NEW YORK PARTY,

COLLECTIONS PARTY TOMMY, CAROLINA, THAKOON, ALL AROUND THE BASTIAN, THE ROW... FASHION WEEK NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FETES. PAGE 21 ROLLS ON. PAGES 6 TO 10

GRANDSON STEPS UP Liliane Bettencourt Exits L’Oréal Board

By JENNIFER WEIL

PARIS — Liliane Bettencourt has passed the L’Oréal WWD torch to the next generation. In reporting an 8.9 percent increase in net prof- its for 2011, the world’s largest beauty company said TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Monday that the 89-year-old Bettencourt would step down from the board and her seat would be taken by her 25-year-old grandson, Jean-Victor Meyers. The move will be submitted for approval at the next annu- al general meeting of shareholders. The Bettencourt family is the largest single shareholder in L’Oréal, with a 31 percent stake. Twenty-five-year-old Meyers is a son of Bettencourt’s daughter, Françoise Bettencourt Meyers, and also Bettencourt’s legal guardian. He studied economics and management in France and the U.S. Over the past two years, Jean-Victor Meyers spent some months at L’Oréal. He’s also been a mem- ber of the supervisory board of the Bettencourt fam- ily’s holding company, Téthys, since January 2011. Jean-Victor Meyers joining L’Oréal’s board marks another chapter in what has been a long-running saga of the Bettencourts involving vast wealth, family feuds, lawsuits and political scandal. The announce- ment about her leaving the board followed numer- ous lawsuits concerning Bettencourt’s mental acuity. Most recently, on Jan. 18, a French court turned down Bettencourt’s request to have her guardianship status changed to “reinforced guardianship,” which is less restrictive. She had appealed a decision made in mid- October by the guardianship judge of Courbevoie, France, who had placed her under the protection of Meyers. At the time, Bettencourt’s holdings were put under his guardianship, plus that of her daughter and other grandson, Nicolas Meyers. That legal decision had been long in the making, coming after numerous requests for guardianship protection made by Bettencourt Meyers during the Bettencourt affair, which began in December 2007 SEE PAGE 19 Bloomberg’s Action Plan Dapper By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG WITH FASHION WEEK in full swing uptown and downtown, Diane von Furstenberg, Mayor Michael Bloomberg and U.S. Rep. Carolyn Maloney (D., N.Y.) met in the heart of the Garment Center Monday morn- Donna ing to spell out the industry’s impact on New York City and new initiatives geared to fostering future generations of designers. The mayor was quick to point out that New York’s Focusing on tailoring galore, Donna Karan biannual runway shows is expected to generate a incorporated pinstripes, brazen shoulders and record-breaking $865 million in economic develop- her signature asymmetric maneuvers into her fall ment for the city this year. In addition, New York’s 500 fashion shows attract about 232,000 visitors each collection. It was chic, urban and recalled the year. City officials are banking on employment in New high-glam attitude that put Karan on the map in York’s retail market, the largest in the U.S., to climb the first place. For more from New York Fashion 17 percent by 2025. Part pep rally, part state-of-the-industry address, Week, see pages 6 to 10. Monday’s gathering zeroed in on five tactics to help build the industry through his administration’s Fashion NYC 2020 program: Q Introducing a free mini M.B.A.-type program for 35 participants through a partnership with the Fashion Institute of Technology. Q Lead a search for New York City’s most innovative retailer that will result in free temporary retail space, marketing and public relations. Q Create a fund to provide loans to emerging design- ers provided they use local manufacturers to produce their collections. Q Establish a fellowship program for fashion man- agement, and reach out to more interns and college PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 18 2 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012 WWD.COM Burch Stays Private as Wall Street Beckons if the Chinese opportunity becomes too tempting By EVAN CLARK or the company decides it wants to ramp up its busi- the Briefing Box ness in the region quickly, it will have to spend some in Today’s WWd ToRy BuRCh wiLL take her bow on the runway serious bucks to do so. today, but will she ever ring the bell at the New york “if you really want to have a scalable business and Stock Exchange? have more than two stores in China, which is a market Liliane Bettencourt, daughter of L’Oréal’s founder, has There would be big bucks in an initial public of- that can probably absorb a lot of Tory Burch, you need ended her storied and recently controversial tenure on the fering for Burch and her investors. Michael Kors per- quite significant capital,” said hana Ben-Shabat, a part- company’s board. PAGE 1 sonally raised $117 million when his firm went public ner in A.T. Kearney’s retail practice. “in a brand like this, in December and the stock has jumped 68 percent to the future is really emerging markets. if she’s not happy $33.61 so far, giving the growing company — which with the current level of performance in her core mar- Mayor Michael Bloomberg revealed new reports its results today — a market capitalization of ket, it’s almost inevitable that she has to go to other mar- initiatives geared to fostering future generations $6.41 billion. That’s $860 million more than the market kets. it’s difficult to drive high-single-digit or double-digit of designers in New York City at the CFDA Fashion capitalization of PVh Corp., which owns Calvin Klein growth in the united States. it’s just not going to happen.” Incubator on Monday. PAGE 1 and Tommy hilfiger and a host of other businesses. Ben-Shabat said the company might also need to is Tory Burch in that league? There’s one way for raise money if it wants to expand into other categories. her to find out — and no one is using the “ToRy” ticker. All that untapped potential for expansion has “we are very happy with the way the business is wall Street salivating. Experts weigh the pros and cons of whether Tory Burch growing under the present private ownership struc- “it would be fantastic,” said Paul Lejuez, an equity should go for an initial public offering. PAGE 2 ture,” Burch, who is her firm’s chief executive offi- analyst at Nomura Securities, of a Tory Burch iPo. cer, told wwD. “As of now, we have “There’s a thirst in the market for no intention of an iPo.” growth stories right now and particu- The primary focus on the opening day of the it’s that tease — the “As of now…” larly in the accessories category, which MAGIC and Project trade shows was the changes going — and the company’s growth poten- seems to be performing very well. you on at J.C. Penney and how they will affect the rest of tial that has wall Street so interested. look at a Kors, or even if you look at the the industry. PAGE 4 Still, an iPo is a doubled-edged performance of a Coach lately, it’s been sword. Public companies are under a just remarkable.” microscope. They face a treadmill of Lejuez said the investment calcu- President Obama proposed $26 million in funding for quarterly updates to wall Street and lus for Tory Burch and Kors is similar a new Trade Enforcement Center focused on cracking are pressured relentlessly to keep and the window of opportunity for the down on unfair trade practices. PAGE 4 growing or to start paying out fat divi- firm to make an offering is wide open. dends. And when the primary brand “it’s about growth,” he said. “it’s eventually tops out, public fashion about being in the right categories, sell- Italian fabric and yarn makers are focused on exporting

companies often start to take on other Jonah Koch ing the right demographics and it’s about Tor y outside of the European Union to countries with more businesses to fuel growth, which can momentum. if Tory Burch has those stable or growing economies. PAGE 12 lead to ungainly portfolios of labels Burch three things, which i assume they do, the that only sometimes work together. Photo by window’s open and i don’t see it closing.” “you’re under an enormous amount of scrutiny as a The glitz of fashion also doesn’t hurt. “it’s prob- public company and it’s very difficult to constantly please ably easier to tell a Michael Kors or a Tory Burch type Onward Kashiyama is plotting the relaunch of its ICB wall Street when you’re trying to run a fashion business,” story to wall Street because they know the brand, be- label with Prabal Gurung at the design helm. PAGE 18 said Marc Federbush, partner in charge of the apparel cause they shop the brand,” said Lejuez. and textile services group at the accounting firm Anchin, The value of Tory Burch the company was Block & Anchin. “it’s a fickle industry. you’re only as good brought to the fore when Barclays Capital was hired Diesel Black Gold as your last season. you can be out of fashion pretty quick to sell off the portion of the company still held by today will open and wall Street doesn’t always understand that.” Chris Burch, the designer’s ex-husband who remains its first retail Even so, the benefits can be pretty sweet. co-chairman of the firm. unit, in New York’s

“it’s very prestigious to say, ‘i am the ceo of on balance, though, wall Street might need Tory SoHo. PAGE 18 s a publicly trade company in the united States,” more than Tory needs its money, at least for now. Federbush said. “if [a company has] in excess of $500 “She can take enough off the table in salary and million or a billion of sales, then i see maybe there’s benefits,” said one industry source. “her lifestyle The schedule for Vanity Fair’s “Campaign Hollywood,” the a reason, because that will open up some capital is more than supported. i don’t think there’s pres- magazine’s annual week-long celebration leading up to the where they can fund growth overseas.” sure on her to take this company public. i don’t think Academy Awards, is out. PAGE 21 Tory Burch is said to have sales in excess of $450 Tresalia [the Mexican investment firm that owns a million and has 65 stores, including two outposts in minority stake] really cares, but at some point the Mainland China, a region that is a priority for the design- shareholders are going to want liquidity.” Fashion-circuit regulars such as Olivier Zahm and Elisa er, who decided to take on the market without a partner. There’s the pecking order to think of, too. Sednaoui attended a dinner party hosted by Diane von “it’s something i’m personally passionate about,” Burch “There’s a competitive element of, ‘hey, we’re bet- said last year. “we don’t need immediate gratification. ter than Michael Kors,’” the source noted. “They’re right Furstenberg at Indochine on Sunday night. PAGE 22 we want to do it organically…in an understated way.” across the street from each other on Madison Avenue.” The main attractions at the Carlos Miele show were Brazilian brothers and DJ partners Sean and Tom Florio to Head Advanstar Fashion Group Anthony Souza. PAGE 23 iN A MoVE AiMED at expanding its fashion trade year,” said Loggia. show properties into new platforms and businesses, Florio noted he has been attending the MAGiC Advanstar Communications inc. has named former trade show since the time it was staged in California. Vogue publishing director Tom Florio as chief exec- “The structure of the fashion business has changed on WWD.CoM utive officer of its Advanstar Fashion Group. his first so much and brands no longer need to be filtered only through buyers and editors any more — al- official day was Monday, which was also the kickoff They Are Wearing: Off the of the fall MAGiC marketplace in Las Vegas. though they are still important. i’m interested in and

L runways and onto the streets in his new role, Florio will oversee the various how this can be applied to the b-to-b space,” he said. MAGiC men’s shows, as well as Project, wwDMAGiC, Florio exited Condé Nast in 2010 and joined iMG and sidewalks for some of the best looks from New York FN Platform, Sourcing at MAGiC and Pool. he reports worldwide as senior adviser for fashion to the office of Outside the to Joe Loggia, ceo of Advanstar Communications. the chairman, the late Teddy Forstmann. he left Condé Lexie More Fashion Week. For more, Carlos Miele see WWD.com/eye. Central to Advanstar’s plans is the launch this sum- Nast as senior vice president and publishing director fall show. mer of a digital initiative for its fashion properties at of Vogue, Teen Vogue, Bon Appétit and Condé Nast Shopthefloor.com. The site is intended as a year-round Traveler. From 2002 to 2009, he was vice president and Photo by platform for vendors and retailers to do business, publishing director of the Vogue Group. Earlier in his while also providing a dedicated interface for brands career, he was publisher of GQ, president of The New to interact directly with consumers. The public will be yorker and publisher of Condé Nast Traveler. able to build looks on each brand’s dedicated channel, in a related move, Chris DeMoulin, previously pres- letting companies know which styles they like best. ident of MAGiC, has been shifted to a separate division WWD. “it will completely revolutionize the b-to-b expe- of Advanstar and named president of licensing and ex- rience. it will extend the buying, selling, network- ecutive vice president of customer development. Available ing and collaborating in our industry to 365 days a — DaviD Lipke on iPad.® To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 203, NO. 32. TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, ACCESS IT* Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. 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Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. © 2012 Maybelline LLC.

