WWD $'9(57,6(0(17

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY $3.00

NEW YORK WEEK S/S14 MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM OFFICIAL MAKEUP SPONSOR FASHION WEEK S/S14 MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM NEXT UP A LOOK AT SOME OF THE The Countess: NAMES TO — AND THINGS TO DO — DURING Enough to LONDON FASHION WEEK. REINVENTION MODE Say Dior PAGES 22 AND 24 COACH UNVEILS A NEW LOGO AND NEW PACKAGING AS PART OF ITS REVAMP. PAGE 8 PAGE 21

NYC MAYORS RACE Candidates’ Plans WWD To Boost Fashion

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

WHAT WILL they do for me? That’s the question on the mind of the $55 billion String fashion industry as New Yorkers head to the polls for Tuesday’s mayoral primary to pick the candidates for the race to succeed Mayor Michael Bloomberg. During his three-term reign, Bloomberg has been a familiar face with the fashion crowd, cutting the Fever ribbon for , making cam- eos at red-carpet industry events and most notably Just days after joining Kering’s launching Fashion.NYC.2020 to sustain and further grow New York’s fashion industry. That 10-year plan luxury portfolio, Joseph Altuzarra has established a manufacturing incentive, as well as showed a breathtaking collection. Fashion Draft NYC and Design Entrepreneurs NYC, both of which are geared to cultivating the next gen- He played on draping, men’s wear eration of talent. and Japanese Boro for clothes While none of the 11 candidates —seven Democrat, that dripped with chic. Here, three Republican and one independent — have exactly canvassed the Garment Center hustling for votes, they artful strings dangle from his sexy would be remiss to not acknowledge its fiscal force. As foldover paired one of ’s leading industries, the fashion with a simple . sector employs 173,000 people, accounting for nearly 6 percent of the city’s workforce. It also generates nearly For more from $10 billion in annual wages with tax revenues of $2 bil- the New York SPRING 2014 lion. On of that, more than 500,000 visitors come collections, see SEE PAGE 28 pages 12 to 21. NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Neiman’s IPO Now Less Likely Than Sale

By VICKI M. YOUNG

TPG AND WARBURG PINCUS’ talks to sell Neiman Marcus Group to a financial consortium are said to be heating up, making an initial public offering of the luxury retailer less likely. Sources said over the weekend that sale talks are in the later stages, and that the situation is fluid. That means that negotiations could still break up, or get wrapped up fairly quickly provided certain matters still at issue become resolved sooner than expected. The transaction, if an agreement is reached, is be- lieved to be for more than $6 billion. The two private equity firms were said to be seeking more than $7.1 billion in April when word first surfaced that they were pursuing a dual track to explore options for the specialty retailer. The dual track, a sale of the company or an IPO, is the typical strategy these days for financial sponsors looking to exit their investment. TPG and Warburg Pincus bought Neiman’s in 2005 for $5.1 billion in a cash-and-debt deal. Leonard Green & Partners subsequently acquired a stake in the company. Spokesmen for TPG and Warburg Pincus de- clined comment. The Wall Street Journal on Sunday reported that the two financial buyers in discussions to acquire Neiman’s are Ares Management and the Canada Pension Plan Investment Board. Ares Management has experience investing in the fashion industry. It is a one-time owner of PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 21

6 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 WWD.COM

WWD CEO Summit Features ‘Transformers’ THE BRIEFING BOX and chief commercial officer of There will also be a panel of By DAVID MOIN Coach, who steps into the ceo role experts on global labor prac- IN TODAY’S WWD in January. tices discussing the Bangladesh IN AN INDUSTRY filled with Another thought leader from tragedies and work conditions turbulence, rapid change and social media who will be spot- worldwide, including outspoken constant challenges, business lighted is Emily White, director Congressman George Miller (D., Lily Kwong in Altuzarra leaders and creative talents of operations at , which Calif.); Rick Helfenbein, presi- with Chelsea Leyland come and go as quickly as reality has become the darling of the vi- dent, Luen Thai USA; Charles at the Prabal Gurung shows. Yet for the upcoming 17th sually oriented fashion world. Kernaghan, executive director, after party. For more, annual WWD CEO Summit, some From outside the industry, Institute for Global Labour and see WWD.com. of fashion and retailing’s most New England Patriots owner Human Rights, and Richard accomplished — and promising Robert Kraft will discuss leader- M. Locke, Howard Swearer — executives will meet for two ship and strategic issues and how Director at the Thomas J. Watson days of presentations, conversa- he changed the culture of profes- Jr. Institute for International tions and panel discussions. sional sports in New England by Studies and professor of politi- Themed “The Transformers,” the summit will be held Oct. 28 and 29 at The Pierre in Manhattan. A group of 300 chief executive officers, presidents and company principals will ex-

change ideas, share best prac- JENNA GREENE PHOTO BY tices, forecast the future and net- work with their peers. Among the headliners are two media powerhouses: Anna A rundown of what the candidates for New York City mayor Wintour, artistic director of Condé had to say about what they would do to stimulate the city’s Nast and editor in chief of Vogue, fashion and retail industries. Page 1 and Leslie Moonves, president and ceo of CBS Corp. In a conver- Neiman Marcus is said to be close to finalizing a deal on the sation, Wintour and Moonves will sale of the company, believed to be for over $6 billion. Page 1 explore the way the media world is changing, for good or ill, as the Coach has begun its transformation into a lifestyle player consumer has more information, with its new logo, packaging, store concept, ad campaign more sensation and more choice and collections. Page 8 than ever before. Others tackling the hot is- Sophia Webster sues of the moment — driving has collaborated with J. Crew on a digital sales, differentiating from Themed “The capsule collection that will make its debut Tuesday. Page 8 the pack, and the social media obsession — include Terry J. Macy’s will significantly expand its activewear offerings for Lundgren, chairman, president Transformers,” women over the next year. Page 10 and ceo of Macy’s Inc. Lundgren has transformed what was once the summit Topshop is moving its fashion show space in London to a a lumbering retail dinosaur into new specially created space in Regents Park. Page 10 an industry giant that continues to grab market share. will be held Allison Williams took in Prabal Gurung’s runway show Designers being spotlighted Saturday afternoon at Moynihan Station. Page 20 include Michael Kors, princi- Oct. 28-29 at pal designer and cochairman of Countess Louise J. Esterhazy looks back at time she Michael Kors Holdings Ltd., one The Pierre in spent with . Page 21 of the most successful initial pub- lic offerings in fashion history, A preview of London Fashion Week, with designers to and Alexander Wang, creative Manhattan. watch and the latest hot spots. Pages 22 and 24 director for Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, who will discuss how The DFS Group has a new brand identity for its downtown he manages to simultaneously locations — T Galleria by DFS. Page 26 tackle two high-profile labels with different DNAs. Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd Among the noteworthy fashion week parties, V magazine will discuss one of the industry’s scored Lady Gaga at its fete at Le Poisson Rouge. Page 30 most dramatic and high-stakes stories of the past two years — The new book “The Firm,” out Tuesday, recalls when J.C. Penney Co. Inc., where, as McKinsey & Co., the efficiency consultancy, was the most ceo, he is charged with turning fashionable name in media. Page 31 around the beleaguered retailer. Kay Krill, president and ceo of Ann Inc., will make her first ON WWD.COM summit appearance, as her com- pany rides strong results at both EYE: The Jonas Brothers, Ciara, Lily Kwong and Chelsea its Ann Taylor and Loft divisions, Leyland made their way to Prabal Gurung’s post-show party while numerous other specialty at Bar Nana in the Meatpacking District on Saturday. chains lag in an otherwise diffi- For more, see WWD.com. cult retail season. Also from the retail world: Nick Robertson, ceo of Asos, TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS the digital firm focused on Clockwise from top left: Michael Kors, Anna Wintour, Terry J. Lundgren, [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Millennials that launched in the Alexander Wang and Leslie Moonves. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. U.K., expanded to 240 countries VOLUME 206, NO. 51. MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two and is headed to China this fall, delivering 10 conference titles cal science at Brown University. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance and Sophia Amoruso, founder and three league championships Locke is also the author of Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, and ceo of Nasty Gal, one of the in the past 17 years. In addition “The Promise and Limits of Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. 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THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR artisanal and Italian craftsman- And What You Can Learn From fairchildfashion.com, or call DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A ship, and Victor Luis, president Their Mistakes.” 212-630-4212. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. ©2013 Maybelline LLC. 8 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 A head-to-toe WWD.COM look from Coach’s capsule Coach Begins Lifestyle Transformation collection. attracting a more aspirational consumer, Previously, customers would receive By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD willing to spend upward of $1,200 a bag, either a red shopping bag or a dark brown without abandoning its core midlevel bag from its men’s store. Now the bags are NEW YORK — Coach Inc.’s transforma- customer, who typically shells out less a rich, tan textured shopper with the new tion is beginning to take shape. than $300 a bag. logo in coppery, brass lettering. Following a year in which it is re- “A lot of brands have undertaken Stahl explained that as the brand vamping its product, store concept and much smaller-scale transformations,” strives to be seen as more fashion-driv- advertising strategies — all the while un- he said, of the more than $5 billion busi- en, it decided to lose the “1941” and stick dergoing major changes in top manage- ness. “Given the size of our business and with “New York.” ment — Coach is unveiling the first itera- the scale and complexity of our business, “As we become increasingly global, tion of its evolution. this is truly a multiyear journey. It’s a as well as refer to our heritage and fash- In an exclusive interview with WWD, lot of fun. We’re really enjoying seeing it ion, we wanted to get more of a minimal president and chief commercial officer evolve. For us this is the next big leap.” feel,” she said. “New York is a more im- Victor Luis, who will take over the reins In plain terms, that evolution begins portant callout than 1941.” from Lew Frankfort as chief executive with product. In addition to bags that Packaging will roll out in tandem with officer in January, whisked through one weave in new treatments, exotic skins the brand’s new advertising campaign, of Coach’s many showrooms at its head- and leathers such as boar, the brand has featuring Kloss and Wen for women, and quarters here to unveil a year’s worth of launched The Borough bag, a sleek sil- Will Chalker for men. Dressed in head- new product, as well as an updated store houette that comes in two shapes, east- to-toe Coach fall looks, the three models look, logo, packaging and campaign fea- west or north-south. The classic, clean were shot by Craig McDean and styled by turing and . look of the bag is punctuated by the di- Karl Templer in New York during an un- “We looked at every little tweak,” minished new logo, which reads “Coach timely summer heat wave. Luis said as he went through several New York” in small metallic letters. All of the models will be featured core and capsule collections, beginning That logo will appear on much of on Coach’s Web site and will kick off a with holiday and ending with spring. Coach’s product, which includes calf-hair video campaign called “Coach New York New advertising, product and store looks fold-over clutches, studded duffel sacs and Stories” and talk about their links to will begin filtering in beginning Nov. 1, striped and color-blocked bowler bags. the city. It goes live on Sept. 18 with the the incoming ceo said, explaining that Pointy heels with shiny gold-toned models’ stories. Wen will tell her story in the “elevated” or more expensive - sule collections are at the center of the signed, with the first two stores, Coach’s “transformation.” Those collections 79 Fifth Avenue flagship in New York and will be rolled out to 27 cities around its South Coast Plaza store in California, the world, including New York, San having new light fixtures, tables, floors, Francisco, London, Madrid, Hong Kong, rtw racks and salons. The brand will Beijing, Shanghai and Tokyo. sprinkle in leather accents as a nod to its Earlier this year, Coach mapped heritage and will bring in video screens out plans to flow in capsule collections that will lean against the wall, giving throughout the year that will incorporate each space a gallery feel. the brand’s ready-to-wear, bags, , “These first stores are going to be jewelry, eyewear and other accessories, laboratories for us where we test some of in order to become a lifestyle player in these new ideas,” Luis said. “We are very the minds of its consumers. Additionally, much working on defining the Coach en- Coach decided to focus on the look and vironment for this woman, as she evolves feel of its stores and marketing to reflect with the campaign.” a 360-degree dual-gender brand. While South Coast Plaza and Fifth Frankfort and executive creative di- Avenue will be completed by Dec. 1, the rector Reed Krakoff had put this strategy company won’t be ready with its next into motion in January. Now Frankfort, slate of renovations until June. This will who will stay on as executive chairman, include eight domestic doors and two will cede his ceo title, and Krakoff has Coach’s new packaging and logo. international doors, one in Chengdu, left the company to run his namesake China, the other in Shinjuku, Japan. label full time. Although Coach hired ex- On the wholesale side, by Nov. 1, Loewe creative director Stuart Vevers Coach said it would have renovated to succeed Krakoff, nothing Luis show- hardware, plaid , textured, Mandarin and English, Stahl said, adding more than 85 of its “key” locations in cased last week reflected Vevers’ influ- woven and knee-length A-line that the video campaign will be ongoing Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, Lord & Taylor ence. According to Coach, Vevers, who have been thrown into the mix, as and feature two new “tastemakers” every and Dillards. By the end of fiscal year just started last Monday, will produce his have a host of accessories, , out- month beginning in November. 2014, it will have updated roughly 200 to first collection next fall. Regardless, the erwear and rtw looks. That will be backstopped by the print 300 shops-in-shop nationwide. brand said any changes made now were But back to that logo. Unlike the pre- ads, which will appear in publications rang- But there’s still much work to be done, just beginning steps, which should be vious logo, which includes a horse and ing from , Wall Street as Coach has a distribution of more than viewed more as a “testing phase.” carriage and the words “Coach est. 1941” Journal and New York Post to Vogue, Vanity 950 directly operated locations world- Luis, who likened Coach to a very large enclosed in a rectangle with “New York” Fair, Esquire and Bon Appétit. wide and 1,200 wholesale doors. ship, added that time is of the essence, as underneath, the new one has dropped “It’s an integrated campaign that we “We are at the beginning stages of this competition in the contemporary space the date and the rectangle. The font has really feel starts to message the Coach transformation. There will be a point, of from brands such as Michael Kors and also changed and the lettering is filled in girl, who she is, you know, very present course, where all of these three touch Tory Burch is hitting a fever pitch. and appears larger. emotionally, accessible, upbeat,” Stahl points come into a harmony in transfor- “The category is certainly more vi- “We let Coach free. I think the pro- said, referencing the women’s campaign mation,” Luis said. “We are not going to brant and certainly more interesting than portions are very sleek,” said executive and the choice particularly of Kloss. transform over a thousand stores over- ever, actually,” Luis said. “We have a lot vice president of marketing and strategy “She’s a Coach girl at heart. She came in night. It’s a multiyear journey to get of friends but they don’t always invite us Stephanie Stahl, as she held the brand’s here very jazzed.” there. We are managing that and under- to dinner.” new shopping bag replete with logo. “When The last bit of Coach’s transformation standing that being a global brand with Luis’ primary concern as ceo is bring- we saw this, it felt spot-on. It felt very much impacts its wholesale and retail stores. complex distribution, it’s not like [turn- ing Coach to its next level of growth by us, today, tomorrow and yesterday.” Retail doors will be completely rede- ing on] a light switch.” J. Crew Teams With Sophia Webster leather; star, floral and polka Webster, whose fall presenta- By SAMANTHA CONTI dot prints; neon shades and a tion — set in an enchanted for- Sketches from palette of blues have been em- est — was a highlight of London the collaboration. SOPHIA WEBSTER, the British bellished with Webster’s trade- Fashion Week in February, said designer whose bright, playful mark tassels, embroidered de- she did not dial down her whim- footwear sits just on the right tails and crystals. sical style for the new collection. side of kitsch, has set her first Some 30 shoes from the col- “They definitely wanted my major collaboration: a capsule laboration will be on show, language to be part of it,” she collection for J. Crew that will and the Sophia Webster for J. said. “The collection is really debut at the brand’s presentation Crew Collection will launch fun and feminine, very me, but during New York Fashion Week at select J. Crew stores and still a hybrid of the two brands,” on Tuesday, WWD has learned. jcrew.com in 2014. said Webster, adding that it The collection includes Jenna Lyons, the retailer’s evolved “quite organically” after Webster’s most popular sil- president and executive cre- she saw J. Crew’s colors and fab- well,” Webster said. heels and Webster’s signature houettes, which have been ative director, said Webster’s rics from the spring season. The capsule collection con- Aztec . retooled to highlight the col- shoes “are like miniature sets — “The brand has a real sense sists of 12 styles in a range of A J. Crew spokeswoman said ors and patterns of J. Crew’s a beautiful world for your feet of fun and color that I love, colors and patterns. There the company was still nailing spring women’s collection. to spend the day in. Each shoe and I think that my designs are stilettos with dainty ankle down prices and confirming the Bright taffeta fabrics; patent tells a unique story.” complement their clothes straps, pumps with contrasting length of the collaboration.

