Reframing Fashion & Retail
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DAILY EDITION OCTOBER 27, 2016 1 Kevin Plank Ralph Lauren Greg Kelly Chuck Todd WWD CEO SUMMIT Alexei Agratchev Reframing Fashion & Retail The second day of the WWD CEO Summit at the Pierre Hotel in New York on Wednesday addressed topics from Greg Petro the U.S. presidential election to the investing climate, the activewear market to digital influencers. On Tuesday night, the hotel’s ballroom was packed as industry executives and designers attended the first WWD Honors event, including the inaugural John B. Fairchild Honor, given to Ralph Lauren. For more, see pages 6 to 14. Sid Gupta Joseph Altuzarra, Norma Kamali and Marc Jacobs. Scott Dahnke Riccardo Pozzoli Daniel Lalonde Julie Wainwright Photographs by Patrick MacLeod Patrick by Photographs Best in class style, trends and looks from the front row of Fashion Week WOMEN’S COLLECTIONS An Advertising Opportunity Issue: November 9 Ad Close: October 28 Materials: October 31 THE POWER OF CONTENT FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR [email protected] OCTOBER 27, 2016 3 BUSINESS Rykiel line and it is important to accel- erate and amplify that phenomenon by widening the offer for Sonia Rykiel and Sonia Rykiel Shutters repositioning the line at a more accessi- TOP 5 ble price point,” Langon said. The house started lowering prices on certain key categories, such as knitwear, TRENDING Sonia by Sonia Rykiel for fall 2016 and the strategy was proving ON WWD.COM successful, he noted. ● The brand will reposition economic situation remains very compli- The executive emphasized that de its main line with cated and 2016 is also difficult. I hope to Libran had the full support of manage- the introduction of end the year with another sales increase,” ment and had demonstrated her affinity he said, adding that sales in its retail net- with the brand with her vibrant homage lower price points. work were down 1 percent year-to-date. to its founder during her latest catwalk Rykiel was one of the last remaining show in October, a little more than a BY JOELLE DIDERICH independent French fashion brands when month after Rykiel died following a PARIS — Sonia Rykiel is shuttering its the founding family in 2012 sold an 80 lengthy battle with Parkinson’s disease. Sonia by Sonia Rykiel diffusion line and percent stake to Fung Brands, an invest- Sonia Rykiel is also rethinking the laying off a quarter of its staff as it moves ment company backed by Hong Kong model for its children’s line, currently to reposition its main Sonia Rykiel line. billionaires Victor and William Fung. Now produced in-house, which previously The company plans to introduce lower known as First Heritage Brands, it is also relied on Russia for more than a quarter prices points to meet the demands of an the holding firm for Belgian leather goods of its wholesale revenues. Langon is increasingly competitive market. firm Delvaux and French shoe brand looking for partners to manufacture and Eric Langon, chief executive officer of Robert Clergerie. distribute the collection and hopes to Sonia Rykiel, said the firm was hit hard Langon said Sonia Rykiel had registered have a new structure in place by 2018. by the successive impact of the Russian losses continuously since 2013 and the In parallel, the company is in talks with financial crisis, the slowdown in con- new strategy was designed to return it to its longtime homewares partner Omilis sumer spending in Asia and the impact of profitability by 2019. “Today it is essential on the renewal of its license, following terrorist attacks on tourism to Paris and for the house to rethink and revitalize the company’s acquisition last year by the rest of Europe. itself,” he said. holding firm Soleanne. This has put the brakes on the house’s The brand will lay off 79 out of 330 Langon said Sonia Rykiel was keen to recovery following the arrival of Julie workers in departments including the develop its online presence. It is set to Fashion's de Libran, formerly one of Marc Jacobs’ design studio, back office and distri- expand e-commerce, currently available chief design deputies at Louis Vuitton, as bution. Workers’ representatives were in the U.S. and Europe, to Australia soon. Busiest artistic director in 2014. informed of the restructuring on Oct. 19 The executive is also toying with the idea Sonia Rykiel’s turnover nonetheless and the company has pledged to pro- of “see-now-buy-now,” though he noted Photographers returned to growth last year for the first vide assistance and training to help staff that its relative small scale was a hurdle. ● These photographers time since 2008, with revenues up 3 per- affected by the cuts. “This context of uncertainty is cent year-on-year, Langon said, without Sonia by Sonia Rykiel has four stand- incompatible