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IS 1640 (2007): Glossary of terms relating to hides, skins and leather [CHD 17: Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products]

“ान एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge”

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IS 1640:2007

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Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TO HIDES, SKINS AND LEATHER (First Revision,)

ICS 01.040.59; 59.140.20

0 BIS 2007

BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002

December 2007 Price Group 16 Leather Tanning Materials and Allied Products Sectional Committee, CHD 17

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard (First Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products Sectional Committee had been approved by the Chemical Division Council.

The leather industry occupies a privileged position in the trade table of this country. Of late, the development of an expanding export market for finished leather goods has further heightened the interest in this industry. In order to facilitate unambiguous exchange of commercial and scientific information within the industry, and to inculcate an increasing scientific bias in the use of terms, current in the leather trade, the standard was first published in 1960.

In the preparation of this glossary, most of the indigenous terms in use in the Indian hides, skins and leather trade, together with their synonyms and common terms in vogue, have been included. The glossm-y, however, limits itself strictly to terms related to hides, skins and leather; terms relating to footwear and other trades, general, chemical and Other terms pertaining to proprietary and patented items being not included. Terms which may be commonly used in the leather industry but convey commonly accepted dictionary meanings have been excluded.

[n this revision, additional terms have been added and a few terms which have lost significance have been deleted, It is hoped that this glossary will prove useful to the leather trade in general and the Indian leather industry in particular.

The composition of the Committee for formulation of this standard is given in Annex A.

This standard is intended chiefly to cover the technical definitions of terms. and it may not necessarily include all the legal implications of the terms.

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IS 1640:2007

Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TO HIDES, SKINS AND LEATHER (First Revision )

1 SCOPE Acid Colours — Group of aniline dyes which are compounds of organic acids and an inorganic base, This standard defines the terms strictly relating to hides, usually sodium hydroxide. A strong acid, such as skins and in the Indian leather trade and industry. sulphuric or formic acid, has to be added to the dye 2 TERMINOLOGY bath in order to liberate the organic acids which are responsible for the dyeing (see also ‘Dye ‘). A Acid Number — The quantity of base, expressed in A —Abbreviation used by exporters of hides to denote milligrams of potassium hydroxide that is required to the following descriptions of hides — Agras, neutralize the acid constituents present in one gram of Assortment. Thus, a bale of hides marked A denotes oil, fat, wax and fatty acid. the Assortment Agra. Acid Salt Ratio — The ratio of acids and total neutral Aarhat — Warehouses or godowns for hides and skins salt present in the tanning material or its extract, both where dealers bring hides and skins for sale. There are being expressed in terms of milliequivalent per 100 g several such godowns in centres like Agra, Amritsar, of air dried material. It is a measure of astringency of Calcutta, Delhi, Julhmdur, Kanpur, etc, and they a vegetable tanning material. constitute what are known as hide markets. The buyers, Acid Soaking — Soaking with the addition of acid to chietly exporters and tanners come to these aar%ats to accelerate the process in respect of hides and skins make their purchases. cured by drying. Aarhatdar— The proprietor of an aai-hat, who acts as Acidity — In the leather trade, the term represents the a commission and selling agent for the beparis. Usually acid content of the liquor (tan liquor) which is he finances the beparis by advancing him the value of expressed in terms of milligram equivalent per litre. a consignment against railway receipt and he is Actually, acidity represents the hydrogen ion (H+) or responsible for the safe keeping of goods until sold. hydronium ion (H30+) concentration and as the degree The aarhatdar negotiates terms and prices with the of dissociation for different acids varies, acidity is buyers and the beparis are not usually allowed to generally expressed in terms ofpH value. The term is interfere. For this service, the aarhatdar charges a also used for referring to the acidity of tanned leathers. commission from the bepari. Acrylic Syntan — Essentially a polymer of acrylic Aarhatdari — The commission that a bepari has to and/or methacrylic acid with a small amount of an agent pay to an aarhatdar when his goods are sold. like sodium alginate incorporated into the polymer. Abrasion Resistance — The reciprocal of the loss in Acorn Cup — See CValonia’. thickness of leather after a definite amount of abrasive action on it. An important property of sole leather. Activated Sludge Process —A biological wastewater treatment process in which a mixture of wastewater Abyssinia Hides — Abyssinian cattle are of the zebu and activated sludge is agitated and aerated. The type with a definite hump. The raw hide is usually activated sludge is subsequently separated from the washed to give ‘bathed’ hides. The chief cwntre of the treated wastewater by sedimentation or returned to the trade is the town ofAddis Ababa, from which is derived process as need may be. the common trade description of all Abyssinian hides as ‘Addis Ababa Bathed’ or ‘Addis Ababa Unbathed’. Ageing — Keeping or resting in a heap or pile for a certain time with a view to maturing or seasoning. Acid Bate — Bates that can be used in thepH range of 3-5; active even at 20”C; smoothens the grain; less Aggregation — The dyestuffs and vegetable tannins drastic than alkaline bates; can be used on chromed form addition compound but the degree of aggregation stock also after an acid wash to remove the free chrome depends largely on ionic groups present. This to an in the leather. extent controls the dyeing of leathers.

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Agras — These are well-cleaned dry-cured hides of Alum Tanning or Tannage — A technique of good leather substance, the flesh side of which is preparing leather solely with a mixture the essential yellowish in colour (see also ‘Jullunders’ and ‘A’). active ingredient of which is an aluminium salt, often, but not ecessarily alum, for example, alum, salt, egg Air-Dried Hides — Hides cured by exposure of the yolk and flour. The natural colour of the leather is white flesh side to mild rays of the sun until they are dry. (see also ‘Tawing Paste’). Airing Off — Slightly drying the stock (leather) after Ammunition Leather — Vegetable, chrome and application of finish. combination tanned leather curried and finished for Airless Spray — Spraying with hydraulic pressure making military boots (see ‘Army Grain’ and ‘Russet’), instead of compressed air. Amphoteric Syntan — Aliphatic amines condensed Air Speed Drying — Very rapid air drying in which with novolaks using Mannich reaction in organic relatively high temperatures and controlled humidity solvents. The products are soluble in water though there are used. are no sulfonic groups and are amphoteric in character. Albumins — A kind of simple corpuscular proteins Amritsars — A variety of goatskins now collected containing sulphur and coagulable by heat and soluble from Punjab and Rajasthan. On account of their large in water itself (for example, egg albumin known as spread, they are sought-after for upholstery and egg white). carriage work. Alcohol Precipitation Value — This value gives a Angle of Weave — See ‘Weave, Angle of’. measure of the total soluble matter in a tannin solution which may be precipitated by absolute alcohol. It is Angular Spray — Spraying of finishes at different determined as follows: angles to produce a two-tone effect; also known as Shadow spray. Take 10 ml of 2.5 percent tannin solution and evaporate to dryness to give the total soluble matter. Analytical Strength Solution — A solution of Take another 10 ml of solubles in a 100 ml graduated 04 + 0.025 percent tannin content. flask and make up to the mark with absolute alcohol, shake and filter. Evaporate 50 ml of the filtrate in a Aniline Dyed — Leather that has been dyed with small flask. The weight of the residue is subtracted aniline dyes and has not received any colour from from the weight of total solubles obtained earlier pigmented finish. and the difference is expressed as percentage of the Aniline Dyes — Dyes synthesized from coal-tar total soluble matter precipitated by alcohol. products also known as synthetic dyes. Aldehyde Leather — White washable leather prepared Aniline Finish — Basically a dye based finish with or usually from sheep or lambskin splits or degrains and without a trace of organic pigments. tanned with formaldehyde or other aldehydes. Aniline Finished —A natural or dyed leather finished Algaroba — Dry pods of Caesalpinia brevifolium by application of transparent surface coating, clear or Baill., fare. Leguminosae, contain a vegetable tanning coloured with dye. material; the tan content varying from about 45 to 50 percent. Aniline Leather — Leather finished with transparent finishing materials so that the grain pattern may be Algin — Term referring to alginic acid and its visible. derivatives, that is, sodium, potassium, ammonium or propylene glycol alginate, etc (see also ‘Irish Moss’). Aniline Stained — Leather that has been stained by Alkaline Bating — Bating with either pancreatic or brushing, padding or spraying aniline dyes and has not microbial enzymes, which are active in the alkaline received any coating of pigmented finish. range, usually pH 8. Anionic Fatliquor — Emulsion of fats and oils in Alligator — A closely allied species of crocodile. which the colloidal droplets of oil and fats are negatively charged, for example, fat liquor made with Alligator Grained Leather — Imitation embossed soap solution. alligator grain which is put on various types of leather such as calf, sheep or side upper as distinguished from Annatto — A dye of vegetable origin, orange-red in the genuine reptilian leather. colour obtained from fruits of a shrub Bixa orellana Linn., fare. Bixaceae., a native tree of South America. Aluminium Tanning — Tanning with basic aluminium sulphate stabilized with a masking agent like citrate. Antelope -– A kind of deer. In the glove trade, the Tanning is completed by basifying topH 4.2. term is used to describe a fine soft leather with a velvety,

2 IS 1640:2007 lustrous nap made from antelope or gazelle skin, Army Grain — Embossed grained leather used for sueded on the flesh side. military leather goods (see also ‘Ammunition Leather’ and ‘Russet’). Antelope Finish, Suede — Lambskin, goatskin or calfskin sueded and finished to resemble antelope. Aspergillus Niger — One of the most common mould growths found vegetable tanning vats and on leather, Anthrax — An acute disease in animals caused by a usually greenish or blackish colour. spore forming rod-shaped organism Bacillus anthracis. Assorters — Experts in selection and sorting of hides Anthrax Bacillus — The micro-organism that and skins, known in the raw hide trade asj”achandars. produces anthrax. They are usually employed by the purchasing firms. Anthrax Spore — A resistant form of Bacillus They come to the aarhat, sort the hides and act as the anthr-acis which gives the anthrax infection. buyer’s judges about the price they can pay on assorter’s report. Assorters also grade hides and skins Anti-blushing Agent —A material added to a lacquer in shippers’ godown for export. to prevent precipitation of one or more of the solid Assortment of Hides — Classification of hides is constituents of the lacquer (see also ‘Blushing’). done on the basis otl (a) region; (b) cure, that is, dry Antique Grain — A surface pattern of markings or salted (nimkis) or wet salted; (c) quality, that is creases, usually irregular, in which the hollows or slaughtered (halali), deads (murdari), rejections valleys are given a contrasting colour to produce a two- oirta), or double rejections; and (d) weight, namely, tone or two-colour effect. The creases are produced lights, mediums or heavies. Each of the above regional by embossing, boarding or other similar means. and cure classification items are again sorted according to quality, for example, slaughtered Antique Leather — Leather of rough, irregular and (halali), deads (murdarr), rejections (jirta) and double wrinkled grain produced by pleating the skins and rejections. creasing them lightly in sacks or nets and treating them in strong tan solutions. Antique leathers are dyed to Astringency — lt is the property of contracting the multi-coloured effects. The leather is used for fimiture tissues shown by many chemicals including tannins, and automobile upholstering. but in its generic sense it refers to the peculiar sensation of contraction or constriction on the tongue produced Apron Leather — Leather made from heavy by substances containing tannins. sheepskins or cattle hide splits and used in making NOTE –-A numerical classification of the various tannins and apron, or dress for the forepart of the body. vegetable tanning materials according to their degree of Aqueous Finishes — Finishes dispersed in water astringency is not possible, since a number of factors are involved. The astringency appears to be a function of the medium. molecular size of the tannin, the proportion of tannin to total solubIes (degree of purity), the hydrogen ion concentration of Arabian Goatskins — Tine skins from Arabia. These the solution, the electrical charge of the particles, nature of are of good texture and reasonably fine grain. They anions and neutral salts present (acid-salt ratio), temperature, and tannin content of the solution, are usually well flayed and ei%ciently preserved by salting. Automobile Leather — Leather used for upholstering Arabian Sheep — The Arabian sheep are of two classes, motor car cushions. namely: (a) black faced (or black headed), and (b) white Avaram, Tarwad or Tawar — A shrub, Cassia faced. The hairy covering of both types is not sotl enough auriculata Buch. Ham., fare. Leguminosze, growing to be classed as wool and is of little value. These sheep in Southern, Western and Central India. The dried are small and not overfed so that the skin arc not greasy avcwam bark delivered to Indian tanneries usually has nor is their texture 100SCor weak. a tannin content of about 18 percent with about 10 percent of soluble non-tans. It is the most valuable Areolar Tissue — The fibrous and fatty tissues which tan stuff found in India, and is extensively used in Tamil connect hide or skin loosely to the underlying parts of Nadu and Maharashtra for the production of East India the animal body. tanned leather. Areolar Tissue Sheath —A form of loose connective Ayeb — Flaw, defect. tissue composed of cells and delicate collagen and elastic fibres interlacing in all directions and enclosing B hide tibres. B — An abbreviation denoting the best quality, for Arm Staking — A process employed to soften skin example, BDS, meaning Best Dacca Slaughtered; by hand. MBS, meaning Best Meherpur Slaughtered.

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Babul Bark, Kikar — The babul or kika~ tree Acacia Bag Trade Split — Split obtained from bag making aruhicu Wind., fare. Leguminosaz; the bark of this tree industry. is the most important tanning material of northern Banaras Hide — A variety of cow hide obtainable India. Large supplies are obtained from Uttar Pradesh from the East and South East of Uttar Pradesh. They and the Punjab while a fair amount is also obtained arc not as spready as Patnas and Darbhangas. They are from Bengal. The tannin content of the bark varies; air-dried and are usually fairly clean-fleshed. sometimes it is as high as 20 percent, but the average of the bark delivered to the tanneries is about 12 Band Knife — An endless band of steel sharpened cm percent. The pods which contain 12 to 19 percent of one edge. tannin or 18 to 27 after the removal of seeds, arc used Band Knife Splitting Machine — Splitting machine for making a fairly light coloured firm leather. The fitted with a band knife used for splitting the hides and Sudan pods, called Santpods (tannin content of 40 skins laterally into different layers. percent in de-seeded pods), are used in local tanneries to produce a pinkish-white leather of good quality. Barbed Wire Scratches — Scratches in hides and skins caused by protruding points of barbed wire. Bachheras or Bachus — Hindi names for calfskins often used in the trade. 13areilly Hide — Hides from Bareilly, Rampur, Moradabad and the adjoining region of Uttar Pradesh. Back — Butt with the shoulder portion. Barometer — A modified hydrometer used for Back Boarding — Boarding leather with flesh side measuring the density of tan liquors. in, merely to soften it. OBk = (sp gr-1 ) x 1000 Bacterial Flora — Total content of bacteria. Bark, Quercitron — Bark of Querctis velutinu Lam. Badly Shaped Head -—Head cut off along a line which SYn. Q. ~iHCfOYiUBark and Q. %- Linn. ‘Quercitron is not perpendicular to its longitudinal axis. Bark’). fare. Fagaceze, used in tanning and for dyeing. (see also ‘Quercitron Bark’). Badly Shaped Shanks — Shanks cut off along a line which is not perpendicular to its longitudinal axis. Bark Tannage — The process of tanning hides and skins with vegetable tanning materials. Bag Hide —A leather produced usually from cowhide by vegetable tanning for making various kinds of bags, Bark Tanned — Leather vegetable tanned mainly by trunks, suitcases and other travel goods. The Icather is means of the tannins contained in the barks of trees, flexible and may be plain or embossed in attractive the hides and skins in process coming in contact with patterns, gbat grain being the most common and the raw bark. coloured. It is split to a suitable thickness and Bark Wattle, Bark Mimosa — One of the most sometimes hand or machine boarded. important tanning materials. Besides the black wattle Bag Tannage — An indigenous process of tanning in Acacia mearnsii De Wind., syn. A. mollis-sima auct. which delimed hides after pre-tanning lightly in light non Wind., A. decurrens Wind. var mollis Lindl., fare. tan liquor are sewn up in bags of which onc cnd is Leguminosae, there are several other Australian wattles open. The bags are tilled with ground tanstuffs and that have been exploited or cultivated as a source of hung from an overhead horizontal pole over a shallow tan-bark; notable amongst these being the green wattle earthenware vat or masonry pit. Water is poured into (Acacio decun-ens Wind.), the silver or blue wattle the bag at its open end or mouth and is allowed to Acacio ealbata Link. syn. A. deczwens Wind. var. percolate through the tanstuff, extracting the tannin dealbata Maiden. and the golden wattle (Acacia therefrom. The tan liquor so formed 00ZCSout through pycnantha Benth.). The black, green and the silver the pores of the hide and drips into the vat underneath. wattle (as known in South Africa) are closely allied The liquor which collects in the vat is taken in a bucket species and were at one time regarded as different and poured in at the top of the bag over and over again. varieties of the same species Acacia decwrens. The The repeated percolation of the liquor through the tannin content of the silver wattle is usually about 20 tanstuff makes it gradually stronger enabling the hide percent but its tanning effect is much darker than the tibrcs to absorb more and more tannin. Continuance black wattle. The green wattle possesses bark, equally of the process for 6 to 8 days is sufficient for tanning rich in tannin as that of the black wattle (30 to 45 even a thick buffalo hide through. It is a very quick percent), but produces a much more highly coloured tanning process and is extensively practiced in India leather. The golden wattle bark contains a high on a cottage scale for making sole leather from buffalo proportion of tannin (over 40 percent) even higher than hides. Usually babul bark is used for tanning in North that of the black wattle, but yields a more highly India and spent myrabolan liquor in South India. coloured infusion.

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Two species of wattle, namely, Acacia dealbata Link., Bate Pricks — Pin holes visible on overbated hides and Acacia decuwerzs Wind., have been introduced in and skins. the Indian sub-continent, especially in South India. Bate Burns — Skins damaged by too violent an action Samples of South Indian Wattle have been found to of bacterial bates. contain 39 percent tannin.

Wattle extract has proved particularly well suited to Bath, Chromic Acid (Chromic Acid Liquor) — A the rapid methods of tanning heavy leather. One of the name applied to the chromic bath used as the first bath advantages of the extract is that it does not form sludge in the two-bath chrome tanning process. in the tan pit to any extent. Bath, Hypo (Hypo Liquor) — Name applied to the Bark, Willow — Bark of the willow tree, Salix spp., solution of hypo used as the second or the reducing fare. Salicaceae. bath in the two-bath process of chrome tanning.

Baseball Leather — Leather used for covers of Bath, Reducing — Reducing liquor or hypo bath. baseballs. The better grades of balls have covers of Batik Effect — Dye designs made by dyes diffusing alum-tanned horsehide. Some cheaper grades are made through the cracks on a fabric coated with a sizing of kip and sheepskins. material (i.e. materials which can be removed later on Basic Dyestuffs — See ‘Dyes’. by washing starch or wax). Cracking can be brought Basicity of Chromic Sulphate — When pure chromic about in a variety of ways such as staking, dry milling, su]phatc is dissolved in water, it reacts chemically with embossing, etc. water and produces an acid solution. More than one Baume — A calibration scale (for liquids, especially half of the acid thus formed can be neutralized with acids) that is reducible to sp gr by the following alkali, without causing precipitation of chromium formulae: hydroxide. The proportion of the acid that has been neutralized, to that producible from the pure chromic a) For liquids heavier than water sp gr = 145/ salt, expressed in percentage, is termed as the percent (145 - n) at 60”F. basicity of the chromic salt. b) For liquids lighter than water sp.gr. = 140/ (130 + n) at 60”F. Basitication — Treating the mineral tanned stock with a mild alkali like sodium bicarbonate with a view to where n is the reading on the Baume scale form large aggregate of metallic compounds: abbreviated as “Be.

a) By putting in additional OH groups onto the 1°Be = 6.9”BK metal complex so that linear polymerization of the metal complex takes place through Bazar Hides — Hides of inferior quality, indifferently elation, and cured, by air and sun-drying. On drying, they crumple up and often contain rotten spots or sun blisters. They b) By forming additional ionized carboxyls nccdcd are also badly cleaned or contain a good deal of flesh, for complexation with the tanning metal. claws etc. Basicity — See Schorlemmer basicity, Proctor basicity and Freiberg basicity. Beam — A convex, wooden slab covered on top with zinc sheet, placed at a downward slope to the floor, Basil — Undyed and unfinished vegetable tanned Alternatively, the split or hollowed trunk of a palm tree sheep or lambskin, of comparatively large size. may be used. Raw stock is placed on the beam for Bastard —A term applied to sheep having hair. There trimming, fleshing, unhairing or scudding by hand. is no biological verification of the notion that sheep Beam House — Department of tannery in which raw and goats will interbreed producing a sheep with hair. stock is washed, soaked, limed, unhaired, bated and Bate — A mixture of deliming chemical and prepared for tanning. proteolytic enzymes, used for removal of mm-essential Beam House Operations — Soaking, liming, proteins like globular proteins, mucins, elastins and unhairing, fleshing, deliming, scudding, bating and residues of keratin by chemically reacting and pickling. dissolving them along with some fats from limed hides and skins. They also remove lime from hides and skins Beaver Lamb — Sheep or lamb skin with short fine besides the others. Bates contain proteolytic and lipatic wool, which has been dressed with the wool on, dyed enzymes and suitable deliming chemicals. Bating and finished by a process giving a weather-resistant renders the final leather fine and silky on the surface straightness and brightness to the wool lustered by and soft and supple to the feel. ironing with formaldehyde on a rotary iron.

5 — . .-

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Bellows Hide — Curried, flexible and air-proof leather Bleaching (1) ——The process of removing oxidized made from split hide, used for making bellows. tannins and insoluble materials from the surface layers of leather, in order to prevent cracking of the grain Belly —Part of hide from under side of animal, usually and to lighten the colour. It is performed by dipping less valuable than other portions. In flaying, hides arc the leather in a weak acidic solution to render the tannin slit along the centre line of the belly so that when the readily soluble, dipping again in water, neutralizing in hide is taken off, the belly is divided into two halves weak acid solution and washing. one lying on each side of the hide. Bleaching (2) — The process of lightening the colour Belting Butts –- Butts tanned and finished for making of chrome leather by suitable chemical treatment or machine belting. precipitating white pigment in the surface of the leather. Belting Butt — The butt portion of selected cattle hide Bleaching Extract — Extract used for making the that has been specially tanned, curried and dressed to co!our of dark tanned leather light and pale. produce strong, flexible leather with minimum stretch, suitable for the manufacture of transmission belting. Bleaching Syntan -– Auxiliary syntan which when complexed to chrome in a chrome leather makes its Belting Lace — Chrome tanned back, about 2.5 mm blue colour lighter. thick, heavily dressed with natural grease, suitable for cutting into strips for the purpose of joining Bleeding — The transfer of materials exuded from transmission belting. leather to other material that comes into contact with NOTE — The oil-treated back is generally known as ‘Helvctia it. It is usually designated as staining, leather’. Blended Tannin Extracts — Mixed extracts like Belting Leather — Leather for machine belting myrobalan and GOR4N or mangroves, or myrobalan generally made from the butt portion of high grade and cutch, etc, used to attain optimum yield and desired cattle hides. quality in leather ( see Tanning Extract).

Belt Leather — Leather used for waist belts. It is Blisters — Damages on skins usually caused by usually considered a subclass of fancy leather and putrefaction as a result of bad or insufficient curing, usually made from cattle hides, sheep and goatskins. preservation or sun-drying.

Bend — Half of a hide with the shoulders and belly Block Printing — Printing using separate wooden portions trimmed off. It is the best portion of the hide. blocks having curved designs for each colour. The total Bends of thick hides are used for making SOICSof boots appearance will be the cumulative effect of all the and shoes, machine belting, etc. colours applied. Bengal Blacks — See ‘Lizard Skins’ Bloom –- A light-coloured deposit of ellagic acid Beparis — Dealers in hides and skins who collect hides appearing on the grain surface of leather tanned with and skins in the villages or from slaughter houses and certain pyrogallol tannins, such as myrobalans, valonia, sell them in larger centres. and divi-divi. The appearance may be objectionable for some purposes, but bloom does not significantly Binder — A filmogen or film forming polymeric affect the other physical properties of the leather. material used to bind pigment particles tenaciously to the surface of the leather. Blue — Usually in the phrase ‘in the blue’. Applied to hides or skins that have been chrome-tanned but not Birch Oil — See ‘Oil, Birch.’ dyed nor fatliquored. Bisulphiting — The treatment given to hot solutions Blushing — A milky opalescence which sometimes of vegetable tan extracts with sodium bisulphitc in develops on leather as a film of lacquer dries and is order to increase their solubilities. due to the deposition of moisture from the air or Black Catechu — According to Pharmacopoeia of precipitation, of one or more of the solid constituents India, 1966, black catechu is synonymous with of the lacquer or due to both these conditions. KA TTHA. It consists of the dried aqueous extracts Boarded Leather — Leather grained or creased up prepared from the heartwood of Acacia catechu Wind by working with a cork faced board. This working is and Acacia chundra Wind. called boarding or graining because it produces Blackwood — A native of Australia Acacia different patterns on the grain side of the leather. It melanoxylon R. Br. introduced in India, common in also softens the leather considerably. Boarding is also the Nilgiris; the bark contains approximately 13 percent done by boarding machine consisting of cork or rubber tannins. covered rollers.

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Boarding — To strike a grain pattern on the leather. lost and the value of the entire hide is considerably This was done formerly by working the leather in a reduced. suitable manner with a cork faced wooden board from Bran Drench — A fermented infusion of wheat bran which the operation has derived the name. It can also extensively used in tanneries for deliming. be achieved by machines. The operation is also known as graining (see ‘Gaining’). Branding — The treatment of pelt with bran infusion. Branning opens up the pores of the skin besides Boardy —Adjective applied to stiff, inflexible leather. dissolving the lime in the pelt. Boil Test — Testing a piece of fully hydrated leather Brazil Wax —Also called camauba wax. It is obtained to check whether there is any shrinkage after placing as an exudation from the leaves of the wax palm in boiling water for 2-3 minutes only. When the leather Coperniia cerzfera Mart., fare. Palmae. It is one of the retains the original area, chrome tanning is considered hardest and most expensive of the commercial waxes. completed. Brazil Wood — Peach wood or pemambuco wood Bookbinding Leather — Leather generally made from obtained from Caesal-pinia echinatu Lam., fare. calf, sheep and goatskins and used for bookbinding. Leguminosae and several Brazilian spp. which yield a Bot Fly, Warble Fly — Of the family Oestridae, many red colouring matter called brasilin. With alum species of which produce holes in the backbone region mordant, it produces a red shade and with chrome of the hide. mordant a violet shade. It is used to some extent in Ieathcr dyeing. Bottom Hide — Hide used for making shoe bottoms. Breaking Iron — Blunt iron knife used for breaking Bottoming — Coating the surface of leather with a hides on the beam. solution of mucilage or like material, for closing the pores of the leather. This serves as the foundation for Breaking on Beam — Dry hides and skins are often finishes. laid upon the beam after soaking and worked on the flesh side with a blunt unhairing knife which scrapes Bottom Leather — Leather used for shoe bottoms. off bits of the adhering flesh and softens the hides and Bound Organic Substance — The difference between skins by its stretching action. 100 and the sum of the values of the percentage of Break of Leather — The tiny wrinkles formed on the volatile matter, water insoluble ash, solvent extractable grain surface of leather when it is bent, grain inward substances, hide substances and water soluble in a fine break. There are many fine wrinkles per linear substances in a leather. It is expressed as percent by unit in contrast to a coarse break. weight of a leather. Bridle Leather — Strong, flexible type of harness Box Calf — Formerly, a full-chrome flexible black leather of reasonably uniform thickness with a plain calf leather with a fine box grain produced by boarding finish and a close shaved flesh. Made from ox or cow the leather in two directions. An identical leather in hide, vegetable tanned and curried. brown is called willow calf but these distinctions arc losing much of this significance as box calf is now Brined, Dry — Hides or skins treated with brine and made in a wide range of colours. Principally used for dried or dry salted. footwear but also for hand bags, golf bags, etc. Brined, Wet — Hides and skins treated with brine and Box Finish — The finish in which the leather is glazed kept wet or wet salted. and boarded two-way, once from neck to butt and then Brisket — The part of the hide covering the breast. from belly to belly. Bronze Leather — A variety of leather which is Box Grain — The two-way boarding of box finish purposely finished with a bronze appearance. Bronze which produces fair, square shaped creases on the grain leathers are made by staining with concentrated surface of the leather. solution of basic aniline dyes or by coating the leather Box Sides — Leather manufactured from cattle hides with bronze powder or leaf. by the chrome process and finished with box grain. Bronzing (1) — Excessive concentration of The hide is slit into two halves along the spine, each of crystallized dyestuff on the surface of the leather which is called a side. tending to give a metallic sheen. Bronzing is a dichroic Branded Hides — Hides with marks of scars caused effect produced by light reflected from the surface of by drawing various figures on the body of cattle with a the dyed leather. This happens when a spot has a red hot iron. The portion of the hide thus branded is different refractive index from the environment.

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Bronzing effect is obtained when Icather becomes Buffed Leather — Leather from which the top surface brown on exposure to sun. of the flesh side has been removed by an abrasive or bladed cylinder or, less generally, by hand. In the case Bronzing (2) — Making leather brown by exposure of upholstery leather the buffing process is invariably to the sun or making it shine with a metallic lustre. carried out by machine though it is sometimes Bruising — Softening leather by flexing grain incorrectly described as ‘hand buffed’. See Corrected outwards. grain, Machine buff.

Brush Coat — The second coat of varnish applied in Buffing ––A very light cut of grain portion taken from finishing patent leather. the surface of cattle hide. An operation to produce a fine nap on leather by the action of an emery wheel Brush Colouring — The application of dyestuff to (see also ‘Fluffing’ and ‘Snuffing’). leather with a brush or swab, the leather being laid on a table. Also called table dyeing. Buffing (1) — The thin grain layer of leather removed from a cattle hide by the splitting machine. In Spain Brush-Off Effect — Brushed appearance. The brush the buffing may be from any hide or skin. marks are made as follows: Over the pigmented resin coat having excellent adhesion and flexibility with Buffing (2) — The process of more or less removing complete coverage, a high gloss, clear lacquer coat is the flesh layer by abrasion. See also Buffed leather. applied and plated. A third lacquer coat with a Buffing (3) — Removal of the flesh side of the leather contrasting colour is applied. The film formed now by mechanical abrasion to produce a suede effect or to should be tough enough to provide the usual resistance reduce the substance. Synonymous with flu fflng and properties, yet soft enough to be removed by the now in more common use. In Spain the buffhg may brushing action. The clear lacquer underneath is a be from any hide or skin. In North America the thin guarantee that the brushing action does not go through grain layer of leather removed from cattle hide by the the base coat. Now, a rotating brush is applied to the splitting machine. tinish surface and the surface finish layer is removed to make a contrast with the base coat colour. The degree Buffing Slicker — Hand slicker used for removing of contrast is controlled during brushing. the coarse fibres of the flesh side of leather in the manufacture of russet and waxed leather. . Brushing Machine — A machine to sweep or clean with a brush; a scouring machine. Buff Leather — An oil leather, flexible and dry, manufactured after the grain side has been scoured off. Buck — Actually, leather from the skins of a male deer. The leather is made from buffalo hides as well as from It is the same as buckskin but nowadays, the tarn is heavy ox and cow hides, usually by tanning with fatty applied to suede shoe upper leather, dressed and substances. It possesses a cream or white surface and finished in the same way as real buckskin though not is finished on the grain side with a velvet like nap. It is made from deerskin. used for polishing of metals.

