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Pilot Season PARIS LIGHTS BEACH VIEW JENNIFER LAWRENCE AND CHARLIZE THERON WERE TWO OF THE STARS TURNING OUT FOR TEXTILE PREVIEW DIOR’S COUTURE SHOWS. PAGE 15 FIRMS GET SET TO DISPLAY THEIR FALL 2015 TEXTILE COLLECTIONS IN NEW YORK – AND TALK ABOUT THE TRENDS IN PRODUCTION AND SOURCING. PAGES 8 TO 12 BEN WATTS SHOOTS A PHOTO DIARY OF THE 12TH ANNUAL SHARK ATTACK PARTY IN MONTAUK. PAGE 14 EXCLUSIVE Ellen’s Next Gig: Lifestyle Guru By BRIDGET FOLEY “I WOULDN’T BE DOING THIS if I didn’t want it to be the biggest brand name that you can imagine.” Meet the speaker: design’s latest lifestyle-brand maven, Ellen DeGeneres. “This” is E.D., DeGeneres’ nascent lifestyle brand TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY launching with a gift-oriented capsule collection for WWD holiday. Despite the obvious invocation of DeGeneres’ initials, the brand’s name is Ed (like Koch, Sullivan and Wilbur’s chatty horse from the long-ago sitcom), a COUTURE nickname bestowed on DeGeneres by her wife, Portia de Rossi. As for the dots, they’re more design ele- ments than punctuation. PARIS Fully realized, E.D. will encompass categories FA L L 2 014 from home to fashion to chic wares for some of DeGeneres’ favorite friends — dogs and cats. And she’s thinking big. “I’m not trying to launch a little boutique situation,” DeGeneres told WWD over lunch on New York’s Upper East Side. To that end, she calls the project her “next phase,” one she expects to fl our- ish and occupy her professional attentions full-time, long after her talk-show days are done. She’s not in it alone. DeGeneres is partnering Pilot with J. Christopher Burch of Burch Creative Capital, the fl amboyant, idiosyncratic private equity group through which Burch has launched and-or invested in a range of endeavors, from tiny to huge, in vari- ous disciplines — fashion, technology, resorts. Marisa Gardini, most recently longtime president and chief Season executive offi cer of Isaac Mizrahi, has signed on as Couture fl ight suits? Roger managing partner (that’s code for president with an that, Raf. Modern riffs on equity stake). In addition, an experience-rich board astronaut garb, including has been assembled, with Michael Francis, chief global brand offi cer of DreamWorks Animation and this embroidered jumpsuit, former global chief marketing offi cer of Target Corp., were but one of eight distinct and Janet Grove, former chief executive offi cer of Macy’s Merchandising Group, as members with equity sections in Raf Simons’ Dior stakes. Francis was instrumental in bringing the sides haute couture show. For SEE PAGE 6 more, see pages 4 and 5. FEDERATION’S NEW HEAD Toledano Aims to Boost Paris’ Place in Fashion By MILES SOCHA PARIS — Who could have imagined 15 years ago that men’s fashion week in Paris would become a force to be reckoned with? Certainly not Ralph Toledano, the newly elected president of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. “Nobody cared about Paris for men’s back then,” he said, marveling that the showcase has blossomed into a bustling fi ve-day affair, arguably overshadow- ing Europe’s traditional men’s runway hub of Milan. “Because we are strong, Thom Browne shows here and we are happy to have him. Something has hap- pened in this country.” According to federation tallies, there were 36 men’s shows in 1999 versus 51 last month. Toledano, who is also to continue as president of the fashion division at Puig, arrives at the helm of French fashion’s governing body to fi nd the fashion capital in rude health — which is why he is adopting an urgent, proactive stance to widen Paris’ lead. “You have to challenge yourself tremendously because you want to stay on top and you want to be better,” he said. “We want the most exciting shows to happen here.” He acknowledged a changing of the guard at fashion weeks in Milan and London in the past two years — with the Italian Camera Nazionale della Moda appointing advertising guru Jane Reeve as its PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 3 2 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 Juicy’s Global Push Starts With Asia THE BRIEFING BOX sportswear and footwear collections,” the ceo said. IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG He added that Pink Label will likely expand to Canada and in select international markets next AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP is pushing hard to year “where it makes sense.” expand Juicy Couture’s presence globally. ABG’s long-term partnerships typically run for Nora Shopova The brand management firm, which owns the an initial period of 10 years, followed by two op- outside WWD’s rights to the intellectual property of the Juicy tion periods of five years each. The ImagineX part- offices. For