10 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 WWD.COM Macy’s Pushes Activewear for Millennials

By JEAN E. PALMIERI A rendering of Macy’s enhanced activewear offer.

MACY’S MILLENNIAL push is entering a more active phase. In its quest to attract a free-spending consumer between the ages of 13 and 30, the retailer will significantly expand its activewear offerings for women over the next year. Nike, The North Face, Under

Armour, Performance and its private label Ideology — brands cur- rently carried at Macy’s in a smaller way — will be rolled out to more stores beginning this month. In addition, Helly Hansen, an upscale outdoor brand, will be added in select locations. The activewear initiative follows on the heels of the company’s deal with Finish Line last fall to open branded athletic footwear shops in more than 450 stores in the U.S. Last month, Macy’s teamed with Lids to open and operate Macy’s for over·· five years, but “where chandise in about 240 stores. The North this as the next step in its Millennial licensed team merchandise shops at we had white space was for the female Face activewear, fleece, rainwear, down strategy, Reardon said the merchandise its stores nationwide under the name customer.” She stressed that the mer- and tri-climate for men, women, will appeal to older customers seeking Locker Room by Lids. Twenty-five pilot chandise the customer is asking for is boys, girls and infants will be available “function as well as fashion.” She said shops are opening this fall with an ad- appropriate to wear at the gym, go shop- at 130 stores. Under Armour, known for Macy’s is also working on a catchy name ditional 175 coming on board for spring. ping or have lunch. “She didn’t want as its compression gear and moisture-wick- for the department, but is keeping that “As we continue challenging our- much performancewear to climb Mount ing fabric, will be offered for men in 70 under wraps. selves to better serve the evolving needs Everest,” she said. “So we had to find stores and in 50 locations for women’s Over the past year, Macy’s has intro- of Macy’s current and future customers, brands with the functionality to satisfy and boys’. The competitively priced CK duced or expanded more than two dozen it became clear that active apparel pre- the woman who wants to work out but Performance brand will be offered for brands focused on the Millennial custom- sented an opportunity for growth,” said also has a fashion sensibility.” women only in 385 stores. er, an age group with estimated annual Jeff Gennette, chief merchandising offi- Macy’s own Ideology women’s private spending power of $65 billion for prod- cer of Macy’s Inc. “Our customer insights brand, which launched in spring 2012 uct at Macy’s price level. The initiative show that our Millennial customers have and offers pieces for yoga, Pilates and represents an effort to move beyond the significant crossover in shopping active It became clear the gym, is currently available in only 160 76 million Baby Boomers to attract their where we have the assortment, so we doors. But it will become the anchor of 70 million children and grandchildren. believe that satisfying his and her total that active apparel the department with a presence in over Among the brands that have been lifestyle must involve more fashion and 400 doors later this year. “We’re expand- added or emphasized over the past year function in our active offerings. We are ing it in a big way,” she said. are Marilyn Monroe, Made Fashion working with the best brands in the cate- presented an New addition Helly Hansen will be of- Week, Keds, Teen Vogue, Blossom & gory to bring our customers exciting mer- fered in 30 stores for men and 25 stores Clover, Truth or Dare, G-Star Raw, chandise that will serve their athletic in- opportunity for for women. Ambiguous, Ezekiel , Comune, terests in all endeavors — from the yoga Other activewear product carried Rvca, Neff, Rachel Rachel Roy, else, studio to the weight room, to hiking and growth. at Macy’s includes Adidas, Champion, kensie, DV by Dolce Vita, Material rock climbing.” Columbia, Puma, Spyder and Marmot. Girl, American Rag, Inglot Cosmetics, The merchandise will be available at — JEFF GENNETTE, The men’s component, which Reardon Smashbox Cosmetics, Kipling, Steve both Macy’s brick-and-mortar stores and said is already big and impactful, will be Madden and Stüssy. online. Shops will be added in larger MACY’S INC. further intensified under this initiative. “We’ve definitely been talking about stores but the area will be branded in “But women’s is where you’ll see the big- the Millennial strategy for about a year every store. Kiosks will be incorporated gest difference.” but we really saw the fruits of our labor into stores as well to allow customers to Nike, for example, had only been of- The company will use data gleaned in March,” Reardon said. That was when access product from any store, even if the fered for women in around 180 stores, from its My Macy’s localization strat- Macy’s completed the addition of 23 new merchandise is not available in that par- but will be getting a much “bigger foot- egy to determine where to add the mer- brands to its mix. ticular location. print. And added to that will be friends chandise. Helly Hansen will be added Among the top performers so far have been “We’re really expanding the footprint such as Under Armour, CK Performance to stores with higher average unit retail the Marilyn Monroe and Keds collections. of active within the women’s area,” said and Idealogy with Helly·· Hansen sprin- sales and where “the customer is likely “We’ve been successful, but still have Martine Reardon, chief marketing officer. kled in. It will all be sitting in one zone to want that look,” she explained. a long runway in front of us,” she said. Without providing specific numbers, she that will show how committed we are to The big rollout is expected to be “It’s definitely a three-year strategy with said the space devoted to the category is this area.” completed by the end of the fall season so many different brands we want to add being doubled. Specifically, Nike men’s, boys and girls and Macy’s will most likely make some and learning how to flow things different. Reardon noted that the men’s ac- product will be available in about 650 tweaks in the spring as well, she said. This is not even the first inning for us, but tivewear category has been strong for stores, with women’s and infants mer- Although the retailer is looking at we’re really pleased with how it’s doing.”

Topshop to Unveil New Show Space Shukla, Tate Join Theory

By JULIA NEEL A rendering of the new show space. By MARC KARIMZADEH

LONDON — Topshop is upping NEW YORK — Theory has made two strategic hires: sticks and moving its fashion show Siddhartha Shukla is joining as chief marketing officer, space from the cavernous belly of effective Sept. 16, and Chris Tate will start as president, the Tanks at the Tate Modern to a retail and e-commerce, on Sept. 23. Both are newly cre- new specially created space near ated roles, and report to Andrew Rosen, global chief Regents College in Regents Park. executive officer of Theory and Helmut Lang. The space, which centers around Shukla joins from Reed Krakoff, where, most re- the idea of bringing the outside inside, cently, he was vice president of marketing and com- has been designed by Swedish archi- munications. Prior to that, he held senior roles at tect Pernilla Ohrstedt, inspired by Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. He will oversee global the park itself. The venue will launch branding and communications for both Theory and with the Topshop Unique event during Helmut Lang. London Fashion Week, a runway show Tate joins from James Perse, where he served that will have grass growing through as president for the past three years. Previously, he felt to save the models’ heels from the It has capacity for 690 seated with “actual, real butterflies.” worked at Giorgio and St. John Knits. He will perils of actual turf. The space also guests, with room for 120 standing Ohrstedt said her design was in- now manage direct retail channels for the Theory and features a Douglas fir installation. attendees — an overall increase of spired by “minimal ways of creating Helmut Lang brands in North America and Europe. Following the Topshop show, de- 200 heads from last season. paths through nature and parks, be The hires come at a time of international expan- signers including Marios Schwab, A secret garden, to be used for it trampled desire lines in Regents sion for both brands. “I believe their level of expe- Meadham Kirchhoff and Lucas presentations, was described by one Park or the simplicity of construc- rience will be an excellent complement to our exist- Nascimento will use the space to Topshop spokesman as “looking like tions that take you across boggy ing organization and will allow us to accelerate our present their collections. ‘Alice in Wonderland’ exploded” marshes in northern Sweden.” global initiatives,” Rosen said. www.pamellaroland.com 12 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 New York Alexander Wang Altuzarra Collections SOME POWERHOUSE NAMES HIT THE RUNWAYS OVER A WEEKEND PACKED WITH SHOWS. Altuzarra: To say that Joseph Campbell, who closed the show. Altuzarra had a good week Although the collection was would be an understatement. called Oasis, the clothes exuded On Thursday, the designer upbeat energy. Von Furstenberg joined Kering’s luxury honed in on her DNA with portfolio, a move that should sharp focus, delivering colorful set him up to international ensembles and confident prints, exposure and further grow an evocative African-inspired his label. On Saturday night, lion landscape among them. the designer built on the big She used the motif on a chic news with a spring collection skirt teamed with a deep-blue that could best be described as as well as a T-shirt simply beautiful. that she also wore for her A study in tony chic, runway bow. Altuzarra took elements of There were plenty of other past collections — exquisite safari references, but the draping, ethnic touches and lineup wasn’t just about exotic plays on men’s wear — and adventures. The solid looks pulled them together with provided ample chic, especially confidence and panache. the linear white dress with Boro, the Japanese red rope halters and the fresh technique used by fishermen combination of black lace and farmers to patch together with denim for a new version rags and everyday garments, of the dress worn over a provided the starting point. petticoat for volume and charm. Backstage before the show, Altuzarra explained that the Alexander Wang: Alexander Wang theme evolved into “this idea of has never been shy about his effortless ease of a shirt and a love for the Nineties; its gritty skirt, bits of patchworking, soft black-and-white minimalism, layering and handwork that’s street attitude, , done in a humble way.” and definitely its music scene He had no reason to have been a major influence on be humble. Altuzarra his aesthetic, and were again deconstructed men’s with for spring. a fresh eye, tucking some into It was written all over it, draped, elongated skirts. The quite literally. We’re talking effect was casual with a studied about logomania. “I grew up in imperfection. The same could the Nineties when everything be said of the loose strings was about blatant advertising,” that dangled from many of the said Wang during a preview. “So skirts. Rather than disheveled, I said, ‘How do we take that and the detail looked interesting do it in our way?’” By using his and added to the collection’s own name, for starters. Parisian sophistication and He worked it into laser- sensuality. Surface elements cut leather jumpers and were also executed with slipdresses cut out of skinny graceful control: An elegant leather strips sewn together trompe l’oeil navy dress that vertically. It blared from the looked like a knit top layered thick elastic waistbands of over a long skirt had just the cutout , and blended right amount of embroidery and subtly into tonal houndstooth- delicate jewel adornment. inspired patterns on crisp shirts. The collection will easily Handled with equal parts irony translate into chic adult and sophistication (the latter wardrobes. It was mature in most evident in delicate white the most positive sense of the lasered lace tops), Wang pulled word, right down to the last few the logo thing off, backing up the exits of terrific draped-and- audacity with serious design. tied dresses in a shimmering There was precision, metal silk thread. They were technique and fabric glamorous, but in a quieter, less development to everything, formal way, and like the rest none of which he took too of the clothes, demonstrated seriously, a point crucial to Altuzarra’s confidence and his cause. knowledge of desire in fashion. “I wanted to do something fun,” said Wang. “Something Diane von Furstenberg: DVF’s with wit, with humor.” Adding show notes described her pink to his typically stark spring collection as “a mix of palette was one great way quiet calm and joie de vivre.” of injecting his lineup with Certainly she wasn’t talking a playful sexiness. There about the nightmare getting into were pink leather bags, shiny the travesty that the Lincoln pink cartoon Mary Janes and Center venue has become. excellent riffs on classic pink Luckily, von Furstenberg’s show (and baby blue) men’s shirting, itself fared better with terrific cut into pleated and music (Robin Thicke’s “Blurred spare tops that were plain in Lines” and Daft Punk’s “Get front and open in the back with Lucky”), a celebrity-heavy a tease of flesh. There was also front row with Andy Cohen and a big homage to Nineties hip- Janice Dickinson shimmying hop style in the denim-inspired to the tunes, and the most star- jackets and pants that bore the studded model lineup so far bells and whistles of designer this season, including Jourdan finishings, as well as the white Dunn, , Karlie contrast stitching that harkened Kloss, and Naomi back to the of that time. WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 13 WWD.COM

Just before the show Diane von Furstenberg Prabal started, a few Aaliyah songs Gurung played on the soundtrack. A quick Google Image search of the doomed R&B star produces photos from a Tommy Hilfiger ad in which she’s wearing a bandeau top, and jeans belted low on her hips to show the men’s boxer she has on underneath — every item emblazoned with Tommy logos. Wang incorporated all of these elements into his look in an updated, authentic way and made it fun. He can save the more serious stuff for Balenciaga.

Prabal Gurung: “If you see a woman in a beautiful chiffon dress and she turns around and gives you a hint of harness, that’s my woman,” said Prabal Gurung during a preview. He did more than just imagine that customer for spring; he created her in a wonderful synergy of bold color, technical experimentation and ambition, with a baseline of classic Fifties elegance. The result was a very modern take on womanly traditions, or in Gurung’s words, “femininity with a bite.” His mood board was filled with images from Bert Stern’s “Last Sitting” with Marilyn Monroe, including the soft-focus nudes of her holding strategically placed roses and a Fifties- era image of three women wearing blue, red and yellow . Not on the wall, but perhaps in the air, was a whiff of Raf Simons’ recent work at Dior. Still, Gurung’s colors, the roses and the Marilyn-esque glamour were all imaginatively retooled throughout the collection, which opened with the models lined up behind clear plastic walls. There was also a clinical element to the show, which Gurung used to subvert the retro sophistication. White double-bonded cotton poplin dresses with fold-over details backed in pastels brought to mind nurse , and two takes on the — one in hand-painted clear plastic, another in glittered, laminated tulle — kind of looked like chic lab coats. Day clothes were a collision of athletic details and tony classics, such as a bonded technical satin bomber and slim skirt with rose embroidery. If not always perfect, Gurung’s fabric work, which included spongy, technical tweed and beautiful rose-printed leathers, was impressive and worth appreciating for the fact that it showed a designer willing to go out on a limb. The evening dresses were the real highlight, with Gurung turning down the sporty effects to let the glamour glow. True to his word, he layered harnesses under the dresses and , many done in thick, colorful FOR MORE REVIEWS satin wrapped around AND IMAGES, SEE the body or corseted and spliced with mesh on tea- WWD.com/ length dresses. A black silk runway. duchesse dress, cut off the shoulder and embroidered with big crystal rosettes, PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY was just about perfect. 14 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013