Buck Side — Cattle hide shoe upper leather with grain Buffs — Abbreviated form for buffaloes. surface buffed to simulate genuine buckskin. Buff-Sole — An abbreviation for sole leather made Buckskin — Soft leather made of deerskins or Bulkskins from buffalo hide. used for shoes and gloves and to some extent in clothing. Buffer Index — The number in ml of 1 N hydrochloric Leather finished from the split or under cut of deerskin acid or 1 N sodium hydroxide solution required to be must be described as ‘split skin’. Only the outer cut of added to 100 ml of tannin infusion or liquor at 20”BK the skin from which the surface grain has been removed in order to alter its pH by 1 unit. For accuracy, the may be correctly defined as genuine buckskin. buffer index should be determined on a portion of the Buffalo Hides or Buff-Hides — The skins of a buffalo, titration curve corresponding to at least 2 pH units and Bos bubalus. Buffaloes are principally found in the lying between pH 2.5 and 5.0. states of Assam, Bihar, Tamil Nadu, Orissa, Punj ab and Burnishable Leathers — Leathers, which develop a Uttar Pradesh. polish on being rubbed just as in the case of boot Buffalo Liming — A method of liming which was polishing. The special effect is achieved by the practised in America in which hides were first treated inclusion of a wax treatment in the effect coat with a solution of calcium chloride followed by a formation. solution of caustic soda. Burnishing — Polishing by machine to give the shoe Buff Calf — Leather made from the skin of a young upper a bright, glossy finish. On better grade shoes. or immature buffalo. the sole and heel edges are washed and burnished. 8 1S lb4U : LUU’/

Burring — Cleaning sheepskins with wool on. Calf Split — Split of a calfskin or the flesh layer of a calfskin. Bursting Strength — Strength of leather to resist bursting or cracking of the grain under strain. Calf, Waxed — Vegetable tanned calf leather curried and finished on the flesh side with a wax composition. Butcher Cuts — Cuts or gashes in hides and skins caused by butchers while flaying. Calgon -–- Sodium polymctaphosphate with a degree of polymerization of 15 to 20 and molecular weight in Butt — A roughly rectangular part of a hide the range of 1500 to 2000. That is (NaPO~) 15-20. representing the part covering the back and upper regions of animal and remaining after the shoulder Campeachy Wood — See ‘Logwood’. and belly portions are cut off. The butt is the best Canaigre — A variety of vegetable tanstuff grown in portion of the hide being the thickest and most America. compact in structure. When cut along the centre, the butt divides into two halves each of which is called a Capeskin or Cape Leather — Term commonly bend. applied to all glove and garment leather made from sheepskins with the natural grain retained. This should Butt Split — The flesh layer obtained by splitting the be correctly confined to leather from South African butt by a splitting machine. hair sheep. Genuine capeskin from South Africa is a Butt Striking — A rapid succession of blows from a light, flexible, fine grained durable leather generally blunt edge upon the grain surface of the butt. The superior to the wool sheepskins of the same or other working tool is usually a steel blade or it may be a places. When used to designate capeskins other than slate like stone. The object is to remove bloom and the South African, it should be qualified as ‘Domestic reds from the grain of the leather. Capeskin’, ‘Spanish Capeskin’, etc. It should never be Batty — Hide or leather with thick butt. applied to a skiver.

c Captive Bolt — A pistol used as an alternative to the pole axe or knife for stunning, while slaughtering cattle. C — An abbreviation used by the hide shippers to When fired, a plunger or bolt in the barrel penetrates denote: (a) cow hides, (b) the classification the brain. Commissariats, and (c) cured. CCS mean Cow Commissariats Slaughtered. Card Clothing Leather — See ‘Card Leather’.

Cabretta — Skins of hair sheep or bastards. These Carding Leather — See ‘Card Leather’. have no wool, but straight hairlike a goat. They produce Card Leather, Card Clothing Leather or Carding a tough and tine leather suitable for gloves, shoes and Leather –- The three terms denote the same material. roller skins for mills. It is a sheet of leather, one surface of which is covered Calcium Soap — Soap produced by the combination with bent steel pins. It is used to cover the rollers of of fatty acids and lime. In the liming of hides and skins, carding machines used for opening up raw wool fibres. lime acts on the natural grease of hides and skins and Carpincho Wax — See ‘Brazil Wax’. gives a calcium soap which is mostly removed from hides and skins by the process called scudding. Carpincho — Grain gloving leather with a grain pattern somewhat like that of peccary, made from the Calcutta Kills — Goatskins of large size obtained from skin of a water rodent indigenous to Argentina, the goats slaughtered in Calcutta and its Uruguay and Brazil. One of the leathers commonly ncighbourhood. designated as Hogskin (see also ‘Gloving Leather’ and Calf— Leather manufactured from calfskins (see uko ‘Hogskin’). calf Icather). Carragheen — Extract of Irish moss. Calf, Dull Finished — A fine, close grained, flexible Carriage Leather — Leather used in upholstering the and durable leather with a dull finish. seats and sides of carriages and for making their hoods. Calf, Fallen -– Calfskin taken from a calf which has Case-Hardening (1) — Defect due to high fixation of died a natural death. tannins on the surface at the initial stage itself Calf Leather — A leather made from the skin of a preventing further diffusion of tannin into the skinlhide young or immature bovine animal (see also ‘Calf’). matrix.

Calf Skin — Skin of immature meat cattle. Cattle hides Case-Hardening (2) — Defect due to rapid drying of below a certain weight are classed as calfskins. green hides and skins during preservation or due to

9 L -11 _,J.1 ..~—... —..... ~. —— — --*— —. . ...— —e—. . _

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rapid drying of leathers after tanning preventing drying Chamois — Originally used for leather of a of inner layers of hide/skin or leather. characteristic type produced from genuine chamois pelts by oil tannage; now made by the same process Cased Skin — Skins which have been drawn off but from sheepskin splits left after the top grain has animals without being opened in the belly. Many been removed for the manufacture of skivers. Chamois sheepskins and goatskins appear on the market in this leather is also manufactured in India from goatskin fijrm. whose grain is shaved off. Case Hide — Firm dressed leather, stained or Chamois Goat — Suede finished, oil tanned goatskin otherwise coloured, generally having a smooth, more leather. or Icss glossy surface finish, sometimes embossed with an artificial grain. Made from full grain or buffed cattle Chaps and Fine Cracks — Bursting of the superficial hide, vegetable tanned and suitable for the manufacture or upper layer of sheep skins (grain-side), caused by of suit-cases, attache cases and similar leather goods. excessive stretching of the skin at the time of flaying.

Case Leather — Leather used for making leather Chauri Chauras — Hides and skins coming from cases. Similar to bag hide leather and strap leather. Chauri Chaura (Uttar Pradesh).

Cask -– In the leather trade, the term refers to a packing Cheeking — Reducing the thickness of heads of cmp]oycd for wet-salted hides and skins in wooden unhaired skin by splitting. barrels for export, Depending on the size of the Chestnut Extract — Tannin extract made from the individual hides and skins each cask contains about wood of either the European chestnut, Castanea satiua 125 to 175 pieces, the gross weight of the container Mills. or the American chestnut, Castanea den[ata, averaging between 385 to 410 kg. Borkh., fare. Fagacae. The extract is marketed in both Castor — Hairy sheepskin or goatskin leather, suede the solid and the liquid forms, products of different finished on the grain side. manufacturers varying in their tan content. In the solid Castor Oil —Yellow to yellowish brown oil expressed extract (in block or powder form), the tannin content from the seed kernels of Ricinus communis Linn. fare. is generally from 56 to 76 percent (non tan, 5.5 to 9.5 Euphorbiaccae used as such or as a sulphated oil percent) and the liquid extract from 29 to 49 percent (Turkey Red Oil), in leather manufacture. according to concentration (non tan, 5 to 10 percent). The American chestnut is generally darker in colour Casualty Calf— Still born calf. than the French. The tannin is of the pyrogallol class Catechu, Cutch Tree or Khoir — Reddish brown and is generally used in combination with other tanning dried extract of the heartwood ofAcacia catechu Wind., materials, such as quebracho, mimosa, myrabolans and fmn. Legurninosze. The tannin content of the Indian valonia in the preparation of sole leather. It is rapid in crystal cutch as determined by the hide powder method its action on hides and skins and gives a firm leather. varies from 57 to 59 percent. Catechu extract is used Chevrette — The skin of a young goat which is being, more as a mordant in dyeing leather than in tanning or has been, recently weaned, or the skin of an (see also ‘Cutch’). immature goat, or leather made therefi-om. Light weight Catgut — Tough cord obtained from the intestines of goatskin or heavy kidskin is sometimes termed cattle and sheep and used for strings of musical ‘chevrette’. In Germany the term ‘Heberling’ is used. instruments, tennis rackets and for sutures. Chrome Exhaust Aids — Bidentate completing Cellulose Extract — Ligno-sulphonic acid obtained agents (for example, dicarboxylic acids like adipic as a by-product in certain processes of paper acid), which can link, up with two different completing manufacture and marketed for use in tanning as sulphite units and help in high fixation of chrome. Cellulose. Chromed Hide Powder — Hide powder treated with Cementing Substance — See ‘Interfibrillary predetermined quantity of chrome alum solution, Substance’. washed, filtered and squeezed to contain about 75 percent moisture. Ceresin --- White to yellow refined mineral wax obtained by purification of ozokerite with concentrated Chrome Leather — A bluish green leather which has sulphuric acid and filtration through animal charcoal. been chrome tanned. It does not wet back readily and [t is used in shoe and leather polishes and for variety withstands the action of boiling water. It is stronger of other purposes. than vegetable tanned leather and is usually dyed and finished. Chameleon — A lizard which can adjust its colour to its surroundings. Chrome Liquor — Solution of basic chromic salt,

10 IS 1640:2007 usually basic chromium sulphate, used in chrome Chroming — Treating hides and skins with chrome tanning. liquor for tanning. The term is specially used for the process in which delimed pelt is treated with an Chrome Re-tan — Leather which has been first acidified solution of potassium or sodium bichromate chrome tanned throughout its thickness and in the double-bath method of chrome tanning. In the subsequently further treated or tanned with vegetable case of the one-bath process, the term refers to the and/or synthetic tanning agents andlor resin tilling treatment of the pelt with the chrome liquor which does materials, these retanning agents penetrating notably, the actual tanning. but not necessarily completely, into the interior. Circulators (Circulator Round) —A series of seven Chrome Side Leather — Chrome tanned cow hide (usually) inter-connected tan pits. The leathers or partly split into two halves along the spinal line, each of which tanned butts are suspended in six of these pits. The tan is called a side. liquor is circulated through all the seven pits, liquor Chrome Side Leather Water-Proof — Chrome being made up in the spare pit. tanned cow hide which has been specially treated to Clarification of Extracts — After the extraction of make it water repellent. the vegetable tanning material for manufacturing Chrome Sole Leather — Sole leather of greenish-blue tanning extracts, the liquor is usually clarified by colour produced by chrome tanning and stuffed with settling in a tank; or after the addition of clarifying stcat’in, paraffin wax, rosin and other materials to render agents allowing the extract to settle or by filtering the it firm and waterproof. same.

Chrome Sole Splits — Flesh splits of chrome tanned Clean Grained — With grain free from dirt. sole leather. Clearing Coat — Making the grain surface free from Chrome Splits — Flesh splits of chrome tanned cow greasiness by brushing the surface with a weak solution hides. of lactic or acetic acid or with ammonia (see also Clearing the Grain). Chrome Stock — Pelt which has been tanned by chrome liquor. Clearing Stone — A fine stone used to remove the marks on tools produced by the coarse rub stone. Chrome Syntan — Auxiliary syntan complexed with chrome; Chrome syntans can fill without loading; first Clearing the Grain — The process of freeing the grain made by T,heis et. al in 1952; first commercial product surface of leather from greasiness. In the case of was named as Tannesco. chrome tanned leather, this is done by brushing the surface with a weak solution of lactic or acetic acid or Chrome Tannage — Process of tanning hides and with ammonia (see also Clearing Coat). skins with basic salts of chromium, mainly basic chromium sulphate. Cloak Hide — Flexible leather, printed with a long or oat grain, made from vegetable tanned split cattle hides Chrome Tanning —The process of tanning hides and of suitable thickness and curried to contain sufficient skins with basic salts of chromium sulphate. grease to render it suitable for saddlery and military Chrome Tanning Extract — Solid extract of chrome equipments. tanning salts mostly in powder form. Clothing Leather — Leather used for making leather Chrome Tanning Salt — Green crystals of a chrome coats and breeches. Leather coats are made chiefly from salt, prepared by the reduction of sodium bichromate sheepskins tanned either with or without the wool. and sulphuric acid with a reducing agent, which is Coach Leather — See ‘Carriage Leather’ supplied for tanning pelts by the one-bath chrome tanning process. Coal Tar Bates — Name applied to some aromatic acids, such as crude cresotinic acid, a mixture of phenol Chrome Washers — Washers made from chrome and cresols, oxynaphthoic acid, etc, which have been leather. The term is specially applied in the Indian leather found useful as deliming agents. trade for washers used for making ginning rollers. When made from chrome tanned buffalo hides, they are called Coast Cod Oil — Oil derived from all kinds of fish ‘Ful]-Chrome Washers’. When made from chrome refuse including small or undersized herrings. It is used splits, they are called ‘Composite Washers’. for making sulphated oil. It is cheaper than cod oil and much cheaper than genuine cod liver oil. Chromic Oxide Content of Leather — The quantity of chromium compounds found in leather, calculated Cocamades — Medium grained goatskins obtainable as chromic oxide. from the north east coast ofAndhra Pradesh, averaging

11 1S 1640:2007 from 85 to 90 kg per 100 skins and yield in about 5.5 mz usually of good selection, curried and having a of leather per dozen skins. thickness of4 to 5 mm.

Cochineal — Dried bodies of insects Coccus cacti Li., Collar Leather — Leather used for covering horse from which carmine, a red dyestuff is obtained. collars. It is made of very light cattle hides of full thickness or of cattle hide splits. Its main colouring substance is carminic acid and an aluminium salt of which called carmine is used as a Colloidal Tanning — The name applied to a process food colour and water colour and a stain for of vegetable tanning in which either a colloidal microscopic preparations. substance is added to the tan liquor or the hides are previously treated with it. Such substances avert the Cockle — Defect appearing on sheepskin after the production of drawn grain or case-hardening even if removal ofthc wool and tanning, in the form of a cluster comparatively strong and astringent liquors are used of circles from 5 to 8 mm in diameter, connected to at the first stage of tanning. each other or otherwise, and the design of which forms a sinuous but always symmetrical pattern perpendicular Colophony — See ‘Rosin’. to the backbone. Colorados — A type of raw hide quoted in the Cockled Sheepskins — Sheepskins with warty growth. Chicago hide market. United States hides are divided into packer and country hides, the former being again Cod Oil (British Cod) — British cod oil is the oil divided into steers, cows, bulls and kips. Steers are derived from the livers of a variety of fish in~luding further distinguished as native, Colorado and Texas shark and cod. The oil is allowed to settle and decanted from the settled foots or stearine. It is widely used for — these being distinctions of breed. Colorado steers are not necessarily from Colorado, they are steer hides making sulphated oils. branded on either the side or the butt or on both the Cod Oil, Dark Brown — Inferior quality cod oil; sides and the butt. Heavies are 25 kg and lights are commercial quality. from 21.5 to 25 kg.

Cod Oil, Light Brown — Superior quality cod oil; Colour Coat — Finishing coat coloured with either refined quality. dye or pigment or both.

Cod Liver Oil — Yellow brown oil obtained from the Colour Fastness — The ability (of leather) to retain liver of the cod fish. its dyes and colour without changing or fading with Cohesion — The amount of water which collagen or wear or storage. gelatin takes up under any given conditions is Colour Matching — Composing a colour using a controlled by the balance between two opposing forces, mixture of colorants to match a given colour. one the force of osmotic pressure which causes water to pass into the protein and the other the resistance of Colour Measurement — The measurements of the protein to the distension caused by the entry of intensities of colour which are components of the water, conveniently termed as the cohesive force of colour on hand using either the so-called X, Y, Z system the protein. or L, a, b system.

Coimbatores — Variety of goatskin or sheepskin Colouring by Dipping — Dyeing by immersing the obtainable from the South of Tamil Nadu State. object in a dye bath.

Cold Crack Resistance — Crack resistance of leather Coloured Through — Penetration of total solubles at cold temperatures on being bent by mechanical through the entire thickness of a hide or skin as actions such as bending, flexing etc. evidenced by colouring.

Cold Sweat — A method of depilation. The skins are Combination Oil Tannage — A process of tannage kept in a damp sweat pit until the mucous matter in which the skin is first tanned with formaldehyde connecting the epidermis with dermis decomposes, and subsequently treated by oil (see also ‘Oil thereby loosening the hair without injuring the true Tannage’). skin. In the cold sweat process, the temperature is not Combination Syntans — Phenolic syntans of medium raised. molecular weight and medium OH : SO~H ratio used Collagen — Protein contained in connective tissue, as pre-tanning agents and agents for dispersing cartilage and bones, the chiefprotein of raw hides and vegetable tannin sludges. skins. Combination Tannage — Tannage where the leather is tanned with more than one tanning agent, chrome- Collar Back — Harness leather in the form of a back, 12 IS 1640:2007 vegetable [chrome retan, vegetable-chrome (semi- Cross Coat — The coat of finish applied to leather chrome)], alum-formaldehyde, formaldehyde-oil, etc. surface in a direction about 45° to the backbone.

Combing Leather — Soft mellow and tough leather Curing — Temporary preservation of raw hides and from steer hides, heavily stuffed with grease and skins. The treatment of raw hides and skins to prevent usually hand boarded or otherwise softened. putrefaction and bacterial decomposition.

Commissariats — Hides generally coming from See Smoking/Fuming/Smoke curing, Freezing, Drying, slaughter houses, especially from the cantonment towns Sun drying/Flint drying, Shade/Air drying, Ground of Northern India. They show fewer defects than the dryinglpeg drying, Suspension drying, Salt curinglG~en average ‘slaughtered’. salting, Dry salting, Brining and Radiation curing.

Commissariats Slaughtered Kips — Hides obtained Curtain Coating — Depositing a material as a film/ from slaughtered cows, especially from cantonment curtain of its solution over a surface from a semi- slaughter houses. cylindrical container through a narrow slot provided at the bottom. Commons — Hides, mostly unframed, and not ‘killeds’. Cutting Value — Utility value; or the useful part of a leather in making leather products. Compressibility — Percentage change in thickness of a test piece on being subjected to a specified pressure Corium — Derma or true skin, beneath epidermis, the for a period of time. portion of the skin mainly consisting of collagen fibres which is converted into leather. Condensed Tannins — Polyphenolic substance related to flavanoid compounds based on catechin or pro- Corrected Grain — See ‘Snuffed Finish’. anthocyanidin; possess the common characteristics of Country Hide — Hide from villages, usually taken forming insoluble phlobaphenes or tannin-reds in the off by butchers and farmers. Quality is generally lower presence of mineral acids. than packer hide because of lack of skill in skinning Conditioning — A process whereby dried skins are and poor curing. put in a condition suitable for staking. The effect is to Covering Colour — Protecting colour, which conceals restore sufficient moisture to the skins to render them defects. strong enough for staking. Conditioning may be done by cooling, saw dusting, or by damping in pile. Cow Hides — Hides of the cow, bull and ox. . Contract Tanning — Tanning undertaken by Cow’s Body Hair — See ‘Hair’. agreement. Cracking of the Grain — Opening or breaking of the Cordovan, Cordvan, Cordvane, Cordwain — grain layer by the double fold or key test. Spanish leather or crup leather. An article of medieval Crocking — The rubbing off of colouring or finishing times, produced in Cordova, after the Moorish conquest materials from finished leathers. The term is usually of Spain. The Moors probably introduced into Cordova applied to coloured suede leathers. the ancient practice of alum tanning goatskin. Such leather in the conventional way is no longer made. In Crop — Hair, cut short. The back of the hide, retaining America, of however, a shoe upper leather known as both the shoulder and the head. A ‘side’ of leather with cordova is made from the shell or butt of horse hide belly cut off retaining both head and shoulder. and is reported to be the most non-porous leather. It has Croupon — Untanned whole cattle hide with belly no resemblance whatsoever to the old Spanish cordovan. and shoulder cut off, comparable to butt bend in tanned Cordovan Leather — Leather made from shell area leather. of horse hide. Crown Leather — Leather formerly used for laces, Crackle Finish — When one resin coat is picker bands, light belts and other purposes where great superimposed over another of a very different glass toughness and flexibility were required. It is prepared transition temperature, the differential shrinkage of the from limed, drenched and partially dried skins with a top layer during drying leads to cracks known as paste of flour, buttermilk and soft fat. ‘crackle’. If the two coats are different y coloured, then Crumpled Hides — Hides that have developed the bottom colour shows up through the cracks. The wrinkles, due to being dried on the ground and not by pattern can be fixed by a third clear coat. straining on frames. In hilly tracts, hides are often dried Crazy (Horse) -– A surface effect characterized by on stones which become very hot in the sun and contact tnany minute cracks. with the heated stones gives sun blisters to the hides.

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Crup Leather — See ‘Cordovan’. Curry Comb Scratches — Marks caused by improper use of an instrument used in grooming animals usually Crushed Leather — Term applied to leather which horses. has the natural or artificial grain flattened and accentuated by plating or any other process in such a Currying — A series of dressing and finishing way that the outline of the grain or design is preserved. processes applied to leather after tanning in the course of which appropriate amounts of oils and greases are Crusts (Crust Leather) — Tanned hides and skins incorporated in the leather to give it increased tensile without any finish. strength, flexibility and water resisting properties. Crust Leather — Tanned hides and skins in natural Cutch — See ‘Catechu’. Catechu extract, leftover after colour or dyed and dried, requiring further processing the separation of catechin. Rich in tans and red dye. like mechanical operations and retanning and finishing operation before fabrication into goods. E.I. tanned Cutch Tree — A tree belonging to the species Acacia hides and skins are a typical example of crust leather. catechu Wind., fare. leguminosae, is disturbed in the Chrome tanned leather in wet blue further treated with deciduous forests almost all over India. Extraction of fatliquoring and/or tanning material and dried is the heartwood yields pale coloured &l TTHA, rich in another example of such crust leather. catechin; cutch, left over after separation of KYTTHA, rich in tannins and red dye, has many industrial Cudbear — A purplish-red powder employed as a applications ( see also KHAZR Tree ). colouring agent, obtained by digesting Rocella lichen with aintnonia. Cut Throat — Skin originating from an animal which has been bled by means of a large transversal slit across Cure Dacca — Curing done by dry salting with khari the throat (ritual slaughter ). salt in which a thick plaster is put on the hide to increase weight. Also called ‘Heavy Cure’. Cut Throat, IIalali — A hide of an animal slaughtered according to Islamic or Jewish laws. Cured Hides — Hides that have been submitted to the process of curing to preserve them temporarily from D putrefaction until they reach the tanner. D — Abbreviation to denote ‘Dacca’, ‘Deads’, They include wet-salted, dry-salted and air-dried hides. ‘Double’ and ‘Dcu-bhangas’. These are known as raw hides in the export trade. Dacca Cure, Daccas –- One of the four main types of Cure, Hard — Heavy cured. Dry-salted hides thickly raw dry-salted hides formerly exported from Calcutta. plastered with khari salt to increase weight. Daissies — See ‘Deshis’.

Cure, Heavy — See ‘Cure, Hard’. Dakkins or Dakshins — Hides from the South.

Cure, Light — Dry-salted hides without undue Damping — After the leather has been dried in order plastering. Also called ‘Meherpore Cure’. to set the fiber, it must again be damped back or Cure, Meherpore — Curing done by lightly dry- sammcd before the finishing processes can be carried salting with khari salt so that no undue coating of the out. Two methods are employed. The first consists of salt is formed on the hide ( see also ‘Light Cure’). dipping the stock in warm water for a short time and then laying them in a pile overnight covered with a Curing Agents — Chemicals used for preservation of tarpaulin; and the second in placing the leather in a raw hides and skins. pile with damp saw dust between each hide or skin and then covering the pile completely with more damp Curing Damage — Damage caused by ineffective saw dust. By either of these methods, the stock becomes curing. uniformly damp, without containing an excess of Curing, Wet-Salted — Curing by the application of moisture in any part. salt and keeping the hide wet. Both common salt and Darbhangas — The best kind of cow hides from khari salt are used. The latter is regarded as more Western Bihar. They are air-dried, usually not so efficient for preservation. spready as the Pumeas but of equally good texture, Currier — Carroyeza- (French), Zurichter (German), well shaped, clean as regards flesh and grain, and R@zitore (Italian). The skilled worker capable of doing sometimes procurable in the framed condition. all the sleeker currying operations, particularly setting, Dar es Salaam — An important centre in East Africa hand stuffing and whitening. which gives its name to goatskins from Tanganyika. Currier’s Grease — Grease used in stuffing Ieathcr The goatskins are fine grained flint dried skins, during the process of currying. weighing about 55 kg pcr 100 and yielding 4.5 to 5 mz 14 1S 1640:2007 of leather. The take-off and trim are fairly good but xviii) Tick marks kilni skins are frequently damaged by scratches and insect xix) Vulture scratches Panja bites. Usually sold in bales of 100 kg weight. xx) Warble holes merru orpokka Dash Leather — Term sometimes used to describe a xxi) Yoke marks khunda patent leather finish on a cow hide split. Degras, Moellen — Uncombined fish oil pressed out Daub — Varnish made from linseed oil, Prussian blue of sheepskin splits in the manufacture of chamois and lampblack which is used in ground coats in the leather. As oiled skins are exposed to air oxidation in manufacture of patent leather. this process, the uncombined oil pressed out is also oxidized and thereby gets the valuable property of easy Deacons — Skins of new born calves weighing, if emulsification. On account of this property, degras is green, 2 kg and under; if dry, 1 kg and under. much used in leather manufacture for fat-liquoring and Dead.4 — The term does not imply that the hides are currying, so much so that it is now also artificially from cattle which died naturally. These hides have manufactured by oxidizing cod or fish oil by blowing minor defects, such as one or two cuts, slight worm steam and air into it. The type of cod oil used in damage, small brands, yoke scars or touches of hair chamoising in the continent of Europe remains more slip. or less liquid in the oil tanned chamois leather and, therefore, can be easily pressed out. This when De-burring — Cleansing wool of fur skins. compounded forms the moellen degras of commerce. Deccans — See ‘Hyderabads’. Degrain — Suede leather, finished on the flesh side, Deep Buff — See ‘Upholstery Leather’. the grain having been wholly or partially removed after Deerskin — Skin of a deer. There are several varieties tanning by splitting or abrasion. but the spotted species and the sambhar are more Decreasing — Removing grease in the case of pickled common. sheepskins by drumming the stock with kerosene, water Defects of Hides and Skins — Apart from those and salt; in the case of leather, by extracting the dried defects which are already listed elsewhere, the leather with any suitable solvent. following defects are commonly met with in the Indian Degree of Tannage — Number of parts of fixed tan. hides and skins trade. The indigenous terms commonly per 100 parts of hide substance. used in trade are also indicated against each: Delhi-Agras — Variety of goatskins also called North- i) Allowed to dry out before hawa gaya Westerns. The skins are medium grained, wet-salted setting, then wetted and and dry-salted. salted (half wet back) Deliming — To get rid of lime by means of chemical ii) Bad skin (tail portion) budgosht or bacterial action. iii) Carbuncle, scabs, sores ghao iv) Flay cuts (not cut through) sulla Deliming Agent — Chemicals of acidic nature used to neutralize lime. v) Hipbone marks girran vi) Kind of leprosy korh Denaturng of Salts — Process by which salt is vii) Kind of mottled defect mokkra rendered unfit for human consumption. This is done usually found on neck by adding some inedible chemical substances. and shoulder Depickling — Neutralizing the acid from the pickled viii) Lice juin pelt.

ix) Meat on flesh side gosht Depletion — Removing the swelling of the pelts (see x) Pox marks Chq-chuk, also ‘Falling Solution’). gottee Dermatitis — A disease of the derma or true skin xi) Putrefied hides Sara chamra occasionally accompanied by intense irritation. It can xii) Rain sores (on skins) barsatti dana be caused by contact with chrome liquors, xiii) Rib marks Pasali formaldehyde or mineral oils. xiv) Salt sprouts namak ka dagh Dermis (Derma) — The true skin or that part from xv) Scratches (barbed wire) kante ka dagh which leather is produced. Also called ‘Corium’. xvi) Stale hides baasi chamra Deshis — Cow hides cured by dry-salting from central xvii) l% marks damar ka dagh and western Bengal, somewhat smaller than the

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Daccas. The pelt is not so plump and substantial and from Colombia, Venezuela, Jamaica and to a small they arc not so thickly plastered as the Daccas. Also extent from India. known as ‘Meherpore cured’. Doeskin Leather (1) — In the glove trade a very supple I)etanning — The process of removing tan from scrap Ieathcr usually white or cream but sometimes dyed with leather for glue making. a fine suede finish made from lamb-skin or sheepskin flesh split and tanned by formaldehyde, oil or Detannized Solution — Solution obtained after formaldehyde-alum processes (see ‘Aldehyde Leather’). detanning scrap leather. Doeskin Leather (2) — In the shoe trade, a suede Detergent — A surface active agent which loosens or leather made from deerskin. The term is almost removes dirt, oil or grease. synonymous with buckskins. Developed Dyes — See ‘Dyes’. Dongola Tannage — A name used in ancient times Dewarbling — Ridding the animal or hides and skins for leather, tanned by alum and retanned with gambir. from the warble fly. Dope — See ‘Pigment Leather’. Dewclaw — An undeveloped (rudimentary) toc in Double Face — Sheep and lamb skins with wool intact cattle. and sueded on the reverse side. I)ewlaps — The loose hanging skin under the throat Double Hole Stitch Tear Strength — The load of cattle, where the butcher (flayer) first inserts his knife required to tear the leather between two holes, a given when slaughtering or flaying. distance apart. Dhawa, Dhaura — Tanning material obtained from Double Rejections — See ‘Doubles’. the twigs and leaves of the tree, Anogeissus latd’olia Wall. fare. Combretaceae. Average tannin content of Doubles —Also called double rejections or wrappers. the leaves is about 32 percent while a mixture These are very inferior hides which cannot even be consisting of young leaves and twigs mostly broken selected as ‘Rejections’. They are often rotten in places, called dhawa (sumac) has a tan content of 38.5 percent. have marks due to the pecking and scratching of The leaves have good bleaching action almost vultures, badly branded or badly cut. approaching that of Italian sumac. Drape — The property by which a dressing material Difference Figure — The difference between the pH covers parts of body following its contours (that is, value of a solution and its tenfold dilution. It is a ups and downs). measure for the strength of acids and bases. This value Drawn Flanks — Flanks of skins and leathers that can never exceed the value 1. have shrunk and show furrowed lines on the grain Diplococci — Pairs of spherical bacteria. surface over the underlying blood vessels.

Dipped Dressed —A term used in currying to describe Drawn Grain — Shrivelled grain like the skin of a leather which has been impregnated by immersion in dried apple. Drawn grain arises when the grain surface hot grease. gets tanned and fixed in area while the substance of the hide is in a more extended condition. Direct Dyestuff — See ‘Dyes.’ Drenching — The process of deliming with fermented Discoloration or Red Spots —As a rule, these spots wheat bran. are superficial since it is mainly the salt which is discolored and not the skin itself. They disappear Drench Pit — A pit in which wheat bran is allowed to almost completely after the first beamhouse operation, ferment and in which the hides are subsequently namely, soaking. handled for deliming.

Divi-Divi — Tanning material cbtained from the dried Dressed Hides — Tanned hides, curried or otherwise pods of the tree Cuesalpinia coriaria (Jacq.) Wind. finished, for various purposes, such as belting, harness fare. Leguminosae. The tan content of the pods varies and saddlery, travel goods and for upholstery. from 28 to 41 percent. It is usually employed in Dressing Agents — Oils, fats, waxes, etc, used for combination with other tanstuffs chiefly as a dressing and finishing hides and skins. substitute for gambir (from Uncaria g-ambir Roxb. fare. Rubiaceae ) and valonia, from Quercu.s Dressing Leather — Vegetable tanned unsplit hides macrolepsis kotschy fare. Fagaceae in the tanning which may be dressed to suit the purpose for which industry. The leather produced is of light yellowish they are to be used, such as for harness, saddlery and tint. The worlds’ supply of divi-divi comes chiefly other mechanical purposes. 16 IS 1640:2007

Dried Hides — The method of curing hides by air- Dubbin –- Mixture of cod or fish oil and tallow in drying is practiced usually in the North, North-West suitable proportions used for currying leather. More and other drier parts of India. It is not very common in cod oil is used in the mixtures in winter and slightly the humid climates of Bengal and Assam. Most of the more tallow in summer. Indian hides are cured by air-drying in which the weight Dull Finish — See ‘Finish, Dull’. of the green hide is reduced to about a third by drying. Exposure to hot mid-day sun’ is avoided as it causes Dusters — In the older process of sole leather tanning, case-hardening and consequently sunburns or blisters. a small amount of ground tanning material, 1 to 1.5 kg In India, the best months for air-drying are those of per butt, was sprinkled between the butts. The two winter when the air is dry and the sun not too hot. Air- strongest handlers were called ‘dusters’ and formed a dried hides are known as ‘flints’ because of their link between the handlers proper and the layers (see hardness. Before export they are dipped in a solution also ‘Handler’). of preservative for protection against insects (see also Dusting — Spreading ground raw vegetable tanning ‘Air-Dried Hides’). materials over and between the hides entering the layer Drum-Head Leather — Parchment or raw hide from vats, adding to the tannin strength of liquors. This was sheepskins or calfskins for musical drums. a common method before concentrated tanning extracts came into use. Drums — Cylindrical vessels made of wood, mounted on suitable axles so that they are capable of revolving Dye — A dye (or dyestuff) is most commonly an freely. They are usually equipped inside with pegs or organic compound which may be used to impart colour shelves for lifting the stock. Goods may be entered to a substance. It may be used for the colouring of through a door which can be closed watertight. These animal, vegetable or synthetic fibres and similar are used for keeping the hides and skins in good products [such as wool, silk, leather or fur, cotton, linen, movement during various stages of tanning. paper, rayon, nylon, or other materials (such as oils, waxes, rubber or plastics, etc)]. Dyes may be soluble Drum Stuffing — Incorporating grease and fats into in water or may be made so by a simple chemical the leather by using a specially fitted drum. reaction. Insoluble colouring matters are called Dry Dip — A strong solution of vegetable tan extracts ‘pigments’. in which dry sole leather is dipped preparatory to Dyes may be classified in accordance with their second bleaching and second oil wheeling to increase chemical constitution (Nitro-, azo-, the firmness and solidity of the finished leather and to Triphenylmethanes, etc), or their method of add weight. application.

