s not Yo u know, putting worlds that we’re D.K.: Of the developing world. D.K.: It’s not mortality as much enough. I need the financial the world together living in right now Listen, there are problems as age. I’m not getting as far as investment in order to manifest. as one.…If there is and it’s frustrating. all over the world. How do mortality. There’s a difference a problem, I believe We’re all trying to we help make a ’’ difference? between mortality and age. WWD: Could you imagine an investor there is a solution, find the solution The difference is not only for Before, I could have done being so generous with a young whatever level that because at the end them, but also for me. There’s something more slowly because designer today? may be. Commerce and of the day, all you a little selfishness here. I get I had so much time to do it and D.K.: If the designer had philanthropy. I think if want is happiness. tremendous joy out of it — to be now, what I want to get done already proved himself [like] somebody were to say, Bridget Foley ’s Joy and happiness. able to help somebody. Now, my I need to get done faster. The I had. There’s a very big “Who is Donna Karan?” Diary Where are the joy dream? Haiti in Harlem. It’s not same 10 years that I would have difference. I had built two That would be sort of and happiness? just Haiti. It’s a model. used for a development process, brands — Anne Klein and Anne the totality of who I am Do I feel it when I now I want to do it in two to Klein II. So, you don’t look at as a person because it’s never put something on? When I see WWD: You have a lot on your mind. three. Before, it would never me as you would a young kid about what you’re wearing on something beautiful? I know that D.K.: What do I want to even conjure a thought. Time? I starting out who has never the outside, it’s what you’re when I’m creating, I feel joy and accomplish? There are certain never even thought of it. proved himself yet. wearing on the inside. The happiness.…I think all artists — whole you.…I don’t want to be it’s a blessing that you’re given WWD: Would you advise younger negative; let’s be positive. that you can get out of your head designers to work for someone and into your heart. else first? WWD: Do you feel the world is We’re all trying to find the solution D.K.: Yes. But whether it’s your heading toward the positive? WWD: Are you an artist, and is own brand [or not] own it. I have D.K.: One never knows. What fashion art? a young designer at Urban Zen was the movie? With the trees? D.K.: Yes. because at the end of the day, all you — a kid out of a school, Bessie. With the crystal tree? “Avatar.” She’s a little me…it’s kind of “Avatar” said it all. There is WWD: You’ve changed your position want is happiness. Joy and happiness. weird. She owns it as if it’s hers. a masculine and a feminine, on that. In something I read last The same with Jane Chung. Jane two different entities. We are night you said Stephan [Weiss, Chung owns DKNY. She owns going into a feminine age. I Karan’s late husband] taught you it. I gave it to her. She came to think the Age of Aquarius is not that what you’re doing is not art. things where I say, “No, not in WWD: When you launched Donna me saying she would like to do it something unusual. I think the D.K.: [Fashion] is a creative this lifetime.” Maybe in my next Karan, you told WWD that you got and she got it. feminine is coming into being, expression. Is it an art piece? one. But, there are more things 50 percent of the brand for — and I don’t mean feminine as No. It’s a creative expression. that I would like to accomplish your word — a “token” financial WWD: DKNY was Jane’s idea? in male and female. I mean That’s where I would process it that I have time for. This is the investment. Talk about financial D.K.: Yes, DKNY was her idea. a feminine energy, which is differently. Is this an art piece? first time I’ve started to think versus human investment. What had happened was that about caring and sharing, and [She handles the bold beaded about it. I never have before. D.K.: I don’t think you can my daughter and all of her being outside of yourself. Yet, Hatian necklace she wears.] compare the two. Human friends were stealing all of my on the other side, I see the Yo u see, Haiti for me is a model WWD: About? investment — that’s what makes clothes, and it really pissed dichotomy of the “me,” not the for the rest of the world. D.K.: Time. the company. That’’ is the brand. me off. I realized that I had a WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 9 WWD.COM bigger audience than I thought I always know that I want to are creative because there is need because of the Christmas change à la a soulful economy, I had. I wanted a lifestyle for evolve. I know what I get bored nothing else. They are naturally holiday. Let’s get clear on the à la, “we have a problem with myself and for my husband. He wearing. I know I get bored not creative. I look at Bally — Bally availability, what there is to do health care right now” — I needed more clothes than I was showing. I know when I want is my inspiration. Bally has and the time there is to do it. I want to solve that problem. On doing at Donna Karan. Jane to explore something new that bamboo schools and it’s got the think that American designers a philanthropic base, I want to was working for me and she I haven’t done, I’m inspired. Hilton Hotel. My biggest fear accomplish brilliance relative build yoga. I feel strongly about says, “I’ll do DKNY.” Thank God for inspiration. is losing our cultures. It’s not to what their time scope is. it. That’s really something that Inspiration has always been my either/or for me, it’s “and.” I’ve We’re using European fabrics I can do with my eyes closed. I WWD: You saw DKNY as lifestyle lead. Vision and inspiration. been touched by culture. I’ve and European manufacturers have a dream. I do have a dream. brand from the start. I saw something my friend been inspired by it my whole — they don’t go back to work D.K.: I never felt that any of these [photographer and filmmaker] life. Whether it’s the sky, the until January. It’s a bitch. WWD: Tell me more. companies were about clothes. Steven Sebring did at the water, or the lights — it’s bigger D.K.: It’s a dream where life does For me, it was always about Armory. We talked about a than fashion. WWD: But you make it work. not separate itself from fashion, life. It was more important that collaboration. He came up with D.K. I’m telling you that it could from living, or from anything I had the cafe, the umbrellas, an idea, this film concept that I WWD: How did the Donna Karan work for a 35-piece collection. else like that, but to realize it in the flowers.…To me, DKNY was went, “Oh my God, that is me!” brand happen? If it was like the old days, a holistic way. It’s really the final that for the streets of New York. We’re filming it tomorrow. D.K.: Well, I had this little idea. where we had to do these connection of the dots. I want When you walk into Urban Zen, I had this idea of what I wanted larger collections — to build a hotel condominium. it’s life. It’s not about clothes. WWD: Is this for the anniversary? to do and what was missing in I want to build a spa. I want That has always been who I am. D.K.: I thought, “Oh my God. If fashion. I bore me. This is going WWD: You do the pre-seasons. to build a center of change. At Yes, I love to do clothes but I this isn’t me, I don’t know what to be the most boring article. D.K. That’s a bitch, too. You Urban Zen, downtown. I need was never just a designer. Anne is.” It was a woman in motion. think it’s easy to do these more buildings, but I have a Klein taught me this very early It showed the body, motion, WWD: But you wanted to do it within little collections? The fabrics whole dream. on: Designing a toothbrush is as and emotion. It was large, with Anne Klein and were told no? aren’t ready… important as designing clothes. big.…I said, “Why don’t we do D.K.: Yes, they threw me out of WWD: Are you looking for investors? A designer is a seer, a visionary, it for our show?” the Anne Klein Co. WWD: I don’t think it’s easy. D.K.: I’m looking for partners a creator— creating a house, D.K.: What I’m saying is that in crime — people of like mind creating whatever. WWD: So what are the plans WWD: But they backed you. we’re not showing you the latest who want to join this movement.

for anniversary? D.K.: They said, “Would you fabrics. You’re not seeing the It’s a movement to say, “OK, WWD: What were the lessons that you D.K.: You know what? I never rather go with us or go on your newest fabrics and you’re not philanthropy and commerce, took from Anne Klein — consciously know what’s going down the own?” I was traumatized. I seeing the new anything. That’s a soulful economy…” It’s and unconsciously — on which you runway until the night before said, “But I’m Anne Klein — I why Europeans wait; they wait people who really eat it, sleep started your own company? the show. designed Anne Klein longer until they get their fabrics. It all it, breathe it and drink it, like D.K.: The passion for design. than Anne Klein.” That was starts with yarn and fabrication. what Carla Sozzani is doing

