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TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 68 Greene Street - Soho | 5th Ave. at 54th Street WWDMILESTONES $6 BILLION DEAL TAHARI New Owners AT 40 For Neiman’s SECTION II By EVAN CLARK

THE CLOCK HAS been reset at the Neiman Marcus Group. The luxe chain is getting a new lease on life and new owners willing to pump in “meaningful capital” as it ventures further into the omnichannel future and weighs global strategic options. But the $6 billion deal to be acquired by Ares Management LLC and the Canada Pension Plan Investment Board means Neiman’s might WWD have to carry more debt and face another sale or initial public offering down the road. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

Malibu

For now, David Kaplan, senior partner and cohead of the private equity group at Ares, told WWD that there are plans to put Tom my more money into the retailer for the next fi ve Tommy Hilfi ger sent out some good vibrations years and that the new owners would be in Monday morning with an energetic collection lockstep with Neiman’s president and chief inspired by California beach life. “We brought executive offi cer Karen Katz. “We are partnering with Karen and her Malibu to New York,” said the designer, team,” Kaplan said during a joint interview who wasn’t just referring to the with Katz. “We plan to operate this as a busi- set’s boardwalk and sandy dunes. ness — not as a fi nancial engineering experi- He delivered many interpretations SPRING 2014 ence. That is not at all what we do. We are on scuba suits, including this very focused on the top line and growing this leather bomber jacket shown with NEW YORK company, its top line and its cash. This is not a swimsuit and silk boxer shorts. COLLECTIONS about taking real estate, fl ipping it, chang- For more from the shows, ing it. That’s not what we’re about. We have a see pages 8 to 12. very long-term approach.” Kaplan, who is chairman of 99 Cents Only Stores and has a long history of investing in the retail and consumer space, offered few specifi cs on Neiman’s future. But he did say the new owners would be investing in the stores as well as technology and other initia- tives “that would help continue to elevate and keep the Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman brands where they belong — which is at the pinnacle of the luxury pyramid.” Kaplan said the company was known around the globe and that although there

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 WWD.COM

Tiffany Names Design Director THE BRIEFING BOX lack of consumer confidence. This has been exacer- By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD bated by the increased cost of gold and silver.” IN TODAY’S WWD The ceo said the luxury space had “benefited” NEW YORK — Tiffany, meet Francesca. from an economic “tailwind” prior to the downturn, British jewelry designer Francesca Amfitheatrof but now, in order to “grow,” Tiffany must expand its has been named design director of Tiffany & Co. “product innovation and new marketing.” Backstage at the The job had been vacant since celebrated design The jeweler, which uses mainly silver and plati- Carolina Herrera director John Loring retired from the post, which num, set out on that path when it introduced Rubedo, a show. For more, he held from 1979 to 2009. Loring became design recently developed copper-centric alloy. But the brand see WWD.com. director emeritus following his departure, and will isn’t moving downscale; in fact, it’s planning on moving retain that title. Amfitheatrof, who will oversee up prices and infusing more gold into its pieces. a team of 23 people, will report to executive vice Although Amfitheatrof ’s first real influence on a president Jon King, who oversees design. collection won’t likely be seen until next year, the In an exclusive interview, Tiffany chairman and brand said the designer, who began working from chief executive officer Michael Kowalski told WWD: the New York headquarters on Thursday, will have “If you look at our history, there have been times input on strategy moving forward, even though her when design has been directed by people who have primary focus is product. a public presence and also times when that’s not the “We all want things to happen as soon as possi- case. As we’ve expanded globally, we thought this was ble,” Amfitheatrof said. “Everyone is very keen for the right time to bring on Francesca.” a chapter to open up…for brand new The ceo said his company had “seri- collections…and new lines from exist- ing collections.”

ously” been on the lookout for someone ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY to fill Loring’s shoes for about a year. At first blush Amfitheatrof ’s past cre- Although the jeweler never worked with ations — which include an elasticated Amfitheatrof before, Kowalski said he was sterling silver necklace that looks a bit impressed by her résumé, which includes like a delicate string of mini slinkies TPG and Warburg Pincus have agreed to a $6 billion deal designing collections for Chanel, Fendi and a bracelet she created for Chanel to sell Neiman Marcus Group to Ares Management and a and Marni, as well as for private clients. made of a sterling silver perforated disk Canadian pension fund. Page 1 Amfitheatrof, whose wares have sold at with an onyx bead atop an elastic band Colette in Paris and the Museum of Modern — may not fit the Tiffany mold. But the British jewelry designer Francesca Amfitheatrof has been Art in New York, most recently served as designer said of all the brands she’s named the next design director of Tiffany & Co. Page 2 founding partner of RS&A, a London-based ever worked with, Tiffany “feels closer” firm representing contemporary artists. Francesca Amfitheatrof to her “personal style.” PVH Corp. expects continuing headwinds in southern Europe What drew Tiffany to Amfitheatrof was her “The synergy between my design and ongoing investments in the Calvin Klein businesses to training as a jewelry designer and silver- aesthetic and Tiffany’s is that we have limit its second-half profitability. Page 2 a certain clarity and likeness, a certain purity that I smith, the ceo said, referring to the importance of silver to the brand’s entry-priced fashion collections, which have in my work,” she said. “Of course, Tiffany has Time Inc., range from $200 to a few thousand dollars. some very well-known existing lines that are part of under new chief executive officer Joseph Ripp, In addition to strong craftsmanship, Kowalski their DNA that I would like to work on.…That’s not is expected to purchase American Express Publishing’s five highlighted Amfitheatrof ’s global experience and to say that I wouldn’t like to start new collections.” magazines this week. Page 6 ability to design for a wide range of categories, The designer said she hopes to “challenge the from jewelry and eyewear to home and handbags. Tiffany customer” by mixing materials such as gold Organizers and exhibitors at the upcoming Texworld and Amfitheatrof ’s clean, yet modern aesthetic will and silver with white enamel and wood. Première Vision trade shows aim to take signs of an upswing likely infuse a more fashion-forward look into the “I want to really surprise people,” she said, and ride them into increased interest for fall. Page 14 jeweler’s collections, which is a primary focus for noting that she’s already drawn inspiration from the brand going forward. Tiffany’s post-World War II collections. “I’d love to The Woolmark Co. is set to unveil a new washable wool Although in its most recent quarter the retailer bring in the fashion-conscious consumer. We want campaign meant to freshen up the image of the fabric. Page 15 posted better-than-expected second-quarter earn- to be leaders and we want customers to follow us.” ings that rose 16.3 percent to $106.8 million, Tiffany With that in mind, Amfitheatrof hopes to revamp The size of Kering’s stake in Altuzarra is about 40 percent, called out the need to improve its fashion jewelry Tiffany’s somewhat conservative handbag line, as according to financial and market sources. Page 16 collection. With the bulk of its growth coming from well as shake up its eyewear collection, which is Asia — specifically Greater China — as well as its produced by Luxottica Group, and its tabletop busi- Justin Bieber was front and center at Opening Ceremony’s fine and statement jewelry lines, Kowalski noted ness. The designer, who helped launch eyewear debut runway show on Sunday night at Pier 57. Page 17 that the brand must concentrate on strengthening its for Marni, underlined that she isn’t abandoning U.S. business and lower-priced pieces. That’s where Tiffany’s heritage, which is known for its classic, Oscar de la Renta has been busy putting the finishing touches high-end, gem-encrusted jewelry. Amfitheatrof will play the most immediate role. on his newly expanded New York store. Page 18 “Since 2007, 2008, our statement sales, higher- “I don’t have a snobbishness to materials. I

price-point sales have done just fine,” Kowalski said. love designing for the high end as much as I do “The pressure that we’ve felt has come from the the lower end. I love wearing the stuff together,” Signs of a recovery of the Italian fashion industry are coming lower price point and that’s come from the customer, Amfitheatrof said. “Having said that, I have no into view, but not before 2014. Page 18 who has felt pressure…higher unemployment and a problem wearing diamonds for breakfast.” Coach Inc. finished in the top 10 for both issue resolution and ‘time to live agent’ in a study of online chat services by StellaService. Page 19

PVH Affirms Guidance for Full Year Haberdash will open a third unit in Chicago later this month Reacting to the cautious guidance, issued upon — in the South Loop at the Roosevelt Collection. Page 19 By ARNOLD J. KARR the close of the stock market on Monday, investors sent shares down $4.86, or 3.7 percent, to $127.25 in PVH CORP. expects continuing headwinds in south- after-hours trading following a trading day in which ON WWD.COM ern Europe and ongoing investments in the Calvin they’d risen $2.14, or 1.7 percent, to $132.11. Klein businesses acquired from The Warnaco In the three months ended Aug. 4, the owner of RUNWAY: For the latest collections, front row and backstage Group Inc. to limit its second-half profitability. the Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Izod brands photos from New York Fashion Week, see WWD.com. Reporting second-quarter results that beat ana- reported a net loss of $16 million, or 20 cents a di- lysts’ expectations on both the top and bottom lines, luted share, versus net income of $89.9 million, or the New York-based firm held to its guidance for $1.22, in the comparable 2012 period. Subtracting TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS full-year adjusted earnings of $7 a diluted share costs related to the acquisition and integration of [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. and initiated guidance for adjusted earnings per Warnaco Group assets, adjusted EPS was $1.39. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. share of $2.20 in the third quarter. Revenues increased 47 percent to $1.96 billion from VOLUME 206, NO. 52. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Both were below consensus estimates, which $1.34 billion. Reflecting the shift in Warnaco’s figures additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance began the day at $7.14 and $2.30, respectively. from royalty-generating licensees to sales-generating Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, “Our integration efforts and investments in the assets, sales rose 54.5 percent to $1.88 billion while roy- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. 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Calvin Klein’s North You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt businesses acquired when PVH bought Warnaco for American retail business registered a 6 percent in- of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request $2.9 billion earlier this year. crease in comparable sales while wholesale opera- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at He added that guidance for the year was being tions experienced double-digit growth. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. 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THE BUYERS Neiman Marcus to Be Sold for $6B Q Los Angeles-based {Continued from page one} is a good asset. It’s not like it’s a ing today and benefit from infla- long into recession and finan- Ares Management has are no specific plans, “there layup, but it’s relatively low risk.” tion down the road. cial crisis. The private equity roughly $66 billion in probably are opportunities to Despite some concerns about Ares and the pension plan firms ended up holding on to committed capital and a grow internationally.” where the luxe department store, will have matching minority Neiman’s for far longer than ex- history in the consumer Ares and the pension plan which has more or less saturated stakes in Neiman’s and will to- pected and had also filed for an space, having invested in are putting “a significant its home market, can find addi- gether control most of the firm. IPO earlier this year in case a Floor & Decor, General amount of capital” into the deal, tional growth, the investment has Management currently owns buyer never materialized. Nutrition Centers, House which is slated to close in the several things going for it. a small portion of the compa- Observers saw the sale as a of Blues, Maidenform, fourth quarter. It’s not clear how Saks is just about to be ac- ny and will continue to hold a decent, if delayed, exit for TPG Samsonite, Serta, much of the purchase price will quired by Hudson’s Bay Co., which stake. The exact percentages and Warburg, which last year also Simmons, Smart & Final be paid with new debt. Prior to leaves a key competitor dealing were not revealed. took a special dividend of nearly and 99 Cents Only Stores. the deal, Neiman’s had debt of with a possible change in manage- The deal was struck early $450 million out of the retailer. David Kaplan is senior $3.39 billion. ment as well as turmoil related to Monday morning after an all- Like TPG and Warburg, partner and cohead of A financial source familiar its integration into another com- night session and marks the Neiman’s future owners are also the private equity group. with the deal and the players de- pany. And some Saks stores might end of a long road for TPG and betting on an overall improving scribed Ares as “financial inves- be converted to Lord & Taylor’s, Warburg Pincus, which bought trend in luxury. tors” who had a very successful potentially clearing the field for Neiman’s for $5.1 billion in 2005. Kaplan said, “If you take a investment in GNC, but “don’t re- Neiman’s in certain markets. TPG and Warburg bought long-term perspective, and cer- ally know the apparel business.” The buyers can also get a into a robust and expanding tainly there are always bumps The firm has also invested in good deal of inexpensive financ- luxury market, but ran head- {Continued on page 6} Floor & Decor, House of Blues, Maidenform Brands, Samsonite, Q The Canada Pension Serta, Simmons, Smart & Final Plan Investment Board is and 99 Cents Only Stores. the investment manager “They pay up for good busi- for funds not needed by nesses,” the source said. “What the Canadian Pension Ares is paying is difficult to un- Plan. The Toronto- derstand frankly, but it is what based firm invests in it is and they wanted to do a big public and private deal. There was a big drop-off equities, real estate, between what Ares was going to infrastructure and fixed pay and what everyone else was income instruments. It is going to pay.” managed independently There were other parties in- of the Pension Plan and terested in Neiman’s this year, at arm’s length from the including Holt Renfrew, CVC and government and has Saks Inc., which was working 188.9 billion Canadian with KKR & Co. to buy the Dallas- dollars, or $181.4 billion based retailer and create a much at current exchange. larger group focused on luxury. André Bourbonnais The Saks talks broke down over serves as senior vice price, which, as reported, was president of private said to be close to $6 billion. investments at the firm. One banker said of Ares, “They’re nice guys, but they haven’t done a ton here of scale, so it’s really hard to see where The firm operates 41 Neiman Marcus doors. PHOTO BY JOE RAEDLE/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY things may end up. [Neiman’s] ··

have fantastic relationships in the business, such as e-commerce Vendors Mostly Upbeat on Changes the marketplace and we’re ral- and internationally. “Anybody buy- lying for them and will be very ing it knows they’re buying a mar- rary space. That could be good or Andrew Rosen, ceo of Theory, supportive,” said Roland. quee name. They’ve been amazing By VICKI M. YOUNG bad. If a merchandising change said, “I hear these guys [at Ares] Other vendors also hope partners. I’m just happy with the and LISA LOCKWOOD results in a brand losing some are really good retailers. Neiman they won’t see major changes turn of events and to keep them square footage at either retailer, Marcus has an incredible manage- in Neiman’s once the $6 billion intact. There’s no reason why both VENDORS generally react- it might be hard to find another ment group, Ken [Downing, fashion acquisition deal goes through, Saks and Neiman’s can’t exist.” ed positively to the news that retail account to make up for the director] is terrific as is Jim [Gold, since they feel the retailer’s “It comes down to the people Neiman Marcus Group is chang- loss, one financial source said. president of specialty retail]. With brand image is valuable. running the store,” said Bud ing hands, although there was Another financial source said Neiman’s and Saks, all this Konheim, ceo of Nicole Miller. caution over the fact that it’s the Neiman’s growth is in its Last shift in retailing is healthy and He explained that historically second luxury retailer to see Call outlet concept, while Saks’ exciting. Doing things the way Neiman’s wants when there have been retail new ownership after Hudson’s expansion is likely overseas and you used to do them isn’t going ownership changes, there Bay Co.’s bid to acquire Saks Inc. its outlet business, Saks Off 5th. to work anymore.” have been shifts in empha- An executive from one factor- J. Michael Stanley, managing di- Mark Weber, chairman those luxury sis when the people changed. ing firm, who requested anonym- rector at factoring firm Rosenthal and ceo of Donna Karan “Speculation is really a futile ity, said whenever there’s a sale, & Rosenthal, doesn’t see any major International and ceo of LVMH brands. It wants exercise. Everything is Wall the new owners always want to changes ahead for Neiman’s. He U.S., said, “I think change is Street economics at this stage show they can grow the business. said, “Neiman’s wants those luxu- good. The most important thing those partnerships. of the game. What it boils down “One of my concerns is that to ry brands. It wants those partner- is they retain the people who to is what effect will it have on push growth, there is an increase ships. That’s what it’s known for, brought them to this position. the customer coming into the in lower-price merchandise or an and it hunts for the best and new- They’re passionate about this I think the sale of store? If the customer likes it increase in floor space for young- est brands available. I think the business. I know they work better, business will go up.” er, more contemporary designers, sale of the company is fundamen- hard and they’re very talented.” the company is He said when they changed which in turn could mean taking tally good for everyone.” Pamella Roland, president top management at J.C. Penney away space from the designer cat- Jeff Kappelman, co-chief and designer of her namesake fundamentally good Co. Inc., “it all went south. egory,” this individual said. executive officer at Hilldun designer sportswear and eve- Could that happen to Neiman Walter Loeb, a former retail Factors, said he expects ningwear collection, said, “This Marcus? Of course. It’s about analyst and now consultant, Neiman’s to continue to function is really positive for Neiman for everyone. the people,” said Konheim. said, “As new owners, the finan- as it has been, given that existing Marcus — they can now focus — J. MICHAEL STANLEY, He recalled something that cial firms who bought Neiman’s management is expected to stay on the business at hand and re- ROSENTHAL & ROSENTHAL Phil Kelly, former ceo of and Hudson’s Bay, which is ac- on at the luxury retailer. As for main laser-focused on serving Garfinckels in Washington, quiring Saks, would each want Saks, “I think the Saks aesthetic their luxury customer.” D.C., once told him that applies sales volume and profits. To get will become the spearhead for She said Ares Management has “I am just relieved with the turn to this day. “It’s all about what’s there, it might mean offering Hudson’s Bay, so the new owner “a strong history in investing in of events and the way it still is,” in the store. We’re storekeepers. more popular priced merchan- will want to preserve that aes- strong brands, infusing them with said Josie Natori. “We still have “When they lose sight of that, dise. The question is, where is thetic identity. New ownership capital and helping them capture Saks Fifth Avenue and we still and it becomes a great Wall Street the growth for these firms?” in both firms could reinvigorate a real leadership position. have Neiman Marcus. It’s good maneuver, they’re kidding them- While both Neiman’s and Saks all aspects of [luxury retailing].” “This infusion of capital will to have it set and now they can selves. I think Neiman Marcus are considered luxury firms, they Yeohlee Teng said, “I think give Neiman Marcus the op- focus on the business. I don’t know occupies a special place in don’t necessarily sell the same that while consolidation is inevi- portunity to grow and expand anyone who would buy·· Neiman American retail mythology. It goes brands. That’s because Neiman’s table, the result can be finer than and that’s good for all of its ven- Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue to all the way back to ‘his and her’ caters to customers who are, on expected.” She cited the great dors,” said Roland. change the emphasis. Rather, they elephants. It had Stanley Marcus average, older than their Saks leadership team at HBC, which “Neiman Marcus’ manage- will maximize it further. branding and still has it. What counterparts. Neiman’s carries will likely have some influence at ment team is top notch, so it will “Neiman Marcus is an amazing they do with it is up to the new more designer brands, while Saks Saks once it becomes a part of the be business as usual from a ven- enterprise,” said Natori, noting management. Neiman Marcus has focuses more in the contempo- Canadian firm’s umbrella. dor-merchant standpoint. They there are places they can expand tremendous brand equity.” Culture. Fashion. Quality.