Derek Lam Victoria Beckham Thakoon Kenneth Cole

SPRING 2014 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Derek Lam: It was an impressive textured white top and skirt just below the knee offered the idea of something more blue patent skirt, which collection from Derek Lam, with a fringed waistline, and a chic approach to summer classic,” he said. “I’ve been brought some edge to an whose show at the Sean Kelly a navy short-sleeve dress dressing. So did the pretty tops whittling things down in the otherwise highly wearable, Gallery was the definition of embroidered with chunky with flouncy hems. These, too, past few seasons.” He had ultrafeminine mix. Also well-edited — the pace, the sequins from the bustline were worn over long , considered what makes a noteworthy were the number of exits and the looks down, a confident and modern but could stand on their own great wardrobe — “a cashmere accessories: wallets with all carefully considered with option for evening. as minidresses. Other more tank, something red, denim, extra-long pearl handles nothing superfluous. The structured, form-fitting minis ” — addressing all of worn like necklaces and clothes, inspired by Gauguin Victoria Beckham: Minutes before were softened with a swath a those elements in a lineup that thigh-high stretch lace . and Grès, offered special her spring show, Victoria white pleats that peeked out amounted to so much more details, innovative fabrics, Beckham was the picture of from underneath. than closet essentials. Kenneth Cole: “I’m fascinated great colors and a touch of the calm backstage. Her relaxed Geometry came via Working very much within by Eighties Harlem chic,” chicly artisanal in modern, demeanor extended to her architectural triangles that the realm of real, Panichgul Kenneth Cole said during his classically based silhouettes. charming collection, steeped in were placed in bold ways elevated classics with special, spring presentation. “I love “I love a woman who an easy attitude and what she on several pieces, including inventive details. Two white the convergence of all these expresses her style quietly, yet called a “boyish-girlish — as a fuchsia top shown with a slipdresses opened the show; cultures and how it feels now with a definitive expression,” opposed to mannish” sense of short flared skirt. If the look the first, done in silk duchesse that they’re all starting to said Lam. gender play. had a strictness, it was played with a golden sheen and blend together.” Well put. He opened with a Beckham transformed with a girly card. The sense of discreet crystal embroidery Cole executed his melting- new idea of gingham, graphic Cafe Rouge, near gritty Penn lightness and fluidity charmed. around the bust; the second, pot motif with a range of and grown up in large-scale Station, into a gleaming white “It’s a completely different a delicate cotton knit with stylistic references — tropical checks on a range of belted box, the perfect backdrop for proportion and exactly what I’d beautiful lace details. Crystal prints, animal motifs, athletic, tops and . Then the crisp lineup. “I focused a want to wear now,” Beckham chains recurred throughout urban-tough, to state a few. For there were new takes on crisp lot on shape, both literally and said. “It feels like me.” and had a transformative touch women, these were worked white shirtdresses, refined conceptually,” she said. She at the back of a tailored black into moto and bomber jackets, denim and a terrific woven made that point effectively Thakoon: Attempting to cloque and around the track pants and fit-and-flare plaid lace series, shown on with the first few black-and- condense his spring collection neckline of a white cotton shirt. skirts. A T-shirt with ocelot- skirts and ombré dresses white looks — a precise coat into a sound bite preshow, There were a few pattern sleeves was shown that faded yellow into white. shown over a languid white Thakoon Panichgul went curveballs, such as a with a kicky orange skirt — a Other standouts included a top with boyish shorts cut for the undersell: “I liked red patent top and key example of how a look WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 15 WWD.COM

Monique Lhuillier Cynthia Rowley DKNY Lacoste

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway. ROWLEY PHOTO BY WILLIAM EADON; ALL OTHERS BY GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI WILLIAM EADON; ALL OTHERS BY ROWLEY PHOTO BY

can be street-smart without matching midi skirt. Next came demonstrated with a bevy denim dressed collection. Softening his more forsaking commercial polish. looks in lace; highlights here of delightful ruffled dresses up with a chic pinstripe experimental tendencies, A dose of 125th Street were the vibrant combos such as in ocean greens and sunset ; the white T-shirt and artistic director Felipe swagger was also delivered in the long-sleeve shirt in a deep oranges, along with neoprene trenchcoat skirt layered over a Oliveira Baptista offered a the men’s looks that married orange with detachable jeweled full skirts and that black tulle one, and the slinky minimalist take on the brand’s classic office attire — a staple collar paired with a below-the- came embroidered with thick gowns that the designer saved sportif heritage with plays on of Cole’s business — with knee skirt in a rich red. yarn and paired with T-shirts for the show’s end. transparency and bold contrasts. streetwear pieces, i.e., one Most chic was Lhuillier’s printed with floral leis — The few men’s looks were For women, said tennis outfit that combined a shirt, eveningwear, especially the aloha, spring. more subdued, as in with lines were referenced in coats, tie and salmon-hued bandeau-and-ball skirt combos contrast-color collars, and dresses and polo shirts with with boxy leather shorts and in silk gazar. DKNY: It’s DKNY’s 25th sporty jackets with slim-fit white contrast edging. Baptista high-top . Mesh birthday, and Donna Karan cropped just above incorporated athletic touches T-shirts and leather vests with Cynthia Rowley: As she walked celebrated it with a dose of the ankle. elsewhere, such as the built- zipper details contributed to through her presentation, urban energy. The collection The great soundtrack — a in sports jacket on a chic long the youthful edge, leavened Cynthia Rowley adjusted picked up on many ideas that remix that included Run DMC, dress. Transparency came by more straightforward the lightly padded hem of a have marked the brand for the Salt-N-Pepa and the Beastie mostly in white-on-white looks, sportswear from Cole’s Hawaiian print dress, and then past quarter-century, but was Boys — added to the show’s i.e., a sheer jacket worn with a contemporary wheelhouse. pointed out the embroidered updated with contemporary zest. As for the special birthday tank minidress. sweat worn by several street savvy. Themes included guest, Rita Ora vamped it up Novel fabric applications Monique Lhuillier: “This spring is of the models, saying they black-and-white, cool denim in the finale wearing a logo were the most compelling about sheer elegance; I wanted reminded her of the fictional and paisleys, active influences, T-shirt and kicky skirt with aspect of the men’s wear, with it to feel light and stripped tennis prodigy Richie parachute designs, Easter egg leggings — an outfit that looked suits and constructed down,” said Monique Lhuillier Tenenbaum. colors and, this being DKNY, as relevant today as it would from sporty — very on- at a preview of her collection. “It’s so important as a bold logos. have 25 years ago. brand — and airy trenchcoats The first group out — organza designer today to stay true Although the lineup went in a gossamer, rubberized looks in the lightest of pastels to yourself, to create your in many directions, Karan Lacoste: The straight white line material. Plays on volume and with metallic threading — own signature,” Rowley managed to add a sense of is an essential component in architectural seaming added was beautiful, the theme best said. Her signature is a little coherency via its youthful the design of a tennis court, interest to tops in Baptista’s demonstrated with a bandeau bit pretty and a little bit vibe. There were plenty of and it became the starting otherwise restrained, almost top, and sporty — a look she aptly great pieces, like the short point for Lacoste’s crisp spring monastic approach. 16 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013

Suno Billy Reid Rebecca Taylor Billy Reid Robert Geller Tibi

SPRING 2014 NEW YORK FOR MORE REVIEWS COLLECTIONS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Suno: African maximalism is how in beach pants,” said Reid, the spirit of Eighties Russia, a added a fresh twist on very dress — fitted top, short Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty who is now based in Alabama. time when punk rock and New wearable clothes. flared skirt — providing the described their latest Suno “I wanted to explore how that Wave influences were seeping Sticking with the nature dominant silhouette. collection as they set out to would feel in today’s world.” through an increasingly porous theme, Smilovic showed a fun Versions came in white “relook and reexamine how we Experimenting with fabrics Iron Curtain and animating the lineup of wooden accessories. tipped in black and vice versa. started,” Beatty said backstage. was central to the process, country’s youth — all the while Wedge shoes had blocky Some had curved cutout The duo took their girl on a so came in papery contrasting with the country’s platform heels, while safari- techniques or were layered with chic safari with touches of tribal cotton, shorts in tweeds and storied intellectual past. like looked as if they were white shirts with extra-long influences; the most obvious shirts adorned with a custom Muddy colors, slub cotton made from popsicle sticks. sleeves. Another strong pairing motif, a quirky zebra kanga used camouflage pattern based on tank tops, leather vests and was cropped shirts shown with for a halter minidress and vest. the camellia. Some materials plenty of layering helped tell Helmut Lang: Graphic skirts done in what looked like Other playful patterns included resembled lightweight, a romanticized version of that minimalism is a tenet that lasered lace. an abstract floral on culottes, patterned upholstery, and even story, while black hats in the Nicole and Michael Colovos Goldin managed to render a circle-chain pattern on a a rucksack was designed in a shape of bowls hugged models’ know well, much like the work the sport theme with a cool, and neon geometric handsome combo of leather heads, adding an element of of their muse this season, artist sexy hand without ever plaids on a boxy top. and sisal. Eastern Orthodox monasticism. Wade Guyton, whose canvases yielding to its preppy or While the designers are by Geller included many of his inspired the duo’s linear literal side. She upped the now known for their prints and Rebecca Taylor: After several signatures, such as drop-crotch brushstroke prints and clean sophistication level through strong colors, the standouts seasons going tough, Rebecca shorts, neoprene pieces and silhouettes. Done primarily in her prowess in technical knits, this season were their rich Taylor returned to her feminine gym wear. While the show black and white, the collection ranging from a soft waffled jacquards, Swarovski crystal tomboy aesthetic and the results didn’t break a lot of new ground had a decidedly Nineties feel sweater to densely woven yet embellishments and pleating, all were, in a word, delightful. for Geller, it maintained his with blazers cut sharply in lightweight gauges that gave of which added sophistication to Flirty dresses were admirable embrace of poetic contrast to the slouchy bottoms, the clothes great shape. the tribal motif. rendered in lace, while boxy and unconventional men’s while dresses were slit to there cuts came in perforated wear forms. for a dash of sex appeal. Jill Stuart: With an imaginary Billy Reid: In a confident respite leather and a technical This was a wearable, cool rock star’s girlfriend as her from his recent emphasis on cotton that she accented Tibi: Taking a metaphoric road lineup, punctuated with muse, Jill Stuart turned out a buttoned-up tailoring, Billy with laminated stripes. This trip in nature from Asia to the addition of handbags. Seventies-inspired collection Reid took a turn toward the nod to athleticism carried Arizona, Amy Smilovic took These included clutches and that was a cross between relaxed with looser silhouettes over into bomber jackets her Tibi girl on a “primal oversized satchels that paired bohemian and tough girl. There and a breezier attitude. Even and bonded mesh . adventure” this season. Playing nicely with the stingray slides were cool denim dresses, chic with the casual sensibility, a Taylor kept her prints to with volume and ease, she and bandage pumps. caftans, delicate lace tops and keen focus on intriguing texture a minimum, preferring to focused on boxy and cropped embroidered frocks, all with a and pattern gave a subtle patchwork fabrics for pattern, tops, full skirts and loose Louise Goldin: Tennis is a pretty, beachy vibe. elegance to looks like a linen but a blurry floral she called culottes. As for the great prints mini-trend this season in Then, for nights out, things chambray and a dinner “enchanting” was just that. she’s known for, spring’s motifs New York, making distinct got tough with tight black jacket paired with herringbone included a tropical leaf pattern appearances in no less than leather dresses and pants. surf pants. Robert Geller: There’s a bookish and a Baja design, both worked four collections, including While they looked cool, these “I remember when I moved quality to Robert Geller’s on easy dresses. that of Louise Goldin, who veered toward Hedi Slimane from the South to the West Coast aesthetic in his exploration For the girl stuck in the city, offered a sharp, minimalistic for Saint Laurent. Rounded in the late Eighties, how my of high-minded concepts there were cool shorts suits, take on lawn-sport style. shoulders, cropped tops, closet started to transform from through clothes. This season chunky beaded skirts and dip- Her spin on it was crisp and slipdresses and baby-doll this preppy element to bringing he imbued his collection with dyed denim shorts, all of which spare, with the classic tennis numbers were some of Stuart’s WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 17 WWD.COM

Helmut LangLouise Goldin Jill Stuart Hervé Léger by

Lorry Newhouse Ruffian Tome

new shapes that modernized the maxidress and coat, and a pencil Seventies spirit. skirt paired with a purple blouse.

Hervé Léger by Max Azria: The Ruffian: Brian Wolk and Claude bandage dress is synonymous with Morais based their collection sex appeal, but when that iconic on Françoise Sagan’s novel silhouette is the cornerstone of a “Bonjour Tristesse,” the dark collection, the question becomes, tale of a young French girl, what’s next? Max and Lubov Azria her father and his mistress. found their answer this season The designers put aside the by incorporating hard-edged sad story and focused on the elements with artful ones to youthful French part, infusing mostly good results. their lineup with classic French The show began with a flurry flourishes, such as tie-neck of zippers, up the front, around , variations on the trench, the bodice; they also edged shirtdresses with defined collars ruffles that were fashioned and buttons, and a variety of nice into peplums and godet skirts, floral prints, which combined for resulting in a nice contrast to a cute and quirky ingenue look. the feminine eyelet skirts that peeked out from underneath. Tome: Ryan Lobo and Ramon The duo kept their colors Martin generated plenty of subdued, which did no favors for buzz after their beautiful and the peekaboo crochet numbers feminine presentation for that veered toward hoochie, but Tome. They were inspired it did allow the beautiful beaded by Ana Mendieta, a Cuban- embellishments and knitting American artist who, as a techniques to really shine. pagan, immersed herself in the elements by creating art carved Lorry Newhouse: With flowers from the earth. This was the on her mind, Lorry Newhouse starting point for the designers’ turned her spring presentation techniques. For example, they into a cheerful garden party. shredded traditional tweed into The best looks were two strips and reconstructed it into floral-printed gowns: a flowy a beautiful jacket, and they laid sleeveless dress with a cowl- python skin over a tulle skirt. neck, and an organza long-sleeve Also in the mix was a delicate maxi that had the ease of a shirt lace dress, a plastic- and the glamour of a . coated coat and an intricate There was a graphic element, pleated dress with a capelike too, that came via a group of back. It’s no wonder they are vibrant green-and-blue checked part of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion

looks, including an off-shoulder Fund finalists. GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GIOVANNI JIMI CELESTE, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 18 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013

Yigal Azrouël Lela Rose Tracy Reese Billy Reid Victor Alfaro

SPRING 2014 NEW YORK COLLECTIONS

Yigal Azrouël: In a minimalist colorful tweeds onto linen himself, Alfaro designed along with technical fabrics that including a pretty floral and a palette of black, white and gray, jackets and dresses for day, for like-minded women can work for day or night. quirky balloon-dog motif (those Yigal Azrouël’s latest collection which were ladylike but with whose bodies can handle dogs were getting naughty was pure urbane style. His a cool twist. For evening, she lean silhouettes. Function Delpozo: A relative newcomer, on a couple of pieces). Key tailoring was precise on suits placed intricate embroideries was paramount to form in Madrid-based Delpozo has looks included a sweet shorts that could best be described as on a mosaic motif cocktail an impressively sleek way, brought a unique point of suit, cool outerwear and their structured slouch — some were number, a sexy linear strapless whether on the supple neoprene view to the New York circuit. signature sweatshirts. left unadorned and crisp, save dress and sweet sweater. sheaths or the printed knits that It’s worth paying attention to. The duo also developed for a subtle zipper detail, while reversed to a completely new Creative director Josep Font their own fabrics this season; others were cut and spliced Tracy Reese: Tracy Reese said pattern — two vastly different worked off Jean-Baptiste- most notable was the textured into a geometric patchwork of she was feeling “romantic, in one. Camille Corot’s “Gypsy woman organza that had an ombré textures that included cotton, energetic and optimistic” Alfaro’s stretch leather with tambourine” portrait, while effect of opaque to sheer, shown mesh and leather. when designing her collection, spinning and cycling pants, remaining loyal to Delpozo’s on easy gowns and chic tunics. Dresses veered toward body and the looks were just that. basically luxury cropped Spanish roots. Ostwald and Helgason also conscious and featured the There were voluminous midi leggings with zipper Classic Balenciaga-esque collaborated with Aldo for their designer’s favored cut-outs, skirts and cropped tops shown compartments, were quite nifty. couture volumes were combined shoes and bags — they were just while a lone branch print and in amped-up colors, and, as Likewise, the ergonomic double- with traditional craftwork as colorful and fun as the clothes. a jacquard in black-and-white expected, her signature fit-and- face leather jackets finished details — beautiful floral offered visual interest. Azrouël flare frocks. A standout in the with a flat tape technique and embroideries, prints and lace by Air: The progressive said in his show notes he was latter group was the purple cut with interior pockets to hold appliqués — for a look that street brand of the moment, going for “effortless ease,” and midi number with a red tropical iPhones, iPads, etc. was unabashedly feminine and Hood By Air continues to break he succeeded. floral print at its center. rooted in heritage yet looked down streetwear and transform Reese showed her romantic Public School: Dao-Yi Chow and thoroughly modern. it into a new fashion expression. Lela Rose: Architectural does not side with a group in white eyelet Maxwell Osborne, the Swarovski Font has an interesting eye “It was about making a new come to mind when considering and lace, used on everything Award-winning duo behind for colors, using beige raffia and sexy silhouette based off the ethereal and feminine from playful Public School, elevated the and linen to make lavender, our staples, such as Ts and clothes of Lela Rose. Yet she with matching cropped top to a brand’s streetwear aesthetic green and pink pop. Some of denim,” said designer Shayne combined her two passions this little dress with a ruffled hem. for spring, offering trend-right the grandeur — full, crinoline Oliver backstage. That silhou- season for a pretty collection men’s wear pieces such as the skirts, for example — could ette came through in mesh elon- filled with chic day dresses and Victor Alfaro: Back in the game season’s signature asymmetric be scaled back, but overall the gated basketball T-shirts and eveningwear. with a full lifestyle collection at wool gabardine vest, paired with collection was full of fresh takes bomber jackets and in denim Inspired by midcentury the ready, Victor Alfaro means a white pullover shirt and black on romance and decoration. layered over denim modern furniture and the work business. The ready-to-wear, track pants. shorts. With this strong collec- of Danish industrial designer shoes and bags of his relaunch “It’s a refined evolution of Ostwald Helgason: Five years tion, Hood By Air has moved for- Arne Jacobsen, Rose played collection were inspired by us doing sportswear meeting after launching their Ostwald ward and achieved an influen- with geometric patterns and typical activities of the modern tailored,” said Chow. “It’s the Helgason line, Susanne Ostwald tial balance between streetwear curvilinear shapes. But no day-to-day — hauling around culmination of a street-based look and Ingvar Helgason were in and the designer world. Lela Rose collection would your technology, dashing off but everything is elevated and a celebratory mood for spring. be complete without beautiful to spin class — worked with has a strong minimal aesthetic.” Their clothes felt happy, filled Jen Kao: Since Jen Kao called lace, which she worked into a upscale panache. Chow and Osborne also with bright blues, pinks, oranges her collection Hound & Hare, wood grain motif. She stacked A SoulCycle enthusiast played with prints and patterns, and greens and fun prints, it only made sense that two WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 19 WWD.COM

