Page 1 Monday s s INNERWEAR: ACCESSORIES: The full-figure isabel Toledo to do bra business handbag and shoe line booms, page 8. for payless, page 2. EYE: Karen elson NEWS: The debate on songwriting, goes on over the modeling and s future of the Garment music, page 4. center, page 10. s Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 22, 2010 • $3.00 WWDMONAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearDAY The Look Of Glove NEW YORK — Designers took gloves far beyond their practical dimension this season. Case in point: Carolina Herrera’s elbow- length woven suede versions, worn with a long, cozy scarf, fur collar and hat. For more cool handwarmers, see pages 6 and 7. Web’s Next New Wave: Brands Moving Beyond Facebook and Twitter By Cate T. Corcoran As The sociAl MeDiA lANDscApe changes faster than lady Gaga’s wigs, fashion companies on the hunt for customers and buzz are looking beyond Facebook, Twitter and blogs to new emerging platforms. There is no lack of sites and applications to try, as the weeks and months bring scores of copycats or, in some cases, completely new concepts that use the internet in previously unimagined ways, from the controversial chatroulette to Foursquare to Foodspotting, a visual and local food guide and game that debuted at the south By southwest conference in Austin this past week. While the variety of collaborations and See The Next, Page12 PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 22, 2010 WWD.COM Feds Break Up Counterfeit Ring By Liza Casabona money laundering. The defendants began conspir- ing in March 2008, according to court documents. WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY WASHINGTON — Federal officials said Friday they The U.S. defendants face maximum five-year had broken up a multimillion-dollar counterfeit sentences for conspiracy, up to 20 years in pris- ring with ties in Baltimore, New York, London, on on each of the 33 smuggling charges, up to 10 FASHION Malaysia and China. years for each count of trafficking in counterfeit Great gloves, in a large range of materials and The U.S. Attorney for the District of Maryland goods and a maximum of 20 years on five money 6 details, were one of the strongest accessories and U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement laundering counts, in addition to monetary fines trends to emerge from the fall runways. charged nine defendants with smuggling more in the millions of dollars. Two of the defendants than 630,000 counterfeit Gucci, Coach, Cartier were arrested on Wednesday, six were arrested GENERAL and Nike items such as shoes, handbags and Thursday and one suspect is at large. As the social media landscape changes, fashion watches worth an estimated $33 million into the The conspirators allegedly imported goods 1 companies on the hunt for customers and buzz U.S. through the Port of Baltimore. manufactured in Malaysia and China into the are looking beyond Facebook, Twitter and blogs In a related case, authorities in London said U.S., according to the indictment. To get the goods to new emerging platforms. Friday they had arrested six individuals and seized cleared through Customs for sale in the U.S., the 50,000 counterfeit Gucci, Ugg, Versace, Ralph defendants made contact with individuals who, 3 J.C. Penney and Olympic gymnast Nastia Liukin Lauren, Nike and Adidas items at 30 locations in unknown to them, were undercover ICE agents. are teaming up for a full lifestyle collection for girls the greater London area in what they said was one The undercover ICE agents documented 33 ages eight to 12, called Supergirl by Nastia. of the largest counterfeit busts in U.K. history. occasions between May 2008 and December 2009 8 INNERWEAR: Bra sizes in the U.S. are larger than ever when the members of the smuggling ring alleg- as manufacturers and retailers try to accommodate edly directed shipments of counterfeit goods the rising number of full-figure women. Criminal organizations that through the Port of Baltimore. Goods were either “ transferred to locations in New York and New 9 ACCESSORIES: The eyewear sector showcased smuggle and sell counterfeit Jersey or they were picked up in Maryland. a strong sense of nostalgia as vintage trends The London investigation was a result of coop- dominated the Mido trade show in Milan. goods in the United States eration between City of London Police, the U.K. The National Retail Federation and eBay are Border Agency and ICE. It is ongoing. ICE said it 10 forging a strategic alliance in an effort to fight endanger our economy. had tracked the movement of shipping contain- organized retail crime. — John Morton, U.S. Immigration” ers that were used to smuggle counterfeit goods from China to the U.S. and U.K., which lead to EYE the arrests in both cities. One of the defendants and Customs Enforcement Reports from Angela Missoni’s dinner at the new charged in Baltimore allegedly arranged to have s 4 Rodeo Drive boutique and the luncheon at Barneys “Criminal organizations that smuggle and sell money wired to undercover agents for three con- Olya Thompson counterfeit goods in the United States endan- tainers that were to be shipped to England. The New York to celebrate Duro Olowu’s new collection. ger our economy and rob legitimate industries same defendant also allegedly met with under- Classified Advertisements................................................................................................15 of their business,” said John Morton, assistant cover agents in England to discuss expansion of secretary with U.S. Immigration and Customs the counterfeit smuggling operation. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Enforcement, also known as ICE. “Nike is grateful for the diligence and hard [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. Rod Rosenstein, U.S. Attorney for the District work that the agents of Immigration and Customs WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 of Maryland, said, “Intellectual property crimes Enforcement have demonstrated throughout this FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 199, NO. 61. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one are among the Justice Department’s top white- investigation,” said Lori Colbert, North America additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, collar enforcement priorities.” brand protection manager for Nike Inc. “Their and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance The indictment includes 72 counts of conspira- commitment to ending the flow of counterfeit Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; cy, smuggling, trafficking in counterfeit goods and goods across borders has been unwavering.” Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/ Toledo Doing Collection for Payless wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If By Caroline Tell lifestyles. In a way, it’s the closest thing to real life during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with for me. And I feel like I’m all of these women.” your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S ISABEL TOLEDO IS CREATING HANDBAGS Toledo, creative director of the Anne Klein WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 and shoes for the masses. designer collection until it was closed by or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the The designer is launching an accessories Jones Apparel Group Inc., joins a roster of de- World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these and footwear collection for Payless ShoeSource, signers who have signed on with the Topeka, offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. which will hit hundreds of Payless stores, as Kan.-based footwear retailer under its Payless WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, well as at payless.com, starting Designer Collections series. UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND R TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS.