2 WWD, FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 WWD.COM Prada Opening Offices retail In Paris and Hong Kong Target Gets Northern Exposure By DAVID MOIN for Lord & Taylor in 2006. NRDC’s roots are By LUISA ZARGANI in real estate, so its recent acquisitions of re- Target is getting set to invade Canada, and in tailers have raised speculation that real es- MILAN — Prada is taking its design team east and west. a big way. tate owned by the retailers could be sold off. In a groundbreaking move, the luxury goods house said it plans to America’s trendy discounter will open 100 With many of its sites going to Target and open two new design and research offices in Paris and Hong Kong, the to 150 stores across Canada in 2013 and 2014, possibly other retailers, Zellers, currently first outside company headquarters here. The offices will be complemen- through a $1.84 billion deal to take over up to with 279 locations, will become a much- tary to and coordinated by the Milan base and are expected to be up and 220 Zellers leases. pared-down business, Baker noted. “We are running within the first half. Target’s entry into Canada marks the going to run all Zellers stores through 2011, The company said the openings are in line with international develop- chain’s first expansion outside the U.S. The then run many in 2012. By 2013, it will be a ment of its brands and will help it approach creativity in a new manner. deal may also open the way for other retailers small division,” he said. Zellers will sublease “Gruppo Prada believe that research must represent cultural integra- to enter Canada since Target Corp. could gain certain sites from Target. tion and the synthesis of a real intellectual collaboration between differ- control over many more leases than it plans to Baker said Target hasn’t made final de- ent worlds,” the firm said. “To obtain this, it is necessary to create a real convert to its own stores. In addition, Zellers terminations on which Zellers to convert to network from which to draw and acquire ideas, innovative cues and new could decide to give up leases that Target Targets. “We don’t know exactly where they resources in all fields, including that of technological advancement.” doesn’t take. are,” Baker said. “They haven’t selected the The offices will help stimulate and promote new international re- Kohl’s, J.C. Penney, Macy’s and Kmart are stores they want. They have a right to pick up sources, while also consolidating Prada’s presence in two important cit- among the American retailers with no stores to 220 stores, any stores they want.” ies at both the design and business levels, said the company. in Canada, with Kohl’s the most eager to ex- Asked if Target would compete with “This is a very intelligent and innovative way of thinking,” said a Milan- pand across borders, according to sources. Hudson’s Bay Trading Co., specifically The based luxury goods consultant, who requested anonymity. “Automakers Retailers already operating in Canada, in- Bay, Baker replied: “Maybe in some really and phone companies have research and design centers around the world, cluding Wal-Mart and Lowe’s, would be inter- small way,” explaining that Target’s prices why shouldn’t fashion? Also, it’s one thing to have a team living in Asia, for ested in additional locations, though Target are lower and that The Bay sells brands that example, with a different approach and way of thinking, and a totally dif- would not be interested in facilitating Wal- Target doesn’t stock. ferent thing to have employees based in Milan who travel to Asia.” Mart’s growth. Considering its popularity in the U.S. and The source also noted Prada has always invested heavily in its design its reputation for innovative team and in shaping new talent. Several designers flourished during their marketing, Target should go over time at the company and went on to succeed in the industry, including Target will take over well with Canadian consumers. Yves Saint Laurent creative director Stefano Pilati, who was Miuccia many Zellers locations. There’s also less retail competi- Prada’s assistant designer at Miu Miu; Neil Barrett, who today designs his tion in Canada than in the U.S. own line; Yvan Mispelaere, now creative director at However, it won’t be a slam Prada Diane von Furstenberg; Rodolfo Paglialunga, now dunk. Target will have to reno- on the creative director at Vionnet, and former Gucci and vate the Zellers stores and runway. Valentino creative director Alessandra Facchinetti. adapt its merchandising to the While the Hong Kong office “obviously signals smaller footprints. Zellers av- a strong attention to Asia,” said the source, the rea- erage 90,000 to 100,000 square son for a base in Paris is less transparent. “Either feet, while Target stores average [Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio 135,000 square feet. Target ex- Bertelli] found the right person to head the pects to spend more than 1 bil- team there, or, given that Miu Miu shows in lion Canadian dollars, or $1.03 Paris, they may want to further differentiate billion at current exchange, on it from the signature line,” he speculated. remodeling the sites. Armando Branchini, vice president of Asked if there would be much Milan-based consulting firm InterCorporate, difference between Target in also applauded the project. “It’s a very posi- the U.S. versus Canada, a Target tive move: it’s so important to have anten- spokesman said: “We expect to nae on the market,” he said. “These new The deal enables Zellers’ parent, Hudson’s offer a similar breadth and depth of merchan- design offices will allow Prada to be more Bay Trading Co., to eliminate its Canadian debt dise.” As far as Target adapting to the smaller in touch with local aesthetics and culture. and pour capital into its two department store sites, merchandising alterations would be Globalization does not mean homogeniza- chains, the 92-unit The Bay in Canada and the determined on a site-by-site basis. Target is tion, but the ability to take into account and 48-unit Lord & Taylor in the U.S. Hudson’s Bay developing a smaller prototype in the Seattle enhance cultural and aesthetic diversity.” Trading Co. also operates the 160-unit Field’s, area that will open before any stores open in The analyst also said the choice of Hong another discounter selling a range of products, Canada. It could contain features applicable Kong was a nod to the firm’s possible IPO. and the 69-unit Home Outfitters chain. to Canadian sites. Speculation has been mounting that “This is a spectacular transaction,” Target is also considering other countries Prada might be considering a listing in Richard Baker, chairman and chief execu- for expansion, such as Mexico. Hong Kong, as the Italian firm capitalizes tive officer of Hudson’s Bay Trading Co., According to the Minneapolis-based re- on growing revenues in the Asia-Pacific said Thursday when the deal was unveiled. tailer, the financial returns on the Canadian region. That market showed a 51 percent “It generates a huge amount of cash that we stores are expected to be in line with returns surge in sales in the first nine months of can now use to pay down our debt and invest on new Target stores in the U.S. There will be 2010. In particular, China is the area that in our operating companies going forward.” some dilution to earnings prior to store open- is developing at the quickest pace for The debt stems from NRDC Equity Partners’ ings, followed by accretion to earnings in the the company, which intends to open 17 acquisition of The Hudson’s Bay Co. in 2008, first full year of operation. stores there next year and another 11 in which was then transformed into Hudson Bay Target said its Canadian expansion will gen- 2012. As reported, Prada is planning a fashion show Trading Co., a holding company for the four erate thousands of jobs there through construc- in Beijing on Jan. 22 to make a statement in China. operating divisions. According to reports, tion projects and store operations. Typically,

Maestri Regarding the timing of the IPO, Prada said in NRDC paid $1.1 billion for Hudson’s Bay, and Target has 150 to 200 employees per store. e D November that it will likely take place in the second remains acquisition minded. During the in- Target also said it intends to actively pursue

Davi half of 2011, depending on market conditions. The com- terview, Baker did cite the possibility of using the sale of its credit card receivables portfolio, pany canceled plans for a listing several times over the some of the cash from the Zellers deal for an which totaled $6.7 billion as of Oct. 30. First past few years. A location has not been confirmed. acquisition. NRDC also paid about $1 billion Annapolis has been hired to advise Target. photo by

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BEAUTY BIZ BECOMES PHOTO BY ANTOINE VERGLAS ANTOINE BY PHOTO BEAUTY INC. FEBRUARY 2011 4 WWD, FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 WWD.COM

A display at SIHH trade fair. LVMH-Hermès: Sizing Up the Cost By MILES SOCHA capital into a family holding without having to buy out minority shareholders, girding its defenses against PARIS — Buying all remaining shares of Hermès a possible takeover. The report detailed that not all International on the free float — and those of fam- family members plan to participate in the holding. ily members opting not to pool theirs into a protec- Colette Neuville, president of the French tive holding — would cost LVMH Moët Hennessy Association for Minority Shareholders (ADAM), Louis Vuitton an estimated 3.8 billion euros, or plans to appeal the AMF decision on the grounds $4.95 billion at current exchange. that it penalizes holders of the company’s capital While financially possible for the luxury giant, that is freely traded. The deadline to appeal is given its strong cash flow and low gearing, this “aggres- Monday. LVMH has yet to comment on the AMF de- sive approach” could be fraught with complications. cision — or indicate if it intends to appeal. That’s a hypothesis floated by Bernstein Research The AMF is separately examining whether analyst Luca Solca in a report published Thursday. LVMH violated market rules by buying the shares According to Solca, driving Hermès out of the via equity derivatives. stock market would constrain family members in Meanwhile, industry sources suggested Hermès the holding from turning their shares into cash, po- could face internal hurdles in creating its shareholder tentially making it more likely for them to accept pact in the “cooling-off period” between now — when an outright takeover or a merger with LVMH. anti-LVMH sentiment among the family is still run- However, if LVMH’s stake-building took it over ning high — and the resolution of the AMF appeal. Luxury 33 percent, forcing it to launch a full bid, family Hermès has indicated it won’t construct its fam- members are unlikely to accept, leaving “LVMH ily holding until the appeal is concluded. That

with a higher share and yet no control.” means participating members will have time to LVMH acquired a 17.1 percent share of the luxury reflect on the ramifications of locking up much of Uptick for Swiss Watch Industry firm’s capital through cash-settled equity swaps last their wealth for 20 years. October, a stake it boosted to 20.2 percent last month. One financial source noted that even if Hermès