The Luxury Issue November 3, 2013 Reservations Deadline: September 19 Materials Deadline: September 26 To advertise, please contact Meredith Kopit Levien [email protected] 212 556 1149 nytimes.com/tmagazine

6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 WWD.COM contemporary stores. The firm’s “I’m always ·· concerned when growing Web operations gener- private equity buys a compa- Ares and CPPIB to Acquire Neiman’s ate nearly $1 billion in revenues ny like Neiman’s,” said Gary {Continued from page 4} million. That puts the purchase ed merchandise assortment,” she annually. Unlike Saks, which is Wassner, co-ceo of Hilldun along the road, but if you take a price at an EBITDA multiple of said. “Our customer service re- real estate rich, Neiman’s owns Factors. “Their objectives are five- to 10-year perspective, the 9.6 times. That compares with mains the most important thing.” only six of its namesake doors, clear and their windows are global luxury goods market is the 10.4-times multiple HBC paid The ceo said there’s an op- although it has other owned narrow. I don’t fault them. It’s going to have some fairly robust for Saks, although analysts said portunity for the company to stores subject to ground leases. their business model. I just wish growth and our view is that where post-synergies, the multiple was roll out more of its smaller Last Arnold Aronson, manag- that Neiman’s could have been Neiman Marcus Group sits today closer to 7.6 times. Sources said Call outlet stores. ing director of retail strate- bought by a retailer or a compa- in the market, its positioning, the both multiples would be reduced Asked about a possible ex- gies at Kurt Salmon, said the ny that wants to be involved for relevancy of the brand and the further factoring in the value of pansion into Canada, where deal would continue to “keep the long term. Changes in own- channel of distribution to the con- sumer, that it is well positioned to participate in that macro growth.” THE MANAGEMENT He also said Neiman’s has We are very the opportunity to take share as Neiman Marcus’ management will have an undisclosed stake in the company after the buyout. the omnichannel business model Here’s a look at their holdings alongside of TPG and Warburg Pincus, according to a regulatory filing. becomes more refined across the focused on the marketplace and at Neiman’s. STOCK AND OPTIONS PERCENT OF SHARES In the regulatory filing top line and for its IPO, Neiman’s cited Karen Katz President and Chief 15,107 1.5 Euromonitor research showing Executive Officer growing this that the global luxury goods mar- ket expanded at a compounded Burton M. Tansky Director 14,421 1.4 annual growth rate of 4.2 percent company, its top since 2005 and was set to perk James Skinner Executive Vice President, 7,713 < 1 up. “The global luxury goods in- Chief Operating Officer, line and its cash. dustry is expected to grow from Chief Financial Officer $302 billion in 2012 to $427 bil- — DAVID KAPLAN, lion in 2017, representing a com- James Gold President, Specialty Retail 6,508 < 1 ARES MANAGEMENT pounded annual growth rate of 7.2 percent,” the company said. John Koryl President, Neiman Marcus Direct 866 < 1 For the 12 months ended April 27, Neiman’s revenues gained Thomas Lind Senior Vice President, 1,587 < 1 ership inevitably lead to man- 6.5 percent to $4.5 billion and Chief Operating Officer, agement shake-ups and perspec- boiled down to adjusted earn- Glamour Sales tival changes as well.” ings before interest, taxes, depre- SOURCE: SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION FILING, OPTIONS EXERCISABLE WITH 60 DAYS OF JUNE 24. J. Michael Stanley, manag- ciation and amortization of $623 ing director at factoring firm Rosenthal & Rosenthal, isn’t nec- real estate assets — Neiman’s Nordstrom Inc. is branching Neiman’s out of the quarterly essarily bothered by the flip to an- Karen to 8.5 times and Saks, which out, Katz said, “As we’re explor- glare of the public marketplace other financial sponsor. “What’s Katz owns much more of its real es- ing opportunities for the next and gives them more running going to happen for Neiman’s is tate, including the valuable Fifth few years, we’ll take everything room to do their own thing. that the new owners are going to Avenue flagship, at 3 times. under consideration.” “They might not be able to want growth and performance,” André Bourbonnais, senior Once the deal closes, she will build more stores in the United he said. “Their reality·· is a three- vice president of private invest- have new owners to run those States, but the name Neiman’s to five-year timeline. As a factor ments at the Canadian fund, said, kinds of possibilities by. is a brand that has potential,” lending to clients, I’m less con- “The company’s strong market po- “They are very open to re- Aronson said. “Without a strong cerned [about who the owner is] sition, combined with an expect- ally talking about what are the brand name, there’s really nothing because I’m looking at [whether to ed increase in U.S. luxury goods opportunities on a long-term to really pin your hopes on. This lend] on a case-by-case basis.” spending, provide attractive op- basis,” Katz said. “That’s what’s is more what you could call a sure Credit Suisse advised portunities for future growth.” gotten myself as well as the and steady kind of investment.” Neiman’s on the deal and RBC Katz, who was in New York Neiman Marcus management The investment does leave one Capital Markets and Deutsche for fashion week, said in the in- team very excited about this major question lingering: What Bank Securities Inc. worked terview that shoppers wouldn’t change in our ownership.” happens when it’s time for Ares with Ares and CPPIB. The ad- notice the change of ownership The company has 41 Neiman and the pension fund to move on? visers will all help finance the in the stores. Marcus doors, two Bergdorf Financial sponsors typically transaction with debt. “We’re going to remain very fo- Goodman locations, 35 Last Call hold their investment for five to — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS cused on delivering the best-edit- off-price locations and six Cusp seven years before exiting. FROM VICKI M. YOUNG

Wine and Travel & Leisure in 2012 was coherent corporate strategy for the new on the fashion and social circuits. 3,023 pages, a 7 percent decline from the publicly traded company. When designers and influential MEMO PAD year before, when they carried 3,257, American Express and Time Inc. personalities in the industry wanted a according to Media Industry Newsletter. declined comment Monday. — ERIK MAZA big platform for a piece of news, they BUYING MODE?: New Time Inc. chief Food & Wine, with a little more than went to Cho, who was the only traditional executive officer Joseph Ripp has had a busy 1,000 pages last year, led the pack. NO MORE STYLE FOR CHO: CNN is out of television personality devoting few days since he formally assumed his Food & Wine ended the first half with fashion. substantial air time to fashion coverage. role last week. A few new initiatives have a circulation of 944,000, while Travel & The network has canceled Alina Cho’s Despite the loss of her program, Cho since trickled out, but the most ambitious Leisure had 972,000, according to the regular specials, “Fashion: Backstage has kept up with her style duties by is expected to come this week when Time Alliance for Audited Media. InStyle, on Pass,” and it’s also passed on renewing tweeting pictures from various shows purchases American Express Publishing’s the other hand, one of the few Time Inc. the national correspondent’s contract. over the last few days. After a dinner for five magazines, including Departures and titles that consistently carries luxury A spokeswoman for CNN described the MAC Cosmetics, she tweeted at dinner Food & Wine. advertising, had 2,648 pages last year, parting as mutual. companions Kelly Osbourne and Kelly Though as of Monday afternoon a according to MIN, and a circulation “Alina Cho is a terrific reporter and Bensimon. “SO FUN, ladies!” — E.M. formal agreement had not been signed, of about 1.8 million. If the deal goes host. We thank her for all her work at Ripp is likely to broach the subject through, Departures, which is published CNN over the last decade and wish her PARTNERS: Harper’s Bazaar and Yoox Wednesday when he faces his first all- seven times a year and is mailed to every success on her next endeavor,” the Group have signed an agreement hands-on-deck meeting as ceo. Platinum and Centurion cardholders, spokeswoman said. that will establish Yoox Group as the Conversations to buy Amex’s and Black Ink, a biannual that goes CNN retains the trademark rights to primary partner of ShopBazaar.com, a magazines preceded Ripp’s appointment to just those with Centurion cards, the specials, but it’s unclear how it might content-to-commerce online store that and have been ongoing for about six will continue to be available only to be used in the future. The spokeswoman allows readers to shop the pages of the months, according to sources. But cardholders, so at the very least they’ll said the network will continue to cover magazine. Products for sale are chosen American Express is a company Ripp continue to enjoy the luxury of ignoring the fashion industry as news arises. by Bazaar’s editors. “As pioneers in the knows well. In 1993, when he was senior the pressures of the newsstand. AAM “I am so thankful for all of the luxury e-commerce space, we’re excited vice president, chief financial officer and does not track Departures or Black Ink. opportunities CNN has given me over the about this new partnership, marking the treasurer, Time signed an agreement In the last week, Time Inc. has also last decade,” Cho said over e-mail. “Along next step for the first true experience with Amex Publishing to handle its introduced a new ad product called the way, I have found that I am passionate of seamless shoppable content in the business operations. Additionally, before Engage that allows advertisers to about fashion and hope to announce publishing industry via our innovative he was named ceo, Ripp sat on the board capitalize on the publisher’s subscriber something very soon that involves style retail model,” said Federico Marchetti, of Amex’s publishing arm. The New York data and a tiered subscription plan for coverage on multiple platforms.” founder and chief executive officer of Yoox Post first reported the news Monday People magazine. The plan includes CNN had extensive fashion coverage Group, which also operates monobrand afternoon, estimating the price tag of the just-digital subscriptions, as well as a through the Eighties and Nineties with e-commerce sites such as armani.com purchase at less than $100 million. “VIP” package that offers readers perks, “Style With Elsa Klensch,” but canceled and zegna.com. The Hearst title dove The portfolio would be a small like “three editorially curated gift boxes that program in 2001. Cho came to the headfirst into ecommerce a year ago with addition in comparison with the 21 per year tied to People franchises.” network in 2004 and contributed to a its shoppable magazine pages platform. At U.S. magazines Time Inc., the country’s Time Warner recently pushed the number of programs there. In 2011, she the time of the launch, Bazaar partnered largest publisher, already owns. announced spin-off of the publishing started hosting regular specials on the with Saks Fifth Avenue. Bazaar said its The combined advertising haul of division to early next year from this fall fashion industry and piggybacked on the inaugural retail partnership with Saks Departures, Executive Travel, Food & to allow Ripp more space to settle on a broad reach of CNN to become a fixture ended in June. — SHARON EDELSON February 17-20, 2014 LAS VEGAS www.magiconline.com

Model: Susannah Liguori/IMG See What The World Will Be Wearing 8 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

Tommy Hilfiger: Turning the West Side into a West Coast Carolina Herrera Donna Karan fantasy, Tommy Hilfiger transformed the cold blank canvas that is Pier 94 into a beach replete with dunes, surfboards and a wooden boardwalk-cum-runway. It was quite challenging for high- heeled guests to navigate, but the set nevertheless impressed — a perfect backdrop for the designer’s fresh new take on Americana. “We brought Malibu to New York,” Hilfiger said backstage before the show. “It’s about ‘Westcoasting,’ the inspiration of the California lifestyle from Melrose to Malibu. Surfing, skating, sporty, colorful, modern, beautiful.” While the music mix was all about California (“California Girls,” “Californication,” etc.), the lineup was much more beach babe than bum, with Hilfiger interpreting the scuba suit in several sexy variations. Among the best were color- blocked polo shirtdresses and tops in leather, and a skirt and a pair of pants that appeared unzipped, as if the models had just emerged from a deep- diving expedition. They, along with a voluminous cropped sweater worn with Daisy Dukes, demonstrated ample street cred. The colors were fresh — aquas and sun-kissed reds and oranges — and drove home the theme. Although Hilfiger mostly stuck to a singular aesthetic, his looser interpretations were executed with aplomb, including cool basketball tank dresses and a sweet Hawaiian-print shirt with olive-colored shorts. “Good Vibrations,” indeed.

The Row: The mood was set by endless muslin curtains that turned a gallery space in SoHo into a labyrinth of intimate chambers. The Row’s clothes are nothing if not intimate, feeling as luxe to the wearer as they look to the observer, without a trace of visual cacophony. In recent seasons, designers Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have focused on intensifying their visual interest without sacrificing a bit of that intimacy and calm. For spring, they delivered a study in grace. Their idea was to draw from “true American New York Colle culture,” according to Mary- Kate, even if the first germ DESIGNERS WERE OFF of an idea came from photos of white-clad Indian people AND RUNNING — TO THE during British colonial rule. BEACH, THE MARINA, “We wanted to focus on true American culture, which is about THE GARDEN, THE taking elements from different GALLERY — AS FASHION cultures all over the world and bringing them together.” WEEK ROARED ON. The two did so lightly, incorporating obvious global references without ever approaching that line where literal interpretation turns to irrevocable costume. They opened with a pair Some looks came swathed Donna Karan: It’s no secret that looking as inviting as their sunrises…and sunbaked” — all of dark tailored looks and a under macramé wraps; others Donna Karan loves the look stated inspiration of blue water codes not for rich russets, yellows black dress, passementerie and were finished with floor-length and spirit behind artisanal and skies. Lean dresses were and reds, but brown. Brown and tassel belts the first discreet veils. Throughout, huge, draped craftsmanship from the far kept relaxed via fabric selection more brown (and some terra- indications of the artisanal cross-body bags were integral to reaches of the world. As a — stretch jersey and georgette cotta), some block-printed with textures to come. These were the silhouette. designer, she’s increasingly — and Karan’s graceful, slit- black. It was not only a downer, followed by a group of russet For all their texture and drawn to celebrating such work. to-there paneled cuts and low- but one too familiar — which dresses and skirts, some artful pilings, the clothes Karan’s program notes for slung wide brown leather belts is a shame, as many of Karan’s with intricately embroidered retained the essential urbane her spring collection promised added to the earthy elan. The shapes, particularly the soigné bodices, some in leaf prints and chic that has made The Row an urbane exploration: “How to block prints and a hand-painted gowns, were beautiful. diamond jacquards. resonate so powerfully with turn the sensuality and ease of python jacket looked enticing As for Karan’s accessories, There was endless layering, tony women who value chic a hand-blocked scarf into a chic in their mesmerizing blue hues, they looked great — the bold often in multiple whites, over trends. Women, by the urban wardrobe of day-into- while a short embroidered belts and metal and leather gorgeous in their controlled way, who will love the Olsens’ night options.” wrap skirt worn with a silk skirt jewelry, and her apparent gauziness — lace dress over suggestion for footwear: simple At the start, she delivered injected a sporty element. favorite: a terrific big cutwork pants; poncho over dress; loafers and mules, handmade beautifully, her languid dresses All oh so lovely. Then came shopper she liked enough to embroidered mesh over jersey. by Enzo Bonafè. and separates in moody indigos palette part two, the “sunsets and carry for her bow. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 9 WWD.COM

Tommy The Row Ralph Rucci Hilfiger

ctions

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY

Carolina Herrera: Carolina The second kinetic effect was bohemian sensibility, which felt Rucci, who recently black velvet one shown over Herrera built her spring layering, with many looks veiled fresh for Herrera. dropped the Chado from his a simple white jersey dress. collection around the kinetic art in filmy organza. Some were label, worked a sophisticated These pieces were executed movement, which is based on done in juxtaposing patterns to Ralph Rucci: Quiet as the changes edge, infusing the lineup with with sleek sophistication and motion, specifically the work of add depth and dimension to the might have been, they were modernity, from a greater a touch of mid-Nineties chic, Venezuelan artists Carlos Cruz- optical prints; others flaunted hard to escape at Ralph Rucci, rotation of sportswear cut down to the strings that dangled Diez and Jesús Rafael Soto. lovely embellishments such as who continues to move his lean to the body to his chic, from many of the looks, which, Of course, Herrera’s geometric embroideries and aesthetic into younger terrain. minimalist palette of black, whether deliberate or not, signature polished elegance organic-looking jewelry. The The show’s production itself white and nude; cool wide subtly winked at Helmut Lang. still stood, but here infused light layers gave the clothes reflected the evolution. The diamond bands accessorized For evening, Rucci piled with the artistic references, a nice sense of ease and models walked the gleaming every model’s finger. on bold surface details, but which she worked twofold. movement, tying back to the white runway at a faster clip The designer riffed on the effect never overpowered. First, through prints, such as a kinetic theme in a nonliteral way. than past seasons, when the layering, transparency and Highlights included two series of thin striped patterns Through the earthy palette of pace was sometimes painfully architectural shapes (not just cocktail dresses covered in that had optical effect on long ivory, clay, green and purple, and slow. This brought on a new his signature cocoon coats). large sequins and a slinky black organza gowns, a smart shift an emphasis on the ethereal, the energy — one that was also felt The most interesting details beaded gown with sheer sleeves dress and even a bikini. collection had an understated in the clothes. came via aprons, including a that closed the show. 10 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

