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Tim Gunn Fashion Innovators

Tim Gunn Fashion Innovators

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Fashion Innovators SUR¿OHV WKH PRVW LQQRYDWLYH DQG 7KHWH[WRIWKHHVVD\VDUHGLYLGHGLQWRWKHIROORZLQJ LQÀXHQWLDO LQGLYLGXDOV LQ WKH GHYHORSPHQW RI IDVKLRQ • Early Life provides facts about the individual’s From the post–World War II revival of to upbringing. Where little is known about the per- WKH³PDVKXS´VW\OHRIWKHWZHQW\¿UVWFHQWXU\WKHKLV- son’s early life, historical context is provided. tory of is immeasurably rich, with milestones • Life’s Work, the heart of the article, consists of a WKDWKDYHUHYROXWLRQL]HGRXUVRFLHW\7KLVQHZWLWOHH[- straightforward, generally chronological account amines those individuals most responsible for the design of how the individual gained recognition, em- and production behind fashion today, from designers to SKDVL]LQJ WKHLU PRVW VLJQL¿FDQW HQGHDYRUV DQG the models popularizing their designs. achievements—and failures. • Personal Information includes post-achieve- SCOPE OF COVERAGE ment activities or positions, family life, and top- Fashion Innovators features more than 180 biographies ics of general interest. RILQGLYLGXDOVZKRKDYHKDGDVLJQL¿FDQWLQÀXHQFHRQ • Each essay also includes an annotated Further the development of fashion, culminating with the styles Reading section that provides a starting point for of today that borrow from both hip-hop and unisex in- additional research. GLHVW\OHV7KHPDMRULW\RIWKHVHELRJUDSKLFDOHVVD\VDUH derived from Current Biography, which is a monthly SPECIAL FEATURES magazine that H. W. Wilson began publishing in 1940. Several features distinguish this series from other bio- Biographies represent a strong multi-ethnic, cross-gen- JUDSKLFDOUHIHUHQFHZRUNV7KHEDFNPDWWHULQFOXGHVWKH der focus, with accompanying sidebars describing the following aids, appendices, and indexes: DI¿OLDWLRQZLWKZKLFKWKDWLQGLYLGXDOLVPRVWRIWHQDV- • Timeline presents a comprehensive list of mile- sociated. Among the editors’ criteria for inclusion in the stone events in the evolution of fashion since the VHWZDVDQLQGLYLGXDO¶VKLVWRULFDOVLJQL¿FDQFHZKHWKHU 1940s. WKURXJK WKHLU UHSUHVHQWDWLRQ RI WKHLU SDUWLFXODU ¿HOG • Category index lists people in fashion by area of his or her relevance to popular culture; or his or her SULPDU\¿HOGRUVSHFLDOW\ appeal to high school and undergraduate students and • Fashion awards is a glossary of international general readers. awards. • Index provides a detailed A-Z list of persons, ESSAY LENGTH AND FORMAT VLJQL¿FDQWHYHQWVFRQFHSWVSULQFLSOHVDQGRWKHU Each essay averages 3,000 words in length and displays topics of discussion. standard reference top matter offering easy access to the • Sidebars GHVFULEH D VLJQL¿FDQW DI¿OLDWLRQ IRU following biographical information: ZKLFKHDFKSHUVRQSUR¿OHGLVEHVWNQRZQ • Name by which the subject is best known; • Images are provided for dozens of biographical • Birth and death dates, followed by locations of subjects. those events as available; • $UHDV RI DFKLHYHPHQW LQFOXGLQJ SULPDU\ ¿HOG and specialty, an all-encompassing categorical CONTRIBUTORS list including cosmeticians, designers, entrepre- Salem Press would like to extend its appreciation to neurs, and models; all involved in the development and production of this • Primary company or organization with which the work. LQGLYLGXDO KDV EHHQ PRVW VLJQL¿FDQWO\ DVVRFL- ated; • Synopsis of the individual’s historical impor- tance in relation to fashion, indicating why the person is or should be studied today.