Public School Delpozo Ostwald Helgason Hood By Air Jen Kao

Mark Jonathan All Saints McNairy Simkhai FOR MORE REVIEWS New AND IMAGES, SEE Amsterdam WWD.com/ runway.

gorgeous hound dogs would and zebra-printed shorts. The walk the runway. As for the look was quirky and fun. hares, they appeared as colorful embroideries on a sexy Jonathan Simkhai: The rockers transparent minidress. versus the mods at the Battle of On a slightly deeper level Brighton Beach in the Sixties was of interpretation, the lineup the inspiration behind Jonathan started off strong (like a hound) Simkhai’s great collection, which with a range of denim-centered he interpreted by playing with pieces featuring a - intersecting lines. Clashing inspired feel, including a raw-cut stripes were placed on everything elongated vest with matching from cool leather dresses to a shorts and fold-over wide-leg chic jacket-and-skirt combo. pants topped with a woven raffia Simkhai also opted for longer bomber jacket. skirt lengths this season, but to keep From there things softened up them young and fresh, he paired with a group of Americana-themed them with sexy cropped tops. plaid outfits, and ended with the most feminine of all — fluid silk All Saints: The British brand made its chiffon dresses embellished with debut at New York Fashion Week muted floral motifs. with a well-executed collection of urban daywear staples. Mark McNairy New Amsterdam: Balancing construction and If anyone has a soft spot for fluidity, creative director Wil camouflage it’s Mark McNairy, Beedle paired a strong, well- who again played with the cut leather biker jacket with an motif in a variety of ways, from elongated white shirt and silk classic to digitally enhanced. His baggy shorts for a tomboy look, signature embroidered rubber while a pretty sleeveless bonded ducks, clowns and flowers were leather coat was also there, this time on shorts and worn over a comfortable cotton trousers. Sporty-yet-tailored pants and silk top matched with black featured sweatpant details at the and white floral printed shorts. cuffs, while athletic shorts from In keeping with the women’s his collaboration with Adidas range, the men’s collection was were tailored for a preppy twist. filled with urban wardrobe A major highlight was when basics such as a boxy cotton former Neiman Marcus fashion biker jacket with a loose white director Nick Wooster turned T-shirt and slouchy pants, as well runway model in a cobalt blazer as a suede zippered bomber with

paired with a button-down shirt military-inspired details. MITRA AND ROBERT RODIN BANICA, GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, TODD MATARAZZO GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 20 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013

HEADING TO A LISTING: Moncler Steven Kolb across the way. plans to list around 25 percent Further down, Zani Gugelmann FASHION SCOOPS of its shares, said Claudio posed for paps with Waris Costamagna, advisor for the Ahluwalia. Mazdack Rassi of Milk company’s long-awaited initial was letting fellow front rowers public offering, according to try on his Google Glass frames. LONDON RESPONDS: The British Maria Cuomo Cole with daughters a Reuters report. Costamagna “I’m in the superimportant Fashion Council wasted little Sheryl Crow Amanda and Emily. was speaking on the sidelines section,” he quipped before he time in responding to charges — LISA LOCKWOOD of the financial Forum departed for his seat. — T.H. of racial discrimination Ambrosetti in Cernobbio, Italy. on London runways. BFC YEEZY THE STOIC: Kanye West Confirming previous reports, ON SHOW: A selection of 250 spokeswoman Gemma Ebelis returned to his habit of Costamagna said the IPO is images by photographer David e-mailed The Diversity supporting British designer expected to take place between Bailey, selected by the man Coalition Thursday, according Louise Goldin from the front row the end of the year and early himself, will be on display to Bethann Hardison, the activist on Saturday afternoon at Milk next 2014, depending on the during a major exhibition of his and former model championing Studios. The pair reportedly market. Costamagna, who is an work at the National Portrait the campaign. collaborated on West’s line independent administrator of Gallery in London. Sponsored “While the British Fashion in 2011, and, last September, Italian eyewear giant Luxottica by , “Bailey’s Council does not organize West returned the favor, sitting and has for years held the role Stardust” will highlight photos model castings for London front row at Goldin’s New of president of Goldman Sachs’ from the last 50 years including Fashion Week, as its governing York debut with girlfriend Investment Banking division for some unseen images. body, we assert that all Kim Kardashian. On Saturday, Europe, the Middle East and From Jean Shrimpton to Mick participating designers should he arrived solo shortly before Africa, also noted that Moncler Jagger and , Bailey recognize that London is one of the show started, and made is not planning a capital has captured a vast range of the most multicultural cities in as subdued an entrance as is increase as the funds that own subjects in his candid style the world and should consider possible for a musician who the brand are expected to sell. and manner. The lensman will reflecting this demographic at named his most recent record Besides chairman and be creating new silver gelatin their shows and presentations,” STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY “Yeezus.” “Yeah. I don’t do creative director Remo Ruffini, prints of his black-and-white Ebelis wrote. “Model interviews,” he said after who has a 32 percent stake, the portraits and a new portrait of representation and welfare for photographers. The latter taking his seat and dutifully Paris-based Eurazeo has a 45 Moss will make its debut. To is extremely important to us then graciously posed — hand posing for a photographer or percent stake, The Carlyle Group coincide with the exhibition, and I would be very happy to on hip, of course — with fans two, after which he was left owns 17.8 percent and Brand Bailey will launch a book that meet with you to discuss things despite handlers’ attempts to entirely alone in the minutes Partners the remaining shares. features an essay by art critic further if you wish.” shove them away. “She’s done! before the show started. As reported in June, sources and writer Tim Marlow and more Hardison, whose group Sorry folks,” a security guard All those years of press in said the Italian brand than 250 images of his work. contacted the respective said, his arms raised to shoo standoffs have paid off, has chosen a pool of banks The exhibit runs from Feb. 6 to governing bodies of fashion away the shutterbugs. “Must it seems. Goldin’s show including Bank of America June 1. — LORELEI MARFIL weeks in New York, London, have had my hand in all those soundtrack ended with Corp., Mediobanca, Milan and Paris alleging racism shots,” he chuckled. — T.H. “Yeezus” standout “Send It Up.” Banca IMI, J.P. on the runways, said she is If West acknowledged his own Morgan and UBS game to speak to all and any of SCENES FROM A MALL: Alexander work at all, he kept to himself, to manage the the powers that be. As for those Wang’s annual postshow leaving the head bops and IPO and that it who have yet to respond to the September epic spectacle mouthed lyrics to the editors is waiting for the letters, which were not signed shifted to Pier 15 at the around him. — MATTHEW LYNCH right window. by an individual, she said, “It South Street Seaport this Moncler declined was sent by e-mail. You hit season. The designer helped FOUR EYES: Forever to comment. reply. That’s just common sense send off its tourist trap mall, bespectacled Dutch designers — LUISA ZARGANI to me.” — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG which is set to close today in Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren preparation for its post-Sandy are launching a range of ARGENTINE TARP TALK: “I love that Prabal demolition. Wang’s organizers, eyewear in Europe for spring DESIGNERS AT is so unpredictable. He’s full which included 2014 with France’s Paget Group. NYFW: Seven of surprises,” Allison Williams party promoters Team Shade, The and optical top Argentine said before taking her seat turned the west end of the frames, dubbed Viktor & Rolf designers showed at Prabal Gurung’s runway space’s third floor into a laser Vision, reflect the designers’ highlights of their show Saturday afternoon at and smoke-filled Tokyo bazaar couture spirit and penchant for spring collections Moynihan Station. “And from reminiscent of certain scenes glamour. The first collection at Lincoln Center the looks of it, it looks like he’s in “Blade Runner.” Admission comprises about 25 models for Friday night. The going unpredictable yet again!” to the party was an hour late women and men and will be show, originally The lithe actress scanned the from the announced start time unveiled at the Silmo trade fair developed by transparent tarp draping the of 10 p.m. (due in part to a late later this month in Paris. Styles The Ministry of center section of the room, the rehearsal by headliner Nicki include the one favored by the Foreign Affairs of topic of much of the preshow Minaj), which led to huge lines two men. Argentina, is in its chatter. “I was just backstage in front, much to the dismay of The frames, manufactured in fourth year and and I don’t even know what the bridge and tunnel diners the Jura district of France, are only during the to expect,” she continued. “I at the Pacific Grill. to retail from 185 euros to 240 spring collections. didn’t look at anything. I was — WWD STAFF euros, or $245 to $315 at current Ambassador José like tunnel vision, shielding my exchange rates. Luis Pérez-Gabilondo, eyes. I want it to be a surprise.” TO BIEBS OR NOT TO BIEBS: Justin Founded in 1886, Paget consul general David Bailey’s portrait of Kate Moss. On the other side of the Bieber showed his allegiance to also makes eyewear under the of Argentina, said, limpid box, Elettra Wiedemann the Y-3 brand by sitting in the Georges Rech and Inès de la “The main goal is spoke of her new guideline for front row at its runway show Fressange names. to bring Argentine designers MARK YOUR CALENDARS: Make show-week dressing. “Comfy. Sunday night at Moynihan Viktor & Rolf has marketed to New York to promote their room for another women’s That’s my new policy. I’m over it. Station. Unfortunately, the eyewear in Asia since 2003 talent and creativity in the trade show in February. Edit, I’m over the restricting clothes.” pop star wasn’t talking. Joe with Japanese licensing international stage.” a New York-based event A few seats down, Zachary Quinto Manganiello of “True Blood” partner Murai Inc. Paget is a Agostina Bianchi, known for featuring emerging designers buried himself in his iPhone, wasn’t as circumspect. He said subcontractor of Murai. her hand-crafted knitwear in the premium women’s wear only speaking with reporters Y-3 was his first runway show — MILES SOCHA designs, has shown around market, will have its initial begrudgingly. “I’ve actually of the season and he took time the world. This is her first run in February. Presented never been in New York during to drive down from New Haven, presentation in New York: “For by Business Journals Fashion fashion week so this is my first where’s he’s appearing in “A a designer, the best experience Group, which sponsors such time,” he said. “It’s been cool.” Streetcar Named Desire.” What is in New York. Being a part of shows as Fame, Moda Manhattan — TAYLOR HARRIS character? Stanley, of course. New York Fashion Week is like and Accessories The Show, Edit — JEAN E. PALMIERI playing in the big leagues.” is expected to have a curated CROW CALL: “Diane is like the Fabian Zitta, known for designs presentation of emerging trends first rock designer for females,” STREET WEAR: “We started out that play with texture and and directional product. The Sheryl Crow said, sitting patiently in a trailer and now we’ve layers, presented for the second show is geared to contemporary at Diane von Furstenberg’s show evolved to a garage,” said time in New York. He plans to and luxury retailers. on Sunday at Lincoln Center. Kenneth Cole about his venue open a showroom in New York Edit will take place at the “She’s in her own category.” choice. The garage, which next year and counts Pink and Jacob K. Javits Convention The sentiment was largely is attached to his West 50th Katie Holmes as celebrities who Center and will include echoed down the line of fellow Street headquarters, will now have worn his designs. concierge services and look notables seated front row — be used for presentations by — VICKI M. YOUNG books. Admission to Edit will Jessica Alba, Andy Cohen, Barbara Cole’s company, as well as be by invitation and approval Walters and Diane Sawyer among others. The models were on GLASS CLASS: Dree Hemingway only. Select department store them. “I’ve always loved her platforms sporting cameras. chugged her box of Vita Coco buyers and specialty stores clothes,” Allison Williams said. “The goal is to do uploads to before offering some to beau will be recruited through “She understands not only the share platforms for various Phil Winser, his brown hair down a targeted multichannel woman’s body but the female points of view,” he said. Among out of its usual ponytail at the marketing campaign. The show spirit and I love that.” those taking in the presentation front row of Nonoo’s runway will take place in February and Further down the way, Nicky were Carine Roitfeld, Ken Downing, Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting show at Eyebeam on Friday. September and will feature and Paris Hilton hammed it up Lisa Birnbach, Cindi Leive and wearing their signature . Jennifer Fisher caught up with fashion and accessories. The WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 21 WWD.COM initial show in February will had flown in for the occasion, THE COUNTESS SAYS have about 100 exhibitors. wound up having to wear Issey Alexandra d’Archangelo serves Miyake instead of the Vivienne as show director and Jennifer Tam gown she had packed, due Park is branding-merchandising to lost luggage. — R.F. manager. A private launch Enough to Say Dior party will take place during the BERNHOLTZ ENTERS E-TAIL: upcoming women’s market this Rock & Republic cofounder WHEN I WAS much younger — a mere girl, really month. — L.L. and former president Andrea — I was thrilled to be invited to a luncheon given Bernholtz’s latest venture is a by the great Christian Dior. As one can imagine, HANDLE WITH CARE: Karolina costume jewelry e-commerce everything was magnificent, but it was the Kurkova, Trudie Styler, Amy Tan site called My Bijoux Box. dessert that captivated me: a large chocolate egg. There and Petra Nemcova showed up Launching today, the site offers I cut into mine right after he did and out poured was the Friday night to honor Vivienne users an interactive experience hot chocolate sauce. You know I have a sweet occasional Tam at the first China Fashion tailored to their personal tooth, and I was in Heaven. hiccup. On Night gala hosted by the China styles, as well as access to I’ve never forgotten the courtesy of one very hot Charity Beauty Fund Friday Bernholtz for one-on-one style Dior and the smile on his face as he day, the show at The Pierre hotel. Chinese advice. Pieces range from $30 cut into that egg. He was the Humpty was delayed opera singer Hao Jiang Tian to $150 and have already been Dumpty of fashion (but never fell off By because of of the Metropolitan Opera worn by celebrities like Brooke the wall). one of the performed and designer Guo Shields. Bernholtz’s partner After lunch, he extended a rare great fashion Pei had her first runway show is Chad Kladstrup, former vice invitation for me to watch him work on Louise J. editors, in the U.S. Her labor-intensve president of retail for Rock & his next collection. We went downstairs Carmel Snow designs have been worn by Republic. — MARCY MEDINA into the all-gray salon, sat in the little Esterhazy of Harper’s Zhang Ziyi, Fan Bing Bing and Lady golden couture chairs and out came Bazaar. She Gaga. Song Zuying COLOR ME the first mannequin. She wore a suit didn’t travel wore one of her FOR MORE FASHIONABLE: Kids called the Three Swallows. Dior lifted the long with an entourage, unlike some fashion editors more extravagant SCOOPS, SEE can put their own stick he always used when he worked, pointed today, but arrived alone and asked if she could gowns for a duet spin on the season’s to the sleeve and said in his quiet voice, “I think have a daiquiri. They quickly made her one — and with Plácido Domingo WWD.com runway trends with something is wrong with the sleeve. It’s too thick. then the audience waited, and waited and waited. during the closing a coloring book I think we need to fix it.” It turned out that poor Carmel had accidentally ceremonies of the from social media Right away, the premier seamstress of the locked herself in the bathroom and they had to 2008 Beijing Olympics. incubator #SocialChats. suit atelier cut into the arm and removed some remove the door to get her out. When she walked One of Pei’s gowns that was The second edition of its New of the padding. As it came out, a huge smile into the salon, the entire audience applauded. shown Friday night was so York Fashion Week coloring came across Dior’s face, just like when he was There were personalities then who were heavy that the model who was book will feature sketches from consuming his chocolate egg. personalities simply to be that, not for publicity wearing it needed to be lifted DKNY, Marchesa, J.Mendel, You could tell his joy in making a collection or to get a blog. At that time at Dior, the Marquis onto the runway by three men, Narciso Rodriguez, Altuzarra and it made you feel happy, too. The way he Robert de Maussabre worked in public relations. according to one onlooker. and Christian Siriano. The directed the design staff and touched the One day, to protest France’s high taxes, the marquis Her presentation included a books benefit kid’s charity The clothes, you could tell he was the type of man blew up his chateau, which his family had owned gown inspired by the stained Art of Elysium. — M.M. since 1894 and which had glass domes of European been classified as a historic churches and another adorned GUEST OF HONOR: Missoni will be monument. It naturally with several thousand “Gong the guest designer at the next created a sensation — but Hua” silk flowers that had round of Tokyo Fashion Week France’s taxes are still high. been made exclusively for and kick off six days of shows, The couture shows the royal palace, after being running Oct. 14 to Oct. 19. Angela represented the best of salvaged from a deserted Missoni will make an appearance fashion and were done with factory storage room and in the Japanese capital, a romantic feeling that only painstakingly restored with according to fashion week the air of Paris can give. steam — an undertaking that organizers. There are currently There was no pushing or took nearly 50,000 hours. 32 brands on the Tokyo calendar, shoving; it just happened in The aforementioned model including Facetasm, Johan Ku, a formal but cozy way. The wasn’t the only one who had Matohu, Ne-Net and Motonari show began with each model wardrobe issues. Tan, who Ono. — KELLY WETHERILLE getting a slight ripple of applause, and near the end, with the evening dresses, the applause grew stronger. Neiman’s Sale Talk Heats Up Dior sat unseen behind the curtain, although one time {Continued from page one} asking price. That’s due to con- I glimpsed a skinny young Maidenform Brands Inc. in cern in recent weeks that the man with glasses peeking out 2004, and also had taken a look IPO window might close, given through it as the mannequins at Saks Inc. Ares also is among worries that the U.S. economy passed. It was the young a handful of financial sponsors would slow and the uncertainty Yves Saint Laurent. of Advanstar Global LLC, a of the impact of the political After the show ended and trade show operator. backdrop overseas in Syria. as the audience left, a crowd CPPIB is an investment orga- In addition, an IPO wouldn’t of passersby filled Avenue nization that invests the assets of provide the private equity firms Montaigne. They applauded the Canada Pension Plan. It in- a complete exit from their in- and cheered as Dior came vests globally, and had $188.9 bil- . An IPO would be only out onto the balcony of the PHOTO BY LOOMIS DEAN/TIME & LIFE PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES LOOMIS PHOTO BY lion in net assets as of June 30. for a small part of Neiman’s, Christian Dior (standing center with pointer) working on a new collection with maison and waved. It was a It was thought in recent with the owners retaining a ma- staff prior to a showing, Paris, France, 1957. tradition that continued for weeks that Neiman’s owners jority stake, sources said. That years, even after Dior’s death were closer to an IPO since raises risks that down the road whom people would strive to do their best for and once Saint Laurent and others took over. there didn’t seem to be any in- the balance of their stake might because they liked him so much. He was a Grand The French writer Jean-Baptiste Alphonse terest from a strategic buyer. garner a lower valuation if the Monsieur, and there were — and are — very few Karr coined the phrase plus ça change but things Private equity firms have essen- economy suffers as it did in in the fashion world. do change. The gentility of those Dior days is tially three options when exit- 2008 and luxury consumers pull Dior then invited me upstairs to the atelier to long gone. There’s nothing cozy about fashion ing their investment: a sale to a back on their purchases, one fi- show me the toile of the Three Swallows suit. In any longer, and over the next six weeks, as the strategic buyer, an IPO or a sale nancial source said. those days, and only sometimes today, designers fashion masses schlump through New York, to another financial sponsor. If these talks break up, the worked in canvas toile to settle on the shape of London, Milan and Paris, it will be one big circus Often the preference is a odds are still in favor of a sale every style. After the toiles were completed, they with thumping music, migraine-inducing lights sale to a strategic buyer who instead of an IPO. Sources said would then match the fabric to the shape rather and endless pushing, shoving and trying to figure might be willing to pay more KKR & Co. and CVC Capital is than the other way around. out who the C-list celebrity in the front row is and garner some back office another consortium that has Some of those toiles were later in high and why she is there. synergies with its existing been circling Neiman’s for sev- demand by the manufacturers of Seventh It’s all very serious, overly Hollywood-ized and platform. Flipping to another eral months, and are potential Avenue, who bought them in paper (they were all for overly egocentric designers. The shows financial sponsor hasn’t been backup buyers. KKR, in partic- too cheap to buy the toiles themselves) to knock have a lot of flash and dash but no quiet elegance. as prevalent because they are ular, has been eyeing Neiman’s off the designer creations for Middle America. But everything comes to an end. Talking thought to be not as willing and at one point was looking Those were the days when the runways still privately with Dior, I once asked him if he was ever to pay as much as strategic at a possible combination of ruled fashion. interested in the reviews of his collections. He said buyers. That thinking might Neiman’s and Saks. Saks sub- Having seen the toiles and the collection in no, there was so much work to do that he was on to change, since many financial sequently inked an agreement progress, I was eager to see the show. At that the next one right after he finished the last. buyers are still flush with cash to be acquired by Hudson’s time, the Dior couture shows were only for He became exhausted by it all, and a few that needs to be put to work. Bay Co. -shop period for the press and important ladies. There were years later, while taking the cure in Montecatini, In the case of Neiman’s, the Saks has ended. KKR could no major celebrities other than the Duchess he died of a heart attack at age 52. We were all two private equity firms also take another look at Saks but of Windsor. The audience would file in, kiss stunned and very, very saddened. When it came have an incentive to sell the would have to pay a higher Suzanne Luling, the directrice of the salon time to write the headline for the story in WWD, company, even if it means a break-up fee if it elects to pur- who was almost as tall as a giraffe, whom they it was simple: deal for less than the original sue the retailer again. adored, and then find their chairs. Enough to Say Dior. 22 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 WWD.COM

