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FREE 4GUIDES

Simple Sewing Techniques

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1 Patch by Pauline Richards 2 & Gathers by Amy Stalp 3 Hand Sewing by Marla Stefanelli 4 25 Sewing Shortcuts by Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns FREE SEWING 4GUIDES

Simple Sewing Techniques

Learning new sewing techniques improves your projects and makes sewing more enjoyable. In this free sewing guide, find out how to master simple but essential sewing skills by follow- ing easy step-by-step instructions. Create perfectly placed patch pockets for garments and accessories in “Patch Pockets.” In “Pleats and Gathers,” discover how to add dimension to your projects with crisp and even pleats and gathers. In “Hand Sewing,” learn simple ways to add a handmade touch. Finally, “25 Sewing Shortcuts” offers must-have tips to add to your sewing repertoire. These simple sewing techniques will save you time and help you add professional polish to your projects. Happy sewing!

Beth Bradley Associate Editor, Sew News

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 Patch Pockets ...... PAGE 1

2 Pleats & Gathers ...... PAGE 5

3 Hand Sewing ...... PAGE 8

4 25 Sewing Shortcuts...... PAGE 13 the

baBY PAUsLINE RiICHcARDS s patch pockets

Follow these simple tips to create perfect patch pockets. Soon, you’ll be putting patch pockets on every project ... pronto!

BEFORE YOU BEGIN, repeat the with a dry iron. Using a scanner or in half, and true the curves so the following: accuracy, accuracy, accuracy. copier, copy the onto the corners are exact mirror images. Great-looking pockets begin with paper (dull) side of the freezer paper. Use this customized, reusable pocket accurate cutting, progress with accu- Fuse the copy to a second sheet of template to help accurately press rate pressing and end with accurate freezer paper, positioning the shiny pocket allowances. Store it in sewing. side of the copy against the paper side the envelope. of the second sheet. Use a Teflon If you don’t have a scanner or copier, create a template press cloth to prevent the freezer create a template by fusing together out the pocket pattern, cutting paper from sticking to your iron or two sheets of freezer paper, or use directly on the cutting lines. board. heavy paper, such as card stock.Trace only the and stitching lines Cut an 81⁄2”x 11” rectangle from Cut away all seam allowances from from the pocket pattern onto the freezer paper. Before copying, make the freezer-paper pattern; along paper. sure the freezer paper isn’t curled—it the hemline. Fold the freezer paper could jam your printer. Place the freezer paper shiny side down on a Teflon press cloth, and lightly press tip: Use a freezer-paper template to form square-corner pockets, too.

sewNews 1 1 Finish upper pocket edge; baste lower edge.

2 along paper template; trim corners to reduce bulk.

3 Pull basting stitches to rounded edges.

make the pockets Right sides together, fold the upper pocket edge along the foldline; in Cut out the pockets using the original place.With the paper template pattern. Finish each pocket upper up, sew next to the freezer paper to edge by folding under ¼” and stitch- stitch the pocket facing.Trim the ing close to the fold. corners to remove bulk (2). Keeping Around the curved edges, baste ¼” the pocket template in position, turn from the edge to ease in the fullness. and fold the pocket facing into place. Begin sewing 1” before the curve Pull the basting stitches to ease the and continue around to the opposite 4 Edgestitch top facing; weave tails rounded lower edges (3). Press the through facing to secure. side, ending 1” after the curve (1). pocket thoroughly. Remove the On smaller pockets, stitch two rows template. Secured Thread Tails of basting stitches to help the rounded corners ease more evenly. Baste the Working from the right side, first row ¼” from the cut edge and edgestitch the facing. Don’t back- the second ⅜” to ½” from the edge. stitch; instead, leave a thread tail on each end.Thread each tail through a Position the pocket template’s shiny needle, and weave it through the side against the pocket wrong side; pocket facing to secure (4). press.The freezer paper should temporarily adhere to the pocket To prevent the pocket from shifting fabric. Refer to the pattern to guide during stitching, position ⅛”-wide placement. fusible web strips ⅛” from the folded edge, or use a wash-away glue stick

2 sewNews 5 Position fusible web strips.