Band of Outsiders 3.1 Phillip Lim Theyskens’ Theory Zac Posen

SPRING 2014 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Band of Outsiders: The triple tenets — futuristic white leather shift trimmed youthful vitality, to mostly good results. chiffon overlay down the front, giving it a California, preppy and geek-squad with Western fringe at the shoulders. He said in his show notes that the multidimensional feel. It was also used as coolness — of Scott Sternberg’s highly But often the stark silhouettes layering of prints and color tonalities the animal print on a Neoprene jacquard stylized vision for Band of Outsiders and the would-be hippie attitude of were meant to evoke a modern-day coat worn over a double-face silk T-shirt were well-represented for spring. This psychedelic patterns and crafty details Sarah Bernhardt, the famous French and shorts, as well as a seriously luxe time the twist (can’t forget the twist) were at a standoff, with the stiff stuff actress from the Belle Epoque period. white python dress. came from watching Robert Altman’s ultimately overpowering. A little Posen’s soft palette, flounced ruffles As a casual lifestyle line that’s “The Long Goodbye,” and its female relaxation was in order. and satin corsetry were cases in point. heavily rooted in denim, Lippes took lead Nina van Pallandt, whom Sternberg His opening look, a pale pink sleeveless a Japanese denim with a hardy weft, described as “a Malibu noir goddess.” Theyskens’ Theory: One of Olivier dress in hand-plissé silk, flowed softly cut it apart and reembroidered it back A successful mash-up of the bohemian Theyskens’ big consistencies at Theory to the knees from the curves and together into a great pair of culottes and and classic West Coast outdoorsy- has been street moodiness dominated swirls they formed around the bodice. a boxy top that felt as fresh as the breeze ness resulted in lace-up ponchos and by black. It still loomed large in much It nodded to the designer’s reference blowing through the terrace doors. maxiskirts done in techy nylon, and of his spring lineup, but this time the while still appearing modern. two great ombré floral-printed trenches runway backdrop was a bright pink wall An evening number was less Todd Snyder: Inspired by the over long skirts. Sternberg also met and the opening looks were styled with successful — the wisteria-printed silk Mediterranean Sea and the movie his challenge to “find something new skinny neon shorts and tops peeking out blouse dowdily fell in tiers around the “Purple Noon,” Todd Snyder blended a in preppyisms” with scarf prints from the sheer, dark layers. shoulders, worn with questionable European aesthetic with his American reimagined as color-blocked knits and a The neon tease set up for the finale’s taffeta ball pants. heritage to deliver a strong lineup with nice fringe knit halter dress that looked burst of real color — pink, yellow orange As always, Posen offered structure a casual bon vivant allure. like it was based on a baja look. and white — shown in simple sheer in his signature va-va-voom gowns, but “It’s for the rebellious, sophisticated layers for a long, lean look. For example, the real story here was the romance that guy who likes to travel and cares about 3.1 Phillip Lim: Phillip Lim said he was an orange slipdress was worn over a short told a mostly sweet tale. how he looks, but has a casual sense of feeling “very elemental” for spring. Same yellow tank and two pink skirts, one long, style,” Snyder said. goes for anyone wearing sandals at his one knee-length. The sporty simplicity of Adam Lippes: São Paulo’s low-rider culture That effortless chic attitude was show, where the entire floor was covered the separates and soft blend of colors was conjures up lots of audible images, none apparent in the single-pleat shorts in very elemental white rocks. Ouch! cool and surprisingly cheerful. of which seem to have much to do with a paired with a burgundy suede bomber He wanted to convey a terrestrial Brights weren’t the only new part of designer like Adam Lippes — he of the jacket and printed crewneck T-shirt, sensibility in the collection, an ode to Theyskens’ spring story; the layering quietly chic aesthetic. and a micro-pin-dot suit over a maroon planet Earth via a mineral palette and was also a strong throughline. He built But in his hands, ladies will short-sleeve polo. decorative effects such as jacquards day looks and modern evening options undoubtedly be taking a ride come spring, Snyder’s voyage to Europe created a meant to emulate wood grain and geodes. out of off-beat pairings. A bustier tank none the wiser to the sometimes hard- more enticing look than in past seasons. The latter brought welcome surface came over an oversize T-shirt and core lifestyle that inspired their wares. interest and color to shapes that were double-layered shorts, and a slouchy Lippes presented his collection Yeohlee: “My spring inspiration for this otherwise very spare and structured. short-sleeved top, sequined midi in a small suite atop the Maritime collection was site-specific; I have Boxy jackets had jutting kimono trumpet skirt and floor-length white Hotel, where he talked about oversize held many events here at the Jones sleeves, and vests, shirts and cuffed skirt combined for an unusual elegance. silhouettes, the lines of the cars and, of Wood Garden,” said Yeohlee Teng after pants were cut sharp and wide, making course, the ink. her show. Whatever her reasoning, for solid urban basics. There were cool Zac Posen: Zac Posen continued the romantic A dramatic lion tattoo, for example, it was easily the most peaceful show treatments, such as the murky metallic saga he spun for resort via a collection that was reinterpreted as a print on a silk in New York’s otherwise overheated, finish of a cracked suede vest, and a delivered sophistication with a dash of midi dress that featured a second overhyped blog fest. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 11 WWD.COM

Adam Lippes Todd Y-3 Snyder

Yeohlee Opening Ceremony

Her garden theme was subtle, if polos over extra-long T-shirts over fitted sometimes nonexistent, but Teng is sweatpants. The result was a lineup on- never very literal when it comes to her trend with today’s designer street fashion. references. The first two looks were done in what the designer called a Opening Ceremony: The space Humberto “cellular” print, a motif that appeared Leon and Carol Lim chose for their to be a deconstructed leaf pattern. The runway debut seemed mammoth. Sure, dress version in silk georgette with a there was a crowd of editors, retailers halter and back draping was stunning. and the requisite cool-kid set in the What followed were looks that were house — not to mention Rihanna and sometimes too quiet, but things picked Justin Bieber for good measure. But up again with a creative ikat group. The when the lights went down and the standout here was a coat in an ikat-into- engines of 18 luxury sports cars revved tweed pattern paired with a matching up with the models at their wheels, it skirt and simple white shirt. became clear that it was practicality, not vanity, that dictated the venue. Y-3: After celebrating 10 years of his Well, maybe a little bit of vanity. The Adidas partnership, Yohji Yamamoto collection fused New York streetwear said backstage that this Y-3 collection with riffs on the traditional Korean was a new start, noting, “I want to bring garments of Lim’s youth, and the drag more excitement.” racing subculture Leon revered in his. First on his agenda was collaborating There were cross-front crepe tops in with famed graphic artist Peter Saville, black, red and blue that were paired who made recent news after Kanye with a matching skirt or oversize “baji” West’s “Yeezus” album cover art closely pants (resembling shorts over pants) mimicked Saville’s design for New in contrasting block prints. Other Order’s single, “Crystal.” For Y-3, Saville looks included Neoprene T-shirts and created a rainbow graphic in multiple leathers, whether a slouchy moto jacket colorways that was printed on micro- or a crinkled leather mini, and anoraks mesh T-shirt dresses and the sleeves of that were folded under in front as a nod an elongated blazer. to a ceremonial wedding garment. Elsewhere, there were sporty styles For the men’s, oversize graphic FOR MORE REVIEWS in classic black with the signature Neoprene Ts, sharp leather jackets, AND IMAGES, SEE Adidas triple stripe strategically placed baggy cargo shorts and tech parkas — on the bodice of one look, around enhanced the brand’s downtown cool- WWD.com/ the hem of another, even on some of the kid aesthetic. runway. tailored pieces. This lineup was far more than the Other than the Saville looks, the “basics plus” collection it started with men’s collection took a step back toward 10 years ago, and offered a promising more defined streetwear with updated glimpse at what these two self-described

proportions and layering, i.e., elongated nerds have to offer. RODIN BANICA, GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND SCOTT GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, RUDD PHOTOS BY 12 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 WWD.COM

Patrik Patrik Ervell: Patrik Ervell looked to the sea Edun Holmes Ovadia & Ervell for his solid nautical-inspired collection. & Yang Sons “I am interested in technical clothing that’s built for a natural environment and evolves through the specific needs and conditions of the outdoors,” he said. Sailing coats in performance fabrics, bombers in nylon sailcloth and shirts and shorts in ocean prints drove that message home. Still, Ervell remained true to his heritage with minimalistic, softly constructed suits paired at times with Nineties-style baggy shorts. The athletic references in sweatpants, woven mesh paneled outerwear and zip-up dry suits continued to speak to his youthful street- friendly aesthetic.

Victoria Victoria Beckham: With her secondary line evolving for spring, Victoria Beckham provided ample chic with charming motifs and summery silhouettes — particularly with her plays on volume. “It’s London meets L.A.,” said the designer, who’s now firmly based in the English capital. Many of the shapes came with a lovely sense of laid-back ease, including the SPRING 2014 gorgeous pleated dress that graphically featured 11 different colors, and the NEW YORK sweet, ultravoluminous silk cloque COLLECTIONS number. Beckham was wearing the latter look, which she playfully referred to as “a big cake.” The designer’s leaner pieces, like the trompe l’oeil jacquard dress with different optical patterns to look like a top and skirt, fit in nicely with the overall spirit. Pamella Trina Creatures Edun: In her first season as creative Roland Turk of Comfort director for Edun, Danielle Sherman achieved exactly what she wanted: to develop and elevate the brand. “Collaborating with Camilla Nickerson evolved naturally,” Sherman said backstage. “She’s bold and direct and it feels right.” The collection was modern and cool, with graphic patterns in basic silhouettes. Sherman bonded intricate handwoven leather pieces to Neoprene, thus producing a two-dimensional texture Victoria and giving shape to pieces ranging Victoria from cropped tops to skirts. Bird’s-eye Beckham jacquard trousers, a hand-knit poncho and mercerized jersey baseball-style uniform shirts were all standout pieces. Sherman also used silk-screening techniques on cotton canvas and leather, creating geometric patterns on pants and a high-slit skirt. To keep the collection grounded, Sherman paired all her elevated pieces with side-slit T-shirts.

Holmes & Yang: Now in its fourth year, Katie Holmes and Jeanne Yang’s collection has hit its stride, with luxe materials FOR MORE REVIEWS and astute detailing converging to form a AND IMAGES, SEE modern, wearable wardrobe. “Our customer has a broad life,” WWD.com/ explained Holmes. “She’s busy and she runway. needs a lot of different looks.” To that point, the 14-piece offering ranged from a pretty cotton sundress to an on-trend raffia AND SCOTT MITRA RUDD ROBERT RODIN BANICA, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY short suit that would check the boxes for both day and night. black-and-white plaid and blue — thus who don’t live life on the beach, there There were sweet gathered silk dresses this far-reaching collection proved Ovadia were cool leather vests, a mixed-media in a subtle animal print — a favored & Sons can now wardrobe men 24/7. sweatshirt and a chambray jumpsuit. personal style of Holmes — and several Turk also launched a shoe collection gowns, one with a lightly beaded neckline, Pamella Roland: There were two distinct paths this season, although she only showed two the other with a deep V trimmed in leather, that Pamella Roland walked for spring, from versions in her presentation: an easy flat that would do any red carpet proud. minimal to grandiose. The minimal looks and a mule with a Lucite heel. There will were clearly the most inviting. be 21 styles in all. Ovadia & Sons: Shimon and Ariel Ovadia Two ivory dresses captured nighttime took a step outside their comfort zone elegance with ease — a sheath with a Creatures of Comfort: Jade Lai presented for their first New York Fashion Week blue slip underneath and a crepe number her fresh and relaxed collection at the presentation. with a cutout honeycomb beaded yoke. On nautical-themed Maritime Hotel’s North “Everybody thinks we’re preppy or we the other side of the spectrum, a goddess Cabana, which was decorated with make suits, but we wanted to show everything gown in orange crinkle-silk chiffon may cardboard cutouts in the shape of Capri’s we’re about,” said Shimon Ovadia. have already paid one too many visits to iconic Faraglioni rock formations. That’s just what the twin brothers did, the red carpet. In keeping with the set, the lineup was offering up Neoprene motorcycle jackets strong on chic summery pieces to pack for and hoodies, lightweight reflective Trina Turk: After a scenic road trip up the a seaside Mediterranean vacation. They jackets and an array of indigo pieces Pacific Coast Highway, Trina Turk found included a voluminous sea-blue Japanese including a bleached two-panel sweater inspiration in laid-back costal towns and chambray shirt with a matching miniskirt and a cotton denim suit. Monochrome little surf shops. Working in sun-bleached and a white eyelet knot-shoulder maxidress. statement floral printed shirts, silk colors, Turk played with Mod-inspired A playful pom-pom motif was printed schoolboy suits and paint-splattered Pop Art florals and grid patterns on long on a drop-shoulder blue cotton shirt pants added edge. beachy dresses and sexy swimwear. paired with brown cotton pants, as well The elegant tailored clothing was, of She also worked with fun jacquards — as on a textured see-through button-up course, still there — sharp single- and most noteworthy was a square pattern on shirt over clean ankle-length pants for a double-breasted jackets in sleek black, a boxy cropped top and skirt. For those sophisticated look.

14 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

TEXTILES PV, Texworld Fine-tuning be presenting and production nies’ evolution and the way they By JOELLE DIDERICH and they’ll be planning. work,” he said. “We have to mir- LAURE GUILBAULT Première Vision is aiming for ror as best we can the way com- greater synergies and a more fo- panies are structured in terms PARIS — The outlook for two cused offer with its September of product development, and major textile fairs set to take edition, which will feature a re- consequently, what these play- place next week — Première cord 776 exhibitors. ers — whether they are design- Vision and Texworld — can be Scheduled to take place ers, product managers — are Première Vision expects 4 percent more exhibitors summed up by the Beatles lyric, from Sept. 17 to 19 at the Parc looking for at trade fairs.” this edition compared to September of last year. “I’ve got to admit it’s getting d’Expositions in Paris Nord Première Vision is also seek- better, it’s a little better all the Villepinte, PV will usher in a ing to meet the needs of special- the 745 registered in September specialist Alexanders of Scotland. time…can’t get no worse.” new organization of its fashion ized markets with three targeted 2012. More than 1,900 exhibitors Among the newcomers are several This is particularly true in forums aimed at bringing to- areas. Evening Focus is geared are expected to take part in the South Korean firms specializing Europe, where the prolonged gether textile mills and buyers toward the luxury and cocktail different trade shows under the in technical fabrics for outerwear, debt crisis and economic malaise more efficiently, and fostering markets in emerging economies, Première Vision Pluriel banner — such as Taipyung Textile Co., AB have cut into profits and growth greater synergy between fashion offering solutions for evening Expofil, Première Vision, Indigo, Industries and Ludia Co. Ltd. plans, and forced companies to information and business. An and dressy items with silky, lace, Modamont, Le Cuir à Paris and Beginning this season, access look at exports to the U.S. and updated version of its general embroidery and ribbon prod- Zoom by Fatex. This represents to Modamont, which specializes Asia to balance difficult home forum will bring together fabric ucts. Tech Focus will service a 4.5 percent increase versus the in fashion accessories and com- markets. For example, for the selections and PV’s trend film the sport, outdoor, activewear, same period a year ago. ponents, will no longer be free of first seven months of the year, for fall 2014, to be shown on an swimwear and workwear mar- “We have been seeing a rise charge. Instead, the fair will be the apparel market in France 80-foot screen. kets with knits and technical in exhibitors and visitors for sev- accessible through the Première was down 1.4 percent compared In addition, organizers of wovens. Knitwear Focus, part eral seasons now, despite a very Vision Pluriel badge, which with the same period last year, the show have created two new of the Knitwear Solutions area, depressed economic outlook, in grants entrance to Première according to the French Fashion areas grouped by major prod- will present exclusive novelties Europe at least. Our position- Vision, Expofil and Indigo. Institute, or IFM. uct end-use. The Tops & Shirts in creative flatbed knits. The ing protects us and allows us to Pasquet said organizers will “In June and July, clothing Forum will cater to fabrics Knitwear Solutions section will continue growing,” said Pasquet, mull new directions for its new sales in France were up 2 per- for shirts, blouses, tops, small almost double in size for its third noting the fair is well anchored division of fashion fairs special- cent over June and July 2012, knit or woven items, tunics edition, with 24 new participants. in the luxury segment and has a ized in clothing manufacturing, according to our preliminary and dresses. The Outer & Over A new Style Focus area will portfolio of international events. acquired from Eurovet in July. In results,” said Gildas Minvielle, Forum will be for fabrics for offer suggestions of finished sil- “Fashion companies — unfortu- addition to Zoom by Fatex, posi- head of IFM. “This came after a jackets, suits, trousers, jeans, houettes featuring strong fabric nately not all of them, but most tioned toward the mid- and high- very bad winter and spring. The coats, parkas, blousons and and color choices, while the — have understood that with the range segments, they include improvement is mostly due to in- other tailored pieces. Relax Cotton area will gain a crisis, searching for a solution at Fatex, Made in France by Fatex, store events during the sales sea- Philippe Pasquet, chief execu- new Wash & Dye pod bringing the bottom end is often deadly, Tissu Premier and Collections. son and much better weather.” tive officer of Première Vision SA, denim makers and cotton weav- because then it just turns into a Buyers are slated to convene Organizers and exhibitors at said the changes were designed to ers closer together, in order to battle over price.” Sept. 16 to 19 for the 33rd edition Texworld and PV aim to take better reflect visitors’ needs. service the fast-growing jeans Returning exhibitors include of Texworld in Le Bourget ex- signs of an upswing and ride “We realized we had to adapt and casualwear market. Italian cotton weaver Cerrus hibition center, where organiz- them into increased interest for a certain number of things to Organizers are expecting a 4 Tessile, French lace manufac- ers expect about 14,000 visitors, the fall 2014 collections they’ll remain in sync with compa- percent bump in exhibitors from turer Jabouley Dentelle and wool nearly the same as a year ago. WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 15 WWD.COM

