PHOTO BY MATTHEW SANDAGER; MODEL: MIKUS/RE:QUEST; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY ANNA BERNABE FOR DIOR; ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA Trad Men see pages 6and 7. tie; Giorgio Armani . For more on the trend, and gloves; Gucci square; Yves Saint Laurent Salvatore Ferragamo’s . Dunhill tie bar worn with Thom Browne’s cotton trenchcoat and of Sixties design. Here, an Oxxford , where fall 2010 exhibits the continued infl uence “Mad Men” is still driving men’s tailored , 18-year veteran of the company, Fournier was general managertooverseealloperations.An WWD haslearned. president Mounir Moufarrige, has resigned, while the man who recruited her, company Ungaro asthefashionhouse’sartisticadviser, effort — Lindsay Lohan is continuing on at —andascathingreactiontoherfirst contrary PARIS — By MilesSocha Lindsay LohanStays Moufarrige Resigns, Upheaval at Ungaro: Ungaro namedMarieFournier itsnew Despite widespreadspeculationtothe WWD Lindsay’s in, Mounir’s out. in,Mounir’s Lindsay’s Women’s Newspaper Daily •December17,2009$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily See

Lohan ,

Page Expand your Expand base knowledge at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com

10 THURSDAY Sportswear/Men’s WWD.COM

WWDThursSportswear/Men’sDay FASHION 6 For fall, tailored clothing manufacturers are opting for the retro Sixties look as the unifying trend, with textured tweeds, new scale herringbones and rich flannels. GENERAL 1 Mounir Moufarrige, Ungaro’s chief executive Junior Achievement officer since 2006 and the architect of a strategy that brought tabloid sensation Lindsay Lohan Teens Stay at the Head of the Class in Shopping for New Apparel into the French fashion fold, has resigned. 3 Dolce & Gabbana has unveiled images of its hough many Americans are wary of the coming While teens clearly have an appetite for fashion, upcoming spring ad campaign that features T new year given their still-straightened finances, they have had to learn how to indulge more selectively Madonna, photographed by Steven Klein. one bright spot continues to be the youngest than they have in the past. While 63% of female teen Galeries Lafayette has doubled the first floor of consumers, who are still shopping for apparel and consumers say that they are planning the same to more 10 space allocated to luxury and designer brands in demonstrating a burgeoning confidence in their own changes in their apparel purchases, 78% say that they its Boulevard Haussmann flagship in Paris. financial situations. have the same to less to spend on apparel than they did According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle a year ago. 11 BEAT: After a rough year economically, Monitor™ survey, 58% of female teens reported that The Monitor survey indicated female teens with less contemporary shoppers are out shopping, they feel somewhat to very optimistic about their money to spend on clothing have had to adapt to feed scooping up the big trends for holiday. financial future in the fourth quarter of 2009.That their style fix, relying on tried-and-true techniques 14 Merger and acquisition deals of less than $1 billion percentage is up considerably like waiting for a sale (68%), involving consumer products firms will likely hit from 42% in the second quarter We do realize the junior purchasing only necessities an eight-year low in 2009, but an uptick is seen, of 2009. “ (41%), doing more comparison according to Robert W. Baird & Co. customer moves quickly “We have seen a return of shopping (38%), buying the EYE optimism among teens, and from trend to trend. Therefore, same brands but fewer garments The ladies of “Nine” stepped out Tuesday night that may signal some positive we have to be just as quick (29%), and trading down their s 4 signs for the general economy,” former brands to get the same for the New York premiere held at the Ziegfeld Theater and, for once, Madonna wasn’t the hot- says Melissa Bastos, Manager to ensure we give her number of garments (15%), test commodity on the red carpet. of Market Research at Cotton the trends she wants. planning purchases in advance Marion Cotillard in Dior. Incorporated. She notes that this ” (13%) and buying better quality group is clearly among the most Stephen Donnelly, Kmart Women’s Apparel so their clothing will last longer Classified Advertisements...... 15 trend-driven of all consumer (13%). To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is groups, and that is a key factor in fueling new apparel “Even teens have had to adopt their shopping to a [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009 sales. According to Monitor data, 29% of female value proposition,” says Dr. Robert Passikoff, Founder FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoU P. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. respondents aged 13 to 18 reported they spend any and President of Brand Keys, a research consultantcy VOLUME 198, NO. 126. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one leftover money at the end of the month on clothing. additional issue in January, May, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, June, August, September that specializes in customer loyalty and consumer and November, and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance A penchant for new apparel overrides saving (23%), behavior. “But that has created a big conundrum Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé entertainment (19%) or eating out (11%) among these for retailers because they are training the youngest Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and consumers. consumers early on about getting more for less.” at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services “Kmart Juniors remains one of our most popular Apparel in the juniors market is more aggressively Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P. o. Box areas in the women’s category,” says Stephen Donnelly, priced, according to the Cotton Incorporated Retail 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK Vice President and General Merchandising Manager, Monitor™ survey. The average price of juniors apparel ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Kmart Women’s Apparel. “We is lower than misses apparel Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected do realize the junior customer across all categories, possibly address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, How Do You Spend Leftover Money you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy moves quickly from trend to at the End of the Month? owing to the “buy one get one of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production trend. Therefore, we have to free,” or BOGO sale strategy correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other be just as quick to ensure we Buy Clothes popular at juniors retailers. Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available give her the trends she wants.” Put in Savings “BOGO, especially when it’s to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not Spend on Entertainment want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or Being agile in delivering new offered by the right brand, call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY Eat Out product and trends is key is going to look like a great OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, Don’t Know PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, to serving this consumer, Pay Off Debt deal to this consumer,” adds PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS according to Monitor data, Passikoff. SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER 30% MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. since two out of three female The right mix at retail also respondents ages 13 to 18 say 25% goes a long way in encouraging they stay on the cutting edge of apparel purchases among style, or adopt changes quickly juniors, who consistently 20% We were always in their wardrobes. show a predilection for cotton DAILY To capture the hearts, garments. According to the “ 15% afraid it would ruin minds and wallets of younger Retail Monitor™, knit consumers, smart retailers like (41%) and denim (17%) QUote 10% our relationship. JC Penney are offering brands comprise the majority of with both an appealing price total products at retail in this ” 5% — Stefano Gabbana on using the designers’ friend Madonna tag and eye-catching name market segment, followed in their latest ad campaign. Page 3. recognition like Olsenboye by (8%), and MNG by Mango. “Our 0 (7%), woven shirts (6%), Females ages 13 to 18 Juniors customers have pants (6%), (5%), CORRECTION grown up with Mary-Kate and outerwear (3%), athletic The film “A Single Man” was nominated for three Golden Globe Ashley Olsen and look to them not only as authentic apparel (3%) and (2%). awards: best actor, best supporting actress and best original score. designers, but also as style icons,” says Liz Sweney, “We’ve seen that the junior customer continues This was incorrect in a story on page 3, Wednesday. Executive Vice President and General Merchandise to react well to denim and graphic tees,” adds Manager of Women’s Apparel at JCPenney. “The launch Donnelly from Kmart. “However, these items must of Olsenboye brings aspiration and sophistication have something unique, such as an extra detail, TODAY ON to our Juniors department, while underscoring our , or certain wash that make it special. We’ve commitment to continue to step up our style and also found that , in all different variations .com offer our younger customers new, fashion-forward and with added detail, are a necessary item for the WWD merchandise at affordable prices. MNG by Mango junior customer.” • More images from the brings a European runway aesthetic with mass appeal In typical fashion, new styles will soon become a Hickey Freeman and Hart to JCPenney. MNG by Mango will resonate strongly necessary item for consumers of all ages, signaling Schaffner & Marx ad campaigns with our fastest-growing customer segments, as well as an end to this difficult recession. Call it a case of • All the looks from the latest pre-fall with the younger customers,” Sweney notes. junior achievement. collections including Naeem Khan and VPL by Victoria Bartlett • More images from This article is one in a series that appears in these pages on Thursdays. The data contained is based on findings the “Nine” screening from the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, a consumer attitudinal study, as well as upon other of the company’s industrial indicators including its Retail Monitor and Supply Chain Insights analyses. A digital • Additional images from the version of this column and other relevant information can be found at CottonLifestyleMonitor.com. new store in Japan A postwar Hart Schaffner & Marx ad. • Beauty Radar: Dec. 17 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 3 WWD.COM Madonna in the spring Dolce & Gabbana American Apparel Enters Beauty With Nail Polish campaign. Fashion retailer American Apparel Huet, who has been cfo of Bristol-Myers Inc., known for its edgy advertising and colorful Squibb since March 2008, will join the Anglo- basics, has entered the beauty realm with the Dutch consumer goods giant Jan. 1. Unilever launch of an 18-shade nail polish line. last week announced that Jim Lawrence, its cur- The polishes began rolling out Wednesday and rent cfo, would leave the company at the end of will be carried exclusively at American Apparel’s the year. roughly 280 stores in 20 countries. (The retailer Huet, 40, will be proposed for election to carries a few third-party personal care brands, Unilever plc and Unilever NV’s boards at