By JOELLE DIDERICH The Bernstein report comes in the wake of last increases its dividend, moneys in the family hold- week’s decision by the AMF, France’s stock market ing could quickly get eaten up by liquidity needs, How times change. authority, allowing Hermès to reclassify the share succession rights and taxes. Only last year, Swiss watchmakers were cautiously banking on a recovery in sales after the global economic crisis sent exports plummeting’’ in 2009. As the industry prepares for the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), running from Jan. 17 to 21 in Geneva, it is looking forward to hitting Carrefour Profit Misses Forecast new peaks this year, thanks to an unexpectedly strong re- bound in consumers’ appetite for luxury timepieces. PARIS — Carrefour SA posted fourth-quarter sales Dollar figures have been converted at average “We have been positively surprised by the strength of the in line with market expectations, but said 2010 op- exchange rates for the periods to which they refer. recovery in exports,” said Jean-Daniel Pasche, president of erating profits fell slightly short of its most recent As a result, reported and restated operating the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FHS). “We be- guidance after the company booked one-off charges profit for the full year came in at 2.96 billion euros, lieve 2011 could be a record year.” in Brazil and five other countries resulting from re- or $3.93 billion, up 9.4 percent, versus a restated Swiss watch exports rose 21.8 percent between January cent audits. 2.71 billion, or $3.78 billion, in 2009. This compared and November last year to 14.6 billion Swiss francs, or $13.94 Carrefour, the world’s second-largest retailer be- with the company’s downwardly revised target of 3 hind Wal-Mart Stores Inc., said it had implemented billion euros, or $3.98 billion, for 2010. Underlying new operating rules with strengthened internal con- operating profit for the period stood at 3.02 billion trols as a result of the irregularities, which prompt- euros, or $4.01 billion, Carrefour said. ed it to issue a profit warning late last year that rat- The audits in other countries resulted in an ad- We believe 2011 tled investors and weighed on its share price. ditional one-off charge of 54 million euros, or $71.7 Carrefour chief executive officer Lars Olofsson million, in 2010. Carrefour chief financial officer could be a record year. stated that “2010 was a year of contrasts for Pierre Bouchut said the company will propose the Carrefour: Heavy one-off charges weighed on our appointment of a third external auditor, Mazars, at — Jean-Daniel Pasche, FeDeration oF results, but we also saw several very satisfying its next annual general meeting. the swiss watch inDustry achievements.” Carrefour, which will disclose its full 2010 re- The company confirmed it would record one- sults on March 3, did not provide a net profit figure. billion, according to the most recent available FHS data. That off charges in Brazil of 550 million euros, or $716.1 In the three months to Dec. 31, sales rose brings the market back to levels last seen in 2007 — histori- million. Of this, it booked 30 million euros, or $39.8 5.1 percent to 27.12 billion euros, or $36.90 bil- cally, its second-best year after 2008, noted Pasche. million, at operating profit level in 2010 in addi- lion, after increasing 6.7 percent to 25.61 billion In a recent report, Zurich-based investment bank Vontobel tion to 52 million euros, or $72.5 million, in 2009, euros, or $33.05 billion, in the third quarter. Full- said exports should rise 8 percent this year to 17.3 billion though earlier it expected the charges to be tallied year 2010 sales were up 5.8 percent to 101.02 bil- euros, or $18.12 billion at current exchange, beating the re- as nonoperating income given their nonrecurring lion euros, or $134.14 billion, the group said. cord of 17 billion euros set in 2008. and exceptional amount. — J.D. As a result, the watch sector, which shed a total’’ of 4,200 employees in 2009, is hiring again. Hublot is seeking 50 extra staff in departments ranging from watchmaking to electrotyping, a spokesman for the brand said. Tag Heuer is hiring 40 people, including watchmaking op- erators, engineers, technicians and administrative staff, while FGI Announces Rising Stars Audemars Piguet is recruiting 25 employees in various fields. However, not all firms have benefited from the recovery. By MARC KARIMZADEH Romano; Towana Phillip of To’sha; Adriana Castro; Suppliers have yet to feel the trickle-down effects of rising de- Satu and Celeste Greenberg of Tuleste Market; Jury mand, with some still resorting to furloughs in order to avoid NEW YORK — Fashion Group International has Artola and Olga Grib of J. Artola, and Marc Marmel. firing employees, according to Pasche. unveiled the emerging talent up for honors at the For fine jewelry, presented by Ippolita, the winner And of the new jobs being created, many are temporary 14th annual Rising Star Awards on Jan. 27. will be chosen between Nina Basharova; Visnja positions, noted François Matile, secretary general of the In the women’s ready-to-wear category, the nomi- Brdar of Visnja Jewels; Wendy Brandes; Moritz Glik Convention Patronale de l’Industrie Horlogère Suisse, an orga- nees are Tom Scott; Jonathan Simkhai; of Moritz Glik Studio, and Betty Lou nization representing employers in the Swiss watch industry. Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Moscot of Blu Betty Lou Moscot. Nonetheless, Matile was optimistic about the outlook. He Yoon of Bensoni; Fabiola Arias; Elene In beauty, the fragrance corporate believes the number of jobs in the industry remained stable Cassis; Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia of award will be presented by InStyle last year at around 49,100, thanks largely to efforts by lead- Sachin + Babi for Ankasa; Joel Diaz magazine’s Amy Synnott-D’Annibale, ing manufacturers to avoid layoffs, leaving the sector well and Christina LaPens of Jolibe; Jedda- and nominees are Siddharth Shah of equipped to tackle future growth. Kahn Blue-El of Jedda-Kahn; Bradley Givaudan Fragrances Corp.; Margot “We went through a tough 18 months, but the reassuring Scott, and Danny Liu and Brian Wood Humbert of MAC Cosmetics; Jill Nisson thing about that period is that it was clear the sector was not for Silvio Liu. Catherine Malandrino of Avon Products Inc., and Caroline dealing with structural issues. All that was missing was the will present the rtw award. Pieper-Vogt of Fusion Brands Inc. customer,” said Matile. “Now the financial crisis is over, the For men’s apparel, nominees Bobbi Brown will hand out the fra- watch industry is ready to pick up where it left off.” are Jeff Halmos and Sam Shipley of grance entrepreneur award, which will There are some clouds on the horizon: The Swiss franc last Shipley & Halmos; Antonio Azzuolo; be decided between Christopher Chong month hit a record high against the U.S. dollar, euro and British Peder Børresen, Stefan Dahlkvist of Amouage; Harold Zimmerman of pound, making Swiss exports less competitive, while the price and Simen Staalnacke of Moods of Votre Vu; Francis Kurkdjian of Maison of precious metals like gold has steadily climbed in the last year. Norway, and Loris Diran. Simon Francis Kurkdjian, and Ellen Sirot of Those pressures should prompt brands to continue raising Spurr will present the award. Hand Perfection. prices in 2011, industry observers said. Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo Finally, House Beautiful maga- “It’s a process that has already begun,” noted Pasche at the will present the retail award, which Lauren Bush will be zine’s Newell Turner will present in FHS. “It is possible and, indeed, very probable that prices will will be decided between Alissa a presenter. home/interior design, with nominees rise. But it’s impossible to say by how much overall, because Emerson and Valerie Feigen of Edit; being Koray Duman and Laith Sayigh that will depend on each brand’s policy. After all, raising pric- Lisa Weiss of Début New York; Robert James of of Sayigh + Duman; Karl Zahn, and Alissia Melka- es is also risky and can provoke a negative reaction.” By Robert James, and Jennifer Fleiss and Jennifer Teichroew of By AMT Inc. In its report, Vontobel said brands including Rolex, Cartier, Hyman of Rent the Runway. Norma Kamali will be the keynote speaker at IWC and Audemars Piguet marked up their goods in Europe Lauren Bush will be on hand to present the ac- the luncheon at Cipriani 42nd Street here, which in 2010, but Swatch Group has held back so far. cessories award, for which the nominees are Nicole will be hosted by Condé Nast Digital’s Jamie Pallot. THE NEWEST REAL HOUSEWIFE ‘BARES’ ALL. PAGE 4 WWDJANUARY 14, 2011 STYLE

MAC’s

Wonder Woman NEAL PETERS COLLECTION DC COMICS/COURTESY 2 WWDSTYLE friday, january 14, 2011 beauty[prestige] Procter & Gamble’s Luxury Equation The Cincinnati-based beauty behemoth is in a battle for number one with L’Oréal.

