PARIS LIGHTS BEACH VIEW JENNIFER LAWRENCE AND CHARLIZE THERON WERE TWO OF THE STARS TURNING OUT FOR TEXTILE PREVIEW DIOR’S COUTURE SHOWS. PAGE 15 FIRMS GET SET TO DISPLAY THEIR FALL 2015 TEXTILE COLLECTIONS IN NEW YORK – AND TALK ABOUT THE TRENDS IN PRODUCTION AND SOURCING. PAGES 8 TO 12 BEN WATTS SHOOTS A PHOTO DIARY OF THE 12TH ANNUAL SHARK ATTACK PARTY IN MONTAUK. PAGE 14

EXCLUSIVE Ellen’s Next Gig: Lifestyle Guru

By BRIDGET FOLEY

“I WOULDN’T BE DOING THIS if I didn’t want it to be the biggest brand name that you can imagine.” Meet the speaker: design’s latest lifestyle-brand maven, Ellen DeGeneres. “This” is E.D., DeGeneres’ nascent lifestyle brand TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY launching with a gift-oriented capsule collection for WWD holiday. Despite the obvious invocation of DeGeneres’ initials, the brand’s name is Ed (like Koch, Sullivan and Wilbur’s chatty horse from the long-ago sitcom), a COUTURE nickname bestowed on DeGeneres by her wife, Portia de Rossi. As for the dots, they’re more design ele- ments than punctuation. PARIS Fully realized, E.D. will encompass categories FA L L 2 014 from home to fashion to chic wares for some of DeGeneres’ favorite friends — dogs and cats. And she’s thinking big. “I’m not trying to launch a little boutique situation,” DeGeneres told WWD over lunch on New York’s Upper East Side. To that end, she calls the project her “next phase,” one she expects to fl our- ish and occupy her professional attentions full-time, long after her talk-show days are done. She’s not in it alone. DeGeneres is partnering Pilot with J. Christopher Burch of Burch Creative Capital, the fl amboyant, idiosyncratic private equity group through which Burch has launched and-or invested in a range of endeavors, from tiny to huge, in vari- ous disciplines — fashion, technology, resorts. Marisa Gardini, most recently longtime president and chief Season executive offi cer of Isaac Mizrahi, has signed on as Couture fl ight suits? Roger managing partner (that’s code for president with an that, Raf. Modern riffs on equity stake). In addition, an experience-rich board astronaut garb, including has been assembled, with Michael Francis, chief global brand offi cer of DreamWorks Animation and this embroidered jumpsuit, former global chief marketing offi cer of Target Corp., were but one of eight distinct and Janet Grove, former chief executive offi cer of Macy’s Merchandising Group, as members with equity sections in Raf Simons’ Dior stakes. Francis was instrumental in bringing the sides haute couture show. For SEE PAGE 6 more, see pages 4 and 5. FEDERATION’S NEW HEAD Toledano Aims to Boost Paris’ Place in Fashion By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Who could have imagined 15 years ago that men’s fashion week in Paris would become a force to be reckoned with? Certainly not Ralph Toledano, the newly elected president of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. “Nobody cared about Paris for men’s back then,” he said, marveling that the showcase has blossomed into a bustling fi ve-day affair, arguably overshadow- ing Europe’s traditional men’s runway hub of Milan. “Because we are strong, Thom Browne shows here and we are happy to have him. Something has hap- pened in this country.” According to federation tallies, there were 36 men’s shows in 1999 versus 51 last month. Toledano, who is also to continue as president of the fashion division at Puig, arrives at the helm of French fashion’s governing body to fi nd the fashion capital in rude health — which is why he is adopting an urgent, proactive stance to widen Paris’ lead. “You have to challenge yourself tremendously because you want to stay on top and you want to be better,” he said. “We want the most exciting shows to happen here.” He acknowledged a changing of the guard at fashion weeks in Milan and London in the past two years — with the Italian Camera Nazionale della Moda appointing advertising guru Jane Reeve as its PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 3 2 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014

Juicy’s Global Push Starts With Asia THE BRIEFING BOX sportswear and footwear collections,” the ceo said. IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG He added that Pink Label will likely expand to Canada and in select international markets next AUTHENTIC BRANDS GROUP is pushing hard to year “where it makes sense.” expand Juicy Couture’s presence globally. ABG’s long-term partnerships typically run for Nora Shopova The brand management firm, which owns the an initial period of 10 years, followed by two op- outside WWD’s rights to the intellectual property of the Juicy tion periods of five years each. The ImagineX part- offices. For more Couture brand, has locked up a long-term distri- nership allows it to open Juicy stores across Hong on the model, bution agreement with the ImagineX Group to ac- Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Mainland China, Singapore, see WWD.com. celerate the growth of the Juicy Couture brand in Malaysia and Thailand. Greater China and Southeast Asia. ImagineX is the distributor for the Juicy brand, but ABG expects to ink five more distribution agree- its agreement since 2007 was with its former owner. ments for other territories around the world over the Under the terms of the new agreement, ABG and next few weeks, and is in negotiations with potential ImagineX are evaluating possibilities to add to the partners to expand Juicy in five countries where the current product offerings, such as intimates and brand doesn’t yet have a presence. Some potential Juicy Couture Girls. The latest category addition, partners ABG is in talks with are existing distributors footwear by Steve Madden, will be available in Asia of the Juicy brand, while others would be new ones. in the spring. ABG in April signed with The Folli Follie Group ABG told WWD last month it is eyeing freestand- to handle the exclusive wholesale and retail dis- ing stores overseas for intimates and girls, respond- LEXIE MORELAND tribution rights for continental Europe, where ing to requests from its partners for concept stores

there are 24 stores, including outlets, across the in those categories. PHOTO BY region. A 25th store will open in mid-September in There is a network of 85 stores in the region con- Greece in the Thessaloniki City Center at the Attica sisting of Greater China and Southeast Asia. Department Store. As for its partnership with ImagineX, Salter ABG acquired the Juicy brand last year from said, “We look forward to working with ImagineX to Ellen DeGeneres is entering the design game with E.D., a Kate Spade & Co., formerly Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc., further accelerate Juicy Couture’s growth in Asia, lifestyle brand launching with a gift-oriented capsule collection for $196 million. consistent with our long-term goals for the brand in for holiday. PAGE 1 According to Jamie Salter, ABG’s chairman global markets.” and chief executive officer, all overseas full-price Thomson Cheng, managing director of ImagineX, Ralph Toledano, president of the Fédération Française de la stores, shops-in-shop and outlets, as well as the e- said, “Juicy Couture’s business is thriving in Greater Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de commerce site that just relaunched, carry the core China and we’re excited to be working with ABG to Mode, discusses the future of Paris fashion. PAGE 1 Juicy Couture Black Label Collection. The brand is implement its lifestyle vision. We see great potential distributed in 58 countries. for the brand expanding into the highly prized foot- Donna Karan has collaborated with Steven Sebring on a short Interest in the Juicy brand is particularly com- wear category, and creating new opportunities in film that captures the “Woman in Motion.” PAGE 3 pelling overseas, Salter said, because of consumer contemporary fashion intimates and girls collections demand for authentic American brands that have that are to date untapped in this market.” Ten years later, Andrew Olah’s Kingpins show has become far been invented in the U.S. and designed here. Next up on the international front are partner- more than an afterthought. PAGE 8 Li & Fung Ltd.’s Global Brands Group, which ship agreements with MAF, or the Majid Al Futtaim is set to go public in Hong Kong today, is respon- Group, for the Middle East; JamilCo Group for Several major trade shows will take place in New York to sible for the design and manufacture of Juicy’s Russia; Rustan’s Group for the Philippines; the PAGE 10 apparel products. ABG has licensing deals with Handsome Corp. for South Korea, and the Demsa create a forum for the latest textile trends. Steven Madden for footwear, Elizabeth Arden Group for Turkey, according to Salter. for fragrance, Movado for watches, Safilo for eye- ABG is also in discussions with El Palacio de Sourcing executives are taking a look at several sub-Saharan wear, Contour for tech accessories and Swimwear Hierro for its Mexican partnership and is in ne- African countries as viable apparel sourcing alternatives. PAGE 12 Anywhere for swimwear. gotiations with two potential partners for parts of In the U.S., ABG will be opening new Juicy con- Latin America. Other negotiations include similar New tablet-only app Lou is looking to put fashion’s social cept stores next year that will carry Black Label. agreements for India, Israel, Japan, South Africa musings in one place. PAGE 13 The existing sites operated by Juicy’s former owner and Australia and New Zealand. are in the process of being shuttered. Salter said many stores will be flagships first, fol- Garment factory registration in Cambodia increased to 1,200 Separately, Juicy will be introducing a lower- lowed by shops-in-shop, and then where allowed, at the end of June. PAGE 13 priced line, Pink Label, in select midtier depart- outlet locations. “With our retail partners around ment stores in the U.S. by the end of this year, the world, we have in excess of 200 retail points of Target Corp. has made three external senior-level hires who according to Salter. “The Pink Label will feature distribution,” Salter said. will have responsibility for leading technology teams. PAGE 13