The passion for the creative WWD: But there will be a video. Are weird. It’s like today; they still I can sit until I’m deathly blue in now in Africa. It’s people who aspect of design. The fit; I saw there other components? think Calvin is Calvin. my face, but if the fabric is not are engaged. In Haiti, there’s a how concentrated she was on D.K.: No. It’s going to be a real available, I’m not going to get it. community of people who cared. the fit of clothes. fashion show. WWD: Who are “they”? Now, I have West Elm coming D.K.: The consumer. My yoga WWD: LVMH bought your company down to Haiti, which is really WWD: She was passionate about fit? WWD: What are you most proud of? teacher, she didn’t know Calvin for $600 million. Did the money amazing. They’ve made a huge D.K.: Yes. Then I changed it to Is it what you said that most women wasn’t designing’’ . change you? commitment. Toms Shoes is my fit, a different one. She had can feel wonderful in your clothes? D.K.: No. That’s the weird part building a factory.…The reason a belly and the pants fit this D.K.: I like my clothes. I have WWD: Despite the endless media of it. People say to me, “You’re that I keep saying it’s Haiti is way, and I had a butt and no something to wear. coverage, not everyone lives and Donna Karan?” If people because it’s only three hours belly so the pants fit that way. dies over the comings and goings are really surprised that I away and it’s easy to get to. So, when I changed the balance WWD: You don’t wear other people’s of fashion. am who I am, I have never Yes, I want to go to Africa. Yes, of the pants, the company went, clothes, do you? D.K.: I know that. This been affected. I appreciate I want to go to India. I went “Oh my God!” D.K.: I love other fashion. industry needs to learn a little it. Do not [misunderstand]; to India and I went, “Oh my something. The industry can the things I have been able to God.” My soul was in the block WWD: Were you each your own muse? WWD: Who? be so powerful. You want to create — could I have done it printing, the hand-printing and D.K.: To a certain extent. D.K.: Whose clothes? Rick know what excites me? The without that money? No. There seeing as a designer the endless It was the way she saw the Owens. I went to Rick once and potential that this industry is no way. Could I have done possibilities of what I haven’t body. Her little miniskirts… I asked him to do Donna Karan. even begun to touch. she was more tailored and It was kind of weird. I walked more preppy. I’m a little in and thought that it looked WWD: Does Donna the philanthropist more hippie. I was all about more like me than me. Respectfully speaking, bless me ever trump Donna the designer? HotPants, wrap-around D.K.: No. Never. The designer sandals. It bores me that I’m WWD: Who else? for that. That’s my gift to women — I helps the philanthropist still that person. I still like D.K.: Hedi Slimane. Yohji. because a designer is able to Roman sandals; big, full skirts, Comme. Dover Street is know how to accent the positive and give that into philanthropy. It’s bodysuits; skinny T-shirts brilliant. It’s everything I not either/or for me. It never HotPants — if I could still believe in. My dream store is has been. Look what happened wear HotPants… multiple designers and art. delete the negative. If there’s anything with Seventh on Sale. It was, “here’s a problem, and here’s WWD: Do you think even in this age WWD: Do you like what Hedi is doing that I brought to fashion, it’s making a solution.” Super Saturday. of hyper-fitness, that fashionwise, at Saint Laurent? Ovarian cancer — no one knew the ship still sails on certain things? D.K.: Some. I respect his a woman feel like a woman. about it. Let’s take fashion D.K.: Oh, God yes. Respectfully gumption. I respect the fact and philanthropy and put it speaking, bless me for that. that he wants to take this together. I haven’t thought That’s my gift to women — I brand and do it. I think some about this today. This is not a know how to accent the positive of it is really good and his hasn’t even touched upon — Urban Zen? No. Would I have new idea. This is who I am. and delete the negative. If tailoring is excellent. He does what its opportunity is. There appreciated if it was part of there’s anything that I brought excellent tailoring. are problems in this industry Donna Karan? Absolutely. WWD: Do you have favorite collections? to fashion, it’s making a woman that can be fixed just like that. D.K.: There are bits and pieces feel like a woman — whether WWD: In terms of your work, what’s It’s not nuclear science. WWD: You would prefer Urban Zen to of each one that I really love, she’s a size 4 or a size 16. most important to you right now? be part of the Donna Karan company? and you’ll see it. D.K.: [The idea of] bringing WWD: What can be fixed just like that? D.K.: I would prefer it to be WWD: Do you think that with your a soulful economy to the D.K.: Really simple. Do not together. [The money] allowed WWD: So is this show a retrospective? philanthropy, your travels and your consumer as a movement. It’s deliver fall until September. me to do it, to build a dream. D.K.: No, but it will take into cultural scope, you’ve taken your eye like, what is the next step after But, would I prefer it to [consideration] the point that off the fashion ball? organic? It’s putting the artist WWD: It can be fixed “like that” only if be a part of Donn’’a Karan? [some things] are as good D.K.: Not at all. What I can back into the product and everyone shifts to your point of view. Absolutely. today as back then. I’m not do in a minute, most people being able to say that there is D.K.: Helmut [Lang] switches the doing it as a retrospective. take a week to do. I just do an artisan hand that went into calendar. I almost died. Today, I WWD: Why? This time I’m starting it faster and quicker. I see it it. There’s a soul that thought could almost kill him for it. D.K.: I find it very bifurcating. backwards, with the evening. very quickly and you don’t about it, and it’s not just a I’d like us all to be on the same want me around because then machine. Now, the machine WWD: That was a particular moment page. I’m one person. I like the WWD: Why? I can labor over it. You can can be soulful, too, if the in time. Given his “outsider” status, totality of who I am. I don’t want D.K.: Because of the shoot we’re overanalyze something or you surroundings are soulful. Helmut was probably the only person to have to talk to you about doing tomorrow. can move through it. I come who could have made that change Urban Zen and Donna Karan. in and in five minutes, I can WWD: Is it risky projecting human alone. Everyone else followed To me, I’m all one person; it’s WWD: Is the shoot evening-centric? analyze it. qualities into clothes, soulfulness, because it felt right. very hard for me to talk about D.K.: It’s movement-centric. for instance? D.K.: Personally, I didn’t want me as two people. I find that Volume-centric. It’s fabrics. WWD: How do you make sure that D.K.: It’s that you have to do it. Forget the business very complicated. It’s going to be about really you’re evolving as a designer? compassion and you care about side. I know the difficulty celebrating New York. D.K.: The biggest lesson it. What Toms Shoes has done. that we have as American WWD: You talked about the time you came from doing men’s wear What Maiyet has explored. We designers. To get what we need have to do things. What else do you WWD: Why do you always end your because your eye looks at all know there is a developing is literally almost impossible. want to do? show notes with “to be continued…”? the miniscule details…it’s world. There is a problematic We’re shortchanged; there is no D.K.: My dream is to build a D.K.: I always put “the end” fabric, it’s color, it’s how you world out there. A solution question about it. In the long center of change, a community on it, and [Patti Cohen] keeps take a smorgasbord and put to [poverty] is giving these run, we can’t get the fabrics, the of change. Where people come putting “to be continued.” It’s it together and proportion it. people jobs. By nature, they shoes, etc. We can’t get what we together who want to create never-ending. 10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014

Altuzarra: With each season, Joseph Altuzarra Alexander Wang Altuzarra strengthens his position as one of the most compelling younger designers working in fashion today. A soigné elegance anchored the designer’s fall collection that incorporated artful flourishes inspired by a trip to Art Basel. “Easy with a little bit of grace about it, yet still very sensual,” Altuzarra said during a preview. It was exquisite. He started by thinking about the nature of luxury and craft, both their intimate and obvious manifestations. His first thought was that luxury can’t be surface only, so he set out to make each piece equally inviting inside and out, a point introduced with double-faced coats and suits. Their tonal contrasts were delivered at times demonstratively — swaths of tomato against olive green — and sometimes as subtlety as a royal blue facing on the belt of a black coat. Altuzarra varied the degree of ease, from shapes that looked like the chicest of bathrobes to those cut with sharp, sleek lines. A pair of curvy dresses in ladylike gray with insets of bright orange and fuchsia were stunners. Such looks were inspired by the stark, precise steelwork of artist Maria Pergay. Had Altuzarra worked from that premise alone it would have been enough, given the strength of the clothes. Instead, he moved in an apparently antithetical direction with colorful, intensely textured hand-woven pieces. Influenced by the work of Sheila Hicks, these were gorgeous in their artisanal imperfection. Then came a pair of joyfully flashy plaid furs. (One might extract a nod to Perry Ellis.) Ye t before you knew it, he was into his finale of fleece jackets and coats — all white and no-nonsense, except inside each was painted a vibrant hue not seen from the runway. It all held together beautifully within Altuzarra’s umbrella of au courant luxury.

Diane von Furstenberg: It’s been exactly 40 years since a seductive Belgian with a big name and even bigger dreams turned the bathrobe on its head and created the jersey wrap dress. The style became an instant hit and a staple in the working woman’s wardrobe, transforming Diane von Furstenberg from a European princess into one of fashion’s biggest names. Much has changed sartorially since then but the designer has been able reinvent the wrap for a new generation, most recently gaining currency again via Amy Adams’ Fall 2014 character in “American Hustle.” On Sunday evening, von Furstenberg celebrated her milestone on the runway with several bold statements, from the new venue choice, Spring Studios, to a New Yo r k live performance by St. Vincent and fall clothes that featured, of course, plenty of variations on the wrap. The designer even reminded everyone that she has yet to exhaust the puns: “Bohemian Wrapsody” was the name of this collection. Collections Von Furstenberg made her point from the first few exits. Karen Elson opened BIG GUNS, BIG NEWS. SOME OF FASHION’S in a gold jacquard version and was TOP PLAYERS CAME OUT OVER THE WEEKEND followed by Karlie Kloss in a similar design, this one over flared pants and WITH AN ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION, AN under a wave-patterned jacquard coat. OUTERBOROUGH ADVENTURE AND LOTS OF CHIC. The riffs on the wrap continued: here, a printed blouse; there, a languid dress with plunging neckline. Classic versions included a black number, its skirt Brooklyn Navy Yard. The horror. In fact, would let him forget it if he dragged ev- moved into a colorful, paisley foulard printed and slightly voluminous. those able to arrive early found entry a eryone to Brooklyn for a flop. moment, before escalating the fabric de- But von Furstenberg’s standouts were breeze, while many guests arriving from He met that challenge with an im- velopment into very cool knotted leath- actually those free of drapery. There 7 p.m. shows got stuck in irritating entry pressive collection, one technically ad- er-and-tulle sweaters and fluorescent were several striking coats including a gridlock, a condition repeated in re- vanced with a powerful point of view. jerseys made of woven shoelaces. The cloud-jacquard cocoon one shown with a verse, only more so, on the way out. “We started with this idea of extreme leatherwork continued in interesting patterned sweater dress. A speckled fur In the lead-up to the show, the con- conditions and started thinking about coats and tunics with raw-cut hems. looked chicly whimsical. versation had been endless. How are you survival,” said Wang during a preview, Wang takes an almost obsessive ap- The show ended with an all-gold finale getting there? Water taxi? Car service? mentioning National Geographic, the proach to infusing his brand with a with the designer comfortably showered in Which bridge? Will any walking be in- great outdoors, competitive sports and sense of play. Accessories were designed a flurry of matching confetti and applause. volved? The maps, step-by-step driving the urban landscape. This Darwinian like thematic toys: utility handbags directions, VIP parking passes and Uber mentality translated to sporty silhou- with detachable compartments molded Alexander Wang: Alexander Wang’s fall was codes issued by Wang’s p.r. to soothe the ettes lavished with detail. Spare, seri- into shapes for a lighter, an iPhone, a a big production, a power play on and experience also fueled a commotion that ously tailored tunics layered with sharp Moleskine notebook and a flask. Two off the runway. First things first: Before kind of competed with the clothes. shirts provided a baseline look that boot styles — one like a shin guard, one getting to the collection, you had to get Given all of the outerborough hoopla, Wang built out through the show. He over-the-knee — were likened to shields. there — the Duggal Greenhouse in the Wang’s show had to be good; no one added puffy utility pockets and then And the ultimate special effect: the Lazy WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Diane von Derek Lam Prabal Gurung Furstenberg