an an- such as Dr. Bronner’s Magic Liquid and Smith’s nual general meeting in May. His résumé also in- Rosebud lip balm.) cludes a stint as cfo of Royal Numico NV and as “The company, which is well known for its gar- executive director of investment banking services ments’ versatility and use of vibrant colors, felt at Goldman Sachs International. that American Apparel Nail Lacquer was a natu- “[Huet] joins Unilever at an exciting time,” ral extension of its current product offerings,” the stated Paul Polman, the company’s chief executive firm stated. officer. “His background and expertise will be im- Initially, 60,000 bottles have been produced and portant in helping us realize the growth ambitions retail for $6 each, or $15 for a three-pack. The for- we have for the future.” Madonna Joins Dolce & Gabbana mulas, which are free of dibutyl phthalate, toluene — Brid Costello For Spring Advertising Campaign By Alessandra Ilari BEAUTY BEAT and formaldehyde, include colors such as a minty Department Store Piece MILAN — Their 18-year friendship with Madonna wasn’t green hue called Office, Factory Grey and a shade enough to the fears that Stefano Gabbana and Domenico of red called Downtown LA, all of which are Of Beauty Pie Wanes Dolce had about doing something “more business-y” with the inspired by some facet of the Los Angeles- Weak economic conditions in the pop icon. based company. U.S. have caused the department “We were always afraid it would ruin our relationship,” For instance, the shade called Hassid store share of the beauty market contended Gabbana. — a dark black — is a nod to American to decline 2 percent from 2003 lev- Not anymore. As part of a flurry of activity between Apparel’s Jewish roots, the firm noted. els, according to new research by the designers and Madonna, including the filming of the “We think this nail polish captures what Kline & Co. “Celebration” video inside Metropol, the designers’ Milanese American Apparel is all about — a Made- “The decline has prompted both runway venue, she agreed to appear in the Dolce & Gabbana in-the-USA, high-quality product in a beau- marketers and retailers to actively spring campaign. tiful range of colors,” stated Marsha Brady, engage customers with purchase Steven Klein snapped the eight black-and-white, horizon- a creative director for American Apparel. incentives, loyalty programs and tal pictures in a former lay convent in uptown Manhattan. “Like our clothing, the palette is intended even direct sales,” the firm stated. They will appear in groups of two or three to better display for year-round use. It’s a painterly range of “Brands like Lancôme, Estée Lauder the reportage effect. A budget for the campaign, which breaks colors designed for long-term appeal and and Clarins have stepped up market- in February fashion titles, wasn’t available, though Gabbana creative interpretation. We put equal focus Nail polish from ing directly to customers with online described the investment as a “serious one.” on making sure the polish and the colors American Apparel. enticements like bonus gifts and free The shoot mirrors the mood of the designers’ sexy spring were both durable and beautiful.” shipping with purchase.” show, brimming with heritage Dolce & Gabbana staples and The beauty launch stands to bolster sales for Additionally, the direct sales retail channel romantic accoutrements. “The collection is very Italian, very the firm, which reported in November that third- has emerged as the fastest-growing channel Sicilian,” said Gabbana. “It’s a return to our roots with a quarter profits vaulted 78 percent as a shift toward globally, posting an 8.6 percent rise in sales, modern angle, so we asked Madonna to interpret it in a dif- the higher-margin retail operations of its business thanks to “stellar” growth in developing coun- ferent and human way. We believe that people are ready for helped offset a decline in wholesale revenues. tries, Kline noted. a new message.” In the three months ended Sept. 30, American “Savvy brands are employing a mix of com- That message has Madonna playing a housewife, albeit a Apparel posted net income of $4.2 million, or 5 plementary channels, including online sales, sensual one, carrying out her daily chores. Madonna appears cents a diluted share, up from $2.3 million, or 3 catalogues and social networking to maximize holding a broomstick, washing dishes in a bubble-filled sink, cents, in the year-ago period. Analysts anticipated their reach and target consumers in the format eating spaghetti with her fingers and chopping vegetables, sur- earnings per share of 3 cents a share. that’s most comfortable for them,” stated Karen rounded by curtains and tablecloths, dishcloths and old — Matthew W. Evans Doskow, industry manager for consumer products wooden furniture. research at Kline. For the campaign, Madonna chose a number of looks, in- Through novel approaches, such as YouTube cluding crocheted tops and dresses, floral skirts and leopard videos that show how to apply products and inter- spots, which she mismatched to her taste. Unilever Taps Huet as CFO active try-before-you-buy applications for the PC During a brainstorming session before the shoot (Gabbana and iPhone, Kline stated, brand marketers hope marveled at how well versed Madonna is on old Italian mov- LONDON — Unilever has named Jean-Marc Huet as to diversify their customer base by going direct to ies), they all agreed on Luchino Visconti’s film “Bellissima” as its chief financial officer. the consumer. an inspiration. Released in 1951, the neorealist film stars Anna Magnani and Walter Chiari. (For more on Dolce and Gabbana’s film interests, see page 4.) Christina Ricci in In one shot, Madonna even appears as a latter-day Magnani, MEMO PAD “Four Play” for gazing off-camera with tear-smoldered cheeks. “She really Donna Karan. cried, she really dipped into the part and took it very serious- COMING SOON: Christina Ricci’s next appearance ly,” gushed Gabbana. will not be on the silver screen but in a Donna Karan-friendly short called “Four Play.” Directed by Jake Sumner, the son of Sting and Trudie Styler, the flick features the actress in four different scenarios — the dreamer, the Kors Unit Opens in Bal Harbour paramour, the expressionist and the voyeur. Ricci appears primping, dancing, spying and has found a home in The Bal lounging in various stages of and undress Harbour shops. at the Soho Grand Hotel. The spot revolves Set to bow in late February, the 2,000-square-foot store was around the designer’s pleated Eldridge designed by the company’s in-house retail design team. The bag, which can be worn four different ways. Florida location will bring the company’s store tally to 52 in The Donna Karan Co. partnered with North America and 70 globally. People’s Revolution and the creative agency All Day Everyday to produce the two-minute short, which will be The Bal Harbour location will feature a full range of posted online. People’s Revolution’s Kelly Cutrone said, “For years, I have been a big believer in the idea that Michael Kors Collection products including women’s ready-to- designers need to create and control their own content so it can’t be stolen or looted as it is at fashion shows. wear and accessories. There will also be a limited selection Let’s face it: Anyone at the end of a riser can take that footage and do anything they want with it.” of Michael Michael Kors and , as well as Her company and All Day Everyday also teamed up with DKNY for another short that centers on the DKNY fragrance, eyewear, and other categories. Projected Cozy . Director Kai Regan, who has worked with Comme des Garçons, Nike and Shepard Fairey, among retail volume is $1,500 to $2,000 a square foot. others, was brought on board to try to bring this fall’s Cozy ad campaign to life. Fourteen models — wearing the The shopping center has an array of designer stores includ- Cozy in a variety of ways — marched all over the city with Regan’s camera trailing them. The Yeah Yeah Yeahs ing Chanel, , Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin, provided their “Heads Will Roll” tune for the film. One version will be used in DKNY stores and another will be Christian Dior and Bottega Veneta. uploaded on DKNY’s Facebook fan page, uploaded on YouTube and provided to bloggers. — R.F. “Ever since I was a kid growing up on trips to Miami, the Bal Harbour Shops has been one of my ultimate shopping ex- TALKS OFF: Shares in Playboy Enterprises dropped almost 10 percent to $3.46 on Wednesday following news periences,” the designer said. “Where else can you find the that Iconix Brand Group had ended talks to acquire the media company. In an effort to calm investors, Playboy mix of big-city glamour and a laid-back, relaxed resort vibe swiftly revealed that Robert Campbell would step in as interim chief financial officer as of Jan. 1, replacing at once?” Linda Havard, who already had unveiled her plans to exit the company. The news that Iconix was no longer Miami’s international shoppers were another selling point. in negotiations with Playboy was first reported by Bloomberg. A spokeswoman for Iconix and spokesman for John Idol, chief executive officer at Michael Kors, said, “Retail Playboy had no comment. — Amy Wicks has obviously been an important component for our overall growth this year, and we intend to increase the number of free- RETURN ENGAGEMENT: “Project Runway” is coming back to New York for a second season on Lifetime Television. standing stores in key global markets.” Beginning Jan. 14 at 10 p.m., judges Heidi Klum, Tim Gunn, Michael Kors and Nina Garcia will be back, with 16 — Rosemary Feitelberg new designers competing for the prize. — A.W. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 WWD.COM BE ITALIAN THE RACY AND FLOOR-SWEEPING AREN’T To the Nines the only fashionable elements of Rob Marshall’s fi lm musical THE LADIES OF “NINE” STEPPED OUT TUESDAY NIGHT FOR THE NEW YORK PREMIERE, HELD AT THE ZIEGFELD extravaganza “Nine,” opening in limited release on Friday and Theatre. And for once, Madonna wasn’t the hottest commodity on the red carpet. Instead, the frenzy surrounded Nicole nationwide on Christmas Day. Designers Domenico Dolce and Kidman, Marion Cotillard, Penélope Cruz, Kate Hudson with mom Goldie Hawn, Fergie and Dame Judi Dench — each actress Stefano Gabbana make a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it cameo early on, more decked out than the other. as a pair of actors on break from playing priests in another fi lm- During fi lming, the cast has said, the atmosphere was one big love fest, but Harvey Weinstein saw it differently: “People within-the-fi lm. Meta enough for you? ask who the biggest diva was, and I say, ‘Judi Dench was the real diva,’” the producer cracked. (Even if it were true, the It’s actually not the fi rst time the duo has taken to the big dame had a right to be cocky as one of the few in the musical with prior professional song-and-dance experience. She screen — in Giuseppe Tornatore’s 1995 “L’Uomo delle Stelle,” played Sally Bowles in a 1968 London production of “Cabaret.”) they made an appearance as Forties bus passengers. After the screening, the cast and various musical-loving socialites headed to M2 Ultralounge for an after party “Domenico was a Sicilian guy, and I was a Milanese cosponsored by Martini and Chopard. photographer,” recalls Gabbana. (According to IMDB, Dolce played a “peasant on bus.”) “At that time, we acted: I talked and Domenico, too.” They don’t speak in “Nine,” but Gabbana found plenty to chat about with WWD, from religious gear to his nascent movie star dreams. — Vanessa Lawrence

WWD: Congratulations on your cameo in “Nine.” Stefano Gabbana: Thank you [laughs]. It’s really, really a cameo.

