Page 1Monday

PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN Of Glove The Look cool handwarmers, seepages 6and 7. furcollarandhat. Forlong, cozyscarf, more length woven suedeversions, wornwitha Case inpoint:Carolina Herrera’s elbow- beyond their practicaldimension thisseason. NEW YORK —Designers tookglovesfar As T By CateT. Corcoran in Austin thispastweek. debuted at the a visualandlocalfoodguidegamethat c unimagined ways,fromthecontroversial concepts thatusethei of copycatsor, insomecases,completelynew to try, astheweeksand monthsbringscores blogs tonewemergingplatforms. are lookingbeyondFacebook, Twitter and companies onthehuntforcustomersandbuzz changes fasterthanl Facebook andTwitter Brands MovingBeyond Web’s NewWave: Next hatroulette toFoursquare toFoodspotting, While the variety of collaborations and While thevarietyofcollaborationsand There isnolackofsitesandapplications he sociA W booms, page8. bra business The full-figure INNERWEAR: EYE: Karenelson

s s Women’s Newspaper Daily •March22,2010$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily music, page4. on songwriting, outh By l M modeling and e See ady Gaga’s wigs, fashion ady Gaga’swigs,fashion nternet inpreviously nternet D i s TheNext, Page A W

outhwest conference

lANDsc s

A pe pe

D 12 M on Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear D center, page10. future oftheGarment goes onoverthe NEWS: Thedebate handbag andshoeline

for p isabel Toledo todo ay s ayless, page2. ACCESSORIES:

s

2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 WWD.COM Feds Break Up Counterfeit Ring By Liza Casabona money laundering. The defendants began conspir- ing in March 2008, according to court documents. WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMOnDay wAshington — Federal officials said Friday they The U.S. defendants face maximum five-year had broken up a multimillion-dollar counterfeit sentences for conspiracy, up to 20 years in pris- ring with ties in Baltimore, New York, London, on on each of the 33 smuggling charges, up to 10 FAshion Malaysia and China. years for each count of trafficking in counterfeit Great gloves, in a large range of materials and The U.S. Attorney for the District of Maryland goods and a maximum of 20 years on five money 6 details, were one of the strongest accessories and U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement laundering counts, in addition to monetary fines trends to emerge from the fall runways. charged nine defendants with smuggling more in the millions of dollars. Two of the defendants than 630,000 counterfeit Gucci, Coach, Cartier were arrested on Wednesday, six were arrested geneRAL and Nike items such as shoes, handbags and Thursday and one suspect is at large. As the social media landscape changes, fashion watches worth an estimated $33 million into the The conspirators allegedly imported goods 1 companies on the hunt for customers and buzz U.S. through the Port of Baltimore. manufactured in Malaysia and China into the are looking beyond Facebook, Twitter and blogs In a related case, authorities in London said U.S., according to the indictment. To get the goods to new emerging platforms. Friday they had arrested six individuals and seized cleared through Customs for sale in the U.S., the 50,000 counterfeit Gucci, Ugg, Versace, Ralph defendants made contact with individuals who, 3 J.C. Penney and Olympic gymnast Nastia Liukin Lauren, Nike and Adidas items at 30 locations in unknown to them, were undercover ICE agents. are teaming up for a full lifestyle collection for girls the greater London area in what they said was one The undercover ICE agents documented 33 ages eight to 12, called Supergirl by Nastia. of the largest counterfeit busts in U.K. history. occasions between May 2008 and December 2009 8 INNERWEAR: Bra sizes in the U.S. are larger than ever when the members of the smuggling ring alleg- as manufacturers and retailers try to accommodate edly directed shipments of counterfeit goods the rising number of full-figure women. criminal organizations that through the Port of Baltimore. Goods were either “ transferred to locations in New York and New 9 ACCESSORIES: The eyewear sector showcased smuggle and sell counterfeit Jersey or they were picked up in Maryland. a strong sense of nostalgia as vintage trends The London investigation was a result of coop- dominated the Mido trade show in Milan. goods in the United states eration between City of London Police, the U.K. The National Retail Federation and eBay are Border Agency and ICE. It is ongoing. ICE said it 10 forging a strategic alliance in an effort to fight endanger our economy. had tracked the movement of shipping contain- organized retail crime. — John morton, U.s. immigration” ers that were used to smuggle counterfeit goods from China to the U.S. and U.K., which lead to eYe the arrests in both cities. One of the defendants and customs enforcement Reports from Angela Missoni’s dinner at the new charged in Baltimore allegedly arranged to have s 4 Rodeo Drive boutique and the luncheon at Barneys “Criminal organizations that smuggle and sell money wired to undercover agents for three con- olya thompson counterfeit goods in the United States endan- tainers that were to be shipped to England. The New York to celebrate Duro Olowu’s new collection. ger our economy and rob legitimate industries same defendant also allegedly met with under- Classified Advertisements...... 15 of their business,” said John Morton, assistant cover agents in England to discuss expansion of secretary with U.S. Immigration and Customs the counterfeit smuggling operation. To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is Enforcement, also known as ICE. “Nike is grateful for the diligence and hard [email protected], using The individual’s name. Rod Rosenstein, U.S. Attorney for the District work that the agents of Immigration and Customs WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2010 of Maryland, said, “Intellectual property crimes Enforcement have demonstrated throughout this FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoU P. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 61. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one are among the Justice Department’s top white- investigation,” said Lori Colbert, North America additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, collar enforcement priorities.” brand protection manager for Nike Inc. “Their and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance The indictment includes 72 counts of conspira- commitment to ending the flow of counterfeit Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; cy, smuggling, trafficking in counterfeit goods and goods across borders has been unwavering.” Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P. o. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/ Toledo Doing Collection for Payless wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If By Caroline Tell lifestyles. In a way, it’s the closest thing to real life during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with for me. And I feel like I’m all of these women.” your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S ISABEL TOLEDO IS CREATING HANDBAGS Toledo, creative director of the Anne Klein WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 and shoes for the masses. designer collection until it was closed by or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the The designer is launching an accessories Jones Apparel Group Inc., joins a roster of de- World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these and footwear collection for Payless ShoeSource, signers who have signed on with the Topeka, offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. which will hit hundreds of Payless stores, as Kan.-based footwear retailer under its Payless WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, well as at payless.com, starting Designer Collections series. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND

R TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART in September. e Previous partnerships re- isabel N WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED Isabel Toledo for Payless toledo sulted in footwear lines by TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED handbags and footwear will Lela Rose, Alice + Olivia and MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. retail for less than $40 in Christian Siriano. mixed materials such as pat- “We originally outlined the BAC h RANDALL ent leather, nylon, rubber and BY program to help new, fresh DAILY

mesh. The line will feature OTO talent broaden their spec- h an array of shapes, including P trum,” said LuAnn Via, chief flats, square heels and stylish executive officer at Payless QUote [social media is galoshes for a rainy day. ShoeSource. “It’s a great op- “ “Working with Payless portunity for new designers causing] an evolutionary alteration of gives me an opportunity to and it gave us the opportunity reach so many women, and it’s to bring runway fashion to the brand’s identity. a treat to be able to touch as the world. That’s what we’re ” many women as I will,” said looking to do, to bring value — Bill D’Arienzo, chief executive officer of wDA marketing. Page 1. Toledo, who dressed First and fashion to our customers. Lady Michelle Obama in a And while we like the idea of lime green coat and day dress bringing in emerging talent, coRRection for her husband’s inaugural we now have a fashion icon in ceremony. “It’s really a collec- the group with Isabel.” Bottega Veneta’s limited edition Moscow clutch is priced at 225,500 tion for women from all walks Payless ShoeSource is a unit rubles, or $7,708 at current exchange. The price was incorrect in a of life, literally. And it’s been interesting as I’ve of Collective Brands Inc., the largest specialty story on page 10, Friday. had to have a different design hat on. family footwear retailer in the U.S. with fourth- “My business is quite couture and precise,” quarter sales totaling $741.7 million. The company coming this week she said. “This is taking into account all different operates 4,500 Payless stores around the world. monDAY: Phillips-Van Heusen thURsDAY: Dallas Market Center Corp. and Tiffany & Co. report Apparel & Accessories Market fourth-quarter and year-end and Fashion Industry Gallery • More from Accessories: sales and earnings. (through Sunday). Dsquared2 TODAY ON Endless Gloves American Apparel for fall. • • Additional images tUesDAY: Première Vision Inc., Signet Jewelers Ltd., Tokyo and Workshop Tokyo Lululemon Athletica Inc. and

e from the Missoni

R (through Thursday). Wet Seal Inc. report fourth- dinner party • Walgreen Co. reports quarter and year-end sales Fe UG e • Trend Report: second-quarter sales and earnings. AN e

h and earnings.

P Denim on the

e WWD

T FRiDAY: The U.S. Commerce

S .com fall runways

BY weDnesDAY: Delia’s Inc. reports Department releases the • More from the fourth-quarter and year-end fourth-quarter gross domestic

Ph OTO Duru Olowu Party sales and earnings. product report. R 4 WWD, monDay, march 22, 2010 WWD.COM Fever Pitch Don’t hate Karen elson because she’s beautiful. DisliKe her because she’s also married to a rock star (the White stripes front man Jack White); has two cute kids (scarlett, three, and henry, two); runs a vintage clothing store near her home in nashville in her spare time, and can actually carry a tune. the model, 31, who’s received critical praise for her voice as lead singer of cabaret troupe the citizens brand, will release her first solo effort, “the Ghost Who Walks,” in May. tonight, the flame- haired brit will give a preview of the album during her gig at new York city’s le Poisson rouge. WWD caught up with elson from her home in Music city while she was packing for her big trip. — Amanda FitzSimons Duro olowulowu withwith Amanda BrooksBrooks WWD: how would you describe the music on your album? K.E.: i was unbearably concerned and insecure inin hishis design.design. Karen Elson: i was definitely influenced by living in about that, and that’s what has taken me so long Margherita eva nashville and listened to a lot of hank Williams and to put a record out. Model-slash-anything is just and Angela Mendes Patsy cline, so there are a lot of mournful songs on such a [stigma], which is a shame because i Missoni, both in there. there are also a lot of murder ballads on there, know so many ridiculously talented models. in Missoni. Missoni. which is quite morbid. the last song on my record is it’s just the connotation of the word ‘model.’ called “Mouths to feed,” which was inspired by the if you said waitress-slash-singer or secretary- Great Depression and Dust bowl, about a woman slash-singer, it’s all fine. [but] this album who’s a farmer, who’s been working her hands to wasn’t some sort of vanity project where i said, the bone and all she has left is dust. “hey, Jack, let’s make a record so i can be a singer now.” i worked incredibly hard at making WWD: sounds uplifting. Why such dark subject it legitimate. matter? K.E.: i’ve felt sadness and all kinds of things in my WWD: how does performing on stage compare life. [but] if i said, “Woe is me,” i think people to walking down a runway? would laugh at me and say, “shut up.” so that K.E.: i’m petrified [doing both]. on the runway, was always the catalyst for my record — trying i just feel so awkward. i feel like i’m the to tap into the life experiences i’ve had but not clumsiest model. i see all these beautiful necessarily using me as the main figure, using 6-foot-tall amazons and 5-foot-8 me who still characters and whatnot instead. can’t even walk in heels, and as much as i try, i usually end up tripping up somewhere. WWD: Your husband produced your album. Did [but] the payoff with singing is that you’re you have any reservations about working with singing your songs. the payoff with the spring Flings your spouse? runway, maybe there isn’t one. i’m just crossing K.E.: originally i was very hesitant to play my fingers that i’m not going to fall. The dinner AngelA Missoni him any of my songs because i respect the hosted Wednesday night at the boundaries of our relationship — he’s not on set WWD: You are certainly not the first model who’s new rodeo drive boutique was when i’m doing a photo shoot. and Jack is this taken up with a musician. Why do you think this is well-timed to Los Angeles’ balmy brilliant, unbelievably talented man so there such a common pairing? weather. Joy Bryant, eva Mendes, lily was a lot of fear of like, “What if i play him K.E.: the two worlds cross paths. ever since i’ve Collins and Amber Valletta nearly floated this song and he looks at me and says ‘that’s been a model, i’ve always been surrounded by into the store — designed to look like a street really good honey. stick to the day job.’” but musicians, though i don’t know what that says with shops on either side — dressed in the once i got over that, he was beyond supportive. about musicians. i guess there just is that s Karen elson arthy c

house’s signature colorful open-weave knits. model-musician cliché, and Jack and i fell c even Bryant’s husband, stuntman , WWD: are you worried your modeling career will prevent for it. nevertheless, it wasn’t a contrived thing. it just m

