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5th AVE AT 54th ST shop online diesel.com S NEW YORK TEXTILES: FASHION WEEK: NEWS: Michelle The trends for 3FWJFXTPG 0CBNBEFTJHOFS spring 2011 at Maria Pinto to $BSPMJOB)FSSFSB Première close, page 24. 5IPN#SPXOF Vision, page 22. Zac Posen and more, BTXFMMBT'BTIJPO Scoops, pages 10 to 20. SECTION II: collections/fall ’10 WWDMagic NEW 8PNFOT8FBS%BJMZt5IF3FUBJMFST%BJMZ/FXTQBQFSt'FCSVBSZ t YORK WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Collar Me Beautiful NEW YORK — Donna Karan celebrated her 25th year at her house with a chic, urbane fall collection, which was mostly black. Highlights included great furs and terriﬁc coats. Here, one striking example in a play of fur and leather textures with a bold collar, a leading motif in the collection. For more on the shows, see pages 10 to 20.

A New Material Girl: Madonna Said in Talks To Launch Fashion Line By David Lipke */5)&(308*/(-07&"''"*3 CFUXFFODFMFCSJUZBOEGBTIJPO POFPGUIF CJHHFTUOBNFTPVUUIFSFJTDMPTFUPHFUUJOHJOUP the groove: Madonna. 5IFQPQJDPOJTJOUBMLTUPMBVODIB DPOUFNQPSBSZXPNFOTDPMMFDUJPOXJUI BHSPVQPGMJDFOTFFTUIBUXPVMECFTPME FYDMVTJWFMZBU.BDZT BDDPSEJOHUPTPVSDFT 5IFNFSDIBOEJTFXPVMEJODMVEFBQQBSFM BDDFTTPSJFT JOUJNBUFTBOEGPPUXFBS-BCFM OBNFTVOEFSTFSJPVTDPOTJEFSBUJPOGPSUIF QSPEVDUMJOFTJODMVEF.BUFSJBM(JSMGPSUIF BQQBSFMBOE5SVUIPS%BSFGPSUIFMJOHFSJFBOE VOEFSXFBS i5SVUIPS%BSFwXBTUIFUJUMFPGBGJMN XIJDIEPDVNFOUFE.BEPOOBTHSPVOECSFBLJOH #MPOEF"NCJUJPOXPSMEXJEFDPODFSUUPVS See Madonna, Page 4 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM Scorsese Directs Chanel Scent Campaign By Julie Naughton Martin Scorsese, who is one of the best, if not WWDTUESDAY the best movie director alive today, is a privilege ACADEMY AWARD-WINNING DIRECTOR Chanel has been seeking for quite some time. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Martin Scorsese has taken a break from his “What was needed was the appropriate proj- FASHION usual tough-guy films to direct the TV commer- ect — i.e., the launch of Chanel’s new men’s fra- The New York collections rolled on with shows cial for Chanel’s next men’s fragrance. grance,” D’Avack said. “There is such an obvious S 10 The campaign, which will begin running glob- connection between the identity of the fragrance from Donna Karan, Zac Posen, Thom Browne, ally in September, features French actor Gaspard and the cinematic world of Martin Scorsese that Betsey Johnson and Carolina Herrera. Ulliel, who is the face of the partnership came to be,” GENERAL the new fragrance and will he said without elaboration. be featured in all advertis- Past cinematic Chanel 1 Madonna is in talks to launch a contemporary ing for the scent. Andrea pairings have included Nicole women’s collection that would be sold exclusively D’Avack, president of Kidman and Baz Luhrmann at Macy’s. Chanel Fragrance and and Audrey Tatou and Jean- 22 TEXTILES: There was a disparate focus on Beauté, declined to reveal Pierre Jeunet, both for Chanel heritage and price as a way to wow customers details about the scent, in- No.5 at different times. among the fabric firms at Première Vision. cluding its name. “Chanel works with movie The ads were shot ear- directors because they bring 24 Despite the support Maria Pinto received from lier this winter, D’Avack Martin Scorsese depth, emotion and what we call Michelle Obama, it wasn’t enough to sustain said on Monday. “The ads with Gaspard Ulliel. in French ‘a supplement of soul,’ her Chicago-based designer business. have been shot in New or an added dimension,” said J. Crew has signed a lease for its fourth men’s York, the city which is so 24 store in the New York area, on Madison Avenue, inherently part of Martin and is seeking more units outside the city. Scorsese’s cinemato- BEAUTY BEAT graphic vocabulary,” he said. D’Avack, pointing to films such as “Taxi Driver,” 26 Sears Holdings Corp. has named Tara Poseley, This confirms a report that ran in WWD on “Raging Bull,” and “Goodfellas” as examples of former president of Bebe Sport, as president Jan. 12. Scorsese’s vision. “In the case of Martin Scorsese, of Kmart Apparel for in-store and online. “Chanel has a tradition several decades long we knew we would definitely have a man’s world Chip & Pepper, a pioneering brand in premium of working with the most prominent movie direc- full of complexity that is also adrenaline-driven, 27 denim, is switching to a licensed business tors in the world,” D’Avack said. “To work with and of course, amazing images.” model with lower price points for fall. EYE At a time when much in the fashion industry feels 6 uncertain, Diane von Furstenberg’s fashion week Profit and Sales Down at L’Oréal after party has remained a constant. PARIS — L’Oréal’s net profits declined and its 2008, L’Oréal’s sales dipped 3.5 percent to 4.47 Thom Browne MAGIC is included as a Section II in this issue. sales dipped slightly in 2009. Meanwhile, the billion euros, or $6.6 billion. Classified Advertisements...... 27 French beauty giant said it is poised to return to The company’s total cosmetics business declined TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS growth this year. 4 percent to 4.08 billion euros, or $6.02 billion. [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. L’Oréal posted net profits of 1.79 billion euros, Within that, the professional products divisions’ WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 or $2.5 billion, in the 12 months ended Dec. 31, revenues fell 6.7 percent to 581.6 million euros, or FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one down 8 percent on the same prior-year period. $859.1 million. Sales from consumer products were additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, Its operating profits decreased 5.4 percent down 0.2 percent to 2.07 billion euros, or $3.1 bil- and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance to 2.58 billion euros, or $3.59 billion. L’Oréal’s lion. The luxury products division posted revenues Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. 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You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production in 2009 to 17.47 billion euros, or $24.37 billion. On cent to 1.46 billion euros, or $2.15 billion. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, a like-for-like basis, sales fell 1.1 percent. Also in the fourth quarter, The Body Shop please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Dollar figures are converted at average ex- registered sales of 240.9 million euros, or $355.8 Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. 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FACTORING Agon, the company’s chief ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE FINANCING executive officer, who highlighted L’Oréal’s innovation, LETTERS OF CREDIT dynamism in the consumer PURCHASE ORDER FINANCING products division, the inclu- sion into of a large number of new hair salons and fast TODAY ON (212) 244-2600 growth in new markets. “We have also devoted the 225 W 35TH STREET, NY, NY 10001 year to preparing for the future with three major strategic changes: the broadening of the WWD 7LP0RRUH -HIIUH\.DSHOPDQ &KULVWLQD0DOOHRV consumer base with the target *DU\:DVVQHU of winning a billion new con- .COM sumers, a thorough transfor- mation of the company to make Continuing coverage (213) 955-9010 it stronger and more flexible s and, finally, a determined in- of New York Fashion Week, 110 E. 9TH STREET, SUITE A1168 crease of investments in R&D including reviews, full runs LOS ANGELES, CA 90079 and advertising and promotion to accelerate growth,” contin- of show, front-row and ued Agon. “Overall, L’Oréal has backstage coverage, %ULWWDQ\6WDSHOPDQQ emerged from 2009 stronger scoops and live tweeting and has prepared itself well from the tents for a return to sales and results growth in 2010.” Backstage at Carolina Herrera. s More images

— Jennifer Weil ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY of Première Vision Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Go backstage with her at www.maybellinelovesfashion.com 4 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM

Madonna in …2009… …1985… …1990… 1987… ON/GETTY IMAGES; 1984 BY DAVID MCGOUGH/DMI/GETTY IMAGES; BLUE DRESS IN 2009 BY KRISTEN SOMODY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY MCGOUGH/DMI/GETTY DRESSON/GETTY DAVID IMAGES; BLUE IN 2009 BY IMAGES; 1984 BY Madonna Said in Talks to Start Line at Macy’s Continued from page one bles in the sportswear category, recently signing a license with Jones Apparel Group Madonna’s longtime publicist, Liz Rosenberg, did not return calls Monday seeking Inc. for a jeanswear collection. Jennifer Lopez was never able to build a sustainable comment. A Macy’s spokesman also declined comment. business with Sweetface and JLO; Eve repeatedly relaunched her Fetish brand only Iconix Brand Group Inc. is involved in the negotiations for the venture, according to have it lapse; Paris and Nicky Hilton’s fashion collections petered out, and lines to sources, and Madonna has made visits to the company’s New York offices. Iconix from the likes of Whitney Port quickly fizzled. is a brand management firm, which owns and licenses 21 brands, including Candie’s, Madonna is Madonna, however, and she remains one of the world’s most recog- Bongo, Rampage, London Fog, Rocawear, Danskin and Badgley Mischka. The brands nizable stars. The 51-year-old’s previous forays into the fashion business have been ring up $10 billion in retail sales in total, according to the company. numerous and memorable. She currently appears in the Dolce & Gabbana spring An Iconix spokeswoman declined to confirm or deny a potential Madonna deal. advertising campaign, and has previously appeared in ads for Louis Vuitton, Versace “Iconix has no comment on this story,” she said. and Gap. Madonna walked the runway topless However, sources said a deal is close to for Jean-Paul Gaultier in 1992 and has cropped being signed. Label names under serious consideration for the up in the front row of shows on occasion, includ- Iconix has experience working with pop su- ing Marc Jacobs last season. perstars, having re-signed Britney Spears last product lines include Material Girl for the apparel In spring 2007, Madonna created a co-brand- month to a second year representing the Candie’s ed women’s collection with H&M, under the M brand, which is sold exclusively at Kohl’s. and Truth or Dare for the lingerie and underwear. by Madonna label. “Madonna has an impressive If a Madonna-Iconix deal with Macy’s does feel for fashion and trends. She was extraordi- come to fruition, it would be the latest in a string of recent tie-ups between celebrities narily style conscious, passionate and was involved in even the smallest details of and fashion brands. Sarah Jessica Parker has invested in Halston and been named every design,” said Margareta van den Bosch, head of H&M design at that time. its chief creative officer and president; Lindsay Lohan is artistic adviser at Ungaro, She clearly is eager to branch out from performing, with reports that she may write and Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé Knowles, Jay-Z, Gwen Stefani and Mary-Kate and and direct a film about the romance between Wallis Simpson and Edward, the Prince of Ashley Olsen have prominent fashion lines of their own. Knowles also just launched Wales, called “W.E.” She also is said to be preparing a worldwide tour for later this year. a fragrance of her own, Heat, with Coty Inc., which is expected to generate revenues The singer is known to demand total creative control over her projects, which is of more than $100 million worldwide in its first year. one of the reasons she has yet to launch a fragrance, even though she has tried to do so Yet the misses in the celebrity fashion game far outnumber the hits. Jessica for more than a decade. Beauty companies have been reluctant to meet her financial BARRY KING/LIAIS STEVE EICHNER; 1999 BY IN 2009 AND 2008 BY JIM SMEAL/WIREIMAGE; WITH LOURDES HS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES; 1990 BY Simpson has a successful footwear collection with Camuto Group, but has had trou- demands, while many question whether her appeal remains as strong as it once was.