{Continued from page 1} market though a combination of organ- this misconception we’re only fra- P&G built up momentum in the prestige fragrance ic growth and acquisitions. Although grances,” he said. “SK-II has been market via a licensing agreement with Dolce & Gabbana he declined to discuss specific category part of this part of our business in December 2005, rolling out The One fragrance in 2006, targets for acquisitions, when pressed, for a year now, so we feel like we the year it also inked a license with Gucci. The personal he said: “We’re looking across prestige have a good model for marketing care company actually entered the fragrance market 18 beauty, but any acquisition needs to fit skin care. Humbly speaking and years ago, with a business that industry sources estimat- our portfolio. Yes, we’re always looking, based on our SK-II experience, ed at less than $50 million. Now, P&G’s fragrance volume but we’ll see what comes up.” we know how to do skin. Yes, it is is estimated by sources at $4 billion in retail sales. He deftly sidestepped the recur- a different model, but the funda- As a starting point for P&G Prestige’s transition into rent questions of the past, in which mentals are the same.” a full-fledged luxury beauty player, Louvet pointed to the market periodically speculates Louvet said the same logic ap- the company’s overall corporate strategy: to touch and about a possible acquisition of the plied to color: “Color is closer to improve the lives of more consumers, in more parts of Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and, more re- skin than to fragrances, but we the world, more completely. “The corporate strategy is, cently, Beiersdorf. have a lot of experience in the frankly, a perfect fit for how we see our growth strategy Defining organic growth, Louvet company on marketing color as a in prestige,” he said. Referring to the part about ad- referred to fuelling its existing portfo- whole — not prestige experience, dressing consumers more completely, Louvet said this lio of “phenomenal fragrance brands” but I think we can tap into our led its prestige division to look across all the beauty cat- as well as driving SK-II’s continued prestige skin care and fragrance egories including skin care, hair and color cosmetics in explosive growth. “It’s doing incredi- experience, too.” order to fully address a women’s beauty needs. bly well. It posted double-digit growth On the subject, Carolyn Tastad, When asked if capturing new markets was a fac- last year and will again this year.” Patrice vice president of global market tor in broadening the prestige division, Louvet said Sources estimate that SK-II’s retail Louvet operations, said: “We recognize P&G Prestige has an existing global presence, but volume is more than $1 billion. the difference, we really do, and it is “NATO-centric,” referring to its firm foothold in When asked if bringing the skin care all continues to go back to ground- Europe and North America. “As population demo- brand’s spa concept to Europe was a ing everything we do in the con- graphics shift, we want to make sure we are where the possibility, he replied: “It could be,” sumer. We’re so fundamentally consumer of the future is. This will mean expanding suggesting a sizeable shift, and a com- committed to that, and the unique east and south. It’s not only about Asia, although this is mitment by the division to evolve be- insights that we have, they be- a big opportunity along with Latin America.” yond its traditional mainstream roots. come guiding.” Louvet said the new luxury beauty division will aim “For me, spas are about brand building, Louvet said P&G’s core to “touch,” or reach, more consumers through a com- rather than just generating revenue, strengths resonate in the prestige bination of factors, including expanding its existing building the equity of the brand and space, referring to the company’s product offer and enlarging its presence in the male creating a brand experience.” strong belief in consumer under- grooming arena. “Historically, we’ve catered more Louvet emphasized P&G standing through constant re- towards women for total beauty and grooming. is not in a race to expand search, brand-building abilities, It’s also true for prestige, even though we’re color cosmetics. “It’s innovation, go-to-market capabili- probably one of the divisions more bal- about being selective, and ties and the ability to execute. anced as we have great male and fe- we’ll continue to expand “These are our key strengths male fragrances,” he said, citing at the pace we feel is right. and play very well in the prestige Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Hugo This is luxury, and it’s about space. There are obviously unique Boss and Lacoste from its being exclusive and selective,” aspects to the luxury space — you scent portfolio as possess- he said, referring to Dolce & Carolyn can’t do Pantene like you do Dolce ing strong male businesses. Gabbana’s makeup line, which, Tastad & Gabbana,” he said. “But our at- “We clearly want to do according to Louvet, had tention to detail and execution — more in the male sector.” “outperformed expecta- which we feel like we’ve mastered, Offering products tions” since its launch in 2009. and we keep raising the bar — gives us confidence. across the key prestige Recent acquisitions — includ- “There’s a geographical dimension and a channel di- beauty tiers will provide ing The Art of Shaving and Zirh mension, too,” continued Louvet of the division’s luxury growth opportunities in skin care — Louvet highlighted beauty strategy, referring to e-commerce, travel retail the sector, according to as possessing “significant glob- and spas as specific market opportunities. “The digital Louvet. “We want to play al potential outside of the U.S.” space is where we want to play a leadership role, too.” in the uberprestige sector, When asked how the unit Tastad added that e-commerce is an example of where skin care is priced intends to make the transition how the company intends to grow holistically: “We at $500 and $1,000, as well from marketing luxury fragranc- want to continue to innovate, evolve and lead with the in the more accessible es to addressing prestige beauty’s consumer at heart.” fragrance tiers, too.” extensive customer service needs, Louvet said he was keen to see how P&G Prestige Louvet envisages cap- A Dolce & Louvet was quick to point out the firm’s can transfer a one-to-one level of service to consumers turing the prestige beauty Gabbana palette. existing experience in the sector. “There is online. “Not only do we have the capability to build

The Guangzhou site will be dedicated to and personal style,” said Melissa Payner, Night are to be featured during the two- SNIPPETS flavors production, according to the firm, president and chief executive officer of hour appearance. while the facility in Singapore will be used Bluefly.com. IFF PLANTS: Fragrance supplier for both flavor and fragrance production. GREYL TREATMENT: Leonor Greyl, the family- International Flavors & Fragrances said DECLEOR SHOP: Shiseido’s Decléor brand owned Parisian hair care brand, will introduce Wednesday it plans to open manufacturing BLUEFLY BOUTIQUE: Bluefly Inc. is adding is set to make its debut on ShopNBC a detangler, called Lait Luminescence, in April. plants in Singapore and Guangzhou, scents. One day after it announced it would Saturday. Decléor is scheduled to appear The product, priced at $43 for 5.25 oz., is China, at a projected cost of more than launch a prescription eyewear business, first at 6 a.m., then again at 2 p.m. “By designed to be applied to dry hair to prevent $100 million over the next three years. the online luxury retailer said it has created adding Decléor Skincare to ShopNBC, we UV and heat damage while fighting dryness “As growth in this region continues to a fragrance boutique that features high- continue to grow and expand our beauty with botanical extracts like alaria esculenta, accelerate, it is important that we align end brands discounted by upward of 40 offerings and community,” said Donna cassia and manketti oil. Lait Luminescence is our infrastructure to support our capacity percent. The site went live Thursday. Bluefly Tarantino-Loyle, ShopNBC’s director of slated to be carried at about 300 salons, spas requirements,” said Doug Tough, IFF’s noted its fragrance boutique will include Beauty, Health & Fitness. “Decléor will and boutiques, like Mario Diab and Anthony chairman and chief executive officer. hundreds of scents from Chanel, Hermès, offer our customers a new approach to Leonard salons in Manhattan and Thompson “Today’s investment reflects our continued Bulgari, Calvin Klein, Sarah Jessica Parker, beauty that will energize and simplify their and Clyde chemists. Leonor Greyl, which was confidence in our growth strategies in the Juicy Couture and Beyoncé Knowles. daily antiaging skin care routine and help founded 43 years ago, comprises about 35 region and our long-term commitment to “Our fashion-conscious customers view create radiant, youthful skin.” Decléor lines primarily hair-treatment items, ranging in price these emerging markets.” fragrances as an extension of fashion like Aromessence, Hydra Floral and Aroma from $27 to $137. WWDSTYLE friday, january 14, 2011 3

Part of the collection. Procter & Gamble’s Luxury Equation

For more Beauty CoVeraGe, See

WWD.com/ beauty-industry-news.

Gucci Guilty ’’ Super beauty

MAC to Launch Wonder Woman Line

By JULIE NAUGHTON a bread plate. The cosmetics, for the most part,

bring to mind an early Seventies look — a very MAC Cosmetics is clearly hoping every woman nude contoured face with a hint of Pop-Art color, wants to be Wonder Woman. The beauty brand said Jennifer Balbier, senior vice president of this spring will launch a color collection based product development for MAC Worldwide. As on the comic book heroine. with all of MAC’s collections, the 42 stockkeep- “People are fascinated by the power of trans- ing units — which range in price from $14 for formation,” said James Gager, senior vice ’’ presi- false lashes to $49.50 for a brush set with its own dent and creative director of MAC Worldwide. metallic utility belt, leaving one’s hands free for We want to make “That’s something Wonder Woman has always those bullet-deflecting bracelets — include a embodied — and so has MAC. Wonder Woman mix of new and re-promoted products, including uses the power of makeup to eliminate dullness lipsticks, mascaras, nail polishes and eyeliners. sure we are where and make women beautiful, which is the role our One of the re-promoted products is the lipstick makeup artists play in real life. And part of cos- which another powerful woman made famous in metics is fantasy. We love showing people that the early Nineties: Russian Red, the matte cherry the consumer of you can have great fun with makeup.” color that was long Madonna’s trademark. Gager — who joked that the Wonder Woman “Most are new shades — but there are a lot of the future is. lineup would “transform Plain Janes across the shades in our line that we would never, ever get land” — predicted that the collection would be rid of,” Balbier said. even more successful than the brand’s popular Compacts and cases are done in the char- — Patrice Louvet Hello Kitty and Barbie collaborations, which acter’s signature royal blue, fire-engine red were said to do $12 mil- and taxi-cab yellow lion and $9 million at with an eye-popping this type of service in-store, but we also have to be able to retail globally, respec- Wonder Woman logo. take it online. In the spirit of leading this industry, it’s where tively. Industry sourc- Wonder Woman The eye shadow lineup we’re placing our emphasis,” he said. es noted that Wonder includes iridescent An SK-II item. Driving an expanded beauty busi- Woman could gener- white, pink and bright ness will require an increased invest- ate global retail sales uses the power of silver shades, as well ment on many levels, particularly in of about $20 million. It as dark forest green, the U.S., where the luxury beauty sec- has been planned as a makeup to eliminate olive-bronze and lime tor is heavily focused on department collection that will stay with yellow frost; store floors and one-on-one sales on shelves for about six dullness and make mascaras are done in