LONDON PREVIEW Pearce Fionda NEWS AROUND TOWN What’s new and different at the London shows. — JULIA NEEL Ones to Watch Q TOPSHOP TAKES A TRIP A few rising talents and some familiar faces on the London scene. Making a departure from the Tanks at the Tate Modern, where PEARCE FIONDA this beautiful collection. It was real- it was headquartered last season, Reynold Pearce and Andrew Fionda, ly successful in [proving] that. Really the Topshop Show Space will aka Pearce Fionda, are not exactly what good people were saying, ‘You know, move to Regents Park, a far cry you’d call newcomers to the London we felt like we suddenly discovered from the industrial belly of the Fashion Week lineup. They gathered that you can do this.’” gallery. The first show at the numerous industry accolades from 1996 Her hand-painted leather jackets custom-built space will be for through 1999, when they were regulars are what initially won her acclaim the brand’s own Unique label, on the LFW schedule, and this season, — she collaborated with Joseph on then designers including Marios they are making a return to the catwalk a limited-edition group of jackets — Schwab and Simone Rocha will after a 14-year absence. but the darkly whimsical, punk-spir- make use of the venue. “It’s been at the back of our minds for ited range from last season showed a while now, and we just felt that the time she’s capable of much more. Q SIZE MATTERS was right,” said Pearce. “It seemed that While she is keeping details of her The British Fashion Council’s of- our style of sophisticated and glamorous spring line under wraps, Barrow did ficial show venue in the courtyard dressing, with an attention to unusual cut- confide that it is based on magic — but at Somerset House has been ex- ting, wasn’t represented at the moment.” that it’s “a bit darker than that,” she said. panded to allow for an extra 200 Pearce and Fionda, who met in 1985, Expect lean lines, leather and denim seated guests. The BFC said that when they were both studying fashion in “with a twist.” this was to cater to the ever-in- college, have not been far from the indus- The Fashion East show is at 1 p.m. on creasing attention that the London try in the intervening years. The pair de- Sept. 17 at the Topshop Show Space. — J.N. collections are receiving from in- sign a collection for Debenhams together, ternational press and buyers.

while Pearce has been teaching — he ▲ MANOLO BLAHNIK says he’s “a big advocate of tech- Manolo Blahnik is no stranger Q RETAIL THERAPY nique and pattern-cutting” — and to fashion week — this season Should all those clothes inspire Fionda was running vintage bou- alone, he will provide the cat- the urge to splash some cash, The tiques in Brighton. walk shoes for Felder Felder, Shop, a new pop-up store in the Their return to the catwalk Osman, Richard Nicoll, West Wing of Somerset House, promises an emphasis on spe- Barbara Casasola, Emilia BARBARA CASASOLA will be selling fall ready-to-wear, cial-occasion clothes and dress- Wickstead and Pearce For Barbara Casasola, dusk is quite pos- accessories and shoes. The space, es that play on their strengths Fionda — and that’s just sibly the most important part of the day. which has been designed by set of pattern-cutting. the London crowd. “There are certain designers who don’t designer Robert Storey, with the “This season is an evolution But this season, think past 6 p.m.,” said the designer, who logo created by British Pop art- of what we’re known for,” said Blahnik will stage a pre- has Italian roots, was born and raised in ist Sir Peter Blake, will stock the Pearce. “It started from trying to sentation to showcase what Brazil and is now based in London. “So wares of brands including Markus think of new ways of applying our Kristina Blahnik, the design- far, I’ve been focusing on after 6 p.m. — Lupfer, Sophia Webster, Prism, technique of cutting, so that formed er’s niece and the deputy manag- but I don’t think of it as eveningwear.” Zoe Jordan and House of Holland. the silhouette and the attention on ing director of the business, calls She also believes her Latin back- There will also be flash sales, the areas of the body that are going “an insight into Manolo’s mind.” ground has shaped how she sees women: musical performances, readings, to be important for us this season; Last season, Blahnik provided the “sensual, but restrained.” interviews and guest appearances the back is our zone this season.” illustrated graphics for London Fashion After three seasons presenting her flagged via announcements on Expect long, lean lines, some Week branding, which was the impetus collection in Paris, Casasola will make social media, using the handles high-tech fabrics, a smattering of embel- for this season’s involvement. her London Fashion Week debut with @londonfashionwk #LFW lishment and flashes of flesh. “It was time to do something totally a runway show at White Cube Gallery #TheShop. It will be open Sept. Pearce Fionda presents at 1 p.m. on unique,” Kristina Blahnik said. “The in- in St. James’ on Sept. 15, while Harvey 13 to 22. Sept. 13. — JULIA NEEL ternational press’ eyes are on London, Nichols has the exclusive on her winter so it’s a chance for Manolo to present his 2013 collection, which it will showcase Q WELCOME TO THE CIRCUS CLAIRE BARROW conceptual ideas and the more dramatic on its first floor, alongside and New to the official LFW lineup This will be Claire Barrow’s third out- shoes that might not get as much light of Valentino. Her other retail accounts in- of shows and presentations for ing on the Fashion East runway, and day as we’d like.” clude Joyce, Luisa via Roma, and the spring are Barbara Casasola, after last season’s unexpected and well- The younger Blahnik was mum on de- multibrand concept store Symphony Pearce Fionda, Markus Lupfer, received change of direction, she hopes tails of the presentation, but she said it Style in Dubai. Manolo Blahnik and Smythson. she’ll win kudos again. would be a collaboration with people who Casasola sums up her spring collec- “Last season I took a risk — it was “get Manolo,” and feature Blahnik’s obses- tion in a word — intimacy — and will quite off the mark compared to my signa- sions with cultural references, different continue to work with her signature mid- ture biker jackets,” Barrow said. “I went forms of media, film, music and drawing. length dress shapes fit for post-6 p.m. CHARLIE BREAR in a different direction to show that I can The Manolo Blahnik presentation will wardrobes. She’s working with layering, A ready-to-wear collection from someone do more than a jacket, to show that I had run from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sept. 14. — J.N. transparencies and fabrics with finishes who’s known for her bridal collections like satin and cady. might not sound like the kind of thing Casasola, who studied fashion in that would float too many boats. But then Claire Charlie Barbara London and Milan and who has worked Charlie Brear wasn’t always a purveyor Barrow Brear Casasola for brands including and of frocks to brides. Lanvin, has also been short listed for Brear had been a stylist for 15 years the 2013 Dorchester Collection Fashion when she was required to source a Prize, which will be announced on Oct. plethora of vintage wedding dresses 29 in London. — SAMANTHA CONTI for a shoot. When she sold them after- ward, she was surprised at how popular they were — and that lightbulb moment led her to found The Vintage Wedding FAST FACTS: Dress Co. LONDON FASHION WEEK That company was re-branded as Q There are 58 catwalk shows and Charlie Brear this year, in time for 15 presentations on the official the launch of her first rtw collection, schedule for the five-day event. designed in collaboration with stylist Anna Foster. Q More than 5,000 buyers, TV The clothes have clear commercial and radio crews, journalists and appeal, but that doesn’t undermine the photographers are expected. vision and confidence that comes through in a tightly balanced palette of denim Q About 100 million pounds, or blue, buttercup, mink, shell pink and $151 million, worth of orders are inky navy. Shapes are effortlessly lady- expected to be placed during like — and all designed to look as good LFW. More than 74 million with heels as with flats. pounds, or $112 million, of orders Among the highlights are full skirts are generated by the International in damask and brocade, a reversible ki- Guest Programme alone. mono, a clever three-in-one look made of a leather and cropped jacket, Q The U.K. fashion industry a shearling vest, a white lace boiler suit directly generates 21 billion and a navy coated-lace pleated skirt. pounds, or $31.8 billion, for the Gentle sporty touches play off the fem- British economy. — J.N. ininity and add an easy edge. Charlie Brear will show by appoint- ment on Sept. 16. — J.N.

