J. fash. bus. Vol. 18, No. 3:134-147, Jul. 2014 ISSN 1229-3350(Print) http://dx.doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2014.18.3.134 ISSN 2288-1867(Online)

A Study on Change of Pleats Shape and Fabric Properties: Interactive Shape-folding E-textile with Arduino

Lee Euna ∙ Kim Jongjun+ Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University

Abstract

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person’s individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

Key words : Arduino, recovery rate, Shape-folding, stiffness, tensile properties

I. Introduction especially wearable electronics, have become a dominant trend in future textile development, and Thanks to today’s rapid exchange of a growing number of designers and researchers information and the development of technology have been delving into electric textiles (Buechley and materials, the boundary of each area has & Eisenberg, 2009). There has been some become unclear and mutually influential (Choi, discussion on how these materials could be Kim, & Song, 2012; Kim & Kim, 2013; Ko & used to create foldable items of clothing Kim, 2013; Lee & Kim, 2011). Smart textiles, (Perovich, Mothersill, & Farah, 2014; Seymour,

Corresponding author: Kim Jongjun, Tel. +82-2-3277-3102, Fax. +82-2-3277-3079 E-mail: [email protected]

This research was presented at the 2013 Fall Conference of The Korean Society of Fashion Business.

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2009). But there has been little discussion on technique. Thus, this study selects the fabrics how the subsequent interactions might influence that have relatively stiff characteristics of user performance and preference. Interaction is, materials similar to paper. by necessity, a field with interdisciplinary The pleats finishing process employs either a concerns, since its essence is interaction that special chemical treatment or heat-setting includes people, machines, computers, and a method commonly used in the fashion industry. diverse array of objects and behaviors (Hallnäs The fabric becomes soft when the heat is & Redström, 2006). applied to it and then eventually becomes The kinds of materials people are willing to hardened and fixed after the heat cools down. wear is important to the interactive design. This method is used to create a thermoplastic Having this in mind, the design should focus on object. Polyester has such qualities which makes identifying users’ needs as well as designing it a great thermoplastic (Kim & Choi, 2007). In usable, useful, and enjoyable. For example, addition, it has unique resilience, providing good creating an interactive tight skirt that could pleats retention and crease recovery. On the change to fit comfortably when it inhibits the contrary, ramie and silk can be treated with ability to walk properly. Folding technique as an chemical modification, post-processing, as well art form deformation is folded without stretching, as change of crosslink in order to achieve tearing, or cutting and could be built from a dimensional stability or to alter surface 3-D structure or a 2-D structure. Various folding properties. This is due to their low wrinkle techniques can be found in many fields, such recovery. Also, ramie has adequate stiffness and as industrial design, architecture, interior design, coolness properties (Kang & Kwon, 2010). textile industry, and fashion (McCarty & Therefore, the selected fabric samples in this McQuaid, 1998). Furthermore, a range folding study were based on their characteristics of techniques has been extended to e-textile due stiffness, including fusible interlining, organdy, to its useful characteristics (Singh et al., 2012). silk, and ramie. The aim of this study is to interact with its Apart from the properties of the fabric, the wearers, to create a dress with adjustable length physical factors such as weight and thickness, that is both aesthetic and functional as part of also influenced the fold. When folding our vision of future design for transformable lightweight fabric versus a more heavier fabric, clothing. In that sense, the experiment in this its crease would look different. The thick fabrics study is to produce the prototype of the are, by their nature, less susceptible to creasing e-textile by investigating the various folding than thin fabrics even when the angle of the patterns. The experiment also allows observers fold is the same (Hu, 2004). That is, thick and to examine the basic characteristics and physical heavy fabric will create fewer creases and properties of the fabric and the behavior recover easier. However, it must not be changes during fold deformation and the overlooked that these results would be changed recovery process as well as to identify the when steam-pressing is introduced. Thus, correlations between stiffness and recovery rate. polyester organza (a relatively thin and light In general, material that is flat and stiff similar weight type) and fusible interlining that is made to paper is usually more effective in the folding of polyester-cotton blend (a thick and heavy