consultants. “From an overall stand- artin weeks, although Gager shades of purple, green m point, we have a dedicated team in predicted it will sell women beautiful. and blue in addition to New York, and, as with any busi- inn through in about two. black, and nail polishes ’’ l ness we run, we need to understand Pop culture has been are available in bright our key business drivers and how part of MAC’s DNA — James GaGer red and navy blue. shley a to deliver them,” said Tastad. She since its inception in In addition to dis- explained that, as the business 1984, noted Gager, adding that Wonder Woman tribution in 767 doors in North America and 757 shifted from being fragrance ori- has long been on his short list for collaborations. globally, MAC plans a pop-up store for the collec-

ented, it has expanded its sell- tyled by After presenting the idea to Warner Bros., which tion during its run. Although the line doesn’t bow s through team. owns the rights to the comic book character, the until mid-February in North America and March “As we moved into other studio agreed. globally, the store will open at 109 Prince Street parts of the business, such as “Wonder Woman is one of the most enduring in Manhattan after a press reception on Jan. 27. It The Art of Shaving and Frédéric female characters in all of popular culture and will be open just that day, then reopened on Feb. annaccone; Fekkai, we had to extend our i the perfect choice for this collaboration,” said 3 and will remain in place through mid-April, at capabilities in order to service Karen McTier, executive vice president, domestic which time it will become a new MAC store.

spas and salons. As each part homas licensing and worldwide marketing, Warner Bros. In-store visuals feature MAC-ized Wonder t of the business evolves, we will Consumer Products. Woman cartoons. “We decided that instead of as- always make sure we have the An oversize person called for oversize prod- signing a model to express the look, because the capabilities in place to sup- ucts, said Gager. “Since Wonder Woman has this genesis of this collection was a comic book char- port these parts of the business. photo by amazing strength, we decided that the products acter, we’’ worked with an illustrator to develop a In some cases, this will mean in the collection should be larger than anything comic exclusively for the displayers and visuals,” building new ones, and in oth- we do; from the size of the compacts to the jumbo said Gager. An extensive digital media campaign, ers, expand existing skills. But blush,” said Gager, pointing to jumbo Lipglasses including a Foursquare component, will also be we’ll look at that very much end for $19.50, larger-than-normal blush duos for part of the mix, said Guillaume Jesel, senior vice

to end,” she concluded. Wonder Woman $24 and a $20 purse mirror rivaling the size of president of global marketing for MAC. 4 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 beauty Newest RHNYC Bares Her Secrets By ANDREA NAGEL Both thought going on the show would be good for business, especially as the he women of “The Real brand is about to go national in the fi rst Housewives of New York City” quarter, even if there were no guarantees have caught themselves a real the editing reel would swing their way. beauty. The latest player to join “ Yo u know this is a big risk for our Manhattan’sT circle of alpha females — business since we are putting ourselves the women aren’t so much housewives on the line. But I thought it would be as they are masters of fashion, parties a valuable venture,” Howie said. “Just and snarkiness — is Cindy Barshop, seeing my sister and the publicity of it founder and owner of a string of laser all, it’s just surreal. But she can handle hair-removal emporiums with loca- it. She has been in front of the camera. tions in Manhattan and Scarsdale, N.Y., She’s been on TV with Diane Sawyer and units planned for Long Island, Los talking about spray tanning. She’s been Angeles, Atlanta and Dallas. Yes, the on Regis waxing someone’s back.” newest RHNYC works! Barshop said the fi rst weeks of fi lm-

The single mom of one-year-old twin ing “RHNYC” threw her for a loop and girls, who founded Completely Bare in certainly provided her with the chal- 1998 and has since turned it into a $5 lenge she was looking for. million-a-year business, apparently was “No one gave me a handbook on how up for a challenge, as if motherhood and to be a Housewife or how to interact with Cindy Barshop, entrepreneurship weren’t already test- them or how to be with them,” she said. at her newest

ing her last nerve. “It was like being on [TV reality show] Completely Bare “I have always believed you can add ‘Survivor.’ Yo u have your events, you location at The more and more as you [become more want them fi lmed,” she continued, add- Sports Club/ successful], as long as you have a great ing: “Looking good every day is hard.” LA - Rockefeller support staff. Look at anyone at the top. Seeing that Barshop lives a consider- Center, in Phillip The more you accomplish, the more can ably more hectic life than the other Real Lim’s dress; Jill accomplish,” said’’ Barshop. Housewives — as the head of Completely Zarin leggings, While she comes off as a tough-as- Bare, she’s either overseeing one of her Chanel boots and steel businesswoman — Barshop plans four locations in Manhattan, or making Susanna Galanis to triple sales this year by opening at changes to her Web site or conducting necklace. least a half-dozen locations, overhaul- research and development on the latest ing her product line and revamping her laser hair-removal system — she really Web site so consumers can make ap- didn’t have the wardrobe that went along pointments and buy items online — it’s with the role, let alone the accessories. hard not to think she’s going to get eaten And, fi lming can be as often as seven days alive. She is sweet, self-effacing, humble a week, twice a day. and polite — characteristics not typical- Rather, she describes herself as a ly showered upon the Real Housewives. hippie-chic, rock ’n’ roll woman who She even dressed casually for this inter- will surely add a downtown element to MITRA ROBERT view (skinny jeans, Hunter boots, wrap the mostly uptown crowd, as she resides

knit sweater) as per the nasty weather in the West Village and favors designers PHOTO BY

room was turned into command central Over the years, Barshop has added for stuffi ng goody bags with her latest other results-oriented services, such as No one gave me a handbook on product, Vajewel (sparkly adhesives for teeth whitening and laser facials. But the area down there), as her parents her model still refrains from the typical looked on. The combination of mom, fash- spa fare of manicures and massages. how to be a Housewife…It was like being ion, businesswoman and accessories-for- She simply wants to be known as the private-parts clearly made an impression: hair-removal expert. on [TV reality show] ‘Survivor.’ Within two weeks, Bravo made it offi cial. Her largest ventures are just on the Introducing herself to a national horizon as a partnership with elite fi t- — CINDY BARSHOP, COMPLETELY BARE audience with millions of viewers (the ness chain The Sports Club/LA will bring show, which began shooting the last Completely Bare treatment rooms to outside. And, enviably, she has all the such as Rick Owens and Phillip Lim as week of September, wraps fi lming this many of its locations across the country. physical characteristics of a woman well as Haute Hippie. week and is scheduled to debut the Completely Bare also will bow in the plas- who wakes up looking pretty good: dark, But clearly, the most diffi cult part of second week of February) works nice- tic surgery practice of fellow reality TV straight hair that neatly frames her face; joining “RHNYC” was entering a social ly with Completely Bare’s expansion. star Dr. Felix Rey and in Exhale Spa’s caramel-colored, fl awless skin; bright, dynamic with established players and And, like many of the Real Housewives, newest locations in Dallas and Atlanta. white, even teeth; almond shaped, dark an unwritten script for how to talk to Barshop now will have a national plat- Closer to home is a 5,000-square-foot space brown eyes. And, presumably, she’s well whom and when. form for her passion. planned for a new retail development groomed, well, everywhere. Overall? “It is reality, but you have come into The concept for Completely Bare was complex in Roslyn, Long Island, by the She comes off as sexy-adorable, a look their world, and you’re the new kid. No born well before Brazilian bikini waxes son of furniture tycoon Maurice Villency. that makes the 46-year-old appear much one pays attention to you. So when I say it entered the beauty lexicon. As a national The completion of fi lming “RHNYC” younger than her years. was like ‘Survivor,’ I had to work at mak- marketing rep for IBM, Barshop, a “nice this week will allow her to focus on the Her brother, Howie, who works along- ing myself relevant. Making myself more Jewish girl” with a frequent need for whirlwind of business commitments head- side Barshop on the fi nancial end of the known. Showing my qualities and show- depilatory services, was on a constant ed her way. And though most of her fate business, said his sister is tougher than ing them right away. This’’ is not a place search for the latest hair-removal innova- has been sealed in an editing room, Bravo her petite frame would lead one to believe. where you slowly learn about somebody. tions. A born entrepreneur, Barshop took has yet to fi nalize her opening credit — the “She is very kind, but let me tell you Or they slowly learn about you. It’s all ac- this need and opened the fi rst Completely seconds-long spot that will have her simul- she is a very sharp lady and when she celerated. And there is an etiquette.” Bare in 1998 at 764 Madison Avenue, and taneously twirling and talking about what has to be aggressive [on the show] she So your personality is on speed in fi lled it with the latest in hair-removal New York means to her, probably while has been. In the fi rst month [of fi lming] front of millions of viewers? technology. The business continues to holding an apple. So what’s her mantra? she was feeling it out. But then she did “Yeah.” thrive, she said, because it’s more about “I want to say that any woman can get aggressive when she had to. But you Barshop landed the role on “RHNYC” “problem-solution than spa luxury.” create what they want if they are deter- won’t see anything too ridiculous com- after a Bravo camera crew camped out “Overall, it’s a results-oriented busi- mined and willing to take a risk. I know ing from her, so I think she will come in her condo during fashion week last ness that’s a cool, hip brand that can it sounds pie-in-the-sky, but it’s what I be- out looking good at the end of this.” September. At the time, Barshop’s living even get you results at home,” she said. lieve,” she said. WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 5