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-news. GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

Susan finale of all-black outfits that The chalky pink and green necklines paid a visit there on a recent trip home with scarves and gorgeous, crafty turned colors — purple, green and blue were powerful accents on neutral color- to Nepal and was struck by the region’s Mongolian lamb coats worn over draped — thanks to heat-sensitive fabric. blocked crepe dresses, and the bright cuffs traditional culture and serenity, which chiffon skirts. Nepal provided more than Net-net, Wang’s survival chic collec- and collar of a black cashmere turtleneck he channeled into his fall collection. inspiration — some of the cashmeres tion was slightly upstaged by showing gave a graphic verve to a simple sweater- Perhaps due in part to familiarity with were produced there. in Brooklyn, but the move solidified his and-skirt pairing. The lineup was stocked the source material, Gurung displayed a There was balance to everything, position on the fashion food chain. On with strong, individual pieces such as the deeper level of comfort and confidence whether the fluidity and structure of Saturday night, at least, he turned the easy dresses, cut from panels of crepe with these clothes than he has in the tailored jackets and pants laced with industry into a bridge-and-tunnel crowd. satin that were connected by gold beads, past. The collection was one of his best. draped satin panels, or the drama and and the leathers — a mosaic patchwork Since launching his own line, Gurung softness of sultry cocktail dresses and Derek Lam: A striking sense of color skirt, for example — that underscored the has cited “femininity with a bite” as his gowns embellished with mosaic crystals fueled Derek Lam’s fall runway. From the collection’s attitude of sporty luxury. creative mantra, often yielding edgy, and ostrich feathers. opening look, a lavender bouclé jacket, aggressive takes on feminine allure. Done in warm colors, such as crimson forest green turtleneck and rich caramel Prabal Gurung: Mustang is a tiny, former This time, he infused his lineup with a and orange, the finale was romantic calf hair skirt, he used unusual pairings kingdom (now a republic) in the refreshing sense of ease beginning with and racy: Dresses came with precision of a modernist palette to invigorate his Himalayas that remained closed to beautiful melange knits — capes and cutouts that offered a glimpse of flesh minimally driven sportswear. foreign visitors until 1992. Prabal Gurung trapeze shapes — elegantly bundled and the bite that Gurung can’t resist. 12 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014

Victoria Public Public Thakoon Beckham School School

FALL 2014 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Victoria Beckham: Although version had a vintage sense of seem to be a stretch for Chow topped many of the looks with a and her design team decided Victoria Beckham said that cool — something that was new and Osborne. Dressed in lean homespun appeal. There were to celebrate the city’s diversity, fall was not an extension of and refreshing for the designer. tailoring and slouchy layers, charming moments and unique, making that point clear with the her boy-meets-girl spring the Public School girl is the strong items — the printed show’s production. It started theme, she still continued to Public School: Fresh from their cool, androgynous fraternal puffer outerwear especially with a video featuring real-life flirt with a boyish charm this Swarovski and CFDA/Vogue twin to its guy. The designers — but the lineup lacked New Yorkers — all young and season, and delightfully so. Fashion Fund wins for best broadened the palette for her, Panichgul’s usual polish. edgy and in varying ethnicities She opted for silhouettes that men’s wear designer, Public working in deep bordeaux on — waxing poetic about the city. were long and lean, but the School’s Dao-Yi Chow and an elegant cape, for example, Adam Lippes: Wearable and Then came the runway show, news was in the details. Smart Maxwell Osborne rode their and softened the lines with beautiful do not always go cast with a mix of models and tailored coats, like the white momentum into the women’s chunky knits. The fits were spot hand in hand but they worked locals including girl-about-town one that opened the show, arena for the first time this on — especially the hip-slung together splendidly in Adam Hannah Bronfman, nightlife were chicly held together by a season. They combined both shorts and pants — and the Lippes’ fall collection. It was hostess Melissa Burns and DJ gold chain at the waist. These collections into one runway total look was interesting, if full of luxurious classics: Chelsea Leyland. As for the looks were mannish in front show — also a first after several familiar. No longer an up-and- camel-hair blazer and trousers; clothes, they too were diverse, but their pleated backs gave seasons of presentation formats. coming designer brand, Public the perfect long navy cashmere from sporty to utilitarian to them a lovely soft counterpoint. The crux of the men’s lineup, School appears to be moving jacket, here detailed with brass feminine. Karan combined Beckham repeated the which looked more grown-up into the big leagues. buttons cascading at the cuff; functional with whimsical — adornments throughout on a and sophisticated than in the crisp, long striped cotton shirts. a quilted parka coat with a similar coatdress, a casual top past, was about “turning old Thakoon: The undercurrent From there he moved into long-hair shearling hood over and several shift dresses. men’s wear patterns on their of arty eclecticism that his own niche with oversize a glittery sequined skirt; an Much of the collection head,” said Chow. A clear consistently courses through swingy cashmere sweaters and elegant burgundy fur vest with a was clean in color — i.e., example: a tweed biker jacket Thakoon Panichgul’s a fireman’s coat, his version navy duffle coat and wrap skirt. black or white — which with leather sleeve inserts collections, whether in a for evening and shown over a It ended with flashes of the designer balanced with paired with wool tuxedo pants romantic, subversive or lace dress. hot pink worked on pieces unexpected touches. Intarsia with faille side inserts. intellectual direction, took Lippes said he was inspired including a lace jacket and on sweaters and a swirly With the line’s signature a quirky turn for fall. He by The Grateful Dead and its slipdress. The looks captured motif on a pleated black skirt street references still evident, proposed a magpie aesthetic, “iconic, all-American freedom; a New York sensibility, even if that peeked out from under a the designers also incorporated built out of offbeat prints and movement, fringe, tie-dye.” That’s it wasn’t exactly how true New coatdress added an abstract, strong tailored elements with proportions, that made for certainly a stretch, but a few hints Yorkers tend to dress. although familiar, pattern. modern three-piece suits in all- awkward pairings at times. of the band did play out: long The pants were rendered over tweed and a bonded navy Press notes said Patagonia silk fringe on a white shirt and a Band of Outsiders: Scott either slim or slouchy. The wool look with an elongated vest was a key reference, apparent chic gray flannel tunic, and a silk Sternberg had a busy Sunday, latter, especially when teamed and matching pants. The latter in the psychedelic floral prints shirtdress done in graphic black- showing his men’s Band of with flats, created a relaxed encapsulated the designers’ — fuchsia blooms set on a deep and-white tie-dye. Outsiders collection at 10 a.m. vibe. As for the red-and-black layering techniques and a slight purple background — and an and his women’s lineup just six tweed coat with large collar monastic sensibility. emphasis on artisanal knits. DKNY: Each season, Donna hours later. and lapels, it was inspired by Adapting their aesthetic Colorful, cropped ribbed capes Karan turns to DKNY’s The designer called his a Sixties original. Beckham’s to the feminine form did not and funnel-neck ribbed scarves hometown for cues. For fall, she men’s looks an “homage to WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 13

Adam DKNY Lippes

Moncler Grenoble: The great ski looks of a matically in all directions to electronically Moncler Grenoble collection often play mixed alpine music. Sound complicated? It a fabulous second fiddle to the knockout was actually hypnotic. presentation the company offers each year. And behind it all, the models in all-in-one This season was no exception, with men and suits, fur-trimmed jackets and knits — most women dressed in black and white ski looks, were close-fitting with stretch quilting, giving sunglasses and fur boots and hats. Models everything a sleek retro feel rather than the took their places in jumbo white-light pic- bulk of more ordinary ski and climbing looks. ture frames on a four-level grid— back lights For men, it was about the mix and match blinking on and off. of fabrics and their technology. An English Out in front were nine male singers of wool was thermal and drip-proof, sometimes the Pendulum Choir and its orchestra con- with a tweed effect, while wool and corduroy ductor, all dressed in down-filled quilted trousers had a nylon core for performance — morning suits, elevated and harnessed to a great use of high-tech fabrics, whether up in hydraulic platforms that oscillated dra- the mountains or back in the city.

