Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • December 17, 2009 • $3.00 WWDTHURSDAYSportswear/Men’s Trad Men “Mad Men” is still driving men’s tailored clothing, where fall 2010 exhibits the continued infl uence of Sixties design. Here, an Oxxford wool suit, worn with Thom Browne’s cotton trenchcoat and Salvatore Ferragamo’s cotton shirt. Dunhill tie bar and gloves; Gucci pocket square; Yves Saint Laurent tie; Giorgio Armani shoes. For more on the trend, see pages 6 and 7. Upheaval at Ungaro: Moufarrige Resigns, Lindsay Lohan Stays By Miles Socha PARIS — Lindsay’s in, Mounir’s out. Despite widespread speculation to the contrary — and a scathing reaction to her first effort — Lindsay Lohan is continuing on at Ungaro as the fashion house’s artistic adviser, while the man who recruited her, company president Mounir Moufarrige, has resigned, WWD has learned. Ungaro named Marie Fournier its new general manager to oversee all operations. An 18-year veteran of the company, Fournier was See Lohan, Page10 PHOTO BY MATTHEW SANDAGER; MODEL: MIKUS/RE:QUEST; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ANNA BERNABE FOR DIOR; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY LUIS ASSISTANT: ANNA BERNABE FOR DIOR; FASHION HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SANDAGER; MODEL: MIKUS/RE:QUEST; MATTHEW PHOTO BY Expand your knowledge base at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com WWD.COM WWDTHURSSportswear/Men’sDAY FASHION 6 For fall, tailored clothing manufacturers are opting for the retro Sixties look as the unifying trend, with textured tweeds, new scale herringbones and rich flannels. GENERAL 1 Mounir Moufarrige, Ungaro’s chief executive Junior Achievement officer since 2006 and the architect of a strategy that brought tabloid sensation Lindsay Lohan Teens Stay at the Head of the Class in Shopping for New Apparel into the French fashion fold, has resigned. 3 Dolce & Gabbana has unveiled images of its hough many Americans are wary of the coming While teens clearly have an appetite for fashion, upcoming spring ad campaign that features T new year given their still-straightened finances, they have had to learn how to indulge more selectively Madonna, photographed by Steven Klein. one bright spot continues to be the youngest than they have in the past. While 63% of female teen Galeries Lafayette has doubled the first floor of consumers, who are still shopping for apparel and consumers say that they are planning the same to more 10 space allocated to luxury and designer brands in demonstrating a burgeoning confidence in their own changes in their apparel purchases, 78% say that they its Boulevard Haussmann flagship in Paris. financial situations. have the same to less to spend on apparel than they did According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle a year ago. 11 BEAT: After a rough year economically, Monitor™ survey, 58% of female teens reported that The Monitor survey indicated female teens with less contemporary shoppers are out shopping, they feel somewhat to very optimistic about their money to spend on clothing have had to adapt to feed scooping up the big trends for holiday. financial future in the fourth quarter of 2009.That their style fix, relying on tried-and-true techniques 14 Merger and acquisition deals of less than $1 billion percentage is up considerably like waiting for a sale (68%), involving consumer products firms will likely hit from 42% in the second quarter We do realize the junior purchasing only necessities an eight-year low in 2009, but an uptick is seen, of 2009. “ (41%), doing more comparison according to Robert W. Baird & Co. customer moves quickly “We have seen a return of shopping (38%), buying the EYE optimism among teens, and from trend to trend. Therefore, same brands but fewer garments The ladies of “Nine” stepped out Tuesday night that may signal some positive we have to be just as quick (29%), and trading down their s 4 signs for the general economy,” former brands to get the same for the New York premiere held at the Ziegfeld Theater and, for once, Madonna wasn’t the hot- says Melissa Bastos, Manager to ensure we give her number of garments (15%), test commodity on the red carpet. of Market Research at Cotton the trends she wants. planning purchases in advance Marion Cotillard in Dior. Incorporated. She notes that this ” (13%) and buying better quality group is clearly among the most Stephen Donnelly, Kmart Women’s Apparel so their clothing will last longer Classified Advertisements................................................................................................15 trend-driven of all consumer (13%). TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS groups, and that is a key factor in fueling new apparel “Even teens have had to adopt their shopping to a [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 sales. According to Monitor data, 29% of female value proposition,” says Dr. Robert Passikoff, Founder FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. respondents aged 13 to 18 reported they spend any and President of Brand Keys, a research consultantcy VOLUME 198, NO. 126. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one leftover money at the end of the month on clothing. additional issue in January, May, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, June, August, September that specializes in customer loyalty and consumer and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance A penchant for new apparel overrides saving (23%), behavior. “But that has created a big conundrum Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé entertainment (19%) or eating out (11%) among these for retailers because they are training the youngest Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and consumers. consumers early on about getting more for less.” at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services “Kmart Juniors remains one of our most popular Apparel in the juniors market is more aggressively Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. Box areas in the women’s category,” says Stephen Donnelly, priced, according to the Cotton Incorporated Retail 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK Vice President and General Merchandising Manager, Monitor™ survey. The average price of juniors apparel ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Kmart Women’s Apparel. “We is lower than misses apparel Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected do realize the junior customer across all categories, possibly address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, How Do You Spend Leftover Money you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy moves quickly from trend to at the End of the Month? owing to the “buy one get one of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production trend. Therefore, we have to free,” or BOGO sale strategy correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other be just as quick to ensure we Buy Clothe popular at juniors retailers. Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available give her the trends she wants.” Put in Saving “BOGO, especially when it’s to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not Spend on Entertainment want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or Being agile in delivering new offered by the right brand, call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY Eat Out product and trends is key is going to look like a great OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, Don’t Know PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, to serving this consumer, Pay Off Debt deal to this consumer,” adds PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS according to Monitor data, Passikoff. SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER 30% MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. since two out of three female The right mix at retail also respondents ages 13 to 18 say 25% goes a long way in encouraging they stay on the cutting edge of apparel purchases among style, or adopt changes quickly juniors, who consistently 20% We were always in their wardrobes. show a predilection for cotton DAILY To capture the hearts, garments.