…2008… …1999… …1984… 2009 BY JOHN PARRA/WIREIMAGE; 1985 BY JIM STEINFELDT/MICHAEL OC 1985 BY JOHN PARRA/WIREIMAGE; 2009 BY

…2009, with daughter Lourdes… …and 2009. 1987 PHOTO BY MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES/GETTY IMAGES; BLACK1987 PHOTO BY LACE IN The New York Times Style Magazine photo by Raymond Meier Raymond photo by

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Chloë Diane von Sevigny X-Factor Furstenberg AT A TIME WHEN MUCH IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY FEELS uncertain, Diane von Furstenberg’s fashion week after party remains a constant. Indochine will always cater. An eclectic crowd of artists (Francesco Clemente, Anh Duong), power players (hubby Barry Diller, former French first lady Cécilia Attias) and fashion folk (Margherita Missoni, Coco Brandolini, Amanda Brooks) will always be in attendance. And the designer’s three grandchildren and their pals will always have the run of the place. Sunday night’s affair at von Furstenberg’s Meatpacking District studio was no different. The way von Furstenberg tells it, her show days always tend to have such a “Groundhog Day” quality to them. “I have a gold coin that’s good luck that my father gave me, so I put that in my shoe. And I do yoga and all these things, and then it’s the show and then it’s like a letdown and then there’s the party for the employees and then there’s this party,” she said. Further downtown at White Slab Palace, Barneys New York celebrated its launch of the Richard Chai Love collection with Phillip Lim, Poppy Delevigne and Harley Viera- Newton and Magnus Berger, who took turns DJing. From there, some guests hit up the West Side Gentleman’s Club where The Smile, new erotic publication Jacques Magazine and Evisu hosted a “Valentine’s Evening to Remember” that more than lived up to its name. Inside the club, G-string-clad (and, in some cases, fully naked) girls danced on stage, doing acrobatic tricks on poles and even letting some audience members join in on the fun. Jared Leto, Nate Lowman and Mary-Kate Olsen took in the show, and Justin Theroux snapped away with his own camera. Naturally, this was a fashion audience. “Those look like Fendi’s spring shoes,” said one woman of the girls’ vertiginous footwear. A less scantily clad, but equally style-conscious group including Chloë Sevigny, Jefferson Hack, Dasha Zhukova, Tallulah Harlech and Leelee Sobieski and Adam Kimmel gathered at Nur Khan and Paul Sevigny’s new restaurant, Kenmare, for the Purple magazine dinner. Poppy Daphne Guinness’ late arrival, on the arm of David LaChapelle and with a cane-hobbled Delevigne André Balazs in tow, made for the evening’s most dramatic entrance, dressed as she in Topshop. was in a mesh face veil, intricately embellished bodice and dress and a feathery accessory whose function was indeterminate. It turned out her outﬁt was an homage to Alexander McQueen. “This, Lee gave me,” Guinness said of her gold bodice. “And this looked all right underneath, and these I made. Then I put on three necklaces and a veil. I have no idea [what I’m wearing]. And I’m not being coy.” Post-dinner, Purple’s Olivier Zahm and his crew continued on to the rooftop at the Gramercy Park Hotel. Downstairs, as part of Kahn’s Rose Bar sessions, Axl Jefferson Hack with Rose played Guns N’ Roses hits for a crush of fans including Caroline Winberg, Daphne Guinness in Yigal Azrouël, Josh Lucas and Adrien Grenier. “The people shoving the hardest are the Alexander McQueen. skinniest models,” said one cramped partygoer. “They just elbow you.” For more, see WWD.com. Anh Duong

Richard Chai and Gaia Repossi, Olympia Olivier Zahm, Tallulah Harlech Alana Zimmer Scarry and Dasha Zhukova. and Terry Richardson. RICHARD CHAI LOVE PARTY PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND; GUINNESS, SEVIGNY AND KARAN BY STEPHANE FEUGERE; ALL OTHERS STEVE EICHNER LEXIE MORELAND; GUINNESS, BY BY PHOTOS BY SEVIGNY AND KARAN PARTY RICHARD CHAI LOVE

Miguel and Olympia Baez with mom Carolina Herrera Jr. and Carolina GRAND MOTHERS Lansing with mom FASHION SHOW OR FAMILY REUNION? RECENTLY, FRONT ROWS Patricia Lansing. have been ﬁlled with not only designers’ children, but grandchildren as well. At Diane von Furstenberg, Talita and Tassilo von Furstenberg joined dad Alex and cousin Antonia Steinberg (mom is Tatiana von Furstenberg) in congratulating their fashionable grandmother. At Carolina Herrera’s show, alongside social ﬁxtures Lee Radziwill, Tory Burch and Fran Lebowitz were Carolina Herrera Jr.’s offspring, Olympia and Miguel Baez, and Patricia Lansing’s daughter Carolina Lansing. And Donna Karan took her bow after DKNY on Sunday with grandchildren Sebastian and Stefania de Felice in tow. But Stefania wasn’t available for a command performance at the Donna Karan show the next day. “She’s rock climbing at Chelsea Piers,” said mom Gabby Karan de Felice. “It was the show or the playdate.” Fashion has its place.

Donna Karan with grandchildren Talita and Tassilo von Furstenberg, Natalia Vodianova’s Sebastian and Stefania de Felice. son Lucas Portman and Antonia Steinberg.

10 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 collections/fall NEW ’10 Donna-mite YORK Donna Karan: Twenty-five years ago there were no millions, no empire, no Urban Zen (beyond a state of mind), no gorgeous grandchildren to make a charming runway show all the more so. But there was an idea, one fo- mented during a young woman’s apprenticeship with Anne Klein and subsequent creative partnership with Louis Dell’Olio, and crystallized as she thought about her own wardrobe needs and those of the women she knew and admired. And there was New York. Or, as Donna Karan wrote in her program notes, “We started with a city, a bodysuit, a pair of tights and the power of a woman.” A quarter century later, Karan has traveled the globe, em- braced spiritualism and taken up humanitarian causes, all influencing her fashion work significantly. Yet while these forces have at times made for fascinating and complicated digressions, ultimately they have enhanced, rather than sto- len from, that original dedication to addressing the concrete wardrobe needs of the urban woman. Does the formula still work? Just take a look at Demi Moore, Brooke Shields or any other of the multigenerational lineup of fans, friends and employees who were working the clothes at the designer’s show on Monday. Sprung from a formula, yes, but they’re clothes that a woman can make her own. Despite a few forays into vibrant color, Karan called her fall collection “Forever Black,” but it could have been “Forever Chic.” She worked the romantic end of her range in sculptural, rounded shapes, whether in a dress with a stretch torso and tiered skirt, another with a gently belled skirt, or the flourish of ample collars, which skewed ei- ther poetic or Pierrot. And in a strong coat season, Karan’s were standouts, such as a zip-up hourglass tweed, and a remarkable number in shearling lace. Throughout, Karan played with textures, layering matte against shine, or open knits over sleek wool stretch. Evening was sedate in a way, the embroideries and dé- gradés Karan loves giving way to less fussy fabrics that put the emphasis squarely on cut — and on the body. But then, that’s where it all began. And the approach couldn’t feel more modern or more right for now. Congratulations, Donna. Here’s to the next 25. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

Demi Moore

ALL ABOUT DONNA: Demi Moore set off a ﬂashbulb frenzy at Donna Karan’s show on Monday. As she took her front-row perch alongside Brooke Shields, Susan Sarandon and Marisa Berenson, the onetime Donna Karan spokeswoman (Moore appeared in ads for the brand in 1996 with her then- hubby Bruce Willis), discussed the appeal of her friend’s aesthetic. “Donna’s always looked to take fabrics and, in a way, be liberating and embracing of our lifestyles as independent women out in the world transitioning from casual to evening. I love that,” said Moore. It would seem, however, that the actress’ polished and sexy image would be at odds with Karan’s earth-mother sensibility. “But I think at the same time,” said Moore, “it’s always held a sensuous integrity.” And, she added in reference to the purple body- conscious velvet dress she was sporting, “it’s really comfortable.”

MAC, RODARTE TEAM UP FOR COLOR: MAC Cosmetics and Rodarte will collaborate in the fall to produce a limited edition color cosmetics collection. Due in September, the line is inspired by Rodarte’s fall 2010 show and is expected to be available in all MAC doors globally. MAC has provided makeup artistry support to Rodarte’s runway shows since 2006, including today’s show.

FASHION SCAN: Instead of a traditional show, Norma Kamali is mixing up all three of her lines — her signature OMO, the midprice collection she sells on eBay and her line for Wal-Mart — in a presentation with Scanlife at her 56th Street store in New York that is ongoing and open to the public. Visitors don’t have to ask a salesperson to find out how to wear, say, the $99 striped jersey all- in-one. Instead, they can download the Scanlife iPhone app and scan a bar code with their phone to trigger a video about the style in front of them. Some of the scans will randomly award prizes of free clothes. “The shopping experience is so different now,” said the designer, who was decked out in her Wal-Mart line. “Scanlife gives us another dimension.” Kamali’s signature OMO collection included her vast swimwear line where figure-flattering retro shapes mingled with sexy cutouts in solids, some trimmed with safety pins, studs or buttons, as well as a leopard print and stripes with matching cover-ups. For the designer’s ready-to-wear pieces there were variations of the famous sleeping bag coat, body- skimming dresses, convertible tops and leggings all available in the pricier OMO, the contemporary Norma Kamali for eBay as well as the mass market Norma Kamali for Wal-Mart collections. “It’s about offering something for everybody, whatever their budget,” she noted, “and with the eBay collection, I’m essentially wholesaling to the public and that allowed For full runs of show, see WWD.com. me to bring the manufacturing for that and OMO domestic, which is great.”