Drying Loft — Space in a tannery where dried leather The class of dyestuffs more commonly used in the is kept for crushing; or stored awaiting selection for leather industry are: subsequent treatment. a) Divect Dyestuffs — Dyestuffs which dye Dry Milling — Tumbling pressed leather in a revolving cotton fibre directly, without the aid of drum to open it up and remove the creases, mordants. Method of application to leather is Dry Pickling — A method of curing skins from wool similar to that of acid colours, but no addition sheep with sodium sulphate and sodium chloride. of acid is required in the dye-bath. Direct Sometimes hypo also is used with a little acid. dyestuffs, or substantive colours have got Sulphuric acid is used in modem processes. good aff]nity for chrome tanned leather and are used for dyeing chrome leather, specially Dry-Salted Hides and Skins — Hides and skins cured blacks. by the process of dry-salting. The salt used for curing b) Basic Dyestufls — These are aniline dyes is khari salt which is a natural product consisting which are compounds of an organic base with mainly of sodium sulphate mixed with earthy matters. an inorganic acid usually hydrochloric. They A few coats of a soupy solution of this salt are applied have great affinity for tannins and, therefore, on the flesh side of hides and skins, and then dried in dye vegetable tanned leather directly. They the sun. This method is followed mainly in the North- have little affinity for chrome leather which East part of India where the climate is damp. has to be mordanted with tannin if basic dyes Dry Tunnel — A tunnel in which damp leather is are to be employed. placed for drying in a current of air, often under c) Developed Dyestuff — Dyestuffs whose conditions of controlled temperature and relative colours are developed by chemical treatment humidity. after application to the leather. This is 17 —----%> -% .-~ .... “’ .....4.. “i_ . . . ,...... - -. .. . .

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necessary in special cases, for example, Ellagic Acid — It is a yellowish powder, odourless, sodium nitrate treatment for suede leathers to tasteless, insoluble in water even at 10O°C but slightly prevent cracking (see also ‘Acid Colours’). soluble in alcohol, having the chemical formulae C1406H8, and used in medicine. Present in galls. E Ellagitannin —A class of hydrolyzable tannins related Earthy on the Flesh Side — Plastered with earthy to the gallotannins (from plant galls). They produce matter on the flesh sides, of hides and skins. bloom on leather and occur in myrobalans, valonia, E.I. — An abbreviation of ‘East India’. A descriptive divi-divi and a number of other well known tanning term applied to crust, vegetable tanned cow hide (kip), materials. buffulo hide and calf, sheep and goat skins, originating Ellu — Dried bark of the elm tree Ulmus rubya Muhl. and tanned in the Indian sub-continent mainly in the syn. U. fu/va Michx. fare. Ulmaceae, containing gums south. and tannin. East India Kips (E. I. Kips) — Crust tanned kips (cow Elongation — The extension between bench marks hide) from India are called kips, because they arc not produced by a tension force applied to a test piece. It big enough to be classed with cattle hides of other is expressed by a percentage of the original distance countries and not so small as to be regarded as calfskins. between the marks on the unstretched test piece. Hides below 11 kg as green weight or 5 kg dry weight arc regarded as kips. The term is applied to raw and Elongation at Break — The extension between bench dressed or vegetable tanned Indian hides, more marks produced by a tension force applied to a test particularly to the latter. piece at the time of its rupture. It is calculated by taking Indian kips partly tanned with vegetable tan material the difference between the original length and the (awwam bark and wattle bark) are mainly exported to length at the time of rupture under the tension force, England where they are usually dressed for russet expressed as a percentage of the original length. lining, box side leather, bag leather and a variety of Elongation at Specified Load — The extension other purposes. between bench marks produced by a specified tension Egg Yolk — Yellow of the egg. It forms a constituent force applied to a test piece. It is calculated by taking of alum tawing paste. Egg yoke is very useful the difference between the original length and the particularly in the treatment of gloving and clothing length at the specified load, expressed as a percentage leathers of all tannages. of the original length.

Elangaram — Indigenous method of deliming carried Embic Myrobalan, AMLA — Fruits of a small genus out by water, assisted by trampling of the hides. of trees Emblica oj,iicinalic Gaortn. syn. Phyllanthus omblica Linn., fare. Euphorbiaceae. found wild or Elastic Gusset — A triangular flexible piece of cultivated, throughout greater part of India, used in material inserted in a garment to enlarge or strengthen medicine and is a rich source of vitamin C and pectin. it, such as the side pieces for extension in purses, The fruits, bark and leaves of the tree are rich in tannins, bellows, etc. the tannin content being approximately 28 percent, 8 Elastin, Elastic Tissue — The yellow connective to 21 percent and 22 percent, respectively. The tannin tissues of the skin which furnish structural support for is of condensed type. Immature fmits are employed in other tissues, especially the thermostat mechanism. combination with other tan stuffs.

Elbow Flaying — Flaying by using the elbow instead Embossing — Producing a raised pattern by pressure of the knife. upon the grain side of the leather. The pattern may be on a plate or roller according to the type of embossing Electrified Lambskins (Shearings) — Term applied machine. to dyed and processed sheepskin shearings finished to resemble furskins. Embossed Leather — Leather with printed pattern or artificial grain. Elk Leather — Chrome retanned cow hide leather treated with grease for softening and waterproofing. A Embossing Plate — Engraved plate which is mounted purely trade term in America for cattle hide shoe leather on a steam heated chest in an embossing machine. of a special tannage and finish. Genuine elk leather is Embossing Roller — Engraved roller usually of designated by the term ‘buckskin’, ‘smoked elk’, or bronze, used in old type embossing machine. ‘elk side leather’. It is well known in the leather trade as cattle hide shoe leather and should be qualified as Empty Leather — Leather lacking in fullness and ‘elk finished cow hide’, or ‘elk finished kip’. hence substance.

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Emu —A flightless Australian bird similar to the South Exotic Leather — High fashion leather. American Ostrich. Extra Heavies (Cow) — Cow hides which are above Enamelled Leather — Originally, the term signified 18 kg wet-salted weight. a leather similar to patent or japanned leather but with Extract — In leather industry it denotes tannin extract. an embossed grain. It was made for gladstone bags, Extracts may be solid or liquid. brief bags and document cases. Its chief use today is for head leather (hoods) of motor cars. Extract Blended — Mixed extracts.

Enameling — The name applied to the process of Extracting — Drumming wrung sole leather from the repeatedly coating the grain side of leather with boiled layer vats with a concentrated vegetable tan extract to linseed oil or cellulose varnish with intermediate drying incorporate into it as much vegetable tanning material by which shining upholstery leather is made. The as it will hold. process is similar to japanning with this difference that Extraction Substance — Substances (fats and other the latter name is restricted to coating the flesh side of solubles) which can be extracted from leather with the hides with the varnish. Enamellng is followed by dichloromethane or petroleum hydrocarbon graining or embossing, while ‘japanning’, which gives solvent 40/60. patent leather, is kept plain. Extractive Matter — Soluble matters which are Enzyme Bates — Artificial bates which owe their amenable to extraction; solubles. activity to enzyme. Mostly, the enzymes present in the pancreatic juice, namely, trypsin and steapsin, are so Extract, Liquid -— Extract in liquid form usually of utilized. They dissolve and remove some constituents syrupy consistency. of the hide. Extract, Sulphited — Extracts which have been Enzymes — Biocatalyst of biological origin and are treated with sulphites and bisulphites with or without characterized by their extraordinary specificity and any organic acid, so as to make them more soluble and reactivity in living systems. of better colour.

Epidermis — The outermost layer of the skin made Eyelet Straps — Leather straps or flaps to cover the up of epithelial cells; it covers dermis and is removed eyelets. during unhairing, F Epithelial Tissue — The cellular tissue that covers all Face — Leather made from the face of cattle hide, free surfaces within and without the animal body. that is, triangular shaped portion from between the ears Epsom Salts — Magnesium sulphate. and eyes to the nose excluding the cheek.

Equinine Leather — Leather made from the hide of a Facing Leathers — Term used to describe a light horse, mule, colt, zebra and other equinine animals (see weight leather generally used for facing seams and aLvo horsehide). binding the edges of shoe uppers. Also applied to light weight smooth calf and lamb, skivers of which the inner Erector-Pilimuscle — One of the tiny involuntary surfaces of bill folds and wallets are frequently made. muscles of the skins associated with hair that causes goose pimples to form, the hair to stand on end and oil Facing Stocks — The light leather for facing seams to flow from sebaceous glands to the skin surface, a and binding the edge of shoe uppers. muscle active in the thermostat mechanism of the skin. Factory Leather — Sole leather used in shoe factories; Ethyl Acetate Value — Number of milligrams of not as firm or heavy as finders’ leather used by shoe potassium hydroxide required to saponify the esters repairmen. (ethyl acetate) in one gram of the sample. Fallen Hides — Hides taken from cattle which have Eucalyptus — Name of genus of plants. There are died naturally as distinguished from those which have some 600 or more species of Eucalyptus of which many been slaughtered. There is a large proportion of fallen are known to contain barks rich in tannin. The hides among Indian hides. production of a large amount of kino is characteristic Fallen Stock –- Stock which has been depleted from of many species of eucalyptus. Kino-impregnated bark a swollen condition by bating or treatment with brine. is available from many species of eucalyptus which are felled for timber. The tannin content of kino is high Failer Box — Box in which failer stock works. (fee also ‘Kino’). Failer Stock — Hammering or a pounding machine Excelsior Mill — A special type of bark grinding mill. used for making chamois leather. 19 II !,, ,-.

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Falling — To deplete or remove the swelling of limed Filling — introduction of conditioning substances into pelts by bating. the leather to give weight and body (see also ‘Loading’ and ‘Stuffing’). Falling Solution — Saturated solution of sodium chloride used in pickling hides and skins for export in Filter Bell — Apparatiis used for tannin analysis by the pickled condition. It is called falling solution the Freiburg method. because the stock previously treated in pickling with a Filter Candle — Filtering apparatus usually cylindrical solution of salt and sulphuric acid falls or loses its in shape and open at one end, made of unglazed swelling when treated with saturated brine. This porcelain. It sucks in the solution through its pores process of removing the swelling of the pelts is known when the open end is attached to a water jet or a suction as ‘Depletion’. pump; used also in tannin analysis. Fancy Leather — Light leathers of different shades Finish, Dull — A finish which leaves the grain of the of colour and finish for making artistic and fancy leather dull and free from glaze (see also ‘Matt Finish’). leather goods. Finished Leather — Tanned leather processed and Fancy Trimming — Cutting the leather to give an finished to the extent that can be used directly without artistic pattern. any further treatment for fabrication into industrial and Fast to Rubbing — Unchanged by rubbing either wet consumer items or parts of such items. Examples of or dry. finished leather are ammunition leather, aniline leather, antique leather, apron leather, automobile leather, Fat Glands — Sebaceous glands situated on either side belting leather, bookbinding leather, box calf, box side, of a hair and connected to the follicle by a duct at its buff leather, capeskin or cape Icather, carding leather, upp~r part. They contain oily matter or sebum carriage leather, case leather, chrome tanned or chrome consisting of lecithin, cholesterols and in some cases retan upper leather, chrome sole leather, chrome higher aliphatic alcohols. washers, clothing leather, combing leather, cordovan Fatliquor — An emulsion of oils or greases in water, leather, crown leather, doeskin leather, fancy leather, usually with an emulsifying agent used to lubricate the football leather, fir finished shearling, furniture leather, fibres of tanned leathers. Cationic, anionic, non-ionic gasket leather, glove leather, nappa leather, hydraulic and multicharged fatliquors are available. (or packing ) leather, harness leather, japanned leather, jerkins leather, lace leather, lining leather, meter or Fat Wrinkles — Wrinkles due to fatty growths found diaphragm leather, morocco leather, patent leather, rein on many immature cow hides and calfskins. leather, russet leather, russia leather, saddle leather, Faults — Defects in hides, such as cuts, marks due to skirting leather, sole leather, suede leather and branding, goading, vulture pecking, pox and tick, upholstery leather. warble holes and hair slip (see also ‘Defects of Hides Finishing — Covering a leather surface with a film and Skins’). with or without colour and designs to impart desirable

Faulty Shearing — Scars left by the shearer on physical and chemical properties. sheepskin at the time the animal is sheared. Finished Split — A finished leather obtained from Feeder Cattle — Cattle meant for food. splits of the corium major (flesh split).

Fellmongering — Loosening wool on sheepskin and Finish, Matt — Dull finish. lambskin. Fire-Dried Hides — Hides cured by being stretched Fellmonger — Person engaged in separating wool or tied on a frame and dried over a fire. This method is from sheepskin. adopted in the damper climates of India.

Fibre, Gelatinous — Fibres which have degraded into Fir Extract — The extract of the bark of firs [Abie.s a horny state due to overheating. balsamea Mill., A. fraseri Poir., and A. nordmanniana Spach., fare. Pinaceae] is sometimes used for tanning. Filler — A material, such as mucilage, china clay, The bark contains about 10 percent tannins on dry glucose, epsom salt, sulphonated oil, etc, introduced basis, which may enable preparation of extract into heavy leather to give additional weight. Bottom economically. Not common in India. leathers are often filled with tannin extract alone or mixture of a tannin extract and sulphite cellulose Firmas — Equivalent for frames. Same as framed extract. Many heavy leather tanners also drum the hides. Hides which are stretched on frames while leather with some type of filler containing mucilage, drying in the sun. The stretch is more lengthwise than breadthwise. Slaughtered hides are cured in this way china clay, glucose, epsom salt and sulphonated oil, 20 IS 1640:2007 in the drier parts of India but not during the rainy season Flesher — Untanned flesh split of a lambskin or or in the excessive heat of the summer. sheepskin.

Firsts — Grade of hides including ‘Commissariats’ Fleshing Beam — Convex shaped sloping platform and ‘Slaughtered’. used as a rest for the hides and skins during the operation of fleshing. It is usually made of stone or First Stomach — First part of stomach. wood and is inclined at an angle of about 45° with the First — Rejections (see ‘Assortment of Hides’). floor.

Fiset Wood, Young Fustic — The wood of Cotinz[ss Fleshing Knife — A flat curved piece of steel with coggpia Scorp. syn, Rhus Cotinuss Linn. fare. knife edges 9 to 11.5 cm apart, used for hand fleshing Anacardiaceac, a tree growin in Southern Europe which of hides. The continental fleshing knife is longer being contains the yellow colouring principle ‘fisetin’ about 50 mm only. (C,5H,00b), responsible for the yellow dyestuff Fleshing Machine —A machine comprising of a roller prepared from this wood. The dyetuff also occurs in with sharp spiral blades used for fleshing hides and quebracho wood to a small extent (see also ‘Fustic’). skins. Fish Skins — Skins or outer covering of fish. Skins of Fleshing (1) — Removal of any adipose tissue on the the shark are growing in commercial importance. They flesh side of the skins usually done after they have been arc used in making fancy leather goods. limed, A special knife is used for hand fleshing but the Fish Tanned Skins — Tannage effected with fish oil. process is mostly carried out by means of a fleshing machine (see also ‘Fleshing Machine’). Fixed Tannin — Tannin which is chemically fixed by protein. It is represented by the difference between 100 Fleshing (2) — Bits of flesh removed from the hide pcrccnt and the sum of the percentages of moisture, by cutting or scraping in the fleshing operation. Those oils and t“ats, water soluble matter, hide substance and removed from the raw hides are called ‘raw fleshing’ insoluble ash. and those removed from the limed hides are known as ‘Iimcd fleshing’. Both kinds are used for glue Fixing Agent — Chemical or mechanical agent that manufacture and are generally called ‘glue stock’. holds the mordants, dyes, pigments, or free vegetable tannins on the leather fibres. Fleshing (3) — Removing the flesh from hides and skins. Flaccid — The soft, fallen, flabby condition produced in pelts by the bating process; a depleted condition with Flesh Side — Reverse side of the hide as opposed to entire absence of plumpness or rubberiness. the liairy or grain side.

Flank — Side of an animal between the ribs and the Flesh Split — Hides split into two or more layers by hip. the splitting machine. The lower layer or the layer on the flesh side is called ‘flesh split’. Flesh splits are Flank Skins — Skins running thin along the belly and tanned and finished into leather. The layer containing producing a flat open grain in the leather. the grain is called ‘grain split’ or ‘skiver’. The grain Flanky Finish — Appearance of crazing, checking or splits are usually more valuable for leather making than flaking with or without separation of finished film. the flesh splits.

Flaying, Hand — As opposed to machine flaying; Fleshy Hides — Defective hides in which a lot of flesh flaying done manually with a hand flaying knife. has been left with a view to increasing weight.

Flaying Knife — Knife used to sever the subcutaneous Flexural Endurance — The number of flexes the tissues when removing the hide or skin from the leather withstands without any visible damage to the carcass. It has a curved cutting edge and tip so as to finish or the grain. reduce damage to a minimum. Flints — Air-dried hides. Also called ‘Flint Dried Flaying Machine — Mechanical hand unit, replacing Hides’. the flaying knife and consisting of two saw-edged Floater — A handler pit in which no solid tanning circular blades placed together, moving in opposite material is used in laying the hides in the liquor. directions and powered by electricity or compressed air. The machine is capable of producing perfectly Fluff — Woolly powder coming out after flufling. flayed hides, but is not used for flaying skins. Fluffing — Buftlng the flesh side of hides and skins Fleece — Woolly covering of a sheep or similar animal. (see also ‘Buffing’).

21

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IS 1640:2007

Fluffing Wheel — Emery wheel used for fluting French Algerian and Balkan skins tanned in France and given a lustrous suede finish. In the USA this term Foalskin — Skin of a colt or filly. is applied to leather made from South American and Foam Finishing — Applying finishes onto leather in New Zealand pickled lambskins. the form of a foam. High viscosity foam made of a French Kid or French Kid Finish — Leather tanned polyurethane dispersion, pigment, filler and a foam from kidskin by an alum process which, in the glove stabilizer, when made in a mixer, is stable upto a few trade, is known as ‘Glove Kid’. The original French hours and can be remixed after longer periods. To suit kid was made in France but now the term is applied to the high viscosity requirements of Reversible Roller a special class of leather made in other countries also. Coatcrs, foam finishes were actually developed. But, the added advantage that resulted is that more finish French Morocco — Misleading name for leather can be applied more economically. Though suited for similar in appearance to Morocco but made from full grain leathers also, it is more beneficial to damaged sheepskins. Use of this term should be discouraged and hence deeply buffed leathers and splits. Fresh Hides — Hides taken straight from the animal Fog Resistance — Non-emission of volatile matter by carcass before curing and dressing. leather upholstery, which can condense over the Frigorifico Hides — Hides from South American meat window screen in cold climate. canning plants, usually cured by the frigorifico method Follicle — Hair follicle. A small cavity or pocket in in which curing is done by brining the hides and which the hair grows. subsequently strewing solid common salt on them.

Follicular Mange — Infestation of the skin of Frizing — Removing the grain by hand, using a frizing mammals by Demodexfolliculorum which parasitizes knife, after liming for 30 to 40 days. The process is the hair follicles or sebaceous glands of men and used for making Mocha ‘Glove Leather’. domestic animals. Fronts — Portion of horse hides or pigskins from neck Football Leather — Used for football covering, up to the end of the butt. originally made from pigskins but is now generally Full-Chrome (Tanned) — The adjective ‘full’ is made from cattle hides. sometimes added to chrome tanned to emphasize that Forel — A grade of parchment made from fleshed the leather is neither semi-chrome nor combination sheepskin and having special properties of colour and chrome but pure chrome. surface rendering it suitable for bookbinding and fancy Full-Chrome Washers — See ‘Chrome Washers’. purposes. Full Grain — Leather bearing the original grain Formaldehyde Precipitation Value — It is the surface as exposed by removal of the epidermis and percentage of soluble matter obtained when 10 ml of with none of the surface removed by buffing, snuffhg 40 percent formaldehyde solution and 5 ml of or splitting. concentrated hydrochloric acid are added to 50 ml of a 0.4 + 0.025 percent tannin solution and refluxed for Full Grain (Full Top Grain) — Term applied to the 30 minutes. outer surface or grain portion of a hide from which only the hair has been removed. Formaldehyde Tanning — Process of tanning hides and skins with a solution of formaldehyde for the Fullness — Characteristic of good leather signifying production of white leather. plumpness of substance.

Formas — See ‘Firmas’. Fungi — See ‘Mold’. Fur — Skins of some wild animals, covered with short Fourths — Another name for low grade raw hide. fine hair, which is tanned or dressed for garments. Foxskins — Skins of foxes valued for their fur. Fur Dressing — Dressing the fur skins. Involves Framed — See ‘Firmas’. besides all-important leather making operations, some modifications in the usual operations in view of the Freeze Branding — Marks made on the buttbelly of necessity of retaining the furs and some additional animals for easy identification, using the more modern operations and processes to dress the furs. The freezing technique (instead of hot iron branding which modifications in the usual operations are: Green invariably damages the hides and skins besides causing fleshing and wheel buffing on the flesh-side. For cruelty to animals). dressing the furs, they are sheared (or trimmed) French Antelope Lambskin — Term applied to bleache~ to ward off all-colours (only optional), dyed, 22 IS 1640:2007 combed and finally plush wheeled. If the flesh-side is said to contain free gallic acid in addition to the tannin finished as nappalan, then the leathers are known as and an easily soluble form of ellagic acid. The tannin Fur-on nappalans. is not homogeneous and is stated to be built up as poly- galloyl-ellagic acid. Fur Finished Shearling — Tanned and dressed sheepskin, bearing short or medium length wool and Gallotannic Acid — It is a hydrolyzable tannin. It which has been treated by a process to straighten and forms a colorless amorphous mass, light yellowish brighten the wool. or buff coloured seals or a brittle vitreous mass becoming yellow in light, strongly astringent and Fur-on Nappalan — Fur-on leathers where the flesh acidic. side is finished as nappalans. Galuchet — A kind of sharkskin tanned without Furniture Leather — See ‘Upholstery Leather’ removal of the hard, pebbly surface. Similar to boroso Furrier — One who prepares or deals in furs. leather but with a coarser grain.

Fur Tanning — Process of tanning or dressing furs, Gambal -— The spreading piece used for suspending different from the process of tanning other varieties of carcasses from hooks for flaying. Also called ‘gambrel’ leather in that liming and deliming are omitted. or ‘spreader’. Gambier — Uncaria gambier: Grows in Malaysia, Fustic (1) — A yellow dye obtained from the wood of Indonesia and China, Leaves and twigs of the gambier the tree Chlorophora linctoria gaudich. syn, Moms bush contain 40 percent condensed tannins. ttnctoria Linn., fare, Moraceae. It is said to contain several pigments, for example, the flavone pigment, Ganjams — Variety of cow hides generally of poor morin C ~5H1007maclurin C13H~OOb.HZO (meritannic quality and selection obtainable from the area north of acid), and another fisetin C1~HIOOb. Tamil Nadu state and Ganjam in Orissa.

Fustic (2) — Young Fustic, the wood of Cotimlss Gash — A cut produced on the skin by the knife or Coggygria scorp. syn. Rhus Cotinuss Linn., fare. the flaying appliance, cutting into the dermis or skin Anacardiaceae, the leaves of which are the Indian or substance without there being an actual perforation. ‘Sicilian Sumac’ (see also ‘Sumac’). Gasket Leather — See ‘Hydraulic Leather’. The ground wood or extract of these yields the natural Gas Lime — Slaked lime employed for removing y~llow or orange dyewoods usually used with chromium, carbon dioxide, carbon disulphide and hydrogen tin or aluminium mordants (see also ‘Fiset Wood’). sulphide from a gas. G Gas Meter Diaphragm — A disc of flexible gas-tight Gadfly — A fly (tropical biting fly), which pierces leather for gas meters. the skin of cattle and horses and sucks blood, which Gas Meter Leather — Leather capable of being may lead to sores. rendered air-tight by impregnation with oils and used Gall Fly — An insect causing gall. for diaphragms in gas meters. Gallic Acid Value — Grams of gallic acid present in Gauntlets — A glove with an extension to cover the 0.1 percent solution of pure gallic acid, equivalent to 1 wrist. Formerly, gloves of steel or leather covered with ml of 5 percent potassium perrnanganate solution (m/v). steel chain or small scales, worn by knights and From this value, tannin content of a vegetable tan liquor warriors. Thick gloves, used in boxing, are also may be obtained by multiplying this value with a factor sometimes called ‘gauntlets’. specific to each tanning material. Gazelle –-A small antelope.

Gall Nuts, Galls, Oak Galls — They are the best Gelatin — Water-soluble high purity degraded form known of the vegetable galls (abnormal accumulations of collagen of the edible and the photographic grades. of plant tissue caused through external parasitic Gelatin Number — The amount of tannin in grams influence) used for tanning, especially those which held by 100 g of gelatin as developed by R. O. Page have been known in the trade as Mecca, Aleppo or (1942) is referred to as the gelatin number. Turkish galls. They are considered to be derived mainly from Quercus infectoria Olivier., fare. Fagaceae, which Gelatin-Salt Reagent — A reagent used in tannin occurs in Asia Minor and Eastern Mediterranean analysis consisting of 1 g of pure gelatin, dissolved in countries. The best gall is obtained before the insect 100 ml of water containing 10 g of sodium chloride escapes. The tannin content of the Turkish galls may and having apH of approximately 4.7 with the addition vary between 3@to 58 percent. The aqueous extract is of acid or alkali.

23 IS 1640:2007

Gill Box Leather — A leather used in textile Glove Leather — Leather used in making gloves. There machinery, similar to comb leather. are two varieties: (a) work gloves, for which leather tlom fill-chrome splits are usually used, and (b) dress gloves, Gin or Ginning Leather — Leather, usually vegetable for which a more soft and supple leather, such as that tanned bull or buffalo hide, used to form a roller in the from sheep, lamb and kidskins and to some extent from ginning machine, which separates cotton from the seed. deer, pig, goat, kid and mocha skins is required. Gingelly Oil — See ‘Sesame Oil’ Glove Leather, Cape — Glove leather made from Girth — The band by which the saddle is fastened to sheepskin, with natural grain retained. This should be the back of a horse. correctly confined to leather from South African hair sheep. Genuine capeskin from South Africa is a light, Glace Gerbung — German name for alum tanning flexible, tine grain durable leather generally superior process for making glove leather. to wool sheepskin of the same or other districts. When Glace Horse — Glazed horse hide leather, also called used to designate other than South African capeskin, ‘horse chavereaux’ made from the neck of a horse hide. it should be qualified as ‘Domestic Capeskin’, ‘Spanish Capeskin’, etc. Glace Kid — Leather with high gloss made from goatskins by chrome tanning used for making high Glove Leather, Deerskin — Leather finished with class shoes. Also called ‘glazed kid’, grain surface intact.

Glands, Sebaceous — See ‘Sebaceous glands’. Glove Leather, Kid — Chrome tanned grain glove Glands, Sudoriferous — See ‘Sudoriferous glands’. leathers from goat or lambskins of wool or hair types. This is an instance of the public deceiving itself as the Glassing — Producing a bright finish on the grain by name is in popular vogue but is never used by means of a glass slicker. manufacturers except for stock actually made of Glassing Jack — Glazing machine. immature goatskins. In the glove industry goatskin leather is generally referred to as ‘real kid’. Glass Paper — Powdered glass glued on paper for abrasive purposes. Glove Leather, Mocha Leather — Leather from Somali black-head or white-head sheep and also from Glass Slicker — Glass plate with smoothened and Egyptian and Sudan sheep. It is one of the most rounded ends, set in a wooden holder for setting out expensive of nap finished leather. After the grain has and polishing leather by hand (see also ‘Slicker’). been removed by a severe liming process known as Glassy Layer — See ‘Hyaline layer’, ‘Frizing’, the tine fibres below the grain are sueded.

Glazed Finish — The operation of producing a bright, Glove Leather, Mocha Suede — Arabian chrome glossy or glasslike finish on the grain surface of leather tanned, black-head hair sheepskins (commonly called by subjecting it to the action of a machine which rapidly black-head mochas) in which the grain is removed by draws, under pressure, a tool of glass, agate or other mechanical abrading rather than by hand frizing and suitable material across the suitably prepared surface the leather finished on flesh side. This leather retains of the leather. most of the characteristics of the frized skin, particularly fineness of finish due to closeness of tibres Glued Kid — See ‘Glace Kid’. of the skin. It is washable and wears well. Glazed Sheep — Sheepskin tanned by the chrome Glove Leather, Napa Leather — Grain sheep or process and glazed and finished for cheap shoe upper lambskin glove leather, from domestic, New Zealand leather. or South American sheepskins. It is given a chrome, Glazing — Producing a glassy coating, to polish. alum or combination tannage and drum coloured.

Glazing Glass — A roller made of glass used in the Glove Leather, Peccary — Pig leather obtained from glazing machine. a species of wild boar, native to Mexico, Brazil, Argentina and Central American countries. It is tine Glazing Machine — A machine used for polishing grained and capable of being shaved down to light and glazing leather. weight making it highly desirable for ladies’ tine dress Glazing Roller — A solid, cylindrical piece of glass, and short gloves. It is generally chrome tanned and is agate or steel used in glazing machine for polishing washable and very durable. leather. Glove Leather, Pig — Pigskin leather as used in the Glove Kid — Soft and supple leather, made from lamb glove trade obtained from the skins of Carpinchos and or kidskins for making gloves. chrome tanned. It is tough and durable and is suitable

24 IS 1640:2007 for dress making, and for driving and sport gloves. For Gouge — Thinning of the skin caused by the knife or dress gloves this Ieathcr is formaldehyde tanned. The by the flaying appliance, without there being any actual skin often shows scars and scratches received during perforation. the life of these wild animals. Domestic pigskin is a Gouges — A chisel with a hollow blade for cutting tight fibred skin suitable only for work gloves. grooves or holes. Glove Splits — Flesh split cattle and buffalo hide Grain — The surface of the unhaircd pelt or leather. leather specially prepared for gloves. The design on the outer surface of the finished leather Gloving Leather, Carpincho — Pig leather obtained produced by the arrangement of hair follicles, is distinct from a water rodent, indigenous to Argentina and for each species of animals and each pattern is a Uruguay; looks like pig leather, is more elastic and composite of the openings of hair pores, nerve papillae softer than peccary glove leather. It is chiefly used in and the cumulative effect of the structures underlying the manufacture of men’s fine dress and sport gloves. the surface. The grain pattern provides an easy means It is generally chrome tanned and is washable. This of identifying different type of leather. leather is classed as a pigskin (see also ‘Carpincho’ Grain Box — Square grain, grain characteristics and ‘Hogskin’). produced when calf and side leathers are boarded from GIUC –- Water-soluble, impure and hence dark neck to neck and from belly to belly. co]ourcd dcgmdcd form of collagen; generally used Grain, Brittle — Grain which is prone to crack. as an adhesive, Grain Burst — Tearing of the hair-side of the skin Glutaraldehyde Leather — A Icathcr in which during flaying, whatever the process of flaying used. glutarrddchyde has been used, normally in combination with other tanning agents, to make it more resistant to Grain, Corrected — Where the grain of a leather is deterioration under moist conditions and perspiration. poor or damaged, very often it is buffed off and a finish applied which tills the buffed grain surface and hides Glyco Proteins — Proteins combined with sugars. the fact that the grain has been previously coarse or Goat Skiver — The tanned grain split of a goatskin. damaged. Resin finishes incorporated with highly concentrated pigment pastes and a little wax emulsion Gold Beater’s Skin — The membrane of the blind are very suitable for correcting grain finish. gut of the ox between the large and small intestine. Grain Crack Resistance — The load in kg/mm Gold Kld — Kid or fine goat leather finished with a thickness of a leather at which cracks appear on the coating of gold or gold alloy leaf. grain surface of the leather.