Ben Watts provides a look at Shark Attack Sounds, the Standard’s Tough Road at American Apparel pseudo-rave-bacchanal thrown in Montauk, N.Y. PAGE 14

is it an endorsement of him,” Standard said. “He is Charlize Theron resembled a living J’adore ad as she strolled By EVAN CLARK the largest shareholder, and the voting agreement into the Dior couture show on the arm of Sean Penn. PAGE 15 allows us to control his block of shares….He can no STANDARD GENERAL is poised to move into the longer vote his shares without our consent.” driver’s seat at American Apparel Inc. — but it’s Standard said American Apparel is threatened ON WWD.COM still not clear just where the colorful basics com- by debt defaults that could result in bankruptcy pany is going. and described that as “an unfortunate outcome for Led by managing partner Soo Kim, Standard a company with over 10,000 employees earning in MODEL CALL: Nora Shopova, the 22-year-old Bulgaria native, teamed with ousted founder Dov Charney and now es- excess of a living wage with subsidized, affordable has graced the pages of Marie Claire, Elle, British Vogue sentially controls 44 percent of the company’s stock, health insurance and a socially conscious mission and recently landed the cover of Vogue Turkey’s May issue. giving it the leverage it needs to negotiate changes to to manufacture in the USA.” Standard and Kim For more, see WWD.com. the Los Angeles-based firm’s board. The little-known were “prepared to lend their credibility and capi- New York investment firm might also help the com- tal resources to prevent this avoidable outcome in pany pay off the $10 million it owes to Lion Capital, what…is otherwise a healthy business.” which is said to have called its loan, although the com- But while American Apparel always had plenty of FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA pany could still dispute that it has the right to do so. sex and headline appeal with the colorful Charney @ WWD.com/social There’s been no official release, but a source at the helm and its domestic manufacturing base, the close to the retailer confirmed that its deal with company’s bottom line has continued to struggle. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Standard contemplates a seven-person board that Losses topped $106 million last year and the com- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. would include Allan Mayer and David Danziger, pany also carries about $280 million in debt with a COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. currently co-chairmen of American Apparel. Under market capitalization of just over $153 million. VOLUME 208, NO. 5. TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and the preliminary understanding, three of the other “They missed a good opportunity to scale the com- two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine five members would be appointed by Standard and pany earlier in its life cycle,” said Antony Karabus, Publishers Inc. 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Box 6356, What role Charney might play at the firm going for- Uniqlo have made big advances in the market. Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. ward depends on the outcome of the investigation that “There’s still a market there, but I think the door Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address led to his firing. After years of fending off sexual ha- is closing slowly, but surely,” he said. “This is what changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. rassment suits, the company said Charney allowed ex- I would call the last major opportunity. This is the If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with plicit blog postings of a former employee who was suing time where Standard General can really impose a your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be him and signed off on significant severance packages top-notch management team, take out expensive mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request for workers to shield himself from personal liability. debt and replace it with equity and I think make to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse Charney has taken the company to arbitration [the business] more sustainable.” permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. for wrongful dismissal. Craig Johnson, president of Customer Growth Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we Standard noted in a regulatory filing Monday Partners, said American Apparel had a “deeply believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . 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WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 3 WWD.COM Toledano Aims’’ to Boost Paris’ Fashion Profile {Continued from page one} eration headquarters on Rue could be rescinded for design- chief executive officer, and the du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, ers not up to snuff. British Fashion Council tapping where it has been since 1935. While Toledano is in the Net-a-porter founder Natalie “Stéphane is going to do the discreet mold of Grumbach, he Massenet as its chairman — pro- job,” he stressed. acknowledged the federation vides an extra impetus. Toledano said his overriding could communicate more force- “I think competition is excel- mission is to solidify Paris as fully about its activities and ac- lent,” he said, flashing a smile. the “unrivaled fashion capital of complishments. To be sure, it “It gives us more reason to be the world,” bolster training and has widened the footprint and very demanding on ourselves.” education initiatives and culti- appeal of Paris fashion weeks Toledano, who succeeds long- time president Didier Grumbach after the latter’s 16-year tenure, speaks in plural because he in- You have to challenge yourself sists it’s a “team effort” thanks to a five-person executive commit- tremendously because you want tee Grumbach introduced to bol- ster the federation’s brain trust, multiply its missions and speed to stay on top and you want to be decision-making. Besides Toledano, the com- better. We want the most exciting mittee’s members are Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fash- shows to happen here. ion at Chanel; Guillaume de Seynes, managing director at — RALPH TOLEDANO Hermès; Sidney Toledano, ceo of Dior, and fashion consultant and Hermès veteran Stéphane vate and support new talent. in tandem with the advance of Wargnier, who was named exec- “We also need more financing French luxury, now a major eco- utive president of the federation than we have today to make all of nomic force. to run its day-to-day operations, those things happen,” he added. “Paris has been extremely MURA FRANCK given Ralph Toledano’s profes- Toledano said it’s too soon to low-key,” Toledano said, attrib-

sional commitments. map out concrete initiatives, but uting that to the working style PHOTO BY “They are brilliant people, it’s he hinted the federation would of Grumbach, a “visionary” who really an asset,” Toledano said become “even more selective” to magnified the international Parisienne. Toledano asserted ing muslin prototypes and pho- of his fellow committee mem- ensure that fashion weeks in Paris complexion of the French capi- that, with its unique mix of cre- tos in an installation format that bers, noting that rivalries van- — headlined by the nine-day mar- tal and forged key trade and cul- ative and technical education, received wide acclaim. ish when the executives gather athon of women’s ready-to-wear tural relations with such pow- it could become a legitimate Toledano said he does not in one room with the common twice a year — mount in quality. erful emerging economies as challenger to fashion’s most fa- view his federation role as an goal of boosting Paris fashion. “I “The idea is not to make it China, India and’’ Brazil. mous school, London’s Central additional job, but rather an ad- love it because it’s not a one-man longer; the idea is to make it Among the federation’s quiet Saint Martins. ditional responsibility. show,” he enthused. stronger. Each show must de- accomplishments was to prop The École recently exhib- “Fashion is not a job for That said, Wargnier will serve to be on the calendar,” he up the École de la Chambre ited the graduation work of its me,” he said. “It’s really some- take Grumbach’s seat at fed- said, suggesting a Paris time slot Syndicale de la Couture fourth-year students, showcas- thing I love.”

handpicked the stills from the high- of content via social media. Recently, technology shoot for the brand’s fall ad Hearst centralized its news desk to MEMO PAD campaign, which also make a statement supply digital content to all 18 of its for movement, or, as Karan put it, “the glossies. Centralizing content may have MOTION PICTURE: In February, Donna Karan woman on the go.” — MARC KARIMZADEH many drawbacks, but in terms of traffic, introduced her 30th anniversary show it could benefit sleepier sister sites. with an atmospheric video created by COSMOPOLITAN.COM UNDRESSED: Hearst’s Cosmo’s reach has helped bump Steven Sebring. In time for the clothes to biggest magazine, Cosmopolitan, is up unique views across Hearst. The begin to hit stores, the designer took getting a digital facelift. company’s 18 titles brought in a total the collaboration with Sebring a step The revamp, which goes live today by of 100 million unique visitors in May, further via a short film that captures the 7 a.m., is essentially the template that according to Adobe Analytics. Of that, “Woman in Motion,” a concept evocative Hearst will use for the Web sites of all Cosmo was responsible for nearly 30 of Karan’s philosophy. Karlie Kloss was of its 18 magazines. The rollout will take million unique views on top of traffic, photographed inside a geo-dome by 100 place over the next 12 months, with Elle which rose nearly 200 percent year- cameras capturing every perspective. getting the next digital touch-up. over-year. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD The resulting sequence of stills was From a conference room on the 19th manipulated into a moving film. floor of the Hearst Tower in Manhattan, Cosmopolitan’s new Web site. MARIE CLAIRE NABS FIRST LADY: Well not “It’s taking it to the next dimension,” Troy Young, president of Hearst that first lady — and not that Marie Karan said. “When I saw it for the Magazines Digital Media, showed off developed with creative digital agency Claire. Marie Claire Mexico is featuring first time, I felt it was something so the new site, as cosmopolitan.com Code and Theory, is Hearst’s answer to a the first lady of Mexico, Angélica Rivera de editor Amy Odell watched on. post-banner world. Peña, on its July cover. The issue marks “This is a content marketing Young said his objective is to the first time de Peña has ever appeared platform, not a CMS, which is translate content into alternate media on a fashion magazine cover. what you traditionally see,” formats, such as video, as a way to Although the first lady was not Young said. “Marketers are maximize traffic and ad revenue. available for comment, Marie Claire looking for a solution in a post- Content must be mobile-friendly, as 69 Mexico editor in chief Ariadne Grant banner world.” percent of page views on cosmopolitan. said the issue embodies “female Young explained how the com are from mobile devices, Odell said. empowerment and girl power. new site is the product of a The editor, who came from BuzzFeed “Our mission has always been to more nimble, easier to use, and New York Magazine’s The Cut, capture the spirit of our times in the system. What readers will emphasized the speed at which her pages of this magazine — those things get is a sleeker site, which team could update and reorganize which are relevant to us, what we are includes breaking news content on the site. “We could publish living,” said Grant. updates, a video banner, an 20 percent more content a day,” she Appearing on the cover with the first infinite scroll of stories and said, noting that Cosmo uploads up to 45 lady is her daughter, Sofía Castro, who, advertisements that appear new stories a day. like her mother, is clad in a power suit. seamlessly between videos The point of all this is to compete “They both represent women nowadays An image from Donna Karan’s fall campaign. of male models cuddling with other sites for clicks and, in turn, and as you will be able to read, have kittens and buzzy stories on celebrities. ad dollars. It also signals a move across broken stereotypes and know that personally me. It was everything that There is also a native advertising Hearst to bring a sense of immediacy power is not the same as aloofness, but I am about — the body, the movement component in the form of a section and a breaking news element to its a tool for helping others; they are hard- of the body, the energy, the city. It was called “Marketplace,” which is where magazines. Typically, those publications working, shine on their own light and women on the move.” advertisers can plug their products. had followed in lock step with an hold their own views in a fierce daily The film, which launched on Sponsored content — or content industry that largely reposted stories that battle for what they dream to achieve,” donnakaran.com today, serves multiple created by Cosmo for an advertiser — is appeared in their monthly print editions. Grant concluded. purposes. It will be part of 30 window woven into the scroll and denoted by Although Hearst would not divulge The photos, which were taken by installations that mark the designer’s a shared byline. For example, a story how much the project cost, Young Gregory Allen, include arty black-and- milestone at retail and begin later this commissioned by H&M will say “By offered that the new site not only allows white portraits of the duo from inside month at Bergdorf Goodman, which Cosmo + H&M.” for more sponsored content than before, Los Pinos, the residence of the Mexican launched the brand in 1984. Karan also In short, the site, which was but it also optimizes the shareability president. — A.S.