Wal-Mart’s Youthful Side By MOLLY PRIOR “We had identifi ed a blank space in the tween and teen space, a category al-Mart is boldly pass- that continues to grow,” said Bauza, re- ing a proverbial note to ferring to Wal-Mart’s interest in GeoGirl. tweens: Do you want to be Pacifi c World owns the trademark for friends? Circle yes or no. the GeoGirl name in multiple catego- The big-box retailer ries, including fashion, hair accessories, Wis determined to befriend the next gen- music, video games and school supplies. eration of beauty shoppers with a make- “This is a brand that could be built into up and skin care collection designed to a lifestyle brand,” said Joe Fracassi, tickle their interest in green living and president of Pacifi c World. their obsession with technology. For Pacifi c World, known for its nail The collection, called GeoGirl, is tai- care brands Nailene and Fing’rs, GeoGirl lored for eight- to 12-year-olds, an age marks it’s fi rst foray into color cosmetics. group that’s been tethered to a comput- The Lake Forest, Calif.-based company er, cell phone or some such device since intends for GeoGirl to be a departure birth, but that’s also concerned and en- from the toy-centered, playful tween gaged with protecting the environment. cosmetics lines on the market. Talk of green living is rampant in grade They may have been suitable schools and on playgrounds. (Case in for generations past, but point, I recently overheard my seven- word is that girls who are year-old niece lament the invention of part of generation Z — or cars, given “they run on gasoline and those born after 1990 — are pollute the earth.”) looking for authenticity and “GeoGirl is about teaching this gen- purpose. GeoGirl is also billed eration about beauty care in a respon- as “mother-approved makeup” sible way,” said Carmen Bauza, Wal- that appears bright and colorful in Mart Stores Inc.’s vice president and the package, but sheer on the skin. divisional merchandise manager of “It’s the fi rst door to beauty beauty and personal care, who said her for the next generation,” said niece — along with a host of tweens — Joel Carden, executive vice provided feedback on the range. “This president, marketing and [line] is a great learning experience for sales for Pacific World. us to determine how to communicate “These are real cosmetics with this generation.” with natural ingredients This pack of vocal tweens has also that will create return GR8 (Great) Lipshine, shown its propensity to get their par- purchases and create a above, and left, URA* ents to throw down some green for the true beauty consumer.” (You Are A Star) FaceShimmer. products they want. Tween buying power Formulas, designed across all product categories is roughly for delicate young skin, from the $3.99 iCU (I See You) sen by GeoGirl’s young customers. Girls $18 billion. In the beauty category, it’s contain natural ingre- Liquid2Powder Shadow to cannot purchase products directly from $24 million, with lip gloss, eye shadow dients, including white the $5.99 TiSC (This Is So geogirl.com, but they can place their fa- and mascara accounting for the bulk of willow bark to exfoliate; Cool) Body Mist. Marketing vorite items in a virtual makeup drawer spending, according to data from The chamomile, lavender and plans include an outreach that can be e-mailed to parents. And the NPD Group provided by Pacifi c World calendula to calm, and the an- to mom bloggers, online site will link to walmart.com. Corp., the maker of GeoGirl. tioxidants pomegranate and ads and the Feb. 21 launch GeoGirl will sell exclusively at Wal- The new range helps bolster Wal- green tea. The formulas are of geogirl.com. The Web Mart for at least one year, said Pacifi c Mart’s tween beauty assortment, which free of parabens, phthal- site will feature how-to World executives. currently includes lines such as Disney ates, sulfates, synthetic videos (for example, how to The line ties into Wal-Mart’s strategy Princesses, Lip Smackers, Lotta Luv, colors and fragrances and apply blush to the apple of the to pepper its beauty assortment with ex- FAB Beauty and Crayola. Bauza said other harsh ingredients. cheeks) and information on clusive, niche brands. Several years ago, Wal-Mart began merchandising these The products, housed in how to make the world a bet- Wal-Mart cleared room in the beauty de- brands together in a tween beauty set recyclable packaging, also ter planet. It will also feature partment for former indie darling Hard nearly two years ago and continues to are dermatologist and oph- a promotion inviting girls Candy and helped re-create the brand. add new brands to the assortment. thalmologist tested. to fi nish writing lyrics to a The retailer also is working with the min- GeoGirl, beginning Feb. 21, will oc- Product names in the 69- song composed by a yet-to- eral makeup brand Physicians Formula cupy the two feet of space in the 1,200 item collection play off of tex- be-named, upcoming teen on an upcoming, exclusive beauty line, doors vacated by the Mary-Kate and ting lingo, for instance a lip musical artist, said Janine slated to launch in the third quarter. Ashley cosmetics range, a former Wal- balm with SPF 15 is called J4G Coppola, senior market- Last fall, Bauza said of Wal-Mart’s hunt Mart exclusive that the retailer cut from (or for anyone over 25, Just 4 ing director at Pacifi c World. for smaller brands, “We embrace niche the assortment last fall. The Mary-Kate Grins), a cleanser is called There’s a philanthropic com- brands as long as they have innovation and Ashley tween customer “has grown T2G (Time to Go) and Bauza’s ponent as well, gg-Gives, and a point of difference.…We have seen up and the brand started to deterio- favorite is QTPi (Cutie Pie) which will donate a portion a lot of smaller brands fi lling [the void] rate,” said Bauza. Mineral Blush. Prices range of net profi ts to a charity cho- where the bigger brands are not going.”

KOC (Kiss On Cheeks) Cream Blush

FYEO (For Your Eyes Only) Feather Lash KIM FRIDAY Mascara STYLED BY CHINSEE; GEORGE BY

J4G (Just 4 Grins) Lip Balm SPF 15 PHOTOS 6 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 media MEMO PAD Fashion scoops DETAILS ORIENTED: Although it’s not exactly the typical “January surprise” DVF’S NEW MANTRA: A little slush wasn’t enough A piece Condé Nast employees have become accustomed to, the company unveiled a to keep Diane von Furstenberg and H.Stern chief from the little publisher reshuffling on Thursday, with Paul Jowdy leaving his post at Bon executive officer Ronaldo Stern away from lunch collaboration. Appétit to become publisher of Details. This position had been vacant for the past at The Modern on Wednesday to celebrate their latest year, but executive vice president and publishing director Bill Wackermann was collaboration. While this is the sixth year the designer put in charge of stabilizing the business and, as he put it, “getting it ready for a has worked with Stern, the partnership was a long time coming: “I seasoned publisher to take over.” Details ended last year down 1 percent in ad approached his father, Hans, 25 years ago, and he refused me, so I had to wait for his pages, to 777 pages. son to grow up,” said von Furstenberg, who went on to profess her lifelong love affair with “I’m the fixer,” Wackermann told WWD. “My hope is in one to two years, baubles. Her newest H.Stern collection, named Sutras, is inspired by 18th-century Indian mogul jewelry she collected until [Jowdy will] be off and running. It happened with Brides and now it’s on to Bon recently when auction prices rose. Donning an antique mogul ring on one hand and a new design — a rock-crystal and 18- Appétit.” Jowdy will be succeeded at Bon Appétit by Pamela Drucker Mann, a karat yellow gold teardrop ring — on the other, von Furstenberg explained how she borrowed the ancient technique to create rising star at the company who has served as associate publisher, advertising, the lineup, which will retail from $3,200 to $19,400 and hit stores in April. Von Furstenberg made sure to have her favorite at Glamour. For those keeping score at home, there’s still half a month left for “sutras” engraved on the back of the pieces, such as Love, Laughter, Freedom and Truth. more surprises. — AMY WICKS ANOTHER DIMENSION: Ermenegildo Zegna has tapped film director to create what is said to be the first 3-D fashion show. BIG STEP: It’s not often that a chief James Lima executive officer gets emotional when Dubbed “Live-D,” the fall 2011 Zegna show will take place Saturday talking about a new advertising campaign, during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. Mixing a live performance with a cinematic experience, models will be filmed backstage, and the but The Limited’s Linda Heasley has no other way of putting it. “The focus has images then will be projected on a giant screen against a 360-degree never been on us [within the company], filmed background, coinciding with the models’ arrival on the runway. but this campaign represents a major These will appear to walk off the screen, according to a source. comeback for us,” Heasley said from her Lima, who was a visual consultant on James Cameron’s 2009 film offices in Columbus, Ohio. “I mean, we’re “Avatar,” previously worked in fashion with Prada for the “Trembled going to be in the pages of Vogue!” Blossom” and “Fallen Shadow” short films, and with Love Magazine for the Versace “Modelgeddon” fashion short. Patrick Demarchelier shot model Kendra Spears (who will also appear in the new Calvin Klein campaign) in New ALL THAT GLITTERS: Swarovski Elements has tapped 16 men’s wear designers to create special items that will be unveiled at an event York City, under the direction of David for 600 guests at the Palazzo Clerici in Milan Saturday. The designs Lipman. “I was so taken by Linda and An ad featuring Kendra Spears. her passion for the brand,” Lipman said. range from tuxedos created by Emporio Armani, Brioni and Zegna “It felt so old fashioned to me. It’s just deeper than what I normally deal with. It’s to brogues from Salvatore Ferragamo and a fedora from Borsalino, old-school retailing. You can tell every customer really matters to her.” all of which incorporate Swarovski Elements crystals in unique Lipman put Spears on a city street, holding a surfboard, because he believes ways. Other participating designers include Gianfranco Ferré, Dior Homme, Piombo, Hugo Boss, Marni and Roberto Cavalli. The items Ferré’s this laid-back image will resonate not just in Manhattan, but all around the crystal- will be available commercially across a variety of retail channels. country to the woman “who wants to dress with style, her way.” In addition to studded Vogue, the campaign will run in Elle, Glamour, InStyle, Lucky, Marie Claire and “The crystals can genuinely give a new dimension to something quite evening look.look. People StyleWatch. classic,” noted Pringle of Scotland designer Clare Waight Keller. — A.W.