David Pope ke mI was feeling the change of seasons, donning a your album from being taken seriously? happened. What can i say? f pink Missoni cardigan. “i have to hand it to O you,” Angie Harmon said. “My husband [former nFL-er Jason sehorn] would never put that on, urtesy but you make it look manly.” cO The meal, served at colorful round enmare

tables in the back of the store, was k olya

a family-style affair during which ens Thompson Margherita Missoni and Jennifer Missoni P presided over the “kids’” tables. They were eI chner; teve

joined by nicole Richie, P.C. Valmorbida, lily Collins o s

and kid-at-heart Mario Testino, who was one of the first to jump by onto a nearby couch-bed, where he ate his dessert. n ls O e

l l l new Yorkers too were rejoicing over the arrival of spring weather on Thursday, which made the celebration at Barneys are new York for Duro olowu’s colorful, printed collection all the more etty Images; timely. Olowu’s wife, Thelma golden, and Amanda Brooks hosted M g allay/ the luncheon for ladies including Jeanne greenberg Rohatyn, olya g Thompson, Deborah Roberts, and Bethann Hardison. Before sitting en down, several in attendance took the opportunity to try on some harley

Joey Campanaro, nur Khan and Paul sevigny. c Joey Campanaro, nur Khan and Paul sevigny. of Olowu’s bright dresses and patterned tops. But susan Fales Hill, a self-diagnosed shopaholic, was doing her best to restrain herself. K

“if you see me buying something, rip it out of my hands,” she said. reMeMber those fashion WeeK bashes in think my food is very pretentious at all,” campanaro says. endes by The social’s sobriety lasted only through the shrimp salad february at new hot spot Kenmare? Well, forget ’em. that’s partly why Khan thinks it will work in lower m and chocolate soufflé. Then she was heard telling a friend, When Kenmare opens officially tonight, it will not be soho, where both he and sevigny live. “i know this “Mama needs a new pair of shoes.” for the party people. instead, management is building its neighborhood and what works down here,” he says. in reputation as a serious restaurant. Which is only notable fact, Khan had wanted to open Kenmare, which is in Thelma because it’s being run by nur Khan and Paul sevigny, two the space formerly occupied by civetta, since 2006, but

night owls best known as the men behind the rose bar couldn’t get his hands on the lease. uckner/ wI reImage; golden b in Duro and beatrice inn, respectively. sevigny, too, long had wanted to run an eatery. “a olowu. but there are a few things working in their favor: restaurant was always much more a dream of mine than mI chael first, their partnership in Kenmare with lou ceruzzi, DJing or nightlife,” he says, pointing out that he tried to by s

a co-owner of the acclaimed sfoglia, and second, the merge the two pursuits. “contrary to popular belief, we I n

appointment of chef Joey campanaro, whose talents kept did serve food at the beatrice. agathe snow [artist and O

his previous employers, little owl and Market table, widow of Dash snow] was our head chef.” mI ss

consistently booked. Khan and sevigny hope the toque it appears Kenmare is only the beginning for the duo. ne; can help transform their project into an equally, if not sevigny says the two plan to open more restaurants, more, profitable neighborhood joint. “Joey was the first nightclubs and even hotels. “We have a very exciting

person we wanted,” says Khan, sitting in a back booth one space we’re working on right now,” he adds. “hopefully Iannacc O

afternoon. “We’re just so excited [he’s on board]. i think within a month or two it’s going to be open, and people mas O h

that statement alone says how serious we are about being will forget the beatrice ever existed.” t

a restaurant.” (Khan does seem serious enough about for now, there are signs the owners are sticking to by O Kenmare’s culinary rep. sevigny’s failure to show up for the their guns when it comes to establishing Kenmare as a t interview despite repeated calls and texts doesn’t bode as restaurant first. that downstairs space, where Daphne well for his intentions, though he says he wasn’t told about Guinness, Jefferson hack and sevigny’s sister, chloë, let ks ph O OO the meeting. he was reached via phone the following day.) loose during fashion week? it won’t be open for business Amber VallettaValletta the menu at Kenmare will include dishes such as gravy until the upstairs is running smoothly. and JoyJoy Bryant,Bryant, and br

meatball sliders, basil gnocchi with short rib ragout and “We don’t want anybody to be distracted,” Khan says. wu

both in Missoni. O

sea scallops with strawberry and spinach salad. “i don’t — Emily Holt Ol WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 5 WWD.COM J.C. Penney, Olympian Liukin Launch Line Grano Buys Samuelsohn By Jean E. Palmieri By Marcy Medina tie-dyed hoodies and other contempo- rary trends downsized for girls that will SamueLSohn LTd., The monTReaL- J.C. Penney Co. InC. and Cham- incorporate the S-shield and more sub- based tailored clothing brand, has been sold pion olympic gymnast nastia Liukin tle motifs. In fact, there’s not a trace of to Grano Retail Investments, an investment are going for the gold with a full life- red in the first delivery, which is mostly and advisory company headed by Stephen style collection for girls ages eight to black, silver and pink. The line will be Granovsky. Terms were not disclosed, but fi- 12, called Supergirl by nastia. manufactured by California-based li- nancing was provided by BdC, Canada’s busi- The line, which will retail at between censee Jerry Leigh Inc., known for its ness development bank. $20 and $38, hits stores July 20 for the fashion-forward hoodies and T-shirts. Granovsky, Grano’s founder and chief execu- back-to-school season. It includes knit Penney’s already features a stable tive officer, will become ceo of Samuelsohn, an dresses with detachable necklaces, tu- of exclusives with California brands 87-year-old family-owned business. Twin broth- nics, tops, pants and leggings, as well as in its kids’ department, such as Rusty, ers michael and Richard Samuelsohn, grand- a dance and fleece activewear collection. Vans, Levi’s and Skechers, as well as sons of the founder, will exit the company. For Penney’s, it also represents a re-en- Ralph Lauren’s american Living. But Grano’s plan is to significantly enhance the try into the girls’ activewear category. apart from skate brand RS by Sheckler, visibility of the business, expand distribution Supergirl by nastia is a three-year designed by skating champion Ryan and add product classifications. The firm pro- exclusive partnership among the retail- Sheckler, there was no other personal- duces private label suits for Paul Stuart and er, Liukin and Warner Bros. Consumer ity-based brand until now. harry Rosen and sells its own Samuelsohn- Products, which owns the Superhero “We know there is always an emotion- label goods to 250 upscale specialty stores in property. It will take up prominent real al connection between girls and a person- the u.S. and Canada. estate in Penney’s girls’ and activewear ality like nastia, as well as an icon like Looks from “Speaking both as a customer and an ob- departments, with placement by the Supergirl,” said Syndi Stark, Penney’s Supergirl by server, Samuelsohn is the best maker of men’s aisles, as well as a hot spot in the cen- divisional vice president and divisional Nastia. tailored clothing in north america,” Granovsky ter of the department showcasing looks merchandise manager of girls’ apparel. told WWd in an exclusive interview revealing and images of Liukin. Liukin, 20, was the 2008 olympic the deal. “It’s second to none, but it flies below “We’ve seen a big trend towards ac- all around gold medalist and won a the radar screen. We tivewear in our boys’ department, and total of five medals in Beijing. She has to promoting the line with personal ap- believe we can trans- Stephen this is a natural complement to that — an been a hands-on partner, meeting with pearances and interactive marketing, form this from a great Granovsky ‘actionista’ collection with a real style Penney’s design team regularly to share such as contests via social media. producer to a great quotient,” said Clark mcnaught, Penney’s her ideas, many of which she gleans Penney’s and Warner Bros. declined brand. There’s enor- senior vice president and general mer- from the girls with whom she trains. to give sales projections. mous potential here.” chandise manager for children’s apparel. “Being comfortable and stylish is al- “This collection is a first for us in Step one is the for- “We’re not slapping a shield on a T-shirt. ways my goal, and I get so much inspi- that it’s more fashion-oriented and it’s mation of a new senior We’re trying to make it more relevant to ration from the younger kids, what they also more than just a six- to eight-week management team. what’s happening in the market.” wear, what colors they like,” Liukin said. output driven by a movie or television The first appointment The Supergirl by nastia collection She has taken a break from compet- show,” said Warner Bros. Consumer is Paolo Torello-Viera, will feature burnout and foil T-shirts, ing this year and plans to devote herself Products president Brad Globe. former chief operat- ing officer and execu- tive vice president of Brioni Retail u.S., OBITUARY who has been named chief operating officer of Samuelsohn. he also has been executive vice pres- WWD British Retailer Joseph Ettedgui, 74 ident of the ermenegildo Zegna Group. Within 30 Men’s By Samantha Conti and Nina Jones came a fashionable haunt where socialites, celebrities and days, Granovsky said, he shoppers would happily while away the afternoon. will name a vice president of LONDON — Services were held here over the weekend for “he was one of the best retailers of our generation — and manufacturing and a sales and marketing execu- Joseph ettedgui, founder of the eponymous chain of mul- brilliant at merchandising and laying out shops,” said Paul tive with “deep men’s wear experience.” tibrand designer boutiques, a talented merchant and a Smith, a longtime friend. The designer recalled meeting up “The brand hasn’t had the merchandising, retail visionary who helped whet the British appetite for with ettedgui in Japan in the mid-eighties and asking him sales and marketing support that it needs,” he european designer labels. to check out a Paul Smith shop that was set to open soon. added. “If we can build upon that foundation, ettedgui died Thursday at age 74 of pancreatic cancer in “he told me he didn’t like the way it looked — and then he we can double or triple the size of the busi- a London hospital, according to his younger brother, maurice completely remerchandised it. We worked on it until about ness in the next five years.” The volume of the ettedgui, with whom he founded the Joseph brand. 2 a.m.,” recalled Smith. privately held company was not disclosed. “We were the three musketeers,” said ettedgui, referring neil Prosser, who opened the Joseph store in manchester The company’s manufacturing facilities in to Joseph — the eldest — and their brother, Franklin. “We 15 years ago, remembered ettedgui “in his white suit, with montreal will be retained, Granovsky said, al- worked together all our lives. I’ll remember Joseph for his a cigar dangling from his mouth, touching and feeling the though the Samuelsohn family will continue kindness, his generosity and his vision. he could see things product.” Prosser added ettedgui “adored women and knew to own the factory building. Grano has signed before anyone else. he was a remarkable man.” what kind of clothing they wanted.” a long-term lease for the space and will con- The impish, bespectacled and eva Jiricna, the London-based tinue to produce all the product there. “It’s ever-chic ettedgui, who was never Czech architect who worked closely a great facility,” Granovsky said. “There’s a without a cigar dangling from his with ettedgui on both stores and home price point in premium men’s wear where do- lips or stuck between his fingers, was projects, said, “his clothes completely mestic skill is a real advantage. and there’s a born in Casablanca, morocco, on Feb. changed London. he designed clothes real magic in the culture of that building.” 22, 1936, to parents who ran a dress for women who were not absolutely Samuelsohn produces suits that retail for fabric shop. he moved to London perfect, and they weren’t expensive — $1,200 on average, with some models selling for in the late Fifties, where he began they were affordable. I still wear his $1,600 to $1,700, placing it at the “opening price his career as a hairdresser on The jackets and trousers from the 1980s. point of the premium market. The days of the King’s Road. “he had the perfect eye for every- $2,000 to $4,000 suit are gone,” he said. “There’s In the early Seventies, he started thing aesthetic. he always wanted to been a permanent change in the customers’ per- selling brands, including Kenzo, from be an architect, and his father wanted ception of value and Samuelsohn is in a position the basement of the salon. he opened him to be an accountant. he had a to capitalize on the recessionary environment.” the first Joseph boutique in 1972, and fantastic imagination, and he was the Granovsky said he plans to update the “fash- over the years, stocked more designer most generous person to everybody,” ion point of view” of the company’s offerings — labels, including John Galliano, Rifat she added. “They’re not where they need to be” — and expand ozbek and azzedine alaïa, who be- In 2005, ettedgui sold the Joseph distribution. “We want to make it available in more came a close friend. brand to onward Kashiyama for about places,” he said. “But we will be very careful.” “I have just lost a member of my $258 million, in a sale that netted him additionally, there’s a “huge opportunity in family,” said alaïa. “he was there right and his brother Franklin more than additional product categories such as furnish- from the beginning of my career in the $37 million. Today, there are 34 free- ings and complementary sportswear,” he said. early eighties and was one of the first standing Joseph stores worldwide. Before founding Grano Retail Investments buyers I ever worked with.” Later that year, he stepped down as with Lawrence Pollack in 2007, Granovsky was In the eighties, as major design- executive chairman of Joseph to dedi- president of Karabus management, a retail con- ers began opening their own stand-alone stores, ettedgui cate his energies to Connolly, the London fashion and luxury sulting business, for 12 years. Prior to that, he launched a line of elegant classics under the Joseph label, accessories retailer he purchased in the late nineties. worked in his family’s men’s retail business in including knitwear, denim and those famous stretch, boot- ettedgui opened a second store for Connolly — where his Canada. Grano focuses on small to midsize ac- cut trousers stylish London girls would snap up in every wife, Isabel, was creative director — on London’s Conduit quisitions in retail, wholesale and manufactur- color. By 1997, ettedgui was selling up to 2,000 pairs of the Street in 1999, designed by andrée Putman. however, the ing. Its other acquisitions include Pindoff Record trousers each week out of his five London stores. at the store shut late last year, and the company is officially listed Sales and deP, music industry companies, and time, he told WWd the collection was designed to provide at dormant or nontrading. Storeforce Solutions Inc., a software company. a middle path between mass market and designer clothing. maurice ettedgui said the family remains undecided Samuelsohn was founded in 1923 by “There is very little available in the middle, and that is what about the future of Connolly. “We are not thinking about it Lesser Samuelsohn, a clothing designer from we do,” he said. right now,” he said. Rochester, n.y., who had emigrated to Canada ettedgui was also the first retailer to open an in-store Joseph ettedgui is survived by his wife, Isabel; daughter, in 1912. michael and Richard Samuelsohn have restaurant: his Joe’s Café in South Kensington quickly be- Gigi; sons Peter and Paul, and his two brothers. been involved in the business since the Sixties. 6 WWD, monDay, march 22, 2010