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Dior Haute Couture: If couture venues are chosen to suit the Dior Haute Couture personality of the designer, it makes sense that Dior shows at the Rodin Museum. While Raf Simons doesn’t spend his days in contemplative inertia plopped on a rock with his chin on his hand, he is one of fashion’s great thinkers. His work springs from intense thought, research and reason behind each motif, each silhouette, each embellishment. His goal is not only to turn out exquisite clothes enticing to Dior’s tony global clientele, but to do so within a framework that challenges and seeks to advance current notions of modernity — within the ethos of Dior. The collection Simons showed on Monday was fascinating in its foundation, and often beautifully rendered. “This collection is very historically inspired,” Simons said in a preview backstage. “It felt like a challenge to look further back in history and see how I could modernize certain aesthetics. That is my constant drive, to make it younger and make it relevant to women in their lives today. Always, to be modern.” So, too, was the mesmerizing set: a pristine, round pavilion, its mirrored walls covered in thousands of densely packed white orchids. The show featured eight distinct sections, some seemingly unrelated but in fact linked by Simons’ manipulation of past concepts into modern chic. The first inspiration: constricting 18th-century courtly costume that corseted women and fancified men. Simons interpreted the Robe à la Française, a structured bodice with massive side- to-side volume in the skirt, with outward subtlety — from an old pretty dress sprung a series of new pretty dresses. Ye t underneath, he shunned that critical foundation of both the 18th century and current Fall 2014 couture, the corset. These charmed in white, silver, barely there green and blue jacquards, their exquisite embroideries applied with smart restraint. As for the mannish frock coats, Simons turned them Paris casual, even removing the sleeves from a green astrakhan version. In between, he presented the collection’s wildest juxtaposition, integrating elements of astronauts’ flight suits — CoutureNEXT STOP ON THE FASHION CALENDAR: HAUTE COUTURE. specifically utilitarian zippers THE SEASON BEGAN WITH SHOWS FROM DIOR, VERSACE AND MORE. — into dresses before switching gears and applying traditional embroideries onto full-on flight suits. These were inherently fun — haute NASA, come on! — even if Simons tried his best to hide the fact in the seriousness Atelier Versace: “I love the Fifties couture. For me, it of his overall message. was the most perfect in cut and construction,” said He offered an ode to the Donatella Versace backstage, just before welcoming last century’s early fashion Jennifer Lopez, dazzling in bright white. liberationist, the flapper, her The Fifties wouldn’t recognize itself. lines free and easy, and her For the couture collection she showed on Sunday embroideries intricate but not evening, Versace did indeed invoke an elegant line at all coy. reminiscent of the decade, round-shouldered and strict Simons delivered a dose by day, often abundant with rustling volume by night. of sporty daytime drama with Set on modernizing the archetypes of that most elegant bold floor-sweeping coats of decades, Versace sexed up, toughed up and Gothed that derived from Edwardian up with characteristic bravado. days yet that rang a bell of One could envision many of these clothes on the free-to-be Sixties rock. And Miley Cyrus genre of fashion girl, which is to say young, in “Collar meets Bar,” he probably famous, probably pop-star-with-an-edge continued to reinvent the house (probably nonpaying). But cool, audacious famous girls standard. He closed with deftly are not couture’s core clientele. Of the paying-clients embroidered silk dresses that genre, even at Versace they most likely take their referenced the show’s structured Fifties a little more literally. openers, their volume now Versace’s primary ruse was to deconstruct, not comfortably deflated via gently Dior’s wall of orchids. in the angsty, undone Belgian sense, but by cutting released pleats. away fabrics, slicing and twisting while remaining

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Schiaparelli Giambattista Stéphanie Valli Coudert I ANNON GI

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FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE ANE FEUGÈRE; PH É WWD.com/ T runway. S BY TO O PH OR I WHITE D

focused on a perfect-fit corseted silhouette. Along Schiaparelli is concentrating on couture before the way, a jacket became a diagonally fastened, one- branching out into luxury ready-to-wear and other sleeve number; the bodice of a gown presented as products. Zanini gave a hint of things to come half-bustier and half rolled-up T-shirt; a slashed-front by including sunglasses, musketeer gloves and column revealed a single trouser leg. Throughout, handbags — mostly furry clutches the models hugged there were seductress-worthy embroideries, boldly like teddy bears. rambunctious patent fringe and a racy kilt motif with skirts and jumpsuits fastened on the hip with double Giambattista Valli: Buy-now-wear-now couture? metal buckles. Giambattista Valli let loose with a collection that Ample asymmetry afforded one-sided glimpses brought to mind some glamorous beach club in the era of skin, including on a bodysuit-cum-ballgown that of Classical Hollywood, with its awning stripes, sunny seemed caught in identity crises: Am I dominatrix or colors and dresses crawling with spring blooms. latter-day deb? Valli has sought to loosen up couture, frequently sending out models with wash-and-go hairstyles. Here, Schiaparelli: There it was, the holy grail of Schiaparelli locks were tossed lazily under scarves, and sunglasses — shocking pink — in all its eye-searing glory: a gave the models additional mystique as they zigzagged draped gown in silk velvet, the neckline and plunging a carpeted runway in pajama tops paired with grand back embellished with a garland of fabric roses. evening skirts. Marco Zanini worked up to this telltale color in his Except for a few Cruella de Vil capes in spotted fur second couture collection for the long-dormant house. and swanky draped gowns in black jersey, it could have Here a vaguely Western shirtdress in dusty rose; there been a summer collection. It was fetching nonetheless, a sweeping maxi coat in Pepto-Bismol pink, and finally, as Valli applied his dense floral embroideries to flaring a pair of high-waist hortensia trousers matched with Fifties dresses in sturdy white silk faille, or slinky a coppery silk blouse, its dense folds glistening like sheaths in more gossamer fabrics, bathing suit bottoms caramel pudding. “Controlled excess,” the Italian winking underneath. designer called it. “I tried to set myself free.” The designer never met a flower he didn’t like, With Christian Lacroix and John Galliano no longer and he scattered wisteria, daisies and geraniums on plying the couture craft, Zanini has stepped in to offer luncheon suits and cocktail dresses alike. He also flamboyance, eccentricity and boldness. Where else in indulged his penchant for the occasional swag of fabric Paris are you likely to find an evening gown in a hand- falling from the hip line. painted print mingling squirrels and their less popular Valli played against type with his striped, cousin, rats? Or a cropped evening jacket with furry pajamalike coats, pants and shirtdresses. Two-piece Atelier Versace: “I love the Fifties couture. For me, it tinsel sleeves, as happy as Christmas morning? dresses banded in black and white sequins looked was the most perfect in cut and construction,” said Mindful that tailoring was the Roman founder’s crisp and modern, and showed the designer pushing Donatella Versace backstage, just before welcoming most important legacy, Zanini hung this collection on his boundaries. Jennifer Lopez, dazzling in bright white. demonstrative shoulders; each pad a hand-stitched The finale looks featured grand skirts made of The Fifties wouldn’t recognize itself. creation of weightless wadding. They helped support undulating tulle ruffles tinted a dégradé of vivid colors. For the couture collection she showed on Sunday the gorilla proportions of fur-sleeve coats and a bevy Once the models stopped zigzagging, the Instagram evening, Versace did indeed invoke an elegant line of boxy boleros, among the strongest items in the show, moments took over. reminiscent of the decade, round-shouldered and strict in such varied fabrics as brown leather, shaved beaver by day, often abundant with rustling volume by night. and glazed ostrich feathers. Stéphanie Coudert: Following a 10-year hiatus, Stéphanie Set on modernizing the archetypes of that most elegant A black zoot suit, replete with a watch chain, was Coudert staged a convincing comeback to the couture of decades, Versace sexed up, toughed up and Gothed the kind of thing you could see on someone like Inès calendar with an array of cleverly tailored looks, most up with characteristic bravado. de La Fressange, who took in the show along with of them for day. One could envision many of these clothes on the Azzedine Alaïa, Christian Louboutin and Valentino’s She employed asymmetric constructions and well- Miley Cyrus genre of fashion girl, which is to say young, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. placed draping on coats and jackets, including a loose probably famous, probably pop-star-with-an-edge Zanini’s clothes have a vintage quality that one mustard coat with a built-in capelet, and a sweater (probably nonpaying). But cool, audacious famous girls hopes he shakes because there’s always room in jacket featuring a luscious collar matched to an are not couture’s core clientele. Of the paying-clients fashion for color and whimsy, minus all the Forties oversize satchel. genre, even at Versace they most likely take their signposts. Summing up the founder’s modus operandi Embellishments were few yet effective. Coudert Fifties a little more literally. in a preview, Zanini said she “helped modern women worked leather shreds, which she had painted in Versace’s primary ruse was to deconstruct, not to assert their individuality.” metallic colors to resemble Berber jewelry, on the Dior’s wall of orchids. in the angsty, undone Belgian sense, but by cutting A personal project of Italian entrepreneur Diego back of a shoulder or along the lapel, feeding the away fabrics, slicing and twisting while remaining Della Valle, the owner of Tod’s and Roger Vivier, collection’s oriental theme.

w08a004(5)a;12.indd 2 7/7/14 7:06 PM 07072014191047 6 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 Ellen DeGeneres Ellen’s Ne xt Gig: Design Guru {Continued from page one} When they met, Burch was impressed

together. “I feel like it’s the most amazing by DeGeneres’ passion and vision. He team, an all-star team,” DeGeneres said. sensed immediately that they could devel- On the front end for Burch, the people op an important collaborative business. mattered more than the project specifics. “This is not a ‘we give Ellen a percent- “My strategy in everything I do is to work age of sales,’” he said. “We are aligned at with incredible people,” he said in a sep- every level, her team and my team.

arate interview. “I want to work with the “I knew Ellen was loved by every- most talented, extraordinary, unusual and body, but I didn’t understand the depth creative people in the world.” of [her pubic perception],” Burch maintains he wasn’t Burch continued. “People see looking for another project of who she is, what a wonderful any kind — “I’m exhausted” — person she is and how much let alone one fashion-oriented.’’ she gives back. Everyone re- “For some reason, everyone in sponds to her — you’re a man, our industry thinks I’m [just in you’re a woman, you’re a mom, fashion]. I’m really not. I have you’re a working mom — she 50 other things I do on a daily brings a happiness and a light basis. Yes, I’ve invested in a and a true authenticity.” lot of entrepreneurs in our in- The “A” word. Both Burch dustry. [But] I’m in technology The logo and DeGeneres voiced it numer- in every category. My resorts, I for DeGeneres’ ous times. Everything around really enjoy. So for me I really new brand. Ellen the celebrity — the danc- wasn’t looking for anything.” ing, do-gooding, suit-wearing, Still, the man hasn’t gotten rich by audience-connecting, underdog-loving, brushing off the likes of DeGeneres, es- bigotry-hating, pet-loving, quip-delivering, pecially when the contact came through comfortable-with-tears, first-name-suffi- Gardini, a trusted, industry-savvy friend. cient celebrity — feels authentic, an aura She introduced Burch to Francis who essential to her public persona. After two My goal is that people can have a beautiful house, a really comfortable house, without only being able to afford [very expensive] things. — ELLEN DEGENERES

knew DeGeneres — and knew her to be hours of conversation, one senses that the a longtime student of aesthetic disci- authenticity runs far deeper than celeb- plines and a skilled, if technically ama- rity shtick, that it’s, well, authentic. “I just teur, design practitioner, particularly do what I do,” DeGeneres said, probably on the home front. With an impressive oblivious that she’d invoked the mantra of track record of renovation-decoration- one of fashion’s greatest (and interesting- flipping for profit (albeit unintention- ly, given her ambitious aspirations, most ally), DeGeneres had long mulled a de- successful) individualists, Ralph Lauren. sign-centric business. Her most recent E.D. will launch in late October/early flipping success made news this week. November with a capsule home decor On Monday, TMZ reported that product range that takes the name of the

AN FOR MORE, INCLUDING DeGeneres on Thursday closed holiday-selling season to heart. Designs M A LOOK AT ELLEN’S on her sale of the famed Brody and gift-worthy packaging are still being RED-CARPET LOOKS, SEE House in Los Angeles — which tweaked for the lineup of tabletop’’ (sets of mugs, dessert plates, coasters, a bar set with MIKE ROZ WWD.com/ she bought in December for BY fashion-news. $40 million and spruced up ornamented stirrers), unusually shaped — to Napster cofounder Sean candles and top-of-bed (decorative pillows,

PHOTO Parker for $55 million. throws) as well as gift wrap and ornaments.