Fusible Web Tape

6 Stitch pocket in place; reinforce corners.

7 1⁄4” from first row. or double-sided, wash-away basting invisibly stitched tape to stabilize the pocket (5). Reduce bulk by trimming the seam pockets allowance to, but not through, the Once you’ve learned to form a well- ease stitching. shaped pocket, you’re ready to master a clever technique that works well on Position the pocket on the garment, textured fabrics and results in a pocket and gently press. with invisible stitching. Stitch the pocket in place. Reinforce Prepare your pocket. Thread the upper corners with straight or trian- machine with matching thread; set gular stitching. Use small stitches, and the machine for a blind- stitch. sew close to the folded edge (6). Pull the thread ends to the wrong side Begin sewing at the upper-right pocket 8 Attach pocket with blind-hem stitch. and tie off. edge, positioning the needle so the straight stitching falls beside the pocket Topstitch again, ¼” from the first and the “bites” into the row, to give the pocket more defini- pocket edge (8). Continue stitching tion (7). around the sides and lower edge.

Experiment and try applying the techniques described here to create patch pockets in unique shapes.

sewNews 3 increase your learning curve Another way to form perfect pocket corners is to use a Pocket Curve Template. 7 The template has four different corner curves (1 cm, 1.5 cm, 2 cm and 3 cm) and a clip section to hold the pocket in place. 7 To use the template, match your pocket pattern to one of the template’s curves (A). 7 Baste around the pocket curves. Pull up the basting stitches, slide the template into place and secure with the clip (B). Press.

AB

sources Pocket Curve Template provided by Nancy’s , Dept. SN, Box 683, Beaver Dam, WI 53916-0683, (800) 833-0690, www.nancysnotions.com. Z

4 sewNews the basics BY AMY STALP pleats & gathers

Add some dimension to your projects with these easy techniques.

PLEATS AND GATHERS ARE VERY VERSATILE.You’ll find them in garments, such as and pants, as well as home-dec projects, such as drapes and tablecloths. In just a few easy steps, these techniques can transform an otherwise flat piece of fabric into one with shape, move- ment and grace. Depending on the desired effect, you can create a crisp look with pleats or a softer fullness with gathers. Pleats Pleats are pressed or topstitched folds in the fabric that control fullness. On garments, you’ll find pleats on the fronts of pants, all the way around a , and on a shirt . In home-dec projects, pleats are used for drapes, bed skirts, tablecloths and more. Pleats There are two basic types of pleats: fabric folds created by doubling the fabric over on itself and folds with an underlay or separate fabric piece stitched to the extensions on the 1 Knife Pleats 2 Box Pleat garment underside.There are four well-known pleat variations that are used singly, in groups or around an entire garment. Knife, or Side, Pleats—have all the folds turned to one side (1). Box Pleats—have two folds that face away from each other and underfolds that meet at the center (2).

sewnews 5 tip: When marking pleats, use one color to mark foldlines and a second color to mark placement lines. 3 Inverted Pleat

Inverted Pleats—have two folds Baste each pleat in place through all turned toward each other that thicknesses, stitching close to the fold- meet (3). line (6). Baste pleats in place along Accordion Pleats—have folds resem- the upper edge. bling the bellows of an accordion (4). With the fabric right side up, press Make pleats from the fabric right or each pleat, using a press cloth. wrong side, depending on how the Turn over the fabric and press the project was designed and the method pleats again, using a press cloth. that works better for you.When If pressing creates ridges on the 4 Accordian Pleats making pleats from the right side, fabric, insert a strip of brown paper transfer the pattern markings to the under each fold; press again (7). right side.When making pleats on the wrong side, transfer markings to the wrong side. From the Wrong Side Pleats can be pressed or unpressed, depending on the desired effect. For Mark the foldline and placement line soft pleats, press lightly, if at all. For for each pleat on the fabric wrong sharp, crisp pleats, use steam and a side. press cloth to set the creases. For knife and box pleats, fold the In general, all pleats are created the fabric right sides together along the same, no matter what the type.Your foldline, and meet it to the placement project may use a different type of line; baste. Press or turn the pleats in pleat than the ones shown here, but the direction indicated for your type 5 Meet foldlines to placement lines; pin. once you learn the basic techniques, of pleat (8). you can easily make any type of pleat. For inverted pleats, bring together and P F match each set of foldlines; baste. l o a l c d e