ix Fashion Innovators

TIM GUNN CCO of , Inc.; fashion consultant; educator

Born: July 29, 1953; Washington, D.C. FRXOGKDYH²QXUWXULQJEXWQRQRQVHQVHVHDVRQHGEXW Primary Field: CCO of Liz Claiborne not over it, frank but fair,” Dennis Hensley wrote for *URXS$I¿OLDWLRQ 3URMHFW5XQZD\ the Advocate.com (March 15, 2006), in an article about Gunn titled “The Sanest Man in Reality TV.” INTRODUCTION The fashion consultant, television personality, and ed- EARLY LIFE ucator Tim Gunn is a member of “that rare breed of 7KH¿UVWRIWKHWZRFKLOGUHQRI1DQF\&RPIRUW*XQQ reality-TV star who is entertaining without resorting to DQG*HRUJH:LOOLDP*XQQ7LPRWK\0DFNHQ]LH*XQQ scathing remarks,” Siobhan Duck wrote for the Mel- was born on July 29, 1953 in Washington, D.C., and bourne, Australia, Herald Sun (May 14, 2008). Since grew up in the Cleveland Park section of that city. His its debut, in December 2004, Gunn has appeared on the father (who died in 1995) was a special agent and writer cable-TV series in the role of fashion with the Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI) and an expert, counselor, therapist, or “den father,” to cite a assistant to its longtime director J. Edgar Hoover; after few of the labels that have been applied to him. At the he retired from the FBI, he became an editor for Read- start of each season of Project Runway, 12 would-be er’s Digest and a consultant to writers on such subjects designers vie for a prize of $100,000, to be used by as the FBI and crime. Gunn’s mother helped set up the WKHZLQQHUWRODXQFKKLVRUKHU¿UVWFRPPHUFLDOFORWK- Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) library before de- ing collection. Every week each contestant must cre- voting herself to homemaking. Gunn’s sister, now Kim ate a particular type of garment while following rules Gunn Gundy, is three years his junior. His mother taught concerning materials, cost, and time constraints. The her son and daughter housekeeping skills to ensure that competitors, whose numbers dwindle with each pass- they would always be able to take care of themselves. ing week, are shown in the process of designing gar- Gunn has traced his interest in design to his early ments, acquiring the materials to make them, and childhood; he enjoyed constructing grand buildings out constructing them, while Gunn expresses his positive RI/HJRDQGFUHDWLQJRXW¿WVIRUKLVWR\VROGLHUVDQGKLV or negative reactions to their work and makes sugges- sister’s dolls. He told Vicki Hyman for the New- tions, in a manner that is unfailingly gentlemanly and ark, New Jersey, Star-Ledger (February 15, 2006), “I encouraging. Writing for the Washington, D.C.-based had a Barbie obsession. I was concerned with the whole Metro Weekly (September 27, 2007, on-line), Randy Barbie lifestyle.” He also read avidly and studied piano. Shulman described Gunn as “instructive, authorita- “I was solitary, but I was never lonely,” he told Beth WLYHDQGFRPSOHWHO\XWWHUO\DFFHVVLEOH+HGRHVQ¶WMXVW Perry for People 0D\ +HZDVDOVRLQWURYHUW- KDYHFKDUPKHLVFKDUPSHUVRQL¿HG(YHQZKHQ*XQQ ed, introspective, and extremely shy and suffered from a shows disdain over a particular fashion option, it’s with VHYHUHVWXWWHUZKLFKOHGKLVSHHUVWREXOO\KLPDQGÀLQJ a feather’s touch.” Shulman continued, “True, he can “horrible slurs” at him, as he recalled to Eric Wilson for EHKDUVKEXWKH¶VQR6LPRQ&RZHOOOLNHSLWEXOO´²D the Times $SULO +HIHOWVRPLVHU- UHIHUHQFHWRWKHDFLGWRQJXHGLQVXOWSURQHMXGJHRQWKH able that during his adolescence and teens, he repeat- TV series American Idol. “Gunn clearly cares about his edly transferred from one boarding or private school to VXEMHFWV´³,ZDQWHDFKRQHRIWKHPWRVXFFHHG´*XQQ another—a dozen altogether. Adding to his unhappiness WROG6KXOPDQ³,NQRZWKDWVRPHRQHE\GH¿QLWLRQZLOO was his conviction that his father disapproved of him. be [voted] out, but I want all of them to have the op- “He loved me, but I knew that I wasn’t quite the son he portunity to succeed. Sometimes my words are a little wanted; he really wanted a football jock,” he told Perry. strong. . . . It’s tough love because I want them to know In elementary school Gunn was always last to be chosen what’s on my mind. And not necessarily to change what for teams, and he joined none of the neighborhood youth they’re doing, because I have tremendous respect for teams that his father coached; as a high-school student, their point of view. But faulty execution is another mat- he excelled only at swimming—“It was nice and clean ter.” “Tim Gunn is the fairy godfather we all wish we and you didn’t sweat,” he joked to Vicki Hyman. His