The number of American visitors manufacturing, runs concurrently to the event is expected to increase with Texworld, with a 22 percent Woolmark Creates New Campaign to 550, from 492 in September 2012, increase in exhibitors bringing the with Calvin Klein, Gap and Urban total to around 200. Outfitters confirmed. “The two fairs are comple- By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN “Texworld USA [held in July] is mentary,” Scherpe said. “Many there to serve the American market, Texworld visitors already have THE WOOLMARK CO. is set to unveil a but many buyers use the Paris show production partners, but some washable wool campaign, called “Tested by in September as a follow-up,” said want to change.” Nature, Tested by Us,” meant to freshen up Michael Scherpe, the fair’s president. The show’s three sections have the image of the fabric. Visitors from France, the U.K., been restructured and renamed. The underlying message of the three-year Turkey, Spain and Germany still “Functional Fabrics” will become campaign is that, contrary to some popular represent the lion’s share of attend- “Functional and Sportswear,” due beliefs, wool can be an easy-care material. ees at Texworld, but Scherpe noted to an increased focus on sports- Woolmark said it’s actively engaging with An image from Woolmark’s new ads. an uptick in buyers from Russia, wear, Scherpe noted; “Cotton its brand partners to add washable wool to Bulgaria and Slovenia. Attractive Spirit” evolves into their garment ranges. As customers seek stage, which will run for several years, it is Some 835 exhibitors are con- “Cotton and Blends,” where cot- more wool specified to “machine wash” or about addressing the consumer misconcep- firmed, up 3 percent compared ton and cotton blends for women’s “machine wash and tumble dry” standards, tion that wool is ‘difficult to care for’ by as- with July 2012, with newcomers wear will be grouped together, and so, too, will the amount processors will be suring them that a Woolmark garment label, coming predominantly from South “Cotton Casual View” transforms called upon to supply. and the corresponding cycle on a washing Korea, China, India, Japan, Hong into “Cotton and Blends C.V.,” The three-year campaign will also help machine, means wool is easier to care for Kong and Turkey. Exhibitors in- dedicated to cotton and blends for align consumer perceptions to the modern and more convenient than they think.” clude, for instance, Kaskas, a silk unisex casualwear. wool garments available, and as consumers Langtry said the multimedia campaign will and wool specialist from Lebanon, Among the key seminars are a are educated about wool’s easy-care proper- make extensive use of digital channels, as well and Chinese wool manufacturer flurry of conferences dedicated ties, appeal at point of sale is set to increase. as public relations and event-based activity. Jiangsu Danmao. to sustainability on Sept. 17, in- Woolmark-certified wool labeled as “machine “It uses some traditional advertising, but The Apparel Sourcing show, cluding “The Business Case for wash” or “machine wash and tumble dry” is seeks to bring the imagery to life through video dedicated to finished product Sustainability,” featuring Claudia treated to prevent shrinkage, and has gone played on digital media, our AWI/Woolmark Kersten, marketing director at through rigorous testing to make sure it’s safe Web sites and those of our apparel and apparel Global Organic Textile Standard, to machine wash and won’t felt, stain or fade. care licensees and partners,” he said. kicking off the “Sustainability Day” “This campaign is about stopping con- The Woolmark brand is owned by at 10.30 a.m. It will be followed by sumers associating wool with hand-wash or Australian Wool Innovation, or AWI, a not-for- “Organic Linen and Hemp,” where dry-clean and emphasizes the washability as- profit company owned by more than 25,000 the regional French know-how in pects of wool,” said Cathryn Lee, Woolmark wool growers. AWI works throughout the sup- textiles will be discussed. The pro- category manager for its Apparel Care ply chain to promote wool products. AWI will gram continues with “Is It Really Group. “All products must be tested and com- invest several million dollars directly in the Recycled?” where Charline Ducas, ply with the strict Woolmark Specifications, campaign over the next three years, Langtry textile sustainability specialist which will give customers assurance of qual- noted, with funds supplemented by collabor- at Textile Exchange, will speak ity and peace of mind.” ative activity with apparel, washing machine about a new version of the label Rob Langtry, chief strategy and market- and drier manufacturers, and detergent and for recycled products called Global ing officer at Woolmark, said, “In the initial fabric softener manufacturers. There will Recycled Standard, slated to come trade launch phase, the campaign focuses on be a soft launch to the trade in the last quar- out early 2014, and the launch this building trade awareness of and confidence ter of this year, Langtry added, with discus- month of a new Recycled Claim in washable wool, and encourages them to sions to progress with key partners over a Standard that tracks recycled raw ensure they have products available in this 12-month period before the campaign moves Checking out the fabrics at Texworld. materials through the supply chain. existing technology. In the broader consumer into consumer communication.

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with most under $600 and topping out at $2,200. That will FASHION SCOOPS start to change today when Mr Porter begins selling Bremont watches, with models priced KERING’S INVESTMENT IN Cornelia Guest, Arriana Boardman from $4,250 to $6,395. ALTUZARRA: As New York and Adrienne Arsht, among “We have been looking to Fashion Week continues, much others. — R.F. launch fine watches for some of the buzz was on Kering’s time and were simply waiting investment stake in Joseph IN ANOTHER LIFETIME: The for the right partner with which Altuzarra. WWD has learned that preshow scramble at Carolina to enter into this essential the size of Kering’s stake in Herrera Monday could not and expanding category,” said Altuzarra is about 40 percent, have been more removed from Mr Porter buying director according to financial and Christina Ricci’s upcoming role Toby Bateman. The site will market sources. These be Bremont’s sole online sources also confirmed retailer. — DAVID LIPKE that Altuzarra’s operation Michelle Dockery will remain separate from PINTO KICKS OFF A COMEBACK: Kering, and will not in any Chicago designer Maria Pinto, way be connected to the who gained acclaim dressing companies under Kering’s Michelle Obama on the 2008 umbrella. — VICKI M. YOUNG presidential campaign trail, has raised around $42,000 on TIME TO TALK: Post-Europe, Kickstarter, a platform she the CFDA’s Diane von is using to stage her fashion Furstenberg and Steven comeback. Kolb plan to sit down After enjoying the with Bethann Hardison to national spotlight, Pinto discuss racial diversity fell victim to the recession, on the runways. The shuttering her business in meeting is in response to 2010, and then worked as a letter Hardison’s group, women’s creative director The Diversity Coalition, for Mark Shale, a women’s e-mailed last week charging and men’s retailer that racism on New York closed its last stores in 2012. runways. The governing “When I was curating the bodies of fashion weeks in collections at Mark Shale,

London, Paris and Milan STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY I realized that it was very received ones with similar hard to find pieces that criticism. as Lizzie Borden, who in 1892 were affordable but still had Kolb spoke with Hardison was acquitted of axing her a high level of design, quality, Sunday night about the father and stepmother to death. and versatility,” Pinto said, prospect. “I always intended to It’s not the folk rhyme “Lizzie- noting that her new collection and I will,” she said. Borden took an axe, gave her is priced $75 to $250. Hardison also plans to mother 40 whacks, when she’d Looking to raise $250,000 in connect with the British seen what she had done, she 45 days on the crowd-funding Fashion Council “to see how gave her father 41” or the Web site, Pinto is 10 days in and we can continue the discussion corseted costumes that stayed 17 percent toward her goal. The as they requested,” she said. with Ricci, but the back story. BFC spokeswoman Gemma Ebelis Before shooting the Lifetime e-mailed The Coalition within movie, the actress researched hours of receiving the latter’s the native of Fall River, Mass., e-mail on Thursday. who was the first American — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG woman ever to have been accused of such an heinous act. BEHIND THE SCENES: Tor y “There are so many theories Burch is taking the concept about her, music, [an Agnes of fashion insider to a whole de Mille] ballet. I studied and new level. Today at 9 a.m., studied, and read as much as I the designer will launch a could about her psychological microsite, runway.toryburch. profile, detective reports and com, offering fans and the everything else,” she said. “I fashion-obsessed alike the think it was [triggered by] incest chance to go inside the spring and the rage turned to violence. The logo for Maria Pinto’s new line. NEW FOR FALL/WINTER 2014/15 experience. “The idea was to “It was very tough to get bring the show to life,” said into the mind of this person, new line, called M2057 by Maria Burch. “It’s one destination who I think knew she was Pinto — which includes seven CRYSTAL LILAC for everything from our deceiving people and at the dresses, two jackets, a shrug, a live-stream to images of our same time she was acting wrap and two scarf styles — will inspiration, behind the scenes, innocent.” Even though move forward with or without SHADOW runway coverage and more.” Borden walked and the crime the Kickstarter funding, Pinto The experience is being remains unsolved, Ricci said, said, adding that she plans to posted in real time before, “Definitely guilty — gotta say.” launch her own e-commerce during and after the show, Along with Ricci, Uma site in October. — BETH WILSON and will allow viewers to sort Thurman, Coca Rocha and Dita Think mystery and passion, opulence and royalty. the collection by piece and Von Teese, Michelle Dockery of OPERATIC AIRS: Christian Lacroix Violets stand for romance, gold for splendor—the trend, share via “Downton Abbey” and the Paris Opera are social media and was another front- collaborating with Petit Bateau new Crystal Lilac Shadow effect, exclusively from FOR MORE even preorder two SCOOPS, SEE rower. The actress on a capsule collection for Swarovski, signals both. Its subtle golden coating accessory pieces perked up when women and children, WWD from the runway. Graydon Carter paid a has learned. The collection, and deep rich shade give a sensual elegance to WWD.com The site will be call on his way out of consisting of four references your look. Choose from a wide array of crystals to updated ongoing the show. But when for women and two for accent your design. with news pertaining to the it came to postshow small children, is scheduled to go on season and was created with talk, Dockery was, well, oh-so- sale in Petit Bateau stores and the New York-based digital firm very Lady Marylike. “I loved at the Opéra Garnier boutique Call now for details +1.800.463.0849 Firstborn. — KIM FRIDAY it — so elegant, beautiful,” she in Paris on Dec. 6. or email [email protected] said of Carolina Herrera’s Kinetic Lacroix has pursued a BADGLEY TAKES TWO: Badgley Art-inspired collection. As for thriving career designing WWW.SWAROVSKI.COM/PROFESSIONAL Mischka has a doubleheader whether it is difficult to live her exhibitions, hotels and stage celebration planned for its own life when so many people costumes, including for the 25th anniversary today. John are always asking about her Paris Opera, since the couture Legend and his fiancée Chrissy Lady Mary character, she said, house that bears his name was Teigen, as well as actresses “I’m not taking any questions or shuttered and reduced to a Taryn Manning and Katie Cassidy, doing any interviews.” — R.F. licensing operation in 2009. are expected at Mark Badgley He’s currently at work on and James Mischka’s runway QUALITY TIME: Men’s e-tailer Balanchine’s “Le Palais de show this morning. By Mr Porter offers a myriad Cristal,” with music by Georges nightfall, the designers will assortment of top luxury labels Bizet, premiering next May at welcome Kate Mara of “House — but its watch offerings have the Opéra Bastille. of Cards,” as well as Julia Koch, so far come from the lower end — MILES SOCHA Sutton Stracke, Caryn Zucker, of the category’s price scale, AND JOELLE DIDERICH WWD STYLE

show to evoke the SoCal car culture of their Nineties youth, and borrowed the props from the members of a New Jersey car club. The sight of Bieber, who earlier this year was chastised by his less famous neighbors for allegedly whipping his Ferrari around their Calabasas, Calif., enclave with great abandon, made for one final, exquisite bit of stage dressing. The pop star posted up in the makeshift parking lot’s front row in tight leather pants and a drapy T-shirt accessorized with a Starter snapback, gold chains, indoor sunglasses and what appeared to be the beginnings of a bad teenage mustache. He topped the ensemble with a clutch of beefy, flashlight-wielding security guards and was off the premises shortly Rihanna after the show’s finale. Fellow front-row attendee Rihanna proved more accessible, if only slightly more trenchant amid the after-show crush, as the crowd trickled into an on- site party that took over the rave-ready Justin Bieber space and adjoining pop-up market.

PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY “I loved it,” she said. “I thought it was so much fun. I thought it was super creative the way they brought out the cars and the order they came The Vroom Vroom Room out in…the models. It was sick. I loved it. And I loved the clothes. The jackets FEW TOPICS capture the typical Porsches, Beemers, Bentleys and were really insane, but then there’s 19-year-old North American male mind the like rolling into the cavernous this one, it’s like a long-sleeve black- more than cars and models. It made environs as if preparing for an and-white…” sense, then, that Justin Bieber, currently underground street race. Ultimately, She was interrupted by a mom-type playing bratty teenage cousin to the the cars’ drivers delivered no more wielding an iPhone and an accent that whole of Western culture, was front than a master class in precision seemed to have traveled east across the and center at Opening Ceremony’s parking, and one-by-one, the models in Hudson with the cars. debut runway show on Sunday night at back popped out and began their long “Can I just get one pic-chaw so fast?” Pier 57. After the 1,000-plus attendees march around the room. she asked. “I’m so sorry.” Jason packed into the space, the show OC masterminds Carol Lim and “OK,” Rihanna assented. Schwartzman began with a parade of Lamborghinis, Humberto Leon said they wanted the — MATTHEW LYNCH

“I’m grateful, but I don’t hear it. For Diane von Furstenberg me, I still have to show the clothes and and Naomi Campbell show my dress,” she said of the ovation. “Well,” von Furstenberg shrugged, “she’s used to it!” Earlier in the evening, the designer had admitted to some exhaustion: “I didn’t sleep at all last night....I couldn’t sleep, so I read Putin’s biography, which made me sleep less.” Sleepy may be the pervading sentiment shared among fashion folk at this point in the grind, but DVF devotees rallied on, descending upon the breezy veranda off FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE the elevated park. “Wasn’t it great?” Jessica Alba WWD.com/eye. gushed, in a diaphanous cobalt number from von Furstenberg’s fall collection. “I loved that cork print and the snakeskin print, and the long, Jessica Alba flowing dresses. I want it all.” The The leafy terrace, supplemented with flushes of blood red dahlias, pink asters and fuchsia hydrangeas, brimmed with other bold-faced names — Andy High Life Cohen, Lily Donaldson, Chelsea Leyland and Dree Hemingway and Phil Winser among

PHOTOS BY EVAN FALK EVAN PHOTOS BY them — most concentrated around von Furstenberg’s enclave. JUST AS Diane von Furstenberg’s after party of the first women I met in New York,” Across the room, revelers picked began winding down on Sunday night Campbell said after hunkering down. “I from a spread of seared sea scallops, at the High Line Headquarters, was very happy when she asked me rack of lamb, charred baby carrots and Naomi Campbell slithered in through to walk for her and close her show.” grilled radicchio. Janice Alida polished the crowd nearly undetected. The “It came with love,” von off her plate. “The blisters are the supermodel, who put in a surprise eye Furstenberg chimed in. “We love worst,” the dainty model said when runway appearance to close the each other.” asked about the most taxing part of designer’s show earlier in the Campbell must have felt the fashion week. “I never wear heels in my day, was quickly ushered to von love at the show, as the room had real life, so during this, my feet are like, Phil Winser and Furstenberg’s table. erupted in cheers and applause when ‘What are you doing to me?’” Dree Hemingway “I’ve known Diane forever. She’s one she emerged on the runway. — TAYLOR HARRIS 18 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 De la Renta Expands on Madison

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Inside Oscar de la Renta’s Madison NEW YORK — Along with his Avenue store. spring collection, Oscar de la Renta has been busy putting the finishing touches on his newly ex- panded Upper East Side store. Now open with nearly 3,700 square feet, the boutique at 772 Madison Avenue is double the size of its predecessor. Having taken over and remodeled the Paul & Shark store that used to be next door, the new space has specific areas to showcase the designer’s shoe, handbag, jewelry, beauty, home and children’s wear collec- tions. The designer’s ready-to- Homeware wear remains the primary focus, on display. however. Window shoppers will also have more to consider since the shop now has four Madison store, Harlow, The Dutch and other Avenue windows compared to one restaurants and New York’s Nolitan A view in the past. and Paramount hotels. of the Chief executive officer Alex Aware of how shoppers are exterior. Bolen said the new set-up allows drawn to the ease of online shop- for a greater variety of offerings in ping, de la Renta plans to create specific categories, which lends it- more links between its Web site self to more spontaneous purchas- and the Madison Avenue store. A es. “While we’re still in the early prominent jewelry display in the days, the store has had very good store might feature pieces that are results. People have been more in- spotlighted on the site’s homepage, clined to add on home pieces and for example. accessories,” said Bolen. Noting that the designer’s bou- Designed by Meyer Davis tiques in Los Angeles and Athens Studio, the boutique’s interior are doing particularly well, Bolen features Dominican coral stone, said the retail focus in coming anigré wood, oil-rubbed bronze months will be on the Madison and suede. There are tucked-away Avenue and London stores. While VIP dressing areas for private ap- Bolen is always on the lookout for pointments and fittings. The New new locations, no openings are im-

York-based Meyer Davis Studio’s minent at the moment. The compa- portfolio includes a John Varvatos ny has 13 stores globally.