Versace Rodarte

Chris Benz Hermès Endless Gloves Great gloves were one of the strongest accessories trends to emerge from the fall runways, and they turned up in a comprehensive range of materials and details. — Roxanne Robinson-Escriout and Shoshanna Fischhoff

Donna Karan WWD, monDay, march 22, 2010 7 WWD.COM

Givenchy

Ralph Lauren

Rag & Bone

Louis Vuitton

Derek Lam mitra obert r

aitre an D m

annaccone, Dominique i homas t iannoni, g

iovanni g Feugere, sen, stephane K ric e Kyle

Yves Saint Laurent Max Mara photos by 8 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Bigger Bra Sizes Bolster Sales By Karyn Monget figure brands entered the U.s. with a variety of Harlequin by fashion looks and embellishments. they include Bra sizes in the U.s. are larger than Panaches’ Prima Donna, Marie Jo, eveden, Freya, anita, ever as manufacturers and retailers try to accom- sexy full-figure elomi, Fauve, aviana, Panache, Cleo, harlequin, modate the rising number of full-figure women. bandeau bra Conturelle, enell and lunaire. even heritage bra the median size a decade ago was 36C. now and briefs. brands that are known mainly for average-size bras, there is demand for DD, DDD and g cups, and bra such as Chantelle, empreinte, lise Charmel, le makers are reaching even higher with a K cup. Mystere, and Wacoal and its young, contemporary the business impact of full-figure bras and re- b. tempted brand, have introduced larger cup sizes lated undergarments is substantial. retail sales of in the DD and g cup range over the past year. full-figure bras from 2008 to 2009 rose 3.3 percent, their target is a U.s. population where more to $2.15 billion, and the number of bras sold in the than 65 percent of adults are overweight or obese, category gained 7.4 percent to 158.8 million units, with almost 31 percent of adults — more than according to research firm nPD group. Overall 61 million people — meeting criteria for obesity sales of bras last year increased 1.1 percent and with a body mass index (BMi) greater than 30. accounted for $5.8 billion of the total $10.67 billion that represents a 5-foot, 5-inch woman weighing innerwear business. 180 pounds. a BMi between 18.5 and 25 is consid- several factors are turning a traditional niche ered healthy. that’s equivalent to a 5-foot 5-inch area into a flourishing category. the obesity epi- woman weighing 140 pounds. about one-third of demic has generated a base of consumers that is americans fall into that healthy category, and ap- demanding a wider choice of basic, fashion and proximately one-third are classified as overweight, specialty product. with a BMi of between 26 and 30. the national Oprah Winfrey, whose power to make a best- institutes of health attributes the rise of obesity seller, spawn trends and influence public opinion to environmental, social, economic and behavioral is unrivaled, introduced Bra Fit interventions, factors, including a more sedentary culture and in- explaining proper fitting, to millions of viewers appropriate diet. on her television show. she feels so strongly about the highest volume full-figure innerwear brand the subject that Bra Fit tips for full figures are in the U.s. is Just My size, owned by hanesbrands featured on oprah.com with the tagline, “ladies, inc., which rang up estimated retail sales in excess rise to the Occasion.” of $700 million last year. “it was definitely a wakeup moment for women the overall plus-size apparel market generated when Oprah did her Bra Fit interventions,” said retail sales of $17.89 billion in 2009 compared with Maureen stabnau, senior vice president of mer- $18.32 billion the previous year, according to nPD chandising at barenecessities.com. “Oprah is the group. the plus-size market fared slightly better Prima champion of bra fitting and full-figure bras.” than average-size apparel with a decline of 2.3 Donna’s Celebrities such as Mo’nique, this year’s percent versus 4.9 percent of the total women’s ap- deep plunge Oscar winner for best supporting actress, and her parel market. full-figure “Precious” co-star, gabourey sidibe, have raised the full-figure bra business has been robust in push-up bra. the profile of full-figure women. a challenging economic climate. On the runway, Marc Jacobs’ fall 2010 louis linda lore, president of Frederick’s of Vuitton ready-to-wear show featured fleshy models hollywood group inc, said full-figure bra and cor- with breasts spilling out from wool corsets and hips set sales have grown 10 percent over the past sev- accentuated by full midlength skirts. eral years. this combination of girth and glitz in the over- “Women want to look sexy no matter what size all full-figure segment — underscored by retail they are,” she said. “Part of the [full-figure bra] sales increases of 10 to 25 percent over the past growth has come from women who have had breast year — is adding a level of acceptance to what is enhancements, as well as those who have natural considered attractive, fashionable and sexy. bustiness. they range from women in their late Manufacturers and retailers are trying to keep 20’s and early 30’s to 40 and 50-year-olds who want up with demand as the full-figure consumer base fashion.” Frederick’s offers bras up to an F cup. builds, industry executives said. More offerings stephanie sobel, president of onestopplus. have been available since Winfrey took g cups out com, a division of redcats Usa and parent PPr of the closet, but product launches are not keep- which owns gucci group, said: “For the specific ing up with the full-figure consumer’s appetite for onestopplus.com site, we have grown the customer fashion, color, innovation and styling. e-mail file [consumer base] over 60 percent against “the whole culture has come to see fuller last year and over 100 percent over the prior year, figures as a different level of attractiveness,” for an average of 80 percent file growth per year said renee Fraser, a consumer psychologist and over the last two years...this line of business has an adjunct professor of communications at the untapped potential because this consumer wants University of southern California’s annenberg more. Because of that we are happy to host site school of Communications. “the Dove soap ads launches for new brands.” three years ago [depicting full-figure women in Onestopplus.com launched its proprietary underwear] were a pivotal turning point in adver- brand, Comfort Choice, in 2008 with bra cup sizes tising, which promoted beauty from the inside out going up to an i cup. with all body types.” Frederick’s of Dan sakrowitz, vice president of marketing Manufacturers and retailers are careful how Hollywood’s full-figure at barenecessities.com, estimated the company’s they market and merchandise full-figure products Corset Bra. plus-size business “has grown from roughly 20 per- because of the sensitive nature of how the mes- cent in three years to about 25 percent.” sage is perceived among large-size customers who he said best-selling bra sizes have changed dra- want the same colors, embellishments and styles matically since 2002, mainly in the D cup range, as average-size women. as a result, the category such as 36D, which is the second best-selling in intimates is often a confusing mix of terms such bra and was in the sixth slot in 2002, and 32DD, as full-figure, full-busted, full-fitted, DD plus, or which moved up 12 positions from the 18th spot. plus size. Barenecessities offers bras up to an h cup. Overall, the full-figure category is identified as Carrie Klein, senior vice president of mer- women who wear a dress size 16 or larger, com- chandising at plus size chain lane Bryant, said pared with a size 14 a decade ago. it is comprised the retailer, which carries bras up to an h cup, of women — ranging from teenagers to senior citi- three weeks ago rolled out its t-shirt Bra. it comes zens — whose bra band and cup size generally start in fashion colors and prints and is in 775 doors. at a 36DD or 38C and goes to a 58C, 46K or larger. “Based on the success of the t-shirt Bra, we are in the seventies and eighties, the median bra very interested in maximizing with added styles size in the U.s. was 34B, industry executives said. it and related product,” she said. grew to 36C in the nineties and the median size has We’ve sold a ton of [full figure] bras, 40,000 reached 36DD over the past several years. Band across seven stores in 2009,” said susan nethero, size defines a clear distinction between a busty chief executive officer of intimacy, a nine-unit spe- woman with an average figure who wears a 28-to- cialty chain that offers bras up to a K cup. “Full- 34-inch band but is a g cup, and a plus-size woman figure bras have sold far faster and larger than who may not have large breasts, but whose band average-size bras. Full-busted sales have grown size ranges from 36 and larger and is a C or D cup. by at least 10 percent over the past year, and 74 long-established full-figure bra brands percent of my bra business is now with cup sizes such as Playtex, Bali, goddess, Fantasie and larger than DD.” glamourize continue to add styles, colors and regarding new full-figure product launches, sizes to assortments. nethero said, “i wish there were more. We are not in the last five to 10 years, a new crop of full- getting enough new product.” WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Eyewear Makers Go Retro at Mido Fair By Kerry Olsen frames based on a minimal Thirties rectangular style, as well as two circular styles in metal. Other special editions included Ermenegildo MILAN — The eyewear sector showcased a strong sense of nostalgia as vintage Zegna’s centennial edition sunglasses, a rose gold aviator engraved trends dominated the Mido trade show. with the dates of the house’s 100-year anniversary. Although there were glimpses of a possible recovery in the fourth quarter, Luxottica-owned Persol celebrated the 50th anniversary of the show’s organizer, ANFAO, or the Italian Optical Goods Manufacturers’ Federico Fellini’s film, “La Dolce Vita,” with two Sixties-inspired Association, said Italian eyewear production dropped 13.3 percent last acetate styles. In a first for Luxottica at Mido, the group dedicated year compared with 2008 to almost 2.3 million euros, or $3.1 million at its entire exhibition space to Persol, a move made at the Silmo eye- current exchange. wear trade show in Paris in 2008. The turmoil appears to be taking its toll. Several sources said eye- Fabio d’Angelantonio, chief marketing officer for Luxottica Group, said wear manufacturer Visibilia SpA was in the process of liquidating. the move was not a shift in company strategy, but “to celebrate a key iconic Visibilia executives couldn’t be reached for comment. brand in our eyewear portfolio that is Italian and the core values of Made The Venice-based company was the licensee for Blumarine, in Italy and craftsmanship.” Trussardi, Mandarina Duck, Emanuel Ungaro, Jeckerson and Laura The rest of the lineup, which includes the luxury brands Prada, Dolce Biagiotti. Speculation about the firm spurred several new licensing & Gabbana and Burberry, was available to view on request. deals that were announced during the fair. Safilo’s booth was branded solely by its house line Carrera and show- Italian licensing firm De Rigo Vision SpA will produce eyewear cased its new, lightweight carbon fiber styles — with the remainder of for Blufin brands Blumarine and Blugirl through 2015. Safilo’s licensee portfolio, including Dior, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and “With Visibilia, we worked profitably for a long period, but given its Diesel, available for viewing on request. difficult economic situation we…decided on De Rigo Vision, who is the Giorgio Armani featured shades that had a hippie feel with ideal partner in order to upgrade the international distribution of our a Sixties psychedelic color palette. Diesel sunglasses presented eyewear brands,” said Gianguido Tarabini, Blufin chief executive officer. playful acetate frames in brilliant turquoise, yellow and pink; The new collections will hit stores in November and join a De Rigo Prada’s Postcard series offered neon hues, and Nike unveiled a Vision portfolio that includes Celine, Chopard, Ermenegildo Zegna, Eyewear from line of Seventies-inspired sporty shades dubbed “vintage vision” in Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier, among others. Ermenegildo a retro color palette. Japan-based Charmant Group said it paired with Trussardi to Zegna and Historic milliner Borsalino presented a new line of sun- produce and distribute eyewear beginning in spring 2011. The deal John Galliano. glasses and opticals in a license deal with Treviso, Italy-based means the group will add its first luxury lines — Tru Trussardi and Brands O.I. The men’s and women’s line features Seventies- Trussardi 1911 — to existing collaborations with Esprit, Elle, Puma inspired oversize and vintage styles finished in titanium and and Lacoste. molded acetate. In other licensing developments at the fair, which ended its three- Other entries included Rock & Republic’s chunky frames, typ- day run on March 7 at the Fiera Milano pavilions, U.S. manufacturer ifying a general trend for retro shapes in tone-on-tone acetate. Marchon revealed that Diane von Furstenberg’s eyewear collec- Gucci showcased oversize Sixties styles and frames with his- tion would launch in Europe at Mido’s 2011 edition following an torical bamboo detailing, and Pucci offered its stylish take on ar- American debut this month at Vision Expo East. chived prints. Missoni sunglasses produced by Allison featured a “We could very well be a leader in a market that is histori- retro reading chain on Seventies-inspired marbled acetate. cally European,” said Claudio Gottardi, president of Marchon “We reduced prices by 20 percent ahead of our competitors and and ceo of Marchon International. mirroring those made in the fashion arena,” said Antonio Bortuzzo, Marcolin Group is to launch Swarovski sunglasses in ceo of Allison. “Overall, the market wants better quality at the same January 2011 followed by prescription frames after sign- level of price.” ing a deal in July. “When others were cost cutting, we invested in new brands and extended our portfolio to reach different customer targets,” said Maurizio Marcolin, style and licensing officer at Marcolin Group. “Before the crisis hit in 2009, we signed five new brands: Dsquared2, Tod’s, Hogan, John Galliano and Swarovski.” John Galliano’s first collection unveiled at the fair comprises 18 sunglasses styles — 11 women’s and seven men’s — that blend old- school glamour with sleek silhouettes. Galliano’s signature Gazette print is featured on the women’s frames, alongside styles inspired by flamenco dancers. For men, inspi- ration is drawn from the Sixties’ Rat Pack, evidenced in slim lower metal frames, with temples in contrasting colors and tinted lenses. Opticals are set to follow next year. Also at Marcolin, Dsquared2 presented its first optical collection after a successful shades launch last year. Nineteen preppy styles, including retro cat-eye frames, were featured alongside revisited aviator shades with bulky, acetate fronts. Tom Ford unveiled a one-off project comprising four special edition men’s optical Girard-Perregaux Revs Up Retail in U.S. By Sophia Chabbott SWISS WATCHMAkER GIRARD-PERREGAUx is staking a claim in the U.S. The brand, which was founded in 1791, is opening its first U.S. store next month at 701 Madison Avenue, at 63rd Street, in Manhattan. “New York is very important to us,” chief executive officer Gino Macaluso said of the ericksen 900-square-foot space. “It’s one of the five cities