252 Fashion Innovators Tim Gunn limited athletic skills were, he added, Affiliation: Project Runway “the bane of my father’s existence.” After graduating from high school, Gunn comes across as a superlative educator on Project Runway partly *XQQHQWHUHG

253 Tim Gunn Fashion Innovators

Basically the curriculum had remained unchanged for IHZYLHZHUVIRUWKHVHDVRQRQH¿QDOHLWGUHZDQDXGL- 48 years.” ence of 2.5 million, making it the highest-rated telecast Gunn assumed his new post in the fall of 2000. in Bravo history up to the time. Meanwhile, Gunn’s ap- Among other changes, the curriculum he introduced pearances on the show had made him a cultural icon. emphasized critical thinking and a broader and deeper Gunn, who has admitted to appearing too stiff when the study of both fashion history and the commercial as- show debuted, quickly emerged as an endearing fashion pects of the fashion industry. In a step that proved to be adviser, and he has been widely credited—along with controversial, Gunn moved from the senior year to the the show’s host, the —with junior year a program in which students designed and contributing greatly to the series’ success. Some of his constructed apparel under the guidance of noted fash- SHW SKUDVHV²³0DNH LW ZRUN´ ³&DUU\ RQ´ DQG ³7KLV ion designers, in what were termed internships. Now, worries me”—have caught on with the public. He told a WRIXO¿OOWKHUHTXLUHPHQWVRIZKDWZRXOGEHDQDORJRXV Time 1RYHPEHU LQWHUYLHZHUWKDWLQWKHFODVV- to senior theses at other colleges, seniors had to design room he always used the directive “Make it work”: “It and produce seasonal collections without the direct came about from having students who are much more LQÀXHQFH RI KLJKO\ RSLQLRQDWHG VWURQJPLQGHG JXHVW inclined to start a project over rather than accept the mentors, in the hope that the students’ own design sen- FKDOOHQJHDQGWU\WR¿[LW´KHH[SODLQHG3URMHFW5XQ- sibilities would be strengthened. As before, the best of way has earned 12 Primetime Emmy nominations and a those collections would be shown in an end-of-year ex- 3HDERG\$ZDUGIRUH[FHOOHQFHLQWHOHYLVLRQEURDG- hibition and runway show at Parsons. Many of Gunn’s FDVWLQJ8QOLNHPRVWUHDOLW\VKRZV3URMHFW5XQZD\ has colleagues at Parsons and some of the famous designers never been faulted for sensationalism, and it has been who had worked with Parsons students took a dim view generally well-received by the fashion industry. It has of the junior year/senior year change; some designers also been credited with renewing interest in fashion- told him that he was “driving the American fashion in- design education; since the show’s inception, applica- dustry into the ground,” he recalled during a talk at the tions and enrollments have increased dramatically in 92nd Street YM-YWHA in 2008, as quoted on jezebel. schools that offer programs in design and other aspects com (March 12, 2008). Parsons administrators stood by of fashion. (Applications to Parsons have risen by 30 *XQQDQGWKHLUFRQ¿GHQFHLQKLPERUHIUXLWZKHQDIWHU percent.) According to Vicki Hyman, 3URMHFW5XQZD\ the senior show mounted in the spring of 2002, Julie “is smarter than your average reality show. In a genre Gilhart, ’s-fashion director at Barneys New that esteems deceit and champions ego, 3URMHFW5XQZD\ York, bought the entire collection designed jointly by is about talent and vision, whether it’s constructing a Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, who chose QHZRXW¿WE\GHFRQVWUXFWLQJDFRQWHVWDQW¶VRZQHQVHP- their mother’s maiden names, Proenza and Schouler, for ble or assembling a garden party dress made entirely their label. apparel is now sold in doz- IURPOHDYHVDQGEXGV7KHUHLVVRPHHJRDQG ens of high-end retail stores worldwide. some apparent maneuvering to keep the more ratings- In 2004, when Bravo executives asked Gunn to join friendly personalities in play . . . but the silver-haired, in the creation of a reality show devoted to fashion de- Banana Republic-clad Gunn elevates the proceedings sign, the premise of such a show struck him as “terri- with his dry wit and candid, though rarely condescend- ble,” as he recalled to Randy Shulman. But after several ing commentary.” On Larry King Live (September 2, meetings with the executive producers of the proposed 2006, on-line), Gunn told King, “Fashion is so fully show, Gunn agreed to work as an off-camera consultant. embedded in our culture today that there are mytholo- For the next six months, he helped to pin down various JLHV DERXW LW$QG LI DQ\WKLQJ WKLV VKRZ GHP\VWL¿HV details, including characteristics to look for in potential much of that and really makes fashion very, very acces- contestants and whether or not those chosen should sew sible to the public at large.” Designers whose appear- their own creations or have others sew them. Before ances on the show launched their careers—even if they long the producers decided that Gunn’s role should be were not the winners—include Jay McCarroll, Kara expanded to that of an on-camera mentor who would Saun, Wendy Pepper, , , Jeffrey critique the would-be designers’ work and offer advice. 6HEHOLD 8OL +HU]QHU &KULVWLDQ 6LULDQR .HOOL 0DUWLQ 3URMHFW5XQZD\ debuted on the Bravo cable network on and . 3URMHFW5XQZD\ now airs on the December 1, 2004. While the show initially attracted