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Notes: None 4 WWD tuesday, february 14, 2012 WWD.COM Obama Looks to Fund Upbeat Mood at Vegas Shows Trade Enforcement buying plans for the rest of the year. coming off of the best holiday season By RACHEL BROWN Durand Guion, vice president and we’ve had in the company’s history. Our and JEAN E. PALMIERI men’s director for Macy’s Inc., said: “Six business continues to grow each day, By KRISTI ELLIS months ago, we were somewhat optimis- especially in mobile and tablet shop- LAS VEGAS — The mood was optimis- tic and today we’re upbeat and looking ping.…We’ve been off to a strong start in WASHINGTON — President Obama pro- tic on the opening day of the MAGIC and forward to coming to the shows and con- Q1 and expect that to continue into Q2.” posed $26 million in funding for a new Project trade shows, but there was one centrating on our game plan, which is to Annemarie Dillard, director of contem- Trade Enforcement Center focused on primary focus: how the changes in pricing find newness and confirm the trends and porary sportswear for Dillard’s Inc., said, cracking down on unfair trade prac- and vendor structure at J.C. Penney Co. go after them. We’re past the uncertainty “It is getting a lot more optimistic. I don’t tices, in addition to more money to help Inc. will affect the rest of the industry. now. The customer is more interested in know that we have recovered from where achieve his goal of doubling exports and “It’s a real game-changer,” said one high- fashion, trends and fit. He’s definitely not we have been, but the customer seems boosting other trade priorities in his $3.8 ranking executive from a competing depart- just replacing items, but adding them.” willing to buy things that she likes.” She trillion federal budget proposal submit- ment store, who requested anonymity. For Macy’s, the top trends for fall in- continued, “When we do have something ted to Congress on Monday. Most retailers were taking a wait-and- clude the evolution of the varsity-colle- fantastic and unique, we can see fantastic While the President’s blueprint for the see attitude about Penney’s, but were giate trend so it’s “not as preppy. We’re returns on that. It is really indicative of federal budget in fiscal year 2013, which keeping a close eye on how the American also looking for a resurgence of dress-up,” how we see our selling. If she doesn’t want begins Oct. 1, calls for dramatic belt- shopper will respond to new chief execu- with three-piece dressing and slim fits something, it doesn’t matter how much we tightening, with $4 trillion in projected tive officer Ron Johnson’s dramatic shift leading the way. Guion also sees growth mark it down, it doesn’t seem like we can deficit cuts over the next decade, it calls away from promotional pricing. in dressier woven shirts as well as ac- sell it. She really wants special things.” for more money to be devoted to trade en- “I’m really curious to see if the consum- cessories such as hats, bags, jewelry and With their prospects sunnier, women’s forcement and the agencies that negotiate er is ready for it,” said Doug Ewert, ceo of novelty socks. Denim vests and jackets retailers expressed a greater willing- trade deals and help support boosting ex- The Men’s Wearhouse Inc. “As a retailer are also opportunities, he believes. David ness to take chances on new brands. “We ports. One of the largest trade initiatives, used to running an everyday value business Zant, executive vice president and gen- are pretty careful about trying to budget which Obama outlined in his State of the which is now promotional, I hope it works.” eral merchandise manager of men’s for when we are testing out new brands, but, Union address last month, is a new trade Burton Krieger, president of Boscov’s, Belk Inc., said of 2011: “We had a great with our growth, we have much more enforcement unit that will go after unfair was also keeping a watchful eye on year. We were pleased with our overall resources available, and so when we trade practices, such as counterfeiting Penney’s. “There’s a lot of conjecture out business and our men’s business. And are going into these shows, we are able and illegal subsidies by trading partners. there about the Penney’s plan,” he said. we’re off to a good start in February.” He to pick up new brands and not only are Discussing the new initiative, Gene “That’s the big question.” seeing our [existing] brands that Sperling, director of the National Another department store The Doneger Group highlighted key are here, but getting to browse,” Economic Council, said, “As part of our merchant said of Penney’s: men’s wear trends for fall on the said Jeni Ni, women’s buyer jobs manufacturing strategy, putting “We’re watching it very closely. opening day of the MAGIC show. for online streetwear retailer forward an interagency trade enforce- It’s good for us in the short term, Karmaloop.com. ment center — $26 million, 50 to 60 new but we’ll have to see how it Ni explained Karmaloop, people, greater coordination in the gov- plays out in the future.” which is launching a women’s ap- ernment, and this is designed to signifi- Most retailers weren’t ready parel Web site in the summer at cantly increase our capacity to bring ad- to shift their business model to Misskl.com, is expanding beyond ditional trade cases that will level the respond to Penney’s just yet. streetwear and has had success playing field against countries around Instead, they were prepared with trendy fashion brands like the world, including China.” to scour the aisles of the trade Style Stalker in doing so. “We The Commerce Department’s shows blanketing Vegas to en- have seen their growth jump 200 International Trade Administration sure their assortments for fall percent,” said Ni of Style Stalker. would receive $24 million of new fund- were on trend and would contin- For new and more estab- ing and the U.S. Trade Representative’s ue to lure the customer into their lished brands, affordability office would receive $2 million to co- stores after a solid holiday sea- remains crucial to shoppers. ordinate the interagency program, ac- son and a strong start to spring. Although Ni said Karmaloop. cording to Rebecca Blank, acting deputy Among the top trends in the com is dipping its toes into more Commerce secretary. men’s market were updated expensive lines, she noted lower Stephen Lamar, executive vice military looks; a continuation price point items are continu- president of the American Apparel & of outdoors-heritage; a mixing ally popular, including dresses Footwear Association, said, “If it is prop- of fabrications; the heavy use of retailing for between $36 and erly focused on the egregious problems, tweeds, velvets and corduroy, and lots of said better collections, premium denim $60. “The holiday retail season showed such as the new import restrictions im- leather, suede and shearlings, according and young men’s were the drivers so far; that consumer appetite for deals has def- posed in Argentina, it can be additive to to Tim Bess, men’s fashion trend analyst however, the warm weather put “pressure initely not abated at all,” said Bernhard, what the U.S. is already doing.” for The Doneger Group. He also singled on outerwear and seasonal accessories.” adding, “We don’t anticipate that chang- Lamar said Argentina has added hun- out “shaggy” pieces, such as hairy yarns He said because Belk has had good ing throughout the year. Consumers have dreds of products, including textiles, ap- and plush fabrications, along with sweat- sales the past two years, the challenge come to view discounts and comparison parel and footwear, to its list of imports er knits, fur trim and autumnal colors is to continue the momentum this year. shopping as the new norm.” subject to nonautomatic licensing, which as among the top looks for fall. In terms “But overall, we’re confident and the When it comes to trends, buyers point- require specialized permission to import. of key items, it’s the three-piece suit, inflationary pressure has eased, so that ed to neon and pastel colors as the high- The International Trade Administration, double-breasted jacket, overcoat, white should help, too,” said Zant. lights for spring, especially in bottoms a main engine behind promoting Obama’s shirt, vest, slim-fit trouser and heritage “The beat seems to be good for that are spanning the color spectrum. At goal to double exports by the end of 2014, bag that should be on every shopping spring,” said Boscov’s Krieger. “It start- Gojane.com, an online retailer aimed at would receive a 14 percent increase in the list, he said, as retailers map out their ed off strongly and the customer seems 16- to 24-year-old shoppers, buyer Kurt president’s budget proposal to $517 mil- ready to buy.” Kimora said tangerine and sea foam lion. The Commerce Department’s Import Conrad Symanski, president of Beall’s green are important spring hues. “For Administration, which monitors textile Outlet, said sales at his Florida-based spring, I think we need some energy,” he and apparel imports and investigates an- company were helped by the mild winter. said. “Anything muted or having to do with tidumping and countervailing duty trade “We’re transitioning to spring faster than fall isn’t coming through. Anything fun cases, would receive an increase in fund- ever,” with short sets, short-sleeve knits and bright right now is selling very well.” ing to $84.7 million from $67 million. and knitwear all getting “good early reads.” Bright colors won’t disappear as the Blank said the budget request, He was looking to fill in for summer year goes on. Dillard expects shoppers while touching on Obama’s proposed and get a feel for fall. The store’s “single will pair traditional darker colors with plan to seek consolidation authority biggest need” was in activewear such as more vivid colors come fall. “Somebody from Congress and merge Commerce, technical tanks and running shorts. [will be] wearing a bright red skinny USTR and four other agencies, does Scott Collins, vice president and gmm jean, but with a burgundy top or a hunt- not include a formal request for fund- of DTLR, said after a soft fourth quar- er green top with a brightly colored bot- ing for a new combined cabinet agency. ter, business in February is “crazy.” Top tom. Everyone is still loving color,” she Obama must first get the authority from performers include premium footwear said. “I am liking the excitement and Congress, which would be followed by and urban brands such as LRG. “The giving her a new reason to buy. No one the agencies and stakeholders formally consumer is ready to try something new needs another pair of black pants.” submitting a reorganization proposal and that’s what we’re out here looking Bernhard said the preppy tomboy and then a budget request at some point for.” He was especially excited about the look will be significant in the fall, and key in the future, she noted. addition of Trukfit, a new men’s apparel pieces for the look are crewneck sweaters Obama’s budget proposal would in- line from Lil Wayne. He was also shop- and demure skirts. “The look will be more crease the budget of USTR, which is ping for updated T-shirts and jeans. feminine than we’ve seen in past seasons. responsible for negotiating free trade At Men’s Wearhouse, Ewert said 2011 Color and print are still big for fall, with agreements and filing unfair trade cases was good and “we have good momen- increasing emphasis on bold, even retro at the World Trade Organization, to $53 tum heading into 2012. Hopefully the prints like paisley,” he said. million in 2013 from $51.3 million in 2012. European situation won’t spoil that.” At Ni warned that it’s harder to pin down U.S. Customs & Border Protection, a the shows, he said big and tall merchan- an overarching trend than it might have division of the Department of Homeland dise and “modern fit” clothing were “the been in the past. “Shoppers are going to Security that seizes counterfeit goods primary focus for our merchants in Vegas.” be looking to blend. There isn’t a specific shipped through U.S. ports, received a

HARAWAY BRYAN A positive outlook has pervaded genre that girls are looking for now. A girl slight boost to $11.9 billion from $11.7

BY women’s as well. Adam Bernhard, ceo isn’t just Goth or preppy. She can be rock- billion, while the Intellectual Property of Nordstrom Inc.-owned flash sale Web er one day and a schoolgirl the next,” she Rights Enforcement unit received an in-

PHOTOS site HauteLook, said, “HauteLook is said. “It is very mix and match.” crease of $10 million. DIESEL BLACK GOLD STORE AT 68 GREENE STREET OPENING FEBRUARY 15, 2012

www.dieselblackgold.com 6 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012

Tommy Hilfiger Donna Karan The Row

FOR MORE PHOTOS AND REVIEWS, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

MARCHING ON

Discreet chic, regal elegance and pure romance were some of the runway themes.