WWD: How long were you on set? S.G.: The call time was eight o’clock in the morning, and we fi nished at four o’clock in the afternoon. The director explained everything to us; we talked about the movie. Then we take a little makeup and hair. We dressed up as priests, and we started to act. Dame Judi No, we don’t act, it’s acting, but you know….[In the scene] Daniel Dench in Day-Lewis walks from one studio to the other one. He walks in Donna Karan. front of us, and I talk with Domenico and I drink the coffee. Daniel Day-Lewis WWD: It’s not too different from a fashion show: You spend so much time preparing and then it’s only 15 minutes long. Kate Hudson in Chanel S.G.: Yes, it’s the same. We work, work, work a lot for just 15 with minutes. The image for a movie: for fi ve seconds, we repeat the Goldie Hawn in Dior. same thing for three hours. Marion Cotillard in Dior. For more, see WWD.com.

[Daniel Day-Lewis] walks in front of“ us, and I talk with Domenico and

Fergie in I drink the coffee. Marchesa. — Stefano Gabbana,” describing his cameo Nicole Kidman in with Domenico Dolce in “Nine,” shown above. Prada. Penélope Cruz Madonna with in vintage Lourdes Leon, WWD: Has Fellini inspired any specifi c collections for you? S.G.: He’s one of the most creative directors. We took inspiration for

Chanel Haute both in Dolce STEPHANE FEUGERE Couture. & Gabbana. two fashion shows. One [fall 1996] was from “Le Notti di Cabiria.” It was the printed chiffon dresses with the cherries. And another [fall 1997], we took inspiration from “Satyricon” [and “Roma”]. We make a collection like a priest, all the girls in priest dress [laughs].

WWD: You often use religious iconography in your designs: What was it like to be dressed as priests? S.G.: It was really strange for us, because we are Italian. “Nine” ALL OTHERS BY WEINSTEIN CO.; is about Fellini’s “8½.” The priest is a very bourgeois [fi gure] for Fellini. And us, we talk about religion in our collections and it’s a strange connection. But it was nice — it was a perfect cameo. JAMES/THE EYE SCOOP WWD: Do you have a fi lm career in your future? Are you going to Coco Chanel’s life is being brought to the big screen again, in the fi lm “Coco Chanel & Igor do more? Stravinsky,” opening in France Dec. 30. This time Anna Mouglalis takes on the role of the iconic S.G.: Many people ask us to do little parts in movies, and it depends designer, who, though innovative, was considered to be diffi cult and tyrannical. “Playing a on the time. Domenico is not so comfortable because he’s really shy, complex character who is not only the symbol of French elegance but also a bit masculine was but I love it. My dream when I was young was to become a movie jubilant for me,” said Mouglalis at a premiere party for the fi lm held at the Chanel fi ne jewelry Samuel BenchetritBenchetrit withwith actor. I never studied acting, but I did a TV program fi ve years ago. I boutique on the Place Vendôme Tuesday night. Set in the years from 1913 to the early Twenties, Anna MouglalisMouglalis inin Chanel.Chanel. was a guest many times on TV, and I have my program on the radio the romantic drama casts its two title characters as revolutionaries, focusing particularly on [for the popular Radio DJ Italia]. And I do many advertisements on Stravinsky’s creative torment in composing “Le Sacre du Printemps” (“The Rite of Spring”) TV: for cars, for ice cream [Cornetto Algida]. The last three years, and Chanel’s role as his patron and lover. “Chanel was a resistante in that she considered that I’ve made three commercials for [car company] Lancia. women are never just a sexual object — and I participate in that resistance,” Mouglalis added. Up next, the actress will start fi lming “Chez Gino,” an Italian Mafi a comedy/ WWD: So you already have a dual career. mockumentary by her partner, director Samuel Benchetrit. S.G.: No, no. My career is fashion designer. If you want to make Elsewhere at the fete, Kristin Scott Thomas discussed the projects she has in the works: something really well, you need to spend a lot of time. I don’t the John Lennon biopic “Nowhere Boy,” directed by Sam Taylor Wood; Lola Doillon’s “Contre have a lot of time to make movies or act. I would love [to], but it Toi;” “Bel Ami,” based on the Guy de Maupassant novel and costarring Uma Thurman and Kristin Scott Thomas depends. Maybe a famous movie director [will] offer me a really

Robert Pattinson, and the fi lm version of “The Woman in the Fifth” by Douglas Kennedy. DAVID STEVE EICHNER; “NINE” STILL BY “NINE” PREMIERE PHOTOS BY big part. You never know.

6 WWD, thursday, december 17, 2009

Retro PHOTOS BY MATTHEW SANDAGER

GrFor fall 2010,ade tailored clothing manufacturers are opting for the retro Sixties look as the unifying trend. The American vintage suit is updated with textured tweeds, new scale herringbones and rich flannels. These lofty fabrics are also ready-made for sport , which will be a key component to next season’s look. — Alex Badia

Left: Boss Black’s wool suit and Thomas Pink’s cotton shirt. Yves Saint Laurent tie; Tiffany & Co. tie bar; Salvatore Ferragamo gloves; Louis Vuitton ; Dolce & Gabbana portfolio; Giorgio Armani shoes. Right: Billy Reid’s wool three-piece suit and Thomas Pink’s cotton shirt. Trussardi tie; Tiffany & Co. tie bar; Thomas Pink gloves; Louis Vuitton briefcase; Giorgio Armani shoes. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 7 WWD.COM

DKNY’s cotton and wool suit and Thomas Pink’s cotton shirt. Billy Reid tie; Dunhill tie bar and gloves; Brunello Cucinelli ; Asprey .

John Varvatos’ wool suit and Billy Reid’s cotton shirt. Louis Vuitton tie; Dolce & Gabbana tie bar.

Left: Kenneth Cole’s wool suit, Thomas Pink’s wool and Dior Homme’s cotton shirt. Joseph Abboud tie; Louis Vuitton scarf; Modo sunglasses. Right: ’s wool suit, Armani Collezioni’s CAMPUZANO LUIS ASSISTANT: ANNA BERNABE FOR DIOR; FASHION HAIR AND MAKEUP BY wool coat and Gucci’s cotton shirt. Louis Vuitton tie; Dunhill tie bar; Giorgio Armani sunglasses.