WWD: Yet you’re planning your “next phase.” of it, but it’s me and we pretty much have Ellen: This is something I’ve wanted to the same aesthetic as far as what we like. Yup, She’s a Lifestyle Brand do for a long time. We’ve been very, very HEADLINE ASIDE, our Santa Barbara home picky about how to do it and who to do WWD: I’ve read about your passion for real there’s nothing aw-shucks and I thought, “We’re going it with. It’s not that after all of these estate, for buying homes, redoing them about Ellen DeGeneres. to remember this day. We’re [celebrities] have come out with all of thinking that you’re settled, and then finding She is a formidable going to look back and think, these lines I go, “Oh, me too!” I think another. What speaks to you? conversationalist, direct ‘This is the beginning of a big, that’s important. And I think it’s important Ellen: I shop all of the time. I love houses and thoughtful. Over a big business.’” that I’m not licensing my name, that this is and every month I look at every design vegetarian lunch at New me, every decision on design, everything magazine, I buy every latest design book York’s Candle 79, the focus WWD: How big can E.D. become? I’m putting out there. No one is going, and architecture book. So I’m always was DeGeneres’ ambitious Ellen: As big as it gets. How “And this is what we’re doing.” They’re learning and educating myself with new E.D. launch, but the big can it get? Bigger. I’m not telling me what to do. We’re partners ideas, new inspirations. So when I see discussion wended through not trying to launch a little and we’re all working together. something — a new chair or something — ongoing cultural intolerance, boutique situation. This is I think “Where is that going to go?” I have why the red carpet is less Bridget Foley ’s my next phase. The show WWD: Explain the name E.D. to move because I have no place for it and welcoming to her than to her Diary is the show and when I Ellen: People will call it what they will, I don’t want to put anything in storage. wife, Portia de Rossi, and someday decide to stop but it is “Ed.” It’s obviously my initials, I know so many people who buy things her first, failed foray into doing the show, my entire but Ed is also what Portia has called me and then they move things out and into fashion years ago. The world just wasn’t focus is going to be design. for a long time. It’s just a nickname. We storage. It’s like, you’re not going to use ready for ass-less pants. wanted it to be my name without it being it anymore — sell it. I feel the same way WWD: Do you think about the show ending? my name because it should represent about a home. If you grow out of it.…I’m Ellen DeGeneres: I’m really excited. I have a Ellen: Of course. I mean, I have three much more than just Ellen. I like Ed and lucky enough that when I do sell homes, tendency to not remember things vividly. more years on my contract and of we loved the way it looks. The periods I make money because I improve their I have abstract memories of things, but course, that’s a discussion: “Do I are just a design thing. value and I know how to do that, though I not concrete, so I’m trying to remember keep going or don’t I? What do I do?” never do it intentionally. I never look at it this time. I was remembering when we Everyone obviously wants it to keep WWD: Is Portia involved at all? Does she as I’m flipping houses. were all sitting at lunch [Ellen, Portia, going and as long as I’m having fun and casually tell you, ‘ You should do this, you members of Ellen’s L.A.-based team of as long as I’m doing well, I’ll keep going. should do that?’ WWD: And you love the makeover process. advisers, Marisa Gardini and several I am having fun now and the show keeps Ellen: She definitely has opinions and she’s Ellen: I just love aesthetic; I love design. I prospective design-team members] in growing and growing, which is amazing. in meetings with us because she’s a part always have, since I was a little girl. We

w08a006(7)a.indd 6 7/7/14 8:06 PM 07072014200756 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 7 WWD.COM Ellen’s Ne xt Gig: Design Guru The only apparel offering: a pj’s-and-slip- pers set. Distribution will be online through a major retail partner. At press time, that deal had not been finalized. The full launch, inclusive of a broader home-and-garden range, women’s and men’s clothes and accessories and pet niceties,

will take place for the spring. (DeGeneres was intentionally cryptic about the latter: “I don’t want to be specific because I don’t want people stealing my ideas.”) Decisions are being made about which categories to produce directly, and which through li-

censees. On the table: sunglasses, footwear and watches. As for handbags — expect Ellen-esque totes rather than a traditional shopper-hobo-clutch approach. Though exact pricing is in the works, the point of the project is accessibility. The home portion would be competitive ’’ with Martha Stewart. “My goal is that people can have a beautiful house, a really comfortable house, without only being able to afford [very expensive] things,” DeGeneres said. Regarding the clothes, “price point will be midlevel. As far as who it’s for, I think it’s for anyone. I hope that what I wear is [versatile].” Distribution will be online and brick-

and-mortar through partners. In addition, ANNACCONE I

E.D. is investing heavily in developing AS its own e-commerce site, which will have M My goal is that people can have a beautiful HO T cross-device mobile capability, to go live house, a really comfortable house, without only sometime in the spring. This will carry the entire range of products, including PHOTO BY pricier halo items exclusive to the site. being able to afford [very expensive] things. While the 2015 marketing plan includes a DeGeneres knows. She is well-versed pop-up or two, there are no current plans in the design currents of both fashion and — ELLEN DEGENERES for permanent vertical brick-and-mortar Ellen will drive the design and merchandise the home, an affinity not lost on Burch. stores, though that could change. “Ellen will drive the design and merchan- “We’re taking an omnichannel ap- process. I’m fortunate to be creative…but dise process,” he said. “I’m fortunate to proach,” Burch said. “We’ll work with be creative and have a little bit of busi- great partners all around the world. We’ll in this case, it’s Ellen’s vision. ness sense, but in this case, it’s Ellen’s vi- launch initially with one, and we’ll move sion. We’re here as collaborating partners from there to other categories, other to make sure we accomplish her vision things.” Distribution will remain domes- — CHRISTOPHER BURCH, BURCH CREATIVE CAPITAL through sourcing, through all of the differ- tic through 2015, after which expansion ent things needed [to develop a brand].” could move swiftly. DeGeneres’ show has DeGeneres is game, whatever it takes. given her a strong profile in some attrac- in April, the New York Times chronicled from one rental apartment to another, “It’s going to be interesting over the next tive markets, including China and Dubai. her impressive real estate acquisitions, never to a house — and each time set three or four years, to really establish the The capsule launch isn’t a far leap for a renovations and sales, including her pur- out to decorate the bedroom of her ado- business in addition to doing my show,” woman obsessed with matters of home and chase of the celebrated Brody House, built lescent dreams with almost no budget she said. “It’s a whole new chapter. My life decorating who has, accidentally, become in 1949. “We feel like custodians to an im- and access to a single design reference: has gone to places…it’s pretty amazing.” ’’ something of a real estate guru — making a portant piece of architecture,” she told the Pier 1 Imports. Hence her focus on ac- In terms of her standards of success, lot of money along the way. DeGeneres’ in- Times. (And she no doubt meant it, until cessibility. “You’re only able to put your nothing short of amazing will do. “They say terest in architecture and design has been Mr. Napster came knocking.) house together within a certain budget if we’re going to be on another planet soon, well covered. Several of her homes have It’s an interest long-held. Growing up, you have access to certain things and if right?” DeGeneres mused. “I’m going to be been featured in shelter magazines, and, DeGeneres moved frequently — always you’re educated about’’ them,” she said. the first brand on that planet.” moved every year and a half and I had fine. I’ve just always loved design in not in a basic way, but simple in a well-oiled machine. I go there every to redo a new bedroom each time, so I every area. I just like aesthetic — it’s sophisticated, not tricky, not trendy day and we create the show and that’s think that’s where it started. They were important to me. way. The hardest thing is to find it. I have many hours of the day to think apartments because we never owned a something that will go with anything about design when I go home and I have home, which also made me want to own a WWD: How you characterize your aesthetic? else, something you can mix and match weekends and I think about it all the home. And as soon as I had enough money, Ellen: I don’t think there is one. I think and wear without it looking like it was time. Why now? It just turns out that the I bought a house. And then I started style is beauty and beauty comes in many last year. I know things have to change, partners came at this time. I’ve been making a little more money and I built a forms. The only thing that I will stick I know that’s what fashion is. But it just looking to do this for a long time; my team house and then I made money on each with as far as what I’m attracted to is drives me crazy when one year, you wear and I have been searching for the way to house. I made more money in real estate my wife. I don’t think I’ll change on that; a collar that is three-quarters of an inch do this exact thing. I didn’t want to license early on than my entertainment career. she’s my favorite. But as far as a home, I and the next year it’s [bigger] and you my name. I wanted it to be me, and I love so many different styles. Our place can tell something is out of style because wanted to have partners who knew what WWD: When you were young and on the stand- in Santa Barbara is an Italian stone of the collar. I know that’s the nature of they were doing and knew how to build up circuit, did the real estate help support you? farmhouse, and it’s a whole different vibe the beast, but I’m going to try to make a business. I’m not doing this because Ellen: I had to first make enough money to than our contemporary house in the city. things that are simple and basic enough I’ve had so many celebrities on the show buy a house and then it just [moved from I like having [both], and if I knew how to that they last. Comfort and quality are talking about their perfume or their there].…I didn’t start out thinking, “I’m live that way I would have a lot of other really important to me as well. I want my clothing line or whatever. I would hate for going to move and make money and move types of homes. I would have a Spanish stuff to be dependable so that someone it to look like, “Well then I’m going to do and make money.” It just turned out that home, I would have a Tudor, I would have can wash it and it’s still going to look the it.” I’ve wanted to do this for ages. We’ve when I lived in a place, what I did to it an East Coast. But I don’t like to live that same and feel the same. just been picky. We wanted to do it right. made it more appealing, and each house way. I like simplicity. I have representation that protects me was better than the last. Obviously, you’re WWD: Why now? When do you find the time? in every way. Every decision we make, moving up and I thought, “For sure I’ll WWD: You can love different aesthetics, but as Ellen: Look, I’m not as busy as a lot of every time I make a deal with anybody, it stay here.” And then it just became a someone launching a lifestyle brand, there has people. I’m not as busy as the President is because it is me. It is not my name; it joke and everybody laughed at me when to be a prevailing aesthetic. of the United States or Ryan Seacrest. is not my brand. It is me. I wanted to do it I said, “This is it, I’m not moving again.” Ellen: Oh, yeah, as far as that goes. Well, I think that if you love something and if the right way and it just took this long to And I really meant it, [until] I realized we were talking about houses. it’s your passion, then you have plenty find the right team. I feel like it’s the most that I just can’t say that anymore. of time. I think about my show as a very amazing team, an all-star team. WWD: Is there a connection? WWD: You’re on to yourself. Ellen: I think it has to be comfortable Ellen: Ye s I’m on to myself. And that’s and I think simple does apply. Simple WWD’S CONVERSATION WITH ELLEN DEGENERES CONTINUES ON WWD.COM/FASHION-NEWS.

