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OCCUPATIONAL SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

SHORT COURSE For Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector

GARMENT PRODUCTION Types of Fullness TH007vi

RATIONALE

This short course was developed as a resource material for the trainer. This module is one in a series of nine, which covers all competences standard in Types of Fullness in level one Garment Production. Due to the demand STRU has developed this short course for the community and other stake holders to have better knowledge and skills in producing quality garments. Furthermore the course aim is to create a link for training those unskilled people in the community to have the opportunity to learn the basic construction skills in garment production.

p o box 1097, waigani national capital district papua new guinea. tel: (675) 323 2633 The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG fax: (675) 323 0944 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU) NOT FOR SALE Types of Fullness

TABLE OF CONTENT

CONTENTS Pages

Course Outline 2

Competency Profile 3 – 4 • Types of Fullness

Curriculum Guide 5

Overview of Learning Outcomes 6 – 7 • Darts • Gathering • • Tucks

Appendix 8 – 12

Attachments 13 • Safety Rules • Glossary

Acknowledgement 14

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 1 Types of Fullness

COURSE OUTLINE: Types of Fullness

Program: Tourism and Hospitality

Course: Garment Production

Module code: TH007vi

Module name: Types of Fullness

Module1: Workplace Health and Safety

Module 2: Learning to Sew

Module 3: Basic Hand Stitches

Module 4: Decorative Stitches

Module 5: Seams

Module 6: Types of Fullness

Module 7: Types of Attachments

Module 8: Types of

Module 9: Types of Fasteners

2 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Fullness

COMPETENCY PROFILE: Types of Fullness

Duty Task

A. Workplace A1. Safety regulations A2. Hazard/risk A3. Contingency Health and measures Safety

B. Introduction B1. Define B2. Identify tools and B3. to Sewing supplies operation [NECESSITIES OF SEWING ]

B4. Sewing area

C. Basic Hand C1. Tacking C2. Running stitch C3. Back stitch Stitches [B ASIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES ]

C4. Slip stitch C5. Overcasting stitch C6.

D. Types of D1. D2. Stem stitch D3. Satin stitch Decorative Stitches

D4. Scross stitch D5. Herringbone stitch D6. Lazy daisy stitch

D7. French knot stitch D8. Cretan stitch

E. Types of E1. Open E2. French seam E3. Flat seam Seams

F. Types of F1. Construct darts F2. Sew gathering F3. Sew pleats Fullness

F4. Sew tucks

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 3 Types of Fullness

COMPETENCY PROFILE: Types of Hems

Duties Task

G. Types of G1. Attach G2. Attach G3. Attach Attachments

G4. Attach G5. Attach cuffs G6. Attach

H. Types of H1. Sew a turned up- H2. Sew a faced edge H3. Sew an enclosed Hems edge edge

I. Types of I1. Attach hooks and I2. Sew snaps for I3. Sew snaps Fasteners eyes for overlap, overlap, just meet just meet and edges and may exposed edges show

I4. Sew self gripping I5. Make decorative I6. Attach fasteners fasteners

I7. Make and

4 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Fullness

CURRICULUM GUIDE

Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY Course: GARMENT PRODUCTION Module code: TH007vi Module name : Types of Fullness Module purpose: The purpose of the module is to impart and equip participants with essential skills and knowledge in sewing different types of fullness. Nominal duration: The module will take approximately 4 hours. Prerequisites: There is no prerequisite for this module. Content: F1. Darts F2. Gathering F3. Pleats F4. Tucks Suggested delivery method: The short course will be delivered in a practical, hands-on manner. 1. Explanation (what we will do) 5% 2. Demonstration (how we will do it) 15% 3. Implementation (now you do it) 70% 4. Evaluation (how good did we do it) 10% Instructor: The trainer preferred will be a recognized trainer from the community or a trained vocational teacher who has sewing skill. Assessment condition: In a classroom or training with proper: • lighting, ventilation • table and chairs • sewing tools and equipment Reference: 1. Complete Guide to Sewing 2. Complete Book of Handcrafts

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 5 Types of Fullness

Overview of Learning Outcomes APPENDIX 2: Training and Assessment Guide On successfully completion of the course (Learning outcome). participants will be able to sew samples of Task F2: Gathering different types of fullness. Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour

Learning outcome F2.1: APPENDIX 1: Training and Assessment Guide • Sew samples of gathering using the two (Learning outcome). methods.