24 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 WWD.COM

LONDON PREVIEW An image from Miles Aldridge’s FOR MORE ON “I Only Want You to Love Me” show. LONDON SCENE, SEE The latest hot spots WWD.com/ to check out during fashion-news. Scene fashion week. NIKKEI NICE: Japanese/Peruvian fusion WESTERN HO!: Jessica and Victoria Blake, food is a real category called Nikkei cui- founders of Notting Hill jeweler Jessie sine that’s been around in Peru forever, Western, are known for turquoise pieces and it’s landing on Frith Street in Soho inspired by the natural world. Now, they at Chotto Matte courtesy of Kurt Zdesar, are launching their first diamond collec- who first brought Nobu to Europe. tion, Star Chaser. Spread over three floors, the ground The Blake sisters have been design- level features a lava stone cocktail bar for ing jewelry and working with stones for 23 inventive takes on pisco, sochu and sake years, and have had a shop on Portobello tipples; an à la carte restaurant, and a Road for more than a decade. They count raw bar attended by a master sushi chef Kate Moss, Elle Macpherson, Kate Hudson who used to slice and dice for the em- and Minnie Driver among their clients, and peror of Japan. Upstairs, there’s an open in the autumn, their jewelry will appear on robata grill and a sushi bar. Cameron Diaz and Brad Pitt in the upcom- The menu is designed to be shared ing Ridley Scott film “The Counselor.” and includes morsels like avocado tem- They are also set to relaunch their pura with smoked purple potato, BBQ Web site, and aim to expand into whole- pork belly nashi pear salsa and grilled sale for select clients. baby chicken with spicy pomegranate Their latest collection features dia- STRIKING SNAPS: British fashion pho- inspired by the traditional aristocratic salsa. Andy Martin designed the interiors monds in various shapes, sizes and colors, tographer Miles Aldridge is having a English country manor and the quintes- to evoke a buzzy Tokyo vibe with large- as well as other precious gems mounted moment at Somerset House, the head- sential London private gentleman’s club, scale bespoke graphics by Tokyo-based on gold and silver jewelry shaped like quarters for London Fashion Week, with an urban feel. painter and graffiti artist Houxo Que. wolves, snakes, thunderbirds, feathers where a major retrospective of his The 173-room hotel will also have two — JULIA NEEL and leaves. Prices start at 129 pounds, or work is on show. To coincide with the bars and a restaurant, Berners Tavern, $200, for an 18-karat gold and silver dia- publication of his book, “I Only Want by Jason Atherton — the chef behind Chotto Matte mond charm, and 399 pounds, or $621, for You to Love Me,” published by Rizzoli, Pollen Street Social. The Punch Room, 11 Frith Street, W1D 4RB a white, yellow, or oxidized gold diamond the exhibition features large-scale at the back of the hotel, is an ode to Tel.: +44-020-7042-7171 band. One of the highest price points is photographic prints from throughout London’s posh gentlemen’s clubs — a Web: chotto-matte.com 3,500 pounds, or $5,449, for a turtle brace- his career, including previously unpub- cocktail bar with no bar, where drinks let made of diamonds. lished material as well as hand-drawn are delivered on silver trays. Because The sisters are British, but spent much storyboards, drawings, Polaroids and this is London, after all. — J.N. Chotto Matte of their youth on a Seminole reservation magazines, offering an intimate insight in the Florida Everglades, have lived into his creative mind. London Edition and traveled extensively in the American Color and women — his twin obses- 10 Berners Street, W1T 3LF Southwest and forged close relation- sions — star in the collection, filled with Tel.: +44-020-7781-0000 ships with Native American artists over glamazons and beauties, sexpots and Web: edition-hotels-marriott.com the years. Their designs reflect their awe mothers, while influences from direc- of the natural world. Jessica describes a tors David Lynch and Federico Fellini rough-cut, double blue aquamarine stone are evident in his cinematic style, as are A Michael Caines creation at as the color of a “high mountain lake,” the psychedelic leanings of his father, Harrods Food Hall. and jewelry designs show running foxes Alan Aldridge. or swimming turtles, with moving legs. “The pictures are an attempt to rep- “As artists, we have an unusual view- licate and reflect contemporary society point, with a passion for the unique and and life,” Aldridge told WWD on opening ECLECTIC EXTENSION: The Paul Smith bou- for gem-quality stones,” said Jessica, who night. “So I use these amazing women as tique in Mayfair has a new look. Extending draws each piece in detail and sources metaphors or examples of our era.” into the space next door, Sir Paul, an avid all of the stones and materials with — L.M. collector, will showcase his treasure trove Victoria, an abstract artist. of curiosities alongside his collections. — SAMANTHA CONTI Miles Aldridge “I Only Want You to Love Me” The space will carry men’s and wom- Runs through Sept. 29 en’s apparel, furniture, special pieces and Jessie Western Somerset House Embankment Galleries one-off designs. The store has been di- 82B Portobello Road, W11 2QD Strand, WC2R 1LA vided into three whimsical sections: The Tel.: +44-20-7229-2544 Tel.: +44-20-7845-4600 women’s area takes inspiration from the Web: jessiewestern.com Web: somersethouse.org.uk neighborhood’s art history and Barbara Hepworth’s studio, while the walls of the NEW EDITION: London is buzzing about Ian shoe department are adorned with more Schrager’s return to the hotel business than 30,000 dominoes. Organic wood, in the city. Just down the road from The bronze furniture and bespoke fixtures Sanderson, which Schrager opened in offer a chic and masculine feel in the 2000, it is part of a collaboration between men’s department, while the furniture the hotelier and Marriott on a group of area has a gallery-style appeal. Edition hotels that will eventually have COUNTER SERVICE: Two-Michellin-starred -— LORELEI MARFIL 100 properties globally; there’s one in chef Michael Caines usually plies his trade Istanbul already. from Gidleigh Park, the genteel country- Paul Smith The London Edition promises all of house hotel in the wilds of Dartmoor in 9 Albemarle Street, W1S 4BL Jessica and Schrager’s Studio 54 panache, with a Devon. He has a new cookbook coming Tel.: +44-020-7493-4565 Victoria Blake generous wash of Englishness thrown in. out called “Michael Caines at Home,” but Web: paulsmith.co.uk It is housed in a Georgian building and for the next two months, he will make the Traiteur counter at Harrods’ Food Hall his Ian Schrager’s home away from home, of- London Edition. fering a selection of meals to go inspired by the book. As part of the re- tailer’s Chef of the Season initiative, Caines will dish up modern European fare includ- ing haddock and leek quiche; bouillabaisse with sea bass, prawns, scallops and salmon, and chocolate orange confit mousse. It will be the first time that his culinary creations are available in London. — J.N.

Harrods Food Hall 87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7XL Paul Smith Tel.: +44-020-7730-1234 Web: harrods.com THE TRANSFORMERS

APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT

OCT 28–29 NEW YORK CITY

LESLIE MOONVES CBS CORPORATION

Newly announced: an exclusive conversation

WWD.COM/APPAREL for a full list of speakers TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4824

SPONSORED BY 26 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 DFS Rebrands Galleria Units With New Moniker drive forward,” Schaus recounted. “So, which was founded by Robert Miller and are not duty free,” said Schaus. “There are By RACHEL BROWN we strengthened our marketing team. We Charles Feeney in 1960 and was acquired other locations where everything is duty didn’t have a real marketing team. There by LVMH in 1996 when Feeney sold his free. The whole model has evolved. It is HONOLULU — The DFS Group has a were marketing roles that were dispersed interest, downtown stores started as satel- no longer just one model where it is duty new brand identity for its downtown lo- in the organization. One of the first things lites to DFS’ principal focus of developing free, and you pick it up at the airport.” cations that the travel retailer believes is I did was to hire a head of marketing and airport locations. “The whole idea with The changes to the T Galleria loca- on par with its luxury positioning. put the marketing functions underneath downtown stores originally was that peo- tions, as well as at the airport locations, On Saturday in Honolulu, the city that head. We started very seriously ple, when they were in the airport, they are being made with an eye toward the where the first DFS shop outside an air- working on the process of rebranding the were in a hurry, and there wasn’t enough Chinese traveler, which the DFS Group is port was opened 40 years ago, LVMH stores, understanding why we were doing space in the airport. It was all about banking on to drive the growth of sales in Moët Hennessy -owned DFS it and defining what it could be.” checking in, getting boarding passes, doing the luxury travel retail sector. There are Group revealed those downtown locations Although DFS considered numerous some quick purchases. The idea was that those who think China’s strength could that have been under the DFS Galleria names, “T” appealed to Schaus and the they were spending much more time in be waning, but Schaus and his colleagues nameplate will be now called T Galleria team of DFS marketers because it’s sim- town. They could by DFS. With the T standing for “traveler,” ple, easily understood by potential trav- have a place where the moniker is part of a marketing effort elers all over the world and visually com- they could discover by Philippe Schaus, who became chair- manding. DFS is staying as part of the the product offer- FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE man and chief executive officer of the DFS new moniker with the words “by DFS” ings, make preselec- WWD.com Group in 2012. The goal is to put a spot- to validate it and the logo for loyal shop- tions to buy there light on travel retail, and DFS in particu- pers who trust the brand and recognize it and then get it deliv- lar, as a powerful force in the business of for its historic initials. But Schaus added ered at the airport,” global luxury, especially as Chinese tour- that he hopes the updated name will dis- explained Schaus. ists travel abroad in greater numbers. tinguish the T Galleria stores from other As time passed, “The stores have been upgraded, and stores both in the travel and nontravel the Galleria stores we felt that the name DFS Galleria did not sectors using the terms “duty-free” or became comparable reflect that upgrading,” said Schaus. “It “galleria,” or terms like them. to luxury department was necessary to name it for what we have “We take away a little bit of the confu- stores rather than become, a luxury shopping destination.” sion that might have existed, and we have being mere satellites The T Galleria name and an associat- a name that is a lot easier to remember of airport units. For ed sleek “T” logo with a prominent, thick and to translate,” said Schaus. “The im- instance, the three- stem and thin, elongated arms, was creat- pact will not be so much on the product level, 210,000-square- ed by an in-house marketing department side because we already upgraded the foot T Galleria in led by DFS Group’s president of con- product offering and the re-brand will not Honolulu’s Waikiki The T Galleria logo. sumer marketing and branding Sibylle change that strategy. On the operational neighborhood show- Scherer, who was formerly at the helm side of the stores, it also won’t have much cases more than 140 of strategic marketing at Escada. The impact.…Where there is really going to be brands, including roughly 27 watch brands at DFS are not among them. “There is branding exercise, which took around two a difference is on the marketing and com- and 60 beauty brands, many of them in skepticism because it has grown so much years, had been on DFS’ agenda when munication side because this allows us to prominent individual store formats that already. People tend to think that maybe Schaus arrived at the travel retailer as it communicate in a much clearer way with- are tailored to a brand’s look and feel. that’s the end of the story. The growth isn’t sought to communicate its message more out confusion about who we are. We are a There are 470 multilingual employees in linear. People have seen in the last few effectively across the world. great luxury destination for travelers and the store speaking Japanese, Mandarin, months a little bit of a slowdown of the “That was one of the first projects will build brand equity around that.” Cantonese and Korean. growth rates in China, and they interpret that the shareholders asked me to really In the early years of the DFS Group, There are 14 T Galleria locations that as maybe there is a saturation of the worldwide and 420 total DFS locations Chinese market. Our view is that is not the on three continents. In 2012, some 211 case. There are so many more people who million people went through DFS’ doors, are going to come on the market to travel where 700 brands are sold, and there are and to shop when they travel that we be- 420 branded boutique stores. While they lieve that we are in for further enormous were there, customers purchased 70 mil- growth over the next years,” said Schaus. WE WORK HARD FOR lion products, including 3.5 million bot- In a presentation to 100 of its brand tles of perfume, 2 million lipsticks, 1.5 partners, the DFS Group laid out the case million handbags and 350,000 sunglasses. for its confidence in the Chinese tourist Along with Sephora, Le Bon Marché by underscoring that urbanization and and Miami Cruiseline, DFS is within the burgeoning middle class will foster a YOUR SUCCESS. LVMH’s Selective Retailing division. larger appetite for travel in Chinese citi- That division’s revenues last year rose zens. In fact, Lamonte James Beighley, about 22 percent to nearly 7.9 billion executive vice president for strategy and euros, or around $10.1 billion, and its market development at the DFS Group, profits from recurring operations ad- pointed out that DFS has identified Business isn’t easy—but there’s vanced 19 percent to 854 million euros, “urban expenditure” by Chinese people much less to worry about when or $1.1 billion. In the first half of 2013, as the primary predictor of whether your credit and fi nancing partner the division’s sales rose 17 percent to they will travel abroad and that expen- 4.21 billion euros, or nearly $5.6 billion diture is sure to mount as Chinese cities takes the time and makes the effort at current exchange rates, and profits balloon. The retailer forecasts that, in to understand your situation. At from recurring operations climbed 9 2020, the number of Chinese outbound Milberg Factors we push ourselves, percent to 407 million euros, or about travelers will be 175 million, up from doing all we can to help you grow $536 million at current exchange rates. 80 million last year. It also pointed out and exceed your goals. Talking specifically about the T that the United Nations World Tourism Galleria store in Waikiki over the last Organization has found that $102 billion five years, Harold Brooks, president was spent by the Chinese on internation- Depending on your needs, we can of global merchandising for the DFS al tourism in 2012, 65 percent of which underwrite the credit risk of your Group, said, “The brand portfolio has was related to shopping. About 40 per- accounts receivable, provide been expanded. As you walk through cent of Chinese spending on luxury goods working-capital fi nancing, and handle the store today, you will see Loewe, is done overseas, according to Bain & Co. your receivables bookkeeping and you see Céline, you see Chloé, you see As DFS ponders how to capitalize on collections. You’ll get personal Ermenegildo Zegna. Those brands were Chinese travelers’ desire for luxury goods service, 24/7 account information— not part of the mix five years ago. If — and a similar desire from the citizens you walk through the beauty floor, the of emerging Southeast Asian countries, and our commitment to help you extensive brand portfolio and lineup from which DFS estimates there will be 75 reach new heights. So give us a call! today is completely different from what million new international travelers in the you would have seen five years ago. next decade or so — it is concentrating on Most recently, we opened in expanding many of its current T Galleria what is the first travel retail installation stores and zeroing in on cities where the for Tom Ford anywhere in the world.” Chinese might want to travel to possibly Most of the T Galleria business now open T Galleria locations down the line. isn’t duty free, and shoppers are spend- DFS has already invested several hundred ing more time at those locations and million dollars over the past few years in Milberg Factors, Inc. more money than they do at airport renovating the downtown stores. units. “In our Hong Kong and Macau “At any point of time now, we are work- A TRADITION OF ENTREPRENEURIAL FINANCE Gallerias, we are selling at the same ing on expanding most of our Galleria Call 212.697.4200 price as the rest of the market because stores in some way,” said Schaus. “We Dan Milberg, SVP, NY Hong Kong and Macau are tax free. The have embarked on a big renovation and Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 value proposition is not about price expansion project at our store in Bali. Ernie White, SVP, Winston-Salem 336.714.8852 there, at least not compared to other re- Bali is going to become a very big destina- tailers. Here in Hawaii, we have a mixed tion for PRC customers, among others, so model where we have the upper floor we are expanding and upgrading our Bali www.milbergfactors.com ©2013 Milberg Factors, Inc. which is duty free with delivery at the store. We have also embarked on redoing airport, but the ground and first floors our store in Sydney.” WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 27 WWD.COM Inside Stuart Weitzman’s Zaha Weitzman on Expansion Track Hadid-designed Milan flagship. focus on the Asia-Pacific region, as its own stores as a “laboratory” By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD she did in her previous job. for new styles. Once the collec- As it is for many brands today, tion is on firmer ground, it will STUART WEITZMAN is enter- Asia has become a vital source begin selling bags, which will ing a new phase of growth. of growth for Weitzman, who will retail from between $595 and With a sleek, splashy store de- open 20 stores there by 2014, $1,200, to its retail partners. signed by Zaha Hadid set to open half of which will be located in What’s different this time in Milan Monday and at least 50 China. According to The Jones about Weitzman’s line new doors in the works by the Group Inc.-owned firm, even is that there is a now a compre- end of 2014, Weitzman is on the though Weitzman’s business has hensive team of designers and move. As part of the brand’s ex- been built on wholesale opera- merchants behind it, which is in pansion strategy, former vice tions, it is now emphasizing di- the process of creating its collec- chairman Wayne Kulkin has rect-to-consumer growth. tion for fall 2014. been named chief executive of- Boutiques are not only a way In the immediate future, the ficer, effective immediately. to show the company’s full col- brand is turning its attention to Kulkin started at the New lection, but they also allow the its Milan store plan, which, ac- York-based firm 23 years ago, brand to capitalize on tourists’ cording to Weitzman, marks a declined the project, which waits. The clerk will then radio and has held various positions dollars, Kulkin noted. new chapter. would mark the Weitzman’s down to the salesperson to bring through the ranks, from sales- “Our business was really do- “We really started a sea- 100th standalone store. along that pair of shoes as well. man to brand president. mestically based,” the ceo said, son or so ago to make some big “I think it was easier to The brand intends to use “He came to me in shorts,” adding that seven years earlier, 80 moves to make our company get my shoes into Bergdorf Hadid’s design and sales tech- Weitzman told WWD. “He was a percent of its business came from well-known around the world,” Goodman than to convince this nique in stores in Hong Kong, young kid. I’ve found that when North America. Today, the busi- the designer said, explaining woman,” Weitzman said with Rome and in the Weitzman you have someone in your busi- ness is split evenly between inter- that after launching a recent a laugh, but over time, Hadid’s Madison Avenue flagship, as ness that has worked in every national wholesale sales, North advertising campaign by Mario “nos became maybes and her well as potentially in Paris, aspect of it, you can’t find some- American wholesale sales and Testino, featuring Kate Moss, maybes became yeses.” London, Shanghai or Beijing. one else like that. He’s basically global direct-to-consumer sales. the brand looked at further re- With creative control of the Calling her designs “liv- had the ceo position for the last With the brand’s internation- vamping its image. store’s interiors and exteriors, ing architecture,” Weitzman five years.” al business over the next two “We wanted a unique design,” Hadid and her team created an seemed equally impressed by Kulkin will continue to re- years expected to expand at a he said, referring to the compa- environment where customers Hadid as he was optimistic for port to executive chairman, 50 percent rate and its U.S. busi- ny’s stores. “We wanted to make can interact with the product his brand’s future. Weitzman, who said that the ness anticipated to increase at a some noise. I definitely didn’t and displays in a unique way. “I think my next project is to new ceo’s mandate is to facili- 5 to 10 percent rate, the compa- want a traditional architect.” According to Weitzman, shop- get her to design a shoe for us,” tate the rapid growth of the $300 ny looks to derive growth from As a result, Weitzman ap- pers will be able to sit in the fix- the designer said of Hadid. “We million business via new hires. its nascent handbag line. proached Hadid to design the tures, which house some of the fill a white space. We’re the first The brand, which also just hired According to Kulkin, company’s 2,500-square-foot display shoes. Hadid and her price in the [designer] salon and it former Ltd. head of mar- Weitzman is reinvesting in bi-level flagship on Milan’s Via team also came up with a sales just seems to be getting to be more keting Roberta Lee for the new handbags, a category it has Sant’Andrea. concept to go along with the fix- and more of an advantage for us. post of vice president of mar- tried to build out in the past. At first Hadid, who has de- tures. Essentially, when a cus- Many of our customers from all keting, is still on the hunt for a Currently, handbags make up signed noted buildings such as tomer is waiting for a salesperson over the world need the trends of president and head of retail. just 5 percent of sales, but the The London Aquatics Centre and to retrieve a pair of shoes, a store the moment....They just don’t need Lee, who will report to chief brand is looking to build the the MAXXI National Museum of clerk will monitor which shoes them from designer shoe brands, marketing officer Susan Duffy, will business to 20 percent by using the 21st Century Arts in Rome, the customer is admiring as she they need them from us, too.”

