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Tim Gunn Fashion Innovators PUBLISHER’S NOTE Fashion Innovators SUR¿OHV WKH PRVW LQQRYDWLYH DQG 7KHWH[WRIWKHHVVD\VDUHGLYLGHGLQWRWKHIROORZLQJ LQÀXHQWLDO LQGLYLGXDOV LQ WKH GHYHORSPHQW RI IDVKLRQ • Early Life provides facts about the individual’s From the post–World War II revival of haute couture to upbringing. Where little is known about the per- WKH³PDVKXS´VW\OHRIWKHWZHQW\¿UVWFHQWXU\WKHKLV- son’s early life, historical context is provided. tory of fashion is immeasurably rich, with milestones • Life’s Work, the heart of the article, consists of a WKDWKDYHUHYROXWLRQL]HGRXUVRFLHW\7KLVQHZWLWOHH[- straightforward, generally chronological account amines those individuals most responsible for the design of how the individual gained recognition, em- and production behind fashion today, from designers to SKDVL]LQJ WKHLU PRVW VLJQL¿FDQW HQGHDYRUV DQG the models popularizing their designs. achievements—and failures. • Personal Information includes post-achieve- SCOPE OF COVERAGE ment activities or positions, family life, and top- Fashion Innovators features more than 180 biographies ics of general interest. RILQGLYLGXDOVZKRKDYHKDGDVLJQL¿FDQWLQÀXHQFHRQ • Each essay also includes an annotated Further the development of fashion, culminating with the styles Reading section that provides a starting point for of today that borrow from both hip-hop and unisex in- additional research. GLHVW\OHV7KHPDMRULW\RIWKHVHELRJUDSKLFDOHVVD\VDUH derived from Current Biography, which is a monthly SPECIAL FEATURES magazine that H. W. Wilson began publishing in 1940. Several features distinguish this series from other bio- Biographies represent a strong multi-ethnic, cross-gen- JUDSKLFDOUHIHUHQFHZRUNV7KHEDFNPDWWHULQFOXGHVWKH der focus, with accompanying sidebars describing the following aids, appendices, and indexes: DI¿OLDWLRQZLWKZKLFKWKDWLQGLYLGXDOLVPRVWRIWHQDV- • Timeline presents a comprehensive list of mile- sociated. Among the editors’ criteria for inclusion in the stone events in the evolution of fashion since the VHWZDVDQLQGLYLGXDO¶VKLVWRULFDOVLJQL¿FDQFHZKHWKHU 1940s. WKURXJK WKHLU UHSUHVHQWDWLRQ RI WKHLU SDUWLFXODU ¿HOG • Category index lists people in fashion by area of his or her relevance to popular culture; or his or her SULPDU\¿HOGRUVSHFLDOW\ appeal to high school and undergraduate students and • Fashion awards is a glossary of international general readers. awards. • Index provides a detailed A-Z list of persons, ESSAY LENGTH AND FORMAT VLJQL¿FDQWHYHQWVFRQFHSWVSULQFLSOHVDQGRWKHU Each essay averages 3,000 words in length and displays topics of discussion. standard reference top matter offering easy access to the • Sidebars GHVFULEH D VLJQL¿FDQW DI¿OLDWLRQ IRU following biographical information: ZKLFKHDFKSHUVRQSUR¿OHGLVEHVWNQRZQ • Name by which the subject is best known; • Images are provided for dozens of biographical • Birth and death dates, followed by locations of subjects. those events as available; • $UHDV RI DFKLHYHPHQW LQFOXGLQJ SULPDU\ ¿HOG and specialty, an all-encompassing categorical CONTRIBUTORS list including cosmeticians, designers, entrepre- Salem Press would like to extend its appreciation to neurs, and models; all involved in the development and production of this • Primary company or organization with which the work. LQGLYLGXDO KDV EHHQ PRVW VLJQL¿FDQWO\ DVVRFL- ated; • Synopsis of the individual’s historical impor- tance in relation to fashion, indicating why the person is or should be studied today. ix Tim Gunn Fashion Innovators TIM GUNN CCO of Liz Claiborne, Inc.; fashion consultant; educator Born: July 29, 1953; Washington, D.C. FRXOGKDYH²QXUWXULQJEXWQRQRQVHQVHVHDVRQHGEXW Primary Field: CCO of Liz Claiborne not over it, frank but fair,” Dennis Hensley wrote for *URXS$I¿OLDWLRQ 3URMHFW5XQZD\ the Advocate.com (March 15, 2006), in an article about Gunn titled “The Sanest Man in Reality TV.” INTRODUCTION The fashion consultant, television personality, and ed- EARLY LIFE ucator Tim Gunn is a member of “that rare breed of 7KH¿UVWRIWKHWZRFKLOGUHQRI1DQF\&RPIRUW*XQQ reality-TV star who is entertaining without resorting to DQG*HRUJH:LOOLDP*XQQ7LPRWK\0DFNHQ]LH*XQQ scathing remarks,” Siobhan Duck wrote for the Mel- was born on July 29, 1953 in Washington, D.C., and bourne, Australia, Herald Sun (May 14, 2008). Since grew up in the Cleveland Park section of that city. His its debut, in December 2004, Gunn has appeared on the father (who died in 1995) was a special agent and writer cable-TV series Project Runway in the role of fashion with the Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) and an expert, counselor, therapist, or “den father,” to cite a assistant to its longtime director J. Edgar Hoover; after few of the labels that have been applied to him. At the he retired from the FBI, he became an editor for Read- start of each season of