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, STEVE EICHNER AND KYLE ERICKSEN STEVE EICHNER AND KYLE JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY For more Fashion Scoops, see page 20 12 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010

Carolina Herrera Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 13 WWD.COM

Zac Posen Thom Browne collections/fall NEW ’10 YORK

Zac Posen

Carolina Herrera: If there is such a thing as a self-fulfilling prophecy, then Carolina Herrera is doing more than her part to bring back the good old days of flush. The collection Herrera showed on Monday said ta-ta to artsiness while screaming money in the cleverest of manners — eschewing all discretion while retaining a rock-solid highbrow attitude. The overt embrace of opulence felt oddly comforting, and if some looks crossed into the land of too much, most were quite beautiful. Throughout, Herrera worked the flamboyant side of lady. Along the way she invoked numerous archetypal trappings of patrician indulgence — wide-brimmed hats, ample shimmer and fur for days. She opened with gusto: an ultrachic shirt-and-pants combo of the sort she herself often wears, topped off with a demonstrative little fur, a sable jacket emblazoned in front with a bold brush print. In fact, trousers-with-swagger were one of the collection’s keys, showing up variously in a red tweed suit as well as more sportif combinations. With their ample proportions, these made a smart counterpoint to Herrera’s curvy dresses. Invariably, these bore notice-me touches, whether in the draped folds of a Prince of Wales sheath or the sable rim that outlined the neckline of a puffed-sleeve embroidered mosaic dress divine in its decadence. Herrera used similarly lavish doses of fur on the collars of her impressive jackets and coats. Perhaps ironically, her one nod to discretion came via a print that featured multiple photos of herself — the images were almost imperceptibly tiny, and the fabric used for a blouse under a dashing suit and coat. Evening was similarly lavish. Here, if a wayward pair — one gown seemingly crafted from recycled Christmas ribbons; another, a tropical paradise print — seemed to have wandered in from somewhere else, Herrera’s lovely assortment of steely blue and gray gowns more than recovered the tone of elegant opulence.

Zac Posen: Having found his business in a well-documented state of flux, Zac Posen is clearly making an effort to adjust to a market less tolerant of the showmanship for which he’s previously been known. The collection he showed Monday morning was pleasantly stripped down with an emphasis on structure, clean tailoring and a subtle, earthy palette. Day clothes made a case for smart sportswear, as seen in the precise lines of a techy satin coat worn with a simple blouse and lean, high-waisted tuxedo trousers. Also key to the collection were short dresses decorated with sharp architectural details, such as corsetry effects and linear seams at the waist. A sleek-but-sturdy gray wool bodice was fused in charming counterpoint to a blush silk skater skirt. As for cocktail hour, Posen worked pretty pink florals, fitted and flared into organza skirts, and more structured, strapless styles, some layered over unnecessary jersey turtlenecks. Notably absent this season were Posen’s grand gowns, which don’t seem to fit with his newfound restraint.

Thom Browne: With a cash infusion from Cross Company of Japan, Browne has returned to form as a showman. He created a hushed and nervous atmosphere in the opulent salons of the Park Avenue Armory. Browne became famous for shrunken clothing, but now the scale of his designs is as apt to be hulking. In fact, the tailoring covered all possible dimensions — short, long, wide, tight, etc. Cropped trousers were wide, varsity jackets elongated, a gym bag laughably commodious. Regardless of its dimensions, every piece was dripping in Browne’s signature details, which now include chunky plastic zippers, a TB logo and a red, white and blue braid. But the most outrageous part? It’s a toss-up between the use of raccoon tails as decorative fringe, or the gender- bending dresses, muffs and pink gloves. Or have it both

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY ways — a pillbox hat with a tail. 14 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM

Betsey Johnson collections/fall NEW ’10 YORK

Thakoon

Richard Chai Thakoon: A few days before his show, Thakoon Panichgul noted the collection began with “this feral idea.” He tossed out another related buzzword: “primitive.” On other runways, those two notions might converge into a high-voltage outing of aggression and rawness. Here, you can check the fierceness at the door. Filtered through Panichgul’s romanticism, the collection was beautifully electrifying in its restraint, offering one of the more refreshing takes on this season’s emerging bestial trend. Sure, there was fur aplenty — on sleeves, lining hoods, even spilling out from shoes — but upon closer inspection, one saw flickers of crochet lace, for instance, on a patchwork jacket of fox, mink and raccoon. Meanwhile animal prints came as abstract tiger patterns or leopard burnouts in velvet. Panichgul also worked a subtle bohemian motif, rendered, too, with a feminine touch. (“Not typical hippie,” he said.) That meant gray scarf-print chiffon frocks edged in tiny pom-poms or fringe. But then another inspiration crept in: Jean Paul Gaultier’s 1985 ballet costumes for Régine Chopinot, which explains those topiary-esque rufﬂe dresses. In the end, the collection boiled down to consummately wearable clothes: terriﬁc coats and jackets, comfy long john leggings and the prettiest of draped blouses, skirts and dresses.

Betsey Johnson: Ooh-eee, it’s a Wild West sort of season in Betseyville, and her randy cast of characters was along for the ride. A gun-toting Kelly Osbourne opened the show, shaking her bustle coat down the hay-strewn runway, followed by “gamblers” in playing card-print cardigans, “farmhands” in sweeping calico prairie dresses, “robbers” in striped sheaths, and even a fully gowned “queen” toting a sign that read, “Long Live McQueen.” So by the time the cartwheel was over, it was clear the West was won.

Richard Chai: In his men’s wear collection, Chai dropped the sporty volumes he excelled at for the past year and limited his youthful proportion play to variations of length, as in a long thin cardigan. The newly straight and lean silhouettes made the fabrics seem a bit plain, except for pieces that were smudged with black paint and shirts that came in two-plaid combinations, with one block stacked Thakoon above the other. Lightweight fabrics

allowed for liberal and creative layering. JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 15 collections/fall WWD.COM

’10 Sophia NEW Kokosalaki YORK

Sophia Kokosalaki’s Denim Gold Rush STRAIGHT OFF A FLIGHT FROM London at 7 p.m. last Thursday, Moncler Grenoble Sophia Kokosalaki presides over the 7th floor of Diesel’s New York headquarters on West 19th Street. Zero + Zero + Even after a six-hour flight and Maria Maria a full day’s work, Kokosalaki is Cornejo Cornejo dressed in a long black dress and gold jewelry, a look she admits devi- ates from her typical work attire. “Just wait until tomorrow, when I’m back on the floor in my jeans,” she says. Denim is a genre she’s all the more familiar with since taking the reins at Diesel Black Gold, the high- end contemporary arm of Diesel, in July. Kokosalaki’s Black Gold debut on Feb. 16 marks not only her first stab at denim, but also a New York show, a prospect the designer finds exciting. “I’ve shown in Milan, Paris, London,” she says. “Now I can say we’ve done it all.” Those familiar with Kokosalaki’s own collection, launched in 1999 and known for its elaborate swirled and pleated constructions, might think casual denim an odd fit for the Greek-born, London-based designer, who shows in Paris. But the Black Gold gig came in tandem with Kokosalaki’s reacquiring of her collection from Diesel chairman Renzo Rosso, who purchased her line three years ago for his Only the Brave holdings portfolio. “We’ve found a solution that made us both happy,” says Kokosalaki of the deal. “And Renzo knows everything about denim. I’d be a fool not to try this.” Kokosalaki calls her approach to Black Gold, which has been shown in New York under Wilbert Das since February 2008, “honest.” By that she means staying true to the line’s urban, rock ’n’ roll credo. “It’s what girls want to wear Rebecca Taylor on the street,” says Kokosalaki,

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, TODD MATARAZZO AND ROBERT MITRA AND ROBERT GIANNONI, TODD MATARAZZO GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY adding a prime influence was the streetwear in her East London Moncler Grenoble: Only the winter outerwear powerhouse upbringing for this haberdashery theme and added her own neighborhood “where the cool Moncler could attire 100 models to withstand the cold architectural tweaks — twisted tartan skirts, jumpsuits with people go out, overstyled in a full wind coming off the Hudson on a frigid night, and it did so half a lapel — in an urban, take-no-prisoners vibe. As for the outfit to get a sandwich.” Leather dramatically. The firm, unveiling Grenoble, its first collection more feminine, draped moments, which were inspired by tribal and distressed looks are key to in New York, built a scaffold structure at Chelsea Piers, and Africana, they paled next to so strong (and ultracool) a men’s the collection, but done with her president and creative director Remo Ruffini turned his models wear statement. Things got especially tricky with the slashed signature embroideries and fabric into chic warriors from a future Ice Age. The label’s trademark leather add-ons here; one kept wanting the designer to continue manipulations that require labor- quilted nylon pieces were present, but didn’t dominate the with the tailoring discourse. intensive techniques. “The easy lineup, which leaned more toward a mix of fitted, city-ready In her men’s wear lineup, Cornejo delivered an exciting rarity way is to just break some thread,” pieces in Shetland wools with performance pieces in techy — a lineup with the same concepts and quality of thought as her she says, holding a distressed style fabrics. But Ruffini looked back as much as forward. Named women’s counterpart. She kept it masculine with substantial that fuses three layers of yarn to after the French village where Moncler was founded in 1952, fabrics and strong shoulders, even in knitwear. Trouser pleats achieve an authentic, worn-in the lineup included several pieces — like full, calf-length ski were folded in toward the midline, a chic twist. And outer layers, look, a technique she perfected skirts and knee-length shorts in traditional gray flannel — that when left open, took on intriguing silhouettes and cutaway lines. with a denim expert from Japan. might have worked on the slopes in the mid-20th century, as well. “It’s like you got it from a festival The men’s collection, priced between Moncler’s main line Rebecca Taylor: Inspired by a mixture of Seventies Parisian chic 50 years ago.” and its designer collections, consisted of down skiwear in and an urban New York City girl, Rebecca Taylor reworked her As for Kokosalaki’s personal fashionable proportions and dark fabrics that work for the city. sweet side with a subtle edge. Men’s wear-inspired tailored taste, right now she’s into “neat tweed suits were paired with delicate blouses, and there were denim, old school,” she says. “But Zero + Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo’s invitation said it all: her vintage-inspired faux fur animal-pattern coats, a nod to military that’s really recently, like in the self-photographed shadow that set the tone for the boy-girl with cozy outerwear and plenty of pretty ruffles on everything past two weeks. It might change in dialogue. “I liked it because it looks like a rather masculine from knits to dresses. Feminine, as always, but Taylor kept it another two weeks.” figure,” Cornejo said. The designer mined much of her English fresh with plenty of layering to make it look cool and effortless. — Jessica Iredale 16 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010