Look for The Curved Oval Button The mark of signature jewelry 28 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 Mayoral Hopefuls on

Bill Christine Anthony John de Blasio Quinn Weiner Liu

Bill Thompson

{Continued from page one} Program in New York City’s Department in over 800 fashion companies. Not only protect zoning for light manufacturing each year to check out apparel trade of Design and Construction to other gov- do we need to maintain this industry and and also ensure that small businesses are shows, showrooms and stores. ernment agencies in order to preclear the jobs that come along with it, we need given opportunities·· to connect to suppli- Bloomberg set up Fashion.NYC.2020 small design firms for frequent requests to expand and grow on the successes ers, distributors and manufacturers, in- to try and position the city as a hub for proposal [FRP] tasks and to tap into we have by showcasing local designers stead of being subject to fines and fees.” of innovation for emerging designers, New York’s design talent working in through NYCxDesign and supporting as well as retailers and executives. firms without the institutional capacity New York City-based manufacturing of John Liu Whether that actually flies will no to apply for small individual RFPs. local design products,” Quinn said. When his family first moved from Taiwan doubt depend on his successor. Some Q Encourage collaboration between the Other initiatives include: in 1972, Liu’s mother Jamy spent 12 years have criticized the mayor for not rezon- city’s stellar design schools in order to Q “Grow the successful NYCxDesign festi- working in sweatshops in Queens. The ing the waning Garment District, which pool resources to support fashion incu- val that [Quinn] created this year with the City Comptroller, who in 2009 became the once employed hundreds of thousands bators, shared space and entrepreneur- design and fashion community, and which first Asian-American elected to a New of workers and produced most of the ship training for young designers early in included over 300 individual events, at 180 York City office, described those child- clothing in the U.S. their careers. venues in all five boroughs. NYCxDesign hood years as “a very rough experience In the wake of decades of increased Q Connect design firms to small business- showcases local designers and helps ex- offshore production, New York’s fashion es and business improvement districts in port their products across the country and industry is now as much about marketing order to give New York’s small business- around the world. It also provides classes as it once was about manufacturing. And es access to New York’s design talent. to emerging designers in partnership The fashion industry as more and more Americans are inclined Q End the ticketing blitz by banning fine with the Fashion Institute of Technology, to shop online, designers and brands are quotas on small businesses and creating Pratt and Parsons, in addition to the City’s has been the gateway dealing with more challenges than ever to a tiered classification system. “We need Department of Small Business Services.” try to tap into their share of the $350 bil- to help small businesses comply with the Q Further invest in the Brooklyn Navy lion fashion business in the U.S. law instead of milking them as a source Yard to create more spaces for small de- to the middle class With that in mind, WWD approached of revenue, while ensuring our enforce- sign manufacturers. Build on her Small all of the candidates to find out how they ment resources are targeted toward the Manufacturing Investment Fund that pro- for generations of would stimulate growth in New York most egregious offenses.” vides capital to developers to subdivide

City’s fashion and retail industries. Q Create a $100 million revolving loan and modernize outdated manufacturing immigrants. These All except two candidates responded. fund for neighborhood small businesses spaces for smaller, artisanal manufactur- Bill Thompson’s schedule was “too jam looking to start or grow. ing firms like apparel companies. packed” and an Erick Salgado spokesman kinds of opportunities agreed but failed to deliver the candi- Bill Thompson Anthony Weiner date’s views by press time. Thompson, who attended a Save the “The fashion and retail industries are need to be saved in JOHN LAMPARSKI/WIREIMAGE BY

A few of the candidates know the in- Garment Center rally during his 2009 crucial to the stability and growth of our dustry firsthand. Both John Liu’s and Sal mayoral run, declined to participate. city’s economy. From students to models New York City. Albanese’s mothers worked in New York His Web site references such business to designers and to all of the professions factories for years (in July, The New York initiatives as: they work with, New York City relies on — JOHN LIU Metropolitan Area Joint Board of Workers Q Appointing a chief jobs officer who, the talents of its creative class to be a United/SEIU, which represents 10,000- among other things, would start a pro- global leader,” Weiner said. plus active and retired garment workers, gram using Match.com-type·· analytics to “From fighting for copyright protec- for her and my family, but I guess we al- endorsed Liu for mayor), while McDonald connect businesses with unemployed tions for designers to ensuring that our ways chalked it up to the typical immi- worked at McGregor Sportswear and in- New Yorkers. companies can bring in the talent they grant experience.” After specializing in dependent candidate Jack Hidary used to Q Strengthen workforce training and need from all over the world, I was a hand-powered knitting, his mother saved punch the clock at his family’s 65-year-old increase employee preparation edu- champion for the fashion industry in enough money to buy a small grocery apparel company during high school sum- cation funding to $120 million, which Congress, and will continue to be as store with her brother, Paul. mers. And John Catsimatidis, a self-made will allow New York City to train up to mayor,” Weiner said. “Often crowded Liu’s mother-in-law, So Lee, also billionaire by way of Gristedes, has been 150,000 residents. out by larger manufacturers or commer- worked in the industry, sewing in designing for 20-plus years. cial retailers and facing ever-increasing Chinatown factories. “The fashion in- Here is what the candidates had to Christine Quinn rents, independent designers face many dustry has been the gateway to the mid- say about what they would do to stimu- “One of New York’s premier industries is challenges in being able to do business dle class for generations ··of immigrants. late the New York fashion and retail in- fashion, employing over 200,000 people in New York City. My proposals would These kinds of opportunities need to be dustries, ranked by their positions in the saved in New York City,” he said. “In re- latest polls as of Sunday. cent years, obviously overseas produc- tion has taken a toll. I am a proponent Not only do we need to maintain [the fashion] of retaining and bringing back some of DEMOCRATS those jobs including garment manufac- turing. Obviously, there is a different industry and the jobs that come along with it, global economy today but that shouldn’t Bill de Blasio preclude us from retaining and creating De Blasio said he would take the follow- we need to expand and grow on the successes as many jobs as we can. The fashion in- ing steps “in order to cultivate the con- dustry has been a mainstay in New York tinued growth and vibrancy of the city’s City for so long.” fashion and design sectors, while ensur- we have by showcasing local designers through Protecting the Fashion District, cre- ing the benefits of this economic growth ating jobs and promoting fashion week are shared by even more New Yorkers.” NYCxDesign and supporting New York City- are priorities. “We live in a global econ- Q Ensure NYCxDesign and New York omy and the conventional wisdom is that Fashion Week continue to be annual cel- clothing production is being done less ebrations of New York’s design and fash- based manufacturing of local design products. and less in the U.S. and in New York City. ion communities. We need to develop those opportunities,” — CHRISTINE QUINN Q Expand the Design Excellence ·· he said. “I don’t think we should throw ROB KIM/GETTY KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE; IMAGES; LHOTA QUINN BY IMAGES; THOMPSON BY DE BLASIO MARIO TAMA/GETTY AND WEINER PHOTOS BY WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 29 WWD.COM Revitalizing Industry

Sal Erick Joe Albanese Salgado Lhota

George John Jack ·· McDonald Catsimatidis Hidary

in the towel when it comes to the fashion continue to grow and expand beyond tively priced manufacturing space. He mayor will keep taxes down and get rid industry in New York City. Lincoln Center, where the world’s most also believes we need to nurture and of the burdensome regulations that are “We have one of the biggest fashion creative designers can showcase their tal- encourage the cutting-edge designers hurting our small businesses, they will be

weeks in the world. This is something ent,” Lhota said. “The fashion industry is which still call New York home by work- able to hire and grow — which will ben- we should promote and encourage more indispensable to the city’s economy, and ing with our design schools and compa- efit all New Yorkers.” people to show here. And if they show we need to find ways in this changing mar- nies to create opportunities. As mayor, here, then they may have the opportunity ketplace to keep and create new jobs.” McDonald would promote, participate to engage in some component of produc- and support fashion week as a unique INDEPENDENT tion here. Basically, this is in my blood NYC experience that is essential for ex-

and I’m never going to let go of it.” posure and tourism spending. He also The fashion industry believes in preserving the essence of Jack Hidary Sal Albanese the garment district in NYC to retain a “My family has been doing business The Italian-born, Brooklyn-bred candidate is indispensable to critical mass of talent, expertise and re- in the garment district for more than said he has fond memories of his mother, sources,” the spokesman said. 65 years through M. Hidary & Co. Inc., Elvira, being a piece-goods garment work- which designs sports clothing for Fila er for more than 32 years. “That part of the the city’s economy, John Catsimatidis·· and others. I did jobs there as a kid. business is gone now,” Albanese said. “I have been designing my own neckties Great experience. We have personally A fan of building upon Fashion. and we need to find for over 20 years, so I know firsthand seen the challenges in New York’s appar- NYC.2020, Albanese said he would also how important the garment industry is el market. As mayor, I will make sure to encourage the New York City Economic to New York City,” he said of the gifts he stimulate growth in this important sector Development Corp. to work more closely ways in this changing started making to give politician friends through a number of key initiatives. I will with the industry to leverage strengths like Bill Clinton. launch new design coworking spaces in and develop more technologically pro- marketplace to keep Catsimatidis has another interest- all five boroughs. While we have a hand- gressive programs. Enhancing collabo- ing political tie. His daughter Andrea’s ful in the Garment District, there is tal- rations with such schools as the Fashion and create new jobs. mother-in-law is former first daughter ent in all five boroughs. There are many Institute of Technology, Parsons The New Tricia Nixon Cox and Andrea’s father- budding designers of clothing and acces- School for Design and the High School — JOE LHOTA in-law Edward Cox is the New York sories for example in South Brooklyn, of Fashion Industries is needed, said Albanese, who taught high school for 11 years and holds a law degree. Lhota added, “We’ve lost a huge chunk “Good schools, good mass transporta- of the industry to overseas, but I believe If the garment and retail industries, and all tion and a safe city are all things that will we can bring some of those jobs back, help attract young people,” he added. particularly in the area of assemblage, industries, in our city have confidence that the Albanese, who has not accepted any which helps with on-time delivery in re- campaign donations from real estate de- tail stores all across the country. I have mayor will keep taxes down and get rid of the velopers so as not to be beholden to them, also proposed reducing taxes, including vowed to build and preserve 210,000 eliminating the tax on capital, which units of affordable housing, while creat- places a huge burden on entrepreneurs. burdensome regulations that are hurting our ing 26,000 living-wage jobs in the process. I will work closely with the industry to “We also have to keep the city safe and ensure the city’s policies·· are helping it small businesses, they will be able to hire and we need affordable housing. There are grow, not driving jobs and talent to more a lot of young bright people who can’t business-friendly cities.” grow — which will benefit all New Yorkers. afford to live here,” he said. “And we don’t just want people buying luxury con- George McDonald — JOHN CATSIMATIDIS dos, which is what we see happening in As a longtime executive at McGregor Manhattan. A lot of foreigners are buying Sportswear, McDonald once enticed luxury condos but they don’t live here.” Joe Namath to endorse the company. Republican Party chair. At 64, the may- near where I grew up in Coney Island. Now he is better known as the founder oral candidate heads up Manhattan’s We need to nurture this talent through Erick Salgado and president of the Doe Fund. “I grew largest grocery store chain, Gristedes the creation of design coworking spaces Salgado declined to participate. His Web up in the fashion industry and under- Foods, and the Red Apple Group, a real throughout the city.” site references tax incentives to encour- stand its importance as an economic estate company with about $750 mil- He added, “I will reduce capital gains age small businesses to hire more work- force in the city,” McDonald said. “As lion in holdings, and he also owns the tax for those who invest in new and grow- ers and push for legislation that prohib- mayor, I will work with the industry to Hellenic Times newspaper. Born in ing businesses, such as new design and its the proceeds from fines levied against focus on growth areas such as design Greece to a lighthouse-keeper-turned- fashion companies. Look at the success these businesses from going into the and niche manufacturing” by propping New York City busboy, Catsimatidis of Andrew Rosen investing in and men- city’s treasury. “I will also provide tax up smaller manufacturers, support- said, “I am the also only one in this race toring a range of young designers at com- incentives to bring manufacturing back ing young talent, potentially opening that feels the pain of our city’s small panies such as Rag and·· Bone, Proenza to New York City, targeting clean and a design-centered charter school and businesses — I have gotten the rent Schouler and others. emerging high-tech, bio-tech and nano- taking a more public role in New York increases, the high water bills and the “I will promote New York-based de- tech industries,” he indicated on the site. Fashion Week. punitive tickets and fines. I started out signers in showcase trips around the He “still keeps his eye on the in- as a small businessman in the retail in- world to encourage retailers to carry dustry” and as mayor “would focus on dustry and I have never forgotten where their lines. We will provide more support REPUBLICANS keeping the industry vital and growing I came from. I am going to stimulate to Parsons, FIT and other design schools in New York.” growth for all industries in New York by to ensure we have a growing talent base A spokesman for McDonald added, freezing all taxes the mayor controls on that is tech-savvy and can compete and Joe Lhota “He believes we need to assist smaller Day One,” he said. win in the global market place of fashion “New York City is one of the top fashion niche manufacturers that still can com- Catsimatidis added, “If the garment and design,” Hidary said. capitals of the world and I will ensure we pete domestically through access to and retail industries, and all industries, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM retain that title. I want to see the shows capital and development of competi- in our city have confidence that the ARTHUR FRIEDMAN 30 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013

de Dudzeele, Terry Richardson, Sky Ferreira, Lady and Vinoodh Matadin Gaga Applause, Applause and Inez van Lamsweerde could relate on some level. (Earlier in the night, WHILE entertained of hair around, writhed on the floor Gaga made a cameo at the latter the crowds at Alexander Wang, V and thanked Gan for her “beautiful pair’s apartment dinner party for magazine scored Lady Gaga at its fete at cover spread” in the magazine. Ben Gorham’s Byredo fragrance line Le Poisson Rouge — a Sophie’s Choice The crowd ate it up, although WWD wearing a dreadlock wig and what of sorts for fans of outrageously is pretty sure there was a significant appeared to be an oxygen tube.) garbed divas. Editor Stephen Gan amount of lip-synching involved. “I have 17 different product lines and the pop star glided arm-in-arm That didn’t seem to faze Jessica Alba and I’m about to release my 16th through the red-lit performance and James Franco, who were squeezed fragrance,” said Hilton of her ongoing space while the intimate venue was into the cheek-to-jowl audience and branding projects. She’s also set to still half-full. Gaga took to the stage bopping along to the music. Franco release a new single, called “Good close to 1 a.m. to the strains of an immediately posted a photo of Gaga on Time,” with Lil Wayne on Oct. 1. Édith Piaf song and launched into an his Instagram and Twitter feeds. “Gaga Transsexual nightlife icon Amanda impassioned 45-minute set of songs at fashion week — so sweet,” he wrote. Lepore, in her de rigueur skintight from her new “Art Pop” album, to “The truth is, I live for the lingerie, said she appreciated Gaga’s be released in November, including applause,” conceded Gaga in a breathy style and independence. “I don’t “Burqa” and “Applause.” Dressed monologue. No doubt attendees like like to look like I’m just going to the in only a seashell bra, Paris Hilton, Rose McGowan, Courtney Love, supermarket,” she explained—certainly bottom and glittering black ankle Daphne Guinness, Richard Chai, Jeremy Scott, one thing the two share in common.