kyle in which it’s absolutely necessary to be.” Designed by architect Ermanno Previdi, the store is lined with wenge wood walls that photo by Girard-Perregaux’s Madison Avenue store. feature small steel and glass cases to display product and is crowned with several architec- tural chandeliers that offer a bold distinction of light to the dark space. A watchmaker will be present and visible to customers. The space also includes private selling rooms for those that want a discreet shopping experience. Girard-Perregaux — owned by Swiss timepiece firm Sowind Group, which also owns JeanRichard — is known for making complex movements such as tourbillon, power reserve and chronograph in-house. key pieces that will be sold in the New York store include the 1966 collection, Vintage 1945 and the Cat’s Eye for women. Prices range from $10,000 to $500,000. The brand has 12 stand-alone boutiques around the world, including units in Gstaad, Switzerland; Beijing, and Beirut, Lebanon. The firm recently opened a store in Hong kong and there are plans to bow a Tokyo store in 2012. The company is looking to launch a store in Los Angeles in the next few years. The line is sold in 40 wholesale accounts across the U.S. including Cellini and Tourneau to make a total of 500 outlets worldwide. “It’s more and more important,” Macaluso said of opening proprietary shops. “We are not a simple brand because we produce very sophisticated items. It’s necessary to have embassy. It’s a way to communicate better.” 10 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 WWD.COM NRF Unites With EBay Strong Lineup Set for Beauty Summit To Battle Retail Crimes By Kristi Ellis BEAUTY BEAT WASHINGTON — The National Retail Federation and By Pete Born her first fragrance, and Mindy Grossman, ceo of HSN eBay, long at odds over the scope of legislation cracking Inc., who is pioneering new techniques for selling fra- down on organized retail crime, are changing course Despite the tenaciousness of the global grance via TV. and forging a strategic alliance to go after the bad guys. recession, the WWD Beauty CEO Summit will get After the lunch break, Paco Underhill, founding Retailers, who lose an estimated $30 billion a year in under way in Palm Beach, Fla., on May 10 with an un- president of Envirosell and a global expert on retail- organized retail crime theft, according to the Federal usually rich roster of top executive speaking talent. ing, will give a presentation. He will be followed by a Bureau of Investigation, are hopeful the alliance will The theme of this summit, the eighth in succession, panel discussion led by Virginia C. Drosos, president lead to a dramatic reduction in criminal activity, either is A Fresh Start, and the speeches have been orga- of Global Female Beauty at P&G. Her group will tackle through legislation or new joint strategies. nized in groups forming phases of renewal — reboot/ the subject of communicating with the consumer in the In an NRF survey conducted last year, 92 percent of reframe, innovate/incubate, understand/engage and digital age. Kevin Kells, national director of Consumer retailers said they were “victimized” by criminal gangs evolve/expand. Packaged Goods at Google Inc., and Fred Mossler of and 73 percent reported an increase in the level of re- The program will kick off Monday evening with Zappos.com will be on that panel. tail crime activity. Fabrizio Freda, president and chief executive officer The evening address will be given by Mikhail “This gives us an opportunity to work in partnership, of the Estée Lauder Cos. The summit will shift into Kusnirovich, founder and chairman of Bosco di Ciliegi, versus at odds, with eBay, which is obviously a very impor- high gear Tuesday morning with a speech by Edward which owns Articoli Gum and the Articoli-Vesna me- tant player in online marketplaces,” said Joe La Rocca, D. Shirley, vice chair of Global Beauty & Grooming at gastores — two of Moscow’s top fragrance and luxury senior adviser of asset protection for the NRF. “Now, rath- Procter & Gamble Co. accessories retailers. In 2004, the company bought a er than working independently with each party…we can Other morning keynote speakers will include controlling stake in Gum, the historic department store work together [with law enforcement] and collaborate on Carmen R. Bauza, vice president of beauty at Wal- on Red Square. sharing information and go after criminal enterprises.” Mart Stores Inc.; François-Xavier Fenart, president The program will open Wednesday morning with As part of the partnership, which is being unveiled of L’Oréal Brazil, and Muriel Gonzalez, executive an address by Lyn P. Kirby, president and ceo of Ulta today, the retail trade and lobbying group and the vice president and general merchandise manager of Salon, Cosmetics & Fragrance Inc. She will be followed online marketplace will enhance their information- Macy’s Inc. by a Polish specialty store retailer, Wojciech Inglot, sharing in organized retail crime investigations, set Philip Shearer, ceo of the Paris-based Clarins president of Inglot, an international chain. A perspec- up working groups to develop strategies for targeting Group, will give his keynote, then turn the stage tive from India will be provided by Gaurav Mahajan, crimes, identify technologies to assist law enforcement over to a group of product innovators. These will in- chief operating officer of Trent Ltd. in tracking the criminal gangs, strengthen collaboration clude Armand de Villoutreys, vice president of Fine One of the most talked-about developments of the with the FBI and work closer on legislative proposals Fragrance Worldwide at Firmenich Inc., and Marcia last two years was the advent of drugstore chains en- that have divided them in the past. Kilgore, founder and creative director of Soap & Glory tering prestige beauty retailing. The subject will be ex- and FitFlop, who created brands for different chan- plored by the three top players: Shelley J. Rozenwald, nels in different product worlds. These leaders will be president of Murale at Shoppers Drug Mart Corp.; This gives us an opportunity joined by Ido Leffler, co-founder and chief carrot lover Mike Bloom, senior vice president of CVS Caremark of Yes To Inc. Corp., and Joseph C. Magnacca, senior vice president “to work in partnership, versus at The final session of the morning will be a panel and chief merchandising officer of Duane Reade Inc. discussion aimed squarely at ground-breaking innova- The summit will conclude with a talk by Chris tions within the fragrance category. A discussion will Sanderson, strategy and insight director of The Future odds, with eBay, which is obviously be led by Steve Stoute, chairman and lead investor of Laboratory, and a forecast of what comes next by Carol’s Daughter; recording superstar Mary J Blige, Karen Grant, senior beauty industry analyst at The a very important player in online who, as an investor in Carol’s Daughter, is launching NPD Group Inc. marketplaces. — Joe La Rocca,” National Retail Federation Industry Meets on Revitalizing Garment Center “Through this partnership, NRF and eBay are putting criminals on notice that they will no longer be able to steal By Rosemary Feitelberg for the better.” from retailers and abuse the online marketplace for profit,” Moderator Deborah Martin, the Design Trust’s ex- said Paul Jones, global director of asset protection at eBay. With the Garment Center’s rezoning still ecutive director, noted the existing zoning that was La Rocca said the biggest challenge retailers faced in a state of flux, tenants and other vested parties gath- first put into place in 1987 was supposed to secure 50 in the past in trying to work with eBay was the lack of ered at Yeohlee Teng’s showroom Thursday night to percent of the neighborhood’s space for apparel pro- receptivity in taking direct queries from merchants discuss the neighborhood’s inevitable reinvention. duction, but “that was never really enforced for vari- about an investigation that was taking place. Billed as “Urban Fabric: ous reasons.” “The policy [on the part of eBay] historically was, ‘Call Creation in the City,” the dis- A rendering Collins and his fellow pan- law enforcement and then we’ll deal with you,’” he said. cussion was an offshoot of of the new elists — Teng, urban designer The alliance with eBay is designed to close that commu- the “Made in Midtown” study, Fashion 26 Ken Greenberg, Newmark nication and cooperation gap, he said, and intensify the col- an ongoing collaboration be- hotel. Knight Frank executive man- laborative efforts to track down criminal operations. tween the Council of Fashion aging director Eric Gural and The retail industry has addressed the growing prob- Designers of America and Vogue contributing editor and lem of organized crime on several fronts. It launched the Design Trust for Public landscape architect Miranda a collaborative database called the Law Enforcement Space. Once that research is Brooks — discussed a variety Retail Partnership Network, or LERPnet, in 2007 that complete at the end of April, of ideas including encourag- connects retailers with each other and law enforce- the parties aim to have a bet- ing major designers to return ment officials sharing statistics on suspected thieves ter understanding of how inte- some manufacturing to New and criminal activity. It also started the Coalition gral the Garment Center is to York, initiating a Made in New Against Organized Retail Crime that includes members the city and how its strengths York program, educating shop- such as Target Corp., Macy’s Inc., Wal-Mart Stores Inc., might be best utilized to se- pers about the upsides of lo- the NRF and the mass merchant-based Retail Industry cure its future. cally made goods and using ar- Leaders Association. One of the panelists, chitecture to attract visitors. To combat the increase in sales of stolen property on Parsons The New School “Consumers need to know its Web site, eBay created the Partnering With Retailers for Design’s dean of fashion, that when they buy clothes Offensively Against Crime and Theft, or PROACT, pro- Simon Collins, provided the that are cheap, it’s cheap be- gram in 2008. The company said it helped in the arrest surest sign of confidence by cause it came off someone’s of 237 people for selling stolen merchandise in 2008 and revealing all of his 1,400 fash- back. There is no appreciation assisted law enforcement in some 7,400 stolen property ion students will be based in this country for Made in investigations. Major retailers have signed on to take in the neighborhood as of America, and that’s the bottom part in PROACT and pledged to work with eBay in September. Half of them line,” Teng said. cracking down on the sale of stolen merchandise. are attending classes on the Gural questioned why ten- Despite those inroads, retailers and eBay were still Greenwich Village campus, ants could not move a few at loggerheads over several legislative proposals, differ- which will continue to be used blocks west or south, to make ences La Rocca said he hopes will be lessened by the by other New School students. way for “hip and cool” desti- new alliance. There are three pending bills in the House Extending its existing Seventh nations. While not addressed and one pending in the Senate that confront criminal ac- Avenue location, Parsons has Thursday, Wyndham will open tivity, from strengthening the federal criminal code and leased 46,000 square feet at Fashion 26, a 280-room, four- increasing resources for law enforcement to creating 218-232 West 40th Street at star hotel with an assortment new civil fines and imposing policies and information- what is commonly known as of fashion tie-ins at 152 West sharing requirements on online auction sites and in flea the Katherine Gibbs building, 26th Street April 5. markets and pawn shops that are often used to fence the though the two schools have Gural emphasized the area’s stolen goods. no affiliation. The School of potential for retail develop- EBay voiced strong opposition to the legislative pro- Fashion is already using one ment. “There is all this shop- posals that targeted online marketplaces and imposed of its designated four floors ping going on in Times Square new restrictions on them, rather than focusing on the and the others will be occu- — it’s the second-highest real criminals themselves. La Rocca said the alliance will pied next semester. estate in the city — and it’s not negate the need for legislation and could provide In response to a question about the need for interven- only five blocks away,” he said. “No one comes below momentum for further cooperation between eBay and tion to avoid urban Darwinism, Collins said: “We believe 42nd Street because no one has a reason to. We have to retailers in finding a compromise. very strongly in change, but designed change so that it is give them a reason to.” WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD Fidler and Herz IS HE OR ISN’T HE?: The rumor mill grinds on. It seems W magazine are, like, these things outside that get wet,” she said. “They’re like will be getting an editor in chief any minute now, and it will, in all roadkill.” The style issue hits newsstands today. — Amy Wicks likelihood, be Stefano Tonchi — depending on whom you ask. One Tapped at Bally highly placed source inside The New York Times confirmed Tonchi OK AT OK: Neal Boulton, former editor in chief of Men’s Fitness and has been speaking with Condé Nast, but said the editor had not yet Genre, is in talks with OK magazine, apparently speaking to editors By Samantha Conti made a decision regarding the W job as of Friday. But several other about a possible position. According to sources, Boulton could take sources said Tonchi had already signed a deal with Condé Nast. on an editor at large title. “If I’m asked to help turn the magazine LONDON — Graeme Fidler and Michael “It’s been known for a while, but they didn’t want to announce it around, I’ll do it, like all of the other magazines I’ve worked at,” Herz have been named Bally’s new cre- all in one day,” said one Condé Nast insider, Boulton told WWD. An OK spokesman said ative directors, and will unveil their referring to the split between W and WWD. the magazine constantly meets and looks for first full collection for the fall-winter “They wanted to give [it] breathing room.” It quality additions to the staff, but added that 2011 season. is widely believed the company will reveal its no new hire has been made. “If there were, we The appointment confirms a report in pick for W’s top spot as early as today. wouldn’t comment on the process leading up WWD last week. And while a Condé Nast spokeswoman to it,” he said. — A.W. Bally chief executive officer Berndt denied a decision had been made, she said Hauptkorn said the designers will oversee there “will be an announcement possibly FASHION LINK: Amanda Brooks, book author, all creative aspects of the brand, which early next [this] week.” — Nick Axelrod consultant and social-about-town, is adding is sold in some 700 doors worldwide, and yet another facet to her fashion profile. be charged with making the Swiss label REMEMBERING MCQUEEN: The New Yorker’s Talent agency William Morris Endeavor “modern, contemporary and cool — with a style issue pays homage to the late Entertainment tapped the New York-based northern European vibe.” Alexander McQueen with a cover illustration executive as director of fashion, a newly “They will be 100 percent committed that features the designer’s butterfly hat, created role. Brooks is not entirely new to to Bally,” Hauptkorn said during an inter- originally inspired by muse Isabella Blow. WME. For the past two years, she served as a view at Bally’s offices here. He said the In addition, Platon provided the magazine consultant to the agency, working with clients brand’s outgoing creative director, Brian with a previously unpublished photograph American Express and Revlon. She will now Atwood, would not remain as a consultant of McQueen, taken in his early days as a work with more WME clients, helping them at Bally, quashing market reports. designer, as part of a photo portfolio. to explore marketing opportunities in fashion. Hauptkorn said Bally would “remain Inside the issue there is a profile of Brooks also is expected to bring in additional focused on shoes. Shoes are part of our cashmere titan Brunello Cucinelli, who points to businesses, particularly from the fashion heritage and they are our perceived President Barack Obama as a recent inspiration, sector. She aims “to explore possibilities for strength, and from that basis we can grow calling him the new Marcus Aurelius. Cucinelli the fashion industry in the entertainment into other categories.” About 50 percent has even gone as far as commissioning a world and to develop ways for designers to of the business comes from footwear, with marble bust of Obama, which will be displayed in his home, next to grow their businesses through new partnerships.” the remainder in accessories and ready- those of Socrates, Seneca, Aristotle and Aurelius. “I sit in front of Brooks will continue to represent people in the fashion industry to-wear. the fire and talk to them,” Cucinelli told writer Rebecca Mead. looking for new jobs and opportunities, and consult for her existing Fidler and Herz resigned earlier this Despite the economic downturn, Cucinelli said the business clients, which include Diane von Furstenberg, Tod’s and Roger Vivier, month as head of men’s wear and women’s was profitable last year, and he has hired 20 people since the and write her blog and books. At WME, she will report directly toMark wear, respectively, at Aquascutum. Herz financial crisis began. Dowley, who heads the agency’s marketing division.— Marc Karimzadeh said he and Fidler would bring their expe- Meanwhile, the issue also has a look at fashion Web site Polyvore, rience at Aquascutum — a British heritage which is referred to as “the world of virtual Anna Wintours.” Jess Lee, NEW MAN AT FORTUNE: Jed Hartman has been named group brand — to bear on Bally. vice president of product management, told writer Alexandra Jacobs publisher of Fortune and CNNMoney, a new position. Hartman “I think we learned how not to get too that the site sets out “to empower people on the street to think about joins Time Inc. from The Week, where he served as publisher bogged down by an archive, but how to their sense of style and share it with the world.” She believes that since 2007. Hartman will report to Mark Ford, president of the take inspiration from the past and make a the “Funny Face” days are history. “Newspapers and magazines news group at Time Inc. — A.W. brand modern and relevant,” Herz said.