Goran, Bara Goran — Ceriops dccandra (Griff) Grain Damage — Any damage to the grain side of Dinghov syn. Ceriops roxburghiona Am., farn. the skin, whatever its origin or nature, causing Rhizophoraceae, is a shrub or a small tree found in the depreciation of the skin. tidal forests of Sunderbans, east coast of India, Tenasserim, Andamans, Srilanka and various parts of NOTE --- This depreciation can bc caused in a variety of ways. Malaysia. The bark (tannin content, 20 to 37 percent) Holes or abcesses, various diseases (mange, warts, etc), the and the leaves (tannin content, 9 to 15 percent) arc aftermath of blisters, skin troubles, horn rake, rubbed hind- important tanstuffs. The bark imparts a red colour to quuters or rubbed neck, goad pricks, branding iron burse, the leather which can be avoided to a large extent by corrosive paints, tar, various scratches (brambles, barbed wire, blending it with myrobalans (Terrninalia chebula Retz. ckamagecaused during transportation or dragging, curry-comb fruits) and the bark of babul (Acacia arabica Linn.) in marks, rope marks), scarring or gashes as a result of surgery, suitable proportions, or by decolonizing and bleaching dog bites, etc. (see m’so ‘Mangrove’). Grain, Dragged — See ‘Grain, Rubbed’.

Goshap — See ‘Lizardskins’ Grain, Drawn — Leather which has been ‘case- hardened’ that is, the surface has been over tanned due Gothar or Katber, Bhander — Zizyphu.s xylopyru Wind,, fare. Rhamnaccae the fruits and bark of which to the use of an excessively strong and astringent tan hquor. yield a vegetable tan material. The bark contains about 7 percent and the fruit 23 percent of tannin. It produces Grain, Forel — A type of parchment used for book a good leather but results in much mucilage. binding and made from unsplit sheepskin.

Gouch — Flaying defect of hides caused by the Grain Pitting — Small outbreaks in the skin appearing removal of the substance of the hide creating a on the grain-side of the skin, leaving an empty space depression or pit on the flesh side. in the form of a crater after tanning.

25 1S 1640:2007

Graining — Imparting lined or patterned effect on the Grain, Straight — Long grain. Characteristic grain grain side of leather by standing or embossing. produced by boarding leather in the direction neck to tail. Graining, Four ways — To board in four directions. Grain, Synthetic –- Artificial or embossed grain. Grain Layer — The top layer of the corium including the hair follicles. The individual fibres of this layer arc Grainier — Type of surface crystallizer in which the finer than that in the rest of the corium. sodium chloride crystals are raked to one end by a reciprocating mechanism, allowed to drain on an Grain Leather — Any leather on which the original inclined table and get discharged. natural grain has been changed or altered to any degree by any process or manipulation. Grainy Leather — Leather with too coarse or russet grain. Also leather showing marbled grain. Grain, Levant — Obtained by embossing the particular grain pattern on the leather and then Grassers -– Calf or kipskins taken from animals that boarding, seasoning and glazing to bring out the gloss. are poorly fed and possess coarser grain. Lcvant grain finish is produced on goat and sealskins Grater — An instrument to pulverize by rubbing. and also kips and hide bellies (see also ‘Levant’). Grease -- Glyceridic or hydrocarbon lubricant, solid Grain, I.ong — See ‘Grain, Straight’. or pasty at ordinary temperatures. It maybe a mixture Grain Memel (Grain, Natural) — Grain characteristics of lard, tallow, bone, fat, fish stearine, ahtminium or produced when calf and suede leathers are boarded lead soap having a butter-like consistency. diagonally. Greave — Ancient leg armour.

Grain, Old — Defect of the grain perceptible as raised Green Fleshing — Fleshing in the raw state. and depressed patches on the grain surface. This is caused by the age of the animal and found more on Green Hides and Skins — Freshly flayed hides and bull than on cowhides. It is not possible to get a smooth skins; raw hides and skins not treated in any way. leather from a hide having this defect. Green Salting — See ‘Wet-Salting’.

Grain Pattern — See ‘Grain’. Green Stiffness — An intensely swollen condition of Grain, Pipey (Loose Grain) — A serious defect on hides and skins caused by very alkaline lime liquor. the grain surface of the leather. The grain layer is so Hides and skins get very plumped and stiff and become Iooscly held on to the layer underneath that it sticks almost transparent with a slight greenish hue. out on slightly folding the leather, making blister-like Green Weight — Weight of raw hides and skins, prior formations on the surface. to any treatment. Grain Quality –– QUality of the grain, its smoothness Grey Scale —A scale used for measurement of change and fineness and freedom from flaw, such as scratches, in shade of coloured leathers. wrinkles, growth marks, etc, is onc of the most important considerations in appraising the value of Ground Drying — Sun-drying of hides end skins for Ieathcr. which they are spread on the ground, flesh side uppermost, and either weighed down with stones or Grain Roller — Machine used for sinoothening the pegged to the ground through holes around the edges. grain so as to bring out a full lustre and a smooth feel. This method of drying is unsatisfactory and should be discouraged. Grain, Rubbed — Damage done to the grain by dragging the carcass or the hide on hard surfaces. Also Ground Hair —Young hair which is growing and is, called ‘Dragged Grain’. therefore, still small and thin, also called short hair. This does not become loose in liming as quickly as Grain Scratches — Damages caused on the grain by old long hair does because its root is more firmly thorns, barbed wires, etc. embedded in the skin and it is not easily removed by Grain Side — The upper or hairy side of a hide. the action of the depilants.

Grain, Silky — Grain, smooth and with natural Iustre. Growth Marks — Marks of the fold lines on hides and skins made permanent by the hardening of the Grain, Split — When hides are split, the top or the tissues in the course of ageing while being part of the upper thickness is called ‘Grain split’ and the under live animal. thickness ‘flesh split’. Superior leather is produced from the grain split. Ground Fibre, Coarse or Fine — While grinding solid

26 IS 1640:2007 crude tanning material for the preparation of samples Hair Papillae —Aprojection from the dermis into for analysis, not all the material become uniformly fine. the hair bulb through which nourishment is supplied Such ground material, when sieved on 1.40 mm IS Sieve, to the growing hair. yields coarse fibre (retained on 1.40 mm IS Sieve) and Hair Pulp — The pulp to which hair is reduced by fine fibrc (passing from 1.40 mm IS Sieve). strong solutions of sodium sulphide or alkali. Ground Substance — See ‘Interfibrillary Substance’ Hair-Pulping Methods of Unhairing — Methods, and ‘Cementing Substance’. which facilitate unhairing by the destruction of hair Grubby Hides — Hides full of warbles. by breaking the disulphide bonds, which stabilize the hairs. Lime-sulphide immersion method. Grubs — Larvae of the warble or bot flies. belon~in~-. to the species Hypoder-ma bovis and Hypoderma Hair Root — The portion of the hair which remains lincatum, which damage the hides by puncturing holes embedded in the skin. along either side of the spinal line. Hypoder-rna c~ossi Hair-Saving Methods of Unhairing — Methods of occur in goats (see also ‘Warbles’). loosening hairs so that they can be easily removed Gusset Leather — A soft, flexible leather used for without however tampering with the forces stabilizing gussets in shoes, bags and cases. their structure.

Gypsum Stains — Marks caused by contact with Hair, Shaggy — Rough and tangled hair. calcium sulphate. Hair, Sheep — Some types of sheep grow hair in place H of wool. They are indigenous to tropical countries like Brazil, Ethiopia, East, West and South Africa, India, Haematin, Hematin, Haematein — The colour giving Somalia, South Arabia and Sudan. Leather from skins principle of logwood (Haematoxylon campediamun of such sheep has a finer and tougher grain than from Linn., fare. Leguminosae) is haematoxylin which on wool bearing sheep. oxidation produces haematin the real colouring matter which with iron or titanium mordants produces bluish Hair, Short — See ‘Ground Hair’ black, with chrome mordants deep blue and with Hair Side — The side of hide or skin with hair on; the copper mordants a greenish blue coloured leather. grain side. Haematin is also a name given to logwood extract by some manufacturers. Henol Hemoline is another name Hair Slip — Slipping or loosening of the hair in hides given to logwood extract by other manufacturers (see and skins due to putrefaction. If the slip is not very also ‘Logwood’ ]. bad, passable leather can be made but if advanced too far, the hide is useless to the tanner and can only be Haematoxylin -— See ‘Haematin’. made into glue. Badly slipped hides are, therefore, often Hair — Hair is a keratinized dead structure, the cells called ‘glue’ or ‘glue stock’. of which are completely cemented together. They grow Hair, Summer-WInter — In summer, the hair on cattle out of tubes of epidermis sunk into the dermis, the hair hides is shorter and less dense than in winter. In India, follicles. Hair is composed ofa cuticle on the outside, hides taken off and cured in winter are, better in quality usually a medulla in the centre and a cortex between than those flayed and cured during summer and the the two. hair offers a more or less sure means of distinguishing between summer and winter hides. The dense, long Hair, Black — The black hair of cow’s body which is and shiny haired winter hides are preferred to the less valuable than white hair. s~arse, short and dull haired summer stock. Hair, Cow’s Body — In trade the limed hair from the ‘ Hair, White — The white hair of the cow’s body which tannery is known by the name of ‘Cow’s body hair’: fetches a better price than black hair. Hair Defects — Faults pertaining to hair. Halali — See ‘Slaughtered’. Hair Follicle — Pocket or indentation of the skin Half Fronts — Half of the front part of the horse hide. surface in which the hair grows, also called hair sheath. Half Hair and Up — The term denotes that the hides Hair, Ground — See ‘Ground Hair’. possess hair of average or more than the average length Hair Line — The line that marks the variation of the -and thickness and is a trade specification for the winter growth of hair on the ‘front’ and ‘butt’ of a horse hide. hides. Hides that are taken off and cured in the dry This line crosses the hide about three quarters of the months are sounder than those cured during the rainy way back from the head. season. In many countries, the dry season corresponds

27 IS 1640:2007 to the winter when the hair of the cattle is usually long, Hard Grain Goat — Goatskin leather with a thick and shiny. characteristic pin head grain pattern produced by hand boarding in a wet condition in at least four directions; Half Tanned Hides — Lightly vegetable-tanned hides vegetable tanned, sometimes also called Morocco. manufactured and exported principally from Madras and to some extent from Mumbai and Kanpur. They Harness Leather (Gear Leather) — Bark tanned are also called East India tanned kips and they consist leather from buffalo or heavy ox hide suitably greased mostly of cow hides and also to some extent of light or curried for making harness and saddlery. buff-hides. It maybe noted that the term is a misnomer. Hart — The stag or male of the deer. Handbuffs — See ‘Upholstery Leather’. Hartshorn Salt — Salt made from chippings and Hand Fleshings — Removal of flesh by a special type shavings of horns of harts, formerly the main source of hand knife from hides and skins. For this, the hide of ammonia. is spread over a beam with the flesh side up. Hasteners — Special preparations which are blended Hand Glazing — Glazing with a glass slicker by hand. with other tanning materials to quicken the process of The leather is spread over a table, grain side up and is tanning. Also called ‘Accelerators’. rubbed with the slicker to get a shine on the leather, Hat Band Leather — Leather from sheepskin or Hand Gtwined --- Grain which has been raised or calfskin, used for making sweat bands in hats. worked up by hand boarding. Haziness — Cloudiness in a finish film; caused by the Handler — Modern SOICleather tannagc includes three presence of alien substance(s) of a different refractive types of liquors, namely, suspender liquors, handler index in the film. liquors and layers. The handlers or handler liquors are those which follow the suspender liquors. They are Head — Part of the hide which covers the head, which stronger than the latter, varying in strength between is usually cut off from a well trimmed hide. ‘Heads’ 15° to 45°Bk, The hides are laid flat in handler liquors. are also called mathanis and mundas. They are tanned On alternate days, the hides are hauled and piled to by chamar-s into cheap leather. allow for the strengthening of the liquors with extracts Head, Split — The split of the head portion of the hide. or stronger tan liquors. These liquors derive their name from this frequent handling. Head Splitting — Same as ‘Cheeking’.

Handling — Hauling the hides from and laying them Head Vat — The tanning vat in a series that contains down into the liquor the strongest tan liquor; usually the vat from which the stock is taken from a series after vegetable tanning. of the handler pits. Healed Warble Hole — Scar formed as a result of the Hand-Hole — A cut made at the edge of the hide in warble hole having Healed. order to facilitate Heated Hides — Hides in which putrefaction has set flaying. in. So called because heat is generated during Hand Seasoning -– Hand application of seasoning putrefaction and also because a rise of temperature solution with a soft bristle brush or plush pen on leather hastens putrefaction. This is noticed from hair slips. spread on a table, grain side up. Heating –- Beginning of putrefaction of the skin Hand Shaving — Scraping with a hand shaving knife, revealed by a premature loosening of the hair. the flesh side of tanned leather with a view to making the substance uniform and of desired thickness. Heavies --- Cow hides weighing 5.5 to 7.5 kg in the dry state. Hand Staking — Mechanical softening of leather by drawing it against a hand stakcr with considerable Heavy Hide — A steer hide weighing more than 26 pressure so as to stretch and open up the fibres. kg or a cow hide weighing more than 24 kg in the green salted state. Hand Stock — Name for dry salted goatskins in the American market. Heavy Leather — Thick leather for sole, machine belts, harness and saddlery, having comparatively greater Hand Stuffing –- Incorporation, in the currying weight than dressing and light leather, is grouped under process, of grease into some varieties of vegetable this head. It is sold by weight, while dressing and light tanned leather by the application of suitable grease leathers arc sold by the piece or by area. mixture, known as dubbin, with a hand brush to well set semi-moist (sammcd) leather. Hedging –– Making a bet to offset a bet already made. 28 IS 1640:2007

Selling hides for future delivery to offset a possibic- Analysis of Vegetable Tannin, in which tannin is drop in market value of an inventory of hides and absorbed by the hide powder. leather. Hides — In general parlance, the term includes raw, Helvetia Leather — Same as ‘Crown Leather’. dressed or tanned skins of bullocks, cows, buffaloes, horses, camels, etc, although in statistics and commerce Hematein — see ‘Hcmatin’. Logwood dyestuff calfskins are also included. Accurately, hides are to be (hematcin) is obtained by oxidation of haematoxylin regarded as the outer coverings of large animals in raw C ,#31d06, 3H20 from the logwood tree. It is used in or untanned condition. Hides when tanned yield leather. tanning leather and also in dyeing and preparation of black leather pigment finishes (see also ‘Logwood’). Hides and Skins, Dry-Salted — Hides and skins cured by salt and air dried. Hemlock Leather — Reddish coloured sole leather formerly produced in USA by tanning with hemlock Hides and Skins, Green — Hides and skins in fresh extract Tsr4ga spp., fare. Pinaceae. In recent years, it natural state. has been replaced by leather tanned by other vegetable tanning agents. Hide, Split — See ‘Split’.

Hide, Alum Tanned — Hides tanned with basic Hide Substance — The amount of collagenous aluminium sulphate, or with alum, in admixture with substance in 100 g of dry leather. other ingredients like salt, flour, egg yolk, etc. Hide, Unbathed — Hide of an animal which was not Hide, Bathed — Hides of animals which were bathed bathed before slaughter. before slaughter. Hippiness -– Defect noticed in the hides of cows which Hide Beetle — Dermistes macuiatus (vulpinous), a have had many calves, also defect in hides and skins species of beetle the larva and adults of which damage caused by excrescences of animals. This prevents the hides, skins and leather. leather from, lying flat and smooth, in extreme cases its removal leaves holes, breaks the pattern and reduces Hide, Brined — Hide cured by treating with the cutting value. concentrated solution of common salt, or ‘brining’. In South America the process is largely used for curing Hogskin –- The skin of swine; grain grain gloving hides known as ‘frigorificos’. leather made from the, skins of the peccary and carpincho. The leather is sometimes buffed on the grain Hide, Domestic — Hides obtained from the home and is then known as ‘Buffed Hogskin’ (see also market. ‘Carpincho’).

Hide, Exotic — Foreign hides. Hole — Accident during flaying, complete perforation Hide, Fallen — Hides from animals which have died of the hide or skin a natural death. caused by either the knife or the flaying appliance. Hide Fibre — The collagen fibre in a hide. Hood Hides — Tanned hides used for making hoods Hide, Grubby — Dirty and grimy hide which is full for carriages. of grubs. Hoof — The horny protecting substance which grows Hide, Meaty — Hides with considerable amount of on the feet of certain animals like horses, cows, etc. adhered meat. Hoof Oil, Bubulum Oil — See ‘Oil, Neatsoot’. Hide, Mountain — Hides obtained from cattle of hilly Hopea Bark — The bark of genus of trees Hopes tracts. odorota Roxb. fare. Dipterocarpaceae reported to yield Hide, Native — Hides from indigenous sources. supple pale leather. The leaves, bark and wood contain 11, 13 to 15 and 10 percent tannin, respectively. The Hide Powder — Powder from well-washed, acetone bark of Hopea parrlj70ra Bedd containing 14 to 20 dehydrated vacuum dried delimed pelt disintegrated percent polycatechol tannins is recommended for by using a grinding mill, with ash content not more blending with other tan extracts. than 0.3 percent, pH 5 to 5.1 and moisture content 12 to 15 percent, used for analytical purposes and Horn — A hard projection on the head of certain theoretical studies. animals usually bent or curved.

Hide Powder Method — Official method of the Horn Wounds — The wounds or scars on hides caused International Society of Leather Trades Chemists for by the horns of other animals.

29 . .._....___,_

IS 1640:2007

Horny Layer — The topmost layer of the epidermis a veal. Somewhat coarser than suede calf (see also consisting of dried epithelial cells. Reversed Calf).

Horse — A portable wooden vehicle on which leather Hunting Suede — Suede upper leather, finished on and skins arc piled for draining or for transporting from the flesh side, made from calf, heavy goatskin or cattle one department to another. hide. (See also Hunting cal~.

Horsing Up — Piling upon the wooden stand known Hyaline Layer (Glassy Layer) —An exceedingly thin as ‘horse’. film constituting the extreme surface layer of the pelt; if it is damaged, the leather will not take the gloss or Hose Leather — Flexible strong leather made from polish. It is also called the ‘glassy layer’. cattle hide, shaved level and so dressed with soft grease as to make it virtually waterproof. Hyderabads — Large sized spready variety of goatskins, obtainable from Andhra Pradesh. Hot Pits — A set of interconnected circulator pits, usually six in number, in which very strong tan extract Hydraulic Leather — Leather made from cattle hides liquors of about 130°Bk are used at 40° to 43”C. The used for making pump buckets valves and other leather is suspended in these liquors for a maximum purposes. It is vegetable, chrome or combination tanned period of one week during which it absorbs the strong followed by special stuffing (see also ‘Gasket cxtroct liquor. Even crude quebracho extract liquor can Leather’). be employed because of the temperature. Hot pits are used to increase the amount of tannin fixed by the Hydro Extractor — Centrifuge machine for removing leather to make good the loss sustained in the scouring surplus water from wet leather, also called ‘whizzer’. process and also to fill the butts. The last pit contains Hydrolyzable Tannins — Vegetable tannins, which only tanning extract liquor and is provided with a are esters of a sugar and a tannic acid and hence on closed steam coil for maintaining the temperature at hydrolysis decompose into these components. 40°C. By controlling the strength, temperature and pH value of liquors in this pit, these conditions for liquors Hypo Bath — Second or the reducing bath of the in other pits are also automatically controlled. Hot double bath chrome tanning process which contains a pitting is not yet practised in India. solution of sodium thiosulphate or hypo (Na$JO~, 5HZO); also the solution of hypo used for the deposition Hot Pitting — Leaving leathers for a certain period in of sulphur in leather in the sulphur tanning process for layer pits containing tan liquors of high strength and making a variety of picking band leather. heated to 33 to 45°C with a view to accelerate the tannin diffusion. I

Hot Stuffing — Incorporating grease in the molten Iceland Moss — Long, fibrous lichen, Cetraria condition into leather at a comparatively high islandica Achar. It produces a mucilage on boiling with temperature. water which is used in finishing light leathers made from goat and sheepskins to yield a pliable film on the Hue — Of the three dimensions of colour, hue is the leather which does not crack on boarding or creasing. quality recognised as red, blue, etc, as against light, It is also sometimes incorporated into casein pigment dark or pure/dirty characteristics. finishes. Humane Killer — A lethal weapon used for killing Imitation Leather — Leather like substance much animals (see also ‘Captive Bolt’). used for upholstering furniture and motor cars, which Humectant — A material, which keeps the surface of is very similar to genuine leather in appearance and the leather moist and thus makes the material flexible. some properties.

Hump — Baggy portion of the hide of humped cattle. Immergan — Alkyl sulphonyl chloride used as As Indian cattle are mostly humped, the bulk of the substitute for oil tanning developed in Germany during India hides have this baggy pocket on the shoulder. World War II. The leather cannot be made to lie quite flat unless cut Immunization of Hairs — Stabilization of hairs when into two halves or sides. East India kips are, therefore, exposed to moderate concentrations of alkali in the slit into two sides, called ‘kip sides’ before tanning absence of a reducing agent. The stabilization is and finishing. attributed to the replacement of disulphide cross-links Hump Sore — See ‘Kundha’. with more stable ones.

Hunting Calf — Suede upper leather with the suede Impregnated Bend — Sole leather bend which has on the flesh side, made from a larger calfskin or from been impregnated with wax, hard grease, rubbery

30 IS 1640:2007 polymers or other agents in order to make it more Industrial Glove — Glove leathers used for protecting water-resistant andlor durable. hands of the workers mainly made from chrome splits.

Impregnated Leather — Leather, which by means of In-the-Pearl, Rough, Crust, Blue, White — the addition of materials such as grease, wax andlor Approximately equivalent terms used to describe stock impregnating resins, etc has been improved in some which has been tanned but not finished. ‘In the-rough’ of its properties without thereby losing its typical or ‘rough tanned’ is most commonly applied to leather characteristics. vegetable tanned cattle hide leather; ‘in-the-crust’ to vegetable and ‘in-the-white’ to alum or formaldehyde India Rubber — Caoutchouc, coagulated latex of tanned sheepskins and lambskins; ‘in-the-blue’ to various rubber trees and shrubs. chrome tanned skins; ‘in-the-pearl’ to chrome tanned India Tanned — Term applied to hides and skins stock; ‘dried-in-the-blue’ to crust leather from which tanned in India. This leather is considered as a raw white or coloured leather will be made as needed. material and is generally ‘retanned’ before finishing. Also called E.I. tanned or East India tanned hides and In-the-Pickle — Term used to describe skins from skins. which the hair or wool has been removed and which are preserved in a condition ready for tanning, usually Indigo Value — Number of ml of 0.5 percent in a wet state with salt and acid and sometimes alum. potassium permanganate solution (w/v) required to neutralize 25 ml Qf indigo s~lution (prepared by Insole Belly — Vegetable tanned hide belly suitable treating 5 g of pure indigo-disulphonic acid with 50 g for insoles for footwear. of sulphuric acid and diluting to 1000 ml with water) Insole Leather — Hide leather, including flexible after dilution with 750 ml of water. splits, vegetable or combination tanned, in sides, bends, lnncs Acid Figures — When solutions of strong mineral shoulders and bellies, suitable for the inner soles of acids are diluted ten times, their pH value is increased footwear. by 1.0, whereas weak acids on similar dilution give a Inter-fibrillary Substance (Cementing Substance) figure of only 0.5. Innes had deduced that if a water — A well defined mass of substance uniformly soluble extract of a leather is diluted tenfold and the distributed throughout the dermis of hides and skins resultant increase in its pH value is 0.5, or less, then composed of gluco-proteins or mucins containing some only a weak acid is present in the water solubles, but if glucose or sugar in the molecules. It is insoluble in the increase in pH value on tenfold dilution is greater water but is only very slightly soluble in dilute solutions than 0.5, then some strong acid is present. of neutral salts; is digested by alcohol, trypsin and Industrial and Mechanical Leathers — Leathers used pepsin; and readily dissolved in weak solutions of for industrial purposes and in mechanical parts of alkali, such as lime liquor. The bating process helps to machines. The following types of industrial and make the final leather soft by the removal of this mechanical leathers are defined in this Glossary: substance from the pelt.

a) Bellows hide Intermediate Coat — See ‘Effect Coat’; known as b) Bellows leather middle coat also. c) Belting butt Internal Plasticizer — A soft polymer used to d) Belting lace back plasticize a hard polymer (for example, softer acrylics e) Engine leather in respect of harder acrylics and polyvinyl acetate in respect of polyvinyl chloride). The advantage is that f) Gas meter leather unlike in external plasticizing, the plasticizing soft Hat leather g) polymer does not migrate in course of time, making h) Helvetia lace leather the film brittle. ( see also ‘self-plasticized’). j) Helvetia leather Irish Moss — Dried sea weed of Ireland, and known k) Hose leather as Carragheen moss derived from the red algae, m) Hydraulic leather Chondvus crispus Lyngb harvested off the Atlantic n) Meter leather coast. On boiling the dried moss with water, a P) Raw hide belting leather gelatinous extract is obtained which is useful as a filler q) Raw hide lace and softening agent in leather finishes (see also r) Strap butt ‘Algin’). s) White hide leather Iron — Term used for measuring thickness of sole t) White lace leather leather; 1 Iron= 0.53 mm.

31 IS 1640:2007

Iron Black — Finely divided black antimony, prepared Japanese trees belonging to Rhus spp., fare. by reducing an antimony salt with zinc. Anacardiaceae. Also called Chinese wax.

Ironing — Process of hot pressing the finished and Jcrkins Leather — See ‘Clothing Leather’ calendered leather with a laundry iron to give the Jullundurs — Class of big, broad and spready but leather a smooth appearance. Ironing maybe done by rather shanky and open textured raw air-dried cow hides a hand iron or by an electrically heated ironing from Punjab. The heavier grades were formerly, machine. exported from Karachi (Pakistan) and the lighter ones Iron Oxide Pigment — Essentially iron oxides, for from Calcutta where they were classified as Agras. The example, raw and burnt umber, raw and burnt sienna, hides are generally coarser than those from East India ochres and red oxides such as Spanish brown. There (see also ‘Agras’). : are a number of commercial precipitated oxides of iron Jungle Suede — A two-tone irregularly coloured fine which arc favoured more than the natural oxides for suede leather, produced on the flesh side, dressed and their standard quality. There is also an iron oxide which dyed to simulate light and shade and to emphasis the is of black colour. veins and natural characteristics of the skin. 1ron Stains — Stains caused by iron compounds by K their reaction with vegetable tannins or vegetable tanned leather. Kahua Bark — Arjuna bark or bark of kahua, Terminalia arjuna Wight and Am., fare. Iron ‘rannage — Tannagc cffcctcd by basic iron salts Combretaceae, from Central India containing 20 to much in the same way as basic chrome salts. 24 percent tannin. The leather produced by it is of a Isinglass — Pure fish gelatin. reddish tint, but the colour maybe improved ifdhmva leaves myrobalans, sumac, etc, which have the Iso-electric Point — When referred to protein Iikc property of bleaching the red colour are used in collagen, it means the pH value at which the protein admixture with kahua bark. has no electric charge and has the least swelling. Usually, it is 4.7 for l~med collagen. Kamelahs — Hides from slaughter houses.

Ivory Black — Bone black. Kangaroo Leather — Leather from the skins of kangaroo, usually chrome tanned with a glazed finish, J resembles glace kid in appearance but the grain of Jachandars — Same as ‘Assorters’. kangaroo is much finer than that of glazed kid. It is stronger, weight for weight, than any other leather. Jack — Glazing machine, stoning machine or a light rolling machine is often called a glazing jack, stoning Kandha — Hindi equivalent for ‘hump sore’ or rolling jack. The pedestal, a support used for lasting Kanpurs — Goatskins, obtainable from Uttar Pradesh. shoes, is called lasting jack in the shoe industry. The They are spready with a regular grain and an open three-legged iron equipment with the end of the legs texture but the grain is not so fine as in Bengal skins, having the shape of the foot, used by cobblers in shoe the hair is coarse and long and the skins themselves repairing, is also called jack. are often badly stabbed with thorns. The skins are in Jacking — Setting and flattening sammed leather with demand for Moroccos in upholstery work and a dozen a stone tool attached to a jacking machine which is skins produce about 7.4 mz or more of leather. The similar to an inclined bed glazing machine. Jacking best of them are exported wet-salted to USA. removes creases and folds in the leather, Kaolin — Term interchangeable with china clay. A Japanned Leather — Another term for patent finish secondary clay aluminium silicate, chiefly used in on heavier types of Ieathcr. tannin analysis.

Japanning — Coating the flesh side of leather in KAZL4DA Bark — Bark obtained from a tree successive layers with ‘daub’ — a preparation of boiled Cleistanthus collinus (Roxb) Benth syn. Lebidiecropsis linseed oil, Prussian blue and lamp-black — and drying oribicularis Muell. Arg. fare. Euphor-biaceae, it in a warm stove or chamber or in the sun, to produce commonly distributed in Deccan northwards up to an artificially glossy surface. It is usually done on the Gangctic plain. Bark, leaves and fruits contain tannins. flesh side as opposed to enameling which is done on The bark contains 33 percent, leaves 19 percent, green the grain side of Icathcr. fruit 14 percent tannins. Sometimes used for tanning. KARADA is the name used in Orissa. Japan Wax, Sumac Wax — Vegetable spermaceti obtained from the berries of certain Chinese and Karakul — South African sheepskin with definite

32 I

IS 1640:2007 characteristics, on which there is more hair than wool. Kicker — Box like receptacle containing sawdust used They are packed on the following lines: for processing fur skins. Into this box dips a foot- shaped projection which is mechanically moved to and a) LK, Long, hair length 25 mm and over, fro for softening dry pelt. b) SK, Short, hair length under 25 mm, Kid — When applied to upper leather, a full chrome c) DLK, Damaged but long, hair length 25 mm leather made form kid or goatskin. The only exceptions and over, and to this are gold and silver kid, which may be semi- d) DSK, Damaged and short, hair length under chrome tanned. 25 mm. Kld Calf — See ‘Calf Kid’ Karunda — Leaves of Carissa spinai-um Linn., fare. Apocynaceae containing 9 to 15 percent of tannin and Kids — Skins of size smaller than 64 cm. constitutes a promising tanning material, particularly Killeds — Term formerly included ‘slaughtered’ and in combination with other tanstuffs, such as the twig ‘commissariats’ but is now used to denote practically bark of Emblica of$cinalis Gaertn. syn. Phyllanthus all ‘framed hides’. emblica Linn. Infusion of these leaves has a great Killing — Preparing wool or furskins for dyeing. swelling action on leather. Killing is often done with sodium carbonate, ammonia Karanj Oil — It is a non-edible oil obtained from the or ammonia and hydrogen peroxide. seeds of the plant Pongamiapinnata (Linn.) Pierre syn. Kino — A gene~al term used to designate gums of Pongarnia glubra Vent., fare. Leguminosse. In South various trees containing kinotannic and other tannins India it is known as pzmgam oil. which are mainly employed in tanning and also in Kattas (Kattais) — Light buffalo hides and buffalo pharmaceutical preparations as astringent. In India, calfskins weighing between 5.5 kg and 11.5 kg in the kino is obtained as a dried juice from the trunk and wet-salted condition are called kattas. The [ighter ones bark of various trees, such as weighing below 5.5 kg in the wet-salted condition are a) Pterocarpus marsu- Yields Indian kino or known as ‘kattais’. pium Roxb., fare. Malabar kino (tannin Leguminosae content 50 to 80 KA TTHA — A comparatively pale coloured substance percent). rich in catechin, but containing some catechin tannins. It is obtained mostly from the hot water extractives of b) Eucalyptus spp. fam For example, E. the heartwood of Acacia catechu Wind., and sometimes A4yrtaceae calophylla R. Br. used for chewing in betel leaf (PAN) and in the yields ‘Botany Bay indigenous system of medicine. Kino’; E. camaldul- ensis Dehn-hardt syn, Keratins —The basic substance in all horny structures, E. rostrata , Schlecht, such as the epidermis, hair, nails, horns, claws. It is yields Eucalyptus kino resistant to enzymes, acids and alkalis. or red gum.