254 Fashion Innovators Tim Gunn

/LIHWLPH7HOHYLVLRQQHWZRUN,WVVL[WKVHDVRQEHJDQLQ :HHN*XQQZDVSRUWUD\HGDVDFULPH¿JKWHUGUHVVHG August 2009. in an Iron Man suit, who teams up with several Marvel ,Q*XQQOHIW3DUVRQVWRWDNHWKHMRERIFKLHI heroines to help solve a murder committed during Fash- FUHDWLYHRI¿FHURI/L]&ODLERUQH,QFRQHRIWKHQDWLRQ¶V ion Week. Gunn will also appear in a cameo in the mov- largest apparel companies. Claiborne’s chief executive ie 2, which will be released in 2010. RI¿FHU:LOOLDP/³%LOO´0F&RPEFUHDWHGWKHSRVLWLRQ VSHFL¿FDOO\IRU*XQQZKRVHUYHVDVDFUHDWLYHJXLGHIRU PERSONAL LIFE the hundreds of employees who design for Claiborne *XQQOLYHVLQDFRQGRPLQLXPRQWKH8SSHU:HVW6LGH brands—, Lucky Brand Jeans, Juicy Culture, of , in a duplex that houses his 10,000 Mexx, Liz Claiborne New York (in partnership with its ERRNV+HHQMR\VZDONLQJLQWKHFLW\ZDWFKLQJ79DQG creative director, Isaac Mizrahi), Axcess (sold only at SOD\LQJFDUGVDQGWKHERDUGJDPH7ULYLDO3XUVXLW2SHQ- Kohl’s department stores), Claiborne by John Bartlett (a ly gay, he is currently single. “I’d have to give some- menswear collection), Kensie, and KensieGirl, among thing up to have a relationship, and I don’t want to,” he RWKHUV ³7KH HDVLHVW WKLQJ LQ WKH ZRUOG IRU PH ZRXOG told Beth Perry. “I’m having the best time of my life.” have been to stay at Parsons,” Gunn told Randy Shul- man. “I was very comfortable there and very proud of FURTHER READING my achievements. I loved my work. I really thought I Advocate.com Mar. 15, 2006 would retire there.” corcoran.org 7LP *XQQ $ *XLGH WR 4XDOLW\ 7DVWH  6W\OH Instinct (on-line) Nov. 2006  ZDVFRZULWWHQE\.DWH0RORQH\WKHDVVLVWDQW New York Times*SO$SU chairperson of Parsons’s Department of Fashion De- (Newark, New Jersey) Star-Ledger p35 Feb. 15, 2006 sign. Penelope M. Carrington wrote for the Richmond, People SL0D\ Virginia, Times Dispatch -XQH    ³7KH ERRN (Washington, D.C.) Metro Weekly RQOLQH  6HS  is conversational and full of Gunn’s sharp-witted prose  WKDWHQGHDUHGKLPWR79YLHZHUV7KHERRNH[SRXQGV Washington Post H pi Apr. 2, 2009 RQKLVWUDGHPDUNµ0DNHLWZRUN¶SKUDVHDQGLVPRUHLQ- trospective than other books that link fashion success SELECTED BOOKS WRNQRZLQJ\RXUERG\W\SH´7KHVSLQRIIUHDOLW\VHULHV 7LP*XQQ$*XLGHWR4XDOLW\7DVWH 6W\OH (with Kate Tim Gunn’s Guide to Style premiered on the Bravo net- 0RORQH\  ZRUNLQ6HSWHPEHU ,Q*XQQZDVIHDWXUHGLQWKH¿UVWLVVXHRI0DU- SELECTED TELEVISION SHOWS vel Comics’ sartorially themed miniseries Models Inc., 3URMHFW5XQZD\ 2004- which went on sale during New York’s Fall Fashion Tim Gunn’s Guide to Style,