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weight type) was added to the fabric sample in from static dynamic fashion to dynamic interactive order to obtain various types of fabric samples fashion. with different weight and thickness in this study. As a result, this study selected four types of fabric samples depending on properties and II. Review of the Previous Works weight after investigation. This study selected properly designed fold 1. Pleats technique pattern to build the prototype of the length-changing dress. The folding patterns have Numerous studies have been published treating two types: (1) "Basic Pattern", which is the most various aspects of the recovery of fabrics from basic structure of folding, and (2) "Diamond imposed stiffness (Prevorsek, Butler, & Lamb, Pattern", which considers the human body curve 1975). These studies utilized the constituent yarns and dress shape such as an arch. Therefore, four and single filaments to identify the responses of types of different fabrics with two sets of folds the fabrics. However, this study method is not applied to each fabric allows for a total of eight about the fundamental fabric or fiber mechanics fabric samples in this experiment. This process but about the testing of folding. Regarding the analyzes the dimensions, stress-strain deformation studies of pleats testing, there are studies that behavior, and recovery factors according to the looked into embedding and sectioning techniques various properties of fabrics when folding and developed to examine deformations of fabrics and unfolding processes occur. These results would illustrated their application, the examination of the establish a baseline by which this prototype will effects of pleats, treatment and washing be developed. procedures (Holdaway, 1960; Katz, 1966). However, The prototype for adjustable-length dress has that has been studied in wool fabric. On the other the fabric-folding process starts at the front of hand, the silk is studied for pleating focusing on the dress. Usually the dress remains long, but it aesthetic and permanent pleats (Kearney, 1992; is designed to be shorten the length of the Sparks, 2004). Polyester reveals unique resilience dress when the wearer’s surrounding becomes which gives excellent pleats retention and wrinkle dark, as a motor spins the pulley. This can be recovery. On the contrary ramie and silk can be all controlled with the use of an illumination treated with chemical modification, post-processing sensor, the pulley, and Arduino controller. as well as change of crosslink in order to alter This study uses the term "Shape-folding" dress surface properties or obtain dimensional stability. as this research conceptualizes the relation of This is due to low wrinkle recovery. Also ramie folding technique and e-textile. This has adequate stiffness and coolness properties "Shape-folding" is a new type of fabric that will (Kim & Csiszár, 2005). show the process of creating an interactive wearable computer combining the folding 2. Folding Technique in Fashion technique and electronic technology. This study will act as a bridge between art aesthetics, A folding technique is an art culture with over a fashionable technologies, and informative material thousand years of history. It has never been out properties, and the effort will be a small first step of season as there are lots of enthusiasts who

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are willing to contribute their time and effort for the folding technique’s structural characteristics. making new design with folding technique Figure 2 shows his Transformer Dress. The concepts. The various techniques used in the art dress begins to twitch, and reconfigure. The of paper folding could be built from a 3-D long Victorian dress hemline contracts into a structure or a 2-D structure. The properties of flapper style dress. final folding technique structures depends on the Figure 3 shows the Vilkas, a dress with a material and the fabrics used. Therefore, to kinetic hemline that rises on the right side at an achieve the desired functionality of final folding interval of 30 seconds to reveal the knee and lower technique structure, a careful utilization of thigh. It is constructed of two contrasting elements: folding pattern properties as well as the creation a heavy hand-made felt and light yellow cotton. process is needed. The initial stages of research The hand-stitched Nitinol wires were used here on the folding technique in fashion has been as well. Once heated, the Nitinol easily pulls the about the application of the art (McCarty & cloth together, creating a wrinkling effect. This McQuaid, 1998). Issey Miyake is a leading movement is slowly countered by gravity and the fashion designer attempting to use pleats folding weight of the felt (Seymour, 2009). with different materials concerning formativeness Recently, MIT Media Lab developed a skirt and functionality (Figure 1). called Awakened Apparel with fully embedded, pneumatically folding, shape-changing elements 3. Dress with Shape-folding which is an early example of transformable fashion (Perovich et al., 2014). The skirt embeds Hussein Chalayan is a high-end clothing soft actuators folding technique, incorporated with transformer designer. He uses embedded heat-fused laminated Mylar channels. Pneumatic technology to enhance the aesthetics of clothing actuation operates through a foot-pump and and to challenge the idea of clothing as a static depends on manual intervention by the user artifact. He performed a simple application of (Figure 4).