RUNWAY TO TV: Kicking off with the Golden Globes on Sunday, Calvin Klein Inc. is adding a new layer to its Calvin Klein Collection media strategy — television. A rarity for designer collections, CKI will unveil its first-ever Calvin Klein Collection commercial during the pre-Globes red-carpet programming, which will Clubbing With the Hilfigers run throughout NBC’s live broadcast of the awards and beyond. Fabien Baron By LISA LOCKWOOD directed the commercial, which features Lara Stone and Tyson Ballou in La two basset hounds, Morgan I and V, are back for another appearance. Jolla, Calif. The ad showcases the full Collection assortment, from clothes to “The Hilfigers” are heading to the country club “It takes us back to our roots, and it’s even clutches, belts, sunglasses and furniture. “It helps illustrate the lifestyle of our in Tommy Hilfiger’s spring advertising cam- more relevant for today,” said Hilfiger. “It clear- Collection,” said CKI president and chief executive officer Tom Murry. paign, which breaks next month. ly identifies who Tommy Hilfiger is as a global There are 15-, 30-, 60- and 90-second formats, which will continue to “We were inspired by the spring col- brand. We’re inclusive and eclectic, and we are run after the awards in 200 additional spots, including on “Extra,” “Access lection’s twisted take on preppy and the preppy to the max in a very hip way. It captures Hollywood,” “Today,” “Desperate Housewives,” “Modern Family,” “Anderson Hilfigers’ infatuation with American pas- our heritage and it celebrates a diverse group times,” said Tommy Hilfiger. of people.” Cooper 360” and the NFL playoffs — expecting to reach more than 20 million Spring ads show the Hilfigers, a fictional all- Called “El Country de-la-Club-ius,” the cam- viewers. For the next American family made paign will break world- four weeks, it also will up of eclectic characters, wide in a multimedia be shown on New York’s partaking in the preppy program encompassing TaxiTV, which should rites of spring. There is online, print, outdoor result in about 2.7 Sudden Death Croquet, and social media. Ads million impressions, and Triples Tennis, Sing-Along will run in the March Ping-Pong and a Golf Cart editions of major fashion on vogue.com. A stillstill fromfrom thethe Calvin Klein Road Rally. The images magazines; outdoors, and Murry declined to Calvin Klein Collection feature the characters in on tommy.com and the disclose the size of commercial. full-out preppy regalia, brand’s Facebook and the media buy, but the wearing clothing from Twitter channels. brand-centric clip can go all of Hilfiger’s lines: the Hilfiger officials de- well beyond this fashion season. “We feel it has a fairly extensive shelf life and we global runway collection; clined to reveal the the U.S. sportswear col- spring budget. Hilfiger can run it again this year, or next year,” Murry said. “This is iconic Calvin product. lection sold at Macy’s; the spent $32 million on mar- We can run it in Milan or in Tokyo, or around a store-opening event, for instance. European sportswear col- The Hilfigers spend a summer day at the country keting in 2009, excluding It really has multiple usages.” lections, and the respec- club in the spring campaign. fragrances, according to Stone also will be in the spring print women’s Collection ads shot by tive licensed accessories. published reports. In a Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. The men’s Collection ads, by Steven Klein, Hilfiger’s company generates volume of $2.6 bil- story in July about the launch of “The Hilfigers” feature model Nils Butler. Alas and Piggott also shot the ck Calvin Klein spring lion worldwide, with the Macy’s exclusive collec- global campaign, Avery Baker, executive vice tions accounting for $250 million of it. president of global marketing and communi- campaign with Stone, Liu Wen, Alexander Johansson and Tomas Guarracino. Photographed in Los Angeles by Craig cations at Hilfiger, a division of Phillips-Van Meanwhile, the Calvin Klein apparel and accessories ads, by Alasdair McLellan, McDean, the ads were styled by Karl Templer. Heusen Corp., noted the company planned to feature models Edita Vilkeviciute, Kendra Spears and David Smith. Trey Laird of Laird+Partners served as creative increase its spending for the year by 60 percent. — MARC KARIMZADEH director. The cast is the same from the fall 2010 The firm spent an additional $7.5 million on TV campaign, along with a few new members. The holiday spots. WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 7 eye Fair Rosamund Rosamund Pike of “Barney’s Version” talks about playing the ideal woman.

It often seems that If an englIsh actress amount of respect for,” Pike explains. “of course we don’t is of fair complexion and delicate features, and see her flaws, because it’s Barney’s version of events. I possesses a plummy accent, she is destined for roles thought people were going to be irritated by her, because that demand an “english rose” — mostly marked by she’s so perfect, but I’ve been surprised by this huge tightly corseted flights through weepy period pieces amount of men who’ve said, ‘miriam is the ideal woman.’ and the occasional bumbling turn in a romantic com- she’s not obviously flirtatious or sexy or any of the things edy. rosamund Pike, despite boasting all the required we’re taught that women should be to attract men.s he’s attributes — as well as an incredibly apt name and, just forgiving, endlessly forgiving.” earlier this week at the crosby hotel, a requisite pot Pike continues: “It’s about adults, love, the chaos of of earl grey tea — dispels that demure ideal within life both well and badly lived. It’s about someone [Barney] five minutes of conversation. who lives irrepressibly and at this crazy frenetic level. I “Well, you know, there are no small parts,” Pike says love characters like that. I love people who don’t give a before emphatically slapping the table with an open hand damn about what anybody thinks.” and grinning. “said the tart to the vicar!” Dustin hoffman, who plays Barney’s father, memora- there is an undeniable appeal to a formally trained and bly offered Pike some off-camera advice. invariably polite actress who does not let an opportunity for “Dustin and I didn’t get a lot of face time, except one a dirty joke slip her by. cineplex viewers may still be most bit of very close face time, where he stared into my eyes Rosamund Pike familiar with Pike for her star-making turn as Bond girl- incredibly closely until we both started crying and said, cum-villainess miranda frost in 2002’s “Die another Day” ‘that’s intimacy,’ and sort of walked off,” she says. “But (“I’ve still got my sword at home, the one Inearly skewered he’s right! Working with Paul [giamatti], we were able to be along with the inevitable push for bigger projects and halle Berry with!”), but in recent years she’s honed her craft really intimate, and it’s not about touching or sex scenes, subsequent full-fledged stardom? in somewhat smaller films. she played opposite Johnny it’s about the ability to look someone ‘for real’ in the face. “I’ve probably been a bit naïve with my career,” she Depp in “the libertine” and Keira Knightley in “Pride and really looking at someone and being able to see their soul.” says. “I wasn’t ambitious enough in my early 20s, or I felt Prejudice,” and stole nearly every scene she was in as the Pike has several upcoming projects, among them it was rather sort of unseemly to go out there and present dim-yet-devious helen in 2009’s “an education.” a British-produced romp with rowan atkinson that myself. I was worried about it. Yo u do a Bond film and her latest film, “Barney’s Version,” a cinematic ad- winks at the 007 franchise by reimagining the British you’re known by everybody but respected by very few. I aptation of mordecai richler’s novel of the same name, secret service re-fashioned into an aggressively politi- didn’t want to put myself out there until I knew people re- opens in limited release today. Pike plays miriam, the cally correct organization. ally wanted to see me. now seems a good time to take it to idealized soulmate of Paul giamatti’s abrasive (though “the sort of agents along James Bond’s worst night- the next level. I’ve seen people rise and fall, even just in secretly sweet) Barney. mare,” she smiles, aware of the irony of starring in a film the past eight years. I’ve seen people shoot up and disap- “miriam is a wonderful character, based on a real that pokes fun at her first big-budget picture. pear. I’m in it for the long haul.” woman [florence richler] whom I have a tremendous Does Pike see a relocation stateside in her future, — AlessAndrA CodinhA