Key Test — A practical test for ascertaining the grain c) Butea monosperma Yields ‘Butea gum’ or crankiness of leathers. The tip of a key is pressed to (lam.), Taub. ‘Bengal kino’ Kuntze syn. B. the flesh side of leather and drawn with medium force frondosa Koenig ex by hand. If there are no cracks observed on the grain Roxb., fare. side, then the leather passes the test. Leguminosae KHAIR Tree — Same as ‘Cutch Tree’. It contains a high percentage of tannin but imparts a Khari Salt — Saline earth containing sodium sulphate red stain. mixed chiefly with sand and mud used for preserving KIps, Commissariats, Slaughtered — Skins of animals hides meant for export. A soupy solution of this salt is slaughtered in army slaughter houses. applied to the flesh side of the hide 5 to 6 times, the hide being dried after each application, yielding a Kips, Dead — Light weight medium cow hides plaster of the muddy salt on the flesh side of the hide, (Indian) obtained from animals which have died a which is often made intentionally thicker to increase natural death. the weight. The hides are known in the trade as ‘dry- Kips, East Indian — See ‘East India Kips’. salted’, ‘khari-salted’, ‘khari s’,‘nimkis’ or ‘Plastered cured’. If the plaster is thick the cure is called ‘heavy’, Kiss Plate — Touching the finish face of a leather in a otherwise it is called ‘light’. hydraulic press with a plain plate just hot enough to

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IS 1640:2007 smoothen the finish and make it somewhat glossy but blackening certain classes of greasy or waxed leather without affecting the softness of the leather. and also in the preparation of ‘japan’ used in the making of patent, japanned or enamelled leather. Also used in Kiss Spot — Light stain on vegetable tanned hides making casein based pigment finishes of black colour. and skins due to pelts touching each other in the early stages of tanning. Laminated Leather — Normally composed of layers of leather laminated together. If a layer of another Knee-Staker — Metal blade set upright on a wooden material is incorporated the term is defined differently. support which may be a rigid upright portion of the stand or an upright stake. The skins for staking are Lanolin — A purified form of wool grease. worked over the blade using both hands and knee to Larch Bark — A tanning material available and used give the necessary pressure on the skin. Staking pulls in Scotland. apart the tibres of the skins which should remain quite soft on drying. Larrigan Leather — Oil-tanned light hides used largely for moccasins. Koch Extractor — An apparatus used for preparing extracts of solid tanning materials. Latigo Leather — Strong leather used extensively where strength and body are desired. Kormam Konnan Bark — Bark of a South Indian tree, Lattice Drums — Cage-like drums holding the stock Cmsia fistula Linn., fare. Leguminosae used as a but rotating with a low speed in a vat containing tan- substitute for avaram bark. It is not so rich in tannin liquor to accelerate vegetable tanning. (bark contains 12 to 18 percent tannin), as avai-am bark but gives a very smooth grained leather of a very pale Lauryl Sulphate — Lauryl alcohol, sulphated with colour. Also known as amaltas, rela, sonali. excess of concentrated sulphuric acid or with chlorosulphonic acid, used in fat liquoring and also as Kurbani Hides — Same as ‘Quorbani Hides’. an addition to fat liquors for clothing and glove leathers. Koshers — Hides and skins of animals, killed in the Layers — Series of vegetable tan liquors used in the Jewish manner. final stages of the repair band tannage of sole leather Kustias — Bengal goatskins cured both by wet-salting or in tanning with oak bark, and dry-salting. They produce tine grain on glace kid and Layer Vat — Vat of relatively strong vegetable tan are very popular for glace kid manufacture. Yield 3.7 to liquor into which sole leather hides are thrown after 4.3 m’ per dozen and weight 45 to 52 kg per 100 skins. preliminary tanning in rocker vats. L Laying Away — Putting the completely penetrated and Lace Leather — Leather used for lacing together tanned butts singly in pits in the final stage of sole sections of driving belts. leather tanning. A layer of ground tanning material (oak bark, mimosa bark, ground myrobalans, valonia beard) Lacquer — A solution of a film forming polymeric is sprinkled between butts, till the pit is full. The pit is material in an organic solvent. then run up with strong tan liquor usually prepared Lacquer Emulsions — Dispersion in water of a from extracts. solution of nitrocellulose or other film forming Laying Away in Grease — Allowing to age in the substances dissolved in organic solvents. greased condition.

Lake — Insoluble calcium, barium or manganese salt Laying-Bye — Covering a hide pack with salt in curing of a dye co-precipitated with an insoluble substrate and letting it stand so that the strong brine formed will such as alumina-blanc tixe. It is made by treating the seep through the entire pack. solution containing the dye and aluminium sulphate, Leach Casting Machine — A mechanical device set first with soda ash and then with barium chloride. in leaching vat to facilitate removal of the ground Lambskin — Skin of a lamb with fleece on. vegetable tan material after extraction of its tannin by hot water. Lambskin Leather — Leather made from lamb and sheepskins. The skins are almost identical in Leach House — The department of a tannery where appearance after tanning. raw vegetable tan materials are extracted with hot water and where vegetable tanning extracts are dissolved in Lamp Black — This is carbon in finely divided water to make strong stock liquors for the tan yards. condition prepared by the incomplete combustion of tar, colophony, vegetable oils and the pitch or heavy Leach Pit — Pits in which tannins from the vegetable oils of tar. It is used in the leather industry for material are extracted.

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Leaching—The process of preparing infusions of goatskin; embossed goatskin being called ‘Levant tanning material in leach pits. grained goatskin’.

Leather—A general term for hide or skin with its original Levelling Agent — Auxiliary syntan, which reduces fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be the affinity of tanning material or dyes on the surface imputrescible. The hair or wool may or may not have of leather thus preventing the patchiness during tanning been removed. Leather is also made from a hide or skin or dyeing and helping in uniform tanning or dyeing. which has been split into layers or segmented either before Light Cured — See ‘Cured, Light’. or after tanning, but if the tanned hide or skin is disintegrated mechanically and/or chemically into fibrous Light Hides — Hides of light weight, a steer hide particles, small pieces or powders and then, with or weighing from 22 to 26 kg or a cow hide weighing without the combination of a binding agent, is made into from 13.5 kg to 24 kg in the green, salted state. sheets or other forms, such sheets or forms are not leather. Lights, Halka — Cow hides of 1 to 4 kg dry weight. Leather Board — Scraps of leather ground in the form Lignin Extract — Solubilized lignin by-product of of pLdp and mixed with bonding materials like rubber the sulphite paper industry containing mainly latex and made into a sheet. lignosulphonic acids as calcium salts. Used in tanning Leather Carbonized — Leather which has been blends to modify the character of the tannin blend and ignited and l-educed to carbon, in adjusting pH, etc. Often called sulphite cellulose extract. Lignin extract is a usefhl adjunct in the Leather Charcoal — Charcoal made from leather vegetable and combination tannins. wastes. Lignin Sulphonates — Solubilized lignin by treatment Leather, Dressing — A variety of curried vegetable with sodium bisulphite. Made available to the tanner tanluxt leather LISedin making heavy boots and travel since 1866. Used along with tannin extract: (a) to reduce requisites (see a/so ‘Dressing Leather’). cost, (b) to reduce tannin affinity in the initial stages, (c) Leather Gauge — A graduated instrument for to prevent sludge formation, and (d) to adjust the pH. measuring thickness of leather. Lime Blast — Discolored spots on limed skins caused Leather in Crust Condition — Leathers which have by calcium carbonate deposits, leading to grain been tanned and dried but not finished, roughening.

Leather Powder — Leather which has been shredded Lime Burnt — Heat damage of pelts due to contact into fine particles. with unslaked particles of lime.

Leather Rough Tanned — Leather which has been Lime Fleshing — Fleshing hides and skins after the half tanned and not finished. liming operation.

Leather Substance — The sum of hide substance and Lime Liquor — Saturated solution of lime having fixed tan. In reporting analytical results of E. I. tanned excess of undissolved lime which forms a milky liquor hides and skins, it is taken as the difference between on stirring, used in unhairing hides and skins prior to 100 and the sum of the percentages of moisture, oil tanning. and fat, water solubles (adjusted to include all Mg as Lime Liquor, Mellow — Lime liquor which has a MgSOq, 7H20), and ash of insoluble in leather. mellow or mild caustic action and consequently Leather, Veiny — Leather showing marks or lines of produces less swelling and plumpness. A mellow lime blood veins on the grain surface. liquor may bc a little used liquor or it may be obtained by mellowing fresh lime liquor with ammonium salts. Lecithin — A group of phospholipids naturally occurring, amphoteric phosphatide or triglyceride in Lime Paint — Depilatory solution mixed with slaked which one fatty acid radical is replaced by a phosphoric lime or china clay to form a thin paint which is applied acid complex. The fatty components confer miscibility to the flesh side of sheep, goat or calfskin. with oil and hydrocarbons whilst the phosphoric radical Lime Paste — Mixture of slaked lime and water of accounts for its hydrophilic character. It occurs in egg thick consistency. yolk, soya bean oil and groundnut oil. Lime Pit — Rectangular brick or concrete pits in which Levant — Term used to describe leather from goat-, hides and skins are treated with lime liquor; varies in sheep- and scalskins drawn in tannage into a grain capacity from 1 350 to 5500 litres. pattern. Like ‘Morocco’ this name has come to define a pattern as well as original leather. The word unless Lime Process — The process in which hides and skins followed by ‘grain’ refers to leather from drawn are treated with lime liquors.

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Lime Soap – Soap formed by the action of lime of monitor) which are larger in width 175 to 350 oils and fats of hides and skins. cm and stouter. The grains are rounder and smaller than those of the yellows and are black Lime Splitting — Splitting of stout limed pelts, done pigmented, the pigment persisting even after on the band knife splitting machine. tanning. These cannot be coloured into delicate Lime Stains — Stains caused on pelts by lime liquors. shade and are hence rated lower in value than the yellows. (c) Greyish as well as the yellowish Liming — Soaking hides and skins in milk of lime for small grained, Sonugadi (Varanus griseus) of a few days to loosen or remove hair, and to plump and UP and Punjab. In size they are like the oval swell the hide. grained yellows but thinner and their grains are Lining, Leather — Leather used for making shoe small and round. The yellow ones produce a linings which include sheep, lamb, kid, goat, cattle, stainless leather but the others remain calf, kip and splits. pigmented with greyish spots even after tanning. They are usually valued even lower Lining Shearling — Tanned and dressed sheep or than the Bengal Blacks. lambskin bearing short wool suitable for use in lining footwear. Loading — Addition of such materials as glucose, magnesium sulphate, grease, etc, for conditioning of Lipases — Lipases or triacrylglyccrol acryl hydrolyses leather to modem ‘shoe machinery’. This is often are enzymes, which hydrolyse triglycerides at an oil- erroneously referred to as adulteration though it is an water interface. essential process, up to permissible limits. Liquid Dyes — Dyes in a concentrated solution form. Logwood, Campeachy Wood (Patang) — The Liquor Chute –- Channel through which liquor is heartwood of Haematoxylon campechianum Linn., made to flow from pit to pit. fare. Leguminosae constitutes the logwood of commerce which contains haematoxylin, the colouring Lithographic Leather — Leather made from the butts principle of logwood. It was originally obtained from of very spready cattle hides, used for covering the ink the Bay of Campeachy, but it is distributed in Central rolls of lithographic presses. America and Africa. The species H. campeachianum is cultivated in India. The dye extracted from the wood Lizardskins (Goshap) — Skins of a class of reptiles. is used for the production of black colour on leather The following are different commercial varieties: and fabrics, with the help of iron, chromium and a) Water Lizards or Ramgodi (Varanus Salvator) titanium mordants (see also ‘Haematin’ ). — Their skins have beautiful natural Loose Grained — A grain surface which is not tight markings, for which they are valued. Skins and compact (see also ‘Break of Leather’). of the mature animals measure 250 to 500 cm in width across the middle. Skins of width Lowenthal Method —A volumetric method of tannin from 175 to 250 cm are regarded as under- analysis where the tannin is oxidized by potassium sized and fetch much lower prices than the permanganate solution, though not very accurate often mature skins. Ramgodis are available employed as a routine method in the control of tan principally in Bengal, and skins from different liquors. districts differ considerably in their average Lower Ends — The lower grade goods in assortments. size, thickness, markings and flawlessness of the grain. Skins from Dacca and Barisal in Lucknows — Goatskins coming from Lucknow (Uttar East Pakistan are regarded as the best, while Pradesh) and the neighbourhood, cured partly by wet- those from Sunderbans are smaller in size and salting and partly by dry-salting. Like Kanpurs they are thinner in substance and consequently coarse and yield about 4.8 m2 of leather per dozen skins. regarded as inferior, though the markings of Lyotropic Agent —Agents, which can sever H-bonds. the Sunderbans skins are often very pretty. Both anions and cations have lyotropic effects for b) Land Lizards — These are of three varieties: example: Cl- and Ca+. The ions have been arranged in (a) The oval grained yellows (V. fluvescens) Hofmeister series. Lyotropic agents bring about coming mostly from Bengal, are the best as on denaturation of proteins and are responsible for tanning they yield a stainless leather which is permanent swelling in liming of hides and skins. greatly prized for ladies footwear because it M possesses pretty oval shaped protuberances on the grain which can be dyed in delicate shades. M — Abbreviation to denote ‘Mixed Assortment’ and (b) Bengal Blacks of kalagaddi (Varanus ‘Meherpore’, for example:

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MDD — Mixed Dacca, Deads; Mangrove Extract — The name mangrove kutch or MS — Meherpore Slaughtered; ‘cutch’ used for the tanning extract prepared from the mangrove bark is actually a misnomer but being in MD — Mcherpore Deads; and universal use it is accepted, the name ‘cutch’ being MR — Meherpore Rejections. originally used for the extract prepared from heartwood Machine Buff — See ‘Upholstery Leather’ of Acacia catechu. Mangrove ‘extract’ is regarded as the cheapest form of tannin available to the tanner. The Maclurin — Maclurin (moringatannic acid), Cl SHIOOC, average tan content of mangrove extracts (solid) is H20 and morin, C15H,.07, (flavone) are two nattlral probably about 65 percent with about 17 percent non- mordant dyestuff of a yellowish hue occurring in fustic. tans. The tannin is of the catechol class. It is very Morin is prepared by precipitation from an extract of soluble and has weight-giving property when used with old fustic (see also ‘Fustic’). heavy leather. However, it produces undesirable colour Madras — Goatskins and sheepskins coming from the which is very difficult to bleach, and the leather is also South-East Coast and the region behind it. inclined to be harsh and thick grained when mangrove is used alone. Malpighian Layer — Layer of epithelial cells in the epidermis next to the grain surface of the derma. Mangrove Liquor — Liquid extract, reddish brown in colour, extremely astringent and yielding a thin, Malni — Liquors of spent babul bark or myrobnuts harsh leather. It is a catechol tan, rich in neutral salts used either for drenching or for preliminary colouring but deficient in acid. of stock to be vegetable tanned, used in North India. Marbled Leather — Variety of fancy leather made Mange (kharish) — A parasite causing skin disease usually from sheepskins on which a mottled or marbled occurring in animals. effect has been produced by dyeing it in different Mangrove Bark — The term ‘mangrove’ is used in a shades of colour at different places. wide sense for any of the trees that may constitute the Marbling — The process of producing the marbled vegetation on the tidal mud flats of the tropics and part effect on leather. of the sub-tropics. While mangrove swamps or forests va~ from one part of the world to another, they all Market Hides — Bazar hides as opposed to slaughter have one constant and outstanding feature, namely, the house hides. presence of trees of a mangrove family Rhizophoracea Marks, Strain — The loose substance of most especially those belonging to such genera as sheepskins is liable to damage as a result of undue Rhizophora, Bi’uguicra, Avicennia and Ceriops. A straining in the process of take-off or curing. The effect notable feature of the mangrove trees is the richness is that the grain is damaged and the tensile strength of the bark in tannin. In India, several varieties of reduced. mangrove occur mainly in the Sundarbans in West Bengal. The more important species of mangrove Masked Tanning — Tanning with mineral tanning salt masked either with sodium or calcium salts of organic together with their indigenous names and average tannin contents are given below: acids developed by Theis et al in 1940s in the U.S. ensures quicker penetration and even distribution of Botanical Name Vernacular Name Tan chrome. Content of Bark Matadero Hides — Hides from Argentina (Percent) corresponding to city butcher or smaller packer hides

Rhizophora nnmwmta Ix&. bhara kandal 25 of the USA. — Rhizophora candelm-ia DC. 25 Mathanies — A local name for ‘heads’ (see also Ceriaps fagul (Perr.) C.B. chauri goran 29 ‘Mundas’ and ‘Heads’). Robins. syn. Ceriops can- dolleana Am. 1 Matrix — A mould built on the bed of an embossing Ce.iops decandra (Griffl bara goorun twig bark 19 to 25 press to sharpen the design of the pattern produced on Dinghov syn. Ceriops leaves 9to15 leather by the embossing plate. roxburghiana Am. 1 Bruguiera Conjugata (Linn.) kankra 28 to 35 Matt — Dull, lustreless, opposite of glossy. Merr. W. Lbwguiera rwmorhizza Lam. 1 Matt Finish — Dull finish.

The tannin content of mangrove is liable to vary a great Max White — Titanium dioxide ground in a mixture deal not only between different species but within the of casein, sulphated castor oil and parafh oil for use same species. in the fat-liquoring and finishing of white leathers.

37 1S 1640:2007

Mean Molecular Weight of Tannins — The value Alternatively, a base coat with good adhesion maybe obtained from the depression of the freezing point of followed with a marginally adhering contrasting colour the electrodialyzed solution of tannins containing 1 to coat and then milled and top-coated, Rota-gravure rolls 2 percent of total soluble. are now available to obtain Mill-off effect.

Meating —-Removal of particles of meat from the flesh Mimosa — Acacia decun-ens Wind., fare. side ofa hide or skin. Leguminosae. One of the numerous acacias growing Mechanical Leathers — Leathers used in various sorts naturally in Australia, also cultivated in South Africa, East Africa and South India (see also ‘Bark Wattle’). of industrial machinery. Medical Sheepskin — Tanned shearling used to Mimosa Bark — Commonly known as wattle bark prevent bedsores and capable of being repeatedly which is the bark of black wattle Acacia mearnsii De washed and disinfected. Wind.. syn. A. mollissima auct. non-Wind. Acacia decurrens Wind. var. mollis Lindl., fare. Leguminosae. Medium Buffs — Formerly sometimes referred to as It contains about 30 to 45 percent tannins and is ‘special machine buffs’ (see also ‘Upholstery Leather’). imported into India for use in vegetable tanning. Same Medium Lime — Lime liquor through which one pack species are now also grown in India (see also ‘Bark of hides has passed. Wattle’).

Mchcrporcs — Dry salted hides having a light cure Mimosa or Wattle Extract — Tanning extract made as opposed to Daccas which are thickly plastered with from wattle bark. Atypical commercial extract of bark salt earth or khari salt. Also known as ‘Deshis’. wattle may approximately have a tannin content of 62 percent and a soluble non-tan content of 20 percent Memel Finish — Finish with a memel grain (see a/so giving a ratio of about 3:1, Wattle is essentially a ‘Grain Memel’). catechol tanning material. It has a high PH value, a Metallic Pigments — Metallic flakes dispersed with low acid and salt content and a comparatively low a lubricant in an organic solvent to make a paste. viscosity especially in warm solutions. It is largely these Metallized Leather — Leather given a metallic lustre attributes that make it suitable for preparing tanning by the application of metallic foils or powders. blends suited to almost any purpose. Meter Leather —A special leather made from sheep, Mineral Syntans (Metal Complex Syntans) — High goat or calfskins in such a way as to make it air tight. molecular weight resinuous products with liganding lt is used for measuring bags of gas meters. Also known sites most suited for irreversible binding of the metals as ‘Diaphragm leather’. like Cr (111),Al (III) and Zr (IV). These are homogeneous complex mixtures, which will have the advantage of Mcthylaminc (Dimethylamine) Liquors — Used as uniform distribution in the leather. sharpening agents in lime liquors for use on hairy sheepskins for gloving and clothing leathers to obtain Mineral Tannage — Tannage effected by salts of silky grain. chromium, aluminium, iron and zirconium.

Micelle (Micella) (Collagen) — Ultimate units of the Mink — A small American stoat-like animal valued collagen fibrillar structure probably about 0.000002 for its fur. mm in diameter. Each micelle probably comprises 12 Mirbane Oil — Nitrobenzene having a characteristic polypcptide cross-linked chains. odour and preservative property, much used for Microbes — Micro-organisms like bacteria, fungi and preserving organic preparations which are likely to go nloulds. bad on storing, such as leather and shoe finishes.

Micro-emulsion — Emulsion in which the particle size Mitten — A glove without fingers. of the dispersed phase ranges from 10 to 60 V. Mitten Leather — A variety of durable quality glove Middle Split — The part(s) that are not from the grain leather made from calfskin by the chrome process. or flesh split when a hide or skin is divided into three or more layers. Mixed Tannage — Tannage effected by a mixture of tan materials. Instead of using an individual tanstuff Mill-off Effect — The effect is obtained by removing in bark tanning more than one material is sometimes part of the heavily pigmented coat with a relatively used in admixture, a practice which has been found to poor adhesion to the crust by dry drumming, when the yield very satisfactory results. leathers are completely ally. After milling, a highly resinated penetrating finish coat to seal the surface is Mocha — A kind of glove leather (see also ‘Glove applied as top coat. Leather’),

38 ],111 .11 .J.. 1..—- ... ..

IS 1640:2007

illodulus — The tensile stress required to stretch the of any vegetable tannage that has been hand boarded test piece from the unstrained condition to a fixed in wet condition but in the strict sense it should be elongation. limited to goatskins tanned exclusively with sumac. Leather made from vegetable tanned goatskins with a Moellon Degras — See ‘Dcgras Moellon’. grain resembling that of genuine Morocco but Moellon Oil — See ‘Degras Moellon’. produced otherwise than by hand boarding, for example, by embossing or embossing followed by Mold — Any one of the saprophytic fungi which form boarding, should be termed ‘Morocco grained goat’, slimy or cottony growths on foodstuffs, leather, etc. or ‘Assisted Morocco’. Molybdate Value — The molybdate value is given by Morocco Leather — Fancy vegetable tanned goatskin the expression: with distinctive grain pattern used for book binding, upholstery work, etc. The process for making this (b- a) —Xlooo leather was originally developed by the Moors of c Morocco.

where Moths — Insects of the order Lepidoptera akin to butterflies; their caterpillars feed on leaves and a h= weight of the residue obtained from the variety of products including hides. reaction between tnolybdated reagent and tannin solution, dissolved in hot water and Mould — See ‘Mold’. re-evaporated; Mould Green — Mould producing green coloured a = weight of the residue obtained after spores. evaporating to dryness 10 ml of filtrate obtained by reacting 10 ml of tannin solution Mould White — Mould producing white coloured (4 times of the analytical strength solution) spores. Also referred to as ‘bread mould’. and 10 ml of molybdate reagent, a mixture Mouldy — Covered with or resembling mould. containing 10 percent solution of ammonium molybdate and 15 percent Mucilage — A soft jelly-like material of vegetable ammonium chloride solution, well mixed substances prepared for leather finishing to produce a and filtered; and flexible tilm on leather.

c= actual tannin content as obtained by hide Muco-protein — Proteins combined with amino sugar powder method from 10 ml of tannin type of protehtic groups. solution. Mucilage — A soft jelly-like material of vegetable Montan Wax, Lignite Wax — A hard wax obtained substances prepared for leather finishing to produce a by extraction from American and German lignites. It flexible film on leather. is used as a substitute for camauba wax and beeswax. Mucins — The viscid secretion of the mucous Monton — A sheepskin shearing tanned and finished membrane, proteins, known as gluco-proteins which for fur purposes. occur in the intertibrillary or cementing substance of Moon Knife — Circular blunt edged knife with a hides and skins. wooden handle in the centre used for softening the Mud Cow Hides (or Mud Buffaloes) — Cow or leather. buffalo hides thickly plastered with mud during curing Mordant Dyestuff — Dyestuff that can be fixed on by dry-salting. tibres only with the aid of a mordant. Mud Curing — Curing by the use of muddy khai-i Mordants — Substances used for fixing (rendering salt. It is alleged that mud sometimes completely insoluble) dyes on tibres. They are of two kinds: replaces the salt. (a) metallic mordants, for example, aluminium salts, Mundas — See ‘Head’. and (b) Tannin mordants. Murdari — Same as ‘Deads’. Maria — See ‘Fustic’ and ‘Maclurin’. Mutton Suet — Hard fat round the kidneys of sheep. Morocco — Goatskin leather with a characteristic grain pattern developed naturally or by hand boarding Muzafferpores — Goatskins obtainable from Western or graining only. The commonest and most Bihar, with very-fine grain, white or patchy white silky characteristic grain is hard grain. By long usage, hair, close texture, good for producing glace kid. They especially in the fancy goods trade, denotes goatskin rank with the ‘Darbhangas’.

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Myrobalans — Fruits of Terminalia chebula Retz. fare. with phenol or naphthalene-sulphuric acid used as Combretaceac containing about 30 to 32 percent tanning agent. This was the forerunner of a group of pyrogallotannin. There are 4 chief market qualities J’s similar substances since prepared and used as synthetic (Jubbalpores), V’s (Vingolras), B’s (Bhimlipatams) and tanning materials. R’s (Rajpores). Myrobalan liquor has a bleaching Neutralization — A process done to offset the acidity action on Icathcr. The finest myrobalans, obtained from or alkalinity of liquor. In connection with chrome Salem, are reserved exclusively for bleaching E. 1. leather, it means reduction in the acidity of the freshly tanned goats and sheep (see also ‘Salem, Myrobalan’). chrome tanned leather to avoid troubles in dyeing, fat- Myrobalan Extract — The solid extract is prepared liquoring and finishing. The acidity is reduced by by extracting the myrobalan nuts of Terminalia chebulu treating the chrome leather first with a wash in tepid Retz. fare. Combretaceac with water and evaporating water and subsequently with a weak solution of a weak the extract. The extract has about 55 percent tannin alkaline reagent. The leather is not rendered neutral, and 30 percent soluble non-tans. The powdered or but the pH value of the leather rises to 5.5 to 6.0. spray dried extract has a higher tannin content of about Nick — A notch. 60 percent. Myrobalan extract liquor deposit insoluble matter, that is, bloom, on standing. It is well suited for Niger — Goatskin and less commonly sheepskin blending with other tans and is generally so used. leather with a natural grain pattern arising from the nature of the skin and the processes and hand working Myrtan — SeL?‘Redunea Extract’. employed, tanned in Nigeria and contiguous districts N by primitive methods, usually employing babul pods as the tanning agent. Nancc Process — A process of tanning under high vacuum in which the water is expelled from the pores Nigrosine — Basic azine dyes strongly chelated to iron of the pelt at a temperature of 2° to 27°C in the form of that the metal cannot bc easily removed. Has deep blue vapour thus facilitating quick penetration of tan liquor colour very close to black absorption region converting into the pelt. the entire visible range extending into the near IR also. In conjunction with phenolic bodies, they give very Nap —Velvety surface of cloth or leather, soft velvety deep black colour. Produced as amorphous powder. feel of the buffed leather. Soluble in dimethyl formamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, Nap Finish — Velvety finish given to the outer surface chloroform or equal mixtures of lower alcohols and of leather after the natural grain layer of the leather is lower aromatic hydrocarbons. Soluble in pure removed. aromatics or alcohols only in the presence of some fatty acids. Nappa Leather — Soft, full grain gloving or clothing leather made from unsplit sheep, lamb, and goat or Nitrocellulose Finish — Solutions of specially kid skins. It is usually tanned with alum and chromium manufactured nitrated cotton and a resin and plasticizer salts and dyed throughout its substance. In France and in a solvent ester usually butyl acetate. The product Germany also made from side leather for footwear and can be diluted with methylated spirit, toluol or leather goods purposes. petroleum solvents, and the resulting solution may be sprayed on to the grain surface of the dyed leather and Napalan — Finished (PU) suede leather. Also written dried to give a waterproof finish. as Nappalan. Non-tan — That part of total solubles, usually sugary Nappalan Finish — Finishing on the flesh side (with matters, gallic acid, soluble mineral salts and other or without designs) with a PU finish so that a garment acids which have no tanning property and are not made of such leathers does not require any lining and absorbed by the hide powder but give weight and has the capacity to keep the wearer warm. fullness to the leather.

Native Hides — Term used to designate American Non-tannin — Same as ‘Non-Tan’. hides from steers, cows or bulls and free of brands. North Western — A variety of cow hides from the Natural Dyestuffs —Vegetable colouring matters. The area extending from the Himalayas to Bhopal and most important natural dyestuffs used in the tanning Allahabad to Saharanpur barring the areas specified indust~ nowadays are logwood, fistic and perch wood. under ‘Agras’. These hides are fairly even in substance and clean as regards the grain but are liable to warbles Nellores — Hides from Andhra Pradesh State. Some caused by the bot fly. They are generally air-dried but hides are badly branded and of poor quality. are sometimes dry-salted, when they are in every way Neradol — Condensation product of formaldehyde superior to Daccas and Meherpores.

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Novolaks — Thermoplastics, soluble phenol- Ochre — Also called yellow ochre, oxide yellow, formaldehyde resins obtained by use of acid catalysts Chinese yellow. A natural pigment consisting of of excess phenol; can be cured to thermosetting, hydrated oxides of iron and manganese mixed with insoluble form with hexamethylenetetramine. Used clay and sand. The term is frequently restricted to a principally in finishing leather. pale yellowish brown variety.

Nubuck — A chrome tanned leather usually calf or Offal — The less valuable parts of a hide such as the sue(ic which is buffed on the grain side to give a nap heads, shoulders, and bellies. surface. White nubuck is very popular. Oil, Birch — Oil obtained by the distillation of birch Nut, Gall — See ‘Gall Nuts’. tar, consists of phenols, guaiacol, cresol and xylenol. o Also used in medicine and as a disinfectant (see also ‘Russia Oil’, ‘Russia CalF and ‘Russia Leather’). 0 — Sometimes used as abbreviation for ‘Original’ as Oil, Castor — See ‘Castor Oil’. well as ‘Ordinary’, for example, CCSO-Calcutta I Commissariats Slaughtered Original. Oil Chrome Leather — Chrome side leather dipped OITZ — Octyl Iso ThiaZolinone. Used alternatively in molten paraffin wax. for PCP in preservation, Oil, Cod Liver —Yellow brown oil obtained from the liver of the cod used in tanning and currying of leather Oak Apple — A spongy substance or gall formed by and also in medicine. insects upon oak leaves.

Oak Bark — An important tannin material especially Oil, Cold Test — An oil after drying at 105 percent is placed in different glass vessels surrounded by cooling in European countries. In the UK the two most common oaks, serving as traditional material for the tanner have mixtures kept at O“C, –5°C, –10”C and –20°C been, Quercus robur Linn. syn. Q. pedunculatia Ehrh respectively. Th oil should keep clear for one hour afier and Quercuspetraea Liebl. Syn. Q, sessilljlora Salisb., it has reached the temperature of the test. This test is fare. Fagaceae. In general the tannin content of English essential for detecting the presence of saturated fatty oak bark varies from 8-13 percent. Oak bark tannin is acids and trisaturated fatty glycerides which separate predominantly a mixture of pyrogallol and catechol at this ternpemture. tannin. OiI, Croton — TigIium oil, obtained from seeds of Oak Bark Tannage — Tannage with oak bark in pits Croton tiglium Linn., fare. Euphorbiaceae. Brownish without hot pitting for 5 to 6 months by a process yellow oil of poisonous nature, used as denaturant for embodying layering for not less than 3 months. curing salt.