Band of Lela Monique Outsiders Rose Lhuillier

newspapers,” channelling it worked to stimulating effect British newsboys of the Forties but other times came across and Fifties. Mostly casual flat. In the former camp, a sportswear, Sternberg injected navy striped felted mohair it with some youthful tailored coat with matching sweater pieces. Key items included a and gray flannel trousers felt half-tone dégradé oxford shirt contemporary and relevant. and pajama pants printed with Less convincing was the a polka dot pattern inspired by cocktail attire, which sometimes vintage classified ads. read a bit too Southern belle. For the women, Lee Miller, Man Ray and Schiaparelli Monique Lhuillier: Monique topped Sternberg’s list and Lhuillier has slowly been the results were delightful. growing her ready-to-wear There was a rabbit-fur collared business, and for fall she really plaid jacket and matching slim hit her stride. This collection pants, and floral dresses and was bold and romantic, some of rouched midiskirts that gave a it with a dark edge. nod to the Forties. For day, Lhuillier played He also had some fun with with structure in a feminine trompe l’oeil, putting mock way: A vinyl trenchcoat in a toggles on a PVC cape (and real pink tweed, a guipure lace ones on a shaggy fake-fur coat). blouse-and-pencil-skirt combo With these clothes, and a sleeveless long vest Sternberg again demonstrated over gaucho pants were all his knack for making the quirky polished and chic. The moodier look chic — a skill not easily moments came via skeletal mastered by other brands. prints and embroideries and somber colors (black, gray, Lela Rose: Lela Rose is a navy) that Lhuillier balanced foodie and for fall she was with a delicate touch. inspired by the legendary For evening, she showed her El Bulli restaurant in Spain, true potential with beautifully FOR MORE REVIEWS specifically how its chefs crafted gowns and cocktail AND IMAGES, SEE present the dishes. The dresses. Her LBDs came in result was a collection with an assortment of intricate WWD.com/ JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, more geometry and texture beadwork and embellishments, fashion-news. than usual and less of Rose’s while a dramatic high-low gown

signature whimsy. Sometimes was done in a pretty petal print. PHOTOS BY 14 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014

Suno Robert Geller Rebecca Taylor Lacoste

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Suno: Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis Robert Geller: The boxy suits that David A black and white “storm” print, over a kicky skirt. For men, Baptista have a knack for effortlessly working Bowie wore in his first movie, “The Man for example, was a clear nod to the worked in a mostly tonal palette with contrasting elements to chic appeal. Who Fell to Earth,” served as Robert artist’s tenuous chalk drawings on black ensembles in burgundy, blue and beige, For their fall Suno collection, they Geller’s main reference for his strong- backgrounds throughout the city. But including a double-breasted hooded mixed the severe with the charming, shouldered silhouettes. The first look, a Taylor’s mix of delicate fabrics and soft jacket with pants cut close to the body the minimal with the opulent. They constructed two-button coat worn with colors juxtaposed against tougher fare — functional looks that were in line said they looked to the images of carrot-shaped pants in multicolored spoke to the idea of fragility in an urban with many of the trends seen on the Scottish photographer Jeremy Sutton- stripes, set the tone of the overcoat- environment. A winning example was European men’s runways. Hibbert, who spent about two decades heavy lineup. A short color-blocked one a soft pink coat accented with a hardy documenting the nomadic Roma and a cozy collarless style in a beautiful chain detail on its collar, worn over a Baja East: Last season, Scott Studenberg people’s social transformations and shade of blue were standouts. crisp dress stamped with painterly rose and John Targon set off to create a acquisition of wealth. A haughty Throughout, Geller mostly stayed in gold blotches and a dainty chiffon slip “loose luxury” collection meant to blur inspiration for sure, but no matter — his comfort zone. He played with layering peeking out from underneath. the lines between men and women. the clothes were stellar. for a relaxed lounge feel, demonstrated For fall, the duo elaborated on that The show opened on an almost in a needle-punched blazer cinched at Lacoste: A visit to Chantaco, the golf notion with silk ikat tunics and beachy monastic note — a simple gray tunic the waist with a thin leather belt, worn course built in the late Twenties in cashmere sweaters in new cuts and dress with lace-up detail at the neckline over a striped turtleneck with a longer France’s Basque region by René Lacoste’s colors. A standout: the ivory-and-gray and sides — and then moved into the two-toned knit tank hanging out and father-in-law, was the starting point for tunic top worn with blue ikat Bermudas designers’ signature graphic patterns and paired with fluid roomy pants. Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s collection. He and a cashmere scarf in a tonal ikat with rich jacquards. The multicolored striped A few looks, such as a round- steered clear of his more experimental a pearl closure. motifs appeared on a range of pieces: a hem biker jacket and a button-front, proclivities and handled the golfing theme A leopard pony hair print group collarless coatdress worn with a pleated two-pocket jacket, were worked in with restraint — perhaps a bit too much. advanced their concept, worked on cool maxiskirt and a layered patchwork dress Neoprene. The stiff, more experimental The sporty looks were relaxed, sleeveless tunics, paneled drawstring over another pleated skirt. Both had a pieces offered a nice change of pace. polished and wearable, but, like the pants and a great anorak, which was folkloric feel. zippered jackets shown with slouchy also shown in a solid blue-gray with a The metallic range that closed the Rebecca Taylor: The work of Parisian street pants, could have used a little zest. The rabbit-fur collar. show was beautiful — especially the gold artist Philippe Baudelocque informed women’s portion had its moments of zip-neck top in a swirl pattern over a much of Rebecca Taylor’s latest collection girlish charm, e.g., the cool, oversize Helmut Lang: Rough Terrain was the title shimmering patchwork wrap-miniskirt. in both obvious and subtle ways. white sweater with an abstract motif of Michael and Nicole Colovos’ fall WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 15 WWD.COM

Lacoste FALL 2014 Baja East Helmut Lang N.Hoolywood NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Jill Stuart Hervé Léger by Max Azria

collection for Helmut Lang. Inspired by mood. Playing with volumes, satellite photos of Mars, the duo played she paired well-cut, ample wool with cool abstract prints and pebbly overcoats worn as maxi capes over textures that reflected the planet’s girly devoré velvet mini frocks and surface images. long, clean-lined knit dresses. Working in a neutral palette with Pretty midi column skirts were shots of red, the designers focused statement pieces and offered in on trans-seasonal pieces done in leather, as in a burgundy napa style lightweight fabrics — even thin angora paired with a simple sweater and a knits, minimalistic wool suiting and collarless leather-trimmed fur coat. fluffy fur sweaters had a lighter-than- Evening attire, like a romantic, short usual feel. white cotton eyelet dress with black flower embroideries and a sexy, draped N.Hoolywood: Taking a breather from his velvet wrap option, was less convincing. usual thematic lineup, N.Hoolywood’s Daisuke Obana focused on elegant men’s Hervé Léger by Max Azria: With each wear classics for fall. Among the fresh, season, Max and Lubov Azria wearable offerings were modern three- manage to find new ways to work piece suits with quilted vests, elongated their bandage dress. They continued belted cardigans layered under fitted their quest for fall, adding heat to blazers and the show stopper — a their already sexy numbers with double-breasted camel topcoat. cage-corset belts, car wash hems and The rich color palette included a navel-baring cutouts. Texture came range of browns, oatmeals and grays, with 3-D jacquards and pixelated which added an elegant touch to metal beading.

Obana’s newly modern dandy. As for other looks, there were RODIN BANICA, GIANNONI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER AND GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, cropped tops paired with pencil Jill Stuart: Jill Stuart imbued her skirts, slinky shrugs and tough-looking collection with a strong Seventies outerwear in leather and fur. PHOTOS BY 16 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 WWD.COM

FALL 2014 Delpozo: The colors of Italian artist The directional unisex lineup Delpozo Duilio Barnabé’s paintings and ranged from tonal logo-driven NEW YORK the retro-futuristic atmosphere of T-shirts and leather jackets to “Logan’s Run” merged to inspire sweatpants and topcoats. Influenced COLLECTIONS Josep Font’s beautiful collection for by underground dance-hall balls, Madrid-based Delpozo. Oliver worked primarily in leather The lineup touched different and suede. Deconstructed outerwear notes, from feminine and ethereal featured multiple zippers and to severe and powerful. The Whipstitch details. In an attempt at contrasting moods were unified tailoring, topcoats had cutout panels under a strong sensibility. — a new twist for the designer. His collection opened with He closed the show with a line overcoats, dresses and separates in of shirtless men in D-ring bondage sculpted A-line silhouettes. These denim pants, sporting wigs, dancing included a beige maxi cape with and flinging their hair back and forth. pointed shoulders and a brown zip jacket with a petal-like oversize Yigal Azrouël: There was a marked collar embroidered with a floral severity to Yigal Azrouël’s motif, worn over a flared miniskirt. sophisticated outing for fall. In a Then, the clothes became softer palette of black and rich wintery hues, with mohair sweaters and pretty his precise tailoring was evident, organza and chiffon styles, such as a as were his thoughtfully considered pleated evening shirtdress (complete details. A wool mohair topper and with train), embellished with crystals a beautiful coated bouclé dress, for and sequins in floral shapes. example, were both cut slim with contrast sleeves in knit and leather, Tibi: Amy Smilovic’s fall Tibi respectively, attached via industrial collection began with thoughts about zippers for a slight edge. Prints were the Amish and pastoral lifestyles. She graphic, while simple cropped pants questioned how they would translate looked luxurious in lambskin. into a modern urban environment As for the eveningwear, the and the answer was on her runway. finale series of gowns with capped Coats were first up and came sleeves or sheer backs balanced out fashioned in blue felted and fleece- the collection with a soft touch. wool combinations, as well as in fuzzy belted mohair in a rich red. Tracy Reese: “There’s more than one Knits were abundant, from the extra- way to wear a dress,” said the designer long fringed scarves to sweeping backstage postshow, wearing — what caftans that may as well have come else? A dress. So with the idea of with a walking stick to survey the juxtapositions and long winters on her land. Men’s wear fabrics were used mind, she set out to prove her point. for blazers and pants, the latter cut There were embroidered frocks slouchy and cropped to better show worn with glitter-heel pumps, part of a off the cool pointed brogues. A smart new shoe license with JVR; a graphic translation of Amish chic, this was a black-and-white herringbone dress very strong collection. paired with a cozy fringed sweater, and some lovely dress-and-cardi sets Hood By Air: In an androgynous in a winter landscape print. collection, Shayne Oliver sent out While there were a few head- a cast of real people on his fall scratchers — a pullover with runway — and at times, it was hard skinny silver denim cargo pants, for to tell the difference between the example — all in all, Reese’s girls girls and the boys. will be dressed to impress come fall.