Q&A he was very young. he showed up at Roosevelt in uniform. the new York state assembly on his first day on exactly the same day that Talking Teddy oscar Wilde arrived in the United states. there were a lot of caricatures starting with 1979’s Pulitzer Prize- and news comments in the press of this Theodore RooseveltRoosevelt winning “the rise of theodore dandified young representative from inin Providence,Providence, R.I.R.I. roosevelt,” biographer edmund morris the “silk stocking district.” so in those has spent a healthy chunk of the last days, t.r. was rather conscious of his 30 years chronicling the life of the 26th appearance, but as soon as he went west president of the United states. the latest to be a cowboy four years later, he began and final of his three-volume portrait of to lose interest in the way he looked. roosevelt, “colonel roosevelt,” follows although even when he was there, come the ex-president through his final decade to think of it, he took great pride in his as he goes on a post-White house safari custom-made buckskin suits and wanted in africa, makes an unsuccessful bid for to be photographed in them for his first a third term in 1912 (and is the target of book, “hunting trips of a ranchman.” an assassination attempt) and watches even as late as his rough rider period, AQUINO from the sidelines as the United states the doctor said that he had never seen he was getting his uniforms tailored by

JOHN enters into World War I. WWD spoke to such a powerful chest on any patient. Brooks Brothers. But as far as elegance Y b morris about the always manly and often his musculature was part of what saved is concerned, and fashion, he completely

PIKE wonderfully complicated style of, as the him. to have built up this mass of bone lost interest in that when he went out ; author calls him, “t.r.” and muscle out of a really pathetic west in the mid-1880s. and for the rest of RARY b

I — MATTheW lYnCh inheritance was quite an achievement. his life was really unconscious of what L E he wore. he just dressed comfortably. g WWD: Where did roosevelt get WWD: there’s the physical aspect of OLLE

C this idea of himself as sort of an it, but there’s also his robust sense of WWD: In reading the prologue [which ultramasculine character? adventure. Was that characteristic of chronicles roosevelt’s post-presidential

ARVARD Edmund Morris: Well in the first place, he men of his class at the time or was there hunting trip in africa to collect /H had all the ancestral requirements. he something self-made in that as well? specimens for the smithsonian], it’s hard was a Knickerbocker and he was born E.M.: to a certain extent it was typical not to think of some political pageantry to privilege so he took that for granted. of upper-class WasPs of that period. that we’ve seen on tV recently. any OLLECTION

C he was a harvard gent, but his physical they were expected to be virile hunters thoughts on what roosevelt would have endowment was so threatened as a child and explorers: gentlemen adventurers. made of “sarah Palin’s alaska”? — doctors figured he was not going to he certainly personified that sort of E.M.: oh, I don’t really like to OOSEVELT

R last beyond his third birthday: asthma, ideal, but what differentiated him from speculate on things like that. he’s long heart problems and all the rest. so he the rest of them was that he was never dead. I can only say that one thing he had to build his body up. he had no need content just to be the gentleman playboy. always recoiled from was vulgarity. HEODORE to build up his self-esteem but he had he believed that he ought to fight for a and he was by no means a populist. OF T to build up his body, which he did over position in government and actually start she appeals to a kind of lower a process of many years. It’s really not controlling the affairs of men. he very strata of society than the strata he

OURTESY until his mid-20s that he got himself the much wanted to be a leader and he was addressed. he was very middle class equipment, physically, that he needed. never happy unless he had total power. in his morality and his ideology. he did not have any particular interest WWD: What was that equipment? WWD: Did roosevelt’s adventuring in or compassion for the lower orders. E.M.: Well, it was a huge chest and a ever inform his style of dress? he believed that government was the robust body. When he was shot in 1912, E.M.: oh, he was a major dandy when province of the elite. PHOTOS C ROOSEVELT 8 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 exposure [eye photo] Milling Around Hermès rang in 2011 with a dinner at its workshop inin the Paris suburb of Pantin this week, where even the table service was a work of art. Dinner rolls arrived by catapult, sugar cubes came via fi shing pole and the act of adding a dash of pepper was turned on its head.

PHOTO BY FREDERIC CHEHU WWD, FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 5 WWD.COM

RETAIL cELEbRITy Gap Plays It Cautious With Athleta An Authentic Marilyn By JOANNA RAMEY level,” said Toby Lenk, president of Gap Inc. By LISA LOCKWOOD is through traditional licensing. For and ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Direct. He described sales growth in the “double starters, Monroe will appear as the digits before and in the double digits” after Gap Marilyn Monroe is about to become face of a new Christian Dior beauty SAN FRANCISCO — Gap Inc. may have bought the online retailer in 2008 for $150 million. a bigger brand. ad campaign worldwide this year, opened its first Athleta flagship here, but it’s However, company officials aren’t in a Authentic Brands Group LLC, said Salter. in no hurry to open more. hurry to roll out a lot of stores, Lenk said, in conjunction with NECA, a glob- Among the top categories Salter The caution could be wise, since Gap declining to estimate a potential number. al media and entertainment com- is eager to license are apparel Inc.’s history with spin-offs has hardly “It’s really up to the customer. They’ve been pany, has acquired the intellectual (high fashion and sportswear); jew- been a bright spot. In 1987, it launched asking us to open stores for a long time,” property of Marilyn Monroe LLC. elry; cosmetics; personal care; fra- Hemisphere, a nine-store upscale concept he said, noting that a test Athleta in a sub- Anna Strasberg, wife of the late Lee grances, and accessories (handbags, that died two years later. In 2007, the retailer urban mall near San Francisco showed that Strasberg, will continue her involve- footwear and sunglasses). Salter shuttered its 24-door misses’ concept Forth for every $1 spent online, customers bought ment as a minority partner in the is currently negotiating a health & Towne after it failed to generate accept- another $4 in the store. Additionally, market joint venture. According to industry and beauty deal, which should be able sales in its first 18 months. surveys have shown only 50 percent aware- sources, the purchase price was be- completed within 30 days. A major ness of the brand. tween $20 million and $30 million. fashion deal that would incorporate In May, WWD reported that Monroe, a style icon who rede- sportswear and denim should be Gap was rolling out Athleta test fined sexy for generations of men signed in about 60 days, he said. He stores in Mill Valley, Calif., and and women, died in 1962. expects new Monroe merchandise to in the San Francisco Bay area. “Marilyn Monroe is recognized start hitting the stores in the fourth The overall $58.5 billion U.S. around the world as the embodi- quarter of 2011 and the first quarter activewear market has been one ment of beauty and glamour. Quite of 2012. Products will be aimed at of the bright spots in apparel simply, her name and her image the mass to midtier level, and the sales in the sour economy, accord- have timeless appeal. We feel deals may be exclusive, said Salter. ing to The NPD Group. The U.S. fortunate to be responsible for “I think it can become a very women’s sports togs and after- the future long-term success of large franchise worldwide. It has exercise apparel market is the the Marilyn Monroe brand,” said a global appeal. Marilyn Monroe strongest, comprising 57 percent Jamie Salter, chairman and chief means just as much in Japan and of sales, while men’s is 31 percent executive officer of Authentic Korea as it does here — in some and children’s, 16 percent. For Brands. ABG currently manages cases, it may mean more,” he said. the year ending November, wom- the Bob Marley brand en’s activewear sales increased 2 and owns the Tapout and Inside Athleta. percent to $31 billion. Silver Star brands. Although the niche isn’t bro- Over the past 20 years, Marilyn Monroe ken out into segments, Lenk said 1,975 deals for Marilyn Gap acquired and developed Banana the “vast majority” of women’s sports cloth- Monroe have been signed, Republic and started Old Navy itself, and ing is produced for the mass market. Athleta ranging from intimate ap- both have become household names. But is hoping to appeal to this market with its at- parel to wine, and, in the both nameplates have struggled, according tention to detail, such as hidden pockets for past year alone, some 140 to Robert Buchanan, an instructor in the fi- personal electronics; printed textiles, and af- deals have been signed, nance department of the John Cook School ter-exercise apparel like halter dresses with said Salter, who negotiated of Business at Saint Louis University and a built-in bras ($89), shear hoodie dresses ($78) with the Strasberg family former retail analyst at A.G. Edwards. and black quilted miniskirts ($89). for seven months. Today, “Gap’s overall business has been disap- Athleta faces a formidable competitor, there are about 54 live pointing,” he said, adding, though, that “the however, in Lululemon Athletica Inc. With deals worldwide. Some of company as a whole clearly needs growth.” its premium price points, the successful these are short-term deals The retailer clearly sees potential in yoga apparel and activewear brand handily and nonexclusives. the booming $31 billion U.S. women’s ac- beat Wall Street estimates last year. Earlier Going forward, there tivewear market for Athleta, which, up this week, Lululemon raised fourth-quarter will be three ways in which until now, has focused on e-commerce and guidance to between 55 cents and 57 cents a Marilyn Monroe licensing catalogues. The new store here on upper diluted share, up from between 46 cents and will operate: One is to bor- Fillmore Street in the well-heeled neighbor- 48 cents. Analysts are looking for 49 cents. row the name and likeness hood of Pacific Heights has transformed a According to Buchanan, what could bene- for ad campaigns; the sec- dark 5,000-square-foot Junior League charity fit Athleta are its price points on staple items ond is to use the Marilyn shop into an open space inspired by rustic like yoga pants, which are generally lower Monroe likeness, via com- BETTMAN/CORBIS Northern California wine country, with high than Lululemon’s prices. puter-generated technol- ceilings, exposed red brick, reclaimed wood “Lululemon sets a high pricing umbrel- ogy, in films, and the third PHOTO BY trim and industrial metal fixtures. la. It’s a bit like competing against Ralph “Certainly we think there’s potential for the Lauren,” he said, “But, like anything, it will new store to bring [the business] to the next come down to the product.” Industry Imports Gain in Nov.