Italy’s Chamber Predicts Growth Bryant on Political Women half of 2014. After consistent decreases over the past WASHINGTON — Award- influential on style in the By LUISA ZARGANI six quarters, the yarn and textile industry showed winning costume designer 1980s. Women were clamor- signs of improvement in the second quarter of 2013, Janie Bryant, who rolled ing for their perfect Chanel MILAN — Signs of a recovery of the Italian fashion which “always bodes·· well for the apparel industry, as into town Monday to talk suit. No one has had that industry are coming into view, but not before 2014. it anticipates trends,” said Boselli. “Man Men Style,” has big an influence since. The Italian Chamber of Fashion presented its In the first five months of 2013, consumer spend- some pointers for politi- “Of course, it’s a differ- Fashion Economic Trends research on Monday at a ing remained weak in the euro zone, but gained in cal celebs hemmed in by ent time. People don’t dress press conference at Milan’s city hall, ahead of fash- the U.S. (up 7 percent); the U.K. (up 6.4 percent), and the capital’s reputation for up as much,” said Bryant, ion week starting on Sept. 18 and in the presence of Japan (up 10.5 percent). China continues to grow at studied frumpiness. who remembers when Milan’s mayor, Giuliano Pisapia, and the councillor to a double-digit pace. The study described the 2013 The Emmy-winning Michelle Obama first came fashion, Cristina Tajani. slowdown in the pace of growth in Brazil, Russia, designer, who began to town. “One of my favorite Mirroring the chamber’s upbeat mood, with re- India and China as a “physiological phenomenon” work for AMC’s hit se- outfits was her inaugural newed efforts to reinvigorate Milan Fashion Week, and necessary for “an orderly development of these ries “Mad Men” just green coat with the match- the study forecasts a 3.5 percent increase in reve- economies,” in order to avoid “explosive tensions” seven months after then- ing green gloves. Michelle nues for the Italian fashion industry, including tex- stemming from the growth rate seen over the past Sen. Hillary Rodham Obama is not afraid to be tile, clothing, leather goods and shoes, in the first Clinton announced her herself. On an everyday half of 2014. first presidential bid, basis, she is not so con- Continued growth in exports will be offset by has plenty of advice for cerned with fashion.” Italy’s weak economy, which impacts expectations We must note, however, the current Democratic Washington women had for 2013. This year, revenues are forecast to drop 2.5 presidential frontrunner. plenty of time for rebut- percent to 58.85 billion euros or $77.55 billion at cur- that the positive notes “Hillary Clinton could tal. After delivering her rent exchange. have an amazing fash- “Evening Seminar” from Exports in 2013 are seen reaching 45.1 billion ion update,” said Bryant, 7 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. in the euros, or $59.43 billion, up 4 percent compared come exclusively from whose D.C. appearance is Baird Auditorium at the with 2012, and growing 7 percent in the first half hosted by the Smithsonian Smithsonian’s National of 2014. While imports are expected to edge down foreign markets, while Italy Associates program. Museum of Natural History, 1 percent in 2013 to 26.09 billion euros, or $34.38 Candidate Clinton, she Bryant joined the crowd billion, they are forecast to grow 4.5 percent in the continues to show decreases. said, “could look totally dy- of more than 200 for a spe- first half of 2014. namic, professional and se- cial viewing of a selection “The difficulties in the first and second quarter — FASHION ECONOMIC TRENDS REPORT rious all at the same time of her original sketches of 2013 were acute,” said the study, thus affecting with beautiful blouses and served with “Mad Men- the fashion industry, as much as other industries. skirts as opposed to the style cocktails” provided by Although signs of improvement were visible mid- few years. The BRIC area, together with Indonesia, safe-pantsuit look.” Jack Rose Dining Saloon, year, it is too early to speak of a recovery, said the Mexico and Turkey, accounted for 11.2 percent of ex- Hard at work on her own Ledroit Brands LLC and study. The silver lining is that the figures have im- ports in the first half. Hollywood-based fashion Haus Alpenz importers. proved compared with the previous quarters. Asked how he felt about the LVMH Moët Hennessy reality TV show, Bryant “No question, it’s very “We must note, however, that the positive notes Louis Vuitton acquisition of Loro Piana this sum- said, “Women in politics important that women be come exclusively from foreign markets, while Italy mer, Boselli said he regretted that such companies play it very safe. As a de- taken seriously in poli- continues to show decreases. We will not be able to are no longer Italian, but “we must look at the buy- signer, I feel they could still tics,” said Bryant. “But you talk about a light at the end of the tunnel until there ers. Groups such as Kering and LVMH·· show a history be taken seriously without can still wear an amazing is a recovery in national consumer spending,” the of consistency and success.” He praised the groups being so conservative.” power pencil skirt and a study added. for “maintaining the Made in Italy production in Bryant, who last visited tailored, fitted jacked and Mario Boselli, head of the chamber, said that “a the most rigorous way, fully respecting this value — D.C. as a student just after heels, and look fabulous slight improvement in Italy” is expected by the end of something that not all Italian designers have always the Reagans left town, said, and powerful, too.” the year, and that the country will pick up in the first taken into consideration.” “Nancy Reagan was totally — SUSAN WATTERS

WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 19 WWD.COM Coach Leads Pack in Online Chat·· Service com and victoriassecret.com. 30 to 45 seconds, with apparel re- tify their preferred means of lent,” just below the “elite” By ARNOLD J. KARR The top 10 for issue resolu- tailers closer to the lower figure, contact with an online retailer. designation reserved for the tion had a mean score of 94.6 said Kevon Hills, StellaServce’s Phone communication was fa- top vote-getters. While figures THE COACH INC. e-commerce percent, about 10 points higher director of research. vored by 46 percent of Stella’s for August are still being tabu- site’s capacity for online chat goes than the average for the overall Overstock.com was followed respondents as their preferred lated, it failed to qualify for a beyond the usual idle chatter. retail sample. by Ideeli.com, Modcloth.com, means of contacting an online top five position in the apparel The company’s e-commerce In the “total time to live Kingsizedirect.com and sier- retailer, with e-mail just two and accessories category dur- site, coach.com, was the only agent” portion of the online ratradingpost.com, with the notches back at 44 percent. ing July but topped the phone one of more than 100 U.S.- chat study, Overstock.com led remaining spots taken by ca- Online chat garnered 6 percent category in June, was second to based e-commerce retailers the pack with an average of belas.com, coach.com, bestbuy. to score in the top 10 in both seven seconds from placement com, advanceautoparts.com categories — “total time to live and forever21.com. agent” and “issue resolution” Hills acknowledged that, for [Live chat] is live contact, just like the — in a study covering online a variety of reasons, live chat chat functions conducted by is still a developing portion of phone, and gives you an emotional StellaService, the monitor of online consumer interaction for online service satisfaction. many e-tailers, especially those connection in that way. Coach.com finished second 62% in the soft goods area, where the in the top 10 for issue resolu- RESPONDERS WHO WOULD SHOP need for technical assistance is — KEVON HILLS, STELLASERVCE tion and seventh among the ELSEWHERE IF AN ONLINE RETAILER lower than in electronics. top 10 for the total time it took “It’s almost a combination FAILED TO RESOLVE THEIR for someone online to reach of phone and e-mail,” he said. of the response, with Facebook ralphlauren.com for phone in- a live agent. Wayfair.com, a PROBLEM UPON FIRST CONTACT. “It’s live contact, just like the preferred by 4 percent and teraction in May and finished home furnishings site, finished phone, and gives you an emo- Twitter by 1 percent. fifth for shipping satisfaction first in the issue resolution tional connection in that way. Nearly two in three respon- in April. category, followed by coach. of an online chat request to in- But because you can do things dents — 62 percent — said they StellaService conducted its com, rei.com, llbean.com and teraction with a live agent, with like sharing links during an on- would shop elsewhere if an on- research about online chat dur- potterybarn.com. Rounding the average time for the top 10 a line chat, it shares that advan- line retailer failed to resolve ing a three-month period that out the top 10 were shop.lu- brisk 10.3 seconds. tage with e-mails.” their problem upon first contact. ended Aug. 15. Its findings come lulemon.com, katespade.com, Typically, the average time for Yet it ranks a distant third Coach’s overall rating as from a staff of about 60 online landsend.com, crateandbarrel. the start of a live chat session is among consumers asked to iden- an online retailer is “excel- mystery shoppers.·· Haberdash Opening Chicago Flagship

By JEAN E. PALMIERI

JERRY KAMHI con- tinues to expand in his home town of Chicago. The retail veteran and chief executive of- ficer of Haberdash will open a third unit in that city later this month — a 4,000-square-foot flagship in the South Loop at the Roosevelt Collection, a new de- velopment of retail and SMALL SPACE residences in an up-and- Signage and renderings of the new store. coming part of the city. Haberdash currently State Street and were trying to operates two smaller lo- get a blend of national and local cations: a 1,100-square- retailers” for the project. “We foot shop at 607 North looked at it as a fabulous opportu- State Street under the nity to capture a much larger au- Haberdash Bespoke dience.” Kamhi said that although name that focuses on the State Street stores do $1,300 to soft tailored cloth- $1,400 a square foot in sales, most ing, luxury sportswear of the customers are tourists. and dressy footwear, “The men in Chicago don’t want and Haberdash EDC, a to pay $30 to park so they can go 1,900-square-foot bou- shopping,” he said. In addition, tique at 611 North State Street that most of downtown has been taken over sells casual sportswear, accessories and by large national retailers, with local BIG apothecary items. stores unable to survive. Kamhi, whose retail background in- “So when we were offered the op- cludes Bigsby & Kruthers, Ringolevio, portunity to open a store, we thought Urban American Club and Knot Shop, it would be a good way to showcase said the new store will strive to offer what we do and build the Haberdash “the ultimate haberdashery men’s wear brand,” he said. “This is the first time experience in the South Loop.” we’re going to be able to put everything The store will offer tailored cloth- under one roof.” Kamhi also expects BUSINESS ing from L.B.M. 1911 and Southwick that the free parking will appeal to Clothing, and sportswear from Gitman local shoppers. Vintage, Filson, New England Shirt The store is slated for a soft open- Company, Reigning Champ, Hertling ing on Sept. 19, and a grand-opening Trousers, Baldwin Denim, and Wolverine celebration is set for Oct. 10. The store 1000 Mile. Furnishings, accessories and is partnering with the Chicago History WWD Marketplace is the premier destination an assortment of apothecary items from Museum to create a video celebrating Aesop, Malin + Goetz and Baxter of the heritage of Chicago’s South Side. for the industry’s classified and career listings. California will also be sold. “We’re excited to associate ourselves The store will also feature a La with the city, since our style sense was Colombe café for customers to sip cap- born here,” he said. puccinos in the store’s “H Lounge.” A Also in October, the store will in- barber shop will also be located on troduce a new private-label collection 800.423.3314 the premises. of suit separates called Haberdash Kamhi said McCaffery Interests Bespoke No. 607 that will retail for $398 Inc., the real estate company for the to $498 for jackets, $198 for bottoms and Roosevelt Collection, approached $178 for vests. There will also be a made- WWD.COM/MARKETPLACE Haberdash around 18 months ago as it to-measure component that will be pro- was looking for tenants for the devel- duced in Montreal and delivered within opment. “They liked our two stores on three weeks.

dieselblackgold.com WWDMILESTONES SECTION II HOTO ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION ASSISTANT: CATHERINE BROADBENT; STYLED BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE STYLED BY BROADBENT; CATHERINE ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION HOTO ASSISTANT:

REFLECTIONS Tahari FROM ELIE TAHARI BUILDING THE At 40 BUSINESS A journey to America leads to four decades on Seventh MEN’S WEAR, Avenue and a $500 million DIGITAL, sportswear powerhouse. LICENSING AND MORE MODEL PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; An Elie Tahari look for spring. PORTRAIT BY THOMAS IANNACCONE MODEL: DARIA P/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX BEAUTY; MAKEUP BY DAVID STELLA FOR ELLIS FAAS COSMETICS; P STELLA DAVID FOR ELLIS FAAS MAKEUP BY BEAUTY; JEANIE SYFUMODEL: DARIA P/WILHELMINA; USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX HAIR BY 2 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDMILESTONES Tahari’s Travels Key moments over four decades of building a sportswear giant.

1971 Q Women’s outerwear in partnership with S. Q Handbags launch at Bergdorf Goodman. Elie Tahari moves from Israel to the U.S. and 510 Fifth Avenue Rothschild and the T Tahari line launch. Q A men’s suit collection is introduced in eventually gets work in New York’s Garment QRory Tahari, creative director, is named partnership with Peerless Clothing. Center as an electrician’s assistant. vice chairman. Q Kobi Halperin is named executive creative director, succeeding Rory Tahari, who leaves 1973 2008 the company. Tahari popularizes the tube top. Terry Richardson photographs the spring 2008 ad campaign with model 1974 Erin Wasson. Begins designing namesake label Tahari. Q Tahari holds its spring 2009 runway show at The Four Seasons Restaurant. Q A freestanding boutique opens in Boca Raton, Fla., and in-store shops bow in London and Russia. W Tahari offers a limited-edition swimwear and caftan collection in collaboration with artist Kenny Scharf.

2002 Fabien Baron redesigns the logo as the The Dallas boutique. company name changes to Elie Tahari.

2003 V The designer opens Tahari sells his stake in 2011 his first boutique on Theory to Link International Q Freestanding boutiques open in Madison Avenue. and Fast Retailing; Andrew Washington and Dallas, and expanded in- Rosen retains his stake. store shops open with Neiman Marcus in 1977 Dallas, and Bloomingdale’s in New York. First fashion show 2004 Q E-commerce begins at elietahari.com at Studio 54. The company opens its Q T Tahari jewelry launches. first freestanding boutiques Q Tahari collaborates with actress Emmy 1989 in New York’s SoHo Rossum to create the Emmy Bag to benefit Tahari is named neighborhood and Las Vegas. Safe Horizon, and the designer partners one of Crain’s with Jennifer Hudson and Saks Fifth most successful 2005 Avenue for Key to the Cure benefiting 40 under 40. A freestanding store bows in Women’s Cancer Research Fund. Atlanta, followed by Boston a Q Tahari takes a stake in Catherine 1990 year later. Malandrino to expand the brand with a First WWD front page. diffusion line, new product categories and 2006 in international markets. 1992 The launch of the Alan Grosman is men’s wear collection 2012 named president 1984 and women’s accessories Q Tahari is a guest judge on of Tahari. with shoes and belts. “Project Runway All Stars” Season 2. Q Tahari sues his former Q The designer is honored by 1994 business partner Rosen Worldwide Orphans. Tom Murry succeeds Alan Grosman and 10 other defendants in New York State Q Freestanding boutique opens in Qatar. as president. Supreme Court in a dispute over the sale Q Tahari is admitted to the Council of of Theory. Ultimately, the case was settled 2013 Fashion Designers of America. out of court. An eyewear collection and men’s furnishings Q The designer goes to the White House are introduced. and meets with the Clintons. 2007 Q The company sells a majority stake in The company opens its European Catherine Malandrino to Bluestar Alliance. 1996 headquarters in Milan, and a store in W Sept. 4 is designated Elie Tahari Day Tahari moves into new digs in the East Hampton, N.Y. In-store shops open by the City of New York, in recognition Grace Building on West 42nd Street and at Saks Fifth Avenue in Beverly Hills and of the company’s 40th anniversary. initiates a major expansion campaign, Bloomingdale’s in San Francisco. including licensing, international sales and a fragrance. With Joan Rivers on Elie Tahari Day. 1997 Tahari teams with Andrew Rosen to launch Theory, a line of stretch sportswear that hits 2009 stores in February. V Tahari designs a limited-edition bicycle with proceeds going to Matthew Modine’s 1998 charity Bicycle for a Day. Mark Mendelson joins Tahari Ltd. QThe company opens in-store shops in as president of sales and marketing. Korea and Paris. QThe company signs a deal for leather Q Men’s dress shirts and ties are introduced and active outerwear with Synergy Sport in partnership with Phillips-Van Heusen. International of Hong Kong, and for a line Q Tahari’s iPhone application for the fall of hats with Forget-Me-Not Hats. collections makes its debut.

2001 2010 Tahari purchases 510 Fifth Avenue, which The designer holds a fall runway show becomes the brand’s design center. for the first time at Bryant Park as part of Q Arthur S. Levine partners with the designer Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. to form Tahari ASL, which includes the Q In-store shops open in Dubai and Mexico, Tahari Arthur S. Levine brand of suits and and freestanding boutiques open in Istanbul dresses, as well as a private-label division. East Hampton, N.Y. and Newport Beach, Calif. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Congratulations to

on 40 years 40of success 4 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 SECTION II

WWDMILESTONES A Well-Suited Life Elie Tahari reflects on his evolution, career and current philosophy. By Marc Karimzadeh

THE NOTES TO Elie Tahari’s first fashion show — for the Tahari label on Resort 2000 April 24, 1978 — promised a “Fashion Spring 2012 Spectacular.” Held at Studio 54, which had opened just a few weeks prior, the designer had assembled the right models and the right music of the moment (the runway soundtrack included hits of the time, like “More Than a Woman,” “Sophisticated Lady,” “Gigolo” and “Walk in Love”). It was a major moment for Tahari, who, in just a few years, had become a hot fashion commodity with his Morning Lady dresses, Midnight Lady tops and the Danièle O collection. But it was the day after the show that had the real impact, for reasons that were much less spectacular. “The next night, I felt like s--t,” the designer recalled, chuckling. “[Studio 54 co-owner] Ian Schrager told me after my show, ‘Come tomorrow, and we’ll figure out how much you owe me, so you can write me the check.’ I arrive at Studio 54 in an old Rolls-Royce, and Mark [Benecke] at the door sees me and says, ‘Tahari, your party was last night. You’re confused, it’s not tonight.’ I say to him — and I was wearing this beige John Travolta suit — ‘Ian is waiting for me in the office.’ ‘Well, he can wait,’ he says. ‘You’re not on the