Figure 1. Figure 2. Figure 3. Figure 4. Jumping Dress Transformer Dress The Rising Hem Line Awakened Apparel -Issey Miyake, 1994 - Hussein Chalayan, Vilkas Dress – MIT Media Lab, 2014 F/W 2007 F/W – XS Lab, 2005

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Ⅲ. Method and Procedure 2) Diamond Pattern Specimen

The basis of this pattern is its diagonal lines 1. Selection Process of Fold Patterns fold as diamond shape. Within a "Diamond Pattern" all parallel diagonal lines are folded as In this study, a "Basic Pattern" was selected valley folds, and the edges are folded as to investigate the characteristics of fold. In mountain folds to create an arch shape general, "Basic Pattern" pleats uses vertical (Jackson, 2011). The result is a hexagonal direction to crease which is done according to pattern formed by symmetrical trapezoids. The the design of clothing. However, here we configuration fold was created as shown in designed it parallel to the weft and crease line Figure 5. to make it easier to use since the ultimate goal is to build the prototype of shape changing fold 2. Fold Specimen Forming Process through the contraction of the fold. All things considered, the "Diamond Pattern’s" arch shape, In order to use a Tensile Tester (Universal which wraps around human body, was selected Tensile Tester, Model Micro 350, Testometric Co. for the second type of fold pattern. Ltd., U.K.), selected size of the pleats pattern specimen for fold form was adjusted to 23 ㎝ X 1) Basic Pattern Specimen 34 ㎝ and that of "Diamond Pattern" specimen was 30 ㎝ X 34 ㎝. The fabric sample was This is called the "Accordion" or "Pleated inserted between two sets of graph paper, and Pattern". It is designed with three-dimensional then heat-steamed and pressed for 20 minutes folding structure involving parallel folds and (Figure 6). reverse folds (Jackson, 2011). Shown in Figure

5, the fold sample has repeated mountains and valleys of 2 ㎝ in height with equally spaced folds.

Figure 5. Type of the Fold Specimens

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3. Test of the Stiffness mechanisms (e.g., motor, reduction gear) with a range of tensile stress standards on each The stiffness was tested with cantilever testing folding specimen. The recovery rate of the according to Standard KSL ISO4604: 2013. folding specimens can be examined more Sample sizes of 2.5 ㎝ X 15 ㎝ were prepared objectively as the tensile properties tests were by cutting the fabric into strips along the warp, repeated twice. It revealed similar results in its weft, and bias direction. The stiffness o f range of the folding recovery as in the real samples, including inner and outer surface, was garments. measured three times. 1) Tensile Properties of the Fabric Samples The stiffness was calculated with the following formula: Drape Stiffness, C, is half of L (1). The sample size of 5 ㎝ X 25 ㎝, was used to  made up the direction of warp, weft and bias. C(㎝) = (1)  In the tensile test, the fabric sample was C: Drape Stiffness (㎝) stretched along the direction of the weft. Pulling L: The length of the plushed specimen (㎝) the fabric conformed to the standard. The cross-head speed was 0.5 ㎜ /sec. The length Flex Stiffness can be calculated as (2). started from 200.0 ㎜ height, and load was 2% Sf (gf · ㎝) = C³ x W (2) gf/㎝ in the elongation. Sf: Flex Stiffness (gf·㎝) W: Weight per unit area (gf/㎠) 2) Tensile Properties of the Folding Specimens

The specimen size of 23 ㎝ × 34 ㎝, was 4. Test of the Tensile Properties only tested in the warp due to the grain line. "Basic Pleats" pattern specimen of 8㎝ could be Part of this process is to ensure adequate pulled and stretched to 15㎝ more which brings fold recovery and to measure force when the the length to a total of 23㎝. On the other hand, specimen of the fabric fold is put in tensile the "Diamond Pattern" specimen started out at tester. In addition, this process tried to measure 10 ㎝ height, which was affixed to two pairs of the force required by dynamic formation

Figure 6. Tensile Properties of the Folding Specimens

139 Journal of Fashion Business Vol.18, No.3 auxiliary plates that were 1㎝ in height in order Ⅳ. Results and Discussion to set the fixed-arch shape. It was stretched to an additional 10 ㎝, which 1. Characteristics of the Fabric Samples extended to a total of 20 ㎝. The Load was 2% gf/㎝ in elongation. The tensile extension-recovery Fabric sample FO was designed to have two cycle was repeated twice in a tensile tester different types of seamlessly blending into one. (Figure 6). One was a fusible interlining which was mixed with 50% a sample OD. It is the thickest and 5. Prototype heaviest fabric sample. Fabric sample OD, 100% organdy, was the thinnest and most lightweight. In this study, there was an attempt to create a Fabric sample NB, 100% raw silk, without more efficient “Shape-folding Dress” through removing the sericin, had a relatively medium folded fabrics and embedded system. Moreover, thickness and weight. Lastly, fabric sample RM, it described some of the techniques used to 100% ramie, was relatively thick and heavy. build circuits from fabrics, Arduino, illuminance From Table 1, displays the variations of weight sensor, motor, and pulley. Initial Prototype was and thickness among FO> RM> NB> OD. conducted on the simple apparatus shown schematically in Figure 7.