Hervé Léger Jill Stuart Michael Bastian Tracy Reese

Araks

Hervé Léger: There’s no need to wonder what Lubov and Max Azria will serve silhouettes. No bells and whistles, but timeless pieces that up on the Hervé Léger runway — the perennial answer: bandage dresses should fly out of the stores. — but the point of intrigue is the myriad ways the husband-and-wife team can work the theme. This time, show notes said, it was “the speed of street Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese gave her girl an edge this season, athleticism.” So those crisscross lacing motifs in the first half allude to doing her up in skinny stirrup pants, suede jeans and sneaker laces, not bondage. The designers folded in a futuristic streak as fringed jackets. Body-conscious bustier tops and ruched well, with enamel gridlike tiles channeling sci-fi space odyssey offering dresses spliced with lace added to the rock ’n’ roll some interesting textures. As for the light ruffle moments, cascading in attitude. But for every toughened-up effect, there was layers across hips, they provided a nice break from the monotony of body- something equally sweet, such as a ruffled lace skirt con dresses. and dress or a wholesome plaid alpaca coat. And while this street vibe is new for Reese, Malandrino: Catherine Malandrino is feeling fierce for fall. it’s a trend that’s been around for a while. Though she noted her inspiration was “a vision of earth as collections/fall seen from above,” the collection she served up was furry, Michael Bastian: At first Michael Bastian feral and au savage. So ditch any thoughts about the tony channeled British skinhead style, Ladies Who Lunch foxes and minks; Malandrino let loose ’10 which was shocking enough, coming with raw goat hair — dramatically trimming collars and from the crown prince of American prep, cuffs or allover on thick, bushy wraps. Animal prints? but the show quickly returned to the familiar turf She had them in spades, including more figural takes, of eclectic American sportswear. At one point as in the velvet coat with croc-embossed sleeves. The NEW came a kinky barrister from an era long past. designer kept the silhouettes cozy — cocoon shapes Bastian must be itching to expand his vernacular, prevailed — and, for cocktail hour, continued to explore but despite some confusing missteps, the collection last-season’s drape motif in the blouson dresses and plissé retained what people love about it: color, vitality and gowns. While one could do without the slouchy-fitted-at-the- classics with a twist. bottom harem pants, it was nice to see the designer’s wild side — hoof-shaped footwear included. YORK Jill Stuart: A preppy breath of fresh air blew through Stuart’s fall collection, in which few of the frilly, skin-baring details Rachel Behnaz Sarafpour: Eschewing the runway in favor of a low-key of previous outings were visible. This prepster had a military bent: Roy presentation, Sarafpour showed a clean and elegant lineup of fall clothes. Stylish jackets were done in black and olive, cut with strong shoulders She has always been a designer whose wares have an ease and simplicity, and narrow waists, and jumpsuits had a parachuter’s detailing, with but occasionally Sarafpour got tripped up with tricky prints and draping; belts and pockets but not too many bells and whistles. Adorable draped not here. The palette was taupe, black and white; a great camel trench was kilts followed, paired with loose blouses and oversize knits, done in paired with a striking raccoon bolero, while trousers, in tweed and crepe cool cocoon shapes — and even the requisite club-ready minidresses de chine, were cut sleek and slim. Dresses, like a pretty black wool and had a sweet wink-wink factor, like the black silk number covered in brocade shift, and skirts had a schoolgirl quality, with zippers and A-line white lips. WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 17 WWD.COM

Behnaz Y-3 Y-3 Malandrino Sarafpour

For full runs of show, WWD.com.

Commonwealth Utilities PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY

Academy of Art University: Give credit to Simon Ungless, the director of fashion (and former longtime colleague of Alexander McQueen) for whipping Rachel Roy: The opulent mystique of Egypt in the Twenties inspired Rachel Roy this a group of master’s students into runway shape; the clothes sent out by season and could be seen in the use of antique gold and textural treatments. A crocheted six M.F.A. students at this San Francisco school surpassed some of the dress and jacket had a metallic varnish that suggested chain mail, and a long and lean contemporary shows strapless gown was done in a graphic jacquard. Not everything gelled. Two frumpy already seen for tea-party dresses seemed particularly out of place among Roy’s otherwise elegant, fall. First up, Marina sophisticated clothes, such as a deep purple coat and a simple black dress with subtle Solomatnikova worked power in its shoulder and sleeve. In fact, the collection’s best moments came when suede into flattering the decorative effects — the tricky lace panels and British colonial references — were dresses and coats, stripped away. subtly detailed with draped and folded Y-3: While Yohji Yamamoto’s eponymous line is waging a tough fight these days, the backs; then Bethany designer was clearly in a playful mood when it came to his Adidas-backed collection. Meuleners highlighted Models came bounding out wearing first a series of casual plaid basics that were slightly texture with a military-esque, followed by plays on volume, be it the fullness of capes or the gathered Duchamp-inspired skirts of racer-back dresses. lineup of navy and Yamamoto hasn’t shown his signature men’s collection recently, but meanwhile, Y-3 plum-colored silk looks more Yohji than ever in the baggy tailoring, washed fabrics and military influences. slips over intricately Culottes and tartans also harked back to past Yohji collections, while Simon & Garfunkel woven dresses and songs set a nostalgic, wistful mood. The finale saw Yamamoto getting “knocked out” by bodysuits. In his one of his models, only to rise up with a grin and a wave to the crowd. knitwear collection, Steven Oo used the Araks: Araks Yeramyan’s small, strong collection hit a great balance between stylish and lines of an Italian sensible. And what a relief to see no tiers and folds, asymmetric and origami affectations, architect to inform which are flooding the runways this season. Instead, there were lean, clean-lined shapes his startlingly chic — long, slender black wool coats and skirts; easy trousers and a sleek leather tunic over black sweater a lapis slip. Enter some edge: bralettes in embroidered organza or leather under chiffon dresses and coats, shirts; a mallard blue organza bodysuit under the terrific navy crepe dress with sequined which had little mallard sleeves. spikes along the back. And, with her Commonwealth Utilities: Inspired by the collision of traditions in the respective uniforms jewel-bedecked felt of naval officers and Wall Street office drones, Commonwealth Utilities marched out coats, Sabah Mansoor Sabah a salute to trim, elegant tailoring and chunky sailor sweaters. Styling devices such as Husain offered refined Mansoor thermal underwear and watch caps set the nautical mood — with a whiff of “Querelle” outerwear with a Husain in the air — but what stood out was the quality and stylish, wearable appeal of the super dash of twinkly color. Steven Oo 120s suiting in subtle plaid and trenchcoats in washed leather.

20 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS

COMPETITIVE EDGE: France’s ANDAM fashion award just got a double boost, with the arrival of French Vogue editor in chief Carine Roitfeld as head of the jury and an extra 60,000 euros, or $81,758, in prize money. The move was revealed just three weeks after a meeting between Roitfeld, French Industry Minister Christian Estrosi and U.S. Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour, at which Wintour told the government ofﬁcial that France was not doing enough to support emerging designers. Organizers of the prize said it would carry a reward of 220,000 euros, or $299,781 at current exchange rates, in 2010 — more than the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and other leading awards, they remarked. The award is bestowed by the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts on local or foreign designers under age 40 seeking to expand their businesses in France. Previous winners include Giles Deacon, Gareth Pugh and Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf. Finalists are to be unveiled in May, with the awards ceremony taking place in October.