Spring 1985 PHOTOS BY ROBERT KIRK AND GEORGE CHINSEE ROBERT PHOTOS BY

list. You can wait all night.’” iting a friend he had met at the kibbutz, America was everything he’d envisioned Talk about a reality check. and ultimately to New York, where, from watching Hollywood movies as “I got so insulted, and I realized at more than four decades later, he now a kid, and then some. New York, a city that moment — and this was the biggest heads a $500 million fashion enterprise. with a vibrant and visible Jewish com- thing in my life — that I am not the hot “When I was growing up, I did not munity and many Israeli expats, provid- s--t I thought I am. That’s what started know that I was in pain,” said Tahari, ed a sense of belonging and home that breaking down my ego, because I had a reflecting with candor on his early had previously eluded him. strong ego then.” years. His parents had left their native “I was no longer different — sud- It should still be noted that it took Iran for Israel, and Tahari spent part of denly I was treated according to my Schrager six months and daily phone his life at an orphanage. “Life was filled character and the way I treat others,” calls to Tahari to finally get his money. with steady crisis. I had seen a lot at a he said. “If I treat others nice, they treat “He made it happen, because I would young age. I grew up in Israel, I came to you nice here. New York is the least have never paid him,” Tahari said. America in 1971. I was completely con- judgmental and most accepting city on Sitting in his light-filled office on fused. Everything about America was a planet Earth.” West 42nd Street that is decorated with dream. Coming here, it was daily growth Like so many New York rags-to- a tasteful mix of contemporary art and and inspiration. riches stories, though, not all was roses furniture, some 35 years later, Tahari “I wasn’t that eloquent or knowledge- at first, and eventually, the young, penni- is full of such colorful anecdotes, each able about America,” he added. “My less Tahari found himself on the streets replete with a life lesson of sorts while education was through movies. So for of Gotham. also demonstrating the designer’s me, to escape to a different planet was “I slept everywhere,” he said, but charm and passion. At age 61, Tahari to sneak into movie houses and see a stressed that in a city like New York, he is still as willing to take risks as he was different world. When I got to America, never felt like he was homeless. “I was at when he came to America from his na- that energy and culture that I saw in the a picnic. New York was alive 24 hours. A tive Israel when he was just 19 with less movies suddenly became a reality.” kind man found me an emergency shel- than $100 in his pocket. He recalled how, arriving in New ter. It was sponsored by the St. Marks The Tahari story is the classic York in 1971, he made his way from Church on 69 St. Marks Place. It was for American dream: a mix of hard work, John F. Kennedy International Airport boys who had run away from home with keen instinct and fashion savvy that led to the YMCA on the Upper West Side nowhere to go, and they found jobs [for from an Israeli kibbutz to a short stint in (which is, incidentally, right by his them]. I was under 22, so I could stay.” Manchester, England, where he was vis- current home on Central Park West). {Continued on page 6} WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Elie Tahari in his studio last month. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 6 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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{Continued from page 4} workplace,” Tahari said. “I wanted to manager,” Tahari reflected. “I went to a lot since those early days. He now Not that Tahari needed much help. create clothes that made them feel pow- lunch and there were 12 people there. designs women’s and men’s apparel as Demonstrating his can-do attitude and erful, clothes that they could wear into I didn’t know how to handle myself. well as accessories, including hand- survival instinct, he was at a diner on the boardroom and feel confident in. He gave me a sip of wine, and I never bags and eyewear, and footwear. He First Avenue and struck up a conversa- The power suit and work pants became drank without food. I hadn’t even had also has a retail network that, domes- tion that eventually landed him a job my most popular designs. The pants breakfast. They wanted to give me a tically, includes boutiques in prime as a helper for two electrical compa- had a flat front and were made from spot in the most central location where locations, such as on Fifth Avenue and nies in the Garment Center, putting to soft fabric. Women were spending long they do the most business. Marvin said in SoHo in Manhattan, as well as East use electrician skills he had learned hours at the office, and it was important to me, ‘Elie, I know what’s good for Hampton, N.Y., Dallas, Las Vegas and while studying electrical engineering for me to create something comfortable you. That’s the best location because it Atlanta. Globally, there are freestand- in the Israeli Air Force. yet stylish for them to wear. has the most traffic.’ I said, ‘I don’t like ing stores in Istanbul, Warsaw and His fashion trajectory really kicked “Ladies loved the power suit — it the [resources] I am around. I want to Doha in Qatar. Major stores like Saks into high gear with his other job, work- gave them the ability to wear some- be next to designers.’” and Bloomingdale’s devote significant ing the evening shift at the Fig Leaf thing other than a dress or skirt to A heated back-and-forth resulted in real estate to the designer. clothing boutique in Greenwich Village. The job revolved around two major tasks — “to sell, Elie Tahari at work in 1998. and to meet women,” he laughed. “I worked with three other Persians. We’re still friends today — three handsome guys and all the girls were coming to the store. I was a nightbird. I would go out at night. That’s how I learned about fashion.” He learned enough about fashion and retail to inspire him to open his own store, Elie’s Boutique, on East 53rd Street between Second and Third Avenues, on the same street as Betsy Bunky Nini, and, as he pointed out, on “the cor- ner where the gay prosti- tutes stood.” “A week after I opened, somebody broke in the front door and took everything inside,” he said. “I had no insur- ance, no credit, nothing.” Not one to give up on his store, he took the challenge as a blessing and turned it into an opportunity. “They were build- ing the Citicorp tower and knocking the block down, so I went and took a gate from a building about to be torn down. We installed it. Then I went to Broadway to the fabric stores, bought fab- rics for 50 cents a yard and decorated the store with them.” Observing real women on the street, he became acutely aware of their fashion preferences, and in 1973, one of his first hits became the tube top, inspired by the Seventies’ club culture and the pro- PHOTO © PHILIP GREENBERG clivity for many young women of that era to go braless. He found bandeaulike, printed work, and they felt empowered. To this Tahari throwing down his napkin, getting Going through such significant Indian gauze fabric tubes — a manu- day, women still come up to me and up midway through the meal and leaving. growth, there were many high points facturing error — in a New York store say, ‘I wore a Tahari suit on my first day “I walked out and said, ‘That’s the and low moments, plenty of success- owned by Murray Kleid, bought up the of work,’ or ‘I wore Tahari on my first end.’ Then Barbara Bass came here with es (including the founding of Theory stock and had elastic sewn into the interview and got the job.’” a bag of candy and said, ‘Marvin doesn’t in 1997 and several wise retail in- pieces. In his hands, the look became a He pioneered the bridge movement want to have lunch with you anymore. vestments) and some that were less disco-ready hit. and became one of the top names in This time he wants to have breakfast.’” so (i.e., his failed 2004 attempt to buy “I knew that these bandeaus would modern sportswear, which was driven It was an astute gesture, and an Barneys New York). Asked to recount be a hit,” he recalled. “It was complete by items rather than ensembles. even better idea, as talks resulted in some of the highlights and challeng- fate. I started the tube-top craze and It didn’t take long for Tahari getting his own prime spot in es, Tahari, who has been studying began my career off of a pure accident.” Bloomingdale’s to notice, as did the store. A Bloomingdale’s ad in the the Kabbalah in the past couple of He also made a splash in the late Charivari, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf New York Times in March 1983 pro- years, deflected. Seventies with disco dresses, includ- Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and claimed the Tahari boutique “a plea- “The low is where you correct your ing the tube dress and the handker- Barneys New York. His first encounter sure palace, a hexagon complex with direction,” he said. “So the lows, the chief dress. Before long, Tahari moved with Bloomingdale’s then-president two pavilions in a luxurious Chinese challenges, are where the blessing is. on from nightclubs to boardrooms, de- Marvin Traub spoke volumes about motif,” adding that the Tahari name It’s all Kabbalah. I have always been signing suits that captured the essence Tahari’s confidence and conviction. “may be new to you but remember it in thirst of spirituality and looking for of the time. “I had a lunch date with Marvin well, for Elie is one of the prime design truths. I study Kabbalah because I find “It was the Eighties, and women re- Traub, who had heard about me from talents of the Eighties.” it is endless truth.” ally began to make their mark in the Barbara Bass, his general merchandise Tahari’s business has evolved quite {Continued on page 8} CONGRATULATIONS TO CUSTOMER

ON 40 YEARS AS A FASHION POWERHOUSE

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WWDMILESTONES

{Continued from page 6} Fall 1985 There are still some classic Elie- An ad from isms that remain part of his daily the Eighties. philosophy, among them, “Even a kick in the ass is good when it faces the right direction.” He admits that he is more spiritual than he has ever been, and his Middle Eastern roots continue to play an im- portant role in the Tahari story. In fact, bowls full of roasted almonds are placed throughout his headquarters; his executive assistant arranged for baklava for this meeting. For his 40th milestone, he created a capsule called Elie Tahari Edition 1974, with updated versions of his most iconic looks, including a new tube top, jumpsuit, power suit, tuxedo and several signature leather pieces for spring 2014. These looks will be unveiled as part of his spring presentation today. “Over the years, I feel so blessed to have had the opportunity to make

an impact on the fashion world,” forward to the next 40 years filled with Tahari said. “I was one of a small light and truth.” group of designers to create a mod- His life mission goes far beyond ern sportswear section in depart- just making clothes. These days, he ment stores. It was important to loves nothing more than spending serve our customers and meet their time with his children — 12-year-old needs. I wanted to create a shopping Jeremy and nine-year-old Zoe — and area, which eventually became whole his girlfriend, Joanne Blessinger. floors where ladies could have their Tahari takes his future on spiritually. blouses, dresses, jackets. This was “I feel my work on planet Earth has the birth of modern sportswear, at only just begun,” he said. “Business that time called bridge. is a means to do your real work. I feel “When I reflect over the past 40 I have a reason for me to really go to years, I am so grateful to my loyal work, and the reason I am here is not Elie Tahari had a hit with customers. They are my biggest ac- only to do with our industry and busi- the tube top in 1973. complishment, the ones who made my ness. I am appreciative for this life

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY dreams a reality,” he reflected. “I look and owe a lot to it in return.”

Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood. The hangout was viewed by more than one million fans. Scott Currie Several digital initiatives surrounding the brand’s 40th anniversary launched last week, when the de- Chic Click signer was honored by New York City and Mayor Michael Bloomberg on “Elie Tahari Day.” The Expanding the digital initiative. hashtag #ElieTahari40, created to mark the occa- By Rachel Strugatz sion, is appearing on the social platforms where it maintains a presence, as well as on shopping bags, ELIE TAHARI REVEALED via Skype the winner of print ads, elietahari.com, e-mail signatures company- his New York Fashion Week competition last month, wide and online banner ads. during which entrants had to “like” the brand’s “What I find to be the biggest change is how Facebook page and post a comment with the hashtag engaged the consumer has become,” said Scott #ElieTahari40. Currie, Elie Tahari vice president of global com- The brand then took this a step further: The con- munications. “The beginning was just about push- versation was recorded and broadcast across Elie ing out material about the brand, but once Elie Tahari’s social channels so followers on Facebook, got really involved in social [it changed]. If you Twitter and Instagram could watch the announce- look on Facebook or Twitter, there is a nice en- ment. Tahari received more than 2,500 entries for gagement rate of people writing back and giving the contest. us insight. When we announced Elie Tahari Day, “Instead of inviting somebody from Los Angeles the number of people that wrote to congratulate to New York to present to the winner, we did it on- him was amazing.” line so everyone could see it. Years ago, we had a The company also operates ETC Magazine, its personal appearance, and now it’s a ‘public appear- online magazine that features trends, behind-the- ance’ [because of digital]. Now you can help more scenes shots, celebrities spotted wearing Elie Tahari people online,” Tahari said, describing tools like and celebrity contributors like Jessica Stam, also the Skype and Google Hangouts. In July, the designer face of the fall ad campaign. participated in a Google Hangout with blogger Kelly Product shots garner a strong response from fans, Saks and Glamour magazine at Google’s offices in as well as anything pertaining to Tahari’s personal life — whether it’s a quote from him or a photo of him speaking at a class — Currie said. The company unveiled the 40th anniversary logo on Instagram to coincide with Mayor Bloomberg’s proclamation. It also revealed images from its spe- cial 40th anniversary capsule collection exclusively on the platform, with select styles available for pre- order on elietahari.com in January. Beyond the social channels — on which Currie ad- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY mitted Elie Tahari didn’t become heavily active until about two years ago — e-commerce has become in- bilities, and international shipping will be available creasingly integral to the business. in early September. According to Currie, the brand’s digital flagship As for the digital marketing spend, a significant por- at elietahari.com is the company’s number-one store tion is dedicated to paid search, but Currie maintains — and it has been since six months after launching that the brand has never had a “huge ad spend.” at the end of 2011. Ten percent of direct sales comes “We create synergies across all mediums,” he said. from elietahari.com. “The new campaign hitting now is consistently launch- A shot of ETC Magazine. The site just enabled review and feedback capa- ing as banner ads [online], print ads and in-store.”

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WWDMILESTONES Galvin’s Game Plan Chief executive officer Bob Galvin is working with the designer on expansion and transforming the company’s mind-set. By Lisa Lockwood

BOB GALVIN, chief executive offi- propriate, and that the fit is ap- cer of Elie Tahari Ltd., is on a mis- Bob Galvin propriate,” added Galvin. sion to bring a retail mentality to the In fact, one point of differen- sportswear stalwart. tiation about Tahari’s line is the “We want to think and act like multigenerational aspect. “There retailers in what we do,” said are moms that come in with their Galvin, who was hired last January daughters and both come out with to strengthen and position the $500 an Elie Tahari wardrobe that’s ap- million fashion company for aggres- propriate for them,” said Galvin. sive growth. He was charged with Galvin said Tahari has never spearheading wholesale, retail and considered a different label for international sales for women’s and the casual aspects of the line, be- men’s collections, as well as fortify- lieving that the Elie Tahari brand ing such areas as accessories, mer- is elastic enough to be both casu- chandising, marketing, licensing, al and career. In 2002, Tahari had product development and produc- his logo redesigned by Fabien tion. His appointment freed up Elie Baron and they changed the com- Tahari, chairman, to focus on prod- pany’s moniker to Elie Tahari so uct and design. it would have a designer name. Galvin said his primary attrac- The ratio of career to casual tion to the brand was the opportu- has changed in the past 25 years, nity to work with Tahari. along with what is considered “Elie is a visionary and product acceptable to wear on the job, genius,” said Galvin, who cut his Galvin said. teeth at Camuto Group, Fila and “Career clothing has evolved Nine West. “When you have a brand over the years along with wom- that’s survived for 40 years, that’s a en’s roles in the workplace. wonderful combination.” Twenty-five years ago, women When he joined the company, the were not given too many options first thing he did was get to know the when it came to work attire. designer, to understand his vision Today there is so much more flex- and what he valued so they were ibility as the corporate world has moving in the right direction. become less formal and women “What Elie had established was a have many more options, so it wonderful foundation over 40 years. would be hard to determine what There was a lot of diversification percentage would be designated built in. You had a men’s business as exclusively ‘career.’ and you had a women’s business. “We find that for work, the You had a specialty store business, Elie Tahari woman buys transi- outlet store business and e-com- tional pieces and styles of dress- merce business. You had Elie Tahari es and separates that she can Collection and the diffusion lines, T wear to work and also take her Tahari [which was launched in 2007 into the evening for dinner or as an exclusive with Macy’s and is cocktails,” he said. now widely distributed] and Tahari Asked how they are able to [an off-price label],” said Galvin. stay young and bring in the next Nevertheless, there were places that generation of Elie Tahari custom- were underdeveloped. ers, Galvin said the company is Women’s currently generates 85 taking several steps. percent of the business, while men’s “One is having the younger accounts for 15 percent. customer get to know Elie Tahari, His main priorities have been to the person and the designer. It’s expand Tahari’s men’s business, T always easier when you can con- Tahari, licensing (see page 18), global nect to that person, so social and direct-to-consumer operations. media is a big initiative,” he said. Tahari launched its e-commerce Web “Elie is a true designer, and it’s site in August 2011. “With a lot of ef- people getting to know him.

fort and energy, it will double in sales THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY “The other thing is, if you look this year,” said Galvin. at Elie’s designs, they’re true to Thinking and acting like retailers who that customer is, and there’s is a common thread that weaves through everything cludes units for the collection and outlets. There also a modern element, so it’s attractive to a younger they do. One of Galvin’s goals is to control and en- are more than 600 points of distribution for the Elie consumer at the same time.” hance the customer experience, whether it’s online, Tahari collection. The designer keeps tabs on the contemporary in the company’s own freestanding stores or at whole- “What I’ve tried to instill with Elie’s support is market by shopping the stores, talking to customers sale accounts. that we need to expand [the brand’s] footprint as far and making personal appearances. “He always comes The team consistently strives to improve the brand as the product and presence is concerned. While Elie back inspired from one of these trips,” said Galvin. message, the look of the visuals and the product, as has a tremendous amount of mind share in terms of Tahari plans to expand its retail presence in the well as how the sales associates and brand ambassa- consumer awareness and recognition, I like to think U.S. and abroad. Right now, the company is consid- dors present the merchandise in the stores. our responsibility is to increase the closet share of ering locations in such markets as Los Angeles, New “Do they understand the product, and do they Elie Tahari. Most consumers out there are aware of York, San Francisco, Chicago and Miami for addition- have the proper tools and training to enhance the who Elie Tahari is and the depth, credibility and di- al freestanding stores. sales experience?” asked Galvin. rection of his product,” he said. “From a store perspective, I look for us to grow Over the past year, the firm has made several key Galvin acknowledged that Tahari was known more in a double-digit manner over the next few years,” hires to improve the sales team, as well as nam- for career in the early days, and has since evolved into said Galvin. ing Fabio Guidetti president of international for a full lifestyle collection. “So it’s not just 9 to 5 in the Tahari opened a full-price pop-up shop in June at Tahari. There are close to 150 dedicated people in work environment, but it’s 9 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days 510 Fifth Avenue in New York, which he’s using as a the field through department store programs and a week,” he said. The suitings and dresses are now laboratory. Products are manufactured on the fourth field merchandisers. rounded out with denim, casual T-shirts and knitwear. and fifth floors of the building and are then tested in the At present, Tahari has 12 freestanding specialty “Elie’s always concerned that his woman — store. The space is frequently the site of photo shoots. stores and just under 40 stores in total, which in- whether she’s 25, 45 or 55 — looks great and feels ap- {Continued on page 12}

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Galvin’s Game Plan The Middle East is a major growth spot. Here, the shop in Istanbul.

{Continued from page 10} “Elie’s vision is to take that and roll it out to a larger retail footprint,” said Galvin. He noted, too, that Tahari and the visual, sales, marketing and design teams spend time in the store. “Elie’s always going down there. That’s where he starts and ends his day. We do test shoots for the e- commerce team down there. We do set-ups for the mannequin displays, and we have DJs on Thursdays.” He said the store is also a useful tool to get customer feedback — “It’s part commercial and part experimental.” The pop-up will remain open through the end of the year. To celebrate its 40th anniversary, Tahari will offer Elie Tahari Edition 1974, a select group of pieces that encapsulate his career, such as a suit, a leath- er piece, a tube top and a trenchcoat. They will be available in stores this spring. International expansion is another big initia- tive at the firm. Currently, Tahari is distributed in more than 30 countries, including Australia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, the Philippines, South Korea, Taiwan, Belgium, Germany, Italy, Ireland, the U.K., the Netherlands, Poland, Russia, Azerbaijan, Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Brazil, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Dubai, Israel, Kuwait, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Bermuda and South Africa. “We are growing in Eastern Europe, Middle East and Asia,” said Guidetti, who was previously senior vice president of international sales at St. John. “We are currently registering great sell-through perfor- mance from the spring 2013 season. Our major part- ners in Spain, Mexico and Korea are also registering a positive performance from the previous year.” At present, 10 percent of Tahari’s business is done overseas, with plans to grow to 30 percent, he said. There are 250 points of distribution overseas and nearly 50 freestanding shops. Guidetti noted that over the next 12 months, the main focus will be on China, Eastern Europe, the U.K., France and Germany. “I always welcome and target customers and cit- ies where the affluence of tourism is growing and be- coming a significant part of their business,” he said. He noted that this month, the company’s e-commerce site will add the capabilities to ship internationally to more than 100 countries. Interestingly, Tahari has built a half-billion-dollar business (in wholesale and retail sales) with relative- in developing an e-commerce Web site. Tahari also The biggest wholesale markets currently for the ly little traditional advertising. likes to go into the stores, make personal appearanc- Elie Tahari brand are New York, California, Las Vegas, “We haven’t had a big advertising presence,” said es and get involved with charity events, such as Saks Florida and Dallas. The brand also does a strong busi- Scott Currie, vice president of global communica- Fifth Avenue’s “Catwalk for the Cure,” an annual ness in Greenwich, Conn., and Houston. Top accounts tions. “She [the customer] is coming in for the clothes event that takes place in Houston in November. This are Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf because she identifies with the brand.” year, as the featured designer, Tahari will present a Goodman and Neiman Marcus. Galvin noted that Elie Galvin said the company made a big investment fashion show of his spring looks at the Hotel ZaZa. Tahari is the largest sportswear vendor at Saks and is in 43 doors. The brand has the largest space on the “Wear Now” fourth floor, a 2,500-square-foot shop. Joseph Boitano, group senior vice president and general merchandise manager of Saks, said, “Tahari has been and continues to be an important brand for Saks Fifth Avenue. Their dedication to outstanding design, precise tailoring and use of elegant fabrics is exactly what the Saks customer wants.” At Bloomingdale’s, “For the last 20 years, Elie has been the backbone of our New View department,” said Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager of ready-to-wear and bloomingdales.com. Galvin said for the current fall season, product has performed well and the initial read is strong. Besides helping transform the company’s mind- set, creating a vibrant international business and ex- panding products and direct-to-consumer business, Galvin said, “We want to make sure the here and now is functioning properly and that we’re moving the ball forward. Elie is thinking two or three steps down the road. He’s thinking about what will happen with the market, how the consumer will want to shop, what’s the message we want to send. The one thing about Elie is, he’s not opposed to change.” He also said he’s learned a lot from Tahari. “I’m able to gain a better understanding of him, the vision and the aesthetic.…I think of the world of Elie as far as what he creates, the vision he has and how he wants to reshape the way the business is con- ducted,” Galvin stated. “He’s not looking to say, ‘What was done the last 10 years?’ Elie is thinking about what he wants to do for the next 10 years. He’s abso- Tahari’s Fifth Avenue store. lutely focused on the future.”