ESTABLISHED TO PROVIDE FINANCIAL AWARDS AND BUSINESS MENTORING TO EMERGING FASHION DESIGNERS 2010

The CFDA/VOGUE FASHION FUND helps emerging American designers pursue their design and business plans. In addition to grants of $200,000 to the winner and $50,000 each to the two runners-up, the award includes a yearlong mentorship with an industry professional whose business expertise is tailored to the designers’ needs and future goals.

To Be Eligible, an Applicant Must:

> Be a designer of > have professional inTereSTed and demonstrable talent; staff, paid or volunteer, eligiBle deSignerS i.e., have garnered that can devote the Should conTacT substantial (and recent) time and effort required aMy ondocin aT editorial coverage, and to accomplish the stated (212) 768-5713 or have support (orders) aims of an applicant’s [email protected] from top retailers; design-career plans; The 2010 cfda/Vogue fashion > Be american or have > request and submit fund is in partnership with J.crew, established a primary a preliminary application, and is generously underwritten by design business in the Sophie accompanied by a american express, appleman ThealleT united States; 350-word biographical foundation, Barneys new york, (righT), > Be in business statement, which should coach, hudson Bay Trading The 2009 for a minimum of include a summary of company, Juicy couture, liz faShion two years; the applicant’s design claiborne, inc., l’oréal paris, fund career, by May 17, 2010. nordstrom, Theory, and Vogue. winner. 12 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 The Next Wave Breaking in Social Media Continued from page one novelties is seemingly endless, partnerships with vari- ous types of fashion social networks such as Polyvore, Chictopia and Lookbook are among the most popular. Many of the newest ideas mix Web, mobile and local. As companies refine and deepen their strategies on Facebook, Twitter and blogs and in social media gener- ally, they are discovering that content aimed at multiple platforms and networks of people adds up to more than the sum of its parts, and can create sizable buzz and traffic for a brand. In some cases, the engagement is thought to be a more effective means of advertising than traditional online display ads and can affect orders and design. At the same time, the need to develop engaging content that works in social media is prompting some soul-searching among brands as to what their social personality should be. Contests that encourage users to create content around a brand are especially popular. The prizes and deadlines create a sense of urgency, while the content created can live online forever and spread virally. For example, starting Saturday, Saks Fifth Avenue and Jimmy Choo will partner with fashion community Closet Couture on a series of in-store events and an online contest centered on the concept of styling, and having a wardrobe of Jimmy Choo shoes for every need. In five stores across the country, Closet Couture stylists will demonstrate how to style outfits for different occa- sions using a variety of brands and Jimmy Choo shoes. On Closet Couture, visitors can go to the virtual Saks and Jimmy Choo closets to style their own outfits using clothes from La Via 18, Diane von Furstenberg, Derek Lam and others to mix and match with the shoes. Jimmy Choo will choose three winners who will each receive three pairs of shoes. Saks and Closet Couture will publi- cize the campaign via local blogs, e-mails, Facebook and snail-mail invitations. Closet Couture, which launched in October 2008, is a fashion social networking site where women can up- load photos of their own clothes to a virtual closet, mix them with clothes from brands and retailers on a virtual mannequin, plan a wardrobe and get styling advice from other members. “The reason people like to shop is because it’s fun, and in the early days you were missing some of that online,” said Saks senior vice president of marketing Kimberly Grabel. “Social media is becoming increas- ingly important. I don’t know any one I would isolate, but it’s a very aggressive strategy for us: Affiliates, com- s Couturious’ Web site. RSVP Gallery. The page is ongoing, and recent ideas have included tips for Paris during the shows and Chicago, The customer where Jacobs opened a store in February. During fash- designed ion week, anyone who fanned the page and subsequent- Coach tote. ly checked into Foursquare via mobile at any Marc Jacobs store in New York received a “Fashion Victim” badge and a gift with any purchase of $10 or more. So far, there have been about 100 check-ins to most of the rec- ommended venues, and the page has more than 1,500 fans. As for Foodspotting, it’s focused on eats, but it’s easy to imagine someone developing a similar idea for fashion. Another unusual new site with potential to affect retailers is Blippy, which sends out Twitter-like feeds of purchas- es made on credit cards by its members. In mid-April, Gap plans to introduce a mi- crosite that will aggregate buzz from social sites around the Web about the top fashion trends it deems key for spring. The comments won’t necessarily all be about Gap products, said sources familiar with the company’s plans. (Gap did not return a call seeking comment.) Not all fashion social network and commu- nity sites take off; some disappear and new ones launch all the time. In addition to the ones already s Polyvore’s Web site. tongue-in-cheek contests and posts to appear on the mentioned, active sites include Looklet, MyStyleDiary, munity sites, blogger outreach. All of that is adding up company’s Manifesto blog, which debuted in February. StyledOn, StyleIte, Iqons and Wardrobe Remix. A recent to great new sources for us for customers.” The most recent post informs men how to fold a news- entrant is Couturious, which went live on Feb. 24. As at French Connection is the first fashion brand to make paper on the subway. The blog has been getting 5,000 Closet Couture, the users “style” clothes on an image of a use of the notorious Chatroulette as part of a humorous to 10,000 daily visitors and was created by the Poke model. The site launched with six featured designers — campaign aimed at men. The rapidly growing site ran- London agency, whose employees include veterans of Alice + Olivia, Charlotte Ronson, Cynthia Rowley, Tibi, domly connects strangers around the globe for video chats, the men’s hipster magazine Vice. Tory Burch and Yigal Azrouël — who sent in samples to and has a reputation for a largely male and frequently un- “French Connection is looking to develop their men’s be photographed from their spring collections. The site is clothed audience. Only four months old, the Russian site re- wear business further, and this is one of our grassroots ap- part of a bigger network that belongs to Like.com, a visual portedly has more than a million unique visitors a month. proaches and complements the brand advertising efforts,” search engine, and includes Weardrobe, a fashion com- Earlier this month, French Connection offered a gift said Roebuck. “Overall, our social media efforts are help- munity for outfit sharing. certificate worth 250 pounds, or $380 at current exchange, ing with traffic and sales. We have also seen an increased “We’re really focusing on social media,” said Tibi to the first man — later expanded to include women — interest in our men’s wear; however, it is early days.” designer Amy Smilovic, who said her business is up sig- who could prove he or she had set up a date with a woman Marc Jacobs is the first fashion brand — and one of the nificantly. “Couturious just came up in our search for on the site. The company received only about 30 entries, first brands of any sort — to have a page on Foursquare, different companies we could partner with to have in- said French Connection head of e-commerce and digital a year-old Web and mobile community and game for ex- novative ways to speak with our customers.” marketing Jennifer Roebuck, but received a large amount ploring places. During New York Fashion Week, the com- Earlier this month, American Apparel published of coverage in the press and more than 500 blogs. pany listed things to do that its employees do, such as a book of photographs from the outfit sharing site The Chatroulette competition was just one of several ordering a pizza pie from Rivoli Pizza and checking out Lookbook showing members of the community wearing WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 13 WWD.COM outfits that include pieces from American Apparel. Even to fans. It is mulling hosting its own social network and of- more intriguing, the retailer recently started publishing on fering exclusive experiences or products to its most loyal Boom Seen Coming the product pages on its own Web site photos submitted by customers. customers of them wearing American Apparel items in a Because of the demand it can generate, social media section called “Seen and Submitted.” Some of the photos is having an effect on manufacturing and orders. Rebecca happen to be from Lookbook. So the physical book was a Minkoff, which hosted a blogging station during New York For Mobile Commerce logical extension of an existing relationship. Fashion Week, has been responding to requests, creating The company has been an advertiser on Lookbook exclusives and holding parties for various fashion com- While retailers say mobile commerce is for some time, and there are more than 7,000 outfits on munities such as the Purse Blog. When a blog or commu- hardly a blip on the radar screen as of now, they the site that incorporate American Apparel items. About nity picks up on a bag, it can have the same effect as when expect it to grow significantly this year and next as the 1,000 photos were generated when American Apparel people see photos of a celebrity wearing an item. number of people who own smart phones increases. held a contest on Lookbook for people to submit photos of “When we see trends like that, when we see enough Digital commerce, like marketing, is expanding themselves wearing American Apparel items. Many of the bubbling and communication on a certain subject, we go beyond Web stores onto new platforms and sites. people featured in the Lookbook book are also prominent back to retailers and say ‘hey you should invest in that,’” “it is difficult to predict a number, but mobile bloggers with large followings of their own. said Minkoff. “We’re leveraging that network of hundreds commerce transactions will increase like never before “Every one of those outfits is sending something back to of bloggers we interact with now to provide them content. within the next 12 to 36 months,” predicted aberdeen our Web store and our physical stores featuring that item, They’ve become like a TV channel and they have their Group analyst sahir anand. so that’s pretty cool,” said American Apparel head of on- subscribers, and if I can push that [back out] to my retail- the smart phone market is growing quickly. in the line marketing Ryan Holiday. “When you stumble upon ers, then that goes full circle.” fourth quarter of 2009, the number of smart phones something like that you really have to explore it.” Feedback from bloggers has also helped her adjust some in use increased 40 percent compared with the same The company has also done con- designs. “It opens up your consum- time the previous year, said international Data corp. tests with Chictopia and Polyvore, er voice a little bit more. It’s good Vendors shipped a total of 174.2 million smart phones and sometimes sells or gives away to know this strap was too long on a in 2009. smart phones made up 15.4 percent of all new products as well, such as a bag and I heard it from someone on mobile phones shipped in 2009, an increase from lace unitard it offered to Chictopia a blog versus an editor who might 12.7 percent in 2008, iDc said. users with 10,000 Chic reward not even know that,” she said. at Gilt Groupe, where shoppers have to act quickly points, thus guaranteeing its prod- All the social media activity as soon as a sale goes up even when they aren’t ucts will go to someone popular in means brands increasingly have at their desks, mobile commerce from its iPhone the community. to adapt not only their advertis- application accounts for 7 percent of sales on the Of all the many fashion social ing, but also how they act to suit weekend and 5 percent of sales during the week, said networking and community sites, the new reality. Gilt chief executive officer susan lyne. Polyvore is one of the biggest. Many “What’s going on here of great online streetwear retailer moxsie recently ran a brands first heard of it when they consequence is the creation of a series of online ads on sites such as refinery29 in noticed unusual amounts of traffic community of consumers,” said which a pair of sneakers from Generic surplus could coming from the site. Bill D’Arienzo, ceo of brand con- be purchased directly, without leaving the ad or going “It’s a huge traffic driver,” said sulting firm WDA Marketing, to moxsie’s site. Bluefly style editor and content who moderated a panel on social Diane von Furstenberg plans to launch an iPhone manager Nana Brew-Hammond. media Wednesday at FIT orga- app this month, and is in the process of developing a More than 6 million visitors a nized by the American Apparel mobile version of its site. so far, traffic from mobile month create, share and rate col- & Footwear Association. “Brands devices is low but a few customers have managed lages made out of online images must socialize with custom- to purchase through their phones even