Donna Karan: The CFDA 50th anniversary entitled to one red riding jacket in 26 years. exhibit at FIT features a look from Donna Focusing on the clothes only, the silhouettes, Karan’s fall 1985 debut. It stands in all its black tailoring and flourishes were all Donna. That jersey, gold hardware glory as a reminder of leaves two related culprits: styling and staging. what women have always wanted from the Just a thought. designer: chic urbanity. Kudos to Karan for Big thinker that she is (and savvy to returning to that realm this fall, with a high- boot), Karan has decided that showing three glam ode to, call her what you will, the sexy collections during fashion week (Donna Karen, power woman or the cerebral bombshell. DKNY, DKNY men’s) leaves a hole. Thus, she The collection centered on a reed-thin piggybacked her Casual Luxe lineup onto the silhouette and tailoring galore, often in main event. While any 12-look range covering pinstripes. Karan incorporated her signature both Eighties-esque blanket dressing and biker asymmetric maneuvers — half-collars, side- chick is bound to feel dissonant, there were draping, off-kilter slits — and dared to revive plenty of keeper pieces in the mix. an audacious shoulder. She finished everything off with fabulous “cubist” (they had their own Carolina Herrera: Navy and black, a tried-and- asymmetry going on) fedoras by Stephen Jones, true tonal pairing, was utterly compelling at who just may prove to be one of the biggest the opening of Carolina Herrera’s collection. stars of the New York season. Evening looked She nailed it — a beautiful display of regal plenty fresh — lean, constructed gowns and elegance subdued by color, which was quite a a miraculous mélange of felted jersey and commitment, too. The first dozen looks came sequins on something sheer. in shades of deep indigo with black accents. Sounds good, right? Ye s — with a bizarre Luxed-up fabrics, such as knits with feather caveat. Independently, the thoughts of three and fur details, blurred the line between different WWD editors (and, by extension, traditional day- and eveningwear, and had a probably others in the audience) strayed to modern flexibility. For example, a turtleneck Ralph Lauren land. Why? Ralph doesn’t own sweater was sewn with broadtail details on pinstripes (Donna’s done her share), and she’s the front and worn with an embroidered wool WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012 7 LL 20 WWD.COM FA 12 pencil skirt, and a wispy embroidered silk dress peaked Thakoon out from under a cozy mélange knit coat. COLLECTIONS From there, Herrera broke the darkness, creating a divide in the collection. Heavy-handed abstract prints NEW YORK by artist Joe Duke, many of which were painted onto the fabrics, seemed to get lost in translation along the way. More subtle yet effective were the tweaked proportions, specifically cropped tops worn over high-wasted bottoms. That minor adjustment updated Herrera’s signature polish and boosted her cross-generational appeal.

Tommy Hilfiger: The Park Avenue Armory’s set of autumnal trees gave a glimpse of things to come at Tommy Hilfiger. “Greenwich meets Park Avenue, town and country,” he said at a preview of the collection — which was quite a departure for the designer. It featured a strong lineup of polished silhouettes with equestrian and military touches rendered in warm, fall hues like burgundy, brown and forest green. There was an abundance of great outerwear, including a black and purple double-breasted riding coat, a leather trench and a houndstooth coat with vintage appeal. Cable knit was another point of interest, which Hilfiger interpreted as a print on a loosely-fitting silk organza dress, and a top that he teamed with a brown-and-blue suede and leather skirt. Driving home the horsey, country theme were several riding motif prints (on silk halter dresses, blouses and skirts) as well as quilted suede jackets and skirts. Hilfiger clearly had a sophisticated woman in mind with this collection — the kind that might also love the classic music he played, which included Simon & Garfunkel, the Rolling Stones, and, in the finale, The Beatles’ “All Yo u Need is Love.”

The Row: The setting — Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle — telegraphed more than a lovely way to start the morning, over tea and crumpets. It indicated a mood far removed from the trade-show aura of Lincoln Center. The intention, Ashley Olsen said postshow, was to keep The Row “intimate and as pretty and pure as possible.” Mission accomplished and beautifully so, as Ashley and her designing partner, Mary-Kate Olsen, delivered a treatise on discreet chic, all the more impressive for its ample use of fur. While spring was ethereal, here the designers took a more grounded approach, starting with substantial, flat sandals. The tight lineup of neutral- toned coats, separates and dresses played like an elegant woman’s well-functioning wardrobe. Aside from some sturdy taffeta pants, shapes were lean but not fitted, the longer torso marked by tabs, wraps and various other treatments near the hips. Otherwise, interest came in details of cut and textural plays: alligator trim outlined a hammered cashmere coat; an interesting dress featured a long mink front panel attached to a chiffon bodice and cady skirt. For evening, the strapless, loosened black column made a convincing case for the power of plain. Michael Bastian Thakoon: Classic ladies are not Thakoon Panichgul’s type, so it was surprising to see him build his fall collection around prim shapes, such as short, straight dresses with three-quarter sleeves. The models were prom ready in messy French twists and painted pouts that matched the shades pulsing on the clothes (magenta, fuchsia and cherry red ) — colors of the heart. This was Panichgul in the mood for love. “I was feeling something a bit more romantic,” he said during a preview. “It’s charming in an old school way, like romantic New York.” That seems almost quaint in the wake of his last two shows, stellar affairs steeped in ethnic references as disparate as maharajas and Marie Antoinette. If this collection didn’t match their mesmerizing fusion of color and exotic taste, it offered plenty of lovely clothes. The pretty cliches were deliberate, though nothing was played on the nose — that’s not Panichgul’s style. An undercurrent of sly irony and subversive sexuality coursed through the collection, winking at bad taste along the way. A camel coatdress that looked plain and proper from the front had a purple leopard-printed pony collar and an openwork leather basketweave panel in the back. Crinkled patent leather came in black and wild pink, the latter on a skirt sporting a big bow at the tail. Chubby sweaters were laced with Mongolian fur in an explosion of exuberant fuzz. And for the girl who doesn’t wear her heart on her sleeve there was chic understatement too, such as a black halter — completely backless — worn with matching trousers.

Michael Bastian: The first look Michael Bastian sent out was a chalk-stripe, double-breasted power suit. It was a nod to a major trend in Europe, but also a signal that Bastian, who is usually comfortable in the Americana arena, is thinking about his preppy aesthetic in a more continental way. The designer played up a masculine- feminine theme, from body-conscious looks that hugged the models’ physiques to the full makeup that appeared on several of them. The new direction was underscored

with cutesy sweaters, including one with a Charlie Brown GIANNONI GEORGE GIOVANNI AND CHINSEE AQUINO, JOHN zigzag and two others with dog motifs. He also softened tougher pieces like a burgundy leather jacket with Carolina Herrera pinstripe pants and purple socks. BY PHOTOS 8 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012

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Theyskens’ Theory: In just a few seasons, Olivier In fact, Posen was at his best when he kept Theyskens has developed a clear signature things relatively pared down. Contrarily, his for Theyskens’ Theory — ubercool with a indulgence in kimono sleeves and theatrical street edge tempered by adult sophistication. opera coats burdened some looks with This time, he downplayed his Goth impulses excessive weight and pomp. That said, Posen’s and amped up the glamour with glittering loyal fans have plenty to look forward to. gold tweed coats and jackets that displayed his strong tailoring skills, as well as lovely 3.1 Phillip Lim: Neo-noir comics like “V for metallic sweaters and ombré effects on denim Vendetta,” along with the idea that not and velvet. There were still some darker everything is ever as it seems, informed moments found in the black leather jackets, Phillip Lim’s intriguing collection. He skirts and shorts, but they looked more soft explored concepts of mapping and paneling than tough in Theyskens’ hands. to create clothes that played optical tricks His evening, a pair of sober party dresses — in most cases, two mirroring silhouettes in particular, had the kind of moody Victorian sliced to make the wearer look slimmer. lyricism that made him famous and that (The method got much media play last defined his work at Nina Ricci and Rochas. fall when Kate Winslet wore two different It’s great to see that romantic aesthetic now so Stella McCartney illusion dresses on the red much more accessible, yet still plenty strong. carpet.) Lim’s 41 looks explored that optical theme, from a black-and-nude jumpsuit with Zac Posen: True to his penchant for grandeur, a trompe l’oeil bustier to the graphic black Zac Posen delivered a dramatic lineup and white cable knits — a strong point in inspired by an ongoing fascination with the lineup. He also took the idea further chinoiserie and Japan. Short dresses, gowns with jackets constructed to look like two and evening suits in red, gold, jewel tones and layered garments, as well as draped and the occasional neutral were folded and seamed twisted knitwear, some with sleeves dangling, like origami paper to accentuate and flatter trainlike, from the backs of chunky sweaters, all the right curves. Other Eastern ingredients which, simply put, looked strange. included rich floral jacquards and obi sashes. All the signature Posen silhouettes were there: Simon Spurr: Not one to forget his British peplum-waisted tops and jackets, flounced roots, Simon Spurr turned to Robert Frank’s hems, sharp tailoring, a superslim waist photographs of London for inspiration. His and, yes, plenty of mermaid skirted gowns — first look — a formfitting three-piece shadow however, a couple of the latter appeared too windowpane suit — continued the case for rigid for walking. There were some lovely the dressed-up man that’s been all over the dresses, including an understated number in runways this season. In Spurr’s hands, it alabaster peony jacquard and some simpler became edgy, youthful and relevant, with gowns with the aforementioned origami detail. several military touches. He played with

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Rachel Roy Ohne Titel Simon Spurr Thom Y-3 Browne

Y-3

For more photos and reviews, see WWD.com/ runway.

different textures, including leather contrast ghostly fabric covering their heads, hands sleeves on a brown wool coat, and amped up and feet. They, as the eulogist read, “loved the across-the-pond flavor with an oversize life and fashion.” The clothes that ensued houndstooth pattern for a sleek suit with a were meant to represent their final reverie. peak lapel — think Austin Powers on a fun Models floated through the dimly lit room romp. And while this collection may have in layered, folded, draped, parachuted and lacked some of the energy of seasons past, his reptilian-spiked creations that brought impeccable tailoring skills proved, once again, to mind a creepy Tim Burton-meets-Rei that the designer is a cut above the rest. Kawakubo moment. Many silhouettes were deceptively slimming at the front while Rachel Roy: Architectural silhouettes balanced scaled to exaggerated, tent-like proportions with natural elements is how Rachel Roy at the back. Tailored jackets and skirts of described her collection in the show notes. varying lengths were layered on top of one That meant a play on textures — layering another — a familiar look chez Browne — chunky with fine knits, combining a leather while funny fox scarves in wool, complete and crochet tweed on a pretty dress — and with head and legs, were draped over adding surface elements, like beaded models’ shoulders. Little in this dream world embellishments, on a structured tweed dress. translated into reality, save for a handful of An eggplant-colored group, which included jackets and a gray schoolgirl look worn under a jacket that hung like a cape with wide-cut a cropped mink jacket. culottes, enhanced the lineup’s charming Seventies feel. Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 looked tougher than usual this season. Finding inspiration Ohne Titel: Inspired by textile artist Sheila in the nomadic cultures of Central Asia, the Hicks’ graphic approach to texture, Alexa collection was a mixture of ethnic pieces Moncler: With New York City as a Adams and Flora Gill sent out a dramatic (capes, ponchos and harem pants) and backdrop, Moncler Grenoble staged Ohne Titel lineup. There were plenty of Americana (parkas, hooded vests and long, another jaw-dropping presentation, this the beautiful knits that have become their striped pullovers) shown in brights and a time at Central Park’s Wollman Rink. signature — pleated skirts, jacquard dresses gray-to-black palette. The designer’s way with Divided into monochromatic teams — and a check-patterned jacket. Leather was loose and layered pieces made it all work so blue, gray, white and red — professional used for T-shirts and dresses, while a black- beautifully. Outerwear was the strongest, the skaters gave a remarkable synchronized and-white-striped fox fur coat made a bold best being a rich curly wool color-blocked coat. performance. As for the clothes, layering statement, and some sleek color-blocked suits For men, Yamamoto infused military was a given with turtlenecks, soft fur looked sporty and playful. and urban vibes, producing pieces like an vests, cozy chunky sweaters, stretchy elongated hybrid nylon bomber coat paired skinny pants and the requisite lean ski Thom Browne: Fall at Thom Browne unfolded with baggy sweatpants and a printed scarf. It jackets. The looks were finished with at the scene of a eulogy for 10 girls lying in was a perfect example of the designer’s blend long knit gloves, legwarmers and fur hats open coffins, all dressed in gray suits with of Eastern influence and Western style. adding to the outdoor, cold weather fun.