Tibi

Hood Yigal Tracy By Air Azrouël Reese

Manolo Blahnik at his fall presentation. Manolo’s Sunday in New York “GET UP AND PUT ON YOUR having it at all. Mimicking the film’s Timberlands or L.L. Beans.” theme, a group of colorful suede and That was the advice dispensed leather booties with buttons up the from none other than stiletto king side and spat-covered boots Manolo Blahnik, when queried were modern versions of the about what women should wear to period’s footwear. navigate the treacherous winter Another depicted streets of New York. “Don’t Blahnik at work in his wear satin,” he added. atelier. Ottoman silk, Blahnik’s first New York like that found in “the Fashion Week presentation bedroom of Phillip II,” at the Paul Kasmin Gallery according to Blahnik, Sunday featured not only his became what the designer fall collection but a quartet dubbed his “favorite shoe,” of short films directed by which was a green and Michael Roberts, marking burgundy pump with a tasseled the second time the duo curtain across the top. has worked together. Paying further homage to Spanish The shoes and the films each culture was a pump with black pom- FOR MORE REVIEWS displayed Blahnik’s various influences pom trim, and an embellished number AND IMAGES, SEE and favorite themes. with red, hot pink and pale pink “Walk With Me: A Victorian Ghost tassels (above.) WWD.com/ Story” featured Amanda Harlech and Hopefully, Manolo’s New York set will fashion-news. AND STEPHEN SULLIVAN RAMIREZ JIMI CELESTE, GEORGE CHINSEE AND SANDY ANTONOV, PASHA Lucy Birley as sisters who become have a chance to shed their snow boots spinsters after losing love — or never and slip into a pair come September. PHOTOS BY

18 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 WWD.COM

CURVE PREVIEW Innovation, New Ideas Headline Curve Fairs

our buyers recognized the great combi- By KARYN MONGET nation of fashion, fit and value for their younger customers. While we always see INNERWEAR EXECUTIVES are feel- strong attendance at this show, we ex- ing bullish about the upcoming Curve pect our [specialty store] retail partners trade shows this month. will be excited to continue this winning The upbeat mood is due primar- streak. We also expect increased traffic ily to healthy orders left at the August as a result of our fast-growing business- session and by the prospect of new and es in Canada,” stated Vitale. innovative products and brands to be Vitale said new offerings by Wacoal showcased in both the Las Vegas fair, for fall will include a spacer bra with a which runs Feb. 17 to 18, and the Feb. jacquard pattern and embroideries on 23 to 25 New York show. the side wings that is “very feminine- A lot of action will be taking place looking,” and a new bra style in the at the New York edition, which has up- Amazing Assets group with ultrasoft bra graded its format with several new and pads and a back treatment to enhance expanded initiatives. comfort that features built-in power net Among the new ideas is a cocktail re- and no facing elastics. ception and runway show on Feb. 24 at Josie Natori, ceo of Natori Co., said, Skyline Studios in TriBeCa, where 30 top “We have an important strategy of ex- lingerie brands will be presented to more panding our specialty and boutique than 150 retailers and industry leaders. business for fall. “The location and ambience for the “We are actually tailoring a more fashion show is perfect, and there will focused assortment for boutiques, espe- be great fashion, food and cocktails,” cially zeroing in on our bestsellers, key said Pierre-Nicolas Hurstel, chief exec- items and key essential groups that are utive officer of CurvExpo. “We are also replenishable,” she continued. continuing to push our new accounts Va Bien’s A sheer bra Elizabeth Yee, Natori’s vice president program, which will hold [a draw- Matisse-inspired and undies from of sales, noted: “We will be catering to ing] for two round-trip flights to Paris, printed bustier. B. tempt’d. the specific needs of the specialty store American Express gift cards, and three customer at CurveNY. We are also excit- in-store trend consultations for retail- ed about our expanded lounge category ers who open an account with a new across all brands, which will enable us brand and leaves orders on-site at the Le Mystère’s to explore new points of distribution.” show. We had 250 entries in August.” cleavage-enhancing Natori will exhibit three of its Hurstel further noted that Curve will bra and bikini. brands: Josie, N Natori and Natori. be introducing a selection guide simi- For Puerto Rico-based Va Bien lar to a brochure launched at the Salon International, Greg Gimble, vice presi- International de la Lingerie in Paris, dent, said the company will be showing as well as a new personalized shopping more fashion product. service with Curve consultants dedicat- “We’ll be doing a preview of the next ed to booking appointments for retail- Atelier Va Bien collection that will fea- ers and brands. ture embroidered, laser-cut faux leath- “We are not just about selling booths er flowers. The textile is really special at the show. We have to be the ones who and it’s handmade and hand-cut in the create interaction with a staff dedi- U.S.,” said Gimble. “Each season will be cated to booking appointments at the special. This collection is inspired by show who will meet people in the show Fauvism and the early style of Matisse. aisles, and contact them beforehand by It’s a form of self-expression that phone and through our digital tools,” Matisse did, and it can be done through explained Hurstel. apparel. I think we can take the Va Bien He added there will also be a new brand to a new fashion level.” way of supplying visitors and attendees Dora Lau, president and ceo of Los with trend information. Angeles-based Curvy Couture, a plus- “At 5 p.m. daily at the [New York] size brand, said a group called Cool show, we will have a trend wall at the en- Smoothies will add newness to the trance of the show that will show a wrap- shapewear field. up of key trends and products pulled “Cool Smoothies uses a cooling yarn from exhibitors’ booths,” said Hurstel. made with minerals in a power net Meanwhile, exhibitors said expecta- that’s breathable, and it helps lower the tions were high for order-taking for im- body temperature by one to two degrees mediate as well as fall merchandise. on the wearer. Traditional shapewear Seth Morris, president and ceo of the makes women sweat — this is cool to Carole Hochman Design Group, said he the touch,” explained Lau. expects new product and fresh ideas to Natori’s iconic In other developments, Aubade, a drive business at the show. mix of fabrics. FOR MORE French intimates brand, will be re- “We always have high expectations IMAGES, SEE launched in the U.S. market for fall and of this trade show and we invest a lot holiday selling. of time and energy in our booths. The WWD.com Russell Klein, Aubade’s U.S. agent specialty store trade is very important and distributor at Easton International to us,” said Morris. “We think we will Inc., said: “I think the cornerstone of the be bringing new and innovative fab- Aubade brand is its fashion selections. rics and silhouettes to the table, such We are looking to be a strong fashion as stretch microfleece and plush robes resource in the U.S. market, and plan to across many brands, as well as new add new styles, fashion and colors to 80 yarns and weights that create a better percent of the line each season. hand-feel and comfort.” “Bras will retail from $120 to $160 and CHDG and its parent company, bottoms will be $40 to $75. Aubade bras Komar, will showcase Carole Hochman go up to a G cup, while other brands like Knits, Midnight Carole Hochman, Jane La Perla go up to a D cup,” he continued. & Bleecker, Stan Herman, OnGossamer, In the sleepwear realm, Maria Le Mystère and four innerwear li- Scotto, a former retailer and founder censees — Oscar de la Renta, Betsey of her namesake brand, will unveil new Johnson, Donna Karan and DKNY. fabrications. Bob Vitale, president of Wacoal USA, “I’ll be showing a new matelassé of said he is “very bullish” about the New cotton and Modal in a very pretty dia- York show. mond pattern in solid ivory, pink and “Our Wacoal business this past year gray. It’s beautiful for robes and sleep-

increased 8 percent with specialty stores ERICKSEN wear. I’ll also be showing several new due to very successful new style intro- laces, including a leaf-and-scallop pat- ductions and maximizing our strength in KYLE Cool Smoothies by tern, some of which are dyed-to-match contours and spacer bras. B. tempt’d was Curvy Couture. with silhouettes of cotton and Modal,”

off the charts with 34 percent growth as PHOTO BY said Scotto.