though the of clothes, accessories, and beauty ers. This is a major, major shift. mobile site is not yet ready, said DVF’s vice president products. The site has only 14 full- Traditional brand advertising is of e-commerce and online advertising ronit Weinberg. time employees but so much con- based on delivering a monologue. she said she expects to see more mobile commerce in tent that 30,000 new sets are creat- There is no feedback except to say the future. ed each day. In February, the site you’ve received the message. “i don’t know if it’s 2010, but i definitely feel it’s had 1.8 million visitors in the U.S., “It’s all about relationship 2011,” she said. according to ComScore Inc. marketing,” he said. “It requires avon’s younger mark “We’re really testing it to see humility and authenticity, which brand is creating a what kind of traffic it will bring together engender trust. [Social mobile phone application back to our site,” said Ronit media is causing] an evolutionary Mobile for its representatives, Weisberg, vice president of e- alteration of the brand’s identity.” “ so they can complete commerce and online advertising Brands are finding that they commerce a transaction in at Diane von Furstenburg. Even must think of something to say. In any location. like without the brand’s involvement, some cases, that means develop- transactions 1-800-Flowers, they are a DVF shoe comes up in the top 10 ing a whole online personality. already selling directly shoes chosen by members. “That If a company has a passionate will increase from Facebook pages. led me to go back and see how entrepreneur or well-known lead- “What we’re trying many shoes we bought,” she said. er such as Tony Hsieh of Zappos like never to do is really blur the “It is influencing our preorders.” or Tory Burch, it can build an lines between socializing, Polyvore recently hired a new identity around him or her, said before within between sharing, buying, chief executive, former Google ex- Anne Green, president and chief selling, direct selling — ecutive Sukhinder Singh Cassidy, operating officer of press rela- the next 12 to which is not the sexiest to help grow the company and dis- tions firm CooperKatz & Company business — as well as cover new revenue streams. Inc. A company can tell a story, 36 months. retail and all the while Many well-known brands have offer discounts, give a behind- engaging [consumers],” run contests on the site, and oth- the-scenes glimpse of its world, or — Sahir Anand,” said mark director of ers such as Bluefly create their provide inspiration. Aberdeen Group e-commerce and digital own sets. In November and The latter is a tack many fash- and strategic alliances December, Barneys New York ion firms are taking in various annemarie Frank. ran a contest and gave away gift ways, from Topshop’s blog about right now the priority among retailers is making cards. In December, Coach Inc., exciting new things the staff has sure anything anyone can do on a laptop can be ran a contest on Polyvore in which spotted, to artier projects. done on a phone, said Nick taylor, vice president of members were invited to create a Steven Alan recently started business development for Usablenet, which creates holiday party collage using two photographing and interviewing mobile sites for retailers such as Victoria’s secret. Coach items. The company re- customers, and publishing the retailers are adapting their sites for the mobile Web ceived more than 3,600 entries results on the Notes section of and creating a variety of applications. some develop from 1,700 individuals. Social media pages from Marc Jacobs, French its Facebook page. Last month, one iPhone app, whereas others, such as sears and A year earlier, the brand ran a Connection and Shipley & Halmos. Sam Shipley of Shipley & Halmos ralph lauren, create a variety for different purposes design contest with Brickfish in started posting a drawing a day on and different product lines. “there are different which people were invited to submit an original design for a blog called “Numerous Drawings.” schools of thought,” taylor said. “most of our retail a Coach tote. Coach produced the tote and threw a party for “I’d been doing [the drawings] for a while. I thought, clients are still focused on iPhone apps but we feel the winner in its Boston store. ‘Why don’t we scan them in and throw them online as a the other platforms, particularly android apps, are “We look at the number of engagements,” said David way to get people who follow our brand another idea of right behind,” he said. Duplantis, Coach’s senior vice president of global Web and the other side of the creativity that we do?’” said Shipley. the next frontier for mobile is gift card and loyalty digital media. “Our primary objective in the social space is to Personal fashion blogs are thought to provide inspira- programs that can be used in the store, online or when drive brand engagements and store traffic as well as maximiz- tion to real women. And a company’s own blog typically talking to a call center, such as the one starbucks ing e-commerce opportunities.” Coach knows the campaigns boosts search engine rankings for free. Twitter is often created for customers, according to anand. were effective anecdotally because customers would come used for news and discounts, while Facebook is emerging “this will drive the consumer stickiness that is into stores and say they had submitted an entry on Polyvore as the favorite for conversations. At Bluefly, for example, needed today,” he said. also coming soon is in-store or wanted to see the winning tote in person. “We convert peo- the company created weeks of content about celebrity- shopping location guidance and relevant offers, ple in the store,” he said. “Once they’re there, they buy.” inspired dressing during awards season. On its Facebook such as the mobile application with a store map, Online, search, e-mail and people typing in the URL page, it engaged customers in conversations about red car- shopping list and targeted discounts ibm and cisco are still the largest drivers of traffic to e-stores, but traffic pet bombs and bombshells. demonstrated at the National retail Federation from social sites is growing the fastest, he said. The surge in user-generated content around brands of- conference in January. meanwhile, shoppers are “Facebook is the largest driver of traffic in the social fers a growing alternative to online display advertising. purchasing on their mobile phones while they are space to our site,” said Duplantis. “Polyvore is a meaning- “The days of pushing it out there and telling the cus- in stores, and retailers are already creating special ful amount of traffic. One of the benefits of Polyvore is it’s tomer who you are may be coming to an end,” said Tory offers for users of the rapidly emerging location-based a very qualified audience. They’re actually coming to the Burch chief marketing officer Miki Berardelli. “I do feel social networking communities and games such as site; they’re relevant, and they can make a purchase.” these new ways of advertising are more successful and Foursquare and Gowalla. Coach is using its Facebook page to presell new products more engaging and possibly more cost effective.” — C.T.C. 14 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more Retail Shares Post Weekly Gain WEEKLY stoCKs financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. By Arnold J. Karr 52-WEEK VoLuME AMt 52-WEEK VoLuME AMt High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Retail stocks ended a seven-session win- ning streak with a Friday decline but still finished 44.78 21.25 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) - 10364002 43.91 0.79 8.00 2.56 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 7728 6.89 1.89 ahead for the week. 18.30 9.50 Acadia (AKR) 22.2 1229311 17.98 0.35 2.89 0.25 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 6.2 8926309 2.55 -0.15 the s&P Retail index slid 0.3 percent on Friday to 3.78 0.42 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 801968 0.43 -0.01 19.74 3.82 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 5077749 18.03 -0.53 445.48, reducing its advance last week to 0.7 percent 29.90 15.95 Aéropostale (ARO) 18.9 12072610 28.27 0.09 49.57 26.08 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 13.8 1187889 49.51 1.29 and its year-to-date progress to 8.4 percent. Retail is- 30.04 20.47 Alberto Culver (ACV) 22.0 2896425 27.30 -0.31 13.90 5.94 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 381517 12.60 -0.38 sues have enjoyed increases without interruption for 6.97 2.42 American Apparel (APP) 337.0 1876740 3.45 0.55 16.05 6.93 Kimco Realty (KIM) - 24205894 15.57 0.45 each of the last six weeks, dating back to Feb. 8 to 12. 19.86 10.75 American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) 23.6 15360015 18.88 0.14 60.89 39.79 Kohl’s (KSS) 18.6 17640527 55.26 1.59 of 172 stocks tracked by wwd in the retail, apparel 20.95 4.00 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 10770355 19.96 0.67 11.23 7.43 K-Swiss (KSWS) - 385947 10.83 0.45 and beauty sectors, 99 had increases, 66 had decreases 508.50 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 34.5 2061566 479.00 18.50 17.42 7.10 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 18.5 35262 15.68 0.03 and seven were flat for the week. anxiety about congress’s health-care debate and 36.39 17.78 Avon (AVP) 22.5 13642195 32.10 0.07 24.94 7.83 Limited Brands (LTD) 20.1 24862848 24.67 0.93 unresolved worries about Greek sovereign debt and 9.53 4.98 Bebe (BEBE) - 3636415 9.24 0.15 7.88 1.86 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 9363696 7.13 -0.08 chinese credit contributed to a generally bad day for 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 26.8 2551923 44.29 0.03 3.98 0.49 LJ Intl (JADE) 22.7 1244146 2.80 -0.02 stocks Friday, when the dow Jones industrial average 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 8.2 1580087 6.07 0.07 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 23.0 3978255 78.70 0.23 saw its streak of up sessions end at eight with a 0.4 per- 1.80 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 17100 0.70 -0.08 36.30 6.13 Lululemon (LULU) 63.3 3371729 33.50 -1.66 cent decline to 10,741.98. still, the dow managed a 1.1 39.59 29.73 BJs (BJ) 14.7 4394875 35.63 1.20 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 28.9 4296440 19.63 0.35 percent increase last week and is ahead 3 percent for 0.09 0.02 Blue (BLHI) - 1000 0.03 0.00 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 23.3 4903640 86.62 0.21 the year. despite declines during the week’s final ses- 3.14 0.89 Bluefly (BFLY) - 73889 2.99 0.20 41.34 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 27.6 8418813 39.40 0.21 sion, the s&P 500 and nasdaq composite advanced 0.9 14.47 1.20 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 756394 11.50 -1.35 21.82 7.86 Macy’s Inc. (M) 25.8 41544481 20.89 -0.86 percent and 0.3 percent for the week, respectively, and 15.50 2.85 Brown Shoe (BWS) 69.3 2673243 14.88 0.29 22.17 8.54 Maidenform (MFB) 14.0 1083017 21.34 -0.40 are up 4 percent and 4.6 percent this year. asian markets were up on Friday, leaving Japan’s 39.09 25.52 Buckle (BKE) 13.1 2046173 36.36 0.76 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 11.1 41042023 356.50 -1.60 nikkei 225, china’s sse composite index and Hong 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 32389536 5.76 -0.38 27.67 13.82 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 27.6 3385147 23.50 -0.08 kong’s Hang seng index with increases of 0.7 percent, 716.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 7722200 705.50 19.50 15.56 6.13 Movado (MOV) - 1626588 11.17 -2.86 1.8 percent and 0.8 percent, respectively, for the week. in 18.00 8.05 Cabela’s (CAB) 23.7 2232301 17.29 0.28 23.73 13.82 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 39.0 4412030 22.93 -0.14 Paris, the cac 40 was off less than 0.1 percent last week 5.88 1.90 Caché (CACH) - 267411 5.60 0.41 6.11 2.60 New York & Co. (NWY) - 2273616 4.60 0.51 while london’s Ftse 100 perked up 0.4 percent. 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 77.3 12976822 35.86 0.01 0.41 0.07 NexCen (NEXC) - 386796 0.09 0.00 31.24 17.89 Carter (CRI) 15.5 2873415 30.35 -0.15 75.35 43.25 Nike (NKE) 24.9 23516823 73.52 3.62 4.20 0.28 Casual Male (CMRG) - 1405072 3.20 -0.44 0.12 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 117800 0.03 -0.06 VF’s Wiseman Sees Pay Drop 9.3% 23.17 15.27 Cato (CATO) 16.7 620019 21.05 -0.58 40.29 14.03 Nordstrom (JWN) 20.0 13386265 40.42 0.59 vF coRP. cHieF executive oFFiceR eRic 15.56 2.05 CBL (CBL) - 11718820 14.97 0.61 22.98 9.90 Orchids Paper (TIS) 9.0 172339 16.66 -1.56 wiseman’s pay contracted 9.3 percent last year, to $7.2 6.20 2.65 CCA (CAW) 10.5 247997 5.49 0.24 25.62 5.26 Oxford (OXM) - 538427 20.74 -0.89 million, as a higher salary and nonequity incentive 1.85 0.26 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 230148 1.95 0.20 7.25 1.35 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 11712932 5.07 0.21 plan compensation were unable to offset the loss of a 6.84 1.11 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 7056487 6.54 -0.03 2.61 0.75 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 211695 2.10 0.18 bonus and a decline in stock and option awards. 93.60 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 28.5 0 93.49 0.00 12.47 2.84 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 4605267 11.55 -0.55 wiseman, chairman, president and ceo of the 24.43 13.30 Cherokee (CHKE) 13.3 180897 17.90 0.20 23.21 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 1039918 20.90 -0.92 Greensboro, n.c.