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Timo Weiland: Timo Weiland and Alan Timo Weiland Timo Weiland Chris Benz Reem Acra Eckstein took a luxurious approach to Nineties grunge, presenting outerwear — some cozy with fur details — over diaphanous dresses in floral and planetary prints. In contrast, the velvet gowns in black and plum featured minimal cuts and added a level of sophistication to their lineup. When it came to men’s wear, the designers played it safe, but wool and leather motorcycle jackets in black and gray plaid, along with an abstract floral button down shirt and trouser look, helped liven things up a bit.

Chris Benz: This season Chris Benz thought “like a little kid watching your mom getting ready for a holiday party,” circa the heyday of Judy Garland and Marilyn Monroe. The icons were also part of the story, most obviously in the retro wigs — quite a hoot. This was Benz’s signature color-and- texture fest at its most exuberant. What could best be described as party skirts — full, with ample pleats and layers of tulle and lamé — were great for the girl who doesn’t mind if her outfit wears her. The cropped jackets, some in fur, some in fuzzy wool, on the other hand, were the perfect balance of quirky and current.

Reem Acra: What a year Reem Acra has had, and it’s only mid-February. When Madonna wore the designer’s gown to the recent Golden Globes, the exposure thrust Acra into the fashion spotlight. Her next big moment came at the end of her runway show, when out came the striking evening looks in black, gold and silver, featuring beaded graphic Deco patterns and revealing cutouts. There were beaded micro minis too; the black one with a mock turtleneck added real sex appeal. The sportswear’s leather jackets, trapunto- ALL 2012 stitched coat and metallic tweed suits F didn’t carry the same weight, but who cares? All eyes were on the gowns. COLLECTIONS Preen by Thornton Bregazzi: Taking a fanciful trip down pretty lane, Preen’s Justin NEW YORK Thornton and Thea Bregazzi stayed on the right side of cool. Inspired by Beatrix Potter’s botanical illustrations, Victorian-era scrapbooks and abstract expressionists, they worked a heavy use of prints, texture and color on flirty tops Preen by Yeohlee Behnaz Sarafpour Mathieu Mirano and skirts paired with two-tone tailored Thornton separates and intarsia-knit sweaters. With Bregazzi multiple variations on the same look, it felt a bit repetitive, yet the overall effect was still enticing.

Yeohlee: Yeohlee Teng gave an informal presentation of just seven looks, but nothing felt incomplete. Assorted textures in beige were perfect on a quilted silk coat, and two beautiful dresses — one loose and long in ribbed wool Modal jersey with an elongated torso; the other short and chic in purple silk faille — were just right. She also managed to pack in plenty of fabrics, colors and shapes: a hunter green and cobalt blue mohair wool wrap and plaid shorts, a white plastic cotton duffle over a black textured wool coat and a T-shirt with pleated gabardine skorts gave the collection a sense of cohesion.

Behnaz Sarafpour: While at the Venice Biennale last summer, Behnaz Sarafpour was inspired by the city’s glass so she incorporated it into jewelry for her lineup. This began her play on “fashion x-ray,” which translated into luxe transparent and decorative elements, with millinery braiding on a sheer embroidered petticoat skirt, silver boning techniques on tailored coats and dresses and sunburst pleats on lace frocks.

Mathieu Mirano: One doesn’t expect much from a 20-year-old Parsons dropout, so Mathieu Mirano’s sophomore presentation came as a pleasant surprise. Inspired by FOR MORE PHOTOS a dream involving women, the sun and AND REVIEWS, SEE a dragon, he worked metallic sunburst embroideries on gowns and coats, while WWD.com/ MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA clawlike hardware was featured on a fur runway. coat and leather paillettes on skirts and

tulle tops. PHOTOS BY www.pamellaroland.com 12 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012

Prints from Seteria textiles Argenti. Italian Fairs Battle Euro Zone Woes

cent increase in foreign visitors revealed a key market for Loro Piana, showed a By SOFIA CELESTE a strong interest in the fair emanating surprising turnaround in 2011 after the from Greater China — Chinese visitors tsunami and earthquake tragedy in 2011, MILAN — With its home economy expect- increased 73 percent, while there were Loro Piana said. ed to slide further, Italian fabric and yarn 109 percent more from Hong Kong and 35 “We thought it would be a disaster,” he makers are focused on exporting outside percent more from France. said. “Sales grew 8 percent [in Japan].” of the troubled European Union to coun- “China, together with Hong Kong, is Franco Ferraris, ceo of Lanificio tries with more stable or growing econo- one of Italy’s most important markets for Ermenegildo Zegna & Figli, cited India mies, such as China, India and the U.S. textiles, second only to Germany,” Milano as a market with great potential, adding, MAESTRI Fabric producers at Milano Unica, Unica organizers said. “India has about a billion people — it has the three-day show that ended Thursday, an economy that is growing.” DAVIDE BY said despite uncertainty over the weak- Tessuti di Sondrio general manager ening euro and higher raw material pric- Fabio Grazioli said the brand is concen- PHOTO es, they’re seeing positive sales trends as trating on the Far East and the U.S. mar- they kicked off their spring 2013 season. kets, noting “The U.S. is a market that uncertain. On Monday, the euro traded at Earlier, at the Pitti Filati trade fair in $1.3B understands high-end sportswear.” $1.32, compared to $1.37 a year ago, and Florence, currency fluctuations posed a Tessuti di Sondrio, a company owned 1.23 Australian dollars, also compared to concern for high-end Italian yarn makers EXPECTED 2011 REVENUE FROM ITALIAN by the Marzotto Group that specializes in 1.37 Australian dollars a year ago. presenting their 2013 spring collections, YARN EXPORTS, AN 11.2 PERCENT INCREASE. cotton and linen looks, showcased pastel “The currency effect has changed ev- as a weaker euro against the strength- pants and jackets at its Hamptons beach- erything,” said Antonio Bigolin, owner of ening U.S. and Australian dollar cast a inspired stand. Periwinkle blue and pow- Alpes, noting that a weaker euro helps question mark over full-year forecasts. As a result, Milano Unica is in the der pink made their way onto slacks and exports, but a stronger dollar means less Italy’s gross domestic product con- process of organizing two editions of the blazers for men. Linen blazers, explorer raw material purchasing power. tracted 0.2 percent in the third quarter fair in China, one in Beijing and one in jackets and double breasted coats dem- Due to recent currency movements of 2011 and some economists see the Shanghai, and will also be at the Milano onstrated the many ways the material and the persistently unpredictable raw economy contracting further in 2012, as Unica pavilion dedicated to Italian fab- can be worn for all occasions. material fluctuations, Botto Poala raised consumers tighten their spending. Data rics at the Intertextile Beijing Fair from Lane Bottoli owner Roberto Bottoli prices for its collection 25 to 30 percent compiled by Italian fashion and trade March 28 to 30. noted that linen is on the rise because it compared to its spring line. lobby Sistema Moda Italia showed that Loro Piana, chief executive officer is an adaptable material that makes for “In 2011, sales for Botto Poala were export growth outside the EU is outpac- Pierluigi Loro Piana, said the company more relaxed, worn and even luminous pretty solid, but 2012 still remains uncer- ing that among the 27-nation bloc, rising is interested in improving its presence effects. Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna’s tain,” said Alfredo Botto Poala, president 12.3 percent and 7.2 percent, respective- in cities like Beijing and Shanghai and Tessitura di Novara unit showcased of Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, which ly, last year. is planning new openings for the next lightweight sportswear blazers and jack- owns Botto Paola. Milano Unica saw the number of visi- three years, in addition to the 13 stores ets armed with water repellent silk for Despite these issues, as well as slug- tors fall 10 percent to 18,000, but a 7 per- it already has in Greater China. Japan, men and women. gish consumer spending in Italy and com- At Biella-based Botto Fila, fine petition from China’s growing yarn indus- mixed yarns like wool and silk gave tr y, the biggest names in Italy are poised men’s looks a refined elegance. to emerge from the ongoing crisis stronger Women’s wear at Loro Piana was also than before, said Raffaello Napoleone, fused with cashmere and silk yarns. ceo of organizing body Pitti Immagine. Seterie Argenti featured digital silk “We will most likely see a rise in ex- Risk. We’ll take it. patterns that recalled the floral gar- ports in 2012,” he added. “Companies

The Zegna Baruffa stand at Pitti Filati.

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MILAN PREVIEW Bright Spots Amid Challenges

