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IS 1640 (2007): Glossary of Terms Relating to Hides, Skins and Leather [CHD 17: Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products]

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IS 1640 (2007): Glossary of Terms Relating to Hides, Skins and Leather [CHD 17: Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products] इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान का अधकार, जी का अधकार” “परा को छोड न 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 1640 (2007): Glossary of terms relating to hides, skins and leather [CHD 17: Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products] “ान $ एक न भारत का नमण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda “Invent a New India Using Knowledge” “ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी चराया नह जा सकताह ै”ै Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS 1640:2007 wi,m+k WET * TT1’R$nf$% ● WwI+ll Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TO HIDES, SKINS AND LEATHER (First Revision,) ICS 01.040.59; 59.140.20 0 BIS 2007 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG NEW DELHI 110002 December 2007 Price Group 16 Leather Tanning Materials and Allied Products Sectional Committee, CHD 17 FOREWORD This Indian Standard (First Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Leather, Tanning Materials and Allied Products Sectional Committee had been approved by the Chemical Division Council. The leather industry occupies a privileged position in the trade table of this country. Of late, the development of an expanding export market for finished leather goods has further heightened the interest in this industry. In order to facilitate unambiguous exchange of commercial and scientific information within the industry, and to inculcate an increasing scientific bias in the use of terms, current in the leather trade, the standard was first published in 1960. In the preparation of this glossary, most of the indigenous terms in use in the Indian hides, skins and leather trade, together with their synonyms and common terms in vogue, have been included. The glossm-y, however, limits itself strictly to terms related to hides, skins and leather; terms relating to footwear and other trades, general, chemical and Other terms pertaining to proprietary and patented items being not included. Terms which may be commonly used in the leather industry but convey commonly accepted dictionary meanings have been excluded. [n this revision, additional terms have been added and a few terms which have lost significance have been deleted, It is hoped that this glossary will prove useful to the leather trade in general and the Indian leather industry in particular. The composition of the Committee for formulation of this standard is given in Annex A. This standard is intended chiefly to cover the technical definitions of terms. and it may not necessarily include all the legal implications of the terms. \ IS 1640:2007 Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TO HIDES, SKINS AND LEATHER (First Revision ) 1 SCOPE Acid Colours — Group of aniline dyes which are compounds of organic acids and an inorganic base, This standard defines the terms strictly relating to hides, usually sodium hydroxide. A strong acid, such as skins and in the Indian leather trade and industry. sulphuric or formic acid, has to be added to the dye 2 TERMINOLOGY bath in order to liberate the organic acids which are responsible for the dyeing (see also ‘Dye ‘). A Acid Number — The quantity of base, expressed in A —Abbreviation used by exporters of hides to denote milligrams of potassium hydroxide that is required to the following descriptions of hides — Agras, neutralize the acid constituents present in one gram of Assortment. Thus, a bale of hides marked A denotes oil, fat, wax and fatty acid. the Assortment Agra. Acid Salt Ratio — The ratio of acids and total neutral Aarhat — Warehouses or godowns for hides and skins salt present in the tanning material or its extract, both where dealers bring hides and skins for sale. There are being expressed in terms of milliequivalent per 100 g several such godowns in centres like Agra, Amritsar, of air dried material. It is a measure of astringency of Calcutta, Delhi, Julhmdur, Kanpur, etc, and they a vegetable tanning material. constitute what are known as hide markets. The buyers, Acid Soaking — Soaking with the addition of acid to chietly exporters and tanners come to these aar%ats to accelerate the process in respect of hides and skins make their purchases. cured by drying. Aarhatdar— The proprietor of an aai-hat, who acts as Acidity — In the leather trade, the term represents the a commission and selling agent for the beparis. Usually