Oak Tanned Leather — Leather tanned with oak bark Oil, Dark Brown Cod — Poorer quality cod liver oil or extract in combination with other types of tanning mostly used by tanners. materials. Oil Dressing — The process of tanning with animal

Oak Wood — Wood of the oak tree, particularly those oils, which are used in the manufacture of certain soft found in Yugoslavia used for tanning purposes. It is leathers particularly chamois skins after undergoing fairly astringent and is rich in sugary matter. the preparatory processes, are impregnated with the oil by heating or kneading in a machine known as Oak Wood Extract -– Tannin extract from the ‘stocks and kickers’. heartwood of oak particular] y from the two common European oaks Quercus robur Linn. and Quercus Oil, Drying — See ‘Drying Oil’. petraea Liebl. syn. Q. sessill~ora Salisb., fare. Fagacea Oiled Leather — Leather which has been treated with containing usually 6 to 9 percent of tannin. Formerly oil. the extract obtained was marketed in the liquid form (tannin content about 26 percent) but for some years it Oil of Eucalyptus — An essential oil distilled from has been mainly prepared in the solid form (tannin the leaves and branchlets of Eucalyptus globulus content 60 to 65 percent). It yields a darker coloured Labill., fare. Myrtaceae and used as an antiseptic in leather than oak bark. It is used mainly for the tanning leather finishes. of sole leather and other heavy leather, for it has good Oil, Fatty — Fat which is liquid at ordinary weight giving properties and good water resistance. temperature. Oak wood extract is a tannin of the pyrogallol class. It is usually mixed with other tanning materials in order Oil Fish — Drying oil obtained from all parts of to obtain modification of colour. different species of the common fish.

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Oiling Off — The process of rubbing oil on the grain for the manufacture of raw hide pickers and also as an side of wet or sammed leather with the object of making oiling and fat-liquoring constituent. the leather soft and in the case of vegetidble tanned Oil, Sulphated — Product of treatment of vegetable, leather, preventing the colour of the tannages from animal or fish oil with sulphuric acid with subsequent darkening by oxidation which it will do if the surface washing and neutralization and used as emulsifier, is not protected from direct exposure to air by a thin wetting and softening agent. These oils are also coat of oil before drying. Practically, all vegetable commonly known as sulphonated oils though the term tanned leathers are oiled off before dyeing, fat- is a chemical misnomer. liquoring and striking out. A chrome tanned leather is oiled off after dyeing, fat-liquoring and striking out. Oil Tannage — Process of tanning with animal oils, used in the manufacture of certain soft leathers Oil, Linseed (Flaxseed Oil) — A yellow to brown oil particularly chamois and certain kinds of buckskin. obtained by expression or solvent extraction of the Generally, fish oils are used for this purpose. seeds of the flax plant Linum usitatissimum Linn., fare. Linaceae. Used in the manufacture of paints, varnishes, Oil Tanning — A process of tanning involving the lacquers and for other purposes. Much used in patent incorporation of fish or marine animal oils into leather manufacture. prepared skins. These oils are subsequently induced to undergo oxidation and other chemical changes in Oil, Mineral — Earth Oil, petroleum. contact with the skin fibres, leading to chemical Oil, Mustard — A fatty oil from seeds of Brassica combination of oil derivatives with the skin. nigra (Linn.) Koch B. hirta Moench. syn. B. alba Oil, Thyme —An essential oil used as an antiseptic in Boiss.; B. alba Hook. f. and Thorns. fare. Cruclferae. leather finishes.

Oil, Neatsfoot (Bubulum Oil, Hoof Oil) — Pale Oil, Turkey Red — Sulphated castor oil. yellow liquid obtained from shin bones and hooves of cattle, used in leather manufacture as a lubricating and Oil-Wheeling — Drumming sole leather after waterproofing agent. Much used for fat-liquoring extracting, tempering, bleaching and rinsing with glazed kid after emulsification with soap or after various materials to increase the yield of leather and sulphation. improve its properties.

Oil Pull-Up — Two-tone effect observed when a Ooze Calf — Chrome tanned calfskins are finished leather is pulled up; the lighter colour at the place of into several kinds of fancy leather. The skins for ooze application of force is due to differential distribution calf leather after tanning are fat-liquored with egg yolk of oil caused by the pulling force. Made by brushing and flour and then dried. The fancy ooze colours can suitable non-volatile oil of low viscosity and high be obtained by, bottoming with sumac or fistic extracts refractive index on dyed crust leather followed often and some mordants like ferrous sulphate, tartar emetic by a resin, protein or PU finish. or titanium potassium oxalate, then colouring with basic dyes or by colouring with acid or direct dyes and Oil, Rape — Brownish yellow oil obtained from rape some times topping with basic dyes. Some light shades seed Brassica campestris Linn. var toria Duthie and are also made with pigments. Fuller fare. Crucl~erae which is the source of the oil, Indian rape. Ooze Finish — See ‘Suede Finish’.

Oil, Sassafras — An essential oil obtained from the Ooze Leather — Prepared by snufhg the grain until roots of Sassq{ras albidum Nees, fare. Lauraceae, used it has a soft velvety appearance. as an antiseptic in leather finishes. Open Vat Extraction — Process of extraction of tannin carried out in open vats. Oil-Seal Leather — A highly specialised impregnated heavy Ieathcr with high resilience to heat for use in Optically Clear Solution — A solution shall be mechanical equipment where oil leakage has to be considered optically clear if a bright object is clearly prevented. visible through a 5 cm thick layer, and if a 1 cm layer in a beaker placed on black glass or paper appear black Oil, Shark Liver — Oil extracted from the liver of and not opalescent when viewed from above in good shark. light. Oil, Sod — See ‘Sod Oil’. Organized Ferments — Certain plants like fimgi have Oil, Sperm -– Sperm whale oil. A light yellow liquid no chlorophyll and are, therefore, compelled to obtain which is a true wax even though a Iiqu@. Used as a their organic nourishment from their immediate high grade lubricating oil. In the leather trade, it is used surroundings which they accomplish directly or

42 IS 1640:2007 indirectly by means of the enzymes they secrete. The Ozokerite, Ceresin Wax, Earth Wax, Mineral Wax, lower forms of these fungi constitute the organized Cerosin, Cerin — Natural wax of white, yellowish- ferments. The moulds in tan liquor and in leather come black or green colour occurring in the vicinity of coal under these. in GaIicia, Poland, Utah, Wyoming and other places. Soluble in benzene, turpentine, carbon disulphide and Organic Pigments — Organic dyes insoluble or other organic solvents. It consists of paraffin insolubilized to act as pigments, brighter, purer and hydrocarbons and is used in the manufacture of richer in colour than their inorganic counterparts but candles, sealing wax, paints, polishes, waxed paper, more susceptible to sunlight, chemical attack and bleeding and also more expensive. bottles for hydrochloric acid, in ointments and as a general size. Organ Leather — Various types of leather used for organ pipes, also manufactured from the caecwn or P blind gut of animals. pH — Negative logarithm of H+ ion concentration of Orthopedic Leather — A general term for the types a solution, Actually pH increases with OH-ion of leather in the manufacture of artificial limbs, braces, concentration. At pH = O, the H+ concentration is unity etc for orthopedic purposes. The leather may range and when this concentration is minimum the pH is from Chamois and horsehide glove to case and strap actually negative. This scale was devised by Sorensen leathers. in 1909 and introduced in leather technology in 1911 by Wood and colleagues. pH changes indicate the Osage Orange — A yellow vegetable dyestuff, very charge profile of hide/skin/leather and hence very much like fustic, available in America. important in the penetration and fixation of charged Osmotic Swelling — Swelling caused by the osmosis species by the amphoteric collagen/leather. NeutralpH of water into the hides and skins when the latter are is 7.0. Below 7.0 is taken as acidic and above 7.0 is immersed in acid or alkali solutions. taken as alkaline.

Otter — An amphibious animal that frequents rivers Pachhims — Term applied at Kanpur (UP) to all cow and lives on fish. The animal is prized for its short, hides coming from Western districts which are superior soft and silky fur. to hides coming from the Eastern districts which are called ‘Purub s’. Ounce — Term used to indicate weight or substance of certain kinds of leather (such as upholstery, bag and Pachydermata — A group (now abandoned as case leather). In theory, it is based upon the assumption unnatural) of non-ruminant hoofed mammals usually that one square foot of leather will weigh a certain having a thick skin. It includes elephants, number of ounces and will uniformly be of a certain hippopotamuses, rhinoceroses, etc. thickness; hence a three-ounce leather will theoretically Pacific Coast Hide — Hide of an animal slaughtered, be a leather weighing three ounces per square foot. In flayed and cured in one of the recognized packing practice this varies because of specific gravity of plants on the Pacific coast of America. various tanning materials used ~nd for that reason a splitter’s gauge has been adopted which controls the Packer Hide — Hide of an animal slaughtered, flayed commercial thickness of leather when sold by the and cured in a recognized packing plant in America. square foot. An ounce is equivalent to 0.40 mm in thickness. Packing Leather — See ‘Hydraulic Leather’.

Overflow Liquor — The vegetable tan liquor that Paddle — A rotating system of radial wooden planks flows out of a system of connected vats when one of fitted to wooden circular plates at the two ends. The the vats is strengthened by the addition of stock liquor. paddle is partly immersed in a pit containing the liquor and stock being processed and provides the much Overflow Vat — A vat used to receive and store needed agitation when it rotates. overflow liquor from a series of tanning vats. Painted Hides — Hides, the flesh sides of which have Over Short Buffer — Machine equipped with an been treated with a lime-sulphide mixture. emery wheel for buffing the flesh side of damp, small skins, as in the making of suede leathers. Painting — The application to the flesh side of raw hides and skins of lime paint which is a mixture of Oxazolidine — N and O containing heterocyclic slaked lime, water and sodium sulphide or sodium compound used either as a pretanning agent or along hydrosulphide. with chrome. Leathers pretanned with it can be degreased at higher temperature. When used with Pancreatic Ferments — Enzymes, chiefly trypsin, chrome it serves to exhaust the bath. present in the pancreatic juice. The pancreatic ferments

43 1S 1640:2007 have an efficient bating action on hides and skins and and to some extent spoilt by careless drying. They are in fact are the constituents of the artificial bates of the the smallest in size, yielding about 3.7 to 4.3 mz of trade. Some of these ferments have also been found leather per dozen skins, and the lightest about 45.4 kg suitable for unhairing hides. per 100 skins. The skins are cured by dry salting. These have great deal of warble holes. Pancrcatin — Enzymes chiefly trypsin obtained from the pancreas of an animal. Pattern — The shape given to a hide in flaying or curing. Pan Scale — Calcium sulphate from brine crystallization used in cattle feed and as a fertilizer. Pattern of Hide — Contour of a hide when laid out flat. Paperiness — Emptiness of leather due to less filling up or due to lack of substance. Pattern, Poor –-An outline or contour of a hide or skin which when laid out flat does not conform to the Parcel (Raw Skins) — 500 pieces weighing ordinarily standard or correct pattern adopted by the trade. 150 to 160 kg approximately, but may go up to lots of 450 kg. Peach Wood — See ‘Brazil Wood’.

Parchment — Translucent or opaque skin material Pebbled Grain — Denotes the wrinkled grain that is with a smooth surface suitable for writing, bookbinding likely to be formed when fallen hides are in an extended and other purposes. It is made from thin skins of sheep, condition, and are put in a paddle for tanning. The free goat, calf, pig or ass, by drying out the limed material motion in the paddle favours the formation of pebbled without applying any tannage, the material being grain. thoroughly cleansed, degrcazed and smoothened Pebbling Machine — Machine used for making the during the process. leather smooth by working with a marble slicker. Pasting (Paste Drying) — Drying damp leather in a Peccary — See ‘Glove Leather’. stretched out condition by pasting leather, with the flesh side up, with an adhesive to a smooth glass or enamelled Pelt — Limed hidelskin; hidelskin in the pretanning plate. Pasting imparts to leather a smooth grain surface processes. and a larger area than drying by toggling or nailing. Pelt Weight — Weight of hides and skins in the limed Patent Finish — Glossy finish made with cooked (by condition or in any condition after liming and before boiling) linseed oil applied in three coats — the daub tanning. (0.002 5“ thick), the brush coat (0.002 S“ thick) and Pendulum Jigger -— Pendulum glazing machine the varnish coat (0.005” thick). Naphtha was used to which can also be worked by hand. thin the varnish. Pigments/Metallic powders were also incorporated in the daub coat. Film formation is by Penetration Time — Duration of flexing in minutes the oxidation of the liquid varnish into a solid film. which is just suficient to cause water to penetrate from The finish is alternatively known as ‘Japanning’ or the wetted (grain) surface to the other face of the ‘Enameling’. The advent of PU finishes for making material. patent leathers has relegated this classical finish to Pepper Box — The pattern produced on grain surface background. The thickness of PU patent finish films is of leather from grubby hides which often resembles in the range of 100 to 120 m. buck-shot marks. Patent Leather — Leather with a lustrous mirror-like Percentage Basicity — The number of hydroxyl surface, built up by the application of one or more coats groups borne by a chromium unit as a percentage of daubs, varnishes or lacquers pigmented or non- fraction of the same present in chromic hydroxide. pigmented, based on linseed oil, nitrocellulose, polyurethane aucb’or other synthetic resins. In certain Perch — Equipment used in light leather tanneries countries laminates of a similar appearance may be which consists of an overhead horizontal beam classed as patent leather, but different countries limit mounted on to ‘A’-shaped legs and having a groove the proportion or thickness of the plastic film in along the centre of the beam. There is another circular different ways. wooden rod which can be lifted or lowered to fit in the grove. Crust skin is clamped in the groove of the perch Patent Plastic — See ‘Plastic Patent’. by means of the rod which is secured by a special clamp Patnas —A variety of cowhides or a class of goatskins at one end of the perch. The skin is thus securely fixed air dried and obtainable from Western Bihar. They on the perch and hangs down and its flesh side is generally have a considerable quantity of flesh adhering worked with a moon knife which softens the skin to them and the large majority of them are ‘crumpled’ without raising any grain on the grain side.

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Perching Knife — Moon knife used in perching Picking Band Leather — Specially tanned leather used process for making the leather soft. for cutting into various types of leather straps called picker straps or picking bands used in textile mills. Permanent Swelling — Swelling brought about by Iyotropic agents (see ‘plumping’). Pickling — Treating the delimed stock with acid and salt to lower the pH, preparatory for chrome tanning. Persian Morocco — Hair sheepskin with morocco Pickling is done for temporary preservation also. grain, natural or embossed. The term is applied in bag trade to sheepskins and in the book trade mostly to Plush Wheeling — Hand polishing using a rotating goatskins (as distinguished from ‘Turkey Morocco’) wheel with a grinder stone/plush cloth. but it should be correctly confined to hair sheepskins. Prc-metallized Dyes —Azohydroxylazomethine dyes Persians — Crust leathers made from India-tanned hair complexcd with chrome prior to application to the sheepskin also called E.I. tanned sheepskins. Term substrate to be dyed. should be confined to India tarmcd sheepskins although Pickled Skins -— Skins for export, usually unhaired, it formerly inchrdcd goatskin. Leather from ‘bastard packed in barrels or casks with a saturated brine skins’ (see’ Bastard’ ) is sometimes designated as Persian. solution sometimes mixed with alum. Persian Skiwr —A thin grain layer split from an E.I. tanned sheepskin :iftcr dressing. Pickling -– The treatment of scudded and bated skins or drenched skins with a solution of salt and acid, such Phenoloxidme — An enzyme used for oxidizing as sulphuric, hydrochloric, formic, etc, to preserve thcm tannins. Obtained from the Icft colleterial gland of or as a preparation for the tanning operation so as to cockroach, B[a~ta orienta[is, which secretes a watery prevent drawn grain. Pickling brings the pelt into a solution of a non-coagulablc protein in which lipids non-swollen acid condition which is very necessary as are absent, but which contains a phenoloxidase. a preliminary to the one-bath chrome tannage. Phosphate Tan — Phosphates can be used to tan pelts; Comnlonly used before chrome tanning but not, polymeric sodium mctaphosphates have superior generally, in vegetable tanning. Pickling also preserves properties. Polyphosphatcs may be employed as pre- limed and delimed pelt in a sound condition and enables tannage. Phosphates can also be used as sequestering them to be exported in wooden casks. agents. pigment (Colouring Matter) — A finely ground Phosphorated Oils — Oils treated with phosphorus opaque coloured material insoluble in water often pentoxide to endow them with special characteristics. adclcd to leather finishes to provide colour and to mask defects in the grain surface of the leather. Phlobaphene — Red coloured deposits formed by condensed tanning materials due to acid-induced Pigment Finishes — Finishes and coating colours polymerization, made from either mineral pigments or from lakes, used for the production of level shades of colour on leather Phosphate Fatliquor — Fatliquor in which the oi! and arc extensively used in the finishing of leather. has been transesterified with phosphoric acid. Pigment Leather — Leather to whose surface a finish Phosphate Oils — Made by trans-esterification of containing tine pigment particles in suspension has an oil with phosphoric acid to replace some of the fatty been applied sometimes called ‘doped’. acids of the oil. The chief advantages of these are: Pigskin — Skin of a young swine, generally used for a) They can react with collagen as well as the manufacture of saddle leather, fancy leather goods mineral tanning agents like chromium and and other purposes (see also ‘Glove Leather’). alurninium. Being reactive lubricants thus, the desired degree of lubrication can be had with Pigskin Strips — Rectangular pieces of pigskins lesser amount of phosphate oil. obtained from lard containing portions of the animal, b) They can hold four times more raw oil than the rest of the skin being usually left on the meat. These sulphited/sulphated oils and hence can impart strips are used by tanners. greater fulliless to leather. Pile-Up — The volume of leather per unit weight; the c) Moreover, they- can act as fire-retardants too. number of square feet of leather eight iron thick per 100 lb of leather at 12 percent moisture content; 115.5 Piano Leather — A name covering special quality divided by the apparent specific gravity of the leather leathers used for various purposes in the manufacture at 12 percent moisture content. of pianos both manual and mechanical. The leathers are nmdc from selcctcd skivers, full grain sheepskins Pine Bark — Among the true pines, F’inus spp., fare. or deerskins. Pinaceae, many species are known to contain tannin

45 1S 1640:2007 in the bark, the amount varying from less than 5 percent Plating — Producing a smooth grain surface on leather to over 20 percent in a few instances. The bark of the by pressing it on a bed with a smooth heated metal chir pine, Pint/s roxburghii Sarg. a common tree in the plate under very high pressure. Himalayas has been used in that region for local Pleating — Folding, braiding. tanning. It may contain from 11 to 16 percent tannin. Pine bark of other Pirms spp., has also been used locally Pliable — Supple, flexible. for tanning in Northern Europe, North America, Ncw Plump — Fat and distended, Zealand, South Africa and Australia. It gives a light colourcd leather with a fine pine oil smell. Plump Hides — Stout and substantial hides. Swelling of the pelt imparting, a rubbery feel and elasticity. Pinholes —The wool follicles of heavy woolled sheep go deep into the substance and if the wool is not Plumping — Softening and swelling of hide fibres sufficiently loosened some of the grain tissue is dragged containing a little amount of water. Plumped pelt is a away when the wool is pulled, causing pinholes. bit elastic.

Pinned Belly (Pinned Shoulder) — Set out and rolled Plumping Agent — Chemicals causing plumpness. leather made from a vegetable tanned cattle hide belly Plumping Power — Capacity for causing plumpness. or shoulder. Pocca Marks — See ‘Goad Marks’. Pin Seal or Pin Grain -—Natural grain of high grade sealskin tanned for fancy leather; also imitated on Poky Hides — Hides bearing marks of the ravages of sheepskins, goatskins, calfskins and cow hide which ticks. Also called ticky hides. should be described as ‘pin grain Sheepskins’ or ‘pin Polyphenols — A constituent of all parts of plants. grains’. Synonymous with gallic acid, tannins. Pipey — See ‘Grain, Pipey’. Pungam Oil — See ‘Karanj Oil’. Pit Liming — A method in which hides and skins are Poor Pattern — See ‘Pattern, Poor’. limed in rectangular brick or concrete pits varying in size from 1 300 to 50000 literes according to the class Post Mortem Changes — Chemical and structural of goods to be processed. The pits may be sunk to changes that naturally occur, in a hide between the time ground level or maybe built above the ground. They of slaughter and that of the curing or other preservative arc provided with waste exits or the liquor removed by operations. pumping. The smaller pits are used for skins and larger Pound — A unit of measurement. For dry or dry- ones for hides. salted hides, a hide pound is equivalent to 20 ordinary Pit Tannage — Tannagc, especially of sole Ieathcr, pounds. But for wet-salted hides a 16 pound is used cffectcd in pits. as the unit. Pitted Leather — Leather with holes larger than Pressing — Removing the bulk of water from wet pinholes caused by bacterial action on leaving the skins leather by means of a hydraulic press. too long in the soak pits in warm weather. Press Leach System — System of extracting tannins Plastered Kips — Dry-salted kips. from vegetable tanstuffs in which the liquor passes from pit to pit round the battery by virtue of its own Plastic Patent — A material made from vinyl resins weight and a constantly increasing specific gravity. or other materials to resemble patent leather. According to the US Federal Trade Commission ruling, the use of Press Over System — A system of working circular term ‘Plastic patent leather’ is incorrect. pits in a series which ensures a uniformly gradual decrease in the strength of liquors in the pits of the Plasticizer —A material added to a solution or mixture battery. The strong liquor from the leach vat or the for the purpose of softening (or rendering plastic) the extract vat is pumped into the head circulator. This film obtained on drying the mixture. Cellulose lacquer causes a successive movement of liquors from one pit solutions invariably dry to form harsh or brittle films to the next one, pushing the comparatively stronger on leather but if mixed with a plasticizer, the film liquor of any one pit into the weaker liquor of the next becomes pliable and non-cracky. Plasticizers have pit. The weakest liquor then flows out from the tail generally high boiling points and hence they remain circular pit into the drain. in the film, ensuring plasticity. These are generally high boiling liquids like tricresyl phosphate, diamyl tartrate, Pre-tanning — Preliminary tanning carried out prior ethyl citrate and others. Sulphated oils can be used as to main tanning with the intension of avoiding case- plasticizers in aqueous leather finishes. hardening and for acceleration of tanning,

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Procter Extractor — An apparatus employed for the transferring vegetable tan liquors from one vat to preparation of extracts of the solid tanning materials. another.

Primes — The best selections, Purabs — A term used at Kanpur for all hides coming from the Eastern districts of UP. Printed Leather — Leather bearing a surface pattern produced usually by embossing, but sometimes by Pure Dressed — Curried leather, without adulterants other methods. to give extra weight, leather that has been dressed by hand with dubbin. I Pritch Pole — Pole used to hold the carcass of an animal upright during flaying. Purity of Tan Material — Parts of tannin per hundred parts of water soluble solid matter in a mixture Proctor’s Basicity — The amount of sulphate in grams containing vegetable tanning materials. Also parts of associated with 52 grams (1 gram-atom) of chromium tannin per 100 parts of water. in a chromic salt used for tanning. Purneas —A variety of cowhides from Eastern Bihar. Prod Marks — Marks caused by a pointed instrument They have excellent substance, and are spready, plump, like a goad or an awl. clean, not fleshy and uncrumpled, though at times with Proteases — Enzymes which act on proteins, a shrivclled appearance and often badly scratched and inclined to be dark in colour. They are mostly Protected Leather — Leather into which certain procurable as air-dried but occasionally as dry-salted special chemicals have been incorporated to render it also. None of these belongs to the class of slaughtered less liable to deterioration on exposure to air or light, hides although most of them are obtained from village The treatment is often applied to vegetable tanned slaughtered animals. upholstery and bookbinding leather. Putting Out Machine — See ‘Striking Out’. Puer — Infusion of dog dung used for bating. Pyrogallol Tannins — Name applied to a class of Puering — Treating the fleshed limed pelts or grains tannins which produce blue black coloration with with a warm infusion of dog dung for 1.5 to 5 hours ferric salt and deposit an insoluble substance known according to the type of pelt in order to remove traces as bloom on the leather and also produce acid by 4 ofepithelial tissue, short hair, lime soaps and cementing fermentation in the tan liquor which influences tanning. substance, loosen the scud, deplete the pelts, complete Pyroxylin — Nitro-cellulose (1 1-12,5 percent the deliming and increase the stretch and pliability of Nitrogen) used for making lacquers; shipped always the finished leather. with about 30 percent by weight of alcohol to prevent Pulled Skins — Skins from which wool after being explosion. loosened in fellmongering, has been removed by d Q painting or sweating. Quebracho — The trees exploited for tanning under Pulling Over — A term applied to the removal of the the name of quebracho and of commercial importance wool, loosened in fellmongcring, by painting or are: sweating. The wool is actually pushed off by hand and sorted as it is removed. a) Schinopsis balansae Engl., fare. Anarcardiaceae, and Pulling Over Machine — A machine to pull off the b) Schinopsis lorentzii Engl. wool from sheepskins. They are closely related trees, their heartwood being Pullmen and Payne Process — A process of rich in tannins; S. balansae containing 20 to 25 percent formaldehyde tannage in an alkaline bath for the and S. lorentzii an average of 16 to 17 percent of tannin. manufacture of white leather. Quebracho Wood Extract —The solid extract is dark pulp — Wood pulp. brownish-black and contains 62 to 63 percent tannins Pumicing — Removal of long fibres and smoothcning and 7 to 8 percent of non-tannins. As a tanning material, the leather surface by rubbing with pumice stone. The it belongs to the catechol class. There are two forms of leather is coated with a suitably boiled linseed oil the extract, the ordinary or untreated extract, not very preparation. soluble in cold water and the sulphited or cold water soluble extract. There is also the powdered extract with Pump or Engine Leather — Leather derived from a higher tannin content of 83 to 84 percent. The cattle hides, vegetable tanned and rolled hard. sulphated extract is prepared by heating the crude Pump Log — A heavy wooden conduit used for extract under pressure for several hours with 8 to 10

41 IS 1640:2007 percent of sodium bisulphate. Warm crude qucbracho Randall and Stickney Gauge — Trade name for a liquors arc used in the filling of heavy leather in the precision gauge for measuring the thickness of leather final stages of manufacture in order to produce accurately to 0.025 mm. tlrmness, solidity and wear. Sulphated quebracho Range, Butt or Bend — In respect of sole leather, a liquors can be used in the early stages of tannage to butt or bend range is a strip of sole leather of convenient penetrate the pelt or other materials to speed up their width cut from a butt or bend at right angles to the penetration. Used alone they yield a soft, light weighing back bone. In respect of other hide leathers, a butt range pinkish leather. is a strip of hide leather of convenient width cut from Quercitannic Acid — Tannic acid from the bark of the fore end of a butt usually after but sometimes before Quercus coccinea Muenchh. fare. Fagaccae used in tannagc. tanning and dyeing. Rapid Tanning — Tanning made quicker than by the Quercitron Bark — Derived from two Central usual methods; in respect of Vegetable tanning, Vacuum American oak trees. Quercus velutina Lam. syn. Process, Pressure Tanning, Bag Tanning, Pre-Tanning Quercus tinctoria Bartr. and Q. nigra Linn, fare. prior to regular vegetable tanning, Drum Tanning and Fagaceae, yield two yellow dyestuffs on infusion. Onc Colloidal Tanning are the available methods for the of the pigments is quercetin (C ,~H ,OOT,HZO) which is purpose. In respect of chrome tanning, Pickleless/ an isomer of morin. A concentrated product is sold m Masked Tannage, Dry/Powder Tanning and Injection an extract which ia often used in leather dyeing in USA. Tannage procedures are resorted to. Quercitron bark extract is often used in conduction with Raw Hide — See ‘Raw Hide for Mechanical use’. hacmatin in order to provide a more jet black colour Raw Hide for Mechanical Use — Cattle hide that has (see also ‘Bark, Quercitron’). been dehaired and limed, often stuffed with oil and Quinone — Para-benzoquinone, a yellow compound grease, and has sometimes undergone other preparatory which is fixed by hide substance from solutions, at processes but has not been tanned. Raw hide is used about pH 8 and yields a leather of high shrinkage principally for mechanical purposes for belt lacings temperature and water resistance. Low yields and the and pins, loom pickers, gaskets, pinions and gears. high cost of its synthetic production have prevented Some raw hide is dressed with hair left on. its commercial exploitation. Raw Hide Belting Leather — Semi-tanned cattle hide Qurbani Hides and Skins — Hides and skins from leather suitable for manufacture of high speed machine animals slaughtered during the Muslim festival of ‘Bakr belting. id’. Raw Hide Lace — Buffalo hide, limed, dehaired, dried R out and lightly oiled.

R — Abbreviation for ‘Rejections’ and ‘Real’, for Raw Hide for Luggage — Translucent material made example: from the grain side of cattle hides freed from hair and the flesh layer, and dried out in the limed state usually DRD — Dacca Rejections Doubles, and without any tanning process being applied. The RMS — Real Mchcrpores Slaughtcreds. surfaces of luggage made from it, are usually varnished to give protection from moisture. Radiation Curing — Insolubilizing finish films (formed of aqueous dispersions) using radiation, either Reactive Dyes — Dyes, which can react with the UV or Electron beam. The insolubilization is effected groups of the substrate (for example, Triazinyl dyes). by cross-linking brought about by free radicals induced Real Meherpore Cure Hides — Hides cured by the by radiation. The cross-linking chemicals to be application of a very light coating of khat-i salt without incorporated for the purpose are: Formaldehyde, any intention of increasing weight. aziridine epoxides and carbo-di-imides. Though cross- linking PU finishes only have been achieved Red Heat — Coloration usually red, which appears satisfactorily, it is likely to be extended to acrylics also on the flesh side of salted raw hides and skins. The in the near future. The importance of radiation curing stains do not generally damage the hide or skin. The arises from the fact that all finishes are required to be organisms responsible for red heat are not found on all-water-soluble systems to avoid air pollution from the raw hides or skins but are introduced through the the use of solvent-based lacquers. use of certain marine salts. Two, types of bacteria have been isolated; a redsarcina and a yellow one, belonging Ramgodia — See ‘Lizard Skins’. to the sub-genus of the genus sarcina fare. Ranchies –- Poorest class of air-dried light hides Micrococceae. Red sarcina is non-proteolytic but the obtainable from Central India. yellow one is proteolytic and can liquefy gelatin.

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Reds — Phlobaphenes, that is, red or brown colouring c) Condition the stock for the required degree matter from barks. of softness.

Reducing Agent — In tanning, the name is applied to 1Reliming can be accelerated by sharpening the lime sugar, molasses, hype, sulphur dioxide, etc, which arc liquor b; the addition of an alkali like caus~ic soda. used to reduce hexavalent chromium into trivalent Rendering — Separating fats from protein connective chromium for making chrome liquor for chromium tissue and other water insoluble substances by treating tanning. small pieces of animal matter with hot water or steam. Reducing Bath — The bath usually made up of sodium Reptile Skins — Skins of the class of animals thiosulphate (hype), glucose or other organic comprising snakes, lizards, turtles, crocodiles, etc. carbohydrates in which pelts treated with chromic acid are handled so that the hexavalcnt chromium is reduced Resilience of Leather — It is measured by percentage to the trivalent chromium. rebound of a standard plunger dropped onto the leather Redunca Extract — ‘Rcdunca’, ‘Wandoo’ or ‘myrtan’ surface under standard conditions. is a solid extract, obtained from the wandoo tree, Resin Dispersion — Aqueous dispersions of Eucalyptus wandoo Blakely syn. E. redunca var. elata methacrylate and other acrylate resins have a milky Benth,, fttm, Myrtaceae of Western Australia, Both the appearance and acid reaction and can be diluted with bark and wood are used as commercial sources of water or mixed with aqueous dispersions of casein, tannin which consist mainly of the pyrogallol class with pigment finishes, binders, etc. Commercial dispersions a small proportion ofcatechol materials. The tannin in contain from 30 to 40 percent of a highly polymerized the bark may vary from 13 to 21 percent and for the acrylate resin. As the resin is thermoplastic, the finishes wood from 8 to 13 percent. A solid extract (myrtan) when dry on the leather cannot be glazed by the glazing produces a pale coloured solid firm leather. machine or ironed by hot iron and they are usually hot Red Woods — These dye woods are divided into 2 plated by a leather press. These resin dispersions were classes: first used as an undercoat for nitrocellulosc finishes in the manufacture of upholstery leather to prevent the a) Soiuble — which comprise brazil, pcmamhuco migration of the plasticizer from the nitrocellulose tilm or femambuco wood, peach wood, lime wood, into the leather and thus making the nitrocellulosc film sappan wood, bimas red wood and nicaragua brittle. It has also been used along with aqueous wood. All of them contain the colouring pigment dispersions for application to well snuffed or principle, brazilin, (C,,H,,O,) which by corrected leather grains and also in mixtures with water oxidation is converted into brazilein, pigment dispersions, which are then applied to leather, (C,,H,,O,) giving purple shades with chrome dried, and rendered fast to wet rubbing by the mordants and crimson with alum. application of a colorless, nitrocellulosc lacquer top b) Insoluble — comprising cain wood or cambc coat. wood, bar woo~, saunders wood, sandal wood, .bresille wood and caliator wood. The Resin Finished — Leather with a pigment finish, dyeing principle is santaline. These woods incorporating a synthetic resin binder. have a limited application for dyeing wool Resin Tannage — Filling the hide/skin with synthetic with aluminium, chrome, tin, or iron resins like urea-formaldehyde, melamine- mordants. formaldchyde etc. Rein Back — Harness or bridle leather in the form of Restricted Countries — Countries from which a back, usually of good selection, curried and having a imports of hides and skins are permitted only under close shaved flesh. their sanitary regulations. Rein Leather — Leather for the strap of a bridle. Retanned Leather — Same as ‘Combination Tanned’. Rejects — Badly cut, branded, worm damaged, and Reticular Tissue — This tissue holds the collagen marked hides, having more faults than deads. The term fibrcs in bundles and consists of very tine filaments usually refers to those that have been discarded. running in all directions and forming a network (see Reliming — Putting the stock after unhairing into fresh also ‘Arcolar Tissue’). lime liquors in order to: Reversed Calf — Calf leather of heavier weights a) Plump them for easy fleshing, finished on the flesh side with oils to make it more b) Open up the substrate for quick penetration water resistant than suede. It is used for shoes where a of reagents in subsequent processes, and nappy sport leather is required. Originally called

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‘Trench Calf’ in England; the term ‘Hunting Calf’ is Rolling — Subjecting heavy leather to the action of a also used. The term ‘Service Leather’ is used but is smooth brass or gun metal solid cylinder which moves generally applied to splits and side leather. on the grain surface of the leather under considerable pressure. The action makes the surface smooth and Reverse Setting — Setting in opposite directions. stiffens the feel. Light leathers are also rolled with a Ringworm Damage –- Circular scars in calfskins little pressure with the object of smoothening the grain caused by a fungal skin disease. surface but not stiffening the feel.