come next year, and a decrease in appar- By LUISA ZARGANI el spending between 1.5 and 2.5 percent. Pre-fall Exports in 2011 rose 14.5 percent to looks from MILAN FASHION WEEK kicks off on 41.8 billion euros, or $58.1 billion, but ex- Ferretti... Feb. 22 with the Gucci show and closes ports in 2012 are expected to drop 3.1 per- on Feb. 27 with the Giorgio Armani and cent to 40.5 billion euros, or $53.7 billion. Roberto Cavalli collections against the Exports to non-European countries, how- backdrop of a country evolving under the ever, are expected to grow by 2 percent. watch of a new government. Mario Boselli, head of the Italian Since last season, Prime Minister Chamber of Fashion, said the industry Mario Monti has succeeded Silvio was concerned about 2012 replicating the Berlusconi, and he has been working to- “vertical drop in business” seen in 2009. ward moving Italy forward, taking steps to “This will not happen, though, as compa- reestablish its role within the euro zone. nies are more structured, flexible and ef- Consumer spending has fallen off, as ficient compared to three years ago, and Italians are pressured by tax hikes, higher better equipped to manage complex op- gas prices and a rising cost of living. The erations,” he said. He also underscored credit crunch has been tough on small that the crisis is less global and more con- and midsized companies, and while there centrated in Europe, compared with 2009. is some hope for change with Monti’s ap- Gian Giacomo Ferraris, chief execu- pointment at the end of last year, there’s tive officer of Versace, mirrored Boselli’s also been a backlash against measures words. “This is a resilient brand. The to restore the country, which is weighed markets are full of perils, but we have down by a debt of 1.9 trillion euros, or $2.5 strengthened our defenses and we can trillion at current exchange, as unions tackle them in good health,” said Ferraris. fight new labor rules and pensions in- He expects Versace’s 2011 sales to reach creasingly appear as a mirage. 340 million euros, or $472.6 million, and Fighting tax evasion has been a prior- he sees double-digit growth in 2012, 2013 ity over the past few weeks, with sweeps and 2014, “barring traumatic events.” targeting ritzy resorts such as Cortina Also, the Italian brand has returned ...Cavalli... d’Ampezzo or Portofino. Consequently, to profitability in 2011. Ferraris was cau- there has been a drop in demand for luxu- tious about Italy, where he doesn’t fore- ry cars like Ferraris and Lamborghinis, be- see a pickup in business, but with the to expand in the Asia-Pacific region, through a new handbags license and has cause the wealthy do not want to call atten- fall collection, Versace has reentered in particular in Hong Kong, China and created a dedicated division to increase tion to themselves with the tax authorities. the Japanese market, and the execu- Korea, as well as in Europe and the U.S. the offer. “Apparel remains very impor- “There is no enthusiasm in Italy. It tive sees “great opportunities” in Korea, “While we accelerate our penetration tant for us, but we will see shoes, bags suffers from a general uncertainty, and Southeast Asia and China, in Latin in newer, fast-growing areas, we still be- and men’s wear grow,” he said. people are afraid of showing they can America (Mexico, Colombia, Chile and lieve there are opportunities to tap in our Business will also expand through spend,” said Vittorio Missoni, chairman Brazil), South Africa, Morocco and Egypt. more established markets,” said Mancone. licenses, including the first home col- of the family-owned fashion company The company plans to invest in retail in Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani lection to be presented at Milan’s inter- that bears his surname. cities in mature markets, too, where it is stores will open in Paris, Düsseldorf, national furniture and design show, the Despite the challenging environment, still “not present enough,” as in London, Vienna and Berlin, among other cities. A Salone del Mobile, in April; a fragrance Missoni said the company saw a 15 per- Paris, or New York, where it will open a second Emporio store, with a new mer- with Coty bowing in the spring; new cent rise in sales in Italy, but the execu- store in June, and will approach for the chandising concept, just opened its doors watches co-branded with Franck Muller, tive attributed the gains to tourists from first time cities such as Istanbul, Prague on Rue Saint Honoré in Paris. and the new Just Cavalli line licensed to Russia, the United Arab Emirates, South and Budapest. The first Giorgio Armani store will be Staff International. Leveraging on the America and the Far East shopping Giorgio Armani recorded a solid year inaugurated in Berlin during the city’s home collection, three new Cavalli in the country’s historical cities. in 2011, according to Fabio Mancone, international film festival this week. Cafés will open in 2012 — in Indeed, Italian fashion brands are head of communications and licens- “We are also completely revamp- Beirut, Doha and Kuwait — as increasingly relying on rich tourists ing at Giorgio Armani Group. ing our Manhattan store at 760 well as two new Clubs in 2012, flocking to Italy as local spending “Our revenues grew by mid- Madison Avenue, one of the larg- in undisclosed cities. has been dwindling. double-digits, confirming our solid est and most dramatic Giorgio Massimo Ferretti, chair- To further court these custom- path to sustainable, profitable Armani stores in the world,” man of Aeffe, which controls ers, Missoni plans to open a bou- growth,” he said. “The 2012 outlook added Mancone. the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino tique in Saint-Tropez, on the also seems to align on the same Other priorities are strength- and Pollini brands and pro- French Riviera, in the spring. track. While we keep focus- ening licensing agreements and duces collections for Jean “Glamorous venues, where in- ing on our core business, the further developing e-commerce Paul Gaultier, Cacharel ternational tourism is a draw, breadth of our initiatives is and digital communication, and Cédric Charlier, said are top of mind,” said Missoni. also expanding: If the high- following the launch in October the company’s focus is on Another priority is to cre- light of 2011 was the opening of the new armani.com site retail. Ferretti boutiques ate products that will “last of the Armani Hotel Milano, with all brands available for are planned to open in the longer,” that will have an icon- which brought to life the es- online shopping. Middle East, in Manama, ic status and that are never to sence of the Armani brand Retailing is also a priority Bahrain; Doha, Riyadh and be discounted. “Seasonality aesthetics, 2012 will be for Roberto Cavalli and the Kuwait City, in addition to is an issue,” he said. marked by a few critical Aeffe group. the reopening of the London According to the Italian initiatives, as well.” Cavalli has set up a new Sloane Street flagship in Chamber of Fashion, the Mancone highlighted branch in China, and the the fall. Fifteen Moschino Italian fashion industry the launch of Emporio first store in that coun- banners will open in China expected to close 2011 Armani’s active sports- try will open in Beijing (Chongqing, Hangzhou, with sales of 63.5 billion wear line EA7 worldwide. in March. Ceo Gianluca Chengdu,Nanjing, PAVESI euros, or $88.2 billion at “As official outfitters Brozzetti said the compa- Shenyang, Xian), as well

average exchange, up 5 of the Italian Olympic ny plans to open 15 stores as units in Macau; Doha; GIOVANNA

percent compared with Team, we will undertake in 2012, including stores in Riyadh; in Al Khobar and BY the previous year, lifted a major marketing and New Delhi; Madrid; Munich; Jeddah, Saudi Arabia; in

by the performance of communication cam- Saint Petersburg, Russia; the former Soviet Union cit- OTHERS leather goods, footwear paign, ranging from mul- in Paraguay’s Ciudad del ies of Samara and Tyumen; ALL and exports. This is de- timedia advertising and Este, and an in-store shop in in Armenia’s Yerevan; in spite the difficulties in p.r., to in-store and public Tokyo’s Isetan. Azerbaijan’s Baku; in the

the last quarter of 2011, events,” he said. At the end of 2011, there Crocus City Mall in Moscow, GIANNONI; hurt by the debt crisis in The company plans “a strong were 128 company stores, of and in Lima, Peru. European countries such as Italy, push” in leather accessories. “This which 77 were Roberto Cavalli Pollini, designed by Nicholas Spain and Greece. is a core strategic gap opportunity banners. “Italy is difficult and Kirkwood, will open a flagship GIOVANNI BY However, the industry forecasts for us to fill, and we have put in the second half of 2011 was dif- in Milan in tony shopping street a 5.2 percent drop in revenues in place new organization, talent, re- ficult, but sales nationally ac- Via Spiga during fashion week. 2012 to 60.2 billion euros, or $80 sources and communication strate- count for no more than 20 per- Ferretti said 2011 “closed well,” PHOTOS billion at current exchange, in light gies to position Giorgio Armani and cent of total revenues,” said with revenues rising 12.2 percent of the measures taken by Monti to Emporio Armani as serious contend- Brozzetti, adding he was gen- to 246 million euros, or $341.9 mil- FERRETI set Italy back on track, such as a ers in an ultracompetitive erally “cautious” about 2012. lion, and a “brilliant” AND reduction of 21.7 billion euros, or ...Giorgio marketplace,” he noted. The company is push- ...and start in 2012, with dou-

$28.8 billion, in total household in- Armani... The firm will continue ing the accessories category Missoni. ble-digit growth. MISSONI Icons of Style. The new SL and Lara Stone in Calvin Klein Collection. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion 16 WWD tuesday, february 14, 2012

For milan scene, see

Milan Preview wwD.com/eye. Who’s News a few fresh faces and lines to keep on the radar. By alessandra Turra

MSGM “The fall collection is focused on the Massimo Giorgetti calls theme of explosions,” Giorgetti said. himself a “fashionista Shirts, skirts and dresses featuring clean from the age of 16.” silhouettes are printed with images of differ- He founded MSGM ent kind of fireworks, along with “exploded” in 2009 with a men’s glitter, polka dots and houndstooth patterns. collection, and fol- The lineup also includes more struc- lowed with women’s tured cocktail dresses with couturelike wear in 2010 — wom- details, such as a wool style printed with en’s now accounts for chalk for a tweed-inspired effect, and a 80 percent of the com- range of outerwear pieces consisting of pany’s business. tweed, bouclé and laminated oversize or “When I first pre- fitted coats and capes. sented my men’s line, In addition, Giorgetti designed a cap- I also designed a wom- sule jersey collection for night, which en’s rugby-inspired includes a black and white floor-length bouclé jacket lined dress and a one-shoulder jumpsuit. BIKKEMBERGS and ZoRaIdE photoS By GIovanna pavESI with vintage polo The color palette is dominated by shirts and trimmed shades of pink — from baby pink and with fluorescent fab- powder pink to fuchsia — and also fea- rics,” Giorgetti said. tures black with touches of gold, red, MSGM “It had such success electric blue and green. among the interna- The MSGM collection will be shown by tional buyers that I decided to start the appointment at the Riccardo Grassi show- women’s line.” room, 4 Via Piranesi, starting Feb. 24. Produced by Central Italy-based man- ufacturer Gruppo Paoloni, MSGM collec- DIRK BIKKEMBERGS tions combine simple, easy shapes with After a seven-year hiatus, Dirk Bikkembergs experimental fabrics and exclusive prints. is returning to the women’s arena. “Our mission is to deliver strong col- For the relaunch of this division, the lections at competitive costs,” Giorgetti company tapped designer Paola Toscano, explained. “That’s why many depart- who, under Bikkembergs’ creative direc- ment stores are still trying to understand tion, will show her first collection for the where it’s better to display our pieces. brand during a presentation on Feb. 23 at They think that in terms of style, they the label’s Milan flagship. should stay next to designer brands, even “I feel very close to Dirk in terms of if, considering prices, they are in line creativity and we share the same, al- with contemporary labels.” most obsessive veneration for the human Ricostru The lines are currently sold at about 300 body,” said Toscano, who launched doors worldwide, including Harvey Nichols her own line, called Yu London, in the RICOSTRU in London, Spiga2 in Milan, 10 Corso Como Nineties. That was shuttered in 1999. Last year, when Chinese designer Riko in Seoul and Nordstrom in the U.S. Over the years, she worked with brands Manchit Au founded her fashion line in Prices range from 250 euros, or $330 at including Anna Molinari, Prada and Guangzhou, she opted for an Italian word current exchange rate, for printed wool Strenesse Blue. Toscano was also cre- as its moniker: Ricostru, from “ricostru- dresses, to 600 euros, or $791, for silk styles. ative director at British label Matthew zione,” or “reconstruction.” Williamson, and was design director The goal, said Manchit Au, who gradu- at Emilio Pucci from 2006 to 2009 and ated in fashion design at Milan-based Dirk Piazza Sempione in 2009. Istituto Marangoni in 2009, was “to com- Bikkembergs In line with Bikkembergs’ signature municate to our customers the journey of luxury sporty attitude, Toscano designed reexploring ourselves, rebuilding confi- a sophisticated yet functional lineup, dence, re-obtaining beauty.” consisting of more casual and relaxed Centered on the concept of “basic pieces juxtaposed with formal outfits for luxury,” Ricostru collections show mini- the office and sensual eveningwear. mal shapes, sophisticated details and Zoraide “We wanted to create a bold, feminine high-quality fabrics for an elegant yet and sexy collection for a strong, dynamic comfortable look. woman, who has to face the challenges of For fall, Manchit Au introduced some tional movie icons: Marilyn Monroe, everyday life,” explained the designer, traditional Chinese elements into a line- Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo. They who opted for clean, linear shapes with up dominated by geometric lines and all feature a glossy pink sole made of a focus on shoulders and waist. elongated silhouettes. A leather Chinese Thunit, a synthetic material that looks The fitted silhouettes of comfortable jer- collar embellishes a V-neck silver and like leather. sey pants and sweaters are balanced by vo- black floor-length dress, while Asian mo- The Marilyn shoe is made of eco-liz- luminous outerwear, which includes struc- tifs appear on the belt of a long silk skirt. ard, while the vegan T-strap Greta model tured stretch wool and cashmere coats. The designer also focused on textures, features a heel made with an Italian A big focus is on silk used for both day like a stone-inspired black wool coat beech wood from a renewable planta- and eveningwear in combination with leath- that’s paired with crystallike wide-leg tion, and combines silk and carbon-neu- er, as shown on a look featuring a crepe de pants. The collection, which will be sold tral Alcantara. Audrey, a vegan fuchsia chine shirt embellished with a nappa plas- exclusively at Thecorner.com starting silk sandal, is embellished with a felt tron paired with a matching skirt. Feb. 23, features prices ranging from 180 flower hand crafted by female artisans The palette combines dark tones euros, ($238) to 1,000 euros ($1,322). in Nepal, who are supported by Global like blue and charcoal with contrasting Ricostru will show at “The Vogue Good Partners. vibrant hues — yellow, green, deep or- Talents Corner” exhibition, organized To fight poverty and promote social ange, purple and electric blue. by Vogue Italia and Thecorner.com, at justice simultaneously, this U.S.-based Toscano completed the offer with Palazzo Morando, Feb. 23 to 27. non-profit organization helps women, accessories including handbags, jew- who create fabric and handmade pieces elry and a capsule shoe collection, from ZORAIDE in depressed areas across Asia, Africa, sheepskin sneakers and loafers to san- Milan-based luxury footwear brand the Americas and the Middle East, to dals and pumps. Zoraide is introducing a new upscale, start and run their own business. Along with shopping bags and eve- eco-friendly shoe line called “Red Carpet “Many brands recently supported this ning clutches, Toscano also designed Goes Green,” during Milan Fashion Week. kind of initiative, but just for one sea- “functional fanny packs and backpacks “There are many celebrities, such as son,” said Bay. “My goal is to develop this realized in precious leather and featur- Natalie Portman, who are particularly line season after season, creating some- ing handmade stitches.” sensitive to ethical issues and are inter- thing with a real social impact.” The collection, with prices ranging ested in environmental sustainability,” For each pair sold, the company will from 300 euros, or $396, for skirts, to said Zoraide founder Paola Bay. “That’s plant a tree in a woodland project. 500 euros ($660) for jackets, to 800 euros why I’ve decided to create a line of green The shoes, which will retail from 480 ($1,055) for coats, will be available at shoes perfect for the red carpet.” euros ($634) to 560 euros ($739), will be Dirk Bikkembergs’ flagships and at se- The collection includes three styles, presented on Feb. 27 at the Zoraide lected boutiques worldwide. which Bay named after three interna- showroom at 22 Via Santo Spirito.