255 FASHION TIMELINE

DATE MILESTONE

1940-1945 World War II forces many couture houses to close.

1947 Christian reestablishes Paris as fashion center; revives haute couture; replaces wartime austerity with the glamour of the “New Look” with tight waist, stiff petticoats, billowing skirts.

1950 Shoes have pointed toes, stiletto heels.

1954   &ULVWyEDO%DOHQFLDJDLQWURGXFHV³VHPL¿W´GUHVVHVZLWKVRIWURXQGVKRXOGHUVLVWKHFODVVLF designer of the 1950s.

Early 1960s 3LHUUH&DUGLQEHFRPHV¿UVWGHVLJQHUWROLFHQVHKLVQDPHIRUYDULRXVSURGXFWVLV¿UVWWR create ready-to-wear lines.

London boutique owner champions the youth movement; introduces mini-    VNLUWKRWSDQWVODXQFKHV7ZLJJ\DVVXSHUPRGHOEHFRPHVVPRVWLQÀXHQWLDOV designer.

1962 Yves St. Laurent opens fashion house; often uses ethnic inspirations; remains most classic modern designer, heir to , .

Mid-1960s  ,QÀXHQFHGE\URFNPXVLF³0RG´VFHQHPDNHV/RQGRQPDMRUIDVKLRQFHQWHUZLWKIXQ revolutionary clothes: bell bottoms, psychedelic prints, wild colors, dresses made of vinyl,    SDSHUFHOORSKDQHPHWDOFRYHUHGLQPLUURUVJRJRERRWVUXIÀHGVKLUWVIRUPHQ1HKUX jackets; fur vests

Rudi Gernreich creates “radical” fashion—topless , see-through blouse, “no bra” look

Calvin Klein begins producing elegant, simple clothes, favoring neural earth tones and luxurious fabrics.

1968 creates men’s wear line; expands into women’s wear; favors natural fabrics; designs feature western or country motifs.

1970   .QRZQDV+DOVWRQ5R\+DOVWRQ)URZLFNGRPLQDWHVVZLWKSDQWVXLWVVZHDWHUVHWV    IRUP¿WWLQJGUHVVHVNQLWZHDU

1974 creates men’s wear line; popularizes Italian tailoring.

1979 Claude Montana founds couture house; specializes in leather.

Early 1980s Japanese “school” of designers, including Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Rei Kawakubo, Hanae Mori, enjoy major couture success.

 INTERNATIONAL FASHION AWARDS

Coty Award (1943–1984) ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Developpe- New York ment des Arts de la Mode) Fashion Award (1989) coty.com/ Paris Coty’s parent company, announced that through their andam.fr/en/contest promotion of American fashion design and designers, Open to international applicants since 2005. the awards had successfully brought America into the Monetary award. ZRUOGZLGH IDVKLRQ VFHQH 7KLV KDG EHHQ WKH SULPDU\ reason for the Coty Awards’ creation, and as their work Atrium Award (1980) was complete it was decided to discontinue them. 8QLYHUVLW\ RI *HRUJLD 6FKRRO RI -RXUQDOLVP DQG AmericasMart Council of Fashion Designers of America (1962) Awarded for excellence in journalism coverage of the cfda.com/ garment industry. 5 award categories and, with Vogue, an endowment award for a promising designer. British Fashion Awards (1989) Dress of the Year (1963) britishfashionawards.co.uk/ Fashion Museum, Bath, England 15 award categories. fashionmuseum.co.uk/ 7KHVHOHFWHGRXW¿WLVGRQDWHGWRWKH)DVKLRQ0XVHXP British Inspiration Awards (2010) along with an Adel Rootstein mannequin to represent London that year’s total look. facebook.com/BritishInspirationAwards Dutch Fashion Awards (2007) Brit Insurance Design Awards (2003) Amsterdam London dutchfashionawards.com/ britinsurance.com/ An international jury selects which upcoming Dutch Monetary award that aims to stimulate public debate fashion designer they expect is most likely to bring his/ about design and to raise awareness of its role enhanc- her label onto the international market. ing the quality of daily life. (2002) Cameroon (2013) International global network Yaoundé elleuk.com http://cameroonacademyawards.com/ Multiple entertainment and fashion awards. $ZDUGVIRUDFKLHYHPHQWLQ¿OPPXVLFIDVKLRQVSRUWV and digital media. MANGO Fashion Awards (2007) Spain Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards (2014) mango.com/mfa/in/acerca.php 7RURQWR Offers a new media platform for emerging talents and cafawards.ca/ offer them the opportunity to produce and market their 11 award categories. collections. Includes monetary award, the largest in its category.