Task F1: Darts Teaching strategy: Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Learning activities for the trainee must include the instructor to; Learning outcome F1.1: 2.1 Identify steps in removing the bed linings. • Construct samples of the two types of darts. 2.2 Identify methods of gathering. Teaching strategy: 2.3 Explain where the gathering can be applied Learning activities for the trainee must include on garments. the instructor to; 2.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the 1.1 Identify equipment and materials to use. gathering. 1.2 Identify the types of darts. Assessment condition: 1.3 Explain where the darts can be applied on a In a classroom situation or a training hall where garment. all participants are provided with; 1.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the darts. • teaching notes • sewing machine Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where • (14cm (L) x 5cm (W) – Band all participants are provided with; • (8cm (L) x 20cm (W) – gathering • teaching notes • sample of a sewn gathering • sewing machine • • samples of sewn darts • threads • scissors Assessment criteria: • threads The participant has; • tacking 2.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to uses. Assessment criteria: 2.1.2 Outlined methods of gathering. The participant has; 2.1.3 Outlined where the gathering can be 1.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. applied on a garment. 1.2.2 Named the types of darts. 2.1.4 Applied procedures in sewing the gatherings. 1.2.3 Outlined where the darts can be applied on a garment. Assessment method: 1.2.4 Applied procedures in sewing the darts. • Observation • Oral questioning Assessment method: • Observation • Practical demonstration • Oral questioning • Practical demonstration

6 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Fullness

APPENDIX 3: Training and Assessment Guide APPENDIX 4: Training and Assessment Guide (Learning outcome). (Learning outcome).

Task F3: Pleats Task F4: Tucks Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour

Learning outcome F3.1: Learning outcome F4.1: • Sew samples of three different types of pleats. • Sew samples of three different types of tucks.

Teaching strategy: Teaching strategy: Learning activities for the participants must Learning activities for the participants must include the instructor to; include the instructor to; 3.1 Identify tools and equipment to use. 4.1 Identify tools and equipment to use. 3.2 Identify the types of pleats. 4.2 Identify the types of tucks. 3.2 Explain where the pleats can be applied on 4.3 Explain where the tucks can be applied on garments. garments. 3.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the pleats. 4.4 Demonstrate procedures in sewing the tucks. Assessment condition: Assessment condition: In a classroom situation or a training hall where In a classroom situation or a training hall where the participants are provided with; the participants are provided with; • teaching notes • teaching notes • sewing machine • sewing machine • (14cm (L) x 5cm (W) • (15cm (L) x 15cm (W) • (8cm (L) x 20cm (W) • sample of a sewn tucks • sample of a sewn pleats • sample of a sewn pleats • scissors • scissors • threads • threads

Assessment criteria: Assessment criteria: The participant has; The participant has; 3.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. 4.1.1 Listed tools and equipment to use. 3.1.2 Named the types of pleats. 4.1.2 Named the types of tucks. 3.1.3 Outlined where the pleats can be applied 4.1.3 Outlined where the tucks can be applied on on a garment. a garment. 3.1.4 Applied procedures in sewing the pleats. 4.1.4 Applied procedures in sewing the tucks.

Assessment method: Assessment method: • Observation • Observation • Oral questioning • Oral questioning • Practical demonstration • Practical demonstration

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 7 Types of Fullness

APPENDIX 5: Introduction What if the has two points? A double-pointed straight dart is made exactly ARRANGEMENTS OF FULLNESS like a standard straight dart, except that you start One of the first things to be done in making up a at the center of the dart and stitch to one tip. garment is to arrange the fullness. Repeat for the other end, overlapping a few These are darts, gathers, pleats and tucks. stitches in the center of the dart. Clip the dart at its widest part. This clip allows the Instructional Notes dart to spread open a bit so that it lies flat. Tools and supplies required • Sewing machine Stitch in the • Scissors direction of • 1 metre kalico ( according to the 15cm x 15cm the arrows (only a suggested measurement) • Threads • • Tacking pins Clip the dart at its F1: Darts widest part What are darts? Darts are construction details that shape fabric to the curves of the body. Darts can be straight (for an easy fit) or curved (for a closer-to-the-body fit). How do I avoid a bubble at the tip of my dart? Darts are typically found in the bust, waist and As you stitch to the point, take the last few hip areas, where the body is the most contoured. stitches right on the fold. There are two types of darts; Leave the ends long enough to tie in a knot. • A single-pointed dart is wide at one end and To tie, loop the threads into a half knot, and then pointed at the other. insert a into the loop so that its tip is at the tip • A sharp dart has points at both ends - It is of the dart. usually used at the , with the points Pull the thread ends until the knot tightens extending to the bust and hips. against the tip of the pin. How do I make a straight dart? Remove the pin and clip the thread ends, leaving The standard straight dart starts at a seam line _” to _” (6mm to 1.3cm) tails. and tapers to nothing at its tip. To construct this dart: What about curved darts? With rights sides together, fold the fabric through Curved darts give a closer-to-the-body fit. the center of the dart, matching the markings and Because the dart is curved, it is important to the stitching lines. stitch its shape accurately. To do this, you will need to mark the entire stitching line (broken line) Place pins at right angles to the stitching line. and any dots before you begin to sew. Use any Stitch the dart from the wide end to the point, marking method that is suitable for your fabric. removing the pins as you go. When you are ready to stitch, fold the fabric right sides together through the center of the dart, matching the stitching lines and the markings. For a single-pointed curved dart, stitch from the widest part to the tip. For a double-pointed curved dart, stitch in two steps and clip, just like for a double-pointed straight dart.