CAMPING OUT: Sean Lennon and his girlfriend, Charlotte Kemp Muhl, cohosted a party with Paper magazine on Saturday for the opening of the latest Camper flagship on Madison Avenue. Kelly Osbourne and actress Alison Brie checked out the 1,500-square-foot space, along with Lorenzo Fluxá Jr., son of the founder of the Spanish footwear brand. Camper operates four stores in the The scene at the Bowery Hotel. Jason Wu U.S. and more than 200 globally. PHOTOS BY JIMI CELESTE PHOTOS BY GOSSIP GIRLS: Wearing a one-shoulder sequin dress with sparkly silver platform shoes, Mena Suvari CREATING A ROAR fended off a torrent of flashbulbs as she tried to make her way to her seat at Monday’s Jill Stuart show With a touch of Chinese tradition and some fun, Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford at the New York Public Library. Suvari, who just finished filming “Two Wolves,” a horror flick directed celebrated “The Year of the Tiger” at the Bowery Hotel on Friday night, where the retailer’s by Alex Wright, said she’s looking forward to a little time off. There’s no rest in sight for Michelle president, Jennifer Woo, surprised guests by greeting them with red envelopes. Inside the Trachtenberg of “Gossip Girl.” She’s also been filming “Mercy,” envelopes — in a token of good luck and to ward off evil spirits — were U.S. dollar bills. Michelle the NBC series about a hospital set in Jersey City. “We’ve been Guests weren’t supposed to take a peek until Chinese New Year’s on Sunday. “You put it Trachtenberg filming at the Jersey shore,” she said. “An episode deals with under your pillow and it brings you luck,” Woo explained. a lot of Guidos and Guidettes.” As for fashion, Trachtenberg Party chatter centered on how landlords have tried to lure Lane Crawford to Manhattan said “unless you’re Gwen Stefani, who can do no wrong, clothing — despite resistance from the retailer. Woo expressed optimism about the future without can come out looking kind of cheesy.” “Gossip Girl” pal Jessica addressing real estate. “It’s such an exciting time for us,” she said. “We feel the energy. We Szohr, who attended Diane von Furstenberg’s show on Sunday, had a strong fall and we are off to a strong start to spring.” would agree. “I started modeling when I was 15,” said the Also greeting the 250 or so guests were Sarah Rutson, Lane Crawford’s fashion director, actress, who will be seen in the upcoming “Something Wicked,” and a fortune teller. starring the late Brittany Murphy. “I try to keep up with [fashion]. Earlier on Friday night, Domenico Vacca staged his fall show at the Peter Tunney Gallery I love the classics. I love Rodarte, Chanel and Calvin Klein. My off Fifth Avenue, a collection inspired by the craftsmanship and fabrics of his men’s wear, style is still sporadic.” particularly wool and cashmere. “We call it ‘edgy sartorialist,’” Vacca said. In addition to being cheaper than showing at Bryant Park, in a gallery presentation, “you CLOTHES UNEXPECTED: Shiri Appleby of “Life Unexpected” was can really see the details,” he said. “In the tents, it moves too fast.” soaking up the preshow photo ops at Monique Lhuillier. “It’s As far as new stores, a unit is to open in Atlanta in 2011 “and we are looking at Moscow pretty incredible. It’s a lot more fun than it seems on TV. I am and London for flagships,” he said. really living in the glamour.” Marchesa, Temperley, Pamela PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY Rolland and Tory Burch are on this week’s itinerary, but she didn’t know if freebie dresses will be part of the package. “Just being WEARS JOHNNY: U.S. figure skater Johnny Weir part of fashion week is enough,” Appleby said. Melissa George reportedly opted to stay in the Olympic Village Johnny Weir in a fur- Whitney and Sophie Bush were also in the house. rather than a Vancouver hotel due to threats trimmed costume. Port from antifur activists. But People for the Ethical PRINCELY SUMS: Shontelle’s “No Gravity” album isn’t out Treatment of Animals wasn’t responsible, according until the spring, but its first single “Impossible” is already to president Ingrid Newkirk. “He said he got calls at climbing the charts. The towering musician will be airborne home. That’s not our style. We go directly to people herself this weekend — Prince Azim of Brunei is flying her and point out the why of it,” she said Monday. in to perform at a private party. Before Yeohlee Teng’s show The group did make a written appeal to Weir a Monday, Shontelle said she met and hung out with the royal few weeks ago asking him to stop wearing fur. Last when she performed on Beyoncé’s tour. This time she will be month, he competed at the U.S. Figure Skating the top billing and will be reimbursed handsomely. “They’re Championships wearing a fox-trimmed outfit. The paying us $200,000 just to be there. It’s a pretty major Olympian recently said he will not wear fur during situation. I think it’s all oil money.” the Games, but that decision was driven by style. Executives at U.S. Figure Skating did not respond PORT OF CALL: Whitney Port made the press rounds at Erin to a request for comment Monday. Fetherston on Sunday night. The reality show star-cum- “Now that Johnny has acquiesced, we wish all designer wore a structured Fetherston cocktail dress, with her the best for him and hope he goes for the gold,” blonde hair in a swept-up top knot. Though she’s currently in Newkirk said. “We will look at other targets that production, camera crews were nowhere to be seen. “I’m just need to be educated.” here to get inspiration,” explained Port. When asked if the Asked if it was likely that PETA would still hectic schedule of filming and designing a collection were a have rooted for Weir had he not changed his burden, Port replied, “I couldn’t lead a mundane, normal life. costume, she said, “Not particularly. We like kind I’d be bored.” people to win everything and cruel people to go to PHOTO BY HEINZ KLUETMEIER/ HEINZ KLUETMEIER/ PHOTO BY IMAGES ILLUSTRATED/GETTY SPORTS the back of the pack.” LEXIE MORELAND PHOTO BY INDIA, VIA LONDON: India’s leading designers are out to capitalize on the growing overseas market for south Asian ART AND COMMERCE: The Whitney Museum of fashion by showcasing their collections at London’s first all-Indian fashion week. Indian Premier American Art found itself a new fashion industry friend for the 2010 Whitney London Fashion Week, which is to be held April 7 to 11 at the Truman Brewery in London’s Biennial, which opens to the public on Feb. 25. Tommy Hilfiger USA Inc. will East End, is being organized by Idea Weavers, an Indian events management company, and be this year’s Biennial fashion sponsor, and, as part of the partnership, Elite Model Management in Stockholm. It will take place twice a year. Tommy Hilfiger is launching a few initiatives. In addition to hosting The event hopes to tap into Britain’s large and increasingly prosperous Asian the opening night’s after party at his Fifth Avenue flagship with writer population. Asians — chiefly Indians, Pakistanis and Bangladeshis — constitute some Bob Colacello, 2010 Biennial artist Ari Marcopoulos and Whitney 4 percent of the U.K.’s population, and they are thought to generate an even higher director Adam D. Weinberg on Feb. 23, Hilfiger and Marcopoulos have percentage of gross domestic product. “British Asians are an affluent class who are not collaborated on a special limited edition tote sold at the Whitney yet being catered to,” said Vivek Agarwal, Idea Weavers’ chief events coordinator. and the Fifth Avenue store for $98 from Feb. 24. Half the proceeds Those expected to take part in the event include Anamika Khanna, Narendra from sales of the totes will go to the museum. The first 1,000 visitors Kumar and Ritu Beri, alongside newer upcoming designers. on Feb. 27 will also be able to enter the exhibit for free, courtesy of Khanna, who was one of India’s first designers to show at Paris Fashion Week, Hilfiger, who is underwriting their admission. said she found it tough being the only representative of Indian design when she started showing overseas. “It’s really tough if you do it by yourself, even though A TOUCH OF BRITAIN: For anyone who couldn’t make it to Paris for anything from India automatically arouses interest,” she said. “But to do it men’s fashion week, Dunhill has brought its fall collection to New collectively, as the best of Indian talent, that’s exciting.” York. Through Feb. 18, the collection hangs in a temporary installation on West 13th Street in the Meatpacking District, where Dunhill has Tommy Hilfiger and Ari DINING A LA DIOR: Dior invited 50 of San Francisco’s cultural movers and shakers to suspended die-cut aluminum panels that mimic the lines of Bourdon Marcopoulos’ limited edition tote. a lunch last week to view the Dior summer collection and a selection of couture Bar House, the brand’s London home. Glass cases display archival objects jackets from the Paris archives. “I’d love to keep all of them,” said Juliet de Baubigny, including pens, games and leather envelopes. Designer Kim Jones came admiring the pieces on display in Pamela Joyner’s sunny breakfast room. During lunch, for the opening night on Thursday and put on a brave face for guests although he was bereft as models in red-carpet-worthy silk gowns pranced through the dining room, the Bay Area’s fashion about his friend Alexander McQueen. Jones did say he was pleased with Dunhill’s progress and contingent was joined by a junior member. Make that superjunior. eager to locate permanent space for a New York store. Five-month-old Montana Tessa Newsom, dressed in Baby Dior booties, popped in with her nanny for a visit with mom Jennifer Siebel Newsom, one of the luncheon hosts. TALENT AT TRACY: Destiny’s Child member Michelle Williams glammed it up at the Tracy Reese Jennifer has been working 24-7 to complete a rough cut of her 90-minute documentary, fall collection Monday. The singer is in town to catch a few more shows, notably Tory Burch and “Miss Representation,” about women in politics. Michael Kors. “Coming here makes me work harder because I want to be able to buy everything I “It’s been a very intense one-year project, and now we have to complete a final cut to show at see,” Williams said. Seated right next to her was Julia Stiles, fresh off of starring in David Mamet’s summer film festivals,” said Newsom. “Oleanna” in both New York and Los Angeles. “I’ve been reading a lot of scripts these days,” Also nibbling on lobster medallions and pear galettes were Sloan Barnett, Karen Caldwell, Stiles said of her next acting plan. Hilary Newsom Callan, Rosemary Baker, Dayle Haddon and Yurie Pascarella. soothing décor flawless design sublime amenities

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Textile & Trade Report Première Vision Mills Mix Nostalgia With Reality

By Katya Foreman Young designer looks for Alcantara. PARIS — As their fall collections hit the runways, designers already are turning their minds to spring — and are squeezing mills over prices more than ever. Firms exhibiting at the world’s largest textile fair, Première Vision, which ended its four-day run here Friday, focused on heritage but also price given the global economic downturn, with customers pushing for wow-factor fabrics for less. “Even luxury brands are being price conscious — things have changed,” said Dan Nakayama, executive officer of international sales for Japanese outerwear specialist Komatsu, which works with a number of luxury brands. Among Komatsu’s new offerings was a machine-wash- able garment-dye nylon range with a waxy finish. Hidenobu Shibata, a designer at Japanese mill Cobo, said for the first time he had brands ask if the firm’s fabrics could be produced in China in order to lower the cost. “They want tricky fabrics, but don’t want to pay the price,” he said. The pressure on price is only increasing the squeeze on European mills, already battling a strong euro and the com- petition from the behemoth that is China. As the European economy battles the whirlpool created by the financial problems in Greece, countries like Italy face the prospect that their textile industry could see even more significant shrinkage over the coming year. Key trends at the show included: t 4QFDJBM PSEFS GBCSJDT XJUI EFTJHOFST XPSLJOH XJUI mills to create their own exclusive textiles.