Ripping Knife — Knife designed for easy opening of Rolling Machine — Machine used for compressing a hide or skin before flaying, similar to the flaying leather by means of a heavy roller. knife but having a straightened cutting edge, also useful Rolling-Off — The operation of the final rolling of for slaughtering, bleeding, cvisccrating, etc. sole leather under heavy pressure, when the latter has Rising Solution –- The solution used in the first bath been completely dried out. of the two-bath process of pickling, consisting of Rolling-On — The operation of rolling sole leather sulphuric acid and some salts, which produce a when the latter is in an evenly damp condition. swelling of the pelt and which gives the bath its name. This is followed by a ‘falling bath’ consisting of a Root of the Tail — The point where the tail is joined saturated salt solution in which the swelling falls or in to the body. other words the pelt is dcplctcd. Rosin Colophony — Sticky light yellow to red brown Roan — Sumac tanned sheepskin ofmcdium size, used product obtained by distilling off the more volatile for a variety of purposes and tinishcd to suit particular turpentine from the oleoresin of the pine trees, Pinus mquircmcnts. Skins which are loose or pipcy on the spp. to produce waterproofness and tackiness in leather grain arc usua]ly clmbosscd. Finishes known as ‘J]ard as in golf grip leather. grains’, ‘straight grains’, etc, are produced by Roter — A lattice drum half immersed in a pit of tan embossing and subsequent boarding. Tight grained liquor. Nowadays, this is used instead of handlers and roans arc often finished without embossing. contains butts from the suspender liquor. Tannage Rocker — A device for moving leathers hung in a proceeds much more quickly in them than in the old frame, up and down, so as to prevent kiss spots. handler pits.

Rolled Bellies — Compressed bellies. Rough Rounding Tanned — Crust tanned, half tanned. Rolled Leathers — Compressed leathers. Rough Tanned Leather — See ‘Crusts’ (’Crust Rolled Sides — Compressed sides. Leather’). Rolled Splits — Thick splits rolled into stiff leather Rounding — The operation of cutting off the offal, for making insoles. that is, the bellies and the shoulder, from the substantial portion of a hide, namely, the butt. It is usually done Roller Basil — Leather with a smooth finish, a after the hides have been unhaired by liming. Only the specially fine grain and a compact firm structure hides meant for the manufacture of heavy leathers like commonly natural coloured but sometimes dyed red, sole, belting or picking bands are rounded. The butts made from hill sheep, vegetable tanned and designed arc given a superior tannage and the offals go through to bc suitable for covering the drawing rollers of cotton a cheaper tanning process. spinning machinery and for other purposes, such as book binding for account books. Rounding Machine — Machine for cutting the offal from the butt. Roller Coater — The same as those used in printing industry, both direct and offset; adopted by leather Round Spots — Rings of a thickness of 2 to 3 mm industry in 1960’s; useful for simple application of and an outside diameter of 1 cm, appearing after finishes, tipping of embossed leathers and printing removal of the hair. fashion designs. The first area in which roller coater Rub Fastness — The fastness of finish to rubbing, both was used was in split Icather finishing. dry and wet, The leather is rubbed with a felt pad either Roller Leather — Leather made from sheepskins dry or wet attached to a fastness tester. The rubbed tanned by vegetable process and finished so as to have surface of the leather is compared with spots of five a smooth and plain grain and even substance. This different degrees of greyness constituting a Grey scale, leather is much used for rollers of cotton spinning marked 1 to 5, in the increasing order of rub fastness. machinery. Agreement with spot 1, for example, indicates poor

50 IS 1640:2007 rub-fastness. Similarly agreement with 5 means s excellent rub fastness. S — Abbreviation for ‘Slaughtered’for example, Rub-Off Finish — Two-tone appearance made by AS-Agra Slaughtered. partial removal of the top colour so that the bottom Saddening - Producing a dull shade in the dye bath colour shows up. To achieve this first the leather is by adding special substances. finished in one colour and fixed with a lacquer coat. Then a second colour coat is applied, dried and wiped Saddening Agent — A substance, the addition of out partially when dry. The second coat is subsequently which to the dyeing produces a duller shade of colour. fixed with a topcoat. Saddle Leather — Leather used for making saddles Run — The stretch of a leather; for gloving leathers, usually made from vegetable tanned cattle hide. this is very important. Saffian Leather — Soft goatskin leather similar to Run Pelts — Sheepskins dewoolled by sweating whose Morocco leather. grain surfaces have been pitted or liquefied in spots by S41A’ — The common name ( Hindi or Punjabi ) worm-like organisms. applied to genus of trees Terminalia tomentosa Arn Russet — Vegetable tanned leather used for making fare. Combractaceae, whose bark containing 5 to 13 military boots dressed in its natural colour and finished percent tannin and fruits are sometimes used for on the flesh side (see ‘Ammunition Leather’ and ‘Army tanning. More common name is Saj or Awa. Grain’). Saladero Hides — Argentine hides corresponding to the largest of the small packer hides produced in the Russet Calf –- Vegetable tanned calf leather with a USA. russet finish. Sal Bark –– Bark of the trees Shores wbu.sta Gaertn. Russet Harness --- Completely finished leather of and Shores siamensis Miq. fare. Dipterocarpaceae; bright, c]can, uniform colour and finish. found in India and Siam. Contains about 10 percent Russet Lining — Vegetable tanned leather having a tannin and used locally in tanning. russet colour made from sheep, goat or calf. Salem Myrobalan — Myrobalan nuts produced Russet Sheepskin — Leather tanned in cold leached around the district of Salem in Tamil Nadu State yield hemlock bark extracted, used for shoe linings with a paler coloured tannage than any others and are colour resulting from the hemlock. reserved exclusively for the E.I. kips and skin tanners of South India (see also ‘Myrobalan’). Russet Upper Leather –– Vegetable tanned cow hides with russet finish. Salometer — An instrument for measuring the weight of a salt solution per unit volume. Russia Calf — Smooth finished dyed calf leather Salt, Khari — See ‘Khari Salt’. scented with birch tar oil, vegetable tanned and made in imitation of the old fashioned genuine ‘Russia calf’ Salt Spots — Small cavities, white or light brown in which was a calf leather tanned with the bark of willow, colour, heavily encrusted in the hide, and which can poplar and larch, curried on the flesh side with a only be eliminated with difficulty when the skin is mixture containing birch tar oil giving it a characteristic scraped. odour. lt was generally dyed red. Salt Stains — Stains not apparent immediately after Russia Leather —Vegetable tanned shoe upper leather the process of salting but often appear after the tanning made from calfskin or ‘light cattle hide perfumed with of salted hides. birch oil, giving it the so called Russia calf smell, The name originated from leather tanned with birch and Sambalpurs — A somewhat poor class of air-dried willow barks in Russia; the former producing the light hides obtainable from Central India. characteristic smell. In India vegetable tanned cow Samming — Drying leather partially to a stage that it hides dyed into brown colours are often called exudes moisture at a crease when folded or squeezed. ‘Russian’ or ‘Russiah’. In USA, the term is used to Samming Machine — A machine for drying leather to describe a fancy stock generally made from calfskin the sannned condition. Also called’ Wringing Machine’. and to some extent from light cattle hide. Sam, Sammie, Sammy — To condition leather with Russia Oil — See ‘Oil, Birch’. water for securing a uniform water content of about 30 Russiah — See ‘Russia Leather’. to 40 percent by weight; to dampen leather in saw dust.

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Santiniketan Leathers — Vegetable tanned leathers Scudding Beam — A convex platform made of wood hand-worked and dyed with lac dye; made around covered on top with zinc sheet or split and hollowed Calcutta. trunk of a palm tree set at an angle of about 45° over which the hide or skin is worked with blunt scudding Sappan Wood —- The wood is obtained from knife. Caesalpinia sappan Linn. farm Leguminosae. It is used to some extent in leather dyeing. Scudding Knife — A blunt curved knife used for scudding. Satin Calf or Leather — Leather finished on the gain side. After stuffing with grease, the grain is slightly Scuff Resistance — Resistance to abrasion by a rough buffed or snuffed. Tbc leather is then finished with surface. Assessment is made by comparing a scuffed suitable materials so as to get a silky feel. The leather is finished leather surface with a grey scale. gcncmlly made from hide and calfskins or the grain of Sealskiu — Skin from the seal, an amphibious which is more or less damaged. It is used for shoe uppers. carnivorous mammal. Satin Finish — A dull or matt finish on leather as Season --- An aqueous dispersion of binder with other distinguished from ‘Glazed Finish’. ingredients like plasticizer, dye and/or pigment etc to Scabby — Atflicted with scab or mange. be coated onto a leather surface for finishing purposes.

Scalding -– Loosening hairs by placing a skin in hot Seasoning -—Application of finish season. wter; used in the past to remove bristles from pig skim. Season Hides — The expression is usually applied to Schorlemmer’s Basicity — See Percentage Basicity; winter hides. known as Lehigh Basicity also. Sebaceous Glands — The glands producing oily Scored Hides -– Hides damaged during flaying by matter, scbum, located in the cuts that do not completely penetrate them. grain layer of the skin and connected to the hair follicle Scores — Long cuts on the flesh side due to careless by a duct. Also called fat glands. The fatty substance flaying. secreted is however not a triglyceride but a wax.

Scotch Grain —A pebbled pattern embossed LIsually Sebum — The fatty material of the sebaceous glands on cattle hide or calf leather and made to resemble the of’ the skin, which is a wax. heavy coarse grain leather which originated in Scotland. Seconds — Another name for ‘Deads’.

Scouring — Removing 100SC tan and blooms on the Selection Straight — Selection on the basis of grain and flesh sides of leather. This is done either by properties of leather which are recognized by trade to hand Iabour using stiff brush and stone tools or by denote its proper grade. machines. A machine fitted with stones or a drum type Self-basifying Chrome — Chrome extract containing machine is now used for the purpose. About 11 percent difficultly soluble basic substances like MgO/CaCO~ material is lost when sole leather is scoured. and hence its gasification increases while penetration Scouring Machine — A machine which cleans by proceeds. rubbing. Self-plasticized — Film-forming agent having itself Scratch Resistance — Resistance of a finish to direct the required degree of flexibility. This is achieved by scratching with a sharp instrument expressed as suitable tailoring of the polymer either by suitable kilograms/mm square of the width of the scratch. choice of monomers or through grafting.

Screen Printing — Colouring the leather surface Semi-alum Leather — Leather that has been tanned through a screen, which has a stenciled design and first with vegetable tannins and then with aluminium fixing the colour. For every colour, a separate screen salts. is necessary. Semi-aniline Finish —A finish similar to aniline finish Scud — A slimy material containing the natural dirt in which some amount of pigments, both organic and of hides and skins; remnants of epithelial tissue, hair inorganic, may be usc?d. pigment, lime soap, etc, left in the grain layer. Semi-aniline Finished — Leather, which has been Scudding — Removing the scud from unhaired hides aniline, dyed or stained, incorporating a small quantity and skins by the scraping action of a knife or blade by of pigment, not so much as to conceal the natural grain hand or by machine. of the hide.

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Semi-chrome — Leather tanned first with vegetable Shearing Cuts — Cuts made on sheepskin while tannin and then with chrome salts. shearing the wool of live sheep.

Sequestering Agents — Compounds which are Shearings — Tanned and dressed sheepskins bearing capable of forming complexes with metals and are short wool, made from pelts of sheep sheared before useful for the prevention of undesirable effects due to slaughter. metals. Thus leathers which have been treated with Sheen — Lustre/Glitter/Sparkle. Sharper reflection of certain meta-phosphates are immune against the a surface at an angle far greater than the angle of catalytic effects of iron compounds. specular reflection. Sesame Oil —A semi-drying oil obtained by pressing Sheepskins — Unsplit sheepskin leather, not skivers. the seeds of Sesamum indicum Linn., fare. Pedaliaceae. Shell — In horse hide, the part covering the rumps is Setting Out — A process used in leather manufacture known as the shell area. It has a denser and tighter for stretching out the leather. It removes growth and fibre structure than the rest of the butt. fold marks as well as any coarseness of the grain thereby making the leather surface perfectly flat or Short Weight — Under weight.

smooth. Setting is usually done on properly samrned Shoulder — The part of the hide between the leather either by hand or by machine, the set leather foreshanks and the head. being then hung up for drying. Shrinkage Temperature — The temperature of water Shading Agent — Any dye which is used after first at which a strip of leather placed in it begins to shrink, dyeing to bring the shade to the required tone. which is different for each kind and degree of tannage. Shagrccn — Epidermis of sharkskin. Generally abbreviated as ‘Ts’.

Shake Method — An official method of tannin Side — One half of the hide cut along the backbone. analysis. Upper Leather, Chrome —A side of a chrome tanned Shake Tare — Weight taken after shaking the hides leather used for shoe uppers. free from loose salts. Siding or Corduroying — Poor flaying shows up on Shaking — Sweeping and beating wet-salted hides the skin by a series of shallow and generally parallel against a piece of stone or stump of wood to free them streaks. from the loose salt before weighing. Sig Water — An alkaline solution of soda ash, borax Shanks — That portion of the hide which covers the or ammonia used to wash the grain surface of leather leg of an animal. preparatory to applying dye solutions by hand or by machine; formerly solution of stale urine. Sharkskin — Genuine sharkskin leather is made from the top grain of skins of certain species of sharks and Silica Tanning — Tanning using dispersions made from water glass (i.e. Sodium silicate); a filler tannage; is used principally in shoes, belts, wrist-watch straps, usually done in combination with either chrome or luggage, fine leather goods and for industrial purposes. zirconium tannage. It has varying natural grain markings of tine, smooth, mesh-like grain similar to pin seal. The term is wrongly Silicones — Polymers of dialkyl silane diols; used as applied to other leathers, such as horse butts embossed slip agent or to impart smooth feel and some degree of with a shark grain. water-proofness.

Sharpening Agent —A material added to a lime liquor Silver Kid — Kid or goatskin leather with a bright to accelerate the loosening of the hair of hides and skins silvery appearance on, the grain side produced by immersed in it. coating with aluminium leaf.

Sharp Tan Liquor — An astringent liquor. Silver Wattle — A tree, native of Australia (silver or blue watt]) Acacia dealbata now regarded as a variety Shaved, Weight — The weight of a pack of leather of A. decurrens grown in India, is inferior to those of taken after shaving. This is an important weight for black wattle in tanning. The bark contains about 11 to calculating the quantity of different materials required 15 percent tannins (see Bark Wattle, Bark Mimosa). for dyeing and fat liquoring in the manufacture of chrome leather. Simulated Grain — Artificial grain.

Shavings — Bits of leather which are scraped off Skin — (a) A general term for the outer covering of an during the shaving operation. animal, (b) In the strict sense, the outer covering of

53 IS 1640:2007 animals of smaller kinds, for example, sheep and goats; of the grain has been removed more or less lightly by or of the immature animals of the larger species, for emery wheel. Also known as ‘corrected grain’. example, calves and colts. See Hide. In most countries Snuffing — The process of lightly buff%sg the grain of pigs, reptiles, birds and fish are included under’ Skins’ leather usually done by the bufhg machine (see also but in Germany they are included under ‘Hides’. ‘Buffing’). Skirting Leather — A term for a specialized vegetable Soak Fleshing — Fleshing hides during the tanned cattle hide leather used for skirts or hanging preliminary soaking operation as distinct from fleshing portions of saddles that come between the legs of a after liming. rider and the horse. Soaking — A pre-tanning process in which hides and Skivcr — The grain split of sheepskin, split before skins, with the hair still on, are immersed in a pit called tanning. Skivers are used wherever a thin leather is soak pit containing soak liquor with the object of required as in making sweat bands for hats, for lining removing surface dirt, curing materials and other leather cases, bags, etc, for bookbinding and impurities, etc. In the case of dried hides, the object of manufacture of fancy leather goods. Skivers are also soaking is also to soften the stock to its original sometimes obtained from goatskins by splitting thcm. pliability. Slack Tanned — Having an insufficient degree of Soaking Agents — Chemicals used for making the tannage to produce the desired characteristics in leather. dry hides absorb moisture from soak liquor and hasten Slating — Scudding, their softening. They are also known as wetting agents.

Slate, Knife — A knife made of a slate and used for Soak Liquor — Liquor used for soaking hides and scudding. skins usually with some softening agent, with or without a preservative. Slating Stone — Scudding beam. Soak Pit — Pits in which hides and skins are soaked. Slate — Sheepskins dried for export after dewoolling and called ‘Papi-as’ in India. Soak Lining — The piece of leather lining which is Slaughtered, Hallali — Average first class hides put on the insole inside the shoe. without defects or blemishes. Air-dried slaughtered Sodium Hydrosulphide — A sharpening agent used should have not more than two warble lumps. The term in liming; it is just as effective, but less caustic in its does not necessarily imply that the animals were killed action than sodium sulphide solution. in slaughter houses. Sodium Sulphydrate — Same as sodium Slicker — A metal blade set in a wooden holder for hydrosulphide. setting out leather by hand. Sodium Trichlorophenate — A water soluble liquid Slickhg — The operation of stretching out the leather preservative. It gives excellent results against moulds, by a slicker. This is done for removing part of the fungi and bacteria. moisture, crease marks or wrinkles. Sod Oil — In England, the type of fish oil used for Slink Lamb — Tanned and dressed sheepskin bearing chamoising does not remain after oxidation, in a fine curly wool made from the pelt of a still-born or sufficiently liquid condition to be pressed out, as in young lamb. the case of moellon degras used on the continent of Slip Agent — Agent incorporated into a finish to free Europe. In England, the chamois leather, after the the embossing plate from the finish on removing the oxidation of the fish oil, is washed with washing soda compressive force. or sodium carbonate whereby the oxidized fish oil is removed from the chamois leather partly in an Slunks — Skins of still-born calves weighing 2 kg or emulsified form and partly in the form of soap. The less in the green condition and 1 kg and less in the dry alkaline wash water is then treated with sulphuric acid condition. when the fish oil is separated from the soap and from Small Packer Hide — Hide of an animal slaughtered the emulsion. This separated oxidized fish oil is known in one of the smaller meat packing establishments in as sod oil and has properties of moellon degras and is USA with fewer facilities for specialization than those used for similar purposes (see also ‘Moellon Degras’). with the bigger packers, Soft Stock — Another name in the American market Smoked Hides — See ‘Fire Dried Hides’ for the wet-salted goatskins. Snuffed Finish — Leather of which the outer surface Sole Leather — Leather used for soles of boots and 54 IS 1640:2007 shoes. Sole leather is generally made from thick hides, Spew — White crystalline or gummy deposit appearing such as those of buffalo or ox. Generally, sole leather on grain surface of finished leather on ageing. It may is vegetable tanned; chrome tanned sole leather has be caused by the crystallization of salts in leather or very limited use. by the appearance on the leather surface of fatty acids present in the leather. Even if spew is removed by Solid Leather — Designates an article the body of wiping the leather, it reappears continuously. Its which is made of leather. If the term ‘solid’ is prefixed presence in finished leather is a great defect. to the name of the particular skin, for example, solid pigskin, it indicates that the article is made essentially Spew Fatty — Spew caused by excessive fat. of a single thickness of leather of the kind specified. Split — The under layer of a hide or skin or part of a Solubilized Extracts — Several tanning materials, hide or skin separated by splitting. If the name of the such as quebracho, hemlock, etc, contain large animal whence it originates, or the word ‘hide’ or ‘skin’ quantities of sparingly soluble tannins, which can be or the part of the animal whence it comes is included rendered soluble by treatment with alkali sulphites or in the description, then the word ‘split’ must be used bisulphites. Extracts thus prepared are called as a noun, for example, pig split, hide split, butt split solubilized extracts. and not as an adjective, for example, split pigskin.

Solvent Dyeing — Dyeing in an organic solvent Split Finishing — Finishing the flesh splits. Involves nmdiutn. The tncthod is useful for water insoluble dyes. scaling the split surface either with a soft polymer The colour of the dyed leather is fast to washing. which can get into the pores of the split leather and can have good anchorage and then finishing the surface Solvent Fatliquoring — Fatliquoring with an emulsion with resin binder, etc., or by laminating the split leather of water in oil dissolved in a solvent like kerosene. with a thick PU foil. The importance of split finishing Solvent Resistance — Resistance to organic solvent lies in the worldwide shortage of hides and skins. extraction; very much desirable in respect of garment Splitting — Dividing or cutting leather, hides and skins leathers as they are subjected frequently to dry cleaning. into thin pieces along a horizontal plane, Cutting a hide Sonagaddi — See ‘Lizardskins’. vertically with a knife into sides, bends, bellies, etc, is also called splitting. Sonali Bark, Amaltas — Bark of Cassia~stula Linn., fare. Leguminosae, used as a tanstuffi contains 12 to Split Hides — The outer or grain layer of a hide from 18 percent of tannin. In Tamil Nadu, it is sometimes which the under or flesh side has been split to give it a blended with avaram for the production of E.I. tanned reasonably uniform thickness. leather. Alone it produces a soft leather, but of a colour which is slightly darker and redder than avaram Split Skins — Skins which have been split into two tannage. It is largely used for tanning Iizardskins for parallels with the grain or flesh surface. The term is export, alone or sometimes blended with babul or used to describe the portion of a hide or skin split into avaram bark and myrobalans. Supplies usually come two or more thicknesses other than the grain or hair from Madhya Pradesh, Bengal and Orissa. In Tamil side. Nadu, it is also known as konnam (konnan). Splitting Horse — A wooden frame for supporting a Sour Bark — Bark which is fermented and has hide while cutting it into two sides. produced acids. Splitting Machine — A machine equipped with a Sour Dip — An acid solution containing epsom salt gripping cylinder and band knife for splitting hides or and fermenting com sugar into which dry sole leather skins or leathers horizontally into splits or for levelling is dipped to improve its colour and feel. the thickness of leather.

Sour Liquor — Liquor in which acids have been Sponging — Washing the grain surface of the sole produced by fermentation. leather with an emulsion of kerosene oil and waxes preparatory to rolling. Spanish Grain — Finish produced by embossing on fancy, or upholstery leather a modified natural grain Spot Hides — Hides sold for cash in the normal course which was formerly produced by drawing or striking of business. a hide or a skin in a strong tan liquor to shrink the Spray Drying — Drying substances in solution by grain resulting in a curious pattern on the surface owing spraying in a current of hot air which evaporates the to unequal shrinking of different portions. water and leaves the solid in the form of a fine powder. Spent Bark — Bark from which tannins have been Special spray drying apparatus is nowadays extracted or leached out. manufactured and considerably used in the 55 IS 1640:2007 manufacture of spray dried tanning extracts in powder Stirrup Butt — Strong flexible leather usually 4 to form. 5.5 mm thick, as level in thickness as possible and with a close shaved flesh, made from ox hides rounded into Spray Dyeing — The process of dyeing leather by butts approximately 1to 5 m long and used as a strap spraying the dye solution through a spraying apparatus for holding stirrups. with the help of compressed air. Stitch-Tear Resistance — The load required to tear Spreading — The tendency for an oil to creep over the leather between two holes, a given distance apart the entire surface of water on which it is placed; this is and is expressed as so many kgs/cm thickness of the important in stuffing and in oiling off leather. leather.

Spready Hide — A hide with a large area in relation Stock Liquor — Strong tan liquor used to strengthen to its weight. liquors weakened by tanning stock in them.

Spruce Extract — Trade name for a commercial Stoning — Smoothening down leather with a stone tanning extract made by acidifying and purifying slicker or “stoning jack’ principally for removing sulphite liquors from paper mills. growth marks and coarse grain from sammed leather.

Spue — Same as ‘Spew’. Straining -– Stretching of wet leather or skin upon boards or frames and fixing in that stretched condition Stage Hide — The hide of a male of the ox kind that by toggles, nails or pegs preparatory to drying out. was castrated later in life than the steer, often when a year old. The longer the castration is delayed, the more Strain Marks — See ‘Marks, Strain’. the hide becomes like a bull’s. It has no recognized Strap Leather — Heavy leather and leather of medium designation in the hide market, but is classed as steer thickness, curried to required pliability, from which or bull whichever it resembles more closely, causing leather straps for various purposes are cut. frequent difficulties in classification. Stratum Corneum — The uppermost layer of the Staining — The process of dyeing and colouring epidermis made up of dried hardened and flattened cells leather by applying the dye solution on it with a brush. which is shed as scurf. This method is adopted usually in colouring heavy or spready hides when it is desired to keep the flesh side Stratum Granulosum — The third layer of the clean and undyed. epidermis from the surface and containing kerato- hyaline granules. Staking — Fleiing leather to separate fibres sticking together and thus to make it softer. Stratum Lucidum — The layer of the epidermis in between stratum corneum and stratum granulosum. Staking Powder — A powder used on leather before it is staked, so that friction is reduced. Generally, French Stratum Rete Mucosum or Stratum Germinativum chalk is used for the purpose. — The lowest layer of epidermis containing germinating cells, It is in immediate contact with Staling — The process of sweating sheep and derma, and constitutes the chief and most important lambskins for dewoolling. layer of the epidermis. The cells of this layer are at all Steel Drops — Alcoholic solution of ferric chloride times reproducing new cells. used for staining haematin treated leathers to black, Stretched Bamboo Hides — See ‘Firrnas’. especially black Morocco goats. Iron salts render the grain of the leather hard or harsh. Stretched Pattern — Pattern obtained after stretching the hides and skins on frames or boards. Steer Hide — Leather made from the hides of steers, Stretch of Leather — The percentage increase in usually a heavy Leather for soles or belting, although length of a strip of leather upon the application of a the term is sometimes used to cover any cattle hide given pull per unit area of cross section of the strip. leather especially in the fancy leather goods trade. The term has been used also to designate an embossed grain Striker — Fixing agent for mordants generally used with a two-tone finish used for personal leather goods. where dyeing is to be done with basic dyestuffs. Common among strikers are tartar emetic, titanium Sticking Piece — The dewlap or hanging skin under potassium oxalate, titanium phospho oxalate, etc. the throat of cattle, where the butcher first inserts his knife in the slaughter. Striking of the Colour — Deposition of colour on a base material. Stick Vat —A vat containing vegetable tan liquor into which calfskins are suspended from wooden sticks. Striking Out — Leather which has been worked,

56 IS 1640:2007 drummed or paddled in liquors is usually creased or Suede Leather — Leathers in which the fibres on the somewhat puckered on the grain surface and contains tlesh side are cut very short by means of buffing or a large amount of liquor which can be squeezed out. fluffing wheels so as to present a velvety appearance. The creases are smoothed out, the surplus liquor Suede Shcarling — Tanned and dressed sheepskins, squeezed out and the leather is stretched to its fullest bearing short wool, sueded on the flesh side. extent by stretching or pushing it out perfectly flat on a table with a slicker. The process is termed ‘striking Suede Sheep — One-bath chrome tanned sheepskins, out’ or semi-chrome sheepskins, finished as suede leather.

Striking Through — Penetration of tannin, dyes Suede Splits — Leather made from the flesh splits of through leather i’ibres. hides or skins and finished with a velvet like nap.

Stripping — Removal of the feebly combined portion Sulphated Oils — Self-emulsifying oils. The Sulphato of tannin from leather. This process of partially (OS03H) groups linked to the carbon of the oil through detaining the leather is adopted in making semi-chrome a mediating ‘O’ are the emulsifier part. The emulsifying or retanning the E.I. kips and skins. Borax is used as a group can split off in the presence of acids and hence stripping agent. The term is also used for partial is not acid-stable. bleaching or making the shades of dyed leather lighter. Sulphited Oil — Self-emulsifying oils, carrying the Hydrosulphites, sulphurous acid, bisulphites, soap, etc, sulphonic acid groups — SO~H as the emulsifying part. are used as stripping agent in such cases. Since in this group the sulphur atom is directly attached Stuffed Leather — Term applied to leather which has to carbon of the oil, the anionic fatliquors made thereof had wax or grease worked into its substance. are resistant to both acid and salt and hence can be introduced along with pickle itself to prevent sticking stuffing — hnpregnation of grease, wax and fat and together of the separated fibrcs; can hold more neutral other conditioners into leather to make it pliable and oil; their increased molecular size enables them to somewhat water resisting (see ‘Filling’ and ‘Loading’). lubricate better and produce smoother and softer chrome leathers; when used in very large amounts Stuffing Drum — A heated drum used for make Icather heavy and looser. impregnation of wax, grease and fat. Sulphated Neatsfoot Oil — Neatsfoot oil which has Stunning — Rendering an animal unconscious by been treated with sulphuric acid and subsequently electric shock, pole axe, or humane killer before washed. bleeding. Sulphonated Oil — Word wrongly but commonly used Subcutaneous Tissue — The muscular and fibrous for sulphatcd oils. Sulphonation is usually a more tissues below the corneurn which connect the hide or drastic treatment requiring the use of chloro-sulphonic skin to the body of the animal. Usually loose enough acid or sulphur trioxide (see also ‘oil, sulphated’), to allow twitching of the skin. Sulphone Syntans — Syntan in which the linkage Substance — Thickness of leather. group is the sulphone group (-SOz-) instead of the usual Substance, Good — Denotes plumpness and fullness methylene group (-CHZ-). of leather. Sulphur Tannage — Tannage effected by the agency Substances, Leather — Leather content, hide of sulphur or its compounds. substance plus fixed tans (see also ‘Leather Sunmac, Sumach — Consists of the dried leaf of Substance’). certain species of Rhus, mainly Rhus coriaria Linn, Sudoriferous Glands — See ‘Sweat Glands’. fare. Arzacardiaceae, from the Mediterranean region (’Sicilian sumac’) and in more recent times the dried Suede Calf — Calfskin leather finished with a velvet leaves of various American species. It consists of the like nap on the flesh side. oldest and best known of the vegetable tans. The tannin Suede Finish — When dry tanned calf, sheep and present in the leaf is of the pyrogallol class. It is mainly goatskins are buffed ORthe flesh side, first to remove used in the light leather industry and the manufacture any loose fleshy tissue and again to produce a nap, the of sheepskin leathers. Sumac also bleaches the dark colour of other tanstuffs. The tannin content usually surface is referred to as a suede surface or finish (see varies from 25 to 30 percent. The name ‘Indian sumac’ ~1/so‘Velour Finish’). has been applied to Continusscoggygria Stop. syn. Suede Kld — Goatskin leather finished with a velvet Rhus Cotinuss Linn., fare., Anacardiaceae, a shrub or like nap on the flesh side. small tree allied to Sicilian sumac (1oc. tit) which is

57 IS 1640:2007 fairly widely distributed in North West India and both the grain layer near the hair bulbs and secrete sweat the leaves and barks are much used locally as a tanning consisting of water, together with a little urea and material. The average tannin content of the bark is 16 mineral matter and other waste products which are percent (dry material) which varies seasonally (that passed out from the body through the skin pores. collected during the rainy season had the highest tan Sweating Room — A warm, closed room saturated content). Leaves collected in autumn had the highest with moisture used for hanging hides and skins for tan content (21 -26 percent). It has, however, not been loosening the hair or wool by bacterial action. commercially exploited for export. Sweat Pit — Enclosed masonry room in which Sunmac Extract — Liquid extract made from sumac, sheepskins are hung in a slightly warm and humid by the use of water at 50; to 60”C. Boiling water is not atmosphere for loosening the wool by the sweating used, as it destroys the tannins present. Half an hour process. boiling destroys at least 25 percent of the tannin. Sweep Tare — Same as ‘Shake Tare’. Sumac Liquor — Sumac infusion. Liquors in general made from sumac are liable to vary in composition, Swelling — When hides and skins are immersed in an more so than most tanning materials. Sumac has in alkaline or acid solution, for example, in lime liquor general a higher pH value than other materials and a or sour tan liquor, they swell causing an increase in ~eryhigh acid and salt content. their thickness and weight. The swelling duc to the absorption of water is induced by alkalis and acids. This is partly the reason why sumac is favoured for the tanning of leather that has to withstand prolonged Syntan — Synthetic tanning agents. They are usually exposure to an acid atmosphere, such as bookbinding synthetic organic resins/or polymers or their derivatives leather. capable of converting pelts into leather.