What is a “dart seam?” A “dart seam” is long, curved dart that starts at the hipline of the side seam and extends diagonally to the bust. It is sometimes referred to as a French dart. The piece is designed so that the dart has cut edges, rather than center fold line. This makes the dart easier to sew and

8 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Fullness eliminates bulk. When the cut edges are brought To work gathers together and the dart is stitched, the result looks The basic procedure like a seam with a point at the end. Follow the same marking and stitching procedures as for 1. Work 2 rows of stitches, 0.25” (6mm) either any other dart. A dart seam is usually pressed flat side of the seam line and knot the threads at on one side, then open for most of its length and one end. flat at the tip.

Seam line

Machine gathering stitches

2. Gently pull the threads from one end feeding the fabric evenly down the gathers. How do I press darts? 3. Wind the threads in a figure of eight round a As a rule, darts are first pressed flat, then open or pin at the side when the required length is to one side as indicated in the pattern instructions. achieved. Normally, vertical darts are pressed towards the center and horizontal darts are pressed downward. Occasionally, the sewing instructions will tell you to slash the dart along the fold line and then press it open. This is done to give a smoother appearance.

Gathering stitches

4. Instead of machine stitches a small running stitch can be used especially when a long length is to be gathered.

Perfect darts are straight and smooth, not puckered at the ends. The darts on the right and left sides of the garment should have the same placement and length.

F2: Gathering Seam line Gathering is the process of drawing a given amount of fabric into predetermined, smaller area Running along one or several stitching lines, to create soft, stitches even folds. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs or , or as ruffles. It is done after construction seams have been stitched, seam-finished and pressed.

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 9 Types of Fullness

Other methods of gathering F3: Pleats Hand stitching can replace machine stitching for gathering small areas or very delicate fabrics. Use Pleats are folds in fabric that provide controlled small even running stitches, hand-sew at least fullness. Pleating may occur as a single , as two rows for best control. To , gently pull a cluster, or around an entire garment section. unknotted ends of threads. Basically, each pleat is folded along a specific line, generally called the foldline , and the fold aligned with another line, the placement line . Most pleats are formed by continuous piece of fabric onto itself. Pleats can be folded in several different styles; the most common ones are: • knife pleat • box pleat • inverted pleat are illustrated below Pleat folds can be soft or sharp, depending on how they are pressed, but any pleat will hang better if it is folded on the straight , at least from the hip down. Hand stitching A gathering foot – automatically gathers with each machine takes. The longer the stitch, the more closely the fabric will be gathered. Determined amount of fabric needed by Under fold measuring a sample before and after gathering. e n i l t n e e n m i l e c d l a l o P F

Pleats Types of pleats Knife pleats: Have one fold-line and one placement line; all the folds are turned in the same direction. Gathering foot Some garments may have one cluster facing one Zigzag stitching – over a thin, strong cord is way and other facing the opposite way. useful when a long strip or bulky fabric is to be gathered. Place cord 1/4” above seamline; use widest over cord to hold it in place. Pull on cord to form gathers.

Cord

Knife pleats

Zigzag stitching

10 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Fullness

Box pleats: Have two foldlines and two placements Accordion pleats: Are very narrow pleats of lines; the two folds of each pleat are turned away uniform width resembling the bellows of an one another. The backfolds in box pleats are facing accordion. Front fold stand slightly away from the and may or may not meet – it is not necessary. body, giving flared effect. Best done by a commercial pleater.

