Bodice Base Fdi111 Table of Content
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS BODICE BASE FDI111 TABLE OF CONTENT
Pattern pieces ...... 3 Pattern block ...... 4
SEWING ...... 5 1. Basting the bodice ...... 6 2. Darts ...... 6 3. Front shoulder dart ...... 7 4. Shoulder seams ...... 7 5. Side seams ...... 8 6. Sleeves ...... 8
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS PATTERN PIECES
Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2
Bodice Bodice Back 2 Back 1 Bodice Front
BODICE FABRIC PIECES
Bodice Front Bodice Back 1 Bodice Back 2 Sleeve 1 Sleeve 2
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 3 PATTERN PIECES the sleevecapeaseisvariable. 5. Mediumwidthsleeve withnarrowingattheelbowlevel.Depending onyourupperarmcircumference, 4. Thebodicehastheclosureatcenterback seam. two. 3. Dependingonyourchestcircumference garmentcanincludeseveralbustdarts-fromoneto main chestcircumference/2+3/8”(1cm). 2. Thehalfoftheblockincludebasic3/8”(1cm) amountofallowanceforeaseandcomfort:butitisnot lines orseamallowance. elaborate design.Blockareconstructedusing yourindividualmeasurementsanddonotshowanystyle 1. Ablockisatwodimensionaltemplateforbasicgarmentfromthatcanbemodiedinto amore FDI111 BODICE BASE armscye back head
waistline side seam dart shoulder bust line back seamline dart elbow
bottom
front seamline waist dart center front front head PATTERN BLOCK
front seamline shoulder bottom dart P age side seam dart elbow
4 back seamline
waistline side seam dart shoulder back head bust line torso line waist dart
center back back length dart leg
center back bust line torso line intake dart center dart shoulder PATTERN BLOCK waist dart dart
side seam armscye SEWING
Fabric key Fabric recommendations:
Challis Viscose Challis Suiting Tencel Twill
Medium (6oz-8oz / 204g - 272g)
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Elastane 0 - 3 % fabric fabric interfacing
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage in bias grain a r g s s o grain line r c selvage =” =” lengthwise grain selvage
1. Place the fabric on the table. 2. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. 5. Add seam allowances. You can add your seam allowance directly onto your fabric or onto paper rst. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length.
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 5 SEWING 1. BASTING THE BODICE
1.1
Baste the bodice for a possible tting. The bodice can be basted in the following order: 1. Baste the darts; 2. Sew all the seams; 3. Use safety pins to close up the closure, to look at the prototype (muslin) results.
2. DARTS
2.1
darts Depending on your body measurements your garment can include several bust darts. The total amount of darts may dier from the technical drawing.
2.2
stitch direction
Fold the dart. Match the notches and dart lines (fold by dart center line). Sew the darts. Sew starting at the raw edge.
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 6 SEWING 2.3
press toward the center Press the darts - darts should be pressed toward the center. Always start at the broad end on the dart and press toward the point.
3. FRONT SHOULDER DART
3.1
The total amount of ease is 1/4” (5 mm)
Sew the darts, match the notches and dart lines. The side dart leg is longer than the middle dart leg. When you sew dart, you need gather side dart leg. Press dart toward the center.
4. SHOULDER SEAMS
4.1
The total amount of ease is 1/4” (5 mm)
Place the front and back of the bodice together at the shoulder seams. The back shoulder edge is longer than the front. When you sew shoulder seams, you need gather back shoulder seam.
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 7 SEWING 5. SIDE SEAMS
5.1
Sew the bodice side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and seamlines.
6. SLEEVE
6.1
Sewing the sleeve seams, between the notches, the back seam needs to be gathered. The total amount of ease is 5/8” (1.5 cm). Sewing the sleeve seams, the front seam needs stretching. The total amount of stretch should not be more than 3/8” (1 cm). Sew the back sleeve seam to the front sleeve seam, with the right sides together. Press the seams. notches
6.2
1/5 1/5
1/5 1/5 The base construction of the armscye has notches for sewing the sleeve and the picture shows how the ease is distributed between them. 1/5 This is a place where the sleeve is never held in order to avoid unnecessary cross-creases in the upper arm of the sleeve. front back
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 8 SEWING 6.3
1. 2.
The highest ease is required between the center and the front 1st control point, while the lowest is between the 1st and 2nd front control point.
6.4
Run two rows of machine gathering stitches between the notches on the sleeve cap. Place one row on the seamline, and the other row 1/8” (3 mm) outside of the stitching line toward the raw edge. Pin the sleeve into the armscye, matching all the markings. Draw up the gathering threads so that the sleeve ts perfectly into the armscye. Distribute the fullness evenly. Remove the sleeve from the garment. Fasten the gathering threads. Stitch seam, holding sleeve topmost. Control the distribution of ease and stitch straight. * In the construction method, the sleeve sewing seam is not equivalent to the bodice side seam. Sleeve and side seams do not need to be aligned.
BODICE BASE FDI111 Page 9 SEWING