t1MBJETBOEDIFDLT DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY t*OOPWBUJWFUSFBUNFOUT FTQFDJBMMZPGOBUVSBMGBCSJDT t#SJHIUDPMPST that I can reuse?’” she said. Lum Yeung, men’s associate designer for Calvin Klein, said the weak dollar made Designers shopping the show said several mills appeared to have reworked old it harder to pick from Italian mills. stock by applying new washes and coatings. “We work a lot with Turkish and Asian [companies],” she said, adding she was after “It seems the Italians are having a really bad time, there’s not much in the way of light, easy and sporty fabrics with lots of textures in neutrals and pops of color. new developments,” said Paris-based designer Damir Doma. “For the Japanese, it’s #MBLF,VXBIBSB BDPOTVMUBOUGPS)POH,POHCBTFENBOVGBDUVSFS-FWFS4UZMF exactly the opposite, they’re really putting up a fight.” Inc., said one of the biggest challenges faced by Asian manufacturers is rising labor Doma lauded Cobo’s layered cotton range with subtle tone-on-tone prints, and costs, which have increased by up to 20 percent. Fueling those increases has been Sotoh’s multilayered, superlight and dry cottons. growing resistance from Chinese youth, who are finding more opportunities outside There were pockets of optimism among mills, however. Malhia Kent stylist Eve the textile industry. Corrigan cited “enormous demand” for made-to-measure fabrics. Recent commis- Some visitors cited an uncertain mood at the show, and sounded alarm bells for sions have included mohair that resembles ice cream and fabric that looks like jam. Europe’s embattled producers of high-end textiles. Customers are being demanding on creativity and reactivity, said Corrigan, adding “Everyone’s very tentative,” said Susannah Handley, material and product devel- that, while sales declined 40 percent in the first half of 2009, the firm has seen record- opment consultant for Louis Vuitton. “It seems they’re afraid to spend money, which breaking results over the last six months. is so not the thing to do right now.” Key trends observed by designers included an emphasis on innovative surface tex- Many designers are now going directly to manufacturers to have fabrics made to tures, lighter open-weave fabrics with a handcrafted feel, irregular patterns, color specification, she said. and humor. “It gives them the opportunity for innovation and it’s a more interesting, collabora- “The colors are good enough to eat, very spring-like bonbon shades,” said Deborah tive way of working which is more secure for both parties,” Handley said. Lloyd, co-president and creative director of Kate Spade. “The Eighties have disap- Mills said brands and retailers might not confirm orders until April, wreaking peared, thank God,” she added, citing a softer, more feminine mood. havoc with the supply chain. Europe’s spinners and finishers are said to be in a "NBOEB8IFCMF TFOJPSXPNFOTXFBSEFTJHOFSGPS#SJUJTITQPSUTXFBSCSBOE$SFX frail state, a situation experts said could prove detrimental to the creativity of which is looking to expand its women’s wear line, was impressed with the “amazing” European textiles. selection of prints. “All of the selections will be sent out next week, then it goes into limbo,” said Pat “Checks are becoming more important, with more ginghams and seersucker bases,” Keeney, a woven cloth designer for Scotland’s Johnstons. she said. ,BUZ #FSDPWJUDI NBOBHJOH EJSFDUPS PG -POEPOCBTFE TJML NFSDIBOU )FOSZ Lanvin men’s wear designer Lucas Ossendrijver cited an abundance of natural #FSUSBOE DJUFEBMBDLPGDPOmEFODFBNPOHDVTUPNFST materials, especially technical cotton mixes. “I think a lot of people have said to themselves, ‘What have I got under the table “I’ve seen lots of strange prints and surface effects, such as mixing really hairy yarns with really flat ones, and interesting tweedy effects, but done in cotton and linen — so summery,” he said, praising Lorma’s offer. Tweedy-look cashmere Colored denim “We will see a lot of archive fabrics from the Fifties and Sixties… and cotton swatches by Saic Velcorex CSBOETBSFLFFOUPDVMUJWBUFUIFJSIFSJUBHF wTBJE3PCFSU#SF WJDFQSFTJ- by Johnstons of Elgin. Concord. dent of ready-to-wear and accessories for the Como-based mill Mantero. Production orders have slowed since September, he said, attributing it to poor sell through “even for the major brands.” Alcantara, the Italian firm whose eponymous suede-like technical fabric was used by Halston in the Seventies to create an entire collection, is set on reviving its links with the fashion world. In partnership with Italian Vogue, the firm presented Alcantara-based outfits and accessories by eight young designers at the event, including Nicholas Kirkwood and Marco Di Vincenzo. The firm’s main business had shifted from fashion, which now represents around 20 percent of sales, to the automotive industry. Shandong Ruyi set out to change the perception of made-in-China fabrics with The Ruyi Collection, a range of worsted suiting fabrics in ultra- light weights. “The West definitely has the impression that Chinese companies are lacking in creativity, but that’s in the past,” said group chairman Qui Ya Fu. “Rapid economic growth has brought about wealth, which we’re investing in research and development and human resources. We’re recruit- ing the best [creative people].” -JCFSUZJOUSPEVDFEJUT5IF4UPSZ#PPL$PMMFDUJPO XJUIQSJOUTJOTQJSFE CZUIFTUZMFTPGFTUBCMJTIFEBOEFNFSHJOH#SJUJTIJMMVTUSBUPST JODMVEJOH 2VFOUJO#MBLFBOE4BMMZ)BZTPN"NPOHOPWFMUJFTBU+BLPC4DIMBFQGFS was a range of daisy fabrics Marc Jacobs is said to have fancied. “It’s all about nuances,” said Lever Style’s Kuwahara, who was after fabrics with a creative edge. “American retailers realize they have to be more on point with what consumers are looking for. They can no longer [operate] on price and brand name alone. Product needs to jump off the shelf, be innovative fresh….They can’t just come out with a white Designs from Liberty’s The Story Book Collection. A couture daisy fabric by Jakon Schlaepfer. shirt anymore.” WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 23 WWD.COM Economic Uncertainty Hinders Texworld Exhibitors By Joelle Diderich PARIS — While the worst of the global economic slump might be past, lingering uncertainty made for mixed results for visitors and mills attending the Texworld trade fair. Attendance at the show, which ran here Feb. 8 to 11, was up 2.2 percent to 14,038 visitors, compared with last year’s edition, according to the fair’s organizers. For this season, organizers condensed the layout into a single hall showcasing 642 exhibitors, giving the show roughly the same number of exhibitors as the February 2009 edition. With the outlook for 2010 still cloudy, mills offered fl exible pricing, buyers said. However, those seeking to place small orders still found themselves at a disadvantage to bulk buyers. “Prices are negotiable,” said Haidar Bazzi, a buyer for Lebanese clothing manufacturer Clear Trim. “The mills will give you one set of prices, but when you squeeze them, they go down.” Bazzi said his budget was back up by 30 to 40 percent Visitors take a break at Texworld. after being trimmed 30 percent during the recession last Below, a “cashmere-feel” linen scarf year. Still, he was making every dollar count. by Indian fi rm Vrijesh Corp. “We have lowered our margins to be competitive in the market,” he said. That pragmatic outlook was echoed by Craig Jackson, de- he said. “Too many fairs are going on in the world. Maybe denim brands are sign director at Berwin & Berwin, which also owns the Daniel more interested in door-to-door visits.” Hechter, Paul Costelloe and Lambretta labels. Nonetheless, Shakoor said order levels were “very good” despite ADM having to “The business is there, if you’re willing to adapt your hike its prices by 20 percent in response to a global cotton shortage. price point,” he said. Newcomer P.T. Mayer Indah Indonesia reported strong interest in its lace, embroi- Jackson said his budget for bulk cloth was up 10 percent this dery and tulle, though no fi rm orders. Meanwhile, long-standing exhibitor Vrijesh season as the group recently increased capacity by 20 percent Corp., which has clients such as Giorgio Armani Group and Marks & Spencer, said at its plant in Longkou City, China. Berwin & Berwin produces demand for fabrics was picking up from last year’s lows, while interest in its cash- private label collections for brands mere-feel linen scarves remained strong. including Austin Reed, Ted Baker “We’re having quality visitors,” said Vrijesh co-owner Shruti Agarwal. “Demand and John Lewis. However, Jackson is up by maybe 30 to 40 percent on fabrics and 35 to 40 percent on scarves.” lamented the absence of several Buyers singled out basics like cotton and linen as the strongest products European and Chinese mills. on offer, but some complained that despite an effort to spotlight eco-friendly “There are one or two interest- fabrics, natural textiles were still hard to fi nd. ing things, but there’s not enough “We found a lot of fabrics which are not sustainable,” said Emma Kopper, tailoring to go around,” he said. a student at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, who was sourcing textiles for “People are not spending money the Individuals by AMFI collection, sold in The Netherlands. “Most mills do on showing.” a combination of stuff, so you can’t be sure that it’s all eco-friendly.” Buyers intending to combine visits to Texworld and rival show Première Vision found their plans scuppered last Wednesday, when the suburban railway line linking the show venues broke down, leav- ing scores of travelers stranded. Beyond problems with logis- tics, mill executives said the growing number of textile shows being put on around the world could be negatively impacting visitor attendance and is placing greater fi nan- cial burdens on mills. Mubashir Shakoor, marketing executive at Pakistan-based 3()24).'3!2%.´4*534 Artistic Denim Mills, said the plethora of textile trade fairs A lace sample from &/23()243!.9-/2% worldwide was bad for business. newcomer P.T. Mayer “We are not very satisfi ed this Indah Indonesia )MPORTED$OMESTIC&ABRICSFOR,OUNGEWEAR /UTERWEAR time. There are not many visitors,” DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY ,ININGS "EACHWEAR 2ESORTWEAR ANDOFCOURSE3HIRTS"LOUSES