Arnold Brant’s wool , Joseph Abboud’s wool pants and Brunello Cucinelli’s cotton shirt. Dunhill gloves; Randa tie. MODELS: BEN FREELAND/CLICK AND MIKUS/RE:QUEST; 8 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 WWD.COM Men’s Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra in 1961. HMX Looks to the Past for Inspiration By Brenner Thomas HMX Group is tackling its future by looking to its past. The company, which was sold out of bankruptcy to Emerisque Brands and SKNL North America in June, is assembling an archive that will hold 100 years worth of ad- vertisements, marketing materials and company documents in what sources said is a bid to leverage the company’s history for new branding and marketing packages. The archive includes 2,000 pieces, most of which are related to the company’s most significant brands — Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx. HMX is mum about specific plans for the archive, but the company has ordered its two new advertising firms — Lipman is heading up the Hickey Freeman account, Quaker City is working on Hart Schaffner Marx — to dip into the company’s ample vault of images, typefaces and tag lines. The move to catalogue the company’s visual history comes as HMX continues to reorganize. Since the acquisition, the company’s new owners and executives have hunkered down to formulate a strategy that both burnishes the image of its venerable but dusty brands and returns the company to profitability. The archive project was mandated by executives from Emerisque, who, when touring HMX’s former headquarters in Chicago, noticed the original paintings and MIRRORPIX BY illustrations from Hart Schaffner & Marx advertisements hanging on the wall. According to a company spokesperson, they ordered a full accounting of those pieces in addition to materials from Hickey Freeman, many of which were getting moldy in the basement of the brand’s factory in Rochester, N.Y. HMX Group chief executive officer Doug Williams declined to comment on Q the archive project, as did Lipman, but WWD got a preview. PHOTOS AND MARTIN Most impressive were the original paintings and illustrations used in advertise- ments for the brands. Beginning in the teens and running through the late Fifties SASSOON — when photography began to replace illustration in fashion advertising — the A paintings track not only Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner’s rise to prominence, in particular, you saw the democratization of but the history of men’s wear and marketing in the first half of the century, too. men’s wear and the rise of cinematic style The ads from the teens and Twenties show glamorous aristocrats striking ide- Eric Musgrave icons. Any major changes, though, have usually alized poses. One Hickey Freeman ad from 1917 depicts a suave couple in formal Journalist Eric Musgrave has been come over as simply eccentric — and they attire perched over a moonlit harbor, a scene that reeks of Gatsby-esque soigné. working in fashion for 30 years, and has just haven’t lasted. Take The Beatles’ -less In the post-World War II period, Hart Schaffner & Marx adopted a penned his first book, “Sharp ” (Pavilion), Pierre Cardin-inspired suits from 1962. By the Rockwellian populism in its advertising, where suits were the for hand- which comes out in the U.S. early next year. time the group traveled to America to appear some, smiling men in pre-Baby Boom flirt mode. In these ads, there is almost The coffee-table book — Richard James has on “The Ed Sullivan Show” two years later, always a pretty woman smiling back. written the foreword — is less a history than they were wearing more conventional — what I Embedded in the archive are historical footnotes such as ads that appealed to a celebration of men’s tailoring over the past like to call Blues Brothers — suits. Jean Paul returning soldiers to pick up a new suit, or the appearance of car coats in the Fifties 150 years, from the moment posh British men Gaultier’s extreme play with proportions in the that heralded the rise of the automobile and the related demise of the topcoat. swapped their frock coats and morning dresses early Eighties — the wraparound The eventual confluence of men’s wear and popular culture is marked as for lounge suits to designers’ current obsession and long, wrapped trouser leg — now looks well. In the Sixties, Rock Hudson appeared in an ad for Hart Schaffner & Marx. with suiting celebrities. hopelessly dated. In the following decade, Bob Hope and Johnny Carson plugged their own lines “The suit itself has changed little over that of tailored clothing, which were made by Hartmarx, indicating the increased period; the basic single-breasted has such WWD: What was your least favorite time in men’s coziness between entertainment and fashion. an excellent design, it doesn’t really need to tailoring? From the elegant ads that ran in The Saturday Evening Post at the beginning change,” said the bespectacled Musgrave, who E.M.: I think one of the least interesting times of the century to ones in the Seventies that hawked suits in the pages launched the men’s title FHM in the Eighties was the black, pared-down, minimal period of of The New Yorker, the archive tells the story of the American tailored clothing and is the former editorial director of , Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Prada. It was all industry — both its rise and decline. Britain’s fashion business weekly. Earlier this very underwhelming, and started with “Reservoir month, Musgrave was named director general Dogs,” and continued with “Pulp Fiction” and designate of the U.K. Fashion and “Men in Black.” You won’t see many black suits Original art from Association, UKFT. Over a glass of white wine at in this book — with the exception of Tom Ford a Gatsby-era ad the Union Club in London’s Soho, he talks about — because they are boring to look at and hard for Hickey princes, pop stars and tailoring’s pinups. to photograph. Freeman. — Samantha Conti WWD: Which individuals have had the greatest WWD: What have been the major changes in impact on men’s tailoring? men’s tailoring since the 1860s, when Edward, E.M.: King Edward VII, who made the reputation Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) began of Savile Row; the Duke of Windsor, who dressing down and favoring softer, more became an international pinup boy for men’s comfortable suits over stiff formalwear? wear with his very big wardrobe and his E.M.: The big change was that fabric got enjoyment of clothes, and Cary Grant, whose lighter. Other changes came after World War I philosophy was, ‘Buy a good suit and it will last and World War II. In the Twenties and Thirties you 30 years.’ He was trim and tanned, and believed in keeping things simple.

Vidal Sassoon WWD: Who is having the most influence right now? in 1968. E.M.: Celebrities. They have overtaken designers as influencers, which is why designers want to dress them. I put together a timeline at the back s Art for a Hart Schaffner & Marx ad of the book where I chose one photograph for that ran in 1950. each decade. I started with Charles Dalmores, the French opera tenor, who’s wearing a lounge suit, and ended with Christiano Ronaldo wearing a suit by the Savile Row William Hunt as he picks up his FIFA World Player of the Year Paul Smith Opens Store at CityCenter award in 2009.

Paul Smith has opened his first Las Vegas store at the WWD: Is there any celebrity in particular who is Crystals, the retail anchor of the $8.5 billion CityCenter megadevelopment your suit hero? opening today. E.M.: Bryan Ferry was a possible contender, The 3,000-square-foot store, with its Mondrian-esque color block facade and but just try and find a picture of him actually original art and antiques, is the designer’s fifth shop in the U.S. and stocks the wearing one. In the end, I chose David Bowie: full range of men’s and women’s wear and accessories. He’s been a suit guy his entire career. He’s Smith said he’s particularly proud of the original works that are for sale, includ- taken the suit and played with its proportions. ing black-and-white photographs by Willy Rizzo and an image — made with Rubik’s He’s been influenced by jazz, and I’m sure he’s Cubes — of Keith Richards and Mick Jagger by the 40-year-old street artist Invader. dressing himself a lot of the time. “I think the store stands out in Las Vegas because it’s all about the real, the special and the individual,” said Smith during an interview at his headquarters here. “Vegas WWD: What’s the future of the suit? is a city that is very themed, and I really wanted to do this store on my own terms.” E.M.: I feel there is going to be a significant The store is laid out as a series of rooms, and Smith has mixed his branded suit-wearing group — young guys who take an merchandise with Sixties French and American furniture, vintage guitars and interest in how suits are made and how they can even a nod to the local atmosphere with casino-themed and tin trays. make individual statements, improve the fit or Smith admitted business in the U.S. has been tough this year, but added the com- personalize their tailoring. I think we’re going pany is “doing quite well.” Sales worldwide, he said, are up 9 percent year-on-year. For more, see WWD.com. to see a lot more personal and discretionary — S.C. choices among men who wear suits.