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Spring 2012

Reaching the Modern Man Counting on men’s as a key growth driver. By David Lipke

NOT A SINGLE men’s wear design leaves you can go out with it. We’re doing sweat- Father’s Day encompass about 24 styles. company is contemplating opening a the Elie Tahari design studios without pants that look cool. It’s all about feeling “Our Tahari customer is looking for temporary men’s-only store next year. Elie Tahari giving it a test run first. good but also about looking good.” quality pieces with a modern, updated Men’s generates 10 percent of overall “I try on every piece. I have an aver- Tahari first launched his men’s aesthetic. We see a lot of our female company sales for the Tahari brand. age height, and I don’t think we should sportswear collection in the fall of 2006, customers who know Tahari women’s Besides the core sportswear busi- fit on a runway model,” reasoned the initially as a minor supplement to the buying Tahari men’s,” said Tom Ott, ness, the men’s offerings have expand- hands-on founder and chairman of Elie core women’s business. More recently, senior vice president and general mer- ed to a number of licensed categories. Tahari. “I think we should fit on a regu- the business has grown in importance, chandise manager of men’s and home Current licenses are Peerless Clothing lar guy. I do clothes for a body that is a and the company is aiming to make at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Printed wovens for suits and suit separates; PVH Corp. regular body, that everyone can wear. men’s a key growth driver in the future. and outerwear are our strongest clas- for dress shirts and ties; Collezione And I want to know that there’s a rea- Today, Elie Tahari men’s wear is sifications season after season.” for outerwear; Imperial for under- son for me to buy it. If I don’t need it, wholesaled to about 120 retail ac- This fall, Saks partnered with Elie wear and furnishings — with gloves why are we doing it?” counts. Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Tahari on an exclusive leather capsule and scarves to come next fall — and That real-world approach infuses Avenue are the largest partners, fol- line, helping to fill a need in the luxury Colors in Optics for eyewear, which the entire men’s collection, which em- lowed by Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and a retailer’s leather assortments. will launch in stores next year. phasizes simplicity in silhouette mar- host of independent specialty stores. In “Tahari has historically done very Other men’s license areas that ried to a modern stance. There’s a Europe, the men’s collection is stocked well with great quality leather styles at Tahari sees future potential in include sleek attitude to the brand, but comfort in Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Saks, so we see this as an opportunity shoes, bags and watches. is always paramount to Tahari. Harrod’s and Harvey Nichols. for growth,” noted Ott, pointing to de- Last month, the company showed its “I would say it’s more on the casual There are six deliveries of men’s signs like a slim suede shirt jacket in men’s collection at the Project trade side than the dressed-up side. We do wear annually, compared with 12 deliv- midnight blue and bottle green, a black show in Las Vegas, a first for the brand. pants for men that are like sweatpants, eries in the larger women’s collection. motorcycle-style shearling jacket and a “It was great exposure to specialty but it’s not a traditional sweatpant. It’s These include spring, Father’s Day, a four-pocket lambskin field jacket. stores and in general for marketing got a narrow leg,” explained Tahari. summer-to-fall transition range, fall, Apart from wholesale, Elie Tahari purposes. Several new accounts were “Sweatpants were for sweating in the holiday and pre-spring. The primary men’s wear is sold at the company’s added in the U.S. and Canada as a re- past. Today, if a sweatpant has a great spring and fall deliveries offer about own freestanding stores, including sult of attending Project,” said Sandy cut, you put something dressy on top and 140 styles, while smaller deliveries like 12 full-price units and 24 outlets. The {Continued on page 16} “Clothing should be quieter than the woman so that her true beauty can shine through.”

- ELIE TAHARI

MACY’S AND BLOOMINGDALE’S CONGRATULATE ELIE TAHARI

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{Continued from page 14} Wax, president of men’s and special projects at Fall 2010 Elie Tahari. Wax joined the company last November after previously founding and running Tahari outerwear licensee Collezione. Wax sold that company to S. Rothschild, a maker of women’s outerwear, in March 2012.

For fall 2014, the company will launch re- plenishment programs in suits and denim to boost those categories, said Wax. Last year, Tahari updated its in-store shops at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street and the flagship Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. The renova-

tions included new video screens, updated fixtures, backlit displays and furniture, in- cluding an orange Hans Wegner “Papa Bear” chair — a favorite of Tahari’s, who is a collec- tor of midcentury modern furniture — in the Bloomingdale’s shop. Adjacencies for·· Elie Tahari at Bloomingdale’s include Armani Collezione, Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss. At Saks, adjacencies include Theory, Emporio Armani and Z Zegna. Tahari believes that men’s remains a work in progress but has the potential to become a major building block for the brand. “I think when we get our men’s wear where it needs to be, it will fuel a lot of our growth,” he noted. Tahari would like to amp up the design fac- tor in the men’s collections to bring it up to par with women’s. A fall 2012 look from licensee Peerless. Fall 2013 I see more men open to new ideas in dressing. — ELIE TAHARI

“I think we can do a better job. I think the women’s design has been a lot cooler and younger and trendier than the men’s,” he ac- knowledged. “I think the men’s is going to catch up this year.” Men’s wear was a secondary consideration at the company for much of its history, the de- signer conceded. “We launched at a time when we owned fac- tories in Italy and I had a house ··in Tuscany and men’s was thriving in Italy, obviously,” recalled Tahari. “Really, I did it for myself and what I would like to wear. We didn’t take it as seri- ously as we are taking it now. We were too busy with women’s wear. At the time we started, it was like a toy — we needed some men’s wear for our own stores and we were playing with it. But now, we are looking at it and thinking how to turn it into a big business internationally.” Tahari see a cultural shift in the way men dress, making the category ripe for expansion. “Men are ready to dress in fashion. When I was growing up, 40 years ago when I came to New York, men were not interested,” remem- bered Tahari. “I think now they are interested. Maybe it’s my perception. But I see more men Fall 2011 open to new ideas in dressing.” Celebrities who have recently worn Elie Tahari include Bradley Cooper, Andrew Rannells, Justin Bartha, Darren Criss and Penn Badgley. “People are into their bodies. They go to the gym, exercise and eat healthy. They are getting more educated. Naturally they want to pay more attention to how they look on the out- side,” observed Tahari. “Of course, the inside is more important. But it’s all one thing — you have to pay attention to the inside and the out- side. The world is smarter now.” Moving forward, Tahari is buoyant about the road ahead. “I’m planning to go with the flow and let the light guide me,” said the designer. Of his four decades in business, Tahari said he’s just getting started. “I think it takes 40 years to learn about this industry. I think I just graduated and I’m ready to do it. I’m a slow student — it took me 40 years,” he quipped. “You know, there are [lots of] people in the U.S. who are over 100 years old now. So, I have a chance. In another 40 years, I’ll be in that category.” I I 18 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES Women’s footwear is made by Highline United; scarves are by Imperial; eyewear by Colors in Optics.

Finishing Touches Expanding into an array of apparel, accessories and home categories is essential for building a lifestyle brand. By Lisa Lockwood

ELIE TAHARI’S licensing program has tional shops with partners, nonapparel begun to percolate. categories become very important. This The company’s three brands — Elie will help fuel our growth both domesti- Tahari, Tahari and T Tahari — have cally and internationally.” developed licensing programs to vari- Top priorities for the company are ous degrees in categories ranging from developing the home business — table- women’s footwear, handbags, hosiery, top and bedding — and forging a jewelry, sunglasses and outerwear to handbag deal for the Elie Tahari men’s underwear, shirts and suits. brand. It already has a handbag “The goal is not only to expand what license for T Tahari and Tahari we do on a wholesale basis. But [li- with Envisage Group. Also high on censed products] will also enhance the the wish list is a fragrance. shopping experience online and in our “That would be one of the biggest stores,” said Bob Galvin, chief execu- opportunities for growth,” said Galvin, “We have a huge men’s initiative hats, gloves and scarves, as well as tive officer of Elie Tahari Ltd. “Today, noting that the marketing and advertis- under way in accessories [belts, small men’s underwear. non-apparel-related items represent 5 ing supporting it, and the great visuals, leather goods, cuff links]. We do suits, For spring, Tahari will launch wom- percent or less of sales. Our goal is to would boost Tahari’s global presence. shirts and ties,” said Galvin. en’s and men’s sunglasses with Colors have it be 20 to 30 percent of all store At present, however, no fragrance deals He also noted that the company in Optics. sales. You need the product categories are imminent. “We’re talking to a number is looking aggressively into kids’ ap- Asked why they haven’t been more to drive that.” of people in the category,” he added. parel and footwear, and is consid- aggressive with licensing over the past Having an expanded footwear offer- Men’s has been a growing cat- ering women’s swimwear, women’s 40 years and are becoming more so ing, for example, will allow Tahari to egory, and the firm has inked deals loungewear and activewear. The firm now, Galvin said it’s important to find expand that business quicker overseas, with Peerless Clothing, PVH Corp., recently signed deals with Imperial the best partners out there, that not he said. “As we’re rolling out interna- Collezione SA and Imperial. for men’s and women’s cold weather only have great quality, but get Tahari’s aesthetic and design and understand the DNA of the brand. LICENSEES PRODUCT LABEL “It’s easy to do a lot of licensing deals. Highline United Women’s footwear Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari Everyone that I pick up the phone and call would love to become part of the S. Rothschild Women’s outerwear Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari Elie Tahari family. We’re just much more K&M Associates Women’s jewelry T Tahari, Tahari selective in terms of who we invite to be part of the family,” said Galvin. “Elie Envisage Group Women’s handbags and small leather goods T Tahari, Tahari loves product and loves having great Peerless Clothing Men’s suits, sports coats, trousers, tuxedos Elie Tahari product that represents him in the mar- Collezione SA Men’s outerwear Elie Tahari ketplace. Whether sunglasses or a belt, anything that has his name attached to it PVH Corp. Men’s dress shirts and ties Elie Tahari has to be Elie Tahari. If his name is out Imperial Women’s scarves Elie Tahari there, it has to be wonderful.” Imperial Women’s cold weather and gloves Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari Galvin said Tahari gives the licens- ees design direction. Imperial Men’s gloves, scarves, underwear and handkerchiefs Elie Tahari “The right category expert is able to Colors in Optics Sunglasses, optical eyewear Elie Tahari, Tahari, T Tahari interpret [Tahari’s aesthetic] into that Mallory & Church Women’s hosiery and socks Elie Tahari product category so it’s on-brand. And {Continued on page 20}

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{Continued from page 18} vice president of Colors in Optics, said She’s very sophisticated, timeless and a lifestyle brand. We design for every then it comes back to us for approval. that Elie Tahari and Tahari sunglasses wants to be of the moment.” occasion where she would need a Nothing goes out without Elie’s OK,” will launch next spring. T Tahari sun- Elie Tahari eyewear and sunglasses coat,” said Ferraro. “It’s very much said Galvin. glasses will launch in spring 2015, as will be all hand-made of European the DNA of Elie Tahari. It has a very Rick Paterno, ceo of Highline well as optical frames for Elie Tahari. acetates and European hinging. They easy-to-understand aesthetic. As his United, the women’s footwear li- “We were always fascinated by will have a discrete logo, reflective line has evolved, we tailor that to censee for all three brands, said the Elie’s exceptional designs and the of the Tahari brand, she said. As for our market. Elie has a very good eye. footwear labels have been doing well. way he interprets fashion. It’s a great design, she said, “They would have a He’ll give us a general feeling, such The collections “take their design fit for us,” said Hutton. “We are a de- modern twist on the retro infusion in as the colors, silhouettes and overall cues from Elie.” eyewear today.” spirit, and we try and complement “He’s very involved. It’s clean, Elie Tahari sunglasses will retail his collection.” sophisticated and modern, and for $150 to $250 and are geared to Elie Tahari outerwear wholesales we work very closely with Elie better department stores and opti- from $120 to $400, depending on the in design,” said Paterno, noting cal shops. T Tahari, aimed at depart- classification. T Tahari wholesales from that Highline’s designer meets with ment stores, will retail approximate- $65 to $150, while Tahari coats go from Tahari a few times each season. ly from $75 to $95, and the Tahari $50 to $135. “We try to keep the same The Elie Tahari label is sold in brand, which is geared to volume- aesthetic across the board. The custom- stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, driven retailers, sells for around $50. er who loves Elie Tahari should be able Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Jack Mann, ceo of Imperial, said to get it at any level,” she said. Marcus, and the Tahari footwear his company licensed Elie Tahari for She added Tahari has been consis- brand — the largest piece of the women’s accessories including cold- tent for 40 years. business — is geared to stores weather and fashion scarves, hats and “He’s one of the first people to such as Macy’s, Lord & Taylor and gloves, as well as men’s underwear, understand branding and gives the Belk. Paterno said Highline recent- scarves, hats, gloves, handkerchiefs customer what she wants. Elie does ly presented the T Tahari collection and pocket squares. a lot of in-store events and he’s got to Nordstrom. “We think it’s a great company with quite a following. He made a name Paterno said the color and mate- great brand recognition,” said Mann. for himself and delivers consistent, rial direction is coordinated with “It hits the more contemporary, more fashionable and on-trend outer- Tahari’s sportswear collections. modern customer.” wear,” said Ferraro. Historically, the Elie Tahari foot- Mann believes there are numerous Describing the essence of the Elie wear line was “pretty dressy and so- synergies with the ready-to-wear col- Tahari brand and what the team hopes phisticated, but now we’ve expanded lection. He said Tahari designs a lot of their products convey, Galvin summed the casual and weekend collection nuanced colors and shades “and really it up this way: “Elie’s all about femi- with more sneakers, sport casuals wonderful print designs.” He said his ninity. Whatever the product is about, and flats,” he said. own design team works collaboratively it has to exude femininity. It’s not a “It performs well. We just came with Tahari’s team. harsh leather, it’s a soft leather.” off FFANY [the Fashion Footwear Elie Tahari eyewear launches in the spring. Betsy Ferraro, president of better He added that from a design per- Association of New York show], and the women’s outerwear at S. Rothschild spective, Tahari loves architecture and reaction to the collection was outstand- sign house for eyewear, and we’re & Co., said her company makes every fit, and there’s a richness to his product. ing. We’ve had two good shows back to both timeless, sophisticated and use type of outerwear for its Elie Tahari, T “You look at the clothing and the back,” said Paterno. fresh styling of the moment that can Tahari and Tahari collections, includ- way Elie is able to mix materials and Elie Tahari footwear retails from last for years to come.” ing leather, wool, down, fake fur and have things come together that cre- $200 to $350, while T Tahari is in the She described the Elie Tahari puffer coats and jackets. ates a ‘wow’ factor. He’s also known for $120 to $200 range and Tahari footwear woman as someone “who has a sense of “We do all classifications,” she great prints,” Galvin said. “I think ma- goes from $90 to $140. her own creativity, has a great sense of said, from sporty to dressy. “The Elie terial innovation and design direction Rhona Hutton, creative director and style and is diverse in what she likes. Tahari customer isn’t ubercasual. It’s is all about Elie.”

doors in Mexico with eight new shops scheduled to open next year. In Spain, the collection is of- fered in 12 stores and six more will make their debuts in 2014. Developing more concept shops domestically and overseas is another priority. While the sig- T Time nature collection offers more select pieces in- The younger line gets a boost. cluding what Galvin described as “great leather By Rosemary Feitelberg outerwear north of $1,000,” the T Tahari collec- tion is more affordable, but of the same design AGGRESSIVE GROWTH PLANS are in store for the aesthetic and quality. T Tahari collection. Around the globe, dresses and blouses con- The Elie Tahari Co. aims to strengthen the pres- tinue to be bestsellers, he said. Current offer- ence of its secondary line in international markets ings at Nordstrom, for example, include the T while building its U.S. base. Drawing upon the Elie Tahari Asher shirtdress at $138 and the T Tahari Tahari brand’s heritage, T Tahari is meant to offer Sisley zip-front blouse at $108. accessible luxury and understated, chic design to a So shoppers might have a closer tie to the com- broader audience. Launched in spring 2007, T Tahari pany’s founder, Tahari is expected to make more has become a recognizable label in the past six years, public appearances to try to build awareness for and offering affordable price points has been a key the T Tahari collection around the world. A trip to part of its strategy. Blouses retail from $79 to $118, Spain is being planned for next year, and Mexico dresses run from $128 to $158 and outerwear falls be- is also a possibility, as the company continues to tween $200 and $400. grow its business in those countries. “Elie wants to be sure there is always great value in the product,” Galvin said, “because he understands that in this economy, shoppers have all sorts of choices to make.” It generates about 20 percent of the $500 million There is also talk of developing the first T fashion company’s volume. Tahari advertising campaign, though nothing While the domestic market continues to be an has been finalized just yet. area of emphasis, this year and next T Tahari will The T Tahari label is now offered in 200 continue to build its American and overseas busi- doors and that figure is expected to increase in A fall style from T Tahari at Bloomingdale’s. nesses by broadening its range of products and up- the next 12 months. The introduction of a foot- grading the collection. Among the initiatives are wear collection this fall through a licensing deal of a modern, younger sister. That said, Galvin was plans to renovate the 700-square-foot T Tahari con- with Modern Shoe is one of the ways the company quick to note that both lines are treated with the cept shop in Bloomingdale’s flagship, according to plans to build the business. The way things stand, same degree of attention in care and design develop- Bob Galvin, chief executive officer of Elie Tahari. U.S. sales account for 80 percent of all T Tahari sales, ment. There is also a good deal of crossover shopping The concept shop at Lord & Taylor will also get an with international comprising the remaining 20 per- among consumers who buy merchandise from both upgrade and it will be expanded to 1,200 square feet. cent, Galvin said. labels and mix them, he said. As of late August, the average T Tahari in-store shop Launched last year, T Tahari handbags are cur- Further emphasizing the international develop- was about 200 square feet. rently sold via Nordstrom and Belk. A large T Tahari ment of the collection, executives are working on Overseas, T Tahari is currently sold in more than dome satchel, which retails for $238, is among the of- plans to possibly show T Tahari in Milan, which could 50 doors, and executives are keen to foster growth ferings. Elie Tahari sunglasses will launch this spring come next year. And, to make sure product gets in through existing partners in Europe and Asia. As and T Tahari shades will launch in fall 2015. hands around the world, the company is also focused things are, the label’s two largest accounts are in Connected as the two collections are, executives on executing its shipping through its distribution cen- Mexico and Spain. Shoppers can find T Tahari in 22 at the company think of the T Tahari label as more ters in New Jersey, Europe, Canada and Hong Kong. VISION IS THE ART OF SEEING ALL THAT IS POSSIBLE.