w14a016a;13.indd 16 2/13/12 7:54 PM 02132012195452 22-28 febbraio 2012 • 22nd-28th February 2012 Aggiornato all’8 Febbraio 2012 Update on 8th February 2012

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EVENTI MODA / FASHION EVENTS 18 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012

Bloomberg, DVF Lay Out Fashion Initiatives FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE {Continued from page one} Afterwards, Gurung said, “For someone like me, students through a coordinated effort with Parsons The who makes 95 percent of the collection in New York, it’s WWD.com/ New School for Design. great to see this initiative and effort. It gives me hope fashion-news. Q Set up a job placement program for college graduates. that perhaps there will be some benefits for the Made New York City’s Economic Development in New York label to get down the line — such as a tax Corporation president Seth Pinsky, Theory’s Andrew cut or something that will help us be more competitive Rosen, Parsons’ Joel Towers and the Fashion Center pricewise with goods made in Europe and Asia.” Business Improvement District’s Barbara Randall Making sure that people want to work in the city were also on hand. is imperative, said Bloomberg, adding that corporate Bloomberg noted how the fashion industry employs taxes are “much too high” for domestic manufacturers 173,000 people, accounting for 5.7 percent of the city’s to compete with international counterparts. He said the workforce and generating nearly $2 billion in tax reve- same argument cannot be made for income taxes and nue annually. The fashion industry is a $350 billion busi- repeated his stand to eliminate all of the Bush-era tax ness in the U.S., according to Maloney. She and Rep. Jerrold Nadler (D., N.Y.) co-founded SUNG AND LEXIE MORELAND EVAN the fashion caucus to provide copyright pro- Inside the first Diesel Black Gold store. tection for fashion designs and to separately work with Bloomberg and city council offi- PHOTOS BY cials to preserve New York’s Garment Center. Held at the Council of Fashion Designers of America Fashion Incubator, Prabal Gurung, Diesel Black Gold Maxwell Osborne, Bibhu Mohapatra, Yuvi Alpert and Alice Ritter were among the mem- Opens Unit in SoHo bers of the inaugural group that attended Monday’s gathering. Noting how half of the participants were born elsewhere, Bloomberg By DAVID MOIN repeated his call for immigration reform to NICHOLAS make it easier for foreigners to start business- NEW YORK — Diesel Black Gold, the four-year-old es here. He also repeatedly stressed the need DAVID advanced contemporary division of Diesel, now has BY to cultivate young design talent, especially a proper retail showcase for its edgy metallic leather

since the rock-bottom pricing of overseas pro- PHOTO shorts, raw silk linen pants and distressed denims. duction has stung domestic manufacturing. The scene at Monday’s industry address. “We’ve built up the brand enough so that now we “The bottom line is America can compete, are comfortable providing consumers with its full ex- but we need to work harder and look at how we design cuts as the only way to close the budget deficit. pression,” said Cristiano Quieti, chief executive offi- things to make them more effective and of better quality,” As for City Council Speaker Christine Quinn’s re- cer of Diesel in the U.S., during a preview of the first Bloomberg said. “If all that we do is to try to blast what cent proposal to establish a design week, modeled after Diesel Black Gold store, opening today at 68 Greene everyone else is doing, it’s a spiraling down of our efforts.” fashion week, to market the nearly 40,000-person-strong Street in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood. During a Q&A, the mayor said the city’s “intellectual design industry that encompasses interior decorating, Two mirrored monoliths anchor the 2,500-square- capital” should be the emphasis, not domestic manu- architecture and other sectors, Pinsky said that, too, is foot selling floor, segmenting the space to create facturing, which can’t compete pricewise with overseas “something that could certainly be good for the city.” some curiosity about what’s behind the flashy bar- sourcing, especially “if you’re going to make a million When asked about the CFDA’s decision to leave the riers. The most advanced styles are in front. Just white T-shirts.” And where that production went is once garment center to relocate downtown, von Furstenberg behind are more again moving to more affordable countries, Bloomberg had a rapid-fire response. “We looked very hard to find versatile, easier-to- said. Picking up on that thread, CFDA president von what we needed. We at the CFDA, we represent down- wear sportswear and Furstenberg said the increasing cost of production town. We represent midtown. We are New York. We are jackets, as well as in China has spurred some designers to bring some fashion. We promote staying here. We promote manu- some accessories. production back to New York. Noting how she has ex- facturing here. Clearly, we are doing our job,” she said. The Black Gold envi- panded her own sample room in Manhattan, she said, “I should be a politician.” ronment is warm and “Things are changing. It’s not all one way.” Many of the 800-plus New York-based fashion com- refined, with a dark Bloomberg added, “China is the marketplace of the fu- panies are scattered throughout the city. Rezoning the wood floor and suede ture. That’s where America is going to sell its goods to.” Garment Center remains an unsettled and controver- walls offset by a ze- The way things stand now, one of every five jobs in sial matter. Results from the second part of the CFDA- bra-patterned area New York City is in wholesale and one in every 10 is backed Design for Public Space’s Made in Midtown rug and vintage furni- in manufacturing, according to Pinsky. Asked about the survey should be released soon, according to von ture that suggests the prospect of a Made in New York label for fashion goods, Furstenberg. Where that will lead remains to be seen. character of much of the mayor noted there is a “Made in NY” label for en- On her way out of the Fashion Incubator, Maloney, Cristiano the product. Behind tertainment and T V. City officials are interested in the wearing a red suit and a red Birkin bag, told a reporter, Quieti the front window, possibility of a Made in New York label but nothing con- “Anyone who says they know what’s going on with the there’s a 13-foot-long crete is on the table, according to Pinsky. redistricting is lying.” platform giving extra room for product display and graphics. At the far end, there’s an 800-square-foot raised accessories area with carpeting and a large skylight, Onward Kashiyama Sets ICB Relaunch which seems like a separate boutique. “For me, a successful space has something that draws you to TOKYO — A decade after pulling its ICB brand from the achieve sales of about 10 billion yen, or $128.8 million at the back, something to be discovered,” said Ryan U.S. market, Onward Kashiyama is staging a comeback current exchange rates. Korban, the store’s interior designer. “We wanted with Prabal Gurung at the design helm. “Instead of forcing expansion, we want to maintain things to feel very well edited.” “ICB stands for International Concept Brand, but the value of the brand. So at first we’ll be keeping the Leather represents the core of the collection, after we closed the last store in Europe, in Paris’ Saint stockists limited,” Baba said. while denim — a big component of the parent Diesel Germain, last spring, it was no longer international,” Onward hopes to open a freestanding ICB store in brand — is more of a complement. The Black Gold said Onward’s president and representative director New York as soon as next year. look tends to be cleaner than Diesel, and the shapes Akinori Baba, who took his post last September. “Onward Baba said ICB will be positioned in the market along- are sophisticated, with higher quality materials for Kashiyama is a Japanese company, so we were only look- side brands such as Carven, which have a rich history, an audience that could be older and with greater dis- ing at the Japanese market. But around the time of the but are being made modern with the help of a talented cretionary income than Diesel’s main clientele. The earthquake last year, I started thinking about the origins young designer. He described the initial offering as a company cited as key sellers the denims, which are of the brand, and [decided] that it should return to its in- hybrid of ICB and Gurung’s own style — chic, wearable priced from $250 to as high as $800 for Japanese in- ternational origins, to be…truly global, rather than just pieces incorporating intricate detailing and luxurious digo, as well as women’s gold metallic skirts, priced Japan and the rest of Asia.” fabrics. Prices will range from $106 to $140 for pants, $900; clutches for $430, and men’s leather items The first items designed by Gurung are due to hit U.S. $118 to $438 for dresses, and $158 to $558 for jackets. priced $950 to $1,800, among other items. stores in August or September, and will be revealed via a According to the executive, the relaunch of ICB in Quieti declined to project the store’s volume. digital fashion show on Wednesday. The show will be the the U.S. and Europe represents the first of what could However, he emphasized that Diesel views retail first hosted on a new platform to be launched by produc- turn out to be many steps toward building a more inter- stores for Black Gold as formats to support the tion and public relations firm KCD. nationally oriented company. Onward owns or licenses wholesaling, rather than an aggressive rollout. A “We didn’t want it to get buried [among all the other such international brands as Jil Sander, Tocca, Joseph, Black Gold store will open in Los Angeles later this shows]. I had thought that a [traditional] show is some- Missoni and Paul Smith, but it is less well known, par- year or early in 2013, and Japan and a few European thing that you feel with your five senses, but in reality, ticularly outside of Japan, for creating its own brands. cities are being eyed. the buyers and editors are so busy during fashion week “I think the idea of how we can increase the value The brand generates $40 million in volume, and that they don’t have time to feel those things,” Baba of the brands we have is very important, and I’d like to sells at 130 doors including Galeries Lafayette, said. “We wanted to experiment with something new, continue with that moving forward,” Baba said. “Now Printemps, La Rinascente, Holt Renfrew, Lane and since digital infrastructure has come this far, we Japan is at the center [of our business], and we also Crawford, Isetan, Takashimaya and specialty stores felt like we had to use it.” have brands that are based in and made in Europe. And in the U.S. In a few weeks, Black Gold will begin sell- Initially the line will be available at between 10 and elsewhere in Asia we have locations that sell Japanese ing at 10 Bloomingdale’s locations. 20 stores across the country, and the company also plans brands. But if we consider that we have the ability to With the onset of retail stores, Black Gold must be to reintroduce it to the European market from spring create and make things in other Asian countries, we careful not to disturb its wholesale business. “I don’t 2013. In Asia, it will be available in countries such as could start a brand based in Asia as well. In the U.S. we think that we are going for extensive retail develop- China and Taiwan, as well as in Onward’s home coun- also have apparel facilities. If we can both make and ment,” Quieti said. “We still see monogram stores as try of Japan. Onward plans to have the brand carried in sell products across and among all of these four areas… the showcase for the brand. We want to make sure we around 100 stores worldwide within the first three years I think it would be very interesting. It’s like localism place the brand where there are fashion and contem- of its international relaunch, and hopes the line will within globalism.” — KELLY WETHERILLE porary customers.” WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012 19 WWD.COM