w08a006(7)a.indd 7 7/7/14 8:06 PM 07072014200758 8 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 WWD.COM TEXTILES Kingpins Marks 10 Years of ‘Denim Fixation’ your time on the floor and our By ARNOLD J. KARR seminars, you have covered 90 percent of what you could pos- IT WAS NEVER supposed to sibly need to know about the turn into a trade show. jeans market for that season.” But a decade after the first Kurabo has remained an show was held in New York, exhibitor at the show from the that’s exactly what Kingpins has start, and Cone Denim and become. And as it marks its 10th Central Fabrics have been on anniversary and the aftermath the exhibitor roster practically of its debut in Amsterdam two as long. Kurabo remains an Olah months ago, founder Andrew Inc. client as well. Olah concedes that he’s in the Vivian Wang, a graphic art- trade-show business to stay. ist who did design work for The latest edition of the bou- Kingpins’ early shows, including tique denim market, to be held the invitation to the inaugural in New York July 22 and 23 at a event 10 years ago, was plugged new venue — the 60,000-square- into the denim market, having foot Skylight Clarkson Sq — will provided services for jeans re- bring together 57 exhibitors, sources including Lucky Brand from fiber and fabric vendors and AG Adriano Goldschmied to producers of labels and trim. before joining Olah full-time as Olah and his associates hope to managing director of the show. top the attendance record of 872 She sees a big advantage in the Kingpins in July 2010. set at last July’s New York show, “less is more” approach taken the last at Centre 548, before by the show. “We’re small and January’s “polar vortex” limited were so determined to have the attendees to 563. party outside.” As chief executive officer of The show, once an after- the company that bears his sur- thought for Olah, has now be- name, Olah had built a substan- come very much his focus. tial textile sales and consult- While he continues to consult ing business by 2004, when he for E3, BayerCropScience’s was looking to do something to sustainable cotton program, he showcase his longtime Japanese has handed off management of denim mill client Kurabo the firm’s textile sales division International. to Michael Morrell, president “The thinking was, ‘Let’s just of the company, who joined 10 rent an art gallery and we’ll have years ago after serving as cor- an event where we can draw at- porate manager of garment pro- tention to their four different cessing at The Jones Group Inc. collections,’” he told WWD. “But Among Kingpins’ priorities that would have been boring, so are the further development of I figured we could invite other the suite of consumer-focused people to exhibit.” events held under the “Denim To add to the event’s drawing Days” umbrella in Amsterdam power, he solicited — complete- as Kingpins made its European ly free of charge — companies debut. The second Amsterdam he considered the best in the show, scheduled for Oct. 29 and denim and sportswear business, 30, will be bolstered by a series including wash house Martelli, The show in January 2009. of denim awards and Olah is label maker Cadica, rivet pro- even considering taking a simi- ducer Cobra and Silver Jeans ’’ lar approach to help build the parent Western Glove Works, invitation only and we really ket adjusts to shifting fashion the lives and challenges faced Los Angeles show after its run all firms, like Kurabo, he con- focus on helping the people we tastes, a challenging retail cli- by cotton farmers in both the de- July 29 and 30. Earlier in its sidered “kingpins” within the invite,” she said. “It’s not as if mate and supply chain gyrations veloped and developing world. lifetime, the L.A. show was held global denim market. you’re at a huge gathering and that can be dizzying. At 3:30 p.m. on July 22, twice a year but was scaled back As the scale of the first show you’re going to see 1,000 people “We’ve tried to behave Kingpins will offer a “Denim to annually. grew, he had a somewhat dis- a day at your booth. We can ser- thoughtfully and intelligently and Development Crash Course” “The L.A. market is big and comforting realization. “I real- vice our exhibitors, even help if possible integrate some kind on the increased use of blends small at the same time,” Olah ized we were going to need food. them meet buyers they want of sustainable features into our in denim, a conversation in- noted. “There are a lot of people And furniture. We couldn’t just to work with. We don’t need to shows as we give our exhibitors cluding Alberto Candiani of in the market but a lot of them invite people and not have any- prove anything anymore.” a chance to sell more jeans and Candiani, Panos Sofianos of don’t want to go to a show and thing beyond that. I realized it’s Kingpins has been unapolo- fabric,” Olah said, adding that Royo, Jean Hegedus of Invista, prefer to operate independently.” just like throwing a wedding.” getically restrictive. Buyers, he’s come to view supply-chain Michael Kininmonth of Lenzing The solution, he said, could Now 10 years and six venues press and students are wel- transparency almost as seriously and Olah. be an approach similar to the removed from its birthplace come, but nonexhibitors who say as he does sustainability. Additionally, Invista will one taken in Amsterdam, com- in an art gallery at 25 Mercer share findings from recent glob- bining a business-to-business Street, Kingpins is no longer al research on what consumers trade fair with events directed free to the exhibitors — “the are looking for from their jeans at consumers and involving in- recession sobered us up on that The whole point (July 23 at 1:30 p.m.) and WGSN dustry-consumer interaction. point,” Olah said — but it’s be- will provide a trend presenta- “It’s an interesting dilemma come the model for shows in of our show is to tion (July 22 at 1:30 p.m.) to rein- for us,” he said. “We’re trying to four cities that stretch across force a display of denim surface figure out the right medicine.” three continents: two shows a treatments and laundering ef- The Hong Kong show is year in New York, one in Los make it easy to get fects on the show floor. scheduled for Aug. 19 and 20. Angeles, two in Hong Kong and As always, Kingpins will As Kingpins’ footprint has two in Amsterdam. Shows in in and get out and end its first day in New York grown, so too has its impact India and a second Los Angeles with its semiannual party, this as a networking event. Olah show were discontinued earlier. one geared to a celebration of convinced officials from the

SARDELLA DONATO get your job done. Olah believes that Kingpins “10 years of denim fixation, de- Fashion Institute of Technology has prospered as much for what — ANDREW OLAH, KINGPINS votion and borderline indigo in New York to attend the it isn’t as for what it is. “I was PHOTO BY OCD,” according to this year’s Amsterdam event. Steven just at a machinery show in invitation. Plans were being fi- Frumkin, dean of FIT’s Jay and Shanghai a few weeks ago and they’re interested in exhibiting With that mission in mind, nalized for this month’s soiree, Patty Baker School of Business I had to walk past 1,000 booths at the next show, who may in fact the second day of this month’s but Olah made it clear that the and Technology, was impressed to get to six good ones,” he said. be more interested in checking show will include a seminar on peripatetic nature of the show enough with the city’s Jean “We were never going to do that. out and possibly knocking off the “The Life and Times of Today’s — 21 New York shows in seven School that he told WWD he’s The whole point of our show is competition, get “a drink, a sand- Cotton Farmer: What’s Behind different locations — had a lot not only looking into beefing to make it easy to get in and get wich and sent on their way,” ac- the Cotton Yo u Use in Your to do with the party. “We prefer up FIT’s denim production fa- out and get your job done. If you cording to Olah. Products” at 10 a.m. Patrick having the entire show on a sin- cilities in Manhattan but also respond to our e-mail invita- For those who stay, Kingpins Laine, ceo of the Better Cotton gle floor, as we will this year, but exploring the addition of the tions, you don’t have to stand on has expanded its seminar pro- Initiative, and Brent Crossland, we also like having an outdoor Netherlands institution to FIT’s line waiting for a badge; instead gram, part of Olah’s strategy of fiber business development party for the July show,” he said. study-abroad options. you drop your business card and boosting the “intellectual con- manager, North America, at “On occasion, we may have over- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS you enter the show, and between tent” of the shows as the mar- Bayer CropScience,’’ will discuss stayed our welcome because we FROM NORMA QUINTO

10 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014

TEXTILES New Yo rk Shows Key to ‘Making It’