-based apparel powerhouse, saw his 15.43 4.56 Chico’s (CHS) 36.9 10412701 14.15 -0.61 54.75 17.11 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 29.2 10464752 53.73 5.99 salary move up to $1.04 million from $950,000 and in- 43.57 21.20 Children’s Place (PLCE) 14.1 3457360 43.82 1.36 0.98 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 7599 0.50 0.00 centive plan earnings rise to $1.15 million from just less 9.02 3.75 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 644818 8.02 -0.11 86.97 37.27 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 20.5 5194120 82.86 0.70 than $119,000 in 2008. But he received no bonus, versus 30.85 21.30 Cintas (CTAS) 22.8 7644341 28.13 1.46 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 55.5 2487421 96.06 1.28 a $641,250 payment in 2008, and his stock and option awards fell 27 percent to $4.2 million from $5.7 million 34.31 13.31 Citi Trends (CTRN) 25.0 690514 33.17 2.42 23.65 13.76 PriceSmart (PSMT) 16.5 334104 23.12 -0.28 in the prior year. Because of vesting schedules and fluc- 39.20 14.84 Coach (COH) 19.0 14264342 37.85 -0.42 4.57 1.03 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 22956086 4.18 0.14 tuating stock prices, stock and option awards weren’t 9.20 2.00 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 2959034 6.90 0.01 10.47 5.26 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 11.1 148359 10.28 0.13 necessarily realized but are reported when public com- 87.39 57.00 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 19.4 10112087 84.84 0.69 11.97 4.58 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 17.8 731817 11.43 0.37 panies submit their definitive proxies to the securities 24.31 8.42 Collective Brands (PSS) 17.0 5610766 21.36 -0.81 41.71 24.44 Regency Centers (REG) - 4658487 38.32 0.75 and exchange commission, as vF did on Friday. 52.68 29.01 Columbia Sportswear (COLM) 26.5 1050331 52.09 3.41 10.00 1.47 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 1884676 8.89 -0.83 wiseman earned a total of $8 million in 2008 and $4.9 62.12 44.00 Costco (COST) 23.6 15800775 60.72 0.55 19.87 2.30 Revlon (REV) 15.7 781968 14.40 -1.46 million in 2007. President of the firm since 2006, he became 8.47 1.02 Crocs (CROX) - 17250329 7.80 0.13 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 69.0 10651239 41.62 1.22 ceo in January 2008 and chairman seven months later. 0.20 0.04 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 25000 0.06 -0.02 54.50 33.33 Ross Stores (ROST) 16.6 16292620 54.07 1.15 last year, vF’s sales fell 5.6 percent to $7.22 billion as net income dropped 23.5 percent to $461.3 million, its lowest 136.93 45.00 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 15.1 1578457 133.03 2.07 36.30 22.26 Rue21 (RUE) - 1620519 35.20 3.25 level since 2003. its operating margin, return on invested cap- 2.88 1.53 Delia’s (DLIA) 4.8 410239 2.02 -0.01 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 56449820 0.41 0.02 ital and return on average stockholders equity — 11.9 percent, 15.34 4.20 Delta Apparel (DLA) 14.8 15166 15.24 0.14 8.63 1.55 Saks (SKS) - 20630820 8.30 0.11 12.6 percent and 15.6 percent, respectively — all dropped to 25.86 4.56 Destination Maternity (DEST) 20.7 77311 24.44 -0.33 9.03 5.00 Sally Beauty (SBH) 14.8 2763347 8.47 0.03 their lowest levels in five years. However, cash from opera- 13.16 1.83 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 26555590 12.64 0.82 106.06 38.66 Sears (SHLD) 52.7 3592071 103.61 0.26 tions, at $973.5 million, hit a five-year high. vF owns wrangler, 23.77 4.82 Dillard’s (DDS) 25.1 5702262 22.84 -0.01 86.04 30.45 Simon Property Group (SPG) 80.5 15445173 83.54 1.46 the north Face, nautica and numerous other brands. 26.51 21.30 Dollar General (DG) 43.5 1706130 25.60 0.47 34.50 6.03 Skechers (SKX) 29.4 3165263 33.01 -0.18 shares of vF Friday closed at $79.71, down 15 cents, 27.30 11.19 Dress Barn (DBRN) 18.7 4522871 25.79 -1.24 0.90 0.22 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 19973 0.70 0.00 or 0.2 percent, and in intraday trading came within 71 29.78 8.50 DSW (DSW) 21.5 4177794 25.56 -3.72 15.65 8.60 Stage Stores (SSI) 20.4 1053666 15.16 0.32 cents of the 52-week high of 80.95. during 2009, they 19.14 8.75 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 68.9 7270 14.30 -0.31 13.75 1.34 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 2520543 9.22 0.14 ranged from $46.06 on March 6 to $79.79 on oct. 26. — A.J.K. 19.50 5.02 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 38.6 719396 17.47 -1.47 46.50 16.26 Steve Madden (SHOO) 16.5 992625 44.54 -0.66 64.28 23.17 Estée Lauder (EL) 31.3 5830463 63.13 -0.38 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) 4.5 814537 63.20 2.50 36.44 25.52 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.9 8140384 35.82 0.44 10.15 5.11 Syms (SYMS) 10.0 57978 9.52 0.10 14.22 5.54 Finish Line (FINL) 233.2 2768404 13.89 0.07 13.43 1.86 Talbots (TLB) - 6068368 11.34 -0.27 WEEKLY 39.60 14.67 Fossil (FOSL) 18.7 1657634 38.36 -0.37 4.61 1.49 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 64811 3.73 0.10 WWD 2.54 0.30 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 117362 1.15 -0.05 4.20 1.88 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 12.6 29158 3.99 -0.21 CHANGE 14.85 9.01 Freds (FRED) 20.4 1371547 10.45 -0.22 44.50 27.14 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 30.9 2657761 42.81 -0.23 ENDING 196.75 27.50 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 947782 49.00 7.00 53.64 29.95 Target (TGT) 16.1 19421770 53.30 0.22 ( MARCH 19 ) INDEX % 23.36 11.83 Gap (GPS) 14.7 34083376 23.22 0.42 42.12 14.40 Taubman (TCO) - 2739487 40.63 0.75 29.75 14.89 Genesco (GCO) - 1050765 29.00 -0.43 6.35 2.70 Tefron (TFRFF) - 0 4.00 0.00 Gainers Change CoMposItE 22.45 4.60 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 444164 21.15 -0.69 48.38 19.97 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 38.1 11487163 47.25 1.25 Jaclyn 37.80 978.30 26.95 7.64 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 27.1 1811997 26.38 0.12 21.20 10.75 Timberland (TBL) 20.3 1316246 20.79 -0.36 American Apparel 18.97 5.38 1.11 Glimcher (GRT) - 5423038 5.20 0.45 43.41 24.35 TJX Cos. (TJX) 15.2 18856140 42.98 0.85 French Connection 16.67 28.33 17.92 G&K (GKSR) - 258544 27.20 0.76 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 18.8 205733 52.18 0.18 Phillips-Van Heusen 12.55 48.39 16.96 Guess (GES) 18.1 11428789 46.90 1.17 29.89 10.59 True Religion (TRLG) 15.4 1988162 29.04 -0.07 52.50 17.65 Gymboree (GYMB) 15.3 3613468 52.55 1.13 33.31 15.53 Under Armour (UA) 30.8 3010248 28.74 0.34 New York & Co. 12.47 5.55 1.75 Hampshire (HAMP) - 25695 4.00 -0.50 4.10 0.55 Unifi (UFI) - 1052960 3.24 -0.56 27.50 8.72 Hanesbrands (HBI) 50.5 2228115 26.84 -0.25 32.41 17.60 Unilever (UL) - 4492912 29.42 -0.45 Decliners Change 477.80 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 24.0 10058249 476.10 13.60 36.91 14.91 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 28.2 12873476 35.60 -0.89 Movado -20.38 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 39.5 235949 105.40 1.65 80.95 53.27 VF Corp. (VFC) 19.3 4229822 79.71 0.08 Unifi -14.74 30.39 4.35 HSN (HSNI) 23.2 4281727 29.34 -0.19 19.74 8.70 Volcom (VLCM) 20.8 558111 18.00 -0.33 DSW -12.70 13.87 5.25 Hot Topic (HOTT) 23.4 4168800 6.40 0.20 56.27 47.35 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.1 81669418 55.34 1.44 Casual Male -12.09 24.35 14.50 IAC Interactive (IACI) - 9184403 23.89 0.13 48.30 19.71 Warnaco (WRC) 23.0 3145713 46.21 -1.22 15.09 18.30 7.63 Iconix (ICON) 14.3 2896321 15.22 -0.11 23.18 8.36 Weingarten (WRI) 18.4 5200022 22.95 1.03 Hampshire -11.11 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 24.5 12302482 48.79 2.19 4.68 2.77 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 27.9 3287099 4.53 -0.01 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 15.72 5.22 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 20.7 710303 14.77 0.40 28.22 20.82 Weyco (WEYS) 20.9 178922 23.62 -0.33 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 29.25 0.04 Wolverine (WWW) 23.4 1526643 28.95 0.02 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch 47.67 12.06 J. Crew (JCG) 23.6 6231540 44.03 -1.07 8.51 1.03 Zale (ZLC) - 17089554 3.42 0.33 Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 37.21 16.78 J.C. Penney (JCP) 26.6 18963257 31.42 0.86 21.29 7.27 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 89.0 1673043 19.35 0.34 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 15 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS PRATT NEWEST ICON: Catherine Malandrino will pick up the 2010 Pratt Institute Fashion Icon at the event and then auctioned off, with proceeds benefitting the AIDS research and education Award May 13 at the school’s annual fashion show at the Altman building. As the fifth designer organization. Similar events will be held in Paris on June 25 and Los Angeles in October. The to receive this prize, she follows in the footsteps of Ralph Rucci, Carmen Marc Valvo, Narciso initiative, produced by Josh Wood Productions, was revealed at an event at the Norwood club on Rodriguez and Diane von Furstenberg. Thursday evening, attended by amfAR chairman Kenneth Cole, Alan Cumming, Lorenzo Martone, Browne and Bartlett. Last year, amfAR raised $22.3 million for its programs IN AN INSTANT: Fans of Polaroid instant film will soon have a substitute — new and has invested $307 million to combat the disease since 1985. analog instant film for traditional Polaroid cameras has been made through The Impossible Project. The 17-month research and development initiative started STACEY AND SAKS: Whether it was a premonition or a goal made good, Alice last fall when the last remaining Polaroid factory, a location in The Netherlands, + Olivia’s shop-in-shop opening at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York flagship was spared the wrecking ball by Austrian entrepreneur Florian Kaps. Fashion was a dream come true for founder and designer Stacey Bendet. “Five years photographer Jeremy Kost will be among the supporters on hand when the PX ago Deanna [Berkeley, Alice + Olivia president] and I were walking up Fifth 100 and PX600 Silver Shade instant film is unveiled in New York. It will be Avenue and she said, ‘I guarantee you in five years we’re going to have a store available at the-impossible-project.com starting Thursday and at select stores in Saks,’” said Bendet, who celebrated the opening Thursday with a range of down-the-road. The film is meant to be compatible with the analog instant television personalities, from reality TV stars (Tinsley Mortimer) to wannabe camera Polaroid plans to unveil with Lady Gaga’s help. An Impossible Project reality TV stars (Ali Wise) to real TV stars (Katrina Bowden and Kelly Rutherford). store and gallery will bow at 425 Broadway April 30, and champions of the For all the pretty partygoers, the crowd couldn’t take its eyes off the dueling cause are also in the midst of buying the International Polaroid Collection. DJ duos, Harley Viera-Newton and Cassie Coane and Mia Moretti and Caitlin Moe, whose electric violin performance was the highlight of the night. They FRENCH LESSONS: When Simone Veil was inducted into the L’Académie were joined by DJ Chelsea Leyland. Even more pleasing than the turn out for française last week she did so wearing Chanel couture. Karl Lagerfeld created the party was the shop’s numbers since its opening, at least where Saks brass a haute version of the academician uniform just for her: a black tailcoat was concerned. “We’ve seen huge growth,” said Joe Boitano, Saks’ group embroidered with green and gold leaves by Lesage, and a long skirt in black senior vice president and general merchandise manager. “Double digits.” crepe. Veil, a survivor of a Nazi concentration camp who would go on to become one of France’s most popular politicians, is one of only six women JASON’S HOUSE: “I call this the christening of the house,” said Jason Wu to be invited to join the elite institution, which has governed the French at the official unveiling of his new design studio at the old Mary McFadden language since 1635. building on 35th Street in Manhattan. “We moved here in January and went Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel sketch straight to working on the fall collection and runway. We’re only getting to KYLIE’S INSPIRATION: AmfAR will kick off a new series of men’s fashion fund- for Simone Veil. celebrate now.” Guests at the opening party Thursday night, which also raising events this year, dubbed “Inspiration” galas, with the first set for June showcased his new candy-colored camera collection with GE, included Alina 3 at the New York Public Library and hosted by Kylie Minogue. Designers including Ralph Lauren, Cho, Poppy de Villeneuve, Ferebee Bishop Taube and models Karlie Kloss, Siri Tollerød and Sara Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Yves Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, Thom Browne, John Bartlett, Blomqvist. Also in the house: jewelry designer Eddie Borgo, who was named a CFDA awards Michael Bastian, Tim Hamilton and Band of Outsiders, among others, will donate pieces inspired nominee, along with Wu, the previous night. “It’s nice that we’re all friends,” said Borgo. “I feel by this year’s “Black Tie/Black Leather” theme. The designs will be featured in a runway show the support, but it’s also so encouraging.”

