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February 16, 2010 • $3.00 WWDTUESDAYFebruary 16, 2010 • $3.00 5th AVE AT 54th ST shop online diesel.com S NEW YORK TEXTILES: FASHION WEEK: NEWS: Michelle The trends for 3FWJFXTPG 0CBNBEFTJHOFS spring 2011 at Maria Pinto to $BSPMJOB)FSSFSB Première close, page 24. 5IPN#SPXOF Vision, page 22. Zac Posen and more, BTXFMMBT'BTIJPO Scoops, pages 10 to 20. SECTION II: collections/fall ’10 WWDMagic NEW 8PNFOT8FBS%BJMZt5IF3FUBJMFST%BJMZ/FXTQBQFSt'FCSVBSZ t YORK WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Collar Me Beautiful NEW YORK — Donna Karan celebrated her 25th year at her house with a chic, urbane fall collection, which was mostly black. Highlights included great furs and terrific coats. Here, one striking example in a play of fur and leather textures with a bold collar, a leading motif in the collection. For more on the shows, see pages 10 to 20. A New Material Girl: Madonna Said in Talks To Launch Fashion Line By David Lipke */5)&(308*/(-07&"''"*3 CFUXFFODFMFCSJUZBOEGBTIJPO POFPGUIF CJHHFTUOBNFTPVUUIFSFJTDMPTFUPHFUUJOHJOUP the groove: Madonna. 5IFQPQJDPOJTJOUBMLTUPMBVODIB DPOUFNQPSBSZXPNFOTDPMMFDUJPOXJUI BHSPVQPGMJDFOTFFTUIBUXPVMECFTPME FYDMVTJWFMZBU.BDZT BDDPSEJOHUPTPVSDFT 5IFNFSDIBOEJTFXPVMEJODMVEFBQQBSFM BDDFTTPSJFT JOUJNBUFTBOEGPPUXFBS-BCFM OBNFTVOEFSTFSJPVTDPOTJEFSBUJPOGPSUIF QSPEVDUMJOFTJODMVEF.BUFSJBM(JSMGPSUIF BQQBSFMBOE5SVUIPS%BSFGPSUIFMJOHFSJFBOE VOEFSXFBS i5SVUIPS%BSFwXBTUIFUJUMFPGBGJMN XIJDIEPDVNFOUFE.BEPOOBTHSPVOECSFBLJOH #MPOEF"NCJUJPOXPSMEXJEFDPODFSUUPVS See Madonna, Page4 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 2010 WWD.COM Scorsese Directs Chanel Scent Campaign By Julie Naughton Martin Scorsese, who is one of the best, if not WWDTUESDAY the best movie director alive today, is a privilege ACADEMY AWARD-WINNING DIRECTOR Chanel has been seeking for quite some time. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Martin Scorsese has taken a break from his “What was needed was the appropriate proj- FASHION usual tough-guy films to direct the TV commer- ect — i.e., the launch of Chanel’s new men’s fra- The New York collections rolled on with shows cial for Chanel’s next men’s fragrance. grance,” D’Avack said. “There is such an obvious S 10 The campaign, which will begin running glob- connection between the identity of the fragrance from Donna Karan, Zac Posen, Thom Browne, ally in September, features French actor Gaspard and the cinematic world of Martin Scorsese that Betsey Johnson and Carolina Herrera. Ulliel, who is the face of the partnership came to be,” GENERAL the new fragrance and will he said without elaboration. be featured in all advertis- Past cinematic Chanel 1 Madonna is in talks to launch a contemporary ing for the scent. Andrea pairings have included Nicole women’s collection that would be sold exclusively D’Avack, president of Kidman and Baz Luhrmann at Macy’s. Chanel Fragrance and and Audrey Tatou and Jean- 22 TEXTILES: There was a disparate focus on Beauté, declined to reveal Pierre Jeunet, both for Chanel heritage and price as a way to wow customers details about the scent, in- No.5 at different times. among the fabric firms at Première Vision. cluding its name. “Chanel works with movie The ads were shot ear- directors because they bring 24 Despite the support Maria Pinto received from lier this winter, D’Avack Martin Scorsese depth, emotion and what we call Michelle Obama, it wasn’t enough to sustain said on Monday. “The ads with Gaspard Ulliel. in French ‘a supplement of soul,’ her Chicago-based designer business. have been shot in New or an added dimension,” said J. Crew has signed a lease for its fourth men’s York, the city which is so 24 store in the New York area, on Madison Avenue, inherently part of Martin and is seeking more units outside the city. Scorsese’s cinemato- BEAUTY BEAT graphic vocabulary,” he said. D’Avack, pointing to films such as “Taxi Driver,” 26 Sears Holdings Corp. has named Tara Poseley, This confirms a report that ran in WWD on “Raging Bull,” and “Goodfellas” as examples of former president of Bebe Sport, as president Jan. 12. Scorsese’s vision. “In the case of Martin Scorsese, of Kmart Apparel