Figure 7. Diagram of the Prototype

Table 1. Characteristics of the Fabric Samples Fabric Weight Nominal Type Composite rate Weaves name (g/㎡) thickness (㎜) Fusible Interlining PET / Cotton FO plain 148.3 0.44 +Organdy ( 50% / 50%) OD Organdy PET(100%) plain 39.6 0.11 NB Nobang Silk (100%) satin 66 0.17 RM Ramie Linen (100%) plain 135.7 0.26

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2. Stiffness the higher the stress during extension, the more the fabric can be stretched. The measured results and the calculated Table 4, the measured stress of FO shows the stiffness are given in Table 2. The results highest stress values in the tensile properties. indicated that the fabrics chosen for the Except for FO, tensile properties resulted in experiment had different degrees of the similar values both in the warp and in the weft stiffness. The values of stiffness: FO> RM> NB> directions. This is because the FO is not well OD. Taking a closer look, the values showed stretched due to the characteristic of the fusible different results depending on the direction of interlining. The fact that the warp had a higher the fabric samples. FO and RM had the largest value than the weft in tensile strength may values in the warp direction, while OD and NB suggests the possibility of the string being cut had the largest values in the weft direction. off if it is too stiff. When dividing outer and inner sides, FO using an outer side for organdy had the larger values 2) Rate Equation of the Recovery Rate while the rest had larger values for outer inner side. Future research is needed to measure both The "Basic pattern" and "Diamond Pattern" fold fabrics after removing the adhesive to observe tests were developed to measure the change in variations in stiffness. folding recovery properties of fabrics according to thickness and/or weight. It was designed 3. Tensile Properties primarily for testing four types of stiffness in fabrics and was expected to give clear 1) Tensile Properties of the Fabric Samples distinctions among various fabrics. The complete folding behavior is given by two cycles, the Fabric behavior during stretching depends on percentage of fold recovery at a specified time the direction of the warp, weft and bias. In addition, (usually 20 min) and the recovery rate.

Table 2. Stiffness of the Fabric Samples Drape Stiffness (㎝) Flex Stiffness (mg∙㎝) Type of Surface Fabrics Warp Weft Bias Warp Weft Bias Outer 9.73 9.08 4.58 13639.86 11083.61 1420.09 (Organdy) FO Inner 9.18 8.38 4.43 11454.06 8711.55 1284.93 (Interlining) Outer 2.90 3.40 3.15 96.58 155.64 123.77 OD Inner 2.70 3.25 2.75 77.94 135.94 82.36 Outer 3.15 4.38 2.90 206.29 552.69 160.97 NB Inner 2.78 3.83 2.75 141.04 369.35 137.26 Outer 5.83 4.95 3.68 2682.05 1645.87 673.52 RM Inner 5.48 4.05 3.60 2227.06 901.46 633.12

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Table 3. Tensile Properties of the Fabric Samples

Type of Stress Point Warp Weft Bias Fabrics

Stress at 3mm, gf 24.6200 15.5170 2.1770

FO Stress at 4.5mm, gf 30.9220 21.5950 2.6380

peak energy, kgf ․ m 0.8873 0.0552 0.0079 Stress at 3mm, gf 7.5180 7.9350 0.0300

OD Stress at 4.5mm, gf 11.0300 11.4200 0.0800

peak energy, kgf ․ m 0.0263 0.0288 0.0001 Stress at 3mm, gf 5.3150 6.9500 0.0111

NB Stress at 4.5mm, gf 10.0230 10.1120 0.0100

peak energy, kgf ․ m 0.0195 0.0244 0.0000

Stress at 3mm, gf 5.6478 2.4278 0.1089

RM Stress at 4.5mm, gf 10.2460 3.7800 0.0000 peak energy, kgf ․ m 0.0405 0.0154 0.0006 Length=200.0 ㎜

Recovery Rate from the 1st Elongation Deformation can be calculated as:

 RR1 =   (3) ′

Also, Recovery Rate from the 2nd Elongation Deformation from the same calculation, A2 and Figure 8. Rate Equation of the Recovery A2’, is named. It can be calculated as:

A1 in Figure 8 shows the work during the first  RR2 =   (4) extensional deformation. The area, A1, under the ′ deformation curve represents the resistance of the fold specimen to the extensional The Rate of Elongation Energy can be deformation. The recovery work, A1’, is the calculated as: measure of the recovery of folded fabric. The recovery rate, A1 and A1’, of the first part  RR21 =    (5) of the Figure 8, during unfolding and folding  against the force, is calculated. It can be calculated as:

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Table 4. Recovery Rate of the Folding Pattern Specimen 1st Elongation Type of Folding type RR1 RR2 RR21 deformation @ fabric peak FO 0.89 1.00 0.89 85.61 Basic OD 1.02 1.01 1.09 43.39 Pattern NB 0.97 0.94 1.01 59.98 RM 0.79 1.03 0.69 84.11 FO 0.77 0.90 0.92 82.60 Diamond OD 0.90 1.09 0.93 58.50 Pattern NB 0.97 0.94 1.01 70.50 RM 0.84 0.94 0.91 73.60 "Pleat Pattern" Length=230.0 ㎜ / "Diamond Pattern" Length=200.0 ㎜

Table 5. Correlation in the "Basic Pattern" Specimen Fabric Warp mean of the flex stiffness 1st Elongation deformation @ peak Name (mg∙㎝) FO 85.61 12546.96 OD 43.39 87.26 NB 59.98 173.66 RM 84.11 2454.56 correlation coefficient 0.70

Table 6. Correlation in the "Diamond Pattern" Specimen Fabric 1st Elongation deformation Warp and bias mean of the flex Name @ peak stiffness(mg∙㎝) FO 82.6 6949.73 OD 58.5 95.16 NB 70.5 161.39 RM 73.6 1553.94 correlation coefficient 0.83

Table 4 shows the behavior of each specimen observe that NB had identical recovery rate in when the pleats and "Diamond Pattern" were both first and second elongation deformations, inserted. OD had the best recovery rate. which has a more uniformed structure. This was However, it showed that the pleats pattern probably due to silk’s weaker recovery rate. OD obtained the best recovery rate for the first is comprised of lightweight thermoplastic elongation deformation while the "Diamond polyester filament yarns. But it was determined Pattern" obtained the best recovery rate for the that the elongation had a significant influence second elongation deformation. It is easy to when the length of the sample folding pattern

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Figure 9. The Finished Prototype of the Shape–folding Dress extended as the specimen of folding pattern characteristics of the pleat patterns specimen. increased or decreased. The correlation coefficient ranged from 0.70 to 0.83 according to the pattern types. 4. Correlation of the Fold Specimen with Flex Stiffness of Fabrics 5. Prototype

Table 5 shows elongation deformation The sensing part of the "Shape-folding" dress characteristics of fold specimens (Basic Pattern), captures ambient light levels with illuminance and the mean values of flex stiffness of fabric sensor and executes a time-based concatenation specimens. Table 6 shows elongation using an Arduino. The illuminance sensor used deformation characteristics of fold specimens in conjunction with an Arduino uno 7.5V (Diamond Pattern), and the mean values of flex microprocessor integrated into a custom board stiffness of fabric specimens. which operates the controllers and output. It has It should be noted that the flex stiffness built-in electronic circuits made entirely out of shows a good correlation with the deformation Arduino data. In addition, the flexible fabric