10 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 WWD.COM

Looks from Ungaro’s Aquilano.Rimondi Signs spring Knitwear License Deal collection. By Luisa Zargani MILAN — The Aquilano.Rimondi brand has signed its first license: a five-year deal with Gilmar for the worldwide production and distribution of a knitwear line. The collection will bow for fall. The label was formerly known as 6267 and is designed by Gianfranco Ferré’s cre- ative directors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. They launched their own collection in 2004 as 6267, but last year changed the name of the brand to their surnames. The knitwear collection will be shown and sold along with the label’s ready-to-wear, and will have a runway presenta- tion during Milan Fashion Week in February. i annon gi i ann v o gi y s b o t ho p RUNWAY LOAHN, Lohan Staying On, Moufarrige Moving On at Ungaro Continued from page one will be very, very big.” previously Ungaro’s vice president in Lindsay He was right about the noise. His charge of business development and li- Lohan exit comes only a few months after censing. Before that, she had an eight- Lohan and Archs showed a spring col- year career at Christian Dior. lection during Paris Fashion Week that In a brief statement, Ungaro said set off a cacophony of reactions from Moufarrige, who has served as presi- critics and retail buyers that ranged dent since 2006, would continue to ad- from “very Los Angeles” to “cheesy” vise the company as a member of its to “truly, deeply horrible.” There had strategic committee, but that he was been numerous reports Abdullah was “withdrawing” from an operational thinking of getting rid of Lohan as a Tommaso Aquilano andand RobertoRoberto RimondiRimondi role to devote more time to his other result of the negative reaction, none of businesses, which include U-Boat and which appear to be true at this stage. “We are excited and proud to have this new growth op- Welder, two fast-growing Italian watch At Ungaro, Lohan and Archs suc- portunity for Aquilano.Rimondi, especially because the companies. ceeded Bogotá, Colombia-born Esteban collaboration with Gilmar — which we have always con- “It’s my decision. It’s not a total de- Cortazar, whose three collections for sidered one of Italy’s leading knitwear companies — will parture, except for operational duties,” the house failed to ignite much com- ensure top-notch quality for this new project of ours,” Moufarrige told WWD exclusively. mercial or press interest in the brand. said the designers. He waved off suggestions of discord Peter Dundas, who is now the de- Aquilano and Rimondi have experience in knitwear with Ungaro’s majority owner, Asim signer at Emilio Pucci; Vincent Darré, following their stint as creative directors of Malo from Abdullah, and noted his decision “has now devoted to a signature furniture 2006 to 2008, during which time they added a contempo- nothing to do with Lindsay Lohan at line, and Giambattista Valli, pursuing rary and edgier spin to the cashmere brand. Aquilano. all.…The strategy is set for Ungaro and a signature label with Italy’s Mariella Rimondi is available at around 120 points of sale glob- that’s it.” Burani Fashion Group, came before ally, including, in the U.S., Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Abdullah, a high-tech entrepreneur Cortazar as Ungaro designers follow- Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. who acquired Ungaro in 2005 from ing the retirement of its founding cou- Gilmar, founded in 1974 by Giuliana Marchini Gerani, Salvatore Ferragamo, declined to com- turier in 2004. produces the Iceberg luxury sportswear brand with a ment Wednesday. Moufarrige is known for making focus on knitwear. Moufarrige tapped Lohan as artis- unexpected decisions, most famously “Gilmar has always believed and invested in the suc- tic adviser in September in a risky bid for choosing Stella McCartney, then cess of new talents, devoting its industrial expertise to the to jump-start rejuvenation at a house 25, to succeed Karl Lagerfeld as head backing of innovative projects,” said Gilmar chief execu- wracked by a revolving door of de- designer of Chloé in 1997. He had a tive officer Paolo Gerani. “Aquilano.Rimondi is an exam- signers and lackluster collections. He long career at Chloé parent Compagnie ple of Italian excellence. We are proud to embark on this teamed her with Spanish-born design- Financière Richemont, including stints prestigious and stimulating professional partnership.” er Estrella Archs. at Dunhill and Montblanc. Gilmar will end the year with revenues of 110 million “Odds are it could work,” Moufarrige On Wednesday, he suggested he was euros, or $162.8 million at current exchange. said in these columns in September. “I eyeing additional business opportuni- think the noise level around Lindsay Mounir Moufarrige ties in watches and jewelry. Galeries Lafayette Unveils New Designer Paris Space LVMH, New Balance Settle Sneaker Suit PARIS — Times may be tough, but Galeries Lafayette By Matthew Lynch city of Boston. The company al- Balance,” lawyers for the sneaker hopes the tough are going shopping for luxury items. leged the Louis Vuitton Minstrel firm wrote. The French department store chain has doubled the LVMH MoEt Hennessy Louis sneaker design bore too close a re- On Wednesday, Michael first floor space allocated to luxury and designer brands Vuitton said Wednesday it had semblance to its own 574 model, a Pantalony, LVMH’s North in its Boulevard Haussmann flagship here. discontinued a sneaker design simple all-gray trainer it has sold American director of civil en- The upscale drive comes soon after neighboring store at the center of a trademark in- since the mid-Nineties. forcement, called the resolution Printemps this fall completed a major refurbishment in a fringement lawsuit brought this The suit created something of amicable, while his counterpart at move designed to reposition itself as an upmarket shop- year by New Balance Athletic a role reversal for LVMH, which New Balance said both firms might ping destination. Inc. is typically on the offensive end work together to address trade- Galeries Lafayette’s new 16,145-square-foot space (for- In a joint statement, the two of trademark and copyright dis- mark issues in the future. merly the shoe department, which was relocated to the companies said the suit had putes. In fact, in court papers Ed Haddad, vice president of basement level) showcases luxury and designer labels, been dismissed. Representatives New Balance cited the luxury intellectual property for New including Stella McCartney, Nina Ricci, Isabel Marant, for both LVMH and New Balance brand’s high profile as a particu- Balance, said, “Based on our ex- Diane von Furstenberg and Vivienne Westwood. Helmut said they would not comment lar concern. perience in resolving this issue Lang, Acne and accessories by Martin Margiela round out beyond the statement, which “Louis Vuitton’s superior mar- and understanding what we both the upscale mix. made no mention of a financial keting ability and fame is likely share in protecting intellectual Meanwhile, a premium jeans section as well as a settlement. to lead to reverse confusion be- property, we now hope to ex- space devoted to ethical fashion, with brands such as Nu, New Balance filed its trade- cause some relevant consumers plore joining forces with Louis Valentine Gauthier and Les Fées de Bengale, will also mark complaint in September will come to associate the 574 de- Vuitton in certain anticounter- claim a corner of the revamped space. in U.S. District Court in its home sign with Louis Vuitton, not New feiting initiatives.” — Emilie Marsh WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 11 WWD.COM The Beat Holiday Cheer After a rough year economically, contemporary shoppers are clearly ending 2009 by scooping up the big trends for holiday — from little black sexy dresses and striped cashmere sweaters, to skirts with sparkle and for a week at the beach. — Julee Kaplan and Anne Riley-Katz

Bloomingdale’s Madison Letarte’s Where: 40 locations nationwide. Where: Los Angeles and madisonlosangeles.com is a Best-selling items: Aqua’s sequin tank dress and Theory’s cash- Best-selling item: Fiorentini & Baker’s motorcycle . bestseller mere sweaters. Retail price: $595 range at Olive & Retail prices: $168 for the dress and $215 for the sweaters. The appeal: “They’re just great-looking boots, comfortable yet Bette’s. The appeal: “Aqua’s sequin tank dress gives new meaning to the sexy and wearable for day or night,” said Madison owner words ‘sparkle and shine.’ Sequins are a big Mark Goldstein. “Definitely a worthwhile investment.” trend this season, and this dress can transition from a work day look with a , opaque and booties to evening chic,” Olive & Bette’s said Richard Mast, senior vice president Where: Four Manhattan locations. and general manager of Bloomingdale’s Best-selling items: Letarte’s starfish bikini and Spring Street’s 59th Street. “Exclusively crafted for cocktail ring. Bloomingdale’s, Theory’s chic bodice- Retail prices: Bikini top $92; bottom $92, and $54 for the ring. skimming turtleneck is perfect paired with The appeal: “Letarte has a loyal following. The suits are super- dark denims, knee-high boots and gleam- cute, and they fit. December is Olive & Bette’s best-selling ing gold accents.” month for swimwear,” said store owner Stacey Pecor. “As for the ring, it’s the perfect storm of a great holiday find: a spar- kly cocktail ring that looks like a million bucks.” Saks Fifth Avenue

Where: 53 locations nationwide. t Best-selling items: Tibi’s exclusive one- Fiorentini She Boutique shoulder rosette dress in black and & Baker Where: Highland Park, Ill., and shopsheboutique.com Twisted Heart’s exclusive striped boots at Best-selling item: Wink’s Daria . sweaters. Madison. Retail price: $396 Retail prices: $398 for the dress; The appeal: “This piece is easy, festive and not your standard cock- $158 to $178 for the sweaters. Aqua’s sequin tail dress,” said Nicolette Prpa, owner of She Boutique and shop- The appeal: “[The Tibi dress] tank dress at sheboutique.com. “The volume in this constantly changes is the perfect Little Black Bloomingdale’s. its shape and silhouette, and the back ruffle is simply gorgeous.” Dress for the holiday season. The one-shoulder silhouette is one of our best-selling trends Diane Merrick and will continue to be important Where: Los Angeles going into spring 2010,” said Colleen Best-selling item: Diane Merrick’s faux leather Sherin, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. bomber jacket, perforated, with and knit “The Twisted Heart sweaters are exclusively . ours, and are excellent value at under $200 re- Retail price: $120 tail. A great gift item. We feel strongly about The appeal: “It’s a lot of style for the buck and stripes — this trend will also carry for- just an incredible value. It’s also a very cur- ward well into the spring 2010 sea- rent look that can be worn with almost any- son.” thing,” Merrick said.

Intermix Fix Where: 24 locations nationwide. Where: Chicago Best-selling items: Gryphon’s sequin Best-selling item: Fleece-lined footed and Elizabeth and James’ tights by Plush. bandage dress in black. Retail price: $33 Retail prices: $340 for the skirt and The appeal: “The tights are fleece-lined $353 for the dress. and footed; they’re great for our cold The appeal: “The sequins are great Chicago winter,” said Jenny Gelber, for holiday parties; the skirt can co-owner of Fix. “They come in two be dressed up or worn with a casu- sizes: small/medium and medium/tall, al top and flat boots — so it is ver- which makes it easy for gift giving. satile to one’s unique style,” said Plus, the great price point makes them

Sari Sloane, vice president and fashion t A Tibi dress a no-brainer stuffer.” director at Intermix. “The dress has a exclusive to Saks great fit and can go from day to evening Fifth Avenue. by piling on bold statement jewelry and Aura great heels.” Where: Los Angeles

t Elizabeth and Best-selling item: Isabel Marant’s boots James’ at in all styles. Shopbop.com Holt Renfrew. Retail prices: $700 to $1,400 Where: The Web The appeal: “We just can’t keep them Best-selling item: Elizabeth and James’ Luna in stock — the flat suede and studded dress. ankle in particular. Marant has a crazy Retail price: $375 cult following right now; there was a lot of The appeal: “The dress by Elizabeth and James appeals to a hype about the boots. They’re supersexy, broad audience. Its low back provides a sexy element, and the but the low heel makes them very wear- long is perfect for girls who want to cover their arms,” able all day for work and to the club,” said said Kate Ciepluch, fashion director at Shopbop.com. “It’s high Sarah Scott, manager at Aura. fashion but easy to wear and a great investment because of its classic elements.” Jill Roberts Where: Los Angeles Holt Renfrew Best-selling items: Seaton’s cashmere wraps and Where: Nine locations throughout Canada. Seaton’s nude cotton lace beach cover-up. Best-selling items: T Alexander Wang’s T-shirts and Elizabeth and Retail price: $198 for the cover-up; $358 for James’ James blazer. the cashmere . Retail prices: $95 to $110 for the T-shirts and $495 for the blazer. The appeal: “We do a really good resort busi- The appeal: “T Alexander Wang T-shirts have become must-have Shopbop.com’s ness, and for people traveling to warm cli- items in every contemporary wardrobe,” said Tatiana Shanina, Elizabeth and mates in the winter months, those are easy, a contemporary buyer at Holt Renfrew. “This jacket has a per- James dress is must-haves that they come in for,” Roberts fect fit. It is classic and with the three-quarter ruched sleeve, it a holiday hit. said. “The cashmere wrap is a travel blanket has a bit of an edge.” and a sweater in one.” 12 WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 WWD.COM