l From the Right Side Spread open the underfold of each i m n e e

n pleat and align the placement line to

t Mark the foldline and placement line L i n for each pleat on the fabric right side. the matched foldlines (9). Pin, then e baste in place through all thicknesses. Fold the fabric along the foldline, and bring the edge to the placement line; Baste the pleats in place along the pin (5). upper edge.

6 Baste pleats close to foldline. 7 Insert paper strips; press. 8 Meet foldlines to placement lines; baste. P F o l a l d c e l i n m e e n t L i n e

6 sewnews window treatments. To yards of fabric, as in Gathering allows you to gathering an edge for a dust , fit a long piece of fabric use this method, which eliminates (such as a skirt) onto a the possibility of the basting thread shorter piece of fabric (such breaking: as a waistband).The result is From the fabric wrong side, place a soft, evenly spaced folds that length of lightweight string or narrow add shape to the project. cord just inside the seamline of the Use a different gathering edge to be gathered. Gathers method depending on the amount of fabric to be Stitching within the gathered. and being careful not to catch the With the fabric wrong side up, press all string in the stitching, zigzag over the the pleats in the direction in which To gather a small area: string (11). they’ll be worn. For knife pleats, turn Working from the right side, machine Pull the string to gather the edge and all the back folds in one direction; for stitch two rows of basting, ¾” and secure the string using the figure- box pleats, the pairs of back folds ½” from the edge, using approxi- eight method. should be facing each other; and for mately six stitches per inch. Leave Stitch the gathers in place on either inverted pleats, the back folds are long thread tails at each end. spread open. side of the zigzag stitching. Remove Gather the edge to the desired length the string to eliminate bulk (the Turn the fabric right side up. Double- by pulling the threads with zigzag stitching won’t show and check that all pleats are facing the one hand while evenly distributing doesn’t need to be removed). correct direction; press. the fullness with the other hand. To remove ridges created by pressing, Secure the basting threads at each end resources turn the fabric wrong side up. Insert by wrapping the thread ends in a strips of brown paper under the folds figure eight around a pin placed The New Complete Guide to Sewing: and press again (see figure 7). Step-by-Step Techniques for Making perpendicular to the seamline (10). Clothes and Home Accessories; Gathering To secure the gathers, stitch ⅝” from Reader’s Digest, 2003. the edge, in between the gathering Sewing for Dummies by Jan Saunders Gathering is often seen on garments stitching rows, keeping the gathers Maresh; Wiley Publishing Inc., 2004. at the , cuffs, or as smooth and even. Stitch again ¼” Vogue Sewing; The Butterick Publishing ruffles. It’s also used in home-dec inside this line of stitching. Remove Company, 1985. Z projects, such as bed skirts and the basting thread.

9 Baste and spread open pleats. P Wrap threads around in a figure 8. Q Zigzag over string just inside seamline.

5 ⁄8"

Seamline.

Baste. Spread open.

sewnews 7 the

basiMARLcA STEFsANELLI simple hand sewing Hand-sewing techniques add a nice touch when finishing projects.