with a business model that are some of the industry’s providing additional figures. alone stores and four corners in depart- requires such a long lead time, and I am legends — and continue to rank “This growth in revenues is not suf- ment stores, the majority of which will be trying to find solutions with my partners ficient today to guarantee sustainable shuttered by the end of 2017. — including wholesale customers — that among the busiest. growth for the house and its activities in “‘Sonia by’ is not delivering the will help that wholesale customer move the years to come,” he told WWD in an expected returns. We believe we are forward with us, which means finding ● Study: Ivanka Trump exclusive interview. “Unfortunately, the capturing a new clientele with the Sonia new ways to share risk,” he said. Brand Avoids Boycott By Consumers ● Jack O’Connell to Play BUSINESS Lee Alexander McQueen In Film OTB Buys Paula Cademartori Brand ● Sonia Rykiel to Shutter Secondary Line, Lay Off ● The Italian-Brazilian designer A Quarter of Staff is known for her colorful collections of bags, ● Diane von Furstenburg shoes and accessories Talks Trump’s Mediocrity, that are made in Italy. Buy-Now Fashion and the odd by Mark Mann odd by Power of Intention T BY LUISA ZARGANI van Falk; Falk; van E MILAN — OTB has a new brand joining its stable: Milanese accessories company Paula Cademartori. The Italian-Brazilian designer is known for her colorful collec- NEWSMAKERS tions of bags, shoes and accessories that are made in Italy, and have been spotted This Week’s Most on celebrities including Beyoncé, Lady Talked About Names Gaga and Jessica Alba. Financial terms were not disclosed. In Our Industry “Paula’s energy and positivity are con- tagious, and her products are high-quality and distinctive,” said OTB founder and president Renzo Rosso, highlighting the X/Shutterstock; Altuzarra by Justice Apple; Kamali by by Apple; Kamali Justice by Altuzarra X/Shutterstock; RE potential of the brand. “Within our group, she will continue to freely create innova- FA.com/ B tive, ‘brave’ products, also thanks to the structural support we will provide her, Marc Jacobs Joseph Altuzarra and together we will create a new success story based on a unique identity and borderless creativity.” “This is an incredible opportunity of growth and development for my brand. A Paula Cademartori bag. For me Renzo is not only a great entre- preneur but also an inspiring figure,” said are evaluating some opportunities,” she 2015 with net profits down 36 percent to Cademartori. said, adding that no contract had been 3.5 million euros, or $3.8 million, from Two weeks ago, an OTB spokeswoman signed yet. 5.5 million euros, or $7.3 million, in 2014. Norma Kamali Chuck Todd told WWD that the brand was on the OTB controls the Diesel, Maison Mar- Revenues rose 1.9 percent to 1.59 billion radar of the Italian group. “We confirm giela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf brands, as euros, or $1.76 billion, compared with that as part of our regular scouting activ- well as manufacturing arms Staff Interna- 1.56 billion euros, or $2 billion, in the Photographers photograph by Virginie Khateeb; Jacobs by by Jacobs Khateeb; Virginie by photograph Photographers ity of interesting brands for the group, we tional and Brave Kid. The group closed previous year. OCTOBER 27, 2016 4 BEAUTY Sephora France Launches Brands Online ● Eugene Perma, BaByliss, The Percy & Reed hair line is on the Bronz’Express and Color Me docket, too. Its directors laud Sephora’s Internet strategy. “Who doesn’t shop are among such labels now online now? And if you have the added sold exclusively on the site. bonus of education, how-to’s and imagery that we’ve been working on, it’s incredi- BY JENNIFER WEIL ble,” said Adam Reed, a founding partner and director of the label. PARIS — Sephora France is spinning its While Sephora France’s exclusive web strategy in a new direction, now online program today registers just a small launching some beauty brands exclusively percentage of sephora.fr’s overall sales, on sephora.fr that haven’t been introduced it is a growing share and — importantly — in its stores countrywide. allows the retailer to test how brands are The reason for the approach is twofold, received and bolsters its visibility on social according to Stephane Delva, marketing networks, since those products address a director for Sephora Europe and Middle savvy consumer. “When they are success- East. “There is a growing appetite from ful, we can launch them after in brick-and- our consumers, who are more and more mortar stores,” Delva said. connected through their smartphones Sephora France is A case in point is the Dafni brush that and have an increasing view on what’s hot launching beauty brands straightens tresses, which was debuted on outside of France.