FASHION SCOOPS Laura, helped warm up the crowd. Eager to advance their Dress Barn Ups Guidance, respective businesses, Sophie Thelleat, Jeffrey Monteiro THE NEXT WAVE: Always searching for new talent, and Carlos Campos planned to maximize their work days the Council of Fashion Designers of America named by staying in New York over the holidays. Renato Cavero, Outlines Plans for Brands student Gohar Rajabzadeh as the winner of the 2010 Liz Loris Diran, Alexander Wang’s fabric coordinator Sara Claiborne Fashion Scholarship Award. Rajabzadeh, a Hays, and Ellen Tracey’s Iun Lee were also at the table. By David Moin senior at Miami International University of Art & Design, As the winner of this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, will win $25,000 as part of the merit-based award, Theallet is keen to start gleaning tips from her mentor DRESS BARN INC. ON WEDNESDAY RAISED ITS GUIDANCE which was founded by Art Ortenberg, the husband and Oscar de la Renta. But Piana is hopeful he will manage to for fiscal 2010 profits by 15 cents and said it has been buoyed by business partner of the late Liz Claiborne. Rajabzadeh steal Theallet away from her design studio next year for a consumers trading down from other retailers and better-than-expect- also won the Cool vs. Cruel competition by The Humane spell. “All you’re missing is a plane ticket to Milan,” he ed performances at its Dress Barn, Maurices and Justice divisions. Society of the United States last year. told her. “All three are value priced. They are not focused on premier or down-and-dirty budget prices,” David Jaffe, president and chief TEEING UP ELIN: Nike is standing by the beleaguered DEPECHE MODEL: Hublot continues its string of executive offi cer, said at the $2.5 billion company’s investor meet- Tiger Woods, but Tretorn is said to be courting his collaborations via a partnership with electronic band ing in New York. wife, Elin Nordegren, for an endorsement deal. The Depeche Mode. The watchmaker is partnering with the “There’s been a trade-down effect,” Jaffe said, surmising blonde Swede has had preliminary talks with Tretorn, rock stars to create 12 special edition Depeche Mode some consumers have shifted their dollars to the divisions of according to a source familiar with the negotiations. The Big Bang watches. The one-offs, which will feature one Dress Barn Inc., and away from Talbots and Ann Taylor, among Stockholm-born Nordegren would appear to be well- of the band’s album covers on its dial, will be auctioned other retailers. suited for Tretorn, a Swedish label with a strong overseas via the Web on Feb. 1, and all proceeds from the sale “Justice will be accretive to earnings for fi scal 2010. We origi- presence. Tretorn executives did not respond to requests will be donated to the Teenage Cancer Trust, which aids nally expected accretion in the second full year” after the merger, for comments Wednesday. adolescents with cancer. The collaboration is associated said Armand Correia, DBI’s executive vice president and chief with a benefi t concert Depeche Mode will play in London fi nancial offi cer. on Feb. 17 for the same charity. The company raised its diluted earnings per share guidance for the fi scal year ending July 31 to $1.35 to $1.45, compared with THINK PINK: Having been linked to The Plaza for nearly previous guidance of $1.20 to $1.30. On the news, shares of Dress 55 years, the mischievous children’s book character Barn in Nasdaq trading Wednesday closed up 81 cents, or 3.7 per- “Eloise” now has a store there to call her own. Decorated cent, at $22.51. in her signature pink with a rug imprinted with lines from Kay Thompson’s legendary tale, the 2,100-square- foot space is perfectly appointed with an array of Eloise memorabilia. (Fashion types know that Tommy Hilfi ger now lives on the hotel’s “room on the tippy-top fl oor.”) After meeting Eloise illustrator Hilary Knight on opening day not long ago — who just happened to be there scoping the place out — six-year-old Grace Johnston was determined to check in again to see if the store’s Rinko Kikuchi namesake had arrived. “Do you know when her days off and Spike Jonze are?” Johnston asked the concierge behind the store’s front desk. No such luck — but like other opening day YUKIE KASUGA PHOTO BY visitors, she settled for a few keepsakes — a $20 pink WILD TIMES: Director Spike Jonze and Opening Ceremony Eloise T-shirt, a $85 Eloise doll by Madame Alexander co-owner Humberto Leon are in Tokyo this week promoting and an Eloise book. Lore has it Thompson’s goddaughter the launch of their fashion collaboration for Jonze’s Liza Minnelli — who at one point lived at The Plaza movie “Where the Wild Things Are.” On Tuesday, the pair with her mother, Judy Garland — or Thompson herself hosted a screening of the fi lm, followed by an after party was the inspiration for the rambunctious icon. But at hip nightclub Le Baron de Paris, which attracted the plenty of others, including some New York women who likes of actress Rinko Kikuchi. Guests at the party donned have strolled in off the street have insisted they are masks of the fi lm’s characters as they let loose on the the source, according to Kristin Franzese, The Plaza’s dance fl oor. The next day, Jonze signed autographs and executive vice president of retail. Fans will be able fi elded questions from fans at Opening Ceremony’s Tokyo to host tea parties, play dress up and listen to story Dress Barn acquired the $950 million Justice tween chain through a merger store. “Japan is a really fun place, and launching the hours in the months ahead, or take etiquette classes, that was completed last month. collection here feels very natural,” Leon said. “Japan is if need be. As for Johnston, who was headed back to so accepting of fun merchandise that it feels right.” Seattle, she left a handwritten note with the concierge. Dress Barn acquired the $950 million Justice tween chain Apparently, Eloise isn’t good about e-mail. through a merger with Tween Brands Inc. that was completed last DINING WITH DENNIS: Dennis Basso whipped up his month. The Tween Brands deal brings Dress Barn to a younger family’s favorite Christmas Eve recipe for shrimp scampi demographic, 7- to 14-year-old girls, compared with women ages on “The Martha Stewart Show” Wednesday morning. 17 to 34 targeted by Maurices and the 34- to 54-year-old women Later in the day, 60 guests at his holiday luncheon were targeted by Dress Barn. The company does not sell men’s wear, also treated to the entrée. Doubles did the honors for the though the Maurices division did until two years ago, when the latter. Aside from getting a tasting of Basso’s no-longer- category was replaced by large sizes for women. secret family recipe, Pamela Fiori, Marjorie Gubelmann, “As far as another live, breathing acquisition, at this point, I Gigi Mortimer, Jaime Gregory, Nina Griscom, Daisy de would say absolutely not,” said Jaffe. Kanavos and other diners heard about the designer’s Justice will remain an independently run operation based in latest creations: Penélope Cruz and Nicole Kidman wear New Albany, Ohio, and headed by Michael Rayden, ceo. However, his furs in the new movie “Nine.” by putting Justice under the DBI , there will be $5 mil- lion in annual overhead savings, and other savings and synergies FAMILY STYLE: Pierluigi Loro Piana and the Italian Trade through greater negotiating leverage with landlords and by uti- Commission’s Aniello Musella rounded up a group of lizing Justice’s direct sourcing offi ces to eliminate middle men. young designers Tuesday night for a dinner at Casa Lever Dress Barn and Maurices primarily source through agents. to celebrate Italian-made and to encourage The new Eloise store at The Plaza.