BEFORE THE was invented all sewing was done by hand. Many hand-sewn techniques have been replaced by machine methods, thus speeding up the sewing process. But there are still a few instances when hand sewing is easier and yields more professional results. Use hand sewing to baste; seam; hem; attach , snaps, and hooks and eyes; stitch openings closed; secure layers together; and tie off long thread tails left from machine stitching and topstitching.

sewnews 8 A Simple Knot

Anatomy Wrap Roll down finger, Pull thread of a Knot thread. toward palm. taut. Knots are used to secure the thread at the beginning and end of stitching. B Wrap thread end around needle. Backstitching can be substituted for Pull needle and thread through wrapped thread. a knot and is very secure. Beginning knots are made after threading the needle. To make one simple knot, moisten the index finger, then wrap the thread end around the finger so the threads overlap, roll the threads off the finger with the thumb, and pull the thread tight (A). You don’t need a large knot, just one big enough to stop the thread from passing C Pull knot between the layers. E Insert needle in same hole as thread through the fabric. to pull knot between layers. To create another simple knot, wrap the thread end around the needle several times, and hold the wrapped thread in place with one hand as you pull the needle and 1” remaining thread through the wrapped thread with the other hand (B). This produces a nice clean knot that you “pop” through the fabric so it D Creat end knot close to fabric surface. F Ending Knot lies between the layers. This hiding- the-knot technique is often used when quilting. To sew, insert the Take a small ; needle between the fabric layers leave a loop. about 1” from the desired starting point and come up at the starting point. Slightly tug on the thread to pop the knot below the surface (C). Take one backstitch and begin sewing. To create an end knot, form a thread loop close to the fabric surface, bring the needle through the loop, and hold the thread close Thread needle through first loop and back to the surface as you pull and tighten through second loop. the knot (D). If desired, pop the knot Pull thread taut. between the layers by reinserting the needle in the same place the thread exited the fabric, come out about 1”

9 sewnews 1 Pull thread in same direction as stitching.

The Fundamentals Hand-sewn seams and finishes are Pulling thread in opposite direction causes secure and unlikely to come out threads to fray. during regular wear. Use sharp, between or needles for hand sewing. Sharp needles away, and tug the thread to pop are longer than between needles, and the knot below the surface (E). both have small round eyes.The eye Another end-knot method is to of an embroidery needle is longer, take a tiny backstitch, leaving a which makes it easier to thread. Ball- finishing , use thread that small loop. Pass the needle point needles are available for sewing matches the upper layer so the through the loop, pulling the knit fabrics. Generally, use a needle stitching will be less conspicuous. thread so another small loop that slips through the fabric easily and aid sewing, especially when remains. Pass the needle accommodates the thread without working with thick or hard-surfaced through the second loop and forcing it through the eye. fabrics.Wear a on the middle pull the thread tight (F). As you sew, strive for uniform stitches finger of your sewing hand. It may with a neat appearance. the seem awkward at first, but will To backstitch at the beginning knots except when basting. become second nature with use. of a seam, pull the thread Cut threads rather than biting or There are several types of thimbles, through the fabric, leaving a from thimbles that protect the short thread tail exposed. Take breaking them for a clean end, which is easier to pass through the needle eye. finger, to bands that leave the finger- two small close to tip exposed. Choose a thimble that’s the thread tail; start sewing. At For most stitching, use a thread about snug on your fingertip and has the end of the seam, take two or 18” long. Longer threads are more sufficient indentations to catch and three backstitches and clip the likely to tangle and slow you down. hold the needle. thread. The entire thread length is drawn through the fabric with each stitch, Use a single thread strand for most Unwanted knots happen when and by the time you reach the end, sewing. Cut the thread, thread the the thread becomes tangled longer threads will be weakened and needle, and knot one end. while stitching. If this happens, frayed.When basting with long stitches, Use a double strand when more don’t tug on the needle. This will it’s acceptable to use longer threads. security is required for stressed or only tighten the knot, making it Determine which thread end to knot. heavy-wear areas—cut the thread more difficult to remove. Many Cut a length of thread from the spool twice as long, thread the needle, and times the knot consists of a small and with one hand lightly run your knot both ends together. loop and can be removed by thumb and index finger down the When sewing a long seam the thread gently pulling the thread on one thread. Using the same fingers, run can become twisted, causing excess side of the knot. If the knot them down the thread in the opposite tangles.To release the twists, let go of doesn’t come out, try gently direction. One direction will be the needle and let it hang free, letting pulling the other thread. If it still smoother than the other.Tie the knot the thread unwind. won’t come out, try inserting the at the end of the smoothest direction. When attaching buttons, use a quadru- needle into the dense part of the This is also the end that comes off pled thread to speed up the process. knot to loosen the tangle. the spool before the thread is cut. Cut the thread four times as long, When you knot this end, there’s less If you can’t undo a knot, cut double the length, and thread two friction when the thread is pulled the thread to remove the knot. ends at once through the needle. through the fabric, making it less Pull out enough stitches until Knot all the ends together. likely to tangle or fray. the thread is long enough to For a neat finish, rather than machine thread onto a needle to tie a Pull the thread through the fabric in backstitching, leave long thread tails, knot or take a few backstitches. the same direction as the stitching to thread them on a needle, pull the Rethread the needle and reduce thread friction and wear (1). thread to the wrong side, and tie continue stitching, overlapping When stitching one fabric layer to off by taking a couple backstitches the previous three or four stitches. another, such as for appliqué and to secure.