MTV Europe Music Award for Best Look (1994) Milan, Italy tv.mtvema.com/winners &DWHJRU\RI079(XURSH0XVLF$ZDUGV (0$V 

 FASHION CATEGORY INDEX

CEO HAIR STYLIST Angela Ahrendts, 5 Antoine, 23 7\UD%DQNV Sophia Amoruso, 19 Vidal Sassoon, 523 &KULVWLH%ULQNOH\ Bernard Arnault, 33 , 105 Pierre Bergè, 60 HANDBAG DESIGNER , 128 5RVH0DULH%UDYR -XGLWK/HLEHU , 146 Dov Charney, 124 Miuccia Prada, 485 Cameron Diaz, 165 Mossimo Giannulli, 235 Kate Spade, 546 -Majors, 194 7LP*XQQ Julie Verhoeven, 624 Margaux , 263 Jenna Lyons, 386 'MLPRQ+RXQVRX Manny Mashouf, 395 INTERIOR DESIGNER /DXUHQ+XWWRQ Jenny Ming, 424 5DFKHO$VKZHOO , 283 Amancio Ortega Gaona, 466 Mario Buatta, 83 Beverly Johnson, 305 Renzo Rosso, 505 Melanie Kahane, 309 Heidi Klum, 340 Geraldine Stutz, 565 Rene Russo, 508 .D\7KRPSVRQ JEWELRY DESIGNER Chloë Sevigny, 533 Ben Nighthorse Campbell, 100 , 539 COSMETICIAN -HDQQH7RXVVDLQW &KHU\O7LHJV Elizabeth Arden, 25 7ZLJJ\ JOURNALIST , 652 COSTUME DESIGNER Bert Bacharach, 44 Colleen Atwood, 39 7REp&ROOHU'DYLV NEEDLEWORKER , 80 Maggi McNellis, 414 Kaffe Fassett, 188 Barbara Karinska, 320 , 642 , 381 PHOTOGRAPHER , 390 MAGAZINE EDITOR William Klein, 336 Sandy Powell, 482 , 658 Helmut Newton, 458 Francesco Scavullo, 526 DOLL DESIGNER MEN’S DESIGNER 2OLYLHUR7RVFDQL Madame Alexander, 14 Giorgio Armani, 28 5REHUW7RQQHU Pierrre Cardin, 108 PUBLISHER , 331 John B. Fairchild, 182 EDITOR , 649 , 136 SEWING Carrie Donovan, 169 MEN’S AND WOMEN’S DESIGNER 0DU\%URRN3LFNHQ Kim Hastreiter, 259 7RP)RUG Grace Mirabella, 428 7RPP\+LO¿JHU WOMEN’S DESIGNER Shala Monroque, 443 Daymond John, 293 Adolfo, 3 Lesley Jane Seymour, 536 Ralph Lauren, 366 Azzedine Alaia, 9 $QGUH/HRQ7DOOH\ Mark McNairy, 411 Hardy Amies, 16 /L]7LOEHULV Nicole Miller, 421 Cristóbal Balenciaga, 46 9DOHQWLQR Pierre Alexandre Balmain, 49 EXECUTIVE Gianni Versace, 631 , 56 Mildred Custin, 150 Sara Blakely, 65 Eileen Ford, 208 MILLINERY , 68 Andrew Goodman, 245 -RKQ3-RKQ 0DUF%RKDQ Estée Lauder, 360 Sally Josephs Victor, 636 7RU\%XUFK