7EINVENTORYOVERMILLIONYARDSOFTHEHIGHESTQUALITYTEXTILES USTR to Launch Haiti Industry Plan INTHE.EW9ORKAREA.EWITEMSADDEDREGULARLY By Liza Casabona )MPORTEDCOTTONPREMIUMLONGSTAPLE %GYPTIAN WASHINGTON — U.S. Trade Representative Ron Kirk plans to unveil an initiative 3OLIDBROADCLOTHS 3UPERBA #ORONA 5LTIMO today that encourages U.S. apparel brands to work toward manufacturing 1 percent /XFORDS of their total production in Haiti. 0INPOINTS The Plus One for Haiti program is intended to help lift the industry after last month’s devastating earthquake, people familiar with the matter said. 4ONEON4ONES $OBBIES 3ATIN3TRIPES *ACQUARDS Companies that shift their apparel and textile sourcing will be able to take ad- 0IQUES vantage of trade benefi ts. Duty free apparel benefi ts were extended to Haiti in 2006 %YELETS under the Haitian Hemispheric Opportunity through Partnership Encouragement Act, or HOPE, and its successor, HOPE II, in 2008. Under the programs, the country’s 9ARN DYED3TRIPES0LAIDS apparel manufacturing sector grew. 3EERSUCKERS Before the earthquake, 28 apparel and textile fi rms were operating in Haiti. They "ATISTE employed 28,000 workers, according to the Association of Industries of Haiti. The 6OILE industry in Haiti was a mainstay of the economy, accounting for two-thirds of exports and almost 10 percent of gross domestic product. 'AUZE The garment sector is seen as an important tool to help Haiti, which is the poorest 3WISS$OT country in the Western Hemisphere, with 80 percent of its population living below 'INGHAM the poverty line. Imports from Haiti increased 24.5 percent to $513.3 million in 2009, 3TRETCH3OLIDS 9ARN DYED3TRIPES0IQUES according to the Commerce Department’s Offi ce of Textiles & Apparel. Carol Guthrie, assistant USTR for public and media affairs, said Kirk will make an announcement at the MAGIC marketplace trade show in Las Vegas. ,OW-INIMUMS The USTR initiative is intended to assist in getting Haitian factories and businesses up and running as quickly as possible. According to estimates, close to 75 percent of the garment industry in Haiti is functioning. 0HILIPS "OYNE#ORP To oversee the initiative, USTR will also establish a Haiti HOPE task force under 2OME3TREET&ARMINGDALE .9 Gail Strickler, assistant USTR for textiles. The task force will focus on working with 4EL&AX brands, business leaders in Haiti and government offi cials in both countries to dis- WWWPHILIPSBOYNECOMSALES PHILIPSBOYNECOM mantle any remaining roadblocks for Haitian textile and apparel exports. 24 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM J. Crew to Open Fourth Men’s Store Maria Pinto Closes J. CREW IS STEPPING ON THE ACCELERATOR ticated, fashionable and higher-income men who By Beth Wilson to grow its men’s business. love fashion and love to look good.” The retailer has signed a lease for its fourth He credited Frank Muytjens, vice president of CHICAGO — Apparently counting First Lady Michelle Obama and men’s-only store in the New York area, WWD has men’s design, for elevating the men’s assortment. Oprah Winfrey as clients wasn’t enough to keep this city’s most learned, and is aggressively seeking locations for “Within the past two years, we’ve really re- prominent designer, Maria Pinto, afloat in this economy. additional units outside Manhattan. vamped our entire approach to the men’s busi- Pinto, who gained national recognition for dressing Obama on “Someone needed to step in and give men ness,” Drexler said. the campaign trail, quietly closed her North Jefferson Street bou- clothes they could wear, love and collect,” said “The men’s world has not been a growth in- tique here last week, and her company reportedly plans to file for Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chief executive officer dustry,” he said, but J. Crew has found success by bankruptcy later this week. of J. Crew Group Inc. investing in “quality and creativity,” he said. “We “As a result of increasing economic challenges and soft buying Saying the company is “becoming ambi- knew it couldn’t be just the same old thing.” trends at the top end of the apparel market, it has become apparent tious and opportunistic in our men’s business,” Drexler said among the signature items for that we cannot sustain the business,” said Pinto. “[We] have made Drexler confirmed J. Crew will open a 3,400 men are washed shirts; chinos, particularly the the decision to close the company’s design, wholesale and retail op- square foot men’s store at 1040 Madison Avenue slimmer-fit Bowery model, and the Ludlow and erations.” at 79th Street, across from a women’s store Aldrich suits. He said of the suits: “They’re Pinto also referenced a comeback, stating, “I am confident that at 1035 Madison. The unit is expected simple and understandable” and ap- the Maria Pinto name will not go away, but will merely take a break to open in August or September. peal to a man who may be attracted to before emerging in a new form.” The store will join three others devot- designer goods without the designer The news came as a surprise to many, given that Pinto’s star ap- ed exclusively to men’s product: a unit price tag. “We use the best Italian fab- peared to still be rising. Just last year, Pinto was inducted into the on West Broadway in TriBeCa, known as rics but keep the prices” reasonable, Council of Fashion Designers of America, showed her spring 2010 the Liquor Store because of its location WWD he said. The Ludlow, which uses Loro collection during New York Fashion Week and joined the likes of in a former bar; one at 484 Broadway Piana fabrics and is sold as separates, Anna Sui and Nicole Miller as the recipient of the School of the Art in SoHo, and the only mall location, at Men s retails for $165 for the pants and $365 Institute of Chicago’s Legend of Fashion award. Garden State Plaza in Paramus, N.J. ’ for the jacket. The Ludlow, made from Pinto’s decision took some of her accounts off guard, including “It’s definitely a business now,” Lanificio Di Tollegno fabrics, retails for Takashimaya, where store manager John Liguori said her dresses Drexler said. “It’s beyond the test phase.” $395 for the jacket and $195 for the pants. and wraps continued to sell well at the Fifth Avenue boutique. Men’s overall accounts for around 25 percent of Drexler said J. Crew’s men’s collaborations, “We’ve loved having her things here. They’re beautiful,” he said. the company’s $1.4 billion volume. which include Thomas Mason shirts, Alden shoes, Pinto’s exit also represents another higher-profile name leav- Saying he “couldn’t be more pleased with the Superior Label canvas bags, Jutta Neumann san- ing Chicago’s top-tier retail scene as Ultimo, considered one of the response to our other stores,” Drexler said he’s dals, Mackintosh coats, Baracuta jackets and Red city’s most influential fashion boutiques, closed its doors last month ready to expand beyond New York City. “We’re Wing boots, have also connected with customers. after 40 years in business. looking for the right locations in the right places Proudly noting the company “micromanages” its Michelle Although Pinto would not dis- in the right cities — places that will appreciate men’s business, Drexler added: “Everything we do Obama cuss the reasons behind her de- what we’re doing.” is very edited and preselected, and guys like that.” wearing cision, local retail analyst Keven The company is “actively looking” for sites in Each of the men’s stores has its own personal- Maria Pinto. Wilder, president of Wilder Inc., Los Angeles, Chicago and Boston, he said, although ity, and Drexler said the newest addition will as wondered if her wholesale seg- there is no timetable for the rollout. well. “We haven’t developed the design yet; we ment brought down the business. The plan, he said, is “not to open hundreds of just signed the lease, but our women’s store at “If some of the boutiques she was stores in every mall location.” Instead, the com- 1035 looks like it’s always been there. We’ll apply selling to weren’t paying their bills, pany is taking a “less is more approach.” Each the same inspiration to the men’s store. It won’t there’s only so long you can exist. I of these cities where the company is looking for look like a downtown store, but one that fits into suspect that’s what happened,” said space “can support a men’s store,” Drexler said, the neighborhood on the Upper East Side.” Wilder, also questioning whether by virtue of their populations of “urban, sophis- — Jean E. Palmieri Pinto was able to adjust her prices downward as some other designers have done. “The economy is just very difficult,” Wilder said, “but I would have thought with the p.r. surround- FEBRUARY 2010 ing Obama that would have carried [Pinto] through.” Ikram Goldman, owner of the high-end specialty store Ikram here, said she had yet to speak to Pinto about what happened. “I wish her the best of luck. She’s an amazing lady,” said Goldman, who is also considered Obama’s unofficial styl- A LEADING DESIGNER, MARKETER, AND Maria ist. “I can’t speak for other retailers MANUFACTURER OF PREMIUM DENIM Pinto on why they’re closing or staying open. I am grateful every day to have my store.” HAS COMPLETED A RECAPITALIZATION Pinto, an SAIC graduate, launched her line in 1991 with her LED BY STAR AVENUE CAPITAL women’s accessories making their debut at Bergdorf Goodman. She later expanded into eveningwear, but declared bankruptcy in 2002 due to health issues, employee em- bezzlement and economic factors after 9/11. Pinto relaunched her business in 2004, meeting Obama soon after- ward. Pinto dressed her for several important occasions prior to her husband’s presidential bid. She wore Pinto’s clothing on the day Barack Obama launched his presidential campaign, on numerous stops during the campaign and on the night she famously knuckle-bumped THE SAGE GROUP INITIATED THE TRANSACTION him wearing a purple Pinto silk sheath and Azzedine Alaïa belt as AND ACTED AS EXCLUSIVE FINANCIAL ADVISOR CHIP SOMODEVILLA/GETTY WHALEN KRISTEN SOMODY OBAMA PHOTO BY IMAGES; PINTO BY he claimed the Democratic nomina- TO J BRAND, INC. tion. However, after her husband won the election, Obama expanded her repertoire and favored designs from younger talent such as Jason Wu as well as the work of veterans such as Isabel Toledo, Narciso Rodriguez, Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein and Michael Kors. After relaunching her business, Pinto introduced ready-to-wear and added Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York and Takashimaya THE SAGE GROUP, LLC LOS ANGELES / 310.478.7899 as accounts. In 2008, she opened her Chicago boutique, where pric- SAGE PARTNERS SECURITIES, LLC WWW.SAGELLC.COM / [email protected] es ranged from $300 for simple silk tops to $1,200 to $5,000 for eve- MEMBER: SIPC/FINRA ning gowns. It’s been a rough time for high-end shopping, with fewer galas and formal events and customers cutting back on their expensive purchases. In addition to Ultimo shutting its doors, other high-end THIS ANNOUNCEMENT APPEARS AS A MATTER OF RECORD ONLY boutiques that have pulled the plug include Georgina in Manhasset and Hewlett, N.Y.; Linda Dresner in Manhattan; Tracey Ross in Los Angeles, and Harriet Kassman in Washington. intoStep the spotlight PHOTO BY PHOTO

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For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson. 26 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM H&M Posts Positive January Comps Three Times the Britney for Candie’s By Joelle Diderich By Amy Wicks looked at first to be one of her signature portrait sittings. But Spears said she wanted to PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz AB reported total sales rose 11 percent in January, BRITNEY SPEARS, AS SEEN THROUGH play around and Leibovitz was game. “It’s a while same-store sales were up 1 percent, the retailer’s second consecutive the eyes of Annie Leibovitz, Terry different feeling for an Annie portrait,” said monthly increase. Richardson and Mark Seliger, is back this Dari Marder, chief marketing officer of Iconix Coming after a seven-month streak of negative same-store sales last year, season for Candie’s Only at Kohl’s. Brand Group Inc., which owns Candie’s. the figures suggested consumers are revving up their high-street spending. Late last year, the pop star was shot sep- Spears ended the day with Seliger, on “They aren’t power shopping, but there is a soft increase in consumption arately by all three photographers on the the most elaborate set of the three, which that I think will continue in the coming months,” said Soren Lontoft Hansen, same day, at the Paramount Studios lot in Marder described as being inspired by analyst at Sydbank. Hollywood. Each photographer was assigned “Moulin Rouge.” The Swedish fast-fashion giant said calendar effects negatively impacted a separate soundstage and Spears’ first shots Marder said Spears continues to resonate total sales by about 3 percentage units. H&M only releases percentage changes for monthly sales and does not break out actual sales figures. Last month, the company reported total sales during the period of Jan. 1 to Jan. 26 were up 13 percent versus the same period last year. The final figure of 11 percent for January as a whole therefore surprised some analysts, though H&M did not explain why there was a drop-off. “I guess weather could have played a role here,” said Lontoft Hansen. “Another thing could be increasing discounts.” The brand will unveil the second part of its collaboration with French designer Sonia Rykiel with a knitwear collection set to bow in stores worldwide on Saturday, following an initial lingerie line in December. Sales figures for February will be published April 8 alongside the financial report for the first quarter. H&M’s financial year runs from Dec. 1 to Nov. 30. The store count at the world’s third-largest fashion chain stood at 1,987 doors on Jan. 31, compared with 1,741 stores at the same time last year. Britney Spears’ ads for Candie’s.