sewnews 10 Appliqué or blindstitch: Secure layers together with this almost Basic Stitches invisible stitch. Just a few stitches are presented here. As your sewing knowledge grows, you’ll learn more stitch variations and discover which ones yield the best results.

Basting: Use long stitches to temporarily hold layers together. Hand basting is much easier to remove than machine basting.

Tacking: Use to secure facings to seam allowances so the facings don’t flip out to the garment right side. Also use to secure in place.

Running Stitch: Similar to basting, but the stitches are shorter and closer together. Use to seam two fabrics together, and for easing and gathering a seamline.

Ladder stitch: Use to join two folded edges, as when closing an opening on a pillow. This stitch is almost invisible when complete.

Whipstitch: Use to close openings Backstitch: A very secure stitch that when it doesn’t matter if the stitching looks like machine stitching on the is visible. Also use to attach lace to right side. Two or three backstitches on an edge. top of each other can act as a knot.

Slipstitch: Use to hem, close openings and to attach linings.

11 sewnews Buttons: Use a doubled or quadrupled thread and Hooks and eyes: Attach as create a thread as shown. shown with a doubled or quadrupled thread. A thread chain can replace the eye portion.

Hide the knot beneath the and strive for a neat appearance on Edges abut. Edges overlap. the wrong side.

Thread chain: Use to attach to a garment at the hem. A thread chain can replace the eye portion of a hook-and-eye assembly.

Stitch over a toothpick.

Sewing On the Go Hand sewing is very portable—save the hand- sewing portion of garment construction for when Pull button up and wrap you’re sitting in front of the TV or when you’re on thread on underside to the go. form shank; tie off. A pencil bag works well as a carryall and leftover mint tins can corral small items, such as needles, pins and thimbles. If you need to carry a variety of threads or trims, put them in a small, reclosable plastic bag. Include the following items for no-fuss travel sewing: 7 Three to four needles in various sizes 7 Pins Snaps: Sew on one-half of 7 Thimble the snap. Align the other half by inserting a pin through 7 Hem gauge both center holes. Use a 7 doubled thread for small Small snaps and a quadrupled 7 Pen, pencil, eraser thread for large snaps. 7 Small 7 Spool of thread 7 Lotion Z

sewnews 12 R E B A T L I N E G C L

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L 2L Turn under allowances on one piece, Y E 5S A R overlap allowances of other piece and SEWING edgestitch. SHORTCUTS