By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN Première Vision New York is moving 9.10.11 SEPTEMBER 2014 to Pier 92 on the Hudson River. NEW YORK — The city is about to become sourc- portello fieramilanocity ing central. It’s a vital time for fabric and material buyers, and executives who direct the manufacturing de- cisions and strategies for fashion firms large and small, as several major trade shows come to town to create a forum for the latest textile trends for fall 2015, provide mills and spinners opportuni- ties to network and plan production, and offer forums on the latest nuances and details of the complicated state of global sourcing. Spinexpo kicks things off next week with a three-day run at the Altman Building & FALL/WINTER Metropolitan Pavilion on West 18th Street start- 2015-16 ing July 15. It’s the sixth annual New York edi- tion of the international fair, which showcases exhibitors of yarns, fibers, knitted fabrics and knitwear with a global representation. The show will house 82 exhibitors from 15 countries, focusing on yarns with precious fibers such as cashmere and mohair, as well as merino wool, silk, viscose, metallic and synthetics for flatbed and circular knitting, hosiery and weav- ing. Many of the exhibiting companies special- ize in organic and ethical certifications. The fair les, metallic and plastic trims, embroidery and will also include a growing number of knitwear lace, labels, zippers and components for jewelry manufacturers, with 25 at this edition, partner- compared to 15 last July. Olearo said there was a ing with many of the exhibiting spinners to offer strong demand for more space and a wider rage a complete line. in this area, including components, trimmings, There will also be a special Cashmere labels, buttons and jeweled accessories. He said Boutique focused on a new generation of cash- there are more fabric offerings in segments such mere, highlighting a fiber that can be technical, as men’s wear and activewear. light and fashionable even in spring and summer, “To be able to have everything at the same organizers explained. place and on the same floor makes for a richer Spinexpo’s Trend Area, organized by a team offer and increases the power of the PV brands in headed by knitwear designer Sophie Steller, will the United States,” Olearo said. “It was time for us feature exhibitors’ products in a lively presenta- to move and it was time for us to expand our offer- tion of garments and accessories. Following an in- ing. It was an important step in the U.S. to change dustry trend, many of the exhibiting spinners are the layout of the show because for the first time Top-end Textiles and Accessories now completely vertical or linked to knitters and every universe — the fabrics, the trimmings and for Women’s wear and Men’s wear offer a better integrated knowledge of yarns and the designers — will have their own forum and it their end-use, according to organizers. This new will show we are a unique show with everything approach is possible through new machinery and on the same floor.” advanced technology, and international teams and Organizers have also added a trend seminar sales networks focused on product development. based on the important colors of the season to Milano Unica invites to visit: Première Vision New York has a new home augment the well-attended style seminar hosted this season on July 22 and 23 for its fall 2015 edi- by Sabine Le Chatelier, deputy fashion director tion, departing the Metropolitan Pavilion for larg- of P V. There will also be a panel on sustainability Lineapelle: September 10.11.12 Fieramilano Rho. er and more open space by the Hudson River. at 5 p.m. on opening day, a first for the New York MU-Lineapelle-MU shuttle links are provided Guglielmo Olearo, international director of edition after sessions were held in PV’s Paris and Première Vision, said the new venue is a major Shanghai shows last year. Like those seminars, Japan Observatory: September 9.10.11, Hall 2 moment for the New York show. Olearo expects this one to be well attended given Portello, Fieramilanocity, adjacent to Milano Unica “We are moving after many years to Pier 92, the importance of “eco-responsibility in the tex- where we will have better space, larger space, tile world,” he said. Denim Italiano: Italian Denim Makers: in collaboration with more services, more product and more exhibi- The show’s expansion is also buoyed by the im- Pitti Immagine Filati. September 9.10.11 at Milano Unica tors,” Olearo said. portance of the U.S. market. At Pier 92, PV New York will house its main “The exhibitors are attracted to the U.S. mar- offering of high-end fashion fabrics, mostly from ket because they see the opportunity for growth Europe, along with its Indigo New York fabric de- in the next six months,” Olearo said. “There is a sign fair. There will be 300 exhibitors overall, with return of major interest in the U.S. market. All 156 at PV and 147 at Indigo. This represents a 28 those exhibitors who have tried to develop busi- www.milanounica.it percent increase for PV and an 12 percent gain ness in the Far East, in China, have little by little for Indigo. In addition, there will be 24 trimming brought business back to the U.S. because they exhibitors including makers of buttons, buck- see the old lion is still alive, even more powerful

Con il patrocinio di

Texworld USA will have 433 exhibitors.

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ment store buyers.” Cole noted that one of the participants is Makers Row, a New York-based company that fo- cuses on assisting buyers and designers with con- nections to domestic resources. ‘Making It’ “A lot of our buyers are interested in looking at domestic resources or resources close to home, but they also want to have the opportunity to look at what’s available globally,” Cole said. “Our buy- ers have also mentioned that they are interested in eco-friendly suppliers that care about the envi- ronment, ones that concerned about human rights issues and labor relations, so we try to cover a broad range of topics in our seminar series and offer a broad range of exhibitors to our buyers.” The Lenzing Pavilion has 25 mills from the U.S. Europe and Asia showing knit and woven fabrics that use the company’s Tencel or Modal cellulosic fibers. Tricia Carey, USA merchandising manager for Lenzing, said the company will be highlighting the benefits of Tencel in shirting, as well as new ap- plications in denim and knits. In addition, there will be a Central America Sourcing lounge due to the demand in near sourcing from this region. “The garment industry is based on the combi- nation of ideas and business, with a complex sup- ply chain in between,” Carey said. “Texworld USA is a time for these design ideas to meet with the suppliers for creative innovations. Retail sales for 2014 have been tough, which puts more pressure on the supply for new ideas.” The Texworld seminar series organized by Lenzing will be the largest of all 17 Texworld USA shows so far. The 19 seminars are complimentary, with topics ranging from fiber, sourcing, sustain- ability, emerging business development, color forecasting and design trends. On opening day, July 22, the series kicks at 11 a.m. with “The What, Where and How of Garment Production.” On the panel are Anne Gillespie, director of integrity at Textile Exchange; Sam Moore, managing director of Hohenstein Institute America; Sandra Marquadt, Global Organic Textile Standard representative in North America, and Avedis Seferian, president and chief executive officer of Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production. They will discuss how to Tricia Carey Guglielmo Olearo insure a product is made responsibly and in com- pliance with industry regulations. At 2 p.m., a seminar on “Made in the than before the economic crisis. Companies are Americas” will feature Julie Reiser, presi- reducing their investment in China, which is one dent and ceo of Made in USA Certified; Sylvia reason PV New York has had success.” Reyes, apparel and textiles Director — USA As for the logistics of moving to the Piers on for Proexport Colombia; Lucia de Sander, the Hudson River from the Metropolitan Pavilion marketing and promotion coordinator at the in Midtown, Olearo said, “We’re going to assist our Guatemala Apparel & Textile Association, and visitors with all the services they need. We’ll have Matthew Burnett, cofounder of Maker’s Row. The shuttle busses and taxi service. We’re also going to focus here will be how working in the Western have a huge party to celebrate the new venue and Hemisphere and especially the U.S. can remove the new model of PV New York.” constraints found in longer supply chains. Also being staged on July 22 and 23 is Kingpins On July 23 at 11 a.m., experts including Rick New York, moving to new digs at Skylight Clarkson Helfenbein, president of Luen Thai USA; Jeff Sq in SoHo. Kreindel, director of sales and marketing at Pearl Texworld USA and the co-located International Global USA, and J.C. Mazingue, apparel trade ad- Apparel Sourcing Show and Home Sourcing viser for Origin Africa, will lead a discussion on NEW YORK Show take up shop July 22 at the Jacob K. Javits “Sourcing Outside China.” Convention Center for three days with an array of At 2 p.m., a panel on “Preferred Fibers, Making textile, manufacturing and sourcing exhibitors. the Right Fiber Choices,” will include Lenzing’s MY TEXWORLD Bobby Cole, marketing manager at Messe Carey, along with Pete Szanto, business devel- Frankfurt USA, which produces Texworld USA, opment manager at Dupont Sorona, and Robert Apparel Sourcing Show and Home Sourcing Show P. Antoshak, managing director of Olah Inc. The staged together at the Javits Center, said there focus here is on fibers that are preferred for their will be 433 exhibitors at Texworld and 185 at proven environmental credentials. Apparel Sourcing. At 4 p.m., Robert Frisby, an attorney at the Texworld will feature dedicated pavilions Federal Trade Commission, will discuss the latest July 22−24, 2014 from Lenzing Fibers and the countries of Turkey, FTC rules on textile labeling and advertising. Taiwan and Colombia, while Apparel Sourcing “The seminar series at Texworld USA provides Javits Convention Center will have a new pavilion from Guatemala, and re- a platform not only to learn about new products turning pavilions from Colombia and Mauritius. and developments, but also to exchange ideas and New York, NY With a free-trade agreement in place between opinions,” Carey said. “There are several panel the U.S. and Colombia since 2012, more than 209 discussions which allow for the interaction and Colombian textile companies have sold their expression of opinions.” products to the U.S. market for the first time, rep- resenting one of the largest growth sectors, ac- cording to Proexport Colombia. Proexport said in addition to a long history of garment and textile production in the coun- At a Glance try and its ability to provide flexible quantities, Colombia’s geographic location on the northwest- I Spinexpo, July 15 to 17, Metropolitan Co-located with ern corner of South America, bordered by the Pavilion & Altman Building, Caribbean Sea to the north side and the Pacific 123 West 18th Street. ApparelSourcing Ocean to the west, allowing potential suppliers to I Première Vision New York, July 22 provide competitive lead times. and 23, Pier 92, West 55th Street and the Home Textiles Sourcing Cole noted a wider diversity of exhibitors over- West Side Highway. all, with companies from Lithuania, Bulgaria, I Kingpins, July 22 and 23, Skylight Clarkson New Zealand, Austria and Germany, in a addition Sq, 550 Washington Street. to 10 mills from the U.S. I Texworld USA and the International “One of the things we’ve noticed at our shows Apparel Sourcing Show, July 22 to 24, Jacob K. is that we have all walks of life as far as attend- Javits Convention Center, 655 West 34th Street. ees,” Cole said. “We have everything from the emerging fashion designer to the large depart-