Summer Hair — Crop of hair that grows in summer. Synthetic Dyes — Aniline dyes made from coal-tar products. Sun Blisters — Blisters or putrefied spots in hides dried during curing .in very hot sun. Synthetic Fatliquors — Paraffin sulphonamides further modified with monochloracetic acid. They are Sunning -– The exposure of patent leather to strong odourless, do not discolour and do not form spue and sunlight to remove the tackiness from the varnish, hence ideal for garment leathers. Superficial Fascia — Flesh on a hide or skin. T ,Suspenders — Sets of pits, usually three sets of seven Table Dyeing — The application of dyestuff to leather pits, each measuring 180 cm x 180 cm x 210 cm, used with a brush or swab, the leather being laid on a table. in pit tannage of sole leather. The hides are suspended in these pits which contain tan liquors varying in Table Run — Used to describe leather that has not strength from 7° to 19°Bk. Hides remain in these pits been sorted and graded before selling by the tanner for about 7 days. (see also ‘Tannery Run’).

Suspending Vat — Wooden receptacles used for Tack — A short nail with a broad head. suspending skins in tan liquors. Tacking — Stretching out leather by nailing it on Swabbing — Spreading a liquid over the surface of wooden board or frame, under strain round its edges, leather by hand. to dry and increase the area of the leather and to make the surface smooth. Sweating — Loosening the hair or wool by hanging the hides or skins in a closed atmosphere saturated with Tail Grip (Tail Extractor) — A device which hangs moisture thus encouraging bacterial action. The bacteria on the hook of the hoisting pulley and grips the exposed attack the roots of the hair or wool which is then easily tail bones between two serrated jaws. removed. Sheepskins are generally hung in damp, Tail Handler — The weakest handler liquor. underground chambers at 10° to 15°C in cold sweating and 20° to 25° C in warm sweating, for 48 hours. Tail Leach — Leach liquor of pit at the end of the battery. Sweat Chamber — A warm room in which the hairs of skins are loosened by bacterial decomposition. Tail Suspender — The weakest suspender liquor.

Sweat Gland — The sweat glands, also called Tail Vat — The tanning vat in a series that contains sudoriferous glands, are coiled sacs with spiral ducts the weakest liquor; the vat into which the raw stock is leading to the surface of the skin. They are located in hung for vegetable tanning.

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Taint —Incipient putrefiaction or decay in the hide Tan nage, Hard — A tanning process which produces observable from hair slip. a hard leather.

Tainted Hides — Hides in which putrefaction has set Tannage, Hemlock — Tannage with hemlock bark in. (see also ‘Hemlock, Leather’).

Tallow Oil --- Pale yellow liquid, obtained by pressing Tannage, Iron — Tannage with iron salts. tallow and used as a dressing and finishing agent. Tannage, Kanpur — Full tanned hides manufactured Tallow, Pressed —Animal fat principally of cattle and at Kanpur by the use of babul bark and myrobalans. sheep hardened by pressing and used in the preparation Tannage, Light — Refers to those leathers which have of dubbin for curried leather. assumed a pale colour after vegetable tanning. Tamarind Tree — The tree Tamarinds indica Linn. Tannage, Madras — Process of tanning followed in fare. leguminoseae, common in India; the bark and South India for the manufacture of E.I. tanned leathers leaves containing about 7 percent tannin, have been for export, and for tanning cow hides, light buffalo used for tanning locally. hides, buffalo and cow calfskins, goat and sheepskins. Tan —Abbreviation for tannin from vegetable tanning These leathers are known in the international leather materials. trade as E,I, tanned kips and skins. They are lightly tanned and have a pale colour produced by particular Tannase — A hydrolytic enzyme which splits the tanning materials used for tanning which are now glucoside molecules of tannins into sugar and principally imported wattle bark and mimosa extract polyphcnols. and indigenous avaram and konnaw bark in kip tanning Tannic Acid — It occurs naturally, probably as a and principality local awwam bark for the tannage of glucoside in nut-galls and tree barks from which it is goat and sheepskins. Local myrobalans known as extracted with water and alcohol. It is lustrous, faintly Salcm myrobalans are also used in both kip and skin yellowish amorphous powder, glistening scale or tannage to prevent the reddening of the tanned leather spongy mass, odourless, strongly astringent; Soluble on exposure to light. Certain amount of syntan is also in water, alcohol, and acetone, slightly soluble in ether. now used for bleaching the colour and to make the Icathcr more attractive. Tanning — Treating putrescible hides and skins with tanning agents so as to convert the former into Tannage, Sulphur — Tannage caused by deposition imputresciblc leather. of sulphur or its compounds on hide fibres. This deposition is effected by treating the hides or skins Tan Liquor — Infusion of vegetable tanning materials first in a strong solution of hypo and subsequently in a in water. Contains principally tannins and soluble non- solution of either sulphuric or hydrochloric acid and tannins and also acids produced by fermentation of salt. By the action of the acid on the hypo already organic matters and soluble salts present naturally in absorbed by the hide, sulphur is deposited on the fibres such vegetable tanning materials. which produce a mild tannage. Sulphur tannage is also used in the combination process oftannage of picking Tannage, Aldehyde — Principally the same as band Ieathcr in which heavy hides are first sulphur ‘Formaldehyde Tannagc’. Other aldchydes can also tart tanned and then oil tanned and finally vegetable tanned. but are not commercially used. The picking bands produced by this method are Tannage, Bag — We ‘Bag Tannage’ reported to be very popular in the Indian textile industry. Tannage, Chrome-– Process of tanning with chrome salts, Tannage, Valonia — Tannage with valonia (see also ‘Valonia Tannage’). Tannage, Combination — Tanning with more than one tanni~:g agent. Tannery Effluents — The tannery spent liquors which include amongst others lime, bate and tan liquors. Tannage, Dark —-Refers to those leathers which have assurncd a dark brownish shade after vegetable tanning, Tannery Run — See Table Run. owing to the dark colouring matter associated with the Tannery Wastes — The by-products of a tannery. tanstuffs. These usually consist of hair, fleshings, shavi~gs, spent Tannage, Dongola — See ‘Dongola Tannage’ tan, spent lime and other waste materials.

Tannage, Formaldehyde — The process of tanning Tanning Extract — Concentrated aqueous infusion by formaldehyde. It is also called’ aldehyde tannagc’. of vegetable tanning materials marketed in the liquid,

59 IS 1640:2007 solid andspray dried forms. Theuscofthese extracts force by the cross-section of the unstretched test piece isnowmore popular in the tanning industry than that in square ccntimetres. of raw tanning materials, such as tan containing barks, Terais — Cow hides obtainable from areas around the leaves or fruits. foot of the Himalayas including Nepal. Air-dried, large Tannins — Water soluble polyphenolic organic in size, running very even up to the shoulder and compounds of vegetable origin feebl y acidic in reaction producing a compact leather. and astringent in taste which combine with the proteins Teri Pod —-Pods or fruits of Caesalpinia di~na Rottl., (collagen) of the otherwise putrescible hides and skins fare. Leguminosae. The tannin content of the husk (dry andsoproduce thcimputrescible leather. pods freed of seeds) has been found to be 52 percent. Tannometer — See Barometer. As the large seeds contain little or no tannin, the tannin content of the whole pod (husk plus seed) is Tan Sludge — Usually the insoluble in tan liquors considerably lower (22 to 27 percent). which settle down as a layer. Often insoluble in yard (pit) liquors caused generally by atmospheric oxidation Terra-Cotta Leathers — Levelled, bleached, and other forms of degradation of tannins, enzymatic retanned, fat-liquored and dried vegetable tanned or otherwise. leathers used as starting material for making a variety of finished leathers made from cow and buff calfskins, Tan/Non-tan Ratio — Ratio of tannins and soluble non-tannins present in 100 g of total solubles of a Texas Steer Hide — Steer hide branded on side or tanning material as found by the hide powder method. butt, of compact narrow and close pattern and plump; It determines the suitability or otherwise of any material not necessarily from Texas. fat tanning. However, it is not an absolute value, varying Thermal Conductivity — The quantity of heat even for the same tan-stuff from sample to sample. conducted per unit time through unit area of a slab of Tare Allowance — The portion of the total weight of unit thickness having unit temperature differences a shipment of hides that represents weight other than between its faces. that of the hides themselves and which is deducted from the total weight in calculating the price to be paid. Thin Stock — A thin skin of papery tine grain.

Tartar Emetic — Antimony potassium tartrate used Thorns — Scratches in sheepskins due to thorns and as a fixing agent for tannin mordant in leather dyeing. other sharp points and edges.

Tawing — Dressing skins into leather with alum, salt Ticks (Cattle) — Arthropod parasites of the order and other materials instead of tannin. Acarina infesting verte-brate animals which lodge on the body of cattle and suck the blood causing small Tawcr — A leather dresser, one who dresses leather punctures or wounds. There are at least sixty kinds of with alum salts. cattle ticks known. The most common in India is Tawing Paste — A mixture of pasty consistency Boophilus or Mai-garopous annulatus. prepared from alum, salt, egg yolk, flour and other Ticky Skin — Skin showing defects on the grain materials to which sometimes a little olive oil is added. caused by ticks. Used in alum tanning or tawing for producing soft white leathers, such as glove kid. Toggle — A metal clamp equipped with jaws to grip leather and a prong to hold it in place in a slotted metal Taxidermy — Stuffing the skin of an animal suitably frame. stitched so that the product looks like the animal itself. Toggling — Stretching out a piece of damp leather Tear Strength — The load in kilograms required to and holding it in place for drying in a smooth and tear a leather having a thickness of one centimetre. stretched condition by means of toggles set in slots in Tempering — Wetting the leather to bring it to a a metal frame, properly sammed condition. Tooling — Producing patterns in relief on the grain Temper of Leather — The resistance of light leather surface of leather by hand with the aid of a hot metal to bending and the extent to which it recovers its shape tool. Also understood as hand embossing. after bending. Top Grain — The grain side (hair side) of the cattle Tensile Strength — The force per unit of the original hide reduced to a specific thickness, as designated by cross-sectional area of the unstretched test piece which an ounce standard in America, ranging from 2 to 10 is applied at the time of rupture of the test piece. It is ounces according to a standard leather gauge (see also calculated by dividing the breaking force in kilogram- ‘Ounce’).

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Top Lift Cleaning — Cleaning of the top piece of the leather and then peeling off the supporter film, the heel. leather gets a finished appearance in one operation. This is an elegant material for pollution — free Top Season — Final season prior to glazing. finishing. Total Ash — The residue left from burning leather in Tray Dyeing — The method used for dyeing light skins an open crucible at 800 + 25°C after sulphating. only. The moist skins are either folded or paired Tongue Tear Strength — The load required to tear together flesh to flesh and dipped in warm dyestuff the leather between two tongues formed by splitting solution in the tray until the desired depth of shade is the Icather perpendicular to its surface. obtained.

Trade Organizations (Raw Hides and Skins), AI1- Trim — Production of a good pattern by cutting the Round Sale — Many tanners and exporters have their edges of hides neatly, evenly and symmetrically and purchasing agents in the districts for raw hides and by separating the parts which are not useful to tanners, such as heads, shanks, tails, etc. ., skins but ordinarily, hides and skins pass through the * hands of various middlemen. Eventually, they find their Trimmings — The small pieces cut from the edge in way to aarhutdo~ a godown keeper, who residing at trimming the hides and used for making glue. the larger ccntres acts as a commission agent between the bepari and the dealer and the tanner or the exporter. Trimming Shearing — Tanned and dressed sheep or Parcels of hides dispatched to the acwhatdar may lambskin with short to medium, length wool suitable contain anything from 100 to 10 000 pieces. The for trimming purposes. aarlratdar usually advances from 75 to 80 pcrccnt of True Skin — The corium or derrna, the part of the the market value ofthc hides to the bepari immediately hi(ic or skin which is converted into leather. on receiving the railway receipt and when the competition is keen even more. The bqxwi ordinarily Trypsin –- An enzyme secreted in the pancreatic gland fixes a minimum selling price for the hides. The of all mamtnals. It hydrolyzes some proteins in alkaline aat-hatdur makes a rough selection of the hide for his medium and is the effective agent in puering process, own purposes and then usually sells them ‘all-round’ its optimum efficiency being atpH 8.5 and 37° to 38°C. or ‘over-all’ that is to say the purchaser accepts a parcel Turwar Bark — Same as avaram bark. of hides containing all grades and is not permitted to select merely the best. An ‘all-round’ parcel might Turkey Red Oil — Sulphatcd castor oil. contain for instance 30 percent slaughtered, 45 percent Turpentine — A mixture of terpene hydrocarbons deads, and25 percent rejections and doubles. An over- produced by steam distillation from the coresin of pines all parcel of 10000 hides might produce as many as and used, besides in paints and varnishes, in leather 70 selections for export baling. Even in ‘all-round’ lot, dressings. a rebate is sometimes claimed on the ground that the whole batch has not come LIp to an examined sample, Twaddle Degree — A degree of measurement of usually of fifty. The aarhatdar’s sale is a private density. auction, bids of each firm being ordinarily kept secret. Two-Bath Chrome Tanning — See ‘Chrome The aarhatdar receives a commission on the number Tanning’. of hides sold. This commission was formerly about Rs 1.50 to Rs. 2.00 for each 20 hides. The hides arc u actually sold by weight. The shipper carefully assorts Unctous — A term applied to leather with soft, full them for export although the actual work is done largely and oily feel; used for gloves. by poorly paid labour. The classification is ordinarily done before the hides leave the aarhatdar’s godown Unhairing Beam — Convex shaped platform usually but the selection is checked again in the shipper’s made of stone or wood inclined at an angle of 45° with godown. There they are trimmed and baled. the floor and used as a rest for hides and skins during unhairing operations. Tragacanth (Gum Tragacanth, Bassora Gum, Goat’s Thorn) — An exudation from Astragalus Union Tannage —A combination of vegetable extracts gummzyer Labill., fare. Lcguminosae used in leather produce union tannage sole leather, dressing. Upholstery Leather — Leather made for covering Transfer Foil — The entire finish film (i.e. all the three cushions of furniture, carriages and automobiles and layers in the reverse order) formed on a supporting extended to include the materials going into the sides polythcne film. When this is transferred onto a leather, and tops of vehicles. Made of large coarse grained polythene supporter side up, by pressing it onto the goatskins and more generally of spready cattle and 61 IS 1640:2007

horse hides split at least once and in many cases twice Grain snuffed Hand bufls — Terms used to or thrice. The top or grain cuts go into the higher grades describe upholstery leather of the same type and the splits into the cheaper. The various cuts arc as full top grain except that the surface o“fthe generally designated by the following names: hide is lightly snuffed or sand papered all over. Such snuffing removes only the top of the hair a) B@ing — Term denotes a very light cut of follicles. the grain portion (about one-half) taken from the surface of cattle hides. While produced d) Machine bufls — That cut of the hide from by upholstery tanners, it is not used for which a buffing of approximately 0.397 mm upholstery purposes but for book binding, in thickness has been removed from the grain. pocket books and other purposes. This leaves a portion of the grain on the entire hide. b) Full grain. Full top grain — First cut taken from the hair side of the hide from which e) Medium bufls (Special machine bufls) — A nothing whatsoever except the hair and the light cut of the hide approximately 0.794 associated epidermis has been removed and mm in thickness from the grain side. Medium which is of sufficient weight to make it buffs have traces of grains on portions of the suitable for upholstery purposes. Scars, hide. scratches or other imperfections may be f) Deep buffs — The first cut under the top grain, lightly buffed or corrected but the total area hand buff or machine buff. so affected does not exceed 5 percent of the !3) Splits — First and subsequent cuts under deep total surface of the hide. buff. Diagram showing two methods of c) Sm@ed top grain, corrected top grain, top splitting hides:

Hair side Hair side

1 Buffing 1 Top grain

2 Machine buff 2 Deep buff

3 Deep buff 3 Split

4 Split 4 Slab

5 Slab Flesh side

Flesh side

Upper Leather — Leather for making upper part of grain leathers than paste drying, similarly shorter duration boots and shoes usually manufactured from calfskins, of drying and tight break are some distinct advantages. goatskins, cattle hides or horse hides. Disadvantages are loss in thickness, requiring more v uniform neutralisation throughout the thickness and migration of dyes and neutral oils. More of neutral oil Vache Sole Leather — Sole made from ox hide. has to be used to compensate for the loss due to migration and to prevent the consequent dry feel. Sulphated oils Vachette –- Literally the hide of heifer. The French are better than sulfonated oils for use in leathers to be equivalent of ‘kip’ or more often of ‘kip leather’. dried by the vacuum drying method. Of the two Vacuum Drying — Drying with heat and pressure variations, Straight Through and Vacuum Crusting, the reduced by about 28” to 29” of mercury, enough to make latter is better. Vacuum drying is the third major method water boil at 12 to 18°C and a temperature of 140 to of drying, introduced around 1962. Originally designed 200”F on the hot plate. Greater area yield, better for fill drying, it is now used for partial drying to set the streamlining production flow and better suitability to grain to be followed by a slower air-drying.

62 .. J.. lll II -1 ..

IS 1640:2007

Valonia (Valonea or Vdlonea) — Is an international Ventilating Power — The ability of leather to allow natnc for a much esteemed tanning material that consists moisture to pass from an atmosphere of higher to one of the dried acorn cups (or cupules) of the valonia oak, of Iowcr relative humidity. Quercus macrolepsis Kotschy syn. Q. aegilops Lirm and Volatile Matter Content — The weight lost by the allied species, fare. Fagaceae which occurs in the eastern Icather when dried at 102+ 2°C to constant weight. Mediterranean region and Asia Minor. It is considered one of the best and most useful tanning materials, being w a tan of the pyrogdlol type. It is chiefly used in the production of high grade heavy leather, such as sole Wallaby Leather — Leather from skins of wallaby; a Icathcr where weight and water resistance are important. small and medium sized species of Australian The tannin content of the wdonia cLLpsmay vary from kangaroo. 25to31 percent while the beard or ‘trillo’ is considerably Walrus — The true walrus hide is of such thickness richer, the tan content being usually 40 percent. Solid that it is generally used for buffing wheels and must vdonia extracts may contain 64 to 86 percent tannin be split before using as bag leather. It is ditllcult to and 21 to 25 percent soluble non-tans. determine leather made of seal and walrus skins after Valonia Beard — See ‘Valonia’. tanning and splitting and the names arc often used interchangeably. Walrus grain is sometimes imitated Valonia Tannagc — Tmnage with tannin from valonia. on cattle hide, sheepskin and goatskin as well as splits Valve Leather — A collective term sometimes used from hides of various animals, In such cases, the proper for the cattle hide. Leather, either vegetable, chrome descriptions are ‘walrus grained cow hides’, ‘walrus or combination tanned, with special stuffing added, and grained goatskin’, etc. The term ‘walrus leather’ when employed in pump valves, as piston packing, etc. used in the traveling goods industry is generally regarded by the trade as bciug a variety of genuine Vat — A large rectangular contaiucr in which hides sealskin leather on which a simulation of walrus grain and skins arc treated with water or solutions as in has been embossed. soaking, liming, bating, pickling and tanning. It is sometimes equipped with paddle wheels for agitating Walrus-Hides — Hide from the sca cow or sea horse, stock and liquor and sometimes with rocker fiarncs as a carnivorous mammal found in the Arctic seas. in the preliminary tanning of SOICleather. Wandoo Extract — See ‘Redunca Extract’. Vat Dyeing — Dyeing with dyestuffs insoluble in water but soluble in alkaline solution when reduced with Warble Hole — Hole caused by the warble larva in suitable agents. the skin of the living animal.

Veal — I.cathcr with a grain similar to, but somewhat Warble Lump — A small hard tumour caused by the coarser than that of calf, made from the skins of larvae of the warble fly. immature bovine animals which after weaning have Warbles — See ‘Grubs’. not been fed on grass but on a milk diet and have been allowed to grow comparatively large, yielding skins Wash Leather — Chamois leather made of goat or Iargcr and heavier than calfskins. sheepskin used for dusting, polishing and cleaning.

Vealskins — Heavy calfskins. Water Absorption — The gain in weight of the test- Vegetable Shavings — Leather straps or bits obtained piece as a percentage of its conditioned weight prior when a vegetable tanned Ieathcr is shaved. to test for each hour of test or for such periods as may bc specified. Veining — Greenish spots spreading in the form of a fern and appearing after removal of the hair. Water-Bufallo — Same as buffalo. The distinction between land and water buffalo is not recognized in Veiny -- Flaving coloured markings like veins. zoology and is a matter of diet and climate rather Vellum –- Fine calfskin parchment (see also than of breed. Externally, the hide of a water buffalo ‘Parchment ‘). is almost bald, having practically no hair. The so- called land buffaloes inhabit drier climates; and their Velour Finish — Velvet finish (see also ‘Suede hides have much more hair than those of the water Finish’ ). buffaloes. Velvet Leather — A kind of fancy leather of different Water Lizard — See ‘Lizardskins’. shades made from skins after bufhg off the grain. The leather has a soft velvety nap. Water Resistant Leather — A leather is said to be

63 IS 1640:2007 water resistant if the treatment given increases its Welting —-A strong thin leather cut into straps used resistance to absorption and passage of water for making welts of shoes. throughout its thickness. Welting Belly or Shoulder — Tanned cattle hide belly Water Soluble Inorganic Substance — Sulphated ash or shoulder of tannage and quality suitable for the of water soluble matter. manufacture of welting for footwear.

Water Soluble Matter — Quantity of all those White Lace or White Hide Leather —Alum and salt substances which under certain conditions arc leached tanned cattle hide suitable for the manufacture of laces out of leather by water. These are principally organic for industrial purposes. tannins, non-tannins and mineral salts. Whiting Machine — A fine buffing machine. Water Soluble Organic Substance — The difference between water soluble matter and water soluble Whitening — Buffing the tlcsh side of stuffed or inorganic substances. curried leather, such as harness, belting or russet, either by machine equipped with blade or cylinder or by hand Water Transmission — The mass of water which using a whitening slicker. passes through the leather in a specified time interval and measured by the gain of mass. Whitening Slicker — A sharp steel slicker whose sharp edge is slightly bent by means of a steel rod Wattle Bark — See ‘Bark, Wattle’. before working with it. It is used for whitening the Waxed Calf — Vegetable tanned calfskins rather flesh side of russet leather to cut off long tibres and to heavily greased, blackened and finished on the flesh make the flesh close and smooth. Whitening is a very side. Wax is used in the finishing, which accounts for skilful operation. the name. White Weight — The weight of limed, unwashed Waxed Kips — East India kips vegetable tanned and stock. finished like the waxed calf on the flesh side. Window — In a chamois skin, a thin portion that Waxed Leather — General name for all curried transmits light when the skin is viewed against a Icathcrs to which a finish like that of waxed calf and window or light background. kips has been given. Waxed leather mainly wax calf and kips was formerly used for making shoe uppers Wild Grain — Same as ‘Marbled Grain’. but it has now been supplanted to a great extent by Willow Calf — Full chrome calf leather finished in chrome leather, namely, by box calf and box sides. At brown shade with a typical willow grain or box grain present, waxed leather is used for making military boots pattern by boarding. as it has been found, that a finish on the flesh side withstands rough wear and abrasion better than the Willow Sides — Coloured upper leather dressed in grain finished leather. the same way as willow calf made from cattle hides cut down the backbone. The term is applied to full Waxed Splits — Leather manufactured from the flesh chrome, semi-chrome and vegetable tanned sides splits of hides which are given a finish like a waxed similarly dressed. calf.

Weave, Ankle of— The general orientation of the hide Wool-Grease, Adeps lanae (Lanolin, Wool-Fat, tibres with the grain layer, making an angle which Wool-Grease) — Purified yellow grease from sheep’s varies from the vertical to the horizontal weave. wool .

Weight, Beam House — Limed weight. Woolled Sheepskins — Sheepskins or lambskins tanned and dressed with wool on. Weighting Leather (1) — Increasing the weight of leather by incorporating into it some weight-giving Wrappers — Same as ‘Doubles’. materials. Wringing — Removing the bulk of water from wet Weighting Material (2) — Material used for loading, leather by passing it through specially designed that is, for suitably conditioning it to modern ‘shoe wringers. machinery’. Wrinkle (1) — Defect appearing on the grain side of Weight Limed — Generally called pelt weight, that sheepskin after removal of the wool and tanning, in is, weight after liming, unhairing and fleshing. This is the form of tine ridges perpendicular to the backbone. the weight on which yields of leather are reckoned. On the flesh-side of wooled skins, it could also appear

64 IS 1640:2007 in the form of ridges perpendicular to the backbone, z but very much deeper. This defect is caused by folds Zinc Chloride — Much used in curing raw hides, in the skin of the living animal and is mostly being applied as a 3 to 5 percent solution on the flesh encountered in rams. side of wet-salted hide specially during their transit Wrinkle (2) — A permanent crease or furrow on the in summer. Its use prevents hair slip to a remarkable grain surface of a hide or leather, incapable of removal degree. by rolling or plating. Zinc White — Zinc oxide used as a white pigment in Wrinkled — Marked with a small furrow or ridge. the manufacture of white pigment finish for leather.

Y Zirconium — A rare earth metal some salts of which Yellow Lizard — See ‘Lizardskins’ have tanning properties specially the basic sulphate.

Yield of Leather — The number of pounds per square Zirconium Tannage — The process (which has been feet of finished leather per single weight unit of raw recently developed) of tanning with basic zirconium hide or limed pelt. sulphate for producing white leather.

65 IS 1640:2007

1A Grain Pattern of Cow Hide 1B Grain Pattern of Buffalo Hide

1C Grain Pattern of Ox Hide 1D Grain Pattern of Sheepskin

1E Grain Pattern of Goatskin

FIG. 1 GRAIN PATTERN OF VARIOUS HIDES AND SKINS

66 IS 1640:2007

2A Fleshing Knife 2D Steel Slicker 2H Moon Knife 26 Scudding Knife 2E Glass Slicker 2C Scudding Knife for Vegetable 2F Brass Slicker Tanned Hides and Skins 2G Stone Slicker

2J Fleshing and Unhairing Beam 2K Scudding Beam Used in Vegetable %nning Y&d for Striking Out

FIG. 2 TOOLS AND IMPLEMENTS

67 IS 1640:2007

FIG. 3GOACSKIN (FLESH SIDE) ;GOAMKIN (HAIR SIDE)

FIG. 4 LE.LWHERWITH Pox MARKS

68

1-0 BELLY --—— ---- —--- ______---- ____ I r $ I I L I -1 I I / m BEND m 1 z ml ~ 0 c1 ——–-——-——–——–—––-—–— l—––z-—-; ~ : I $ BEND I I -+ -i I -1 I I 0 c- 1 1 -1 I _—-— —I-= m ———_—-—_——— . -L—— m -.—— - “z o

o 0 4 IS 1640:2007

ANNEX A (Fowwor@

COMMITTEE COMPOSITION

Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products Sectional Committee , CHD 17

Organization Representative(s)

Central Leather Research hrstitute, Chennai DIRECTOR (Chairman) DR S. SADULLA (Alternate 1) DR C. MURALIOHARAN (Alternate 11)

A V Thomas Leather & Allied Products Pvt Ltd, Chennai SHRI HABIB HUSSAIN SHRI K. MANIVANNAN(Alternate)

All lndia Skins & Hide Tanners and Merchants Association, Chcnnai SHRI M. SRINIVAS SHRI N. M. ZACHARIAH (Alfernate)

BASF India Ltd, Mumbai SHRI P, R. CHAUDHARI DR S. A. NADGOUDA (Alternate) fhta India Ltd, Kolkata SHRI S. R. RAHA SHRI S. MOITRA(Alternate) Central Footwear Training Institute, Chennai SHRI S. N. GANGULY SHRI S. CHAKRABORTY(Alternate)

Central Pollution Control Board, Delhi SHRI T. WNUGOPAL SHRI AJAY AGGARWAL(Alternate)

College of Leather Technology, Kolkata SHRI BUDDHADEV CIIATTHUEE PROF SWAPAN KUMAR BASU (Alternate)

Consumer Federation of India, New Delhi REPRESENTATIVE

Comwil for Leather Exports, Chennai SHRI M. M. HASHIM DR ZACKRIA SAIT (Alternate)

Directorate General of Quality Assurance (DGQA), Kanpur SHRI D. K. SRIVASTAVA SHRI S. K. CHAKRABOSTY @thernafe)

Footwear Design & Development Institute, Noida SEIRI B. S. KATIYAR SHRI NAVENOU SHEKHAR (Alternate)

Harman Sales Pvt Ltd, Mumbai SHRI H. K. RAZDAN SHRI JEEVAN RAZDAN (Alternate)

Indian Finished Leather Manufacturers & Exporters Association, SHRI SALAHUDDIN BARI Chennai

Indian Footwear Component Manufacturers Association, Kolkata SHRI MANI ALMAL

Indian Leather Technologists Association, Kolkata SHRI ARNAB JHA DR GAUTAM MUKHERSE~ (Alternate)

Indian Shoe Federation, Chennai SHRI RAMFXH SUBRAMANIAM SIIRI AIIHUIT SETH (,4/ternafc)

Indotil Chemicals Co Ltd, Mumbai SHIU S. K. JHA

ltalab Private Ltd, Chennai SHRI M. A. ETIAPPA~ SIIRI J. J. PATEL (A[ternate)

Khadi & Village Industries Commission, Mumbai SHRI S. VIJAYA KUMAR SI IRI R. LAWRENL’~(Alternate)

Kings International Ltd, Kanpur SHRI TAJ ALAM Swu G. S. KUMARAN (Alternate)

Leather Chemicals Manufacturers Association, Mumbai SHRJ VADUVUR T. SRIKANTH SHRI SANJEW MEIITA (Alternate)

Liberty Footwear, Gharaunda %o ADIZSH GUPTA Stwu S. S. LAHIR; (Alternate)

Ministry of Commerce, New Delhi RFVRCXENTATWE

National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad SHRI SHEKHAR CHATT~RJEE

National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi SIIRI E. SIVASAKTHI

70 “-1 -,- l-. ..e.—

IS 1640:2007

Organization Repre.~errtative6)

Office of the Development Commissioners (SS1), New Delhi SIIRI S. K. BASU SIIRI R. K. KAPOOR (A//ernate)

Planning Commission, New Delhi DR S. C, LAIIIRI

Robinson Sports. New Delhi SHRI S. S. JOLLY

SGS India Pvt Ltd, Gurgaon SHRI JAIDFEP KOHLI SHRI CHARAN SINGH (,4/~ertrafe)

Sports Authority of India Ltd, New Delhi REPRESENTATIVE TALTEIA, Chennai SHRI VAOIVELU

Tata International Limited, Dewas slfRI O. K. KAUL SHRI R. G. BHIRUD(,4//ertrafe)

Vishnu Chemicals, Chennai DR P. G, PRADHAN SHRI C. P. C. KAMALAKAR RAO (,4/fernafe)

BIS Directorate General DR U. C. SRIVASTAVA,Scientist ‘F’ & Head (CHD) I [Representing Director General (Ex-oficio)] Membw ,$i?cvetay SIIRI E. DFVEN~AR Scientist ‘F’ (CHD), BIS

71 Bureau of Indian Standards

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Copyright

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Review of Indian Standards

Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewed periodically; a standard along with amendments is reaffirmed when such review indicates that no changes are needed; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession of the }atest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of ‘BIS Catalogue’ and ‘Standards : Monthly Additions’.

This Indian Standard has been developed from Doc : No. CHD 17 (868).

Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

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