Time is precious, so save yours by trying

25shortcuts used in the sewing industry.... Cuff

Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns shares a dozen of her favorite construction tips and tech- 4. Discover commercial niques. And to help celebrate Sew News’ 25th edgestitching. This technique is anniversary, she is offering our readers one FREE used on many ready-to-wear garments. Silhouette pattern of their choice, see page 50. The edgestitching looks the same as top- stitching, but it also holds the garment together—if the stitching is removed, the garment will come apart.You can tell if 1. Make a list of your clothes. Include what the garment was constructed this way by you like about them, and also measure the bust sliding your thumbnail under the fabric circumference of your favorite and . edge. Use this timesaving technique Measure and note the armhole size, sleeve circumfer- when constructing collars, cuffs and ence, shoulder width, hem width and circumference, . Press under the seam allow- and anything else you can think of. If you know ances of one piece, then lap them over what you like, you can duplicate it. the raw edges of the adjoining piece, and edgestitch close to the fold to secure. 2. Lengthen your stitch. Most electronic machines default to a 2.5 mm stitch length, which is shorter than necessary for garment sewing. A seam should pull apart by having the thread break, before 5. Cut more than one. Changing seasons inspire the fabric tears. To test, start with a 3 mm stitch us to sew. Instead of cutting out one new pair of (nine stitches per inch) and sew the fabric. Try tear- pants, or one new , cut out two at the same ing the seam apart to see what works best; lengthen time. If the thread color permits, sew both garments the stitch if necessary. Mistakes will be much easier to at the same time.You’ll get two new blouses in about rip out when using a longer stitch. the same time it took to sew one.

3. Learn about fusible . 6. No shifting allowed. Practice taut sewing has changed tremendously in the past with one hand holding the fabric in front of the 20 years. Fusible interfacings are common in ready-to- needle and the other hand holding the fabric behind wear garments, but they are used more as underlinings the needle, so the fabric layers stay even. It shouldn’t than interfacings. Three reasons to underline with matter which direction you sew because the fabric interfacing include: to stabilize loosely woven fabric, shouldn’t shift at all. A differential-feed feature or to add body to a lightweight fabric and to retard makes it easier to keep fabric layers wrinkling. Interfacing is also used to prevent show- even. Disengage the differential feed when you need through when sewing with sheer fabric. So if you the to pull more on the lower layer to ease fuse, fuse the whole garment, not just specific areas. in extra fullness, such as when setting in .

13 sewNews 12. Perfect sleeves. Make a sleeve head 7. Cut and sew with 3⁄8” seams. Sewing from tie interfacing when setting sleeves into a with ⅝” seams makes sewing more difficult, with shoulder pads. The tie interfacing especially when stitching sleeves into armholes, eases the sleeve and then becomes the sleeve collars to , or anytime concave and head. Nothing else is needed except the shoulder convex seams come together. Also when you use pad. Use ⅜”seams—⅝”seams won’t work with ⅝” seams, you’re cutting the garment twice—once this method. when you cut out the pattern and again as you Cut a 1”x15” bias strip from the interfacing. trim each seam. (Be sure to adjust the pattern for On the sleeve cap wrong side, baste the tie fit before cutting from fabric.) interfacing in place on the stitching line between the notches.When basting, pull the interfacing 8. Use more steam. Consider purchasing an taut—but not the sleeve fabric. Stitch again from iron with a steam generator. On conventional irons, notch to notch.When done, the bias interfacing the soleplate creates the heat to produce the steam, will relax and ease the sleeve.When setting the so, at lower temperatures, steam production is sleeve into the jacket, remember to put the inadequate to do a thorough pressing job. sleeve down against the feed dogs, and let the machine ease in the cap fullness. 9. Sew darts from the point. Try this even if it’s contrary to what you’ve been taught. The tip is what everyone sees, so it must be sewn correctly. If you’re a perfect dart sewer, don’t Pull interfacing taut as baste to sleeve cap between notches. change, but if you need some help, try this easy technique: Take one stitch off the fabric at the dart tip; this will knot the thread. Sew the dart, ending Sleeve Cap at the wide end, which will be anchored in the seam. The thread tails don’t need to be tied, but tie them if you must—it just takes more time.