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. Spaces COMMERCIAL Professional Services REAL ESTATE CUSTOMER SERVICE For apparel/accessories company. 3+yrs exp in order entry/allocation, EDI. Communication and computer skills a must. Send resume to 212-840- Showrooms & Lofts 8333 or [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 IT /OFFICE MANAGER Growing company seeks experienced manager to be responsible for IT, EDI and all aspects of office operations. Send resume to [email protected] Spacious, airy showroom on 39th &7th Ave, heart of the garment district. 4000 sq ft, entire 14th floor. Frt. & pass elevator access. Avail now to sublease. Contact: Michael Schoen (212) 452-6045 EDI COORDINATOR Major apparel co seeks organized person to work in fast paced EDI dept. Prior exp (min 1-2 yrs) w/customer order processing. Working knldge of EDI transactions sets, UCC 128 labels, printing tickets and Inovis Catalog E-mail resume including salary req to: [email protected]

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PRODUCTIONS All line, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Sample Maker/ RTW Call Sherry 212-719-0622 Must be able to work w/ soft wovens, jerseys & sportswear qualities. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, 10 years experience & must speak PRODUCTIONS English. Send resume to: Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699

FAIRCHILD CLASSIFIED IS NOW SELF SERVICE! To place a print ad, go to www.fairchildclassified.com For online-only recruitment ads, go to wwdcareers.com WWDAccessories Section II 2010

Get on the “A” List

“A” SECTION II

in print & Online: April 19 ClOse: April 8 bOnus distributiOn: Accessorie Circuit

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212-630-4737, or your WWD salesperson.