for in-store and online. “Chanel has a tradition several decades long we knew we would definitely have a man’s world Chip & Pepper, a pioneering brand in premium of working with the most prominent movie direc- full of complexity that is also adrenaline-driven, 27 denim, is switching to a licensed business tors in the world,” D’Avack said. “To work with and of course, amazing images.” model with lower price points for fall. EYE At a time when much in the fashion industry feels 6 uncertain, Diane von Furstenberg’s fashion week Profit and Sales Down at L’Oréal after party has remained a constant. PARIS — L’Oréal’s net profits declined and its 2008, L’Oréal’s sales dipped 3.5 percent to 4.47 Thom Browne MAGIC is included as a Section II in this issue. sales dipped slightly in 2009. Meanwhile, the billion euros, or $6.6 billion. Classified Advertisements.................................................................................................27 French beauty giant said it is poised to return to The company’s total cosmetics business declined TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS growth this year. 4 percent to 4.08 billion euros, or $6.02 billion. [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. L’Oréal posted net profits of 1.79 billion euros, Within that, the professional products divisions’ WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 or $2.5 billion, in the 12 months ended Dec. 31, revenues fell 6.7 percent to 581.6 million euros, or FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 35. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one down 8 percent on the same prior-year period. $859.1 million. Sales from consumer products were additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, Its operating profits decreased 5.4 percent down 0.2 percent to 2.07 billion euros, or $3.1 bil- and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance to 2.58 billion euros, or $3.59 billion. L’Oréal’s lion. The luxury products division posted revenues Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice research and development expenses were 3.5 of 1.16 billion euros, or $1.71 billion, a 9.1 percent President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and percent of sales, versus 3.3 percent in 2008. decrease, while active cosmetics generated 260.1 at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Advertising and promotional expenditure was million euros, or $384.2 million, a 3.4 percent dip. Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 30.8 percent of revenues, against 30 percent dur- In Western Europe, sales of L’Oréal’s cosmet- 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ing the previous year. Selling, general and ad- ics dropped 6.9 percent to 1.71 billion euros, or ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit ministrative expenses were 21.4 percent of sales, $2.53 billion. They fell 10.4 percent to 904.6 mil- www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address down 10 basis points on-year. lion euros, or $1.34 billion, in North America, within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are L’Oréal registered a 0.4 percent revenue decline and in the rest of the world, they rose 4.5 per- ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production in 2009 to 17.47 billion euros, or $24.37 billion. On cent to 1.46 billion euros, or $2.15 billion. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, a like-for-like basis, sales fell 1.1 percent. Also in the fourth quarter, The Body Shop please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Dollar figures are converted at average ex- registered sales of 240.9 million euros, or $355.8 Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not change rates for the period. million, a 2 percent decrease. L’Oréal’s revenues want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or In fourth-quarter 2009 versus fourth-quarter from its dermatology business gained 10.3 per- call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY cent to 151.2 million euros, OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS.
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