10. Add sleeves first. When making blouses, sew or serge the sleeves in before stitching the side seams. To stitch the sleeve, use a ⅜” seam allowance, and place the blouse on top with the sleeve underneath. (Guidesheets tell you the opposite. This is probably because it’s easier to illustrate how the layers go together in the instruc- tions.) The feed dogs will ease in the extra sleeve fabric (turn off the differential-feed feature if applicable). This method may seem odd at first, but you’ll adjust. Be sure to cut the garment with ⅜” seam allow- ances. If you cut ⅝” seam allowances and sew with ⅜” seams, your garment will grow ½” at each seam. Read on to discover more 11. Think outside the box. Attend conferences trade secrets from the and expos in your area to obtain new information and techniques to try when sewing. Think. Sewing sewing industry ... is a logical procedure. If a technique doesn’t make sense to you, don’t use it. If your method works every time, don’t change it. Trust yourself!

sewNews 14 C Fold over waistband, and stitch close to elastic. 13. Timesaving elastic waist- 15. Smoother waistband edge. When band. Add elastic to constructing waistbands, use the previous hem- an attached, fold-over interfacing technique. Cut interfacing equal to the waistband as the casing waistband circumference by half the waistband is sewn. Finish the cas- depth plus ½”. Apply the interfacing to the wrong ing raw edge, and then side of the waistband front so the extra ½” overlaps fold the casing under the foldline.When folded, the interfacing supports along the foldline; press the edge and gives it a smoother, rounded finish. the fold.Wrap ¾”-wide elastic comfortably 16. Cutting difficult fabrics. When working around your waist. Add with , , knits, tricots, or any fabric that ½” to the determined moves easily, layer it with paper. Lay out examining- elastic length and cut. Overlap the elastic ends ½” room or on a flat surface. Spread the and stitch together, forming a ring. Place the elastic fabric over the paper, making sure the is on the garment wrong side, and fold the casing over square. Pin the pattern in place, pinning through the elastic with a scant ⅜”of fabric extending past all layers. The lower paper layer supports the fabric the elastic. Using a foot with the needle in and adds stability to minimize shifting. the right position, stitch close to the elastic through both fabric layers—don’t sew through the elastic. Stitch until the fabric becomes too gathered to 17. Stack cutting. Use this method to cut several continue, lift the , pull the elastic toward garments at once.With good, sharp scissors or a you, smooth the fabric, and continue sewing around rotary cutter you can easily cut up to four garments the waistband. Adjust the fabric evenly around the at a time. Fold the fabrics in half lengthwise, and waistband, and the casing to the elastic at the stack them with the widest fabric on the bottom side seams to minimize shifting. and with the folds exactly aligned. (To cut more garments, lay out the fabrics in single layers— not folded.)

14. A better hem. Garments made from lightweight fabrics benefit from an interfaced hem, which adds 18. Easing fabric. Ease seams by “crowding” weight and reduces wrinkling. Cut fusible interfacing the fabric. Place the fabric under the presser foot, ¼” wider than the hem allowance and a little longer and insert the needle just inside the seam allowance. than the hem circumference. Trim one long edge Place the index finger of your left hand right behind with , and trim the interfacing short the presser foot. Sew slowly, crowding the fabric ends on the diagonal, so the join will be less obvi- behind the presser foot by holding the fabric with ous. Align the long, straight edge of the interfacing your finger and not allowing it to advance. Sew a with the hem raw edge and press. Finish the hem few inches; release the fabric and start again until the raw edge as you desire. Turn up and pin the hem in section is totally sewn. If the fabric is eased too place. Hand sew to secure; press. much, snip a few threads along the stitching line.

Fuse interfacing to hem allowance, overlapping Crowd fabric the hemline. behind presser foot to ease fabric.