BEAUTY BEAT Jean- Victor Bettencourt to Exit L’Oréal Board Meyers

{Continued from page one} has made the group even stronger. ny sales. (In the prior year, it corre- when she brought a lawsuit against “All divisions are expanding,” he sponded to 15.7 percent of the firm’s photographer François-Marie added. “L’Oréal Luxury in particular revenues.) Banier. She alleged Banier exploit- posted a very good year, especially In the fourth quarter of last year, ed the weakness of Bettencourt, who thanks to Lancôme, Giorgio Armani L’Oréal’s sales rose 5.6 percent to 5.26 gave him assets valued at about 1 bil- and Kiehl’s. Internationalization is billion euros, or $7.11 billion. On a lion euros, or $1.32 billion at current continuing across all divisions. The like-for-like basis, revenues gained 5.1 exchange. group is pursuing its conquest of the percent. In December 2010, the family part new markets, with Asia and Latin Dollar figures were converted from of the saga, which had boiled into an America leading the way, and is mak- the euro at the average exchange rate affair of state as well, abruptly ended ing clear progress in North America.” for the period to which they refer. when the mother and daughter rec- Agon further explained “2011 was Agon foresees sales and profits in- onciled. But less than a year later, also another year of solid construc- creases in 2012, which he called “a tension between the duo heated up tion for our operating profit,” which symbolic year, as the new markets are again. Bettencourt Meyers believed was 3.29 billion euros, or $4.59 billion, set to become the group’s number-one her mother remained prey to people representing 16.2 percent of compa- geographic zone.” looking to profit from her al- leged ill health. Bettencourt Meyers and her children have long maintained their support for L’Oréal, whose second-largest share- holder is Nestlé. Jean-Paul Agon, L’Oréal’s chairman and chief execu- tive, stated that Bettencourt’s “dedication and personal sup- port given to L’Oréal, her entre- preneurial spirit, her curiosity about new modern trends rel- evant to our business, are not Complex only exceptional but also dem- onstrate her deep attachment to this group and its continuity in the face of a changing world. business Her unrelenting support to the managers of the group, to its development and international needs? success has been exemplary and valuable.

Liliane Let’s talk. Bettencourt When LF USA makes acquisitions, it is natural for us to move the factoring business to CIT. We do this based on our fi rst-hand experience with the high level of service and expertise that CIT offers.”

RICK DARLING PRESIDENT LF USA photo by stephane feugere photo by

“Her participation as board director was a permanent en- couragement to pursue [the LF USA is a subsidiary of Li & Fung Limited, work of her father, L’Oréal the world’s leading sourcing company for founder Eugène Schueller] to consumer goods. A global company the grow the company, first and fore- size of LF USA needs a factor with a deep most in its quest for excellence, understanding of retail — one with the its demand for high standards ability to provide quick credit approvals on and pertinent decisions in the thousands of customers nationwide. That’s respect of the men and women why LF USA relies on CIT. of this company,” continued Agon. “We know that Madame Want to talk about how CIT Commercial Bettencourt’s interest for the Services can provide solutions for your group remains strong, and that company’s global needs? Visit us at cit.com she will continue to support its or call 800-248-3240. development going forward.” In terms of the financial re- sults, L’Oréal’s 2011 net profits grew to 2.44 billion euros, or $3.4 billion. Sales in the 12-

month period ended Dec. 31 Credit Protection ■ Working Capital were 20.34 billion euros, or Factoring ■ Import/Export Financing $28.33 billion, up 4.3 percent. On Debt Restructuring ■ Growth Financing a like-for-like basis, revenues in- creased 5.1 percent. Agon stated that 2011 “was a © 2011 CIT Group Inc. CIT and the CIT logo are registered service marks of CIT Group Inc. solid year of development, which

w14a019a;9.indd 2 2/13/12 7:57 PM 02132012195807

EDUN’S GARDEN: Theodora Richards was among the revelers at the Edun after party at The Jane hotel. WWD STYLE PAGE 22 MEMO PAD

FAIR PLAY: Vanity Fair’s “Campaign Hollywood,” the magazine’s annual weeklong celebration leading up to the Academy Awards, this year includes a 20th anniversary celebration of the Shadow Play “Vanities” page with Shailene Woodley at Juicy Couture on Monday; a cocktail reception at Hotel Bel-Air to launch Costume National toasted photographer Tim Montblanc’s newest “Princess Grace” jewelry collection on Tuesday; an Hailand’s latest book, “One Day in the Life of Robert Ermenegildo Zegna dinner at Chateau Wilson’s The Life and Death of Marina Abramovic” Marmont with Colin and Livia Firth and Anna Zegna on Wednesday; a Chrysler on Sunday night with a dramatically lit party in an cocktail reception at Beso Hollywood to support The Eva Longoria Foundation unoccupied West Village town house. Willem Dafoe on Thursday; a Richard Mille-hosted was among a few of the work’s featured players cocktail reception honoring Martin Scorsese at Hotel Bel-Air on Friday, and in attendance. For more, see page 22. a DJ night with Fiat and L’Oréal Paris on Saturday. — MARCY MEDINA

GLAMOUR NIGHT: The Ting Tings’ late- night performance at The Box on Friday capped a week of rock shows that had already included The Kills, Guns N’ Roses and the Wu-Tang Clan. The performance had as much energy as the ones before, with the band performing all of its hit songs to the crowd including Emily VanCamp, Krysten Ritter, Santigold, Olivia Palermo, Coco Rocha, Cecilia Dean, Maria Cornejo and Tinsley Mortimer. Ritter settled into a banquette with bottle service while VanCamp, who stars in ABC’s “Revenge,” caught up with Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive. Earlier that day, they attended the Jason Wu show together. The party continued on Monday night, as Katie White from the Ting Ting’s joined the magazine’s senior fashion market editor Madeline Andrews Escudero front row at Betsey Johnson. — AMY WICKS

Natalia Vodianova for Stuart Weitzman.

KICK OFF: The Stuart Weitzman spring campaign features Russian model Natalia Vodianova wearing little more than her “Stuarts.” The black-and- white images were shot by Mario Testino under the creative direction of David Lipman. Vodianova was chosen as the face of the brand not only because of her sex appeal, but because of her approachable girl-next-door allure, according to the company. The campaign also introduces the new logo design “Stuart Weitzman New York.” The company will spend $3.5 million this spring, double last year’s budget, said a spokeswoman. Ads will run internationally in March in the U.S., Italy, France, Spain and Asia. In the U.S., ads will appear in Vogue, PHOTO BY EVAN FALK Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, W, Interview and InStyle. — LISA LOCKWOOD 22 WWD TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 14, 2012

Theodora Richards FOR MORE PARTY in Edun. PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

Helena Christensen and Ryan McGinley

eye STEVE EICHNER Ali Hewson, Gabe Saporta Zani Terence and Erin Fetherston. Gugelmann Koh PHOTOS BY After-Party Dynamics A view of the exhibition.

IT IS A TRUTH universally acknowledged that the space, as were Johan Lindeberg, Waris Ahluwalia, wherever the most famous people are at a party, Marco Brambilla and Theodora Richards. Richards that is where everyone else wants to go, too. This wore a tight floral bodysuit from the line with was proved for the umpteenth time Sunday night a shaggy black fur coat over it and a scarf over at the after party for Edun at The Jane hotel. her head, shimmying and posing with Edun’s Initial entry showed a bar seemingly devoid designer, Ali Hewson. “It’s kind of funny, this line of partygoers, save a few tired members of the being environmentally friendly and everyone press. The main ballroom, with its velvet couches sitting around smoking,” one partygoer said. rubbed to a comfortable sheen and its stuffed Richards laughed, “It is fashion week.” animal heads and half-ruined disco ball, had Courtney Love arrived a little after midnight been taken over by small screens playing the and progressed straight through the near- FALK EVAN label’s spring video portraits, where models empty bar and relaxed ballroom before coming released butterflies from their gathered silk shorts to an abrupt stop on the staircase, where she and vests. Around the screens were roughly 25 briefly sat. Rose McGowan attempted to navigate PHOTOS BY people, who sat and talked in lowered voices. Ryan around her without much luck. “Who is that?” McGinley, who shot the advertisements, overlooked Love asked. Someone told her. “Oh, yeah.” the scene from halfway up the stairs. “I think it’s Love said. It was Grammys night, wasn’t it? beautiful,” McGinley said of the images. “There “ Yo u bet your ass,” Love said, before launching Performance Space are butterflies over there, too. In those cages.” into a harried analysis of the recent passing of If there were butterflies on the mezzanine Whitney Houston. Jefferson Hack peered around ON SUNDAY NIGHT, Marina in others, Hailand’s photographs level, they were either impossible to see the corner at the top of the stairs. “Oh!” Love Abramovic stood out. At a party were the only visuals. The lights because of the crush of people, or they had said and hurried up the stairs to join the crush. Costume National held in her were kept quite dim everywhere died from the exhaled smoke of cigarettes. The Back in the abandoned bar, a trio of honor, the performance artist but on the photographs. cages sat relatively unmolested, surrounded McGinley’s male models were arguing over what sported a lipstick red shirt in a Bathrooms were not easy to by discarded liquor glasses. There was no to order at the open bar. “Who cares,” one of them sea of black outerwear. “ Yo u can’t locate. One or two guests had movement within. Marilyn Minter, Stephen Dorff, said loudly, “I just don’t want to go back up there. miss her,” Tim Hailand advised, accidentally become locked in Joséphine de la Baume, Helena Christensen and I think some chick from a WB show just burned “not that you would anyway.” the upstairs facilities, and those Alexander Skarsgård were all packed together in me with her cigarette.”— ALESSANDRA CODINHA Hailand has a new book, became off-limits. “One Day in the Life of Robert Partygoers tended to keep to Wilson’s The Life and Death the ground floor in large crowds of Marina Abramovic” (to be near the bar: St-Germain had published in April), in which made a signature cocktail for he followed Abramovic as Abramovic called L’Artiste. It Rachel she created her operatic was very tart and incorporated Zoe Floral Fix biography with Robert Wilson, Champagne. Lou Reed and wife Willem Dafoe and Antony Hegarty Laurie Anderson swept through DIANE VON FURSTENBERG expanded on one of of Antony and the Johnsons. It the fete, as did Alba and Chiara her favorite subjects — girl power — as she was an experience she called Clemente, Richard Phillips, Waris worked the room during a post-runway dinner “liberating,” explaining that Ahluwalia and Marco Brambilla. party at Indochine on Sunday night. “It’s “giving my story over to someone “It’s sort of unexpected, isn’t about being a girl if you want to be a girl or else [her director, Wilson] made it?” Hailand said of the layout being a woman if you want to be a woman,” it new…it became his and mine.” of the works, walking from one she said of her fall collection. “I just want The party took place in a room to the next “we want people women to say, ‘I love being me.’ ” recently finished West Village to just move around, happen A group of partygoers, including DVF town house, a cavernous, across everything naturally.” creative director Yvan Mispelaere, Gia Coppola, whitewashed Escher maze of Abramovic had just arrived from Olivier Zahm and Eugenia Silva, cozied up next to a space filled with glass and the Berlin Film Festival that seatmates Lorenzo Martone and Douglas Friedman. centered around a roughly hewn day, a destination Hailand was DJ Chelsea Leyland spun the tunes. An all-black, slate stairwell. The party line was headed for after a few months fur-clad Rachel Zoe and husband Rodger Berman that the house was going on the spent northwest of Paris, in made a brief appearance, as did Zoe’s former market the next day; this was the Giverny. “I’ll be staying in Claude assistant Brad Goreski. first time it had been seen in its Monet’s house for a residency “I don’t understand how people do the finished entirety. Security guards and then moving into my new shows and then go out all night. I’m an old were strict about abandoned apartment in Prenzlauer Berg,” lady,” said Michelle Harper, whose appearance glassware. “Gotta keep it the photographer explained. indicated nothing of the sort. “But I do have pristine,” one guard shrugged, Berlin has been a recently fun getting dressed every single day. Every day, collecting two full glasses from a popular destination for artists for me, is fashion week.” windowsill before adding, “Not fed up with the New York “I love your dress,” said a partygoer to that I want to live here.” It felt scene. He agreed, “People model Elisa Sednaoui, who wore a sweeping, more like a gallery than a private say it’s like New York in the floor-length floral print. residence: each floor held two Seventies…but in New York “Seventies vintage prints — they don’t make small rooms connected by a glass in the Seventies people did Elisa Sednaoui ’em like they used to,” said Sednaoui, exiting platform; in some, partygoers cocaine all night and went NEIL RASMUS/BFANYC.COM and Diane von the ladies’ room. could sit atop long, black benches and worked for Halston in the Furstenberg “Well,” she took a step back and smiled, facing television screens that morning. In Berlin they don’t do — KRISTI GARCED — A.C. PHOTOS BY “maybe DVF does.” played scenes from the project, anything in the morning.” WWD Tuesday, February 14, 2012 23 WWD.COM