acid content of the liquor (tan liquor) which is he finances the beparis by advancing him the value of expressed in terms of milligram equivalent per litre. a consignment against railway receipt and he is Actually, acidity represents the hydrogen ion (H+) or responsible for the safe keeping of goods until sold. hydronium ion (H30+) concentration and as the degree The aarhatdar negotiates terms and prices with the of dissociation for different acids varies, acidity is buyers and the beparis are not usually allowed to generally expressed in terms ofpH value. The term is interfere. For this service, the aarhatdar charges a also used for referring to the acidity of tanned leathers. commission from the bepari. Acrylic Syntan — Essentially a polymer of acrylic Aarhatdari — The commission that a bepari has to and/or methacrylic acid with a small amount of an agent pay to an aarhatdar when his goods are sold. like sodium alginate incorporated into the polymer. Abrasion Resistance — The reciprocal of the loss in Acorn Cup — See CValonia’. thickness of leather after a definite amount of abrasive action on it. An important property of sole leather. Activated Sludge Process —A biological wastewater treatment process in which a mixture of wastewater Abyssinia Hides — Abyssinian cattle are of the zebu and activated sludge is agitated and aerated. The type with a definite hump. The raw hide is usually activated sludge is subsequently separated from the washed to give ‘bathed’ hides. The chief cwntre of the treated wastewater by sedimentation or returned to the trade is the town ofAddis Ababa, from which is derived process as need may be. the common trade description of all Abyssinian hides as ‘Addis Ababa Bathed’ or ‘Addis Ababa Unbathed’. Ageing — Keeping or resting in a heap or pile for a certain time with a view to maturing or seasoning. Acid Bate — Bates that can be used in thepH range of 3-5; active even at 20”C; smoothens the grain; less Aggregation — The dyestuffs and vegetable tannins drastic than alkaline bates; can be used on chromed form addition compound but the degree of aggregation stock also after an acid wash to remove the free chrome depends largely on ionic groups present. This to an in the leather. extent controls the dyeing of leathers. 1 .,—_ -.—_____,. ...—— ~....- . IS 1640:2007 Agras — These are well-cleaned dry-cured hides of Alum Tanning or Tannage — A technique of good leather substance, the flesh side of which is preparing leather solely with a mixture the essential yellowish in colour (see also ‘Jullunders’ and ‘A’). active ingredient of which is an aluminium salt, often, but not ecessarily alum, for example, alum, salt, egg Air-Dried Hides — Hides cured by exposure of the yolk and flour. The natural colour of the leather is white flesh side to mild rays of the sun until they are dry. (see also ‘Tawing Paste’). Airing Off — Slightly drying the stock (leather) after Ammunition Leather — Vegetable, chrome and application of finish. combination tanned leather curried and finished for Airless Spray — Spraying with hydraulic pressure making military boots (see ‘Army Grain’ and ‘Russet’), instead of compressed air. Amphoteric Syntan — Aliphatic amines condensed Air Speed Drying — Very rapid air drying in which with novolaks using Mannich reaction in organic relatively high temperatures and controlled humidity solvents. The products are soluble in water though there are used. are no sulfonic groups and are amphoteric in character. Albumins — A kind of simple corpuscular proteins Amritsars — A variety of goatskins now collected containing sulphur and coagulable by heat and soluble from Punjab and Rajasthan. On account of their large in water itself (for example, egg albumin known as spread, they are sought-after for upholstery and egg white). carriage work. Alcohol Precipitation Value — This value gives a Angle of Weave — See ‘Weave, Angle of’. measure of the total soluble matter in a tannin solution which may be precipitated by absolute alcohol. It is Angular Spray — Spraying of finishes at different determined as follows: angles to produce a two-tone effect; also known as Shadow spray. Take 10 ml of 2.5 percent tannin solution and evaporate to dryness to give the total soluble matter. Analytical Strength Solution — A solution of Take another 10 ml of solubles in a 100 ml graduated 04 + 0.025 percent tannin content. flask and make up to the mark with absolute alcohol, shake and filter. Evaporate 50 ml of the filtrate in a Aniline Dyed — Leather that has been dyed with small flask. The weight of the residue is subtracted aniline dyes and has not received any colour from from the weight of total solubles obtained earlier pigmented finish.
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