By LIZA CASABONA textile imports increased 21.1 percent Fast Retailing Profits Slide 34.9% to 1.2 billion SME. Combined imports WASHINGTON — Textile and ap- from Vietnam advanced 47.9 percent By KELLY WETHERILLE an increase of 3 percent year-on-year with various parel imports to the U.S. rose to 258 million SME, as apparel ship- business cost-cutting initiatives also anticipated to 20.1 percent in November com- ments increased 44.2 percent to 176 TOKYO — Fast Retailing Co. Ltd., parent of boost profitability further,” the company said. pared with a year earlier, to 4.6 million SME and textiles rose 56.4 per- Japanese fast-fashion label Uniqlo, reported First-quarter operating profit for the peri- billion square meter equivalents, cent to 83 million SME. a 34.9 percent drop in net profits in the first od dropped 18.4 percent to 49.853 billion yen, representing the lowest volume India saw shipments rise 24.7 quarter ended Nov. 30 to 22.71 billion yen, or or $601.73 million. This is 5 billion yen, or of shipments in five months, the percent to 274 million SME, with $274.1 million at average exchange. $60.35 million, higher than the company’s ini- Commerce Department’s Office of apparel growing 24.4 percent to The company said Thursday that sales tial forecast for the period, buoyed by higher Textiles & Apparel said Thursday. 74 million SME and textiles in- for the period dropped 4.7 percent to 250.99 sales and lower expenses than expected. Inventory restocking drove ship- creasing 24.8 percent to 200 mil- billion yen, or $3.03 billion. Uniqlo, which Unlike Uniqlo’s domestic performance, the ments to peak levels from June lion SME. Combined imports from previously was showing continuous signs company’s international operations gained in through October. Apparel imports Bangladesh rose 53.5 percent to 148 of strong growth, has reported decreases both sales and profit. First-quarter sales rose in November increased 23.9 per- million SME, driven primarily by in same-store sales over the past months. 29.3 percent compared with the previous year cent to 2.1 billion SME compared apparel shipments. November figures fell 14.5 percent, and to 26.8 billion yen, or $323.48 million. with a year earlier, while textile Other countries showing major December same-store sales, which will likely Uniqlo International’s operating income shipments grew 17.1 percent to 2.5 growth in shipments in November affect the company’s second-quarter perfor- surged 52.5 percent to 4.8 billion yen, or billion SME. were Indonesia, Pakistan, Canada, mance, were down 15.5 percent. $57.94 million. These increases are largely The nation’s overall trade deficit Honduras and Cambodia. “Uniqlo Japan same-store sales suffered due to the company’s aggressive growth narrowed slightly to $38.3 billion All the top 10 countries saw in- a double-digit contraction [of 12.3 percent] throughout Asia over the past year, includ- in November from $38.4 billion in creases in November, except South year-on-year in the first quarter, resulting in ing its first store in Taiwan, which opened in October. Korea, which saw shipments drop large part from lingering summer weather October. The region has seen “unprecedent- Gregory Daco, senior econo- 21.1 percent to 96 million SME. and results overshadowed in comparison ed sales strength,” according to the company. mist for IHS Global Insight, said, President Obama could soon send with the extremely strong sales of the previ- On Thursday, the company maintained “This should represent the last the U.S.-South Korea free trade ous year,” the company said. its full-year profit guidance but cut its sales drop in the trade deficit for 2010, agreement to Congress for approval. A spokesman for Fast Retailing said Uniqlo forecast from 856 billion yen, or $10.29 bil- as we expect the trade deficit to According to OTEXA, the top ap- Japan’s same-store sales are expected to de- lion at current exchange, to 846 billion yen, widen in December.” parel suppliers in November were cline by 9.8 percent overall for the first half or $10.17 billion, a 3.8 percent increase on Combined industry shipments from China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Indonesia ending Feb. 28, but the company said it expects last year’s sales figures. The revised sales China rose 20.9 percent to 2.1 billion and Honduras. China was also the top some turnaround for the second half of the year. forecast is based on lower expectations for SME — apparel imports advanced textile supplier, followed by India, “Same-store sales are seen improving to record sales at Uniqlo Japan. 20.7 percent to 862 million SME, and Pakistan, Mexico and Canada. 6 WWD, FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 WWD.COM

Jil Sander N°21 Moschino

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WWD.com/ STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO,

girly flourishes. fashion-shows-reviews BY PHOTOS For more images and video WWD, FRIDAY, JANUARY 14, 2011 7 oF the collection, see WWD.COM WWD.com/ menswear-news Stills from Gareth Pugh’s film.

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The glorious force of Florence’s cobalt blue, symbolizing, in his eyes, imagery flashed through a blue-clad monuments is enough to enlighten the femininity and virginity, that appeared demonic Virgin Mary, played by Pugh darkest of sensibilities. Among the on billowing, ethereal silhouettes. The collaborator and model Natasa Vojnovic; converts, Pitti W’s guest designer designer’s profanity surfaced in gold — “It’s a pagan bird-like figure in a 3-D mirrored Gareth Pugh created a divine very Versace and Cavalli, it’s loud, rich and getup and alabaster human statues. As moment as he showed his latest vibrant,” he said of the metallic hue, which for the clothes, a neoprene sleeve here, a fashion film on Thursday night at the he applied to sculptural, mirrored pieces. body-conscious laser-cut dress there, and city’s medieval Orsanmichele church. Projected on the ceiling, Pugh created lightweight, voluminous gowns played out Borrowing from the site’s religious his own modern-day digital fresco. as the genesis for Pugh’s forthcoming Paris iconography, Pugh embraced color, namely Directed by Ruth Hogben, the frenetic show in March.

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For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces DESIGNER Fishman and Tobin, Inc a Manhattan GARMENT PROD MGR COMMERCIAL manufacturer of Children’s Wear has Womens Apparel Co seeks an organ- an opening for a Designer to research ized person w/extensive knowledge of REAL ESTATE the market place on a continuous basis garment construction. Must have ASST. DESIGNER to provide brand accurate and innova- excell computer skills to correspond tive trend right design presentations daily w/factories overseas and to create Fishman and Tobin, Inc. a Manhattan to the merchandiser. manufacturer of children’s wear has an detailed tech packs. Knowledge of opening for an Assistant Designer. Responsibilities include: Shop domes- Mandarin & or Cantonese a plus. The major areas of responsibility will tic and international markets for color, Fax 212.695.7548 be: silhouette, and fabric direction. Create Email [email protected] color and mood boards each season to • Provide support to designer in for- provide licensors, sales and buyers Showrooms & Lofts mulating creative and innovative prod- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS with a visual presentation of what the uct designs. overall feeling of the Jewelry Designer Great ’New’ Office Space Avail • Assist in the creation of color and ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 collection/classifications will be. Over- NYC Jewelry Mfr seeks a F/T Perm mood boards each season adhering to see and correct tech packages both Jewelry Designer w/ up to 3 yrs Design calendar; put colors, fabric into work aesthetically and technically. Coordi- exp, jewelry design schooling, sketch- on time to ensure all samples will be nate with licensors to review their ing & tech drawing skills & Photoshop ready for costing meetings and market lines and direction. Utilize like con- proficiency. E-mail resumes w/ sal reqs week. cepts between the two where appropri- to [email protected] • Create garment tech packages ate to provide synergy between classi- Glen Cove Retail Opportunity Input patterns/bodies into CAD and as- fications. Create new, brand right, sil- prime location sist in the making of presentation houettes and designs details for each 24,000 cars per day boards. season as well as develop updated fits MARKETING • Provide CADS/Visual merchandis- 87 Forest Ave., 2,400 sq ft + 3,576 sq ft if/when necessary. Remain on calen- Florida Beauty company. Experi- strong national co-tenants ing sheets to sales each season. dar to ensure all samples will be made • Shop market place for color, silhou- enced. Creation & maintenance of Michael 212-682-4211 on time for each costing meeting and beauty lines’ Image, placement, new ette and fabric direction. market week. Present line to Merchan- • Trend research prods. Dynamic company marketing Southampton Retail Opportunity diser. Domestic and Overseas develop- cosmetics for 30 years. [email protected] prime location Candidate must have a degree in De- ment travel. 6,748 sq. ft sign and/or Merchandising. 3 years de- Requirements: A degree in one or expansion potential to 8,550 sf sign and graphic design preferred. more of the following areas: Design, $60/sf NNN, free-standing Computer skills required: Illustrator, Merchandising Michael 212-682-4211 Photoshop, Excel and knowledge of Experience: 5 years experience, 2-3 PDM is a plus. years in the Children’s Wear Industry. Perfect candidate will be a great com- Woven classification experience pre- municator, fast learner with the ability ferred. to multi-task and complete simultane- Other Qualification or Skills: Comput- ous projects within tight deadline. er skills - Photoshop, Illustrator, and Please email resume and salary re- Microsoft Office programs, creative quirements to [email protected]. and artistic skills in design and pre- sentation, effective communication skills (presentation and written), good DESIGNER PATTERNS, SAMPLES, problem solving skills, ability to meet Edgy, Indie, Contemporary LA based deadlines. PRODUCTIONS brand seeks designer. Minimum 5 Full service shop to the trade. years exp. Established brand Please email resume and salary re- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 w/benefits. Fax resume (323) 464-0819 quirements to: [email protected]

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