20 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 Rosetta Getty Launches Collection to give her fashion dream anoth- ultrafine fabrics to Japanese want their clothes to fit. I think By MARC KARIMZADEH er go. Her hectic lifestyle informs cotton twill. it was more the focus on deliver- many of her sartorial decisions. She partnered with brand ing something that was really in- LISTENING TO Rosetta Getty “Being from California and management and investment novative to that consumer which talk about fashion, it’s difficult not being very busy as a mother, firm The Dock. Its chief execu- drew us to the partnership.” to be captivated by the passion working — we do a lot of char- tive officer, Matt Walker, had the Walker declined to disclose she exudes for her chosen métier. ity work, my husband has two kind of expertise that appealed financial details of the partner- This fall, Getty will launch a careers — I need it to be easy,” to the designer, having served ship, but noted, “Our typical collection for women just like Getty said. “I need to wake up, as president and chief operat- relationship with brands for herself. To a wider audience, get the kids to school, get to work ing office for The Row for over The Dock is that we become Rosetta her name may stir different as- and show up for a lunch. I need to three years before launching a partner in the business. We Getty sociations — she is married to entertain, I need to go to a charity The Dock, which, last year, in- typically take an equity posi- Balthazar Getty, the actor, mu- sician and scion of the notable for skirts to $6,750 for gowns, al- West Coast family, which is now Fall looks from though some special furs can go largely known for its philan- Rosetta Getty. up to $16,000. thropy and commitment to the Walker didn’t disclose sales arts. Those who expect the Los projections for the line but sug- Angeles native to be another gested similar deals with other socialite looking to design as a talent could be in the works. pastime between lunches and “The Dock is constantly on benefit galas, though, will find the lookout for potential part- her to be anything but. nerships,” he said. “Our typi- Getty has been involved with cal approach is to get to know a fashion for years. At age 14, brand and get to know the peo- she started in the industry as ple involved in the team over an a model, living between New extended period of time before York, Paris and Milan for sever- we consider investment. We are al years. When she grew tired of considering partnering with the circuit, she enrolled at Otis three to four more bands over College of Art and Design, and the next couple of years.” launched the luxury children’s As for Getty, it’s the fulfillment dress label Rosetta Millington, of a lifelong dream, even if she which, at its peak, had whole- cracks a wry smile at the notion sale sales of $5 million and was of her husband’s full support. sold in over 350 specialty stores “We have been together so and retailers like Saks Fifth long,” she said. “This is what Avenue and Neiman Marcus. I do, this is what I think about After marrying Balthazar, all day. Half the time I make my “I licensed it, had a bunch of own clothes, which drives him kids and ended up doing a little GEORGE CHINSEE crazy…things that are in my bit of women’s wear,” she said, head only, and I run to the tailor. nonchalantly, referring to Riser It takes a huge amount of work Goodwyn, a small ready-to- PHOTOS BY to make your own clothes, not wear label mostly intended for event. My philosophy is basically vested in Creatures of the Wind. tion and would invest anywhere to mention expense, and he can friends and family. ‘have it be seamless, have it be Getty, Walker said, “brings a from $500,000 to up to $2 million get frustrated with how much “We decided to have another elegant but still be attractive and very fresh and innovative ap- into it. We become partners, and time and energy I spend making child and we didn’t have the feminine.’ I need to wear it from proach to West Coast luxury. In then also offer front- and back- one piece for one night. staff to support me not being morning to evening.” addition to her own sophisti- of-house services to help grow “He knows that this has al- full-time and me not being preg- The California climate also cated and impeccable style, she their brand.” ways been my dream,” she nant,” she said with a smile. encouraged her to go for more has a very deep understanding The collection opens in New added. “He knows this is what I Now that the youngest of her lightweight, seasonless fabrics of her customer, how her cus- York today. It is priced at sug- have to do. It comes down to one four children is six, Getty is ready that can easily be layered, from tomer lives and the way they gested retail range from $635 thing — this is my dream.”

lion people visiting per year,” need in terms of security.” said Doug Jenkins, director Jenkins said Mall of America Mall Security Put Into Spotlight of security. “There are things goes beyond the 40 hours of that are normal and things that training required in the state shoppers, before taking his own Q Larger malls that can afford aren’t. When something seems of Minnesota. “We blow that out By SHARON EDELSON life. A murder-suicide at The to are hiring police and open- out of place, we ask why it of the water and put [our staff- Mall in Columbia in Columbia, ing substations on their prop- doesn’t make sense.” ers] through hundreds of hours A DECADE AGO, those concerned Md., on Jan. 25 left three dead erties, Levenberg said. “Now The RAM unit, an under- of training,” he said. “When with mall center security worried and one person recovering from people are armed in the shop- cover, plain-clothes team, inter- they’re signed off, I have no about terrorism. Today, the threat a gunshot wound. Had scores of ping center who can respond views people who look unusual doubt that they can make it.” has shifted to random shooters. retail workers and shoppers not more quickly. Shooters, once or are doing things that are out Q Using simple common sense. After a failed terrorist plot stayed out of sight, the death toll confronted by someone who is of the ordinary. “Their sole pur- “Once an event occurs, what in 2004 to blow up a mall in could have been higher when the armed, typically stop shooting. pose is to look for suspicious you can do to mitigate and re- Columbus, Ohio, then-attorney shooter, who was carrying crude Malls understand that the com- people, vehicles and objects. duce the amount of injury is general John Ashcroft met with explosive devices, fired off six to ponent of armed police officers They’ve had hundreds of hours lower the gates of a store and retail executives to assure them nine shotgun rounds inside and is important in mitigating dan- of training and use a technique get all the people in the store that security was the govern- outside a Zumiez store at The gerous situations.” based on the FBI’s system of to a locked back room,” said ment’s top priority. The discus- Mall in Columbia. Q Video analytics, a system profiling,” said Jenkins. Levenberg. This is what hap- sion has now shifted to identi- “There’s not a significant that’s programmed to intelli- The four dogs in the K-9 unit pened at several stores during fying and preventing random amount that can be done to pre- gently pick out unusual behav- have changed breeds over the the Columbia shooting. attacks, disarming shooters and dict or intercept something be- ior. “There’s the potential to years. The mall started using Despite the string of recent knowing how to get customers fore [the perpetrator] gets to use technology more to make malamutes, then switched to shootings, mall violence is down and store employees to safety in the site of the mall,” said David mall management aware of floppy-eared varieties such as overall, according to Harvey W. the event of a threatening situ- Levenberg, president of Center some suspicious activity,” said spaniels and Labrador retriev- Kushner, chairman of the crimi- ation. The scenarios are no less Security Services, which works Levenberg. ers because they look softer nal justice department at Long frightening than a large-scale with shopping centers. “Most Q Training. Many malls are join- and friendlier. Jenkins said the Island University. The estimated terrorist attack. developers are involved in drills ing efforts and training with center does drills twice a month violent crime total in 2012 was A rash of shootings on mall and practices and adding securi- local police departments. Mall with all tenants, where stores 12.9 percent below the 2008 level, properties worldwide includes ty — off-duty or on-duty police of- of America in Bloomington, go into lockdown mode. The according to the Federal Bureau last year’s deadly siege of a mall ficers. Most incidents from start- Minn., is the largest shopping drills take less than 10 minutes of Investigation’s Uniform Crime in Nairobi, Kenya, in which 67 to-finish don’t last more than two center in the U.S. With 5 million and occur at the beginning and Reports. “These incidents have people were killed. In recent or three minutes. Most police de- square feet of space, it has a lot end of the day. “We want to ex- affected America’s psyche,” he months, there have been a slew of partments have protocol where of ground to cover when it comes pose different shifts,” he said. said. “It’s always been a money shootings at U.S. malls. A lawyer they’re not allowed to enter a to security. With a 150-person “We’ve had a couple of smaller issue and there’s always been was killed in a carjacking outside building until they have backup. security department, a Risk incidents with domestic distur- an issue about making malls The Mall at Short Hills in Short By the time the police get the call Assessment and Mitigation unit bances that turned into fights a friendly place where people Hills, N.J., in December and, in and enter, the situation is done.” and a K-9 unit, the giant mall and stores went into lockdown.” want to go. Malls should be safer November, a young man shot up Nonetheless, there are steps takes the well-being of its cus- “In most cases, mall own- and should have better trained Westfield Garden State Plaza, a malls and stores can take in tomers seriously. “ Yo u can look ers are reasonable,” Levenberg people.” Many malls are joining super-regional mall in Paramus, the event of a shooting. Among at the Mall of America as a big said. “They try to take an edu- efforts and training with local po- N.J., frightening but not injuring these are: neighborhood with over 40 mil- cated approach to what they lice departments, Kushner said. WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 21 WWD.COM