12 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014

TEXTILES Stephen Lamar, executive vice president of the American Apparel & ’’ Footwear Association, said AAFA “had a number of member companies do busi- Africa Emerging as Next Frontier ness in Madagascar, and they have been looking to get back in the country.” Apparel and textile imports from the that part of the world, as well,” Chirico said. Julia Hughes, president of the U.S. By KRISTI ELLIS 49 sub-Saharan African countries hit Rick Darling, executive director of gov- Fashion Industry Association, said an- 260.9 million square meter equivalents, ernment and public affairs at Li & Fung other country to keep an eye on is Kenya. AS SOURCING EXECUTIVES seek out valued at $983.8 million, for the year Trading Ltd., said infrastructure and de- Hughes said Kenya has grown signifi- the next fertile ground, they’re starting ending April, according to the American velopment problems have hampered the cantly and taken over the top role as the to take a closer look at several sub-Saha- Apparel & Footwear Association. investment in production on the conti- largest AGOA apparel supplier to the ran African countries as viable apparel Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief nent. Darling, in town for a sourcing sum- U.S., adding, “Lesotho is not far behind sourcing alternatives. executive officer of PVH Corp., com- mit in May, said there has been a renewed in terms of supplying the market and The renewed interest and investment menting on his company’s commitment interest in Ethiopia and Africa overall. there is definitely capacity for growth.” in Africa comes as the U.S. reviews the to sourcing in Africa at its annual meet- “Ethiopia has tremendous interest Lamar said Mauritius, which is bent African Growth & Opportunity Act. Under ing last month, said, “There are more from Europeans and Americans and pro- on becoming the fashion capital of the trade preference program, 40 of 49 duction is beginning to increase,” he said. Africa, is trying to build a competitive sub-Saharan African countries are eli- “Foreign investment is increasing and it advantage that is not directly dependent gible to receive duty benefits. President Ethiopia has could become a country to watch in the on duty preferences. Obama’s action to reinstate AGOA ben- next two to three years,” noting that Li & Hughes and Lamar stressed the impor- efits for Madagascar on Thursday, with Fung has apparel production there that tance of AGOA’ s renewal to keep the mo- final approval pending on apparel, gave tremendous interest could be expanded. “Ethiopia is certainly mentum growing in sub-Saharan Africa. importers more of an incentive to shift making an aggressive move.” “We are now in a place where compa- production to the region. from Europeans Paul Ryberg, president of the African nies are placing orders for delivery for a Industry officials are keeping a close Coalition for Trade, said, “There has been year from now and so we need Congress eye on AGOA, which expires in September and Americans and a big push by the Ethiopians to attract to act in order to show a new commitment 2015, because Congress must renew the investment and it has been successful, to sourcing in the region,” Hughes added. program and past delays have disrupted production is beginning with a major investment coming from a — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM business. AGOA contains a stipulation Turkish, vertically integrated operation. ARNOLD J. KARR known as the “third country fabric provi- The main thing is they have among the sion” that helps companies producing in 27 to increase. lowest, if not the lowest, cost of electric- least-developed countries that are part of — RICK DARLING, LI & FUNG ity in Africa and the government is putting the pact to use fabrics outside of the region together some attractive incentives.” and still receive duty-free benefits when TRADING LTD. Ryberg said Ethiopia also has its own Out of Africa shipping to the U.S. cotton production and easy access to The top five apparel and textile The White House is hosting the challenging areas to source around the Egyptian cotton, adding, “It seems to be the suppliers under AGOA first U.S.-Africa Leaders’ Summit in world, be it Bangladesh, the rest of Asia. place that looks like it has a lot of potential.” (by square meter equivalents). Washington Aug. 5 and 6 aimed at build- We’re talking about developing eastern Madagascar, which at one time was ing on progress made since Obama’s Africa as a place for sourcing. We’re in the second-largest AGOA apparel suppli- 1. Kenya: 96.6 million SME trip to Africa last summer, where he there very early really challenging that.” er, could also climb back up as long as its 2. Lesotho: 69.2 million SME launched a Trade Africa initiative to Chirico said while PVH explores the re- duty-free apparel benefits are restored, 3. Mauritius: 30 million SME increase imports 40 percent from the gion, it will make factory conditions and the which many industry officials expect to East African Community nations — “appropriate treatment” of workers a priority. now happen fairly quickly. 4. South Africa: 13.9 million SME Kenya, Burundi, Rwanda, Tanzania and “By us being there as part of the initial “Madagascar has the potential to go 5. Swaziland: 13.4 million SME Uganda — by reducing transport time wave that goes into that continent…we will gangbusters now,” said Ryberg. “It will * SOURCE: U.S. COMMERCE DEPARTMENT and customs delay. try to lay our culture and’’ our values into come back pretty strong.” Enrich your passion for fashion

July 22-23 2014 Fall Winter 1516 New locati o n Pier 92 NEW YORK

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gy and business development, as well as a team of eight who are Lou Takes Social Approach to Fashion responsible for content — and making it shoppable. Skokna has a twofold reve- their time, hopefully multiple nue plan. The first is to partner By RACHEL STRUGATZ times a day. Instead of checking with publishers or brands and Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, allow them to use Lou’s pro- LOU IS LOOKING to put fash- Pinterest, or a magazine or prietary technology to create ion content from Instagram, bloggers’ Web sites to see what’s content and commerce expe- Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest happening in fashion, Lou keeps riences. The other is to either and more into one sleek, shop- track of social updates in one keep a percentage from trans- pable package. place. Users can choose who actions that take place on Lou The technology start-up they want to follow on the app, or to sell advertising. launched a tablet-only app this which is updated in real time Fashion is just the first week, which pulls the latest and is largely shoppable. vertical of many that Skokna social media posts from what “We’re constantly working envisions will use the com- it deems to be 150 of fashion’s on expanding the network. pany’s technology platform. leading voices. The content is The plan is to become the Bridal will roll out in the com- divided by designers, fashion main source of inspiration for ing months, and the plan is to insiders, magazines, muses, luxury fashion,” Skokna said, get into beauty, men’s toys and street-style photographers and adding that the name Lou is kids. Within fashion, though, bloggers and users can choose inspired by cultural icons that Skokna said that Lou will to look at the latest posts by share the same namesake, have a global reach, including category or all together via such as Lou Doillon and Lou Brazilian and Chinese versions “The Latest Inspiration.” An Reed. “That does not end with that specifically target the fash- iPhone version to set to bow in 150 sources — but we had to ion enthusiast in each of those two months. start somewhere.” Lou launched a tablet-only app to highlight content from social media posts. countries. “It’s fluid and elas- Founder David Skokna, who The venture is self-funded tic,” he said. “It can be topic- started working on the app 18 by Skokna, who also founded Target, HBO Go and Pepsi. Lou headquarters (they will relocate based or [we can] localize it. months ago, is looking to build digital agency Huge Inc. in 1999, already has a staff of nearly 30 to Manhattan’s Flatiron District It’s easy for us to tune in and Lou into a destination where where he worked for clients employees, who work out of the Aug. 1), including 15 developers, adjust it for those specific mar- users spend five minutes of such as CNN, Ikea, JetBlue, company’s Brooklyn Heights five who work on design, strate- kets or interests.” Kusnetz Departs Robert Graham Target Hires 3 Senior Tech Execs NEAL KUSNETZ, Robert Graham’s longtime president, has left the company, according to market sources. Prior to consulting for Target, Wizemann founded A spokesman for the men’s and women’s apparel brand declined By SHARON EDELSON ShopIgniter, an enterprise social commerce and to confirm or deny the report when marketing platform, and also worked with several reached for comment on Monday. TARGET CORP. continues to shore up its tech- other start-ups. Kusnetz was a founding part- nology team. David Weissman was named president of ner of the New York-based brand, The retailer on Monday said it had made three DermStore, based in El Segundo, Calif., which best known for its wildly patterned external senior-level hires who will be responsi- Target acquired last year. The skin-care e-com- men’s woven shirts designed by ble for leading teams across information technol- merce site has allowed Target to expand its share Robert Stock. Kusnetz had served ogy, e-commerce and digital products. of the online beauty market under the online as its president for the past 13 years, Jim Fisher was named senior vice presi- name DermStore.com. overseeing sales, business develop- dent of infrastructure and operations for Target Weissman was previously executive vice presi- ment, merchandising, brand devel- Technology Services, where he will oversee the dent, e-commerce and omnichannel at BCBG Max opment and strategic partnerships. company’s technical infrastructure and opera- Azria Group Inc. He also held several senior- Before that, he spent three years at tions. During his 35-year career, Fisher has held level positions during his 10-year tenure at GSI Calvin Klein as sales director. positions at The Home Depot USA Inc., Macy’s Commerce Inc. Originally only a men’s shirt Inc. and IBM Corp. Prior to joining Target, Fisher “At Target, we’ve said one of our top priorities brand, Robert Graham has since was senior vice president of global infrastructure is accelerating our digital transformation, and expanded into a variety of other cat- operations at First Data Corp., where he was these new hires are a signal of our commitment egories including tailored clothing, Neal responsible for security engineering and opera- to that effort,” said Jodeen Kozlak, chief human denim, eyewear, footwear and wom- Kusnetz tions, database and data administration, asset resources officer of Target. en’s wear. The brand received a management and IT facilities. The appointments follow a number of other cash infusion from Tengram Capital Alan Wizemann was named vice president recent external senior-level hires, including Brad Partners LLC in June 2011 and since that time has doubled its vol- of target.com and mobile product, where he Maiorino, senior vice president and chief infor- ume to more than $300 million. will oversee digital product teams. For the past mation security officer; Peter Glusker, senior vice The company has also significantly expanded its retail pres- two years, Wizemann had been consulting with president, new business integration and opera- ence with 11 stores around the country as well as more than 70 Target and leading various product teams, in- tions, and Kristi Argyilan, senior vice president, in-store shops at specialty stores and a few department stores. cluding Target’s mobile coupon app, Cartwheel. media and guest engagement. Kusnetz could not be reached Monday and Bill Sweedler, co- founder of Tengram, did not return phone calls seeking comment. — JEAN E. PALMIERI Neiman Marcus Taps Asay for Last Call Cambodia Factory Numbers Grow officially starts at NMG on Aug. 4 and succeeds By DAVID MOIN Ann Paolini, who left last December to join The By DANIEL DE CARTERET RealReal, an online consignment site for luxury. LIZ ASAY has joined the Neiman Marcus Group Inc. Unlike the Last Call outlets, the Last Call PHNOM PENH, Cambodia — Despite months of industry turmoil, as senior vice president of the Last Call division. Studio stores have “no residues” of merchandise garment factory registration in Cambodia increased to 1,200 at the “Last Call, the off-price that didn’t sell at Neiman’s end of June, up 8 percent from the number recorded at the end division of Neiman Marcus Liz and operate as off-pricers. of 2013, according to data released by the government last week. Group, will continue to expand Asay Eighty percent of the Last Call The number of industry workers has also increased, to more through the Last Call Studios Studio assortment is supplied than 733,300 for the first six months of the year from 677,600 at concept as well as lastcall. by the same Neiman’s vendor the end of last year. com,” said Karen Katz, presi- base, but the merchandise, The half-yearly figures, released by the newly formed Ministry dent and chief executive officer which emphasizes contempo- of Industry and Handicrafts, come amid unrest in the sector of Neiman Marcus Group. rary lines, is different. spurred by protests over the minimum wage. “We think Liz will not only In a recent interview, Katz Tensions escalated in January when a nationwide strike call- fit well into our strong ser- described the environments ing for a rise to the minimum wage to $160 a month turned fatal vice-oriented culture, but she at Last Call Studio as “clean and five people were killed after police opened fire on protesters. will bring leadership ability and modern” and the custom- Calling it a “good sign” for the industry, Mean Sophea, under- that is crucial to this growth ers as “affluent yet still price- secretary of state at the ministry, declined to comment further area of the company,” Katz sensitive.” Last Call Studio on the effect the unrest has had on the country’s garment sector. added. “With her strong back- stores are 15,000-square-foot, However, Ken Loo, secretary general of the Garment ground in building new con- loftlike settings, compared Manufacturers Association in Cambodia, was cautious of the new cepts and e-commerce, Liz has with the 25,000-square-foot data, which he said did not account for deregistration or factories the experience and expertise Last Call outlets. Katz be- leaving. Loo noted that the data reflected business registration to lead our Last Call division. lieves Last Call Studio outlets only and factories are still cautious about committing to invest in More importantly, she has the can operate in a variety of set- the country following the January protests. energy and imagination to en- tings, from lifestyle centers to “The rate of growth is slowing down, even though things are hance how our Last Call customers shop and in- downtowns and next to regular-price retailers. still growing,” Loo said. teract with the brand both on- and offline.” Last Call currently operates 30 Last Call clear- “There continues to be investors coming into Cambodia, but what’s Asay was senior vice president of e-com- ance centers, eight Last Call Studio stores, as more important is to ensure that they stay in Cambodia,” he said. merce and Sephora at J.C. Penney Co. Inc. She well as lastcall.com. 14 WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014