Executives said Justice, Dress Barn and Maurices each could them to attend next year’s Milano Unica. Piana’s wife, ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTO BY be 1,000-unit chains. Justice has 906 units, Dress Barn operates 846, while Maurices has 741. Other growth plans cited include: • The Dress Barn division will launch e-commerce next fall. Safi lo Shareholders OK Capital Increase • The Dress Barn division’s exclusive Jones Studio collection will roll out in the spring to all stores in both regular and large By Gordon Sorlini 20 million euros, or $29 million. Safi lo’s U.S. unit, sizes. Jones Studio emphasizes suit separates and is created by Solstice, is excluded from the deal. Including the Jones Apparel Group Inc. The collection occupies roughly 5 per- MILAN — Shareholders of Safilo SpA have ap- retail units sale, Safi lo will raise up to 283 million cent of the fl oor space in the stores and includes , priced proved a capital increase of up to 263 million euros, or $412 million. at $79.99 to $99.99; pants, $49.99 to $59.99, and knit layering pieces euros, or $382.9 million at current exchange, which Upon completion of the approved recapitaliza- and , $29.99 to $49.99. will allow Dutch retailer HAL Holding NV to take tion plan, the company’s founding Tabacchi family • Petites continues to be rolled out, with 400 stores set to carry control of the Italian eyeglass maker and save the will see its 39.9 percent controlling share in Safi lo the sizes by spring, from about 360 currently. Padua-based company from near-bankruptcy. drop to 10 percent, while HAL — which already • In fi scal 2010, Maurices will open about 35 stores and close In a statement released after an extraordinary owns 2 percent of the company — will gain control fi ve to 10; Dress Barn will open 15 and close 15, and Justice will shareholders’ meeting Tuesday afternoon, Safi lo with a shareholding of between 37.23 percent and close roughly 20 and open 20. Dress Barn stores average 7,500 — which makes glasses under license for brands 49.99 percent. square feet; Maurices, 5,000 square feet, and Justice, 4,500 including Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Alexander Without a successful tender offer, Safi lo has square feet. McQueen — said it expects the capital increase to said, the company would have likely defaulted on • Justice could open as many as 75 stores in Canada. The brand close in the fi rst quarter of 2010. its banking facilities by year’s end, leaving bank- has 35 stores overseas, through joint ventures. Most are in the According to a Safilo spokesman, the total ruptcy as its only alternative. Middle East; others are in Russia. amount raised through the recapitalization will The capital increase plan was conditional on • Dress Barn and Maurices don’t operate abroad, though go toward lowering the eyeglass maker’s debts of HAL acquiring at least 60 percent of Safi lo’s 195 Canada is considered a possibility. 590 million euros, or $859 million. million euros, or $283.9 million, worth of outstand- Justice, considered the third largest tween retailer in the U.S., On Oct. 20, Safi lo’s board approved a recapi- ing high-yield 2013 notes by Nov. 30 — a deadline behind Wal-Mart and Target, and just ahead of J.C. Penney, Kohl’s, talization plan under which HAL would end up twice postponed. In a statement on Nov. 30, HAL Old Navy and Aéropostale, is projected to post $650 million in owning as much as half the company. As part of said 51 percent of the notes had been tendered sales in fi scal 2010. Dress Barn is seen generating $640 million in the plan, Safi lo also agreed to sell about half of and that it was lowering its minimum requirement sales, and Maurices, $960 million. its 300 global retail units to HAL for an additional level from 60 percent of notes to 51 percent.

14 WWD, thursday, december 17, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. M&As Slow, but Picking Up By Arnold J. Karr Apparel Prices Drop in Nov., Rise 1% for Year Personal care companies have been a rare hot spot in a slug‑ By Liza Casabona cent month-to-month and fell 1.8 percent g­ish year for consumer products mergers and acquisitions. year-to-year. Boys’ apparel prices declined According to a study of M&A activity this year through October by Robert W. WASHINGTON — Retail apparel prices de‑ 1.2 percent, and decreased 0.3 percent com‑ Baird & Co.’s investment banking department, the biggest consumer goods deal clined a seasonally adjusted 0.3 percent in pared with the same period last year. of 2009 so far has been The Stanley Works’ acquisition of The Black & Decker November but rose 1 percent versus a year The Fed, led by chairman Ben Bernanke Corp. for $4.5 billion. However, the second, third and fourth largest were all in ago, the Labor Department said Wednesday — picked as Time magazine’s Person of the the personal care field, topped by Unilever’s $1.88 billion acquisition of Sara in its Consumer Price Index. Year — said inflation would remain “subdued Lee’s personal care business and followed by Unilever’s $412 million takeover Investors were unmoved by the CPI fig‑ for some time.” Although the federal funds of Tigi. Energizer Holdings’ $275 million acquisition of S.C. Johnson’s Edge and ures or the Federal Reserve’s decision to rate, which influences how much it costs Skintimate brands was the fourth largest middle-market deal. keep the federal funds interest rate in its consumers and businesses to borrow money, The momentum in personal care M&As kept up this week as Alberto- current range of zero to 0.25 percent. The wasn’t changed on Wednesday, it is expected Culver Co. on Monday agreed to buy Simple Health & Beauty, the U.K. skin S&P Retail Index was down 0.4 percent, or to migrate higher as the economy strengthens care brand, for about $390 million. 1.51 points, to 409.96, and the Dow Jones and inflation becomes a concern. The Baird study showed middle-market M&A deals — defined as those Industrial Average slid 0.1 percent, or 10.88 The Fed’s open market committee said with a disclosed value of less than $1 billion — likely will hit an eight-year points, to 10,441.12. “economic activity has continued to pick up” low, but signs of a revival are starting to pop up. Through the end of October, Women’s apparel prices dropped 0.3 per‑ and “the deterioration in the labor market is there were just 20 middle-market disclosed deals, compared with 50 in the cent month-to-month and increased 1.3 per‑ abating,” but added businesses are still ‑ first 10 months of 2008. Their value slid 31.4 percent to $8.13 billion from cent year-over-year. Men’s apparel prices fell ting back and are “reluctant” to hire. $11.85 billion, but their average size rose to $406.5 million from $237 million. 0.7 percent and decreased 0.6 percent com‑ Among the day’s decliners on Wall Street pared with November 2008. was G-III Apparel Group, which laid out “It’s a difficult pricing environment, that’s plans to sell an additional 1.7 million shares In the world we’re in today…there’s going to what we’re picking up from the holiday shop‑ to the public and as many as 255,000 shares ping season,” said John Lonski, chief econo‑ to its underwriters, raising as much as $38 “be a flight to quality. mist at Moody’s Investors Services. million for general corporate purposes and, Some retailers discounted early in potentially, acquisitions. But at $19.50 a — Joseph” Pellegrini, Robert W. Baird & Co. November to encourage purchasing, but that share, the offer represented a discount of 8.2 could prove to be a problem if consumers percent from G-III’s Tuesday close of $21.25. The numbers are for U.S.-based consumer product companies and do not in‑ expect lower prices throughout the holiday Shares of the firm, which produces under its clude retail, apparel and restaurant deals, which are measured separately. Forty- season, he said. own brands as well as under licenses from four transactions for which the value wasn’t disclosed weren’t included in the tab‑ The overall CPI rose 0.4 percent month- Calvin Klein, Sean John, Kenneth Cole and ulations, down from 100 such transactions in the comparable period last year. to-month and advanced 1.8 percent in 12- others, fell 7.9 percent to $19.57. Excluding undisclosed transactions, through all of 2008, there were a total month comparisons, driven by a jump in fuel Mall operator General Growth Properties of 54 middle-market deals worth a combined $11.96 billion. This made it the prices. The so-called core index, which ex‑ Inc. said late Tuesday that it received bank‑ second-worst year of the decade after 2001, when $9.3 billion changed hands cludes the volatile food and energy sectors, ruptcy court approval of its reorganiza‑ in 45 M&A transactions. was flat month-to-month and rose 1.7 percent tion plan. The real estate investment trust Although middle-market M&A action remains slow, interest is picking up compared with a year earlier. worked out a deal to restructure 87 secured as access to credit eases and companies that held onto cash during the worst Apparel prices continued to decline mortgage loans totaling $10.25 billion, and of the recession look to put it to good use. Also, companies such as Kellwood in most categories in November. Women’s the payment in full of all undisputed claims Co. and Emerisque Brands have gone on the record about their pursuit of dresses dropped 1.2 percent and fell 0.4 per‑ of creditors. General Growth, which filed for acquisitions in the apparel arena. cent compared with a year earlier. Women’s Chapter 11 protection in April, hopes to exit “The frequency and quality of conversations we’re having with [strategic buy‑ suits and separates slid 0.2 percent, but rose bankruptcy proceedings by yearend. Shares ers] looking at possible acquisition targets have greatly increased in the last six 0.5 percent compared with November 2008. slumped 10.4 percent to $8.81 Wednesday. months,” said Joseph Pellegrini, managing director of Baird’s consumer retail The broad women’s underwear, , Published reports indicated that Iconix team. “In the world we’re in today, where we’re not sure whether or not we’re out sportswear and accessories category fell Brand Group Inc. was abandoning its pur‑ of the woods, there’s going to be a flight to quality — not to broken businesses that 1.3 percent in November but advanced 4.5 suit of Playboy Enterprises Inc. because of need to be fixed, but businesses that are holding their own, that have good fran‑ percent year-over-year. Women’s outerwear the integration problems that would fol‑ chises, that are making money even if they’re a bit bruised by the recession.” prices rose 1.9 percent, but declined 1.1 per‑ low an acquisition. Iconix shares rose 3 The increase in the size of the average deal reflects evolving consumer behav‑ cent in 12-month comparisons. percent to $12.34 while Playboy’s slid 9.9 ior in difficult times. Reflecting on the acquisitions of brands such as Edge, in Men’s suits, sport coats and outerwear percent to $3.46. grooming, and the pursuit of the U.K.’s Cadbury by Kraft Foods Inc. in a hostile prices decreased 2 percent in November and European markets firmed — with the CAC takeover, Pellegrini said: “None of these are superluxurious brands. But in tough fell 4.5 percent compared with a year ear‑ 40 in Paris advancing 1.1 percent to 3,875.82 times, people take care of themselves and they stick to basics,” such as food. lier. Shirts and sweaters fell 0.6 percent and and London’s FTSE 100 ahead 0.7 percent “It’s easier to get a deal done with a larger company,” he said. “In a recession, declined 1 percent year-over-year. Pants and to 5,320.26. In Asia, Japan’s Nikkei 225 rose everyone is impacted in one way or the other, but a bigger company has more of shorts were down 1 percent and fell 0.8 per‑ 0.9 percent to 10,177.41 while the Hang Seng an opportunity to cut costs. It’s another instance of the flight to quality.” cent in 12-month comparisons. Prices for men’s Index in Hong Kong fell at the same rate to Recent shifts in currency, with the dollar weakening, also will affect the furnishings rose 0.9 percent, and advanced 3.1 21,611.74. M&A market, he predicted, with strategic buyers far more important than percent compared with a year earlier. — With contributions from financial suitors. Girls’ apparel prices were down 3.6 per‑ Evan Clark and Vicki M. Young