Mandopop singer he Jie. And dasha Zhukova and Collier Schorr represented the art world. Fashion scoops Lucas, who divides her time between Los Angeles and Australia, brought her “auntie’ with her to MOVE OVER, MIELE: The main attraction in alligator, ostrich, lizard and suede. Gotham. The actress is about to start Monday at Carlos Miele’s runway show at “The inspiration came directly from the shooting Terrence Malick’s “Knight The Stage at Lincoln Center wasn’t the ready-to-wear,” said Rodriguez, “with of Cups” with Cate Blanchett, natalie clothes or the models, although they both a mix of precious materials applied in Portman, Rooney Mara and Ryan Gosling, were beautiful. Nor was the designer new ways.” — ROXAnnE ROBInSOn-ESCRIOUT but said she is sworn to secrecy himself the center of attention. The stars about her role. were Brazilian brothers and DJ partners On MESSAGE: New Yelchin, who will appear in J.J. Sean and Anthony Souza. “Who are you?” York Sen. Kirsten Abrams’ next take on “Star Trek,” a fashion editor asked the pair after Gillibrand added said he and his fellow cast members the show, as if she’d discovered Fabio a bit of political are under strict orders not to reveal and his twin. “You’re the show! Are you gravitas to the anything about the plot. “That way Adriana Lima and donna Karan married?” A group gathered in front usual assortment people will actually want to go see of the table where the brothers plied of socials in the movie without feeling as though they Karan posed for photographers with their magic and bombarded them with the front row of have already seen it from the 50 trailers Adriana Lima. “She’s my new ambassador questions. “Do you do private parties? Carolina herrera’s and 35 ads. That will come later but for now to Haiti,” Karan explained. “Isn’t she Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand What’s the address of your Web site?” fall runway show we’ll keep quiet,” Yelchin said. As for what gorgeous? I brought her to Haiti, and she Yes, and they don’t have one. The Souzas on Monday morning at Lincoln Center. the 31-year-old actor had done for fun in just loved it. Patrick, you’ve got to go with us. even had requests for autographs, The senator, attending her first fashion New York, he said, “I had a cheeseburger Patrick will you?” Demarchelier grinned. as the mostly female crowd pulled show, came as a guest of Anna Wintour last night that was quite good, and I took a Ashley Greene’s arrival was trumpeted out notebooks or handed them their and sat in between the Vogue editor in bath in the tub in my luxurious hotel room.” by a flurry of flashbulbs and a human programs. In answer to the question, chief and W’s Stefano Tonchi. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG pileup by the top of the runway. “This is “Where will you be next,” Anthony Souza “This industry is so important to outrageous!” one editor shouted. “This shouted, “We’re going to play tomorrow New York’s economy and the U.S. SEEInG GREEnE: Everyone was very is awkward and uncomfortable!” The night [Tuesday] at Double Sevens.” economy,” she said, taking a break chummy front row at donna Karan’s show on crowds soon abated. Rose McGowan snuck Backstage, Miele seemed tickled from chatting with her seatmates. Monday afternoon. “Oh, give me a double in after everyone was seated, rolling by the attention the DJs were getting. “It creates hundreds of thousands of kiss,” Emmy Rossum smirked at Patrick her eyes and showing off a variety of Surrounded by a large crowd, he gave jobs, it generates billions of dollars demarchelier, who obliged. “Look at this exaggerated faces as she perched next to interviews to a Brazilian TV reporter of revenue. It’s something that really dress — the back of this dress,” Rossum Rossum and Greene. “Love that leopard- and the Long Island Exchange, as well- is still growing in a tough economic enthused of her dark violet jersey Donna print coat,” she said afterward. “Oh and wishers vied for his attention. time, so I wanted to show my support, Karan number. the sequins.” — ALESSAndRA COdInhA — ShAROn EdELSOn not only for the designers but for the fashion community as well.” hOnORS nIGhT: Mindy Grossman, chief The 10 a.m. show would be her only executive officer of HSN Inc., and stop at fashion week. Gina Sanders, president and ceo of “I love Carolina’s history in terms Fairchild Fashion Media, parent of of dressing First Ladies, being part WWD, will be honored March 13 at the of our culture over the last several 37th annual March of Dimes Beauty decades,” Gillibrand said. “I think it’s Ball. Both are being recognized for important to come show my support innovative leadership: Grossman will for her specifically, and I personally For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. receive the Retailer of the Year Award really admire her designs. They’re on behalf of HSN, while Sanders will ones that I can definitely wear.” receive the Beautiful Apple Award. So, was the senator in one of The event, which will be held at Herrera’s designs at the moment? Cipriani 42nd Street in Manhattan, “No,” she laughed. “Tahari.” will be emceed by deborah norville. Democracy in action. Auctioneer CK Swett of Phillips de Pury — MATThEW LYnCh COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE & Co. will host a live auction, called SALES REPS Fund the Mission. Could After two decades as the global leader — BELISA SILVA ASIA MAJOR: Christopher Zanardi- in outdoor multifunctional headwear, Landi be heading back to Louis Vuitton? Buff® is ushering in 2012 with the U.S. launch of Urban Buff® a collec- According to market sources, the tion of head scarves and neckwear for veteran of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis the stylish urbanite. Prices range from $39 to $195. Seeking established reps Vuitton is to succeed Pietro Beccari as 65 Bleecker Street SOHO/NOHO/Greenwich Village with specialty and better department Vuitton’s Paris-based executive vice store relationships in all key U.S. urban markets. Please visit booth president. Beccari, as reported, is 73931 at Magic or send resumes to: moving to Rome to become president Join our New Tenant [email protected]. and chief executive officer of Fendi. COUNCIL FOR FASHION DESIGNERS OF AMERICA Vuitton officials had no comment. Last October, J. Crew Group said at The Landmark Bayard-Condict Building Zanardi-Landi would become its senior vice president of Asian Operations. Entire 9,310 sq. ft. Penthouse Available. However, it is understood LVMH Beautiful Open Plan installation with 16’ x 28’ Skylight prevailed with its counter offer. Zanardi- Landi worked for the past 10 years at Roof Rights can be made available Designer/Stylist Betsy & Adam is looking for new talent ! LVMH, most recently as president of Designer/Stylist Wanted Call Owner: (212) 685-1514 Ladies Dressy Evenings Gowns China for Vuitton. Prior to LVMH, he E-mail resume to: [email protected] Julianne Moore was with L’Oréal and Richemont Group, also in roles overseeing Asian markets. all photos by steve eichner all photos by — MILES SOChA CALVIn AT ThEORY: So what was Calvin Klein doing in the front row at the RETAIL FOR ROY: Richard dickson, Showrooms & Lofts Theyskens’ Theory show Monday president and chief executive officer BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail afternoon? “Olivier [Theyskens] is a of branded businesses at The Jones ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 personal friend for years,” explained Group Inc., said that freestanding Klein. “He asked me if I wanted to retail stores could be in Rachel Roy’s FABRICS PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Great selection of reupholstery, drap- PRODUCTIONS come. Andrew [Rosen, ceo of Theory] and future. “We do have some retail ATTENTION ery & slipcover fabrics. Approx 3000 Full service shop to the trade. I go back such a long time, through plans for Rachel,” said Dickson, yd lot. All different. Prints, florals, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS stripes, plaids, solids & textures. 3-15 yd his father,” said Klein, referring to at the Rachel Roy presentation at cuts. Email: [email protected] the late Carl Rosen, chairman and ceo Avery Fisher Hall. He said he hasn’t In observance of of Puritan Fashions, who launched admitted that publicly before and the Presidents’ Day Holiday, Calvin Klein Jeans. “He’s like family.” stores could open within the next year. WWD will not publish on Julianne Moore was also in Meantime, Roy is having success with Monday, February 20th. attendance, though she wasn’t her designer collection in stores such Fairchild offices also too talkative. A show runner shot as Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and will be closed that day. down any questions as the actress Bloomingdale’s, said Dickson. — L.L. Deadline for issue of Tuesday, was escorted backstage before the 2/21will be proceedings. — LISA LOCKWOOd BEAM ME UP, YOhJI: As always, there was Friday, 2/17 at 12noon ET. a serious standing-room-only crowd nARCISO AddS On: narciso Rodriguez will at Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 show Sunday, Thank you for your cooperation. launch an official accessories collection but the front row was noteworthy, at his Tuesday runway show. While too. Actors Idris Elba, Anton Yelchin, he’s shown a few shoes in past seasons, Isabel Lucas, Clemens Schick and Martina they haven’t gone into production since Codecasa were on hand. The actress (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] 2007. The fall lineup will feature seven and TV personality known in Japan shoe styles and eight handbags, done as Marie was in from Asia, as was

w14a023a;9.indd 23 2/13/12 9:22 PM 02132012212259 Another reason to love The Fabric of Our Lives®

Kate Bosworth in Nina Ricci

You know that Kate Bosworth has style. But you probably didn’t know she can sing. She can and does in one of the latest commercials from Cotton Incorporated. Along with indie pop singer Zooey Deschanel, Kate shows young shoppers everywhere how The Fabric of Our Lives is the fabric of her life.

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