Hemline

15 sewNews 19. Stitch a mock, flat-fell armseye seam. 21. Fast-and-easy, shirt-front . Set the sleeve onto the garment before sewing the From pattern tracing cloth, cut a strip 3⅝” wide side seam. Serge-finish the seam so the resulting seam by the length of the front pattern. Tape one long allowance is ⅜” to ½” wide. Press the seam away edge of the strip along the center-front line of the from the sleeve. Clip the seam allowances along the front pattern; cut the garment fronts using the armseye lower curve, so they lie flat against the body. adjusted pattern. With the garment right side up, topstitch a needle Working on the right front at the neck and lower width from the seamline catching the seam allow- raw edge, make three small clips 1¼” apart starting ances. Topstitch again ¼” from the first stitching. from the front edge. Fold the front edge to the wrong side aligning the folds with the first set of clip marks; press. Continue folding under the fab- ric, aligning the second and third set of clips; press. Topstitch ¼” from the outer folded edge. Fold out the placket, and topstitch ¼” from the new outer 20. Pinless sewing for long, straight edge to finish. seams. Align the fabric edges, and put the start- Trim ½” from the left-front edge. At the neck ing edge just past the needle and lower the presser and lower edge, make two small clips 1¼” apart, foot. Backstitch to the starting point. Align the seam starting from the front edge. Turn under the front ends between the thumb and fingers of your right edge two times, aligning the folds with the clip hand, keeping the fabric flat and taut. Grasp the marks; press each fold. Topstitch ¼” from the edge. layers together with the left hand at the seam’s mid- The buttons will keep the resulting facing in place. point. Transfer the fabric to your right hand without letting go of the end. From the seam midpoint to Make clip-marks at neck the presser foot, pinch the layers together at 6” to and lower edge.

8” intervals, again transferring the fabric to your 11⁄4” right hand, so you have several pleats in your right hand. Use your left hand to guide the seam through Topstitch last the machine.When you reach the first pleat, release folded edge. the fabric and continue to sew.When you reach the midpoint, match the ends again and re-pleat the Right remaining fabric to continue sewing. Front

Hold pleated fabric in right hand, and guide with left hand as you sew.

11⁄4”

1⁄4”

Fold out placket and topstitch edge.

1⁄4”

sewNews 16 22. Stitching angled edges to straight edges. Use this method when adding inserts to a skirt. Staystitch the corner with short, straight stitches. Clip to the corner staystitching. With right sides facing and with the corner on top, match the pattern marks, and stitch to the corner. Stop with the needle down. Pivot the upper layer so the remaining cut edges of both layers align. Finish sewing the seam.

Stitch, Clip stopping at corner.

Partially stitch seam. Turn so wrong sides are facing, finish sewing seam.

Pivot upper layer to align remaining edge, continue stitching from corner. 25. Reversing seams. Reverse the sleeve seam when adding a turn-back cuff to prevent the seam raw edges from showing. Stitch the seam up to a point that will be under the cuff; backstitch. Clip the seam allowance at a right angle to the raw edge, up to 23. Drapery French seam. As the name the end of the seamline. Reverse the unstitched section, implies, this seam was originally used to finish drapery so the wrong sides are facing, and sew the remainder seams. It’s softer than a French seam and is a good seam of the seam. Press the reversed seam allowance and finish for sheer fabrics.With wrong sides together, stitch a trim to ¼”. Hem the garment and turn the cuff to ¼” seam. Refold the seam so right sides are together and the right side. Z one fabric layer wraps around the seam allowance. The first stitching line should be ¼” from the folded edge. Stitch again in the well of the previous seam. resources Tips 13 to 16 are from Sewing Secrets From the Fashion Industry, edited by Susan Huxley; Rodale Press, 1996. This book Stitch with wrong sides is currently out of print. Visit www.rodalestore.com. facing, turn so right sides Tips 17 to 19 are from Islander Sewing Systems by Janet Pray; face each other, and Janet & Company Inc., 2004. To order call (248) 889-5091 or visit stitch in well of previous seam. www.islandersewing.com. How-to DVDs and patterns are also available. Tips 20 and 21 are from Sewing Express by Nancy Zieman; Oxmoor House Inc., 1994. To order call Nancy’s Notions, (800) 833-0690 or visit www.nancysnotions.com. 24. Gather fabric with ease. Zigzag over Tips 22 to 25 are from The Complete Book of Sewing Short Cuts cord or fishing line without catching the by Claire B. Shaeffer; Sterling Publishing Co., 1981. Available at cord in the stitching. Pull the cord to gather fabric stores and bookstores nationwide; call (800) 367-9692 or visit www.sterlingbooks.com for the nearest retailer. the fullness.

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