10 Best Performers 10 Worst Performers

DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt High Low Last %Change High Low Last %Change

1.19 1.10 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 40892 1.19 +7.21 1.47 0.87 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 46732 0.93 -27.91

14.53 13.54 Cabela’s (CAB) 10.9 1330254 14.26 +5.86 4.23 3.12 tandy Brands (TBAC) - 23994 3.12 -14.17

8.54 8.01 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 350295 8.28 +5.61 20.38 19.04 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 1181193 19.57 -7.91

4.26 4.00 Caché (CACH) - 160791 4.18 +5.03 0.43 0.40 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 4447 0.40 -4.76

2.43 2.27 Casual Male (CMRG) - 350898 2.37 +4.87 11.61 10.96 Stage Stores (SSI) 16.6 379932 10.98 -4.44

6.67 5.82 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 2418829 6.14 +4.78 0.14 0.13 NexCen (NEXC) - 24203 0.14 -3.45

3.18 2.91 American Apparel (APP) 304.0 267493 3.17 +4.28 24.55 23.32 Oxford (OXM) - 293760 23.40 -3.43

3.59 3.40 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 661507 3.52 +3.83 1.29 1.15 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 24.8 282490 1.20 -3.23

22.74 21.78 Dress Barn (DBRN) 19.5 2301382 22.51 +3.73 97.00 91.83 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 14.1 712507 92.84 -3.08

25.64 24.81 Genesco (GCO) 21.6 296041 25.49 +3.66 9.01 8.47 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 12.1 12364 8.86 -2.64

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, THURSDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2009 15 WWD.COM

A display in the new Little NRF Survey Shows Shoppers Procrastinating MissMatched store in Chicago. By David Moin discounts to bring in last-minute shoppers,” said Tracy mullin, president and chief executive offi- To THe DISmAY of SToReS NATIoNWIDe, cer of the NRf. “As Christmas Day creeps closer, more consumers are putting off their Christmas retailers will be ready for an influx of procras- shopping than last year, the National Retail tinators, from those who are checking the final federation said Wednesday. names off their list to millions who haven’t even The average person had completed 46.7 per- started shopping.” cent of his or her holiday shopping by the sec- The NRf said almost 42 million people — ond week of December, compared with 47.1 per- 19.1 percent — had not even started their shop- cent last year, according to NRf’s 2009 “Holiday ping as of late last week, while just 8.6 percent Consumer Intentions and Actions Survey” con- completely finished. People ages 65 or older ducted by BIGresearch. have completed the most shopping, 50 percent, The NRf said this is the lowest percentage and adults 45 to 54 years old have completed the since 2004, when the average person had com- least, 44.1 percent. pleted 46.3 percent of his or her shopping by the The survey of 9,929 consumers polled from same period. Dec. 1 to 9 found that only 11.9 percent of shop- Retailers have been price promoting steadily pers said they will buy their last gift Christmas this season, mostly up to 40 percent off, but the eve, and 35 percent plan to finish their shopping price cuts haven’t been as deep as last year be- by Saturday. Little MissMatched Finds Fit in Chicago cause inventories are lower. Stores are expected The NRf said discounters and department TAkING ADvANTAGe of THe AILING ReAL eSTATe mARkeT, to roll out heftier discounts any day in hopes of stores will get the most crowded as the holiday Little missmatched will open a store later this week in what used creating incentives for a nation of shopping pro- nears, and listed apparel, books, CDs, DvDs, vid- to be the Chelsea Passage in Barneys New York’s former space crastinators. Consumers are well aware that the eos and video games, toys, gift cards, electronics in Chicago. longer they wait, the bigger the markdown, but and food as the popular gift items this season Little missmatched, which specializes in legwear, accessories may face more stockouts than last year. so far. and juniors’ apparel, expects to unveil the boutique Thursday or “Retailers know the final lap counts the most The trade association forecast that holiday friday. There are also plans for an early-to-mid January opening and are planning to emphasize promotions and sales will decline 1 percent from last year. of a Union Station store in Washington that will boost its store count to six. When the company was approached about taking over 2,000 square feet of the old Barneys store at 35 east oak Street, “we jumped on Stacy Lastrina Promoted at Jones Apparel it,” said Jessica varon, director of public relations and marketing. In August, the brand took a similar tactic with a commercial vacancy at NEW YORK — Stacy Lastrina has been promoted to During her tenure, Lastrina has been instru- 565 fifth Avenue in New York, which it now occupies. chief marketing officer of Jones Apparel Group mental in many Jones initiatives, including the Last month, Little missmatched opened an orlando store, and sales Inc., a new post. launch of JNY Signature, Rachel Rachel Roy, the are double what was projected, varon said. That is helping to fuel an- Lastrina had served as executive vice presi- development of Jones New York in the Classroom nual volume. Last year, Little missmatched’s retail sales were $32 mil- dent of marketing and creative services since and Jones Apparel Group Green projects. lion, and that figure is expected to increase by 40 percent this year, August 2007. She continues to report to Wesley “Stacy is an exceptional marketing executive according to chief financial officer Brigid foster. Ann Acierno, who R. Card, president and chief executive officer who brings a history of proven results and dem- joined the company this summer as president, has been trying to give of Jones. onstrated leadership to this important role. Her the brand more of a fashion spin. In addition to its signature whimsical Lastrina joined Nine West Group in 1991 as di- energy, enthusiasm and creativity, as well as her , the new locations will offer the sportswear for teens and tweens rector of marketing. In 1999, Jones acquired Nine passion for all of Jones’ brands, are key drivers that was introduced for this spring. West Group. in our success,” said Card. — Rosemary Feitelberg

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE SALES REPS NY Based established women’s wear importer looking for experienced sales reps to sell blouses, skirts, suits and dresses. Moderately priced missy & plus sizes. Experience with specialty & Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTION MANAGER chain stores required. Fax resume: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 212-226-5324 or E-mail: [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Luxury Golf Apparel Company seeks ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Production Mgr. for our NY location to assist VP with managing three better SALES HELP WANTED Golf brands. Responsibilities will in- Leading ladies shirt manufacturer is WANTED clude but are not limited to: day to day interested in highly motivated sales- Major eveningwear manufacturer overseas communication, costing, person to fill a position for existing seeks draper to work with designer to calendar and WIP management. and new business. Excellent benefits. create muslin/first in domestic Experience with knits, woven’s and Email your resume to: sampleroom. Capable of working with 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes outerwear preferred. Ideal candidate [email protected] samplehands to create finished gar- has 5+ years knowledge in Production Menswear Showrooms ments. Working knowledge of produc- Management and prior overseas travel. D. Levy Adams & Co. #212-679-5500 tion techniques. Send resume in Summit Golf Brands is a leader in the confidence to [email protected] golf apparel industry with a portfolio consisting of three extraordinary brands: Fairway & Greene, EP Pro and PATTERNMAKER Zero Restriction. We offer a competi- Major women’s apparel mfg. located in tive salary and benefits package. For Bucks County, PA is seeking exp. pro- consideration please forward resume duction patternmaker that specializes with salary req.’s to: in missy and woman sizes. Candidate [email protected] must be experienced in all types of No phone calls or walk-in’s please. garments and knowledge of garment To subscribe, visit our website construction, knowledge of Lectra sys- tem a plus. Must have good communi- TECH DESIGNER – SWIM www.wwd.com/subscribenow cation skills, detail oriented, dependa- Responsible for execution of all fit and ble, flexible and able to work in a fast TOP approvals for leading missy swim or call 800.289.0273 paced environment while maintaining brand. Swimwear exp a must and company fit standards. Email resumes must be able to work indep. Resume: to [email protected] [email protected] Agriculture Software Sustainability Innovations Fashion Advertising Consumer

Expand Your Knowledge Base www.CottonLifestyleMonitor.com

Knowledge is power. Knowing your consumer, your retail sector—your entire supply chain—has never been more vital to business success than it is today. For over 15 years, the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ survey has been tapping into the attitudes and behaviors of consumers in the U.S. and around the world. Now that knowledge base, as well as the company’s Supply Chain Insights,™ Retail Monitor™ reports and Cotton Economic data, are available online.

Go to cottonlifestylemonitor.com to expand your knowledge base.

AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. ™ Service Mark/Trademark of Cotton Incorporated. © Cotton Incorporated, 2009.