PHOTO BY DAVID LIPKE DAVID PHOTO BY boots, Gaga threw her enormous mane Italo Zucchelli, Carine Roitfeld, Carlyne Cerf — DAVID LIPKE

pregnancy glow, motioning across the way to a photograph of Linda Evangelista from 1987. eye “Isn’t it just amazing?” Down in the Meatpacking District, Prabal Gurung’s post- show party was well under way at Bar Nana. The dark room thumped, limiting verbal exchanges to near- shouts. Clusters of scenesters populated the dark space, trails of smoke emanating from each huddle thanks to the e-cigarettes handed out at the door. Mia Moretti and Kate Foley clinked Svedka sodas in a brown leather banquette. Chelsea Leyland and Lily Kwong tore up the dance floor, shimmying to The Spice Girls’ “Wannabe.” Soon a troop of bulky security guards parted FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE the sea of flailing arms. “Nick is the hottest one,” a WWD.com/eye. Hilary partygoer determined as the Rhoda Jonas brothers passed on their Jessica Biel in Dior. in Dior. way to their tightly guarded corner booth. “Have you seen his shirtless pictures online?” season finale,” she explained. “It’s been kind of a crazy “And I swear to you, that is the busy fashion week,” Joe said, only thing that could have kept from the brothers’ table. Blanda me away from a Jason Wu show!” Eggenschwiler, his leggy model Smoke and Mirrors girlfriend, looked on. “We’ve got THE HOUSE of Dior dashed eerily quiet sixth floor, where it’s very whimsical. They look • • • about five or six shows, but it’s a French accent mark atop she met with a reporter or two. like they’re floating through, On Saturday night, the cool all pretty much our friends.” the New York Fashion Week She stood out against the men’s almost spirits or something.” crowd gathered for a viewing Just then, Ciara emerged proceedings Friday night with fare in a cream knit Dior dress. Meanwhile, down at the of ’s exhibition at from behind the DJ booth. a party heralding Raf Simons’ “We were just saying, ‘Can Electric Room, Jason Wu sat at 5A, the Upper East Side home- “Are my ladies in the house fall ready-to-wear collection we shop right now?’ We’re the center of his after party. turned-gallery of art dealer tonight?” she purred into the at Saks Fifth Avenue, and cruising through Saks at night “I just feel really happy,” he Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld. microphone. Hannah Bronfman its accompanying window and it’s as if we’re in the said, splayed on a banquette in “This is the smallest front and center howled. Before takeover. Party planners remade movie ‘Mannequin,’” she said, the VIP area, an alcove tucked exhibition I’ve ever done,” performing her hits, Ciara the midtown retailer’s third referring, of course, to the behind the blaring DJ booth. Lindbergh said of the 35 archival acknowledged the man of the floor into morass of mirrored 1987 romantic comedy starring Jessica Paré and Kerry Washington prints on display. “The others hour. “Some people call him walls and blue floors that Andrew McCarthy and Kim Cattrall. sat beside him. Washington have had like 250 images or Pray-bel. I call him Prabal,” she was occasionally confusing to Alas, the big selling point of the would have to place her order something like that. This is really told the crowd. “Anyway, I just navigate for the social potpourri Dior windows was that they had by skimming the looks online as nice. It feels so exclusive.” want to thank him for bringing on hand to celebrate. Upon no mannequins. The reboot was she missed the show. Laure Heriard Dubreuil pointed me out tonight.” arrival, Jessica Biel, the night’s on hold. “I know,” Biel laughed. “I was sequestered with out her favorite. “That one,” — TAYLOR HARRIS AND third host, was whisked up to an “I think it’s pretty cool. I think ‘Project Runway.’ I’m on the she said, beaming in her MATTHEW LYNCH BIEL AND RHODA PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHENER; WU BY LEXIE MORELAND; ALL OTHERS BY JENNA GREENE LEXIE MORELAND; ALL OTHERS BY STEVE EICHENER; WU BY BIEL AND RHODA PHOTOS BY

Jason Wu and Kerry Washington Prabal Gurung and Ciara

Joe Jonas, Blanda Eggenschwiler, Danielle Jonas, Kevin Jonas and Nick Jonas. WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2013 31 WWD.COM

green system, which they explained to MEMO PAD me like I was a five-year-old. I wanted to reach across the table, grab one of ShopGrl Targets Millennials them and throw him across the room.” MISTY WATER-COLORED MEMORIES: It’s The consultants were not pleased and Timo Weiland. Arielle, 26, has a follow- a giddy time in fashion and fashion either when press reports, like the By VICKI M. YOUNG ing through her street-style fashion blog journalism, of endless Town Car rides Observer’s, trickled out about their efforts. somethingnavy.com. Michaela, 22, curates flitting editors to and from shows, “They were bug-eyed, like white- SHOPGRL.COM IS WORKING with the bohemian look at the site. frequent costume changes, lavish gloved society women who only want to Christian Siriano on a capsule collection ShopGrl offers merchandise from other parties with even more lavish tabs, be in the paper when they get married that will be available on the site during designers as well, such as Paige Denim, when expense receipts just pile up and and when they die,” the publisher said. New York Fashion Week. Superga and Jenni Kayne. According to wait to be dealt with at a later date. It’s not clear if the anonymous The Web site, which is aimed at Danielle, the dress category on the site so Crashing the party is a sobering source still works at 4 Times Square, Millennials, launched this month and is far has the most volume in terms of orders. new book from Simon & Schuster, out and McDonald declined to elaborate the result of a collaborative process by The site is family-owned and operated. Tuesday, that recalls that unhappy to protect the source’s identity. three sisters: Danielle, Arielle and Their father, Oded Nachmani, is fund- time in 2009 when McKinsey & Co., “What I will tell you is that it Michaela Nachmani. Each one rep- ing it. He cofounded Coolwear in 1985, the efficiency consultancy, was the certainly didn’t strike me as a fleeting resents a different viewpoint on an apparel firm that manufactures most fashionable name in media. “The emotion, and you should be able to see the site, which began beta testing private label apparel, as well as Firm,” by Duff McDonald, is really a from the content of the quotes that it in February and has been tweaked product under the Coolwear label history of one of the most influential was as much about how the McKinsey and upgraded over the summer. for the juniors market. Many of companies in the country — its clients people comported themselves as For the spring collections, the offerings at ShopGrl are pro- have included everyone from the it was about the details of that ShopGrl has developed a duced in the U.S., with those government to, most scandalously, particular engagement. I’d be pretty 10-piece capsule line with under the Something Navy Enron — that challenges its reputation confident they’d say the same thing if Siriano that will be avail- label manufactured through for infallibility. McDonald, a asked about it today, whoever they are able for purchase on the Coolwear. According to contributing editor at Fortune who and wherever they may be working,” e-commerce component Oded, “At some point there has also written for Vanity Fair and McDonald said. — ERIK MAZA of the ShopGrl Web site might be a need to seek out- GQ, also sheds some more light on the starting today. Two of the side investors, but so far the transformative effect McKinsey had HEDI FOR BUSINESS: Trade shows pieces are exclusives from company is making a profit on the media companies it did work aren’t traditionally known for their Siriano’s runway show on and we are able to reinvest for, like Condé Nast and Time Inc. Its glamour quotient but MAGIC is out to Saturday, and the balance that into the company.” influence is still felt at both publishers, shift that perception, at least a little. designed by him just for While Danielle wanted where the consultants have stayed on The mammoth trade show operator ShopGrl. And while Siriano A ShopGrl tote bag. to bring a runway sensibil-

retainer to deal with recent layoffs. will launch a marketing campaign in designed multiple pieces, JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY ity to the site, Arielle’s blog- McDonald reports that although former trade publications this week using a it was Danielle and Arielle ging and her social media Time Inc. chief executive officer photo taken by Hedi Slimane. The image who made the final decision on which followers gave her the idea of “creating an Laura Lang hired rivals Bain & Co. to of an androgynous male model was ones to showcase. e-commerce site and converting her blog eliminate 6 percent of the publisher’s originally shot by the Saint Laurent “I’d like to collaborate with a differ- followers into shoppers,” he said. Arielle workforce, McKinsey was back in the designer for T: The New York Times ent designer every season. I started with has more than 98,000 followers on her building by the end of last year. Style Magazine back in 2011, for Christian because we’ve had a long work- blog, 3,744 Twitter followers and more than In 2009, McKinsey’s consultants a story titled “Boy Crazy.” MAGIC ing relationship,” Danielle said. 35,000 followers on Instagram. were the angels of death in the media acquired rights to the photo from Her plans include working with jew- “I don’t think Arielle eats breakfast industry, the mere mention of the name elry and footwear designers as well. without posting a picture,” Danielle said, an ominous sign that cutbacks were The aim of ShopGrl is to democratize high- noting that both Arielle and Michaela imminent. They spent time at Meredith fashion by adapting trends to price points that will be blogging right after the shows that Corp. and Dow Jones, and were brought are affordable for the consumer between the they are attending at fashion week. in to shave $100 million in costs at Time ages of 18 to 27. “We want our site to be acces- Oded also noted that the site now has Inc; earlier it had argued in favor of sible to everybody,” Danielle said. more than 400,000 unique visitors, up Time Warner’s merger with AOL. Danielle, the oldest at 30 and the site’s from the 250,000 it had during its beta But of all the media companies creative director, is a fashion and celebrity test, with much of that traffic generated name-checked in McDonald’s book, stylist who has the aspirational viewpoint. from the styling and blogging activities of none gets more ink than Condé, which She’s styled for celebrities such as Mary- the two older sisters. hired the firm in 2009 to help the Kate and Ashley Olsen and Ethan Hawke, With about 5,000 orders a month, he said publisher “resize itself for a new post- as well as runway shows for Mara Hoffman the basket total averages $50 an order. real estate bubble advertising climate.” At the time, ceo Charles Townsend told the New York Observer the consultants would help the company’s staffers and high-spending editors tighten their belts, even if it threatened to diminish Condé’s glitzy image. “If the most efficient way to do business is to take a Town Car, then For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. for Christ sake, I’m not going to insist people take subways and destroy their approach to business. I’m just asking The MAGIC campaign launches this week. people to be sensible,” he said at the Trunk Archive, a licensing agency that Spaces time. “I don’t want to lose the speciality specializes in the fashion, celebrity or the quirkiness, but a lot of this stuff and lifestyle arenas. ATTN: MATERNITY WEAR MFG: Experienced, reputable designer, freelance; that has been part and parcel of it MAGIC — which is the COMMERCIAL production/cost savvy. Fresh saleable, volume is just meaningless.” He concluded, market week in Las Vegas for a group of concept; can travel. Dir. Ph: (575)751-0762 or REAL ESTATE Fax: (575)758-7244 Attn: Hannah Engel referring to mini-fridges stocked with individual shows such as Project, ENK ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE expensive drinks, “You don’t need it! Vegas and WWD MAGIC — will also 30year ladies apparel company seek- ing sales rep who can broaden base You don’t need the Orangina!” introduce a stylized new logo in the special, department and chain stores. On McKinsey’s advice, Condé killed campaign, using a deconstructed font. Candidate must have 4+ years in mis- sy (junior exp a+) Please email resume four magazines that October, including “What we love about Hedi is that to [email protected] or 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes call 646-479-8828 Gourmet — the rationale was that the he represents an incredible force Menswear Showrooms storied magazine wasn’t as profitable as in fashion right now. There’s an Merchandise Mgr-Designer D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Consignment Bon Appétit; Cookie, whose Pilar Guzman incredible modernity to him with Must hv estab clients,5 yrs luxe fash- SALESPERSON is now back in the family at Condé him picking up and moving the Saint Showrooms & Lofts ion.Resume: [email protected] Fashion accessories company seeks BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS energetic and experienced salesperson Nast Traveler, and Elegant Bride and Laurent studio to California,” said Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PRODUCT MANAGER having relationships with major spe- Modern Bride. Domino was shuttered Tom Florio, chief executive officer of ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Avalanche a Salem MA based outdoor cialty chain stores & department apparel brand is looking for a product stores who can guarantee a minimum in January 2009, though it is returning Advanstar Fashion Group, parent manager / tec writer with at least 3 $500,000.00 annually. Please email Re- this year in e-commerce form. of MAGIC, which is also based in years experience in activewear / outer- sume to [email protected] wear with minor design / trim sourcing Condé management was clearly California. “We thought finding this ability, must be a team player. Please email [email protected] satisfied with the consultants’ work, but image was serendipitous and a great for more info. their advice rankled publishers and metaphor for what we’re doing.” Titan Industries Inc editors in a way that apparently still For the past two seasons, MAGIC Footwear Designer lingers. One of McDonald’s anonymous has made a concerted effort to draw fashion and causal women’s footwear divisions. Email: disgruntled sources is described as “the designer-level brands to an upscale [email protected] publisher of one of the company’s most showcase called The Tents at Project. UNITED FABRICS INT’L. INC. successful magazines.” Last month, Michael Bastian, Todd FABRIC SALESPERSON L.A. based importer of solids, novelties “How much they understood about Snyder, Bespoken, Elie Tahari, Hugo and prints seeks Sales Professionals to our business, I cannot tell you,” the Boss, Public School and Timo Weiland service New York garment manufac- turer. If you have 5 years textile sales publisher says. “How the [expletive] all had booths inside the tented experience, email resume to: can you coach a football team if you’ve trade show. “What we’ve looked to [email protected] never played football in your life? And accomplish over time is to create a I’m not even talking pro. I’m talking more inspirational place where you at any level. They don’t have a clue. I are immersed in trends. The Tents (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] don’t care how many hours they spent is as much a presentation space as a firing people at Time Inc. or Meredith place to do commerce,” said Florio. Corp. They had this stupid red/yellow/ — DAVID LIPKE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK S/S14 MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM MILAN FASHION WEEK S/S14 MACCOSMETICS.TUMBLR.COM