store windows and on its Web site. When in a magazine or putting us out there in her agent called her with the news a fashionable way?” MEMO PAD that she’d scored a one-year deal with Burke is hopeful she can leverage her Torrid, Burke said, “I kind of freaked. It work with Torrid to be put out there more. TIME INC.’S JOB CUTS: Time Inc. was just so exciting. A plus-size model “My dream was always to be a weather employees are beginning to feel the going under contract with a brand hasn’t girl. When I first started, I thought, ‘I’m company’s mandate to cut costs before happened for years, and it couldn’t be going to use this to be a weather girl,’” it spins off from parent company Time with a better company.” said Burke, who was discovered about Warner. Sports Illustrated and Fortune Liz Muñoz, senior vice president four years ago at a fashion event in suffered a slate of layoffs last week, of product development at Torrid, her hometown of Brisbane. “Of course, including writers and art department detailed that Burke’s confidence, her though, every model’s dream is to be editors. A spokeswoman from the enviable curves and the fact she’s not in Vogue, but, basically, if I make some Newspaper Guild said subject to ubiquitous, at least not yet, appealed women feel great, I’m doing my job.” negotiation of severance packages, SI to Torrid. “I personally had not seen — RACHEL BROWN has let go of 12 staffers and Fortune has her in a ton of things and that was part laid off one on the editorial side. of what we thought was interesting TALK ABOUT FASHION: Anyone who knows A source with knowledge of the and exciting. In the plus-size world, Kelly Cutrone or who has seen her dress situation confirmed that one writer there are not a ton of models and what down contestants on Tyra Banks’ “America’s from Fortune was dismissed, and added sometimes happens is you see the same Next Top Model,” can attest to the fact that of the 12 employees from SI, nine girl over and over. We wanted to find that she is no wallflower. Soon she will are writers, two work on layouts and someone newer and fresher that we have a new platform to air her opinions. one is a photo editor. could make our own,” she said. “The Kelly Cutrone Project,” a new This tally does not include non- Burke wears one-pieces, bikinis and talk show on the CW’s digital-only Guild members, a source said, who tankinis — her favorite is a red polka- network, CW Seed, will go live later this also heard rumors that managers from dot tankini — in Torrid’s catalogue year. Cutrone will also serve as executive SI and staff from its Web site had also of swimsuits. The catalogue stands in producer along with Liz Gateley, who held been given notice. marked contrast to Sports Illustrated’s that same title when she recruited the An SI spokesman did not return swimsuit issue that will release its People’s Revolution publicist to appear requests for comment and a Georgina Burke for Torrid. 50th edition this month. “It’s not your on “The Hills.” This time around, pop representative from Time Inc. declined typical catalogue,” said Burke. “Sixty- culture, fashion, food and sex will be to confirm the number of layoffs. As TORRID FACE: Georgina Burke has been eight percent of women in America are among her talking points. “It will be reported, Time Inc. is expected to cut named the first face of Torrid, the 236- over size 12. Why can’t we be put in the about how to do a fashion show, the five numerous jobs over the next few weeks, unit retailer serving shoppers sizes 12 to magazine as well? Who’s to say we aren’t things every fashionista needs, how to with a spokeswoman confirming the cuts 28. The 23-year-old Australian plus-size good enough to be in there? What’s tell your parents you are coming out, why will be fewer than 500 people. model will make her debut in images wrong with putting me as the face of a vibrators are great and everything else.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD within Torrid’s swimsuit catalogue, in its company or using us [plus-size women] — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Vince Celebrates IPO at the Boom Boom Room attended were Alyssa Milano, stock market price every day. internationally in 43 countries. By LISA LOCKWOOD Mariska Hargitay, Daisy Fuentes My focus is on the long term “There’s opportunity to double and DJ Chelsea Leyland. — building the brand. I’m very the [international] business over EXECUTIVES FROM Saks Fifth The company, which went pub- focused on the product,” said the next few years,” she said. Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Hudson’s lic Nov. 22, is trading 15 percent Granoff. She said Vince is mov- Vince got kudos from its Bay, Barneys New York, Scoop above the IPO price, said Marc ing ahead on several fronts: wholesale accounts, where the and Intermix headed downtown Leder, co-chief executive officer of international expansion, new vendor is a top-selling contem- Thursday night to the Boom Sun Capital Partners Inc., who co- product categories, a newly de- porary resource. Boom Room and Le Bain at the hosted the party with Jill Granoff, signed Web site and greater pen- “Vince is a great partner,” Standard Hotel to celebrate ceo of Vince. On the day of the etration in wholesale accounts. said Tony Spring, the new chair- Vince’s initial public offering. party, the stock closed at $23.18. Vince plans to open seven man and ceo of Bloomingdale’s. Among the celebrities who “I really don’t look at the to eight freestanding stores in Jennifer Davis, divisional the U.S. and at least another merchandise manager of con- 20 shop-in-shops globally this temporary sportswear at Jennifer de Winter Jill Granoff, Marc Leder and year, said Granoff. The company Bloomingdale’s, added, “The and Liz Rodbell Libby and Sam Edelman. recently opened shops-in-shop line is doing really great. We love in Harrods, Holt Renfrew and it going forward, and there’s a lot Hankyu in Osaka. It also opened of opportunity ahead.” a 1,615-square-foot Tokyo store, Jennifer de Winter, executive in the Omotesando district. The vice president and chief merchan- company plans to relaunch its dising officer at Saks, said, “Vince Web site this month and is in- is an incredible business for us, a creasing its business with its very strong brand and very syner- wholesale partners. gistic with Saks. It’s a big opportu- Another opportunity for the nity for both our companies and brand is expanding product appeals to a wide customer.” She categories such as dresses and said Saks carries the women’s and outerwear. Vince is rolling out men’s sportswear and shoes “and

footwear and will launch kids in hopes to carry handbags.” the fall at select retail doors and Liz Rodbell, president of its wholesale accounts. Vince Hudson’s Bay Co. and Lord is also developing a handbag & Taylor, added, “We love the SCOTT RUDD line in-house that will launch in brand. It’s amazing, and we carry 2015. Granoff said 8 percent of it in Hudson’s Bay. We’re excited Frank Doroff and Tony Spring

PHOTOS BY the business is currently done about the footwear.” 22 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 Laura Love and Can’t Stop, Atlanta de Cadenet Won’t Stop SATURDAY OF New York Wasson is 32, a Texas native. Fashion Week began with a She is spindly and loopy and streaker at Prabal Gurung and tends to speak in bumper sticker ended with black cars bumper metaphors, but she can unnerve to bumper in an epic traffic jam with smart, out-of-nowhere in middle-of-nowhere Brooklyn observations that make clear after Alexander Wang. she’s not your average Pollyanna All the drama threatened model. The party featured some to overshadow Prabal Gurung’s unusual set pieces — at least morning showing, but at his by the standards of New York party late Saturday in the Fashion Week. The clothes hung West Village the designer had on a rotating rack, as if at a dry already turned the streaker cleaners, and were draped on eye into a party gag. Up & Down, headless rubber mannequins the new club, was brimming that recalled condoms. The with people in matching plastic bartenders pumped beer crowns, a nod to Vitalii Sediuk, from a keg. Outside the hotel the man who crashed Gurung’s sat a Porta-Potty designed runway show earlier. by the label’s designer, Greg Brendan Fallis and “I called all of my friends Chait. “He understands that Hannah Bronfman at and I asked them to buy crowns. authenticity is the new currency the Prabal Gurung We bought 150” at Party City, of life,” Wasson said of Chait. after party. Gurung said. “Of course you Authenticity is big with the have to make fun of it. Yo u can’t model, and Statesman’s chill take it seriously.” California vibe suited her own There didn’t seem to be any free-associative temperament. party crashers in the crowd “He’s giving us what we don’t around him, which included often get to have in New York Atlanta de Cadenet, Ireland Baldwin City, which is an experience,” and Gigi Hadid, the recent cover she continued. So, does that face of Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion mean every fashion week party Book. At its halfway mark, needs a keg? “Authenticity is fashion week was taking its toll the new currency of life,” she on newbie Hadid, who had mixed repeated, as if what she was emotions about the marathon. saying was self-evident. “A little “Energywise, I feel really good,” bit of beer, some really good she said, but added, “I’m a little tequila, no fuss.” sick from lack of rest.” How about those Gurung pointed to the felt prophylacticlike mannequins? Ireland Baldwin hat on his head that had been “It’s also that plastic Prabal Gurung and Gigi Hadid worn earlier by the runway movement from the Sixties,” she PRUTTING/BFANYC.COM

said, suddenly rendering the the shoulder-to-shoulder crowd X DAVID Garrett Neff suggestion of a resemblance a was heavy with editors and A mannequin little dopey. “If you look at some publishers hungry for some of at The Elder of the art world of the Sixties that Berluti business. Cruz, who Statesman many people were obsessed came with fiancée Elaina Watley presentation. with this plasticized art form, so and beamed he was “dressed it’s quite inspiring actually.” in Berluti head to toe,” was She started to flip through not put off by the cost of the the pictures on her phone for bespoke suits, which can retail something to prove her point, an for about $10,000. Naturally, as image of an exhibit at the once a select customer, he must be famous Ferus Gallery, which one of the privileged few who operated out of California from get a discount? ALL OTHERS BY GRASSI/PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM; the late Fifties until the late “I haven’t put it to the J Sixties. But she stopped when test yet, but I would hope she came across her own picture so,” he said. FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE of the Porta-Potty. At Stephan Weiss Ballou said. “That was “This is Greg,” she said Studio further my reaction initially.” WWD.com/eye. excitedly. “Greg actually downtown, a party Neff, who’s only

Natalia Vodianova designed the f--king Porta Potty for Details walking the Nautica GURUNG BY FALK; EVAN and Antoine Arnault outside. Yeah! Hello! Helloooo!” magazine’s show this New York Someone rushing to get past March cover, season, was relieved Wasson accidentally knocked which to be scaling crasher. “This is the original,” down a mannequin as it was features back his runway he said as he performed a rotating by. She picked it up and the top 10 appearances. “If royal wave. “Let me have the hung it right back. working male you’re walking a original, let them all enjoy.” t
t
t models, was lot of shows, and Even at midnight the crowd’s On Thursday, the opening of swarming you’re young, it’s BY AMBER DE VOS; VODIANOVA energy and interest showed no Berluti’s new Madison Avenue with a very exciting and new. signs of flagging. How long did flagship was mobbed by well- different But once you’ve Gurung plan to stay out? “Who wishers who came to check out crowd — been doing it for knows,” he said. its signature Grande Mesure seemingly 10-foot- a while, you don’t t
t
t salon and to pay their respects tall Adonises with really want to spend The night before, Erin Wasson, to Antoine Arnault, chief executive big foreheads, the time going to the fashion party MVP, was at officer and eldest son of Bernard each hoping to castings and fittings a presentation-cum-cocktail Arnault, chairman and ceo of reach the career and the callbacks party at the Hotel Particulier in LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis heights of those because the outfit Lower Manhattan for The Elder Vuitton. Tagging along with elders who made wasn’t right, then Statesman. “I’m a grown-ass the younger Arnault was his the cover, like you show up and you woman,” she said in response very pregnant girlfriend, Natalia Tyson Ballou, 37, do one show but you have STEVE EICHNER; WASSON AND MANNEQUIN BY to a description of her walk Vodianova. New York Giants wide Garrett Neff, to be there four or five during Alexander Wang’s show last receiver Victor Cruz and actor 29, and Sean hours in hair and makeup season as sexy and confident. Joshua Jackson, best known for O’Pry, 24, who and then the actual show,” She said it like it was a given, his role in the Nineties show were each in he said, sounding like a like there was no other way Tyson Ballou and “Dawson’s Creek,” were the attendance. war-weary veteran. “ Yo u for a woman to strut, down the Alex Lundqvist two most prominent men in “Why can’t Erin sit around a lot.” — ERIK MAZA street or down a runway. attendance, while the rest of it just be me?” Wasson PHOTOS BY NEFF AND BALLOU WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2014 23 Jackie Fraser-Swan WWD.COM and her daughters. obtained from vendors and merchandise under the Saks Fifth Avenue Off 5th label. FASHION SCOOPS — DAVID MOIN WHERE’S WALDO: Emerson designer Jackie DIANE’S DAY: “She Karan International, Fraser-Swan made her Friday night walk- is pop culture,” called DKNY’s business off a family affair, taking her four young Tommy Hilfiger said in “very strong.” Weber said IANNACCONE daughters out for a quick lap around referring to Diane von the handbag business the runway. The family coat of arms is Furstenberg at her show has been “accelerating treasured by the designer whose great- Sunday afternoon dramatically” and the THOMAS great- great-grandfather was the famed BY by way of explaining activewear and footwear essayist and poet Ralph Waldo Emerson.