WE SALUTE ELIE TAHARI FOR 40 STYLISH YEARS. 22 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES Levine’s Lessons A basic truth guides the Tahari ASL business. By Arthur Friedman

ARTHUR S. LEVINE has run multimil- lion-dollar companies for many years in the often-complicated fashion world, Arthur S. Levine but has developed a simple philosophy for success. “The only thing that matters is the product,” Levine said in a phone in- terview, when asked about the key lessons learned in his 50-year career. “And there’s no substitute for quality and look.” As a partner and chief executive officer of Tahari ASL, which includes the Tahari Arthur S. Levine brand of suits and dresses, as well as a private- label division, Levine’s legacy on Seventh Avenue is deep, established as the longtime ceo and chairman of Kasper ASL and principal and ceo of Anne Klein. Levine, who was also owner and ceo of the fa- bled Bobbie Brooks company in the late Sixties and early Seventies, recalled that while the partnership with Elie Tahari was a long time in for- mation, it hit a formidable ob- stacle out of the starting gate. That’s because Levine and Tahari started the Tahari ASL business on Sept. 10, 2001, the day be- fore the Sept. 11 attacks, so it was a pre- carious time to begin a new endeavor. “Elie really pushed me on, he was

my biggest cheerleader,” Levine said. THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY “It has turned out to be a very success- ful venture and an exciting 12 years.” Levine also runs the Catherine days at Bobbie Brooks, Sasson, Anne ties, in the early days of importing. It Levine said he has known Tahari for Malandrino business. Last month, Klein, Sassco and Kasper, Levine said was at that time that Levine had sold nearly the entire 40 years he has been Bluestar Alliance acquired a major- he has seen the industry evolve be- 50 percent of Bobbie Brooks to Chinese in business. ity stake in the Catherine Malandrino yond his imagination. manufacturing executive Tomio Taki. “He was making better suits, and I brand and intellectual property as- “It’s a completely a different world “Tomio Taki brought me to China, was knocking him off all through those sets from Tahari ASL and established today,” he said. “In the old days, if you and I started operating out of there,” he years,” he said. “As a design talent, he a joint venture that is majority-owned didn’t sell Macy’s, you could sell to said. “By 1980, we were totally operat- certainly inspired me. I copied almost by Bluestar, in partnership with Tahari Gimbels or Ohrbach’s. There were so ing out of Hong Kong and Taiwan, and everything he made. We used to meet ASL. Levine said Tahari ASL retained many opportunities.” in the Nineties I transitioned to China. for lunch once a year, never knowing about 25 percent ownership. Today, following decades of re- In 1995, we opened our own factory in what was going to happen to Kasper Tahari and Levine had invested and tail consolidations, the industry has China while I was at Kasper and it was would happen, with Leslie Fay going formed a partnership with Malandrino changed drastically, especially at the very successful. When Elie and I opened into bankruptcy.” in 2011. department store level, he noted, in 2001, at the same time we opened a In 1992, Kasper ASL was a division “I was looking for a sportswear which has dwindled down to a precious factory in [Shenzhen] China. We had 200 of the Leslie Fay Cos., which was rocked brand for a long time,” he said. “Elie few key operators. people working for us. Today, we have by an accounting scandal in which two always admired Catherine as a design- “If anybody would have told me about 700 people. It’s a very good factory. of its executives fraudulently reported er, and I felt the same way.” seven or eight years ago that Amazon Suits are a very difficult product to make. quarterly figures. In April 1993, Leslie He noted that the Malandrino com- would be one of our biggest accounts, There has to be a mentality in the factory Fay was forced to declare bankruptcy, pany had fallen into a difficult finan- I would have had them put away,” he to work with very high standards.” where it remained for five tumultuous cial condition, particularly with large said. “It’s been one hell of a trip from About 15 to 20 percent of the line is years and eventually folded. investments in its own stores in places the world after World War II to the one made in that factory. Levine noted that Levine said after that, “We started like Las Vegas and Los Angeles that we’re in today in the fashion business. about 10 years ago, he started manufac- talking about ‘What if?’ Kasper was had not done well. You’ve got to be better today than you turing in Vietnam, and “we do quite a sold to Jones, and then I went to Elie “We opened eight months ago for were back then. In those days, if you bit there now.” and said, ‘I’m ready.’ From that point, fall, and it’s been fantastic,” Levine were mediocre, there was always some- Levine said the Catherine it took less than two weeks. It’s been a said. “Now, we’re really going to blast one to sell to. Today, you’re either with Malandrino line does some manufac- great run.” that open.” it or you’re not.” turing in New York. He agreed with the The executive noted the Tahari ASL He said Blue Star’s expertise in li- One of the biggest stories, Levine trend that much of the production that suit and dress business, which had ini- censing and brand extension “will take said, is the dress sector. He said in has expanded or come back to the U.S. tial projections of $75 million in annual the company sky high.” Eighties and Nineties, the dress business is in the knit sector, which has become sales, went to “$175 million to $200 mil- Malandrino said at the time of the had a steady decline, with many compa- more automated, and the ability to do lion in a few years.” Bluestar investment that her diffusion nies going out of business and stores de- smaller production runs. “Elie has always had the confidence line, which was launched for spring voting less space to the category. He said his business and the Tahari that I would make a product worthy of 2013, has wholesale volume of between “When it did reemerge [which he business have done well in the last five having the Tahari name on the label,” $15 million and $20 million, while the pinpointed to be in 2003], it did so with years since the economic downturn. he said. “Honestly, after Kasper, I designer collection generates wholesale young women who were brought up in a “In the end, it boils down to prod- never thought it could happen again.” volume of around $25 million and is sold world without dresses,” he said. “So it uct,” he said. “If you have product The business started with suits, and in such stores as Bergdorf Goodman, became something new they had never that’s retailing well, you’re going to ex- then Levine began to do private label, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and worn. It reemerged out of the sports- ceed the economy.” mostly for Dillard’s, which he said Bloomingdale’s, as well as on her Web wear market. I started to see in the Looking ahead, Levine said the dress- “has developed into a huge business.” site, catherinemalandrino.com, and sportswear collections that among their es and suited separates have been strong The Tahari ASL collection has also through international accounts. bestsellers were a group of dresses.” and should continue to grow. Noting that moved into what he calls “suited sepa- From his first job in the shipping Levine noted that for the first part the high-end Elie Tahari brand has a rates, which is very good right now,” department in the Kelley Arden divi- of his career, he manufactured locally, chain of its own stores, Levine said, he said, “and our dress business has sion of Stacy Ames Co., where he even- like everybody else. Then he started to “We’re definitely thinking about” open- been fantastic.” tually became sales manager, to his manufacture in Asia in the mid-Seven- ing Tarahi ASL stores down the road. ELIE TAHARI WE’RE CRAZY ABOUT YOU!

From tube tops to tailored suits—your contributions to the industry always have a modern sophistication with a youthful twist. We can’t wait to see what you do next.

Happy 40th Anniversary! 24 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES BY MAYTE ALLENDE MAYTE BY MAKEUP BY DAVID STELLA FOR ELLIS FAAS COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION ASSISTANT: CATHERINE BROADBENT; STYLED BROADBENT; CATHERINE ASSISTANT: LAUREN POGGI; FASHION COSMETICS; PHOTO ASSISTANT: STELLA DAVID FOR ELLIS FAAS MAKEUP BY

SophisticatedPale and sexy, but still with structure Fire — the Elie Tahari spring collection, here through page 32, offers plenty of casual, chic and dressy options. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: DARIA P/WILHELMINA AND AURELIA/FORD MODELS; HAIR BY JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX BEAUTY; MODELS; HAIR JEANIE SYFU USING TRESEMMÉ/ARTMIX GEORGE CHINSEE; MODELS: DARIA P/WILHELMINA AND AURELIA/FORD BY PHOTOS BY WE SALUTE

ELIE TAHARI

FOR 40 YEARS OF MODERN SOPHISTICATION AND STYLE

WE ARE PROUD TO BE A PART OF YOUR TEAM

PEERLESS CLOTHING 26 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES A dress from the 40th-anniversary collection, Edition 1974. Congratulations on making “The American Dream Come True” 28 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES With great admiration and respect,

your friends at S. Rothschild & Co., Inc. honor you and the Elie Tahari brand on its

40th anniversary.

Your innovation, creativity, and humility

truly deserve Elie Tahari Day.

Best wishes and continued success.

Sincerely,

Mark Friedman

President of S. Rothschild & Co., Inc.

&

Betsy Ferraro

President of Better Women’s 30 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES You don’t

a day over 29 Congratulations on ELIE TAHARI’s 40th.

ELIE TAHARI JACKET, $498; PANTS, $298 CALL 212.753.4000, VISIT SAKS.COM, DOWNLOAD THE SAKS APP OR FIND US ON FACEBOOK, TWITTER AND SAKSPOV.COM GET THE SAKSFIRST CARD: GIFT CARDS • EXCLUSIVE ACCESS • FREE SHIPPING 32 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES

A dress from the 40th- anniversary collection, Edition 1974. The Rubin Group is honored to be a part of Elie Tahari’s 40th Anniversary celebration.

It is a privilege to be partnered with Elie and share his ongoing vision.

Phone number: 212-791-4300 | Address: 111 John Street, Suite 1900, New York, NY 10038 | Email: [email protected] 34 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES

Fall 1996 Spring 1997

A ROMP THROUGH WOMEN’S CAREERWEAR IN THE SEVENTIES, EIGHTIES AND BEYOND WOULDN’T BE COMPLETE Fall 1989 WITHOUT BIG SHOULDERS, BUT TAHARI EVOLVED WITH THE DECADES TO INCLUDE MUCH MORE. HERE AND ON PAGE 36, A LOOK AT HIS FASHIONS THROUGH THE REARVIEW MIRROR. A Sartorial Journey

Fall 2011 Fall 1983 Fall 1996 Resort 2002 Fall 1999 CONGRATULATIONS

TH

FROM YOUR PARTNERS ARTHUR S. LEVINE & LES SCHREIBER AT ASL

CBIZ AND MAYER HOFFMAN McCANN P.C. CONGRATULATE ELIE TAHARI on 40 great years!

ACCOUNTING & TAX • AUDIT* • CORPORATE RECOVERY • PRIVATE CLIENT SERVICES • BUSINESS CONSULTING

1065 Avenue of the Americas | New York, NY 10018 | 212.790.5700 | www.cbiz.com/cbizmhm-newyork @CBIZNewYork *Mayer Hoffman McCann P.C. is an independent CPA firm providing audit, review and attest services, and works closely with CBIZ, a business consulting, tax and financial services provider. © Copyright 2013. CBIZ, Inc. and Mayer Hoffman McCann P.C. All rights reserved. 36 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES

Resort 1995 Spring 1985

Fall 1984 Resort 2012 Fall 1983 WOULD LIKE TO CONGRATULATE

ON 40 YEARS OF BRINGING US THE BEST IN MODERN LUXURY

Milestones. We measure progress by them.

That’s why it gives us great pleasure to congratulate Elie Tahari on making a positive impact in women’s fashion for 40 years.

HSBC has been helping business visionaries like Elie Tahari achieve success since 1865. With a global network of Commercial Banking experts connected in over 60 countries, find out how HSBC can help your business achieve success here and around the world.

Find out more at us.hsbc.com/business

Douglas Taliaferro Senior Vice President Regional Commercial Executive 212 525-5799 [email protected]

Matilde Reyes Senior Vice President Relationship Manager/Team Leader 212 525-4303 [email protected]

United States persons (including entities) are subject to U.S. taxation on their worldwide income and may be subject to tax and other filing obligations with respect to their U.S. and non U.S. accounts. US persons and entities should consult a tax advisor for more information.

Trade and Supply chain transactions may be subject to credit approval. Certain products and solutions may not be offered in every market. Other restrictions, including specific country regulations may apply. Foreign currency exchange rates may apply to certain trade transactions.

HSBC Bank USA, N.A. Member FDIC, Equal Credit Opportunity Lender. ©2012 HSBC Bank USA, N.A 04265 196267 38 WWD TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2013

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WWDMILESTONES A dress designed by a “Project Runway All Stars” contestant was sold to benefit Helping Hands Save the Garment Center. Tahari gives back. By Rosemary Feitelberg

PHILANTHROPY HAS remained a constant in the York, Tahari said sometimes people need to be re- 40 years Elie Tahari has spent building his company. minded that their own interests should not always As part of the events marking his four decades come first. “Most people tend to think, ‘What will I in fashion, the designer revealed last Wednesday get out of it? What’s in it for me?’” he said. — which New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg Before relocating to New York in his 20s, the de- Q Last year, the Worldwide Orphans Foundation hon- deemed “Elie Tahari Day” — two chari- signer spent his early years in an Israeli ored Tahari at its annual gala for overcoming hard- table initiatives, including his plans to orphanage. Once he got rolling profession- ship in his early life and going on to achieve success. donate proceeds from a dress designed ally, Tahari maintained his philanthropic Q In 2011, Tahari designed the limited-edition by “Project Runway All Stars” designer ways. “Whether you give money or advice, T-shirt that Jennifer Hudson modeled in Saks Fifth Anthony Ryan Auld and sold in Tahari that’s not enough. What we have to do is Avenue’s Key to the Cure initiative. His input helped stores to Save the Garment Center. bring attention to all the charities,” he said. to generate $593,000 sales of the shirt, which in turn In addition, Tahari created a capsule “I am starting with myself — with my fam- was donated to the EIF Women’s Cancer Research collection of updated signature looks that ily and my company.” Fund. The charity benefits more than 50 programs is being billed as “Elie Tahari Edition And in recent years Tahari repeatedly that seek new detection methods, better treatments 1974” and will be shown during his spring has done just that. As a guest judge on and potential cures for various women’s cancers. presentation today. The tube top, jump- “Project Runway All Stars,” the designer Q Also in 2011, Tahari teamed with actress Emmy suit, an updated power suit, tuxedo and welcomed contestants to his design studio Rossum to create the Emmy bag, a handbag that was signature leather pieces will be sold in and allowed them to use fabrics from his sold in four styles in Elie Tahari Collection stores, as Elie Tahari boutiques and wholesale archives. Their task was to create a dress well as Bloomingdale’s, Saks and Neiman Marcus. All partners worldwide in the spring. A por- inspired by the Elie Tahari collection, proceeds were directed to Safe Horizon, an organiza- tion of the proceeds from sales of this col- and the winning designs were sold in Elie tion that annually helps more than 250,000 children lection will be donated to charity. Tahari stores as well as through the compa- and adults who are impacted by crime and abuse. During an interview last month, ny’s Web site. The project raised more than Q In efforts to help emerging designers, Tahari started Tahari spoke at length about the need $32,000 in sales, with all proceeds benefit- a partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers for all people to help each other for the Emmy Rossum with the ing the Save the Garment Center initiative. of America in 2010 to promote select member jewelry greater good of society. Emmy Bag, 2011. Among his other endeavors and awards: designers by selling their wares in his East Hampton, “We need to help planet Earth and Q For three years from 2009 to 2012, the N.Y., store on a three-week rotation. Tahari partici- provide help to all of us,” he said. “The biggest way designer sponsored the Winter Antiques Show, which pated in the program for two consecutive years. we can do that is to change our consciousness. It’s supports the East Side House. That group serves Q In 2008, Tahari partnered with artist Kenny Scharf not about what you give, but the degree of conscious- 8,000 people in the South Bronx and in surround- to create a limited-edition collection that included a ness that you give to a situation.” ing communities to help them improve their lives Kenny Scharf surfboard. A portion of the proceeds Having studied at The Kabbalah Centre New through education. were donated to God’s Love We Deliver. Congratulations to Elie Tahari on 40 years of creativity, beauty and genius, and for making the world a more stylish place for all.

AUSTIN CENTURY CITY CHARLOTTE CHICAGO HOUSTON IRVING LOS ANGELES NEW YORK ORANGE COUNTY SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA SHANGHAI WASHINGTON, DC

LONDON: KATTEN MUCHIN ROSENMAN UK LLP CONGRATULATIONS TO ELIE TAHARI ON 40 INCREDIBLE YEARS

WISHING YOU CONTINUED PROSPERITY & SUCCESS FOR MANY YEARS TO COME

YOUR FRIENDS AT TRENDY FASHION MANUFACTURING COMPANY LIMITED

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