with the “Candie’s girl,” and so the brand is changing its usual strategy of introducing a Report: E-commerce an M&A Target new spokesmodel each year. Past campaigns have featured Fergie, Hilary Duff and Jenny By Vicki M. Young and brick-and-mortar retailers to McCarthy. “It’s hard to pinpoint whether the make acquisitions in e-commerce,” sales are from marketing or pricing but it was E-COMMERCE PROVED THE EXCEP- the investment bank said. one of our best years,” Marder noted of 2009. tion to the rule of contracting merger Billabong International Ltd. The ads with Spears will launch with a four- and acquisition activity in specialty bought Swell Inc. in November page insert in the April issue of Seventeen and retailing during the second half of and Beverly Hills acquired a one-page ad in Teen Vogue. On the Web, the 2009, according to a report from in- StuffedAnimals.com in December. images will run on candies.com and on the so- vestment bank Tully & Holland. Transactions in the second half cial networking sites that Spears uses, such as Improving economic conditions of last year generally involved stra- of the day came on Richardson’s plain white her Facebook and Twitter pages. and continued tightness in the cred- tegic buyers acquiring privately set. Surprisingly, the two had never met, Marder declined to reveal the cost of the it markets held off private equity- held retailers. Tully & Holland said so they spent the first 10 minutes snapping campaign, but hiring Leibovitz, Seliger and backed leveraged buyouts, leading the deals were motivated by a vari- photos together. Richardson brought a me- Richardson comes at a high price. “We re- to a temporary contraction in M&A ety of rationales in addition to ex- nagerie of animals for Spears to pose with, ally had to give up control and let them all activity, the report said. Nineteen panding direct e-commerce sales, including a donkey and chickens, but the do their thing,” Marder added. transactions occurred in the second including brand acquisition, access final shot is of the pop star holding a huge She also hinted that more is to come in half of 2009, compared with 29 for the to new channels of distribution and stuffed teddy bear above her head. the second half with Spears but, unlike last same period in 2008. acquisition of complementary new Next, Spears visited Leibovitz for what year, it won’t be related to a concert tour. “Retailers receiving funding gen- growth vehicles. erally operated in one of three seg- The report also cited GSI ments — discount/value/off-price; Commerce’s acquisition in health and wellness, or Internet re- October of Retail Convergence, MEMO PAD tailing, all believed to have superior which operates Rue La La and GAWKER BUYS CITYFILE: Not even a minute after Gawker editor in chief Gabriel Snyder sent an growth prospects,” the investment SmartBargains, as noteworthy due e-mail to colleagues informing them that “I am being canned,” Gawker Media head Nick Denton banking firm said. “Meanwhile, a to its lofty valuation. released a statement of his own, confirming his company has acquired New York news site Cityfile still tepid mergers and acquisi- Last month, Sanyo Shokai Ltd. and its founder, Remy Stern, will replace Snyder. Snyder has held the top post at Gawker for some tions market saw multiple retailers, said it would buy apparel retailer 18 months, during which time he doubled the site’s audience (according to Denton). Snyder primarily in the multichannel and Kailani, the report noted. wrote: “...the history of Gawker Media careers shows that they tend to burn bright and fast. So it Internet segments, acquired by stra- With the consumer recovery shouldn’t have come as much of a surprise when our mercurial owner told me he’s hatched other tegic buyers. slowly under way, more than a dozen plans for Gawker. He [Denton] offered me a new, temporary position as an assistant managing “Perhaps most interesting were retailers raised capital through pri- editor of Gawker Media as a holding job, which I have declined.” Billabong’s and Beverly Hills Teddy vate placements during the last six Cityfile is Gawker Media’s first acquisition. Stern, a former writer on several Gawker sites Bear’s acquisitions of pure-play months of 2009, according to the re- and editor at Radar, takes over at Gawker on Monday. He described the acquisition as a “great Internet retailers in their respec- port. Among those transactions were marriage,” noting Cityfile will be a channel on the site. “We’ve had more serious discussions tive product categories. As growth in GEI LP’s investment in Second Time about this during the past few months,” he told WWD. He said it’s premature to talk about his Internet retailing continues to out- Around, a chain of luxury brand con- plans for Gawker, adding he has yet to meet the staff. Denton wrote on the site that to “achieve pace other retail channels, we expect signment shops, and Rho Ventures critical mass in entertainment and tech,” he has looked at a few opportunities during the past both consumer product companies VI’s investment in Bluefly Inc. few months. He said revenue growth of 22 percent last year “provides the resources” for potential acquisitions. — Amy Wicks Sri Lanka’s EU Tariff Benefits in Peril Poseley Tapped for Kmart Apparel Post By John Zarocostas By Sharon Edelson a new retail concept, PH8, to replace Bebe Sport stores in the U.S. and Canada. GENEVA — The European Union on Monday withdrew preferential tariff ben- NEW YORK — Sears Holdings Corp. on Poseley’s background includes leading efits on Sri Lankan goods, including apparel items such as T-shirts, because Monday named Tara Poseley senior vice business launches, developing Web sites of its poor human rights record, effective in six months. president and president of Kmart Apparel. and introducing social networking to retail- The repeal of the lucrative benefits is conditional on Sri Lanka failing to Poseley, who will be based in the com- ers. Before joining Bebe Sport, Poseley was redress its poor human rights record. pany’s San Francisco apparel offices, will president of Disney Stores, North America, “I would like to emphasize that I hope Sri Lanka will sit with us over the be responsible for the oversight, leader- a division of The Children’s Place. Prior to next six months in order to agree to a set of measures that will result in a ship and strategic growth of Kmart’s ap- that, she was president and chief executive rapid, demonstrable and sustainable progress in relation to human rights parel business, in stores and online. A officer of Design Within Reach. shortcomings,” said new EU trade commissioner Karel De Gucht. spokeswoman said the position has been Poseley began her career at Gap Inc. The suspension of the GSP+ benefits means that once the suspension kicks vacant. The last person to hold it was Kim as a merchant trainee. She spent 15 years in, Sri Lankan exports would revert to the standard Generalised System of McClaren, an executive of Gap’s defunct with the company, holding positions in- Preferences tariffs, the EU said. Under the EU’s normal GSP for developing Forth & Towne brand. cluding senior vice president of GapKids countries, nations that qualify benefit from a 20 percent discount on standard Poseley will inherit decades-old ap- and babyGap, and played a key role in the tariffs, which, for apparel, is around 12 percent, according to a Sri Lankan parel brands such as Jaclyn Smith, which launch of GapBody. trade diplomat. was rejuvenated in 2008. Other long-run- “[Tara] is an accomplished leader and Under the GSP+ program, aimed at encouraging “at-risk” developing coun- ning brands include Route 66, Covington, merchant with whom I have worked previ- tries to improve working conditions and diversify their economies, goods such Apostrophe and Joe Boxer. Kmart in ously,” said John Goodman, Kmart’s execu- as apparel have duty free status if they meet EU rules-of-origin criteria. the fall launched Thre3 by the U.S. Polo tive vice president of home and apparel. The Sri Lankan envoy said his nation is eager to resolve the problem Association, and Glo, a jeans collection for “She brings to the company excellent prod- through negotiations. Apparel exporters would face tens of millions of euros juniors from Jones Apparel Group, bowed uct development and brand management ex- in extra duties if the benefits were removed. in January. perience and a demonstrated success in cre- In 2008, EU imports from Sri Lanka under GSP+ totaled 1.24 billion euros, Prior to joining Kmart, Poseley was ating and inspiring high-performance teams or $1.69 billion at current exchange. president of Bebe Sport, where she created that are focused on satisfying the customer.” WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 27 WWD.COM European Markets Post Slight Gains Chip & Pepper Alters Structure EUROPEAN MARKETS PICKED UP SOME STEAM However, investor enthusiasm was limited by a By Khanh T.L. Tran Monday as concerns about Greece’s credit woes re- statement by Hirofumi Hirano, chief cabinet secre- mained in check. tary, that the country’s economy and “its trend re- LOS ANGELES — Chip & Pepper, one of the pioneering brands in London’s FTSE 100 rose 25.02 points, or 0.5 per- main severe and to this end, quickly implementing the premium denim industry, is switching to a licensed busi- cent, to 5,167.47 and the CAC 40 in Paris gained measures to be funded by the budget are needed to ness model with lower price points for fall. 10.15 points, or 0.3 percent, to finish Monday’s trad- help prevent the weak economy from sinking into a Responding to the challenging economy, co-founder Pepper ing session at 3,609.22. Germany’s DAX managed to double-dip recession.” Foster is teaming with his father-in-law, Charles Perez, and gain 10.71 points, or 0.2 percent, to close at 5,511.10. In the U.S., Zale Corp. on Monday confirmed denim designer Tadd Zarubica to launch a company called With markets in the U.S. closed for Presidents’ reports it eliminated 60 jobs at its corporate head- Venice Intelligence. Based in Venice, Calif., Venice Intelligence Day and in China for the lunar new year, trading quarters in Irving, Tex., last week, lowering the will design and oversee branding for denim, footwear, hand- volume was generally low. head count there to about 800. bags and home furnishings other companies will manufacture Tokyo’s Nikkei 225 slid 78.89 points, or 0.8 per- The specialty jeweler employs about 11,200 for the Chip & Pepper brand under license. cent, to land at 10,013.30. Last week, it closed below people in the U.S. Last week, the company hired While Foster and Perez are partners in Venice Intelligence, the 10,000 mark on three of four trading days, its Peter J. Solomon Co. to serve as its financial Zarubica, the former designer of Denim of Virtue, will serve first visits to four-digit territory this year. Despite adviser following a management shake-up in as president and brand manager. Foster’s identical twin broth- ongoing problems at Toyota Motor Corp. and the in- January in which Theo Killion, president, suc- er and brand co-founder, Chip, will focus on operating Chip solvency of Japan Airlines, Japan’s gross domestic ceeded Neal Goldberg as chief executive officer & Pepper’s freestanding stores in Toronto, Vancouver and product grew at an annualized rate of 4.6 percent on an interim basis. Montreal, and will handle manufacturing for clothing sold only last year, its government said. — Arnold J. Karr and Matthew Lynch in Canada. “The new equation in this economy is everyone is an expert in their area,” Zarubica said. “To create and manage product and drive your brand, that’s one function. Manufacturing is OBITUARY another huge component. It’s easier to find someone who can do the manufacturing and source the fabric. Chip & Pepper is design-driven, not manufacturing and administration driven.” St. Maarten USA’s Arlene Fishman Founded in 2003, Chip & Pepper tried a few times to branch out from the premium denim world. The brand launched C7P, DALLAS — Arlene Fishman, a partner in fashion im- Culture, São Paulo and Colcci. a denim and sportswear line for juniors and young men, three porter St. Maarten USA, died of ovarian cancer on Arlene Fishman handled many roles, includ- years ago at J.C. Penney and produced it until the deal ended Jan. 31 at Presbyterian Hospital here, said her son, ing sales, as well as customer and vendor rela- last year. It spun off another moderate-price brand, Mill Iron, Darren Fishman. She was 63. tions, and was well known in the Dallas market. last year at teen retailer The Buckle. Known for her vivacious personality, She and her husband started the company in Chip & Pepper’s premium denim brand, which retailed Fishman was active in the fashion industry 1985 to manufacture leather belts, handbags, for more than $175, stopped most of its wholesaling business for much of her life, managing various family denim and clothing. Before that, they operated last fall, when it shipped only to its freestanding stores and a businesses with her husband of 44 years, Marty leased shoe departments at specialty stores handful of specialty accounts. The line will relaunch this fall Fishman. Their company, St. Maarten USA of throughout Dallas. with more than 30 women’s styles, including patchwork jeans, Carrollton, Tex., has specialized in distributing In addition to her husband and son, Fishman is denim leggings, motorcycle-style jeans and other best-selling European and South American contemporary survived by another son, Ryan, two brothers and products from past Chip & Pepper collections. The new retail fashion lines since 1997 and currently repre- two grandsons. prices will range between $98 and $130. The women’s denim sents Gestuz, Paramita, Muchacha, European — Holly Haber will be manufactured by Makers USA in the U.S.

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