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surface should be built with embedded actuators the stiffness depending on the direction of the indicating where the pulley is located. Proper fabric samples. FO and RM had the largest selection of the location of the pulley is very value in the warp direction, while OD and NB important; since problems of thread tangling may had the largest value in the weft direction. This occur during the winding or releasing cycle. The may be due to the processing with the adhesive process of "Shape-folding" dress can be seen or glue that caused higher stiffness of the warp in depicted in Figure 9. However, from the for FO and RM. aesthetic or practical points of view, further 3. Since FO is a fused specimen of organdy study on the application of the additional motors and interlining fabrics, the outer and inner sides of smaller sizes to fit within the prototype dress behave differently. Outer side of the FO shows would be necessary. the highest stiffness value. 4. Except for FO, tensile properties resulted in similar values both in the warp and in the weft Ⅴ. Conclusion directions. 5. OD had the best recovery rate. This was In this study, the aim was to combine measured from the second elongation scientific applications and principles as well as deformation of the "Diamond Pattern." However, artistic creativity. In other words, it explores both NB had identical recovery rate in both first and the characteristics of the fabrics using analytical second elongation deformations, which is a methods and engineering and scientific more stable and uniform structure. 6. The flex stiffness had a correlation with the know-how that reacts to the wearer's environment. Furthermore, it could be proposed direction of pleat pattern specimen in the warp direction. The "Diamond Pattern" specimen had as a visual aid that expresses the wearer's significant correlation with the warp and bias creativity to develop a "Shape-folding" dress. The experiment of this study was to directions. Thus, folding composition should consider the directions of the fabric according investigate the basic characteristics and physical to the folding technique. properties of the fabrics and the behavioral correlations and changes during fold contraction Based on the experiment’s results among fabric samples’ physical properties silk was and recovery process in order to produce the chosen for the prototype. prototype. Usually the prototype dress stays long, but it is designed to become shorter when the The results were as follows: wearer's surroundings becomes dark. When the 1. According to the weight, thickness, and stiffness, the values, ranked in descending, illuminance sensor cannot detect light, the pulley pulls the hemline in the front up to the lower were: FO> RM> NB> OD. The results indicated thigh. As a means of visual communications or that all the fabrics, FO used in garment for special function and RM, NB and OD used in a expression of the wearer's mood, activation of the pulley may be adjusted according to the Hanbok, could be characterized as stiff as they wearer’s discretion. were thicker and heavier. 2. The fabric samples had different degrees of The advantage of the "Shape-folding" dress

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compared to a traditional static dress is wearable technologies in creating high value transforming shape occurs immediately by fashion design. means of visual communication. The developed prototype can be used for consumer entertainment in stage performances. The wearer References can present fantasies and engage in stage performances because the shape can be Buri, H., & Weinand, Y. (2008). ORIGAMI-Folded changed, read, and sent to each garment plate structures, architecture. Proceedings of according to the environment. 10th World Conference on Timber Engineering, One of the disadvantages of the experiment Miyazaki, Japan. was the limited use of the fabric samples. In Buechley, L., & Eisenberg, M. (2009). Fabric future experiments, a variety of fabrics should PCBs, electronic sequins, and socket buttons: be measured. The other was suitable. The Techniques for e-textile craft. Personal actuators, wire and pulley, should be placed Ubiquitous Comput., 13(2), 133-150. along the surface of the flexible fabric. If the Choi, K., Kim, J., & Song, N. (2012). A study pulley is not located at the center of gravity, it on the analysis of 3D scanning of knit would be entangled or remain unconnected, stitches and modeling system-jersey, rib, and opposed to the intention. Thus, a specific layout cable stitches. Journal of Fashion Business, should be designed for the pulley to make it 16(3), 125-135. suitable for hanging garments. Hallnäs, L., & Redström, J. (2006). Interaction As further studies indicate, more design: Foundations, Experiments. Borås, considerations should be given to the selection Sweden: The Interactive Institute Publishing, of proper motors that should be smaller in size Ltd. for aesthetic and practical reasons. There should Holdaway, H. (1960). Behavior of sample also be an additional process for building a pleated strips of wool fabric in an smaller and lighter pulley that is compatible to extensometer part II: Modifications due to wearable garments. A variety of silk fabrics pleat curvature and other second order ought to be experimented using different folding effects. Textile Research Journal, 30(6), techniques. In order to meet the practical needs 456-461. of people who will wear such clothing, Hu, J. (2004). Structure and mechanics of systematic studies on the factors such as fabric woven fabrics. Cambridge UK: Woodhead folding speed, balance during the lifting or Publishing, Ltd. releasing cycles, appearance, and comfort would Jackson, P. (2011). Folding techniques for also be needed. designers: From sheet to form. NY: Laurence The significance of this study will provide King Publishing, Ltd. valuable theoretical and practical contributions to Kang, M., & Kwon, Y. (2010). Improvement of the high fashion field/industry, fashion wrinkle recovery and functional properties in education, and applied research in wearable linen fabrics. Journal of the Korean Society of electronics by developing practical concept Clothing and Textiles, 34(11), 1859-1869. development and physical prototyping of Katz, H. (1966). Wrinkling behavior of wool

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