Project Runway, 12 would-be er’s Digest and a consultant to writers on such subjects designers vie for a prize of $100,000, to be used by as the FBI and crime. Gunn’s mother helped set up the WKHZLQQHUWRODXQFKKLVRUKHU¿UVWFRPPHUFLDOFORWK- Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) library before de- ing collection. Every week each contestant must cre- voting herself to homemaking. Gunn’s sister, now Kim ate a particular type of garment while following rules Gunn Gundy, is three years his junior. His mother taught concerning materials, cost, and time constraints. The her son and daughter housekeeping skills to ensure that competitors, whose numbers dwindle with each pass- they would always be able to take care of themselves. ing week, are shown in the process of designing gar- Gunn has traced his interest in design to his early ments, acquiring the materials to make them, and childhood; he enjoyed constructing grand buildings out constructing them, while Gunn expresses his positive RI/HJRDQGFUHDWLQJRXW¿WVIRUKLVWR\VROGLHUVDQGKLV or negative reactions to their work and makes sugges- sister’s Barbie dolls. He told Vicki Hyman for the New- tions, in a manner that is unfailingly gentlemanly and ark, New Jersey, Star-Ledger (February 15, 2006), “I encouraging. Writing for the Washington, D.C.-based had a Barbie obsession. I was concerned with the whole Metro Weekly (September 27, 2007, on-line), Randy Barbie lifestyle.” He also read avidly and studied piano. Shulman described Gunn as “instructive, authorita- “I was solitary, but I was never lonely,” he told Beth WLYHDQGFRPSOHWHO\XWWHUO\DFFHVVLEOH+HGRHVQ¶WMXVW Perry for People 0D\ +HZDVDOVRLQWURYHUW- KDYHFKDUPKHLVFKDUPSHUVRQL¿HG(YHQZKHQ*XQQ ed, introspective, and extremely shy and suffered from a shows disdain over a particular fashion option, it’s with VHYHUHVWXWWHUZKLFKOHGKLVSHHUVWREXOO\KLPDQGÀLQJ a feather’s touch.” Shulman continued, “True, he can “horrible slurs” at him, as he recalled to Eric Wilson for EHKDUVKEXWKH¶VQR6LPRQ&RZHOOOLNHSLWEXOO´²D the New York Times $SULO +HIHOWVRPLVHU- UHIHUHQFHWRWKHDFLGWRQJXHGLQVXOWSURQHMXGJHRQWKH able that during his adolescence and teens, he repeat- TV series American Idol. “Gunn clearly cares about his edly transferred from one boarding or private school to VXEMHFWV´³,ZDQWHDFKRQHRIWKHPWRVXFFHHG´*XQQ another—a dozen altogether. Adding to his unhappiness WROG6KXOPDQ³,NQRZWKDWVRPHRQHE\GH¿QLWLRQZLOO was his conviction that his father disapproved of him. be [voted] out, but I want all of them to have the op- “He loved me, but I knew that I wasn’t quite the son he portunity to succeed. Sometimes my words are a little wanted; he really wanted a football jock,” he told Perry. strong. It’s tough love because I want them to know In elementary school Gunn was always last to be chosen what’s on my mind. And not necessarily to change what for teams, and he joined none of the neighborhood youth they’re doing, because I have tremendous respect for teams that his father coached; as a high-school student, their point of view. But faulty execution is another mat- he excelled only at swimming—“It was nice and clean ter.” “Tim Gunn is the fairy godfather we all wish we and you didn’t sweat,” he joked to Vicki Hyman. His 252 Fashion Innovators Tim Gunn limited athletic skills were, he added, Affiliation: Project Runway “the bane of my father’s existence.” After graduating from high school, Gunn comes across as a superlative educator on Project Runway partly *XQQHQWHUHG<DOH8QLYHUVLW\LQ1HZ because, for most of his professional life, he was an educator—a college Haven, Connecticut; he concentrated teacher and administrator. Trained in architectural drawing and sculp- ¿UVWRQ(QJOLVKOLWHUDWXUHDQGWKHQRQ ture, he taught a course in three-dimensional design for several years at architecture. He later transferred to the his alma mater, the Corcoran School of Art and Design. He later taught &RUFRUDQ&ROOHJHRI$UW 'HVLJQLQ the same subject at the Parsons School of Design (known since 2005 as Washington, D.C., where he focused Parsons the New School for Design), where he also served as an associate on sculpture. He was inspired by the dean (1987-2000) and chair of the Department of Fashion Design (2000- work of the 20th-century American 2007). “My role in [Project Runway] is so much like what I do at Parsons sculptor Joseph Cornell, famous for day in and day out,” he told Dennis Hensley. Gunn also appears on the his boxed, compartmentalized assem- TV series Tim Gunn’s Guide to Style, which debuted in 2007 and is a spin-off blages of found objects. Commenting from his book, Tim Gunn: A Guide to Quality, Taste, & Style (2007), co- RQ&RUQHOO¶VLQÀXHQFH*XQQWROG(ULF written with Kate Moloney. In 2007 Gunn ended his 25-year tenure at Wilson, “I thought there must be a way Parsons to become chief
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