Box pleats Inverted pleats: Have two foldlines and a common Accordian pleat placement line. The two folds of each pleat are turned toward each other and in this case they F4: Tucks must meet. The backfolds face away from each other. A tuck is a stitched fold of fabric that is most often decorative in purpose, but it can also be a shaping device. Each tuck is formed from two stitching lines that are matched and stitched; the fold of the tuck’s width is the distance from the fold to the matched lines. The width can vary, as can the space between tucks. Most tucks are stitched on the straight grain, parallel to the fold, and so are uniform in width. Tucks are made on fine fabric and mostly on the right side of fabric. Both hand and machine stitching are used to make tucks. There are three types of tucks:

Inverted pleats The tucks that meet are called blind tucks Other types of pleating are best done commercially by machines, such as: Pleat with separate underlay: An inverted pleat in appearance, but constructed with separate underlay that forms underside of pleat. Incase place of usual two backfolds, there are two seams.

Blind tucks

Pleat with separate underlay

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 11 Types of Fullness

Those with spaced between them are spaced Pressing tucks tucks 1. Press each tuck flat as it was stitched. If pressing from right side, be sure to use a press cloth so as not to mar the fabric.

Spaced tucks A very narrow tuck is a pin tuck 2. Then press all tucks in the direction in which they will be worn. To keep the ends of all tucks in position during balance of garment construction, staystitch across them as shown.

Pin tuck How to make a tuck 1. Mark the stitching lines of each tuck. Width of tuck is one-half the distance between its stitching lines.

Stitching lines

2. Remove pattern. Fold tuck to inside or outside of the garment, according to design. Match the stitching lines and baste in place. Stitch tuck.

12 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT Types of Fullness

ATTACHMENTS GLOSSARY SAFETY RULES Word Meaning Safety is very important in Sewing. To make sure Basting This is a temporary stitch used in that everyone can learn and have fun in a safe the beginning stages of a sewing environment, keep the following rules in mind: project. 1. ALWAYS: Place your coats, books and bags in Bias facing Is a narrow strip of lightweight separate places, away from your sewing area. fabric cut on the bias so that it can be shaped to conform to the 2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing curve it will finish. class. You do not want to accidentally step on a pin or needle. Combination A shaped facing in which both facing the and armholes are 3. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric before finished by the same facing unit. cutting with scissors and carry scissors with the sharp edge pointing towards the floor. Collar The part of a garment that encircles the neck. When the scissors are not being used, place them on the cutting table, , or in A fold or band at the bottom of a your sewing box. sleeve. 4. ALWAYS: Measure the thread to the length of Dart A dart is a "V" shaped, stitched your arm. fold starting at a certain width at one end and tapering to a point at 5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with caution the other end. A dart creates a before starting to sewing on your fabric. curve in the fabric and allows the 6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabric fabric to conform to the shape of as you sew and place them in the pin cushion the body. The darts in a garment after you use them. NEVER put straight pins are what make the garment fit. or needles in your mouth. Extended facing Is cut as an extension of the 7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the upright garment and then folded back position after use. When using the iron hold along the edge it finishes. it by the handle only. Facing A piece of fabric that is used to 8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help you conceal the raw edge of the use the (unpicker). garment and is usually turned to the inside of the garment after 9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler, being applied. scissors and pins in the sewing box after Sleeve Is the part of a garment which using them. covers the arm, or through which 10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher’s/trainer’s the arm passes or slips. instructions. Placket The part of a shirt or where the garment fastens together. Shaped facing The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together. Stitch A link, loop or knot formed by a threaded needle in sewing.

EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 13 Types of Fullness

Acknowledgement

This short course module, developed in Papua New Guinea, is based on the competency-based training model. The Skill Training Resource Unit (STRU) of Employment Oriented Skills Development Project (EOSDP) in conjunction with Department (TVET) division and the implementing agency Department for Community Development Services wish to express their thanks to the people who have contributed in producing the module. We hope it will provide basic knowledge and skills for the informal and the formal sectors especially the women, men and the youth to be employed or self-employed through having better skills for tomorrow.

14 EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - S KILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT p o box 1097, waigani national capital district papua new guinea. tel: (675) 323 2633 fax: (675) 323 0944

The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNG EMPLOYMENT SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) and produced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)