“‘It’ girls unite.” FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE WWD.com/eye.

“Forget about it.” “Beach twerk.”

“They said no.…We said #shhhh.” “Red, white and blue. How sexy of you.”

PHOTO DIARY Ben’s Star Wattage

SHARK ATTACK SOUNDS, the pseudo-rave-bacchanal thrown annually in Montauk, N.Y., by Ben “Pop-looking Lipps.” Watts, Ben Pundole and Mazdack Rassi, got a makeover this go-around. This year, its 12th, the bash was scaled down from nearly 4,000 revelers to a decidedly quieter affair of 300 notables (the party’s running #shhhh hashtag never rang more true). The location — beachside at the newly revamped Gurney’s Inn — was kept under wraps to ensure the intimacy of the affair, with the event’s Web site leaving an obscure “Coming Soon” message up until the day of the party. Those who found their way there were met by a sea of tan limbs flailing about — punctuated by inflatable shark toys and glowing foam light sticks (both branded with “#SHARKATTACK”) as well as sparklers — in front of the blaring DJ table, manned by Chelsea Leyland. Models and notables — Athena Calderone, Jenné Lombardo, Scott Lipps, Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Michael Avedon — bopped around and guzzled Watt’s WattsUp Rosé. Theophilus London’s post-Leyland performance was cut short — the party got rained out a little after 10 p.m. — prompting notables to scurry up the sand, hop in their Ubers and shuttle over to Surf Lodge. WWD enlisted the man at the center of the thumping heart of it all — Watts himself — to document the fun while it lasted. Here, his photo diary.

“Sexy drinks.” eye

“Mic check with “People I know.… TL London.” Good to go!”

“Inflatable shark “Wristwear.” attacking.” WWD TUESDAY, JULY 8, 2014 15 WWD.COM

There is also a charity component, CHARM OFFENSIVE: Fendi is crashing where 100 percent of proceeds from a the couture party once more, marking $1,295 yellow pearlescent Love clutch, the imminent arrival of its Karlito bag FASHION SCOOPS exclusive to the site, will go to the Mount charm with a party tonight at its Avenue Sinai Parenting Center. Montaigne boutique in Paris. Edie Parker is carried in 80 The limited-edition, fur pom- GOING FOR GOLD: Poured into a short, than-ritzy suburbs of Paris, and is now doors worldwide, including pom, in the likeness of Karl gold sequined dress, Charlize Theron back in town for couture. Does she feel Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Lagerfeld, Fendi’s designer of resembled a living J’adore ad as she like she has gone from one extreme to Marcus, Net-a-porter and fur and ready-to-wear since strolled into the Dior couture show the other? “Yes, and I feel like I still don’t Matches London. 1965, features black mink on the arm of Sean Penn. Turns out the know Paris,” she said with a laugh. — RACHEL STRUGATZ sunglasses, a silver fox body actress recently shot a new commercial Chiara Mastroianni said she would star and a tuft of goat fur. for the hit fragrance. “It’s an evolution” alongside her mother, Catherine Deneuve, SHOP TALK: Valentino’s Model Cara Delevingne is all she would say. and Charlotte Gainsbourg in French creative directors Maria introduced the latest of the Theron added that she would head director Benoît Jacquot’s drama “Trois Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Roman brand’s Bag Bugs to her home country of South Africa coeurs” (“Three Hearts”), set for release Piccioli joined fashion at its fall runway show in in the second week of August to start on Sept. 17. designers including Azzedine Christian STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE Milan last February. The filming on “The Last Face,” directed by Bianca Jagger, meanwhile, is Alaïa, Christian Louboutin and Louboutin wait list opened last month,

Penn and costarring Javier Bardem. “She organizing a benefit gala in London on Roger Vivier’s Bruno Frisoni PHOTO BY and more than 600 people is somebody who works in the world of Oct. 14 for her Bianca Jagger Human at the Schiaparelli show have already signed up for humanitarian relief,” the actress said Rights Foundation. The “Arts for on Monday. “We believe in couture, so the bauble, priced at 1,240 euros, or of her character. Human Rights” event will be sponsored we think it’s important to support the $1,685, according to Fendi. Deliveries Rosamund Pike, her nascent baby by Dior and chairs include gallerist couture week,” Chiuri said. are to start in September, accompanied bump concealed beneath a pink cocoon Thaddaeus Ropac, art curator Lady Elena She noted Valentino recently opened a by special window displays emblazoned coat, said she was taking a break after Foster and artists Marina Abramovic and new atelier in Rome, its third, dedicated with “Love Karl.” — M.S. wrapping David Fincher’s film adaptation Marc Quinn, she said. to couture for men and turning out of the best-selling novel “Gone Girl,” in “The theme of the event is ending such luxurious items as double-faced which she plays the title character Amy violence against women cashmere coats. “We believe Dunne opposite Ben Affleck. and girls and the culture of in one-of-a-kind,” she said, “Amy is probably one of the least impunity,” Jagger added. noting Valentino employs 70 maternal people you’re going to meet,” — WWD STAFF seamstresses in couture. Inès de la Fressange, in the A STITCH IN TIME: Having throes of relaunching her worn costumes designed by signature brand, said she Christian Lacroix for her recent wants to shake things up, performance in George believing the current fashion Balanchine’s “Le Palais de system is out of whack with Cristal” at the Paris National needs. “When you’re looking Opera, Marie-Agnès Gillot for something for summer, all will be donning something they have is cashmere and even more exclusive for Marie-Agnès DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE tweed,” she lamented. De la her next performance. The Fressange said her ultimate STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE Gillot prima ballerina, who was aim is to open a boutique

among guests at the Alexis PHOTO BY on the Left Bank of Paris to

Mabille haute couture show in Paris on showcase a range of licensed products in TRIO ANTONELLO Cara Delevingne and Monday, has collaborated with Swiss the works. “If you don’t have a shop, it’s BY Fendi’s Karlito charm. artist Olivier Mosset for a show titled abstract,” she said. — MILES SOCHA PHOTO “Irrévérence(s)” that will run from July HEAD

18 to 24 as part of Avignon’s famed arts festival. “We created a work of art with

Olivier Mosset, an artistic painting on a Sean Penn and canvas, that will serve as my costume,

Charlize Theron and Alexis kindly helped me to sew this ITS ON

PENN, LAWRENCE AND LOUBOUTIN PHOTOS BY PENN, LAWRENCE AND LOUBOUTIN work of art,” she said.

Actor Raphaël Personnaz and celebrity said the British actress, though she was pastry chef Christophe Michalak also careful not to leak any plot spoilers. attended the show. — JOELLE DIDERICH WORLD

“We can say she’s complicated and she has many sides, you know, she’s not a EDIE PARKER GOES BESPOKE: Handbag simple creature by any means. It was brand Edie Parker — known for its nice having free rein to explore so Lucite minaudières with kitschy many aspects of being female. I think phrases like “baller” and “hold it” — FASHION women are often not allowed to portray has launched e-commerce via its site anger and women in movies are usually edie-parker.com. This marks the first playing second fiddle to the men.” time the collection, which was launched Other guests at the show in the in 2010, will sell direct to consumer, THE gardens of the Musée Rodin, held in a founder and creative director Brett circular tent decorated with thousands of white orchids, included Marion Cotillard, Isabelle Huppert, Zhang Ziyi, Marisa Berenson, COMING FALL 2014 Amira Casar, Bernadette Chirac, Luca TURNING Guadagnino and Valérie Trierweiler, who wore a T-shirt emblazoned with the hashtag #BringBackOurGirls. The journalist (and former first girlfriend of French President François Hollande) made sure to be photographed next to Theron in order to bring attention to the students kidnapped by Boko Haram, the Islamist sect, in Nigeria. Due to a power failure on the Eurostar, Jennifer Lawrence and Emma Watson only just L Edie Parker’s Web site. made it to the second show, held for clients. But Heyman told WWD. In addition Lawrence, who snapped to carrying the largest pictures on her smartphone, assortment of her bags, there had only one regret. “We should is a bespoke portion of the site have shot some where consumers can build selfies,” she FOR MORE their own clutch. said backstage SCOOPS, SEE Jennifer Retailing for $1,595 and after the show, Lawrence $1,795 for a small and large enthusing WWD.com. size, consumers can select about the color, hardware, font and text elaborate floral color. For the time being, Heyman arrangements. said, offerings for this service The Oscar-winning actress has will mirror what the brand’s best- become somewhat of a regular in selling colors are, like black, silver the French capital. Last month she confetti glitter, gold confetti glitter was shooting “The Hunger Games: and nude pearlescent. (She will New face. New attitude.

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