more Couture brand, has locked up a long-term distri- nership allows it to open Juicy stores across Hong on the model, bution agreement with the ImagineX Group to ac- Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Mainland China, Singapore, see WWD.com. celerate the growth of the Juicy Couture brand in Malaysia and Thailand. Greater China and Southeast Asia. ImagineX is the distributor for the Juicy brand, but ABG expects to ink five more distribution agree- its agreement since 2007 was with its former owner. ments for other territories around the world over the Under the terms of the new agreement, ABG and next few weeks, and is in negotiations with potential ImagineX are evaluating possibilities to add to the partners to expand Juicy in five countries where the current product offerings, such as intimates and brand doesn’t yet have a presence. Some potential Juicy Couture Girls. The latest category addition, partners ABG is in talks with are existing distributors footwear by Steve Madden, will be available in Asia of the Juicy brand, while others would be new ones. in the spring. MORELAND ABG in April signed with The Folli Follie Group ABG told WWD last month it is eyeing freestand- to handle the exclusive wholesale and retail dis- ing stores overseas for intimates and girls, respond- LEXIE tribution rights for continental Europe, where ing to requests from its partners for concept stores BY there are 24 stores, including outlets, across the in those categories. PHOTO region. A 25th store will open in mid-September in There is a network of 85 stores in the region con- Greece in the Thessaloniki City Center at the Attica sisting of Greater China and Southeast Asia. Department Store. As for its partnership with ImagineX, Salter ABG acquired the Juicy brand last year from said, “We look forward to working with ImagineX to Ellen DeGeneres is entering the design game with E.D., a Kate Spade & Co., formerly Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc., further accelerate Juicy Couture’s growth in Asia, lifestyle brand launching with a gift-oriented capsule collection for $196 million. consistent with our long-term goals for the brand in for holiday. PAGE 1 According to Jamie Salter, ABG’s chairman global markets.” and chief executive officer, all overseas full-price Thomson Cheng, managing director of ImagineX, Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération Française de la stores, shops-in-shop and outlets, as well as the e- said, “Juicy Couture’s business is thriving in Greater Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de commerce site that just relaunched, carry the core China and we’re excited to be working with ABG to Mode, discusses the future of Paris fashion. PAGE 1 Juicy Couture Black Label Collection. The brand is implement its lifestyle vision. We see great potential distributed in 58 countries. for the brand expanding into the highly prized foot- Donna Karan has collaborated with Steven Sebring on a short Interest in the Juicy brand is particularly com- wear category, and creating new opportunities in film that captures the “Woman in Motion.” PAGE 3 pelling overseas, Salter said, because of consumer contemporary fashion intimates and girls collections demand for authentic American brands that have that are to date untapped in this market.” Ten years later, Andrew Olah’s Kingpins show has become far been invented in the U.S. and designed here. Next up on the international front are partner- more than an afterthought. PAGE 8 Li & Fung Ltd.’s Global Brands Group, which ship agreements with MAF, or the Majid Al Futtaim is set to go public in Hong Kong today, is respon- Group, for the Middle East; JamilCo Group for Several major trade shows will take place in New York to sible for the design and manufacture of Juicy’s Russia; Rustan’s Group for the Philippines; the PAGE 10 apparel products. ABG has licensing deals with Handsome Corp. for South Korea, and the Demsa create a forum for the latest textile trends. Steven Madden for footwear, Elizabeth Arden Group for Turkey, according to Salter. for fragrance, Movado for watches, Safilo for eye- ABG is also in discussions with El Palacio de Sourcing executives are taking a look at several sub-Saharan wear, Contour for tech accessories and Swimwear Hierro for its Mexican partnership and is in ne- African countries as viable apparel sourcing alternatives. PAGE 12 Anywhere for swimwear. gotiations with two potential partners for parts of In the U.S., ABG will be opening new Juicy con- Latin America. Other negotiations include similar New tablet-only app Lou is looking to put fashion’s social cept stores next year that will carry Black Label. agreements for India, Israel, Japan, South Africa musings in one place.
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