her longevity. The segments are starting to PHOTO “My favorite quote of his is, ‘Break collection she showed do very well. the monotony. Do something strange and coincided with the — LISA LOCKWOOD had warmer days on her mind. “Tomorrow extravagant.’ That’s what I’m all about,” 40th anniversary of I am getting on a flight bright and early to the designer said. the wrap dress and PRODUCTION VALUES: sunny California so I can go home and hug Showing off her spiked Chanel black the front row was Etienne Russo, the my kids,” she said. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG gloves, Fraser-Swan said she wants her fall a testament to the production wizard, collection to encourage empowerment: designer’s appeal, then took over Hammerstein SOSA PROMOTED: Moving fast to fill a “I don’t want people to worry about how and now. Coming to Ballroom in Midtown key vacancy, Saks Fifth Avenue Off 5th you’re supposed to be or what you’re toast von Furstenberg Manhattan Saturday night promoted Kristen Sosa to senior supposed to be. You know cliques, besides Hilfiger were STEVE EICHNER to stage another one of vice president and general FOR MORE just stay away from that. People her partner Barry Diller, his elaborate spectacles, merchandise manager, SCOOPS, SEE should be themselves.” Fran Lebowitz, actress Paris and Nicky Hilton this time the Moncler becoming the off-pricer’s Her own style is true to that. AnnaSophia Robb (a late PHOTO BY Grenoble collection. new top merchant. “Kristen WWD.com. Confessing to a serious Chanel late arrival), Nicky and Paris Hilton, Atlanta Whatever Russo had in store was is a seasoned merchant obsession, the designer showed de Cadenet and even a United Nations at first obscured by curtains, as if a who understands the Saks off a sizable Coco Chanel tattoo U.S. Ambassador, Samantha Power, who is theatrical production or an opera Off 5th customer from an on her left arm, which took three more accustomed to war zones and was were about to begin instead of a rock omnichannel perspective,” said Jonathan sittings and about 10 hours in the chair. As at her first ever fashion show. “Can you concert, Hammerstein’s speciality. The Greller, president of outlets at Hudson’s Bay her tattoo artist Luke Wessman (more widely tell?” she said. “My day job is a little theater can hold about 3,500 people, Co. overseeing the Saks Off 5th, Lord & known from the reality show “NY Ink”) depressing at times, inspiring some of but this time was mainly filled on Taylor and Hudson’s Bay outlet operations. walked by backstage after the show, Fraser- the time and I thought this would be a the main floor. Among those waiting Sosa, formerly vice president for Saks Swan said she definitely had more designs nice reminder of life.” were Jessica Hart, Waris Ahluwalia, Olivia Fifth Avenue Off 5th Direct, succeeds in mind. “I plan on having full sleeves,” she Power met the designer recently Palermo, Kate Foley, Zani Gugelmann, Mike Wolkoff, who left in December to join said, pointing to other tattoos on her arms. through Bornfree, an initiative that Nicole Mellon and a fleet of editors and Century 21, another off-pricer. “I have my daughters’ names here, camellia works on lowering mother-to-baby HIV retailers growing increasingly nervous Saks Off 5th sells clearance product flowers everywhere, some measuring tape transmissions. “This is her day job, but that the show’s late start time would from Saks Fifth Avenue, product directly and a mannequin back here.” — R.F. what she’s doing to help people with delay them for the Alexander Wang HIV or to prevent people from getting show in far-away Brooklyn. Despite HIV around the world is mind-blowing,” an advisory from Moncler to “please the ambassador said. — ERIK MAZA arrive promptly at 7 p.m.,” the show didn’t start until a half-hour later. PUPPY LOVE: Caitlin FitzGerald decided to Spike Lee has never been to one of keep her fashion week schedule light Moncler’s famously flashy productions this season and for good reason. “I just but is a fan of the brand. adopted a puppy last week so I’m going “They’re stylish and they keep me to try to stay home and be a good mom,” warm in freezing-ass New York City,” For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. she laughed sitting between Taylor Schilling he said, his trademark horn-rimmed and Nora Zehetner In the front row of the glasses in place. It was the only runway Thakoon show on Sunday afternoon. show he planned on seeing this week. The actress is taking mothering “This is fashion week? I didn’t her new addition — a Norfolk terrier know,” he said. — E.M. named Charlie — Roses & Maxway Stores very seriously. “It STAR TREK: “This is my feels like being a Karen Elson first,” Karen Elson said,  #! # !#!## !#  new parent, it really plunked down in the front  # """"""" ###
## does. No sleeping, row of the Alexander       
 so much worrying Wang show on Saturday that I’m going to night. Editors, retailers traumatize him. I and socials trickled in, NEW VENDOR thought it would many flustered from    
    just be euphoria having just ditched their RESIDENCE INN and cuteness and black cars and jogging Times Square Room •1033 Avenue of the Americas, New York, 212.768.0007 cuddling and instead the rest of the way to Call Anita Thomasson for appointment • 252.430.2051 it’s like, ‘Why isn’t the venue, fearing the he going to the insufferable traffic jam bathroom? Is he going outside would make to the bathroom? them miss the show. “I Is he chewing on get to watch a bunch of Spaces something?’” STEVE EICHNER shows but I walk in just a — TAYLOR HARRIS couple,” Elson continued. COMMERCIAL

PHOTO BY “I mean, I’m 35 after all.” REAL ESTATE LUXURY HANGERS Jack Vartanian, leading contemporary ORA TIME: It was a On the other side of The most comprehensive collection of fine jewelry designer is offering luxury women’s and men’s hangers excitng opportunities in retail manage- mad crush of photographers as Rita Ora the room, Zoë Kravitz took her seat. Kanye available in the world, 4 different ment and office administration for its sizes. www.hangerproject.com Madison Av. boutique. Ideal candida- was escorted to her front-row seat at West, who was on the seating chart, was (800) 495-3201 tes must have 3 to 5 years experience in luxury fashion or jewelry sales, DKNY’s show Sunday afternoon. Ora, a no show. Further down the row, actor PATTERNS, SAMPLES, The showroom has 1,288.00 sq.feet. great interpersonal skills and a databa- who walked the runway last season Sam Worthington — an early arrival — sat PRODUCTIONS se of personal clients. Spoken Portu- Location: Full service shop to the trade. for DKNY, was a spectator this time comfortably, attentive to girlfriend Lara 1407 Broadway Suite 3605 guese is a plus. Pls send resume and 3 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 recent industry references to round. The British singer-songwriter- Bingle. “Getting here? It was quite easy. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 212-354-5690 ex#2226 [email protected] actress, who will play the role of Mia We’re in TriBeCa so it was a hop, skip [email protected] MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED in the movie “Fifty Shades of Grey,” and a jump to Brooklyn,” the actor said. Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ is the face of an upcoming DKNY Though he’d only met Wang recently stores. If you sell to fashion accessory fragrance, appears in DKNY’s spring after they sat next to each other on a Martini Factory, LLC buyers, email: [email protected]. Design & Manufacturing Agency ready-to-wear campaign, and is the face plane, Worthington has become quite Womens / Mens Contemporary Highest quality sampling thru Low of Material Girl. After the show, Ora a fan. “He’s at the forefront, man,” the minimum production tweeted, “DKNY wore me out. Straight actor said. “I’m gonna support anyone www.themartinifactory.com to bed. I can’t move. #amazingshow.” who’s at the forefront.” — T.H. AND E.M. Ora was joined in the front row by Victoria Justice, Zoey Deutch of “Vampire AFTER THE SHOW: Anna Kendrick, Cat Deely, Academy” and Zandaya (of Disney’s Jamie Chung, Emmy Rossum, Louise Roe “Shake It Up!” and “Dancing With the and Julie Henderson ducked backstage Stars” fame). Saturday night to greet Monique Lhuillier Justice, who was dressed head- after her show. to-toe in DKNY, recently shot a pilot Gearing up for the next season of for MTV called “Eye Candy,” which is “Plain Jane” and only in New York for a suspenseful drama, and filmed an six shows, Roe spotted a few trends independent film called “Naomi and watching the audience. “We’re all Ely’s No Kiss List.” pretending it’s not snowing outside — (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Meantime, Mark Weber, chairman lots of open-toe shoes and high heels, and chief executive officer of Donna impractical but love it.” Lhuillier also

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